Table Of Contents

1. History
2. Flowers
3. Tortillas de Arina
4. Mexican Chili Peppers
5. Moles Miguel
6. Vanilla
7. Dried Fruits & Nuts
8. Productos Regionales Yucatecos y del Sureste
9. Fruits and Vegetable Sellers
10. Piñatas
11. Lecheria
12. Sugar Skulls
13. Corn Tortillas
14. Heladería Cubano
15. Meat and Seafood
16. La Morenita de Medellín
17. La Flor de Xochimilco
18. Meche y Rafael Carnitas
19. Outside Street Food
20. La Michoacana
21. Tips for Visiting the Farmer's Market

History

The Mercado Medellín is easily identifiable by it’s red, green and yellow geometric painted exterior. Lookout on one side for a huge, decorated multicolour mural. This marketplace has stood here for over 150 years. When the market was first established, it was in the centre of an immigrant community in Mexico City. Colombians, Cubans, Brazilian, Venezuelans and even Jewish immigrants all found themselves in the middle of the city in a neighbourhood now called Roma Sur.

The immigrants would import food and goods from their home country to sell here in their new home in Mexico City. Up until the earthquake of 1985, Jewish Mexicans owned and operated the market. But after the quake, its ownership passed hands over to the Cubans, therein earning the market its nickname; “Little Havana.”

The entire marketplace is now home to over 500 different stalls. While you can have a blast just wandering around on your own, I’ve tried to highlight the key things you should see, buy and which are the best shops to visit!

Flowers

While this market can’t compete with the enormity of the Mercado Jamaica (the largest flower market in the city), the pre-made bouquets you’ll find here, beckoning you in from the street, are lovingly curated. After shopping for their food, we saw various locals come out and buy a bouquet from their favourite seller on their way home. A little something to brighten up their home for the week! Our favourite flower to see was the poinsettias for sale. Poinsettias, known as Flor de Nochebuena, are native to Mexico. In North America, the flowers are usually only seen around Christmas but here they actually grow as small trees or bushes. During the winter months, poinsettias can be spotted all over the streets and sidewalks of Mexico City.

Tortillas de Arina

One of the first stalls to visit is ‘Tortillas de Arina.‘ This tortilleria makes flour tortillas for shops all across the city. Hundreds of tortillas speed off the conveyor belt, and the smell of freshly baked bread invites you to walk up and see what’s happening behind the counter. The word tortilla comes from the Spanish word for cake “torta” and “illa” means little. So it translates, the word for tortilla translates into “little cake.” The flour tortilla is much more popular with people from Northern Mexico. The close proximity to the border markets allowed Northern Mexicans to get inferior grade wheat flour, which they could make cheaply into flour tortillas. People who have moved from the northern provinces to Mexico City come here often to get their fix of wheat tortillas. Wheat tortillas are only usually only paired with Northern Mexican dishes.

Mexican Chili Peppers

This is one of the best markets to find fresh, Mexican Chili Peppers! There are five main chillies to see (perhaps even buy to take home with you); the Ancho, the Mulato, the Pasilla, the Morita and the Guajillo. The ancho chilli is the dried version of a poblano pepper. Ancho peppers are used in mole and many other recipes. Ancho is so popular because it has a subtle flavour with a hint of sweetness. Next up is the mulato chilli, also in mole. The mulato chihlli is also derived from the poblano pepper but picked when it first ripens, making it slightly spicier.

Pasilla chili

The final ingredient in the trifecta of mole chillies is the pasilla chilli. The pasilla are dried from chilaca peppers and are the darkest in colour. They are also much thinner and much spicier! Morita chipotles are chillies made by smoking ripe jalapeno peppers. These chipotles are not as strong in terms of a smokey flavour as some other, so really with this version, you get the best of both worlds.

The final chilles to find in the market is the guajillo chilli. Guajillo’s are long, flat, but small and are one of the spiciest varieties. Small packs a punch that’s for sure! It was so fascinating getting to touch and smell these chillies. The ones we get at home are so hard and almost crispy, but these dried peppers were soft and almost leathery. So if you’re a cook and want to make any Mexican recipe, these chillies are imperative to buy from these markets. Just be sure you know the customs regulations regarding these vegetables and always declare them to be sure.

