Sitting down in your seats, you sip a traditional michelada, a crisp local beer smothered in chamoy sauce and dusted with spicy tajin. Paired with fresh chicharrones and popcorn, all also covered in Valentina sauce. As the match explodes before your eyes, you can almost feel the hard smack of the wrestler’s back as he gets flipped upside down. Pounded onto the all too hard-looking mat underfoot. Words you might once not have understood take on new meaning, and you begin to copy the cheers and roars of the crowd around you. Yelling in favour of your favourite characters and booing the villains that grace the stage. This is the world of Lucha Libre!

Table Of Contents

1. History
   • El Santo
2. Where to See Lucha Libre in Mexico City?
3. Group Tours Vs. Independent Visits
4. How to Get To Arena Mexico
5. How to Get Tickets for Lucha Libre at the Arena Mexico
   • Best Seats in the House
   • Freedome Arena Bar
6. What to Expect
7. Food & Drink
8. Souvenir Masks
9. The Matches
10. Is it all Real?
11. Tips for Attending Your First Lucha Libre

History

Lucha libre, which translates to “freestyle wrestling,” is a form of professional wrestling unique to Mexico. Its history dates back to the early 1930s when a former colonel of the revolution invited an American wrestler to come to Mexico. They set out to stage a series of exhibitions. The wrestling matches caught on like wildfire with the locals. And it wasn’t long before they would create their unique identity within the sport. 

La Maravilla Enmascarada

In 1934, La Maravilla Enmascarada, was intorduced to Mexico. This was American wrestler Mackey, who had previously wrestled but to little fanfare. On his return to Mexico, he wanted to introduce himself as a new persona. So Mackey donned a mask and took on a new name. The mystery of who the man under the mask was intrigued the audience, and he was an instant hit! And it wasn’t long before more wrestlers were also choosing to wear a mask. With a mask, you could be anyone or anything. It soon became a part of the sport that you had to be unmasked if you lost a match. 

Lucha Libre made a name for itself, unique from American wrestling with its colourful characters, high-flying acrobatics, and dramatic storylines. Lucha libre continued to evolve over the years, with new wrestlers and new styles emerging. Today, you’ll see that not every wrestler needs to wear a mask, but some prefer to do so for the flare it gives to their costume and appearance.

El Santo

You can’t really talk about Lucha Libre without mentioning El Santo. El Santo is one of the most iconic and legendary figures in the world of Lucha Libre. Rodolfo Guzmán Huerta, the man inside the mask, first came to the ring as “El Enmascarado de Plata” (The Man in The Silver Mask.) El Santo’s iconic outfit consisted of his striking silver mask and distinctive white and silver costume. El Santo became known throughout his career for his heroic persona, often portraying a character who fought for justice and defended the oppressed. Earning his new nickname, “El Santo,” or “the Saint.” Throughout his over four-decade-long career, El Santo was never unmasked. As he never lost a match. When he died he was even buried with the mask he wore his entire career.

Where to See Lucha Libre in Mexico City?

The Arena Mexico is the most famous venue for Lucha Libre in Mexico City. It’s located in Colonia Doctores, just east of the popular neighbourhood of Roma Norte. While there are also matches held inside the Arena Coliseo, this is a much smaller venue further outside of town. And since there are always multiple shows at Arena Mexico every week there’s no need to have to travel anywhere else.

Group Tours Vs. Independent Visits

You can make a trip to see a Lucha Libre match simply on your own, by purchasing your tickets independently or via a tour group. These tour groups are much more expensive than just buying the tickets on your own. But with the tour, you often get a much more layered experience. These tours often start hours before the show and feature everything from meet and greet with real wrestlers, mask-making workshops and general history presentations. Great to help newbies get acquainted with the sport.

But the best advantage of going with a group is you having someone with you to take care of all the logistics. This is the best choice if you’re a more cautious or new traveller. These organized tours cost anywhere from $55-100 USD. This is one of the tours we recommend.

But going on your own is really easier than you think. Plus it’s much less expensive and you can spend the money saved on treats and souvenirs from the match! Hopefully, if you want to go on your own, this guide will help you navigate your first-time experience.

How to Get To Arena Mexico

Since Arena Mexico is located in the heart of the city, getting there it is very convenient. If you are staying in Roma Norte, you can even just walk. But from the rest of the city, I recommend taking an Uber to and from. Ubers are cheap and safe, and there are lots of spots where cars can drop and pick you up. Even though there are lots of taxis around the Arena after the show, Ubers are always the most reliable and safe option.

If you’d prefer to take public transportation you can arrive and depart via the Cuauhtémoc station only 5-minutes from the Arena Mexico.

How to Get Tickets for Lucha Libre at the Arena Mexico

Tickets for Lucha Libre matches are usually available on the day of the event at the arena box office. However, purchasing tickets in advance is recommended to avoid long queues and ensuring a good seat. You can buy tickets online from Ticketmaster. Tickets range in price from $420 pesos to $180 pesos ($22 USD to $10.

Best Seats in the House

The best place to sit is close to the ring. If you want the best pictures, the seats directly opposite the ramp makes for the most dramatic compositions. But if you want to see the wrestlers close up, sitting beside the ramp is your best option! Honestly, the Arena isn’t huge, so no matter where you sit you’re bound to have a great time. But you might as well shell out a few extra dollars to get up close to the action. If you find yourself in the very front row, don’t be surprised if you become a part of the show itself!

Freedome Arena Bar

A new addition to Arena Mexico is tickets to the Freedom Bar. These tickets are located in small boxes around the stadium. These tickets claim to have the best view of the ring, but I prefer to be down on the ground. But they are more private, and you get more perspective on the entire ring. The tickets include unlimited buffet food, beer, soft drinks and non-alcoholic drinks during the show. You also get a free wrestler mask, and you might even have a guest wrestler greet you at your table. Some private bathrooms and waiters come to your table. The cost of these tickets is $999 pesos ($54 USD), but it’s a unique splurge for a very special experience. Remember: this does not include tips.

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What to Expect

When you arrive at Arena Mexico, you’ll have your ticket scanned and usually, there is a security officer who gives you a quick pat down. Once inside you’ll be greeted by one of the ushers, or “acomodaor,” wearing blue aprons. They will also take scan or look at your ticket and guide you to your seat. It’s wonderful to have this kind of service, especially as a newbie who doesn’t know the arena.

When you get to the row where your seat number is located, don’t be surprised if they usher asks you to sit at the end of the row. Instead of in the exact number on your ticket. This is just how they ensure people don’t have to keep getting up to let late comers in. Don’t worry if this happens. The rows are only about 6-8 seats long so the exact number really doesn’t change your view dramatically. But it confuses us the first time it happened, so good to know what to expect

After the usher brings you to your seats, you should give them a very small tip, or “propina.” Don’t feel like you’re getting ripped off as a tourist. This is very normal and even the locals do this. It’s just a nice way to give them a little something for their efforts. Whatever change you have will suffice, it’s more of a gesture of thanks than anything.

Food & Drink

Once you’ve located your seats, it’s time to grab something to eat. Many vendors move throughout the crowd during the matches, so you can purchase food and drinks without even leaving your seat. The selection is rather small but there’s everything you need for a traditional sports snack. The vendors going around the stadium usually have chips and popcorn. And be sure to ask for one of their little packets of Valentina hot sauce if you want to amp up the flavour. They also sell beers, “cervezas,” and sodas “refrescos.“

Food Stalls

If you’re looking for something a bit more substantial you can head back to the food stalls inside the lobby. Here the selection is a bit larger with things like sweets and candies, nachos, hot dogs and even fresh “tortas,” (sandwiches.) You can also find a little larger selection of beers and drinks.

Micheladas

If you’re looking for a true Mexican specialty, head to the Micheladas stand. A michelada is a Mexican drink that combines beer, lime juice, hot sauce and tomato juice. It is served in a cup rimmed with chamoy (spicy-sweet sauce made of pickled fruit) and tajin (spice mix made of chilli peppers, lime, and salt.) This combination of spicy, savoury and sweet is a staple of Mexican cuisine and a great thing to try here at the Lucha match. If you aren’t a fan of the tomato juice (as I am not), you can instead try a Chelada instead. Its the same ingredients, just without the tomato juice.

Souvenir Masks

Also for sale in the lobby are souvenirs from the match. Everything from replica masks of the favourite wrestlers to t-shirts and posters. The quality of these products is definitely high, but if you just want to buy a mask to dress up for the match, you can find many cheaper ones at the market. Or even for sale directly outside the Arena by street vendors. These won’t be perfect replicas of the ones the wrestlers wear, but they are just as fun if you aren’t looking for the real thing. I’ve found masks for as little as $5 and it makes getting into the spirit even easier!

The Matches

Lucha Libre matches are a high-energy spectacle with colourful masks, acrobatic moves, and exciting storylines. The matches are divided into rounds, each lasting for a few minutes. There are usually three rounds in total, with a break in between each round. During these breaks is when you’ll see the drama break out. With wrestlers taunting each other and lots of action from the sidelines. Lucha Libre is a family-friendly event, and you can expect to see people of all ages cheering and shouting for their favourite wrestlers. 

In almost every match, there will be the “técnicos,” or the good guys and the “rudos,” who are the evildoers. The rudos will often taunt the técnicos and are bound to be on the receiving end of “boos” from the audience. But in my opinion, the rudos often have the most amazing costumes, props and best entrances featuring fire and flames.

The luchadors must pin their opponents to the ground for about 10 seconds to win a match. Often you’ll hear the audience counting down before the pinned wrestler gets away just at the last second. Creating lots of dramatic cries from the crowd. Other times a luchador could win if the opponent is disqualified. This can happen if they use an illegal move or by enlisting help from another team member that wasn’t supposed to be in the match. There is always something afoot ontop of the exciting moves see in the ring.

Is it all Real?

Whether professional wrestling is “real” or not is something you often hear people asking when attending their first Lucha Libre event. While the storylines and outcome of the matches are pre-determined, the absolute athleticism you see during the shows is definitely REAL! Especially in Lucha Libre, the high-flying stunts they pull are phenomenal. They left my jaw on the floor multiple times. And even the “fake” hits they take from one other look like they could really hurt. You need to be in amazing shape to participate in these performances, which is a talent that is undoubtedly something to admire.

Tips for Attending Your First Lucha Libre

1. Remember to bring cash. You’ll need it to buy food and drinks. But don’t bring any more than you think you’ll need. About 600 pesos should be enough for two alcoholic drinks a person and some snacks.
2. Remember to tip your attendant!
3. Don’t bring valuables or expensive items, as pickpocketing can be a problem in crowded areas.
4. Leave your fancy camera at home. Phones are fine, so you’ll still be able to take lots of photos with them.
5. Arrive early to avoid traffic coming into the Arena. Plus, arriving early means you can get settled with food and drink, so you don’t miss a minute of the show!
6. You cannot bring in any outside food or drink so remember to leave water bottles at home.

Attending a Lucha Libre match in Mexico City is an unforgettable experience you don’t want to miss. This show is about drama, even if you’re not a sports fan. It’s about evil vs. good and long-held grudges being fought in front of your eyes. It’s one of my favourite things to do on a night in Mexico City, and I hope you try it yourself!

Happy Travels, Adventurers.

The post Uncover the Excitement of Lucha Libre: Your Ultimate Mexico City Guide for the Best Wrestling Experience first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. #1 Start with a Walk Around La Condesa
2. #2 Museo de Arte Popular
3. #3 Xochimilco
4. #4 Bosque de Chapultepec
5. #5 Lucha Libre
6. #6 Mercado Artesanías Ciudadela
7. #7 Casa Azul Frida Kahlo
8. #8 San Angel Arts Market
9. #9 Street Food
10. #10 Sundays on Paseo de Reforma

#1 Start with a Walk Around La Condesa

The first thing I recommend to any first-time traveller to Mexico City is to take a walk. This helps not only acclimatize you to the altitude, but also your neighbourhood. And my #1 recommendation for the best streets to comfortably and safely wander is in La Condesa. It can be a casual stroll or an in-depth guided tour. Start the day off right by meeting the friendly locals, sampling the food, and soaking up the exemplary historic architecture. And incredible green spaces. La Condesa has become somewhat of a tourist hot spot over the years. But as such, it’s really really accessible to foreigners. While still maintaining that amazing Mexico City vibe that absolutely permeates the entire city.

#2 Museo de Arte Popular

While many guides will put the Templo Mayor and Anthrolopgoy museum in their top museum spots, for me, it has got to be the Museo de Arte Popular. The Museo de Arte Popular (Museum of Popular Art) is a cultural treasure of great importance to the Mexican people. It showcases Mexico’s vibrant folk art traditions and celebrates its people’s creativity and ingenuity.

The museum holds an extensive collection of handmade crafts and folk art. This includes textiles, pottery, glassware, wood carvings, and more, providing a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of Mexico. It is a place to admire the beauty and skill of these works and serves as a center for preserving and promoting traditional Mexican arts and crafts. It is a place where visitor can come together to appreciate the unique cultural richness of Mexico. And learn about its history and traditions. 

While I also recommend the Templo Mayor and the Anthropology Museum, the vibrancy of this museum always excites me. These are objects made by everyday people that have lasted generations. And hold within them such deep symbolic value. Even in arts and crafts, you’ll learn all about the Aztec myths and gods the ancient Mexican people worshipped. And see how this history still finds its way into symbolism even today.

#3 Xochimilco

Xochimilco is a neighbourhood in Mexico City home to a system of canals and floating gardens known as the Xochimilco canals. This ancient waterway was once used for agriculture and transportation. But today serves as a popular tourist attraction and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Locals and tourists alike gather near the embarcaderos and rent these gorgeous, brightly coloured Trajineras, or small boats. Thes boats are ferried up and down the river. The atmosphere on the canals, even on a quiet afternoon, is infectious. Laughter and the sound of mariachi bands float across the water.

The canals offer a unique perspective into the way of life in Mexico in the past. These innovative chinampas were created by the Aztecs to grow crops in the middle of a lake. While on your journey, you can buy food and drinks from local street food vendors cooking up a storm in their own floating kitchens. There is also live music and craft merchants all along the river. Although it’s about a 45 minutes journey to get here, it is well worth the effort.

#4 Bosque de Chapultepec

There is no better place to spend a lively weekend with the locals than at the Bosque de Chapultepec or Chapultepec Park. The Bosque de Chapultepec (Chapultepec Forest) is one of the largest city parks in the world. Often referred to as the “lungs of Mexico City.” The park spans over 1,700 acres and is home to a diverse array of flora and fauna.

The Bosque de Chapultepec also has a rich cultural history, as it was once a royal retreat for Aztec emperors. And later served as the official residence of Mexican presidents. The Bosque de Chapultepec symbolizes the city’s past and present. And to me, this place provides a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of Mexico City. It is a place where people can connect with nature, learn about Mexican culture and history, and enjoy various recreational activities.

It’s also home to several museums, including the National Museum of Anthropology, the Museum of Modern Art, and the National History Museum. But I love just coming here and exploring. Take a swan boat out on the lake, eat some street snacks, and watch the locals enjoy their city.

#5 Lucha Libre

Watching Lucha Libre, Mexico’s colourful and dynamic form of professional wrestling is a cultural experience that is not to be missed in Mexico City. Lucha Libre is a deeply ingrained part of Mexican popular culture. And has been a part of the country’s entertainment scene for over 80 years. The high-flying, acrobatic moves, elaborate costumes, and larger-than-life personalities of the luchadors (wrestlers) make for a unique and exciting spectacle. One that you have to see for yourself.

Attending a Lucha Libre match in Mexico City is an opportunity to immerse oneself in Mexican culture’s vibrant and energetic spirit. We were hesitant at first about going. Not knowing if we would understand what was happening, but we were FANS immediately after the show’s start! Joining in on the chants and screaming “boos” at the villains of the match.

I remember after our first match feeling, my face was sore from smiling and singing and screaming. It was a blast; we’ve seen a match every time we’ve been back in the city. It’s part of our tradition, and it should be one of yours too. You can join a tour group if you feel more comfortable going as a group or buy the tickets from the Arena Mexoc website.

#6 Mercado Artesanías Ciudadela

There is nowhere I’m perhaps more excited to go to every time I’m in Mexico City than the Mercado Artesanías Ciudadad. This sprawling arts market is filled with hundreds of stalls selling an array of handmade goods, including textiles, pottery, jewelry, glassware, and more. Each stall reflects Mexico’s diverse cultural heritage, with artisans coming from around the country to sell their wares.

Shopping at the market is not only an opportunity to purchase unique and beautiful handmade goods but also a way to support the local artisans and their families. The prices here are extremely fair, so there is no need to haggle. But often, if you buy more than a few things, the owner will give you a discount. I find just wandering the aisle and filling my eyes with all the incredible creations a rewarding and fulfilling experience.

#7 Casa Azul Frida Kahlo

Casa Azul Frida Kahlo, also known as the Blue House, was the birthplace and lifelong home of the renowned Mexican artist Frida Kahlo. The house sits in one of my favourite Mexico City neighbourhoods, Coyoacan. Today the house has been restored to reflect what it would have looked like when Frida lived in it with her husband, Diego Rivera.

The bright blue house vividly represents Frida’s artistic vision. It is filled with Frida’s personal belongings, including her paintings, collectables and photographs. But most precious are the iconic traditional Mexican dresses that created Frida’s look. and made her a fashion icon.

Visiting Casa Azul is a journey into Frida’s world, providing a glimpse into her art, politics, and personal life. The museum is a cultural treasure that offers a window into Mexico’s past and the history of one of its most famous artists.

#8 San Angel Arts Market

The San Angel Art Market in Mexico City is the best time to make your way out to the San Angel hillside neighbourhood. While San Angel is still one of the most vibrant yet peaceful districts throughout the week in Mexico City, on Saturdays, the art markets set the squares alight. Artisans from all over the city arrive to set up their goods at dawn. Showcasing all different art forms, from paintings to sculptures and handmade items. Best of all, the art market is for more than just tourists. But also for the locals, the pieces feel really reflective of trendy Mexican styles. Furthermore, the market provides a platform for up-and-coming artists to showcase their work and gain exposure.

A market is also a place for the community to gather and engage with the local arts scene. There is often live music performances and demonstrations by artists taking place regularly. Inside the El Bazar Sábado building on the north side of the Plaza San Jacinto you’ll find a lively food court. Here, locals and tourists all come together to eat the day away. A relaxing spot to take a break from exploring the beautiful artworks outside.

#9 Street Food

Mexico City is (in my humble opinion) the best foodie location in the world. From Michelin Star fine dining to unpretentious family-run fondas serving home-style, traditional Mexican cuisine, there is truly something for everyone. But street food is where Mexico City really shines. And street food is an integral part of the city’s culture, reflecting the country’s rich culinary heritage and diverse population. Plus, at the low price points, it’s an accessible option for almost every budget.

There is something so exciting about spotting your favourite tamales vendor coming down the road on his bike, announcing his breakfast items for sale on his portable speaker. Street food in Mexico City is incredibly diverse. From traditional Mexican dishes like tacos al pastor, elote, tortas and huaraches, there is truly something for every diet. Even vegans can find special vegan food stalls around the city. And if you’re too timid to go for a full-on meal, there are always the snack and dessert vendors to dip your toe in the waters for freshly made Mexican Street food! 

