You’ll visit not only her famous residence, Casa Azul, but also explore a multitude of other significant places. These spots were essential in the formation of her identity and connection to her Mexican heritage. If this is your first time visiting Mexico City, this tour is an excellent method of discovery. Many of her famous locations are located in the heart of neighbourhoods with a variety of other popular attractions.

Tour Itinerary

This tour is divided up into four different sections, each one focusing on a particular area of Mexico City. While it might not be the most chronological journey, it allows you to explore different neighbourhoods around Mexico city cohesively. While a chronological life tour would be better in terms of following her journey, it requires bouncing all over the city. Especially for those who are on a tight schedule, that’s not the best use of your time.

The three different neighbourhoods are the Coyoacán, Historic City Centre, and Xochimilco’t. You can easily add these spots to your existing itinerary. I would advise to only tackle one neighbourhood at a time. Don’t try to fit it all in one go. The last section is a list of museums. These museums will help you get a deeper understanding of Mexican culture, insights about Frida, and art in Mexico. Since these places were not locations Frida really visited they are not part of the essential tour. Although they do add a lot of contextual information if you’re interested in that kind of thing.

Below is a map of the entire walking tour. I have broken up the neighbourhoods into separate maps for easy-to-follow directions.

Frida Kahlo in Coyoacan

1. Tour Itinerary
2. Frida Kahlo Museum
3. Coyoacan Market
4. The Casa de Cortes, Casa Municipal
5. Cantina La Guadalupana
6. Parroquia San Juan Bautista
7. Frida Kahlo Park
8. La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura
9. Jardín Centenario
10. Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
11. Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera's House-Studio
12. Former College of San Ildefonso
13. Biblioteca Pública 
14. Secretaría De Educación Pública
15. Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral
16. The Palacio Nacional
17. Avenue 5 de Mayo
18. Garibaldi Square
19. Palacio de Bellas Artes
20. Alameda Central
21. Museo Mural Diego Rivera
22. La Ciudadela
23. Xochimilco Canals
24. Museo Dolores Olmedo
25. Templo Mayor Museum
26. Museum of Modern Art
27. Museo Nacional de Antropología
28. Mexican Art Gallery | GAM
29. Museo Franz Mayer
30. Museo Anahuacalli

Frida Kahlo Museum

La Casa Azul or “the blue house“, located on Londres Street in Coyoacán once belonged to Frida’s father, Guillermo Kahlo. It was here where she was born. She grew up inside these walls. It was the place where she suffered from illness but also flourished as an artist. Eventually, Frida bought the house from her parents and lived with her husband, Diego. They got divorced and remarried all within these blue walls. And ultimately, it was the place where she would pass away. It was her sanctuary but also her cage. She spent more years inside these walls than perhaps anywhere else in the world. As such, it is one of the most intimate looks into her life that you can experience.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art. They collected pre-Hispanic artifacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more which is still on display. You feel a deep connection with Frida by literally walking in her footsteps. You get to see her inner sanctum and looking at the precious treasures she collected, which represented her passions, her wishes and her dreams. To learn more about the Casa Azul take my self guided tour!

Coyoacan Market

South of Frida’s house is the Coyoacán Market. This market has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. Both Frida and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul. Frida loved to cook, and there are countless recipe books out there that details her favourite recipes. At one time, she was quoted as saying,

“We could not have a child, and I cried inconsolably, but I distracted myself by cooking, dusting the house, sometimes by painting…”

Frida’s Shopping List

Frida would come to these brightly coloured corners of the marketplace to shop for her favourite ingredients, chat with her local shopkeepers and wander around to get inspired for her next creation. This marketplace feels a little more laid back and less modern than some of the ones in the inner city. Exploring it feels like more of an authentic experience to the one Frida would have had herself. Make sure you ask about the mole paste they sell here. Mole was one of Frida’s favourite things to cook and eat, and there are countless varieties here you can buy and taste! See which one if your favourite and bring some of the powdered version home with you to make in your own kitchen!

The Casa de Cortes, Casa Municipal

The Casa de Cortes, on the north side, of the Plaza Hidalgo was where the seat of government was held for many years. And it was here that Frida and Diego were married. Frida’s parents were not a fan of Diego…to say the least. Diego had already been married twice, and his reputation as an unfaithful husband wasn’t a big secret around town. He was also 21 years older than 22-year-old Frida. Her parents protested and begged Diego not to marry her, but the love birds could not be swayed. Her parents referred to the union as a “marriage between an elephant and a dove” since Diego was over 300 pounds, and due to her illnesses, Frida was only a petite 98 pounds.

Frida and Diego’s Marriage

The two were married on August 21st, 1929. Their marriage in city hall was presided by the mayor of Coyaocan, and their witnesses were a hairdresser and homeopathic doctor. Frida wore only a long skirt and simple blouse with a rebozo (shawl) wrapped around her shoulder. She would often wear these in the same way that female revolutionaries wore them during the 1910 revolution when women used the scarves to smuggle guns past government checkpoints. Diego was dressed in a plain grey suit, accessorized with a Stetson hat and a Colt revolver. After their short ceremony, they retreated to their good friend Tina Modotti’s house where the raucous reception was held.

It was recorded that after the wedding, during their reception, Diego took the colt revolver and shot it off aimlessly in a drunken stupor. Frida was none too pleased at this childish behaviour, and it would be the first signs of trouble in paradise for the couple.

