But while the pandemic might be raging outside my doors, lucky for us, the wonders of modern technology allow us to travel virtually. Even while cooped up at home! So if you’re looking for something fun to do, perhaps this virtual weekend tour of Mexico City is just what you need. This virtual tour is a fun way to bring a little bit of wanderlust back into your life and break your pandemic routine.

Table Of Contents

1. Saturday – Start with a Café de Olla
2. Visit the Golden Metropolitan Cathedral
3. Find your Inner Archeologist in Templo Mayor
4. Discover Historic Treasures inside the National Museum of Anthropology
5. Find Art Deco Murals inside the Palacio de Bellas Artes
6. Discover Mexico's Fold Art Heritage at the Museo de Arte Popular
7. Hike to the Chapultepec Castle
8. Take a Mexican Cooking Class
9. Sunday: Start off in Coyoacan's Casa Azul
10. Take a Virtual Walking Tour of Coyoacan
11. Experience the Wonders of Xochimilco
12. Peek into the Life of Frida & Diego inside the Museo Dolores Olmedo
13. Learn how to Make Mole
14. Watch a Lucha Libre Match!

Saturday – Start with a Café de Olla

One of my favourite parts of the day when visiting any city is early in the morning. This might seem odd to some people, as their idea of a vacation is getting to sleep in. But I find the morning to be the best time of day to see a new city. I love watching the locals walking to work, taking their dogs out to the park and admiring the sunlight as it rises to wake the city. And in every city I’ve visited, everyone starts the day off with a cup of coffee.

In Mexico City, I had some of the best cups of coffee of my life! One of the traditional forms of coffee in Mexico is called ‘Café de olla‘. Café de olla is easy to prepare at home yourself and will make you feel like you’re somewhere new! Café de olla is traditionally made in an earthen clay pot, and its predominant flavour is made from boiling cinnamon sticks. This gives the coffee the most amazing spiced flavour.

Café de Olla Recipe

The video below is my favourite recipe guide as it’s hosted by this adorable Abuela (Spanish for “grandmother”). She shares with us her time hnoured recipe for her Café de Olla. The only ingredient you might not find in your local grocery store is the ‘piloncillo‘. A piloncillo or panela is a cone of unrefined cane sugar. This boils away in the water and sweetens the coffee as it dissolves. If you don’t like sweet coffee, you can omit this altogether or just add white sugar to taste.

Visit the Golden Metropolitan Cathedral

Now that you’ve had your caffeine, let’s continue our peaceful start to the day. Next stop: the Metropolitan Cathedral, located in the heart of the Zocalo. The Metropolitan Cathedral of the Assumption of the Most Blessed Virgin Mary into Heaven is probably the longest title of a church I’ve ever seen. The church is the official seat of the Catholic Archdiocese of Mexico. While being such a holy place for Christians is enough to make this building sacred, it is also located right beside one of the most outstanding former Aztec precincts. The area is a powerful connecting space between both the new and old world. You can sit back and enjoy a 4K virtual tour of the building in the video below. Admire the fantastic gilding throughout the church and the stunning Saint chapels that flank either side of the nave.

CyArk

One of the most remarkable ways you can get up close to the details inside the church is through the work of CyArk. CyArk is a non-profit organization that aims to digitally record, archive and share the world’s most significant cultural heritage sites. In 2018 they set out to document the Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral. Since the structure is at such high risk due to earthquake damage, capturing it as it is now will help future restorers should the worst happen.

Altar of the Kings

As of 2021, CyArk has captured in 3D the entirety of the monumental ‘Altar of the Kings‘. This altar measures 45.1 ft wide, 82 ft tall and 25 ft deep! The altar is almost entirely covered in gold gilding and features hundreds of painted figures. Due to its enormous size and amount of gold used, it is also called the “golden cave“. With the CyArk technology, you can zoom right into the different pieces of the atar and see the smallest details you can’t see from the floor below.

You can also explore the exterior of the church. Zooming all around it, even peeking onto the roof. You can explore areas of the building unable to be seen by the public on the ground. I had never even noticed until now that the central dome’s onion roof has blue ceramic tiles lining the ribs! Their website also offers a detailed exhibition into the creations of this digital masterpiece.

Find your Inner Archeologist in Templo Mayor

Located right beside the Cathedral are the ancient ruins of the Templo Mayor. The Templo Mayor (which is Spanish for the “Greater Temple”) was the Aztec people’s main place of worship[ in their capital city of Tenochtitlan. Tenochtitlan was founded around 1325 on an island in what was then Lake Texcoco. The Aztec empire flourished here until the 15th century until the Spanish invaded and changed the course of Mexican history forever. The temple constructed here was called the Huēyi Teōcalli. It was dedicated to both the war god Huitzilopochtli, and the god of rain and agriculture, Tlaloc. Construction of the temple is thought to have begun in 1325 but saw significant reconstruction over the years. The Spanish destroyed the temple in 1521, but luckily we still have these remains to study the great empire.

History of the Museum

When the modern metropolis of Mexico City began to be constructed, city planners had no idea what was beneath the earth’s surface. In 1978 archeologist Eduardo Matos Moctezuma discovered that beneath 13 buildings in this area there were the ruins of the old empire. Excavating the site meant that all these 13 structures had to be demolished. Luckily, the city saw more value in recovering lost treasures of the past than preserved buildings from colonization.

More than 7,000 objects were discovered here and are on display in the museum. Skeletons of turtles, frogs and crocodiles were found as this area was once a rich waterway. There were also mixtec figurines, ceramic urns from Veracruz, masks from Guerrero state, copper rattles, and decorated skulls and knives of obsidian that were uncovered. So many of these objects came from far away, revealing that this city was a great place to journey to.