#10 Sundays on Paseo de Reforma

The Paseo de la Reforma in Mexico City is more than just a roadway; it is a street filled with history and symbolism. The long, wide avenue was originally built in the 19th century to connect the city center to Chapultepec Park. The Paseo de la Reforma has since evolved into a cultural hub with iconic monuments and fantastical public spaces. But on most days, you miss many of these iconic spots since the road is packed with cars rushing about to get from one end of the city to another. But not on Sundays…

Sundays on the Paseo de Reforma feature car-free streets. The busy thoroughfare is closed to traffic, and the roadway is open only to bikes, scooters, runners and pedestrians. The once loud street, thick with car exhaust, is now filled with children playing and people chatting as they cruise along the path on their bikes. The sidewalks are replete with street food vendors and craftspeople selling their wares. It feels like a giant street party. But luckily, it happens every week, so you can almost always take part in your visit. There are many places to rent a bike or a scooter to make traversing the long roadway a breeze. And make sure to make frequent stopes along the way to take in the monuments and snacks you’ll spot along the way.

There are many more amazing things to see and do in Mexico City, but this is a great list to get you started. I feel like with this list, so many parts of what makes Mexico City such an incredible place to visit are truly highlighted. Perhaps these sights will pique your interest and start you off on the right food while planning your first trip to Mexico City.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post What are the Best Must-see Attractions in Mexico City? first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

My favourite places to shop when travelling are stores that have a history. A rich tapestry of time that makes everything they sell so important! Most of these businesses have been open for multiple generations and represent the best of that country. Things which people have come to love for years and years, so you know it’s the good stuff! It is like taking a piece of history home with you! So come with us now to discover my favourite Historic Shops and the souvenirs to buy which are so much more interesting for your friends and family than any beard oil or robe will ever be! Many of these shops have online stores so even if you’re not travelling there directly, you can still buy something really special for Christmas.

Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy | Florence, Italy

Stepping into the Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy is about as close to going back in time as you’ll get. The old shop in Florence prides itself on being the world’s oldest pharmacy, which opened in 1221! Back then, there was a small Dominican Order who lived in the connecting Church of Santa Maria Novella. Like many orders of monks, they had their own herb gardens where they grew a variety of medicinal plants. Using these plans, the monks created herbal concoctions and started selling them to the public. Their treatments actually worked for minor, everyday nuisances like stomach pains and headaches. Even today, many people still use herbal treatments to help with their body ailments. But also created from these herbs and fresh flowers were sensational (literally) perfumes.

The Perfumerie

In 1612 an official retail operation was opened where they began selling items aside from medicine. Everything from perfume to potpourri and other toiletries could be created from their ancient garden. Today, you can still purchase the very same perfumes as medieval Florentines wore back in 1621! The Acqua della Regina scent uses the same recipe the Dominican monks made in 1533 for Caterina de Medici. Caterina de Medici commissioned the perfume when she married Enrico di Valois and moved to France. The fresh citrus bouquet helped remind her of home when she was far away. And as we all know, smell is perhaps the best wall to recall a memory.

Angeli di Firenze is a more recent fragrance inspired by the Florentine people. The “Angels of Florence” were a group of young people who came to the aid of the entire city after a devastating flood in 1966. The banks of the Arno river broke, flooding the city. But the flooding was not just water, but thick destructive mud. Some areas were entrenched up to 22 feet deep. Museums, churches and other historic sites were on the brink of losing precious relics, but these young people worked 24 hours a day to ensure they saved all that needed to be rescued. The fragrance was created on the 40th anniversary of the flood and contains a bouquet of sweet, fruity notes. A polar opposite to those muddy smells the workers must have experienced. I wear this perfume anytime I want to feel like a hero!

Livraria Bertrand | Lisbon, Portugal

Inside the blue Azulejo tiled building in the centre of Lisbon, hides the oldest bookstore in the world! Opened in 1732, in the shopping district of Chiado, Livraria Bertrand welcomed people into their store to browse their incredible selection of books. Sadly, their original store was destroyed in 1755 during a devastating earthquake. They had to move out temporarily but were able to move back into their original location in 1773. It only took them 20 years to restore the store back to its former glory!

For over a hundred years, this place has been a favourite hangout of Portuguese writers. Walking inside, you feel like you’re entering an ancient cave. Look up to admire the ancient brick vaults and arched ceilings. Although most of the books they carry here are in Portuguese, they also have a small English section with popular titles. If you buy a book at the store, they will give you a sticker to place inside the book to show that you purchased it at the oldest bookstore in the world.

Even if you don’t want to buy a book, there is a cute little cafe at the back of the shop where you can sit inside and enjoy looking at all the pretty titles stacked on tall wooden shelves. Bookstores and libraries are some of the most peaceful places in the world and are the best place to come for a bit of downtime amid busy travel days.

Pfunds Molkerei | Dresden, Germany

I’ve been singing the praises of Dresden ever since my first visit! It was such a surprising town and the discovery of this place was just one of the many joyful stops we made along the way. Pfunds Molkieri, covered floor to ceiling in the most incredible tiles and Meissen porcelain, is the oldest dairy shop in East Germany. It was built back in 1879 and was the first place where Germans could buy high-quality, concentrated milk. Although the dairy was mostly destroyed in WWII, the family made sure to rebuild in the exact same fashion as the original. Now, visitors can come to see and taste the extraordinary delicacies inside Pfunds Molkieri. 

Guests can try different kinds of milk and cheeses from farms across Germany. Bringing home cheese as a gift for a loved one might prove pretty difficult. Not only does it requires refrigeration but most international countries will not allow you to bring in dairy products through customs. Luckily, Pfunds Molkieri also carries a wonderful selection of milk soaps made from that same famous herd of German cows. Milk soaps are gentle on the skin, a natural exfoliant, help prevent acne and are rich in nutrients! A wonderful stocking stuffer for your Christmas morning.

Maiasmokk | Tallinn, Estonia

Located in the historic quarter of Tallinn, Maiasmokk (which means ‘Sweet tooth‘) is the oldest café in Estonia. The regal cafe has been in operation since 1864. Inside, the interior feels so sumptuous. Like having a coffee in Versaille! The intricate ornate mirrored ceiling reflects the gorgeous old tiled floors, and rich wooden furnishings. The cafe is a true slice of history as it has remained unchanged for almost a century.

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While Maiasmokk serves all the coffees and teas you’d expect, its most popular item is marzipan. The cafe even features a museum dedicated to the history of marzipan. In the 19th century, this was where the Russian Imperial family came to get their marzipan. The almond-based sugary treat lasts forever, making it a great gift to bring home!

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Tsuen Tea | Uji, Japan

When you think of Japan, one of the first things that you might think of is a cup of green tea. And in Uji, Japan (just outside Kyoto), you can visit the world’s oldest tea shop, Tsuen Tea. Tsuen Tea opened here in 1160, although the building which you can visit today is a later construction from 1672.

The Tsuen family were descendants of a great samurai who was the guardian of the ancient Uji Bridge. The family lived adjacent to the bridge and opened a small tea shop next door where they would greet travellers. And serve them tea. Inside the Edo period shop, you can still see ceramic tea jars that are several hundred years old sitting along the shelves. Be sure to pay your respects to the old Tsuen samurai, whose wooden statues still stands proudly inside on display.

Legatoria Piazzesi | Venice, Italy

Tucked away in on the Campiello Feltrina San Marco is Venice‘s oldest paper shop; Legatoria Piazzesi. This old stationary shop has been making paper-based wonders since 1851. It is still in operation today and offers onsite book-binding services as well as hand-printed sheets of ornamented paper. The ornate handmade papers are so beautiful they could simply be placed in a frame as they look like a work of art. But even better, they can be used by intrepid journalists and scrapbookers.

The owners are pretty strict, and this is a place where you should only enter if you intend to buy something. For those who just prefer to browse, stick to peeking in the windows. They always have lovely displays of their bookbinding, and you can usually poke your head inside the door to at least check out the stock of papers overflowing from all the shelves. This isn’t done out of malice. Handmade paper is super delicate, and now that the shop is somewhat of a tourist destination, they don’t want any overcrowding. The store is tiny and their products can easily be damaged.

Il Marmoraro | Rome, Italy

All along Via Margutta you might spot unique stone signs to mark the various restaurants and shops along the street. These are all created inside Il Marmoraro. The owners have been here making custom-made signs for over 60 years! But the tradition of these stone signs dates back hundreds of years. In ancient Rome, legislative acts were written on bronze tablets and then displayed on Capitol Hill. These old tablets had a very distinct ancient roman style script. This became the defacto “font” used in Rome. It went to be inscribed on stone columns, gravestones and even street sights. And today, Il Marmoraro keeps up the tradition, still making signs using that ancient hand-carved typography.

The owner doesn’t speak much English but happily greets everyone who comes into the shop with a smile. For only €15, he will make you a custom sign in the same style as the ancient ones. You can have pretty much anything written upon as long as it’s not too many characters. If you arrive early, your personalized stone tablet will be ready for you before the end of day!

Caza das Vellas Loreto | Lisbon, Portugal

Happening upon the Caza das Vellas Loreto while in Lisbon was one of the highlights of my trip. My eyes were drawn to the curiously shaped vibrant candles in the window and I poked my head inside. The tiny shop feels like stepping into an old wardrobe. The entire place is only three meters wide! But stuffed within the glass cabinets lining the walls are colourful stacks of wax candles. Above the cashier at the back of the shop is a large golden set of numbers with the date 1789 written upon it. That is the date when the shop first opened. And they’ve been doing things almost the very same way ever since.

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In addition to the multitude of tapered candles, they also have seasonal designs to delight their customers. Their Christmas collection is a personal favourite and a wonderful way to add some unique flair to your dining table. And since the candles only cost a few euros, apiece it’s a great gift to buy for your friends and family.

À la Mère de Famille | Paris, France

The world’s oldest chocolate shop stands on the cusp of the famous Montmartre neighbourhood in Paris. A la Mère de Famille opened in 1761 by Pierre-Jean Bernard. The gold lettering outside the shop shines in the sunlight and beckons visitors from down the road. The stunning typography, against that beautiful bright green paint, has stood the test of time and still looks like a gem in the centre of the neighbourhood.

Today there are 12 other branches of the chocolate store across the city, but this is the only one you should seek! It is by far the most beautiful, with its antique shelves still stacked with vintage jars and lovely old brass fittings that have barely changed in 260 years. One of the best times to visit the shop is during the holidays when the chocolatiers develop unique sweet creations to delight and devour.

The Oldest Sweet Shop | Pateley Bridge, England

There are some places whose name says it all, and the Original Old Sweet Shop in Pateley Bridge, England, is one of those places. They are the official World Guinness record holder for the oldest continuously trading sweet shop, opened in 1827. Glass jars line the shelves, containing brightly coloured sweets with antique labels.

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In addition to holding this record, they lean into the concept of selling retro sweets that bring a wave of nostalgia for many older visitors or for the younger generations are a chance to sample a piece of history. Many of these sweets use the original recipes and are even created using old copper pans.

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Dulceria de Celaya | Mexico City, Mexico

Dulcería de Celaya is a tiny, old shop selling traditional Mexican candies and sweets. It opened in Mexico City in 1874. Walking into the shop, nothing has changed in over 100 years. When the family-run shop opened, the candy was made in a small, improvised factory using wooden shovels, copper saucepans and a minature oven. They could only produce so much daily, often only one candy tray. But the sweets were so popular that they would sell out daily. As the demand rose, they expanded their production to meet the city’s needs.

Even today, they produce candy in the same way it was made in the beginning, out of that tiny kitchen. The smell of fresh pineapples, strawberries, guavas, and coconut fills the air when you walk in the doors. It’s intoxicating. The candy is very well-priced, so even if you don’t recognize anything, just let the smells guide you and try whatever your eye is drawn to.

The post The Best 11 Historical Shops from All Over the World first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

To find the best of what this neighbourhood in Mexico City has to offer follow this walking tour through the streets of Roma Norte!

Table Of Contents

1. Location
2. History
3. Architecture
4. Where to Stay
5. What Sights to See
6. Where to Shop
7. Where to get the Best Coffee
8. Where to Eat
9. Where to Find the Best Desserts
10. Where to Get a Drink
11. Where to Find the Best Museums

Location

The neighbourhood of Roma Norte, also called Colonial Roma, is located south of the Paseo de la Reforma. And just below the Historic City Centre. Roma Norte’s central location makes it an ideal place for tourists. From here you can easily reach all the best spots in the city in no time!  The Colonial Roma is so large that the area has been divided into the North and South. Avenue Yucatan is the main street that separates Roma Norte and Roma Sud. Each area has developed their own distinctive character. There is also a third district called La Romita. Today, we are taking a tour of Roma Norte. Roma Norte is by far the most lively and largest neighbourhood in the area.

History

Roma was one of the first upper-class neighbourhoods built in Mexico City. And I don’t just mean built in the 20th century. In 1529, the area that now makes up Roma was granted to Hernán Cortés by the Spanish Crown. During the colonial period, the Counts of Miravalle continued to control the area. This brought in more and more wealthy Spainairds into the neighbourhood. And with them the need for lavish residences.

Eduardo Walter Orrin

But it wasn’t until the 19th century that we start to see the creation of the Roma we find today. And we have the strangest person to thank for the overall look and feel of the neighbourhood. And that is Englishman Eduardo Walter Orrin. Orrin made his wealth in the Circus of all places. The Orrin Circus arrived in Mexico City in 1872 after touring the US and South America.

The circus was a HUGE success in Latin America. It was so popular that Orrin was able to afford to build a permanent venue. The circus operated inside, what is now the Teatro Blanquita in the Centro Histórico, for over 26 years! When Eduardo Orrin finally closed the circus, he turned his eyes on real estate development. And there was no place more promising than the area just south of the historic centre…what we know today as Roma Norte!

The Creation of Roma

In the late 19th century, the wealthy elite of Mexico City were fleeing the crumbling Centro Histórico. The Centro Histórico was literally sinking into the ground and the old architecture was deteriorating rapidly. The aristocracy of Mexico City were looking for wide-open spaces in which to build their mansions. They dreamt of modern, colonial architecture. Orrin, whose circus operated in the historic centre, heard these cries. So Orrin went about purchasing land to the south.

The name “Roma” was also Orrin’s idea and came from Circo Romano (Roman Circus.) Although somewhat dissimilar to today’s circus, the Roman Circus was the inspiration for his own money-making enterprise. Even the streets around Roma were inspired by the circus. Many of the roads were named after the Mexican cities where the Orrin Circus had travelled. You’ll find Puebla, Oxaca, Colima, Córdoba, Morelia and more!

Porfirio Era

Porfirio Diaz and his government were also interested in aiding the creation of this upper-class neighbourhood. The president was enthralled with the European cities he visited on his travels. He longed to make Mexico City as impressive as those European cities he so badly envied. Diaz and his government provided rich and modern infrastructure to the new colonial. This included running water lines and sewers. Sewers were a truly modern convenience that, at the time, only was available in the Roma neighbourhood!

Roma soon became a European aristocratic enclave. Inspired by the elegant boulevards of Paris, the street in Roma were widened. And many of the main streets were installed with double rows of trees. Medians were built in the centre of the roads to provide relaxing pedestrian walkways. In the 1940s and 1950s, the area drew in the best of the best of Mexico City. Artists, businessmen and politicians arrived in style. Famous chilangos such as Álvaro Obregón, David Alfaro Siqueiros and former president Mexico Luis Echeverría all found themselves living within these “walls”. 

The Great Downfall of Roma

But in the 1950s, after WWII, the city began instituting lower rent regulations in these neighbourhoods. This act brought in more lower-class residents. The wealthier class railed against these newcomers, and many started to leave the area. More exclusive and luxurious areas like Polanco began to pop up. Drawing the remainder of the upper class out of Roma for good.

In addition to the new residents, taller buildings began to pop up around the colonial mansion. “Ruining” the look of the peaceful “town,” causing a further exodus. But the tall buildings weren’t just an eyesore; they were unknowing starting to disturb the ground below them.

This all came to a head on September 19th, 1985, at seven in the morning. An earthquake with a magnitude of 8.0 hit Mexico City. Thousands of buildings were levelled, and over 10,000 people lost their life. In Roma alone, 472 buildings were partially or entirely collapsed. The neighbourhood fell into complete disrepair. The population declined from 95,000 inhabitants in 1970 to 35,000 in 1995.

Reconstruction efforts were slow in these lower-class neighbourhoods. Regulations were put into place that no new apartment buildings could be constructed or older constructions adapted. This was to ensure the area remained intact until it could be repaired. But, by happy accident, this ended up preserving the remaining historic buildings for future residents and travellers.

The Renaissance of Roma

In the last 10 years, the area has started to slowly become more and more gentrified. We are witnessing the rebirth and renaissance of Colonial Roma. Low rents and beautiful architecture brought the hipsters who have started to transform the streets once more. Today the area is home to some of the cities trendiest cafes, incredible street art, awe-inducing pastries, curated cocktails and top-class restaurants.

Architecture

Porfirian Art Deco

There are two main identifiable architecture styles in Roma; Porfirian Art Deco and Colonial Revival Style. The iconic architecture of Roma is marked by the fact that the new residents rejected the traditional Mexcian Baroque architecture found in the historic centre. That iconic red tezontle stone was replaced with wrought iron, crucial for highlighting the Art Deco elements.

French and Italian influences were also incorporated with Gothic and Moorish designs. Today, this combination of design styles is called “Porfirian architecture,” named after President Porfirio Diaz. Traditional Mexican brick and ceramics were replaced with modern metal and glass. Houses in this style were constructed up until 1910. 

Colonial Revival Style

After the Mexican Revolution (1910-1920), the houses and buildings took on a Neo-Colonial or Colonial Revival Style. The era after the Revolution served as the antithesis to the Porfirian. The new President Venustiano Carranza‘s government even gave out federal tax exemptions to those who built houses in the colonial-revival style. These neo-colonial houses displayed a sense of nationalism and featured plateresque elements, pinnacles and mixtilinear arches. Architects brought back traditional materials such as tezontle, cantera and Talavera tiles. As we walk along the streets, see if you can spot the various styles as we go!

Where to Stay

If you’d like to stay in Roma Norte, there are many boutique hotel options for you to explore. It might seem easy to use services like Airbnb as there are tons of low-cost options. But Airbnb has continued to cause rent inflation and rental shortages for locals. Everything we love about the area is on the verge of disappearing. Roma could easily turn into a tourist-only sector if this continues.

On the other hand, hotels create hundreds of jobs for the locals who live here. And in Roma Norte, they are some of the most beautiful hotels anywhere in the world! Many also have kitchens and family-style rooms to serve larger groups. So definitely give them a look before you go straight to Airbnb. In the end, if Airbnb is more budget-friendly for you, I totally get it. Just be sure to do your best to give as much of your time and money into the neighbourhood. To ensure you are continuing to support the hyper-local community.

Stanza $

Stanza is a great budget option just to the east of Roma Norte. It is located on the edge of the urban Pushkin Park. Despite the low price, the hotel has a great vibe and is located in a safe and quiet area. For the best rooms ask for one facing the park. The rooms are a little dated but clean and well-maintained. Perfect for those on a budget!