Moles Miguel

Find your way to Moles Miguel, one of the most famous mole sellers in the market. This family-owned store sells pre-made mole pastes in different varieties. I never knew there were so many! If you ask nicely, they might even let you try a few before buying. Some of the most popular varieties are black mole, named for its super dark colour. This one is made with lots of cocoa beans (making it quite bitter). This one also has a more cinnamony taste than the rest. Then there is the red mole, made with dried red chiles like pasilla, guajillo and ancho. Finally, you’ve got the mole poblano. This version, in my opinion, is the best of them all. It’s sweet (but not too sweet) and just the right amount of smoke flavour.

Vanilla

Mexico is the birthplace of vanilla, and there is really no better place to buy it. Although the authentic extract is delicious, its even better to buy the bean pods fresh from sellers like you’ll find in these marketplaces. Fresh seeds are so much more fragrant than the extract since they aren’t diluted in alcohol.

Dried Fruits & Nuts

Dried fruits, nuts and seeds can be found all over the market, stashed away inside large tubs and baskets. Walnuts, called Castile nuts in Mexico, are of enormous importance during the late summer. Walnuts are a key ingredient to make one of Mexico’s most famous dishes, “chiles en nogada.” This dish is made with spicy green poblano peppers, stuffed with chopped meat and raisins. The dish is then topped with a thick sauce made from only cheese and ground walnuts. A sprinkling of pomegranate seeds creates the colours of the Mexican flag all in one dish!

The recipe was invited in honour of the leader of the Mexican uprising against the Spanish in the 19th century. Since the recipes invention, the dish eaten to celebrate Mexico’s Independence. Ironically, nuts were brought to Mexico by the Spaniards themselves. Almonds and peanuts are also an essential ingredient in mole as they add that deep, nutty flavour to the dish. Dried fruits from Mexico are beyond fresh, soft and flavourful. They are the perfect snack to stash away in your bag for an afternoon snack.

Productos Regionales Yucatecos y del Sureste

Many of the shops in the market sell pre-made mixes and pastes. From these you can create a myriad of Mexican recipes. Productos Regionales Yucatecos y del Sureste sells them all in one place. One of the most famous recipes in Mexican cuisine is Cochinita Pibil. The key ingredient to this recipe is Achiote paste. Achiote seeds are a traditional Aztec ingredient. The achiote paste is made from steeping the seeds in oil or lard. It’s thought to be like the saffron of Mexico. It’s so popular due to its sweet, earthy and peppery flavour. Buy it here and bring home to impress your friends.

Fruits and Vegetable Sellers

There are so many stands in this marketplace that have been run by the same family for generations. The food found here is an amalgamation of both locals and imported foods. Together they create the fabric of Mexico’s culinary culture.

A popular Mexican fruit that you may never have heard of is the mamey fruit. The mamey fruit has a rough rind, but a soft, coral coloured flesh underneath. When perfectly ripe, it tastes like a cross between a sweet potato and an orange. You’ll find these on menus all over Mexico, often as part of a beverage or served atop puddings.

Another odd ingredient you’ll find here is the nopal or cactus. “A cactus, you say?” Certain parts of the cactus are indeed edible and, when appropriately cooked, are shockingly delicious! To prepare the nopal, you slice off the exterior, scrap the spine, cut into slices, and boil with some simple spices. It’s incredibly cheap but very hearty food.

One of the last ingredients you might be on the lookout for is the tomatillo. You might know the tomatillo by its North American name, “green tomato”. But the Tomatillos found here in Mexico City as far different. They are much smaller and bursting with flavour. Tomatillos are used in all sorts of dishes. You can find them in salsas, salads and even soups! Tomatillos in the market are on display with their delicate pale husk on, which is removed before eating.

Piñatas

One thing which this market had plenty of is pinata makers. You can homemade pinatas all over the market. Some of which are still in the process of being made from scratch. When pinatas were first introduced to Mexico from Spain, they were symbolic of the Catholic belief in the deadly sins. The first pinatas weren’t shaped like Hello Kitty or Superman; they were seven-pointed stars, with each point representing a mortal sin. The person being blindfolded represented humanity’s blind faith in God needed to resist these temptations. The participant was spun around 33 times, once for every year of Christ’s life. Then the stick is used to beat the sins out of the faithful, and the candy and fruit represented the rewards for keeping the faith. You can still find these original designs in the marketplace today!

One of the oldest fruits to be included in the pinata was the tejocote. These are still sold today in the market, but have been replaced for sweet candy inside the pinatas. These Aztec fruits resemble a crabapple and are both similar in taste and shape but have the most beautiful golden colour.