Cantina La Guadalupana

Just down the street from the Casa Municipal, you’ll find Frida’s old watering hole, Cantina La Guadalupana. Although the original cantina is now closed, you can still see the old signage out front marking the spot. The building is much unchanged from the days when you’d catch a glimpse of Frida’s richly coloured skirts in the window. The Cantina La Guadalupana was the couple’s bar of choice for drinking tequila under the dim lights and surrounded by bullfighting decor. Frida was quite the prolific drinker for her small size and other than tequila, she would love to drink pulque. Pulque is made from the fermented sap of the maguey plant, native to Mexico. It was a beverage which the ancients Aztecs invented and drinking it made her feel closer to those old gods.

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Parroquia San Juan Bautista

Across the park, stands the imposing shadow of the baroque church that Frida Kahlo attended while she was growing up, Parroquia San Juan Bautista. It is also called the Iglesia de Coyoacán as the church has become the central place of worship in Coyoacán. It was built between 1520 and 1552 and run by an old Dominican order. Over the years the church has changed its appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. But surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations.

The interior, however, is covered in baroque gilded decorations, and mindblowing ceiling frescos of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Frida would have come here as a child and prayed with her parents. You can only imagine how such a richly artistic place would have inspired young Frida’s mind.

Frida Kahlo Park

Seeing as the city is the place of her birth, it seems only right that Frida would have a park dedicated after her. Frida loved the outdoor, and although not everyone can afford to go into the Casa Azul’s garden daily, they can wake their way to Frida Kahlo Park to celebrate the great artistic legacy…or at the very least, walk their dog in a lovely setting. In the centre of the park, you’ll find two large, bronze sculptures of Frida and Diego. Frida is dressed in her classic Tehuana outfit, gazing over at Diego. This park has a very structured layout, the bushes around it perfectly pruned into geometric shapes, slightly resembling Aztec pyramids popping out in the background.

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La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura

Located on the east end of Coyoacán, is La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura. Frida began teaching here in 1942. She hoped that its close proximity to her house would mean she could easily commute to and from and continue to educate Mexico City’s artistic youth. She loved her students and teaching, but her leg was bothering her more and more and eventually, she couldn’t leave the house. Luckily, the students loved her as well, and the dedicated pupils would come to the Casa Azul, where Frida could continue to instruct them. She would always inspire her students to look to Mexican culture for inspiration, instead of being influenced by European trends. While Frida might not have taught here for a long time, the school grounds are a beautiful and inspiring place to explore.

Jardín Centenario

The Jardin del Centenario is the central greenspace in Coyoacan. It is marked by a gorgeous double archway which they call the ‘Arcadas Atrial’ or the ‘Arcos del Jardín del Centenario‘. The gardens were once part of the entrance to the old 16th century Parish Church of San Juan Bautista built during the colonial period. Stone pieces from the original building were woven onto either side of the archway. Take a closer look to see how decorative motifs from that period depict both European and indigenous influence.

This beautiful garden is also where you’ll find a fountain which contains a bronze sculpture of two coyotes, which refer to the borough’s name. The name Coyoacán comes from the Nahuatland word meaning “place of coyotes.” Today you’ll see the symbol of the coyote everywhere you look; on park benches, on street corners and even in flower gardens! On either side of the garden are lush Indian laurel trees which spread out to form a canopy over the walkway below.

Frida in the Park

This delightful park is where a place Frida would frequently come to stroll or celebrate during her life in Coyoacan. It was here where the city would hold parades, festivals and fairs. Diego Rivera’s daughters have written extensively about their time living with Diego and Frida in Coyoacán. They lived with them inside the Casa Azul for two years while they completed college. The Jardín CentenarioIn is featured heavily in their accounts as Frida loved to come there to ride carnival rides and march in parades on any day of festivity and would always bring Diego’s daughters with her. Although Frida could never have children herself, she mothered so many young people along the way, acting as a parental figure any time she got the chance.

Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

The Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles is a cultural centre, free to enter and explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property. Just inside the entrance to the Casa is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple. The house has existed here since 1780, occupied by a variety of different families. It’s no stretch to imagine that the previous owners would have welcomed the famous couple into their garden for a visit or a dinner party from time to time.

Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s House-Studio

Farther west, just outside of Coyoacán in the neighbouring district of San Angel is Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s House-Studio. Frida and Diego had this building custom designed by their friend Juan O’Gorman. The studio was intended to be two separate buildings, connected by a bridge. A way of physically showing the differences between these two artists, who despite all odds, still manage to come together. Diego’s studio is painted off-white and rust-red. Simple, natural colours. Frida’s studio, on the other hand, is painted the same ethereal cobalt blue as her home in Coyoacán. Diego’s house features thin windows along the top of the walls. Frida’s features almost floor to ceiling windows, giving the interior space that indoor/outdoor feeling. The house is separated from the street by a perimeter fence which instead of being made from wood or wrought-iron, is made from stacking rows of tall cacti along the roadside.

Studio-House

The couple lived here from 1934 to 1939. In 1939, they got divorced, and Frida moved home to Casa Azul, leaving Diego to live full time, alone in the studio-house. Even after getting back together, only 9-months later, Frida and Diego kept the studio to use as more workspace. Today the interior of the studio features a lot of Diego Rivera’s work and decor, especially his collection of papier-mâché figures.

The Frida side of the house is pretty bare since most of her treasures moved over to the Casa Azul, but it is still interesting to view the architectural designs from inside. The best part of her studio to explore is her bathroom. It was in here that she was inspired to paint ‘What the Water Gave Me’ while staring down at her feet in the bathtub in one of her fits of depression. The very tub which is portrayed in the painting can be still seen today inside the studio. Frida also painted such iconic images as ‘The eye of the eye‘ and ‘The deceased Dimas’ while she lived at the studio-house.