Street View

The museum opened to the public in 1980 so that everyone could view these fantastic pieces of Mesoamerican history. To view the site for yourself, you can explore it is via google street view in 360. You can look up and down on the exterior and see the details of these centuries-old buildings.

To find out more about the museum and the old temple, you can watch this video below. There are English subtitles to follow along with if you don’t speak Spanish. The video is well worth listening to as it gives you an excellent primer on the history of the site.

Discover Historic Treasures inside the National Museum of Anthropology

To learn even more about Mexico’s ancient history, head over to the virtual National Museum of Anthropology. This museum is the most visited museum in Mexico City. That is saying a lot since Mexico City is home to the world’s 2nd most extensive collection of museums! The National Museum of Anthropology’s goal is to research, conserve, exhibit and disseminate the most important archaeological and ethnographic collections from the country.

The online gallery is broken up into categories based on the materials the objects are made of. You can view pieces made of stone, clay, rock and more. When you click on an object, you will be able to study it in detail by zooming in and out. They scanned the items at such high-res you can get right into the cracks! Along with the images of the item are excellent write-ups on the pieces that will tell you all about where it was discovered, the meaning behind it and even information about the craftsmen who made it.

Find Art Deco Murals inside the Palacio de Bellas Artes

The Palacio de Bellas Artes or Palace of Fine Arts is an Art Nouveau masterpiece. It stands as the central hub for music, dance, theatre, opera and literature in Mexico, dubbing it with the nickname “Cathedral of Art“. Construction on the Palacio began in 1904 but was halted in 1913 due to many different complications. The structure wasn’t finished until 1934.

While the exterior is a beautiful blend of Art Nouveau and Neoclassical architecture, the interior is decorated with Art Deco elements. One of the things which makes the building so famous is the interior murals painted by Diego Rivera. To explore the Palacio de Bellas Artes, you can take a virtual tour. On the official website, you’ll be able to see the incredible murals, tour the sprawling art deco lobby, explore the theatre and even see underneath the stage! Something which not just any ol’ visitor would be able to see. My favourite part of the building is the stunning stained-glass dome inside atop the theatre.

Discover Mexico’s Fold Art Heritage at the Museo de Arte Popular

Across the street from the Palacio de Bellas Artes, you can find the Museo de Arte Popular. This museum takes visitors back several centuries and studies the history of traditional folk art of Mexico’s people. It aims to display the diversity of cultures and how the interaction between nature, man and society create the rich fabric of Mexican art and artistry.

Two online exhibitions that are available virtually study traditional Mexican textiles and the Festival of Day of the Dead. The show on clothing is such an interesting investigation into the influence of Mexico’s flora and fauna in apparel. You can see how different parts of the country have various iconic patterns dedicated to their local flowers.

In the exhibition ‘The Ofrenda of Day of the Dead‘, the museum aims to teach the viewer all about the Mexican ‘Ofrenda‘. An ‘ofrenda‘ is an altar that families prepare for the relatives who have passed. This is a traditional part of the Day of the Dead celebrations. It is meant to guide the spirits of their dead relatives’ home during the festival. The altar is filled with items that the person who past loved in their life. The altar is also covered with meaningful items such as sugar skulls, marigolds and more. The exhibition will tell you all about the significance of the objects placed on the altar.

Hike to the Chapultepec Castle

Hidden away atop a hill above downtown Mexico City is the great Chapultepec Castle. I was amazed by visiting the castle that such a thing existed in Mexico City’s modern metropolis. Chapultepec Castle’s name comes from the Nahuatl word” chapoltepēc,” that means “at the grasshopper’s hill.” The hillside was, for hundreds of years, a sacred place for the Aztecs. In the 18th century, before the palace was built, the hillside was home to a gunpowder warehouse and military academy. Then in 1864, it became the official residence of Emperor Maximilian I and his consort Empress Carlota.

Carlota went to excellent care and expensive to remodel the palace into a luxurious residence. It was used as an official residence of the President of Mexico from 1883 until 1939. After which it was turned into a museum. My blog about my visit to the castle is a highly detailed summary of all the wonders you’ll find there. YouVisit also has a beautiful virtual tour you can take to view parts of the palace in 360 degrees!

Take a Mexican Cooking Class

The best way to finish off your day is to create a delicious traditional Mexican meal. One of the best things about visiting Mexico City is the food! And while you might not be able to be there yourself, food is always something you can attempt to make at home. One of the very best online class services is the ever-popular MasterClass. Gabriela Cámara, A “star of modern Mexican cuisine,” brings her local, sustainable twist to time-honoured traditions. In this class, you will learn how to make everything you need for a complete Mexican dinner. You’ll make fresh tortillas, succulent tacos al pastor, salsas (of course), and my favourite aguachile de camarón (raw shrimp in lime and chile). You can even learn how to make huevos rancheros to eat for breakfast the next day!

Sunday: Start off in Coyoacan’s Casa Azul

Next up, it’s time to head over to the suburb of Coyoacan, to see where the great artists Frida Kahlo lived. Frida not only grew up in Coyoacan, but she also purchased her childhood home and lived out the rest of her days there too. She called the house “La Casa Azul”. The name comes from the bright Azul (Spanish for blue) colour that the house’s exterior is painted with. In her childhood journal, she wrote that the colour blue represented “electricity and love.” Those two words seem to describe Frida perfectly. Despite all the suffering, she went through her art and her life is filled with such passion and power.

Truly one of my favourite places I have ever visited is the Casa Azul, in Mexico City. This gorgeous blue house, in the cozy neighbourhood of Coyoacan, is where Frida Kahlo lived as a child. It is also where she spent the better part of the end of her life. In Mexican culture, it is good luck to be born and die and in the same place. The Casa Azul is teeming with memories, influences, and the real spirit, Frida Kahlo. There is genuinely no better place to give you a more intimate exploration into her life than inside the Casa Azul.