Lecheria

Along the back wall, you can find a huge lecheria, which is Spanish for ‘dairy’ which sells a variety of cheese produced from local farms. My favourite is Oaxaca cheese. Oaxaca cheese is made from soft, stretched-curd cheese, made with cows’ milk. It pulls apart, almost like a cheese string (for those 90s kids reading), and if often served atop meals as it melts quickly and adds that perfect salty, umami flavour. The most interesting of the cheeses was the chihuahua, which is made from a Mennonite community in Mexico. Chihuahua cheese is relatively simple, with a buttery, yet sharp taste but very popular since its gentle flavour allows it to be paired well with most dishes.

See if you can also find or try some membrillo, which is a jelly made with quince juice and honey to be served alongside cheese. Together with the salty cheese, this sweet jam is perfection.

Sugar Skulls

Dia de Los Muertos (or Day of the Dead) was an Aztec ritual that celebrated the lives of those who were deceased. Despite the Spaniards attempt to rid the country of this sacred holiday, the ceremony remained. Eventually, it was blended together with the Catholic celebration of All Saints Day on November 1st. Traditional sugar skulls are a highly respected part of the day of the Dead rituals. Sugar was brought to Mexico in the 17th century by Italian missionaries. Sugar cane was so easy to grow in Mexico, so there became an abundance of it in the country.

History of Sugar Skulls

As Mexico was converting to Catholicism, it found that their churches didn’t match up to the opulence of the ones in Europe. Mexico didn’t have enough money to import decorations or cover their churches in gold. But what they did have was sugar, which they could produce cheaply and in vast quantities. So, using clay moulds, they used sugar to create angels, crosses and more to decorate the interior of their churches. Eventually, these kinds of decorations made their way into the celebrations of Day of the Dead. Sugar skulls were created to represent the soul of the departed, and their name was written upon the forehead of the sugar skull. They were then laid on the grave or ofrenda to honour the spirit of the beloved one who had past. You can find still these sugar skulls in the marketplaces around Day of the Dead.

Corn Tortillas

Freshly made Corn Tortillas can be found inside the market. Corn Tortillas were first invented around 10,000 BC when corn was domesticated in Mexico. Corn was linked to life in Mexico. It was their primary source of carbs (which equals energy). During the Aztec empire, one of the most popular dishes was tortillas, with chilli sauce, beans and squash. Today local workers still come to tortillerias to get fresh tortillas, salsa, rice and beans, which they will bring to the worksite to enjoy for their lunch. Just like it was thousands of years ago. Some things never change…

Heladería Cubano

Towards the back of the market, stop at Heladería Cubano. The kind gentleman behind the counter serves up Cuban ice cream and milkshakes. The milkshakes are made with fresh creme, sugar, ice (made from filtered water) and your choice of fresh fruit. He also can add malt to the milkshakes, which give you that retro flavour. Such an exciting thing to find in the middle of a Mexican marketplace but not at all unwelcome. The Cuban ice cream maker is famous in the market for his natural flavours and thick creamy ice cream!

Meat and Seafood

Take a step into the fresh meat and seafood area. Definitely the most fragrant area of the market but still very exciting. People are always yelling joyfully at each other from across the room and large meat cleavers can be heard smashing into hunks of beef and pork all across the room. This is usually where there is the most action, with locals, home cooks and restaurant chefs, coming here to buy their meats for the day.

La Morenita de Medellín

One of the most popular eateries in the market is ‘Marisquería,’ also known as “La Morenita de Medellín.” This is one of the only places in landlocked Mexico City where you can reliably find incredible seafood! Hidden away inside this marketplace, you can try red snapper from Veracruz, fish covered in garlic and chilis, pulpo al ajillo (cooked octopus), the devil’s oysters (oysters cooked in butter) and Mexican paella (which came over with Spanish). Reliably a great option if you’re craving seafood!

La Flor de Xochimilco

La Flor de Xochimilco is one of the most popular eateries inside the market. They specialize in taco de barbacoa. Barbacoa actually originates from the Caribbean. Taco de barbacoa refers to slow-cooked meats, over an open fire. The meat is cooked till its super tender. Then tacos are served with diced onions, cilantro and lime juice to help cut the fatty taste of the meat. If you’ve never had a barbacoa taco, this is a must!

