As a solo traveller in London, I know how hard it is to fit all that food in your stomach (and budget.) So, I’ve done my best to select the best culinary experiences that Borough Market offers for you to choose your favourites from. But remember, it’s all about exploration, so if something calls to you, seek it out. You might just discover a new favourite dish. Grab your appetite and let’s explore!

Table Of Contents

1. History of Borough Market
2. Hours of Operation
3. Location & Access
4. Map of Market Guide
5. Advice on Crowds and Lines
6. Covent Garden Portico
7. Monmouth Coffee Company
8. Ginger Pig
9. Richard Haward's Oysters
10. Borough Olives
11. Kappacasein Dairy
12. Turnips
13. Heritage Cheese
14. The Black Pig
15. Comptoir Gourmand
16. Humble Crumble

History of Borough Market

Borough Market is one of London’s oldest food markets in the heart of Southwark, with a rich history dating back over 1,000 years. The original entrance to the city of London was located just a stone’s throw away from the market, on the London bridge.

But London Bridge in the 12 century was a much different scene than today. These days, London Bridge is one of the most austere pieces of architecture along the Thames. Providing visitors and locals with a straight shot across the river and nothing more. But back in Medieval London, the bridge was a veritable cacophony of life. The entire bridge was lined with shops and houses, one piled on top of the other, creating a vibrant and bustling commercial center.

Medieval Borough Market

This brought in loads of traders, but these merchants required a space much larger than the already overwhelmed bridge. This is where the first Borough Market was conceived. The market, located just opposite the entrance to the city, initially dealt with trading grain and large livestock. But as the years passed and the market expanded. It became a commercial district selling produce, leather, pottery, soap and more.

If you think Borough Market is crowded today, imagine the chaos you would have found here in the 16th century. The market was packed to the brim with fishmongers and butchers. The most foul-smelling sellers were located as close as possible to the bridge and river as possible. This meant they could have access to drainage to keep those odours out of the street. The less foul-smelling your business, the more inward your stalls were from the river. Almost like medieval grocery stall aisles.

The New Borough Market

But the market was growing out of control. Borough Market was smack dab in the center of London’s main entryway, acting as a blocked artery into the city. It caused such traffic congestion that, in 1754, the market was forced to close by an Act of Parliament. Luckily, in 1756 local parishioners were able to set up another market on a new site that would become the Borough Market we know today.

The iconic art deco green wrought iron building was the design of architect Henry Rose and was built in 1932. For years the covered market mainly sold local produce and was only frequented by the Southwark residents. But in the 1990s, the artisanal restaurant boom was beginning to take shape in London. Various pioneering food businesses saw the potential of revitalizing the British food scene and felt that Borough Market was the place to do so! They hoped on the trend of food markets serving up small bites from local restaurants. Combined with more traditional market stalls selling preserves, produce, fresh meats, and pastries.

Ethically Sourced

Most people probably don’t know that Borough Market is run by a charitable trust. This group overseas has a strict food policy within the market itself. This policy was implemented in the 1990s to ensure the traders’ ongoing commitment to quality, sustainability and ethics. This includes environmental sustainability and animal welfare. These policies can make you feel better about the food you’re buying. Not just any stall can sell food here. Only the best of the best of London gets to call themselves a vendor at Borough Market!

Hours of Operation

Unlike other markets in London, this market is open seven days a week. Monday to Friday, it’s open 10 am – 5 pm, Saturdays from 8 am – 5 pm, and Sundays 10 am – 3 pm. Although the main market is open all week, various stalls are only open from Wednesday onwards. I’ve done my best to outline the opening times of each stall below. Remember not to leave your Market visit too late in the evening as many shops will sell out.

Location & Access

The best way to get to Borough market is via the London Underground. They are conveniently located right beside the London Bridge Underground station, which is serviced by the Jubilee and Northern Lines. After exiting the train, follow signs for Borough Market, and you’ll find yourself there in under a few minutes.

Map of Market Guide

Advice on Crowds and Lines

A word of warning on the crowds. Many of the most popular food stalls here can get really busy. There are times when the lines for food can get up to an hour long! Especially on the weekends, the entire market can get super crowded. To avoid the lines, try to visit Borough Markets on a weekday. Wednesday and Thursdays are best to find the most shops open but not as busy as the weekends.

Unless there is a food stall you have been dreaming of and absolutely CANNOT MISS, if the queue is too long, give it a miss. Or come back later to see if the line is any shorter. Your vacation time is precious. And often, no matter how good the food really is, the taste can be soured by having to wait in a frustratingly long line. There are so many options in these markets, so don’t be afraid to skip that one “must-try” stop and give something different a go. I’ve included a number of different stops, more than any one stomach could fill, to ensure there is always multiple options for your day out in Borough Market.

Covent Garden Portico

We will start our tour in front of the beautiful wrought iron portico on Stoney Street, just north of Park Street. The gorgeous portico was only added to the facade in the 2000s. But this historical piece of architecture was built in 1850. The portico once dominated the entrance to the floral hall in Covent Garden. In the 1980s, when Covent Garden was being renovated, this portico was removed and stored by the historic society. Not wanting to simply ditch this amazing piece of London’s history. During Borough Market’s revitalization project, they saw the opportunity to repurpose the old portico on the west side of the market. Borough Market bought it from the Covent Garden trust for a whopping sum of £1.

Monmouth Coffee Company

The perfect way to start the morning off right is with a cup of coffee or tea from Monmouth Coffee Company! Monmouth Coffee Company is now one of London’s most popular indie coffee chains, but it first originated here in the late 1990s. Its charming interior blends modern fixtures with old red brickwork from the original building. Giving it such an old London feel mixed with classic comforts. They are serious about their beans and even have them on display behind glass. You can take a look before ordering to read about the beans before brewing.

Price: Latte £3.80 | Filtered Coffee £3.80 | Iced Latee £4.30
Open Tuesday – Saturday

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Ginger Pig

Next, let’s head across the street and hit up Ginger Pig. All the meat for sale at Ginger pig is from native British rare breed livestock. Their fresh beef is butchered on-site, so many locals come here for prime cuts of beef for their Sunday roast. But we have come here for those glossy sausage rolls, steaming up the display case. These are one of the most filling sausage rolls in the city! Even just lifting this baby up to your mouth is a workout! Plan on splitting it up if you eat your way through the market.

Although wrapping meat inside pastry is a Roman recipe, the history of sausage rolls in the UK can be traced back to the early 1800s. Sausage rolls were believed to be a portable and convenient snack for working-class labourers. It was a way to get a quick and filling meal while working. The first recorded mention of sausage rolls was in a British cookbook written in 1851. Ever since these handy meat pockets have been considered a quintessential British food. And they should be on the top of everyone’s list to try when visiting London. While the classic pork sausage roll is the most popular, you can also get the pastry filled with British Silton cheese. Or opt for a spicy lamb roll for something a little more daring!

Prices: Traditional Sausage Roll £5 | Pork and Stilton £5.50 | Spicy Lamb £5.50
Open all week

Richard Haward’s Oysters

Just inside the entrance to the covered part of Borough Market, stop in at Richard Haward’s Oysters stand. The Haward family has been harvesting oysters in the shallow creeks outside Essex since as far back as 1792! This family knows their oysters! I was shocked to find out oysters could be found in England at all. But apparently, the warm temperatures in that area provide the perfect conditions for these delicious, fatty oysters to thrive. And since they are caught locally, the prices as surprisingly affordable. If you’ve never tried an oyster before, this is the spot to give it a go. I often suggest asking for their recommendation on what to try. Or taste a few different oysters to learn more about the subtle flavour difference that each variety of oysters has.

Price: Oysters are priced by size and variety | Try the oyster combo, which features two extra large oysters or three medium or five small, plus a glass of sparkling wine for only £10
Open all week

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Borough Olives

Borough Olives are one of my favourite spots to grab a salty snack. Something about those old wooden barrels filled with glossy marinating olives excites me and gets my mouth watering! All ingredients from Borough Olives are sourced from specialist producers in Greece, Spain and Morocco. Once harvested, the olives are brought to their Essex kitchens, dosed with various spices and marinades that turn them up to 11 on the flavour scale! A small sampling of olives is a great way to brighten your taste buds. If you are planning a little picnic, but sure to try their olive tapenade. The perfect thing to spread over a fresh loaf of bread and served with a side of cheese.

Price: Approx £4.70/200 grams
Open all week

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Kappacasein Dairy

Dash across the street quickly before delving deeper into the covered market to grab a snack at Kappacasein Dairy. Kappacasein Dairy was founded by William Oglethorpe, who studied agriculture in Switzerland before moving to London in the 1980s. This shop specializes in alpine-style cheese served up on British classics. Their best seller is the toasted cheese sandwich made with shredded raclette. These are often called “cheese toasties” and are considered another British staple food.

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In the winter, a favourite salty snack is their melted raclette, which is scraped and smothered over a plate of freshly baked potatoes. And served with a side of crunchy pickles. This comforting snack is the perfect way to warm you up on a cold or rainy day in London.

Cheese Toastie £7 | Raclette on potatoes £6
Open Thursday – Saturday

Turnips

Heading deeper into the market, make your way to Turnips Greengrocers. This shop is run by the Foster family, who source fruit and veg from all about Britain to bring the finest seasonal produce to the centre of London! While their produce is surely the visual draw of this stand, they have become very popular for their pressed fruit juices. These refreshing beverages allow you to taste the freshness of their produce without having to lug a bag full of fruit home with you.

The stand is also well known for its incredible selection of mushrooms. But visitors who didn’t have a kitchen in London mostly had to miss out on trying these precious morels. But recently, they have started selling freshly made mushroom risotto using their gorgeous produce. Cooked right in the market, for all to see and small. You can honestly sniff them out from across the market, making Turnips easy to find. If you want to amp up your risotto, you can also add freshly shaved truffles or truffle oil on top. I’m not much of a fan, so I prefer the plain risotto as it allows the true flavours of the natural mushrooms to come through. But I know truffle fans will jump at the opportunity!

Mushroom Risotto £8.50 | extra £2.5 for truffle oil | extra £15 for shaved white truffles | extra £8 for shaved black truffles
Open all week

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Heritage Cheese

If you want to sample some of the best British Cheese, head straight to the Heritage Cheese stall. This company brings together the best British and Irish artisanal cheese makers. My favourite being their selection of Blue cheeses, including the famous Stilton. I don’t think you’ve truly tried blue cheese until you’ve tried Stilton. Their stalls will happily give you a sample before slicing you off a wedge of cheese to take home. So don’t be scared to ask. If you aren’t sure what to get, ask for the Cheesemongers Choice. Give them a budget, and they will provide you with a few varieties with that price point in mind.

Around £15 for 400 grams (price depends on the variety of cheese)
Open all week

The Black Pig

The one spot in the market that I feel is worth the wait in line for the sandwiches at the Black Pig. Their signature honey truffle and parmesan pork ciabatta are truly one of the best things to eat in the entire city! The pork for the sandwich is slow-roasted over hot coals all day, giving it a succulent and subtle flavour that just melts in your mouth. That combination of sweet, salty and fatty is beyond reproach. My absolute #1 recommendation! There is an area of raised seating just opposite the Black Pig if you’re looking for somewhere to sit and enjoy your food. Or just take a minute to relax before heading back into the market.

Price: Honey Truffle Parmesan £10
Open all week

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Comptoir Gourmand

I know so many people are obsessed with the doughnuts at Bread Ahead but we found them to be stale and the queue is always really really long! Instead, consider checking out Comptoir Gourmand for a dose of delicious baked goods! This amazing shop is run by chef-patissier Sebastien Wind, who was trained in France. And we all know the French have mastered the art of pastry. Everything from tender fruit tarts to huge, colourful meringues and custardy croissants can be found here in their little stall.

Price: Meringue £2.70 | Croissant £1.80 | Chocolate Twist £2.50 | Danish £3.50
Open Wednesday – Sunday

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Humble Crumble

Humble Crumble is one of those places I saw go viral online, and I thought it would just be one of those over-hyped food trends. But once I tasted it, I was shocked to find it was everything people say it is. A humble crumble is essentially a build-your-own sweet crumble bowl. You start with a base of their seasonal fruit selections. Depending on the time of year, you can get mixed berries, apples, rhubarb, strawberries or a mixture of two.

You then cover the fruit in your choice of crumble. Either classic shortbread, vegan shortbread or granola. Then the entire bowl is then smothered in the creamiest hot vanilla custard, frozen vanilla custard, or freshly whipped cream. You can also get one extra topping like dried rose petals, almond slivers, or marshmallows. For an extra 50 p, you can also get a creme brulee topping. I’m a sucker for a ‘make-your-own” sweet and this always hits the spot!

Price: Regular £6.5 Large £8
Open Tuesday – Sunday

Well, fellow foodies, we’ve reached the end of our Borough Market culinary adventure! Whether you’re a seasoned Borough Market regular or a first-time visitor, there’s always something new and delicious to discover. Whether you’re craving traditional British fare or international cuisine, you’re sure to find something to tempt your taste buds. Until next time,

Happy Eating, Adventurers!

The post Exploring Borough Market’s Best Culinary Delights: the Ultimate Foodie Guide first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

This outer market grew up around the Tsukiji Fish Market. It supported the local and tourist populations gathering in this part of Tokyo. The narrow streets and alleys around the market housed some of the best casual restaurants and tiny street food vendors that served fish straight from the market. It also was (and is) where you could find great shopping for kitchen and household goods! Contrary to popular thought, this part of town did not disappear along with the fish market’s move to Koto City. The Tsukiji Outer Market is still a bustling area of Tokyo, even without the fish market nearby. So don’t miss this amazing foodie paradise, and make sure you follow our guide to the best of the Tsukiji Outer Market.

Table Of Contents

1. What is the Tsukiji Outer Market?
2. Access
3. Everything You Need to Eat!
   • Fresh Sushi
   • Tsukiji Itadori Bekkan
   • Maguro / Tuna 
   • Kaisendon
   • Grilled Scallops & Fresh Oysters
   • Tamagoyaki 
   • Fresh Fruit
   • Uni
   • Waygu
   • Unagi
   • Ice Cream
   • Daifuku Mochi
4. Shopping
   • Knife Shops
   • Ceramics
   • Spices & Dried Goods
5. Namiyoke Inari Shrine
   • Happy Travels, Adventurers!

What is the Tsukiji Outer Market?

The outer market is where you’ll find over 400 shops, grocers and small restaurants, crowded into only a few narrow alleys around what was once the largest fish market in Tokyo. The streets of the outer market explode with colour and excitement. Vendors yell at each other and passers-by 24/7, making the place feel full of life even in the very early hours of the morning.

Access

The Tsukiji Outer Market can be easily reached by foot from either Tsukiji Shijo Station on the Oedo Line or Tsukiji Station on the Hibiya Line. Shimbashi Station is the closest option for those using JR trains, with a 20-minute walk to the market.

Everything You Need to Eat!

Fresh Sushi

The outer market is the perfect spot to grab a bit of breakfast. Find a sushi bar with a bunch of old locals eating inside. Those with a line out of the door are always a surefire way to spot a good spot. While they might not have door-to-door access to fresh fish as before, they still bring in the same selection, just from a little further afield.

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Tsukiji Itadori Bekkan

Tsukiji Itadori Bekkan is one of the most popular spots in the outer market to find the best sushi and sashimi. It’s made to order, so you know it’s super fresh. It’s definitely on the more expensive side but well worth the price. The seasonal selection by the chef with 10 pieces of sushi and a roll will run you 5100 yen. They also have a Nagomi plate with seven pieces of shish and a roll for 3600. 

Maguro / Tuna 

Tuna is one of the most important fish sold at the fish market. One of the most popular tourist attractions at the new market is the Tuna auction. Early morning risers head to the market at the crack of dawn to witness the bidding wars that break out over the best pieces of fish caught that day. To see what all the fuss is about, you should make a point to seek out some fresh Maguro (tuna) served up on sushi or as sashimi. There are often variety plates that feature different varieties such as bluefin, fatty, medium fatty and regular tuna. A great way to see which is your favourite, so you know what to order next time. These can be expensive as tuna isn’t cheap, so expect to pay upwards of 3000 yen for a multi-piece tray.

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Kaisendon

A traditional breakfast dish eaten in Japan is Kaisendon. Kaisendon is a traditional Japanese dish consisting of a bowl of rice (“donburi”) topped with a variety of raw, fresh seafood (“kaizen”) known as sashimi. These can be found throughout the market, and every shop has its own unique take on the dish. You’ll always be served a variety of fish, everything from fatty tuna, shrimp, egg and other fresh daily fish selections. Bowls range from 1500 to 3000 yen.

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Grilled Scallops & Fresh Oysters

If you’re a seafood connoisseur and want the best of the best, plenty of shops here will be right up your alley. One of the most popular street foods in the Outer Market is fresh grilled scallops cooked over a charcoal flame. Thanks to the grilling, they have the most delicious flavour, which balances the sweetness of the scallop perfectly. These will run you about 1000 yen.

Another delight of the market is these larger-than-life oysters. They are absolutely oversized but nevertheless delicious. They taste clean and fresh and cost you about 700-800 yen.

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Tamagoyaki 

Plenty is more on offer if you’re not in the mood for fresh fish. Tamagoyaki is rolled-up, freshly made Japanese-style omelettes. They are super cheap at only 100 yen and a delicious way to start the day or just as a mid-afternoon snack. An entire slab of tamagoyaki runs about 500 – 800 yen, depending on if there are any additional ingredients. Great to share with friends.

Fresh Fruit

Tsukiji has always had a wide selection of fresh fruit vendors selling some of the best produce in the city. Is there anything more precious than the delicately wrapped fruits of Japan? I think not. Highly recommend, especially when in season, the strawberries. Japan is well known for its perfectly grown strawberries. And while they might seem pricey, they are spectacular. They even sell white strawberries which are super unique and even more delicious. A bowl of fresh strawberries generally costs about 500 yen for a selection.

Uni

One of the most uniquely Japanese delicacies has got to be fresh uni. Uni, or sea urchin, is the edible portion of the inside of spiny sea urchins. The taste is unrivalled. It’s almost buttery, with a sea-like flavour. I love it, and getting it fresh from the market is one of the best places to try it. They serve it on its own in various spots in Tsukiji and on sushi rice if you prefer to try it with a little bit of rice. Uni is a little pricey, a bowl of pure uni will run you about 1500 yen, but a single piece of uni sushi will be much less expensive.

