Honestly any day you’re in town this is a great way to spend an afternoon. But if you’re looking for something chill and fun for your first day this is the Taco Tour for you! La Condesa is a super safe and really relaxing neighbourhood inside bustling Mexico City. This part of town eases you into the history and culture of Mexico City all through food!

About The Taco Stops

All the stops we’ll make along the are established restaurants, so you won’t need to flex any street food savvy just yet. While street food is incredible in Mexico City and something I really recommend everyone try, I realize on your first day you might want to start slow, with more easy-to-find and order at stops. A little bit of Spanish goes a long way as many of these shops don’t have servers that speak English. That being said, since we’re in a touristy area, a few of the restaurants actually have English menus.

DIY Taco Tour La Condesa Map

List of Restaurants:

1. Taquería Orinoco
2. El Pescadito
3. Tacos Don Juan
5. Taquería El Califa
6. Taqueria El Greco
7. Tacos Hola El Güero

Taquería Orinoco

We start our tour in the north of La Condesa, inside Taquería Orinoco. Taquería Orinoco serves up Northern-style tacos. Their menu is tiny, with three types of meat; trompo (al pastor pork), res (beef), and chicharron (fried pork skin). You can order each flavour on a maize (corn) or harina (flour) tortilla. Or even opt for the crispy tostada. In the north, eating a flour tortilla is expected, so if you want to go for the traditional version you’ll order the harina. 

Once you’re seated, either side or outside, they’ll bring you a large platter of their salsas, which are some of my favourites! Get a glass of freshly made agua fresca (I recommend the hibiscus flavour) to wash it all down! Remember, this is just the first stop, so be sure to only order one taco; you can always come back for more.

Address: Avenue Yucatan 3, Hipódromo
Cost: 24-36 pesos/taco

El Pescadito

Take a walk west along with Avenue Álvaro Obregón until you arrive at Parque Espana. This is a beautiful little parkette worth exploring if you’re taking your time along this Taco Tour. Just off the Parque Espana is the famous El Pescadito. El Pescadito is a little chain in Mexico City that specializes in fish tacos! You’ll know you’ve arrived when you see the cheery face of their fish mascot above the sign on the door beckoning you to enter!

The fish on offer here is the smoked marlin which has the most indearing pink colour against the yellow corn tortillas. They also serve up my favourite which are the shrimp (camarón) tacos. You can also get the campechano taco which combines battered fish and shrimp, so you can try both the options! The best of both worlds. One of my favourite aspects of this restaurant is the toppings bar! Here you can get everything from pickled red onions to shredded cabbage, hot sauce and loads of limes! All self-serve so you can really customize your own perfect taco.

Address: Calle Atlixco 38, Colonia Condesa
Cost: 46 pesos/taco

Tacos Don Juan

Directly across the street from El Pescadito is another hot spot in La Condesa; Tacos Don Juan! Hidden under a small, unassuming sign inside an old art deco-inspired building is a family-run joint with a handwritten menu that changes daily. Make sure you place an order for the quesabirria taco. Birria is beef stew, and the tacos are made from this incredibly tender and flavourful meat. The Quesabirria taco is served with a scoop of meat, then covered in cheese and given a quick fry-up on the grill. What you’re left with is this incredible crispy yet still moist taco that is bursting with flavour!

Address: Calle Atlixco 42, Colonia Condesa
Cost: 46 pesos/quesabirria taco

Walk south along Calle Atlixco until you reach Avenue Tamaulipas. From here, it’s only one block east to our next stop; . claims to be where tacos Al Pastor were first invented. However, almost all shops selling tacos Al Pastor seem to make this claim. Nonetheless, this is one of my favourite places to try out the famous taco.

Tacos Al Pastor was more than likely invented in Puebla in 1930. It was made by a Lebanese immigrant family who introduced the concept of shawarma and roasting meat upright on a spit to the Mexican people. The distinct red colour of the meat is made from marinating the meat in achiote paste. This popular marinade is made from annatto seeds, pepper, cumin, coriander, oregano, garlic and cloves. Once the meat is cooked, it’s shaved off the spit giving it the most intoxicating slightly burnt, crispy flavour. The tacos are served with a fresh slice of pineapple, onion, and cilantro. The meat here is super fresh, and I love how they top it off with their tasty salsas.

Address: Avenue Tamaulipas 122, Colonia Condesa, 
Cost: 27 pesos/taco

Taquería El Califa

At the edge of La Condesa sits a huge taco instituion Taquería El Califa. This is one of the big “grill joints” in town where you can get a ton of different types of tacos. The restaurant is as big as its menu with two floors of seating. Although there are lots of different options, for me, this is where to come to get beef tacos. The bistec (marinated flat iron beef) and costilla (beef rib) are very thin slices of beef, quickly grilled up and placed onto a taco. You can dress it up at the table with their various toppings to your preference. I would be sure some onions and avocado, as the pairing is absolutely perfect.

Address: Altata 22, Hipódromo, Cuauhtémoc
Cost: 30 pesos/taco

Taqueria El Greco

Head diagonally west across Avenue Nuevo León towards the intersection of Avenue Michoacán. Here you’ll find Taqueria El Greco which is home to the original Arabian bread tacos. Their Doneraky tacos are made in an Arab style using a pita instead of a tortilla. Another gift from the Lebanese immigrants who came to Mexico City in the 30s. They would change the taco game forever by introducing these new takes on the classic taco. The roasted meat is so tender and fresh and the softness of the fluffy pita absorbs all the fatty drippings making it such a delight to eat! Get it along with cheese and avocado for an absolute taste sensation!

Address: Av Michoacán 54-Local B – 91 And 92, Hipódromo,
Cost: 76 pesos/taco with cheese and avocado

Tacos Hola El Güero

The infamous Hola Tacos is just a block down from El Greco, around the corner on Amsterdam Avenue. This taco shop specializes in Guisado tacos. Guisado means “stew” in Spanish. Various ingredients are marinaded for hours and hours, making them super juicy, flavourful and tender. But you can get much more than just meat there. If they still have any of the nopales (cactus pads) available when you arrive (which they might not as this sells out quickly), I would highly advise trying them out. Nopales are a popular filling and topping on tacos. But I find the stew they make here with them adds so much flavour to the nopales than when they are only grilled. The stewed Poblanas peppers with cream is also one of my favourites!

Address: Amsterdam 135, Hipódromo, Cuauhtémoc
Cost: 23 pesos/taco

We end our tour here on Amsterdam Avenue, across from Parque Mexico. This is the perfect place to take a rest after all those tacos. Take a seat under the pergola around the Teatro Lindbergh or inside the peaceful Audiorama. As you digest, think about your favourite taco of the day and let me know in the comments if you managed to finish the tour! Or if you had to come back for more

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate DIY Taco Tour of La Condesa, Mexico City; a Foodie’s Dream! first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

There has never been anything I’d been so quick to review. During my most recent stay in Mexico City, I was travelling solo. Whenever I’m alone, I love to join a group tour. While I do personally enjoy my solitude, I also enjoy meeting new people and getting to experience new adventures with others. I knew a food tour was in order, as I think there is no better way to get to know someone than having a meal with them! But it took me a while to find a tour that really piqued my interest. But then I found Eat Like a Local.

About Eat Like a Local

Eat Like a Local is a female-owned Mexico City Food Tour company that strives to be one of the best in sustainable tourism. It pays its female-only employees a proper wage and supports female-owned businesses in the market places. Plus, part of the tour price helps young girls go to school to learn to speak English. Providing them with a rich education that sets them up to succeed and grow. Any extra money the tour company earns goes towards sending some of the girls to go on a trip of their own. Anywhere around the world. Allowing them to see the same world of travel, they help tourists experience in their own city.

Giving back to the Community

The company even uses part of the tour price to support the infrastructure of the marketplaces. Helping to improve them. So many tours I saw listed seem to use the marketplaces as a tourist attraction. These tours don’t actively view the marketplace as a real place of work and community. While eating inside the marketplace is great to support the individual businesses, supporting the infrastructure where they work is a sign of a true venture into sustainable tourism. So with all that in mind, and a promise of some truly phenomenal street food, I booked my ticket and joined the tour.

The Best Foor Tour in Mexico City!

1. About Eat Like a Local
2. The Tour Details
3. The Overall Experience
4. La Condesa
5. Taking the Metro
6. Jamaica Market
7. La Merced Market
8. Juarez Gelato Shop

The Tour Details

Cost

Eat Like a Local offers three different food “safaris” for you to choose from. Each one costs $115 USD. This covers all the food you’ll eat on the tour as well as your transportation. I opted for the Mexican Food 101 tour as it seemed to cover the widest variety of food. They also have a Flower Market and Mezcal tasting tour but since I don’t drink very much I thought that one might not be for me. There is also a street food at night tour that I really can’t wait to check out next time I’m in town!

When you book, you’ll only pay half of the total tour price online via their website. The other half you MUST pay in CASH upon meeting the guide. They use this cash to pay for the food along the way. So it’s essential to bring the right amount of money when you arrive at the meeting point. Don’t think you can just stop at the ATM after the tour is over.

How Big is the Tour

Like any good tour group, the size of the group is small. This means you have a much more intimate experience. But with the guide and the rest of the group. I cannot stress enough how the five of us felt like old friends by the end of the day. I even knew all their kids’ names! Small tour groups really are a sign of a great experience to come.

How Long is the Tour?

The entire tour lasted about four hours. In that time we covered a lot of ground (thanks to hopping on and off the metro.) They say that you’ll walk about 4.5 miles throughout the tour. I loved all the walking as it really helped make room for more food! Dress comfortably, and wear good walking shoes. Be sure this means closed-toe shoes since the marketplaces can get wet.

A Note about Safety

When booking the tour, one of the things that both intrigued, excited and made me a bit nervous was the fact we would travel via the metro. I had long wanted to experience taking the metro in Mexico City. But after hearing so many stories about how dangerous it was, I was always hesitant. But my tour guide Panda made the experience fear-free and super explanatory for future trips. The metro was so efficient and I never felt unsafe. And aside from drawing attention to ourselves as a group of loud English speakers on a tour, I don’t think anyone would have given us a second look.

I was careful to bring only my phone with me and kept it in a bag with an internal zip when required. Panda was great about letting us know when we should be more careful. Just like any big city, some areas are more prevalent with pickpockets. The largest market in Barcelona is a huge hot spot for pickpockets, so don’t think it’s just CDMX. I never felt the least bit afraid anywhere we went on the tour. So don’t let their overly cautious advice put you off! Use common sense, leave your large camera at home and don’t wear or bring anything flashy. Our tour guide also took lots of pictures and even emailed them to us afterwards. So if you wanted to just leave everything at home, and immense yourself, you’ll still get lots of souvenir pictures to take home.

Accessibility

This tour might be challenging if you’re travelling in a wheelchair or have issues with accessibility. Both are due to the distance covered and the lack of accessible entrances in various parts of the marketplace. But, you can absolutely reach out to the tour company directly to book a private tour. They do lots of private tours and they will be able to curate a specific tour just for you.

Bathrooms

I am definitely someone who has a small bladder, so bathroom breaks are always imperative for longer tours. There were plenty of stops along the way for bathrooms. Don’t hesitate to ask if you need to use one. Most of the bathrooms inside the marketplace cost 5 pesos to enter, so bring a bit of change to use them. Our guide also had some coins for those who didn’t have any on them.

Dietary Restrictions

The tour states they can accommodate all different dietary restrictions, including vegetarian and gluten-free. Be sure to let them know in advance. This way, they can ensure something will be available for you at every stop. We had a vegetarian with us on our tour, and it was so fun to see all the different alternatives to our dishes. He definitely had to skip one of two stops but there were plenty of options at most places. And honestly, there is so much food on tour, missing out on one or two places might actually be a good idea!

The Overall Experience

Their website lists all the different types of food you’ll taste along the way, so I’m not giving anything away by detailing my experience here. I wanted to share the wonderful stories from my experience as a means to encourage those travelling to Mexico City to book a tour for themselves. But also as a way for those who read my blog to feel immersed in another world to travel along with me. Even if they can’t go themselves. Even if I did give you step-by-step instructions on where to go, you’d never be able to explore these places for yourself. There are too many hidden secrets and tiny sellers that only locals can guide you to.

La Condesa

We met up in La Condesa to start the tour off right with a coffee! This gave us all a chance to meet each other and get to know our guide. Our guide, Panda, was one of the most hilarious and fun people I’d ever met. From the minute she starting she felt like an old school friend and had us all smiling from ear to ear. After grabbing our coffees, we needed a little sweet treat. So we set out for pastries! We stopped at a Condesa institution which sells concha (sweet bread.) The perfect starter to get our stomachs prepped.

Tacos de Canasta

Next, we explored two different street food stalls in La Condesa. One was selling the classic breakfast staple Tacos de Canasta, aka sweaty tacos. These tacos are made by filling a taco with stew and bathing them in oil or butter. They are then layered up inside baskets and sold all over the city. Sometimes on the back of bicycles, but in this case at a street food stall.

The man working here had been selling them for over 35 years!! He is so popular that he made enough money selling these tacos to be able to send his kids to university! Here you had the options of a variety of fillings, from pork to potato and chicharron. Once you pick your filling, you could smother them in hot sauce. I was so surprised by how delicious they were. I had never tried tacos de canasta before because I thought they’d be soggy. But that wasn’t the case at all! I could have honestly eaten a dozen. But knew I had to save room in my stomach, as this was only our second stop!

Mixiotes

The next stop was tacos mixiotes. Mixiotes are made from stewing meat inside an agave leaf bag. The meat was so flavourful, seasoned with a mixture of all different chillies. This stand had almost a dozen other toppings you could add to your taco. I wanted to really savour the flavour of the meat, so I just went with a few slices of nopales (cactus) pads. And, of course, a squeeze of lime and hot sauce.

It was about now that I realized I would never be able to finish everything we sampled at this rate. As much as I wanted to because everything we ate was delicious. Thankfully, Panda, our guide, stepped in and told us no one would be offended if we didn’t finish. And we could split what we could share, or she could ask the vendor for a smaller portion. I felt so relieved as I’m always so worried that my small stomach and inability to always finish what’s on my plate is apt to offend the cook!

Taking the Metro

After this stop, we hopped onto the metro at Baldera station. I had been pretty nervous about riding the metro. But from the minute we descended down into the station, I realized how perfectly normal and unintimidating it was. All your tickets are paid for upon entering, but Panda took us through how to buy your tickets and use the system in case you want to ride the metro on your own after the tour.

The metro platforms were incredibly clean and actually super pretty to look at. The floors and walls were made of beautiful stone that looked like the station were carved out of the ground. While we were on tour, the metro was fairly empty, only getting busy near mid-afternoon. Most of the time, we could all get seats with no problem. When the cars were super full, we simply waited for the next train. They come very frequently so we had no trouble getting enough space and feeling safe. Interesting to note that there are also female-only train cars. These are marked on the floor of the station platform with pink signs marked with “Solo Dames y Menores de 12 Anos.”

Jamaica Market

The next stop on tour was inside Jamaica Market! Although you might read the word “Jamaica” and think of the country, Jamaica actually means “hibiscus flower” in Spanish. The Jamaica Market is home to the largest flower market in the city, with over 1,150 stalls selling over 5,000 different varieties of flowers! Almost all of them grown around Mexico.

The market is divided into two different areas; the first is almost devoid of flowers entirely and primarily sells produce, meat and other grocery staples. When you cross over to the second section of the market, you’re immediately overwhelmed with the smell of flowers. Before you can even see the flowers, you’ll know you’ve arrived.

Tacos Carnitas & Tepache

Our first stop was at a long communal table right at the market entrance. Pig heads hung in the butcher shops down the aislse, and you knew right away this was the place to get pork! The order was simple, tacos de carnitas, topped with raw onions and cilantro. While I thought I’d had carnitas before, after tasting this, it felt like I had never eaten them before in my life. This was the best-tasting taco I’ve ever eaten, and I still dream about it! While we were eating, Panda explained to us the myths about why you are almost always given two tortillas with every serving of tacos. But I’ll leave that tidbit for you to discover on tour…

To pair with our tacos, we got to sample tepache. Tepache is a fermented pineapple drink made from the peel and the rind of pineapples and refined cane sugar. It had that tang you get from other fermented drinks like kombucha. It was super sweet but so delicious and definitely cleansed the palette from the fatty pork tacos. The perfect combination!

Jicaleta

Next up, we walked around the market to the brightly coloured bins of what looked like powdered sugar. Beside these pins were huge round discs on popsicle sticks that looked like white lollipops with the words “Rico Jicaleta.” I have seen these signs all over the city and always wondered what they were! It turns out the giant thing on a popsicle stick is a Jicama, a root vegetable.

To convince kids to eat their vegetables, someone came up with the genius idea to cover the jicama with chamoy (pickled plum with chile sauce) and then dip the veggie in powdered sugar. Since the jicama is pretty neutral in its flavouring it allows itself to be the vehicle for these amazing flavours of powered sugar. Everything as simple as strawberry or blueberry to more exciting flavours like mango chilli and tamarind. You can even use the other colours to create a cool rainbow-like pattern on the jicama. I can see why these are such a popular treat with both kids and adults.

Piñata Market

Next up on tour, we walked deeper into the marketplace amongst hundreds and hundreds of piñatas. The Jamaica market is known for its huge piñatas selection. Design range from traditional stars to cartoon characters. And I even saw a covid one! What a perfect thing to bash away at, a way of taking out all the pent up frustration over the loss of the last two years.

Chorizo Verde

Sitting down outside a small shop beside piles of bright fruits and vegetables, we tried what I thought was the most incredible taco innovation of the whole tour; green chorizo! The proud owner displayed all his different types of chorizo sausages outside the shop. But none were as eye wateringly delicious to look at as the green chorizo. The pork-based sausage is mixed with a blend of fresh green veggies like spinach and lettuce. Then zesty green herbs are added to ramp the flavour up. Anything from cilantro, thyme, marjoram, whatever is in season.

After this they add green chillies (because heat is a staple of the chorizo sausage) and the most important and unique ingredient – NUTS! Yes, that’s right, they add anything from peanuts to pumpkins seeds or almonds to the meat. We ate it completely plain to start to ensure we could appreciate the flavour of all the ingredients. And OMG, I cannot explain how incredible this was. Truly one of the most unique and surprising parts of the tour. I wish I could remember where this was so I could go back to eat more!

Heading down to the other side of the market, we stopped at a few more stalls for some tiny samples as we went. Crispy tortillas covered in locally made crema y queso (cream cheese) and a bite of chicharrón (deep-fried pork skin).

Fresh Fruit Stalls

On the other side of the market, where the smell of flowers filled the air, we stopped for a selection of fresh fruit. The fruit was just what the doctor ordered to change things up and refresh my palette. I always admire the beautiful spreads at these fruit stands when I pass by. So many different fruits I’ve never tried, let alone seen before. Lucky for me, when we stopped, the friendliest man came out from behind the piles of fruit with these little banana leaf trays. Inside were slices of all kinds of fruits. Panda took us through what each bite was, and we dove in.

My taste buds were exploding. I couldn’t believe how delicious some of these fruits were, things I’d never tried before, which set my mouth alight. My favourite by far was the Soursop, which was tangy, sweet, and, as the name indicates, sour. I need to find this in Toronto! And my other favourite was the black zapote, which tastes like chocolatey permission pudding! The Chirimoya blew my mind as it tasted like a strawberry blended with a kiwi. I was truly entranced by all the flavours and vowed to make more of an effort to buy fresh fruit next time I’m in town.

Wholesale Flowers

Walking around the flower market was the best kind of chaos. We didn’t have a ton of time to admire the flowers; this is a working market, after all. People were milling about, grabbing carfuls of flowers for their stands in the city and small bouquets for their homes. Voices cried over one and other as people haggled for the best price.

During the Day of the Dead ceremonies, this market is packed to the rooftops with trucks full of orange Mexican marigolds. These are the most popular flower synonymous with the festival. They are used to decorate the ofrendas of past loved ones as the brightly coloured flowers are thought to guide the spirits of those who have passed back home.

As we moved through the crowds of people, we arrived at the back, where the larger floral displays are located. These are for celebrations like communions and quinceaneras in addition to funerals and weddings. But apparently, one of the most popular reasons people buy huge floral displays is to apologize for cheating on their wives…or at least that’s what Panda told us! The bigger the arrangement, the more sorry you are!

Esquites

The next stop on tour was for a cup of esquites fritos. Esquites are fire-roasted corn kernels, stewed in lard, and mixed with aromatic herbs and arbol chillies. I’ve had esquites many times before, as they are one of my favourite street snacks, but none as delicious as the ones we got here! There are definitely some secret ingredients at work here.

Before leaving the market, we stopped at a tortilla maker cranking out hundreds of perfect corn circles every hour. There is genuinely nothing more fresh than eating a hot tortilla right off the press. With nothing more than a sprinkle of salt, you can really appreciate how simple and complex the flavours are. And why this tiny disc has become such a staple of Mexican food throughout the centuries.

La Merced Market

After a quick bathroom break, we hopped back on the metro. We transferred from the teal line (#4) to the pink line (#1) and made our way directly into the Mercados de la Merced. Mercados de la Merced, or La Merced Market, has its own dedicated metro stop. And unlike other metro stations where you need to exit onto the street to get to your next destination, this stop exits right into the heart of the market. This is actually the only way you should enter the market. The exterior streets around here are a little dangerous but by entering directly inside, you avoid the exterior entirely.

History of the Market

La Merced Market is named after the monastery of Nuestra Señora de la Merced de Redención de Cautivos. The monastery was established here in 1594, just after the Spanish Conquest. The neighbourhood that sprang up around the monastery also goes by the name La Merced. After the conquest, this part of the city, being just on the outskirts (before the expansion of what is now CDMX), was a hotbed for traders. They would arrive here from all different parts of the country and beyond. They could easily dump their goods here for sale and transfer further into the central part of the city.

By 1860, almost the entire neighbourhood was one big market. So the city decided to move the marketplace into a permanent, covered building. By now, the old La Merced Monastery has been closed down for years. But the empty building proved to be the perfect place to establish the new permanent market.

20th Century Market

In the 20th century, the market continued to expand becoming one of the largest wholesale markets in the city. Here you can find everything from fruit, vegetables, meat, poultry, toys, clothes, flowers, candy and more.

Sadly, there is a dark history to the building as well. In 1988 a fireworks stall exploded inside the marketplace, killing more than 60 people! Then again, in 1998, there was another fire due to faulty wiring that destroyed much of the old main hall and 572 stalls. Luckily no one was killed in that fire, but the damage was extensive. Despite the accident occurring almost 20 years ago, repairs are still ongoing.

Just in front of the entrance to the market from the metro station, you’ll see a cheerful cartoon map of the marketplace. Each different section of the market is dedicated to a different specialty, so you know exactly where to go for what. I was immediately drawn to the candy section and was delighted to hear we would be stopping in there near the end of the tour.

Insects

Our first stop inside the market threw us right into the deep end of Mexican cuisine, at the Insectos stand. Yes, that’s right, bugs! I actually really like bugs as food; I’ve had them a few times around the world and find the flavour pretty interesting. If you don’t want to try them, just politely say no. Don’t make a big show of being grossed out or anything like that. Insects have been eaten and used in cooking here for centuries. It’s disrespectful to act disgusted by a kind of food they consider pretty normal.

