Table Of Contents

1. #1 Start with a Walk Around La Condesa
2. #2 Museo de Arte Popular
3. #3 Xochimilco
4. #4 Bosque de Chapultepec
5. #5 Lucha Libre
6. #6 Mercado Artesanías Ciudadela
7. #7 Casa Azul Frida Kahlo
8. #8 San Angel Arts Market
9. #9 Street Food
10. #10 Sundays on Paseo de Reforma

#1 Start with a Walk Around La Condesa

The first thing I recommend to any first-time traveller to Mexico City is to take a walk. This helps not only acclimatize you to the altitude, but also your neighbourhood. And my #1 recommendation for the best streets to comfortably and safely wander is in La Condesa. It can be a casual stroll or an in-depth guided tour. Start the day off right by meeting the friendly locals, sampling the food, and soaking up the exemplary historic architecture. And incredible green spaces. La Condesa has become somewhat of a tourist hot spot over the years. But as such, it’s really really accessible to foreigners. While still maintaining that amazing Mexico City vibe that absolutely permeates the entire city.

#2 Museo de Arte Popular

While many guides will put the Templo Mayor and Anthrolopgoy museum in their top museum spots, for me, it has got to be the Museo de Arte Popular. The Museo de Arte Popular (Museum of Popular Art) is a cultural treasure of great importance to the Mexican people. It showcases Mexico’s vibrant folk art traditions and celebrates its people’s creativity and ingenuity.

The museum holds an extensive collection of handmade crafts and folk art. This includes textiles, pottery, glassware, wood carvings, and more, providing a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of Mexico. It is a place to admire the beauty and skill of these works and serves as a center for preserving and promoting traditional Mexican arts and crafts. It is a place where visitor can come together to appreciate the unique cultural richness of Mexico. And learn about its history and traditions. 

While I also recommend the Templo Mayor and the Anthropology Museum, the vibrancy of this museum always excites me. These are objects made by everyday people that have lasted generations. And hold within them such deep symbolic value. Even in arts and crafts, you’ll learn all about the Aztec myths and gods the ancient Mexican people worshipped. And see how this history still finds its way into symbolism even today.

#3 Xochimilco

Xochimilco is a neighbourhood in Mexico City home to a system of canals and floating gardens known as the Xochimilco canals. This ancient waterway was once used for agriculture and transportation. But today serves as a popular tourist attraction and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Locals and tourists alike gather near the embarcaderos and rent these gorgeous, brightly coloured Trajineras, or small boats. Thes boats are ferried up and down the river. The atmosphere on the canals, even on a quiet afternoon, is infectious. Laughter and the sound of mariachi bands float across the water.

The canals offer a unique perspective into the way of life in Mexico in the past. These innovative chinampas were created by the Aztecs to grow crops in the middle of a lake. While on your journey, you can buy food and drinks from local street food vendors cooking up a storm in their own floating kitchens. There is also live music and craft merchants all along the river. Although it’s about a 45 minutes journey to get here, it is well worth the effort.

#4 Bosque de Chapultepec

There is no better place to spend a lively weekend with the locals than at the Bosque de Chapultepec or Chapultepec Park. The Bosque de Chapultepec (Chapultepec Forest) is one of the largest city parks in the world. Often referred to as the “lungs of Mexico City.” The park spans over 1,700 acres and is home to a diverse array of flora and fauna.

The Bosque de Chapultepec also has a rich cultural history, as it was once a royal retreat for Aztec emperors. And later served as the official residence of Mexican presidents. The Bosque de Chapultepec symbolizes the city’s past and present. And to me, this place provides a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of Mexico City. It is a place where people can connect with nature, learn about Mexican culture and history, and enjoy various recreational activities.

It’s also home to several museums, including the National Museum of Anthropology, the Museum of Modern Art, and the National History Museum. But I love just coming here and exploring. Take a swan boat out on the lake, eat some street snacks, and watch the locals enjoy their city.

#5 Lucha Libre

Watching Lucha Libre, Mexico’s colourful and dynamic form of professional wrestling is a cultural experience that is not to be missed in Mexico City. Lucha Libre is a deeply ingrained part of Mexican popular culture. And has been a part of the country’s entertainment scene for over 80 years. The high-flying, acrobatic moves, elaborate costumes, and larger-than-life personalities of the luchadors (wrestlers) make for a unique and exciting spectacle. One that you have to see for yourself.

Attending a Lucha Libre match in Mexico City is an opportunity to immerse oneself in Mexican culture’s vibrant and energetic spirit. We were hesitant at first about going. Not knowing if we would understand what was happening, but we were FANS immediately after the show’s start! Joining in on the chants and screaming “boos” at the villains of the match.

I remember after our first match feeling, my face was sore from smiling and singing and screaming. It was a blast; we’ve seen a match every time we’ve been back in the city. It’s part of our tradition, and it should be one of yours too. You can join a tour group if you feel more comfortable going as a group or buy the tickets from the Arena Mexoc website.

#6 Mercado Artesanías Ciudadela

There is nowhere I’m perhaps more excited to go to every time I’m in Mexico City than the Mercado Artesanías Ciudadad. This sprawling arts market is filled with hundreds of stalls selling an array of handmade goods, including textiles, pottery, jewelry, glassware, and more. Each stall reflects Mexico’s diverse cultural heritage, with artisans coming from around the country to sell their wares.

Shopping at the market is not only an opportunity to purchase unique and beautiful handmade goods but also a way to support the local artisans and their families. The prices here are extremely fair, so there is no need to haggle. But often, if you buy more than a few things, the owner will give you a discount. I find just wandering the aisle and filling my eyes with all the incredible creations a rewarding and fulfilling experience.

#7 Casa Azul Frida Kahlo

Casa Azul Frida Kahlo, also known as the Blue House, was the birthplace and lifelong home of the renowned Mexican artist Frida Kahlo. The house sits in one of my favourite Mexico City neighbourhoods, Coyoacan. Today the house has been restored to reflect what it would have looked like when Frida lived in it with her husband, Diego Rivera.

The bright blue house vividly represents Frida’s artistic vision. It is filled with Frida’s personal belongings, including her paintings, collectables and photographs. But most precious are the iconic traditional Mexican dresses that created Frida’s look. and made her a fashion icon.

Visiting Casa Azul is a journey into Frida’s world, providing a glimpse into her art, politics, and personal life. The museum is a cultural treasure that offers a window into Mexico’s past and the history of one of its most famous artists.

#8 San Angel Arts Market

The San Angel Art Market in Mexico City is the best time to make your way out to the San Angel hillside neighbourhood. While San Angel is still one of the most vibrant yet peaceful districts throughout the week in Mexico City, on Saturdays, the art markets set the squares alight. Artisans from all over the city arrive to set up their goods at dawn. Showcasing all different art forms, from paintings to sculptures and handmade items. Best of all, the art market is for more than just tourists. But also for the locals, the pieces feel really reflective of trendy Mexican styles. Furthermore, the market provides a platform for up-and-coming artists to showcase their work and gain exposure.

A market is also a place for the community to gather and engage with the local arts scene. There is often live music performances and demonstrations by artists taking place regularly. Inside the El Bazar Sábado building on the north side of the Plaza San Jacinto you’ll find a lively food court. Here, locals and tourists all come together to eat the day away. A relaxing spot to take a break from exploring the beautiful artworks outside.

#9 Street Food

Mexico City is (in my humble opinion) the best foodie location in the world. From Michelin Star fine dining to unpretentious family-run fondas serving home-style, traditional Mexican cuisine, there is truly something for everyone. But street food is where Mexico City really shines. And street food is an integral part of the city’s culture, reflecting the country’s rich culinary heritage and diverse population. Plus, at the low price points, it’s an accessible option for almost every budget.

There is something so exciting about spotting your favourite tamales vendor coming down the road on his bike, announcing his breakfast items for sale on his portable speaker. Street food in Mexico City is incredibly diverse. From traditional Mexican dishes like tacos al pastor, elote, tortas and huaraches, there is truly something for every diet. Even vegans can find special vegan food stalls around the city. And if you’re too timid to go for a full-on meal, there are always the snack and dessert vendors to dip your toe in the waters for freshly made Mexican Street food! 

#10 Sundays on Paseo de Reforma

The Paseo de la Reforma in Mexico City is more than just a roadway; it is a street filled with history and symbolism. The long, wide avenue was originally built in the 19th century to connect the city center to Chapultepec Park. The Paseo de la Reforma has since evolved into a cultural hub with iconic monuments and fantastical public spaces. But on most days, you miss many of these iconic spots since the road is packed with cars rushing about to get from one end of the city to another. But not on Sundays…

Sundays on the Paseo de Reforma feature car-free streets. The busy thoroughfare is closed to traffic, and the roadway is open only to bikes, scooters, runners and pedestrians. The once loud street, thick with car exhaust, is now filled with children playing and people chatting as they cruise along the path on their bikes. The sidewalks are replete with street food vendors and craftspeople selling their wares. It feels like a giant street party. But luckily, it happens every week, so you can almost always take part in your visit. There are many places to rent a bike or a scooter to make traversing the long roadway a breeze. And make sure to make frequent stopes along the way to take in the monuments and snacks you’ll spot along the way.

There are many more amazing things to see and do in Mexico City, but this is a great list to get you started. I feel like with this list, so many parts of what makes Mexico City such an incredible place to visit are truly highlighted. Perhaps these sights will pique your interest and start you off on the right food while planning your first trip to Mexico City.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post What are the Best Must-see Attractions in Mexico City? first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Honestly any day you’re in town this is a great way to spend an afternoon. But if you’re looking for something chill and fun for your first day this is the Taco Tour for you! La Condesa is a super safe and really relaxing neighbourhood inside bustling Mexico City. This part of town eases you into the history and culture of Mexico City all through food!

About The Taco Stops

All the stops we’ll make along the are established restaurants, so you won’t need to flex any street food savvy just yet. While street food is incredible in Mexico City and something I really recommend everyone try, I realize on your first day you might want to start slow, with more easy-to-find and order at stops. A little bit of Spanish goes a long way as many of these shops don’t have servers that speak English. That being said, since we’re in a touristy area, a few of the restaurants actually have English menus.

DIY Taco Tour La Condesa Map

List of Restaurants:

1. Taquería Orinoco
2. El Pescadito
3. Tacos Don Juan
5. Taquería El Califa
6. Taqueria El Greco
7. Tacos Hola El Güero

Taquería Orinoco

We start our tour in the north of La Condesa, inside Taquería Orinoco. Taquería Orinoco serves up Northern-style tacos. Their menu is tiny, with three types of meat; trompo (al pastor pork), res (beef), and chicharron (fried pork skin). You can order each flavour on a maize (corn) or harina (flour) tortilla. Or even opt for the crispy tostada. In the north, eating a flour tortilla is expected, so if you want to go for the traditional version you’ll order the harina. 

Once you’re seated, either side or outside, they’ll bring you a large platter of their salsas, which are some of my favourites! Get a glass of freshly made agua fresca (I recommend the hibiscus flavour) to wash it all down! Remember, this is just the first stop, so be sure to only order one taco; you can always come back for more.

Address: Avenue Yucatan 3, Hipódromo
Cost: 24-36 pesos/taco

El Pescadito

Take a walk west along with Avenue Álvaro Obregón until you arrive at Parque Espana. This is a beautiful little parkette worth exploring if you’re taking your time along this Taco Tour. Just off the Parque Espana is the famous El Pescadito. El Pescadito is a little chain in Mexico City that specializes in fish tacos! You’ll know you’ve arrived when you see the cheery face of their fish mascot above the sign on the door beckoning you to enter!

The fish on offer here is the smoked marlin which has the most indearing pink colour against the yellow corn tortillas. They also serve up my favourite which are the shrimp (camarón) tacos. You can also get the campechano taco which combines battered fish and shrimp, so you can try both the options! The best of both worlds. One of my favourite aspects of this restaurant is the toppings bar! Here you can get everything from pickled red onions to shredded cabbage, hot sauce and loads of limes! All self-serve so you can really customize your own perfect taco.

Address: Calle Atlixco 38, Colonia Condesa
Cost: 46 pesos/taco

Tacos Don Juan

Directly across the street from El Pescadito is another hot spot in La Condesa; Tacos Don Juan! Hidden under a small, unassuming sign inside an old art deco-inspired building is a family-run joint with a handwritten menu that changes daily. Make sure you place an order for the quesabirria taco. Birria is beef stew, and the tacos are made from this incredibly tender and flavourful meat. The Quesabirria taco is served with a scoop of meat, then covered in cheese and given a quick fry-up on the grill. What you’re left with is this incredible crispy yet still moist taco that is bursting with flavour!

Address: Calle Atlixco 42, Colonia Condesa
Cost: 46 pesos/quesabirria taco

Walk south along Calle Atlixco until you reach Avenue Tamaulipas. From here, it’s only one block east to our next stop; . claims to be where tacos Al Pastor were first invented. However, almost all shops selling tacos Al Pastor seem to make this claim. Nonetheless, this is one of my favourite places to try out the famous taco.

Tacos Al Pastor was more than likely invented in Puebla in 1930. It was made by a Lebanese immigrant family who introduced the concept of shawarma and roasting meat upright on a spit to the Mexican people. The distinct red colour of the meat is made from marinating the meat in achiote paste. This popular marinade is made from annatto seeds, pepper, cumin, coriander, oregano, garlic and cloves. Once the meat is cooked, it’s shaved off the spit giving it the most intoxicating slightly burnt, crispy flavour. The tacos are served with a fresh slice of pineapple, onion, and cilantro. The meat here is super fresh, and I love how they top it off with their tasty salsas.

Address: Avenue Tamaulipas 122, Colonia Condesa, 
Cost: 27 pesos/taco

Taquería El Califa

At the edge of La Condesa sits a huge taco instituion Taquería El Califa. This is one of the big “grill joints” in town where you can get a ton of different types of tacos. The restaurant is as big as its menu with two floors of seating. Although there are lots of different options, for me, this is where to come to get beef tacos. The bistec (marinated flat iron beef) and costilla (beef rib) are very thin slices of beef, quickly grilled up and placed onto a taco. You can dress it up at the table with their various toppings to your preference. I would be sure some onions and avocado, as the pairing is absolutely perfect.

Address: Altata 22, Hipódromo, Cuauhtémoc
Cost: 30 pesos/taco

Taqueria El Greco

Head diagonally west across Avenue Nuevo León towards the intersection of Avenue Michoacán. Here you’ll find Taqueria El Greco which is home to the original Arabian bread tacos. Their Doneraky tacos are made in an Arab style using a pita instead of a tortilla. Another gift from the Lebanese immigrants who came to Mexico City in the 30s. They would change the taco game forever by introducing these new takes on the classic taco. The roasted meat is so tender and fresh and the softness of the fluffy pita absorbs all the fatty drippings making it such a delight to eat! Get it along with cheese and avocado for an absolute taste sensation!