Waygu

Another food item that many people coming to Japan might be looking for is Waygu beef. Wagyu is the classification given to four different Japanese breeds of beef cattle. It is widely known for being the most tender, delicious beef you can eat. In the Tsukiji market, you’ll see lots of stands selling sticks of Wagyu beef. Some shops sell thinner slices of beef you can pick out, and they cook it right before you. Overall, I prefer to have my Waygu in a restaurant. But if this is your only opportunity to try it, you can always pick out a small slice to ensure you try this pedigree cut of beef at least once!

Unagi

Another traditional dish served in the market is Unagi. Unagi is freshly grilled eel, slathered in a thick, sweet and savoury sauce which is carmelized over the fish as it cooks over a hot grill. You can find sticks of Unagi for around 300 yen. If you’ve never had Unagi, this is a great opportunity to try it out!

Ice Cream

If you’re in the mood for desserts, soft-serve ice cream will always be on offer all over the outer market. Dozens of different flavours to choose from spill out along the streets. Vendors are ready to give a sweet treat to anyone walking by, even on colder days.

Daifuku Mochi

Mochi is one of my favourite Japanese sweets. Mochi is made from pounding sweet rice flour into a gummy texture wrapped around different fillings like macha or sweet red bean paste. In the Tsukiji Market, you can find mochi topped with a fresh red or white strawberry that amps the flavour up to 100!

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Shopping

Knife Shops

The Tsukiji Outer market is home to many stores selling specialty chef and kitchen utensils. Most of these were opened to be geared toward sushi chefs preparing their fish. But today, they are a little more broad and open to everyone. Inside you’ll find professional-grade knives. Japanese knives are known as some of the best in the world, and if you’re looking for an upgrade to your kitchen collection, this is such a wonderful souvenir to treat yourself to. Something you will use for the rest of your life.

Ceramics

The ceramics in the market were my favourite thing to pursue. They were so inexpensive, but the designs were incredible. The vibrant colours and intricate paintings were handmade, each a little different from the next. I would pick out my favourite patterns from each shop and, at the end of the day, have a little collection of four perfectly mismatched, but that’s what makes it so charming.

Spices & Dried Goods

Tsukiji is also a wonderful place to shop for spices and dried goods. One of the best things to look for is homemade Furikake. Furikake is a dry Japanese condiment made from green and nori seaweed flakes. In addition to the seaweed, there are a variety of additional ingredients added for the various flavours, from sesame seeds, fish flakes, spices and more. Furikake is used to sprinkle on top of rice, veggies, and anything you like. But the ones made fresh from the market are even more special and a great gift to bring home.

Namiyoke Inari Shrine

While in the market, you should definitely make a visit to the small Namiyoke Inari Shrine. This shrine was the guardian of the marketplace and its traders when the old fish market was here. The name means “protection from waves,” which is very suitable for all the fishermen who pass by daily. Although the fisherman has moved, the shrine remains. The courtyard is dotted with various memorial plaques and carvings donated by trade groups in the marketplace. An excellent way to bring happiness and prosperity to the traders.

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One of the greatest things to do while walking around the Tsukiji Outer Market is exploring. Get lost, and you’ll always discover something fantastic. The smells from each alleyway changes from street to street. Sweet, sour, fishy, spicy and pungent. A feast for the senses. 

The greatest thing about this place is that after the exodus of the Fish market, the area became a little more local. Sure, it’s still immensely popular with tourists, but it’s equally just a spot for locals to grab something to eat on their way to work. You’ll pass hundreds of people on their way to grab a snack before they get on the train or mothers pushing prams trying to do their morning shopping.

I love watching locals doing their thing, living in their city, and experiencing the environments the way they were supposed to be experienced. Not as guests, as settlers.

The outer market is busy, loud and unmissable. Make sure you carve out time in your next trip to Tokyo to explore and eat all there is on offer!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Ultimate Guide to Tsukiji Outer Market’s Must-Try Foods [UPDATED 2023] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

About L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is known as the “Venice of Provence” to many locals. Moss-covered water wheels sparkly in the morning sunlight. These water wheels are an important historical icon of the city. Back in the 12th century, the rivers were primarily used for fishing, which was the biggest industry in the city. The first houses built in the area were built on stilts, just like in Venice! Even today, the village still honours their fishing heritage by hosting a festival on the third Sunday in July. Its hosted by the brotherhood of Pescaire Lilien (fishers of the Isle) and features demonstrations of the ancient fishing techniques. If you happen to be in the area around the time of the festival, don’t miss checking it out!

Water Wheels

After the fishing industry disappeared and moved closer to the coasts, the city turned to the textile industry. They used the river to power the water wheels used for silk, tanneries, and paper mills. There are still 14 remaining water wheels around the city, and it’s really fun trying to find them all as you explore. I’ve added them all to the map in this guide if you want to easily find them all.

Today the industry is primarily powered by antiques and sightseers perusing the ancient streets. Gorgeous, rustic french houses are still on show on either side of the river. They seem to beam with excitement, green trees hang over sidewalks and even the alleyways smell of freshly baked bread permeating the air.

Table Of Contents

1. About L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
   • Water Wheels
2. Where is the Market?
3. When is the Market?
4. Getting There
5. How Long to Spend at the Market?
6. Bring Cash
7. French Tips
8. Self-Guided Walking Tour of L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
   • Café de France
   • Place de la Liberté
   • Église Notre-Dame-des-Anges de L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
   • Rue Rose Goudard
   • Quai Jean Jaurès
   • Avenue des Quatre Otages – Antique Market
   • What to Avoid in the Market?
   • Picnic in Public Garden

Where is the Market?

The Market in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is located along the Sorgue river in Southeastern France. Just west of Avignon in the Vaucluse région of Provence. The gorgeous market is located around the Place de la Liberté, Place Ferdinand Buisson, Rue Carnot, Rue de la République and on Place Rose Goudard.

When is the Market?

The Market is held every Thursday and Sunday, but the Sunday market is far superior. On Sundays, you can find what the french call a “brocante” also called a flea market! Some market stalls open as early as 6 am, but most stalls will open around 8 am and close at 2 pm. The cheapest prices of the day can be found just before closing as sellers often try to get rid of their produce before heading home.

Getting There

By Train

If you are planning on taking the train, the station is a short walk from the market. I prefer taking the train if I’m staying nearby as this means you never need to worry about finding a parking spot! You’ll want to find trains on their way towards L’Isle-sur-Sorgue—Fontaine-de-Vaucluse. Luckily Avignon has a direct train to L’Isle-sur-Sorgue, which only takes 36 minutes. From other cities like Arles, Marseille, Aix-en-Provence and Orange, the trip is just over an hour with a straightforward change. Tickets cost anywhere between 10€ and 30€ depending on your starting location.

By Car

L’Isle-sur-Sorgue is located at the intersection of the D31, D901 and D938 highways. This makes it an easy drive from a myriad of surrounding towns. The only downside of driving is finding a parking spot but that can easily be remedied by arriving early.

Parking

Parking is a premium, so I would advise arriving before 8 am. This ensures a nice spot close to the market and less stress! Watching the vendors magically unfurl their goods into a full-on shop front is one of the best parts of the day. If you arrive late, there often aren’t parking spots available. So you’ll find yourself driving around and around, waiting for someone to leave. If all the vendors are still setting up, head out to find an open coffee shop. I highly recommend Café de France! After nabbing some caffeine and a snack, find a quiet spot on the grass along the river. Here you can enjoy a bit of quiet before the hustle and bustle of the busy market erupt.

Remember: be sure not to leave any valuables in your car. Since this is a popular tourist spot, there is always a chance that someone could break in. Best to make sure not to give them any reason to do so and keep the interior empty.

How Long to Spend at the Market?

I would advise at least three hours to spend in the market. The antique area alone is bound to cast a spell on you. You’ll find yourself just immersed in a treasure hunt! And making your way around the food market and creating your own DIY picnic is the best way to enjoy the goodies you find along the way. Rushing in and out doesn’t allow you to truly appreciate the amazing things on sale in this charming market.

Bring Cash

If you’re waiting for the market to open, be sure to stop by an ATM. Or bring lots of cash with you. The vendors will almost always only accept cash, and it’s good to get enough to last you throughout the day. Since it gets so busy here, it is common for ATMs to run out of money by midday. Keep that in mind.

French Tips

One key thing to making good with the vendors is knowing a bit of French.  Although the vendors interact with tourists often, it’s nice to show them a bit of respect. Even a simple please (s’il vous plaît) or thank you (merci) goes a long way. And a warm greeting of “bonjour” is required to be considered polite. If you want to ask the price of something, simply say “c’est combine?” And remember if you don’t want to interrupt or be extra considerate, you can always say “excuse moi” before trying to interject. All these little sayings will go a long way to indear yourself to the vendor for even trying!

Self-Guided Walking Tour of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

Café de France

To start your morning in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, head to grab a coffee at the somewhat famous Café de France. This Art Nouveau coffee shop is the oldest cafe on the Isle, and you can feel the historic atmosphere just walking inside. The counter is stained with water rings from orders past and the charming posters on the walls reflect the ages gone by. Large tarnished mirrors between dark wooden panelling make this place a quintessential brasserie.

If there’s space on the outdoor terrace grab a table. The people-watching opportunities here are amazing, as you can catch vendors on their way to the market, arms full of their goods ready to be set up! Although the food is slightly overpriced, this is often the price you pay to dine inside history!

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Place de la Liberté

Place de la Liberté is one of my favourite little streets in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. So even if you don’t find you need a coffee, I still implore you to walk along this street to enjoy the incredible street signage and old French shops. Colourful window shutters line the second floors, while wrought-iron awnings protect the gorgeous painted exteriors along the street!

Église Notre-Dame-des-Anges de L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

Walking along Place de la Liberté you have a view, albeit from the side, of the great Église Notre-Dame-des-Anges de L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. While the exterior is a bit austere, you absolutely must head inside! Even if just for a moment, you need a quick peek at the incredible architecture found within.

The original Romanesque church was built in 1222. But the shock and awe of this building lie in the baroque-era decorations that adorn almost every surface inside. Gilded altarpieces, detailed sculptures, ribbed vaulting, rich paintings and fantastical frescos awe and inspire the visitors. As you enter, your eyes will be darting all over the room, trying to take it all in! Although we came here for the market, this church is NOT to be missed, even if just for a moment.

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The primary colour scheme within the church is blue and gold, a popular pairing for baroque Provençale.

Rue Rose Goudard

Head back outside and along the Place de L’Eglise. Often there are a few stands just starting to open up along this street. More appear as you continue south-east along Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau. But the largest selection of fresh food can mostly be found collected along the Rue Rose Goudard. Seasonal fruit and vegetables, charcuterie and olives pour out of charming wood and thicker baskets under brightly coloured awnings. Vegetables almost beam with brilliance they are so vibrantly coloured. You can’t help but want to try a piece of them all!

What to Buy in the Market?

So what to buy? One of the best things to do is gather items for a picnic luncheon. Fresh sausage is one of the best items in the market. Packed with incredible spices and made from some of the best meats in France, these cured delights are a must-grab!

The produce is some of the best in the country here in Provence. Melons, peppers, strawberries and cherries are as bright as they are juicy. Vendors often have samples out in front, so you can try whichever one catches your fancy.

If you’re looking for something to bring home, there is an assortment of olive oils in beautifully designed bottles. But if you just want something to nosh on today, olives are another great Provencal treat! Plus, they are a great addition to the rest of your picnic goods. You can combine all different varieties, perfect for sampling a bit of everything. 

The French are KNOWN for their cheese and bread! There perhaps isn’t a more iconic image of French dining. The cheese on offer here in the market is just as good as any luxury grocery store and often twice as fresh.

If you’re staying for a few days, grab a bouquet of flowers to brighten up your hotel room. The smell and colours are unforgettable!

Quai Jean Jaurès

As you continue wandering towards the Sorgue River, you’ll exit onto Quai Jean Jaurès. This street is where the market continues but where it transforms into more souvenir-type items. Everything from wooden kitchen utensils, textiles, handicrafts and clothes can be found here.

Dried lavender is sold in bags and bouquets all over the market. This is the perfect souvenir to bring home. In a sachet, it keeps the clothing in your drawers smelling fresh and of those memories from Provence. Grabbing a bundle of dried lavender is great to display but can be hard to transport home in one piece!

Soap is another thing you’ll see hundreds of shops selling. All in different designs and prices. Check to see if it was made in Provence before buying! You want the real thing. There will often be a discount if you buy in bulk, making great gifts for anyone back at home.

Avenue des Quatre Otages – Antique Market

The pop-up antique brocante vendors are located on the south side of the river, along the Avenue des Quatre Otages. A tip for shopping here is that haggling isn’t common and neither is getting a good deal. But the selection is great, and I found plenty at prices I thought were more than fair for the quality. The prices are often very well labelled, so even if you don’t speak French you should be able to shop without having to ask to vendors for pricing. Remember, if you see something you love, buy it right away. As it might be gone before you have the chance to return.

Best Antique Finds?!

Although things like furniture might not be able to fit into your suitcase, there are lots of smaller items which are worth considering. Many different vendors sell beautiful prints taken from old manuscripts and books. Once framed, make for a one-of-a-kind souvenir. 

Textiles are another great thing to keep an eye out for. Napkins, tablecloths, purses and blankets are often beautifully embroidered. They are sometimes even monogrammed – so keep an eye out, and you might even find one that matches your name!

What to Avoid in the Market?

Now, what are the best items to buy in the market? And what to avoid? The stuff to avoid is quite obvious – anything that isn’t decidedly French. Keep an eye out for “made in China” stickers on clothing, ceramics and even some textiles. I was surprised how many pieces of pottery I came across that were simply painted and not provencal in the slightest bit.

Picnic in Public Garden

After grabbing all you can carry, head back down the river and find a nice spot under the trees in the Public Garden. The park features tons of grassy patches to lay out with your delicious selection of the day. On Sundays, musicians stroll around, playing to entertain the visitors.

Along the river’s edge, painters are set up with their oils and pencils. Sketching the iconic scenery. Watching them work while enjoying your French meal makes for a darling little afternoon treat. Listening to the water wheels peddling in the distance.

This brings us to the end of the self-guided tour of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. If you want to extend your stay, consider simply wandering through the backstreets. While the market might have the biggest draw, the charming little houses in some unassuming back alleys contain some of the most iconic French sights you’ll see in Provence. Bright window shutters contrast the aging patina of the beige buildings. Cheerful street cats prowl around every corner. Secrets to be found wherever you go!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Ultimate Guide to Spectacular L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue Market [UPDATED 2023] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

A Welcome Bouquet

I find that a bouquet of fresh flowers is the perfect thing to buy yourself upon arriving in a new city. It gives you a little task to complete, allows you to explore a new part of the city, and brings a touch of your personality into any standard hotel room. If you’ve been in Mexico City for any length of time, you’ll undoubtedly have seen the vast flower carts that wheel around the city. Bursting with brightly coloured flowers as they mill about the streets.

There are also beautiful flower stands that dot the edges of busy neighbourhoods and leafy promenades. Basically, you won’t be far from flowers anywhere you go in Mexico City! But the source of all these incredible flowers is the great Mercado Jamaica. So if you want to get your flowers from the source, a trip to Mercado Jamaica is well worth your time. But there is so much more to see in this marketplace than just flowers. Come hungry as this flower market is also home to some of the most amazing food anywhere in the city!

Guide to the Mercado Jamaica

1. Location & How to Get there?
2. History of the Jamaica Market
3. Tips
   • Notes on Photography
   • Holidays
   • Helpful Spanish
4. The Layout of the Market
5. Carnitas Paty
   • Tepache
6. Huaraches Rossy
7. Mariscos Los Paisas
8. Piñata Market
9. Fresh Fruit Stands
10. Jamaica Flowers
11. Chorizo Verde
12. Flower Market
13. Florists
14. La Güera Elotes
15. Mural

Location & How to Get there?

The Mercado Jamaica is located on the corner of Avenida Congreso de la Unión and Avenida Morelos, southeast of the Historic Center of Mexico City. 

Uber

Uber is always my best recommendation for travel in Mexico City. It’s very safe and very cheap! The Mercado Jamaica is about a 13-minute ride from La Condesa, Roma Norte or the Historic Centre. And it will only cost you about 35 pesos or $1.35 USD! Although traffic in Mexico City is as bad as you might have heard, just avoid peak hours and you should be fine to avoid the worst of the traffic.

Metro

The market is also easily accessible by the metro. If you are departing from La Condesa or Roma you can hop on brown line #9. Get on at Chilpancingo station and take the train four stops to Jamaica station (about 12 minutes). If you are departing from the Historic Centre, you’ll need to take two different metro lines. First, depart from the #2 blue line from Tasqueña station and take it three stops to Chabacano station (6 mins). Transfer from here to the brown line #9 and continue one stop towards Jamaica station (3 mins). The metro costs only 5 pesos, and if you’re up for more of an adventurous journey, this is an easy and quick trip. But always be sure to practice caution on the metro and keep your valuables safe and not on display.

History of the Jamaica Market

Although you might read the word “Jamaica” and think of the country, Jamaica is actually the Spanish word for hibiscus flower. So the name of the market translates into the Hibiscus Market. The Mercado Jamaica was officially established in the 1950s when the eastern part of Mexico City was a governmental focus for modernization and revitalization. But outdoor marketplaces have existed in this spot for hundreds of years. Being located to the east of the city, near the chinampas of Lake Xochimilco, this part of town has always had wonderful access to the fruits, vegetables and flowers that have been grown there for centuries.

Tips

Cash is King

Bring cash with you to the market to buy your flowers and food as almost everywhere is cash only. But remember not to carry too much money on you when arriving as you need to be aware of pickpockets in such a busy environment. I would bring about 500 pesos ($25 USD) per person, which is more than enough if you want to buy yourself a lovely bouquet, grab some food and get a little left if you see a souvenir or two you’d like to purchase. 

Come Hungry!

Despite the fact that we are going to what is known for being a “flower market” this is still a foodie’s paradise so come on an empty stomach and get ready to eat. If you get full but want to come back for more food later you can always grab a bite to eat to start, then explore the flower market, and return to the starting point where you can sample the rest of the eateries you didn’t try earlier.

How to Keep Safe

This market is slightly outside the tourist centre, so you should be more cautious about your belongings. But no more than you should be in any busy marketplace anywhere in the world. Keeping aware of your surroundings is the most important thing you can do. If you carry a backpack, you can wear it in front of you. And always be sure to keep any valuables zipped inside inner pockets. Remember, this is a very busy, working market, so be sure not to stand in the way of people going about their business. Large carts and trucks often go up and down the aisles making deliveries, so keep a lookout for them.