During the summer of 2020, the Casa Azul Museum took it upon themselves to capture the Casa Azul in 360 degrees. With this new technology visitors from all over the world could explore the house room by room from their own home! You can explore the entirety of the house, peeking into her kitchen, bedroom, studio and her magical garden. The virtual tour doesn’t come with any detailed information, so you can use our self-guided tour. Follow along for a complete understanding of the significance of every object, painting and plant inside the house. If you’re interested in a full virtual tour of Frida Kahlo, you can check out my blog post for more on the great artist.

Take a Virtual Walking Tour of Coyoacan

One of the most important places to study Frida Kahlo is in her home town neighbourhood of Coyoacán. Outside the heart of Mexico City, this little village was where Frida was born, grew up, lived, and eventually died. These streets were her playground, her studio and her home. It’s here you can get a glimpse into the life of the great artist. You can read more about Coyoacan here or take a virtual tour online.

Experience the Wonders of Xochimilco

A place that was sacred to Frida was Xochimilco. Xochimilco and the surrounding Aztec waterways were where Frida and her friends would go to escape the city. A famous photo of Frida on a boat along the Xochimilco canals shows her dipping her hand into the water. She felt at home here, a place to run away from her dramatic marriage, her pain and even perhaps, herself.

Today it’s a vibrant neighbourhood where you can experience the same journey Frida would have taken. There are so many videos online which take you through these wonderfully colourful canals. With a Mezcal in hand at home, you’ll feel like you’re there!

Peek into the Life of Frida & Diego inside the Museo Dolores Olmedo

Located in Xochimilco, the Museo Dolores Olmedo is situated in an old stone house dating back to the 16th century. Inside it contains the world’s largest collections of works by Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The online exhibition tells the story of the life and art of Frida Khalo. Using personal effects, photographs and live street views of where she lived you feel like you are stepping into her shoes. And of course, you’ll also see a myriad of her earliest paintings and sketches.

Learn how to Make Mole

For our second recipe I wanted to provide an alternative to the subscription service which MasterClass requires. There are TONS of free recipes and tutorials online and the best are on Youtube. Rick Martinez with Food52 (one of my favourite recipe websites) takes us through how to make one of his favourite recipes, Mole. Mole is such an essential part of Mexican cusine. But the recipe can feel like a daunting one to take on. But with Rick’s charming personality and easy-to-follow instructions, he makes the entire experience nothing but fun!

Watch a Lucha Libre Match!

Lucha Libre is one of the most vibrant and exciting sports to watch in Mexico City! It had even been deemed a part of the “intangible cultural heritage” of Mexico City as of 2016. Lucha Libre means “freestyle wrestling,” and these stupendous matches are the perfect way to end off your virtual tour of Mexico City. Over the years, Lucha Libre wrestling has developed a unique style separating it from any form of American wrestling, either professional or Olympic.

In Mexico, wrestlers dress in fantastical outfits and always wear the iconic colourful “lucha” mask. They must wear their mask, hiding their true identity. Only when they lose a match are they unmasked as a sign of disgrace. We went to see a show when we were in Mexico City, and it was one of the most exciting nights of my life! To get an idea of what it is like to experience it for yourself, I would recommend watching the video below.

The video details the entire experience. From entering the great stadium, to the food and, of course, the amazing acrobatics of Lucha wrestling. If you’re interested in just watching other matches, you can check out this video and more online.

This brings us to the end of our lovely virtual weekend in Mexico City. Another part of our series on Virtual Travel. I hope you enjoyed being able to see all these amazing places inside my favourite place in the world! Let me know in the comments what you’re favourite place we saw was and what future destinations you’d like to visit virtually next!

Happy (Virtual) Travels, Adventurers!

The post How to Have an Amazing Virtual Weekend in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. History
2. Flowers
3. Tortillas de Arina
4. Mexican Chili Peppers
5. Moles Miguel
6. Vanilla
7. Dried Fruits & Nuts
8. Productos Regionales Yucatecos y del Sureste
9. Fruits and Vegetable Sellers
10. Piñatas
11. Lecheria
12. Sugar Skulls
13. Corn Tortillas
14. Heladería Cubano
15. Meat and Seafood
16. La Morenita de Medellín
17. La Flor de Xochimilco
18. Meche y Rafael Carnitas
19. Outside Street Food
20. La Michoacana
21. Tips for Visiting the Farmer's Market

History

The Mercado Medellín is easily identifiable by it’s red, green and yellow geometric painted exterior. Lookout on one side for a huge, decorated multicolour mural. This marketplace has stood here for over 150 years. When the market was first established, it was in the centre of an immigrant community in Mexico City. Colombians, Cubans, Brazilian, Venezuelans and even Jewish immigrants all found themselves in the middle of the city in a neighbourhood now called Roma Sur.

The immigrants would import food and goods from their home country to sell here in their new home in Mexico City. Up until the earthquake of 1985, Jewish Mexicans owned and operated the market. But after the quake, its ownership passed hands over to the Cubans, therein earning the market its nickname; “Little Havana.”

The entire marketplace is now home to over 500 different stalls. While you can have a blast just wandering around on your own, I’ve tried to highlight the key things you should see, buy and which are the best shops to visit!

Flowers

While this market can’t compete with the enormity of the Mercado Jamaica (the largest flower market in the city), the pre-made bouquets you’ll find here, beckoning you in from the street, are lovingly curated. After shopping for their food, we saw various locals come out and buy a bouquet from their favourite seller on their way home. A little something to brighten up their home for the week! Our favourite flower to see was the poinsettias for sale. Poinsettias, known as Flor de Nochebuena, are native to Mexico. In North America, the flowers are usually only seen around Christmas but here they actually grow as small trees or bushes. During the winter months, poinsettias can be spotted all over the streets and sidewalks of Mexico City.