Address: Av Michoacán 54-Local B – 91 And 92, Hipódromo,
Cost: 76 pesos/taco with cheese and avocado

Tacos Hola El Güero

The infamous Hola Tacos is just a block down from El Greco, around the corner on Amsterdam Avenue. This taco shop specializes in Guisado tacos. Guisado means “stew” in Spanish. Various ingredients are marinaded for hours and hours, making them super juicy, flavourful and tender. But you can get much more than just meat there. If they still have any of the nopales (cactus pads) available when you arrive (which they might not as this sells out quickly), I would highly advise trying them out. Nopales are a popular filling and topping on tacos. But I find the stew they make here with them adds so much flavour to the nopales than when they are only grilled. The stewed Poblanas peppers with cream is also one of my favourites!

Address: Amsterdam 135, Hipódromo, Cuauhtémoc
Cost: 23 pesos/taco

We end our tour here on Amsterdam Avenue, across from Parque Mexico. This is the perfect place to take a rest after all those tacos. Take a seat under the pergola around the Teatro Lindbergh or inside the peaceful Audiorama. As you digest, think about your favourite taco of the day and let me know in the comments if you managed to finish the tour! Or if you had to come back for more

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate DIY Taco Tour of La Condesa, Mexico City; a Foodie’s Dream! first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

The Museo Casa Estudio has been remarkably preserved and restored. It is open for visitors to come inside and explore, a chance to step into the intimate spaces where Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo painted, entertained and simply existed together, as apart. Come with us as we explore the entirety of the Museo Casa Estudio and learn more about the artists who lived here and the man who built this revolutionary property!

Guide to the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo

1. Location & Access
2. Admission & Hours
3. About Diego Rivera
4. About Frida Kahlo
5. Juan O'Gorman
6. Modernist Architecture
   • Functionalism
7. Designing the Casa Estudio
   • Life inside the Casa Estudio
   • Studio as Museum
8. Exterior Foyer
   • The Bathrooms
9. Diego's House
   • 2nd Floor Bedroom
10. Diego's Studio
    • Mezzanine
    • Rooftop
    • The Bridge of Diego and Frida's Love
11. Frida's Studio
    • What the Water Gave Me
12. The O'Gorman Guest House
    • Dining Room Mural

Location & Access

The Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo is located in the neighbourhood of San Angel, in the far south of the city centre. To access the museum, you can take an Uber or taxi directly into the district’s centre. The Uber fare costs about $7 USD and takes about 20-30 minutes (depending on traffic) from the centre of Mexico City. If you’d prefer to take public transit, you can hop on the metro towards Miguel Angel de Quevedo Station. From here, you’ll have to change to one of the city’s metro buses that will take you directly into the Altavista suburbs where the museum is located.

Admission & Hours

The museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday, 11 am to 5 pm. The price of admission is $40 pesos for adults, but children under 13 and seniors are free. Admission is free for everyone on Sundays.

About Diego Rivera

Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo are perhaps two of the most well-known artists to come out of Mexico. It is perhaps no coincidence that the two geniuses would find themselves caught in a passionate web of love, art and fiery drama. Diego Rivera was born in 1886 in Guanajuato City, Mexico. When he was born, he came out of the womb along with his twin brother. Sadly, his brother Carlos died two years after they were born. Twins have this unspoken, deep, almost soulful connection with each other and this loss so early in Diego’s life perhaps touched the young boy with trauma and pain that it seems many infamous artists carry with them. Diego started to draw at only three, just after his brother died. Perhaps as a means to express his grief.

Mexican Muralism

His talents only grew from then, and at the age of ten, he went to study art at the San Carlos Academy of Fine Arts in Mexico City. Rivera travelled to Europe after flourishing at the school in Mexico City. It was there he would refine his unique style of painting under the influence of modern artists like Pablo Picasso and looked to the works of Paul Gauguin and Henri Matisse for inspiration. Rivera returned to Mexico City in 1922 as he had been commissioned by the government to head up their new muralism program. The project was created to promote aimed to National pride through murals that told the history of Mexico that even the working class, illiterate masses could interpret.

About Frida Kahlo

While Diego was painting murals all over Mexico City, Frida Kahlo was just a young girl with her own struggles. Frida was born in 1907 in Coyoacan, a small neighbourhood just outside the centre of Mexico City. Similar to Rivera, Frida had her own ordeals early on in life. She was afflicted with polio at only six years old. This meant that her right leg would always be shorter and thinner than the left, a disability that would affect her for the rest of her life.

But Frida never let this illness defeat her spirit despite being kept isolated at home at such a young age. She looked up to her artistic father, who was a famous photographer, and it was him that inspired her to start painting. While at home, her father taught her things she would never learn so early in school, everything from philosophy, literature and, of course, art and photography. When she went back to school, she flourished, as learning was something that truly excited her.

The Bus Accident

But just as her life was taking off once more, she was hit, literally, by another setback. On her way back from school on the day, in the centre of Mexico City, just a few blocks from where Rivera was painting, the bus she was riding on was hit by a streetcar. A large iron handrail pierced her pelvis, broke her spine in three places and crushed her right leg, as well as a litany of other injuries. She stayed in the hospital for months and had to be put into a plaster corset to aid her spine and chest bones in healing. This meant months of bedrest with nothing to do. Nothing to do but paint. Once more, her father encouraged her to turn her pain into art. Despite these life-altering incidents, she responded with the same vigour for the life she refused to lose despite these accidents.

Frida and Diego’s Marriage

After recovering, Frida discovered the thing she wanted to do for the rest of her life, and that was to paint. She was insistent on becoming the best painter she could be, so she sought out the advice of the greatest Mexican painter she knew, Diego Rivera. Rivera was immediately taken aback by this energetic and bold girl and her obvious talent. Despite being married already (to two different women), Frida and Diego started a relationship. They would be married in 1929 at a wedding her parents entitled “the marriage between an elephant and a dove.“

The couple were immediately taken out of Mexico City and moved to the United States. Rivera had to paint several commissions in San Francisco, Detroit, and New York for the famous Rockefellers. But they knew they would return home to Mexico City and wanted a beautiful hacienda to come back to. This is where their friend, architect and artist Juan O’Gorman would come in!

Juan O’Gorman

O’Gorman had been studying functionalism, inspired by the Swiss designer Charles-Édouard Jeanneret, known as Le Corbusier. O’Gorman was enthusiastic about bringing this modernist style to his home in Mexico City. He saw Mexico City as being a hub for modern thinking and exquisite architecture. The old Hacienda Goicoechea, now the famous San Angel Inn, had sold off the large expanse of their land to become residential housing. O’Gorman loved the neighbourhood and purchased the land currently being used as the tennis courts of the nearby hotel. 

Modernist Architecture

O’Gorman had plans to turn these two plots into the first modernist home in Mexico City. But when he displayed his plan it was very controversial. Most homes here are super traditional, fitting into that 18th century colonial style, and this new modernist vision wasn’t an appealing sight to the neighbours. But despite them turning their noses up at this new technique, O’Gorman solidered on. He built one home as a proof of concept. This home still stands today as the Museo Casa Estudio’s guest house.

Functionalism

Functionalism was a style defined by buildings that were designed around their purpose and function and revolted against excess decoration that didn’t serve a objective. In many European functionalist buildings, glass, steel and concrete were essential elements in their construction. In Mexico, in addition to these materials, O’Gorman wanted to incorporate clay and natural plants into the buildings. Instead of building fences out of wood or wrought iron, he planted rows of tall cacti along the roadside. These elements were native to the environment and followed the functionalist ethos. He would use other plants to create borders that looked almost like they had naturally grown up around the house.

Another element significant in functionalism is using practical elements as expressive decoration. A great example of this is the exposed helicoidal staircases that swirl up the sides of the houses. The stairs are a means of access and yet bring an interesting spacial element to the house’s exterior. Water tanks and drainage pipes also provide dynamic structural details around the house. These were all painted a contrasting orange colour and created this framing effect. Instead of looking too industrial, they manage to have their own architectural charm. But they are, in fact, used for rainwater drainage so are not just ornamental.

Diego’s house features a saw-tooth roof design. This design, while it might look decorative, is actually used to allow natural light into the interior while blocking out the heat of direct sun exposure. This was a technique popular inside industrial factories as early as the 16th century, before electiral lighting could be used to illuminate the interiors. It remains today as one of the most ingenious techniques to bring natural light into the interiors.

Designing the Casa Estudio

When Diego and Frida saw what O’Gorman had created, they quickly decided to purchase the entire property and commissioned him to build them twin buildings. Each one would act as both a residence and a studio, unique to each artist. The two buildings were designed as a pair but also as two oppositional designs. Tied together through the consistent elements of functionalism and a bridge that brought the building together at the top.

Diego’s studio is painted off-white and rust-red. Simple, natural colours. On the other hand, Frida’s studio is painted the same ethereal cobalt blue as her Casa Azul. Both studios feature floor-to-ceiling windows, giving the interior spaces an indoor/outdoor feeling. But are protected from the elements, meaning you can paint inside while feeling like you’re out en plein air. The ideal of these twin structures is eerily similar to Diego and his brother Carlos. Connected together despite the fates of their lives going in two very different directions.

Life inside the Casa Estudio

Construction on the houses ended in 1932, and the couple moved in 1934. Diego and Frida lived here from 1934 to 1939. In 1939, they divorced, and Frida moved home to Casa Azul. Diego kept the house and continued living and painting here during their separation. After their divorce, the couple actually got back together, only 9-months later. But even after this reconciliation, Frida preferred to remain in the Casa Azul.

After Frida’s passing in 1954, Diego would continue to live in the studio house full time. He treasured his time in his home until his death on November 24, 1957. Rivera died in his studio, and his body remained there as friends and family came to sit vigil inside to mourn the loss. After this, his body was moved to the Palacio de Bellas Artes for his grand state funeral. 

Studio as Museum

After his death, Diego’s daughters inherited the houses. When they moved in, their went about drastically changing some of the most iconic aspects of the house and making many ugly additions. They removed the cacti and installed a stone fence. They also demolished the bridge that connected the buildings, one of the most important aspects of the house. Years later, the houses were gifted to the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes to be enjoyed by the public. Restoration began in 1995 to bring back the original nature of the homes and preserve their architectural value. All the additions and fencing were removed, and the house seemed to breathe a sigh of relief.

Exterior Foyer

One of the most wonderful things about functionalist-style houses is that they sit on stilts. These stilts are called pilotis, slender columns that support an upper level. When you walk into the property, the entire exterior courtyard feels like an open-air foyer. But with wonderful shaded areas under those upper levels to escape the sun’s heat (essential in Mexico City!) This open air foyer really exposes the incredible landscape architecture that O’Gorman created around the property. It feels like a gorgeous garden floating below.

Another enchanting thing to study while walking around the exterior are the exposed staircases. The spiral staircase which curls its way up the side of Diego’s studio is a wonderful geometric cement column contrasted against the solid red walls. The stairs almost have this musical-like curvature that flows out of the house.

The only exterior staircase in Frida’s house leads from the second-floor studio up to the rooftop. She would use this pathway to cross the thin bridge which connected to Diego’s house. Especially considering her frail condition and problems with her legs, it’s impressive she would brave such a dangerous-looking crossing. Especially when it originally was designed without any handrails!

The Bathrooms

Standing in the coutyard, you’ll see a smaller blue building, set behind Frida’s house. It looks almost like a minature version of her studio. Today, this tiny structure houses the public washrooms that visitors can use during their stay. Although you might think this was an addition when the museum was built, this building is original! It was designed by O’Gorman as a photography studio meant for Frida’s father. Even now, just as then, nothing is wasted. Functionalism reigns eternal.

Diego’s House

You enter Diego’s House first, via the exterior spiral staircase. The large, mostly empty room you enter on the first floor was used initially for Diego to display the artworks he had up for sale. His personal art gallery. Today, the space houses just a few remaining pieces from Diego’s collections of Pre-Columbian artifacts. Today the majority of his collections are housed in the Museo Anahuacalli.

During their marriage, the Museo Anahuacalli was a pipe dream of both Rivera and Kahlo. They both adored collecting these precious pieces of Mexican history and wanted to share them with the public. Rivera had started construction on this project just before his death. But it was O’Gorman who would see it through as the chief architect in charge of achieveing Rivera’s vision. Much of Rivera’s muralism was influenced by these pre-Columbian figurines. In Rivera’s art we can see the intense facial expressions and powerful geometric shapes reflected in these figurines.

2nd Floor Bedroom

Head back up the stairs, either using the smaller interior staircase or the outer curved stairs. The second level is where we find the painter’s studio and bedroom. The little room you’ll see upon entering is Rivera’s tiny bedroom. In functionalist buildings proportions of bedrooms were much smaller than we would expect. This was because they were seen as rooms only used for sleep and therefore didn’t require a great use of space. This preserved more capacity in areas like the studio which was where the artist spent most of his time.

Plus, the painter wasn’t a fan of sleeping unless it was with women. The room is designed to have only a tiny row of windows along the ceiling. This allowed only a small amount of light to flow inside. This meant the artist could get some sleep no matter what time of day.

The room is still laid out like it’s awaiting the return of it’s owner. Diego’s shoes are sitting on the floor as if he is about to get out of bed. Besides this, there are also his bedpans left here since his death. Atop the bedframe is Diego’s suitcase, as he was a world traveller. On the bedside table, you can also see a collection of his keychains and wallets. All the while the room is watched over by a series of papier-mache figures.

Diego’s Studio

Stepping from the hallway, make your way into the great studio. Immediately you’ll be overcome by the light that pours into theroom from the double-height windows on the north wall. From inside you can also study the effect of the saw-tooth roof windows that fill even the ceiling with light. Diego’s studio is bursting with natural energy. The trees on the other side of the windows almost look like they’re growing inside the house. The separation from indoors to outdoor is only a thin veil in here.

The studio still contains the original brushes and pigments which Rivera used to make his murals. They sit beside his easel like he is about to walk back into the room mid-painting. The painting on the easel is a portrait of Dolores Del Rio, a famous Mexican actress. Diego once said of Del Rio;

The most beautiful, the most gorgeous of the west, east, north and south. I’m in love with her as 40 million Mexicans and 120 million Americans who can’t be wrong.

Diego Rivera

Books, artisan ceramics and pottery, and little curios line the green painted shelves at the back of the room. Glass jars are silhouetted against the window panes. Inside powdered pigment still sit, waiting to be turned into paints. Diego’s studio really feels like a highly intimate space. Each one of the objects was bought by Diego as they caught his eye or gifted to him by a friend and lovingly put on display to be treasured. One of the most interesting decor found on the shelves is a copy of Diego Rivera’s death mask. Allowing him to still watche over all those and anyone who enters.

Judases

Filling the corners of the studio are these huge papier-mâché figures. Images of devils, skeletons and expressive people lean against the walls like inanimate puppets. These are called “Judases” and are popular formed of Mexican folk art. They were originally created as a part of the celebrations before Easter. The figures were made to look like the image of Judas, the Traitor. They would then take this resemblance of the great betrayer and set him on fire, to rid the world of his evil spirit. As years passed and the tradition became more popular, the figures began to take the forms of other, also unfavourable people or things. This could be anything from images of devils, demons, politicians, criminals and, in some cases, even disliked shopkeepers. Today the papier-mache dolls are stuffed with fireworks and blown up on the street. Much to the enjoyment of the onlookers.

But Rivera didn’t blow them up. Instead, he kept them as souvenirs of the local artisans. Although the simple craftsmen who made them might not have seen them as high art, Diego saw these as treasures to keep forever. Their highly expressive faces now look out over visitors from all studio corners.