Notes on Photography

I took many pictures here, had my phone out, and never felt unsafe. But I would advise you to take out your phone or camera, snap a few pictures and then put it away instead of just keeping it in your hand. This is probably not 100% necessary, but I always lean on the side of caution.

Be sure you keep a keen eye open for the “No Photography” signs around the market. There are several reasons for this. Some florists are wary of other sellers stealing their designs so they don’t allow photos of their products. Other vendors might have personal reasons for not being photographed, spiritual or simply, for privacy. No matter the reason, please respect their wishes. Many places in the market do not have these signs, so you’ll be able to get all the pictures you need elsewhere. If in doubt, it’s always polite to ask before taking a picture.

When To Go

The best time for fresh flowers in Mexico City is from April to July. Although flowers are available year-round from greenhouses, this time of year is when you can get the flowers for the cheapest price as they are the most abundant. I would advise you to avoid going here on the weekends. This is when the market is the busiest and most chaotic. I found that visiting on the weekdays meant there was still lots to see, buy, and eat, but the atmosphere was a bit more laid back. Because this market also exports flowers around the world and throughout the country, this is the only market in Mexico City that is open 24 hours a day! So you can be sure that no matter when you visit there is something to see!

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Holidays

If you find yourself in Mexico City during the Day of the Dead festivities, Mercado Jamaica is incredible to check out. It is the main supplier of hundreds of thousands of flowers that adorn ofrendas all over the city. The market is filled to bursting during this time of year, with truckloads of marigolds coming to and from every day! Marigolds are called ‘cempaxuchitl‘ in Spanish, which means “flower of the dead.” Since they are one of the most fragile flowers they have been known to represent the fragility of life itself.

Another fantastic time of year to come to Mercado Jamaica is at Christmas time. Even in Mexico City, you’ll find hundreds of evergreen Christmas trees lining the outside of the marketplace, ready to be picked up by excited families to nestle their presents under. Inside you’ll find hundreds of poinsettias, as this Christmas flower is locally grown in Mexico. The piñatas are a real showstopper at Christmas time, and you’ll find one in almost every household. Piñatas were traditionally designed in the shape of a seven coned star, with each spoke representing one of the seven deadly sins. Bashing the piñata was the symbol of good triumphing over evil and the fruit and candy inside the reward for leading a good, Christian life.

Helpful Spanish

Here are some handy dandy Spanish words to help you out at the Market! The colours will be very helpful to learn so you can ask for the right coloured flowers to suit your bouquet.

The Layout of the Market

The Mercado Jamaica is divided into different areas called “carrils” which means lanes. The northernmost building is almost totally devoid of flowers and is primarily where you’ll find amazing street food. I’ve noted it as the “food market” on the map below. There are maps inside the market but they are few and far between so I went ahead and made my own. As you wander south, you’ll enter Carril #4. As you can see from the map below, marked in green, this section of the market sells “Articulos de 1ra Necesidad” which is like saying grocery items. This is where you’ll find produce, candies, dried peppers, toys and piñatas.

It’s not until the southernmost sections, Carril #2 and #1 that you’ll start to see the true enormity of the flower market. Before you can even see the flowers, you’ll know you’ve arrived. There are two sets of public washrooms in the market. Be sure to bring a 5 peso coin with you as they usually charge a small fee to use the washroom and get a handful of toilet paper when you go inside.

If you arrive via the metro, you should come out of the station on the north side of the market, along Avenue Morelos. If you’re arriving by Uber, set your destination to the northeast corner of the market. At the corner of Avenue Morelos and H. Congreso de la Union.

Carnitas Paty

Your first stop should be at a long communal table right at the front of the market outside the food stall Carnitas Paty. Pig heads hang in the butcher shops down the aisle, and you know right away you’re in the place to get pork! Carnitas Paty specializes in different cuts of meat served up on a double stack of fresh corn tortillas. I would go for the Costilla (ribs), lengua (tongue – which, yes, is amazing) or the trompa (roasted pork). 

All the tacos come topped with raw onions and cilantro. While I thought I’d had carnitas before, after tasting this, it felt like I had never eaten them before in my life. This was the best-tasting taco I’ve ever eaten, and I still dream about it! All their tacos cost 30 pesos, and you can sample the various salsaa spread out on the table for an extra kick.

Tepache

To pair with your tacos, you must try their tepache. Tepache is a fermented pineapple drink made from the peel and the rind of pineapples and refined cane sugar. It has that tang you get from other fermented drinks like kombucha. It is super sweet but delicious and definitely helps cleanse the palette after fatty pork tacos. It’s really the perfect combination! You can get a litre for 30 pesos, a half litre for 15 pesos or just a glass for 12 pesos.

Huaraches Rossy

Beside the Carnitas stand, you can find another stall called Huaraches Rossy. Huaraches are a Mexican street food staple made from a piece of masa dough. The dough is mixed with pinto beans and rolled into an oblong, similar to the shape of the sole of a Huarache shoe, hence the name. The dough is then fried on the comal (grill) and crowned with various toppings.

The huaraches at Huaraches Rossy are known for their sides consisting of a slice of fresh avocado, a cooked nopal pad, fried greens onions and lemon. You can get your Huarache with fried eggs (huevos), cheese (queso), ribs (Costilla), chicken breast (pechuga) and more. My favourite option if you arrive in the morning is fried eggs and cheese. Each huarache costs 65 pesos or $3.30 USD.

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Mariscos Los Paisas

One of the most famous street food stalls in Mercado Jamaica is Mariscos Los Paisas. They are best known for their famous tacos Al pastor made with octopus instead of the traditional pork shoulder. The stacked octopi are spinning around the spit as the chefs coat them in that iconic red al pastor sauce. If you only want to try the octopus tacos, you can simply order one of those, but my recommendation (if you’re a seafood lover) is to go for the trio of tacos. This consists of Carnitas de Atún (tuna tacos), Pulpo al Pastor (octopus al pastor) and Suadero con Camaron (stewed shrimp tacos). Although Mexico City is far from the ocean, they still have access to the fantastic seafood that the oceanside towns are known for. And this is one of the best places in the city to give these dishes a try.

Piñata Market

Walking deeper into the market, into the next building (Carril #4) you will start to see large stalls selling hundreds and hundreds of pinatas. Mercado Jamaica is known for its huge piñatas selection. Design range from traditional stars to cartoon characters. And I even saw a covid one! What a perfect thing to bash away at, a way of taking out all the pent-up frustration over the loss of the last two years. These stands also sell lots of toys, party decorations and little candies perfect to stuff inside the pinatas. 

Fresh Fruit Stands

In this part of the market, you’ll also find rows and rows of vendors selling fresh fruit and vegetables. Many different fruits are stacked high up on tables, they look like little gems as they are so brightly coloured and shiny. Some vacuum sealed inside pre-made fruit baskets ready to be presented as a delicious gift.

There is a myriad of different fruit on sale at the market. Many of which I had never even heard of before, let alone tasted. If you’re in town for a few days, I implore you to just go out and buy a selection of different fruits to try! Even if you have no idea what they are, they cost very little, and it’s so much fun to do a little taste test at home to see which ones are your favourite.

Fruit doesn’t need to be cooked so there’s no need for a kitchen. But you will need a good knife to cut into most fruits. I often ask the vendors if they can cut it open and then put it in a bag. If not, you can always find a vendor in the market who sells kitchen knives.

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What to Try

If you’re interested in a selection of my favourite options, I would start with the Soursop (or guanabana). This fruit is tangy, sweet, and, as the name indicates, sour. It’s a large, green fruit with a hard rind and big spikes. You also should find some black zapote, which tastes like chocolatey permission pudding! It is indeed black when you cut into it, and you can eat it out of the rind with only a spoon. The black zapote is actually green on the outside and similar in shape to a persimmon.

Chirimoya also blew my mind! The Chirimoya is also called the “custard apple” as the flesh inside the fruit is soft and the colour of custard. But it tastes like a strawberry blended with a kiwi. Mark Twain is known for calling the Chirimoya “the most delicious fruit known to man.” It is about the size of a large apple and has what almost looks like green scales on the outside.

Make sure you also see out some mamey fruit if it’s in season. Mamey is a fruit with brown, hairy skin, but it looks like a sweet potato with the pit of an avocado when you cut into it. It is like a combination of apricot, sweet potato and peach. I love the flavour, especially in a smoothie. 

Jamaica Flowers

As the name of the market suggests, you’ll find lots of dried Jamaica (hibiscus) flowers. They can be found in huge, dark purple piles hidden away inside large barrels. The flower heads themselves look like a spikey, shrivelled version of the fresh flower. Jamaica or hibiscus flowers came to Mexico after colonization and actually originated from Africa. The most popular way to use dried flowers in Mexico is in Aguas Frescas. Aguas Fresca translates to “fresh water” and are amazingly refreshing beverages made from, water mixed with a variety of different flavours. The most popular flavour is Jamaica. The drink is made by boiling dried flowers (like you’d do with ta) and mixing them with water, sugar, ginger, and cinnamon. The flavour is incredible and definitely one of my favourite ways to compliment a spicy taco. 

One of my friends also often adds just one dried flower to her pot of cardamon tea, and let me tell you, it’s life-changing! So be sure to grab yourself some dried hibiscus flowers when you’re in the market. If you’re travelling back to the US or Canada, just make sure they are in a sealed bag, but many places in the market do sell them like this if you ask.

Chorizo Verde

Among the fruits and vegetable stands, there is a butcher shop that sells one of the most unique tacos I’ve ever had! You’ll spot their shop by the bright yellow exterior, but there is no store sign outside. You’ll be able to recognize it by the large display of green herbs laid out beneath the meats on sale right out front. As well to fresh meat to bring home for dinner, they also have fresh tacos to sample right there in the Market. Order yourself up a green chorizo taco and take a seat on the small tables out front.

The green chorizo is made from pork sausage, mixed with a blend of fresh green veggies like spinach and lettuce. Then zesty green herbs are added to ramp the flavour up. Anything from cilantro, thyme, marjoram, whatever is in season. After this, they add green chillies (because heat is a staple of the chorizo sausage) and the most important and unique ingredient – NUTS! Yes, that’s right, they add anything from peanuts to pumpkins seeds or almonds to the meat. I cannot explain how unbelievable the taste of this taco is; you just have to try it for yourself. 

Flower Market

As you head further south into the market, you’ll finally start to smell the aroma of fresh flowers. Follow your nose towards the brightly coloured flowers which seem to almost erupt from the ground. Walking around the flower market is the best kind of chaos. People are milling about, grabbing cartfuls of flowers for their stands in the city and small bouquets for their homes. Voices cry over one other as people haggled for the best prices. 

Enormous sunflowers, roses, chrysanthemums, gerbera daisies and lilies line the edges of the aisles in huge brightly coloured buckets. A dozen long stem roses were on sale for only $50 pesos, which is $2.50 USD! A dozen sunflowers about 6 feet tall were on sale for $90 pesos, just 4.60. I couldn’t believe the prices, and it took everything in me not to just go nuts and buy it all. Prices were the best when I visited as it was during the Springtime. If you visit in the winter expect prices to be slightly higher as the flowers are less abundant and need to be ground in greenhouses as opposed to the chinampas.

Florists

As you move through the wholesale market, you’ll come into another section that sells MASSIVE pre-made bouquets from a myriad of different florists. These monumental displays are meant for funerals, communions, weddings and quinceañeras. The flowers are formed into giant hearts, large crosses, and baskets as big as a small child. Apparently, one of the most popular reasons people buy these huge floral arrangements is to apologize for cheating on their wives or girlfriends. The bigger the bouquet, the more sorry you’ll appear. Especially to the neighbours who can’t help but notice you walking home, with this typical guilty display.

La Güera Elotes

At the end of the market, right near the exit doors onto Guillermo Prieto street, is a small shop called La Güera Elotes, selling popular Mexican street food, but elevated to another level. Esquites are fire-roasted corn kernels stewed in lard, mixed with aromatic herbs and Arbol chillies. I’ve had esquites many times before, as they are one of my favourite street snacks, but none as delicious as the ones we got here! There are definitely some secret ingredients at work here. A small cup costs $20 pesos, a medium is $22, and a large is $25. 

You can also get Elotes, which is the same idea, but instead, the corn is grilled on the cob. They offer a specialty here called ‘dorielotes,’ which covers the corn cob mayo which is rolled in crushed Doritos! The store is also famous for its pan de elote, or cornbread. Unlike American cornbread, which is more of a savoury treat, their cornbread is like a cake. It’s very sweet and absolutely fantastic! It’s a bit dry, so be sure to have a drink on hand.

Mural

Before leaving the market, make sure you stop outside along Highway Congreso de la Unión to see the incredible murals painted along the outside of the Mercado Jamaica. Muralism in Mexico is such a popular thing to see everywhere you go. But the murals outside this market are so enormous, and it’s amazing to see the works of art that span the entirety of the building! There is always a new work of art to discover as they change throughout the year. To the delight of the vendors, everyday shoppers, tourists as well as the drivers who pass by on the highway on their way to work. Murals are truly such an incredible way to liven up a street and bring so much joy to an otherwise blank exterior. Much like flowers, that bring life into an otherwise bland space.

I hope you enjoyed this tour of Mercado Jamaica! It’s honestly one of my favourite markets in Mexico City and well worth the time it takes to get here. Despite being a little out of the way, there is so much to see and do here so you’ll really feel like it’s worth the 20-minute drive from the city centre. Let me know in the comment what your favourite market is either in Mexico City or around the world

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Self Guided Tour of Mercado Jamaica, the Best Flowers Market in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

There has never been anything I’d been so quick to review. During my most recent stay in Mexico City, I was travelling solo. Whenever I’m alone, I love to join a group tour. While I do personally enjoy my solitude, I also enjoy meeting new people and getting to experience new adventures with others. I knew a food tour was in order, as I think there is no better way to get to know someone than having a meal with them! But it took me a while to find a tour that really piqued my interest. But then I found Eat Like a Local.

About Eat Like a Local

Eat Like a Local is a female-owned Mexico City Food Tour company that strives to be one of the best in sustainable tourism. It pays its female-only employees a proper wage and supports female-owned businesses in the market places. Plus, part of the tour price helps young girls go to school to learn to speak English. Providing them with a rich education that sets them up to succeed and grow. Any extra money the tour company earns goes towards sending some of the girls to go on a trip of their own. Anywhere around the world. Allowing them to see the same world of travel, they help tourists experience in their own city.

Giving back to the Community

The company even uses part of the tour price to support the infrastructure of the marketplaces. Helping to improve them. So many tours I saw listed seem to use the marketplaces as a tourist attraction. These tours don’t actively view the marketplace as a real place of work and community. While eating inside the marketplace is great to support the individual businesses, supporting the infrastructure where they work is a sign of a true venture into sustainable tourism. So with all that in mind, and a promise of some truly phenomenal street food, I booked my ticket and joined the tour.

The Best Foor Tour in Mexico City!

1. About Eat Like a Local
2. The Tour Details
3. The Overall Experience
4. La Condesa
5. Taking the Metro
6. Jamaica Market
7. La Merced Market
8. Juarez Gelato Shop

The Tour Details

Cost

Eat Like a Local offers three different food “safaris” for you to choose from. Each one costs $115 USD. This covers all the food you’ll eat on the tour as well as your transportation. I opted for the Mexican Food 101 tour as it seemed to cover the widest variety of food. They also have a Flower Market and Mezcal tasting tour but since I don’t drink very much I thought that one might not be for me. There is also a street food at night tour that I really can’t wait to check out next time I’m in town!

When you book, you’ll only pay half of the total tour price online via their website. The other half you MUST pay in CASH upon meeting the guide. They use this cash to pay for the food along the way. So it’s essential to bring the right amount of money when you arrive at the meeting point. Don’t think you can just stop at the ATM after the tour is over.

How Big is the Tour

Like any good tour group, the size of the group is small. This means you have a much more intimate experience. But with the guide and the rest of the group. I cannot stress enough how the five of us felt like old friends by the end of the day. I even knew all their kids’ names! Small tour groups really are a sign of a great experience to come.

How Long is the Tour?

The entire tour lasted about four hours. In that time we covered a lot of ground (thanks to hopping on and off the metro.) They say that you’ll walk about 4.5 miles throughout the tour. I loved all the walking as it really helped make room for more food! Dress comfortably, and wear good walking shoes. Be sure this means closed-toe shoes since the marketplaces can get wet.

A Note about Safety

When booking the tour, one of the things that both intrigued, excited and made me a bit nervous was the fact we would travel via the metro. I had long wanted to experience taking the metro in Mexico City. But after hearing so many stories about how dangerous it was, I was always hesitant. But my tour guide Panda made the experience fear-free and super explanatory for future trips. The metro was so efficient and I never felt unsafe. And aside from drawing attention to ourselves as a group of loud English speakers on a tour, I don’t think anyone would have given us a second look.

I was careful to bring only my phone with me and kept it in a bag with an internal zip when required. Panda was great about letting us know when we should be more careful. Just like any big city, some areas are more prevalent with pickpockets. The largest market in Barcelona is a huge hot spot for pickpockets, so don’t think it’s just CDMX. I never felt the least bit afraid anywhere we went on the tour. So don’t let their overly cautious advice put you off! Use common sense, leave your large camera at home and don’t wear or bring anything flashy. Our tour guide also took lots of pictures and even emailed them to us afterwards. So if you wanted to just leave everything at home, and immense yourself, you’ll still get lots of souvenir pictures to take home.

Accessibility

This tour might be challenging if you’re travelling in a wheelchair or have issues with accessibility. Both are due to the distance covered and the lack of accessible entrances in various parts of the marketplace. But, you can absolutely reach out to the tour company directly to book a private tour. They do lots of private tours and they will be able to curate a specific tour just for you.

Bathrooms

I am definitely someone who has a small bladder, so bathroom breaks are always imperative for longer tours. There were plenty of stops along the way for bathrooms. Don’t hesitate to ask if you need to use one. Most of the bathrooms inside the marketplace cost 5 pesos to enter, so bring a bit of change to use them. Our guide also had some coins for those who didn’t have any on them.

Dietary Restrictions

The tour states they can accommodate all different dietary restrictions, including vegetarian and gluten-free. Be sure to let them know in advance. This way, they can ensure something will be available for you at every stop. We had a vegetarian with us on our tour, and it was so fun to see all the different alternatives to our dishes. He definitely had to skip one of two stops but there were plenty of options at most places. And honestly, there is so much food on tour, missing out on one or two places might actually be a good idea!