Meche y Rafael Carnitas

At the back corner, hidden away, if THE place for carnitas, Meche y Rafael! Unfortunately, it’s only open on Saturdays. Pork was introduced to Mexico by the Spanish in the 16th century. Carnitas is a Spanish word that means “little meats.” Carnitas are made using lean pork mean, which is sliced and marinated in seasoning for hours. The fat cut from the meat is used for frying the carnitas before they are eaten. This carnitas stand serves up with bountiful portions alongside slices of the city’s best chicharrón. Douse the tacos with plenty of salsa and pickled radishes to cut the grease; while it might not be the healthiest food, it might be the most delicious.

Outside Street Food

Around the perimeter of the marketplace, are always a few reliable street food stands, run by some of the nicest local women. If you’re looking for something delicious to try, order up the tlacoyo. Tlacoyo is made from blue corn dough and filled with beans. It’s then fried on the grill. Once cooked, they are garnished with Oaxaca or cotija cheese, nopales, salsa and chicharrón. So filling, delicious and impossibly cheap! If you’re there earlier in the morning, be sure to try their breakfast version, which was made with fried potatoes with chorizo. It’s fantastic!

La Michoacana

If you are looking to sample an agua fresca, hit up the La Michoacana. La Michoacana is actually a chain of ice cream parlours in Mexico City. And although their ice cream is never quite up to snuff, their agua frescas are reliably some of the best! Just ask anyone behind the counter if they’re made with filtered water (agua pura) to be sure it’s safe to drink. Agua frescas are more than just juice, they are these incredible beverages flavoured with uniquely Mexican flavours like tamarind, hibiscus, and horchata!

Tips for Visiting the Farmer’s Market

• Always bring cash and small change. Most marketplaces don’t take credit cards, and if you plan on haggling at all, don’t even think about using a credit card. Cash is king in the market. But big bills won’t work either. Most of these sellers won’t have a lot of change, and early in the day, you might find that don’t have change at all. I always keep a stash of coins with me at all times to ensure I have the exact amount when shopping in markets like these. Having small coins is also important for using public washrooms in places like this, as most charge 5 pesos for the bathroom.
  
• Beware of Pickpockets. Although this marketplace is much less of a target than some of the most touristy markets in other parts of town, you should always be aware of your surroundings. Keep your money in safe places, not easily accessible by someone else. For me, I keep some smaller change in my pockets and any bigger bills deep in my bag, where it would take some time to access. But honestly, just keeping your awareness of what and who is around you is the most important part of keeping safe.

• Ask before touching any food. Most of the seller won’t mind if you touch the food, in fact to buy some fruits and vegetables you need to give it a squeeze to see if it’s ripe! But some tourists touch EVERYTHING and it really bothers the sellers. I’ve seen some tourists come in and mess up their entire display without so much as moving one thing back into place. Just ask nicely if you can look or touch something and respect what the seller responds with. But honestly, just asking will win you over with them!

• Think before taking a picture. Some of the vendors inside the more touristy markets take umbrage with tourists taking photos of their stalls. The main reason for this is they don’t always want to be on camera but also, they don’t see themselves as a tourist attraction. They would prefer you to buy something instead of just taking pictures and yet walking away without contributing to any of the vendors who need money to keep their businesses running. I always look for a “no photos” sign first before taking a picture since that’s pretty clear cut. Often, I’ll even ask the vendors if it’s ok. If you’re purchased something you’re almost always ok to take a picture since the seller knows you’re not just using them as a prop, but actually care about the product.

• Travel Light. These types of markets are fairly crowded, with narrow aisles and products overflowing over the edges of the counters. This means carrying a huge backpack with you might not be the best idea. I would stick to a small bag for your shopping and a crossbody bag for your valuables.
  
• Be friendly. Locals are proud of their produce. Some of these farmers sell the very things they harvested that morning to shoppers. Giving them a smile, a hello, goodbye or good afternoon goes a long way in acclimatizing yourself into this neighbourhood market.

• If you don’t recognize something, don’t be afraid! Trying new things is what travelling is all about! The food at this market is incredibly fresh. These stands only stay open until 4 or 5 pm so the turn over is daily and nothing just gets left behind. The only thing I really avoid is water washed veggies, like salads, but anything cooked is fair game!

Learn some key Spanish phrases

When shopping in a local market like this you might not find a lot of people who speak English. To make a good impression and fit in with the locals, try to learn a few phrases. The most important phrases are the ones to do with prices so you’ll understand how much everything costs. I would recommend avoiding any haggling if you don’t speak Spanish competently since you’ll get over your head pretty fast.