Former College of San Ildefonso

We begin this part of the tour at the Former College of San Ildefonso. It seems very fitting to start the journey here since it was a place of so many firsts for Frida. This was where Frida first went to college in 1922. There she met some of her best friends, her first boyfriend and, most importantly, first met the love of her life; Diego Rivera. Frida’s father had the utmost confidence in his daughter.

Even after she had spent a good deal of her adolescence homeschooled, due to her polio, he still thought she was a genius. Her father decided to send her to this former Jesuit college, at much expense to the family. She was one of only 35 girls, out of 2000 students who went to the school. But she had always gotten along with boys almost more than she did with girls, so she flourished there. Frida would even be seen wearing men’s clothes to the college from time to time and embraced her more masculine side.

The Creation

At the same time, Frida was at school here, Diego Rivera has been commissioned to paint an enormous mural on the lecture room walls. The painting, called ‘The Creation‘ was Rivera’s first gigantic mural of this kind. It was commissioned by the Mexican government to educate the masses of people who couldn’t read but wanted to learn about history. The mural covers more than a thousand square feet and portrays mythological and religious motifs.

It was here when painting the mural that Frida first laid eyes on Diego. She would sneak in to watch him paint his nude models anytime she could. Diego, although married to Lupe Marin at the time, would frequently be found by Frida in the midst of making love to one of his models. She took it upon herself to even warn the artists if she saw his wife coming. Frida would mock and tease him as he worked, but he saw her as a charming little pest. She would go on and on about him to her friends, and despite their age difference, and would proclaim that one day, she would be his wife and have a child by him. Although the latter would never come to pass, who knew how right she would be about the rest.

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Biblioteca Pública 

Down the street from her college, we find the Biblioteca Pública where Frida would come to study. She would come here to meet up with her schoolmates the ‘Los Cachuchas‘. It was here they would discuss at length the politics of the day and plan their communist rallies. But the library was not just a place of learning for Frida. The library was also where she would spend hours falling in love with her first boyfriend, Alex Gómez Arias. In addition to Alex, she also met a gorgeous female librarian and had her first affair with a woman amongst these books. This relationship caused quite the scandal in the community but was her first foray into exploring her bisexuality.

Secretaría De Educación Pública

Just to the north of the school, is the spot of another one of Diego Rivera’s masterpieces. There are 235 panels in the Secretaría de Educación Pública featuring Diego’s favourite themes of blue-collar workers, and the glorification of all things Mexican. It was here while painting these murals in 1928 that Frida Kahlo would come to see Rivera once more. After her injury from the bus accident, she needed to find a way of making money for her family and art was always something which had interested her.

But Frida didn’t know if her artwork was skilled enough to become an accomplished artist. So she went to ask the one man she admired above all others and whom she knew would tell her the truth. She marched right up to him, her work under her arms, and asked him for an honest critique. He was flabbergasted at her brash attitude and charmed by her confidence. It looks him some time to recognize her as the little pest from years before, but it was here that perhaps Diego first fell in love with Frida.

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Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral

Frida’s mother was a fiercely religious woman. The Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral was right beside where Frida would walk to school every day and as such a part of her daily life. Even though many of Frida’s paintings contain a wide variety of indigenous imagery, she was raised in a Catholic household. Elements of religious iconography can be seen in her pictures, especially in her studies of ex-votos. This church is a beautiful place to explore and discover different references you might compare to some of Frida’s famous portraits. The church itself was built after the Spanish conquest of the Aztec Empire.

The Spaniards decided to build their first church on the site of the Templo Mayor of the Aztec in the city of Tenochtitlan. Stones from the destroyed temple of the Aztecs were used to create the church. And although we now look upon the destruction of that ancient temple as something to morn, it is incredible to stare up at this church and see stones stuck throughout from over 1000 years ago. The construction of the Cathedral began in 1573 and took until 1813 to complete! The enormous cathedral is over 350 feet long and 200 feet wide. This makes it Latin America’s largest and oldest temple.

The Palacio Nacional

The Palacio Nacional or National Palace is an enormous building which stretches out across the Zocalo. While some of the Palace is still used for governmental purposes, the rest of the building is open to the public and filled with incredible gardens, murals, fountains and works of art. But the most meaningful Frida related piece in the palace is the mural by Diego Rivera entitled, ‘The History of Mexico’.

The mural features the history of Mexico from pre-Columbian ancient times to the 1930s. Rivera painted the mural between 1929 and 1935. Key events in the mural feature stories like the Spanish conquest, the colonial period, the Independence movement, and the 1910 Revolution. The right side of the mural is a chronological study of the indigenous Aztecs before colonization.

The left side of the painting is less chronological, featuring smaller groups of stories about Mexico’s Independence. Along the bottom of the mural on the left is the portrait of Frida Kahlo, her iconic monobrow making her easily distinguishable from the others. She looks over a young boys shoulder at his book and is seen wearing a necklace with the communist star. In front of her, dressed in a red, is Cristina, Frida’s sister, holding open a copy of the Communist Manifesto. Years later, Diego would have an affair with Cristina, so seeing the two women here together, years before these dramatic events would unfold feels slightly foreboding.

Avenue 5 de Mayo

Walk along Avenue 5 de Mayo, towards our next destination. While the pedestrian street Avenue Francisco Madero is more popular, I always find it’d packed with tourists and people hawking flyers. In addition to this, the stores are all American brands which don’t feel as authentic to Mexico City. Walking along the street, you’ll see that many of these shops are incredibly old.