The Overall Experience

Their website lists all the different types of food you’ll taste along the way, so I’m not giving anything away by detailing my experience here. I wanted to share the wonderful stories from my experience as a means to encourage those travelling to Mexico City to book a tour for themselves. But also as a way for those who read my blog to feel immersed in another world to travel along with me. Even if they can’t go themselves. Even if I did give you step-by-step instructions on where to go, you’d never be able to explore these places for yourself. There are too many hidden secrets and tiny sellers that only locals can guide you to.

La Condesa

We met up in La Condesa to start the tour off right with a coffee! This gave us all a chance to meet each other and get to know our guide. Our guide, Panda, was one of the most hilarious and fun people I’d ever met. From the minute she starting she felt like an old school friend and had us all smiling from ear to ear. After grabbing our coffees, we needed a little sweet treat. So we set out for pastries! We stopped at a Condesa institution which sells concha (sweet bread.) The perfect starter to get our stomachs prepped.

Tacos de Canasta

Next, we explored two different street food stalls in La Condesa. One was selling the classic breakfast staple Tacos de Canasta, aka sweaty tacos. These tacos are made by filling a taco with stew and bathing them in oil or butter. They are then layered up inside baskets and sold all over the city. Sometimes on the back of bicycles, but in this case at a street food stall.

The man working here had been selling them for over 35 years!! He is so popular that he made enough money selling these tacos to be able to send his kids to university! Here you had the options of a variety of fillings, from pork to potato and chicharron. Once you pick your filling, you could smother them in hot sauce. I was so surprised by how delicious they were. I had never tried tacos de canasta before because I thought they’d be soggy. But that wasn’t the case at all! I could have honestly eaten a dozen. But knew I had to save room in my stomach, as this was only our second stop!

Mixiotes

The next stop was tacos mixiotes. Mixiotes are made from stewing meat inside an agave leaf bag. The meat was so flavourful, seasoned with a mixture of all different chillies. This stand had almost a dozen other toppings you could add to your taco. I wanted to really savour the flavour of the meat, so I just went with a few slices of nopales (cactus) pads. And, of course, a squeeze of lime and hot sauce.

It was about now that I realized I would never be able to finish everything we sampled at this rate. As much as I wanted to because everything we ate was delicious. Thankfully, Panda, our guide, stepped in and told us no one would be offended if we didn’t finish. And we could split what we could share, or she could ask the vendor for a smaller portion. I felt so relieved as I’m always so worried that my small stomach and inability to always finish what’s on my plate is apt to offend the cook!

Taking the Metro

After this stop, we hopped onto the metro at Baldera station. I had been pretty nervous about riding the metro. But from the minute we descended down into the station, I realized how perfectly normal and unintimidating it was. All your tickets are paid for upon entering, but Panda took us through how to buy your tickets and use the system in case you want to ride the metro on your own after the tour.

The metro platforms were incredibly clean and actually super pretty to look at. The floors and walls were made of beautiful stone that looked like the station were carved out of the ground. While we were on tour, the metro was fairly empty, only getting busy near mid-afternoon. Most of the time, we could all get seats with no problem. When the cars were super full, we simply waited for the next train. They come very frequently so we had no trouble getting enough space and feeling safe. Interesting to note that there are also female-only train cars. These are marked on the floor of the station platform with pink signs marked with “Solo Dames y Menores de 12 Anos.”

Jamaica Market

The next stop on tour was inside Jamaica Market! Although you might read the word “Jamaica” and think of the country, Jamaica actually means “hibiscus flower” in Spanish. The Jamaica Market is home to the largest flower market in the city, with over 1,150 stalls selling over 5,000 different varieties of flowers! Almost all of them grown around Mexico.

The market is divided into two different areas; the first is almost devoid of flowers entirely and primarily sells produce, meat and other grocery staples. When you cross over to the second section of the market, you’re immediately overwhelmed with the smell of flowers. Before you can even see the flowers, you’ll know you’ve arrived.

Tacos Carnitas & Tepache

Our first stop was at a long communal table right at the market entrance. Pig heads hung in the butcher shops down the aislse, and you knew right away this was the place to get pork! The order was simple, tacos de carnitas, topped with raw onions and cilantro. While I thought I’d had carnitas before, after tasting this, it felt like I had never eaten them before in my life. This was the best-tasting taco I’ve ever eaten, and I still dream about it! While we were eating, Panda explained to us the myths about why you are almost always given two tortillas with every serving of tacos. But I’ll leave that tidbit for you to discover on tour…

To pair with our tacos, we got to sample tepache. Tepache is a fermented pineapple drink made from the peel and the rind of pineapples and refined cane sugar. It had that tang you get from other fermented drinks like kombucha. It was super sweet but so delicious and definitely cleansed the palette from the fatty pork tacos. The perfect combination!

Jicaleta

Next up, we walked around the market to the brightly coloured bins of what looked like powdered sugar. Beside these pins were huge round discs on popsicle sticks that looked like white lollipops with the words “Rico Jicaleta.” I have seen these signs all over the city and always wondered what they were! It turns out the giant thing on a popsicle stick is a Jicama, a root vegetable.

To convince kids to eat their vegetables, someone came up with the genius idea to cover the jicama with chamoy (pickled plum with chile sauce) and then dip the veggie in powdered sugar. Since the jicama is pretty neutral in its flavouring it allows itself to be the vehicle for these amazing flavours of powered sugar. Everything as simple as strawberry or blueberry to more exciting flavours like mango chilli and tamarind. You can even use the other colours to create a cool rainbow-like pattern on the jicama. I can see why these are such a popular treat with both kids and adults.

Piñata Market

Next up on tour, we walked deeper into the marketplace amongst hundreds and hundreds of piñatas. The Jamaica market is known for its huge piñatas selection. Design range from traditional stars to cartoon characters. And I even saw a covid one! What a perfect thing to bash away at, a way of taking out all the pent up frustration over the loss of the last two years.

Chorizo Verde

Sitting down outside a small shop beside piles of bright fruits and vegetables, we tried what I thought was the most incredible taco innovation of the whole tour; green chorizo! The proud owner displayed all his different types of chorizo sausages outside the shop. But none were as eye wateringly delicious to look at as the green chorizo. The pork-based sausage is mixed with a blend of fresh green veggies like spinach and lettuce. Then zesty green herbs are added to ramp the flavour up. Anything from cilantro, thyme, marjoram, whatever is in season.

After this they add green chillies (because heat is a staple of the chorizo sausage) and the most important and unique ingredient – NUTS! Yes, that’s right, they add anything from peanuts to pumpkins seeds or almonds to the meat. We ate it completely plain to start to ensure we could appreciate the flavour of all the ingredients. And OMG, I cannot explain how incredible this was. Truly one of the most unique and surprising parts of the tour. I wish I could remember where this was so I could go back to eat more!

Heading down to the other side of the market, we stopped at a few more stalls for some tiny samples as we went. Crispy tortillas covered in locally made crema y queso (cream cheese) and a bite of chicharrón (deep-fried pork skin).

Fresh Fruit Stalls

On the other side of the market, where the smell of flowers filled the air, we stopped for a selection of fresh fruit. The fruit was just what the doctor ordered to change things up and refresh my palette. I always admire the beautiful spreads at these fruit stands when I pass by. So many different fruits I’ve never tried, let alone seen before. Lucky for me, when we stopped, the friendliest man came out from behind the piles of fruit with these little banana leaf trays. Inside were slices of all kinds of fruits. Panda took us through what each bite was, and we dove in.

My taste buds were exploding. I couldn’t believe how delicious some of these fruits were, things I’d never tried before, which set my mouth alight. My favourite by far was the Soursop, which was tangy, sweet, and, as the name indicates, sour. I need to find this in Toronto! And my other favourite was the black zapote, which tastes like chocolatey permission pudding! The Chirimoya blew my mind as it tasted like a strawberry blended with a kiwi. I was truly entranced by all the flavours and vowed to make more of an effort to buy fresh fruit next time I’m in town.

Wholesale Flowers

Walking around the flower market was the best kind of chaos. We didn’t have a ton of time to admire the flowers; this is a working market, after all. People were milling about, grabbing carfuls of flowers for their stands in the city and small bouquets for their homes. Voices cried over one and other as people haggled for the best price.

During the Day of the Dead ceremonies, this market is packed to the rooftops with trucks full of orange Mexican marigolds. These are the most popular flower synonymous with the festival. They are used to decorate the ofrendas of past loved ones as the brightly coloured flowers are thought to guide the spirits of those who have passed back home.

As we moved through the crowds of people, we arrived at the back, where the larger floral displays are located. These are for celebrations like communions and quinceaneras in addition to funerals and weddings. But apparently, one of the most popular reasons people buy huge floral displays is to apologize for cheating on their wives…or at least that’s what Panda told us! The bigger the arrangement, the more sorry you are!

Esquites

The next stop on tour was for a cup of esquites fritos. Esquites are fire-roasted corn kernels, stewed in lard, and mixed with aromatic herbs and arbol chillies. I’ve had esquites many times before, as they are one of my favourite street snacks, but none as delicious as the ones we got here! There are definitely some secret ingredients at work here.

Before leaving the market, we stopped at a tortilla maker cranking out hundreds of perfect corn circles every hour. There is genuinely nothing more fresh than eating a hot tortilla right off the press. With nothing more than a sprinkle of salt, you can really appreciate how simple and complex the flavours are. And why this tiny disc has become such a staple of Mexican food throughout the centuries.

La Merced Market

After a quick bathroom break, we hopped back on the metro. We transferred from the teal line (#4) to the pink line (#1) and made our way directly into the Mercados de la Merced. Mercados de la Merced, or La Merced Market, has its own dedicated metro stop. And unlike other metro stations where you need to exit onto the street to get to your next destination, this stop exits right into the heart of the market. This is actually the only way you should enter the market. The exterior streets around here are a little dangerous but by entering directly inside, you avoid the exterior entirely.

History of the Market

La Merced Market is named after the monastery of Nuestra Señora de la Merced de Redención de Cautivos. The monastery was established here in 1594, just after the Spanish Conquest. The neighbourhood that sprang up around the monastery also goes by the name La Merced. After the conquest, this part of the city, being just on the outskirts (before the expansion of what is now CDMX), was a hotbed for traders. They would arrive here from all different parts of the country and beyond. They could easily dump their goods here for sale and transfer further into the central part of the city.

By 1860, almost the entire neighbourhood was one big market. So the city decided to move the marketplace into a permanent, covered building. By now, the old La Merced Monastery has been closed down for years. But the empty building proved to be the perfect place to establish the new permanent market.

20th Century Market

In the 20th century, the market continued to expand becoming one of the largest wholesale markets in the city. Here you can find everything from fruit, vegetables, meat, poultry, toys, clothes, flowers, candy and more.

Sadly, there is a dark history to the building as well. In 1988 a fireworks stall exploded inside the marketplace, killing more than 60 people! Then again, in 1998, there was another fire due to faulty wiring that destroyed much of the old main hall and 572 stalls. Luckily no one was killed in that fire, but the damage was extensive. Despite the accident occurring almost 20 years ago, repairs are still ongoing.

Just in front of the entrance to the market from the metro station, you’ll see a cheerful cartoon map of the marketplace. Each different section of the market is dedicated to a different specialty, so you know exactly where to go for what. I was immediately drawn to the candy section and was delighted to hear we would be stopping in there near the end of the tour.

Insects

Our first stop inside the market threw us right into the deep end of Mexican cuisine, at the Insectos stand. Yes, that’s right, bugs! I actually really like bugs as food; I’ve had them a few times around the world and find the flavour pretty interesting. If you don’t want to try them, just politely say no. Don’t make a big show of being grossed out or anything like that. Insects have been eaten and used in cooking here for centuries. It’s disrespectful to act disgusted by a kind of food they consider pretty normal.

I do recommend trying them at least once. And when you stop here at the stall, they also give you a glass of freshly pressed pineapple juice to chase down the bugs. In case it’s just not for you. My favourite was the crickets, but I was actually surprised how much I liked the little worms! The scorpion was the least tasty, a little too earthy for my liking, but I’m sure it would be great in other dishes.

Micheladas

We walked through the crowds of stalls towards the outer edge of the market, along Rosario street. Despite being a working street, with cars and lorries driving through, it also feels like an extension of the marketplace. Stalls pour out onto the streets with their wares leaning out so far they almost touch either side of the road. It’s so tight that often when a big truck comes thru, some stores need to move things they’re selling back inside to allow the cars to pass. It’s a very cool bit of choreography to watch.

We took a seat inside a casual bar where we gathered around a large table, welcomed by the smiles of the locals. Then we were given a series of brightly colours bowls, jars and glass bottles, like a modern-day apothecary in the centre of Mexico City. We were greeted by the amazingly kind Arely, one of the girls from the 80IQ program. 80IQ is a program created by the Eat Like a Local founder that funds the education of these young women and where they also receive mentoring.

With her adorable son in tow, Arley came to our table to practice speaking English and teach us to make a Mexican Michelada. Micheladas are such a fun beverage to make and we loved learning all the steps and ingredients that go into it! First, cover the rim in chamoy and dip in caramelized sesame seeds. Next, add more chamoy, Worcestershire, and hot sauce then filled the glass with a cold beer! Since I don’t drink beer, so I was given a glass of fizzy pineapple juice, and let me tell you mixture was just as delicious!!! We took this chance to enjoy our cold drinks, a refreshing break from the heat of the day. We grabbed for a bit, chatting with Arley and even celebrating an anniversary in our little group!

Quesadillas

From here, Arley handed us over to Wendy, another girl from the program. Wendy spoke incredibly well at only 14 years old and was such a great guide! She took us to her grandmother’s street food stall, where a series of women bustling around a hot comal. They went about serving us bite-size pieces of a variety of classic Mexican street food samples.

Huitlacoche

The one I was most excited about trying were the quesadillas. Although this might not seem very exotic, the filling inside the quesadilla was ‘huitlacoche‘ or, as it is known in English, corn smut! Huitlacoche is considered a delicacy in Mexico, even though it might not seem very appetizing. The word comes from the Nahuatl language and means “sleeping excrescence,” because the corn is transformed by a fungus that impedes them from developing. Thus, they remain “sleeping.” If the fungus doesn’t sound appealing to you, I’d ask, “well, have you ever eaten mushroom?” because the flavour is essentially the same. I couldn’t believe how complex the flavour was, and I was so happy I had finally been able to sample it! 

Pambazo

We also got quesadillas with squash blossoms filled with cheese from Oaxaca. Then there was a slice of tlacoyo filled with black beans and covered in requeson (like ricotta cheese) and more nopales. The last item on the place was Pambazo. The pambazo sandwich is apparently the most authentic Mexico City street food. One that originated here. It is made from a white bun that has been dipped in adobo sauce and then filled with chorizo, cheese, cream and lettuce.

Candy

After all this, I thought there was no way I’d ever be able to get up. But somehow, we shuffled out of the tiny chairs outside the street food stall and bid a sad farewell to Wendy’s family. They waved goodbye to us with big smiles as we headed back into the crowded marketplace. But I perked up as we learned we were on our way to the candy district. There are many reasons I love Mexico City, but one of them has got to be their love of bulk candies. You can find little carts wheeling around the neighbourhood every day. Filled with candy fills at the ready for your cravings. But here in the marketplace must be where they all come to load up these carts every morning.

Candies exploded out of bins and baskets in rainbow colours everywhere we looked. We sampled a few unique varieties like dried mango with chilis, tamarind candies, spicy candied almonds and, of course, lots and lots of flavoured powdered sugar. My favourites are these little fruit-shaped gummies that look like they are made of glass. Almost too pretty to eat! I could honestly have been here for hours, but I was too full to try anything more, lucky for my blood sugar.

Juarez Gelato Shop

To arrive at our last stop on tour, we hopped once more on the metro and made our way over to the Juarez neighbourhood. This part of town is just starting to become a new hot spot for hip eateries. We stopped at one of the chicest gelato shops, where we were greeted by flavours out of this world. Tamarind & mezcal, Oaxacan chocolate, cempasúchil (marigold), tonka bean, olive oil, lavender, and even epazote elato leaf are just some of the falvours that are on rotation here. We got to sample any three flavours we wanted. Although I had felt like I couldn’t eat another bite earlier, there seems to always be a second stomach for dessert.

This was our last stop, so we all just sat around chatting while eating our ice cream. None of us wanted to leave. We had all really become friends by the end of the day. Panda gave us all her recommendations based on the questions we asked along the way. After much hesitation, we all eventually parted ways! Leaving with full bellies, smiles on our faces, and lots of stories to share with our friends and family. The perfect end to the perfect tour.

To Tip or Not to Tip?

Tipping is always a considerate thing to do at the end of a tour just as at the end of a meal. It’s a way to say “thank you” to the guide for their time, effort and expertise. While it’s not required, it is appreciated. Don’t feel the need to financially burden yourself but honestly, even a little bit goes a long way to show your appreciation.

I truly can’t say enough good things about this tour and I really hope if you get the chance to visit Mexico City you put booking this Mexico City Food Tour with Eat Like a Local at the top of your list!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Best Street Food Tour in Mexico City! first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Launceston is untouched by mega-tourism and has a unique landscape only found in this part of the country. Launceston to me felt like a combination of New Zealand’s rich scenery and Australia’s vibrant culture. If you’re a tourist who wants to get off the beaten track and get a little peace and quiet, then Launceston is the place for you.

Table Of Contents

1. History
2. Access
3. Best Time to Visit
4. What to Pack?
5. Where to Stay
   • Launceston Backpackers
   • Kurrajong House
   • Hatherley Birrell Collection
6. What to do in Launceston
   • 1. Sweetbrew 
   • 2. Eat the Day Away at the Harvest Farmer's Market
   • 3. Explore Cataract Gorge
   • 4. Get up High on the Gorge Scenic Chairlift
   • 5. Wonder at the Works inside Queen Victoria Museum & Art Gallery
   • 6. Discover the old Craftsmanship inside the Old Umbrella Shop
   • 7. Indulge in Fine Dining at Stillwater
   • 8. Go Back in Time inside Franklin House
   • 9. Sip on Aged Ales at James Boag Brewery Experience
   • 10. Get Spooked on Launceston City Ghost Tours
   • 11. Wander down Memory Lane on a Self Guided History Walk

History

Launceston, located on the northern tip of the state of Tasmania, is one of their two main cities. The other being Hobart, located on the southern end. Launceston is Australia’s third oldest European settlement, established in 1806 after Sydney (in 1788) and Hobart (in 1803). The city is renowned for its well preserved historic buildings, artful food scene and lush countryside.