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Ignacia $$$

Ignacia Guest House is truly one of the best secrets hidden in Roma Norte. Under the purple blossoms of the Jacaranda tree lining the streets, you will be welcomed home. The house was originally an old 20th-century mansion that has been transformed into just six elegant suites. Since there are so few rooms, everyone who stays here feels like family.

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Each suite is designed differently, blending history and Mexican artisan tradition with contemporary design. In fact, Ignacia Guest House has been internationally acclaimed for its interior design, architecture, and restoration. During the day, guests can abandon their daily routine and enjoy the historical details, gardens, and spaces. They can have breakfast at the communal tables or in the garden under an orange tree in the morning. Book well in advance as the rooms are highly coveted by anyone in the know who visits Mexico City.

La Valise $$$

La Valise feels like the epitome of Mexico City living. It is a blend of luxury, comfort, style and relaxation. A little slice of heaven on the streets of La Roma. Located inside a 1920’s French-style townhouse, there are only three suites, each located on a different floor of the building. So you really feel like you have the place to yourself! Like you’re just a neighbourhood resident. Each room is uniquely decorated with Mexican antiques and one-of-a-kind interior decor. A splurge but a well-worth splurge!

What Sights to See

Plaza Río de Janeiro

One of the best places to enjoy a morning coffee and pastry is inside the stunning Plaza Río de Janeiro. Plaza Río de Janeiro (or Rio de Janeiro Square) was originally named Plaza Roma but it was renamed in 1922. Mexico was invited to attend the Brazilian centenary celebration in 1922 and wanted to pay tribute to their brotherly city. So they decided instead of building an entirely new park, they would just rename this one for them.

The columns of cacti that line the park’s edge create these wonderful architectural elements created out of the natural environment. The park’s pathways swirl and curl around the central parkette. Creating this almost mesmerizing and yet peaceful atmosphere.

Michelangelo’s David

One of the park’s most interesting features is the replica statue of Michelangelo‘s David. It stands in the centre of the park, looking over the central fountain. One might wonder why there is an Italian statue smack dab in the centre of the park dedicated to Brazil. In truth, there is no connection between the two. Simply, the city architects of the time were on a quest to turn Mexican parks into European squares. Going so far as creating these exact replicas. We will see more and more along the rest of our tour so keep an eye out!

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Edificio Rio de Janeiro

On either side of the park, you’ll find some incredible examples of old colonial and art deco mansions. Their stone and wrought iron Juliet balconies looking out towards the park are draped in their own set of greenery. The most important house surrounding the park is the Edificio Rio de Janeiro. It is found on the east side of the park. Easily identifiable by the large green awning and art deco lettering that marks its entrance. While the building is today called ‘Edificio Rio de Janeiro’ years ago, the house went by a very different name.

La Casa de las Brujas  

While the lower, street-level exterior is covered in wrought iron and art deco elements, these were added in the 1930s. The original castle-inspired red-brick building was built in 1908. The house was called the La Casa de las Brujas (The Witch’s House). It was nicknamed as such due to the pointed tower located in the corner of the building. It was thought to perfectly resemble a pointed witch’s hat. But the witch symbolism doesn’t stop there! Many people thought that the windows below the “hat” resembled a human face. The (now) bricked up ovals were the yes, the lintel was the nose and the pointed balcony the mouth. To get the effect, you need to look at the house from the northwest corner. And trust me, it’s hard to miss!

Rumours began to spread that only a witch could have devised such a creation. Stories say her name was La Pachita. And she would watch people coming about their business in the park from her windows. Perhaps looking for victims or buyers of her next spell. But sadly, the truth is much more boring. The house was designed by architect Enrique Sánchez Sedeño. He was working under the Porfiriato and was influenced by European designs. He drew on elements from Gothic architecture and Viennese-style windows to create the house we see today.

Iglesia de la Sagrada Familia

On Orizaba street, you’ll find the Iglesia de la Sagrada Familia. This church sits on the corner of Puebla street. The exterior of the church is awe-inspiring, filled with rich neo-romanesque decorations. This was the first church in Colonial Roma in 1910. One of my favourite aspects of the church is the neo-Gothic rose window above the entrance. The window is surrounded by ornate stone carvings of palm leaves. The stunning Italian-made stained glass windows are also filled with organic designs of plants and flowers. As the entirety of Roma feels like a living garden, the church fits right into that blooming environment.

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Casa Universitaria del Libro UNAM

Kiddie corner to the church is the Casa Universitaria del Libro UNAM, another iconic building from the history of Roma. It was built in 1920 and originally designed as an elegant residence for Joaquín Baranda MacGregor, a preeminent politician. The mansion was created by the same designer as the church. He chose for this house the art deco style so popular at the time. Today the house is iconic for its green wrought iron scalloped gates and bright green shutters. The building is a venue for various academic activities and book publications from the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México.

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If you have the chance to pop your head inside, definitely take advantage of that opportunity! The entrance features a large irregular hexagonal hall, with a central staircase leading up to a great stained glass. The stained glass features the church of San Francisco Javier in Tepotzotlan, one of the most beautiful churches in Mexico.

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Fuente de Cibeles

In the center of this large roundabout along Plaza Villa de Madrid is a mammoth circular plaza featuring a dramatic fountain. The Fuente de Cibeles made a replica of the original fountain of the same name found in Madrid. The city to which the plaza is also named. The community around the plaza were primarily residents originally from Spain. They wanted to bring something to Mexico City that represented their homeland. It was designed as a symbol to link both cities in their shared brotherhood. 

The Goddess Cybele

The fountain features the goddesses Cibele. She is the mistress of wild nature, sitting in her bronze chariot. Cibele is pulled by her companions, her two pet lions. They are a male and female, representing fertility. Cibele also is the godess of protection, also symbolized in the fearsome lions. She carries an oversized key in her hand, which indicates her power over earth. In the other hand, she carries a sceptre, a symbol of her power over the seasons.

Fittingly, as Cibele represents the seasons, she is surrounded in Springtime by Mexico City’s most impressive seasonal features; the Jacaranda trees. The best time of to see the Jacaranda trees is during later March and early April. This is when they are in full bloom and create a halo of purple blossoms all around the plaza. The plaza is surrounded by some very hip cafes and restaurants. It is a great place to return to while away a lazy afternoon.

Avenida Álvaro Obregón

Many people refer to Avenida Álvaro Obregón as the “main street” in Roma Norte. The best way to explore this street is to step into the pedestrian median. Walking between the two lanes of traffic. The design of the street was meant to replicate French boulevards, which also featured central medians.

Along the median, you can stop and sit on one of the many benches. Take a moment to relax under the trees or study the sculptures found along the way. The central walkway is home to bustling art and an antique market which pops up on the weekends.

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Remember Michalengo’s David we saw before? Well, the sculptures along this street are also replicas of famous Italian works of art. They feature characters from Greek and Roman mythology. There are twelve sculptures in total. The fountains include copies of Mirón‘s Discobolus, Michelangelo‘s Bacchus and the Venus de Milo.

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Edificio Balmori

Edificio Balmori / Balmori Building was built in 1922 and later renovated in 1991 to restore the damage from the 1985 earthquake. The building was designed to feature an eclectic combination of historical styles. The new Colonial Roma aimed to imitate European architecture. But they went about it in their own unique ways. This resulted in the amalgamations of style we see today. Study the building for long enough and you can spot; classical, art nouveau, belle epoque, and even Art Deco decorations.

Plaza Luis Cabrera

The delightful Plaza Luis Cabrera parkette is named after politician Luis Cabrera. Cabrera was known for speaking out against the government of Álvaro Obregón. He fought to protect the rights of the lower class. The square was designed to mirror Plaza Rio de Janeiro.

Beat Writers in Roma

The park sits on the edge of Orizaba and Zacatecas Street, a popular area in the 1950s for American writers. Authors like Jack Kerouac, William Burroughs and Allen Ginsberg made their pilgrimage to CDMX. Some of the writers were fleeing America for what they saw as a more romanticized, foreign land. Others (Burroughs) were literally fleeing drug possession charges. Either way, they saw Mexico City as somewhere they could indulge in their vices. In the 1950s, Roma was on the decline. These ex-pats could get away living in robust colonial mansions, drinking and eating all day for very little money.

Famously, Kerouac wrote many stories of his adventures using peyote. He and Burroughs would take it together and lie in the grass in the Plaza Luis Cabrera. Regaling each other of what they saw in their hallucinations. But Roma wasn’t all champagne and roses for these writers. William Burroughs lived just off Avenida Álvaro Obregón (where we stopped for tacos). It was here in 1951 that, after one too many drinks, Burroughs’s life would change forever. He and his wife were playing with his pistol when he accidentally shot her in the head. She died on the spot. Despite being accidental, Burroughs was convicted to a two-year suspended sentence. But the trauma of the incident spurred him on to become a better writer. And perhaps the reason he is so prolific today.

Huerto Roma Verde

Continuing east along Coahuila, walk until you reach the large intersection at Avenue Yucatan.. Across the street, on the east side, you will be able to spot a bright blue column. This giant structure is made of old water jugs that form the monumental entrance to the Huerto Roma Verde. Huerto Roma Verde is a cultural centre made from recovered property once destroyed by the 1985 earthquake. The land was abandoned for 27 years and used as a dumping ground. But Paco Ayala, who initiated the project, saw the 8,000 square feet as an opportunity. He saw the space as a place for regrowth and environmental education through art.

The self-managed community found inside these walls was created by grassroots environmental activists. It began as a small shared vegetable garden. Where residents who lived in small apartments without outdoor space could come and grow their own fresh food. From there, it grew to have a storage tower to collect rainwater, a recycling centre for solid waste and even several farm animals! Their aim is to focus on sustainability and promote the development of communities that are integrated into their local environments.

Much of the space is designed to be an urban garden with mind-bending art sculptures created within the living environment. While you can wander the space and just appreciate the artworks, you can also stop into the various pop-up businesses. They sell everything from organic cosmetics, vegan desserts and fresh coffee. There is also a small amphitheatre that frequently hosts musical performances. So be sure to poke your head around to see what you can find!

Ecoducto Río Piedad 

It might sound strange to send visitors to a highway as a sight to see in Mexico City but there is something extraordinary about this particular part of the Mexico City roadway. Walking halfway across the large overpass, stop in the middle of the road. Here you’ll see a long, plant-incrusted walkway called the Ecoducto Río Piedad.

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A Living Purifier

If you’ve ever travelled to New York, you’ll have heard of the high-line. A 1.45-mile-long elevated green park created on a former New York Central Railroad. Well, this is the same kind of concept here in Mexico City. This pedestrian path is surrounded on both sides by trees and aquatic plants. You’ll see people out for a run or walking their dogs. All the while meandering along atop one of the busiest highways in the city. The entire path extends from Chilpancingo metro to Monterrey Avenue with over 4,800 square meters of vegetation dotted across the path.

But the Ecoducto isn’t just a pretty pathway; it has an essential purpose. This is a recovered public space, with a system that cleans the polluted water out of the Piedad River. The water is piped in, and the living ecosystem atop the cement is fed by the water and purifies it in the process. The entire system captures 50 tons of carbon per year. And pumps out about 1% of the drainage water in Mexico City. While that might not seem like a lot, it is a step in the right direction. Hopefully, in the future, they will be able to create more of these beautiful systems that serve the environment and the community.

Mercado Medellin

Mercado Medellín, or Medellin Market, is my favourite farmer’s market in all of Mexico City. Not only is the marketplace large enough to feature everything you’d want in one place, it somehow still retains that friendly neighbourhood atmosphere. The market never feels too crowded and definitely not like it’s only there for the tourists. Shopping here makes you feel like a local and allows you to experience an authentic Mexican market.

The Mercado Medellín is easily identifiable by its red, green and yellow geometric painted exterior. Lookout on one side for a huge, decorated multicolour mural. This marketplace has stood here for over 150 years. When the market was first established, it was in the centre of an immigrant community in Mexico City. Colombians, Cubans, Brazilian, Venezuelans and even Jewish immigrants all found themselves in the middle of the city in a neighbourhood now called Roma Sur.

The immigrants would import food and goods from their home country to sell here in their new home in Mexico City. Up until the earthquake of 1985, Jewish Mexicans owned and operated the market. But after the quake, its ownership passed hands over to the Cubans, therein earning the market its nickname; “Little Havana.”

The entire marketplace is now home to over 500 different stalls. While you can have a blast just wandering around on your own, check out our complete guided tour if you want to know the best shops to visit! And what you NEED to buy. 

Tepeji Street

If you are a fan of cinema, you should consider heading down to Tepeji street where you’ll find #22 Tepeji. This unassuming street is home to the exterior shooting location of the house featured in the award-winning film ‘Roma‘ by Alfonso Cuaron. In addition to this famous sight, if you look right across the street, you’ll see the real-life childhood home of the director. A plaque at #22 Tepeji commemorates this house as the film’s shooting location.

Roma and Mexico City in 1970

The film ‘Roma‘ is a must-watch for anyone visiting Mexico City. It follows the life of a live-in Mixteco housekeeper of a middle-class family. The Mixtecos, are the indigenous peoples of Mexico inhabiting the region known as La Mixteca. It is Cuarón’s semi-autobiographical take on life in the Colonia Roma in the 1970s. The film’s backdrop portrays the tensions over the land that is Colonia Roma. It shows student protestors fighting for the democratization of education. These freedom fighters were also asking for control of the university budget to be handed over to the students and teachers. They wanted political freedom for workers and peasants and quality education for everyone! They also fought for greater cultural diversity but sadly, their efforts resulted in the Corpus Christi Massacre of 1971. Nearly 120 protesters were killed, among them a fourteen-year-old boy. A sad but harsh reality of Mexico City’s history.

Where to Shop

Bazar El Oro

On Saturdays and Sundays, the Bazar El Oro pops up on the corner of El Oro and Colima street. Just down the road from the Fuente de Cibeles. It’s a wonderful and eclectic neighbourhood market filled with shops set up under brightly coloured tarps. Everything from traditional quesadillas to clothing, accessories, music, and coffee is on-sale here!

El Parián 

Just past Jalapa Street, stop just inside El Parián, the art-nouveau arcade. This incredible colonial building features eye-catching art-nouveau-style windows. Framing the windows are incredibly detailed stoned carvings with charming characters encircling the building.

Stepping inside, you’ll be able to admire the newly renovated covered shopping arcade. Shops line either side of the passageway. The interior is drenched in light, thanks to the glass ceiling above your head. The new arcade features a fantastical tiled floor, art deco-style decorations and a wash of greenery. It makes you feel like shopping inside a botanical garden!

Librería Ático

A few doors down from El Parián, you’ll come to a small store piled high are thousands of books. Librería Ático is one of those bookstores that feels lived in, in the best way possible. There is a combination of cheap, used books and antique volumes over 100 years old. While you might not find a huge selection of English-language books here, I love perusing the vintage collections. I always search out vintage coffee table books filled with pictures. They make for great conversation pieces. And you can use them to help study your Spanish!

Cafebrería El Péndulo Roma

If you prefer shopping for newer books, you must make your way over to Cafebrería El Péndulo Roma. Cafebrería El Péndulo is a bookstore chain, found across Mexico City. But each store has its own unique personality. Standing three storeys tall when you walk inside, look up to see all the bookshelves towering over you. It almost feels like entering the M.C Escher version of a bookstore. Péndulo always carries a wide selection of English language books. Real plants are dotted around the shop, bringing life into every corner you step inside.

HAPPENING

HAPPENING Roma Norte is one of my absolute favourite stores in Roma Norte. I come here all the time to find super unique, chic and modern gifts and clothing. One of my favourite things to bring back from trips is beautiful art prints and this store has some of the best. They don’t feel touristy at all but present gorgeous views of my favourite parts of Mexico City. Their selection of hand-made ceramics is also incredible and so aesthetically beautiful. If you’re looking for a really beautiful gift to bring home that feels like it imbues the energy of Mexico City this is the place to come to get it!

Vintage Hoe

One of the issues I find when visiting Vintage Stores in Mexico City is that the most popular ones focus too heavily on American Fashion. And while I think that’s wonderful for the locals, who see that as something unique, I’m looking for more of a local focus on vintage. And luckily for me, I found that inside Vintage Hoe. Although they still carry lots of American Brands, I find the vibes here to be genuinely representative of Mexico City. Walking inside the door, the well-curated, colourful clothing racks feel like entering a boutique clothing store rather than a vintage shop. In addition to clothing, they also have an incredible collection of accessories that are the perfect addition to lift any simplistic outfit.

Roma Records

If you’re a music of vinyl head, you must check out Roma Records. You’ll recognize this place from down the street by the hundreds of music stickers plastered over the front of the store, creating this incredible patchwork collage of musical taste. The store is small and a touch overpriced, but their curation is one of the reasons buying records here feels really special. Visiting record stores in a new city is always a great way to see what is new or popular in town. When I came in, I first saw a rare Placebo vinyl, and I was immediately excited to flip through the rest of their collection. Definitely stop in here if you’re in town.

Librería La Moraleja

Hiding away inside the charming antique glass windows of Librería La Moraleja are some of the most precious books in the city. Librería La Moraleja specializes in rare printings and modern but independent publishers. This book store is a great place to come to support local writers and publishers, and they really feature some gorgeous cover art that you’ll be proud to feature on your shelf. If you don’t read much Spanish but want to support the store, they frequently have a great selection of art books, postcards and prints that you can still buy to help treasure trove stores like this stay in business!

Tienda Trama

Further east along Coahuila Street is the joyful interiors of Tienda Trama. This shop is cooperative, meaning that everything you find here is made by a series of different local craftspeople and designers. So even if a smaller producer couldn’t afford to open their own shop, they can still sell their products direct to the customers. You can find everything from embroideries, ceramics, hand-made contemporary arts, kids’ clothes, and beautiful jewelry. All locally made and giving back to the community.

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I’m obsessed with buying mugs everywhere I travel. They feel like the perfect “souvenir” as it’s something I use every day. Pulling a mug out of the cabinet makes me so happy as I remember the travels I took to find it. A mug with one of their custom coffee blends makes the best gift to bring home! It has local flare without feeling too much like a cliche souvenir.

Where to get the Best Coffee

Le Babüin

The best place to start the day is with a good cup of coffee. Head to the southernmost part of the neighbourhood to Le Babüin cafe. This adorable coffee shop, named after the baboon in their logo, is a perfect slice of morning cheer. The staff are so friendly, and the caffeine that drips out of the espresso machines is first class. The sign above their door translates into the quote, “Everyone should believe in something. I think I’ll have another coffee.” Love it.

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Qūentin Café

The first time I went to Qūentin Café was early morning. But despite the sun barely rising above the horizon, the doorway was filled with people chatting to each other in such joyful voices; I thought a party was going on! Everyone seemed to know each other and were saying their morning greetings, dogs in tow, and it seemed like the most friendly atmosphere. But in addition to this, they have some of the best cappuccinos in the entire city!