There are dozens of stores along the way that Frida herself might have popped her head in while she worked in the city. During her adolescence, she would come into the historic centre to work both in her father’s studio or at other artists’ workshops. Frida worked as an artist apprentice in the city, where she had her first affair with a married man. All of this before the age of 18. These streets filled her life with passion, and that can be seen in her escapades.

Garibaldi Square

Plaza Garibaldi is known as the home of mariachi music. Throughout the day, you’ll find mariachi bands playing all over the square. Frida herself loved coming here. She would bring her friends and family here anytime there was a celebration or holiday. She adored dancing to the music and often took part singing songs with the band members.

NOTE: Due to it’s proximity to the dangerous neighbourhood of Tepito, this area should be visited with caution, during the daylight hours. In recent years the city has taken many precautions to help with the safety concerns including increased police presence and the creation of the Bellas Artes-Garibaldi Tourism Corridor. This corridor has improved street lighting as well as the addition of beautiful gardens and sidewalks in the neighbouring streets to help improve the appearance of the area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Palacio de Bellas Artes

Palacio de Bellas Artes and its iconic rainbow stained glass roof are one of the most iconic images of Mexico City. The Palacio de Bellas Artes hosts events in music, dance, theatre, opera and literature and is therefore aptly named the “Cathedral of Art in Mexico”. The exterior of the building is primarily Neoclassical, but inside you’ll discover a plethora of Art Deco and Art Nouveau stylings. On the 3rd floor is Diego Rivera’s famous ‘El hombre en el cruce de caminos‘ (Man at the Crossroads).

This mural was initially painted for New York City’s Rockefeller Center in 1933 but torn down by Rockefeller when Diego refused to paint out the image of Lenin he had sneakily included. Frida’s life in New York City, following Diego around from commission to commission, was such a significant point in her life. Gazing upon this mural, albeit the second version of it, is still such a powerful connection to the couple.

Frida’s Funeral

When Frida Kahlo died, Diego arranged for her body to be laid in state at the Palacio de Bellas Artes. The government agreed, only if they would make it an entirely non-political event. Diego agreed, but unbeknownst to him, one of her students came to pay their respects and after he did, threw a huge communist flag over her casket. The government threated to have her body removed, but Diego refused to let them. He said if they tried, he would carry her dead body in his arm and sit with her on the steps of the palace. Before she died, the last words she wrote in her diary read:

“I hope the exit is joyful – and I hope never to return”.

Alameda Central

One of Rivera’s most famous paintings is the fifty-foot fresco ‘Sunday walk through Alameda Park‘. The picture is currently in the Diego Rivera mural museum, but visiting Alameda Park is an excellent opportunity to take a walk inside of the painting itself. Alameda Park was Mexico City’s first city park and was built on the grounds of an ancient Aztec marketplace. Frida is painted into the mural, wearing the traditional Tehuana dress. She is holding in her left hand the Yin-Yang symbol, which represents duality. Perhaps this is the duality of life, or maybe Diego painted it as a reference to Frida’s dual personality.

Frida is resting her hand on young Diego’s should, like a mother protecting her young one. You can imagine how many times Diego and Frida would have come to this park together, to paint and to relax. Take some time to walk around and even buy some street food snacks to enjoy under the Jacaranda trees which bloom bright purple in the springtime.

Museo Mural Diego Rivera

If you’ve visited the real Alameda Park, then it’s a treat to then see the mural of, ‘Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Central’. Look how closely Diego captured its likeness and the personalities of the people in the park. Despite being called a museum, the Museo Mural Diego Rivera is more of a housing spot for the mural, but the admission is just over a dollar. Originally the mural it was located at Hotel Del Prado. After the devastating 1985 earthquake, the hotel was condemned. Luckily, the mural was saved (in pieces) and moved the museum where it was reassembled.

La Ciudadela

Another iconic destination on the tour of Frida’s Mexico City is to the La Ciudadela marketplace. While this market only opened up in 1968, Frida would have frequented markets like this many times throughout her life in Mexico City. Places like this would have been where she came to purchase folk art, traditional textiles and elaborate, locally-made jewellery. So many of the old Tehuana patterns and dresses which Frida was known for can still be found in marketplaces like this.

Because this market is so large, you’ll have the largest selection and artisans comes from all over the country. Oaxaca is the best place to buy textiles from so if you see signage saying the products are from there you know they’ll be top-notch. If you’ve visited the Casa Azul already, you can even buy replicas of her favourite objects since many of those folk pieces are still made in the same way today. It’s like shopping in a Frida Kahlo-themed store!

Xochimilco Canals

Xochimilco is the Venice of Mexico. In the southern district of Mexico City, you’ll find is over 170 km of waterways which spread out in all different directions. Before the Spanish arrived in Mexico City, the indigenous people had created an incredible network of canals. They used these channels for transportation and to supply water throughout the country. Xochimilco means “Floating Gardens” as it refers to the Aztecs creation of the chinampas. Chinampas are artificial agricultural plots, rich in minerals, that are grown in shallow lake beds. In Xochimilco, they were used to produce thousands of flowers which looked like they were floating in the water. After the Spanish invasion, they dried up many of the canals in the centre of Mexico City to make room for modern roads. But the channels in Xochimilco remained.