Tortillas de Arina

One of the first stalls to visit is ‘Tortillas de Arina.‘ This tortilleria makes flour tortillas for shops all across the city. Hundreds of tortillas speed off the conveyor belt, and the smell of freshly baked bread invites you to walk up and see what’s happening behind the counter. The word tortilla comes from the Spanish word for cake “torta” and “illa” means little. So it translates, the word for tortilla translates into “little cake.” The flour tortilla is much more popular with people from Northern Mexico. The close proximity to the border markets allowed Northern Mexicans to get inferior grade wheat flour, which they could make cheaply into flour tortillas. People who have moved from the northern provinces to Mexico City come here often to get their fix of wheat tortillas. Wheat tortillas are only usually only paired with Northern Mexican dishes.

Mexican Chili Peppers

This is one of the best markets to find fresh, Mexican Chili Peppers! There are five main chillies to see (perhaps even buy to take home with you); the Ancho, the Mulato, the Pasilla, the Morita and the Guajillo. The ancho chilli is the dried version of a poblano pepper. Ancho peppers are used in mole and many other recipes. Ancho is so popular because it has a subtle flavour with a hint of sweetness. Next up is the mulato chilli, also in mole. The mulato chihlli is also derived from the poblano pepper but picked when it first ripens, making it slightly spicier.

Pasilla chili

The final ingredient in the trifecta of mole chillies is the pasilla chilli. The pasilla are dried from chilaca peppers and are the darkest in colour. They are also much thinner and much spicier! Morita chipotles are chillies made by smoking ripe jalapeno peppers. These chipotles are not as strong in terms of a smokey flavour as some other, so really with this version, you get the best of both worlds.

The final chilles to find in the market is the guajillo chilli. Guajillo’s are long, flat, but small and are one of the spiciest varieties. Small packs a punch that’s for sure! It was so fascinating getting to touch and smell these chillies. The ones we get at home are so hard and almost crispy, but these dried peppers were soft and almost leathery. So if you’re a cook and want to make any Mexican recipe, these chillies are imperative to buy from these markets. Just be sure you know the customs regulations regarding these vegetables and always declare them to be sure.

Moles Miguel

Find your way to Moles Miguel, one of the most famous mole sellers in the market. This family-owned store sells pre-made mole pastes in different varieties. I never knew there were so many! If you ask nicely, they might even let you try a few before buying. Some of the most popular varieties are black mole, named for its super dark colour. This one is made with lots of cocoa beans (making it quite bitter). This one also has a more cinnamony taste than the rest. Then there is the red mole, made with dried red chiles like pasilla, guajillo and ancho. Finally, you’ve got the mole poblano. This version, in my opinion, is the best of them all. It’s sweet (but not too sweet) and just the right amount of smoke flavour.

Vanilla

Mexico is the birthplace of vanilla, and there is really no better place to buy it. Although the authentic extract is delicious, its even better to buy the bean pods fresh from sellers like you’ll find in these marketplaces. Fresh seeds are so much more fragrant than the extract since they aren’t diluted in alcohol.

Dried Fruits & Nuts

Dried fruits, nuts and seeds can be found all over the market, stashed away inside large tubs and baskets. Walnuts, called Castile nuts in Mexico, are of enormous importance during the late summer. Walnuts are a key ingredient to make one of Mexico’s most famous dishes, “chiles en nogada.” This dish is made with spicy green poblano peppers, stuffed with chopped meat and raisins. The dish is then topped with a thick sauce made from only cheese and ground walnuts. A sprinkling of pomegranate seeds creates the colours of the Mexican flag all in one dish!

The recipe was invited in honour of the leader of the Mexican uprising against the Spanish in the 19th century. Since the recipes invention, the dish eaten to celebrate Mexico’s Independence. Ironically, nuts were brought to Mexico by the Spaniards themselves. Almonds and peanuts are also an essential ingredient in mole as they add that deep, nutty flavour to the dish. Dried fruits from Mexico are beyond fresh, soft and flavourful. They are the perfect snack to stash away in your bag for an afternoon snack.

Productos Regionales Yucatecos y del Sureste

Many of the shops in the market sell pre-made mixes and pastes. From these you can create a myriad of Mexican recipes. Productos Regionales Yucatecos y del Sureste sells them all in one place. One of the most famous recipes in Mexican cuisine is Cochinita Pibil. The key ingredient to this recipe is Achiote paste. Achiote seeds are a traditional Aztec ingredient. The achiote paste is made from steeping the seeds in oil or lard. It’s thought to be like the saffron of Mexico. It’s so popular due to its sweet, earthy and peppery flavour. Buy it here and bring home to impress your friends.

Fruits and Vegetable Sellers

There are so many stands in this marketplace that have been run by the same family for generations. The food found here is an amalgamation of both locals and imported foods. Together they create the fabric of Mexico’s culinary culture.

A popular Mexican fruit that you may never have heard of is the mamey fruit. The mamey fruit has a rough rind, but a soft, coral coloured flesh underneath. When perfectly ripe, it tastes like a cross between a sweet potato and an orange. You’ll find these on menus all over Mexico, often as part of a beverage or served atop puddings.

Another odd ingredient you’ll find here is the nopal or cactus. “A cactus, you say?” Certain parts of the cactus are indeed edible and, when appropriately cooked, are shockingly delicious! To prepare the nopal, you slice off the exterior, scrap the spine, cut into slices, and boil with some simple spices. It’s incredibly cheap but very hearty food.