Cardinal Casa de Café

Cardinal is one of the more popular chains in Mexico City that still feels like an independent coffee shop! Their baristas are friendly and know how to make the perfect cup of coffee. My favourite is their Cardinal cortado which mixes equal amounts of expresso and warm milk. It’s the ideal wake-me-up drink to get your day started right in the morning. This location is right on the corner of a local street, and the people-watching opportunities here are fantastic!

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Forte

Forte Coffee Shop has the most modern, historical and industrial vibe, all combined together. Their coffee bar is located in the center of the room, where everyone huddles together in the morning, chatting and drinking their early sunrise brew. In addition to gorgeous coffee, they also have homebaked goods, including mouth-watering pastries and some of the best homemade sourdough bread! This place is known for its incredible music selection, and I love coming here to just sit and listen to the tunes while I write in my diary.

Cucurucho Roma

Cucurucho Roma is a newer coffee shop that opened up in the southern part of the neighbourhood. But it has quickly become one of the hippest places in town! One of the reasons that drew me into this place was the charming and imaginative illustrations plastered all over the walls! These adorable characters feel like they imbue the personalities of the owners and visitors alike. They have some unique coffee blends, like their Horchata con espresso, that are lovely options for those who don’t like pure espresso.

Farmacia Internacional

Farmacia Internacional is one of those coffee shops almost hidden inside a sunken interior that once served as an actual pharmacy. Much of the original interior remains, like the old painted brick and antique tiled floor. It’s such a cool location with great coffee, and I love that it feels like a slice of preserved architectural history.

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Where to Eat

Panadería Rosetta

There is no better place to start your morning in Roma Norte than at Panadería Rosetta. Panadería Rosetta is a café that combines the best of French and European traditions with Mexican ones. The café offers a daily selection of baked goods. So there is always something extra special to try depending on what day you come by. They offer both sweet and savoury bread and sandwiches, cakes, muffins and more! Everything hidden away in their little glass cases is to die for. Their baked good is so delicious that this bakery delivers their goods to dozens of cafes around town. But I like coming right to the source!

Puebla Street Food

Puebla Street is famous for being packed with street vendors. Here is my quick guide on how to sample them safely:

• Choose freshly squeezed juice over agua frescas
• Eat in the morning to ensure food hasn’t been sitting out all day.
• Always eat food that you can see is being freshly cooked.
• Eat from vendors where the chef doesn’t handle the money or wears gloves when touching it.
• Avoid uncooked vegetables and fruit that may have been washed in unfiltered water
• Choose the stands with a line – a good sign they are reputable and the food is turned over quickly.
• Sanitize your hands before eating
• Avoid salsas and crema at street food stalls. It’s hard to tell if it has been left out in the sun without refrigeration.

Orinoco

If you were hesitant to try the street tacos, the famous Orinoco Taco is the perfect place to grab lunch. This is one of the most popular taco shops in Roma Norte. Best known for their famous trompo or taco al pastor. Taco al pastor or “shepherd style” tacos are made from spit-grilled pork. The dish was created after Lebanese immigrants introduced shawarma to Mexicans. The pork is marinaded in adobada (red chile) paste and spit roasted with a large pineapple placed on top.

When it is served, it is companied by sliced onions, cilantro and the all-important roasted pineapple. Added to give it that hint of sweetness. Taco al pastor is my favourite kind of taco, and there is no visit to Mexico City without trying them. You should really try all three traditional varieties to decide which one is your favourite. Pair the meal with an agua fresca and, of course, a side of Chicharron (fried pork rinds.)

Mercado Roma

If you’d rather grab something more substantial, make a detour along Insurgentes. Walk along for about eight minutes until you reach C. Querétaro. Just a few steps from the intersection is the food paradise of the Mercado Roma. The sprawling three-story “market” is more of a food hall. There are no fruit and vegetable stands here. Instead, you’ll find upscale tapas, vegan tacos, a rooftop beer garden and boutique-style dessert stands. The aim of the market was to bring the concept of a gourmet market together with the local community. You can sit around communal tables and perhaps even make a few new friends inside. 

Por Siempre Vegana

Right across the street from the market is one of the precious few vegan taquerias in the city. Por Siempre Vegana or Forever Vegan, located along Coahuila Street, prides itself on making traditional-style Mexican tacos without the meat! Being a vegan visitor in Mexico City is definitely getting more and more accessible over the years and places like this are the reason! Even if you’re a meat-eater it’s worth checking out. It’s impressive to see the techniques and ingredients they use to create these incredible dishes.

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Restaurante Rosetta

Make your way back up Orizaba to Colima Street. Colima Street is home to some of the best restaurants in the area. To end your evening in Roma Norte, make reservations at Rosetta restaurant. This incredible culinary experience is located inside an old villa whose courtyard has been restored to serve a the restaurant’s dining room. The entire place is filled with plants, making you feel as though you are dining al fresco. The ambiance is outstanding, and the dishes are ever-changing to suit the season. Locally sourced produce is reflected in the ever-changing menu. I always lean towards the chef’s inventive takes on traditional Mexican cusine. Dishes like the white mole with fermented carrots and charcoal are the perfect example of this modern take on classical dishes.

Tamales Doña Emi

If you are craving a snack, hop over to Tamales Doña Emi. If you’ve never managed to be up early in the morning to catch the street tamale vendor, this is a great place to try tamales! There are dozens of different varieties here to try. They have all the traditional fillings and some more eclectic and modern variations as well. Something for everyone.

Mercado 100

On the corner of Orizaba and C. Antonio M. Anza, just down the street, is the Mercado 100. The Mercado 100 is held every Sunday. It is one of the most unique markets you’ll find anywhere in the city. What makes the Mercado 100 so special is that they aim to be an ethical marketing alternative for organic, ecological and local producers. The market has been running for the past 8 years, and highlights over 50 producers from all over Mexico.

While there is lots of local produce for sale here, you can also buy packaged products. Everything from; honey, vanilla, sauces, chocolate, spices and more. These are wonderful things to buy to bring a slice of Mexico home with you. There are also local artisans selling their wares and handmade goods. Plus the street food, especially the vegan variety, is always incredibly fresh!

El Hidalguense

If you’re in town on Friday, Saturday or Sunday do you need to check out El Hidalguense! El Hidalguense is one of the top traditional Mexican restaurants in the entire city. The restaurant’s classic, old-world interior design makes you feel like you’re stepping back in time. And the dishes are made to bring your taste buds right back there with you. The restaurant specializes in barbacoa (barbeque) lamb tacos which send anyone drooling upon entering the restaurant.

This restaurant is only open on the weekends because the process takes all week to ensure the meat is perfectly cooked. The method of preparation dates all the way back to pre-Columbian times. They begin by digging a hole in the ground and covering it with heated stones. The stones heat the hole for an entire day before the core temperate is hot enough to cook the meat.

After this, the prepared sheep is wrapped in maguey leaves. The leaves give the meat insulation from the hot stones and flavour the meat while it cooks. The oven is then covered in the same leaves and a layer of earth. A fire is lit on top, and the meat is left to cook for around 12 hours or more. The result is incredible and a must–order from El Hidalguense. The atmosphere here is like walking into a huge family party, that has already gotten underway. Families gather to share large platters of slow-cooked meat. Even visitors like you will feel like family by the end of the meal.

Huset

If you’re looking for a place to eat under one of the most picturesque outdoor patios in the city, look no further than Huset. Huset serves up what they call “country cooking” with their unique wood-fired oven-prepared plates. Sitting outside at the communal tables, eating these elevated dishes, really feels like you’re inside a magical garden and is such a memorable place to find yourself on a warm evening. 

Lalo!

If you want to go to brunch and be guaranteed a smile, then you must visit Lalo! Lalo! is another popular brunch spot located in the Roma neighbourhood. Lalo! is the nickname of the owner and acclaimed chef Eduardo Garcia. Brunch is bustling here, so be prepared to wait a while to get a table but trust me, it’s worth it.

Painted on the cafe walls are these incredible colourful, feel-good drawings by Belgian graffiti artist Blue Warrior. They say you eat with your eyes, and being surrounded by these positive and happy-inducing images; you can’t help but eat while filled with pure joy. The most popular items on the menu are their huevos con chorizo and the Huevos fritos con salsa ranchers.

Lardo

Lardo is a beautiful brunch spot in the La Condesa neighbourhood. It’s located inside the old apartment buildings built by THE Condesa that the district is named after. I love how the restaurants are almost hidden away behind the crawling plants that cover the facade of the building. This area of town is so busy on the weekend, and the ambience outside the restaurant is just intoxicating. The menu features hip Mexican-European fusion food, which is as delicious to eat as it is mesmerizing to look at. 

Don’t leave without trying the Fried egg, chile con carne and avocado. The Mexican deconstructed version of avocado toast. My husband is obsessed with their selection of granola, and their baked granola served with red berries, and almond milk is a playful take on cereal. Reservations are recommended at this place since it’s one of the most popular spots in Condesa.

Comedor de los Milagros

To end your evening in Roma Sur, head up to the Comedor de los Milagros. The amazing communal party atmosphere inside is palpable. Comedor de los Milagros is a Latin American market, where you can try food from seven different Latin American countries. There are seven restaurant booths surrounding the wide-open room where guests dine on long, communal picnic benches. The food is representative of Argentina, Brazil, Colombia, Uruguay, Peru, Venezuela and Mexico. Peruvian ceviche, Argentinian steak, and even a slew of vegan options as well can all be found inside!

The upper balcony is covered in wall murals and living plants to give the vibe of being outside! It’s the most lively place to be at night, but on the weekend, be prepared to wait in line as it’s one of the hottest places in town. But well worth the effort to get inside!

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Where to Find the Best Desserts

Helados Cometa

In my opinion, no meal (especially dinner) is complete without dessert! Head next door to Helados Cometa for some of the best ice creams in the entire city! Everything here is made from scratch. Unlike other shops in the city with an overwhelming menu, their selection is small but flawless. Ensuring every bite is made to perfection. Even their cones are handmade and have an added element of salt which wonderfully complements the sweet cream! Try the honey and pistachio, or rose and pistachio (pretty much anything with pistachio!)

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Where to Get a Drink

Casa Prunes

Just south of Cafebrería El Péndulo is the Casa Prunes. The Casa Prunes is hidden away on historic Chihuahua street. Despite its rather obscure location, it is one of the best remaining examples of Art Nouveau architecture in Roma. True art-nouveau has all but disappeared. Save for this location. It is indeed a rare bird. The architects were inspired by the natural forms of the prune tree. You can see the arching branches and even bunches of prunes hanging off the stone window carvings.

Despite its artistic impact, the house was left abandoned for years. Only recently has it been renovated. You can now step inside and enjoy a drink in this chic cocktail bar.

Gin Gin Álvaro Obregón

For those who don’t want the night to end, or like me, want to poke their heads into every building, you can safely bar hop along with the Avenida Álvaro Obregón. Gin Gin Álvaro Obregón is my favourite bar, thanks for their out-of-this-world, skeletal decor! Their cocktail menu is IMMENSE and highlights (as is the name of the bar infers) gin! As the night wears on, a DJ will sometimes play live music. While this can get very loud, if that’s your vibe, you’ll really enjoy yourself.

Licorería Limantour

Licorería Limantour is one of the most popular bars in Mexico City. It just made it onto the World’s Best Bars list at #6! One of the reasons it has made such an impact is its menu. It combines the trendiest cocktails with tried and true recipes that stand the test of time. I sampled so many drinks with flavour combinations I never imagined, but they tasted like perfection! Licorería Limantour’s locations are suberbly decorated with elegant interiors that match the friendly vibe of the place. Reservations are recommended as this place is one of the most popular spots in the city!

Café de Nadie

I’m not going to lie; when walking by this bar, I glanced at the drinks menu and immediately walked straight based on the names of the drinks. With names like “Standing Next to Me,” “My Mistakes were made for you,” and “The Meeting Place,” I was entranced by the originality. Little did I know, this bar is known for its incredible music! The nights often feature amazing DJs spinning vintage vinyl records combined with some trendiest music in town. This is the place to come if you want to learn more about the laid-back music scene in Mexico City.

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Where to Find the Best Museums

Looking to find a way to spend the rest of your afternoon? Consider a visit to one of Roma’s many museums.

MODO Museo del Objeto

My favourite museum in Roma Norte is the MODO Museo del Objeto. I love to study vintage packaging, advertising, and graphic deisgn. These items and practical objects, dating as far back as 1810, tell a rich story about the culture and communities they served. The museum started as one man’s personal collection and today contains over 30,000 items. Bruno Newman is a researcher looking into the history of design and communications. This museum is a wonderful chance for him to share his finding with the rest of us!

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Casa Lamm Culture Center

Casa Lamm is now a fantastic gallery and cultural center. But when it was first built in 1911, it served as an aristocratic residence. Although the family never got around to living in it. The mansion was designed to be emblematic of the Euro-Mexican style. Encompassing as many European design elements as possible. But Casa Lamm manages to do it elegantly where all the ornaments somehow feel cohesive.

After changing hands several times, the house was transformed and saved from utter ruin in 1993. It was turned into the Casa Lamm Culture Center. The centre set out to serve and educate the community in academic and artistic endeavours. Today, students can receive their BA, Master or Doctorates in Art History, Museum Management, Art Curatorship and Creative Writing.

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But the public can enter the centre to explore various public areas. There is the fantastic Liberia Pegaso bookstore. Here you can find some incredible books on the art and architecture of Mexico City. You can also explore their various galleries featuring a rotating list of contemporary artists. You can also explore their gorgeous garden filled with exemplary sculptures from famous and up-and-coming Mexican artists.

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Galleria OMR

If you’re into contemporary, avant-garde art, you should make a point to visit the OMR Gallery. The OMR prides itself on representing emerging and established contemporary artists. Many of these artists are instrumental in the development of Mexico City’s contemporary art scene. The gallery is located inside an industrial-style building, perfect for featuring these contemporary works of art. The space blends together the indoors and outdoors. Allowing the artworks to pour out into the courtyard to best serve the artistic experience.

Lulu Gallery

If indie movies aren’t your thing, head over to the western edge of Roma Sur. Here you can pop your head into the fresh exhibitions at Lulu Gallery. Lulu is an independent, Mexico City-based art project space. The gallery specializes in artworks created out of interesting materials and forms. While some galleries feature work that tends to be more about the message than form, this gallery flips that concept on its head. What you’re left with are some really really cool works of art that draw you in and yet don’t ask too much of your brain. Which I always think is a great way to approach art.

The post Everything You Need to Know About Visiting Colonia Roma in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Despite Casa Decu opening four years, the pandemic took a big bite out of its launch. But this means the hotel still feels brand new! And while there are plenty of other hotels in the area, Casa Decu is truly such a wonderful place at a surprisingly reasonable price! This kind of boutique hotel is a sparkling diamond that will make your entire trip all the more of a relaxing retreat.

Table Of Contents

1. Location
2. The Vision
3. Rooms & Suites
4. Bathroom
5. Pet-Friendly
6. Design
7. Rooftop & Breakfast
8. Gym
9. Pricing
10. Overall Review

Location

Casa Decu is located in the upscale and tourist-friendly neighbourhood of La Condesa, just steps from Avenida Amsterdam. I have lots of different guides all about La Condesa as it is my absolute favourite barrio in Mexico City. La Condesa is safe, historic, has a fantastic coffee and cafe culture and incredible restaurants hidden around every leaf-covered corner. This is the perfect place to stay for anyone who is visiting the city for the first time.

The Vision

Casa Decu‘s philosophy is to create spaces where guests can easily enjoy long-term stays. This means an array of amenities to make it, so you almost don’t want to leave! Even if you’re only in town for a few days, you still have access to these extras. This includes a kitchenette, sofa and dining area in even the smallest and lowest-priced rooms. They believe these additions allows travellers to feel more like a local than just a tourist. And it totally works. While I love the idea of Airbnb, I’ve had so many problems in the past and even ethically it’s not the greatest option to help develop the economy of the place you’re visiting. That’s why options like Casa Decu are great as they feel like staying inside a home but with the comfort of a hotel experience.

Rooms & Suites

Casa Decu only has 27 rooms, so they are technically classified as a boutique hotel. They offer four different options for your stay. The cheapest is the Executive Room with a double bed, separate bathroom and kitchenette. The Junior Suite is slightly larger and features a queen or double bed with a separate bathroom and Living room. The Superior Suite is double the size of the Junior, so you can really feel like you can spread out, but it has the same amenities. The largest option is the Duplex Suite which actually contains a joint with a second bedroom with two independent bathrooms! The largest rooms on the first floor even have a small, enclosed terrace, but these rooms are first come, first serve, and you cannot guarantee one.

My Room

I booked the Executive Room but was upgraded upon arrival to a Junior Suite upon arrival. The great thing about small hotels is they have a little more control over the experience so you will frequently get upgraded if they have the space. The addition of the kitchenette was one of the main reasons I booked the hotel. I adore having a small kitchen since I always buy SO many drinks and love having them kept cool to enjoy when I get back to the hotel after a hotel day. Nothing is better when you get home after a long day than to kick off your shoes and relax for the night with a refreshing local beverage.

My room looked out over the inner courtyard. I was concerned this might be noisy but at night it was totally silent. And I loved sitting at the dinner table watching people come and go. It was like looking out over onto a quiet side street. The bed was lush and comfy and there was lots of space to hang and store my clothes.

Bathroom

The bathroom is very simplistic and some might say a little overly so. I love a bath, so anytime I don’t have that option I’m a bit bummed. But bathtubs are SUPER rare to find in Mexico City so I’ve become used to very rarely finding one. The sink is located outside the separate shower and toilet stall which is bonus if you need to brush your teeth while someone is in the shower. Despite the shower room being so plain and rustic, the water pressure was amazing and I didn’t have any issues with the temperature.

Pet-Friendly

The hotel is divided into two halves, with one area dedicated to medium and small-breed pets! I didn’t hear any noise from the dogs but I sure did have a good time petting those good girls and boys when I ran into them in the morning.

Design

The hotel is located inside a renovated Art Deco apartment building. The original structure dates back to the late 1930s but obviously, the interior has been up hauled for the modern era. But the designers kept so many of the amazing vintage elements that make the building feel like a piece of history. Mexico City, and especially La Condesa, is home to some very unique art deco buildings so getting to stay inside one of them is really special. There is not a corner of the building that doesn’t feel like a great spot for a photo-op!

Rooftop & Breakfast

Although an included breakfast is never that important to me (as I prefer heading right out onto the town to seek out a new coffee shop) I was blown away by the gorgeous rooftop terrace. Up here is where you found the included Continental breakfast every morning. The provided breakfast itself is very basic, but you could order additional dishes at an additional cost extra. That being said, most coffee shops in the area open later than I usually prefer so it was SUPER convenient to be able to wake up and have a coffee on the terrace.

While simple, the breakfast options were great and there was something for everyone. From toast and cereal to fresh fruit, hot pastries and yogurt it was a nice spread to get something in your stomach before heading out for your day. And if you want to save some money having an included breakfast in your hotel stay means you don’t need to spend anything additional in the morning.

The rooftop terrace is actually open 24/7, so you can grab your own snacks and head up here to enjoy some downtime in a semi-private space any time during the day.