I do recommend trying them at least once. And when you stop here at the stall, they also give you a glass of freshly pressed pineapple juice to chase down the bugs. In case it’s just not for you. My favourite was the crickets, but I was actually surprised how much I liked the little worms! The scorpion was the least tasty, a little too earthy for my liking, but I’m sure it would be great in other dishes.

Micheladas

We walked through the crowds of stalls towards the outer edge of the market, along Rosario street. Despite being a working street, with cars and lorries driving through, it also feels like an extension of the marketplace. Stalls pour out onto the streets with their wares leaning out so far they almost touch either side of the road. It’s so tight that often when a big truck comes thru, some stores need to move things they’re selling back inside to allow the cars to pass. It’s a very cool bit of choreography to watch.

We took a seat inside a casual bar where we gathered around a large table, welcomed by the smiles of the locals. Then we were given a series of brightly colours bowls, jars and glass bottles, like a modern-day apothecary in the centre of Mexico City. We were greeted by the amazingly kind Arely, one of the girls from the 80IQ program. 80IQ is a program created by the Eat Like a Local founder that funds the education of these young women and where they also receive mentoring.

With her adorable son in tow, Arley came to our table to practice speaking English and teach us to make a Mexican Michelada. Micheladas are such a fun beverage to make and we loved learning all the steps and ingredients that go into it! First, cover the rim in chamoy and dip in caramelized sesame seeds. Next, add more chamoy, Worcestershire, and hot sauce then filled the glass with a cold beer! Since I don’t drink beer, so I was given a glass of fizzy pineapple juice, and let me tell you mixture was just as delicious!!! We took this chance to enjoy our cold drinks, a refreshing break from the heat of the day. We grabbed for a bit, chatting with Arley and even celebrating an anniversary in our little group!

Quesadillas

From here, Arley handed us over to Wendy, another girl from the program. Wendy spoke incredibly well at only 14 years old and was such a great guide! She took us to her grandmother’s street food stall, where a series of women bustling around a hot comal. They went about serving us bite-size pieces of a variety of classic Mexican street food samples.

Huitlacoche

The one I was most excited about trying were the quesadillas. Although this might not seem very exotic, the filling inside the quesadilla was ‘huitlacoche‘ or, as it is known in English, corn smut! Huitlacoche is considered a delicacy in Mexico, even though it might not seem very appetizing. The word comes from the Nahuatl language and means “sleeping excrescence,” because the corn is transformed by a fungus that impedes them from developing. Thus, they remain “sleeping.” If the fungus doesn’t sound appealing to you, I’d ask, “well, have you ever eaten mushroom?” because the flavour is essentially the same. I couldn’t believe how complex the flavour was, and I was so happy I had finally been able to sample it! 

Pambazo

We also got quesadillas with squash blossoms filled with cheese from Oaxaca. Then there was a slice of tlacoyo filled with black beans and covered in requeson (like ricotta cheese) and more nopales. The last item on the place was Pambazo. The pambazo sandwich is apparently the most authentic Mexico City street food. One that originated here. It is made from a white bun that has been dipped in adobo sauce and then filled with chorizo, cheese, cream and lettuce.

Candy

After all this, I thought there was no way I’d ever be able to get up. But somehow, we shuffled out of the tiny chairs outside the street food stall and bid a sad farewell to Wendy’s family. They waved goodbye to us with big smiles as we headed back into the crowded marketplace. But I perked up as we learned we were on our way to the candy district. There are many reasons I love Mexico City, but one of them has got to be their love of bulk candies. You can find little carts wheeling around the neighbourhood every day. Filled with candy fills at the ready for your cravings. But here in the marketplace must be where they all come to load up these carts every morning.

Candies exploded out of bins and baskets in rainbow colours everywhere we looked. We sampled a few unique varieties like dried mango with chilis, tamarind candies, spicy candied almonds and, of course, lots and lots of flavoured powdered sugar. My favourites are these little fruit-shaped gummies that look like they are made of glass. Almost too pretty to eat! I could honestly have been here for hours, but I was too full to try anything more, lucky for my blood sugar.

Juarez Gelato Shop

To arrive at our last stop on tour, we hopped once more on the metro and made our way over to the Juarez neighbourhood. This part of town is just starting to become a new hot spot for hip eateries. We stopped at one of the chicest gelato shops, where we were greeted by flavours out of this world. Tamarind & mezcal, Oaxacan chocolate, cempasúchil (marigold), tonka bean, olive oil, lavender, and even epazote elato leaf are just some of the falvours that are on rotation here. We got to sample any three flavours we wanted. Although I had felt like I couldn’t eat another bite earlier, there seems to always be a second stomach for dessert.

This was our last stop, so we all just sat around chatting while eating our ice cream. None of us wanted to leave. We had all really become friends by the end of the day. Panda gave us all her recommendations based on the questions we asked along the way. After much hesitation, we all eventually parted ways! Leaving with full bellies, smiles on our faces, and lots of stories to share with our friends and family. The perfect end to the perfect tour.

To Tip or Not to Tip?

Tipping is always a considerate thing to do at the end of a tour just as at the end of a meal. It’s a way to say “thank you” to the guide for their time, effort and expertise. While it’s not required, it is appreciated. Don’t feel the need to financially burden yourself but honestly, even a little bit goes a long way to show your appreciation.

I truly can’t say enough good things about this tour and I really hope if you get the chance to visit Mexico City you put booking this Mexico City Food Tour with Eat Like a Local at the top of your list!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Best Street Food Tour in Mexico City! first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

But if you’re just looking to dip your toe into street food, as you’re a little hesitant to eat an entire meal, Mexican Street Snacks are a great alternative! Plus, these snacks can really fill you up if you manage to sample a little bit of everything. Below are a few of my favourite Mexican Street Snacks! Keep your eyes out for these reliably delicious and traditional treats.

Mexican Street Snacks

1. Fresh Fruit Vendors
2. Chicharron
3. Duritos
4. Dorilocos
5. Papas
6. Paletas
7. Snack Cart
8. Tamarind Candies
9. Mangonada
10. La Molienda
11. Vero Mango
12. Slaps Lollipop
13. Mazapanes de la Rosa
14. Takis
15. Pepitoria
16. Churros

Fresh Fruit Vendors

My favourite treat is always found at the fruit vendors. Their food carts are always easy to spot as they feature vibrant red or striped umbrellas. Underneath, their glass front carts are filled with brightly coloured fruits like watermelon, mango, pineapple and papaya.

After selecting what kind of fruit you want the vendor will ask you if you want the traditional toppings. This includes; lime, salt and chilli. I know what you’re going to say, “salt and chilli on fruit?!” and I know it sounds strange, but if you’ve never tried it, you need to try it at least once. The salt contrasts the sweet fruits so perfectly! And the hint of spice adds another level of flavour.

Another topping often drizzled on top of the fruit is chamoy. Chamoy is a savoury condiment made from pickled fruit. The flavour is salty, sweet, sour, and spiced with chilis. It’s wonderful and something you need to try at least once!

Chicharron

Chicharron can be found in two different varieties. One is a large piece of pigskin, which has been deep-fried. It looks like a giant piece of foam insulation, but I promise it’s more than edible. Chicharron also comes in a bite-size variety if you prefer not to eat one large piece. The fried skin is doused in chilli sauce and freshly squeezed lime juice. (You’re starting to see a pattern with the lime and chilli aren’t you?)

Duritos

Duritos (not to be mixed up with Doritos) are pinwheel-shaped snacks. They are definitely the most adorable of all the Mexican Street Snacks. The treat is made from deep-frying a wheat-based batter into these cute little shapes. They are crunchy and very addictive. Top it with hot sauce and lime to crank up the flavour.

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Dorilocos

Also found at the chips stands is a dish called Dorilocos. This invention was actually made right here in Mexico City in recent years. It consists of a bag of Doritos sliced open and topped with various fresh ingredients. These can be anything from carrots, cucumber, peanuts, radishes, corn, and peanuts. Then you can add sauces like chamoy, Valentina and of course a fresh squeeze of lime. It’s eaten with a fork and looks like a chip salad!

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Papas

For something a little more simple, hit up the Papas stands. Papas are freshly made potato chips. There is really nothing like fresh potato chips and these really make bagged chips seem so sub-par. Once more, they are offered with a topping of hot sauce and lime if you want.

Paletas

On a hot day, the best thing you can get is a cool Paleta. These are frozen fruit bars made with fresh and natural ingredients. They are made with either milk or fruit juice base. You’ll often even find chunks of fresh fruit, like strawberry and mango, inside the pop. My favourite has got to the mango and chilli!

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Snack Cart

When I first walked around the Parque Mexico in La Condesa, I couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw a man pushing a huge blue cart chock-a-block full of sweets and nuts. I have the world’s largest sweet tooth and couldn’t resist walking about to see what was on offer. I was a bit shy, as I didn’t know how to order. But after just pointing to a few items, he placed them in a bag and handed them over to me for what felt like pennies! The candies were mostly fresh, save for a few outliers, but more than worth what I paid.

You can also usually find some candies pre-packaged and, therefore, a set price. Easier for people who don’t speak much Spanish. We would pick these pre-packaged sweets up anytime we saw them, trying to get a taste of every different flavour. While the candies are the easiest to identify, you should try so many other things. Red chile plantains, cinnamon almonds, roasted pumpkin seeds and more can all be found on these carts!

Tamarind Candies

Mexico is known for their super unique candy. Found at busy parks you’ll always find lots of vendors selling brightly packaged sweets. If you’ve never tried Mexican candy before, you need to give them a try. They are all so cheap you don’t have much to lose. One of the most popular varieties is tamarin-based snacks. Look for brands like Tama-Roco, Pulparindo or Pelón Pelo Rico. For the most part, they contain a sweet tamarind paste combined with other flavours. Tamarind candy has a sweet and sour taste and I found it pretty addictive. There is also Salsaghetti which is watermelon candy in the shape of spaghetti noodles. And it comes with a packet of “sauce” which is, of course, made of more tamarind paste.

Mangonada

Often seen next to the prepackaged tamarind candies are empty plastic cups with a bright yellow straw covered in thick red paste. This is a Banderilla Tamarindo, a straw-covered in a sweet, spicy tamarind paste and rolled in chilli powder. They are used to drink the famous mangonadas that are sure to cool you down on a hot day! The mangonadas are made from fresh mangoes chopped into a puree. Then the purree is layered inside the cup with chamoy and topped with more fresh mango. As a final flourish, a sprinkling of Tajín (chilli lime salt) is added. All of this is drank through the huge Banderilla Tamarindo. It’s something you can only find in Mexico and a must-try if you see one!

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La Molienda

A simple yet delicious treat is the La Molienda. La Molienda is a coconut candy bar in the colours of the Mexican flag. An excellent choice for almost anyone but a real hit with kids. Plus, the fun colours make it all the most enjoyable to eat.

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Vero Mango

Perhaps the most famous Mexican candy is the Vero Mango. Vero Mango a mango-flavoured candy lollipop, in the shape of a mango. But as these candies can never just be that simple, the lolly is then covered in chile powder! The sweet and spicy balance out perfectly.

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Slaps Lollipop

Everywhere you look, you’ll see these colourful paddle-shaped lollies hanging off the street vendors’ umbrellas. Often held up by vibrant clothes pins. The flat lollipops are placed between plastic wrap as they are actually fairly malleable. They are called Slaps and are the Mexican version of a fruit roll-up. A sweet fruit leather made with pectin. To eat them correctly, once they are out of the plastic, wrap them around the stick like a lollipop or else you’re in for a mess! They taste just like a jolly-rancher.

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Mazapanes de la Rosa

Mazapanes de la Rosa are peanut-based sweets. They are famous for the fact that the crushed peanuts and sugar just crumble upon biting into the little disk. But that crumbly texture is also what makes them such a delight to eat. They are light, sweet and nutty. Absolutely delicious!

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Takis

Ok, now I know Takis has become popular out here in North America in recent years but for many Europeans or people who just might not have tried them before Takis are a must. Takis are a rolled corn tortilla chip known for the spciy and intense flavouring. There is something about corn chips that just hits different and I have to say, I prefer a Takis over Doritos any day! In Mexico there are lots more flavours than in the States so definitely keep your eye out for those unique tastes.

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Pepitoria

Pepitorias were one of my favourite discovering while visiting the historic Dulceria de Celaya candy shop in the Historic Centre. And I was thrilled to see after trying them that there were available all over at these street vendors. Pepitorias are made of crunchie wafers, in a rainbow of colours, and sandwiched between honey or caramel. They are then decorated with little pumpkin seeds that poke their heads out of the wafers. So cheap and so delicious!

Churros

While the trendy Churrería El Moro is known for the world’s best churros, and rightly so, that doesn’t mean it’s the only place where you can find them. Usually found on the weekends or holidays, churro vendors can either be found pushing their large cart of hot oil and dough or seen with their baskets of freshly made churros walking around the park. They are so cheap and really delicious even if they weren’t made right before your eyes. Covered in cinnamon sugar, they are a delight, and you won’t be able to stop eating at just one!

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I hope you enjoyed this little guide of my favourite Mexican Street Snacks. Let me know in the comments what your favourite street snacks were or any foods you want me to cover next!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Complete Guide to Mexican Street Snacks! first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Filigrana

Filigrana is my new favourite brunch spot so I had to update this list to feature it. Walking inside, you are immediately in awe of the environment. The glass walls allow the beautiful morning sun to filter in, creating rainbows of light on the floor. You are immediately greeted by friendly servers and before you’ve ever ordered are brought over to their pastry tray with some of the most inventive and delicious pastries! I had to try at least one even though I knew more food was on the way. Filigrana specialized in Mexican fusion with dishes that combine a variety of different cultures. The tortillas served alongside your meal are made literally on sight and you can see the tortillas makers around the corner from the washroom for some in-house entertainment.

Be sure to sample the licuado de mamey, which is a smoothie made with the Mexican native mamey fruit! So creamy and delicious. For your meal I recommend highly the tostadas, chilaquiles and, of course, some delicious freshly made guacamole served with their fresh tortillas. What is so convenient about Filigrana is the fact you can make easy reservations in advance on Opentable. Especially if you’re visiting on a weekend with a larger group reservations are absolutely mandatory! But they’re not too hard to find if you book up well enough in advance.

Panadería Rosetta

Panadería Rosetta is a café that combines the best of French and European traditions with Mexican ones. The café offers a daily selection of bread, so depending on what day you come by, there is always something extra special to try. They offer both sweet and savoury bread as well as sandwiches, cakes, muffins and more! Everything hidden away in their little glass cases is to die for. Their baked good are so delicious in fact that this bakery delivers their goods to dozens of cafes around town. But I like coming right to the source!

While they have some table service, I love coming to Panadería Rosetta to stock up on various treats and then carry them over to a nearby park to enjoy my spread. Mexico City is home to a plethora of public parks, and they make the perfect spot for a morning picnic! I love nothing more than Sunday brunch in the park as Sunday is when everyone brings out their dogs to play. It’s so much fun to just sit back and watch the adorable little pups playing.

Restaurante El Cardenal

Restaurante El Cardenal is an institution in Mexico City with multiple different locations. The San Ángel location is their newest expansion, and it’s by far my favourite location! El Cardenal was founded in 1969, and the family founders wanted to bring their love of traditional Mexican cuisine to an upscale setting. One of the most luxurious parts of dining inside El Cardenal in San Ángel is the gorgeous architecture. The restaurant is set inside an old colonial mansion. The stained glass windows and gleaming wood floors make just sitting inside such a joy to experience.

To start the perfect breakfast, begin with hot chocolate, not coffee! Their unique hot chocolate is made with famous Doña Oliva chocolate and is like drinking a cup of history. Hot chocolate originated in Mexico and was an essential part of the Aztec culture from 1400 AD. My favourite part about the experience of eating here was the pastry tray. When you come inside a waiter brings you over an enormous tray of sweet pastries. And you can choose, with your own eyes, which pastry you’d want to start off the meal right with.

Another traditional breakfast dish you’ll only find in Mexico is the Egg omelette with escamoles. Escamoles are colloquially called “Mexican caviar,” and are edible ant larvae. Escamoles have been consumed in Mexico since the age of the Aztecs and are high in nutritional value. It’s definitely one of the most unique and classic dishes on the menu. But if that’s not your thing they have many other traditional options for those who aren’t that adventurous.

La Güera Tortas de Chilaquiles

La Güera Tortas de Chilaquiles is one of those local hot spots that is finally getting its due with the international crowds. But sadly, this means the secret is out, and you NEED to get here early for a chance at these fantastic sandwiches. This popup street food stand is set up every morning on the corner of Tamaulipas and Alfonso Reyes in La Condesa. We stumbled upon this place as it was only a few blocks away from our hotel. One piece of advice I almost always follow when travelling is that when you see line up for food, get in line. Especially if the people in line are locals. And I wasn’t disappointed.

A tortas de chilaquiles is a massive breakfast sandwich made to order. When you approach the table their little makeshift assembly line will get to work putting together your sandwich. Inside that perfectly crispy yet pillowy-soft bun are huge handfuls of shredded chicken, fried chicken cutlet, or cochinita pibil (pork). When they ask which meat you want, just point if you don’t know what they’re called. And honestly, it’s all delicious but my preference is always the pibil. On top of the meat, they will slather a layer of crema, crumbled queso fresco, onions and spicy peppers. All for only 35 PESOS!!! That’s less than $2! And the sandwich is enormous, I almost always split the order with my husband.

The only caveat? If you plan to come here on the weekend, be prepared to line up early (like 7 am early). Although the stand won’t start serving until 8am, you’ll see the line before you arrive and you’ll just have to wait patiently. I try to come on the weekdays when things are a little slower.

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Cafe De Tacuba

Cafe De Tacuba is a slice of history carved into the fabric of the Historic District. The café tends to get extremely busy during brunch hours, but it’s worth the wait if you want to try their honey and caramel-layered pancakes with cinnamon. Café de Tacuba has been a hot spot here in the Historic District since 1912. The restaurant gained real notoriety in 1922 when Diego Rivera held his wedding reception to novelist Guadalupe Marín here. Sadly, Rivera would divorce Marín and marry one of the most famous Mexican artists, Frida Khalo. Another notable event that took place here was the assassination of the local governor of Veracruz, Manlio Fabio Altamirano Flores. You might think such an event would put people off, but it only increased the draw.

But it’s not just the history that brings people here. Aside from the fantastic food is the incredible interior design. The interior is covered in fantastical paintings from the pre-Hispanic period. Vibrant mosaics and stained glass windows encircling the space make you feel like dining inside a museum. It’s truly a joy to eat here!

Lalo!

If you want to go to brunch and be guaranteed a smile, then you must visit Lalo! Lalo! is another popular brunch spot located in the Roma neighbourhood. Lalo! is the nickname of the owner and acclaimed chef Eduardo Garcia. Brunch is bustling here, so be prepared to wait a while to get a table but trust me, it’s worth it

Painted on the cafe walls are these incredible colourful, feel-good drawings by Belgian graffiti artist Blue Warrior. They say you eat with your eyes, and being surrounded by these positive and happy-inducing images; you can’t help but eat while filled with pure joy. The most popular items on the menu are their huevos con chorizo and the Huevos fritos con salsa ranchera.

Mercado Medellín

If you’re looking for an uncomplicated yet authentic brunch inside one of the most lively markets, you need to make your way over to Mercado Medellín. The Colonia Roma neighbourhood is also known as “Little Havana” because of the large number of Cuban and Latin American immigrants that live in the area. With this comes an incredible selection of coffee. Inside the market, there are a few different coffee vendors selling the beans and crafting expertly brewed cups of coffee.

On Saturday and Sunday mornings, this market is flush with locals buying food for the week. Fresh fruit and veggie stalls are overflowing with incredible finds in as many colours as the rainbow. There are over 500 stalls in total that sprawl over the vast city block-sized marketplace. Towards the back of the market, past the vendors, you’ll find the food court. The food court is as uncomplicated as you can get, but you’ll have the chance to eat a real typical Mexican breakfast. This includes many dishes with eggs, like Huevos Rancheros, eggs in salsa, eggs with chorizo, chilaquiles, and breakfast tacos. Don’t be scared; the food here is fantastic, not everything has to be posh and pristine. The tacos I had from the ladies cooking on the sidewalk right outside the market were honestly the best breakfast tacos I’ve had in my entire life!

Los Amantes Café & Bistro

Los Amantes Café & Bistro in Coyoacan is a little out of the way if you’re staying in the centre city, but WELL worth the effort to get out there. PLUS, I always recommend spending at least a half-day in the beautiful and colourful neighbourhood of Coyoacan so you can make the most of your trip over here. Situated inside a quaint and cozy corner of Coyoacan, Los Amantes cafe is another tribute to talented grandmothers. The chef’s grandmother taught her as a young child all about the virtues of each ingredient and how to mix them to create the perfect harmony of sweet, savoury and sensational!

Their brunch menu is super trendy and primarily consists of different kinds of bread typically served with local fresh fruits, preserves and cheeses—each item complimenting the next. There were so many fruits I didn’t even recognize, and it was a joy to experience the menu without asking any questions until I was finished! It turns out the Mamey fruit is my new favourite treat!

Lardo

Lardo is a beautiful brunch spot in the La Condesa neighbourhood. It’s located inside the old apartment buildings built by THE Condesa that the district is named after. I love how the restaurants are almost hidden away behind the crawling plants that cover the facade of the building. This area of town is so busy on the weekend, and the ambience outside the restaurant is just intoxicating. The menu features hip Mexican-European fusion food, which is as delicious to eat as it is mesmerizing to look at. 

Don’t leave without trying the Fried egg, chile con carne and avocado. The Mexican deconstructed version of avocado toast. My husband is obsessed with their selection of granola, and their baked granola served with red berries, and almond milk is a playful take on cereal. Reservations are recommended at this place since it’s one of the most popular spots in Condesa.

Pastelería Ideal

Pastelería Ideal, located in the heart of the Historic Centre, is a local haunt where you’ll find people clamouring to buy up everything for their sweet tooth! This bakery is so famous that you might have even seen its iconic blue and white pastry boxes all over the city. Many business and cafes buy up their daily pastries from this shop every morning.

The bakery was founded in 1927 and has been opened in this very spot ever since. They have since opened up three other locations, but this is the original. This bakery has everything from traditional Mexican bread and pastries, cakes and cookies to Parisian puff pastry, viennoiseries, and more! All of this is served up on huge platters towering with treats. Just grab a try and use the tongs provided to serve yourself up some pastries. Once you’re done piling up (they make great breakfast pastries, too), take your collection to the counter. There they will pack them up for you and give you a ticket to pay. After you’ve paid, they’ll wrap your baked good, all perfectly wrapped up to go. Enjoy them back at your hotel or over in the famous Alameda Park!

I hope you enjoyed this list of my favourite exciting, hip and delicious brunch spot in Mexico City. Hopefully, you manage to make your way out to visit a few of them on your next trip to Mexico City. Let me know in the comment if you have any other favourite spots that you never skip when visiting CDMX!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Best Breakfast & Brunch Spots in Mexico City [UPDATED 2023] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

One of the best parts of Mexico City is its sheer size. While some people find this to be a downside, as it might feel overwhelming, I think it’s a huge plus! The various districts and neighbourhoods allow you to feel like you’re visiting a hundred different cities, all in one place. La Condesa is the peaceful botanical garden, Roma Norte is the hipster foodie quarter, Polanco is a luxury shoppers dream, Coyoacan is a bohemian wonderland and last, but not least, the Historic Center (Centro Historico) is the place where it all started! The streets in the Historic Center are brimming with ancient and colonial architecture. It is a place of discovery and authenticity. If you’ve never been to Mexico City before, you need to plan on spending at least one full day exploring this part of town.