Mezzanine

Walking back up the stairs, you enter the small mezzanine that looks over the studio. A small table between the two chairs is set in the corner, the perfect place to relax and watch the great painter at work. On the table is a portrait of Diego’s beloved, Frida. One can imagine this would have been where Frida herself would have stood to look down on her husband after coming over from her side of the house. Sometimes finding him hard at work…and other times, and sadly so, in the throes of passion with another woman, much to her dismay. In fact, it may have been right here that Frida discovered Diego cheating on her with her younger sister Cristina. There is no doubt that this house was a place of intensity from all angles.

The mezzanine is also home to Rivera’s office, just in the corner, beside the door to the rooftop. His green leather desk features a old phone, a typewriter and more pre-Colombian art covering the walls.

Rooftop

From the small office, you step out onto the rooftop, the neighbourhood of San Angel opening up all around you. During the Springtime, the purple flowers of the Jacaranda trees light up the skyline.

The Bridge of Diego and Frida’s Love

Although Frida and Diego had a passionate relationship, this firey love also resulted in both positive and negative intensity. When things were good, they were great, but when it was bad, it was very, very bad. So for both their sakes, having a separate working space where one could get away from the other was imperative. But the two buildings are connected by a large bridge on the top. O’Gorman named the bridge “the bridge of Diego and Frida’s love.” A symbol that, at the end of the day, they still found a way to come together and connect. Even when things were dire.

A narrow bridge connects the two buildings, the red-painted railings all you have to hold onto as you cross over. While Frida’s staircase has been closed down, too dangerous for the public to continually cross, you can imagine how the two lovers must have met up here to look out over the city and take in the night air. Even today the rest of the buildings in the area remain at a lower level to the rooftop of the Museo Casa Estudio, making you feel like you have this private oasis all to yourself.

Frida’s Studio

To get into Frida’s studio, you need to walk back down to the courtyard and enter on the ground level. Sadly, there is not much to see inside Frida’s house. Much of what once existed here has been moved to the Frida Kahlo museum in the Casa Azul. If you’re interested in learning more about the life and art of Frida Kahlo, you should definitely check it out, just over in Coyoacan. But there is one reason to go into the house: see the bathroom on the second floor. Sounds odd but stay with me!

What the Water Gave Me

This is where Frida lay when she was inspired to paint “What the Water Gave Me” in 1938. Like toys in a child’s bathtub, Frida painted the images that swam in her mind on top of the water. Memories of her life float around her; the only slice of reality is the cast iron bathtub framing the scene and her little toes sticking out of the water. The bathtub which inspired this scene can still be found in the house. If you’re a bather like me, you’ll know sitting in the bath really is where the imagination comes alive. It’s the best place to sit and think. Shower people will disagree with me I’m sure, but for me, a bath is a perfect way to relax and reflect. And it seems like Frida agrees.

The O’Gorman Guest House

The third large building on the property, located slightly below the other two homes, was the couple’s guest house. It was here that family and friends could stay in their own private apartments. But when the house was being built, it was used almost as a test for O’Gorman’s vision. To separate this house from the main studios, you’ll see another line of cacti fencing and steps leading down, surrounded by lush agave plants.

Construction on his house started in 1929, two years before the dual studio. The most impressive part of the building is the study on the first floor. Three of the four walls inside this part of the house are covered in floor-to-ceiling glass panels. And in fact, the entire glass wall opens up like a giant window. It’s pretty dangerous by today’s standards, as you can just walk right off, but what an impact it makes! The windows open up the space, and it feels like you’re floating in the air. The panels of glass are slightly more opaque on the lower four panels to give some privacy to the interior while still filling it with light.

The exterior ground level connects to the study via a wide-sweeping spiral staircase. Once more, without handrails. Looks gorgeous but can’t be very practical. A more private (and safe for visitors) internal staircase takes guests inside the private spaces which contain a small bedroom, bathroom, dining room and kitchen.

Dining Room Mural

One of the other exciting things to study here in the house is the remnants of the dining room mural that was once painted onto the walls. The mural was called “There is quite a difference between philosophy and science,” painted by O’Gorman. It depicts a stunning and vibrant Mexican landscape dotted with images of science and industry. On the left of the frame, there is an image of a fragile skeleton. This is juxtaposed with a beautiful naked Mexican woman who sits opposite. She sets aside a cup bursting with gorgous fresh fruits. The message is that one must have progress to flourish and grow. Otherwise, you will wither and die, like the old skeleton.

The fresco was only discovered in 2012 when a restoration team found traces of the original mural. When the house was sold off after Diego’s death, the mural was removed from the wall, purchased by the Banco Nacional de México for its private collection. Today you can see a photograph of the real painting beside the sketches found on the house’s walls. While I’m sure it’s well preserved in the bank’s museum, it would be more impressive to see it in situ here in the dining room. Maybe one day!

Thank you for joining us on this self-guided tour of the Museo Casa Estudio of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The Museo Casa Estudio is a wonderfully immersive space to explore, and I hope this guide helped you learn more about all the secrets hidden in plain sight. Let me know in the comments what your favourite discovery was!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Everything you Need to Know About the Incredible Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Just as people flock to Japan and Washington D.C. during Cherry Blossom season, Mexico City’s Jacaranda trees are a huge draw for locals and tourists. And yet, to my surprise, tourists here haven’t completely taken over and ruined the views. Like is sometimes in the case for Cherry Blossoms. You can still find so many stunning locations in Mexico City painted with these brilliant blossoms that aren’t packed with tourists. To have a picnic under the trees you don’t have to feel like you’re fighting through the crowds. The Jacaranda trees of Mexico City are still one of the most underestimated Springtime sights around the world. And something you need to see on your next trip to Mexico City. While the Jacaranda trees in Mexico City are spread out all over I’ve listed below my favourite spots to visit to see these spectacular saplings.

Table Of Contents

1. The History of the Jacaranda Trees
2. When To See Them
3. Best Jacaranda Trees in Mexico City
   • Bosque de Chapultepec / Chapultepec Castle
   • Paseo de la Reforma
   • Sofitel Hotel Cityzen Bar
   • Plaza de la República
   • Alameda Central
   • Cafe don Porfirio
   • Alameda de Santa María
   • Avenida Cicerón
   • Avenida Horacio
   • Lope de Vega
   • Soumaya Museum
   • Fuente de Cibeles
   • Casa Jacaranda
   • Parque México
   • Avenida Veracruz
   • UNAM
   • Avenida Francisco Sosa
   • Panteón de Dolores

The History of the Jacaranda Trees

While you might think these iconic trees are native to Mexico, the trees were actually brought in from Brazil. The story of how the Jacaranda trees in Mexico City arrived here is a fascinating tale. In 1896, Japanese immigrant Tatsugoro Matsumoto was sent to Mexico City to work for President Porfirio Díaz. Matsumoto had come to Mexico City to forge a friendship between Japan and Mexico. He had previously worked in Peru for their government and there, he had made a name for himself. Díaz was looking for a landscape architect to jazz up the forests around his residence inside Chapultapec Castle.

Matsumoto and the Jacarandas

The most obvious choice for a tree that symbolized friendship between Japan and Mexico would have been the sakura or cherry blossom tree. But the high altitude and weather in Mexico City didn’t suit the sensitive blossom. So instead, Matsumoto came up with the idea of importing the Jacaranda tree from Brazil. It had the same effect as the cherry blossom, with a springtime bloom that washed the city in bright colours. Seemingly changing the landscape of the city during those precious few springtime months. President Porfirio Díaz was so impressed by the trees he asked they be planted all over the city!

Matsumoto began working on transforming the city in 1920. He started on the main avenues that spread out from Chapultapec Castle. You can still see the oldest, original Jacaranda trees Matsumoto planted along the Paseo de la Reforma. During his time working on the Jacaranda trees in Mexico City, Matsumoto fell in love with the city. He found the colonial architecture where he lived in the Roma neighbourhood absolutely entrancing. When he went back to Japan after his contract was over it wasn’t to return home. It was to collect his wife and bring her to Mexico City where they would live out the rest of their lives. Matsumoto died in Mexico City, in 1955 at the age of 95.

But the trees live on in his memory, their yearly blossoming a welcome sign of the end of winter. In Japan, they call celebrations under the cherry blossom trees hanami (‘flower watching’ parties.) The same kind of celebrations occurs in Mexico City when the jacaranda blooms. A true symbol of the lasting connections between Japan, Mexico City and, of course, the great landscape architect Matsumoto.

When To See Them

Jacaranda trees are in full bloom from mid-March to April. And they’re at their best in the latter part of that period. During this time, the trees burst into life, and their purple flowers provide a lovely contrast against the crowded, urban cityscape. My favourite time of year is when the blooms start to fall and caress the ground. There is something so magical about sitting in a park and watching the blossoms fall like drops of rain. Despite all the street sweepers, there is almost always a carpet of blossoms everywhere you go underneath the trees. Some people call this the “Mexican winter.” It’s a time where the city sheds its old skin, getting ready for new growth.

Many of the city’s most popular areas where you’ll find the Jacaranda trees get very busy. Especially in the afternoon. Plan to arrive early in the morning to get the best chance at having a peaceful walk through the trees.

It is no secret that spring is a popular time of the year to visit Mexico City. Be sure to book hotels in advance! This will ensure you don’t miss out on staying somewhere you had your heart set on. Check out our blog post all about the best neighbourhoods to stay in Mexico City! The Easter holidays are one of the busiest times of the year. Easter is a holy holiday for the Mexican people. Plan accordingly or try to avoid Easter weekend to miss the large crowds.

Best Jacaranda Trees in Mexico City

Bosque de Chapultepec / Chapultepec Castle

The best place to start your tour of the Jacaranda Trees in Mexico City is where the first tree was planted; Chapultepec Castle. Here you can see the original jacaranda trees planted for President Díaz Ordaz. As you walk up the winding road towards the castle, Jacaranda trees pop up as you begin to near the entrance. Standing on the balcony of the castle you can look out over the park to see all the blooming trees below.

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If you don’t want to pay to visit the Castle itself, located at the top of the hill, you can wander the immense Bosque de Chapultepec or Chapultapec Forest that surrounds the castle. The forest is spread out over 1,600 acres, and you can spot different formations of beautiful trees throughout. One of my favourite things to do is take a boat out on Chapultepec Lake, where you can see the purple Jacaranda trees wrapping around the lake like a colourful hug.

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The largest confluence of the trees can be found in the western part of the park called the Lago de Chapultepec 2a Seccion. This part of the forest is enormous and very spread out. Luckily you can hop on a rental bike or scooter to make your way around quickly and efficiently. I would highly recommend this because it’s so much fun and allows you to explore the entirety of this enormous green space.

Paseo de la Reforma

The most famous place to see the Jacaranda trees in full bloom is along Paseo de la Reforma. This is truly one of the most beautiful boulevards in the world during the springtime. The Jacaranda trees line either side of the broad avenue, creating a cascade of purple all down the road.

Take advantage of their vehicle-free Sundays when all cars are barred from the roads and pedestrians and cyclists take over the streets! You can peacefully walk along the avenues, rent a bike and take in the sights. All the while enjoying all the fantastic street vendors and artisans that pop up along the street.

Sofitel Hotel Cityzen Bar

The luxurious Cityzen Bar, found on the top of the Sofitel Hotel, is a fantastic spot to sit and enjoy a view of the city from above. During the springtime, when the purple jacaranda trees colour the streets, there is no better to enjoy a cocktail complete with a view! Cityzen Bar looks out over the iconic Angel of Independence statue always encircled by blooming jacaranda trees. Although the restaurant bar is relatively expensive, (cocktails costing about $13-$15) the view is priceless!

The restaurant is open from Monday to Friday from 1:00 pm to 1:00 am and also on Saturdays and Sundays from 10:00 am to 12:00 am. Reservations are available only for breakfasts, on Saturdays and Sundays. I would highly recommend getting a brunch reservation to see these trees in the daylight!

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Plaza de la República

Just west of the Paseo de la Reforma is the grandiose Plaza de la República. The beautiful arched Monument to the Revolution towers over the plaza. The eyes of the statues surrounding the dome look over at the blooming jacarandas. The monument also functions as a mausoleum for the heroes of the Mexican Revolution of 1910. Several Jacaranda trees were planted in the surrounding garden quadrants. Each one springing to life with vibrant petals come the middle of March.

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Alameda Central

Alameda Central is one of the most famous parks in Mexico City and probably the most popular Jacaranda viewing spot. It has been a gathering place for locals for hundreds of years. The park was built in 1592 under the order of Viceroy Luis de Velasco II. It is now considered the oldest public park in the Americas. But long before it was a public city park, the area was an essential site for the Aztec community. It was here where they held their enormous marketplace long before Spanish colonization. Visiting this place is truly like stepping on the cobblestones of Aztec Mexico City.

Alameda is from the Spanish word “álamo,” which means “grove of poplars.” Sadly, the poplar trees that were once spread out through the park do not remain today. Today, the trees have been replaced by ash, chestnut and willow trees. But in addition to those trees, the park is also home to dozens of Jacaranda trees. They pop their heads out over the top of the various pathways around the park. And most impressively, the tree surrounding the Palacio de Bellas Artes and Parisian metro sign make for fantastic photo ops.

Cafe don Porfirio

Across the street from Alameda Central is the Sears Centro Historico building. Take the elevator up the eighth floor to visit the stunning Cafe don Porfirio. The cafe has a prime location looking out over the city below. It is the best place to view the Palacio de Bellas Artes. During jacaranda season, you can really see how impressive the trees are from above. The drinks in the cafe are exceptionally well priced. But be sure to arrive early as there isn’t a lot of seating on the popular rooftop deck.

Alameda de Santa María

In the Cuauhtémoc borough, to the north of the historic centre, is the Colonia Santa María la Ribera. This area is one of twenty neighbourhoods in Mexico City designated as “Barrios Mágicos” or “magical neighbourhoods.” The central meeting point for locals and tourists is the Alameda de Santa María la Ribera. In the centre of this bustling park is the famous Morisco Kiosk. The Morisco Kiosk was built by José Ramón Ibarrola for the Mexico Pavilion at the 1884 World’s Fair. Located in New Orleans, after the fair was over, the Kiosk was brought back to Mexico City in 1903. It was placed here in the park to attract more residents to the neighbourhood. Surrounding the brightly coloured Pavillion are dozens of Jacaranda trees. The trees really pop against the Kiosk’s red paint and surrounding green parkland.

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Avenida Cicerón

Polanco is one of the most exclusive and luxurious neighbourhoods in Mexico City. Polanco is often called the “Beverly Hills of Mexico” as it’s known for its pristine streets lined with high-end brands. Avenida Cicerón is located in the north-western part of town. Walk along this peaceful, primarily residential avenue to observe the beautiful purple trees.

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Avenida Horacio

Avenida Horacio, particularly the areas around Americas Park, is another spot to find a confluence of Jacaranda trees. The quaint and calming forest that pops up in the middle of the busy street is one of the best places to sit and enjoy a sweet treat. All the while shaded under the floral canopy.