Gym

There is a gym right beside the breakfast bar, but as someone who never works out on vacation, I didn’t use it. I saw some people using the gym while I was up on the terrace relaxing, and the machines were new and looked very spiffy.

Pricing

Search for the most updated prices!

Overall Review

Overall, I LOVED staying at the Casa Decu. When I booked the hotel, it was because I was staying in Mexico City as a sool traveller and just looking for a cheap hotel to stay at. And I was blown away by how gorgeous this place was! My husband dropped in quickly to see the room, as he was on his way out of town and was devastated he didn’t get the chance to stay here with me! So we literally CANNOT wait to come back to experience the place together. The kindness of the staff is also worth mentioning as they were so helpful to both me and everyone I saw interact with the front desk. I really hope you add this to your list of places to check out next time you’re booking a trip to Mexico City!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Guide to the Best Hotels in Mexico City, Honest Review of Art Deco Casa Decu first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

All along the way, there are so many opportunities for incredible Instagram shots since Mexico City is truly one of the most colourful cities in the entire world. Because let’s face it, we all know those adorable IG snaps are an all-important part of the trip. Steal this itinerary to share with your girlfriends to convince them why Mexico City needs to be at the top of your list of places to go for the Ultimate Bachelorette Trip!

Mexico City Bachelorette Itinerary

1. Why Go to Mexico City?
2. Where to Stay
   • Airbnb in La Condesa | SAVE
   • Casa Decu | STANDARD
   • Sofitel Mexico City Reforma | SPLURGE
3. Four-Day Bachelorette Party in Mexico City Map
4. Day 1 | Arrive and Settle In
   • Hunt for Flowers
5. Day 2 – A Day out for Foodies
   • Filigrana Brunch
   • Mercado Medellín
   • Explore more about Roma 
   • Huerto Roma Verde
   • Take a Cooking Class 
   • DIY Cocktail Tour
6. Sunday – A Day on the Water
   • Panadería Rosetta
   • Xochimilco
   • Restaurante Rosetta Dinner
   • Lucha Libra
7. Day 4 – A Day for the Arts in San Angel & Coyoacán
   • Restaurante El Cardenal
   • Carmen Church of San Ángel
   • Saturday Art Market
   • Art Galleries and Stores
   • Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo
   • Coyoacan Market
   • Casa Azul
   • Bazar Artesanal Mexicano
   • Corazón de Maguey

Why Go to Mexico City?

Mexico City has it all. Cheap food, amazing cocktail bars, fun activities, gorgeous museums, awe-inspiring street art, retro architecture and phenomenal culture. This itinerary is for a Mexico City Bachelorette party who are maybe a little more eccentric. And don’t want a cookie-cutter weekend. Throw out ideas of strip clubs and manicures. Replace them with enriching museums, astonishing street food and giddying streets to explore with your friends. There are so many different activities to suit all kinds of brides. But you can intertwine all of them in this itinerary to give all the guests a little bit of everything. Whether they like to party or like a more laid-back weekend, I think Mexico City suits the needs of everyone.

Where to Stay

Airbnb in La Condesa | SAVE

Another wonderful thing about a Mexico City Bachelorette is that there are many different types of accommodations. Options to suit all different price points. A great choice for the savers is to rent an Airbnb in La Condesa. La Condesa is my favourite neighbourhood in the entire city. Here you can rent out entire houses and apartments to host your whole crew. This way, you can all stay together. It’s so fun to use the communal kitchen to make some of your meals. Or just relax in the outdoor spaces at night or in the morning. Soaking up all that amazing Mexico City weather! 

I found this incredible house in La Condesa with seven bedrooms and eleven beds. And it’s just under $300 USD a night. If you came with eight girlfriends, that is less than $40/night per person! Plus, you get all the amenities of having a house! There are many different options with Airbnb, from modern chic to more traditional, historic homes. You can really find the perfect fit to suit your bride-to-be.

USD $300/night (plus cleaning fees)

Casa Decu | STANDARD

If your guests would prefer a hotel, then you should check out the Casa Decu hotel, also in La Condesa. Casa Decu is located inside an old Art Deco building and has quickly become my new favourite hotel in the city. The benefit of hotels are they offer a little bit more privacy and the comfort of not having to clean up for yourself every day. The design of this place is so retro, the amenities are top-notch, and the rooftop breakfast patio is fantastic. They have a huge table under some shade upstairs, perfect to host your group. So you can all eat breakfast together each morning before hitting the streets.

All the rooms, even the most inexpensive, each come with their own mini kitchenette. This way you can keep food your buy along the way in the fridge. But you’ll also have the opportunity to cook a small meal, or just an aperitif before dinner, in the room. Be sure to message the hotel directly to see if they can provide you with additional group promotional rates!

USD $105/night

Sofitel Mexico City Reforma | SPLURGE

If you want to go all out, splurge on a few nights at the Sofitel Mexico City. Located on the famous Paseo de la Reforma, the main avenue in Mexico City. This hotel boasts some of the most fabulous views of the city from the comfort of your hotel room. The hotel is the first luxury French-branded hotel in the city, so you know you’re staying somewhere really special. The chic interiors are fabulous and suit the modern bachelorette aesthetic. Plus, their indoor pool on the 28th floor has one of the most spectacular views of the city. Which is even more incredible at sunset! Bring your girlfriends up here at dusk, and they’ll be so impressed!

USD $270/night

Four-Day Bachelorette Party in Mexico City Map

Day 1 | Arrive and Settle In

The best way to get settled and adjust to the new altitude (Mexico City is, after all, 7,300 feet above sea level) with your girlfriends is a self-guided taco tour. I’ve created this unique taco tour all around La Condesa! This tour lets you explore the neighbourhood while stopping in to try the barrio’s best tacos. Along the way, you can stop and check out whatever your eyes are drawn to. Exploring those little curious corners of the neighbourhood is a great way to work off those tacos, so you’re ready for more!

Hunt for Flowers

As you’re all exploring the neighbourhood for tacos, be sure to go hunting for flowers as well. If you’re travelling as a bridal party, seeking out fresh flowers from the flower carts is the perfect activity! Great practice for the wedding day bouquets. Fresh flowers in Mexico City are so inexpensive and jazz up your Airbnb or Hotel room. In La Condesa, you can simply walk up and down Avenue Amsterdam to find many different vendors. The one across from the Walmart called Flower Jessica (marked on the map above and at the end of the post) is always reliably filled with great flowers! 

Self Made Bouquets

It’s so much fun to grab as many different flowers as your heart delights. Then head back to your hotel’s rooftop patio or communal space to make your own little flower arrangements. It’s a fantastic yet also slightly relaxing activity. Great to do while you adjust to the new time zone and altitude.

“But we don’t have any vases!” you might think. Not to worry! While some stands actually do sell them for cheap, there is another option that is almost free. Just run over to your local Oxxo or 7-Eleven convenience store and buy a few drinks inside glass bottles. Fill your basket up with Topo Chico, Mexican Coke or interesting glass bottles of beer. Get back home and enjoy the refreshing beverages while you make your bouqtes. When you’re done, just pop the flowers into the now empty glass bottles with some fresh water. Easy peasy!

Take it Easy, grab a Churro

While you might be DYING to get out there and grab cocktails, trust me on this one, the altitude can make or break you on your first day! It’s best to take it easy, just on the first day. Especially regarding drinking anything alcoholic. If you’re looking for an evening treat, I advise heading to Churrería El Moro. This churro shop is one of the most popular places in the city. And luckily, they have a few locations so you’re never too far away from one. Grab yourself and your girlfriends a huge tray of churros with their selection of dipping sauces. The perfect sharable delight. In addition to amazing trays of churros, they also sell delicious Mexican hot chocolate. A historical Aztec staple you need to try along the way! Try to take in an early night cause tomorrow we hit the streets!

Day 2 – A Day out for Foodies

Today is all about FOOD! We are going to start the day by going out for Brunch. Brunch in Mexico City is truly world-class! And there are so many different places to go. But if you want to check out my favourites, you can’t go wrong with any of these locations. So if the only I’ve recommended below is booked up there are lots of other options.

Filigrana Brunch

Filigrana is my new favourite brunch spot, so I had to update this list to feature it. Walking inside, you are immediately in awe of the environment. The glass walls allow the beautiful morning sun to filter in, creating rainbows of light on the floor. You are immediately greeted by friendly servers. Before you’ve ever ordered, you are brought out their pastry tray with some of the most inventive, colourful and delicious pastries! I had to try at least once, even though I knew more food was coming. Filigrana specializes in Mexican fusion with dishes that combine various cultures. The tortillas served alongside your meal are made literally on sight. You can watch the tortillas makers at work for some in-house entertainment.

Be sure to sample the licuado de mamey, a smoothie made with the Mexican mamey fruit! Heavenly creamy! For your meal, I highly recommend the tostadas, chilaquiles, and, of course, some delicious freshly made guacamole. Served with those aforementioned fresh tortillas. What is so convenient about Filigrana is that you can make easy reservations in advance on Opentable. Especially if you’re visiting on the weekend with a larger group, reservations are absolutely mandatory! But they’re not too hard to find if you book well enough in advance.

Mercado Medellín

After a filling brunch, it’s time to head over to the Mercado Medellín. This market is a vibrant place to explore in the heart of the trendy Roma Norte neighbourhood. Even the walk you’ll take to get here will awaken all your senses! And the architecture in this colonial barrio is absolutely fantastic.

The market itself is a marvellous place to explore all the dazzling produce native to Mexico. In addition, the market is filled with stores selling salsas, fresh mole, nuts, rainbow-coloured candies, colourful pinatas and more! You can just wander around to your heart’s content. Or follow my self-guided tour to better understand the best things to check out!

Explore more about Roma 

Before our big evening activity, make a point to explore more of the Roma Norte neighbourhood. Roma Norte is known for having the best bar scene, top-class restaurants, incredible street food, and picturesque cafes on every street corner. But the area is also home to some of the best-preserved colonial-era architecture. Every street is plush with greenery and ivy falling off the Juliet balconies above. Wide avenues are home to charming works of art, and the idyllic parks are where locals come to relax.

Although you might not have time to take the entirety of my Roma Walking Tour, I would recommend at least walking up and down some of the side streets around Tepeji street. It’s here where you’ll find the filming location where they shot the Academy Award-nominated movie Roma. These streets are so quiet yet picturesque, so it’s the perfect place to safely wander with your girlfriends.

Huerto Roma Verde

On the way to our next activity, head over to the large intersection at Avenue Yucatan. Across the street, on the east side, you can spot a bright blue column, this giant structure is actually made of old water jugs! This icon marks the monumental entrance to the Huerto Roma Verde. Huerto Roma Verde is a cultural centre made from recovered property once destroyed by the 1985 earthquake. The land was abandoned for 27 years and used as a dumping ground. But Paco Ayala, who initiated the project, saw the 8,000 square feet as an opportunity. He saw the space as a place for regrowth and environmental education through art.

About Huerto Roma Verde

The self-managed community found inside these walls was created by grassroots environmental activists. It began as a small shared vegetable garden. Where residents who lived in small apartments without outdoor space could come and grow their own fresh food. From there, it grew to have a storage tower to collect rainwater, a recycling centre for solid waste and even several farm animals! They aim to focus on sustainability and promote the development of communities integrated into their local environments.

Much of the space is designed to be an urban garden with mind-bending art sculptures created within the living environment. While you can wander the space and appreciate the artworks, you can also stop at the various pop-up businesses. They sell everything from organic cosmetics to vegan desserts and fresh coffee. It’s a fantastic place to do some local shopping!

Take a Cooking Class 

Cooking classes are such wonderful group activities as everyone gets to participate, have some fun and learn more about the culture of the place their visiting. Plus you also get to eat everything you cook! Over at Eat Mexico, they have a cooking class that celebrates Mexico’s food culture and teaches their guests how to master these hundred-year-old recipes. From basic green salsa to corn masa, chicken tinga and papas con chorizo. You’ll learn how to cook nopales, make some chilaquiles and learn more about all the different varieties of Mexican chillies that flavour almost every dish you eat in Mexico.

(Note these classes only run Tues-Friday so plan accordingly.)

Price: $83 USD/ per person

DIY Cocktail Tour

For those who don’t want the night to end, you can safely bar hop along with the Avenida Álvaro Obregón in Roma Norte. Start at Gin Gin Álvaro Obregón, my favourite bar; thanks for their out-of-this-world, skeletal decor! Their cocktail menu is IMMENSE and highlights (as is the name of the bar infers) gin! As the night wears on, a DJ will sometimes play live music. While this can get very loud, if that’s your vibe, you’ll enjoy yourself.

The next place I would head to with my girlfriends is Licorería Limantour, just a few doors down. This place is a legendary cocktail bar in Mexico City which some of the most clever drinks & snacks in a chic environment, complete with a gorgeous terrace. Sitting here on a hot night, enjoying a cool breeze, is a fantastic way to while away an evening.

Hanky Panky

If you still are craving some more entertainment, walk or uber up to the northern part of Roma Norte to Hanky Panky Speakeasy. Be sure you book a reservation at this place in advance, as it’s the only way to get in if you’re not a member. Speakeasies have had a resurgence all over the world in the past few years, and this one is perhaps the most fun to discover. The place looks like nothing more than a small taco shop when you arrive. But on the right is a large fridge that juts suspiciously far out from the wall…

Once you provide your reservation details to the man behind the counter, he will open up the beer fridge and usher you inside. He closes the door behind you, and you’ll think the worst for a moment as you are plunged into darkness. But then, another door opens in front of you, and you enter into the chic, deliciously vibey atmosphere of the hidden bar inside. Drinks cost around $160-$220 pesos, which is more than reasonable considering the incredible drama of the place! It’s a delightfully fun experience for those who want to impress and awe their friends. Keep the details of this stop a secret, and the bride will be impressed with your discovery!

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Sunday – A Day on the Water

Panadería Rosetta

After what was no doubt a late late night, eating is the only real way to cure a hangover! And set you right for the day ahead. One of my other favourite laid-back brunch restaurants in Mexico City is Panderia Rossetta. This incredible bakery in Roma Norte is a hot spot every morning, no matter the time of day. And there is good reason for this, aside from its spectacular appearance. The pastries baked fresh daily are some of the most inventive, delicious and mouthwateringly beautiful creations. Their guava pastry is one of their most popular options.

Although there is seating outside, you might need to wait a while, depending on how busy it is. Luckily, if you’re staying in the area, you can get a whole selection of parties and coffees to bring back for a laid-back taste test at home. 

Alternatively, I recommend bringing your haul to the nearby Plaza Río de Janeiro. This incredibly beautiful park is encircled by some of the city’s most gorgeous art deco and colonial architecture. It is a wonderful place to enjoy a morning coffee and pastry in the sun. If you’re lucky, you might also have some street food vendors pass you by to top off your breakfast with some fresh tamales or fresh fruit cups!

Xochimilco

After loading up on carbs and recovering from the night before, it’s time to head out to one of the most interesting, vibrant and culturally significant places just outside Mexico City; Xochimilco. Xochimilco is known as the Venice of Mexico. Xochimilco consists of over 170 kilometers of canals spread across the southern part of Mexico City. The word “Xochimilco” means “Floating Gardens,” as this was where the ancient Aztecs created a network of artificial agricultural plots. These garden plots are called chinampas, land rich in minerals, where flowers and a variety of fruits and veggies grow in abundance. Xochimilco is now considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site as it preserves this Aztec technology.

Where is Xochimilco

Xochimilco is about 45 minutes south of the city. You can easily book an Uber to drive you to and from the Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas Xochimilco. This is the ONLY place you should arrive to get onto your Trajineras. There are TONS of bike people who might stop you on the way into town saying this place is closed, but it’s not. It’s a common scam to get people to access a different dock with much higher prices. Just tell your driver to ignore them, and push onto your destination.

Trajineras

One of the most iconic aspects of a trip on the canals today are riding inside the neon painted Trajineras. These brightly coloured boats float up and down the canals and today can be rented out by individuals or groups to enjoy the beauty of the canals. They have flat bottoms and float throughout the canals with nothing more than a long wooden ore controlled by your rower, just like a gondolier. In the center of the boat is a large table, and there are about a dozen chairs on either side, so you can have an entire group ride on the same boat! The covered roof is perfect for keeping the sun off during hot days, but if you want to sit out in the sunlight, the front of the boat has ample room.

The boats are vibrantly painted to resemble the flowers that grew on either side of the canals hundreds of years ago. Each boat is given a different name; you might not know that if you know who to call, you can have your name painted on a boat just for you when you arrive. This is perfect for your bride as you can even get it named after her!

How to Rent a Boat

Getting a Trajinera inexpensively isn’t something you should expect when coming to Xochimilco. This isn’t one of those super budget-friendly excursions. The maximum rate set by the city is 500 pesos per hour, per boat (not per person as some tricky boatmen might quote you). You can try and haggle your way down, but unless you have a good grasp of Spanish haggling, you’ll find it difficult to get the rides any cheaper than 400-450 pesos per hour.

2-hours is the minimum I would go for since it takes a while for them to get the boats out of the dock, and an hour would barely get you out into the canals far enough to see the real Xochimilco. I would honestly say I wish we’d gone out for longer! Plus, the longer you go, the better your chance of striking a deal! Remember to tip your boatman at the end of the trip, most of the money you pay goes to his boss, and the driver sees little of that price, so a nice tip will go a long way for them.

Group Tours to Xochimilco

You can easily book a group tour if you’d rather not deal with all these details yourself. This takes all the organization out of your hands and lets you enjoy yourself without needing to be at the wheel. My favourite site to book these tours lately has been Airbnb experiences. I find their prices the most competitive and don’t include too many extras you don’t need. These tours are great as the guides help explain sights along the way and usually include a bit of food! 

You are allowed to bring whatever food and drinks you want with you to the Trajineras. I always recommend stopping by your local convenience stores to load up on some neat snacks and a few drinks. Depending on what day of the week you visit will change what’s open (the weekdays tend to have fewer stalls and sellers open than the weekends). But there’s always something to buy on land and on the water. That’s right, there’s food available throughout the canals as you travel. Vendors with roasted corn, coconut water, tacos, cold beer and freshly made micheladas float up and down the canals. The prices are more than you’d pay in the market, but you pay for the privilege of having them coming right to your boat!

Restaurante Rosetta Dinner

After coming home, it’s probably time for everyone to enjoy a bit of a nap after a hot day out on the water. If you feel like you’d like a gorgeous dinner tonight, I would recommend reservations at Restaurante Rosetta. This stunning eatery is located inside an old villa and is literally dripping, inside and out, with greenery. The menu is unique and creative and is a fusion of traditional Mexican dishes with modern, international ingredients. It’s such a gorgeous interior you’ll be absolutely transported both by the food and the decor.

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Lucha Libra

If your crew is the adventurous type, just down the street is the Arena México, where you can catch a Lucha Libre show almost every day of the week! Lucha Libre is Mexican Wrestling and even if you aren’t even the slightest bit of a wrestling or sports fan, going to these shows is soooo much fun. We’ve gone both with a tour group and on our own, and it’s a blast either way. Going on your own is much cheaper, as tickets are only about $25 USD but going with the group is a wonderful experience for first-timers. They teach you all about the sport’s history and why it has become such an important part of the Mexican identity.