Here are some of my key phrases for shopping:
good morning // Buenos días
good afternoon // buenas tardes
goodbye // adiós
how much? // Cuánto cuesta?
one, two, three // uno, dos, tres
What is this? // ¿Que es esto?
Thank you // Gracias
no, thank you // no, gracias
Can I touch? // ¿Puedo tocar?
Can I take a photo? // ¿Puedo tomar una foto?  

We first came to the market on a guided tour with Casa Jacaranda. I cannot recommend their cooking experience more so if you are interested in learning more about Mexican cuisine and Markets in Mexico check them out!

The post Guide To Exploring the Vibrant Medellin Market in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

What’s a tianguis 

A tianguis (tehYAN-gyez) comes from the old Aztec word tianquiztli, which meant the marketplaces. Markets were of the utmost importance in the Aztec culture. The Aztecs built their empire on trade, and the ritual continues to this day in Mexico.

The pink tarps which cover the entire market are actually quite important as they signify that this market is a part of a government-sanctioned program. They ensure the legitimacy of the sellers, which can trade in the tinaguis’. The government-run organization is called the “System of Markets on Wheels” (Sistema de Mercados Sobre Ruedas). It’s named as such since these same vendors have to be mobile and move their shops around the city, wherever the market is open that day.

Opening Times

The Condesa Tianguis market is only once a week, on Tuesdays, which made it even more special that I had just happened upon it. The market runs along Pachuca street from Agustín Melgar Calle south to Calle Juan Escutia. They shut this entire road down from traffic for the day, and it feels like it completely transforms the feeling of the neighbourhood. It changes from just another side street to a lively traditional shopping experience. The market opens at 10 am and closes at 5 pm.

The Condesa neighbourhood has always been one of the more upscale districts in Mexico City. Because of this higher class clientele, don’t expect to find the lowest prices here. But even when they are slightly more expensive, it’s still shockingly cheap! I do find the quality of food and produce here to be somewhat above par as well, so you definitely get more bang for your buck!

Some of the most unique things you’ll find here are sold by the older generations of indigenous women. These women grow their own fruits and vegetables on their farms outside the city. Unlike some of the other vendors who might be buying from more commercial business, they are grown by some rural farmers. The women’s smiling faces are enough to bring you right up to their stalls to take a closer look at their fantastic produce.

Produce on Sale

Unlike the supermarkets which seem to carry everything no matter the season, the fruits and vegetables available here change based on the season. The very best products to get each season is as follows:
Summer: Mangoes, Tomatoes and Tomatillos, Corn, avocados, Pitaya
Fall: Corn, Apples, Pumpkin Black sapote, Prickly pear, Passionfruit
Winter: Apples, Pumpkin, criollo avocado, Mamey, Black sapote, Jicama, Prickly pear
Spring: Mamey, Jicama, Passionfruit
Year-Round: Nopales, chillies,

Clothing and Household Goods

These markets sell more than just produce though. You’ll find anything from bras to makeup, kitchen products and more! You really never know what you going to find! It’s a one-stop-shop for locals, no need to go to the grocery store at all. I loved seeing all the different things on offer since it felt like a surprise every time you came upon a new section of the marketplace.

Flowers

The flower sellers were some of my favourite stalls. I timidly asked how much a large bouquet of sunset coloured roses was and was blown away when they asked for only 50 pesos ($3 US). Having an Airbnb, we had the space to decorate it with flowers, and so I bought it up!

When I visited earlier in the day, I was the only foreigner there! Everyone seemed very friendly, and my Spanish went a long way with impressing the locals. Later in the day, when we came back for dinner, we did see a few more foreigners. Still, overall, it really felt like a neighbourhood event with locals going about their daily business.

Walking down the aisles, you’ll be offered fresh-cut fruit samples from various sellers. While most of this time, this is to entice you to buy some whole fruit, I never found any of them to be very pushy in making me buy anything I didn’t want. It was great fun to get to try so many different fruits, some of which I’d never even heard of before. The Mamey fruit was my favourite. It was like a combination between a sweet potato and a peach.

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Street Food

One of my favourite things to eat in Mexico city is elote, but here there was something a little different, which was esquite. This dish is similar to elote, but the corn is sauteed with chilli peppers instead of being roasted on the grill. The corn ends up being a little spicer and more straightforward, as it is served without the cheese and mayonnaise. But just as delicious!

Another street food staple is the tlacoyo, fried blue corn cakes stuffed with beans and topped with cheese and nopales. In the early morning, you could really taste how fresh the masa was, most likely being ground that very morning.