Frida adored her Mexican heritage and the colourful culture which Mexico is all about. Today, Xochimilco is the best place to bask in that colour and energy. Along the canals, you can listen to mariachi bands, call over boats with mobile kitchens to serve up fresh tacos or delicious elote. Paddling along the stream are artisans selling flower crowns that resemble the flowers that Frida herself would wear in her hair. Even here, her iconic image is prevalent. To learn more about Xochimilco read my full guide here >> 

Museo Dolores Olmedo

While in Xochimilco, make sure you make a stop at the Museo Dolores Olmedo Museum. The museum is located inside the grounds of an old 16th-century residence. In 1962, Dolores Olmedo bought the house. Dolores was a fierce collector of art as well as a lover of Mexican culture. It is no surprise to learn then that she old became the largest collector of private works of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. In 1994, her collection was transformed into the museum we now find today. Luckily, Dolores lived until 2002, so she was able to see this fantastic house converted into an art gallery for the public.

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Today you can explore gardens filled with exotic Mexican plants, magical peacocks and Xoloitzcuintles. Xoloitzcuintles are a dog breed which was once only thought it exists in mythical stories of the afterlife but is actually an ancient Aztec dog. Frida herself loved these dogs and owned multiple throughout her lifetime. Inside the museum, you can find such famous Frida Kahlo’s as ‘The Broken Column’, ‘Henry Ford Hospital’, ‘Self-portrait with Changuito’, ‘A few Piquetitos‘ and ‘Mi nana Nand Me‘. If there is a particular painting, you wish to see be SURE to check online as so often her pictures are out on loan, being shown around the world.

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Templo Mayor Museum

Mexican culture and history were so essential to Frida’s life. Although Templo Mayor wasn’t discovered until after her death in 1978, Frida would have loved to have seen this relic from the past unveiled. Today, you can visit the museum and see what archaeologists discovered; the remains of the Aztec temple which the Spanish destroyed on their conquest into Mexico. The 10-foot carving of the Mexican goddess Coyolxauhqui and the over 7,000 Mexica artefacts is an entire half days worth of discovery!

Museum of Modern Art

The Museum of Modern Art in Mexico City has a stunning collection of 20th-century Mexican art. The most important being Frida Kahlo’s “The Two Fridas“. This painting is one of the most essential pieces in her oeuvre. It was painted after she divorced Diego and depicts what she saw as her two different personalities. The one on the left is dressed in traditional Tehuana costume, with a broken heart, her blood spilling out on the white of her dress. This Frida’s makeup is done, her lips painted deep red and rouge on her cheeks.

The Frida on the right is dressed in a more modern outfit. She is the independent Frida, whose heart is not broken and who can take on the world without Diego. But the two exist together, shattered and complete, heartbroken and confident. I love this painting as I feel it is so poignant to all of our lives and how we can be all things at once. Strong and weak, shy and loud, brave and scared. You don’t need to commit to one thing alone, we are complex beings, and this painting is a beautiful interpretation of that.

NOTE: Before visiting, be sure to check the website to see if the painting is on loan to another museum. Since this is the only piece of Kahlo’s inside the museum if you’re going expecting to see that and it’s on loan I know how disappointing that might be. So checking in advance is super important!

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Museo Nacional de Antropología

Throughout her life, Frida would often refer to “being the daughter and Mexico“. Her mother was unable to breastfeed young Frida, and so she was breastfed by her indigenous wetnurse. This is an image Frida has painted in a myriad of artworks. Frida always thought that by feeding on the milk of her country, she absorbed the cultural roots of her heritage from the minute she was born. Visiting the National Anthropology Museum is a window into the pre-colonial history of Mexico and those roots Frida so often referred to. The museum is also filled with many indigenous artworks as well as some of Frida and Diego’s student’s artwork they helped inspire.

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Mexican Art Gallery | GAM

Inés Amor founded the original Mexican Art Gallery in Mexico’s City in 1935. This was where Frida’s first art show in Mexico would take place. She exhibited her artworks during the inaugural International Surrealist Exhibition in 1940 with her painting ‘Las Fridas‘ (The Two Fridas, which is now at the Modern Art Gallery of Mexico). Even though there are no longer any of her pictures hanging on the walls, this is still an extraordinary place to visit. The gallery was the first to recognize the talents of Frida Kahlo professionally, and they are doing the same thing with current, contemporary Mexican artists today.

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Museo Franz Mayer

The Franz Mayer Museum is one of the most beautiful pieces of architecture in Mexico City. It also houses a wonderful personal art collection from collector Franz Mayer. Here you can find over six centuries of objects he took great care in collecting throughout his lifetime. These collections feature ceramics, furniture, silver, sculpture, paintings and engravings.

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But there is also a room, called the Marguerite Rostan gallery, which highlights traditional Mexican textiles and costumes. The collection contains clothing from 14 different ethnicities such as Amusgos, Triquis, Chinantecos, Mazatecos, Nahuas from various places across Mexico. This acquisition represents and embodies an important contribution to the knowledge of traditional Mexican costumes. Many of these dresses are so similar to the ones Frida wore throughout her life. If you’re interested in learning more about traditional Mexican fashion, this is a great place to visit.

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Museo Anahuacalli

On your way to Xochimilco, you should stop by the Museo Anahuacalli. Your ticket into the Casa Azul actually also covers your entry into this museum as well, so you kinda get a two for one! The Museo Anahuacalli was another one of Diego Rivera’s homes. Diego and Frida were both fierce nationalists who loved their home country and wanted to preserve its history. Diego and Frida dreamed of opening their own museum dedicated to these objects. Sadly, in their lifetime, this dream never came to fruition. But after Diego’s death, his daughter took up the project and created what is now the Museo Anahuacalli. Architect, Juan O’Gorman who designed their studio, also designed this house as well.