Everywhere you go in Mexico City, you’ll see Lucha masks for sale and everything from t-shirts to souvenir magnets with famous wrestlers on them. So it’s good to find out what this is all about. It’s a fun group activity as it gets everyone talking. Even if you don’t speak a lick of Spanish, it’s so much fun to try to interpret the storylines and the moves and just sit back and be in awe of the absolute madness and amazing physical prowess this real athlete put on display!

Day 4 – A Day for the Arts in San Angel & Coyoacán

Our last day in Mexico City is about immersing ourselves in the city’s most artistic areas of the city; San Angel and Coyoacan. This is where Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera spent more of their lives and careers. The entire neighbourhood is steeped in vibrant creativity. We’ll start the day in San Angel, exploring the brilliant colonial architecture and amazing art scene, and then uber over to nearby Coyoacan, where we can walk in the footsteps of Frida Kahlo. San Angel is famous for its Saturday Art Market. But if you choose to arrive here on any other day, you’ll still find the neighbourhood to be an incredible place to find wonderful works of art!

Restaurante El Cardenal

Head to the best breakfast spot in San Angel, Restaurante El Cardenal, to start your morning. Restaurante El Cardenal is an institution in Mexico City that was founded in 1969! At El Cardenal, you can come and feel like you’re dining at your mother’s table. Their location in San Ángel is located inside an old colonial mansion and the gorgeous architecture make eating here a luxurious experience.

To start the perfect breakfast, begin with hot chocolate, not coffee! Their unique hot chocolate is made with famous Doña Oliva chocolate and is like drinking a cup of history. Hot chocolate originated in Mexico and was an essential part of the Aztec culture from 1400 AD. My favourite part about the experience of eating here was the pastry tray. When you come inside, a waiter brings you over an enormous tray of sweet pastries. And you can choose, with your own eyes, which pastry you want to start the meal right with. I went with the concha as I feel like it’s the perfect pairing with a hot chocolate. The rest of the menu is filled with traditional Mexican brunch options and honestly you can’t go wrong with any of them!

Carmen Church of San Ángel

As we make our way west towards the Plaza San Jacinto, quickly stop inside the old Carmelite church, just across from the restaurant. The church was built here in 1615 and it features some amazing Herrerian architecture. The courtyard makes for a wonderful photo op as you are surrounded by incredible Puebla tiles, fantastical domed rooms and beautiful greenery. Even if your group isn’t super religious, I love stopping in here just to admire the marvellous architecture and baorque art.

Walking into the church, the restrained architecture surrounding you highlights the incredible golden altar. Light frames the altar from either side, creating the most ethereal glow. While the rest of the building might be simpler in design, the altarpiece is pure baroque. Drama, glamour and gilding are everything that the baroque era brought, and we can see it here in leaps and spurts! Since today is all about art, this is a great spot to make a quick stop.

Saturday Art Market

If you come to San Angel on the weekend, you’ll be graced with the amazing Saturday Art Market. It is by far the most popular event in the area. The art on sale is both meant for the locals to enjoy as well as the tourists. Found on easels and leaning against the walls are works of art highlighting the beauty of the Mexican landscape and their vibrant culture. There were so many amazing artists of all different styles and mediums. 

In addition to paintings, this Plaza is also home to craftspeople. Here you can find artisan pottery, textiles and even clothing. While some of it is a bit touristy, there are also unique designers and artists. Prices tend to be a little more expensive here in San Angel, but the quality matches the cost. This is a great market to find some amazing souvenirs to bring home!

Art Galleries and Stores

If you opt to visit San Angel on any other day than Saturday, you can still find many handicraft shops open around the square throughout the week. They keep the spirit of the art market alive throughout the week. Shops like the Bazar San Ángel, María Bonita and Local México sell gorgeous handmade decor and art pieces for your home. The spirit of the art market lives on long past the weekend, so don’t feel like you’ll have missed it all if you can only visit during the week. Maria Bonita sells amazing pieces of art made by Mexican artists at very affordable prices. Their store is also a joy to walk through and feels absolutely transporting.

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo

Wander through the back alleys of San Angel, north towards the incredible Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. This amazing feat of architecture was where Diego Rivera worked and lived alongside his wife, Frida Kahlo. The two homes are connected via the large walkway on the top floor. The entire design of the homes is symbolic of their love. So it really makes for a great stop for a future bride!

The museum leads you through both houses to see their studios, living spaces and a gorgeous rooftop view across the neighbourhood of San Angel. You can read our full guide here to get a complete guided tour of the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The house doesn’t take much time to explore, but the incredible architecture is worth seeing. Plus, if you’re a fan of Frida and Diego, this peeks into their private lives is unrivalled.

Coyoacan Market

By now, you’re no doubt starting to get hungry, so it’s time to hop into an Uber and head over to Coyacano. Start your introduction to Coyoacan outside the famous Mercado de Coyoacán! This market has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s more than one building pieced together. The newest part of the structure was built in the 1950s. But the original, much smaller marketplace was where Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul.

El Jardín del Pulpo

Before entering the market’s interior, stop at the sidewalk entrance on the corner of Malintzin and Ignacio Allende where you’ll find El Jardín del Pulpo. El Jardín del Pulpo translates into ‘The Octopus’s Garden, ‘where you can indulge in Coyoacán’s best street seafood. While it might seem a little more expensive than regular street food, you’ll be eating such luxuries as lobster and langostino. You MUST give their GIANT shrimp cocktails a try!

Tostadas Coyoacan 

But the main reason for visiting this market is to try Tostadas Coyoacan! The lines can get pretty long at lunchtime, but it moves quickly and gives you time to scope out what you want to try. The shrimp ceviche tostadas with thick slices of avocado to cut the acidity are absolute perfection! If eating raw seafood is a little too adventurous for you, try their famous shredded chicken; simple, moist and flavourful! There are six different eating areas with bar-style seating, so you can almost always find somewhere to saddle up, even at the busiest time of day.

Barbacoa is another traditional dish to try in the Coyacán market. If you’re visiting on Saturdays and Sundays, find your war to El Borrego de Oro or ‘The Golden Sheep’ at the back of the market. The shreds of tender meat atop freshly made tortillas are absolute heaven.

Casa Azul

What most people come to Coyocan for is the Casa Azul, also known as the Frida Kahlo Museum. The Casa Azul was where Mexican artist Frida Kahlo grew up, became an artist, married, and even died. She lived there with her husband, Diego Rivera, and together the two of them transformed a simple home into an artist’s retreat. After her death, the artworks of Frida Kahlo became an international sensation, gaining notoriety more and more as time went on. A hidden genius being discovered after her death, like it so often goes. But Frida herself has become an icon and cultural phenomenon. It’s very important to book these tickets in advance, especially for a large group.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art and being able to tour their home exactly as it was when they lived and worked inside it. Throughout the house, you’ll see their collections of pre-Hispanic artifacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more. You feel deeply connected with these artists by literally walking in their footsteps. The best part for a group of gals is Frida’s personal wardrobe that features pieces from the fashion icon. This is an unmissable experience for anyone interested in art or Frida herself. 

Bazar Artesanal Mexicano

If you’re travelling with a group of ladies, there is no doubt some shopping needs to be done! Just outside of the main square in Coyoacan is the Bazar Artesanal Mexicano. Inside the arched red gates, you step into a small courtyard always adorned with a myriad of artisanal decor. Throughout the two levels of tiny stalls crammed into different corners, you’ll find everything from traditional Mexican clothing complete with gorgeous embroideries, artisanal jewellery, various handicrafts, and pretty much everything you could want for souvenirs. 

The benefit of this artisan market is that it is on the small side but still has everything you could want. This means it’s a little less overwhelming, and you can more easily find what you’re looking for without. Plus, the prices here are slightly lower than in the more touristy Artisan Market outside the Historical Centre in the central city.

Corazón de Maguey

To end the day, make reservations at the Corazón de Maguey. This restaurant in the heart of Coyoacan is an absolute feast for the eyes and the stomach. Walking into the lively cantina, you’re overwhelmed by the bright red walls trimmed in myriad traditional Mexican kitchen implements used for decoration. Huge glass jugs used to store mezcal are stacked around the room, used almost as room dividers. 

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The restaurant specializes in traditional Mexican food served in HUGE portions. My recommendation is to order a whole bunch of different dishes and just share them between the entire table. It’s a great place to try out any food you didn’t get a chance to sample yet. Everything from red mole to beef tongue, stuffed chile ancho peppers, Oaxacan cheese and handmade tortillas are just some of the amazing dishes on the menu. Honestly, it’s one of the most stunning restaurants and the perfect place to end an action packed Mexico City Bachelorette trip!

I hope you enjoyed this Mexico City Bachelorette itinerary! I think this is indeed the perfect combination of activities to entertain everyone. Let me know in the comment where your favourite location of a Bachelorette has been or if you’re planning on hosting your own Mexico City Bachelorette!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Bachelorette Trip to Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Honestly any day you’re in town this is a great way to spend an afternoon. But if you’re looking for something chill and fun for your first day this is the Taco Tour for you! La Condesa is a super safe and really relaxing neighbourhood inside bustling Mexico City. This part of town eases you into the history and culture of Mexico City all through food!

About The Taco Stops

All the stops we’ll make along the are established restaurants, so you won’t need to flex any street food savvy just yet. While street food is incredible in Mexico City and something I really recommend everyone try, I realize on your first day you might want to start slow, with more easy-to-find and order at stops. A little bit of Spanish goes a long way as many of these shops don’t have servers that speak English. That being said, since we’re in a touristy area, a few of the restaurants actually have English menus.

DIY Taco Tour La Condesa Map

List of Restaurants:

1. Taquería Orinoco
2. El Pescadito
3. Tacos Don Juan
5. Taquería El Califa
6. Taqueria El Greco
7. Tacos Hola El Güero

Taquería Orinoco

We start our tour in the north of La Condesa, inside Taquería Orinoco. Taquería Orinoco serves up Northern-style tacos. Their menu is tiny, with three types of meat; trompo (al pastor pork), res (beef), and chicharron (fried pork skin). You can order each flavour on a maize (corn) or harina (flour) tortilla. Or even opt for the crispy tostada. In the north, eating a flour tortilla is expected, so if you want to go for the traditional version you’ll order the harina. 

Once you’re seated, either side or outside, they’ll bring you a large platter of their salsas, which are some of my favourites! Get a glass of freshly made agua fresca (I recommend the hibiscus flavour) to wash it all down! Remember, this is just the first stop, so be sure to only order one taco; you can always come back for more.

Address: Avenue Yucatan 3, Hipódromo
Cost: 24-36 pesos/taco

El Pescadito

Take a walk west along with Avenue Álvaro Obregón until you arrive at Parque Espana. This is a beautiful little parkette worth exploring if you’re taking your time along this Taco Tour. Just off the Parque Espana is the famous El Pescadito. El Pescadito is a little chain in Mexico City that specializes in fish tacos! You’ll know you’ve arrived when you see the cheery face of their fish mascot above the sign on the door beckoning you to enter!

The fish on offer here is the smoked marlin which has the most indearing pink colour against the yellow corn tortillas. They also serve up my favourite which are the shrimp (camarón) tacos. You can also get the campechano taco which combines battered fish and shrimp, so you can try both the options! The best of both worlds. One of my favourite aspects of this restaurant is the toppings bar! Here you can get everything from pickled red onions to shredded cabbage, hot sauce and loads of limes! All self-serve so you can really customize your own perfect taco.

Address: Calle Atlixco 38, Colonia Condesa
Cost: 46 pesos/taco

Tacos Don Juan

Directly across the street from El Pescadito is another hot spot in La Condesa; Tacos Don Juan! Hidden under a small, unassuming sign inside an old art deco-inspired building is a family-run joint with a handwritten menu that changes daily. Make sure you place an order for the quesabirria taco. Birria is beef stew, and the tacos are made from this incredibly tender and flavourful meat. The Quesabirria taco is served with a scoop of meat, then covered in cheese and given a quick fry-up on the grill. What you’re left with is this incredible crispy yet still moist taco that is bursting with flavour!

Address: Calle Atlixco 42, Colonia Condesa
Cost: 46 pesos/quesabirria taco

Walk south along Calle Atlixco until you reach Avenue Tamaulipas. From here, it’s only one block east to our next stop; . claims to be where tacos Al Pastor were first invented. However, almost all shops selling tacos Al Pastor seem to make this claim. Nonetheless, this is one of my favourite places to try out the famous taco.

Tacos Al Pastor was more than likely invented in Puebla in 1930. It was made by a Lebanese immigrant family who introduced the concept of shawarma and roasting meat upright on a spit to the Mexican people. The distinct red colour of the meat is made from marinating the meat in achiote paste. This popular marinade is made from annatto seeds, pepper, cumin, coriander, oregano, garlic and cloves. Once the meat is cooked, it’s shaved off the spit giving it the most intoxicating slightly burnt, crispy flavour. The tacos are served with a fresh slice of pineapple, onion, and cilantro. The meat here is super fresh, and I love how they top it off with their tasty salsas.

Address: Avenue Tamaulipas 122, Colonia Condesa, 
Cost: 27 pesos/taco

Taquería El Califa

At the edge of La Condesa sits a huge taco instituion Taquería El Califa. This is one of the big “grill joints” in town where you can get a ton of different types of tacos. The restaurant is as big as its menu with two floors of seating. Although there are lots of different options, for me, this is where to come to get beef tacos. The bistec (marinated flat iron beef) and costilla (beef rib) are very thin slices of beef, quickly grilled up and placed onto a taco. You can dress it up at the table with their various toppings to your preference. I would be sure some onions and avocado, as the pairing is absolutely perfect.

Address: Altata 22, Hipódromo, Cuauhtémoc
Cost: 30 pesos/taco

Taqueria El Greco

Head diagonally west across Avenue Nuevo León towards the intersection of Avenue Michoacán. Here you’ll find Taqueria El Greco which is home to the original Arabian bread tacos. Their Doneraky tacos are made in an Arab style using a pita instead of a tortilla. Another gift from the Lebanese immigrants who came to Mexico City in the 30s. They would change the taco game forever by introducing these new takes on the classic taco. The roasted meat is so tender and fresh and the softness of the fluffy pita absorbs all the fatty drippings making it such a delight to eat! Get it along with cheese and avocado for an absolute taste sensation!

Address: Av Michoacán 54-Local B – 91 And 92, Hipódromo,
Cost: 76 pesos/taco with cheese and avocado

Tacos Hola El Güero

The infamous Hola Tacos is just a block down from El Greco, around the corner on Amsterdam Avenue. This taco shop specializes in Guisado tacos. Guisado means “stew” in Spanish. Various ingredients are marinaded for hours and hours, making them super juicy, flavourful and tender. But you can get much more than just meat there. If they still have any of the nopales (cactus pads) available when you arrive (which they might not as this sells out quickly), I would highly advise trying them out. Nopales are a popular filling and topping on tacos. But I find the stew they make here with them adds so much flavour to the nopales than when they are only grilled. The stewed Poblanas peppers with cream is also one of my favourites!

Address: Amsterdam 135, Hipódromo, Cuauhtémoc
Cost: 23 pesos/taco

We end our tour here on Amsterdam Avenue, across from Parque Mexico. This is the perfect place to take a rest after all those tacos. Take a seat under the pergola around the Teatro Lindbergh or inside the peaceful Audiorama. As you digest, think about your favourite taco of the day and let me know in the comments if you managed to finish the tour! Or if you had to come back for more

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate DIY Taco Tour of La Condesa, Mexico City; a Foodie’s Dream! first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

A Welcome Bouquet

I find that a bouquet of fresh flowers is the perfect thing to buy yourself upon arriving in a new city. It gives you a little task to complete, allows you to explore a new part of the city, and brings a touch of your personality into any standard hotel room. If you’ve been in Mexico City for any length of time, you’ll undoubtedly have seen the vast flower carts that wheel around the city. Bursting with brightly coloured flowers as they mill about the streets.

There are also beautiful flower stands that dot the edges of busy neighbourhoods and leafy promenades. Basically, you won’t be far from flowers anywhere you go in Mexico City! But the source of all these incredible flowers is the great Mercado Jamaica. So if you want to get your flowers from the source, a trip to Mercado Jamaica is well worth your time. But there is so much more to see in this marketplace than just flowers. Come hungry as this flower market is also home to some of the most amazing food anywhere in the city!

Guide to the Mercado Jamaica

1. Location & How to Get there?
2. History of the Jamaica Market
3. Tips
   • Notes on Photography
   • Holidays
   • Helpful Spanish
4. The Layout of the Market
5. Carnitas Paty
   • Tepache
6. Huaraches Rossy
7. Mariscos Los Paisas
8. Piñata Market
9. Fresh Fruit Stands
10. Jamaica Flowers
11. Chorizo Verde
12. Flower Market
13. Florists
14. La Güera Elotes
15. Mural

Location & How to Get there?

The Mercado Jamaica is located on the corner of Avenida Congreso de la Unión and Avenida Morelos, southeast of the Historic Center of Mexico City. 

Uber

Uber is always my best recommendation for travel in Mexico City. It’s very safe and very cheap! The Mercado Jamaica is about a 13-minute ride from La Condesa, Roma Norte or the Historic Centre. And it will only cost you about 35 pesos or $1.35 USD! Although traffic in Mexico City is as bad as you might have heard, just avoid peak hours and you should be fine to avoid the worst of the traffic.

Metro

The market is also easily accessible by the metro. If you are departing from La Condesa or Roma you can hop on brown line #9. Get on at Chilpancingo station and take the train four stops to Jamaica station (about 12 minutes). If you are departing from the Historic Centre, you’ll need to take two different metro lines. First, depart from the #2 blue line from Tasqueña station and take it three stops to Chabacano station (6 mins). Transfer from here to the brown line #9 and continue one stop towards Jamaica station (3 mins). The metro costs only 5 pesos, and if you’re up for more of an adventurous journey, this is an easy and quick trip. But always be sure to practice caution on the metro and keep your valuables safe and not on display.

History of the Jamaica Market

Although you might read the word “Jamaica” and think of the country, Jamaica is actually the Spanish word for hibiscus flower. So the name of the market translates into the Hibiscus Market. The Mercado Jamaica was officially established in the 1950s when the eastern part of Mexico City was a governmental focus for modernization and revitalization. But outdoor marketplaces have existed in this spot for hundreds of years. Being located to the east of the city, near the chinampas of Lake Xochimilco, this part of town has always had wonderful access to the fruits, vegetables and flowers that have been grown there for centuries.

Tips

Cash is King

Bring cash with you to the market to buy your flowers and food as almost everywhere is cash only. But remember not to carry too much money on you when arriving as you need to be aware of pickpockets in such a busy environment. I would bring about 500 pesos ($25 USD) per person, which is more than enough if you want to buy yourself a lovely bouquet, grab some food and get a little left if you see a souvenir or two you’d like to purchase. 

Come Hungry!

Despite the fact that we are going to what is known for being a “flower market” this is still a foodie’s paradise so come on an empty stomach and get ready to eat. If you get full but want to come back for more food later you can always grab a bite to eat to start, then explore the flower market, and return to the starting point where you can sample the rest of the eateries you didn’t try earlier.