One of the last ingredients you might be on the lookout for is the tomatillo. You might know the tomatillo by its North American name, “green tomato”. But the Tomatillos found here in Mexico City as far different. They are much smaller and bursting with flavour. Tomatillos are used in all sorts of dishes. You can find them in salsas, salads and even soups! Tomatillos in the market are on display with their delicate pale husk on, which is removed before eating.

Piñatas

One thing which this market had plenty of is pinata makers. You can homemade pinatas all over the market. Some of which are still in the process of being made from scratch. When pinatas were first introduced to Mexico from Spain, they were symbolic of the Catholic belief in the deadly sins. The first pinatas weren’t shaped like Hello Kitty or Superman; they were seven-pointed stars, with each point representing a mortal sin. The person being blindfolded represented humanity’s blind faith in God needed to resist these temptations. The participant was spun around 33 times, once for every year of Christ’s life. Then the stick is used to beat the sins out of the faithful, and the candy and fruit represented the rewards for keeping the faith. You can still find these original designs in the marketplace today!

One of the oldest fruits to be included in the pinata was the tejocote. These are still sold today in the market, but have been replaced for sweet candy inside the pinatas. These Aztec fruits resemble a crabapple and are both similar in taste and shape but have the most beautiful golden colour.

Lecheria

Along the back wall, you can find a huge lecheria, which is Spanish for ‘dairy’ which sells a variety of cheese produced from local farms. My favourite is Oaxaca cheese. Oaxaca cheese is made from soft, stretched-curd cheese, made with cows’ milk. It pulls apart, almost like a cheese string (for those 90s kids reading), and if often served atop meals as it melts quickly and adds that perfect salty, umami flavour. The most interesting of the cheeses was the chihuahua, which is made from a Mennonite community in Mexico. Chihuahua cheese is relatively simple, with a buttery, yet sharp taste but very popular since its gentle flavour allows it to be paired well with most dishes.

See if you can also find or try some membrillo, which is a jelly made with quince juice and honey to be served alongside cheese. Together with the salty cheese, this sweet jam is perfection.

Sugar Skulls

Dia de Los Muertos (or Day of the Dead) was an Aztec ritual that celebrated the lives of those who were deceased. Despite the Spaniards attempt to rid the country of this sacred holiday, the ceremony remained. Eventually, it was blended together with the Catholic celebration of All Saints Day on November 1st. Traditional sugar skulls are a highly respected part of the day of the Dead rituals. Sugar was brought to Mexico in the 17th century by Italian missionaries. Sugar cane was so easy to grow in Mexico, so there became an abundance of it in the country.

History of Sugar Skulls

As Mexico was converting to Catholicism, it found that their churches didn’t match up to the opulence of the ones in Europe. Mexico didn’t have enough money to import decorations or cover their churches in gold. But what they did have was sugar, which they could produce cheaply and in vast quantities. So, using clay moulds, they used sugar to create angels, crosses and more to decorate the interior of their churches. Eventually, these kinds of decorations made their way into the celebrations of Day of the Dead. Sugar skulls were created to represent the soul of the departed, and their name was written upon the forehead of the sugar skull. They were then laid on the grave or ofrenda to honour the spirit of the beloved one who had past. You can find still these sugar skulls in the marketplaces around Day of the Dead.

Corn Tortillas

Freshly made Corn Tortillas can be found inside the market. Corn Tortillas were first invented around 10,000 BC when corn was domesticated in Mexico. Corn was linked to life in Mexico. It was their primary source of carbs (which equals energy). During the Aztec empire, one of the most popular dishes was tortillas, with chilli sauce, beans and squash. Today local workers still come to tortillerias to get fresh tortillas, salsa, rice and beans, which they will bring to the worksite to enjoy for their lunch. Just like it was thousands of years ago. Some things never change…

Heladería Cubano

Towards the back of the market, stop at Heladería Cubano. The kind gentleman behind the counter serves up Cuban ice cream and milkshakes. The milkshakes are made with fresh creme, sugar, ice (made from filtered water) and your choice of fresh fruit. He also can add malt to the milkshakes, which give you that retro flavour. Such an exciting thing to find in the middle of a Mexican marketplace but not at all unwelcome. The Cuban ice cream maker is famous in the market for his natural flavours and thick creamy ice cream!

Meat and Seafood

Take a step into the fresh meat and seafood area. Definitely the most fragrant area of the market but still very exciting. People are always yelling joyfully at each other from across the room and large meat cleavers can be heard smashing into hunks of beef and pork all across the room. This is usually where there is the most action, with locals, home cooks and restaurant chefs, coming here to buy their meats for the day.

La Morenita de Medellín

One of the most popular eateries in the market is ‘Marisquería,’ also known as “La Morenita de Medellín.” This is one of the only places in landlocked Mexico City where you can reliably find incredible seafood! Hidden away inside this marketplace, you can try red snapper from Veracruz, fish covered in garlic and chilis, pulpo al ajillo (cooked octopus), the devil’s oysters (oysters cooked in butter) and Mexican paella (which came over with Spanish). Reliably a great option if you’re craving seafood!

La Flor de Xochimilco

La Flor de Xochimilco is one of the most popular eateries inside the market. They specialize in taco de barbacoa. Barbacoa actually originates from the Caribbean. Taco de barbacoa refers to slow-cooked meats, over an open fire. The meat is cooked till its super tender. Then tacos are served with diced onions, cilantro and lime juice to help cut the fatty taste of the meat. If you’ve never had a barbacoa taco, this is a must!