The exterior of the house was made using black volcanic stone, taken from an old volcano in Mexico and the texture is something truly unique. There are over 50,000 pre-Hispanic pieces inside the museum. Some of these Diego would collect while he and Frida would travel to ancient Aztec pyramids outside of Mexico City. Each one of them was a piece of Mexico’s heritage, a heritage that inspired the work of Frida Kahlo and I know she would be proud to have helped in the creation of this museum which stands today.

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If you’ve made it all the way through this post, I commend you! There is so much in Mexico City to see in the footsteps of Frida Kahlo. You can easily adapt this tour to your personal interests or locations you’re already planning on visiting. Frida is one of the most exciting artists I’ve ever studied, and I loved writing and researching this tour, so I hope you have as much fun following it as I did in creating it!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Guide to Following the Colorful Life of Frida Kahlo in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

I asked the locals, trying to get their honest opinion. I was surprised to hear how positively even the locals, not just the tourists, spoke about it! With so many resounding responses we decided to make our way down to Xochimilco. To see what all the fuss was about. And let me just say right off the bat, it was my favourite thing we did while in Mexico City! And I would implore everyone to go and see it for themselves.

Guide to Xochimilco

1. History
2. Access
   • Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas
   • Bus to Xochimilco
   • Group Tours
3. The Trajineras
4. How Much does a Trajinera Cost?
   • Groups and Collectivos
5. Food
6. La Isla de Las Muñecas
7. Entertainment along the Canal
8. Artisans & Merchant Boats
9. Bathrooms?
10. Other Sights along the way
    • Our Experience

History

Xochimilco is the Venice of Mexico. It’s an enormous network of canals which spread across this southern district of Mexico City. There are over 170 km of canals which spread out in all different directions. Before the Spanish arrived in Mexico City, the indigenous people of Mexico had created an incredible network of canals. They used these both as a means of transport and as a way to ensure there was a constant supply of water throughout the country.

Xochimilco means “Floating Gardens” as the Aztecs filled the land with thousands of flowers and vegetation. These fields were called chinampas and were artificial agricultural plots rich in minerals. After the Spanish invasion, they dried up many of the canals in the centre of Mexico City in order to make room for modern roads. But the canals in Xochimilco remained. Today, Xochimilco is UNESCO World Heritage Site as it preserves this Aztec technology.

Access

To access Xochimilco my recommendation would be to take an Uber or find a local guide. Local guides can be both your driver as well as a local ‘fixer’ along the way. If you simply want to get an Uber there are plenty of drivers always on the road to get you there and back. The trip takes about 45 minutes depending on where you’re staying in the city. But there can be heavy traffic at peak times of day which will increase the time and cost. A one-way ride with Uber costs around $10-$15 USD but if there is heavier traffic it could be as much as $25. That’s still very cheap for a 45-minute ride but just something to keep in mind.

Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas

Be sure to arrive at the ‘Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas‘. There are multiple embarcaderos, or ‘piers’, which service the canals. But the Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas is the official pier to catch your boat and where you’ll find the most honest pricing. It’s also where you’ll find food, shopping and restrooms. If you’re taking an Uber to the pier you might find that along the way, people on bikes will stop your Uber along the way. They’ll tell you that the pier is closed and you need to access the canals through an alternative embarcadero. This is completely untrue and a scam to get you to access their alternative dock.

We asked a local if they’ve ever taken the route the bikers lead them on just to test out the scam. He said he had and was brought to a less than savoury-looking entrance. There he found only a few meagre boats which had clearly seen better days. He passed on their offer for a ride and then headed over to the Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas. Which was, of course, not closed at all!

Bus to Xochimilco

If you want to save some money you can always take the bus. The metro is another option but the bus requires only one mode of transportation. Whereas the metro requires a few transfers. Take the bus number 47-A-XAlameda Oriente towards Xochimilco / Bosque de Nativitas. It takes about an hour depending on traffic and costs 30 pesos (about $2).

Group Tours

You can also access Xochilmilco with a group tour. These are often combined with trips to the Frida Khalo Museum or the Pyramids of Teotihuacan. If you really want a huge, group party type of atmosphere then this is the best way to get it. Personally, I find these tours a little pressed for time, often rushing you around from place and to place. I like to take things at my own pace so we chose to do this on our own. But if you’re short on time and want to see all these destinations this is a great option.

The Trajineras

‘Trajinera’ is the name for the iconic brightly coloured boats which float up and down the canals. They have flat bottoms and float throughout the canals, pushed along by a long wooden ore. The boat is controlled by your rower, just like a gondolier. In the center of the boat is a large table and about a dozen chairs on either side. So you can have an entire group ride on the same boat! The covered roof is perfect for keeping the sun off on hot days. But if you want to sit out in the sunlight the front of the boat has ample room.

The boats are vibrantly painted to resemble the flowers which used to grow on either sides of the canals hundreds of years ago. Each boat is given a different name. Half the fun is looking at all the different unique names. You can even call ahead (if you have a local to help) to get your name painted onto a boat. This is perfect for birthdays, bachelorette parties or quinceaneras.

How Much does a Trajinera Cost?

Getting a Trajinera inexpensively isn’t something you should expect when you come to Xochimilco. This isn’t one of those super budget-friendly excursions. The maximum rate set by the city is 500 pesos per hour, per boat (not per person as some tricky boatmen might quote you). You can try and haggle your way down but unless you have a good grasp on Spanish haggling, you’ll find it pretty difficult. I generally go with the set price as it’s a great deal and well worth the price you pay. Remember to tip your boatman at the end of the trip! Most of the money you pay at the start goes to his boss and the actual driver sees little of that. So a nice tip will go a long way for them.