Notes About This Guide

I go into lots of details about the different stops on our tour. Use the handy-dandy table of contents to jump to any particular area of interest if you want to skip or only visit some of the locations on this guided walk.

Table Of Contents

1. History of the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan
2. How Long is this Tour?
3. Access
4. Map of Walking Tour
5. Alameda Central
6. Palacio de Bellas Artes
7. Metro Belles Artes
8. Palacio de Correos de México
9. Museo Nacional De Arte (MUNAL)
10. Cafe De Tacuba
11. Plaza de Santo Domingo
12. Old Customs Buildings
13. Palace of the Inquisition
14. Santo Domingo
15. Street Names in Mexico City
16. Secretariat of Public Education Main Headquarters
17. Palacio Nacional
18. West Side, Main Wall 
19. La Casa de las Sirenas
20. Templo Mayor Museum
21. History of the Temple
22. Mexico City Cathedral Metropolitan
23. Zócalo
24. The Old Government Buildings
25. Old Portal de Mercaderes
26. Gran Hotel Ciudad de México
27. Avenue Francisco I. Madero
28. Templo de San Felipe Neri La Profesa
29. Dulcería de Celaya 
30. Palacio de Iturbide
31. Church of San Francisco
32. Casa de Los Azulejos
33. Torre Latinoamericana
34. La Opera Bar
35. Azul Historico
36. Pastelería Ideal

History of the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan

For centuries, the Historic Centre has been the beating heart of Mexico City. It was here, in this area, where the ancient Aztec city of Tenochtitlan once stood. The Aztecs of Tenochtitlan were incredible builders and city planners. They laid out the town in orderly streets, separated into four quarters. In between the streets were great canals that helped water and fertilizer their rich fields and crops. The roads and canal all meet at the grand Templo Mayor in the centre of the city. Inside the temple was the Palace of the Tlatoani (the Aztec emperor). Inside the temple, there was a large school called the Telpuchcalli which was used for secular studies, and a Calmecac that was used for priestly training.

Sadly, the beautiful ancient city of Tenochtitlan was destroyed with the arrival of the Spanish in 1519. They defeated the Aztecs and stole their land. The Spaniards tore down many of their temples and buildings and renamed the streets with Christain prefixes. In addition to the destruction of the city was the removal of their ingenious canal system. Little did the Spanish know, the removal of this modern method of bringing fresh water into the city would result in severe water shortages in the big city. A problem they are still struggling with to this very day! When the Spanish destroyed the Aztec city, they re-used many of the original stones to construct their colonial structures. So pay close attention as you walk; you never know where hidden ancient stones are ready to be found!

Modern History

Today the Historical Centre is spread across nine square km, occupies 668 blocks and contains over 9000 buildings! 1,550 of which have been declared of historical importance. Many of these historic buildings were constructed between the 16th and 20th centuries by the wealthy Spaniards. After a devastating earthquake in 1985, the historic district fell into disrepair. It suffered from overcrowding and pollution and was not an area that many people lauded as worth visiting.

In the 1980s Mexico City’s downtown district, with its modern towering steel architecture, was the big draw. No one had time back then for history, they sought after the future. But with the nostalgia creep of the 2000s, the Fundación Centro Histórico was founded to restore this area to its former glory. The foundation wanted to bring tourists back to the area to appreciate the beauty of these buildings and restore what Aztec history they could. A massive restoration went underway to fix the damage done by the earthquake, and more police presence was brought in to ensure safety for all visitors. Today, the area is back to its position as the central spot for visitors to this great city. Just as it was in the earliest days of its inception.

Notes on Safety

I’ve heard it all before, “But isn’t Mexico City so dangerous?! Aren’t there drug cartels everywhere?!” Honestly, I never felt unsafe when I was there, and I’ve visited multiple times. Mexico City is aware of its reputation. And despite the fact perhaps this reputation is more due to the bad press than actual tourist crime, the government has made great strides in increasing police presence. Especially in tourist areas to ensure that people feel as safe as possible.

In the end, it’s a big city, like any other big city around the world. Standard travel security practices are always encouraged. I would recommend the exact same thing whether you’re visiting Mexico City or Barcelona. And honestly, in Barcelona, I witnessed multiple pickpocketing attempts and one person I knew who had their wallet and passport stolen. In contrast, in Mexico City – I never had anything happen. Does that mean it won’t? Of course not, but I don’t think it deserve this reputation it has.

Be a Smart Traveller

• Don’t wear flashy jewellery or carry expensive handbags
• Keep your money in discreet, zipper pockets and don’t carry too much at one time
• Leave your passport in a safe at the hotel
• Stick to busy streets, well-lit streets
• Ensure your phone plan covers mobile data usage in Mexico. This is a lifesaver when it comes to calling a taxi or just using directions on google maps
• Avoid wandering around at night, instead, take a Uber from location to location
• Avoiding talking to strangers who approach you on the street. Often these are scammers either trying to distract you while they swipe your wallet or just sell you on something sketchy. Kindly just wave them off and continue walking on your way
• Someone strange won’t leave you alone? Walk inside a busy shop
• If you EVER feel unsafe, just call an Uber and you can get picked up and brought to somewhere familiar
• Skip the street taxis and use Uber or other car services instead to ensure a safe ride and reasonable price
• Avoid high-crime areas like Iztapalapa, Tepito, La Lagunia, La Merced, Doctores and Ciudad Neza
• I always carry a photocopy of my I.D. on me in case of emergencies
• Learn a bit of Spanish, goes a long way in many different scenarios

How Long is this Tour?

I would recommend spending an entire day here in the Historic Center. There is SO much to see and do. You could quickly return later to further explore the different art galleries and museums found here as well. And trust me, you’ll probably want to return for the food as well. So don’t worry if something is closed or if you don’t have the time to finish the entire tour. Missing out is just a good excuse to come back!

Access

The Historic District is bordered by the Zócalo to the east, the Paseo de la Reforma to the west, Insurgentes and Av. Juárez to the north and San Angel to the south. The best way to get around Mexico City (in my opinion) is by using Uber. Not only is Uber extremely safe, but you also don’t need to worry about getting ripped off. Fare are displayed upfront before confirming your ride. There is no fussing for cash either as you pay via a credit card stored on the app.

Rush hour traffic is REAL in Mexico City. Honestly, traffic is pretty dense throughout the entire day but it’s definitely worse before and after work hours. I would advise arriving at our starting location before 9 am to ensure you don’t have to deal with too much of the rush hour traffic.

There is also a metro station located right near our first stop. If you prefer to take public transit, that is definitely an option as well. The Metro in Mexico City is SUPER cheap and surprisingly easy to navigate. However, it is also hectic and crowded. The safety of the Metro system gets a mixed reputation. For the most part, I generally recommend Uber to ensure you have the most stress-free experience possible but if you decide to ride the metro just use all the safety tips listed above.

Map of Walking Tour

Alameda Central

Start your tour as early as you can manage inside the green acres of Alameda Central. This incredible urban oasis is the largest and oldest public park in the Americas. Despite being flanked by busy streets on all sides, when you are wandering inside the gorgeous green canopy of the park’s forest, you feel completely at peace.

History of Alameda Park

The site where the park now stands was once the location of the ancient Aztec marketplace. Today, you’ll still find different vendors bringing out their food carts serving tourists and locals alike. I feel like that same marketplace energy still exists here, just in a slightly different form.

The name for the park comes from the Spanish word “álamo,” which means “poplar tree.” Hundreds of these álamo trees were planted in the garden in 1592. Viceroy Luis de Velasco II ordered the creations of a new public green space for the city’s residents during the start of his regime. He saw the popularity of public green spaces in Europe and wanted the same criteria for his new city.

While the eastern portion of the park was for leisurely promenades, the west end of the park held a more nefarious purpose. This western section was originally built during the Mexican Inquisition. It was known as the “Burning Place.” It was here that convicted witches and people accused of treason were publicly burned at the stake. While you don’t immediately think of Mexico as a place of witch trials, these inquisitions spread worldwide. When the inquisitions ended in 1770, the burning plaza was destroyed and transformed into an extension of the park.

Park Monuments

Like many of the amazing parks in Mexico City, they are more than just trees. The precisely paved pathways lead you around decorative fountains, beautiful statues and incredible monuments. It feels like wandering around an outdoor art gallery. Each of the five fantastical fountains found throughout the park was made in France and were inspired by Greco-Roman mythology.

One of the most important monuments is the “Hemiciclo de Benito Juárez.” This large semi-circle of eight towering marble columns with a central plinth is topped with a group of neoclassical statues. In the center is statesman Benito Juárez himself. Juárez was the 26th president of Mexico and, most importantly, the first president of Mexico who was of indigenous origin. On either side of him are two allegorical female statues representing the fatherland and law. On the pedestal he sits, you can see the inscription “Al benemerito Benito Juárez la Patria.” This translate into “To the meritorious Benito Juárez, the Homeland.”

Over the years, the park has been of such important significance to the people of the city. Most importantly, the park was immortalized by Mexican artist Diego Rivera in his famous work Sundays on the Alameda Central. The mural depicts famous people and events in the history of Mexico, all together in one giant vibrant mural. You can still see this mural in the Museo Mural Diego Rivera located in the west end of the park. We won’t be stopping in there today, but later in the tour, we will see hundreds of paintings by Rivera located in-situ where they were first painted.

Palacio de Bellas Artes

Right next door to Alameda Park is the fantastical Palacio de Bellas Artes. The Palacio is doubtlessly one of the most impressive buildings in the historic district. Inside, you can listen to international symphonies, watch emotional ballets, become entranced by the theatre, awe at opera and even hear literature performances. Being a hub for all these performance arts gives the building its nickname, “the Cathedral of Art in Mexico.” 

Architecture 

The Palacio de Bellas Artes’ original design was conceived by Italian architect Adamo Boari. Boari wanted to create an entirely metallic structure, like the modern skyscrapers popping up in America. He loved the neoclassical and art nouveau styles as well and wanted the facade to follow those principles.

Although Boari started work on it in 1904, the building wouldn’t be completed until 1934. Problems with the soil and political unrest all contributed to halting any real progress. The situation was so volatile that Boari ditched the project and fled back to Italy. Mexican-born architect Federico Mariscal took over construction. Mariscal altered much of the design. The most substantial was the abandonment of the steel exterior. Instead, Mariscal used more traditional materials such as stone and carrier marble. But stone and marble are heavy and contribute to the fact that the poor Palacio is sinking into the soft ground a little more every year.

The Facade

The design of the facade is heavily influenced by classical European styles. The images and references don’t have any connection to the Mexican people or their culture. Despite the fact that the new architect was Mexican, he couldn’t change much of the exterior’s plan as the materials had already been purchased. But when we step inside, we can see Mariscal’s real vision for his Palacio.

Walking up to the Palacio, you can see four statues of the pegasuses being ridden by the four muses with Apollo in tow. Initially, these statues used to sit on top of the building. Their weight contributed to the sinking of the building, so they were removed and placed on the ground in the gardens surrounding the Palacio.

Inside the portals on the ground floor are a series of Italian sculptures. Each one depicting various allegorical figures relating to emotions that theatre and art aims to invoke in the viewer. Harmony, pain, rage, happiness, peace and love are all featured here in their mortal form.

One of the most impressive features of the building is the rainbow-hued rooftop cupola. This brightly coloured feature feels so appropriately Mexican, as they embrace colour whenever they can. It stands in such contrast to the white marble exterior designed by the Italian.

Interior Design

When you walk inside (which you can do for free if you just want a peek into the lobby) you can see the powerful Art Deco style that Mariscal dreamt up. Crawling up the sides of the building are sprawling murals surrounded by prehispanic motifs. You can see serpent’s heads curling around the window arches. Mayan deities and their masks, face out on the vertical columns. Even the marble inside is starkly different from the exterior. This marble is a darker and has a red hue giving the interior a more colourful appearance.

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Interior Murals

On the second floor (if you take a guided tour) you can see the incredible murals painted by José Clemente Orozco, David Alfaro Siqueiros, Diego Rivera, Jorge González Camarena, Roberto Montenegro and Manuel Rodríguez Lozano. Outside the entrance to the amphitheatre are more bronze carvings of the Aztec and Mayan gods Tlaloc and Chaac (the gods of thunder and rain.)

Inside the auditorium, you can study the 200-foot Tiffany glass curtain designed by Mexican artist Gerardo Murillo aka “Dr. Atl.” The glass design represents the volcanos Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl. Surrounding them are images of the Mexican landscape. But to me, it is the heavenly sky above the landscape that is the most powerful aspect of the piece. The opalescent blues shimmer like the rainbow as the light catches it.

Interior Tour

Everywhere you look in the interior, there are artful representations of the Mexican people, their values and cultural references. It is 100% mandatory to poke your head inside to really soak in the views for yourself. If you just want to peek inside, the cost is free, but you’ll only be able to explore the lobby. The price of admission to the entire building is $60mxn per person + $30mxn camera fee if you want to take pictures. Usually, the line-up to get inside is very long, so if you have your heart exploring the interior, the earlier you get here, the better.

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Metro Belles Artes

Walk north along the Belles Artes building, parallel to the busy Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas. Walk until you reach the Belles Artes Metro station. Although we aren’t travelling on the Metro, this iconic Parisian station entrance is a must-see. The entrance arch was actually a gift from Paris’ Metro designed by French architect Hector Guimard. The French President Jacques Chirac gave it to Mexico City in 1998 in exchange for a Wixárika fresco, El pensamiento y el alma huicholes by artist Santos de la Torre. Today you can see this mural on display in the Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre Metro station in Paris.

Palacio de Correos de México

Walk back down to the Calle de Tacuba to admire the exterior of the Palacio de Correos de México (Postal Palace of Mexico City.) While it might seem strange to visit a post office, this one is truly spectacular. The Postal Palace of Mexico City was designed when the post office became a separate government entity. They wanted to show off their power and created a building with a very eclectic style to make it really stand out! It blended Art Nouveau, Spanish Renaissance Revival, Spanish Rococo style, Elizabethan Gothic, Elizabethan Plateresque and Venetian Gothic Revival all together. The architect of this Frankenstein creation was none other than Adamo Boari, who designed the Palacio Belles Artes. While you’d think trying to blend that all those styles together would result in a mess, it is anything but!

Construction started in 1902, and the building was finished in 1907. Although five years might seem like a while these days, for such a massive undertaking in the early 1900s it seems almost too quick! The frame of the building was designed on a grid of steel beams. This modern inner structure is why the Post Office managed to withstand many of the earthquakes that destroyed other buildings in the area. Military engineer Gonzalo Garita y Frontera supervised the construction of the steel frame. It is perhaps for this reason that the structure is so sound.

Exterior

One of the most iconic parts of the building is the colour of the stone. The stone is called “chiluca,” which has a slightly translucent effect and is exceptionally light in colour. This allows the heavy ornamentation to be juxtaposed by the airy feeling of the stone. The chiluca stone was quarried from the local Tulpetlac mines. This gives the building a bit of local flare despite the overall European-inspired architectural elements.

Decorating the facade is a mixture of Elizabethan Gothic styles. This period in architecture was dominated by twisting columns, heraldic elements, flowery crests, stone cherubs holding scrolls, gargoyles, hundreds of arches and hundreds (if not thousands) of ornamental balls. Highly polished brass and iron dragons, hanging off the side of the building, shine in the sunlight as you walk along the exterior.

One of the interesting details of the building is the windows that look out onto the street. Take a closer look and you’ll see that the windows on each level are all different designs. Each of these unique window styles is set inside a familiar arch. This gives the facade a more cohesive appearance despite all the different things going on.

Interior

Stepping inside, you are immediately taken aback. Just like the exterior, the interior is awe-inducingly covered in ornamentation. Filigree cresting surrounds the entire building like a living piece of ivy, spreading out from every corner and growing out of control. The marble floors glimmer and shine. They are polished to the point of looking like a mirror, so they reflect the radiant bronze ironwork on the window frames and staircases.

The main staircase descends down from two different directions from a central landing. The stairwell is bathed in bright sunlight from the large leaded glass dome that caps the top of the building.

Facing the staircase are a series of shields that crown the finishes of the interior arcade. These shields represent the various countries that were part of the Universal Postal Union at the beginning of the 20th century. This building is so iconic to Mexico that it inspired the design for the “Department of Family Reunions” in the Pixar film Coco.

Museo Nacional De Arte (MUNAL)

Back on Calle de Tacuba, opposite the Post Office admire the grandiose Museo Nacional De Arte. This museum is worth a visit if you have a little bit more time, but for our purposes today, we are just passing by. This building is a real sight to see. It is one of the most impressive neoclassical buildings in Mexico City, built in the 20th century. The building was initially used as the old Palace of Communications. It was designed to house the Secretariat of Communications and Public Works. Mexico City wanted to show the rest of the world that they were a modern city, and one of the best ways to do this was to building yourself a world-class museum. Today museum houses Mexican artworks from the late prehispanic era to the early 20th century.

Cafe De Tacuba

Continue walking along Calle de Tacuba until you reach the burgundy painted exterior of the Cafe de Tacuba. You most likely will be able to spot this place from afar because it almost always has a line! It’s the perfect spot to grab some breakfast or brunch as the line isn’t AS long in the morning. Café de Tacuba has been a hot spot here in the Historic District since 1912. The restaurant gained real notoriety in 1922 when Diego Rivera held his wedding reception to novelist Guadalupe Marín here. Rivera would divorce Marín and marry one of the most famous Mexican artists, Frida Khalo. Another notable event that took place here was the assassination of the local governor of Veracruz, Manlio Fabio Altamirano Flores. You might think such an event would put people off but it only increased the draw.

But it’s not just the history that brings people here. Aside from the amazing food, is the incredible interior design. The interior is covered in fantastical paintings from the pre-hispanic period. Vibrant mosaics and stained glass windows encircling the space make you feel like dining inside a museum. The entire menu here is based on classical dishes. Some of the best breakfast items include chicken tamales with green sauce, enchiladas Tacuba, Puebla style Garnacha, and hotcakes with honey.

Plaza de Santo Domingo

After filling up on breakfast, continue walking east and turn north up the República de Brasil. At the corner of the República de Cuba and the República de Brazil is the Plaza de Santo Domingo.The name of the plaza comes from its location right beside the church of the same name.

The land in the Santo Domingo Plaza was given to Captain Don Cristobal de Oñate, Gonzalo de Salazar and the Marquis of Villamayor after Mexico was conquered by the Spanish. These men all built their large, luxurious residences around this square. They wanted their homes to be in close proximity to the nearby customs office. They each controlled a massive naval fleet that brought goods in from other Spanish-occupied countries like the Philippines. This brought a considerable amount of income into the new colony and just like today, customs and taxes took up a lot of time. So it was nice to live so close to work.

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Josefa Ortiz de Dominguez

In the center of the plaza is a large circular fountain. In the center is a statue of Josefa Ortiz de Dominguez. Josefa Ortiz de Dominguez was a heroine of the Mexican War of Independence. She fought for the Mexican people and was a part of several conspiracies to overthrow Spanish rule. Ortiz de Dominguez would falsify documents in one of the 614 illegal print shops that spread across the plaza and surrounding area. Ortiz was eventually caught and found guilty. Instead of facing the gallows, as a woman, she was placed in a nunnery. She managed to secure a release if she promised to stop her efforts in the rebellion. Which, of course, she did not. Even in her old age, she aided several radical political groups involved in the independence movement. In 1910, Ortiz de Domínguez was the first woman to be depicted on a Mexican stamp!

On the west side of the plaza, you can see the Portal de Evangelistas leading into the church of Santo Domingo. Although this plaza is slightly farther away from the traditional tourist track, this little square is one of my favourites. It seems that whenever you visit, there is always some sort of festivities going on, and the entire plaza is adorned with brightly coloured decorations.

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Old Customs Buildings

Directly opposite the plaza is the burgundy awning which covers the facade of the Old Customs Buildings. The customs house was responsible for the taxation of all items imported and exported in “New Spain.” “New Spain” was the name for Mexico during the 17th century when the customs house was first established. The building you see today was the newly built version constructed in 1730. One of the reasons I adore Mexico City is that you can see such historic buildings that have been preserved so well. Eventually, the customs offices needed to be expanded. The building was left empty until the Secretary of the Public Education Department took over.

The structure is made from a very unique material only found here in Mexico. The stone is called “tezontle.” Tezontle is dark red and a porous volcanic rock. It was one of the most popular materials used at this time and gives all the buildings from that era a special texture and appearance. The white stone around the windows, balconies and doorways provides a beautiful contrast, almost highlighting the uniqueness of the tezontle.

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Palace of the Inquisition

Before heading into the west part of the plaza, look at the building on the corner of República de Brasil and República de Venezuela. This is the ancient Palace of the Inquisition. The building is notable for its dramatically “cut-off” corner facade facing Santo Domingo Plaza. The Mexican Inquisition was one of the darkest parts of Mexico’s heritage. Although everyone knows the famous “Spanish Inquisition”, their inquisitors also set up operations in their new colonies.

The Inquisitors were essentially a judicial institution that aimed to combat heresy. Heresy was considered an opinion profoundly at odds with what is generally accepted. And what was “generally accepted” was defined by the government of the time. Unlike the judicial system we have today that is based on fair trials and evidence, the inquisitors relied on brutal methods. This included torture, to get their “confessions” out of the accused. Often, this resulted in false confessions by the victims, as they would do anything just to get the pain to end.

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Mexican Inquisition

The first inquisitor to arrive in ‘New Spain’ was Pedro Moya de Contreras. He arrived in 1526 and immediately went about building a new monastery for his Dominican order. Right across the street from the Palace of the Inquisition he built the Church of Santo Domingo. At the time, the current Palace of the Inquisition was a part of the monastery where Contreras and the other inquisitors worked. Their first big case was in 1566 against Martin Cortes, son of Hernán Cortés. There were rumours that Martin Cortes wanted to make New Spain an independent colony. That would mean all the resources that Spain had gained by colonizing Mexico would be lost. Which was a no-go for the government.

But even more upsetting was the fact that instead of investigating Cortes himself, they went about brutally torturing his enslaved Creole workers. When they were found guilty, they were decapitated, and their home near the Templo Mayor was razed. The site was sown with salt, a typical practice on conquered cities to symbolize a curse on their re-inhabitation. Just more proof of how brutal the colonization of Mexico was.

Life after Inquisition

When the Inquisition was disbanded, the building was put up for sale, but no one wanted to buy it due to its horrific past. It was finally purchased by the local archbishop, perhaps as a pity bid, but the building passed hands many more times. That was until 1854 when it was sold to the School of Medicine. But the cursed nature of the building seemed to persevere. In 1873, the famed romantic poet Manuel Acuña committed suicide by poison inside the school. Today, despite the building converted into the University’s Museum of Medicine, you can still make out the coat-of-arms of the Inquisition on the facade. This is depicted on the crest with a cross, branch and sword.