Meche y Rafael Carnitas

At the back corner, hidden away, if THE place for carnitas, Meche y Rafael! Unfortunately, it’s only open on Saturdays. Pork was introduced to Mexico by the Spanish in the 16th century. Carnitas is a Spanish word that means “little meats.” Carnitas are made using lean pork mean, which is sliced and marinated in seasoning for hours. The fat cut from the meat is used for frying the carnitas before they are eaten. This carnitas stand serves up with bountiful portions alongside slices of the city’s best chicharrón. Douse the tacos with plenty of salsa and pickled radishes to cut the grease; while it might not be the healthiest food, it might be the most delicious.

Outside Street Food

Around the perimeter of the marketplace, are always a few reliable street food stands, run by some of the nicest local women. If you’re looking for something delicious to try, order up the tlacoyo. Tlacoyo is made from blue corn dough and filled with beans. It’s then fried on the grill. Once cooked, they are garnished with Oaxaca or cotija cheese, nopales, salsa and chicharrón. So filling, delicious and impossibly cheap! If you’re there earlier in the morning, be sure to try their breakfast version, which was made with fried potatoes with chorizo. It’s fantastic!

La Michoacana

If you are looking to sample an agua fresca, hit up the La Michoacana. La Michoacana is actually a chain of ice cream parlours in Mexico City. And although their ice cream is never quite up to snuff, their agua frescas are reliably some of the best! Just ask anyone behind the counter if they’re made with filtered water (agua pura) to be sure it’s safe to drink. Agua frescas are more than just juice, they are these incredible beverages flavoured with uniquely Mexican flavours like tamarind, hibiscus, and horchata!

Tips for Visiting the Farmer’s Market

• Always bring cash and small change. Most marketplaces don’t take credit cards, and if you plan on haggling at all, don’t even think about using a credit card. Cash is king in the market. But big bills won’t work either. Most of these sellers won’t have a lot of change, and early in the day, you might find that don’t have change at all. I always keep a stash of coins with me at all times to ensure I have the exact amount when shopping in markets like these. Having small coins is also important for using public washrooms in places like this, as most charge 5 pesos for the bathroom.
  
• Beware of Pickpockets. Although this marketplace is much less of a target than some of the most touristy markets in other parts of town, you should always be aware of your surroundings. Keep your money in safe places, not easily accessible by someone else. For me, I keep some smaller change in my pockets and any bigger bills deep in my bag, where it would take some time to access. But honestly, just keeping your awareness of what and who is around you is the most important part of keeping safe.

• Ask before touching any food. Most of the seller won’t mind if you touch the food, in fact to buy some fruits and vegetables you need to give it a squeeze to see if it’s ripe! But some tourists touch EVERYTHING and it really bothers the sellers. I’ve seen some tourists come in and mess up their entire display without so much as moving one thing back into place. Just ask nicely if you can look or touch something and respect what the seller responds with. But honestly, just asking will win you over with them!

• Think before taking a picture. Some of the vendors inside the more touristy markets take umbrage with tourists taking photos of their stalls. The main reason for this is they don’t always want to be on camera but also, they don’t see themselves as a tourist attraction. They would prefer you to buy something instead of just taking pictures and yet walking away without contributing to any of the vendors who need money to keep their businesses running. I always look for a “no photos” sign first before taking a picture since that’s pretty clear cut. Often, I’ll even ask the vendors if it’s ok. If you’re purchased something you’re almost always ok to take a picture since the seller knows you’re not just using them as a prop, but actually care about the product.

• Travel Light. These types of markets are fairly crowded, with narrow aisles and products overflowing over the edges of the counters. This means carrying a huge backpack with you might not be the best idea. I would stick to a small bag for your shopping and a crossbody bag for your valuables.
  
• Be friendly. Locals are proud of their produce. Some of these farmers sell the very things they harvested that morning to shoppers. Giving them a smile, a hello, goodbye or good afternoon goes a long way in acclimatizing yourself into this neighbourhood market.

• If you don’t recognize something, don’t be afraid! Trying new things is what travelling is all about! The food at this market is incredibly fresh. These stands only stay open until 4 or 5 pm so the turn over is daily and nothing just gets left behind. The only thing I really avoid is water washed veggies, like salads, but anything cooked is fair game!

Learn some key Spanish phrases

When shopping in a local market like this you might not find a lot of people who speak English. To make a good impression and fit in with the locals, try to learn a few phrases. The most important phrases are the ones to do with prices so you’ll understand how much everything costs. I would recommend avoiding any haggling if you don’t speak Spanish competently since you’ll get over your head pretty fast.

Here are some of my key phrases for shopping:
good morning // Buenos días
good afternoon // buenas tardes
goodbye // adiós
how much? // Cuánto cuesta?
one, two, three // uno, dos, tres
What is this? // ¿Que es esto?
Thank you // Gracias
no, thank you // no, gracias
Can I touch? // ¿Puedo tocar?
Can I take a photo? // ¿Puedo tomar una foto?  

We first came to the market on a guided tour with Casa Jacaranda. I cannot recommend their cooking experience more so if you are interested in learning more about Mexican cuisine and Markets in Mexico check them out!

The post Guide To Exploring the Vibrant Medellin Market in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

But I read review after review and had to check it out for myself. And let me say, perhaps as a bit of a spoiler, I now understand why this is such a perfect experience. Casa Jacaranda offers more than just a cooking class. It’s a whole day of activities, discoveries, learning opportunities and a chance to make new friends.

Table Of Contents

1. About Casa Jacaranda
2. The Casa Jacaranda Cooking Class Experience
3. Mercado Medellín
4. Molino y Tortilleria Golilas De Amor
5. Roma Norte
6. Casa Jacaranda
7. The Menu
8. Making the Mole
9. Tamales
10. Cocktails
11. Rooftop Dinner
12. Prices:
13. Group Rates:

About Casa Jacaranda

The classes are offered Tuesday through Saturday. Beto Estúa and Jorge Fitz are the co-owners of Casa Jacaranda, and either one or both of them will join you on your culinary journey, depending on class size and availability.