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Lope de Vega

Head towards the small side street of Lope de Vega, between Avenida Homero andAvenida Ejército Nacional Mexicano. Here the Jacaranda trees are so giant they touch each other as they grow over the streets. Creating one of the lushest congregations of the trees anywhere in the city. The road is named after the Spanish writer Lope de Vega. Vega was one of the most prolific authors in the history of Spanish literature.

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Soumaya Museum

The Soumaya Museum is one of the most iconic contemporary pieces of architecture in Mexico City. The building was designed by the Mexican architect Fernando Romero and is covered by 16,000 hexagonal aluminum tiles. Several large Jacaranda trees have been planted outside the building. Their colours reflecting onto the hundreds of mirrored tiles, creating one of the most spectacular views in the city.

Fuente de Cibeles

As you descend from Paseo de la Reforms into Roma Norte, you’ll pass by the Fuente de Cibeles. The Fuente de Cibeles or Fountain of Cybele is a replica of a famous fountain originally sculptured in Madrid, Spain. The fountain was created in 1980 to symbolize and honour the brotherhood between the Spanish and Mexican communities. Even today, it is one of the most beloved sights in the city. The roundabout is surrounded by Jacaranda trees. You’ll notice more of the vibrant blossoms running down each side street that veers off from the central circle. Follow your instincts to discover even more stunning scenes.

Casa Jacaranda

Named after the colossal Jacaranda trees planted outside his family home, Casa Jacaranda is one of the most beautiful slices of Colonial architecture in Mexico City. Chefs Beto and Jorge have lived here for the past few decades. They have both transformed and preserved the history of the house and the incredible Jacaranda trees that decorate their street. If you’re interested in learning more about Mexican food, you need to book yourself a cooking class at Casa Jacaranda. But their classes are more than just a cooking lesson. It’s an entire day-long experience filled with information on Mexican food history, market tours and intimate stories from Beto himself. By the end of the day, dining under the Jacaranda trees, you’ll feel like you have made new friends.

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Parque México

My favourite spot in the entire city is Parque México. There is something so enchanting about this park, nestled away inside the heart of La Condesa. Surrounding the park is the quintessential Avenue Mexico. This large ring road features some of the most prolific Art Deco architecture found anywhere in the city.

The park itself feels like a secret garden, with beautiful sculptures, monuments and fascinating landscaping around every corner. During the spring, the outer edges of the park, lined in Jacaranda trees, explode into a ring of colourful blossoms. As the season progresses, the petals fall down onto the street and cover the roads like a purple blanket.

It is most definitely one of the most densely packed areas to find Jacaranda trees anywhere in the city. Plus, the peaceful atmosphere of the park makes it the ideal place for a picnic. There are dozens of fantastic takeaway shops around the park, my favourite being El Moro Churreria. Or just grab a cup of fruit or hot elote (corn) from a street vendor. The perfect way to enjoy a tranquil afternoon under the trees.

Avenida Veracruz

Just up the street from the Parque México, standing on the edge of Parque España, is the Avenida Veracruz. Avenida Veracruz is perhaps the most famous side street for seeing the Jacaranda trees. The density of trees means the street almost vibrates with colour. Look on google satellite street view and you can actually see the trees from high above. I love walking along this avenue to spot the incredible art deco architecture. And there are dozens of old manors and mansions featuring some of the best examples of antique Talavera tiles. But when the Jacaranda bloom they are the star of the show. And all the beautiful houses fade in the background against the beauty of these out-of-this-world blossoms.

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UNAM

If you’re a fan of incredible architecture and unique gardens, it’s worth the trip to UNAM (National Autonomous University of Mexico). The university is surrounded by an impressive spread of green spaces and Mesoamerican-inspired building designs. The streets and pathways are lined with blossoming jacarandas in the springtime. But as they are spread out across the vast campus, it is a bit of a scavenger hunt to find them all.

To find a sure-fire spot, head over to the UNAM Botanical Gardens. Here, you’ll find a cluster of Jacaranda trees outside the entrance. The UNAM Botanical Gardens are an incredible way to learn more about the flora and fauna which make Mexico City so unique! So it’s worth a visit all on its own.

Avenida Francisco Sosa

In the south end of Coyoacan, make your way to the Avenida Francisco Sosa. Coyoacan has quickly become my favourite neighbourhood in Mexico City. Although it is found outside of the main city centre, the peaceful pace of life and gorgeous colourful architecture is why I keep coming back. And one of the most exciting streets to wander along is the Avenida Francisco Sosa. Cobblestones still make up the material underfoot as you walk along. The street seems left untouched by the modernity of the ages. Above your head, Jacaranda trees lean in towards you from either side of the street. Creating a canopy of shade above you.

Panteón de Dolores

Tucked away in the west corner of the city is the Panteón de Dolores. ‘Panteón’ is another word for the cemetery. But this one was first created for the illustrious dead of Mexico City. The entombed residents have all contributed to Mexico’s civic, national, and human values.

The gravestones and tombs found here are also some of the most beautifully designed memorials and monuments. I think that the Panteón de Dolores is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world. And it doesn’t get it’s fair due compared to places like Père Lachaise Cemetery or Highgate in London. But during the springtime, the Jacaranda trees interspersed between the graves make their debut. Their pale purple blossoms gently fall onto the stones below, bringing an added level of beauty and serenity to the sacred space.

Those are all my favourite spots in Mexico City that I visit during the Jacaranda season. There are hundreds of trees found all over the city, so you’re bound to stumble upon your own secret spot. These hidden gems are almost always the most amazing. But this is a good starting list to see the Jacaranda Trees in Mexico City! Let me know in the comments if you have Jacaranda trees in your city.

Happy Travels, Adventurers.

The post The Ultimate Guide to Seeing the Jacaranda Trees in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Where to Stay in Mexico City

1. La Condesa
2. Centro Histórico or Historic Centre
3. Zona Rosa / Colonia Juárez
4. San Rafael
5. Reforma / Juarez
6. Colonia Roma / La Roma
7. Coyoacan
8. Polanco
9. Areas to Avoid

Quick Reference Guide

La Condesa – Best neighbourhood for Cafes and Green Spaces
Historic Centre – Best neighbourhood for History Buffs
Zona Rosa – Best neighbourhood for Nightlife
San Rafael – Best neighbourhood for Theatre Lovers
La Reforma – Best neighbourhood for Modern Architecture
La Roma – Best neighbourhood for Foodies
Coyoacan – Best neighbourhood for a Community Atmosphere
Polanco – Best neighbourhood for High-End Shops and Luxury Goods

La Condesa

La Condesa is one of the trendiest neighbourhoods in Mexico City, and it is my absolute favourite place to stay. Condesa is located just southeast of Chapultepec Park. This hip neighbourhood is where you can find some of the best cafes and restaurants. But the real draw for me of this neighbourhood is the green spaces. The area is also known as the “lungs of the city,” with lush parks and tree-lined avenues around every corner. Parque México and Parque España both have beautifully landscaped gardens and fountains. They make for the best little escape from the rest of the world.

The architecture around here is phenomenal, with the largest collections of Art Deco buildings after Miami. On Sundays, the streets of Condesa come alive with live music and street vendors. A large portion of Condesa is residential with many beautiful apartment buildings and single-family homes. This allows the neighbourhood to feel like a little community and not just as a touristy area. The family atmosphere also means it is a safe place to stay. Important for first-time visitors to feel comfortable.

Sights Nearby: Parque España, Parque México, Chapultepec Castle, Museo Nacional de Antropología
Cafes/Restaurants: Cardinal Coffee House, El Moro, Lardo, Condesa Tianguis

Top Hotel for Great Amenities: Maria Condesa Hotel $$

Maria Condesa is a great mid-range option in La Condesa. The location is great, right in the heart of the La Condesa art deco area. The rooms are super stylish, and the suites come with a street view and walk-in saunas. A huge perk to staying here would be the restaurant on the terrace.

Top Hotel for a Home Away from Home: Casa Dovela $$$

Casa Dovela is a Boutique-House featuring contemporary duplexes and a beautiful one-bedroom suite. It’s a cross between a luxury home and a boutique hotel located along the art-deco streets of Condesa. The original building was left abandoned after the 1985 earthquake-like so many other residences in Condesa. But seeing its developmental potential, the hotel owners snapped it up.

They nabbed it just as the revitalization of Condesa was starting to take place. Aspects of the original architecture were preserved, but many parts of the building were modernized for aesthetics and comfort. Staying here in the heart of the neighbourhood, with a playground you can see from your window, you feel embedded into the community. Just outside your front door, a market pops up on Tuesdays where you can buy fresh produce and cook it up right at home.

Centro Histórico or Historic Centre

The historic center of Mexico City is located in the city’s heart. It is home to many of the country’s most popular tourist attractions. The historic centre was designated as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1987. It covered an area of about 450 hectares. Inside you’ll find the main plaza or Zocalo, along with all of its historical buildings. You can spend days exploring this neighbourhood without getting bored! The main downside to staying inside the historic centre is also the reason it’s such a wonderful place to stay. And that’s all the attractions, and therefore all the toursits.

Although being located close to all the historical sights gives you lots to do, it does feel like staying inside an amusement park. And when the sun goes down, the side streets are dead quiet as no locals live in the area. It is mainly a shopping and tourist district. Getting in and out of the area is also slightly problematic as many streets are closed to vehicle traffic. Which again is a huge plus when you are walking around but a downside when you arrive in a taxi with your luggage. So just be prepared to be dropped off a few streets away from your hotel and walk over to your destination.

Sights Nearby: Metropolitan Cathedral, National Palace, Templo Mayor, Alameda Central, Torre Latinoamericana
Cafes/Restaurants: Pastelería Ideal, Azul Histórico, LA OPERA, Dulcería de Celaya 

Best Hotel for History Lovers: Gran Hotel Ciudad De Mexico $$$

The Gran Hotel Ciudad De Mexico is a 5-star hotel with elegant rooms and a great location bordering Zocalo square. Some of the rooms even have a view of the large square. The highlight of the hotel is the grandiose Tiffany stained glass ceiling. It looms over you as you enter framed by the art deco wrought irons balconies that surround the lobby. You can soak in the splendour while sipping a coffee inside the lobby cafe. This is the perfect luxury option in a prime location. The hotel also offers a fabulous terrace restaurant overlooking the square if you didn’t get a room with a view.

Best Hotel for a Budget: Hampton Inn & Suites Mexico City $

If you’re looking for a budget version of the Gran Hotel, look no further than the Hampton Inn & Suites. The hotel is located inside a beautifully restored historic building complete with architectural styling dating back to the 1800s. Inside you’ll find simple yet comfortable and spacious rooms with modern conveniences. Like the Gran Hotel Ciudad, this hotel also features a six-storey atrium with a stained glass ceiling. Albeit not as impressive, it is nevertheless a stunning addition to welcome you inside.

Zona Rosa / Colonia Juárez

The Zona Rosa (Pink Zone) is located on the south side of Paseo de la Reforma Avenue. Found between Insurgentes Avenue and Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas. The area saw great expansion during the rise of Porfiriato. The Porfiriato is the time period between the late 19th and early 20th centuries when General Porfirio Díaz ruled. The previously poor neighbourhood was transformed into an elegant community.

Today, the Zona Rosa is renowned for its nightlife. It’s a favourite place for tourists due to the wide variety of venues in just a few blocks. It is a place where one can find many bars, dance clubs and restaurants. This area has also become important for the gay community of the city. Found in this part of town are many gay-friendly bars and discos. This is definitely the place to stay for those who enjoy the nightlife!

Sights Nearby: Mercado de Artesanías, The Angel of Independence, Glorieta de La Palma, Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela
Cafes/Restaurants: Chiquitito Café, Café Nin, La Casa de Toño, Tacos de Canasta de La Abuela

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Best Hotel to Feel Safe Cozy and Safe: Hotel Casa González $

Hotel Casa González has been operating inside the Zona Rosa for almost 100 years! The current owner’s grandfather built the two original homes in the mid-1920s. They were later joined together to create this unique hotel. As the hotel is located in front of the English Embassy, and just one block from the American Embassy, the area is frequented by local police officers. This is a great place to stay if you want to feel very safe. When you step through the tall gates entering the hotel, you are met with a secret garden oasis. A courtyard filled with trees and climbing vines where you’ll feel like you never want to leave. The rooms are very simple, yet each one has its own charming decor, making you feel right at home. The breakfast room is the best part where you feel like dining inside abuelas kitchen.

Best Hotel for Swimmers: Hotel Carlota $$

Hotel Carlota is an affordable boutique hotel was built inside an old house. It transformed the interior space to honour Mexico City. A city filled with culture, design, art, memories and modernity. The rooms are stylish, and the entire hotel has an indoor/outdoor open-air floor plan. Stepping out of your room, you can look down at the amazing pool below. Perfect for those hot, humid days.

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San Rafael

Just north of the Zona Rosa is the San Rafael neighbourhood. The area features beautiful colonial architecture, 19th-century mansions and art deco apartment buildings. San Rafael was once known as the “Broadway of Mexico,” where you’d find live music and performances. Today you can still see various mid-century theatres and art galleries popping up all over the place. This area is a great place to stay if you want to remain close to the Historic Centre while not being overwhelmed by the tourists. Here you can still feel that local sense of community.

Sights Nearby: Teatro Aldama, Teatro Mexico, Museo Nacional de la Revolución, The National Museum of San Carlos, Skulls & Art Exhibition
Cafes/Restaurants: LA TALAVERA, Tacos de Canasta de La Abuela, Pakaá, Restaurante y Banquetes El Sol

Best Hotel for Environmentalists: El Patio 77 $

El patio 77 is the first eco-friendly B&B in Mexico City! The hotel is located inside a 19th-century house that has been converted into eight unique suites. Each suite has its own design, inspired by Mexico City’s cultural and artistic heritage. The heart of the house is the courtyard, where you can dine on Mexican cuisine with other hotel guests. Since the boutique hotel is so small, book in advance, as the rooms book up quick!

Reforma / Juarez

Mexico City’s Reforma neighbourhood is located in the Benito Juarez borough. It is one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Mexico City, and yet it is also one of the most modern. It is considered almost like the Times Square of Mexico City. The streets in this area are straight and wide, which gives this area an air of sophistication. On either side of the road, you’ll stare up, up and up. Looking in awe at the amazing glass works of modern architecture. The beauty of staying in the Reforma / Juarez district is you have easy access to all the most popular neighbourhoods like; Centro Historico, Polanco, Roma, and Condesa.

The grand Paseo de La Reforma, which dominates the area, is lined with monuments and some of the most unbelievable modern architecture found anywhere in the city. On Sundays, the entire street is closed to motorists and is used by pedestrians and cyclists. Street vendors come out along with artisans selling arts and crafts on blankets on the sidewalk. It feels like a bustling festival that explodes onto the street every week!

Sights Nearby: Cafetería El Péndulo Zona Rosa, Mercado de Artesanías, Museo del Chocolate
Cafes/Restaurants: Churrería El Moro, Café Nin, Helena, La Casa de Toño

Best Hotel for a View: Sofitel Mexico City Reforma $$$

The new Sofitel Mexico City Reforma is the perfect place to indulge in a decidedly chic experience. This hotel combines the essence of Mexican culture with the spirit of French Art de Vivre. Ideally located on Paseo De La Reforma, it was one of this city’s first luxury hotels. Inside their contemporary and stylish suites, you get breathtaking views of the city and the famous Angel of Independence monument.