Tamales vendors are on either corner outside the market, but the real food can be found in under the white tents. Inside are a dozen or so little food vendors selling tacos, gorditas, flautas and more! Large communal tables are lined with salsas and hot sauce. Grab your favourite dish from any of the vendors and take a seat to see if you can strike up a conversation with your neighbours. One of my favourite things is how inviting the locals are, especially when in a neighbourhood environment. They are so proud and are always so happy to see foreigners visiting.

For dessert, there is nothing better than a cup of fresh fruit. My favourite is the mango, served with chilli and lime. Sweet, salty and spicy! All my favourites flavours!

Fresh Nuts and Candy

If fruits don’t satisfy your sweet tooth, another of my must-buy items are fresh candies and nuts. These brightly coloured products draw your eye in immediately. The gummies are some of the softest and most flavorful I’ve ever tasted! I can not recommend them more. And they each cost only about 20 pesos for a huge bag.

Stumbling upon markets like this is one of the most lovely things about Mexico City. There is always something exciting going on, and even if you’re not looking for it, wonderful places like this just seem to reveal themselves to you!

What has been your favourite moment of happenstance on your last vacation?

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post Discover the Amazing Flavours of La Condesa’s Tianguis Market in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

But I read review after review and had to check it out for myself. And let me say, perhaps as a bit of a spoiler, I now understand why this is such a perfect experience. Casa Jacaranda offers more than just a cooking class. It’s a whole day of activities, discoveries, learning opportunities and a chance to make new friends.

Table Of Contents

1. About Casa Jacaranda
2. The Casa Jacaranda Cooking Class Experience
3. Mercado Medellín
4. Molino y Tortilleria Golilas De Amor
5. Roma Norte
6. Casa Jacaranda
7. The Menu
8. Making the Mole
9. Tamales
10. Cocktails
11. Rooftop Dinner
12. Prices:
13. Group Rates:

About Casa Jacaranda

The classes are offered Tuesday through Saturday. Beto Estúa and Jorge Fitz are the co-owners of Casa Jacaranda, and either one or both of them will join you on your culinary journey, depending on class size and availability.

Most classes are held in English, although there are some classes available in Spanish. The small class size (typically 6-8 people) means that you feel close with everyone there but have enough people to quickly cook these huge menus!

The day begins at 10 am and ends around 4:30 pm, so you really do get an entire day’s worth of entertainment out of the whole experience. The price per adult is $180 USD and children are $120 USD. While this might seem expensive, as mentioned, you get an entire day’s worth of entertainment and indulgence. Trust me on this, it’s worth every peso.

The Casa Jacaranda Cooking Class Experience

Mercado Medellín

The day began at the Mercado Medellín, in Roma Sur. The Mercado Medellín is easily identifiable by it’s red, green and yellow geometric painted exterior with stunning multicolour murals painted above. We stood at the meeting spot, just under the market’s sign, and met the other travelling cooks, two fellow Canadians and a mother-son duo from America. They were immediately so friendly and just as excited as we were! Beto arrived with his traditional shopping bags and his assistant in tow. He happily introduced himself to the group, and we collectively decided on the dishes we were set to prepare for the day.

About the Market

Before heading into the market. Beto took a moment outside to tell us all about the history of the market. This marketplace has stood here for over 150 years, although the more modern appearance is from renovations after the earthquake. When the marketplace was first established, it was in the centre of an immigrant community in Mexico City. Colombians, Cubans, Brazilian, Venezuelans and even Jewish immigrants all found themselves in the middle of the city in a neighbourhood now called Roma Sur. The immigrants would import food and goods from their home country to sell here in their new home in Mexico City. They sold both to locals who were interested in trying something new and other immigrants who wanted a taste of home.

Up until the earthquake of 1985, Jewish Mexicans owned and operated the market. But after the quake, its ownership passed hands over to the Cubans, therein earning the market its nickname; “Little Havana.” The entire space is now home to over 500 different stalls. If you were simply a regular tourist, this could be overwhelming, but Beto made sure to take us to all his favourite stalls and show us what you needed to see! Every one of them knew him by name and would wear a huge smile on their faces as we approached.