How to Keep Safe

This market is slightly outside the tourist centre, so you should be more cautious about your belongings. But no more than you should be in any busy marketplace anywhere in the world. Keeping aware of your surroundings is the most important thing you can do. If you carry a backpack, you can wear it in front of you. And always be sure to keep any valuables zipped inside inner pockets. Remember, this is a very busy, working market, so be sure not to stand in the way of people going about their business. Large carts and trucks often go up and down the aisles making deliveries, so keep a lookout for them.

Notes on Photography

I took many pictures here, had my phone out, and never felt unsafe. But I would advise you to take out your phone or camera, snap a few pictures and then put it away instead of just keeping it in your hand. This is probably not 100% necessary, but I always lean on the side of caution.

Be sure you keep a keen eye open for the “No Photography” signs around the market. There are several reasons for this. Some florists are wary of other sellers stealing their designs so they don’t allow photos of their products. Other vendors might have personal reasons for not being photographed, spiritual or simply, for privacy. No matter the reason, please respect their wishes. Many places in the market do not have these signs, so you’ll be able to get all the pictures you need elsewhere. If in doubt, it’s always polite to ask before taking a picture.

When To Go

The best time for fresh flowers in Mexico City is from April to July. Although flowers are available year-round from greenhouses, this time of year is when you can get the flowers for the cheapest price as they are the most abundant. I would advise you to avoid going here on the weekends. This is when the market is the busiest and most chaotic. I found that visiting on the weekdays meant there was still lots to see, buy, and eat, but the atmosphere was a bit more laid back. Because this market also exports flowers around the world and throughout the country, this is the only market in Mexico City that is open 24 hours a day! So you can be sure that no matter when you visit there is something to see!

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Holidays

If you find yourself in Mexico City during the Day of the Dead festivities, Mercado Jamaica is incredible to check out. It is the main supplier of hundreds of thousands of flowers that adorn ofrendas all over the city. The market is filled to bursting during this time of year, with truckloads of marigolds coming to and from every day! Marigolds are called ‘cempaxuchitl‘ in Spanish, which means “flower of the dead.” Since they are one of the most fragile flowers they have been known to represent the fragility of life itself.

Another fantastic time of year to come to Mercado Jamaica is at Christmas time. Even in Mexico City, you’ll find hundreds of evergreen Christmas trees lining the outside of the marketplace, ready to be picked up by excited families to nestle their presents under. Inside you’ll find hundreds of poinsettias, as this Christmas flower is locally grown in Mexico. The piñatas are a real showstopper at Christmas time, and you’ll find one in almost every household. Piñatas were traditionally designed in the shape of a seven coned star, with each spoke representing one of the seven deadly sins. Bashing the piñata was the symbol of good triumphing over evil and the fruit and candy inside the reward for leading a good, Christian life.

Helpful Spanish

Here are some handy dandy Spanish words to help you out at the Market! The colours will be very helpful to learn so you can ask for the right coloured flowers to suit your bouquet.

The Layout of the Market

The Mercado Jamaica is divided into different areas called “carrils” which means lanes. The northernmost building is almost totally devoid of flowers and is primarily where you’ll find amazing street food. I’ve noted it as the “food market” on the map below. There are maps inside the market but they are few and far between so I went ahead and made my own. As you wander south, you’ll enter Carril #4. As you can see from the map below, marked in green, this section of the market sells “Articulos de 1ra Necesidad” which is like saying grocery items. This is where you’ll find produce, candies, dried peppers, toys and piñatas.

It’s not until the southernmost sections, Carril #2 and #1 that you’ll start to see the true enormity of the flower market. Before you can even see the flowers, you’ll know you’ve arrived. There are two sets of public washrooms in the market. Be sure to bring a 5 peso coin with you as they usually charge a small fee to use the washroom and get a handful of toilet paper when you go inside.

If you arrive via the metro, you should come out of the station on the north side of the market, along Avenue Morelos. If you’re arriving by Uber, set your destination to the northeast corner of the market. At the corner of Avenue Morelos and H. Congreso de la Union.

Carnitas Paty

Your first stop should be at a long communal table right at the front of the market outside the food stall Carnitas Paty. Pig heads hang in the butcher shops down the aisle, and you know right away you’re in the place to get pork! Carnitas Paty specializes in different cuts of meat served up on a double stack of fresh corn tortillas. I would go for the Costilla (ribs), lengua (tongue – which, yes, is amazing) or the trompa (roasted pork). 

All the tacos come topped with raw onions and cilantro. While I thought I’d had carnitas before, after tasting this, it felt like I had never eaten them before in my life. This was the best-tasting taco I’ve ever eaten, and I still dream about it! All their tacos cost 30 pesos, and you can sample the various salsaa spread out on the table for an extra kick.

Tepache

To pair with your tacos, you must try their tepache. Tepache is a fermented pineapple drink made from the peel and the rind of pineapples and refined cane sugar. It has that tang you get from other fermented drinks like kombucha. It is super sweet but delicious and definitely helps cleanse the palette after fatty pork tacos. It’s really the perfect combination! You can get a litre for 30 pesos, a half litre for 15 pesos or just a glass for 12 pesos.

Huaraches Rossy

Beside the Carnitas stand, you can find another stall called Huaraches Rossy. Huaraches are a Mexican street food staple made from a piece of masa dough. The dough is mixed with pinto beans and rolled into an oblong, similar to the shape of the sole of a Huarache shoe, hence the name. The dough is then fried on the comal (grill) and crowned with various toppings.

The huaraches at Huaraches Rossy are known for their sides consisting of a slice of fresh avocado, a cooked nopal pad, fried greens onions and lemon. You can get your Huarache with fried eggs (huevos), cheese (queso), ribs (Costilla), chicken breast (pechuga) and more. My favourite option if you arrive in the morning is fried eggs and cheese. Each huarache costs 65 pesos or $3.30 USD.

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Mariscos Los Paisas

One of the most famous street food stalls in Mercado Jamaica is Mariscos Los Paisas. They are best known for their famous tacos Al pastor made with octopus instead of the traditional pork shoulder. The stacked octopi are spinning around the spit as the chefs coat them in that iconic red al pastor sauce. If you only want to try the octopus tacos, you can simply order one of those, but my recommendation (if you’re a seafood lover) is to go for the trio of tacos. This consists of Carnitas de Atún (tuna tacos), Pulpo al Pastor (octopus al pastor) and Suadero con Camaron (stewed shrimp tacos). Although Mexico City is far from the ocean, they still have access to the fantastic seafood that the oceanside towns are known for. And this is one of the best places in the city to give these dishes a try.

Piñata Market

Walking deeper into the market, into the next building (Carril #4) you will start to see large stalls selling hundreds and hundreds of pinatas. Mercado Jamaica is known for its huge piñatas selection. Design range from traditional stars to cartoon characters. And I even saw a covid one! What a perfect thing to bash away at, a way of taking out all the pent-up frustration over the loss of the last two years. These stands also sell lots of toys, party decorations and little candies perfect to stuff inside the pinatas. 

Fresh Fruit Stands

In this part of the market, you’ll also find rows and rows of vendors selling fresh fruit and vegetables. Many different fruits are stacked high up on tables, they look like little gems as they are so brightly coloured and shiny. Some vacuum sealed inside pre-made fruit baskets ready to be presented as a delicious gift.

There is a myriad of different fruit on sale at the market. Many of which I had never even heard of before, let alone tasted. If you’re in town for a few days, I implore you to just go out and buy a selection of different fruits to try! Even if you have no idea what they are, they cost very little, and it’s so much fun to do a little taste test at home to see which ones are your favourite.

Fruit doesn’t need to be cooked so there’s no need for a kitchen. But you will need a good knife to cut into most fruits. I often ask the vendors if they can cut it open and then put it in a bag. If not, you can always find a vendor in the market who sells kitchen knives.

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What to Try

If you’re interested in a selection of my favourite options, I would start with the Soursop (or guanabana). This fruit is tangy, sweet, and, as the name indicates, sour. It’s a large, green fruit with a hard rind and big spikes. You also should find some black zapote, which tastes like chocolatey permission pudding! It is indeed black when you cut into it, and you can eat it out of the rind with only a spoon. The black zapote is actually green on the outside and similar in shape to a persimmon.

Chirimoya also blew my mind! The Chirimoya is also called the “custard apple” as the flesh inside the fruit is soft and the colour of custard. But it tastes like a strawberry blended with a kiwi. Mark Twain is known for calling the Chirimoya “the most delicious fruit known to man.” It is about the size of a large apple and has what almost looks like green scales on the outside.

Make sure you also see out some mamey fruit if it’s in season. Mamey is a fruit with brown, hairy skin, but it looks like a sweet potato with the pit of an avocado when you cut into it. It is like a combination of apricot, sweet potato and peach. I love the flavour, especially in a smoothie. 

Jamaica Flowers

As the name of the market suggests, you’ll find lots of dried Jamaica (hibiscus) flowers. They can be found in huge, dark purple piles hidden away inside large barrels. The flower heads themselves look like a spikey, shrivelled version of the fresh flower. Jamaica or hibiscus flowers came to Mexico after colonization and actually originated from Africa. The most popular way to use dried flowers in Mexico is in Aguas Frescas. Aguas Fresca translates to “fresh water” and are amazingly refreshing beverages made from, water mixed with a variety of different flavours. The most popular flavour is Jamaica. The drink is made by boiling dried flowers (like you’d do with ta) and mixing them with water, sugar, ginger, and cinnamon. The flavour is incredible and definitely one of my favourite ways to compliment a spicy taco. 

One of my friends also often adds just one dried flower to her pot of cardamon tea, and let me tell you, it’s life-changing! So be sure to grab yourself some dried hibiscus flowers when you’re in the market. If you’re travelling back to the US or Canada, just make sure they are in a sealed bag, but many places in the market do sell them like this if you ask.

Chorizo Verde

Among the fruits and vegetable stands, there is a butcher shop that sells one of the most unique tacos I’ve ever had! You’ll spot their shop by the bright yellow exterior, but there is no store sign outside. You’ll be able to recognize it by the large display of green herbs laid out beneath the meats on sale right out front. As well to fresh meat to bring home for dinner, they also have fresh tacos to sample right there in the Market. Order yourself up a green chorizo taco and take a seat on the small tables out front.

The green chorizo is made from pork sausage, mixed with a blend of fresh green veggies like spinach and lettuce. Then zesty green herbs are added to ramp the flavour up. Anything from cilantro, thyme, marjoram, whatever is in season. After this, they add green chillies (because heat is a staple of the chorizo sausage) and the most important and unique ingredient – NUTS! Yes, that’s right, they add anything from peanuts to pumpkins seeds or almonds to the meat. I cannot explain how unbelievable the taste of this taco is; you just have to try it for yourself. 

Flower Market

As you head further south into the market, you’ll finally start to smell the aroma of fresh flowers. Follow your nose towards the brightly coloured flowers which seem to almost erupt from the ground. Walking around the flower market is the best kind of chaos. People are milling about, grabbing cartfuls of flowers for their stands in the city and small bouquets for their homes. Voices cry over one other as people haggled for the best prices. 

Enormous sunflowers, roses, chrysanthemums, gerbera daisies and lilies line the edges of the aisles in huge brightly coloured buckets. A dozen long stem roses were on sale for only $50 pesos, which is $2.50 USD! A dozen sunflowers about 6 feet tall were on sale for $90 pesos, just 4.60. I couldn’t believe the prices, and it took everything in me not to just go nuts and buy it all. Prices were the best when I visited as it was during the Springtime. If you visit in the winter expect prices to be slightly higher as the flowers are less abundant and need to be ground in greenhouses as opposed to the chinampas.

Florists

As you move through the wholesale market, you’ll come into another section that sells MASSIVE pre-made bouquets from a myriad of different florists. These monumental displays are meant for funerals, communions, weddings and quinceañeras. The flowers are formed into giant hearts, large crosses, and baskets as big as a small child. Apparently, one of the most popular reasons people buy these huge floral arrangements is to apologize for cheating on their wives or girlfriends. The bigger the bouquet, the more sorry you’ll appear. Especially to the neighbours who can’t help but notice you walking home, with this typical guilty display.

La Güera Elotes

At the end of the market, right near the exit doors onto Guillermo Prieto street, is a small shop called La Güera Elotes, selling popular Mexican street food, but elevated to another level. Esquites are fire-roasted corn kernels stewed in lard, mixed with aromatic herbs and Arbol chillies. I’ve had esquites many times before, as they are one of my favourite street snacks, but none as delicious as the ones we got here! There are definitely some secret ingredients at work here. A small cup costs $20 pesos, a medium is $22, and a large is $25. 

You can also get Elotes, which is the same idea, but instead, the corn is grilled on the cob. They offer a specialty here called ‘dorielotes,’ which covers the corn cob mayo which is rolled in crushed Doritos! The store is also famous for its pan de elote, or cornbread. Unlike American cornbread, which is more of a savoury treat, their cornbread is like a cake. It’s very sweet and absolutely fantastic! It’s a bit dry, so be sure to have a drink on hand.

Mural

Before leaving the market, make sure you stop outside along Highway Congreso de la Unión to see the incredible murals painted along the outside of the Mercado Jamaica. Muralism in Mexico is such a popular thing to see everywhere you go. But the murals outside this market are so enormous, and it’s amazing to see the works of art that span the entirety of the building! There is always a new work of art to discover as they change throughout the year. To the delight of the vendors, everyday shoppers, tourists as well as the drivers who pass by on the highway on their way to work. Murals are truly such an incredible way to liven up a street and bring so much joy to an otherwise blank exterior. Much like flowers, that bring life into an otherwise bland space.

I hope you enjoyed this tour of Mercado Jamaica! It’s honestly one of my favourite markets in Mexico City and well worth the time it takes to get here. Despite being a little out of the way, there is so much to see and do here so you’ll really feel like it’s worth the 20-minute drive from the city centre. Let me know in the comment what your favourite market is either in Mexico City or around the world

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Self Guided Tour of Mercado Jamaica, the Best Flowers Market in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

The Museo Casa Estudio has been remarkably preserved and restored. It is open for visitors to come inside and explore, a chance to step into the intimate spaces where Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo painted, entertained and simply existed together, as apart. Come with us as we explore the entirety of the Museo Casa Estudio and learn more about the artists who lived here and the man who built this revolutionary property!

Guide to the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo

1. Location & Access
2. Admission & Hours
3. About Diego Rivera
4. About Frida Kahlo
5. Juan O'Gorman
6. Modernist Architecture
   • Functionalism
7. Designing the Casa Estudio
   • Life inside the Casa Estudio
   • Studio as Museum
8. Exterior Foyer
   • The Bathrooms
9. Diego's House
   • 2nd Floor Bedroom
10. Diego's Studio
    • Mezzanine
    • Rooftop
    • The Bridge of Diego and Frida's Love
11. Frida's Studio
    • What the Water Gave Me
12. The O'Gorman Guest House
    • Dining Room Mural

Location & Access

The Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo is located in the neighbourhood of San Angel, in the far south of the city centre. To access the museum, you can take an Uber or taxi directly into the district’s centre. The Uber fare costs about $7 USD and takes about 20-30 minutes (depending on traffic) from the centre of Mexico City. If you’d prefer to take public transit, you can hop on the metro towards Miguel Angel de Quevedo Station. From here, you’ll have to change to one of the city’s metro buses that will take you directly into the Altavista suburbs where the museum is located.

Admission & Hours

The museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday, 11 am to 5 pm. The price of admission is $40 pesos for adults, but children under 13 and seniors are free. Admission is free for everyone on Sundays.

About Diego Rivera

Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo are perhaps two of the most well-known artists to come out of Mexico. It is perhaps no coincidence that the two geniuses would find themselves caught in a passionate web of love, art and fiery drama. Diego Rivera was born in 1886 in Guanajuato City, Mexico. When he was born, he came out of the womb along with his twin brother. Sadly, his brother Carlos died two years after they were born. Twins have this unspoken, deep, almost soulful connection with each other and this loss so early in Diego’s life perhaps touched the young boy with trauma and pain that it seems many infamous artists carry with them. Diego started to draw at only three, just after his brother died. Perhaps as a means to express his grief.

Mexican Muralism

His talents only grew from then, and at the age of ten, he went to study art at the San Carlos Academy of Fine Arts in Mexico City. Rivera travelled to Europe after flourishing at the school in Mexico City. It was there he would refine his unique style of painting under the influence of modern artists like Pablo Picasso and looked to the works of Paul Gauguin and Henri Matisse for inspiration. Rivera returned to Mexico City in 1922 as he had been commissioned by the government to head up their new muralism program. The project was created to promote aimed to National pride through murals that told the history of Mexico that even the working class, illiterate masses could interpret.

About Frida Kahlo

While Diego was painting murals all over Mexico City, Frida Kahlo was just a young girl with her own struggles. Frida was born in 1907 in Coyoacan, a small neighbourhood just outside the centre of Mexico City. Similar to Rivera, Frida had her own ordeals early on in life. She was afflicted with polio at only six years old. This meant that her right leg would always be shorter and thinner than the left, a disability that would affect her for the rest of her life.

But Frida never let this illness defeat her spirit despite being kept isolated at home at such a young age. She looked up to her artistic father, who was a famous photographer, and it was him that inspired her to start painting. While at home, her father taught her things she would never learn so early in school, everything from philosophy, literature and, of course, art and photography. When she went back to school, she flourished, as learning was something that truly excited her.

The Bus Accident

But just as her life was taking off once more, she was hit, literally, by another setback. On her way back from school on the day, in the centre of Mexico City, just a few blocks from where Rivera was painting, the bus she was riding on was hit by a streetcar. A large iron handrail pierced her pelvis, broke her spine in three places and crushed her right leg, as well as a litany of other injuries. She stayed in the hospital for months and had to be put into a plaster corset to aid her spine and chest bones in healing. This meant months of bedrest with nothing to do. Nothing to do but paint. Once more, her father encouraged her to turn her pain into art. Despite these life-altering incidents, she responded with the same vigour for the life she refused to lose despite these accidents.

Frida and Diego’s Marriage

After recovering, Frida discovered the thing she wanted to do for the rest of her life, and that was to paint. She was insistent on becoming the best painter she could be, so she sought out the advice of the greatest Mexican painter she knew, Diego Rivera. Rivera was immediately taken aback by this energetic and bold girl and her obvious talent. Despite being married already (to two different women), Frida and Diego started a relationship. They would be married in 1929 at a wedding her parents entitled “the marriage between an elephant and a dove.“

The couple were immediately taken out of Mexico City and moved to the United States. Rivera had to paint several commissions in San Francisco, Detroit, and New York for the famous Rockefellers. But they knew they would return home to Mexico City and wanted a beautiful hacienda to come back to. This is where their friend, architect and artist Juan O’Gorman would come in!

Juan O’Gorman

O’Gorman had been studying functionalism, inspired by the Swiss designer Charles-Édouard Jeanneret, known as Le Corbusier. O’Gorman was enthusiastic about bringing this modernist style to his home in Mexico City. He saw Mexico City as being a hub for modern thinking and exquisite architecture. The old Hacienda Goicoechea, now the famous San Angel Inn, had sold off the large expanse of their land to become residential housing. O’Gorman loved the neighbourhood and purchased the land currently being used as the tennis courts of the nearby hotel. 