While I highly enjoyed visiting both Hobart and Launceston, and each had its own pros and cons, Launceston felt more in line with my creative travel sensibilities. The city streets were more artful, their parks lusher. The overall design seemed to be of the utmost importance, even if a bit dated. Like other Australian cities, Launceston features a thriving coffee scene, great food, excellent hikes and an intimacy with the natural environment that you wouldn’t expect from a big city.

Access

The best way to get to Launceston is by plane. A short flight from Sydney, Melbourne, or Brisbane will land you just 15 minutes outside the city’s centre. While renting a car is advisable to see the rest of Tasmania, we didn’t find that one was necessary at all for our time inside the confines of Launceston’s city centre and outer boroughs.

Best Time to Visit

Launceston and Tasmania, in general, is noticeably colder than the rest of Australia. Don’t come here without checking the weather! We saw a few people step off the plane in shorts and t-shirts in a climate that was more suitable for a winter coat.

From November to March are the best months to travel when the weather is at its most enjoyable. June, July and August are relatively chilly and rainy. Still, the prices of hotels are significantly discounted, and the city is almost empty! Summer is the peak travel season when you’ll find the hotels to be the priciest.

Whereas international travellers might not find their way to Tasmania, local Australians have been frequenting the island more and more, so be sure to check the dates of any Australia holidays or school breaks as these times may also be much busier and more expensive.

What to Pack?

As mentioned above, you might be surprised to see how different the weather is here compared to Australia’s arid deserts and beachy coasts. So much of Tasmania is made up of cool temperate rainforests. In addition to your regular travel essentials, there are a few critical items to bring to Launceston and Tasmania. It’s crucial to pack lots of layers that will help you keep warm in the morning, but which you can shed after a few hours of hiking which warms you right up!

It’s also essential to pack a good raincoat or waterproof windbreaker, which can be super useful since rain is a frequent visitor to Tasmania’s forecasts. The rainforests can get pretty wet. Umbrellas are also a good thing to pack in your bag for extra protection.

Where to Stay

When planning my stay in Launceston, I was so excited to find that almost every single home and hotel listed on Tripadvisor was over 4-stars. This meant that you could throw a dart and end up at a fantastic hotel. Everyone we met was so happy to see us, so proud of their city and more than willing to help us out in any way they could. Whether it was picking us up from the airport or showing us around town, Launceston’s residence were always going over and above our expectations.

Launceston Backpackers

We stayed at the Launceston Backpackers, a lovely old house renovated to hold guests. It felt more like staying in someone’s cottage rather than a hotel. I loved the architecture, the stained glass, the old furniture, pretty much everything. It was super affordable and right in the centre of town meaning we could easily walk from place to place without ever having to get on a bus or rent a car.

Price: $47 USD/night

Kurrajong House

Kurrajong House offers accommodation to adult-only guests who enjoy a quiet and tranquil stay. The house is a heritage property that has been lovingly restored. You can choose to stay in either their Heritage guest rooms within the main house or one of two courtyard rooms that overlook their small garden. They are located in Launceston’s luxury end and a short 5-minute walk to the city.

Price: $108 USD/night 

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Hatherley Birrell Collection

Hatherley Birrell Collection is a boutique hotel offering a high-end experience with some of the most exceptionally stylish rooms. With four unique spaces to stay in Hatherley Birrell Collection leaves your soul enriched and your creativity inspired during your stay in Launceston!

Price: $170 USD/night

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I’m back in Tasmania, first stop Launceston and the east coast (where I grew up). Next time you’re in Tas or plan a special trip, do yourself a favour and check in at @hatherleybirrellcollection (^ is part of their property) – my aunty and uncle have worked on every detail of their unreal boutique B&B #hatherleybirrellcollection #spring #time #boutique #art #north #tasmania

A post shared by Monique Hodson-Smith (@mhsnutrition) on Sep 7, 2018 at 8:41pm PDT

What to do in Launceston

1. Sweetbrew 

The first thing to do in the morning is to grab yourself a cup of coffee! Australia is known for its incredible coffee culture, and Tasmania is no different. Sweetbrew is a local hangout for hipsters and tourists alike. Every coffee is perfectly crafted, and their summer berry cake is something I’ll remember forever!

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2. Eat the Day Away at the Harvest Farmer’s Market

For breakfast, head on down to the Harvest Saturday Farmers Market. Stock up on some doughnuts from @sandyssourdough and if you’re craving something savoury, hit up a gluten-free breakfast bowl from @mountgnomonfarm.

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Don’t leave without a bottle or two of manuka honey from Tasmania, something which is sure to cure what ails you. Even if you don’t have a kitchen at your hotel, this is the best place to load up on cheese, freshly cured meats, hot-smoked salmon, fresh berries and fruits and hot from the oven bread. This all makes for a super simple picnic luncheon to enjoy later on in the day.

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A post shared by Harvest Launceston (@harvest_launceston) on Feb 27, 2020 at 2:41am PST

3. Explore Cataract Gorge

And where to eat your picnic lunch, you may ask? There’s no better place than Cataract Gorge! Cataract Gorge is a stunning park in the centre of Launceston. To get to the gorge, you begin by walking along a scenic pathway, called the King’s Bridge-Cataract Walk. This leads you around the South Esk River’s edge to the northern part of the gorge’s basin. From here, you can walk across the Alexandra Suspension Bridge. On the other side of the bridge, you’ll find a large swimming pool to be enjoyed in the summer months.

4. Get up High on the Gorge Scenic Chairlift

I found the best part of our visit to the gorge was getting to ride the antique chairlift! The chairlift, built in 1972, and is still the longest single-span lift in the world! We were one of the only people in the park during our visit and figured the lift wouldn’t be open. But to our surprise, a quiet old woman was sitting at the desk to welcome us in and let us ride. It felt almost strange like they had kept it open just for us. We giggled the entire way across the gorge, swinging our feet, nervously laughing as the chairlift climbed higher and higher. The chairlift covers 457 metres and moves pretty slowly for you to really take in the scenery around you.

When you get off the chairlift, you can explore the landscaped Victorian garden and small cottage restaurant on the other side of the basin. You’ll find unusual Tasmanian flora and fauna, including ferns, exotic plants, and even wild peacocks.

The trip costs $9 USD for a one-way ticket or $12 USD for an “Across & Back” ticket. We opted for the one-way sine we enjoyed the walk back to the entrance. The lift is open every day from 9am, 365 days a year! In the winter it closes at 4:30 pm, in the Spring and Autumn it closes at 5 pm and in Summer from 5:30 pm to 6 pm.

5. Wonder at the Works inside Queen Victoria Museum & Art Gallery

If you’re visiting Launceston, you should take some time to admire some local and National Australian art. I found that Australia has such a distinct fine art style and something completely unique compared to European or even American art. My favourite part of this museum was the Tasmanian art collection from the colonial era to the present day. Their gallery even has a focus on Tasmania’s convict history and the strange and powerful art produced by the prisoners.

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6. Discover the old Craftsmanship inside the Old Umbrella Shop

Launceston’s historic streets look as though they have been preserved in amber from the late 19th century. While other Australian cities, even in Tasmania, have moved along with modernization, Launceston captures the looks and feel of Australias at the turn of the century. One of the oldest shops which is still up and running is the Old Umbrella Shop. Three generations of the same family have produced and repaired umbrellas in this shop since 1860. The umbrellas here are even crafted from local Tasmanian wood. The historic signage out front is the same as it was in the mid-Victorian era. Giving you a glimpse of what this entire street once might have looked like.

7. Indulge in Fine Dining at Stillwater

For one of the best meals, you’ll have on your entire trip, be sure to book reservations in advance at Stillwater Restaurant. Stillwater is located inside a beautifully restored 1830s flour mill. If you’re lucky enough to get a seat with a view, you can soak in the stunning landscape of the Tamar River while you dine.

Stillwater prides itself on focusing on local food, grown by producers all across Tasmania. Their seafood options are my absolutely favourite dishes but their menu changes so often I can’t recommend one in particular. Whatever you choose, you can’t go wrong. Their wine bar is also stacked with Australian wines, which we know, are some of the best producers of wine world-wide. So relax and indulge in some fine dining!

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8. Go Back in Time inside Franklin House

Franklin House gives visitors a glimpse into what life was like for the new colony of Launceston in 1838. It’s Tasmania’s oldest house museum, which has been restored to its original appearance. The house was first built for businessman, Britton Jones. Jones himself was an ex-convict who managed to escape the system and make a new life for himself and his family. It was so exciting to explore the home and discover the original furniture and decor. This allowed us to imagine how all the home here would have looked in years past, like stepping back in time.

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First National Trust house in Tasmania, giving a glimpse of how some lived in early days.

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9. Sip on Aged Ales at James Boag Brewery Experience

Tasmania’s most famous beer is the Boags beer, which is sold worldwide but highly regarded in Launceston where the brewery is located. On the Brewery Tour experience, you’ll learn all about what makes their beer unique, see how its made and learn about the history of this Tasmanian Brewery.

At the end of the tour, you’ll be invited into their bar where you’ll receive a 30-minute guided beer tasting! Here you’ll be able to taste a flight of their brews paired with locally produced cheese! I’ve been to many a beer tasting but never one which included cheese, so that captured my attention straight away (I’m a HUGE cheese lover) and I did think it really gave an interesting spin on the tasting.

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10. Get Spooked on Launceston City Ghost Tours

Ok, now I know ghost tours might seem like something kinda cheesy, but I LOVE them. To me, they are just like a history tour but with a slightly macabre angle. Launceston has a deep and dark convict past. It’s said that some of the prisoners who were sentenced here can still be seen roaming the streets, their ghosts clinging to the mortal world. Walking the old streets of Launceston, your guide will tell tales of the past, making the city’s history come alive. There is both an adult-only and family-friendly option, so there is something for all ages! Obviousy the family-friendly tour is a little less scary so if you spook easily that might be the tour for you.

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11. Wander down Memory Lane on a Self Guided History Walk

Launceston has some of the best colonial and Victorian architecture anywhere in Australia. Cameron street alone perfectly exemplifies what the rest of Australia would have looked like during the boom times of the 19th century. You can do your own self-guided walking tour from Albert Hall in the east to the Queen Victoria Museum and Art Gallery in the west. This tour focuses on specific buildings along the route that tell rich tales of the city’s architectural and social history. There are little plaques along the way to help inform you of the stories as you go. And it’s a great way to explore the city on foot.

While Hobart might be the more famous of the two large Tasmania cities, Launceston is my favourite. It had a quiet charm which I find intoxicating. If you’re looking for a little escape from mainland Australia’s busy beaches and modern cities, Launceston is a great place to come.

Have you ever visited Tasmania? Let me know what you’re favourite part of this island is!

Happy Travel Adventurers!

The post 11 Amazing Things to See and Do in Launceston, Tasmania first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

What’s a tianguis 

A tianguis (tehYAN-gyez) comes from the old Aztec word tianquiztli, which meant the marketplaces. Markets were of the utmost importance in the Aztec culture. The Aztecs built their empire on trade, and the ritual continues to this day in Mexico.

The pink tarps which cover the entire market are actually quite important as they signify that this market is a part of a government-sanctioned program. They ensure the legitimacy of the sellers, which can trade in the tinaguis’. The government-run organization is called the “System of Markets on Wheels” (Sistema de Mercados Sobre Ruedas). It’s named as such since these same vendors have to be mobile and move their shops around the city, wherever the market is open that day.

Opening Times

The Condesa Tianguis market is only once a week, on Tuesdays, which made it even more special that I had just happened upon it. The market runs along Pachuca street from Agustín Melgar Calle south to Calle Juan Escutia. They shut this entire road down from traffic for the day, and it feels like it completely transforms the feeling of the neighbourhood. It changes from just another side street to a lively traditional shopping experience. The market opens at 10 am and closes at 5 pm.

The Condesa neighbourhood has always been one of the more upscale districts in Mexico City. Because of this higher class clientele, don’t expect to find the lowest prices here. But even when they are slightly more expensive, it’s still shockingly cheap! I do find the quality of food and produce here to be somewhat above par as well, so you definitely get more bang for your buck!

Some of the most unique things you’ll find here are sold by the older generations of indigenous women. These women grow their own fruits and vegetables on their farms outside the city. Unlike some of the other vendors who might be buying from more commercial business, they are grown by some rural farmers. The women’s smiling faces are enough to bring you right up to their stalls to take a closer look at their fantastic produce.

Produce on Sale

Unlike the supermarkets which seem to carry everything no matter the season, the fruits and vegetables available here change based on the season. The very best products to get each season is as follows:
Summer: Mangoes, Tomatoes and Tomatillos, Corn, avocados, Pitaya
Fall: Corn, Apples, Pumpkin Black sapote, Prickly pear, Passionfruit
Winter: Apples, Pumpkin, criollo avocado, Mamey, Black sapote, Jicama, Prickly pear
Spring: Mamey, Jicama, Passionfruit
Year-Round: Nopales, chillies,

Clothing and Household Goods

These markets sell more than just produce though. You’ll find anything from bras to makeup, kitchen products and more! You really never know what you going to find! It’s a one-stop-shop for locals, no need to go to the grocery store at all. I loved seeing all the different things on offer since it felt like a surprise every time you came upon a new section of the marketplace.

Flowers

The flower sellers were some of my favourite stalls. I timidly asked how much a large bouquet of sunset coloured roses was and was blown away when they asked for only 50 pesos ($3 US). Having an Airbnb, we had the space to decorate it with flowers, and so I bought it up!

When I visited earlier in the day, I was the only foreigner there! Everyone seemed very friendly, and my Spanish went a long way with impressing the locals. Later in the day, when we came back for dinner, we did see a few more foreigners. Still, overall, it really felt like a neighbourhood event with locals going about their daily business.

Walking down the aisles, you’ll be offered fresh-cut fruit samples from various sellers. While most of this time, this is to entice you to buy some whole fruit, I never found any of them to be very pushy in making me buy anything I didn’t want. It was great fun to get to try so many different fruits, some of which I’d never even heard of before. The Mamey fruit was my favourite. It was like a combination between a sweet potato and a peach.

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Street Food

One of my favourite things to eat in Mexico city is elote, but here there was something a little different, which was esquite. This dish is similar to elote, but the corn is sauteed with chilli peppers instead of being roasted on the grill. The corn ends up being a little spicer and more straightforward, as it is served without the cheese and mayonnaise. But just as delicious!

Another street food staple is the tlacoyo, fried blue corn cakes stuffed with beans and topped with cheese and nopales. In the early morning, you could really taste how fresh the masa was, most likely being ground that very morning.

Tamales vendors are on either corner outside the market, but the real food can be found in under the white tents. Inside are a dozen or so little food vendors selling tacos, gorditas, flautas and more! Large communal tables are lined with salsas and hot sauce. Grab your favourite dish from any of the vendors and take a seat to see if you can strike up a conversation with your neighbours. One of my favourite things is how inviting the locals are, especially when in a neighbourhood environment. They are so proud and are always so happy to see foreigners visiting.

For dessert, there is nothing better than a cup of fresh fruit. My favourite is the mango, served with chilli and lime. Sweet, salty and spicy! All my favourites flavours!

Fresh Nuts and Candy

If fruits don’t satisfy your sweet tooth, another of my must-buy items are fresh candies and nuts. These brightly coloured products draw your eye in immediately. The gummies are some of the softest and most flavorful I’ve ever tasted! I can not recommend them more. And they each cost only about 20 pesos for a huge bag.

Stumbling upon markets like this is one of the most lovely things about Mexico City. There is always something exciting going on, and even if you’re not looking for it, wonderful places like this just seem to reveal themselves to you!

What has been your favourite moment of happenstance on your last vacation?

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post Discover the Amazing Flavours of La Condesa’s Tianguis Market in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. History
3. #1 Have Breakfast at Café Avellaneda
4. #2 Explore the Old Iglesia de Coyoacán
5. #3 Grab a snack in Hidalgo Plaza
6. #4 Have Lunch in Mercado de Coyoacán
7. #5 Learn about Mexico's Pop Culture at the Museo Culturas Populares
8. #6 Take a Walk in Frida’s Footsteps at La Casa Azul
9. #7 See the spot where Leon Trotsky was assassinated
10. #8 Have a pick me up at Cafe El Jarocho
11. #9 Grab some dessert at Helados Coyoacán
12. #10 Wander the historical Avenida Francisco Sosa
13. #11 Find the Golden Church inside the Parque Santa Catarina
14. #12 Relax under the palm tree in Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
15. #13 Get some fresh air Viveros de Coyoacán
16. #14 See a film Cineteca Nacional

Access

The best way to get to Coyaocan, and our first stop on tour, is by Uber. You can also take the Metro, Line 3 to Coyoacan Station, but the station is a bit of a walk from the main areas of the tour. Ubers, as long as you take them outside of peak rush hour, are only about $5 US from the centre of Mexico City.

History

The village of Coyoacán was founded in the 12th century by the Tepanec tribe. This tribe migrated from the Valley of Mexico and settled themselves in Coyoacán. There they shared a common language, Nahuatl, and mythology with the surrounding villages. Unfortunately, despite the common language and culture, the tribes were not allies for long and for centuries they fought against one and other to conquer the land they controlled.

When Hernán Cortés arrived on their shores in 1519 the Tepanec, who hated the native Mexicas, were more than happy to assist him in his mission to conquer them. When the capital of Mexico was moved to Mexico City, Coyoacán remained a quiet village, outside the influence of such political and commercial urbanization. Even today, they do not suffer from the same urban sprawl as the rest of Mexico City. You can find narrows street filled with charming post-colonial architecture amongst ancient cobblestones and gardens.

#1 Have Breakfast at Café Avellaneda

While many places in Coyoacán open later in the morning, Café Avellaneda opens bright and early at 8 am! While this might be a tad early for some, for us morning people it’s a rare find! This quaint cafe is the perfect place to start your day. Start with one of their featured artisan lattes. Coffee in Mexico City is out of this world! Their selection of fresh-baked goods is superb with sweet cakes decorating their window display, enticing customers to come inside. We opted for a full breakfast and got the chilaquiles verde and the daily special pancakes with season fruits! It was absolutely delicious and I cannot recommend it more.