Mexican Chili Peppers

Our guide took us through the market to various sellers where we picked up ingredients for our meal. One of the most important ingredients in Mexican cuisine are chili peppers. Many of these peppers were going to be present in a few of our recipes, so it was essential to learn all about them! Some peppers have different names depending on if they are dried or fresh. In this market alone, we stopped and smelled over 15 different kinds of peppers. We learned where they were grown and how each of them could be used in various recipes. Some of the peppers were heavily smoked in addition to being dry, and it was amazing to smell the differences between just a dried pepper and a smoked and dried pepper.

Fruits and Vegetable Sellers

Next up, we visited the local fruits and veggie sellers, which is Beto’s favourite in the marketplace. This one stand has been run by the same family for five generations. He explained to us all about the different varieties of vegetables you can find in a traditional Mexican garden. In one garden beds, pretty much anywhere in Mexico, you can grow everything you need to sustain yourself. Beto told us all about which fruits and veggies were originally from Mexico and which were imported early in its colonization. Today, all of these are used together to form the fabric of Mexico’s culinary culture.

One of the oldest fruits to be included in the pinata was the Tejocote. These are still sold today in the market, but rarely are they always included in the pinatas. These Aztec fruits resemble a crabapple and are both similar in taste and shape but have the most wonderful golden colour.

Street Food

After looking at all this food, it was finally time to try some for ourselves. Just before the lunch rush, we headed to the back of the market, where a few ladies were preparing tlacoyo. You’ve probably seen tlacoyo all over the city but, if you were like me, had no idea what was in them. They’re made from blue corn dough and filled with beans and then fried on the grill. Once cooked, they are garnished with Oaxaca or cotija cheese, nopales, salsa and chicharrón.

We also tried out their breakfast version, which was made with fried potatoes cooked with chorizo. It was fantastic!

Molino y Tortilleria Golilas De Amor

This brought us to the end of the marketplace tour, so we headed on our way over to Casa Jacaranda. On our way, we past Beto’s favourite tortilla makers, Molino Y Tortilleria Golilas De Amor. Molino y Tortilleria Golilas De Amor hand makes corn tortilla, made from fresh masa every day. The kind old man behind the counter would grab a hot one fresh off the press and hand it to us to taste. You would first sprinkle some salt on top, then some salsa (spicy of course) and roll it up before eating it to ensure the salsa and salt was in every bite.

Corn tortillas were first invented around 10,000 BC when corn was domesticated in Mexico. Corn was life in Mexico, as it was their primary source of carbs (which equal energy). During the Aztec empire, one of the most popular dishes was tortillas, with chilli sauce, beans and squash. Today local workers still come to tortillerias to get fresh tortillas, salsa, rice and beans, which they will bring to the worksite to enjoy for their lunch. Just like it was thousands of years ago. Some things never change…

Roma Norte

The streets around Beto’s house were rich with incredible architecture. This neighbourhood was originally designed for the upper class in the early twentieth century, so they found the finest designers and architects to make masterfully houses. Art deco and neo-classical designs reign supreme here as do the enormous Jacaranda trees which line the streets, creating a canopy over the entire block.

Casa Jacaranda

Casa Jacaranda is named as such due to the rich collection of old Jacaranda trees on the street and the large one which hangs over Beto’s house. Jacaranda trees arrived in Mexico City from Brazil. Their large canopy and bright lavender blooms made them a hot commodity for any burgeoning neighbourhood!

When we first walked through the doors at Casa Jacaranda, we were gobsmacked. I had expected a simple kitchen or workspace, but what we found was a gorgeously restored and renovated 1930’s house. It was decorated floor to ceiling in beautiful works of art, historical ephemera and knickknacks, which represent the cultures and culinary traditions of Mexico. There were also so many personal mementos and pictures around the house, it truly made us feel at home. I found it hard to get my head in the game to cook since all I wanted to do was pour through the bookshelves and study the paintings on the wall.

The Menu

There are a variety of options for the menu which you’ll make with the group. Although some of us had reviewed the website and knew the options, we needed to make a choice as a group as to what we wanted to cook. We opted for the mole since we felt it had the richest in history, and we were all interested in that aspect of Mexican cooking. No matter what main meal you pick, you’ll always end up making a full menu with two appetizers, one entree and a dessert.

Making the Mole

The first recipe we dove into was the mole. Beto started off by laying out the method and all the steps needed for its preparation on the blackboard behind us. I’m not going to share that with you here since it was his own adapted recipe and something he has perfected over the years. But if you yourself book a class with him he shares with the class all those recipes and more and you come away with almost a full recipe book of printed meals to make at home!