Best Hotel for the Breakfast Buffet: NH Collection Mexico City Reforma $

NH Collection Mexico City Reforma is a wonderful hotel at a great price in the centre of the Reforma neighbourhood. Even the largest and most prestigious rooms, come at a reasonable price! The Family suites and Terrace rooms all have their own private balconies, which look out onto the city below. If you are looking for the best start to your day, there is no better thing than their breakfast buffet. There are so many options your eyes might think to deceive you. Freshly made eggs, Mexican pastries, all kinds of fresh-made juices, sweets and meats and more!

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Colonia Roma / La Roma

Colonia Roma also called La Roma, (or simply Roma), is one of the trendiest neighbourhoods in Mexico City. The Colonia was designed as an upper-class neighbourhood in the early twentieth century. But after the 1985 Mexico City earthquake, the district quickly became a lower-class slum. No one seemed to want to take on its redevelopment right after the quake.

In the early 2000s, restaurant owners moved into the cheap rental units in the area. And slowly they began to revitalize the district. What these entrepreneurs found were some of the most architecturally stunning buildings in the city. Over the last 20 years, it has become once more one of the most upscale areas of the city. And with the best food found anywhere! If you’re a foodie, this needs to be your home base!

Walking around the neighbourhood in the daytime, you can admire the tranquil, ivy-draped historic homes. Browse the eclectic shops and art galleries. But with the setting of the sun, you’ll find the most unique nightlife. Be sure not to miss the traditional food vendors which pop up all over the streets at night. Their brightly painted signs and delicious-smelling food wafting all along the streets.

Sights Nearby: Goodbye Folk Vintage Boutique, Pushkin Garden, Cine Tonalá
Cafes/Restaurants: Lalo!, Taquería Álvaro Obregón, Mercado Roma, Panadería Rosetta

Best Hotel for the Avant Guard: Brick Hotel $$$

Brick Hotel is a fantastic example of how the Roma combines the Old World enchantment of Mexico city with fresh, contemporary energy. The Brick Hotel was originally a 20th-century mansion designed in the classic Belle Époque style. They transformed the rooms into an authentic and avant-garde boutique hotel with 17 ultra-stylish and modern rooms.

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Best Hotel for Oasis Living: Ignacia Guest House $$$

Ignacia Guest House is truly one of the best secrets hidden in Roma Norte. Under the purple blossoms of the Jacaranda tree lining the streets, you will be welcomed home. The house was originally an old 20th-century mansion that has been transformed into just six elegant suites. Since there are so few rooms, everyone who stays here feels like family.

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Each suite is designed in a different colour, blending history and Mexican artisan tradition with contemporary design. In fact, Ignacia Guest House has been internationally acclaimed for its interior design, architecture, and restoration. During the day, guests can abandon their daily routine and enjoy the historical details, gardens, and spaces. In the morning, they can have breakfast at the communal tables or in the garden under an orange tree. Book well in advance as the rooms are highly coveted by anyone in the know who visits Mexico City.

Coyoacan

Coyoacan is a southern suburb of Mexico City. It is known for its colourful historic center, which has preserved much of its colonial-era architecture. The district was an independent Aztec town before the Spanish conquest in 1521. And being located away from the centre the neighbourhood remained largely undeveloped until the 20th century. There is a slowness to this part of town which I love. A restful atmosphere that contrasts the explosive energy of Mexico City’s business district. This is where I always come to relax. To make my way to their various parks and gardens to read or paint. Whiling away the sunny days under the umbrellas of chic cafes and fantastic restaurants.

This was also the neighbourhood where Frida Kahlo was born and died. It was also where she lived with her husband, Diego Rivera. Frida’s fingerprint is embedded into the essence of this part of town. And her colourful and creative personality is reflected on every street corner and plaza you visit.

Sights Nearby: Plaza Jardin Hidalgo, Coyoacan Market, Frida Kahlo Museum, Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Cafes/Restaurants: LOS AMANTES Café & Bistro, Cafe El Jarocho, Café Avellaneda, Mesón Antigua

Best Hotel for a Peaceful Getaway: Casa Jacinta Guest House $$

One of my favourite parts about staying in Coyaocan is that there aren’t any large hotels. Instead, you have a wide selection of fantastical Guest Houses to choose from. Steps away from the famous Café El Jarocho coffee shop is the Casa Jacinta Guest House. This old traditional house has 11 rooms of different sizes, a haven of serenity and beautiful traditional Mexican decoration. The ivy-covered balconies, brightly tiled bathrooms and peaceful gardens transport you to a bygone time. Book a room that opens up on the ground floor into the lush, green garden for an extra special treat. Stepping out to that view every morning is the best way to start your day.

Best Hotel for a Home away from Home: H21 Hospedaje Boutique $$

Just off of the central Plaza Jardin Hidalgo is the H21 Hospedaje Boutique Hotel. The house, now a hotel, was originally built in 1928. It was remodelled into a Mexican-contemporary style that will delight all those that pass through the doors. Their suites also feature a living room, sofa and kitchen. Making it the best place to stay for a longer vacation where you can truly feel at home. Venture out to the colourful Coyoacan Market and bring home some fresh fruits, veggies and meat. Try and test your hand at a home-cooked meal! If you don’t want to do any cooking on your vacation, book one of their terrace rooms. Here you can sit outside in your own private outdoor space sipping on michelada and mescals.

Polanco

Located in the northwest and above the Bosque de Chapultepec, Polanco is an upscale residential and business district. The leafy side streets are dotted with Spanish Colonial Revival mansions and luxe apartments. At the same time, the main drags are filled with luxury brands and upscale international restaurants. As it is one of the most expensive areas in the city, Polanco is also very safe. So this neighbourhood would be ideal for families planning to visit Mexico City. Be prepared to spend a pretty penny in this area! But for those looking for extravagance, you’ve come to the right place!

Sights Nearby: Xinú Perfumes, Parque Lincoln, Bosque de Chapultepec, Museo Nacional de Antropología
Cafes/Restaurants: Pujol, Dulce Patria, Rosa Negra, ENO, Boicot Café Polanco,

Best Hotel for Architecture Buffs: Camino Real Polanco Mexico $$

The Camino Real Polanco is a beautiful hotel/museum designed by renowned architect Ricardo Legorreta. The space opened its doors to the public on July 25th, 1968. When it opened it was famous for combining modern features with shapes clearly reminiscent of prehispanic pyramids. Elements from these merge together to create an architectural masterpiece! There is something so nostalgic about the 60’s decor, which is so atmospheric. Plus, as it is not a high-end luxury hotel, the rooms come at a reasonable price for the area! If you have a little more cash to spend, book one of the suites as the retro decor is incredible. The view out towards the best architectural features of the hotel is wonderfully highlighted.

Bets Hotel for Interior Design: Orchid House Polanco $$$

Nothing feels more like Mexican royalty than a stay at the Orchid House Polanco. The Orchid House provides visitors with the exquisite feeling of being at home with the comforts of a hotel. Hidden away inside a 100-year-old mansion, the hotel is filled with blue and coloured stained glass, antique barro floors hand-painted with images of Don Quijote and Shakespeare. There are also neoclassic mouldings and rich, traditional antique pink cantera stone. Each room is exquisitely designed and features textiles and handmade decorations from local artisan communities.

Areas to Avoid

Just as it’s important to discuss where to stay, it’s also important to know where to avoid. Remember, it’s never worth saving a bit of money if it puts you at any risk.

I hope this guide helps you find the perfect place to stay to make the most of your trip to Mexico City!

Happy Travels, Adventurer!

The post The Best Places to Stay in Mexico City, Neighbourhood Guide first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Diego Rivera was a Mexican painter, muralist, and pioneer in the art of social realism. He is best known for his monumental frescoes depicting Mexican history from the conquest to the revolution. His work has been exhibited worldwide, housed in the most prestigious museums. But the best examples of Diego Rivera’s work can be found here in Mexico City. In public spaces as well as time-honoured museums. This guided tour takes you across the city, diving into unknown corners and popular tourist sites. So come with me on a walking tour in the footsteps of Diego Rivera.

Table Of Contents

1. About Diego Rivera
2. Start of the Tour: El Cardenal
3. Museo Mural Diego Rivera
4. Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central
5. Palacio de Bellas Artes
6. Mexican Secretaria of Public Education Headquarters
7. Former College of San Ildefonso
8. Mercado Presidente Abelardo L. Rodriguez
9. Antigua Academia de San Carlos
10. Palacio Nacional
11. Cárcamo de Dolores
12. Panteón de Dolores
13. Coyoacan and San Angel
14. Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
15. Plaza San Jacinto
16. Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
17. Casa Azul
18. Frida Kahlo Park
19. Museo Anahuacalli
20. Museo Dolores Olmedo

About Diego Rivera

Diego Rivera was born, along with his twin, in Guanajuato, Mexico, in 1886. Sadly, his twin brother died only two years after they were born. Even at such a young age, his twin’s loss significantly impacted Rivera. Perhaps this event created the storm of passion, artistry and creativity Rivera was known for. In fact, it was after his brother died that Diego began to paint. Perhaps as a means to deal with his grief.

Early Education & Artistic Career

Diego began art studies at the Academy of San Carlos in Mexico City at ten years old. The school was located in the heart of the city’s historic centre. The spark of creativity was ignited when he left his small town and studied in the big city. Diego was so talented that the school sent him to study in Europe. All of the greats were sent to Europe as it was seen as the centre of artistic creations.

Diego first studied in Spain, and after success there; he went to study in the pinnacle of art cities; Paris. Rivera loved Pars and lived there for years. He was inspired by the work of artists such as Pablo Picasso and Georges Braque. He immersed himself in the immerging style of Cubism and Paul Cézanne’s post-impressionism. From all these inspiring artists, Diego began to incorporate bolder colours, simpler forms and even abstract elements into his painting. This new style of painting demanded the viewer’s attention. Some paintings scream; they do not whisper. And Diego wanted his art to cry out.

Diego’s Love Life

It was in Paris where Diego met his first wife, Angelina Beloff. A fellow artist from Russia. Despite his atypically handsome appearance, Diego was a lothario. Always with a woman wed and a different one in his bed. During his marriage to Beloff, he was also in a relationship with Maria Vorobieff-Stebelska. Maria would give birth to Marika, Rivera’s first daughter.

Rivera divorced Beloff when he moved back to Mexico City in 1922. Soon after arriving back in Mexico, he met and married Guadalupe Marín. The new couple had two daughters together, named Ruth and Guadalupe.

Diego and Frida

But their relationship also didn’t last, as he was already having another affair with young Frida Kahlo. He divorced Guadalupe Marin in 1929 and married Frida a few months later. He was 44 years old, while she was just 22. Frida and Diego were like fire on fire. Both with huge personalities and huge tempers. But their tumultuous relationship fueled their art. They were both unfaithful during different parts of their marriage. But even these extramarital companions couldn’t soothe the wounds they caused each other. They eventually divorced in 1939. Only after Frida’s death in 1955 did Rivera marry again. This time to his long-time agent, Emma Hurtado.

Mexican Muralism

Diego is best known for his work in the Mexican Muralism movement. When he returned to Mexico City, it was under the influence of the Mexican ambassador to France, Alberto J. Pani. The new Mexican Minister of Education, José Vasconcelos, was undertaking a new program of government-sponsored Mexican murals. These murals would be installed all over cities across the country. It was the government’s attempt to reunify the country post-Mexican revolution. The murals were meant to promote political ideas, depict real Mexican society (the good and the bad) and reflect views of the social revolution. To help those who could not read or attend school learn their history.

Rivera’s Unique Style

The three artists who undertook this project were called “the big three” or “The Three Greats.” The group was composed of Diego Rivera, José Clemente Orozco and David Alfaro Siqueiros. Through these murals, inspired by the national identity of Mexico, Rivera developed his iconic native style. This style was based on large, simplified figures and bold colours with an Aztec influence. It is this style that made Diego an icon and gave Mexico its own national art style.

Rivera became so popular that he was called to the United States to bring his style of mural painting to public buildings in the US. He spent a few years working in the US until a disagreement with the Rockerfellers on a large commission fueled his charge back to Mexico City. He continued working on some of the most important commissions of his life until his death on November 24, 1957. After this death, the government of Mexico declared Rivera’s works as “monumentos historicos” due to their importance in the country’s art history.

Start of the Tour: El Cardenal

To start your morning exploring Mexico City in the footsteps of Diego Rivera, you MUST book yourself brunch at El Cardenal. Inside the restaurant is a domineering mural, an artistic replica of one of the most famous Rivera murals. Sitting under a work of art is a great way to bask in its glory while enjoying some delicious Mexican cuisine.

El Cardenal is located inside the Hilton Reforma Hotel. But originally, the hotel which stood in this place was the Hotel del Prado. The Hotel del Prado was built in 1946 as one of the most luxurious hotels in the city. To cement the hotel’s status as one of the top-tier establishments, they hired Diego Rivera to paint a mural inside their new dining room. Sadly, almost nothing of the old hotel remains, as the Hotel del Prado collapsed after the infamous 1985 Mexico City earthquake. The only thing pulled from the wreckage was the mural, which miraculously could be salvaged. The original mural was moved into the nearby Museo Mural Diego Rivera. But this artistic reimagining was made for the new hotel dining room to keep the same spirit of the original.

Dining at El Cardenal

El Cardenal is a small chain of restaurants found all over the city. Their mantra is preserving national folk cuisine and putting it forward for guests to enjoy. Diego himself loved to eat. Although he wasn’t a great cook, food was a major part of his life. Diego and Frida would frequent the marketplace to draw inspiration. And, before leaving, I would fill up on ingredients to bring home. Famous, Diego would end each night with a late supper of hot chocolate and pan dulce. One of his favourite meals that Frida would make for him was a chicken mole. He loved traditional Mexican cuisine and was passionate about preserving it. And this restaurant is the perfect place to enjoy so many traditional dishes.

Museo Mural Diego Rivera

After breakfast, head over to the Museo Mural Diego Rivera. Despite being called a “museum,” the Museo Mural Diego Rivera is simply one large room designed to house the preserved mural from the Hotel del Prado. Thankfully admission is just over a dollar, so it’s more than worth a visit! After the devastating 1985 earthquake, the mural was saved (in pieces) and moved to the museum. Here, it was reassembled with care and restored to as close to its original condition as possible.

Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central

The mural is called Sueño de Una Tarde dominical en la Alameda Central (or Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central.) The exquisite mural spanned over 15 meters wide and was painted in 1947. The setting of the painting is, as mentioned in the title, Alameda Central. Alameda Central is a nearby park that has been a gathering place for locals for hundreds of years. The park was built in 1592 under the order of Viceroy Luis de Velasco II. It is now considered the oldest public park in the Americas. But long before it was a public city park, the area was an important site for the Aztec community. It was here where they held their enormous marketplace long before Spanish colonization.

Alameda Central

Alameda is from the Spanish word “álamo,” which means “grove of poplars.” The poplar trees that were once spread out through the park sadly do not remain today. Today, the trees have been replaced by ash, chestnut and willow trees. The group pictured in the park is filled with historical caricatures from over 400 years of Mexican history. They have all gathered together in this dream of Rivera’s. Although the dream sometimes feels more like a nightmare. Many historical paintings are told by the victors. Therefore they scrub away the sins of their past. But Diego, in all his works, never shied away from showing the grim realities of life. Violence and corruption permeated the history of Mexico.