Santo Domingo

Walking towards the west side of the Plaza, you’ll be able to admire the exterior of the great Church of Santo Domingo. The architecture found on this building is very precious as it is the last remaining monastery from the original ‘New Spain’ constructions. When the Spaniards arrived in Mexico in 1526, the Dominican orders immediately established houses of worship. But many churches needed to be rebuilt over the years. Architects from the new world didn’t know how to cope with the soft soil and earthquakes that plagued the area. The church uses mainly the same dark tezontle rock framed in white cantera stones.

The twelve columns on the facade of the church facing onto the square represent the twelve apostles. In the portals on the first floor, we can see Saint Francis and Saint Augustine. Above them, we can see Saint Dominic kneeling as he receives the keys to the kingdom from Saint Peter and Saint Paul. There is a more miniature bas relief carving of the Assumption set between two small choir windows on the top level.

Street Names in Mexico City

Walk along the Republica de Columbia and then back south down Republica de Argentina. You might have started to notice a pattern surrounding the street names in this area. Most of them were named after Latin American countries. Brazil, Chile, and Argentina are all given their own streets. But this wasn’t originally the case. These street names were revised from the original wording in the 1920s by President Alvaro Obregon. During this time, Mexico was in the middle of a bloody revolution. Representatives from these other Latin American countries were sent to Mexico to help President Alvaro Obregon in the uprising. The renaming of the streets was seen as a sign of gratitude towards these countries. But it meant erasing the original naming conventions and with it their history.

In the Historical Centre, you’ll also find streets named after important dates in the country’s history. Cinco de Mayo and 16 de Septiembre are just two of those famous examples. Cinco de Mayo is the commemoration of the Battle of Puebla in 1862, when the French triumphed briefly over the French.

The 16th of September is also known as the “Cry of Dolores” day. On September 16th, 1810, the church bells (known as Dolores) rang as a call to arms that triggered the start of the Mexican War of Independence.

Trade Streets

Since the dawn of Tenochtitlan, Mexico City has been a hub for tradesmen and craftspeople. Many of these trade guilds were given a particular street to work out of. That street was therein known as the “metal workers street” or “shoemakers street.” Even today, in the shopping districts in the Historical Center, this trend of grouping businesses together still exists. You’ll pass a block where you’ll only find fabric stores, or button sellers, or goldsmiths. There is even an entire block dedicated to party decorations!

Cities and Authors

Various districts and neighbourhoods in Mexico City chose their own thematic naming conventions. In the Historical Center, in addition to the names of Latin American cities, we also see streets named after famous military generals like General Molinos del Campo, General Zuaza, General Leon, and General Gomez Pedraza. Roma Norte‘s streets are named after Mexican cities and states. Colonia Juarez contains streets named after international cities. You’ll find Calle Londres (London), Calle Tokio (Tokyo), Amsterdam Avenue, Calle Liverpool, Oslo Street, Hamburg Street, and even Florencia! Colonia Cuauhtémoc on the north side of the Reforma has streets named after rivers; Rio Nilo, Rio Po, Rio Tigris, Rio Elba, Rio Amazonas and Rio Sena. In the upscale area of Polanco, you’ll find the area dotted with streets named after famed men of thought and letters like; Parque Lincoln, Calle Socrates, Avenue Homer, Oscar Wilde, Schiller, Tennyson and more!

Secretariat of Public Education Main Headquarters

The large building that now houses the Secretariat of Public Education Main Headquarters is spread over an entire city block. The main facade faces out onto Republica de Argentina. This side has a completely different look than the older parts of the building we saw previously facing the Plaza Santo Domingo. This modern extension has a classical Greek design featuring Ionic pilasters and sharp lines. On top there is a large stone sculpture of the Greek gods; Apollo, Minerva, and Dionysus. Beside the greek statues are two sets of Aztec and Spanish-style weapons. The entrance to the building is marked by three large metal grilles with the initials “SER” on the front. This stands for the “Secretariat de Education Publica.“

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Diego Rivera Murals

Walk through the iron gates to enter the open-air courtyard. You’ll usually see two armed guards on either side of the doors. Since this is still a government office, they take security seriously. Tell them you are there to visit the Diego Rivera murals. If there aren’t any private events going on inside the courtyard the guards will usually let you right in but might do a quick security check of any bags you might be carrying. Inside the doors, you’ll enter the first of two large adjoining courtyards. Covering the walls of the courtyard are 235 panelled murals painted by none other than Diego Rivera. This was Rivera’s first large-scale painting project.

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Rivera and Vasconcelos

Although born in Mexico, Rivera had travelled to Paris and Italy to study under great masters like Pablo Picasso. He returned to Mexico to participate in a new mural program started by the Secretary of Public Education, José Vasconcelos. Vasconcelos thought that art was a powerful tool for education. He went about commissioning large-scale mural projects across the city to bring art to the public. This project took place after the great Mexican Revolution. The air was to use art to help communicate to the people that this new government would guarantee the new life promised by the revolution.

Like many of his contemporaries, Rivera believed that “easel painting” was considered too aristocratic. He and his contemporaries believed that large, public murals could reach a larger, broader audience. Art didn’t need to be hidden away inside stuffy museums or only appreciated by those with a critical eye. Art was for everyone.

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Education Mural Themes

Rivera started work on the murals in 1923, and it took the painter five years to complete. Despite the overly Greek-influenced exterior, these murals focused powerfully on the Mexican identity. It followed themes of the Mexican Revolution and the glorification of the dedicated Mexican labourers. His themes are divided by the two courtyards. The larger courtyard focuses on “Labour,”and the smaller courtyard is dedicated to the “Fiesta.” Unlike so much of the European influence covering the colonial parts of the city, these murals focused on the regular Mexican people.

Fiesta Courtyard

The smaller Fiesta Courtyard is the first one you’ll enter. Here there are murals on the ground floor depicting various meaningful events in the Mexican calendar. You’ll see scenes from the Deer Dance, the Day of the Dead, the Corn Fiesta, the Meeting on May 1st, Good Friday and the Ribbon Dance.

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Walk up the stairs to the second level, where you can view one of the most important of Rivera’s murals called “The Arsenal.” This massive painting portrays a group of revolutionaries preparing for battle. In the center, you can see the image of a young woman in red wearing the communist star on her shoulder. The woman who posed for this painting is none other than Rivera’s future wife, Frida Kahlo. Hovering above the murals, Rivera painted a sprawling red banner connecting one piece to the other. The text written upon it are words to revolutionary songs called “corridos.”

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Labor Courtyard

The larger courtyard surrounds a beautiful green garden full of lush foliage. In this area, you can see scenes depicting Mexican labourers. You’ll find images of mineworkers, sugar mill labourers, craftspeople using looms and dying fabric, smelters working the oven, and busy farmers selling their goods in the marketplace.

On the second floor staircase, are a series of murals highlighting Mexico’s diverse landscape from the bright blue coasts to the dense mountains. The murals on the second level here are dedicated to what Rivera considered the four primary elements of painting. These are light, colours, man and geometry.

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Palacio Nacional

To finish off our tour of Diego Rivera’s mural, a visit to the Palacio Nacional (National Palace) is in order. The Palacio Nacional is an enormous museum with so much to see and do. But for our purposes, we are just entering to see the courtyard murals. Once we arrive at the Zocalo, we will speak a little bit more about the grand facade but for the time being, let’s go inside to get a look at the courtyard.

Entrance to the National Palace is free, although there is usually a long lineup to get inside. You need to leave a piece of ID with the guards at the door. Since the Palace is still home to the offices of the Mexican President, security is critical. They need to control the number of people and keep track of exactly who is inside. Entrance to the National Palace can be found on Moneda Street.

History of the Palace

The site of the building was once home to Moctezuma II’s Palace. His grand residence was built in 1521. When Cortés first visited the Palace, he described it as having a surprising array of riches. The walls were made of marble, and the facade contained a carved shield of Mexico’s iconic eagle with the snake in its claws. Inside, the building was very modern, with sanitary facilities, fountains, gardens, bedrooms with rich tapestries of rabbit fur and feathers. In addition to being a royal residence for the rulers of the Aztec city, it was also a meeting place for the elder tribe members. Here disputes and discussions would take place to ensure the wealth and happiness of their people.

Sadly, after the invasion by the Spanish, Cortés seized the residence from the Aztecs and used it as his own home. Passing it down to his son in later years. The Palace suffered a devastating fire in 1692 that destroyed much of the original structure. Many of the original stones that could be recovered were used in the reconstruction efforts. However, the design of the new Palace was a much different style. This one was styled in the Baroque fashion of the time. It seemed that over time, every generation added their own touch to the building. And now, it looks more like a patchwork quilt of the ages. 

History of Mexico Mural

Walking inside the National Palace, follow the signs for the ‘History of Mexico Murals.’ These can be found within the great courtyard, surrounded by Baroque arches. Walk up to the main stairwell, where you’ll immediately be struck by this immense masterpiece. The mural depicts the history of Mexico from the dawn of human existence through to the 1920s. Rivera started work on this mural in 1929, many years after his first mural project. The precision and confidence in his technical skills and expressive style are evident in this work of art. Rivera was decisive in using his art to communicate his ideologies about communism and the decisive rejection of the colonizers. He wanted to bring the crimes of the part clearly into the people’s minds to ensure these atrocities were never forgotten.

The main message of the mural surrounds the indigenous Mexican people’s struggles to preserve their culture, National identity and country against the brutal colonizers. Standing at the base of the stairwell, take a minute to appreciate the sheer grandeur of the entire piece. So much of the story is a sad one—a classic tale of good vs. evil. The goodly indigenous Mexicans had one of the most vibrant cultures. Yet, they were practically wiped out by the evil, invading Europeans.

If you squint and look at the entire piece as a whole, the bright colours and expressive shapes look powerful, hopeful and strong, just like the Mexican people. Despite the horrors of the past, the post-revolution population believed in the future of their country. Especially as it became an independent nation. And that their strength and perseverance over the years was what would conquer evil and allow their great country to prosper.

North Wall 

Walk up the stairs to the landing in the center, and look up at the left side, or North Wall. This part of the mural depicts the indigenous Mexican’s long before the arrival of the Spaniards. They are surrounded by the fantastical Mexican landscape all around them. The blue is almost heavenly above—the large bright sunshine above, casting all of them in celestial light. The Aztecs believed in the sun god, as can be seen in the all-seeing eyes painted onto the sun’s face. Just below the sun, you can also see an erupting volcano with Xiuhtecuhtli‘s “the Lord of Fire” exploding from the mouth of the volcano. In the sky flies Quetzalcoatl, the Feathered Serpent deity and god of the wind and the rain.

The Valley of Mexico is spread out along the horizon, with its amazing pyramids towering above the people. Standing in front of the pyramids are the Aztec leaders, guiding and looking after their citizens. In the left corner, you can see a small battle scene between two tribes. This violence was a common occurrence in any civilization but the cultural costumes worn by the different tribes is what makes this little vignette so interesting. 

Farmers are tending to vivid corn crops, almost as bright as gold. Craftspeople in the lower right-hand side of the mural are busy weaving, making pottery, playing music, painting and writing on scrolls. This just shows what a modern civilization they had full of technology, art and even science! They were the farthest thing from “savages” as was reported by the violent Spanish colonizers.

West Side, Main Wall 

We move from the north wall’s idyllic memories to the densely packed and violent images of the west wall. This is the mural straight ahead as you walk up the main stairs. It is the battle of the Mexican people against their oppressors. A story of hatred and war, woven into the fabric Mexico’s history.

Lower Level Depictions

The lower part of the mural is riddled with images of Mexicans and Indians clamouring to fight against the heavily armoured calvary of the Spanish and French attackers. The beautiful and bright feathered costumes of the Aztec leaders, crushed and fallen under the feet of their enemies. Cortez himself can be seen in the middle of the painting, as he is the only mounted soldier with his face exposed. The rest of the attacker’s helmets are closed but Rivera paints Cortez with his helmet raised so his actions are not anonymous.

Cortez’s armies have modern weaponry making their defeat of the Aztecs a foregone conclusion. Despite them being outgunned and outnumbered, the Aztecs fought valiantly against the Spanish as seen on the right and let corners. All the while, the Aztecs are being watched over by a great golden eagle in the center. The eagle sits perched atop a cactus with a serpent in its mouth. The design of this symbol is rooted in the legend that the Aztec people would build their great city in the spot where they found an eagle eating a snake on top of a cactus. They called that place Tenochtitlan (Mexico City), and to them, it was worth fighting for.

Middle Depictions

In the middle of the mural, we see the horrors brought to Mexico by the Spaniards. Not only did they want to conquer the land, but they also wanted to abolish the Aztec religion. The Inquisition went about burning sacred books and religious imagery. You can see these fires burst out across the wall. Priests on the left-hand side can be seen forcefully converting the indigenous people to their new religion of Chrsitiniarity. The Spanish turned many natives into slaves, and it was these hard-working people who were the actual creators of this “new world.”

Upper Arch Depictions

Under the five arches at the top of the wall are the various rulers of Mexico. Interesting to note is Rivera’s use of non-hierarchical representation. No one man is larger than the other. While some people think makes the mural more challenging to interpret or read, it is part of Rivera’s communist ideologies of equality.

Starting from the left, we see the French Rule and execution of Austrian Emperor Maximilian in 1867. Next to that, we see images of the Porfirian Era. This era was coloured with a brutal dictatorial rule accomplished through a combination of consensus and repression. In the central arch, we see depictions of Independence and the Mexican Revolution. At the very top of the frame, you can see a man with a mustache carrying a large red banner. This is revolutionary Emiliano Zapata, who was one of the leading men in the Revolution. The red flag says “Tierra y Libertad,” which means “Land and Liberty.”

To the right we see images from the Reform and Juarez era. Benito Juarez was Mexico’s only Indigenous president and considered the founder of the new Mexican nation. Finally, on the far right, we have the invasion of Mexico by the US. Aabove the invading US army is the great eagle flying down to attack.

South Wall

The south wall to the left of the main stairwell depicts the future of the Mexican people. The imagery represents the ideals of progress, prosperity and hope for a better future. At the top of the mural is the image of Karl Marx holding his great Communist Manifesto on a large scroll. To the right of this is a man flying the Soviet flag. When the mural was painted, the Mexican people and Rivera himself had solid socialist tendencies and the Soviet flag can be seen throughout imagery from this era.

To the right of Karl is a scene of Mexican workers. They are being attacked and oppressed by a group of police wearing large gas masks. This scene takes place in front of the silhouette of Mexico City’s skyline. While the other two murals are more fluid in their collage-like design, this mural is framed in harsh geometric, metal beams. Inside these almost cage-looking rectangles are pictorial representations of what Rivera saw as negatives social forces in high society. 

At the bottom of the painting, is the image of a woman dressed in bright red. Look closely at her face to see if you can recognize the model. It is none other than his wife, Frida Kahlo. Frida holds in her hands a copy of the Marxist manifesto and is engaged in a political rally. Very similar to her real-life political activism. Above her is another similar-looking woman. This is Frida’s sister Cristina, with whom Rivera had an affair during his marriage to Frida.

Second Level

On the second level of the courtyard patio are 11 additional murals painted by Rivera. These are continuations of the history but highlight particular scenes that Rivera found to be important during the pre-Hispanic era. These murals were not finished, and it’s interesting to see them as works in progress captured in time.

La Casa de las Sirenas

It’s time to go and grab something to eat to power us up for the rest of the day. Exit the National Palace the way you came and turn left along Moneda Street and then north up Seminario. This street leads right up to the entrance of historic Restaurante, La Casa de las Sirenas. If you look up this restaurant on Google, it will send you to the wrong address. Be sure to come directly to the building on República de Guatemala at #32. The best part of this restaurant is its incredible view of the Templo Mayor and the National Palace, as it sits in the shadow of the great Metropolitan Cathedral. If you can request reservations in advance, be sure to ask for a seat on the terrace as the view from there is unbeatable.

History of the Casa de las Sirenas

The other reason to eat here? Over 500 years of history steeped within the walls. The buildings along this street, initially named “Calzada a Tlacopan,” were some of the first lots handed out by Hernán Cortés to new Spanish landlords. The buildings were constructed using stones from the old Aztec pyramids, which were destroyed after the Spanish invasion. You can still see those dark-red volcanic stones embedded in the facade. On either side of the incredibly detailed frieze on the terrace are carvings of two mermaids. They sit proud, with their tails unfurled, giving the house the name “Casa de las Sirenas.” In 1994 the house was established as a restaurant and the owner and architect Nicolás Salas Villagómez went about restoring all the original details of the house.

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The menu consists of traditional ingredients and classic recipes. That being said, it’s clear the menu is geared more towards tourists. The selection felt a little simplified, mostly like to suit a foreign palette. But nonetheless, it was all delicious! If you’ve never had traditional mole before, the one here is superb. But what you really come here for is the atmosphere, the good food is just a plus!

Taquería Tlaquepaque

If you’re looking for a cheaper alternative for lunch, make a quick detour over to Taquería Tlaquepaque. Taquería Tlaquepaque is your best budget option. This street taco establishment serves up plenty of options. But the very best one, in my opinion, is the tacos Al Pastor served with onions and pineapples atop a pile of roasted pork. Such a perfect sweet and salty combination.

Templo Mayor Museum

Directly across from the restaurant are the remains of the ancient Templo Mayor. Over the years, after many successful excavations and archeological digs, much of this historic site has been uncovered. It is now able to be viewed once more by the public inside the Templo Mayor Museum. The museum is definitely worth visiting as it displays some of the most significant treasures and relics of the great Aztec people. I would advise returning here on another day as a proper walk-through takes about 2-4 hours to explore. For our tour, the most exciting details of the ruins can be viewed from the street without going inside.

History of the Temple

The entire modern metropolis of Mexico City was built atop the ruins of the ancient Aztec city of Tenochtitlan. In the center of Tenochtitlan was the Templo Mayor, the city’s primary temple complex. The temple’s original name, in the native Nahuatl language, was Huēyi Teōcalli. According to legend, the temple was located where the god Huitzilopochtli gave the Mexican people the sign that they had reached the promised land. This sign was that iconic image of an eagle on a cactus with a snake in its mouth.

This great pyramidal temple was first built in 1325. Unlike Egyptian pyramids, which were primarily large tombs meant only for the Pharaohs, these pyramids were a big part of the life of the city. They were composed of four slopped terraces with secret passages inside. On the top of the pyramid was a flat platform where two temples were located. These were dedicated to Huitzilopochtli, god of war, and Tlaloc, god of rain and agriculture.

Inside the temple were the large idols of each god. They were made of amaranth seeds which was a traditional sculptural material in the pre-hispanic era. The seeds were stuck together with honey and even human blood to form the shape of the god. The blood was always given by willing human sacrifices as they wanted to donate a part of themselves to the god. These human sacrifices shocked Cortés when he first visited Tecnochiland. It was one of the events which added to his disdain of their beliefs and led him to think they were a “savage” culture.

The Discovery of the Temple

In 1521, after the invasion of the Spanish, the temple and the rest of the Aztec buildings were destroyed. The Spanish used the site as a spot for their new Cathedral. Hundreds of years past and many people completely forgot about it until it was nothing more than legend. But in 1978, when an electric company was undertaking some excavation work in the area, they discovered these incredible ruins underground. Back then, 19th-century colonial buildings covered the plot of land under which the ruins were hiding. The government of the time thankfully saw the importance of the archaeological site to be of far greater significance than the colonial buildings. They were demolished, and a massive undertaking began, working to uncover the ruins and preserving the treasure found within.

The parts of the temple we can see today are elements of the base of the pyramid and the slope upon which the rest of the pyramid would have travelled. Large sculptures of the gods jut out from the base of the temple. Still to this day, even after being buried underground, you can make out the bright colours that they were painted with when they were first created. These Aztec towns were a rainbow-hued metropolis and a sight to see to be sure.

Mexico City Cathedral Metropolitan

The crowning glory of the Historic Center of Mexico City is the enormous Cathedral of the Assumption of the Most Blessed Virgin Mary into Heavens. The stone monument dominates the border of the huge Plaza del Zócalo. While its full name is “Cathedral of the Assumption of the Most Blessed Virgin Mary into Heavens,” it also goes by the much shorter nickname “Metropolitan Cathedral” or “Mexico City Cathedral.” The enormous church has stood here for over 400 years, being constructed from the literal bones (or stones) of the Templo Mayor.

The towering ornate church is considered one of the masterpieces of Mexican architecture and is Latin America’s largest and oldest cathedral. If you’re visiting Mexico City, you absolutely need to make a stop inside! Explore the interiors and wonder at the amazing monuments, chapels, architecture and incredible atmosphere found inside the Mexico City Cathedral. I have an entire guided tour of the Cathedral to help you better understand all the different aspects of its history and architecture. It’s pretty in-depth since I truly think it is one of the most spectacular places to visit. But if churches aren’t your thing (which I totally get), you can just poke your head inside and head back out to the Zocalo.

Zócalo

Across the Cathedral is the huge public square, called the Zócalo or Plaza de la Constitución. Every great city has got to have their triumphant main square. Whether it’s St Mark’s in Venice or the Red Square in Russia, you need to have a large central meeting place for your citizens and annual celebrations. The word “Zócalo” means “plinth” or “base.” When the square was first built, there was plans for a large monument to be installed in the center. But only the plinth was ever built. So it began to go by that nickname. The nickname Zocalo caught on for all future public squares around Mexico despite them having no connection to an actual plinth on site.

The Aztec Zocalo

Before the Spanish conquest, the square was used by the Aztec people just as they use it today. As an open space for the people. Back then it was surrounded by Moctezuma II’s Palace to the east and the great Templo Mayor to the north. It sat in the center of what was when the intersection of all the roads that met in the middle of Tenochtitlan.

The Spanish Zocalo

Shortly after the invasion in 1521, the Spanish immediately went about transforming the area around the square. But for the most part, they left the Zocalo much unchanged as open-air squares were already famous in Europe and a necessity for big cities. Over the years, market stalls began to pop up around the square. Although I think the idea of a colossal square bustling with vendors sounds exciting, historian Francisco Sedano thought the spectacle was ugly and unsightly. He claimed it was, “very difficult to walk around here at the time because of its uneven pavement, mud in the rainy season, aggressive street dogs, mounds of trash and human excrement tossed among the corn husks and other discarded wrappings.“

Insisting the “unsightly” local vendors should be removed, the government installed a “Parián” in the southwest part of the square. The Parián was a small, stone warehouse where international products, brought in through trade, were sold. This new warehouse meant that local produce and crafts were pushed by the wayside in exchange for foreign products that outweighed the importance of the indigenous Mexican economy. During the Mexican Wars of Independence, the Parián was seen as another symbol of the colonizers. It was target #1 and destroyed during a large riot in 1828.

Celebrations, Rallies and Riots

As the square sits right in front of local government building, it is a popular spot for protests and rallies. But it is equally a place for expression and celebration. Festival de México is an annual event with programs dedicated to Mexican art held in the Zócalo. During the Day of the Dead celebrations, this square becomes filled with orange decorations, colourful floats, music stages, and more!

Grito de Dolores

Walk over to the east side of the square to look up at the facade of the Palacio National, which flanks this side of the square. It is here, every year on September 16th, better known as Independence Day, that celebrations start in Mexico City begin. Since 1821, the President of Mexico will walk out onto the balcony on the National Palace facing the square filled with crowds of people.