Two-hours is the minimum time you can book as the boat drivers need to make it worth their while. I would go for two or three hours since it takes a while for them to get the boats out of the dock and away from the most crowded areas. When we first went we only booked two-hours and I honestly wish we’d gone out for longer!

Groups and Collectivos

If you meet fellow travellers along your travels it’s always worth asking them if they’re interested in a trip out to Xochimilco and that way you can save a bit of money going in as a group. Just be warned that you need to arrive as a group, not just glom onto other tourists who are asking about pricing who are already at the docks. There is also the ‘collectivo’ boat. This larger motorized boat runs every half an hour and only costs 30 pesos each way. It only runs back and forth from one station to another so its a much shorter, less leisurely ride, but if you’re looking for a budget option, this is it!

Once you have secured your boat, you set out from the dock into the canal. Most of the boats are located near the pier and blocked in by dozens of other boats. I didn’t even think it would be possible for us to get out but they did it! Make your way through the field of trajineras into the open water. This felt a little bit like a giant version of bumper cars and was so interesting to watch our driver make his way through the pile of rainbow-coloured boats.

Food

You are allowed to bring whatever food and drinks you want with you on the Trajineras. Just a few minutes away from the main pier is the Mercado Xochimilco, a great place to grab some fresh snacks and delicious treats. There are also various food stalls located along the pier when you arrive at the Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas.

Depending on what day of the week you visit will change what’s open (the weekdays tend to have fewer stalls and sellers open than the weekends), but there’s always something to buy both on land and on the water. That’s right, there’s food available throughout the canals as you travel. Vendors with roasted corn, coconut water, tacos, cold beer and freshly made micheladas float up and down the canals. The prices are more than you’d pay in the market but you pay for the privilege of having them coming right to your boat!

La Isla de Las Muñecas

‘The Island of the Dolls‘ or ‘La Isla de Las Muñecas‘ is a famous attraction along these canals. You probably have seen it on Anthony Bourdain or Buzzfeed Unsolved. Many boatmen will say they’ll take you to the island in 2 hours but the truth is the real island is about 5 hours out from the main pier. There are various replicas of the island you’ll see along the main route but these are not the original. While I think a 5 hours journey might be a little much for most people, the farther out you go the more and more in touch you’ll get with the empty expanses of natural canals and yes, you’ll eventually come to the island of the dolls. Most people who really want to visit the island chose to hire a motorboat to bring them out to the island.

This place is infamous for being one of the most haunted places in Mexico City. Legend has it that the island’s caretaker daughter drowned in the canals after losing her favourite doll in the river. To honour the drowned girl’s spirit the father began collecting dolls and placing them all over the island. He began with a small altar surrounded with dolls and when he ran out of room began hanging the dolls all over the trees on the island. Being left out in the elements the dolls have begun to rot and take on a ghastly appearance. While the reproductions of the islands along the main canals aren’t the real thing, they are pretty interesting to see as you float along.

Entertainment along the Canal

As soon as we set off into the canals, the sound of musicians playing across the waters can immediately be heard. Mariachi bands floating on their own individual boats float down the river. As they pass you by they’ll offer to board your boat and play a song or two or really as many as you want! Songs cost about 150 pesos per number but are cheaper the more songs you want. We floated by and listened to various other boats with their mariachi bands and it sounded like so much fun that when one approached us we couldn’t refuse the offer.

We hired them for simply one song and asked our guide to choose his favourite tune to get played. It felt so special to have a group of almost 10 musicians board our boat and play just for us. In addition to the mariachi bands, you’ll also see various smaller boats with only 2 to 3 people playing the xylophones as they float down the canal. So much music fills these canals, then entire place feels like a giant party even in the middle of the week when we were told it would be a fairly calm day. One can only imagine has loud and exciting it would be on the weekend when this place is filled to the brim with people!

Artisans & Merchant Boats

As you float down the river people also come up to you on their boats selling various souvenirs and craft goods. You’ll see some selling embroidered blankets, others selling flower crowns inspired by the ancient flower fields. You’ll see wooden toys, traditional Mexican dolls and mini replicas of the Trajineras. While this might not be the cheapest place to buy souvenirs the experience of purchasing them on the water is pretty unique and makes for a great story.

Bathrooms?

We happily drank and ate as we floated down the river and the farther and farther out we got the more and more peaceful and quiet the canals became. When we were about an hour out from the docks, almost no boats remained with us. The canal was almost empty except for our boat and the occasional corn or drink seller. The lush trees contrasted perfectly against the bright blue sky. With all that eating and drinking you might be wondering, “how do you go to the bathroom?” Sounds like an odd question but it’s a very important one. Well, fear not! Many of the homes on the edges of the canal have installed their own public washrooms at the end of their lot.

The boats simply pull up and dock near the edge of the canal and you hop out. Most of these cost about 20 pesos but trust me when you need to go you’ll be more than happy to pay the money. They’re relatively clean but I would always recommend using hand sanitizer after using them since the water isn’t potable.

Other Sights along the way

Other things you’ll see along the canals are everything from florists to independent zoos where you can see some the amazing wildlife that lives in these rivers. A lot of these are a little bit of a tourist trap and while we didn’t see the need to go and visit them it was neat to pass them by.

Our Experience

Since we visited on Wednesday, the river was relatively calm and I could only imagine how busy it would’ve been in the weekend when hundreds and hundreds of people come here to celebrate and also just relax with their friends. Almost like an open-air park. We saw there were signs on the outside of houses along the canals selling everything from hot chocolates to coffee to fresh tacos and while most of these were closed, only open on weekends, it was still interesting to see how all the neighbours which face onto the canal have made a life serving the people of their community.