Mole is made with 28 different ingredients, although Beto kindly makes his with 26 since he removes the bread (gluten) and the peanuts, so this recipe can more easily accommodate a variety of allergies. Beto’s mole is adapted from a version of the recipe from Puebla, a region in the east which is known for its culinary history and traditions. Beto has been making this recipe for years with his family, so you really feel like you’re making something that was designed to be made with love.

Ingredients

Before we even arrived, all the ingredients were laid out for us. Beto’s handy assistant had torn through the market to buy all the supplies we needed while we were leisurely wandered through the market. This allowed us to learn from Beto about all the component which now sat on the table before us.

One of our favourite parts of the experience was just listening to Beto chat away about the history of some of these ingredients and recipes and how they came to be. He really was a wealth of information and entertainment all to himself.

Red and Green Salsa

Then it was time for the salsas. We made two salsas; fresh green salsa with a more spicy kick and a rich, smokey red salsa. The green salsa was my absolute favourite. I could have eaten it all day with anything! Despite only having five ingredients, the way it was prepared made it taste like the most complex and amazing thing you ever put in your mouth!

To make the red salsa, we used a molcajete, a stone tool like the American mortar and pestle. We learned all about how to care for a molcajete and saw three different ones that Beto owned; one was his own, one was his mother’s, and the last, his grandmother’s. Each one looked the same and yet different, the older they got, the smoother their surface. It was like working with a piece of his family’s history.

Tamales

Next up were the tamales! Every morning on the streets, you’ll see hundreds of men and women either on bikes or set up on street corners selling tamales. Tamales are super popular at breakfast time since they are hearty, cheap and SAFE to eat (since they are made by continually steaming the food, keeping it sanitary). The recipe for tamales is thought to date all the way back to Mesoamerica in around 5000 BC. A ‘tamal’ is made from corn masa, which is filled with either meat, cheese, or vegetables.

Corn Tortillas

Finally, it was time for us to learn how to make tortillas from scratch! Despite meeting our amazing tortilla maker, there is just nothing like fresh tortillas hot off the grill. We had such a good time learning when to flip the tortillas and how to make them puff up in the perfect way! It was a busy, laugh-inducing experience that had us all grinning ear to ear.

Cocktails

Now that all our recipes were finished, it was time for a drink! Beto made us all a Paloma, served with traditional Mexican tequila and finished with a slice of grapefruit and a pink peppercorn salted rim!

After all this busy cooking, it was nice to sit down and enjoy each other’s company. We had chatted a bit with our fellow cooks, but while we started to dig into the beef tacos, we finally had the chance to talk more in-depth and learn all about them. It was one of the guest’s birthdays the day we were there, and we had many “happy birthday” cheers and made the entire night a big celebration! It felt like having dinner with friends by the end of the night.

Rooftop Dinner

After we were finished cooking, we were escorted upstairs to the rooftop garden and dining table. The beautiful table was laid out under the jacaranda tree. Despite the tree not being in bloom when we visited, there were plenty of other plants and flowers on the rooftop to make us feel like we were dining in a tropical forest.

The meal was served with some incredible Mexican wine and fresh hibiscus juice, which paired perfectly with everything on the table! We dove right into the food, so quickly in fact that I completely forgot to take a picture of my beautiful plate. But here is a shot of our smiling faces which say it all.

The mole was served with shredded chicken. We eat it along with some incredible garlic rice we made earlier. Atop the mole you absolutely must dress it with a sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds and thinly sliced onions. Both these two items seem to make such a massive difference in the flavour. I have had mole a few times and have to say it’s not always my favourite. Often it’s just too sweet. But this mole was perfect, not too sweet, not too bitter, and so flavourful!

Tequila & Mezcal

The end of the meal was finished off with a tequila and mezcal flight. We tried some truly unique varieties, some of which you couldn’t even find in stores! This is the perfect ‘sobremesa.’ A sobremesa is a Spanish tradition of relaxing at the table after a heavy meal. We sipped our liqueurs and asked everyone about their time in the city. We shared our favourite food spots and sights in the city, and I made more than a few notes of restaurants to try out next time we’re in town!

I hope this gives you some insight into what a day with Beto and the Casa Jacaranda is like. So if you’re like me and were on the fence about whether or not you should book this experience, it helps you make your decision. And honestly, DO NOT HESITATE to book it ASAP. This is more than a cooking class. It is a day out with friends. A historical lecture. A DELICIOUS home-cooked meal. An insightful study of Mexican food. And best of all, a learning experience you can bring home with you to share with your family and friends.

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