Once outside, he will ring the bell, which hangs in a small niche above the doorway. This bell once marked the first call to arms during the Mexican War for Independence and it still serves as a call to the people today. The president will then shout out to the people in the square, “Viva Mexico!” A cry echoed throughout the jam-packed Zocalo. This is called the “Grito de Dolores” or”the Cry of Dolores”. While it was once a rallying cry for the end of Spanish rule, today it is a cry for racial equality and the redistribution of indigenous land

The niche above the bell is topped by a great carving of the Mexican Coat of arms. The niche is flanked on either side by images of an Aztec eagle knight and his Spanish counterpart. Symbols of the ruling dynasties which once occupied the Palacio.

The Old Government Buildings

Looking south of the Zocalo, two identical buildings sit across facing the square. These are the official Government Administration buildings. The one on the right is the Old Town Hall (Palacio de Ayuntamiento) and one on the left is just called the Government Building (or Edificio De Gobierno). The Old Town Hall is much more bejewelled in its baroque architecture, while the Government Building is a simple, neoclassical design. While the Old Town Hall’s foundations dates back to the 16th century, the Government Building was a 20th-century invention. It was designed as a mirror image to the Old Town Hall, creating a wonderfully symmetrical appearance to that side of the square.

Palacio de Ayuntamiento

When Hernán Cortés took power in Mexico City, he wanted to immediately install a series of large governmental buildings surrounding the Zocalo. This was a sign of his dominance over the country. He also thought this would prevent indigenous people from building up around this central hub. The Old Town Hall would be located on the south side of the Zocalo. Construction was finished in 1527 under master architects Pedro de Arrieta and José Miguel Álvarez. But the first incarnation of the building was destroyed during the riots and fires of the 17th century uprising.

The new design we see today follows the baroque and neoclassical styles popular at the time. On the lower level, there is a series of wide arches for pedestrians to pass under. Floral carvings twirl around the architectural elements creating a highly textured facade. Walk under the arches of the Old Town Hall to admire the brightly coloured Talavera tile which wrap around the building. In the center of some of the tiles are painted murals depicting scenes of the founding of the city. 

Edificio De Gobierno

The Edificio De Gobierno follows the same overall design, but the heavy ornamentation has been omitted. Instead, we see a more simplistic, neo-classical style. Both buildings have a series of Doric, Ionic and Corinthian columns repeating along each level. Many of these design choices can be seen in the surrounding buildings in the Zocalo. But this isn’t just a coincidence or even just a common thread. This uniform look of the square was a government-mandated directive implemented in the 19th century. The government hoped that by enforcing this neocolonial style of architecture, the square would have a more unified and cohesive appearance. 

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Old Portal de Mercaderes

Continue along under the archway under the government building towards the west until you reach the southwest parkette in the corner of the Zocalo. Across the street, facing the west side of the square is the Old Portal de Mercaderes or Old Merchant Portal. From the earliest days of the Zolcalo, vendors occupied the area selling food, silks, fruits, medicinal herbs, and other merchandise. These vendors rented the space from the landowner Don Rodrigo de Albornoz, the Count of Santiago, and secretary to King Carlos V.

Flooding throughout the years around the Zocalo meant much of the original buildings were destroyed. They were thereafter reconstructed in the mid 17th and 18th centuries by the Albornoz family. Despite modern reconstructions, the buildings continued to use the traditional red volcanic tezontle stones and cantera marble. This meant the building’s facade was still in keeping with the rest of the Zocalo’s buildings. The street-level arcade operates to this day as a famous shopping street. The area is better known as the Centro Joyero or the Jeweler Center as it has become a hub for the cities most popular goldsmiths.

Gran Hotel Ciudad de México

Find your way to 16 de Septiembre Street and walk along, past a few shops, until you find the entrance to Gran Hotel Ciudad de México. Although I don’t generally recommend staying in the Historical Center (mainly because it feels more like staying inside the tourist hub), if you have your heart set on this area of town, THIS is the hotel you MUST choose. The rooms are pretty standard, but you get to stay in this gorgeous piece of history. If you get a room with a view out to the Zocalo, you can’t beat it for people-watching opportunities. The rates are shockingly affordable, so it’s well worth checking out.

While the hotel is adjoined to the larger Old Portal de Mercaderes building, its facade is unique to its location along Septiembre street. The high neoclassical style was preserved along with their iconic green wrought-iron balconies. The origins of the building date back to 1526. Back then, the building was constructed as a residence for the Royal Accountant, Rodrigo de Albornoz. It passed hands a few times through the ages, and in 1895, it was purchased by Frenchman Sebastian Robert. Robert’s had the idea to modernized Mexico City’s shopping scene and built its first large-scale department store right here in 1899. 

Centro Mercantil

In this modern department store, named the ‘Centro Mercantil,’ wealthy aristocrats could come and buy everything in one convenient location. Everything from luxurious fabrics, custom hats, expensive jewelry or imported perfumes. The European trend of “high tea” was also brought to Mexico City around this time. Visitors to the Centro Mercantil could enjoy this new trend right there in the opulent lobby cafe. The creme-de-la-cream of Mexico City would be seen walking through the doors, everyone from writers to composers, poets and of course, politicians. It was the who’s who of high society.

Back then, shopping malls weren’t the characterless places they are today. Back then, to draw in affluent customers, department store were lavishly decorated works of art. Robert’s designed the interior in the fashionable Art Nouveau style. Walking inside is like walking into a jewellery box. Hanging above your head as you walk up the stairs is the enormous Louis XV-style chandelier. Its crystals gently tinkling in the wind from the open doorways.

On either side of you, as you emerge from the staircase into the foyer, are two ornate gold canary cages decorated with brightly coloured flowers. But they aren’t just for display, they still hold canaries to this day. Standing in the center of the lobby is the cage-like elevator. This was the first panoramic elevator ever installed in Mexico.

Tiffany Glass Dome

The room absolutely beams with light descending down from the incredible stained-glass dome towering above you. The ceiling was designed by French artisan Jacques Grüber using the illusive Tiffany glass. This is actually one of the four largest Tiffany glass pieces which remain anywhere in the world! Over 20,000 pieces of vibrantly tinted glass were made to create this masterpiece.

Interior

The beautiful wrought-iron railings on the first three floors swell around the lobby like a wave. The use of iron to create the room’s structure was called “Chicago style.” The Centro Mercantil was the first building in Latin American to use the technique. These undulating designs were a replica of the ones inside the famous Au Bon Marché department store in Paris. Au Bon Marché is now lost to time, so the fact we can still see a piece of it today, preserved in this architecture is a real treat. Along the railings, you’ll see the monogram “CM” and “SR” repeated. The “SR” stands for Sebastian Robert, the store owner and the “CM” of course stands for the “Centro Mercantil.”

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Conversion to Hotel

The Centro Mercantil officially closed its doors in 1958. It wasn’t converted into a hotel until 1968. 1968 was one of the most famous eras in Mexico City’s modern history when the Summer Olympics came to the country. The Olympics meant thousands of new visitors to the city. To accommodate the crowds, more hotels needed to be built. These hotels were meant to create a positive impression on the international tourists. The city went about finding artful and iconic buildings that could be converted to wow the visiting athletes.

Avenue Francisco I. Madero

Exit the hotel and head along Calle de la Palma until you reach the pedestrian street Avenue Francisco I. Madero. While today the street is very touristy with many international chains dotting the shop fronts, there are still many historical buildings to see along the way. You just need to know where to look. The street is named after the great Francisco Ignacio Madero González. Madero was a Mexican revolutionary, writer, statesman and the 37th president of Mexico. Sadly, Madera was assassinated in 1913, only two years into his Presidency.

Templo de San Felipe Neri La Profesa

One block down the street, on your right, you’ll find the La Iglesia de la Casa Profesa or more commonly “La Profesa.” The church was the first Jesuit building in Mexico City, established in 1578. Sadly, much of the original design was demolished during the great flood of 1629. The current building is nonetheless impressive, dating back to 1714. Its architecture style marks the beginning of the ultra-baroque trend of the 18th century which exploded throughout Mexico City.

Art Collection

Stepping inside, take some time to admire the paintings on the walls. The church is home to one of the largest collections of colonial-era religious images. On display inside the church, see if you can find the painting of “The Virgin of the Pópulo” by Juan Correa, Baltasar de Echave Orio‘s depiction of “The Pentecost”, and best of all “the Crucifixion” by José Juárez above the altar. They have such an extensive collection of art that there is even an adjoining art gallery where the remainder of their collection is on view.

The Political Side of La Profesora

While a church might not seem like a place where political plots were cultivated, this church has served over the years as the location for many an uprising. During the Mexican War of Independence, “La Profesa Conspiracy” took shape inside these walls. Perhaps the church acted as a place of sanctuary where the rebels felt they would be safe from attack. It was here that those who opposed the republican government and supported Agustín de Iturbide met and discussed their plans to make him the emperor of Mexico. In recent years, it was here that the discussions around the beatification of Juan Diego also began.

Dulcería de Celaya 

Make a quick stop up the street at Dulcería de Celaya where you can grab yourself some delicious Mexican candies. Dulcería de Celaya is a tiny, old shop selling traditional Mexican candies and sweets since 1874. Walking into the shop, it feels like nothing has changed in over 100 years. When the family-run shop first started selling candy, it was made in a small, improvised factory using wooden shovels, copper saucepans and a minature oven. They could only produce so much per day, often only one tray of candy. But the sweets were so popular that they would sell out day after day. As the demand rose, they managed to expand their production to meet the needs of the city.

Even today, they produce candy in much the same way as it was made in the beginning, still out of that tiny kitchen. When you walk in the doors, the smell of fresh pineapples, strawberries, guavas and coconut fills the air. It’s intoxicating. The candy is very well priced, so even if you don’t’ recognize anything, just let the smells guide you and try whatever your eye is drawn to.

Palacio de Iturbide

Head back down to Madera street until you reach the Palacio de Iturbide, just before the Calle de Filomeno Mata. Surrounded on either side by modern buildings, this ancient structure really stands out. The Palace was built in 1779 as a wedding gift from Count of San Mateo Valparaíso to his daughter. Apparently, the Count was worried his daughter’s new husband was going to squander his daughter’s dowry. So instead, the Count built the house using the entirety of the dowry to ensure the new husband wouldn’t be able to lose it.

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Agustín de Iturbide, the Mexican army general and politician, lived here during the Mexican War of Independence from Spain. And it was actually inside the Palace where he accepted the crown of the First Mexican Empire. Because of this seminal moment, the building earned the nickname the “Palace of Iturbide“. The building is made out of that iconically Mexican tezontle and cantera stone. The facade was designed in a high gothic style featuring organic and geometric motifs such as flowers, vines, leaves, and even a mermaid. On either side of the entrance are two graceful male figures that look almost as though they are holding up the balcony above.

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Church of San Francisco

Further along the street, on your left, is the large stone archway and steps leading down into the Church of San Francisco. The Church of San Francisco or the Iglesia de San Francisco was the original headquarters of the Franciscan friars. When Cortez first came to Mexico City, this spot was where he found Moctezuma II’s royal zoo. After the colonization, the zoo destroyed and the land used to build the largest and most influential monasteries in Mexico City. Initially, the church and its monasteries spread out over 32,224 square meters! This would have taken up almost the entirety of the city block around the area.

Balvanera Chapel

Today, the only remnant of the original complex is this small church built in 1710. The reason for the steps down into the church is because, like the rest of Mexico City, the building is sinking. You can’t even walk in through the original entrance as that has been walled up. Today, the direct access to the church is through the Balvanera side Chapel. The chapel’s facade was given a facelift by Lorenzo Rodríguez, who also designed the front for the Metropolitan Cathedral’s Tabernacle.

Walking inside, the most impressive feature of the chapel is the sizeable gilded altarpiece dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe. Her faded image is placed in the center of the golden altar. Walking up a few steps into the central part of the church, you are greeted by another great gilded altarpiece. A few of the little elements inside that I love are the stained glass windows with the red cross in the center. Although they aren’t highly sophisticated, I love the very stark imagery of that repetitive red cross illuminating the clerestory.

While the chapel walls are relatively plain, hung to decorate the large expanses of stone are these vast paintings. These paintings depict scenes from the life of San Francisco de Assísi, for whom the church and the Franciscan order are named. Each one of the paintings highlights one of Saint Francisco’s greatest virtues. See if you can spot them all.

Casa de Los Azulejos

Directly across from the church, you’ll immediately be drawn to the blue and white tiles of the Casa de Los Azulejos or The House of Tiles. Madero Street was once the most highly sought-after real estate in Mexico City. The original residence was built for the wealthy Count of the Valle de Orizaba in the 16th century.

But the now-iconic colourful tiles weren’t added until 1737. After the Count’s death, the Countess decided to return from her home in Puebla to the capital city. Wanting to feel at home, she brought a large amount of the famous Puebla Talavera tiles with her. Puebla tiles were each handmade, and the sheer number of tiles on the facade was a way of showing off the family’s immense wealth, even after the Count’s death. It was a means of showing that Countess was still a power player and didn’t need her husband to run the show.

Talavera Tile

Talavera was a craft brought to Mexico by the Spanish. The Spanish established their workshop in Puebla in the 16th century. They chose Puebla as their industrial hub as it was an excellent location to nearby clay mines used to create the tiles. The colourful tiles were a popular feature inside monasteries and churches. Usually, only the most wealthy homes could afford to decorate their houses with them. While some Puebla tiles were painted with images of animals, birds and flowers, the most commons variety contained simple geometric patterns.

Sanborns

Florid stone carvings decorated the windows, doorways and balconies around the rest of the building. Carved into the stones are French porcelain crowns to denote the status of the house as a royal residence. The Count’s family eventually sold off the property in the 20th century. It was purchased by Frank Sanborn and his brother Walter. It was there that they would open their first soda fountain shop and drugstore. They named it the ‘Sanborns American Pharmacy,’ which opened in 1917. Sanborns transformed the residential interior open-air courtyard into a restaurant with a large stained-glass roof overhead. Customers could dine inside the inner courtyard and enjoy the gorgeous antique murals that cover the walls, remnants of the 17th-century home.

One of the best places to get a great photo-op is along the tiled exterior is on Condesa Street. This less busy side street has tiles that stretch along the entire passage and provide an unobstructed view of the building. The food inside the restaurant isn’t anything to write home about but it is definitely worth going inside to take a look at the interior courtyard. Sanborn’s is still a small shop, so you can also go inside to buy yourself a little souvenir or bottle of water to give yourself an excuse to tour the interior.

Torre Latinoamericana

At the end of Madero street is the great Torre Latinoamericana. This enormous skyscraper looks down over the Historic Center like its great protector. While the skyscraper might seem pretty modern for a stop on the “Historical” neighbourhood tour, the view you get from the top is really what makes visiting this place worthwhile. The Torre Latinoamericana stretches 166 meters (545 ft) up to the sky. The building was designed by some of the countries best engineers to ensure it could withstand the seismic activity that is prevalent in the area. It stood the test of time in 1985 when the building withstood the 8.1 magnitude earthquake that brought such immense damage to the rest of the Historic District.

The building opened to the public in 1956 as Mexico’s tallest building and remained as such until 1982. Back then, skyscrapers were really architectural miracles. The other historic buildings in the neighbourhood were immediately looked over by locals and visitors in favour of the steel and glass tower. Today, it almost feels like the opposite. Most of us live in steel forests and are clamouring to see more of the baroque stone structure of the past.

Observation Deck

You have the option to travel up the tower to experience the fantastic views all across Mexico City. The building’s 44th floor is home to a large open-air observation deck. On a clear day, you can see all across the city and even over to the snow-capped volcanoes of Iztaccíhuatl and Popocatépetl. From up above, you can really see how Mexico City is indeed located in a valley. Ticket to go up the tower cost 150 pesos (7 USD) per person.

Miralto Restaurant

If you are interested in getting a view without paying to go the observation deck you have the option of dining at the Miralto restaurant, located inside the tower. The restaurant has just as spectacular of a view, albeit without the open-air part. But for those of us who don’t love heights, this option might even be bette. The menu is pretty basic, but the food we did order was really delicious and shockingly well priced for being in such a spectacular location. My advice would be to head up to the tower to enjoy a small appetizer and fancy cocktail to paur with the gorgeous view. If you visit at the end of the day, you’ll also be able to enjoy a magnificent sunset!

La Opera Bar

If you’re looking to fill up for real, the Historic Centre has a ton of fantastic options for you. For a mid-price table service restaurant with such historic flair, La Ópera Bar is an excellent choice. The restaurant and bar have been here since 1870, serving locals and tourists alike. There is a definitely European flare to the place with their richly polished woods, tiled floor and filigree wood-carved ceilings.

Azul Historico

But my all-time favourite option has got to be Azul Historico. It’s an upscale option but still super reasonably priced considering the quality of the food and the beautiful ambiance. The restaurant is located inside a gorgeous open-air colonial courtyard. You sit amongst the trees while dining on authentic and yet modern Mexican cuisine. The presentation and service is absolutely unparalleled and eating here feels like such a visually sensation experience.

The entire menu is fantastic but one of my favourite hidden gems, that many people might not realize or skip over, is their hot chocolate. Hot chocolate originated in Mexico so ordering it here feels like getting to try the most authentic version of the drink. If you order a hot chocolate, they’ll bring the hot chocolate cart to your table. There, a waiter mixes up your personalized drink. Almost like ordering a fancy cocktail. You get to choose the type of chocolate and even some additives. Then they use these traditional wooden mixers to serve up the cup of warm cocoa right there in front of you! Just one more example of their stupendous service! You really must make it out here!

Pastelería Ideal

If you are still hankering something sweet to eat for dessert head over to the Pastelería Ideal. This bakery is one of the most popular shops in the district. In fact, you might have even seen their colossal blue and white boxes all over the city as it’s a popular spot for cafes to buy their sweets from. The bakery was founded in 1927 and has been opened in this very spot ever since. They have since opened up three other locations, but this is the original. The building in which it is located was actually once a part of the old Franciscan monastery we visited eariler! You can still see details of the original walls of the De Profundis Room inside the upper floors of the bakery.

This bakery has everything from traditional Mexican bread and pastries, cakes and cookies to Parisian puff pastry, viennoiseries, and more! All of this is served up on huge platters towering with treats. Just grab a try and use the tongs provided to serve yourself up some pastries. Once you’re done piling up (they make great breakfast pastries, too), take your collection to the counter. There they will pack them up for you and give you a ticket to pay. After you’ve paid, they’ll delivery you your baked good, all perfectly wrapped up to go. Enjoy them back at your hotel or back in Alameda Park to round out the tour.

Mexico City’s Historic Centre is a must-see destination for anyone visiting the city. It has so much significance with regard to the history of Mexico. It’s one of the most exciting areas to visit and the museums provide a dozen more reasons to come back! I hope you enjoyed our very thorough tour, time to head home, put your feet up and enjoy a cold Cerveza!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post FREE Self-Guided Walking Tour of Mexico City’s Centro Historico first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

But while the pandemic might be raging outside my doors, lucky for us, the wonders of modern technology allow us to travel virtually. Even while cooped up at home! So if you’re looking for something fun to do, perhaps this virtual weekend tour of Mexico City is just what you need. This virtual tour is a fun way to bring a little bit of wanderlust back into your life and break your pandemic routine.

Table Of Contents

1. Saturday – Start with a Café de Olla
2. Visit the Golden Metropolitan Cathedral
3. Find your Inner Archeologist in Templo Mayor
4. Discover Historic Treasures inside the National Museum of Anthropology
5. Find Art Deco Murals inside the Palacio de Bellas Artes
6. Discover Mexico's Fold Art Heritage at the Museo de Arte Popular
7. Hike to the Chapultepec Castle
8. Take a Mexican Cooking Class
9. Sunday: Start off in Coyoacan's Casa Azul
10. Take a Virtual Walking Tour of Coyoacan
11. Experience the Wonders of Xochimilco
12. Peek into the Life of Frida & Diego inside the Museo Dolores Olmedo
13. Learn how to Make Mole
14. Watch a Lucha Libre Match!

Saturday – Start with a Café de Olla

One of my favourite parts of the day when visiting any city is early in the morning. This might seem odd to some people, as their idea of a vacation is getting to sleep in. But I find the morning to be the best time of day to see a new city. I love watching the locals walking to work, taking their dogs out to the park and admiring the sunlight as it rises to wake the city. And in every city I’ve visited, everyone starts the day off with a cup of coffee.

In Mexico City, I had some of the best cups of coffee of my life! One of the traditional forms of coffee in Mexico is called ‘Café de olla‘. Café de olla is easy to prepare at home yourself and will make you feel like you’re somewhere new! Café de olla is traditionally made in an earthen clay pot, and its predominant flavour is made from boiling cinnamon sticks. This gives the coffee the most amazing spiced flavour.

Café de Olla Recipe

The video below is my favourite recipe guide as it’s hosted by this adorable Abuela (Spanish for “grandmother”). She shares with us her time hnoured recipe for her Café de Olla. The only ingredient you might not find in your local grocery store is the ‘piloncillo‘. A piloncillo or panela is a cone of unrefined cane sugar. This boils away in the water and sweetens the coffee as it dissolves. If you don’t like sweet coffee, you can omit this altogether or just add white sugar to taste.

Visit the Golden Metropolitan Cathedral

Now that you’ve had your caffeine, let’s continue our peaceful start to the day. Next stop: the Metropolitan Cathedral, located in the heart of the Zocalo. The Metropolitan Cathedral of the Assumption of the Most Blessed Virgin Mary into Heaven is probably the longest title of a church I’ve ever seen. The church is the official seat of the Catholic Archdiocese of Mexico. While being such a holy place for Christians is enough to make this building sacred, it is also located right beside one of the most outstanding former Aztec precincts. The area is a powerful connecting space between both the new and old world. You can sit back and enjoy a 4K virtual tour of the building in the video below. Admire the fantastic gilding throughout the church and the stunning Saint chapels that flank either side of the nave.

CyArk

One of the most remarkable ways you can get up close to the details inside the church is through the work of CyArk. CyArk is a non-profit organization that aims to digitally record, archive and share the world’s most significant cultural heritage sites. In 2018 they set out to document the Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral. Since the structure is at such high risk due to earthquake damage, capturing it as it is now will help future restorers should the worst happen.

Altar of the Kings

As of 2021, CyArk has captured in 3D the entirety of the monumental ‘Altar of the Kings‘. This altar measures 45.1 ft wide, 82 ft tall and 25 ft deep! The altar is almost entirely covered in gold gilding and features hundreds of painted figures. Due to its enormous size and amount of gold used, it is also called the “golden cave“. With the CyArk technology, you can zoom right into the different pieces of the atar and see the smallest details you can’t see from the floor below.

You can also explore the exterior of the church. Zooming all around it, even peeking onto the roof. You can explore areas of the building unable to be seen by the public on the ground. I had never even noticed until now that the central dome’s onion roof has blue ceramic tiles lining the ribs! Their website also offers a detailed exhibition into the creations of this digital masterpiece.

Find your Inner Archeologist in Templo Mayor

Located right beside the Cathedral are the ancient ruins of the Templo Mayor. The Templo Mayor (which is Spanish for the “Greater Temple”) was the Aztec people’s main place of worship[ in their capital city of Tenochtitlan. Tenochtitlan was founded around 1325 on an island in what was then Lake Texcoco. The Aztec empire flourished here until the 15th century until the Spanish invaded and changed the course of Mexican history forever. The temple constructed here was called the Huēyi Teōcalli. It was dedicated to both the war god Huitzilopochtli, and the god of rain and agriculture, Tlaloc. Construction of the temple is thought to have begun in 1325 but saw significant reconstruction over the years. The Spanish destroyed the temple in 1521, but luckily we still have these remains to study the great empire.