Left Side of the Mural

The scenes from the painting can be read chronologically from left to right. You can get right up close to the mural in the museum to view these life-sized figures. Getting so close lets you feel the energy depicted within the scene. The piece seems to reverberate; gunshots fire, horses rear, police seize innocent indigenous children and the echoes of revolution swell in the background.

Hernan Cortez

One of the first figures of note to find is Hernan Cortez. You can see him off on edge to the left, dressed in his traditional military armour. His hands are posed in prayer as he is posed in front of flames that burn behind him. The flames of war he ignited. Beside him are victims of the Spanish Inquisition. Priests can be seen brutally punishing the victims, and a man all in black is in mid-swing of his cat of nine tails whip. One of the victims wears a sanbenito robe and conical hat. The iconic hat is now sometimes referred to as a “dunce cap.” The garments were worn by penitent heretics before they were put to the auto-da-fé. This “act of faith” was a ritual of public penance where the victims were killed by burning.

Below the large tree on the left, you can see two generals facing each other. The general on the left with the feathered admiral hat is Mexican president López de Santa Anna. Beside him is American General Scott. In 1846, during the presidency of López de Santa Anna, the Americans invaded Mexico City. And their encampment was actually located right inside Alameda Central.

Benito Juárez

Despite being farther into the background, the image of Benito Juárez, president of Mexico, is almost the largest face on the entire left side. He is seen holding a series of papers in his hands. Benito Juárez was President of Mexico from 1857 to 1872. During his time in office, Mexico suffered a second struggle for independence, a second defeat for the European powers, and a second reversal of the conquest. His greatest legacy was signing the Juárez Law, which declared all citizens equal before the law and restricted the privileges of the Catholic Church and the Mexican army.

Center Mural

The centre of the frame is the most vibrant and dreamlike part of the painting. It features bourgeois men and women in their Sunday best. In the background, the lush tropical park with a large fountain seems to glow with almost an ethereal neon hue. Above the scene in the centre is a huge hot air balloon flying above. The balloonist waves his Mexican flag, and the balloon is emblazoned with the Mexican Republic insignia.

La Calavera Catrina

The centre is dominated by a large, white skeletal figure called La Calavera Catrina. La Calavera Catrina (also called ‘the Dapper Skeleton’ or ‘elegant skull’) was originally conceived as a black and white cartoon. It was first drawn in 1910 by illustrator and lithographer José Guadalupe Posada. Rivera actually portrays Posada in this mural as well. He is seen to the right of La Calavera Catrina, holding her arm under his.

Originally, La Calavera Catrina was meant to be a caricature. She represented the elite of Mexico City during the reign of Porfirio Diaz. The caricature symbolizes a Mexican woman who has given up her Mexican culture and adopted high-society European aesthetics. Depicted with her huge Europe-styled hat and expensive feathers. And yet the woman is a skeleton. As if to say that no matter how you see yourself in this world, we are all the same underneath it all. Just bones. Over the years, La Catrina has become the symbol of death in Mexico. Her visage is a traditional part of the Day of the Dead celebrations.

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Rivera’s Calavera Catrina

In Diego’s mural, he has given the original sketch a whole body. While the face and large hat mirror the original drawing to a T, Diego has added some new elements. This includes a sumptuous feathered boa that hangs around her neck. But if you look closely, you’ll see the feathered boa still has a head and tail. This is meant to represent the Aztec serpent god Quetzalcóatl. Around her waist, La Calavera Catrina wears a belt with a gold buckle in the shape of an old Aztec symbol. This symbolizes La Calavera Catrina’s transition from caricature to a new form of revered god in the people’s eyes. She wears the body of the old god around her neck as she steps in to take its place.

Young Diego

In La Calavera, Catrina’s other hand, she holds the hand of a young Diego Rivera. Rivera has a playful little smile on his face. You can see a small toad poking out its head in his breast pocket, and in his other pocket, out comes a green snake. The umbrella he holds in his hand has the face of a bird, perhaps the Crested Caracara, often referred to as the “Mexican Eagle.” 

Frida Kahlo

Directly behind Diego stands Frida Kahlo. Frida’s hand lovingly rested on Diego’s shoulder. She holds a medallion with the yin-yang symbol in her opposite hand. Famously, Diego and Frida were polar opposites, yet they were drawn to each other despite these differences. In Chinese philosophy, the symbols depict the fundamental duality in humanity: female (“Yin”) and male (“Yang.”) Both Frida and Diego frequently painted images of each other in their artworks. In each of these paintings, there is always a coded message about the state of their relationship.

Throughout Diego’s career, Frida was always thought to be working in Diego’s shadow. She was known more as “the wife of Deigo Rivera” rather than an artist in her own right. And yet, here she is, the elder partner. Seemingly guiding Diego with her hand on his shoulder. Frida’s health was declining fast when Rivera painted this mural. Perhaps his small stature in the painting also reflects his helplessness in the face of her impending death.

Right Side of the Mural

To the right of the central group, we can see Porfirio Díaz looking down on them. Dressed in his military uniform and feathered hat, his decerning eyes gaze angrily at the group gathered. Díaz served seven terms as the President of Mexico. But this was better known as a dictatorship in the later years. Díaz started out as someone who aimed to turn the country around and free the people from the French. But once he came to power, his policies only benefited his circle of allies. The peasantry did not share in Mexico’s prosperity, leading to the Mexican Revolution of 1910. 

Below Díaz, on the ground, we see an indigenous family being forced to leave the park. They are being pushed away by a series of police officers. This is how Rivera uses transparency in his art. He aims to depict the racism that even the Mexican people have towards their indigenous community.

Francisco I. Madero

On the far right, up in a tree in front of a large Mexican flag, we can see Francisco I. Madero. He is smiling and waving his black hat up in the air. Madero was the head of the movement that overthrew Porfirio Díaz. Sadly, Madero was murdered during the Ten Tragic Days of 1913. His murderers, General Victoriano Huerta and Manuel Mondragón are also portrayed in the mural. Their menacing grey faces with prominent mustaches are hidden behind the crowd in the lower right corner. 

Also in the lower right corner are a group of women important to Rivera. This includes his ex-wife Guadalupe Marín, his daughters Guadalupe and Ruth Rivera Marín and his great friend Rosa Rolando Covarrubias. In the arms of his daughter Guadalupe, she holds her young son Juan Pablo. Perhaps by depicting his grandson in the photo, Diego wanted to cap the mural off with an image of hope. Hope for the future and for a better world for his grandson.

Alameda Central

After touring the museum, take a walk in the actual Alameda Central. Strolling through the gardens, monuments and pathways, you can get a sense of the vibrant atmosphere that must have inspired the setting for Rivera’s artwork. While the eastern portion of the park was for leisurely promenades, the park’s west end held a more nefarious purpose. This western section was originally built during the Mexican Inquisition. It was known as the “Burning Place.” Here, convicted witches and people accused of treason were publicly burned at the stake. While you don’t immediately think of Mexico as a place of witch trials, these inquisitions spread worldwide. When the inquisitions ended in 1770, the burning plaza was destroyed and transformed into an extension of the park.

One of the most important monuments is the “Hemiciclo de Benito Juárez.” This large semi-circle of eight towering marble columns with a central plinth is topped with a group of neoclassical statues. In the center is statesman Benito Juárez himself. Juárez was the 26th president of Mexico and, most importantly, the first president of Mexico of indigenous origin. On either side of him are two allegorical female statues representing the fatherland and law. On the pedestal he sits, you can see the inscription “Al benemerito Benito Juárez la Patria.” This translates into “To the meritorious Benito Juárez, the Homeland.”

Palacio de Bellas Artes

The Palacio de Bellas Artes, with its iconic sunset tiled roof, is one of the most iconic images of Mexico City. The Palacio de Bellas Artes hosts music, dance, theatre, opera and literature and is aptly named the “Cathedral of Art in Mexico.” The exterior of the building is primarily Neoclassical. But inside, you’ll discover a plethora of modern Art Deco and Art Nouveau stylings. Adding to the incredible decor of the interior is a series of murals wrapping around the walls. Each of these murals was commissioned by star painters of the Mexican Muralism movement. This includes; José Clemente Orozco, David Alfaro Siqueiros, Jorge González Camarena, Roberto Montenegro, Manuel Rodríguez Lozano and (most famously) Diego Rivera.

Man, Controller of the Universe

On the 3rd floor is where you can find Diego Rivera’s Man, Controller of the Universe. The mural is a recreation of the original mural once painted for New York City’s Rockefeller Center in 1933. When it was first thought up by Rivera, he named it Man at the Crossroads. But halfway through the project, the Rockefellers and Rivera disagreed about the subject matter depicted in the mural. The piece was meant to represent aspects of contemporary social and scientific culture. While the Rockefellers loved Rivera’s work, a damning article by the New York World-Telegram called the mural “anti-capitalist propaganda.”

Rivera and Lenin

Rivera was furious by the statement. As a means of revolt, he added a portrait of Lenin hidden within the mural. This portrait had not been approved in his original sketches. But Rivera hoped it wouldn’t draw any attention by hiding among other large portraits. Unfortunately, right before the unveiling, the Rockefellers took notice and demanded it is painted over. Rivera refused, and the entire piece was destroyed. This was a massive blow to Rivera’s ego. He was quoted as saying, “Rather than mutilate the conception [of the mural], I shall prefer the physical destruction of the conception in its entirety, but preserving, at least, its integrity.”

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After its destruction, Rivera recreated it in Mexico City on a blank wall in the Palacio Belles Artes. Rivera had asked his assistance to take pictures of the original mural before it was torn. This ensured he could recreate it perfectly here at the Palacio Belles Artes. When he was finished, he named this version Man, Controller of the Universe. A much more powerful title and reflective of his overall worldview.

Reading the Mural

The mural is split up into three different sections. In the center is a workman turning a giant piece of machinery. As if he is controlling the world around him with this machinery. Rivera was a staunch atheist, and his idea of man being the controller of his own destiny, not god, is evidently presented here. On the right side of the mural are depictions of capitalism, and on the left are depictions of communism. As mentioned in the original title, the universe appears at a crossroads. And we don’t know which way the man in the center will turn the wheel…

Central Mural

Emerging from the lower portion of the workman’s body is a giant fist. In the tight grasp of the fist, we can see an orb. Inside the orb are images of atoms and cells dividing in the act of chemical and biological generation. An ethereal blue light glows from around the edge of the orb. And tendrils start to emanate and spread out onto the rest of the image.
Radiating from behind the man is a series of propeller-like shapes. Inside each shape are images on both the micro and macro levels. Images as far away as the cosmos or as close up as bacteria are all seen through a microscope. Rivera is telling us that man can see it all. Beneath the mechanical structure, you’ll notice a small garden growing. This is meant to represent Mexico’s controlled growth of rich natural resources.

Left Side of the Mural

To the mural’s left side, we can see a small grouping of high society women playing cards and smoking. Hidden within the group of women, Rivera painted a portrait of John D. Rockefeller. Painting him among the clueless and cruel elite was revenge for Rockefeller destroying Rivera’s mural in New York.

Outside of their “social circle,” just beside the elite, are the faces of haggard workers looking on. Exhausted, angry expressions paint their faces. Above them, riots roars and police on horseback swing their batons, trying to silence protesters. This is a harsh contrast to the carefree gambling parties on the right. They are entirely unaware of the reality of the world around them inside their bubble.

Charles Darwin

In the foreground, a group of students of different ethnic backgrounds sit in lecture chairs. They appear to be watching the scene unfold through the large oculus in front of them. They are the hope for tomorrow, and only through learning about the past will they shape a better future. To the students’ left, we can see an x-ray machine controlled by a timid bearded man who represents Darwin. He is surrounded on the floor by different animals, which his studies revolve around.

Above the group stands a giant classical marble statue of the Greek god Jupiter. He looks furious, raising his hand to the sky. But a thunderbolt appears to strike his hand and break it from the rest of the statue. Around his neck is a large wooden cross. Rivera points out how Christianity and the Greek gods were false and would be destroyed by this new world. For Rivera, past myths have no influence on the future, where science and our understanding of the natural world around us reign supreme.

Above the entire scene is an assemblage of faceless soldiers and war machinery. Each soldier wears a terrifying gas mask on their face, obscuring their identity. Above the soldiers, the sky is filled with planes against a blood-red sky. A comment from Rivera on the violence created by capitalism.

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Right Side of the Mural

While the left side seems focused on war, the right side is a socialist utopia. On the right, between the propellers, we can see that famous image of Lenin. The very same one, the Rockefellers, were so up in arms about. In Lenin’s hands, he holds diverse workers around him. To the left of the group with Lenin is one of the brightest parts of the mural. Four women are shown in brilliant white athletic uniforms against a brilliant backdrop. A beautiful symbol of the power and hope Rivera had for women.

Along the top edge of the right mural are a large group of men and women celebrating the Russian May Day rally. Each wears a red cap or scarf and flies flags to symbolize communism. On the far right, we see another classical sculpture depicting a seated Caesar with his head cut off. Around Casesar’s waist, he clutches a bundle wrapped with a belt displaying the nazi symbol. Rivera viewed Caesar as a man of material goods. His beheading was a message from Rivera to rid ourselves of these material obsessions.

Leon Trotsky

At the feet of the headless statue is a man with round glasses and white hair. This is Leon Trotsky, a Ukrainian-Russian Marxist revolutionary, political theorist and politician. Trotsky and Rivera were once good friends. Trotsky even came to live in Mexico City after being expelled from the Soviet Union. Despite their best efforts to keep him safe, Trotsky was assassinated in his home in Coyoacán. Trotsky holds a giant red flag, supported by the industrial workers around him, representing Marxist theory. In the bottom left corner, one of the workers can be seen sitting casually on the statue’s head from above.

Stand back and take the entire mural in as one large scene. By doing this, you can appreciate how the left, the capitalist society, feels grim. On the right, more emotions are on the people’s faces, more rich colours. The people on the left are controlled by the government and religious institutions, and only the elite are free. But on the right, communist society is given control and freedom to create its own universe. Controlled by the people.

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Diego and Frida’s Funerals

Another big connection that the Palacio Belles Artes has to Diego is that it was the designated location for the funeral of his ex-wife Frida Kahlo. And would go on to be where he would be laid in state after his own death. Diego arranged for Frida’s body to be laid out in the Palacio de Bellas Artes. The government agreed, only if they would make it an entirely non-political event. Diego agreed. But unbeknownst to him, one of Frida’s students came to pay their respects and threw a huge communist flag over her casket. The government threatened to remove her body, but Diego refused to let them. He said if they tried, he would carry her dead body in his arm. And sit with her on the palace’s steps. They reluctantly agreed, and the flag remained on her casket, one last act of defiance.

Mexican Secretaria of Public Education Headquarters

Take a walk along the pedestrian-only Av Francisco I. Madero west towards the inner portion of the Historic Centre. When you reach the República de Brasil, head north, crossing westward once more along Luis González Obregón street. A few steps down the street, you’ll immediately see the Mexican Secretaria of Public Education Headquarters. The enormous building is spread over an entire city block. The facades that face out onto the different bounding streets are each done in a unique architectural style. Changing depending on the era in which it was created.