Most classes are held in English, although there are some classes available in Spanish. The small class size (typically 6-8 people) means that you feel close with everyone there but have enough people to quickly cook these huge menus!

The day begins at 10 am and ends around 4:30 pm, so you really do get an entire day’s worth of entertainment out of the whole experience. The price per adult is $180 USD and children are $120 USD. While this might seem expensive, as mentioned, you get an entire day’s worth of entertainment and indulgence. Trust me on this, it’s worth every peso.

The Casa Jacaranda Cooking Class Experience

Mercado Medellín

The day began at the Mercado Medellín, in Roma Sur. The Mercado Medellín is easily identifiable by it’s red, green and yellow geometric painted exterior with stunning multicolour murals painted above. We stood at the meeting spot, just under the market’s sign, and met the other travelling cooks, two fellow Canadians and a mother-son duo from America. They were immediately so friendly and just as excited as we were! Beto arrived with his traditional shopping bags and his assistant in tow. He happily introduced himself to the group, and we collectively decided on the dishes we were set to prepare for the day.

About the Market

Before heading into the market. Beto took a moment outside to tell us all about the history of the market. This marketplace has stood here for over 150 years, although the more modern appearance is from renovations after the earthquake. When the marketplace was first established, it was in the centre of an immigrant community in Mexico City. Colombians, Cubans, Brazilian, Venezuelans and even Jewish immigrants all found themselves in the middle of the city in a neighbourhood now called Roma Sur. The immigrants would import food and goods from their home country to sell here in their new home in Mexico City. They sold both to locals who were interested in trying something new and other immigrants who wanted a taste of home.

Up until the earthquake of 1985, Jewish Mexicans owned and operated the market. But after the quake, its ownership passed hands over to the Cubans, therein earning the market its nickname; “Little Havana.” The entire space is now home to over 500 different stalls. If you were simply a regular tourist, this could be overwhelming, but Beto made sure to take us to all his favourite stalls and show us what you needed to see! Every one of them knew him by name and would wear a huge smile on their faces as we approached.

Mexican Chili Peppers

Our guide took us through the market to various sellers where we picked up ingredients for our meal. One of the most important ingredients in Mexican cuisine are chili peppers. Many of these peppers were going to be present in a few of our recipes, so it was essential to learn all about them! Some peppers have different names depending on if they are dried or fresh. In this market alone, we stopped and smelled over 15 different kinds of peppers. We learned where they were grown and how each of them could be used in various recipes. Some of the peppers were heavily smoked in addition to being dry, and it was amazing to smell the differences between just a dried pepper and a smoked and dried pepper.

Fruits and Vegetable Sellers

Next up, we visited the local fruits and veggie sellers, which is Beto’s favourite in the marketplace. This one stand has been run by the same family for five generations. He explained to us all about the different varieties of vegetables you can find in a traditional Mexican garden. In one garden beds, pretty much anywhere in Mexico, you can grow everything you need to sustain yourself. Beto told us all about which fruits and veggies were originally from Mexico and which were imported early in its colonization. Today, all of these are used together to form the fabric of Mexico’s culinary culture.

One of the oldest fruits to be included in the pinata was the Tejocote. These are still sold today in the market, but rarely are they always included in the pinatas. These Aztec fruits resemble a crabapple and are both similar in taste and shape but have the most wonderful golden colour.

Street Food

After looking at all this food, it was finally time to try some for ourselves. Just before the lunch rush, we headed to the back of the market, where a few ladies were preparing tlacoyo. You’ve probably seen tlacoyo all over the city but, if you were like me, had no idea what was in them. They’re made from blue corn dough and filled with beans and then fried on the grill. Once cooked, they are garnished with Oaxaca or cotija cheese, nopales, salsa and chicharrón.

We also tried out their breakfast version, which was made with fried potatoes cooked with chorizo. It was fantastic!

Molino y Tortilleria Golilas De Amor

This brought us to the end of the marketplace tour, so we headed on our way over to Casa Jacaranda. On our way, we past Beto’s favourite tortilla makers, Molino Y Tortilleria Golilas De Amor. Molino y Tortilleria Golilas De Amor hand makes corn tortilla, made from fresh masa every day. The kind old man behind the counter would grab a hot one fresh off the press and hand it to us to taste. You would first sprinkle some salt on top, then some salsa (spicy of course) and roll it up before eating it to ensure the salsa and salt was in every bite.

Corn tortillas were first invented around 10,000 BC when corn was domesticated in Mexico. Corn was life in Mexico, as it was their primary source of carbs (which equal energy). During the Aztec empire, one of the most popular dishes was tortillas, with chilli sauce, beans and squash. Today local workers still come to tortillerias to get fresh tortillas, salsa, rice and beans, which they will bring to the worksite to enjoy for their lunch. Just like it was thousands of years ago. Some things never change…

Roma Norte

The streets around Beto’s house were rich with incredible architecture. This neighbourhood was originally designed for the upper class in the early twentieth century, so they found the finest designers and architects to make masterfully houses. Art deco and neo-classical designs reign supreme here as do the enormous Jacaranda trees which line the streets, creating a canopy over the entire block.

Casa Jacaranda

Casa Jacaranda is named as such due to the rich collection of old Jacaranda trees on the street and the large one which hangs over Beto’s house. Jacaranda trees arrived in Mexico City from Brazil. Their large canopy and bright lavender blooms made them a hot commodity for any burgeoning neighbourhood!