History of the Museum

When the modern metropolis of Mexico City began to be constructed, city planners had no idea what was beneath the earth’s surface. In 1978 archeologist Eduardo Matos Moctezuma discovered that beneath 13 buildings in this area there were the ruins of the old empire. Excavating the site meant that all these 13 structures had to be demolished. Luckily, the city saw more value in recovering lost treasures of the past than preserved buildings from colonization.

More than 7,000 objects were discovered here and are on display in the museum. Skeletons of turtles, frogs and crocodiles were found as this area was once a rich waterway. There were also mixtec figurines, ceramic urns from Veracruz, masks from Guerrero state, copper rattles, and decorated skulls and knives of obsidian that were uncovered. So many of these objects came from far away, revealing that this city was a great place to journey to.

Street View

The museum opened to the public in 1980 so that everyone could view these fantastic pieces of Mesoamerican history. To view the site for yourself, you can explore it is via google street view in 360. You can look up and down on the exterior and see the details of these centuries-old buildings.

To find out more about the museum and the old temple, you can watch this video below. There are English subtitles to follow along with if you don’t speak Spanish. The video is well worth listening to as it gives you an excellent primer on the history of the site.

Discover Historic Treasures inside the National Museum of Anthropology

To learn even more about Mexico’s ancient history, head over to the virtual National Museum of Anthropology. This museum is the most visited museum in Mexico City. That is saying a lot since Mexico City is home to the world’s 2nd most extensive collection of museums! The National Museum of Anthropology’s goal is to research, conserve, exhibit and disseminate the most important archaeological and ethnographic collections from the country.

The online gallery is broken up into categories based on the materials the objects are made of. You can view pieces made of stone, clay, rock and more. When you click on an object, you will be able to study it in detail by zooming in and out. They scanned the items at such high-res you can get right into the cracks! Along with the images of the item are excellent write-ups on the pieces that will tell you all about where it was discovered, the meaning behind it and even information about the craftsmen who made it.

Find Art Deco Murals inside the Palacio de Bellas Artes

The Palacio de Bellas Artes or Palace of Fine Arts is an Art Nouveau masterpiece. It stands as the central hub for music, dance, theatre, opera and literature in Mexico, dubbing it with the nickname “Cathedral of Art“. Construction on the Palacio began in 1904 but was halted in 1913 due to many different complications. The structure wasn’t finished until 1934.

While the exterior is a beautiful blend of Art Nouveau and Neoclassical architecture, the interior is decorated with Art Deco elements. One of the things which makes the building so famous is the interior murals painted by Diego Rivera. To explore the Palacio de Bellas Artes, you can take a virtual tour. On the official website, you’ll be able to see the incredible murals, tour the sprawling art deco lobby, explore the theatre and even see underneath the stage! Something which not just any ol’ visitor would be able to see. My favourite part of the building is the stunning stained-glass dome inside atop the theatre.

Discover Mexico’s Fold Art Heritage at the Museo de Arte Popular

Across the street from the Palacio de Bellas Artes, you can find the Museo de Arte Popular. This museum takes visitors back several centuries and studies the history of traditional folk art of Mexico’s people. It aims to display the diversity of cultures and how the interaction between nature, man and society create the rich fabric of Mexican art and artistry.

Two online exhibitions that are available virtually study traditional Mexican textiles and the Festival of Day of the Dead. The show on clothing is such an interesting investigation into the influence of Mexico’s flora and fauna in apparel. You can see how different parts of the country have various iconic patterns dedicated to their local flowers.

In the exhibition ‘The Ofrenda of Day of the Dead‘, the museum aims to teach the viewer all about the Mexican ‘Ofrenda‘. An ‘ofrenda‘ is an altar that families prepare for the relatives who have passed. This is a traditional part of the Day of the Dead celebrations. It is meant to guide the spirits of their dead relatives’ home during the festival. The altar is filled with items that the person who past loved in their life. The altar is also covered with meaningful items such as sugar skulls, marigolds and more. The exhibition will tell you all about the significance of the objects placed on the altar.

Hike to the Chapultepec Castle

Hidden away atop a hill above downtown Mexico City is the great Chapultepec Castle. I was amazed by visiting the castle that such a thing existed in Mexico City’s modern metropolis. Chapultepec Castle’s name comes from the Nahuatl word” chapoltepēc,” that means “at the grasshopper’s hill.” The hillside was, for hundreds of years, a sacred place for the Aztecs. In the 18th century, before the palace was built, the hillside was home to a gunpowder warehouse and military academy. Then in 1864, it became the official residence of Emperor Maximilian I and his consort Empress Carlota.

Carlota went to excellent care and expensive to remodel the palace into a luxurious residence. It was used as an official residence of the President of Mexico from 1883 until 1939. After which it was turned into a museum. My blog about my visit to the castle is a highly detailed summary of all the wonders you’ll find there. YouVisit also has a beautiful virtual tour you can take to view parts of the palace in 360 degrees!

Take a Mexican Cooking Class

The best way to finish off your day is to create a delicious traditional Mexican meal. One of the best things about visiting Mexico City is the food! And while you might not be able to be there yourself, food is always something you can attempt to make at home. One of the very best online class services is the ever-popular MasterClass. Gabriela Cámara, A “star of modern Mexican cuisine,” brings her local, sustainable twist to time-honoured traditions. In this class, you will learn how to make everything you need for a complete Mexican dinner. You’ll make fresh tortillas, succulent tacos al pastor, salsas (of course), and my favourite aguachile de camarón (raw shrimp in lime and chile). You can even learn how to make huevos rancheros to eat for breakfast the next day!

Sunday: Start off in Coyoacan’s Casa Azul

Next up, it’s time to head over to the suburb of Coyoacan, to see where the great artists Frida Kahlo lived. Frida not only grew up in Coyoacan, but she also purchased her childhood home and lived out the rest of her days there too. She called the house “La Casa Azul”. The name comes from the bright Azul (Spanish for blue) colour that the house’s exterior is painted with. In her childhood journal, she wrote that the colour blue represented “electricity and love.” Those two words seem to describe Frida perfectly. Despite all the suffering, she went through her art and her life is filled with such passion and power.

Truly one of my favourite places I have ever visited is the Casa Azul, in Mexico City. This gorgeous blue house, in the cozy neighbourhood of Coyoacan, is where Frida Kahlo lived as a child. It is also where she spent the better part of the end of her life. In Mexican culture, it is good luck to be born and die and in the same place. The Casa Azul is teeming with memories, influences, and the real spirit, Frida Kahlo. There is genuinely no better place to give you a more intimate exploration into her life than inside the Casa Azul.

During the summer of 2020, the Casa Azul Museum took it upon themselves to capture the Casa Azul in 360 degrees. With this new technology visitors from all over the world could explore the house room by room from their own home! You can explore the entirety of the house, peeking into her kitchen, bedroom, studio and her magical garden. The virtual tour doesn’t come with any detailed information, so you can use our self-guided tour. Follow along for a complete understanding of the significance of every object, painting and plant inside the house. If you’re interested in a full virtual tour of Frida Kahlo, you can check out my blog post for more on the great artist.

Take a Virtual Walking Tour of Coyoacan

One of the most important places to study Frida Kahlo is in her home town neighbourhood of Coyoacán. Outside the heart of Mexico City, this little village was where Frida was born, grew up, lived, and eventually died. These streets were her playground, her studio and her home. It’s here you can get a glimpse into the life of the great artist. You can read more about Coyoacan here or take a virtual tour online.

Experience the Wonders of Xochimilco

A place that was sacred to Frida was Xochimilco. Xochimilco and the surrounding Aztec waterways were where Frida and her friends would go to escape the city. A famous photo of Frida on a boat along the Xochimilco canals shows her dipping her hand into the water. She felt at home here, a place to run away from her dramatic marriage, her pain and even perhaps, herself.

Today it’s a vibrant neighbourhood where you can experience the same journey Frida would have taken. There are so many videos online which take you through these wonderfully colourful canals. With a Mezcal in hand at home, you’ll feel like you’re there!

Peek into the Life of Frida & Diego inside the Museo Dolores Olmedo

Located in Xochimilco, the Museo Dolores Olmedo is situated in an old stone house dating back to the 16th century. Inside it contains the world’s largest collections of works by Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The online exhibition tells the story of the life and art of Frida Khalo. Using personal effects, photographs and live street views of where she lived you feel like you are stepping into her shoes. And of course, you’ll also see a myriad of her earliest paintings and sketches.

Learn how to Make Mole

For our second recipe I wanted to provide an alternative to the subscription service which MasterClass requires. There are TONS of free recipes and tutorials online and the best are on Youtube. Rick Martinez with Food52 (one of my favourite recipe websites) takes us through how to make one of his favourite recipes, Mole. Mole is such an essential part of Mexican cusine. But the recipe can feel like a daunting one to take on. But with Rick’s charming personality and easy-to-follow instructions, he makes the entire experience nothing but fun!

Watch a Lucha Libre Match!

Lucha Libre is one of the most vibrant and exciting sports to watch in Mexico City! It had even been deemed a part of the “intangible cultural heritage” of Mexico City as of 2016. Lucha Libre means “freestyle wrestling,” and these stupendous matches are the perfect way to end off your virtual tour of Mexico City. Over the years, Lucha Libre wrestling has developed a unique style separating it from any form of American wrestling, either professional or Olympic.

In Mexico, wrestlers dress in fantastical outfits and always wear the iconic colourful “lucha” mask. They must wear their mask, hiding their true identity. Only when they lose a match are they unmasked as a sign of disgrace. We went to see a show when we were in Mexico City, and it was one of the most exciting nights of my life! To get an idea of what it is like to experience it for yourself, I would recommend watching the video below.

The video details the entire experience. From entering the great stadium, to the food and, of course, the amazing acrobatics of Lucha wrestling. If you’re interested in just watching other matches, you can check out this video and more online.

This brings us to the end of our lovely virtual weekend in Mexico City. Another part of our series on Virtual Travel. I hope you enjoyed being able to see all these amazing places inside my favourite place in the world! Let me know in the comments what you’re favourite place we saw was and what future destinations you’d like to visit virtually next!

Happy (Virtual) Travels, Adventurers!

The post How to Have an Amazing Virtual Weekend in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. History
2. Flowers
3. Tortillas de Arina
4. Mexican Chili Peppers
5. Moles Miguel
6. Vanilla
7. Dried Fruits & Nuts
8. Productos Regionales Yucatecos y del Sureste
9. Fruits and Vegetable Sellers
10. Piñatas
11. Lecheria
12. Sugar Skulls
13. Corn Tortillas
14. Heladería Cubano
15. Meat and Seafood
16. La Morenita de Medellín
17. La Flor de Xochimilco
18. Meche y Rafael Carnitas
19. Outside Street Food
20. La Michoacana
21. Tips for Visiting the Farmer's Market

History

The Mercado Medellín is easily identifiable by it’s red, green and yellow geometric painted exterior. Lookout on one side for a huge, decorated multicolour mural. This marketplace has stood here for over 150 years. When the market was first established, it was in the centre of an immigrant community in Mexico City. Colombians, Cubans, Brazilian, Venezuelans and even Jewish immigrants all found themselves in the middle of the city in a neighbourhood now called Roma Sur.

The immigrants would import food and goods from their home country to sell here in their new home in Mexico City. Up until the earthquake of 1985, Jewish Mexicans owned and operated the market. But after the quake, its ownership passed hands over to the Cubans, therein earning the market its nickname; “Little Havana.”

The entire marketplace is now home to over 500 different stalls. While you can have a blast just wandering around on your own, I’ve tried to highlight the key things you should see, buy and which are the best shops to visit!

Flowers

While this market can’t compete with the enormity of the Mercado Jamaica (the largest flower market in the city), the pre-made bouquets you’ll find here, beckoning you in from the street, are lovingly curated. After shopping for their food, we saw various locals come out and buy a bouquet from their favourite seller on their way home. A little something to brighten up their home for the week! Our favourite flower to see was the poinsettias for sale. Poinsettias, known as Flor de Nochebuena, are native to Mexico. In North America, the flowers are usually only seen around Christmas but here they actually grow as small trees or bushes. During the winter months, poinsettias can be spotted all over the streets and sidewalks of Mexico City.

Tortillas de Arina

One of the first stalls to visit is ‘Tortillas de Arina.‘ This tortilleria makes flour tortillas for shops all across the city. Hundreds of tortillas speed off the conveyor belt, and the smell of freshly baked bread invites you to walk up and see what’s happening behind the counter. The word tortilla comes from the Spanish word for cake “torta” and “illa” means little. So it translates, the word for tortilla translates into “little cake.” The flour tortilla is much more popular with people from Northern Mexico. The close proximity to the border markets allowed Northern Mexicans to get inferior grade wheat flour, which they could make cheaply into flour tortillas. People who have moved from the northern provinces to Mexico City come here often to get their fix of wheat tortillas. Wheat tortillas are only usually only paired with Northern Mexican dishes.

Mexican Chili Peppers

This is one of the best markets to find fresh, Mexican Chili Peppers! There are five main chillies to see (perhaps even buy to take home with you); the Ancho, the Mulato, the Pasilla, the Morita and the Guajillo. The ancho chilli is the dried version of a poblano pepper. Ancho peppers are used in mole and many other recipes. Ancho is so popular because it has a subtle flavour with a hint of sweetness. Next up is the mulato chilli, also in mole. The mulato chihlli is also derived from the poblano pepper but picked when it first ripens, making it slightly spicier.

Pasilla chili

The final ingredient in the trifecta of mole chillies is the pasilla chilli. The pasilla are dried from chilaca peppers and are the darkest in colour. They are also much thinner and much spicier! Morita chipotles are chillies made by smoking ripe jalapeno peppers. These chipotles are not as strong in terms of a smokey flavour as some other, so really with this version, you get the best of both worlds.

The final chilles to find in the market is the guajillo chilli. Guajillo’s are long, flat, but small and are one of the spiciest varieties. Small packs a punch that’s for sure! It was so fascinating getting to touch and smell these chillies. The ones we get at home are so hard and almost crispy, but these dried peppers were soft and almost leathery. So if you’re a cook and want to make any Mexican recipe, these chillies are imperative to buy from these markets. Just be sure you know the customs regulations regarding these vegetables and always declare them to be sure.

Moles Miguel

Find your way to Moles Miguel, one of the most famous mole sellers in the market. This family-owned store sells pre-made mole pastes in different varieties. I never knew there were so many! If you ask nicely, they might even let you try a few before buying. Some of the most popular varieties are black mole, named for its super dark colour. This one is made with lots of cocoa beans (making it quite bitter). This one also has a more cinnamony taste than the rest. Then there is the red mole, made with dried red chiles like pasilla, guajillo and ancho. Finally, you’ve got the mole poblano. This version, in my opinion, is the best of them all. It’s sweet (but not too sweet) and just the right amount of smoke flavour.

Vanilla

Mexico is the birthplace of vanilla, and there is really no better place to buy it. Although the authentic extract is delicious, its even better to buy the bean pods fresh from sellers like you’ll find in these marketplaces. Fresh seeds are so much more fragrant than the extract since they aren’t diluted in alcohol.

Dried Fruits & Nuts

Dried fruits, nuts and seeds can be found all over the market, stashed away inside large tubs and baskets. Walnuts, called Castile nuts in Mexico, are of enormous importance during the late summer. Walnuts are a key ingredient to make one of Mexico’s most famous dishes, “chiles en nogada.” This dish is made with spicy green poblano peppers, stuffed with chopped meat and raisins. The dish is then topped with a thick sauce made from only cheese and ground walnuts. A sprinkling of pomegranate seeds creates the colours of the Mexican flag all in one dish!

The recipe was invited in honour of the leader of the Mexican uprising against the Spanish in the 19th century. Since the recipes invention, the dish eaten to celebrate Mexico’s Independence. Ironically, nuts were brought to Mexico by the Spaniards themselves. Almonds and peanuts are also an essential ingredient in mole as they add that deep, nutty flavour to the dish. Dried fruits from Mexico are beyond fresh, soft and flavourful. They are the perfect snack to stash away in your bag for an afternoon snack.

Productos Regionales Yucatecos y del Sureste

Many of the shops in the market sell pre-made mixes and pastes. From these you can create a myriad of Mexican recipes. Productos Regionales Yucatecos y del Sureste sells them all in one place. One of the most famous recipes in Mexican cuisine is Cochinita Pibil. The key ingredient to this recipe is Achiote paste. Achiote seeds are a traditional Aztec ingredient. The achiote paste is made from steeping the seeds in oil or lard. It’s thought to be like the saffron of Mexico. It’s so popular due to its sweet, earthy and peppery flavour. Buy it here and bring home to impress your friends.

Fruits and Vegetable Sellers

There are so many stands in this marketplace that have been run by the same family for generations. The food found here is an amalgamation of both locals and imported foods. Together they create the fabric of Mexico’s culinary culture.

A popular Mexican fruit that you may never have heard of is the mamey fruit. The mamey fruit has a rough rind, but a soft, coral coloured flesh underneath. When perfectly ripe, it tastes like a cross between a sweet potato and an orange. You’ll find these on menus all over Mexico, often as part of a beverage or served atop puddings.

Another odd ingredient you’ll find here is the nopal or cactus. “A cactus, you say?” Certain parts of the cactus are indeed edible and, when appropriately cooked, are shockingly delicious! To prepare the nopal, you slice off the exterior, scrap the spine, cut into slices, and boil with some simple spices. It’s incredibly cheap but very hearty food.

One of the last ingredients you might be on the lookout for is the tomatillo. You might know the tomatillo by its North American name, “green tomato”. But the Tomatillos found here in Mexico City as far different. They are much smaller and bursting with flavour. Tomatillos are used in all sorts of dishes. You can find them in salsas, salads and even soups! Tomatillos in the market are on display with their delicate pale husk on, which is removed before eating.

Piñatas

One thing which this market had plenty of is pinata makers. You can homemade pinatas all over the market. Some of which are still in the process of being made from scratch. When pinatas were first introduced to Mexico from Spain, they were symbolic of the Catholic belief in the deadly sins. The first pinatas weren’t shaped like Hello Kitty or Superman; they were seven-pointed stars, with each point representing a mortal sin. The person being blindfolded represented humanity’s blind faith in God needed to resist these temptations. The participant was spun around 33 times, once for every year of Christ’s life. Then the stick is used to beat the sins out of the faithful, and the candy and fruit represented the rewards for keeping the faith. You can still find these original designs in the marketplace today!

One of the oldest fruits to be included in the pinata was the tejocote. These are still sold today in the market, but have been replaced for sweet candy inside the pinatas. These Aztec fruits resemble a crabapple and are both similar in taste and shape but have the most beautiful golden colour.

Lecheria

Along the back wall, you can find a huge lecheria, which is Spanish for ‘dairy’ which sells a variety of cheese produced from local farms. My favourite is Oaxaca cheese. Oaxaca cheese is made from soft, stretched-curd cheese, made with cows’ milk. It pulls apart, almost like a cheese string (for those 90s kids reading), and if often served atop meals as it melts quickly and adds that perfect salty, umami flavour. The most interesting of the cheeses was the chihuahua, which is made from a Mennonite community in Mexico. Chihuahua cheese is relatively simple, with a buttery, yet sharp taste but very popular since its gentle flavour allows it to be paired well with most dishes.

See if you can also find or try some membrillo, which is a jelly made with quince juice and honey to be served alongside cheese. Together with the salty cheese, this sweet jam is perfection.

Sugar Skulls

Dia de Los Muertos (or Day of the Dead) was an Aztec ritual that celebrated the lives of those who were deceased. Despite the Spaniards attempt to rid the country of this sacred holiday, the ceremony remained. Eventually, it was blended together with the Catholic celebration of All Saints Day on November 1st. Traditional sugar skulls are a highly respected part of the day of the Dead rituals. Sugar was brought to Mexico in the 17th century by Italian missionaries. Sugar cane was so easy to grow in Mexico, so there became an abundance of it in the country.

History of Sugar Skulls

As Mexico was converting to Catholicism, it found that their churches didn’t match up to the opulence of the ones in Europe. Mexico didn’t have enough money to import decorations or cover their churches in gold. But what they did have was sugar, which they could produce cheaply and in vast quantities. So, using clay moulds, they used sugar to create angels, crosses and more to decorate the interior of their churches. Eventually, these kinds of decorations made their way into the celebrations of Day of the Dead. Sugar skulls were created to represent the soul of the departed, and their name was written upon the forehead of the sugar skull. They were then laid on the grave or ofrenda to honour the spirit of the beloved one who had past. You can find still these sugar skulls in the marketplaces around Day of the Dead.

Corn Tortillas

Freshly made Corn Tortillas can be found inside the market. Corn Tortillas were first invented around 10,000 BC when corn was domesticated in Mexico. Corn was linked to life in Mexico. It was their primary source of carbs (which equals energy). During the Aztec empire, one of the most popular dishes was tortillas, with chilli sauce, beans and squash. Today local workers still come to tortillerias to get fresh tortillas, salsa, rice and beans, which they will bring to the worksite to enjoy for their lunch. Just like it was thousands of years ago. Some things never change…

Heladería Cubano

Towards the back of the market, stop at Heladería Cubano. The kind gentleman behind the counter serves up Cuban ice cream and milkshakes. The milkshakes are made with fresh creme, sugar, ice (made from filtered water) and your choice of fresh fruit. He also can add malt to the milkshakes, which give you that retro flavour. Such an exciting thing to find in the middle of a Mexican marketplace but not at all unwelcome. The Cuban ice cream maker is famous in the market for his natural flavours and thick creamy ice cream!

Meat and Seafood

Take a step into the fresh meat and seafood area. Definitely the most fragrant area of the market but still very exciting. People are always yelling joyfully at each other from across the room and large meat cleavers can be heard smashing into hunks of beef and pork all across the room. This is usually where there is the most action, with locals, home cooks and restaurant chefs, coming here to buy their meats for the day.

La Morenita de Medellín

One of the most popular eateries in the market is ‘Marisquería,’ also known as “La Morenita de Medellín.” This is one of the only places in landlocked Mexico City where you can reliably find incredible seafood! Hidden away inside this marketplace, you can try red snapper from Veracruz, fish covered in garlic and chilis, pulpo al ajillo (cooked octopus), the devil’s oysters (oysters cooked in butter) and Mexican paella (which came over with Spanish). Reliably a great option if you’re craving seafood!

La Flor de Xochimilco

La Flor de Xochimilco is one of the most popular eateries inside the market. They specialize in taco de barbacoa. Barbacoa actually originates from the Caribbean. Taco de barbacoa refers to slow-cooked meats, over an open fire. The meat is cooked till its super tender. Then tacos are served with diced onions, cilantro and lime juice to help cut the fatty taste of the meat. If you’ve never had a barbacoa taco, this is a must!