#2 Explore the Old Iglesia de Coyoacán

The Iglesia De Coyoacán was built between 1520 and 1552. Originally the church and its cloister were run by the Dominican order. But when Hernan Cortes entered the picture, he gave it to the Franciscan parish. Over the years the church has changed its appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. Surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations. The atrium, now the Plaza del Centenario, was once the church’s cemetery. Today walking on these grounds is considered a holy spot as the gravestones are thought to be under the roads and pathways built on top.

The interior is covered in baroque gilded decorations and the ceiling topped with a mindblowing ceiling fresco of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Most of the work was done by indigenous hands, and their artwork is in the process of being preserved and studied. The studies aim to determine what materials were used in creating this vast variety of colours. They want to know how such simplistic elements could achieve the same finesse as the professional supplies used in European constructions.

The Monastery

The monastery is located on the upper two floors surrounding a large courtyard. To this day the original wood beams and decorative work in remains, preserved almost my divine hands from the fires which ravaged the rest of the church. When we visited, there were a large group of locals, praying on their way to work. Religion in Mexico is still very much part of the fabric of everyday life. Unlike some churches in Europe which feel more like a historical relics, these buildings serve a practical purpose as well as being visually appealing.

#3 Grab a snack in Hidalgo Plaza

In the middle of Hidalgo Plaza is a large 20th-century stained glass-topped gazebo. The cupola on top is capped with a bronze sculpture of an eagle from the Mexican flag’s coat of arms. Around the gazebo, especially on the weekends, you’ll find musicians entertaining parties and locals out enjoying the sunshine or relaxing on the benches under the shade of the trees. Children are seen playing in the square, and brightly coloured balloon and toy vendors peddle their wares. There is always someone selling tamales in the morning or street tacos in the afternoon. My favourite street food snack is Elote (corn with mayonnaise, fresh cheese, lemon, salt and chile) or ‘Papas de carrito‘ (potato chips, churritos or fried pork rinds with lemon and salsa). No matter what time of the day, this square is bustling with action.

#4 Have Lunch in Mercado de Coyoacán

The Mercado de Coyoacán has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. The newest part of the structure was built in the 1950s but the original, much smaller, marketplace was where both Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul.

Before entering the interior of the market, stop at the sidewalk entrance on the corner of Malintzin and Ignacio Allende where you’ll find El Jardín del Pulpo. El Jardín del Pulpo translates into ‘The Octopus’s Garden‘ where you can indulge in Coyoacán’s best street seafood. While it might seem a little more expensive than regular street food you’ll be eating such luxuries as lobster, langostino and you MUST give their GIANT shrimp cocktails a try!

Shopping in the Market

Inside the market, I found to have even more exciting vendors than the artisan market. You’ll find colourful Tehuana fabrics, the same as Frida would have worn in her day. There are dozens of flower stands, filling that side of the marketplace with rich aromas. Giant bowls of freshly ground mole powder are on display, take a look at all the different kinds of mole there are. You can find perfume, candles and a plethora of seasonal party decorations which hang from the ceiling making it look like entering a huge party!

But the main reason for visiting this market is to try Tostadaa Coyoacan ! At lunchtime, the lines can get pretty long, but it moves quickly and gives you time to scope out what you want to try. The shtrimp ceviche tostadas with thick slices of avocado to cut the acidity are absolute perfection! If eating raw seafood is a little too adventurous for you, try their famous shredded chicken; simple, moist and flavourful! There are six different eating areas with bar-style seating, so even at the busiest time of day you can almost always find somewhere to saddle up.

El Borrego de Oro

Barbacoa is another traditional dish to try in the Coyacán market. If you’re visiting on a Saturdays and Sundays, find your war to El Borrego de Oro or ‘The Golden Sheep’ stand at the back of the market. The shreds of tender meat atop freshly made tortillas are absolute heaven.

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#5 Learn about Mexico’s Pop Culture at the Museo Culturas Populares

The National Museum of Popular Culture is one of the most vibrant museums you’ll visit anywhere in the world. Rather than old painting or ancient relics, the museum focuses on temporary exhibitions which rotate and change throughout the year. They call themselves a living entity. There is always something new to see. But regardless of what is on exhibition, there will also be items featuring expressions of popular, indigenous and urban cultures. The museum is a great place to come to learn about Mexico’s current culture and art scene. 

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#6 Take a Walk in Frida’s Footsteps at La Casa Azul

What most people come to Coyocan for is the Casa Azul, also known as the Frida Kahlo Museum. The Casa Azul was where Mexican artist Frida Kahlo grew up, became an artist, got married and even died. She lived there with her husband Diego Rivera and together the two of them transformed a simple home into an artists retreat. After her death, the artworks of Frida Kahlo became an international sensation, gaining notoriety more and more as time went on. A hidden genius being discovered after her death, like it so often goes. But Frida herself has become an icon and cultural phenomenon.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art and being able to tour their home exactly as it was when they lived and worked inside it. Throughout the house you’ll see their collections of pre-Hispanic artefacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more. You feel a deep connection with these artists by literally walking in their footsteps, and this is an unmissable experience for anyone interested in art or Frida herself.

#7 See the spot where Leon Trotsky was assassinated

If you’re interested in visiting more of the interiors of Mexico City’s famous residences, you should check out the Leon Trotsky House Museum. Trotsky was a Russian revolutionary, Marxist theorist, and Soviet politician who was expelled from Russia in 1929 fpr his radical beliefs. He sought exile all over the world, but it was Diego Rivera who asked the Mexican government to allow him to come to Mexico City to seek political asylum. Trotsky stayed with Diego and Frida until 1939 when his affair with Frida and disagreements with Diego became too inflamed.

After this, he moved into the house, which is now the Trotsky museum. Unfortunately, Trotsky wasn’t safe in Mexico City for long as he was assassinated in this very house. The house is today left in much the same condition as it was the day he died. In fact, the room where he was murdered still has the books he was reading and papers he was writing strewn about untouched. Walking up to it, it looks like a fortress, complete with tall watchtower where there were once armed guards. You can still see the bullet holes from his assassination attack on the outer walls of the house. Even if you don’t know much about Trotsky, it’s an interesting way to see what life in Mexico City looked like in the 1930s.

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#8 Have a pick me up at Cafe El Jarocho

For a little pick-me-up, head over to Cafe El Jarocho. This place has been serving customers in Coyoacán for 63 years and is a veritable piece of history. It’s an unpretentious coffee shop and a great alternative to just another Starbucks. Give their mocha a try since it’s well-known for being made with traditional Mexican chocolate and some of their locally grown beans.

#9 Grab some dessert at Helados Coyoacán

This ice cream shop across from the park has been serving up traditional flavours of ice cream inspired by the many different fruits which grow only around this part of the country. Don’t recognize the name or a certain flavour? Give it a try! You might be totally shocked to find a new favourite flavour, even if you had no idea what it actually was. This is an especially good treat if you’re visiting on a hot day. Grab a few scoops and relax under the shade of the park nearby.

#10 Wander the historical Avenida Francisco Sosa

Heading over to our next destination, we set out along the Avenida Francisco Sosa. This is my favourite street in the entire city. The street is over 450 years old and connected Coyacán with the village of San Ángel. There are over 60 different buildings along the road which have been honoured by National Institute of Anthropology and History as being historical monuments.

One of the most famous buildings to see is Casa De Diego De Ordaz. It was built in the 18th century, and the facade is decorated in this fantastic Mudejar style which was popular at the time. The most remarkable features of the building are the reliefs made by indigenous people of Coyoacán. Further down the road, you’ll pass the Instituto Italiano de Cultura or Italian Cultural Institute. This building is most recognizable by its red façade with bright white Moorish decorations. It was built between the 17th and 18th centuries and now houses the cultural offices of the Italian Embassy.

#11 Find the Golden Church inside the Parque Santa Catarina

The marigold colour you can spot from afar which dominates this lovely parkette is from the adorable facade of the church of Santa Catarina. This chapel was built for use by the indigenous population in the very early colonial period. If you have the chance to step inside, you’ll find preserved 16th-century ornamental work. You’ll also we able to look on in wonder at s 400-year-old mural. The square around the church is the site of many a celebration, and there is usually remnant of those events still holding onto the sunlight the next morning. A great photo opportunity.

#12 Relax under the palm tree in Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

Across from the park is the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This cultural centre is free to enter and a beautiful place to rest your feet or just explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property. In this public centre, you’ll see people writing essays under the trees, practising dance, learning music, having heated morning meetings!

There is even a little cafe and restaurant if you want to stay and enjoy the space a bit longer. You are free to roam around both inside and out. I loved wandering up and down the different floors of the old house trying to see what I could discover. I found their old kitchen, bathroom and some gorgeous tile work from the 19th century. In the middle of the ground is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple.

#13 Get some fresh air Viveros de Coyoacán

Head north along Calle Salvador Novo towards Avenue Progreso where you’ll head east until you reach the entrance to Viveros de Coyoacán National Park. This 100-year-old park is run by the Secretary of Environment and Natural Resources. The main objective of the park is to grow and then replant different varieties of trees to reforest the entire metropolitan area of Mexico City. Different species of trees are dedicated to specific sectors of the city and walking through here you can learn all about the diverse flora and fauna Mexico is famous for.

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#14 See a film Cineteca Nacional

The Cineteca Nacional or The National Film Archives has 30 different movie theatres housed inside one of the most impressive modern pieces of architecture Mexican architect Michel Rojkind in Coyoacán. Cineteca Nacional often features a variety of different kinds of film programming from National and International projects. It also houses a cafe and a variety of hip restaurants and bars. At night time during the warmer months, there is even an area outside where you can see movies under the stars!

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The post 14 of the Best Places to Visit in Coyoacán to Spend the Perfect Day in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

You’ll visit not only her famous residence, Casa Azul, but also explore a multitude of other significant places. These spots were essential in the formation of her identity and connection to her Mexican heritage. If this is your first time visiting Mexico City, this tour is an excellent method of discovery. Many of her famous locations are located in the heart of neighbourhoods with a variety of other popular attractions.

Tour Itinerary

This tour is divided up into four different sections, each one focusing on a particular area of Mexico City. While it might not be the most chronological journey, it allows you to explore different neighbourhoods around Mexico city cohesively. While a chronological life tour would be better in terms of following her journey, it requires bouncing all over the city. Especially for those who are on a tight schedule, that’s not the best use of your time.

The three different neighbourhoods are the Coyoacán, Historic City Centre, and Xochimilco’t. You can easily add these spots to your existing itinerary. I would advise to only tackle one neighbourhood at a time. Don’t try to fit it all in one go. The last section is a list of museums. These museums will help you get a deeper understanding of Mexican culture, insights about Frida, and art in Mexico. Since these places were not locations Frida really visited they are not part of the essential tour. Although they do add a lot of contextual information if you’re interested in that kind of thing.

Below is a map of the entire walking tour. I have broken up the neighbourhoods into separate maps for easy-to-follow directions.

Frida Kahlo in Coyoacan

1. Tour Itinerary
2. Frida Kahlo Museum
3. Coyoacan Market
4. The Casa de Cortes, Casa Municipal
5. Cantina La Guadalupana
6. Parroquia San Juan Bautista
7. Frida Kahlo Park
8. La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura
9. Jardín Centenario
10. Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
11. Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera's House-Studio
12. Former College of San Ildefonso
13. Biblioteca Pública 
14. Secretaría De Educación Pública
15. Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral
16. The Palacio Nacional
17. Avenue 5 de Mayo
18. Garibaldi Square
19. Palacio de Bellas Artes
20. Alameda Central
21. Museo Mural Diego Rivera
22. La Ciudadela
23. Xochimilco Canals
24. Museo Dolores Olmedo
25. Templo Mayor Museum
26. Museum of Modern Art
27. Museo Nacional de Antropología
28. Mexican Art Gallery | GAM
29. Museo Franz Mayer
30. Museo Anahuacalli

Frida Kahlo Museum

La Casa Azul or “the blue house“, located on Londres Street in Coyoacán once belonged to Frida’s father, Guillermo Kahlo. It was here where she was born. She grew up inside these walls. It was the place where she suffered from illness but also flourished as an artist. Eventually, Frida bought the house from her parents and lived with her husband, Diego. They got divorced and remarried all within these blue walls. And ultimately, it was the place where she would pass away. It was her sanctuary but also her cage. She spent more years inside these walls than perhaps anywhere else in the world. As such, it is one of the most intimate looks into her life that you can experience.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art. They collected pre-Hispanic artifacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more which is still on display. You feel a deep connection with Frida by literally walking in her footsteps. You get to see her inner sanctum and looking at the precious treasures she collected, which represented her passions, her wishes and her dreams. To learn more about the Casa Azul take my self guided tour!

Coyoacan Market

South of Frida’s house is the Coyoacán Market. This market has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. Both Frida and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul. Frida loved to cook, and there are countless recipe books out there that details her favourite recipes. At one time, she was quoted as saying,

“We could not have a child, and I cried inconsolably, but I distracted myself by cooking, dusting the house, sometimes by painting…”

Frida’s Shopping List

Frida would come to these brightly coloured corners of the marketplace to shop for her favourite ingredients, chat with her local shopkeepers and wander around to get inspired for her next creation. This marketplace feels a little more laid back and less modern than some of the ones in the inner city. Exploring it feels like more of an authentic experience to the one Frida would have had herself. Make sure you ask about the mole paste they sell here. Mole was one of Frida’s favourite things to cook and eat, and there are countless varieties here you can buy and taste! See which one if your favourite and bring some of the powdered version home with you to make in your own kitchen!

The Casa de Cortes, Casa Municipal

The Casa de Cortes, on the north side, of the Plaza Hidalgo was where the seat of government was held for many years. And it was here that Frida and Diego were married. Frida’s parents were not a fan of Diego…to say the least. Diego had already been married twice, and his reputation as an unfaithful husband wasn’t a big secret around town. He was also 21 years older than 22-year-old Frida. Her parents protested and begged Diego not to marry her, but the love birds could not be swayed. Her parents referred to the union as a “marriage between an elephant and a dove” since Diego was over 300 pounds, and due to her illnesses, Frida was only a petite 98 pounds.

Frida and Diego’s Marriage

The two were married on August 21st, 1929. Their marriage in city hall was presided by the mayor of Coyaocan, and their witnesses were a hairdresser and homeopathic doctor. Frida wore only a long skirt and simple blouse with a rebozo (shawl) wrapped around her shoulder. She would often wear these in the same way that female revolutionaries wore them during the 1910 revolution when women used the scarves to smuggle guns past government checkpoints. Diego was dressed in a plain grey suit, accessorized with a Stetson hat and a Colt revolver. After their short ceremony, they retreated to their good friend Tina Modotti’s house where the raucous reception was held.

It was recorded that after the wedding, during their reception, Diego took the colt revolver and shot it off aimlessly in a drunken stupor. Frida was none too pleased at this childish behaviour, and it would be the first signs of trouble in paradise for the couple.

Cantina La Guadalupana

Just down the street from the Casa Municipal, you’ll find Frida’s old watering hole, Cantina La Guadalupana. Although the original cantina is now closed, you can still see the old signage out front marking the spot. The building is much unchanged from the days when you’d catch a glimpse of Frida’s richly coloured skirts in the window. The Cantina La Guadalupana was the couple’s bar of choice for drinking tequila under the dim lights and surrounded by bullfighting decor. Frida was quite the prolific drinker for her small size and other than tequila, she would love to drink pulque. Pulque is made from the fermented sap of the maguey plant, native to Mexico. It was a beverage which the ancients Aztecs invented and drinking it made her feel closer to those old gods.

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Parroquia San Juan Bautista

Across the park, stands the imposing shadow of the baroque church that Frida Kahlo attended while she was growing up, Parroquia San Juan Bautista. It is also called the Iglesia de Coyoacán as the church has become the central place of worship in Coyoacán. It was built between 1520 and 1552 and run by an old Dominican order. Over the years the church has changed its appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. But surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations.

The interior, however, is covered in baroque gilded decorations, and mindblowing ceiling frescos of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Frida would have come here as a child and prayed with her parents. You can only imagine how such a richly artistic place would have inspired young Frida’s mind.

Frida Kahlo Park

Seeing as the city is the place of her birth, it seems only right that Frida would have a park dedicated after her. Frida loved the outdoor, and although not everyone can afford to go into the Casa Azul’s garden daily, they can wake their way to Frida Kahlo Park to celebrate the great artistic legacy…or at the very least, walk their dog in a lovely setting. In the centre of the park, you’ll find two large, bronze sculptures of Frida and Diego. Frida is dressed in her classic Tehuana outfit, gazing over at Diego. This park has a very structured layout, the bushes around it perfectly pruned into geometric shapes, slightly resembling Aztec pyramids popping out in the background.

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La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura

Located on the east end of Coyoacán, is La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura. Frida began teaching here in 1942. She hoped that its close proximity to her house would mean she could easily commute to and from and continue to educate Mexico City’s artistic youth. She loved her students and teaching, but her leg was bothering her more and more and eventually, she couldn’t leave the house. Luckily, the students loved her as well, and the dedicated pupils would come to the Casa Azul, where Frida could continue to instruct them. She would always inspire her students to look to Mexican culture for inspiration, instead of being influenced by European trends. While Frida might not have taught here for a long time, the school grounds are a beautiful and inspiring place to explore.

Jardín Centenario

The Jardin del Centenario is the central greenspace in Coyoacan. It is marked by a gorgeous double archway which they call the ‘Arcadas Atrial’ or the ‘Arcos del Jardín del Centenario‘. The gardens were once part of the entrance to the old 16th century Parish Church of San Juan Bautista built during the colonial period. Stone pieces from the original building were woven onto either side of the archway. Take a closer look to see how decorative motifs from that period depict both European and indigenous influence.

This beautiful garden is also where you’ll find a fountain which contains a bronze sculpture of two coyotes, which refer to the borough’s name. The name Coyoacán comes from the Nahuatland word meaning “place of coyotes.” Today you’ll see the symbol of the coyote everywhere you look; on park benches, on street corners and even in flower gardens! On either side of the garden are lush Indian laurel trees which spread out to form a canopy over the walkway below.

Frida in the Park

This delightful park is where a place Frida would frequently come to stroll or celebrate during her life in Coyoacan. It was here where the city would hold parades, festivals and fairs. Diego Rivera’s daughters have written extensively about their time living with Diego and Frida in Coyoacán. They lived with them inside the Casa Azul for two years while they completed college. The Jardín CentenarioIn is featured heavily in their accounts as Frida loved to come there to ride carnival rides and march in parades on any day of festivity and would always bring Diego’s daughters with her. Although Frida could never have children herself, she mothered so many young people along the way, acting as a parental figure any time she got the chance.

Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

The Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles is a cultural centre, free to enter and explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property. Just inside the entrance to the Casa is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple. The house has existed here since 1780, occupied by a variety of different families. It’s no stretch to imagine that the previous owners would have welcomed the famous couple into their garden for a visit or a dinner party from time to time.

Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s House-Studio

Farther west, just outside of Coyoacán in the neighbouring district of San Angel is Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s House-Studio. Frida and Diego had this building custom designed by their friend Juan O’Gorman. The studio was intended to be two separate buildings, connected by a bridge. A way of physically showing the differences between these two artists, who despite all odds, still manage to come together. Diego’s studio is painted off-white and rust-red. Simple, natural colours. Frida’s studio, on the other hand, is painted the same ethereal cobalt blue as her home in Coyoacán. Diego’s house features thin windows along the top of the walls. Frida’s features almost floor to ceiling windows, giving the interior space that indoor/outdoor feeling. The house is separated from the street by a perimeter fence which instead of being made from wood or wrought-iron, is made from stacking rows of tall cacti along the roadside.

Studio-House

The couple lived here from 1934 to 1939. In 1939, they got divorced, and Frida moved home to Casa Azul, leaving Diego to live full time, alone in the studio-house. Even after getting back together, only 9-months later, Frida and Diego kept the studio to use as more workspace. Today the interior of the studio features a lot of Diego Rivera’s work and decor, especially his collection of papier-mâché figures.

The Frida side of the house is pretty bare since most of her treasures moved over to the Casa Azul, but it is still interesting to view the architectural designs from inside. The best part of her studio to explore is her bathroom. It was in here that she was inspired to paint ‘What the Water Gave Me’ while staring down at her feet in the bathtub in one of her fits of depression. The very tub which is portrayed in the painting can be still seen today inside the studio. Frida also painted such iconic images as ‘The eye of the eye‘ and ‘The deceased Dimas’ while she lived at the studio-house.

Former College of San Ildefonso

We begin this part of the tour at the Former College of San Ildefonso. It seems very fitting to start the journey here since it was a place of so many firsts for Frida. This was where Frida first went to college in 1922. There she met some of her best friends, her first boyfriend and, most importantly, first met the love of her life; Diego Rivera. Frida’s father had the utmost confidence in his daughter.

Even after she had spent a good deal of her adolescence homeschooled, due to her polio, he still thought she was a genius. Her father decided to send her to this former Jesuit college, at much expense to the family. She was one of only 35 girls, out of 2000 students who went to the school. But she had always gotten along with boys almost more than she did with girls, so she flourished there. Frida would even be seen wearing men’s clothes to the college from time to time and embraced her more masculine side.

The Creation

At the same time, Frida was at school here, Diego Rivera has been commissioned to paint an enormous mural on the lecture room walls. The painting, called ‘The Creation‘ was Rivera’s first gigantic mural of this kind. It was commissioned by the Mexican government to educate the masses of people who couldn’t read but wanted to learn about history. The mural covers more than a thousand square feet and portrays mythological and religious motifs.

It was here when painting the mural that Frida first laid eyes on Diego. She would sneak in to watch him paint his nude models anytime she could. Diego, although married to Lupe Marin at the time, would frequently be found by Frida in the midst of making love to one of his models. She took it upon herself to even warn the artists if she saw his wife coming. Frida would mock and tease him as he worked, but he saw her as a charming little pest. She would go on and on about him to her friends, and despite their age difference, and would proclaim that one day, she would be his wife and have a child by him. Although the latter would never come to pass, who knew how right she would be about the rest.

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Biblioteca Pública 

Down the street from her college, we find the Biblioteca Pública where Frida would come to study. She would come here to meet up with her schoolmates the ‘Los Cachuchas‘. It was here they would discuss at length the politics of the day and plan their communist rallies. But the library was not just a place of learning for Frida. The library was also where she would spend hours falling in love with her first boyfriend, Alex Gómez Arias. In addition to Alex, she also met a gorgeous female librarian and had her first affair with a woman amongst these books. This relationship caused quite the scandal in the community but was her first foray into exploring her bisexuality.

Secretaría De Educación Pública

Just to the north of the school, is the spot of another one of Diego Rivera’s masterpieces. There are 235 panels in the Secretaría de Educación Pública featuring Diego’s favourite themes of blue-collar workers, and the glorification of all things Mexican. It was here while painting these murals in 1928 that Frida Kahlo would come to see Rivera once more. After her injury from the bus accident, she needed to find a way of making money for her family and art was always something which had interested her.

But Frida didn’t know if her artwork was skilled enough to become an accomplished artist. So she went to ask the one man she admired above all others and whom she knew would tell her the truth. She marched right up to him, her work under her arms, and asked him for an honest critique. He was flabbergasted at her brash attitude and charmed by her confidence. It looks him some time to recognize her as the little pest from years before, but it was here that perhaps Diego first fell in love with Frida.

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Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral

Frida’s mother was a fiercely religious woman. The Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral was right beside where Frida would walk to school every day and as such a part of her daily life. Even though many of Frida’s paintings contain a wide variety of indigenous imagery, she was raised in a Catholic household. Elements of religious iconography can be seen in her pictures, especially in her studies of ex-votos. This church is a beautiful place to explore and discover different references you might compare to some of Frida’s famous portraits. The church itself was built after the Spanish conquest of the Aztec Empire.

The Spaniards decided to build their first church on the site of the Templo Mayor of the Aztec in the city of Tenochtitlan. Stones from the destroyed temple of the Aztecs were used to create the church. And although we now look upon the destruction of that ancient temple as something to morn, it is incredible to stare up at this church and see stones stuck throughout from over 1000 years ago. The construction of the Cathedral began in 1573 and took until 1813 to complete! The enormous cathedral is over 350 feet long and 200 feet wide. This makes it Latin America’s largest and oldest temple.

The Palacio Nacional

The Palacio Nacional or National Palace is an enormous building which stretches out across the Zocalo. While some of the Palace is still used for governmental purposes, the rest of the building is open to the public and filled with incredible gardens, murals, fountains and works of art. But the most meaningful Frida related piece in the palace is the mural by Diego Rivera entitled, ‘The History of Mexico’.

The mural features the history of Mexico from pre-Columbian ancient times to the 1930s. Rivera painted the mural between 1929 and 1935. Key events in the mural feature stories like the Spanish conquest, the colonial period, the Independence movement, and the 1910 Revolution. The right side of the mural is a chronological study of the indigenous Aztecs before colonization.

The left side of the painting is less chronological, featuring smaller groups of stories about Mexico’s Independence. Along the bottom of the mural on the left is the portrait of Frida Kahlo, her iconic monobrow making her easily distinguishable from the others. She looks over a young boys shoulder at his book and is seen wearing a necklace with the communist star. In front of her, dressed in a red, is Cristina, Frida’s sister, holding open a copy of the Communist Manifesto. Years later, Diego would have an affair with Cristina, so seeing the two women here together, years before these dramatic events would unfold feels slightly foreboding.

Avenue 5 de Mayo

Walk along Avenue 5 de Mayo, towards our next destination. While the pedestrian street Avenue Francisco Madero is more popular, I always find it’d packed with tourists and people hawking flyers. In addition to this, the stores are all American brands which don’t feel as authentic to Mexico City. Walking along the street, you’ll see that many of these shops are incredibly old.

There are dozens of stores along the way that Frida herself might have popped her head in while she worked in the city. During her adolescence, she would come into the historic centre to work both in her father’s studio or at other artists’ workshops. Frida worked as an artist apprentice in the city, where she had her first affair with a married man. All of this before the age of 18. These streets filled her life with passion, and that can be seen in her escapades.

Garibaldi Square

Plaza Garibaldi is known as the home of mariachi music. Throughout the day, you’ll find mariachi bands playing all over the square. Frida herself loved coming here. She would bring her friends and family here anytime there was a celebration or holiday. She adored dancing to the music and often took part singing songs with the band members.

NOTE: Due to it’s proximity to the dangerous neighbourhood of Tepito, this area should be visited with caution, during the daylight hours. In recent years the city has taken many precautions to help with the safety concerns including increased police presence and the creation of the Bellas Artes-Garibaldi Tourism Corridor. This corridor has improved street lighting as well as the addition of beautiful gardens and sidewalks in the neighbouring streets to help improve the appearance of the area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Palacio de Bellas Artes

Palacio de Bellas Artes and its iconic rainbow stained glass roof are one of the most iconic images of Mexico City. The Palacio de Bellas Artes hosts events in music, dance, theatre, opera and literature and is therefore aptly named the “Cathedral of Art in Mexico”. The exterior of the building is primarily Neoclassical, but inside you’ll discover a plethora of Art Deco and Art Nouveau stylings. On the 3rd floor is Diego Rivera’s famous ‘El hombre en el cruce de caminos‘ (Man at the Crossroads).

This mural was initially painted for New York City’s Rockefeller Center in 1933 but torn down by Rockefeller when Diego refused to paint out the image of Lenin he had sneakily included. Frida’s life in New York City, following Diego around from commission to commission, was such a significant point in her life. Gazing upon this mural, albeit the second version of it, is still such a powerful connection to the couple.

Frida’s Funeral

When Frida Kahlo died, Diego arranged for her body to be laid in state at the Palacio de Bellas Artes. The government agreed, only if they would make it an entirely non-political event. Diego agreed, but unbeknownst to him, one of her students came to pay their respects and after he did, threw a huge communist flag over her casket. The government threated to have her body removed, but Diego refused to let them. He said if they tried, he would carry her dead body in his arm and sit with her on the steps of the palace. Before she died, the last words she wrote in her diary read:

“I hope the exit is joyful – and I hope never to return”.

Alameda Central

One of Rivera’s most famous paintings is the fifty-foot fresco ‘Sunday walk through Alameda Park‘. The picture is currently in the Diego Rivera mural museum, but visiting Alameda Park is an excellent opportunity to take a walk inside of the painting itself. Alameda Park was Mexico City’s first city park and was built on the grounds of an ancient Aztec marketplace. Frida is painted into the mural, wearing the traditional Tehuana dress. She is holding in her left hand the Yin-Yang symbol, which represents duality. Perhaps this is the duality of life, or maybe Diego painted it as a reference to Frida’s dual personality.

Frida is resting her hand on young Diego’s should, like a mother protecting her young one. You can imagine how many times Diego and Frida would have come to this park together, to paint and to relax. Take some time to walk around and even buy some street food snacks to enjoy under the Jacaranda trees which bloom bright purple in the springtime.

Museo Mural Diego Rivera

If you’ve visited the real Alameda Park, then it’s a treat to then see the mural of, ‘Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Central’. Look how closely Diego captured its likeness and the personalities of the people in the park. Despite being called a museum, the Museo Mural Diego Rivera is more of a housing spot for the mural, but the admission is just over a dollar. Originally the mural it was located at Hotel Del Prado. After the devastating 1985 earthquake, the hotel was condemned. Luckily, the mural was saved (in pieces) and moved the museum where it was reassembled.

La Ciudadela

Another iconic destination on the tour of Frida’s Mexico City is to the La Ciudadela marketplace. While this market only opened up in 1968, Frida would have frequented markets like this many times throughout her life in Mexico City. Places like this would have been where she came to purchase folk art, traditional textiles and elaborate, locally-made jewellery. So many of the old Tehuana patterns and dresses which Frida was known for can still be found in marketplaces like this.

Because this market is so large, you’ll have the largest selection and artisans comes from all over the country. Oaxaca is the best place to buy textiles from so if you see signage saying the products are from there you know they’ll be top-notch. If you’ve visited the Casa Azul already, you can even buy replicas of her favourite objects since many of those folk pieces are still made in the same way today. It’s like shopping in a Frida Kahlo-themed store!

Xochimilco Canals

Xochimilco is the Venice of Mexico. In the southern district of Mexico City, you’ll find is over 170 km of waterways which spread out in all different directions. Before the Spanish arrived in Mexico City, the indigenous people had created an incredible network of canals. They used these channels for transportation and to supply water throughout the country. Xochimilco means “Floating Gardens” as it refers to the Aztecs creation of the chinampas. Chinampas are artificial agricultural plots, rich in minerals, that are grown in shallow lake beds. In Xochimilco, they were used to produce thousands of flowers which looked like they were floating in the water. After the Spanish invasion, they dried up many of the canals in the centre of Mexico City to make room for modern roads. But the channels in Xochimilco remained.

Frida adored her Mexican heritage and the colourful culture which Mexico is all about. Today, Xochimilco is the best place to bask in that colour and energy. Along the canals, you can listen to mariachi bands, call over boats with mobile kitchens to serve up fresh tacos or delicious elote. Paddling along the stream are artisans selling flower crowns that resemble the flowers that Frida herself would wear in her hair. Even here, her iconic image is prevalent. To learn more about Xochimilco read my full guide here >> 

Museo Dolores Olmedo

While in Xochimilco, make sure you make a stop at the Museo Dolores Olmedo Museum. The museum is located inside the grounds of an old 16th-century residence. In 1962, Dolores Olmedo bought the house. Dolores was a fierce collector of art as well as a lover of Mexican culture. It is no surprise to learn then that she old became the largest collector of private works of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. In 1994, her collection was transformed into the museum we now find today. Luckily, Dolores lived until 2002, so she was able to see this fantastic house converted into an art gallery for the public.

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Today you can explore gardens filled with exotic Mexican plants, magical peacocks and Xoloitzcuintles. Xoloitzcuintles are a dog breed which was once only thought it exists in mythical stories of the afterlife but is actually an ancient Aztec dog. Frida herself loved these dogs and owned multiple throughout her lifetime. Inside the museum, you can find such famous Frida Kahlo’s as ‘The Broken Column’, ‘Henry Ford Hospital’, ‘Self-portrait with Changuito’, ‘A few Piquetitos‘ and ‘Mi nana Nand Me‘. If there is a particular painting, you wish to see be SURE to check online as so often her pictures are out on loan, being shown around the world.

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Templo Mayor Museum

Mexican culture and history were so essential to Frida’s life. Although Templo Mayor wasn’t discovered until after her death in 1978, Frida would have loved to have seen this relic from the past unveiled. Today, you can visit the museum and see what archaeologists discovered; the remains of the Aztec temple which the Spanish destroyed on their conquest into Mexico. The 10-foot carving of the Mexican goddess Coyolxauhqui and the over 7,000 Mexica artefacts is an entire half days worth of discovery!

Museum of Modern Art

The Museum of Modern Art in Mexico City has a stunning collection of 20th-century Mexican art. The most important being Frida Kahlo’s “The Two Fridas“. This painting is one of the most essential pieces in her oeuvre. It was painted after she divorced Diego and depicts what she saw as her two different personalities. The one on the left is dressed in traditional Tehuana costume, with a broken heart, her blood spilling out on the white of her dress. This Frida’s makeup is done, her lips painted deep red and rouge on her cheeks.

The Frida on the right is dressed in a more modern outfit. She is the independent Frida, whose heart is not broken and who can take on the world without Diego. But the two exist together, shattered and complete, heartbroken and confident. I love this painting as I feel it is so poignant to all of our lives and how we can be all things at once. Strong and weak, shy and loud, brave and scared. You don’t need to commit to one thing alone, we are complex beings, and this painting is a beautiful interpretation of that.

NOTE: Before visiting, be sure to check the website to see if the painting is on loan to another museum. Since this is the only piece of Kahlo’s inside the museum if you’re going expecting to see that and it’s on loan I know how disappointing that might be. So checking in advance is super important!

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Museo Nacional de Antropología

Throughout her life, Frida would often refer to “being the daughter and Mexico“. Her mother was unable to breastfeed young Frida, and so she was breastfed by her indigenous wetnurse. This is an image Frida has painted in a myriad of artworks. Frida always thought that by feeding on the milk of her country, she absorbed the cultural roots of her heritage from the minute she was born. Visiting the National Anthropology Museum is a window into the pre-colonial history of Mexico and those roots Frida so often referred to. The museum is also filled with many indigenous artworks as well as some of Frida and Diego’s student’s artwork they helped inspire.

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Mexican Art Gallery | GAM

Inés Amor founded the original Mexican Art Gallery in Mexico’s City in 1935. This was where Frida’s first art show in Mexico would take place. She exhibited her artworks during the inaugural International Surrealist Exhibition in 1940 with her painting ‘Las Fridas‘ (The Two Fridas, which is now at the Modern Art Gallery of Mexico). Even though there are no longer any of her pictures hanging on the walls, this is still an extraordinary place to visit. The gallery was the first to recognize the talents of Frida Kahlo professionally, and they are doing the same thing with current, contemporary Mexican artists today.

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Museo Franz Mayer

The Franz Mayer Museum is one of the most beautiful pieces of architecture in Mexico City. It also houses a wonderful personal art collection from collector Franz Mayer. Here you can find over six centuries of objects he took great care in collecting throughout his lifetime. These collections feature ceramics, furniture, silver, sculpture, paintings and engravings.

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But there is also a room, called the Marguerite Rostan gallery, which highlights traditional Mexican textiles and costumes. The collection contains clothing from 14 different ethnicities such as Amusgos, Triquis, Chinantecos, Mazatecos, Nahuas from various places across Mexico. This acquisition represents and embodies an important contribution to the knowledge of traditional Mexican costumes. Many of these dresses are so similar to the ones Frida wore throughout her life. If you’re interested in learning more about traditional Mexican fashion, this is a great place to visit.

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Museo Anahuacalli

On your way to Xochimilco, you should stop by the Museo Anahuacalli. Your ticket into the Casa Azul actually also covers your entry into this museum as well, so you kinda get a two for one! The Museo Anahuacalli was another one of Diego Rivera’s homes. Diego and Frida were both fierce nationalists who loved their home country and wanted to preserve its history. Diego and Frida dreamed of opening their own museum dedicated to these objects. Sadly, in their lifetime, this dream never came to fruition. But after Diego’s death, his daughter took up the project and created what is now the Museo Anahuacalli. Architect, Juan O’Gorman who designed their studio, also designed this house as well.

The exterior of the house was made using black volcanic stone, taken from an old volcano in Mexico and the texture is something truly unique. There are over 50,000 pre-Hispanic pieces inside the museum. Some of these Diego would collect while he and Frida would travel to ancient Aztec pyramids outside of Mexico City. Each one of them was a piece of Mexico’s heritage, a heritage that inspired the work of Frida Kahlo and I know she would be proud to have helped in the creation of this museum which stands today.