Diego Rivera Murals

Walk inside the iron gates from the República de Argentina to enter the open-air courtyard. You’ll usually see two armed guards on either side of the doors. Since this is still a government office, they take security seriously. Tell them you are there to visit the Diego Rivera murals. The guards will usually let you in if there aren’t any private events. But they might do a quick security check of any bags, so don’t let that surprise you. Inside the doors, you’ll enter the first of two large adjoining courtyards. Covering the courtyard’s walls are 235 panelled murals painted by none other than Diego Rivera. This was Rivera’s first large-scale painting project.

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Rivera and Vasconcelos

When Rivera returned to Mexico from his studies in Europe, it was to participate in a new mural program started. The program was the pet project of the new Secretary of Public Education, José Vasconcelos. Vasconcelos thought that art was a powerful tool for education. He went about commissioning large-scale mural projects across the city to bring art to the public. This project took place after the great Mexican revolution. Art was to be used to help communicate to the people that this new government would guarantee the new life promised by the revolution. And the first building Vasconcelos wanted Diego Rivera to work on was aptly the same one he worked in.

Like many of his contemporaries, Rivera believed that easel painting was considered too aristocratic. He and his contemporaries thought large, public murals could reach a larger audience. Art didn’t need to be hidden away inside stuffy museums or only appreciated by those with a critical eye. Art was for everyone.

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Education Mural Themes

Rivera started work on the murals in 1923, which took the painter five years to complete. Despite the overly Greek-influenced exterior, these murals focused powerfully on the Mexican identity. The murals followed themes of the Mexican Revolution and the glorification of Mexican labourers. Rivera’s themes are divided by the two courtyards. The larger courtyard focuses on Labour, and the smaller courtyard is dedicated to the Mexican Fiesta. Unlike the European influence that paints the colonial parts of the city, these murals focused on traditional Mexican heritage.

Fiesta Courtyard

The smaller Fiesta Courtyard is the first one you’ll enter. Here there are murals on the ground floor depicting various meaningful events in the Mexican calendar. You’ll see scenes from the Deer Dance, the Day of the Dead and the Corn Fiesta. There are also murals featuring the Meeting on May 1st, Good Friday and the Ribbon Dance.

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Walk up the stairs to the second level, where you can view one of the most important of Rivera’s murals. This massive painting, called The Arsenal, portrays a group of revolutionaries preparing for battle. In the center, you can see the image of a young woman in red wearing a communist star on her shoulder. The woman who posed for this painting was none other than Frida Kahlo. He painted her when she was just a student, long before the two would be married. Hovering above the murals, Rivera painted a sprawling red banner. The banners span the entire wall length and connect one scene to the other. The text written upon it is lyrics to various revolutionary songs called “corridos.”

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Labor Courtyard

The larger courtyard surrounds a beautiful green garden full of lush foliage. In this area, you can see scenes depicting Mexican labourers. Using looms, you’ll find images of mineworkers, sugar mill labourers, and craftspeople. Women set about dying fabric, smelters work in hot ovens, and busy farmers sell their goods in the marketplace.

On the second-floor staircase are a series of murals highlighting Mexico’s diverse landscape. From the bright blue coastlines to the lush green mountains. The murals on the second level are dedicated to what Rivera considered the four primary elements of painting. These are light, colours, man and geometry.

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Former College of San Ildefonso

Head back outside and make your way to the Former College of San Ildefonso, now the Museo De San Ildefonso. As you walk towards the building, take a moment to study the architecture of the building. The ancient blood-red volcanic stones are contrasted with a series of elaborately designed windows. The vibrant stained glass still gleams in the sunlight even to this day.

You walk through the double arcade outside Justo Sierra to enter the building. Stand outside the door for a minute to appreciate the elaborate Neo-Churrigueresque architecture. Neo-Churrigueresque is also known as Ultra Baroque. The style developed primarily in Spain but made its way to their colonies. Here it seemed to find a loving home in the arms of the Mexican people who love decoration. The style is primarily identifiable by extremely expressive and florid decorative details. While these elements bleed into the rest of the building, their main cluster surrounds the entrances and facades.

Mexican Muralist Movement

Inside the old college, it’s here that the Mexican Muralist movement was said to be invented. The building was originally constructed in 1588 as a Jesuit College. But when the Jesuits were expelled, the school became a residence for soldiers in 1767. Then, in the 1860s, the building was once more transformed into a school by president Benito Juárez. Juárez took schooling out of the hands of the clergy and into the hands of the government. Back then, the school saw over 700 students in and out of doors daily.

Government Mural Program

As the school was brimming with activity, the government thought this spot would be the perfect spot to feature a new government-sponsored mural. They commissioned a series of murals with themes relating to Mexico’s history and the politics of the post-Revolution era. Various artists contributed to the art spread across the walls of the college. The artists included; Ramón Alva de la Canal, Fermin Revueltas, Fernando Leal, José Clemente Orozco, David Alfaro Siqueiros, and Diego Rivera.

The building remained a functioning college until 1978, when it finally closed its door. It wasn’t until 1992 that it was reopened as a public museum and cultural center. Today there is always a series of rotating exhibitions on display. Many of them feature subjects relating to art and archeology in Mexico.

Creation Mural

Admission into the museum costs 50 pesos as there are rotating exhibitions on display inside. But if you just want a peek at Rivera’s work, you can sneak inside the Bolívar Amphitheater. This is found to the left of the entrance. You can access the theatre without admission, so long as there is no performance inside. Inside the Bolívar Amphitheater is one of Diego Rivera’s earliest murals, The Creation. This singular mural took Rivera over a year to complete, spanning over a thousand square feet!

The entire piece is a symbolic composition combining mythological and religious motifs. Along the top, in the center of the mural, is a blue astrological sphere with three hands emanating. This represents the holy trinity, stretching outwards towards the audience. In the middle are images of Adam and Eve, flanked on either side by the muses; Love, Hope, Faith, Prudence, Justice, Strength, Wisdom and Science.

Rivera’s Early Style

In this painting, Rivera’s art style’s youth can be studied. His iconic, more abstract technique seems to be missing. As if he hasn’t found his authentic voice just yet. The piece follows a similar style to that of Italian Renaissance fresco paintings. But even within this early work, his use of geometric structure, powerful facial expressions and strong composition are persistent.

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Mercado Presidente Abelardo L. Rodriguez

Less than ten minutes from the college, you can make your way to the Mercado Presidente Abelardo L. Rodriguez. This simple community marketplace is home to a series of murals painted by Diego Rivera’s students. While the work wasn’t by Diego himself, I love the idea of seeing his ideologies passed down to the next generation. And studying the works allows you to appreciate Rivera’s impact on future artists.

Market Murals

The market was built in 1934, and at the time, it was known for being very modern. It spread over 12,450 square metres and featured a daycare, youth center, library and large auditorium. It was more than just a market; it was a community centre. But most importantly, the architect hired Diego Rivera’s students to paint murals. These murals would span the entire interior wall and ceiling with themes portraying socialist ideologies popular at the time in Mexico City.

The young artists were passionate about reflecting the exploitation of workers, peasants and miners, especially by the elite of Mexico. The murals also depicted the fight against the Nazis, fascism, and racism. When the murals were initially painted, they were thought to be the city’s fourth most important public murals. And yet, over the years, they began to deteriorate. After the devastating 1985 earthquake, the marketplace began to fall into disrepair. The humidity started to peel the paint, and as the area was losing its prominent status, vandalism was also a problem. The mural was all but lost to the ages. But thanks to a group of concerned merchants, restorations began in 2008. This ensured these pieces of national history would be preserved. Although restorations are ongoing, you can walk around the marketplace today to see many iconic paintings.

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Antigua Academia de San Carlos

Walk south down Calle Loreto, east across República de Guatemala and down La Academie. Here you’ll find the Academia de San Carlos. This was the first art academy in Mexico and the “new world.” They opened their doors in 1785 and primarily taught academic neoclassicism to their students.

But over the years, the students began to rebel against the learnings of teachers from Europe. They longed for their own national artistic identity. This came to a head in 1911 when the student began to strike. This strike would last over two years. The students demanded to be able to paint outdoors. They wanted to be able to experiment more in their artwork and eventually shift towards a modern form of painting. Diego Rivera was the leader they needed and became the academy director in 1929. He was the perfect choice to appease the students. His entire career has been about telling the story of the Mexican people and bringing modern art to the masses.

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Palacio Nacional

To finish off our tour of Diego Rivera’s murals in the historic centre, we must pay a visit to the Palacio Nacional (or National Palace). This is his piece-de-resistance. The Palacio Nacional is an enormous museum with so much to see and do. Entrance to the National Palace is free, although there is usually a long lineup to get inside. You need to leave a piece of ID with the guards at the door. Since the Palace is still home to the offices of the Mexican President, security is critical. They need to control the number of people and keep track of exactly who is inside. The entrance to the National Palace can be found on Moneda Street.

History of the Palace

The site of the building was once Moctezuma II’s Grand Palace. His great residence was built here in 1521. When Cortés first visited the Palace, he described it as having a surprising array of riches. The walls were made of marble, and the facade contained a carved shield of Mexico’s iconic eagle. With the snake in its claws. The building was modern, with sanitary facilities, fountains, gardens, and bedrooms with rich rabbit fur and feathers tapestries. In addition to being a royal residence for the rulers of the Aztec city, it was also a meeting place for the older tribe members. Here disputes and discussions would take place to ensure the wealth and happiness of their people.

Hernan Cortés

Sadly, after the invasion by the Spanish, Hernan Cortés seized the residence from the Aztecs. Cortés was so enamoured by the palace that he used it as his home. Passing it down to his son in later years. The Palace’s devastating fire in 1692 destroyed much of the original structure. Many of the original stones that could be recovered were used in the reconstruction efforts. However, the new palace was styled in the Baroque fashion of the time. It seemed that over time, every generation added its own touch to the building. And now, it looks more like a patchwork quilt of architectural ages.

History of Mexico Mural

Walking inside the National Palace, follow the signs for the ‘History of Mexico Murals.’ These can be found within the great courtyard, surrounded by Baroque arches. Walk up to the main stairwell, where you’ll immediately be struck by this immense masterpiece. The mural depicts the history of Mexico from the dawn of human existence through to the 1920s. Rivera started work on this mural in 1929, many years after his first mural project. The precision and confidence in his technical skills and expressive style are evident in this work of art. Rivera was decisive in using his art to communicate his ideologies about communism and the rejection of the colonizers. He wanted to bring the crimes of the past clearly into the minds of the people. To ensure these atrocities were never forgotten.

The main message of the mural surrounds the indigenous Mexican people’s struggles to preserve their culture, National identity and country against the brutal colonizers. Standing at the base of the stairwell, take a minute to appreciate the sheer grandeur of the entire piece. So much of the story is sad—a classic tale of good vs. evil. The goodly indigenous Mexicans had one of the most vibrant cultures. Yet, they were practically wiped out by the evil, invading Europeans.

If you squint and look at the entire piece, the bright colours and expressive shapes look powerful, hopeful and strong, just like the Mexican people. Despite the horrors of the past, the post-revolution population believed in the future of their country. Especially as it became an independent nation. And that their strength and perseverance would conquer evil and allow their great country to prosper.

North Wall 

Walk up the stairs to the landing in the center, and look up at the left side, or North Wall. This part of the mural depicts the indigenous Mexicans long before the arrival of the Spaniards. They are surrounded by the fantastical Mexican landscape all around them. The blue is almost heavenly —the large bright sunshine above casting all of them in celestial light. The Aztecs believed in the sun god, as seen in the all-seeing eyes painted onto the sun’s face. Just below the sun, you can also see an erupting volcano with Xiuhtecuhtli’s “the Lord of Fire” exploding from the mouth of the volcano. In the sky flies Quetzalcoatl, the Feathered Serpent deity and god of the wind and the rain.

The Valley of Mexico is spread along the horizon, with its amazing pyramids towering above the people. Standing in front of the pyramids are the Aztec leaders, guiding and looking after their citizens. In the left corner, you can see a small battle scene between two tribes. This violence was a common occurrence in any civilization. But the cultural costumes worn by the different tribes make this little vignette so interesting.

Farmers are tending to vivid corn crops, almost as bright as gold. Craftspeople in the lower right-hand side of the mural are busy weaving, making pottery, playing music, painting and writing on scrolls. This shows their modern civilization, full of technology, art and science! They were the farthest thing from “savages,” as the violent Spanish colonizers reported.

West Side, Main Wall 

We move from the north wall’s idyllic memories to the densely packed and violent images of the west wall. This is the mural straight ahead as you walk up the main stairs. It is the battle of the Mexican people against their oppressors. A story of hatred and war is woven into the fabric of Mexico’s history.

Lower Level Depictions

The lower part of the mural is riddled with images of Mexicans and Indians fighting against the heavily armoured Spanish and French cavalry. The beautiful and bright feathered costumes of the Aztec leaders crushed and fell under the feet of their enemies. Cortez can be seen in the middle of the painting, as he is the only mounted soldier with his face exposed. The rest of the attacker’s helmets are closed. But Rivera paints Cortez with his helmet raised, so his actions are not anonymous.

Cortez’s armies have modern weaponry making their defeat of the Aztecs a foregone conclusion. Despite being outgunned and outnumbered, the Aztecs fought valiantly against the Spanish on the right and left corners. All the while, the Aztecs are being watched over by a great golden eagle in the center. The eagle sits perched atop a cactus with a serpent in its mouth. The design of this symbol is rooted in the legend that the Aztec people would build their great city on the spot where they found an eagle eating a snake on top of a cactus. They called that place Tenochtitlan (Mexico City), and it was worth fighting for them.

Middle Depictions

In the middle of the mural, we see the horrors brought to Mexico by the Spaniards. Not only did they want to conquer the land, but they also wanted to abolish the Aztec religion. The Inquisition went about burning sacred books and religious imagery. You can see these fires burst out across the wall. Priests on the left-hand side can be seen forcefully converting the indigenous people to their new religion of Chrsitiniarity. The Spanish turned many natives into slaves, and these hard-working people were the creators of this “new world.”

Upper Arch Depictions

Under the five arches at the top of the wall are the various rulers of Mexico. Interesting to note is Rivera’s use of non-hierarchical representation. No one man is larger than the other. While some think it makes the mural more challenging to interpret or read, it is part of Rivera’s communist ideologies of equality.

Starting from the left, we see the French Rule and execution of Austrian Emperor Maximilian in 1867. Next to that, we see images of the Porfirian era. This era was coloured with a brutal dictatorial rule accomplished through consensus and repression. In the central arch, we see depictions of Independence and the Mexican Revolution. You can see a man with a mustache carrying a large red banner at the very top of the frame. This is revolutionary Emiliano Zapata, who was one of the leading men in the revolution. The red flag says “Tierra y Libertad,” which means “Land and Liberty.”

To the right, we see images from the Reform and Juarez eras. Benito Juarez was Mexico’s only Indigenous president and the founder of the new Mexican nation. Finally, on the far right, we have the invasion of Mexico by the US. Above the invading US army is the great eagle flying down to attack.