When we first walked through the doors at Casa Jacaranda, we were gobsmacked. I had expected a simple kitchen or workspace, but what we found was a gorgeously restored and renovated 1930’s house. It was decorated floor to ceiling in beautiful works of art, historical ephemera and knickknacks, which represent the cultures and culinary traditions of Mexico. There were also so many personal mementos and pictures around the house, it truly made us feel at home. I found it hard to get my head in the game to cook since all I wanted to do was pour through the bookshelves and study the paintings on the wall.

The Menu

There are a variety of options for the menu which you’ll make with the group. Although some of us had reviewed the website and knew the options, we needed to make a choice as a group as to what we wanted to cook. We opted for the mole since we felt it had the richest in history, and we were all interested in that aspect of Mexican cooking. No matter what main meal you pick, you’ll always end up making a full menu with two appetizers, one entree and a dessert.

Making the Mole

The first recipe we dove into was the mole. Beto started off by laying out the method and all the steps needed for its preparation on the blackboard behind us. I’m not going to share that with you here since it was his own adapted recipe and something he has perfected over the years. But if you yourself book a class with him he shares with the class all those recipes and more and you come away with almost a full recipe book of printed meals to make at home!

Mole is made with 28 different ingredients, although Beto kindly makes his with 26 since he removes the bread (gluten) and the peanuts, so this recipe can more easily accommodate a variety of allergies. Beto’s mole is adapted from a version of the recipe from Puebla, a region in the east which is known for its culinary history and traditions. Beto has been making this recipe for years with his family, so you really feel like you’re making something that was designed to be made with love.

Ingredients

Before we even arrived, all the ingredients were laid out for us. Beto’s handy assistant had torn through the market to buy all the supplies we needed while we were leisurely wandered through the market. This allowed us to learn from Beto about all the component which now sat on the table before us.

One of our favourite parts of the experience was just listening to Beto chat away about the history of some of these ingredients and recipes and how they came to be. He really was a wealth of information and entertainment all to himself.

Red and Green Salsa

Then it was time for the salsas. We made two salsas; fresh green salsa with a more spicy kick and a rich, smokey red salsa. The green salsa was my absolute favourite. I could have eaten it all day with anything! Despite only having five ingredients, the way it was prepared made it taste like the most complex and amazing thing you ever put in your mouth!

To make the red salsa, we used a molcajete, a stone tool like the American mortar and pestle. We learned all about how to care for a molcajete and saw three different ones that Beto owned; one was his own, one was his mother’s, and the last, his grandmother’s. Each one looked the same and yet different, the older they got, the smoother their surface. It was like working with a piece of his family’s history.

Tamales

Next up were the tamales! Every morning on the streets, you’ll see hundreds of men and women either on bikes or set up on street corners selling tamales. Tamales are super popular at breakfast time since they are hearty, cheap and SAFE to eat (since they are made by continually steaming the food, keeping it sanitary). The recipe for tamales is thought to date all the way back to Mesoamerica in around 5000 BC. A ‘tamal’ is made from corn masa, which is filled with either meat, cheese, or vegetables.

Corn Tortillas

Finally, it was time for us to learn how to make tortillas from scratch! Despite meeting our amazing tortilla maker, there is just nothing like fresh tortillas hot off the grill. We had such a good time learning when to flip the tortillas and how to make them puff up in the perfect way! It was a busy, laugh-inducing experience that had us all grinning ear to ear.

Cocktails

Now that all our recipes were finished, it was time for a drink! Beto made us all a Paloma, served with traditional Mexican tequila and finished with a slice of grapefruit and a pink peppercorn salted rim!

After all this busy cooking, it was nice to sit down and enjoy each other’s company. We had chatted a bit with our fellow cooks, but while we started to dig into the beef tacos, we finally had the chance to talk more in-depth and learn all about them. It was one of the guest’s birthdays the day we were there, and we had many “happy birthday” cheers and made the entire night a big celebration! It felt like having dinner with friends by the end of the night.

Rooftop Dinner

After we were finished cooking, we were escorted upstairs to the rooftop garden and dining table. The beautiful table was laid out under the jacaranda tree. Despite the tree not being in bloom when we visited, there were plenty of other plants and flowers on the rooftop to make us feel like we were dining in a tropical forest.

The meal was served with some incredible Mexican wine and fresh hibiscus juice, which paired perfectly with everything on the table! We dove right into the food, so quickly in fact that I completely forgot to take a picture of my beautiful plate. But here is a shot of our smiling faces which say it all.

The mole was served with shredded chicken. We eat it along with some incredible garlic rice we made earlier. Atop the mole you absolutely must dress it with a sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds and thinly sliced onions. Both these two items seem to make such a massive difference in the flavour. I have had mole a few times and have to say it’s not always my favourite. Often it’s just too sweet. But this mole was perfect, not too sweet, not too bitter, and so flavourful!

Tequila & Mezcal

The end of the meal was finished off with a tequila and mezcal flight. We tried some truly unique varieties, some of which you couldn’t even find in stores! This is the perfect ‘sobremesa.’ A sobremesa is a Spanish tradition of relaxing at the table after a heavy meal. We sipped our liqueurs and asked everyone about their time in the city. We shared our favourite food spots and sights in the city, and I made more than a few notes of restaurants to try out next time we’re in town!

I hope this gives you some insight into what a day with Beto and the Casa Jacaranda is like. So if you’re like me and were on the fence about whether or not you should book this experience, it helps you make your decision. And honestly, DO NOT HESITATE to book it ASAP. This is more than a cooking class. It is a day out with friends. A historical lecture. A DELICIOUS home-cooked meal. An insightful study of Mexican food. And best of all, a learning experience you can bring home with you to share with your family and friends.

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