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If you’ve made it all the way through this post, I commend you! There is so much in Mexico City to see in the footsteps of Frida Kahlo. You can easily adapt this tour to your personal interests or locations you’re already planning on visiting. Frida is one of the most exciting artists I’ve ever studied, and I loved writing and researching this tour, so I hope you have as much fun following it as I did in creating it!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Guide to Following the Colorful Life of Frida Kahlo in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

This guided walking tour will lead you across the all the important stops in Coyoacán. I think to take it at a leisurely pace, leave yourself a whole day so you can take your time and go inside a few of the stops along the way. A google map with all the locations on the tour can be found at the bottom of this post.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. History
   • Map Of Walking Tour
   • Begin at: Frida Kahlo Park
   • Plaza de la Conchita
   • Casa de la Malinche
   • Breakfast at Café Avellaneda
   • Calle de Higuera
   • Iglesia de Coyoacán
     • Church Interior
   • Centenario Plaza
   • Hidalgo Plaza
   • Casa Municipal
   • Mercado Artesanal
   • Mercado de Coyoacán
     • Market Stalls
   • La Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo Museum
   • Leon Trotsky House Museum
   • Cafe El Jarocho
   • Le Bipo
   • Churreria General de la Republica
   • La Casa Del Coleccionista
   • Avenida Francisco Sosa
   • Casa De Diego De Ordaz
   • Italian Cultural Institute
   • Parque Santa Catarina
   • Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
     • Frida and Diego Statue
   • Barricas Don Tiburcio
   • Fonoteca Nacional
   • Viveros de Coyoacán
   • Centenario 107
   • Cineteca Nacional

Access

The best way to get to Coyaocan, and our first stop on tour, is by Uber. You can also take the Metro, but the station is quite far away from our starting point. Ubers, as long as you take them outside of peak rush hour, are only about $5 US from the centre of Mexico City. The journey takes around 25 minutes depending on traffic.

History

The village of Coyoacán was founded in the 12th century by the Tepanec tribe. This tribe migrated from the Valley of Mexico and settled themselves in Coyoacán. There they shared a common language, Nahuatl, with the surrounding villages. Unfortunately, despite the common language and culture, the tribes were not allies for long and for centuries they fought against one and other to conquer land.

When Hernán Cortés arrived on their shores of Mexico in 1519, the Tepanec, who hated the native Mexican tribes, were more than happy to assist him in his mission to conquer them. Cortés established himself in Coyoacán with the tribe he had become close with. He brought with him much wealth and Coyoacán bloomed as one of the most beautiful villages in the world, not just in Mexico. When the capital of Mexico was moved to Mexico City, Coyoacán remained a quiet village, outside the influence of such political and commercial urbanization. Even today, they do not suffer from the same urban sprawl as the rest of Mexico City. You can still find narrows street filled with charming post-colonial architecture amongst ancient cobblestones and lush green gardens.

Map Of Walking Tour

Begin at: Frida Kahlo Park

Wake up bright and early and head on down to the start of your tour, Frida Kahlo Park. Since Frida is the most well-known resident of the neighbourhood, it seems fitting to start our journey here. This square honours the memory of the great Mexican painter. You can find a bronze sculpture of her with a full Tehuana dress, standing proudly in the centre of the plaza. Beside her, is her husband, Diego Rivera, looking on lovingly. This park has a very structured layout, the bushes around it perfectly pruned and geometric shapes, resembling those of Aztec pyramids forming the archway overtop of the pathway.

 

 

 

 

 

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Plaza de la Conchita

Early in the morning, this peaceful square is practically empty. Only a few tamale sellers might be seen passing through on their way to hot spots in the centre of Coyoacán. In the middle of this square stands the Chapel of the Immaculate Conception Church, or “La Conchita“. La Conchita is a nickname for the church which literally translate into, “the little shell”. Although the church is now closed for restoration work, walking around this plaza will still provide an excellent introduction to the neighbourhood.

When the Spanish conquistador Hernan Cortes arrived in Coyoacán, he built this Church on what once was a pre-Hispanic ceremonial site. This was where Cortes held the very first Christian mass in the new land. The building’s exterior has an incredible stonework patterned facade, meant to resemble a the texture of a shell. The restoration taking place is attempting to repaint the church the same canary yellow as it once would have been coloured.

Casa de la Malinche

Walking north along the park, along Higuera street, you’ll pass the Casa de la Malinche. Although not open to the public, this house is thought to have been initially built for Cortés’ Spanish wife, Catalina Juárez de Marcaida. ‘La Malinche’ is the Spanish word for ‘the captain’s woman‘. Catalina Juárez de Marcaida was murdered in this very spot as she was seen to be a traitor to her people and even sometimes blamed for the downfall of the Aztec empire.

Breakfast at Café Avellaneda

While many places in Coyoacán open later in the morning, Café Avellaneda opens bright and early at 8 am! While this might be a tad early for some, for us morning people it’s a rare find! This quaint cafe is the perfect place to start your day. Start with one of their featured artisan lattes. Coffee in Mexico City is out of this world! Their selection of fresh-baked goods is superb with sweet cakes decorating their window display, enticing customers to come inside. We opted for a full breakfast and got the chilaquiles verde and the daily special pancakes with season fruits! It was absolutely delicious and I cannot recommend it more.

Calle de Higuera

Walking along the Calle de Higuera, up towards our next stop, take some time to observe the houses and buildings on either side of the street. This is one of the oldest streets in the city. Many of these homes were built in the colonial era and have been catalogued for their historical value.

Iglesia de Coyoacán

The Iglesia De Coyoacán was built between 1520 and 1552. Originally the church and its cloister were run by the Dominican order. But when Hernan Cortes entered the picture, he gave it to the Franciscan parish. Over the years the church has changed appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. Surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations. The atrium, now the Plaza del Centenario, was once the church’s cemetery. Today walking on these grounds is considered a holy spot as the gravestones are thought to be under the roads and pathways built on top.

Church Interior

The interior is covered in baroque gilded decorations and the ceiling topped with a mindblowing ceiling fresco of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Most of the work was done by indigenous hands, and their artwork is in the process of being preserved and studied. The studies aim to determine what materials were used in creating this vast variety of colours.

They want to know how such simplistic elements could achieve the same finesse as the professional supplies used in European constructions. The monastery portion of the church is located on the upper two floors surrounding a large courtyard. To this day the original wood beams and decorative work in remains, preserved almost my divine hands from the fires which ravaged the rest of the church. When we visited, there were a large group of locals, praying on their way to work. Religion in Mexico is still very much part of the fabric of everyday life. Unlike some churches in Europe which feel more like a historical relics, these buildings serve a practical purpose as well as being visually appealing.

Centenario Plaza

Spend some time wandering the two adjoining parks, the Centenario Garden and Hidalgo Plaza. The gated entrance to the Jardin del Centenario is marked by a gorgeous double archway which they call the ‘Arcadas Atrial’ or the ‘Arcos del Jardín del Centenario‘. It was once part of the entrance to the old 16th century Parish Church of San Juan Bautista built during the colonial period. Stone pieces from the original building were woven onto either side of the archway. Take a closer look to see how decorative motifs from that period depict both European and indigenous influence.

In the centre of Centenario Plaza is a fountain which contains a bronze sculpture of two coyotes, which refer to the borough’s name. The name Coyoacán comes from the Nahuatland word meaning “place of coyotes.” Today you’ll see the symbol of the coyote everywhere you look; on park benches, on street corners and even in flower gardens! On either side of the garden are lush Indian laurel trees which spread out to form a canopy over the walkway below. Underfoot, the street is paved with red and black volcanic stone from Mexico.

Hidalgo Plaza

In the middle of Hidalgo Plaza is a large 20th century stained glass-topped gazebo. The cupola on top is capped with a bronze sculpture of an eagle from the Mexican flag’s coat of arms. Around the gazebo, especially on the weekends, you’ll find musicians entertaining parties and locals out enjoying the sunshine or relaxing on the benches under the shade of the trees. Children are seen playing in the square, and brightly coloured balloon and toy vendors peddle their wares. There is always someone selling tamales in the morning or street tacos in the afternoon. My favourite street food snack is Elote (corn with mayonnaise, fresh cheese, lemon, salt and chile) or ‘Papas de carrito‘ (potato chips, churritos or fried pork rinds with lemon and salsa). No matter what time of the day, this square is bustling with action.

Casa Municipal

Across from Hidalgo Plaza, you’ll find the Hernan Cortés house or Casa Municipal. It was built in the 18th century as an administration building for the government. Although called the Cortes house, the conquistador never lived here. He did in fact life in Coyoacán from 1521 to 1522 but never on this property, even though a placard on the building says he did...the original fake news I suppose. Perhaps he simply spent so many hours inside these walls that people simply assumed he must live there.

Cortés resided on a piece of land once owned by the indigenous leader of Coyoacán, Juan de Guzmán Iztolinque, located where we now find La Conchita Church. The current incarnation of the Casa Municipal was built in the 18th century by Cortés’ descendants. The building was where the government of Coyoacán did all their business until 1928 when this district was absorbed as a municipality of Mexico City.

Mercado Artesanal

Across the street from Hidalgo Plaza is the yellow archway entrance to the Mercado Artesanal Coyoacán. While this artist market is less impressive than the Mercado De Artesanias La Ciudadela, the courtyard of the Artesanal market here well worth checking out for the beautiful ‘papel picado’ (pecked paper) which hang from either side of the small garden. The prices in this market are actually very reasonable (sometimes cheaper than in the city centre), but the selection isn’t extensive. I did find some beautiful glass work which I hadn’t seen anywhere though so you really never know what you’ll find. And if this is your only opportunity to visit a market in Mexico City than this is a great opportunity.

Mercado de Coyoacán

Head north along Aguayo and turn down Ignacio Allende where you’ll spot the terra cotta roof tiles of the Mercado de Coyoacán. This market has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. The newest part of the structure was built in the 1950s but the original, much smaller, market place was where both Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul.

Before entering the interior of the market, stop at the sidewalk entrance on the corner of Malintzin and Ignacio Allende where you’ll find El Jardín del Pulpo. El Jardín del Pulpo translates into ‘The Octopus’s Garden‘ where you can indulge in Coyoacán’s best street seafood. While it might seem a little more expensive than regular street food you’ll be eating such luxuries as lobster, langostino and you MUST give their GIANT shrimp cocktails a try!

Market Stalls

Inside the market, I found to have even more exciting vendors than the artisan market. You’ll find colourful Tehuana fabrics, the same as Frida would have worn in her day. There are dozens of flower stands, filling that side of the marketplace with rich aromas. Giant bowls of freshly ground mole powder are on display, take a look at all the different kinds of mole there are. You can find perfume, candles and a plethora of seasonal party decorations which hang from the ceiling making it look like entering a huge party!

But the main reason for visiting this market is to try Tostadaa Coyoacan! At lunchtime, the lines can get pretty long, but it moves quickly and gives you time to scope out what you want to try. The shrimp ceviche tostadas with thick slices of avocado to cut the acidity are absolute perfection! If eating raw seafood is a little too adventurous for you, try their famous shredded chicken; simple, moist and flavourful! There are six different eating areas with bar-style seating, so even at the busiest time of day you can almost always find somewhere to saddle up.

Barbacoa is another traditional dish to try in the Coyacán market. If you’re visiting on a Saturdays and Sundays, find your war to El Borrego de Oro or ‘The Golden Sheep’ stand at the back of the market. The shreds of tender meat atop freshly made tortillas are absolute heaven.

 

 

 

 

 

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La Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo Museum

What most people come to Coyocan for is the Casa Azul, also known as the Frida Kahlo Museum. The Casa Azul was where Mexican artist Frida Kahlo grew up, became an artist, got married and even died. She lived there with her husband Diego Rivera and together the two of them transformed a simple home into an artists retreat. After her death, the artworks of Frida Kahlo became an international sensation, gaining notoriety more and more as time went on. A hidden genius being discovered after her death, like it so often goes. But Frida herself has become an icon and cultural phenomenon.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art and being able to tour their home exactly as it was when they lived and worked inside it. Throughout the house you’ll see their collections of pre-Hispanic artefacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more. You feel a deep connection with these artists by literally walking in their footsteps, and this is an unmissable experience for anyone interested in art or Frida herself.

Leon Trotsky House Museum

If you’re interested in visiting more of the interiors of Mexico City’s famous residences, you should check out the Leon Trotsky House Museum. Trotsky was a Russian revolutionary, Marxist theorist, and Soviet politician who was expelled from Russia in 1929 fpr his radical beliefs. He sought exile all over the world, but it was Diego Rivera who asked the Mexican government to allow him to come to Mexico City to seek political asylum. Trotsky stayed with Diego and Frida until 1939 when his affair with Frida and disagreements with Diego became too inflamed.

After this, he moved into the house, which is now the Trotsky museum. Unfortunately, Trotsky wasn’t safe in Mexico City for long as he was assassinated in this very house. The house is today left in much the same condition as it was the day he died. In fact, the room where he was murdered still has the books he was reading and papers he was writing strewn about untouched. Walking up to it, it looks like a fortress, complete with tall watchtower where there were once armed guards. You can still see the bullet holes from his assassination attack on the outer walls of the house. Even if you don’t know much about Trotsky, it’s an interesting way to see what life in Mexico City looked like in the 1930s.

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Cafe El Jarocho

For a little pick me up, head over to Cafe El Jarocho. This place has been serving customers in Coyoacán for 63 years and is a veritable piece of history. It’s an unpretentious coffee shop and a great alternative to just another Starbucks. Give their mocha a try since it’s well-known for being made with traditional Mexican chocolate and some of their locally grown beans.

Le Bipo

If coffee won’t suffice and you’re looking for something a little more intense, head across to Le Bipo, across from Allende Park. This hip bar is a stylish place for an afternoon drink and some great people watching. For something really unique, try the Mauricio Garcés, a mezcal and with frozen pineapple soda, topped with chili powder.

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Churreria General de la Republica

On your way back towards the western part of down, you’ll pass back from through the Jardin Centenario once more. Across from the park is the Churreria General de la Republica which sells some fantastic churros, served up with a variety of dipping sauces. I love a churro but I think I love dipping them even more! If you’re hankering for a snack, this is a great place to stop for a quick break and take a seat in the park.

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La Casa Del Coleccionista

Right around the corner from the churros bakery is La Casa Del Coleccionista. This little shop sells antiques of all kinds. You can find everything from flatware, toys, paintings, vases, coins and more! Even if you don’t leave with anything, this place is like visiting a museum of Coyoacán’s ephemera.

Avenida Francisco Sosa

Heading over to our next destination, we set out along the Avenida Francisco Sosa. This is my favourite street in the entire city. The street is over 450 years old and connected Coyacán with the village of San Ángel. There are over 60 different buildings along the road which have been honoured by National Institute of Anthropology and History as being historical monuments.

Casa De Diego De Ordaz

One of the most famous buildings to see is Casa De Diego De Ordaz. It was built in the 18th century, and the facade is decorated in this fantastic Mudejar style which was popular at the time. The most remarkable features of the building are the reliefs made by indigenous people of Coyoacán.

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Italian Cultural Institute

Further down the road, you’ll pass the Instituto Italiano de Cultura or Italian Cultural Institute. This building is most recognizable by its red façade with bright white Moorish decorations. It was built between the 17th and 18th centuries and now houses the cultural offices of the Italian Embassy.

Parque Santa Catarina

For a quiet break, stop off in the Parque Santa Catarina. The marigold colour you can spot from afar which dominates this lovely parkette is from the adorable facade of the church of Santa Catarina. This chapel was built for use by the indigenous population in the very early colonial period. If you have the chance to step inside, you’ll find preserved 16th-century ornamental work. You’ll also we able to look on in wonder at s 400-year-old mural. The square around the church is the site of many a celebration, and there is usually remnant of those events still holding onto the sunlight the next morning. A great photo opportunity.

Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

Across from the park is the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This cultural centre is free to enter and a beautiful place to rest your feet or just explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property.

In this public centre, you’ll see people writing essays under the trees, practising dance, learning music, having heated morning meetings! There is even a little cafe and restaurant if you want to stay and enjoy the space a bit longer. You are free to roam around both inside and out. I loved wandering up and down the different floors of the old house trying to see what I could discover. I found their old kitchen, bathroom and some gorgeous tile work from the 19th century.

Frida and Diego Statue

In the middle of the ground is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple. Behind the walls of the garden, to the south, see if you can see the rooftop of La Callejón del Aguacate. This house is one of the most haunted in the Coyoacan. It is said to be haunted by the ghost of a woman and is a frequent place where local school children will be seen ghost hunting after hours.

Barricas Don Tiburcio

Continuing along Avenue Francisco Sosa, stop in at one of the most adorable groceries stores, Barricas Don Tiburcio. This boutique shop sells the finest wines from all around Mexico, if you’re a big wine fan, they are very well versed in the different varieties and can send you home with a real winner. They also sell delicious handcrafted Mexican products such as Oaxaca cheese, grasshoppers, prickly pear candies, peanut jams, queso chihuahua and more!

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Fonoteca Nacional

Towards the end of Avenue Francisco Sosa you’ll come upon the colourful Fonoteca Nacional, also known as the “House of Sounds of Mexico“. This beautiful building and the tranquil gardens which surround it, is the perfect place to come and wander to see if anything is going on. There is often free concerts or exhibitions happening in the various rooms, so it’s worth poking your head inside to see what’s going on.

Viveros de Coyoacán

Head north along Calle Salvador Novo towards Avenue Progreso where you’ll head east until you reach the entrance to Viveros de Coyoacán National Park. This 100-year-old park is run by the Secretary of Environment and Natural Resources. The main objective of the park is to grow and then replant different varieties of trees to reforest the entire metropolitan area of Mexico City. Different species of trees are dedicated to specific sectors of the city and walking through here you can learn all about the diverse flora and fauna Mexico is famous for.

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Centenario 107

After a long walk through the park, it’s time for dinner. Stop off at Centenario 107 for a laid back, colourful dinner. Colourful both in the atmosphere, decor as well as the food! There is an excellent selection of traditional delicacies as well as local craft beers and speciality mezcals.

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Cineteca Nacional

Our last stop on tour, as the sun begins to set is at the Cineteca Nacional or The National Film Archives. This 30 screen movie theatre is housed inside one of the most impressive modern pieces of architecture Mexican architect Michel Rojkind in Coyoacán. Cineteca Nacional often features a variety of different kinds of film programming from National and International projects. It also houses a cafe and a variety of hip restaurants and bars. At night time during the warmer months, there is even an area outside where you can see movies under the stars!

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The post Best Walking Tour of Historic Coyoacán, Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.