As we floated down the river we saw four boats all tied together having an enormous party. The music could be heard from miles as well as their laughter and jaunty singing. It looked like so much fun and we waved ‘hola’ to them as we passed by. They all waved back to us with huge smiles on their faces. Everyone in the canal in some way felt like family, and I loved that feeling of being surrounded by loving, happy people.

The Titanic

The name of our boat was ‘Titanic’ and our guide told us that this name had been requested by a Mexican comedy show which visited the canals a few months previously. They thought the name would be a funny one for the little skit they were filming there. It was indeed very funny and every other boat we passed would get a good chuckle as we floated past them.

I loved this trip so much and absolutely didn’t wanted to end! As the day has wore on, more and more people began to float the river and on our way back to the dock we past dozens of happening parties on their way out. We finished our day in Xochimilco with a meal by the river, so we could still enjoy watching the boats and people pass by. We ate at one of the small restaurants near the Embarcadero where they even moved a table to their outside patio just for us, it felt like a private room just for us!

All my hesitations and worries about visiting here couldn’t have been further from the truth of this magical place! While you might think it would be touristy, we saw very little tourists when visiting. It was mainly locals we saw enjoying themselves and spending time with family and friends. If you have any doubts about visiting I would push those aside and do everything you can to make it out here. It truly is something so unique to Mexico City and an adventure you won’t soon forget.

The post Ultimate Guide to the Fantastical Floating Gardens of Xochimilco, Mexico City [UPDATE 2022] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Tickets

To access the Porcelain Collection, you’ll need to purchase a ticket to the Zwinger Galleries. This ticket includes the Old Masters Gallery, the Mathematical and Physical Instruments museum, and the Porcelain Collection. The ticket does not include admission to Zwinger Xperience. Tickets are €14.00 for adults and €10.50 for children, students and seniors. The Gallery is open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., closed on Mondays.

History of the Porcelain Gallery

The Porcelain Collection was established in 1715 by our favourite Dresden hero, Augustus the Strong. Augustus was a collector, and his interest in porcelain exploded in the 17th century after a visit to China. The Dresden collection is the most exquisite and also the largest specialist ceramics collection in the world. There is nowhere else on earth where you can stroll through galleries of hundreds of pieces of world-class porcelain and observe the stunning baroque courtyard through the wonderfully gilded windows of the Zwinger palace.

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About the Collection

Over 20,000 porcelain pieces are housed within these walls. Augustus the Strong was obsessed with the porcelain; they even referred to his addiction as Maladie de porcelain, and often he was heard to refer to the stuff as “white gold.” Long after his death, his family and those who oversaw the gallery protected it with the same passion, which is why all these delicate pieces managed to survive the bombing of Dresden. Thanks to their protectors, these pieces were kept safe until the war ended.

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Highlights of the Collection

One of the most iconic pieces in the gallery is the Dragoon Vases. These were made famous after Augustus the Strong exchanged a regiment of dragoons for this porcelain set from the Ming and Qing Dynasties. They are classic white porcelain accented with that bright blue engravings.

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But Augustus wasn’t happy waiting for this collection to be filled from China; we wanted a porcelain factory right there in Saxony. So in 1708, Johann Friedrich Böttger and Ehrenfried Walther von Tschirnhaus helped establish the first porcelain factory in Germany, in Meissen. Meissen became one of the most sought-after kinds of porcelain in the world.

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Dresden Style

In 1850, there were over 200 decorating studios in Dresden, painting the various creations made in the porcelain factories. From these studies came a distinctive “Dresden” style of porcelain design. This was a combination of Meissen and Viennese styles. Dresden porcelain was unique was they made their pieces by pouring liquid porcelain into plaster moulds. This resulted in a thinner, hollow and lightweight final product and therefore was less costly to produce and ship. But what made the Dresden porcelain unique was the addition of lace to the figurines in 1770. Designers would add a small amount of lace around the collars or sleeves of porcelain figures. Then they started to create elaborate skirts and dresses as well.

Dresden porcelain was also replete with flowers adorning the gowns, hair and basis of these figures. The Dresden artists were famous for creating large group scenes, portraying life in court in the 18th century. In these scenes, elaborately dressed ladies danced with courtiers, and musicians played their instruments alongside them.

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Saxon Porcelain

But Saxon porcelain wasn’t merely cute court scenes; They also created traditional pieces covered in mythology or Rocco drills. The Meissen porcelain makers also loved sculpture. This was a challenge for them, breaking out of making simple vases or small porcelain figurines. These were almost life-size creations monkeys and lions, eagles and even a peacock. These are all now on display in the gallery, house in their special room dedicated to these creations.

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One of my favourite pieces in the exhibit was this HUGE gazebo scene. The enormous baroque roof, complete with cherubs peering down off the sides, is held up with these little columns, beautifully decorated with climbing vines and roses.

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Vincennes porcelain bouquet

Another one of the most interesting pieces in the gallery for me was the Vincennes porcelain bouquet. Vincennes porcelain was established in 1740 in the disused Royal Château de Vincennes, east of Paris. The group of flowers is almost ethereal in nature; not humans’ hands could be so dedicated to creating these undying pieces of life is fantastic. The bouquet includes metal stems and foliage, and the flowers stand on a bright white porcelain base decorated with the vase and two little figurine scenes on each side. One can only imagine looking after such a precious piece of porcelain.

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All in all, the Porcelain Gallery is an excellent collection and a must-see for anyone visiting Dresden. It is not only a visual stunner but also tells you a lot about the history of Dresden through Porcelain.

The post Ultimate Guide to Exploring Dresden’s Amazing Porcelain Gallery Museum first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.