Meche y Rafael Carnitas

At the back corner, hidden away, if THE place for carnitas, Meche y Rafael! Unfortunately, it’s only open on Saturdays. Pork was introduced to Mexico by the Spanish in the 16th century. Carnitas is a Spanish word that means “little meats.” Carnitas are made using lean pork mean, which is sliced and marinated in seasoning for hours. The fat cut from the meat is used for frying the carnitas before they are eaten. This carnitas stand serves up with bountiful portions alongside slices of the city’s best chicharrón. Douse the tacos with plenty of salsa and pickled radishes to cut the grease; while it might not be the healthiest food, it might be the most delicious.

Outside Street Food

Around the perimeter of the marketplace, are always a few reliable street food stands, run by some of the nicest local women. If you’re looking for something delicious to try, order up the tlacoyo. Tlacoyo is made from blue corn dough and filled with beans. It’s then fried on the grill. Once cooked, they are garnished with Oaxaca or cotija cheese, nopales, salsa and chicharrón. So filling, delicious and impossibly cheap! If you’re there earlier in the morning, be sure to try their breakfast version, which was made with fried potatoes with chorizo. It’s fantastic!

La Michoacana

If you are looking to sample an agua fresca, hit up the La Michoacana. La Michoacana is actually a chain of ice cream parlours in Mexico City. And although their ice cream is never quite up to snuff, their agua frescas are reliably some of the best! Just ask anyone behind the counter if they’re made with filtered water (agua pura) to be sure it’s safe to drink. Agua frescas are more than just juice, they are these incredible beverages flavoured with uniquely Mexican flavours like tamarind, hibiscus, and horchata!

Tips for Visiting the Farmer’s Market

• Always bring cash and small change. Most marketplaces don’t take credit cards, and if you plan on haggling at all, don’t even think about using a credit card. Cash is king in the market. But big bills won’t work either. Most of these sellers won’t have a lot of change, and early in the day, you might find that don’t have change at all. I always keep a stash of coins with me at all times to ensure I have the exact amount when shopping in markets like these. Having small coins is also important for using public washrooms in places like this, as most charge 5 pesos for the bathroom.
  
• Beware of Pickpockets. Although this marketplace is much less of a target than some of the most touristy markets in other parts of town, you should always be aware of your surroundings. Keep your money in safe places, not easily accessible by someone else. For me, I keep some smaller change in my pockets and any bigger bills deep in my bag, where it would take some time to access. But honestly, just keeping your awareness of what and who is around you is the most important part of keeping safe.

• Ask before touching any food. Most of the seller won’t mind if you touch the food, in fact to buy some fruits and vegetables you need to give it a squeeze to see if it’s ripe! But some tourists touch EVERYTHING and it really bothers the sellers. I’ve seen some tourists come in and mess up their entire display without so much as moving one thing back into place. Just ask nicely if you can look or touch something and respect what the seller responds with. But honestly, just asking will win you over with them!

• Think before taking a picture. Some of the vendors inside the more touristy markets take umbrage with tourists taking photos of their stalls. The main reason for this is they don’t always want to be on camera but also, they don’t see themselves as a tourist attraction. They would prefer you to buy something instead of just taking pictures and yet walking away without contributing to any of the vendors who need money to keep their businesses running. I always look for a “no photos” sign first before taking a picture since that’s pretty clear cut. Often, I’ll even ask the vendors if it’s ok. If you’re purchased something you’re almost always ok to take a picture since the seller knows you’re not just using them as a prop, but actually care about the product.

• Travel Light. These types of markets are fairly crowded, with narrow aisles and products overflowing over the edges of the counters. This means carrying a huge backpack with you might not be the best idea. I would stick to a small bag for your shopping and a crossbody bag for your valuables.
  
• Be friendly. Locals are proud of their produce. Some of these farmers sell the very things they harvested that morning to shoppers. Giving them a smile, a hello, goodbye or good afternoon goes a long way in acclimatizing yourself into this neighbourhood market.

• If you don’t recognize something, don’t be afraid! Trying new things is what travelling is all about! The food at this market is incredibly fresh. These stands only stay open until 4 or 5 pm so the turn over is daily and nothing just gets left behind. The only thing I really avoid is water washed veggies, like salads, but anything cooked is fair game!

Learn some key Spanish phrases

When shopping in a local market like this you might not find a lot of people who speak English. To make a good impression and fit in with the locals, try to learn a few phrases. The most important phrases are the ones to do with prices so you’ll understand how much everything costs. I would recommend avoiding any haggling if you don’t speak Spanish competently since you’ll get over your head pretty fast.

Here are some of my key phrases for shopping:
good morning // Buenos días
good afternoon // buenas tardes
goodbye // adiós
how much? // Cuánto cuesta?
one, two, three // uno, dos, tres
What is this? // ¿Que es esto?
Thank you // Gracias
no, thank you // no, gracias
Can I touch? // ¿Puedo tocar?
Can I take a photo? // ¿Puedo tomar una foto?  

We first came to the market on a guided tour with Casa Jacaranda. I cannot recommend their cooking experience more so if you are interested in learning more about Mexican cuisine and Markets in Mexico check them out!

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But I read review after review and had to check it out for myself. And let me say, perhaps as a bit of a spoiler, I now understand why this is such a perfect experience. Casa Jacaranda offers more than just a cooking class. It’s a whole day of activities, discoveries, learning opportunities and a chance to make new friends.

Table Of Contents

1. About Casa Jacaranda
2. The Casa Jacaranda Cooking Class Experience
3. Mercado Medellín
4. Molino y Tortilleria Golilas De Amor
5. Roma Norte
6. Casa Jacaranda
7. The Menu
8. Making the Mole
9. Tamales
10. Cocktails
11. Rooftop Dinner
12. Prices:
13. Group Rates:

About Casa Jacaranda

The classes are offered Tuesday through Saturday. Beto Estúa and Jorge Fitz are the co-owners of Casa Jacaranda, and either one or both of them will join you on your culinary journey, depending on class size and availability.

Most classes are held in English, although there are some classes available in Spanish. The small class size (typically 6-8 people) means that you feel close with everyone there but have enough people to quickly cook these huge menus!

The day begins at 10 am and ends around 4:30 pm, so you really do get an entire day’s worth of entertainment out of the whole experience. The price per adult is $180 USD and children are $120 USD. While this might seem expensive, as mentioned, you get an entire day’s worth of entertainment and indulgence. Trust me on this, it’s worth every peso.

The Casa Jacaranda Cooking Class Experience

Mercado Medellín

The day began at the Mercado Medellín, in Roma Sur. The Mercado Medellín is easily identifiable by it’s red, green and yellow geometric painted exterior with stunning multicolour murals painted above. We stood at the meeting spot, just under the market’s sign, and met the other travelling cooks, two fellow Canadians and a mother-son duo from America. They were immediately so friendly and just as excited as we were! Beto arrived with his traditional shopping bags and his assistant in tow. He happily introduced himself to the group, and we collectively decided on the dishes we were set to prepare for the day.

About the Market

Before heading into the market. Beto took a moment outside to tell us all about the history of the market. This marketplace has stood here for over 150 years, although the more modern appearance is from renovations after the earthquake. When the marketplace was first established, it was in the centre of an immigrant community in Mexico City. Colombians, Cubans, Brazilian, Venezuelans and even Jewish immigrants all found themselves in the middle of the city in a neighbourhood now called Roma Sur. The immigrants would import food and goods from their home country to sell here in their new home in Mexico City. They sold both to locals who were interested in trying something new and other immigrants who wanted a taste of home.

Up until the earthquake of 1985, Jewish Mexicans owned and operated the market. But after the quake, its ownership passed hands over to the Cubans, therein earning the market its nickname; “Little Havana.” The entire space is now home to over 500 different stalls. If you were simply a regular tourist, this could be overwhelming, but Beto made sure to take us to all his favourite stalls and show us what you needed to see! Every one of them knew him by name and would wear a huge smile on their faces as we approached.

Mexican Chili Peppers

Our guide took us through the market to various sellers where we picked up ingredients for our meal. One of the most important ingredients in Mexican cuisine are chili peppers. Many of these peppers were going to be present in a few of our recipes, so it was essential to learn all about them! Some peppers have different names depending on if they are dried or fresh. In this market alone, we stopped and smelled over 15 different kinds of peppers. We learned where they were grown and how each of them could be used in various recipes. Some of the peppers were heavily smoked in addition to being dry, and it was amazing to smell the differences between just a dried pepper and a smoked and dried pepper.

Fruits and Vegetable Sellers

Next up, we visited the local fruits and veggie sellers, which is Beto’s favourite in the marketplace. This one stand has been run by the same family for five generations. He explained to us all about the different varieties of vegetables you can find in a traditional Mexican garden. In one garden beds, pretty much anywhere in Mexico, you can grow everything you need to sustain yourself. Beto told us all about which fruits and veggies were originally from Mexico and which were imported early in its colonization. Today, all of these are used together to form the fabric of Mexico’s culinary culture.

One of the oldest fruits to be included in the pinata was the Tejocote. These are still sold today in the market, but rarely are they always included in the pinatas. These Aztec fruits resemble a crabapple and are both similar in taste and shape but have the most wonderful golden colour.

Street Food

After looking at all this food, it was finally time to try some for ourselves. Just before the lunch rush, we headed to the back of the market, where a few ladies were preparing tlacoyo. You’ve probably seen tlacoyo all over the city but, if you were like me, had no idea what was in them. They’re made from blue corn dough and filled with beans and then fried on the grill. Once cooked, they are garnished with Oaxaca or cotija cheese, nopales, salsa and chicharrón.

We also tried out their breakfast version, which was made with fried potatoes cooked with chorizo. It was fantastic!

Molino y Tortilleria Golilas De Amor

This brought us to the end of the marketplace tour, so we headed on our way over to Casa Jacaranda. On our way, we past Beto’s favourite tortilla makers, Molino Y Tortilleria Golilas De Amor. Molino y Tortilleria Golilas De Amor hand makes corn tortilla, made from fresh masa every day. The kind old man behind the counter would grab a hot one fresh off the press and hand it to us to taste. You would first sprinkle some salt on top, then some salsa (spicy of course) and roll it up before eating it to ensure the salsa and salt was in every bite.

Corn tortillas were first invented around 10,000 BC when corn was domesticated in Mexico. Corn was life in Mexico, as it was their primary source of carbs (which equal energy). During the Aztec empire, one of the most popular dishes was tortillas, with chilli sauce, beans and squash. Today local workers still come to tortillerias to get fresh tortillas, salsa, rice and beans, which they will bring to the worksite to enjoy for their lunch. Just like it was thousands of years ago. Some things never change…

Roma Norte

The streets around Beto’s house were rich with incredible architecture. This neighbourhood was originally designed for the upper class in the early twentieth century, so they found the finest designers and architects to make masterfully houses. Art deco and neo-classical designs reign supreme here as do the enormous Jacaranda trees which line the streets, creating a canopy over the entire block.

Casa Jacaranda

Casa Jacaranda is named as such due to the rich collection of old Jacaranda trees on the street and the large one which hangs over Beto’s house. Jacaranda trees arrived in Mexico City from Brazil. Their large canopy and bright lavender blooms made them a hot commodity for any burgeoning neighbourhood!

When we first walked through the doors at Casa Jacaranda, we were gobsmacked. I had expected a simple kitchen or workspace, but what we found was a gorgeously restored and renovated 1930’s house. It was decorated floor to ceiling in beautiful works of art, historical ephemera and knickknacks, which represent the cultures and culinary traditions of Mexico. There were also so many personal mementos and pictures around the house, it truly made us feel at home. I found it hard to get my head in the game to cook since all I wanted to do was pour through the bookshelves and study the paintings on the wall.

The Menu

There are a variety of options for the menu which you’ll make with the group. Although some of us had reviewed the website and knew the options, we needed to make a choice as a group as to what we wanted to cook. We opted for the mole since we felt it had the richest in history, and we were all interested in that aspect of Mexican cooking. No matter what main meal you pick, you’ll always end up making a full menu with two appetizers, one entree and a dessert.

Making the Mole

The first recipe we dove into was the mole. Beto started off by laying out the method and all the steps needed for its preparation on the blackboard behind us. I’m not going to share that with you here since it was his own adapted recipe and something he has perfected over the years. But if you yourself book a class with him he shares with the class all those recipes and more and you come away with almost a full recipe book of printed meals to make at home!

Mole is made with 28 different ingredients, although Beto kindly makes his with 26 since he removes the bread (gluten) and the peanuts, so this recipe can more easily accommodate a variety of allergies. Beto’s mole is adapted from a version of the recipe from Puebla, a region in the east which is known for its culinary history and traditions. Beto has been making this recipe for years with his family, so you really feel like you’re making something that was designed to be made with love.

Ingredients

Before we even arrived, all the ingredients were laid out for us. Beto’s handy assistant had torn through the market to buy all the supplies we needed while we were leisurely wandered through the market. This allowed us to learn from Beto about all the component which now sat on the table before us.

One of our favourite parts of the experience was just listening to Beto chat away about the history of some of these ingredients and recipes and how they came to be. He really was a wealth of information and entertainment all to himself.

Red and Green Salsa

Then it was time for the salsas. We made two salsas; fresh green salsa with a more spicy kick and a rich, smokey red salsa. The green salsa was my absolute favourite. I could have eaten it all day with anything! Despite only having five ingredients, the way it was prepared made it taste like the most complex and amazing thing you ever put in your mouth!

To make the red salsa, we used a molcajete, a stone tool like the American mortar and pestle. We learned all about how to care for a molcajete and saw three different ones that Beto owned; one was his own, one was his mother’s, and the last, his grandmother’s. Each one looked the same and yet different, the older they got, the smoother their surface. It was like working with a piece of his family’s history.

Tamales

Next up were the tamales! Every morning on the streets, you’ll see hundreds of men and women either on bikes or set up on street corners selling tamales. Tamales are super popular at breakfast time since they are hearty, cheap and SAFE to eat (since they are made by continually steaming the food, keeping it sanitary). The recipe for tamales is thought to date all the way back to Mesoamerica in around 5000 BC. A ‘tamal’ is made from corn masa, which is filled with either meat, cheese, or vegetables.

Corn Tortillas

Finally, it was time for us to learn how to make tortillas from scratch! Despite meeting our amazing tortilla maker, there is just nothing like fresh tortillas hot off the grill. We had such a good time learning when to flip the tortillas and how to make them puff up in the perfect way! It was a busy, laugh-inducing experience that had us all grinning ear to ear.

Cocktails

Now that all our recipes were finished, it was time for a drink! Beto made us all a Paloma, served with traditional Mexican tequila and finished with a slice of grapefruit and a pink peppercorn salted rim!

After all this busy cooking, it was nice to sit down and enjoy each other’s company. We had chatted a bit with our fellow cooks, but while we started to dig into the beef tacos, we finally had the chance to talk more in-depth and learn all about them. It was one of the guest’s birthdays the day we were there, and we had many “happy birthday” cheers and made the entire night a big celebration! It felt like having dinner with friends by the end of the night.

Rooftop Dinner

After we were finished cooking, we were escorted upstairs to the rooftop garden and dining table. The beautiful table was laid out under the jacaranda tree. Despite the tree not being in bloom when we visited, there were plenty of other plants and flowers on the rooftop to make us feel like we were dining in a tropical forest.

The meal was served with some incredible Mexican wine and fresh hibiscus juice, which paired perfectly with everything on the table! We dove right into the food, so quickly in fact that I completely forgot to take a picture of my beautiful plate. But here is a shot of our smiling faces which say it all.

The mole was served with shredded chicken. We eat it along with some incredible garlic rice we made earlier. Atop the mole you absolutely must dress it with a sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds and thinly sliced onions. Both these two items seem to make such a massive difference in the flavour. I have had mole a few times and have to say it’s not always my favourite. Often it’s just too sweet. But this mole was perfect, not too sweet, not too bitter, and so flavourful!

Tequila & Mezcal

The end of the meal was finished off with a tequila and mezcal flight. We tried some truly unique varieties, some of which you couldn’t even find in stores! This is the perfect ‘sobremesa.’ A sobremesa is a Spanish tradition of relaxing at the table after a heavy meal. We sipped our liqueurs and asked everyone about their time in the city. We shared our favourite food spots and sights in the city, and I made more than a few notes of restaurants to try out next time we’re in town!

I hope this gives you some insight into what a day with Beto and the Casa Jacaranda is like. So if you’re like me and were on the fence about whether or not you should book this experience, it helps you make your decision. And honestly, DO NOT HESITATE to book it ASAP. This is more than a cooking class. It is a day out with friends. A historical lecture. A DELICIOUS home-cooked meal. An insightful study of Mexican food. And best of all, a learning experience you can bring home with you to share with your family and friends.

The post Casa Jacaranda, the Best Cooking Class in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. History
3. #1 Have Breakfast at Café Avellaneda
4. #2 Explore the Old Iglesia de Coyoacán
5. #3 Grab a snack in Hidalgo Plaza
6. #4 Have Lunch in Mercado de Coyoacán
7. #5 Learn about Mexico's Pop Culture at the Museo Culturas Populares
8. #6 Take a Walk in Frida’s Footsteps at La Casa Azul
9. #7 See the spot where Leon Trotsky was assassinated
10. #8 Have a pick me up at Cafe El Jarocho
11. #9 Grab some dessert at Helados Coyoacán
12. #10 Wander the historical Avenida Francisco Sosa
13. #11 Find the Golden Church inside the Parque Santa Catarina
14. #12 Relax under the palm tree in Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
15. #13 Get some fresh air Viveros de Coyoacán
16. #14 See a film Cineteca Nacional

Access

The best way to get to Coyaocan, and our first stop on tour, is by Uber. You can also take the Metro, Line 3 to Coyoacan Station, but the station is a bit of a walk from the main areas of the tour. Ubers, as long as you take them outside of peak rush hour, are only about $5 US from the centre of Mexico City.

History

The village of Coyoacán was founded in the 12th century by the Tepanec tribe. This tribe migrated from the Valley of Mexico and settled themselves in Coyoacán. There they shared a common language, Nahuatl, and mythology with the surrounding villages. Unfortunately, despite the common language and culture, the tribes were not allies for long and for centuries they fought against one and other to conquer the land they controlled.

When Hernán Cortés arrived on their shores in 1519 the Tepanec, who hated the native Mexicas, were more than happy to assist him in his mission to conquer them. When the capital of Mexico was moved to Mexico City, Coyoacán remained a quiet village, outside the influence of such political and commercial urbanization. Even today, they do not suffer from the same urban sprawl as the rest of Mexico City. You can find narrows street filled with charming post-colonial architecture amongst ancient cobblestones and gardens.

#1 Have Breakfast at Café Avellaneda

While many places in Coyoacán open later in the morning, Café Avellaneda opens bright and early at 8 am! While this might be a tad early for some, for us morning people it’s a rare find! This quaint cafe is the perfect place to start your day. Start with one of their featured artisan lattes. Coffee in Mexico City is out of this world! Their selection of fresh-baked goods is superb with sweet cakes decorating their window display, enticing customers to come inside. We opted for a full breakfast and got the chilaquiles verde and the daily special pancakes with season fruits! It was absolutely delicious and I cannot recommend it more.

#2 Explore the Old Iglesia de Coyoacán

The Iglesia De Coyoacán was built between 1520 and 1552. Originally the church and its cloister were run by the Dominican order. But when Hernan Cortes entered the picture, he gave it to the Franciscan parish. Over the years the church has changed its appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. Surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations. The atrium, now the Plaza del Centenario, was once the church’s cemetery. Today walking on these grounds is considered a holy spot as the gravestones are thought to be under the roads and pathways built on top.

The interior is covered in baroque gilded decorations and the ceiling topped with a mindblowing ceiling fresco of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Most of the work was done by indigenous hands, and their artwork is in the process of being preserved and studied. The studies aim to determine what materials were used in creating this vast variety of colours. They want to know how such simplistic elements could achieve the same finesse as the professional supplies used in European constructions.

The Monastery

The monastery is located on the upper two floors surrounding a large courtyard. To this day the original wood beams and decorative work in remains, preserved almost my divine hands from the fires which ravaged the rest of the church. When we visited, there were a large group of locals, praying on their way to work. Religion in Mexico is still very much part of the fabric of everyday life. Unlike some churches in Europe which feel more like a historical relics, these buildings serve a practical purpose as well as being visually appealing.

#3 Grab a snack in Hidalgo Plaza

In the middle of Hidalgo Plaza is a large 20th-century stained glass-topped gazebo. The cupola on top is capped with a bronze sculpture of an eagle from the Mexican flag’s coat of arms. Around the gazebo, especially on the weekends, you’ll find musicians entertaining parties and locals out enjoying the sunshine or relaxing on the benches under the shade of the trees. Children are seen playing in the square, and brightly coloured balloon and toy vendors peddle their wares. There is always someone selling tamales in the morning or street tacos in the afternoon. My favourite street food snack is Elote (corn with mayonnaise, fresh cheese, lemon, salt and chile) or ‘Papas de carrito‘ (potato chips, churritos or fried pork rinds with lemon and salsa). No matter what time of the day, this square is bustling with action.

#4 Have Lunch in Mercado de Coyoacán

The Mercado de Coyoacán has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. The newest part of the structure was built in the 1950s but the original, much smaller, marketplace was where both Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul.

Before entering the interior of the market, stop at the sidewalk entrance on the corner of Malintzin and Ignacio Allende where you’ll find El Jardín del Pulpo. El Jardín del Pulpo translates into ‘The Octopus’s Garden‘ where you can indulge in Coyoacán’s best street seafood. While it might seem a little more expensive than regular street food you’ll be eating such luxuries as lobster, langostino and you MUST give their GIANT shrimp cocktails a try!

Shopping in the Market

Inside the market, I found to have even more exciting vendors than the artisan market. You’ll find colourful Tehuana fabrics, the same as Frida would have worn in her day. There are dozens of flower stands, filling that side of the marketplace with rich aromas. Giant bowls of freshly ground mole powder are on display, take a look at all the different kinds of mole there are. You can find perfume, candles and a plethora of seasonal party decorations which hang from the ceiling making it look like entering a huge party!

But the main reason for visiting this market is to try Tostadaa Coyoacan ! At lunchtime, the lines can get pretty long, but it moves quickly and gives you time to scope out what you want to try. The shtrimp ceviche tostadas with thick slices of avocado to cut the acidity are absolute perfection! If eating raw seafood is a little too adventurous for you, try their famous shredded chicken; simple, moist and flavourful! There are six different eating areas with bar-style seating, so even at the busiest time of day you can almost always find somewhere to saddle up.

El Borrego de Oro

Barbacoa is another traditional dish to try in the Coyacán market. If you’re visiting on a Saturdays and Sundays, find your war to El Borrego de Oro or ‘The Golden Sheep’ stand at the back of the market. The shreds of tender meat atop freshly made tortillas are absolute heaven.

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#5 Learn about Mexico’s Pop Culture at the Museo Culturas Populares

The National Museum of Popular Culture is one of the most vibrant museums you’ll visit anywhere in the world. Rather than old painting or ancient relics, the museum focuses on temporary exhibitions which rotate and change throughout the year. They call themselves a living entity. There is always something new to see. But regardless of what is on exhibition, there will also be items featuring expressions of popular, indigenous and urban cultures. The museum is a great place to come to learn about Mexico’s current culture and art scene. 