South Wall

The south wall to the left of the main stairwell depicts the future of the Mexican people. The imagery represents progress, prosperity and hopes for a better future. At the top of the mural is the image of Karl Marx holding his great Communist Manifesto on a large scroll. To the right of this is a man flying the Soviet flag. When the mural was painted, the Mexican people and Rivera himself had solid socialist tendencies. The Soviet flag can be seen throughout imagery from this era.

To the right of Karl is a scene of Mexican workers. They are being attacked and oppressed by police wearing large gas masks. This scene takes place in front of Mexico City’s skyline silhouette. While the other two murals are more fluid in their collage-like design, this mural is framed in harsh geometric metal beams. Inside these almost cage-looking rectangles are pictorial representations of what Rivera saw as negative social forces in high society. 

At the bottom of the painting is the image of a woman dressed in bright red. Look closely at her face to see if you can recognize the model. It is none other than his wife, Frida Kahlo. Frida holds a copy of the Marxist manifesto and is engaged in a political rally. Very similar to her real-life political activism. Above her is another similar-looking woman. This is Frida’s sister Cristina, with whom Rivera had an affair during his marriage to Frida.

Second Level

On the second level of the courtyard patio are 11 additional murals painted by Rivera. These are continuations of the history but highlight particular scenes that Rivera found to be important during the pre-Hispanic era. These murals were not finished, and it’s interesting to see them as works in progress captured in time.

Cárcamo de Dolores

There are several other spots in Mexico City to see if you are following in the footsteps of Diego Rivera. One location to visit that is home to two important spots is the great Bosque de Chapultepec or Chapultepec Park. The park is one of the largest city parks in the Western Hemisphere and spans over 1,600 acres! A dense and populated city needs fresh air, and this park acts as its “lungs,” with trees that replenish oxygen to the Valley of Mexico. The name Chapultepec stems from the Nahuatl word chapoltepēc, which means “at the grasshopper’s hill.” If you find yourself in Chapultepec Park, you can also visit the Cárcamo de Dolores. 

The Cárcamo was built in 1951 under engineers Eduardo Molina Arévalo and Guillermo Torres. The Cárcamo de Dolores (or Sump of Dolores) was a hydraulic structure that housed a giant water tank. From here, the city would control the levels in several other large water reservoirs. But, the space was given an artistic flair by Diego Rivera. 

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Tláloc, the God of Water

Once the new system was implemented, they set about creating this museum in honour of the water god Tláloc. Tláloc is the god of rain, water and earthly fertility. Walking up to the building, you can see the giant tiled fountain with the image of Tláloc lying down, spread over 100 feet wide. He lies with his legs laid splayed, decorated with brightly coloured stones mined from the natural resources of the Mexican landscape. Originally, the area where we now find the fountain was the entry point where the Lerma River water entered the city’s reservoir.

Water has long been both worshipped and yet highly problematic in Mexico City. After the Spanish conquest, they drained the precious life-giving rivers and lakes. Since then, the city has constantly been searching for accessible water. So people are continually making their prayers to Tláloc. In the hopes he can solve what even modern-day engineers still have not.

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Main Building

Inside the main building is where you can find Rivera’s murals, Water, Origin of Life. These murals pay tribute to the workers, engineers and architects who participated in the construction of the original Cárcamo water system. These 200 square meters of murals were meant to be underwater, making them the only underwater mural in the world. Today, the murals’ pools are empty, allowing the public to observe the artworks. Constant aquatic exposure resulted in the slow deterioration of these historical works, so the water was drained and diverted. A pipe organ has been installed to give the room the same atmosphere as it once had. The organ makes noises through the adjacent municipal pipes to make the room sound like a functional waterway.

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Panteón de Dolores

On the other side of the Avenue Bosques in Chapultepec Park is the great Panteón Civil de Dolores. This Pantheon, or cemetery, is the largest cemetery in Mexico. And in my opinion, this cemetery is one of the greatest in the world! Filled with some of the most incredibly elaborate and imaginative tombstones. The cemetery was built in 1897 on Juan Manuel Benfield’s ranch. Benfield founded the cemetery in honour of his wife, who had recently died in Veracruz. She couldn’t be buried in Veracruz as all cemeteries there were for Roman Catholics only, and they were practicing Anglicans. The cemetery grew and grew over the years, becoming home to some of the most illustrious dead of Mexico City. Today, the cemetery has over 700,000 tombs and is considered the most crowded cemetery in Latin America.

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They even have a special section of the cemetery called the ‘Rotonda de las Personas Ilustres‘ (Rotunda of Illustrious Persons). This area honours those who have exalted Mexico’s civic, national and human values. Originally it was named the Rotunda of Illustrious Men. But it was renamed by President Vicente Fox in 2003 as the cemetery also honours many famous women. The first person to be buried here was soldier Pedro Litechipia, who died fighting against the empire of Maximilian in 1876. 

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Diego Rivera’s Tomb

Included among the illustrious dead is Diego Rivera. Interestingly enough, Rivera had requested that he not be buried at all. Instead, he wanted to be cremated and his ashed comingled with those of his beloved Frida Kahlo. Frida’s urn can be found inside her beloved Casa Azul. Sadly, upon his death, his family overruled his decision and had this tomb designed to house his body. The vault was designed with pre-Hispanic patterns and symbols swirling around the tombstone. Emerging from the stone are the bright white marble arms and the death mask of Diego Rivera himself. As if the artist is merely asleep and is rising from the grave. Haunting and yet beautiful all at once.

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The Flower Vendor (Girl with Lilies)

On either side of the tomb are bouquets of white calla lilies carved in marble. So they may bloom for eternity. Rivera’s famous The Flower Vendor (Girl with Lilies) is one of Rivera’s most famous artworks. Although the lily is associated with funerals and death to Rivera, it symbolizes indigenous culture. It also references Mexico’s abundant flora and even a hint of sensuality, as the flower resembles a certain part of the female anatomy. Flower sellers also represent the poor working class. Who sold the beauty of the Mexican landscape to the wealthy upper class, which consumed it. For this reason, focusing on the flowers on his grave is even more important to his legacy.

Tomb Mosaic

Above the tomb, on a large stone marker, is a beautiful mosaic. It features the image of an older indigenous woman surrounded by lit candles. The scene appears dark as if she is here at night. She kneels on the ground, planting seeds with a woven basket in front of her. A symbol of how Rivera planted seeds in the minds and eyes of the Mexican people. Inspiring them for ages to come. On the opposite side of the mosaic is a burst of Rivera set into the stone. Below it is a large inscription dedicated to the life and impact of the great artist.

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Coyoacan and San Angel

You can visit many other places that are significant to Diego Rivera, located outside the city centre. Luckily, Uber makes seeing many of these destinations very straightforward. Two neighbouring areas worth visiting are the colourful suburb of Coyoacan and the quiet artistic streets of San Ángel.

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo

The rural hamlet, filled with cobblestone streets and bougainvillea-covered colonial homes of San Angel, was where Diego Rivera called home in his old age. While the Casa Azul was Frida’s palace, the Casa Estudio was Diego Rivera’s oasis. Here, you can learn more about Diego, the man, not just Diego, the artist. This was Rivera’s dream home. He had it custom designed by architect and friend Juan O’Gorman.

Juan O’Gorman

O’ Gorman studied functionalist construction under the swiss design of Le Corbusier. Gorman was enthusiastic about bringing this modernist style to Mexico City. A city he saw as being a hub for modern thinking and exquisite architecture. Diego and Frida’s studio house would be the first construction using functionalist architecture in Latin America. Functionalism was a style defined by buildings that should only express their use or function. They removed excess decoration and prized minimalism.

For Diego and Frida, this functionalist ideal represented their need for two separate studios. Functionally, they could not work together. Frida and Diego’s relationship was plagued with intensity, both good and bad. But when it was bad, it was very, very bad. They found the need to have two different spaces to work to focus on their craft without quarrelling with one another all day. And yet, the two buildings are connected by a large bridge on the top. It is a symbol of their love. That at the end of the day, they still found a way to come together and connect. 

The Architecture of the House/Studio

The two buildings were designed almost as polar opposites. Diego’s studio building is painted off-white and rust-red. Simple, natural colours. On the other hand, Frida’s studio is painted the same ethereal cobalt blue as her Casa Azul. Both studies feature almost floor-to-ceiling windows, giving the interior space an indoor/outdoor feeling. The houses are separated from the street by a perimeter fence. But instead of being made from wood or wrought iron, the fence is made of rows of tall cacti along the roadside. Giving it the most iconic appearance.

The couple lived here from 1934 to 1939. In 1939, they divorced, and Frida moved home to Casa Azul. Leaving Diego to live full-time, alone in the studio house. After their divorce, the couple actually got back together only 9-months later. But even after this reconciliation, Frida and Diego kept the studio house. Diego would continue to live there full-time until his death on November 24, 1957. Rivera died in his studio, and his body remained there as friends and family sat vigil inside to mourn the loss. After this, his body was moved to the Palacio de Bellas Artes for his state funeral. After his death, his daughter inherited the house. But she gifted it to the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes to be enjoyed by the public for years to come as a museum.

Diego’s Studio

Diego’s studio is filled with natural energy. The floor-to-ceiling windows allow sunshine to shine through and ignite the space. The studio museum still contains brushes and pigments, which Rivera used to make his murals. He is sitting on his easel like he is about to walk back into the room mid-painting. Dotting the walls are items from Rivera’s pre-hispanic arts and crafts collections. Books lined the shelves, which served as artistic inspirations and portraits of Diego’s many friends and fellow artists. It really felt like a space that was intimate and highly personal.

But filling the majority of the studio are these huge paper-mâché figures. These are called “Judases” and are life-sized papier-mâché dolls popular in Mexican folk art. These are usually made to be burnt as a part of the celebrations on the day before Easter. The figures are made in the image of Judas the Traitor or other unfavourable people. This could be anything from images of devils and demons or even politicians, criminals and disliked shopkeepers. They are then stuffed with fireworks and blown up on the street. Much to the enjoyment of the onlookers. But Rivera didn’t blow them up. Instead, he kept them as souvenirs of the local artisans. Although the simple craftsmen who made them might not see them as high art, Diego saw these as treasures to keep forever.

Plaza San Jacinto

Just a 5-minute drive from the museum/studio, make a stop in the Plaza San Jacinto. This beautiful park is a hub of activity on Saturday mornings. On the weekends, artisans of the San Angel neighbourhood descend on the park to display and sell their creations. Small groups of artists often sell throughout the week, but Saturdays are the most popular day. You’re guaranteed to find the marketplace bustling on those days.

Make your way to the plaza’s centre and look across from the elegant central fountain. There, you will see a bronze easel with the burst of Diego Rivera emblazoned into the cartouche. As Rivera was a resident of the San Angel for many years, local artists inspired by Rivera wanted to commemorate him for generations to come. There is something wonderful about Rivera’s face looking over at the artists in the square selling their works. Continuing his passion for supporting Mexican artists, even from the great beyond.

Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

Now let us head into the vibrant neighbourhood of Coyoacan. Our first stop is at the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This building is now a free cultural centre to enter and explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on an Izotitlán farm, a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow wild all over the property.

Just inside the entrance to the Casa is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can sit alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple. The house has existed here since 1780, occupied by various families. It’s no stretch to imagine that the previous owners would have welcomed the famous couple into their garden for a visit or a dinner party from time to time.

Casa Azul

La Casa Azul, or “the blue house,” located on Londres Street in Coyoacán, once belonged to Frida’s father, Guillermo Kahlo. It was here where she was born. She grew up inside these walls. It was where she suffered from illness but flourished as an artist. Eventually, Frida bought the house from her parents and lived with Diego throughout their marriage. They even got divorced and remarried, all within these blue walls. And ultimately, it was the place where she would pass away. It was her sanctuary but also her cage. She spent more years inside these walls than perhaps anywhere else in the world. As such, it is one of the most intimate looks into her life that you can experience.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at Frida and Diego’s private world. The house has sketches by both artists and pictures of the two as a couple. But the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art. They collected pre-Hispanic artifacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more which are still on display. Walking inside their home, you feel a deep connection with Frida and Diego. To learn more about Casa Azul, take my self-guided tour!

Frida Kahlo Park

Frida and Diego loved the outdoors. Diego often painted outside. The outdoors were an important part of their artistic life. In the centre of Coyoacan, you can make your way to Frida Kahlo Park. In the middle of the park, you’ll find two large bronze sculptures of Frida and Diego. Frida is dressed in her classic Tehuana outfit, gazing over at Diego. This park has a very structured layout, the bushes around it perfectly pruned into geometric shapes. Slightly resembling Aztec pyramids popping out in the background.

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Museo Anahuacalli

If you are travelling to Xochimilco, you should stop by the Museo Anahuacalli. Your ticket into the Casa Azul also covers your entry into this museum. The Museo Anahuacalli was another one of Diego Rivera’s homes. Diego and Frida were fierce nationalists who loved their home country and wanted to preserve its history. Diego and Frida dreamed of opening their own museum dedicated to these objects. Sadly, in their lifetime, this dream never came to fruition. But after Diego’s death, his daughter took up the project and created the Museo Anahuacalli. Architect Juan O’Gorman, who designed their studio, also designed this house.

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The house’s exterior was made using black volcanic stone from an old Mexico volcano. The texture is something truly unique. There are over 50,000 pre-Hispanic pieces inside the museum. Some of these Diego would collect while he and Frida would travel to ancient Aztec pyramids outside of Mexico City. Each one of them was a piece of Mexico’s heritage, a heritage that inspired the historical influences of Rivera’s artwork.

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Museo Dolores Olmedo

Also, near Xochimilco, stop at the Museo Dolores Olmedo Museum. The museum is located inside the grounds of an old 16th-century residence. In 1962, Dolores Olmedo bought the house. Dolores was a fierce collector of art as well as a lover of Mexican culture. It is no surprise to learn then that she was old friends with Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. She was also one of their most prolific collectors, and her gallery remains the largest private collection of their works. In 1994, her collection was transformed into the museum we now find today. Luckily, Dolores lived until 2002, so she could see this fantastic house converted into an art gallery for the public to enjoy.

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Olmedo & Rivera

Olmedo met Rivera when she was only 17 years old on a trip to Mexico City with her mother. They met while Rivera was working on his murals inside the Ministry of Education building. Inside the museum, you can see one of the portraits that Rivera painted of her. He made it in 1955 after their first meeting. As their friendship continued, Rivera continued to paint Olmedo and her children. They were so close, in fact, that Olmedo invited Rivera to spend time with her family in her home in Acapulco. Here, the painter made over 50 different paintings of sunsets from Olmedo’s front porch. Several of these paintings can be viewed inside the museum.

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Today you can explore gardens filled with exotic Mexican plants, magical peacocks and Xoloitzcuintles. Xoloitzcuintles are a rare dog breed that was once only thought it exists in mythical stories of the afterlife. But the breed is actually an ancient hairless Aztec dog. The museum also features a permanent exhibition of works by Russian-Mexican artist Angelina Beloff, Diego Rivera’s first wife.

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This brings us to the end of the Mexico City tour, walking in Diego Rivera’s footsteps. I hope you enjoyed your time with us and learned something new about the city along the way! Let me know in the comments what your favourite stop along the tour was!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Insider’s Guide to a Diego Rivera’s Life & Art in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.