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#6 Take a Walk in Frida’s Footsteps at La Casa Azul

What most people come to Coyocan for is the Casa Azul, also known as the Frida Kahlo Museum. The Casa Azul was where Mexican artist Frida Kahlo grew up, became an artist, got married and even died. She lived there with her husband Diego Rivera and together the two of them transformed a simple home into an artists retreat. After her death, the artworks of Frida Kahlo became an international sensation, gaining notoriety more and more as time went on. A hidden genius being discovered after her death, like it so often goes. But Frida herself has become an icon and cultural phenomenon.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art and being able to tour their home exactly as it was when they lived and worked inside it. Throughout the house you’ll see their collections of pre-Hispanic artefacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more. You feel a deep connection with these artists by literally walking in their footsteps, and this is an unmissable experience for anyone interested in art or Frida herself.

#7 See the spot where Leon Trotsky was assassinated

If you’re interested in visiting more of the interiors of Mexico City’s famous residences, you should check out the Leon Trotsky House Museum. Trotsky was a Russian revolutionary, Marxist theorist, and Soviet politician who was expelled from Russia in 1929 fpr his radical beliefs. He sought exile all over the world, but it was Diego Rivera who asked the Mexican government to allow him to come to Mexico City to seek political asylum. Trotsky stayed with Diego and Frida until 1939 when his affair with Frida and disagreements with Diego became too inflamed.

After this, he moved into the house, which is now the Trotsky museum. Unfortunately, Trotsky wasn’t safe in Mexico City for long as he was assassinated in this very house. The house is today left in much the same condition as it was the day he died. In fact, the room where he was murdered still has the books he was reading and papers he was writing strewn about untouched. Walking up to it, it looks like a fortress, complete with tall watchtower where there were once armed guards. You can still see the bullet holes from his assassination attack on the outer walls of the house. Even if you don’t know much about Trotsky, it’s an interesting way to see what life in Mexico City looked like in the 1930s.

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#8 Have a pick me up at Cafe El Jarocho

For a little pick-me-up, head over to Cafe El Jarocho. This place has been serving customers in Coyoacán for 63 years and is a veritable piece of history. It’s an unpretentious coffee shop and a great alternative to just another Starbucks. Give their mocha a try since it’s well-known for being made with traditional Mexican chocolate and some of their locally grown beans.

#9 Grab some dessert at Helados Coyoacán

This ice cream shop across from the park has been serving up traditional flavours of ice cream inspired by the many different fruits which grow only around this part of the country. Don’t recognize the name or a certain flavour? Give it a try! You might be totally shocked to find a new favourite flavour, even if you had no idea what it actually was. This is an especially good treat if you’re visiting on a hot day. Grab a few scoops and relax under the shade of the park nearby.

#10 Wander the historical Avenida Francisco Sosa

Heading over to our next destination, we set out along the Avenida Francisco Sosa. This is my favourite street in the entire city. The street is over 450 years old and connected Coyacán with the village of San Ángel. There are over 60 different buildings along the road which have been honoured by National Institute of Anthropology and History as being historical monuments.

One of the most famous buildings to see is Casa De Diego De Ordaz. It was built in the 18th century, and the facade is decorated in this fantastic Mudejar style which was popular at the time. The most remarkable features of the building are the reliefs made by indigenous people of Coyoacán. Further down the road, you’ll pass the Instituto Italiano de Cultura or Italian Cultural Institute. This building is most recognizable by its red façade with bright white Moorish decorations. It was built between the 17th and 18th centuries and now houses the cultural offices of the Italian Embassy.

#11 Find the Golden Church inside the Parque Santa Catarina

The marigold colour you can spot from afar which dominates this lovely parkette is from the adorable facade of the church of Santa Catarina. This chapel was built for use by the indigenous population in the very early colonial period. If you have the chance to step inside, you’ll find preserved 16th-century ornamental work. You’ll also we able to look on in wonder at s 400-year-old mural. The square around the church is the site of many a celebration, and there is usually remnant of those events still holding onto the sunlight the next morning. A great photo opportunity.

#12 Relax under the palm tree in Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

Across from the park is the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This cultural centre is free to enter and a beautiful place to rest your feet or just explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property. In this public centre, you’ll see people writing essays under the trees, practising dance, learning music, having heated morning meetings!

There is even a little cafe and restaurant if you want to stay and enjoy the space a bit longer. You are free to roam around both inside and out. I loved wandering up and down the different floors of the old house trying to see what I could discover. I found their old kitchen, bathroom and some gorgeous tile work from the 19th century. In the middle of the ground is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple.

#13 Get some fresh air Viveros de Coyoacán

Head north along Calle Salvador Novo towards Avenue Progreso where you’ll head east until you reach the entrance to Viveros de Coyoacán National Park. This 100-year-old park is run by the Secretary of Environment and Natural Resources. The main objective of the park is to grow and then replant different varieties of trees to reforest the entire metropolitan area of Mexico City. Different species of trees are dedicated to specific sectors of the city and walking through here you can learn all about the diverse flora and fauna Mexico is famous for.

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#14 See a film Cineteca Nacional

The Cineteca Nacional or The National Film Archives has 30 different movie theatres housed inside one of the most impressive modern pieces of architecture Mexican architect Michel Rojkind in Coyoacán. Cineteca Nacional often features a variety of different kinds of film programming from National and International projects. It also houses a cafe and a variety of hip restaurants and bars. At night time during the warmer months, there is even an area outside where you can see movies under the stars!

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The post 14 of the Best Places to Visit in Coyoacán to Spend the Perfect Day in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

This guided walking tour will lead you across the all the important stops in Coyoacán. I think to take it at a leisurely pace, leave yourself a whole day so you can take your time and go inside a few of the stops along the way. A google map with all the locations on the tour can be found at the bottom of this post.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. History
   • Map Of Walking Tour
   • Begin at: Frida Kahlo Park
   • Plaza de la Conchita
   • Casa de la Malinche
   • Breakfast at Café Avellaneda
   • Calle de Higuera
   • Iglesia de Coyoacán
     • Church Interior
   • Centenario Plaza
   • Hidalgo Plaza
   • Casa Municipal
   • Mercado Artesanal
   • Mercado de Coyoacán
     • Market Stalls
   • La Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo Museum
   • Leon Trotsky House Museum
   • Cafe El Jarocho
   • Le Bipo
   • Churreria General de la Republica
   • La Casa Del Coleccionista
   • Avenida Francisco Sosa
   • Casa De Diego De Ordaz
   • Italian Cultural Institute
   • Parque Santa Catarina
   • Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
     • Frida and Diego Statue
   • Barricas Don Tiburcio
   • Fonoteca Nacional
   • Viveros de Coyoacán
   • Centenario 107
   • Cineteca Nacional

Access

The best way to get to Coyaocan, and our first stop on tour, is by Uber. You can also take the Metro, but the station is quite far away from our starting point. Ubers, as long as you take them outside of peak rush hour, are only about $5 US from the centre of Mexico City. The journey takes around 25 minutes depending on traffic.

History

The village of Coyoacán was founded in the 12th century by the Tepanec tribe. This tribe migrated from the Valley of Mexico and settled themselves in Coyoacán. There they shared a common language, Nahuatl, with the surrounding villages. Unfortunately, despite the common language and culture, the tribes were not allies for long and for centuries they fought against one and other to conquer land.

When Hernán Cortés arrived on their shores of Mexico in 1519, the Tepanec, who hated the native Mexican tribes, were more than happy to assist him in his mission to conquer them. Cortés established himself in Coyoacán with the tribe he had become close with. He brought with him much wealth and Coyoacán bloomed as one of the most beautiful villages in the world, not just in Mexico. When the capital of Mexico was moved to Mexico City, Coyoacán remained a quiet village, outside the influence of such political and commercial urbanization. Even today, they do not suffer from the same urban sprawl as the rest of Mexico City. You can still find narrows street filled with charming post-colonial architecture amongst ancient cobblestones and lush green gardens.

Map Of Walking Tour

Begin at: Frida Kahlo Park

Wake up bright and early and head on down to the start of your tour, Frida Kahlo Park. Since Frida is the most well-known resident of the neighbourhood, it seems fitting to start our journey here. This square honours the memory of the great Mexican painter. You can find a bronze sculpture of her with a full Tehuana dress, standing proudly in the centre of the plaza. Beside her, is her husband, Diego Rivera, looking on lovingly. This park has a very structured layout, the bushes around it perfectly pruned and geometric shapes, resembling those of Aztec pyramids forming the archway overtop of the pathway.

 

 

 

 

 

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Plaza de la Conchita

Early in the morning, this peaceful square is practically empty. Only a few tamale sellers might be seen passing through on their way to hot spots in the centre of Coyoacán. In the middle of this square stands the Chapel of the Immaculate Conception Church, or “La Conchita“. La Conchita is a nickname for the church which literally translate into, “the little shell”. Although the church is now closed for restoration work, walking around this plaza will still provide an excellent introduction to the neighbourhood.

When the Spanish conquistador Hernan Cortes arrived in Coyoacán, he built this Church on what once was a pre-Hispanic ceremonial site. This was where Cortes held the very first Christian mass in the new land. The building’s exterior has an incredible stonework patterned facade, meant to resemble a the texture of a shell. The restoration taking place is attempting to repaint the church the same canary yellow as it once would have been coloured.

Casa de la Malinche

Walking north along the park, along Higuera street, you’ll pass the Casa de la Malinche. Although not open to the public, this house is thought to have been initially built for Cortés’ Spanish wife, Catalina Juárez de Marcaida. ‘La Malinche’ is the Spanish word for ‘the captain’s woman‘. Catalina Juárez de Marcaida was murdered in this very spot as she was seen to be a traitor to her people and even sometimes blamed for the downfall of the Aztec empire.

Breakfast at Café Avellaneda

While many places in Coyoacán open later in the morning, Café Avellaneda opens bright and early at 8 am! While this might be a tad early for some, for us morning people it’s a rare find! This quaint cafe is the perfect place to start your day. Start with one of their featured artisan lattes. Coffee in Mexico City is out of this world! Their selection of fresh-baked goods is superb with sweet cakes decorating their window display, enticing customers to come inside. We opted for a full breakfast and got the chilaquiles verde and the daily special pancakes with season fruits! It was absolutely delicious and I cannot recommend it more.

Calle de Higuera

Walking along the Calle de Higuera, up towards our next stop, take some time to observe the houses and buildings on either side of the street. This is one of the oldest streets in the city. Many of these homes were built in the colonial era and have been catalogued for their historical value.

Iglesia de Coyoacán

The Iglesia De Coyoacán was built between 1520 and 1552. Originally the church and its cloister were run by the Dominican order. But when Hernan Cortes entered the picture, he gave it to the Franciscan parish. Over the years the church has changed appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. Surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations. The atrium, now the Plaza del Centenario, was once the church’s cemetery. Today walking on these grounds is considered a holy spot as the gravestones are thought to be under the roads and pathways built on top.

Church Interior

The interior is covered in baroque gilded decorations and the ceiling topped with a mindblowing ceiling fresco of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Most of the work was done by indigenous hands, and their artwork is in the process of being preserved and studied. The studies aim to determine what materials were used in creating this vast variety of colours.

They want to know how such simplistic elements could achieve the same finesse as the professional supplies used in European constructions. The monastery portion of the church is located on the upper two floors surrounding a large courtyard. To this day the original wood beams and decorative work in remains, preserved almost my divine hands from the fires which ravaged the rest of the church. When we visited, there were a large group of locals, praying on their way to work. Religion in Mexico is still very much part of the fabric of everyday life. Unlike some churches in Europe which feel more like a historical relics, these buildings serve a practical purpose as well as being visually appealing.

Centenario Plaza

Spend some time wandering the two adjoining parks, the Centenario Garden and Hidalgo Plaza. The gated entrance to the Jardin del Centenario is marked by a gorgeous double archway which they call the ‘Arcadas Atrial’ or the ‘Arcos del Jardín del Centenario‘. It was once part of the entrance to the old 16th century Parish Church of San Juan Bautista built during the colonial period. Stone pieces from the original building were woven onto either side of the archway. Take a closer look to see how decorative motifs from that period depict both European and indigenous influence.

In the centre of Centenario Plaza is a fountain which contains a bronze sculpture of two coyotes, which refer to the borough’s name. The name Coyoacán comes from the Nahuatland word meaning “place of coyotes.” Today you’ll see the symbol of the coyote everywhere you look; on park benches, on street corners and even in flower gardens! On either side of the garden are lush Indian laurel trees which spread out to form a canopy over the walkway below. Underfoot, the street is paved with red and black volcanic stone from Mexico.

Hidalgo Plaza

In the middle of Hidalgo Plaza is a large 20th century stained glass-topped gazebo. The cupola on top is capped with a bronze sculpture of an eagle from the Mexican flag’s coat of arms. Around the gazebo, especially on the weekends, you’ll find musicians entertaining parties and locals out enjoying the sunshine or relaxing on the benches under the shade of the trees. Children are seen playing in the square, and brightly coloured balloon and toy vendors peddle their wares. There is always someone selling tamales in the morning or street tacos in the afternoon. My favourite street food snack is Elote (corn with mayonnaise, fresh cheese, lemon, salt and chile) or ‘Papas de carrito‘ (potato chips, churritos or fried pork rinds with lemon and salsa). No matter what time of the day, this square is bustling with action.

Casa Municipal

Across from Hidalgo Plaza, you’ll find the Hernan Cortés house or Casa Municipal. It was built in the 18th century as an administration building for the government. Although called the Cortes house, the conquistador never lived here. He did in fact life in Coyoacán from 1521 to 1522 but never on this property, even though a placard on the building says he did...the original fake news I suppose. Perhaps he simply spent so many hours inside these walls that people simply assumed he must live there.

Cortés resided on a piece of land once owned by the indigenous leader of Coyoacán, Juan de Guzmán Iztolinque, located where we now find La Conchita Church. The current incarnation of the Casa Municipal was built in the 18th century by Cortés’ descendants. The building was where the government of Coyoacán did all their business until 1928 when this district was absorbed as a municipality of Mexico City.

Mercado Artesanal

Across the street from Hidalgo Plaza is the yellow archway entrance to the Mercado Artesanal Coyoacán. While this artist market is less impressive than the Mercado De Artesanias La Ciudadela, the courtyard of the Artesanal market here well worth checking out for the beautiful ‘papel picado’ (pecked paper) which hang from either side of the small garden. The prices in this market are actually very reasonable (sometimes cheaper than in the city centre), but the selection isn’t extensive. I did find some beautiful glass work which I hadn’t seen anywhere though so you really never know what you’ll find. And if this is your only opportunity to visit a market in Mexico City than this is a great opportunity.

Mercado de Coyoacán

Head north along Aguayo and turn down Ignacio Allende where you’ll spot the terra cotta roof tiles of the Mercado de Coyoacán. This market has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. The newest part of the structure was built in the 1950s but the original, much smaller, market place was where both Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul.

Before entering the interior of the market, stop at the sidewalk entrance on the corner of Malintzin and Ignacio Allende where you’ll find El Jardín del Pulpo. El Jardín del Pulpo translates into ‘The Octopus’s Garden‘ where you can indulge in Coyoacán’s best street seafood. While it might seem a little more expensive than regular street food you’ll be eating such luxuries as lobster, langostino and you MUST give their GIANT shrimp cocktails a try!

Market Stalls

Inside the market, I found to have even more exciting vendors than the artisan market. You’ll find colourful Tehuana fabrics, the same as Frida would have worn in her day. There are dozens of flower stands, filling that side of the marketplace with rich aromas. Giant bowls of freshly ground mole powder are on display, take a look at all the different kinds of mole there are. You can find perfume, candles and a plethora of seasonal party decorations which hang from the ceiling making it look like entering a huge party!

But the main reason for visiting this market is to try Tostadaa Coyoacan! At lunchtime, the lines can get pretty long, but it moves quickly and gives you time to scope out what you want to try. The shrimp ceviche tostadas with thick slices of avocado to cut the acidity are absolute perfection! If eating raw seafood is a little too adventurous for you, try their famous shredded chicken; simple, moist and flavourful! There are six different eating areas with bar-style seating, so even at the busiest time of day you can almost always find somewhere to saddle up.

Barbacoa is another traditional dish to try in the Coyacán market. If you’re visiting on a Saturdays and Sundays, find your war to El Borrego de Oro or ‘The Golden Sheep’ stand at the back of the market. The shreds of tender meat atop freshly made tortillas are absolute heaven.

 

 

 

 

 

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La Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo Museum

What most people come to Coyocan for is the Casa Azul, also known as the Frida Kahlo Museum. The Casa Azul was where Mexican artist Frida Kahlo grew up, became an artist, got married and even died. She lived there with her husband Diego Rivera and together the two of them transformed a simple home into an artists retreat. After her death, the artworks of Frida Kahlo became an international sensation, gaining notoriety more and more as time went on. A hidden genius being discovered after her death, like it so often goes. But Frida herself has become an icon and cultural phenomenon.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art and being able to tour their home exactly as it was when they lived and worked inside it. Throughout the house you’ll see their collections of pre-Hispanic artefacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more. You feel a deep connection with these artists by literally walking in their footsteps, and this is an unmissable experience for anyone interested in art or Frida herself.

Leon Trotsky House Museum

If you’re interested in visiting more of the interiors of Mexico City’s famous residences, you should check out the Leon Trotsky House Museum. Trotsky was a Russian revolutionary, Marxist theorist, and Soviet politician who was expelled from Russia in 1929 fpr his radical beliefs. He sought exile all over the world, but it was Diego Rivera who asked the Mexican government to allow him to come to Mexico City to seek political asylum. Trotsky stayed with Diego and Frida until 1939 when his affair with Frida and disagreements with Diego became too inflamed.

After this, he moved into the house, which is now the Trotsky museum. Unfortunately, Trotsky wasn’t safe in Mexico City for long as he was assassinated in this very house. The house is today left in much the same condition as it was the day he died. In fact, the room where he was murdered still has the books he was reading and papers he was writing strewn about untouched. Walking up to it, it looks like a fortress, complete with tall watchtower where there were once armed guards. You can still see the bullet holes from his assassination attack on the outer walls of the house. Even if you don’t know much about Trotsky, it’s an interesting way to see what life in Mexico City looked like in the 1930s.

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Cafe El Jarocho

For a little pick me up, head over to Cafe El Jarocho. This place has been serving customers in Coyoacán for 63 years and is a veritable piece of history. It’s an unpretentious coffee shop and a great alternative to just another Starbucks. Give their mocha a try since it’s well-known for being made with traditional Mexican chocolate and some of their locally grown beans.

Le Bipo

If coffee won’t suffice and you’re looking for something a little more intense, head across to Le Bipo, across from Allende Park. This hip bar is a stylish place for an afternoon drink and some great people watching. For something really unique, try the Mauricio Garcés, a mezcal and with frozen pineapple soda, topped with chili powder.

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Churreria General de la Republica

On your way back towards the western part of down, you’ll pass back from through the Jardin Centenario once more. Across from the park is the Churreria General de la Republica which sells some fantastic churros, served up with a variety of dipping sauces. I love a churro but I think I love dipping them even more! If you’re hankering for a snack, this is a great place to stop for a quick break and take a seat in the park.

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La Casa Del Coleccionista

Right around the corner from the churros bakery is La Casa Del Coleccionista. This little shop sells antiques of all kinds. You can find everything from flatware, toys, paintings, vases, coins and more! Even if you don’t leave with anything, this place is like visiting a museum of Coyoacán’s ephemera.

Avenida Francisco Sosa

Heading over to our next destination, we set out along the Avenida Francisco Sosa. This is my favourite street in the entire city. The street is over 450 years old and connected Coyacán with the village of San Ángel. There are over 60 different buildings along the road which have been honoured by National Institute of Anthropology and History as being historical monuments.

Casa De Diego De Ordaz

One of the most famous buildings to see is Casa De Diego De Ordaz. It was built in the 18th century, and the facade is decorated in this fantastic Mudejar style which was popular at the time. The most remarkable features of the building are the reliefs made by indigenous people of Coyoacán.

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Italian Cultural Institute

Further down the road, you’ll pass the Instituto Italiano de Cultura or Italian Cultural Institute. This building is most recognizable by its red façade with bright white Moorish decorations. It was built between the 17th and 18th centuries and now houses the cultural offices of the Italian Embassy.

Parque Santa Catarina

For a quiet break, stop off in the Parque Santa Catarina. The marigold colour you can spot from afar which dominates this lovely parkette is from the adorable facade of the church of Santa Catarina. This chapel was built for use by the indigenous population in the very early colonial period. If you have the chance to step inside, you’ll find preserved 16th-century ornamental work. You’ll also we able to look on in wonder at s 400-year-old mural. The square around the church is the site of many a celebration, and there is usually remnant of those events still holding onto the sunlight the next morning. A great photo opportunity.

Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

Across from the park is the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This cultural centre is free to enter and a beautiful place to rest your feet or just explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property.

In this public centre, you’ll see people writing essays under the trees, practising dance, learning music, having heated morning meetings! There is even a little cafe and restaurant if you want to stay and enjoy the space a bit longer. You are free to roam around both inside and out. I loved wandering up and down the different floors of the old house trying to see what I could discover. I found their old kitchen, bathroom and some gorgeous tile work from the 19th century.

Frida and Diego Statue

In the middle of the ground is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple. Behind the walls of the garden, to the south, see if you can see the rooftop of La Callejón del Aguacate. This house is one of the most haunted in the Coyoacan. It is said to be haunted by the ghost of a woman and is a frequent place where local school children will be seen ghost hunting after hours.

Barricas Don Tiburcio

Continuing along Avenue Francisco Sosa, stop in at one of the most adorable groceries stores, Barricas Don Tiburcio. This boutique shop sells the finest wines from all around Mexico, if you’re a big wine fan, they are very well versed in the different varieties and can send you home with a real winner. They also sell delicious handcrafted Mexican products such as Oaxaca cheese, grasshoppers, prickly pear candies, peanut jams, queso chihuahua and more!

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Fonoteca Nacional

Towards the end of Avenue Francisco Sosa you’ll come upon the colourful Fonoteca Nacional, also known as the “House of Sounds of Mexico“. This beautiful building and the tranquil gardens which surround it, is the perfect place to come and wander to see if anything is going on. There is often free concerts or exhibitions happening in the various rooms, so it’s worth poking your head inside to see what’s going on.

Viveros de Coyoacán

Head north along Calle Salvador Novo towards Avenue Progreso where you’ll head east until you reach the entrance to Viveros de Coyoacán National Park. This 100-year-old park is run by the Secretary of Environment and Natural Resources. The main objective of the park is to grow and then replant different varieties of trees to reforest the entire metropolitan area of Mexico City. Different species of trees are dedicated to specific sectors of the city and walking through here you can learn all about the diverse flora and fauna Mexico is famous for.

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Centenario 107

After a long walk through the park, it’s time for dinner. Stop off at Centenario 107 for a laid back, colourful dinner. Colourful both in the atmosphere, decor as well as the food! There is an excellent selection of traditional delicacies as well as local craft beers and speciality mezcals.

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Cineteca Nacional

Our last stop on tour, as the sun begins to set is at the Cineteca Nacional or The National Film Archives. This 30 screen movie theatre is housed inside one of the most impressive modern pieces of architecture Mexican architect Michel Rojkind in Coyoacán. Cineteca Nacional often features a variety of different kinds of film programming from National and International projects. It also houses a cafe and a variety of hip restaurants and bars. At night time during the warmer months, there is even an area outside where you can see movies under the stars!

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