Modernist Architecture

O’Gorman had plans to turn these two plots into the first modernist home in Mexico City. But when he displayed his plan it was very controversial. Most homes here are super traditional, fitting into that 18th century colonial style, and this new modernist vision wasn’t an appealing sight to the neighbours. But despite them turning their noses up at this new technique, O’Gorman solidered on. He built one home as a proof of concept. This home still stands today as the Museo Casa Estudio’s guest house.

Functionalism

Functionalism was a style defined by buildings that were designed around their purpose and function and revolted against excess decoration that didn’t serve a objective. In many European functionalist buildings, glass, steel and concrete were essential elements in their construction. In Mexico, in addition to these materials, O’Gorman wanted to incorporate clay and natural plants into the buildings. Instead of building fences out of wood or wrought iron, he planted rows of tall cacti along the roadside. These elements were native to the environment and followed the functionalist ethos. He would use other plants to create borders that looked almost like they had naturally grown up around the house.

Another element significant in functionalism is using practical elements as expressive decoration. A great example of this is the exposed helicoidal staircases that swirl up the sides of the houses. The stairs are a means of access and yet bring an interesting spacial element to the house’s exterior. Water tanks and drainage pipes also provide dynamic structural details around the house. These were all painted a contrasting orange colour and created this framing effect. Instead of looking too industrial, they manage to have their own architectural charm. But they are, in fact, used for rainwater drainage so are not just ornamental.

Diego’s house features a saw-tooth roof design. This design, while it might look decorative, is actually used to allow natural light into the interior while blocking out the heat of direct sun exposure. This was a technique popular inside industrial factories as early as the 16th century, before electiral lighting could be used to illuminate the interiors. It remains today as one of the most ingenious techniques to bring natural light into the interiors.

Designing the Casa Estudio

When Diego and Frida saw what O’Gorman had created, they quickly decided to purchase the entire property and commissioned him to build them twin buildings. Each one would act as both a residence and a studio, unique to each artist. The two buildings were designed as a pair but also as two oppositional designs. Tied together through the consistent elements of functionalism and a bridge that brought the building together at the top.

Diego’s studio is painted off-white and rust-red. Simple, natural colours. On the other hand, Frida’s studio is painted the same ethereal cobalt blue as her Casa Azul. Both studios feature floor-to-ceiling windows, giving the interior spaces an indoor/outdoor feeling. But are protected from the elements, meaning you can paint inside while feeling like you’re out en plein air. The ideal of these twin structures is eerily similar to Diego and his brother Carlos. Connected together despite the fates of their lives going in two very different directions.

Life inside the Casa Estudio

Construction on the houses ended in 1932, and the couple moved in 1934. Diego and Frida lived here from 1934 to 1939. In 1939, they divorced, and Frida moved home to Casa Azul. Diego kept the house and continued living and painting here during their separation. After their divorce, the couple actually got back together, only 9-months later. But even after this reconciliation, Frida preferred to remain in the Casa Azul.

After Frida’s passing in 1954, Diego would continue to live in the studio house full time. He treasured his time in his home until his death on November 24, 1957. Rivera died in his studio, and his body remained there as friends and family came to sit vigil inside to mourn the loss. After this, his body was moved to the Palacio de Bellas Artes for his grand state funeral. 

Studio as Museum

After his death, Diego’s daughters inherited the houses. When they moved in, their went about drastically changing some of the most iconic aspects of the house and making many ugly additions. They removed the cacti and installed a stone fence. They also demolished the bridge that connected the buildings, one of the most important aspects of the house. Years later, the houses were gifted to the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes to be enjoyed by the public. Restoration began in 1995 to bring back the original nature of the homes and preserve their architectural value. All the additions and fencing were removed, and the house seemed to breathe a sigh of relief.

Exterior Foyer

One of the most wonderful things about functionalist-style houses is that they sit on stilts. These stilts are called pilotis, slender columns that support an upper level. When you walk into the property, the entire exterior courtyard feels like an open-air foyer. But with wonderful shaded areas under those upper levels to escape the sun’s heat (essential in Mexico City!) This open air foyer really exposes the incredible landscape architecture that O’Gorman created around the property. It feels like a gorgeous garden floating below.

Another enchanting thing to study while walking around the exterior are the exposed staircases. The spiral staircase which curls its way up the side of Diego’s studio is a wonderful geometric cement column contrasted against the solid red walls. The stairs almost have this musical-like curvature that flows out of the house.

The only exterior staircase in Frida’s house leads from the second-floor studio up to the rooftop. She would use this pathway to cross the thin bridge which connected to Diego’s house. Especially considering her frail condition and problems with her legs, it’s impressive she would brave such a dangerous-looking crossing. Especially when it originally was designed without any handrails!

The Bathrooms

Standing in the coutyard, you’ll see a smaller blue building, set behind Frida’s house. It looks almost like a minature version of her studio. Today, this tiny structure houses the public washrooms that visitors can use during their stay. Although you might think this was an addition when the museum was built, this building is original! It was designed by O’Gorman as a photography studio meant for Frida’s father. Even now, just as then, nothing is wasted. Functionalism reigns eternal.

Diego’s House

You enter Diego’s House first, via the exterior spiral staircase. The large, mostly empty room you enter on the first floor was used initially for Diego to display the artworks he had up for sale. His personal art gallery. Today, the space houses just a few remaining pieces from Diego’s collections of Pre-Columbian artifacts. Today the majority of his collections are housed in the Museo Anahuacalli.

During their marriage, the Museo Anahuacalli was a pipe dream of both Rivera and Kahlo. They both adored collecting these precious pieces of Mexican history and wanted to share them with the public. Rivera had started construction on this project just before his death. But it was O’Gorman who would see it through as the chief architect in charge of achieveing Rivera’s vision. Much of Rivera’s muralism was influenced by these pre-Columbian figurines. In Rivera’s art we can see the intense facial expressions and powerful geometric shapes reflected in these figurines.

2nd Floor Bedroom

Head back up the stairs, either using the smaller interior staircase or the outer curved stairs. The second level is where we find the painter’s studio and bedroom. The little room you’ll see upon entering is Rivera’s tiny bedroom. In functionalist buildings proportions of bedrooms were much smaller than we would expect. This was because they were seen as rooms only used for sleep and therefore didn’t require a great use of space. This preserved more capacity in areas like the studio which was where the artist spent most of his time.

Plus, the painter wasn’t a fan of sleeping unless it was with women. The room is designed to have only a tiny row of windows along the ceiling. This allowed only a small amount of light to flow inside. This meant the artist could get some sleep no matter what time of day.

The room is still laid out like it’s awaiting the return of it’s owner. Diego’s shoes are sitting on the floor as if he is about to get out of bed. Besides this, there are also his bedpans left here since his death. Atop the bedframe is Diego’s suitcase, as he was a world traveller. On the bedside table, you can also see a collection of his keychains and wallets. All the while the room is watched over by a series of papier-mache figures.

Diego’s Studio

Stepping from the hallway, make your way into the great studio. Immediately you’ll be overcome by the light that pours into theroom from the double-height windows on the north wall. From inside you can also study the effect of the saw-tooth roof windows that fill even the ceiling with light. Diego’s studio is bursting with natural energy. The trees on the other side of the windows almost look like they’re growing inside the house. The separation from indoors to outdoor is only a thin veil in here.

The studio still contains the original brushes and pigments which Rivera used to make his murals. They sit beside his easel like he is about to walk back into the room mid-painting. The painting on the easel is a portrait of Dolores Del Rio, a famous Mexican actress. Diego once said of Del Rio;

The most beautiful, the most gorgeous of the west, east, north and south. I’m in love with her as 40 million Mexicans and 120 million Americans who can’t be wrong.

Diego Rivera

Books, artisan ceramics and pottery, and little curios line the green painted shelves at the back of the room. Glass jars are silhouetted against the window panes. Inside powdered pigment still sit, waiting to be turned into paints. Diego’s studio really feels like a highly intimate space. Each one of the objects was bought by Diego as they caught his eye or gifted to him by a friend and lovingly put on display to be treasured. One of the most interesting decor found on the shelves is a copy of Diego Rivera’s death mask. Allowing him to still watche over all those and anyone who enters.

Judases

Filling the corners of the studio are these huge papier-mâché figures. Images of devils, skeletons and expressive people lean against the walls like inanimate puppets. These are called “Judases” and are popular formed of Mexican folk art. They were originally created as a part of the celebrations before Easter. The figures were made to look like the image of Judas, the Traitor. They would then take this resemblance of the great betrayer and set him on fire, to rid the world of his evil spirit. As years passed and the tradition became more popular, the figures began to take the forms of other, also unfavourable people or things. This could be anything from images of devils, demons, politicians, criminals and, in some cases, even disliked shopkeepers. Today the papier-mache dolls are stuffed with fireworks and blown up on the street. Much to the enjoyment of the onlookers.

But Rivera didn’t blow them up. Instead, he kept them as souvenirs of the local artisans. Although the simple craftsmen who made them might not have seen them as high art, Diego saw these as treasures to keep forever. Their highly expressive faces now look out over visitors from all studio corners.

Mezzanine

Walking back up the stairs, you enter the small mezzanine that looks over the studio. A small table between the two chairs is set in the corner, the perfect place to relax and watch the great painter at work. On the table is a portrait of Diego’s beloved, Frida. One can imagine this would have been where Frida herself would have stood to look down on her husband after coming over from her side of the house. Sometimes finding him hard at work…and other times, and sadly so, in the throes of passion with another woman, much to her dismay. In fact, it may have been right here that Frida discovered Diego cheating on her with her younger sister Cristina. There is no doubt that this house was a place of intensity from all angles.

The mezzanine is also home to Rivera’s office, just in the corner, beside the door to the rooftop. His green leather desk features a old phone, a typewriter and more pre-Colombian art covering the walls.

Rooftop

From the small office, you step out onto the rooftop, the neighbourhood of San Angel opening up all around you. During the Springtime, the purple flowers of the Jacaranda trees light up the skyline.

The Bridge of Diego and Frida’s Love

Although Frida and Diego had a passionate relationship, this firey love also resulted in both positive and negative intensity. When things were good, they were great, but when it was bad, it was very, very bad. So for both their sakes, having a separate working space where one could get away from the other was imperative. But the two buildings are connected by a large bridge on the top. O’Gorman named the bridge “the bridge of Diego and Frida’s love.” A symbol that, at the end of the day, they still found a way to come together and connect. Even when things were dire.

A narrow bridge connects the two buildings, the red-painted railings all you have to hold onto as you cross over. While Frida’s staircase has been closed down, too dangerous for the public to continually cross, you can imagine how the two lovers must have met up here to look out over the city and take in the night air. Even today the rest of the buildings in the area remain at a lower level to the rooftop of the Museo Casa Estudio, making you feel like you have this private oasis all to yourself.

Frida’s Studio

To get into Frida’s studio, you need to walk back down to the courtyard and enter on the ground level. Sadly, there is not much to see inside Frida’s house. Much of what once existed here has been moved to the Frida Kahlo museum in the Casa Azul. If you’re interested in learning more about the life and art of Frida Kahlo, you should definitely check it out, just over in Coyoacan. But there is one reason to go into the house: see the bathroom on the second floor. Sounds odd but stay with me!

What the Water Gave Me

This is where Frida lay when she was inspired to paint “What the Water Gave Me” in 1938. Like toys in a child’s bathtub, Frida painted the images that swam in her mind on top of the water. Memories of her life float around her; the only slice of reality is the cast iron bathtub framing the scene and her little toes sticking out of the water. The bathtub which inspired this scene can still be found in the house. If you’re a bather like me, you’ll know sitting in the bath really is where the imagination comes alive. It’s the best place to sit and think. Shower people will disagree with me I’m sure, but for me, a bath is a perfect way to relax and reflect. And it seems like Frida agrees.

The O’Gorman Guest House

The third large building on the property, located slightly below the other two homes, was the couple’s guest house. It was here that family and friends could stay in their own private apartments. But when the house was being built, it was used almost as a test for O’Gorman’s vision. To separate this house from the main studios, you’ll see another line of cacti fencing and steps leading down, surrounded by lush agave plants.

Construction on his house started in 1929, two years before the dual studio. The most impressive part of the building is the study on the first floor. Three of the four walls inside this part of the house are covered in floor-to-ceiling glass panels. And in fact, the entire glass wall opens up like a giant window. It’s pretty dangerous by today’s standards, as you can just walk right off, but what an impact it makes! The windows open up the space, and it feels like you’re floating in the air. The panels of glass are slightly more opaque on the lower four panels to give some privacy to the interior while still filling it with light.

The exterior ground level connects to the study via a wide-sweeping spiral staircase. Once more, without handrails. Looks gorgeous but can’t be very practical. A more private (and safe for visitors) internal staircase takes guests inside the private spaces which contain a small bedroom, bathroom, dining room and kitchen.

Dining Room Mural

One of the other exciting things to study here in the house is the remnants of the dining room mural that was once painted onto the walls. The mural was called “There is quite a difference between philosophy and science,” painted by O’Gorman. It depicts a stunning and vibrant Mexican landscape dotted with images of science and industry. On the left of the frame, there is an image of a fragile skeleton. This is juxtaposed with a beautiful naked Mexican woman who sits opposite. She sets aside a cup bursting with gorgous fresh fruits. The message is that one must have progress to flourish and grow. Otherwise, you will wither and die, like the old skeleton.

The fresco was only discovered in 2012 when a restoration team found traces of the original mural. When the house was sold off after Diego’s death, the mural was removed from the wall, purchased by the Banco Nacional de México for its private collection. Today you can see a photograph of the real painting beside the sketches found on the house’s walls. While I’m sure it’s well preserved in the bank’s museum, it would be more impressive to see it in situ here in the dining room. Maybe one day!

Thank you for joining us on this self-guided tour of the Museo Casa Estudio of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The Museo Casa Estudio is a wonderfully immersive space to explore, and I hope this guide helped you learn more about all the secrets hidden in plain sight. Let me know in the comments what your favourite discovery was!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Everything you Need to Know About the Incredible Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Although the area doesn’t have the draw of big tourist attractions like the Historic Centre, this is the place to come to see everyday life. A walk around this incredible neighbourhood with its gorgeous architecture, peaceful atmosphere and fantastic art and culture makes it even more extraordinary than the tourist centre! There is something so earnest about this place. So real and yet fantastically romantic. So while it might not jump out at you as a place you “need to visit,” I would absolutely say you do!

Outside of the busy market on Saturday, this neighbourhood feels almost untouched by time. Walking down the little side street and just letting curiosity lead you will bring you to the most incredible destinations. But if you’re looking for a guide to the best of what to see and do here in San Ángel, I’ve got you covered!

Table Of Contents

1. Location & Access
2. History
3. Walking Tour
4. Parque de la Bombilla
5. Restaurante El Cardenal
6. Mercado De Flores
7. Templo del Carmen de San Ángel
8. Museo de El Carmen
9. Plaza del Carmen
10. San Angel Art Market
11. Casa del Mayorazgo de Fagoaga
12. Bishop's House 
13. Plaza San Jacinto
14. Saturday Art Market
15. Handicraft Shops
16. Museo Casa del Risco
17. Antiques Fair
18. Bazaar Sábado
19. Villa San Jacinto
20. Parroquia San Jacinto
21. Plaza de Los Cielos
22. Plaza de los Arcángeles
23. Casa de Los Marqueses de Selva Nevada
24. Casa Blanca
25. Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo
26. San Angel Inn

Location & Access

San Ángel is located south of Mexico City, just west of the popular Coyoacán district. Pairing a visit to San Ángel with a trip to Coyoacán is the perfect way to spend an entire day. Away from the crowded city centre and up above all the hustle and bustle. I would advise getting up nice and early for your visit to San Ángel. Nothing starts the day better than brunch at restaurant El Cardenal. Plus an early start means you can get the most out of your day.

Uber

The best way to get to San Ángel is via Uber. Anywhere from the centre of the city, outside busy times of the day, it will only take about 25-30 minutes to arrive here. And generally, a ride will cost around $7 USD. Our first stop on the walking tour is in the beautiful Parque de la Bombilla, so you can put that down as your routed destination.

Metro

If you prefer to take the metro, you can arrive at Miguel Ángel de Quevedo Station. It is only a 10-minute walk from the station to our tour starting point. All metro stations in Mexico City have a different icon corresponding to their station. This was initially conceptualized to ensure that illiterate people could identify the other stations on a map.

The icon for Miguel Ángel de Quevedo is a large fruit tree. Miguel Ángel de Quevedo was a famous Mexican engineer who studied Mexican flora. He was nicked named the “tree apostle,” hence the station’s icon. But also considering this area was once rich with orchards, it also seems fitting. Just a little hint at the colonia’s history right from the get-go!

History

The neighbourhood, which is now San Ángel, was initially one of the wealthiest agricultural plots in ancient Tenochtitlan. Tenochtitlan was the capital of the great Aztec empire. Here there was an abundant source of water from the nearby Magdalena River. The area was called Tenanitla, or “walled in place,” in the Nahuatl language. The name was inspired by the volcanic rock bed that surrounded the area. It is also called Pedregal, formed by the eruption of the Xitle Volcano two thousand years ago. The volcanic bed formed a kind of wall around the land which helped retain the water from the river.

The Monasteries

When the Spanish invaded, they took the land in San Ángel for their own. It was here they established a series of monasteries. The most important of which was the San Jacinto monastery, which gave the area its first Spanish name; San Jacinto Tenanitla.

The next monastery to be built was the El Carmen monastery, built by the Carmelites in 1597. Inside the monastery, the monks opened a small school. But most of the land surrounding the church was used to plant a large expanse of orchards. The orchards flourished due to fertile soil and access to water. At one time, there were over 13,000 trees that sprouted up around the community. The school and orchards were named after San Ángel Mártir, the first members of the Order of Carmel. People would marvel at the orchards and their harvest would bring in a lot of money to the order and the area. The popularity was such that eventually, people would simply refer to the neighbourhood as San Ángel. And soon that become the de facto name for the area.

San Angel as Retreat

In the 18th century, wealthy farming families began to seek larger plots of land outside of the city center. These families began to build some of the most spectacular mansions. Many still stand today as exemplary models of 18th-century architecture in Mexico City.

In the 19th century, the orchards and many of the religious institutions of San Ángel were destroyed in the Mexican-American War. The remainder of the farming lands and orchards were removed to make room for the expanding railway system in 1891. This left the area barren of all its agricultural potential which had once defined the barrio. While the city centre was building industrial factories, San Ángel remained untouched by progress and left as a relatively rural suburb. But it was just peace and quiet that, in the 1940s made it a popular country retreat for wealthy Mexican families. These families continued to preserve the historic homes they found. And kept the area as this precious gem that we can visit today!

Walking Tour

Your experience in San Ángel will be defined by the day of the week you choose to visit. If you come to San Ángel on the weekend, especially on Saturday for the Art Market, the streets are bursting with people. Car surge into this part of town, as locals love to come here on the weekend in droves. It’s not just for the tourists, in fact, I would say the locals outweigh tourists three to one. But outside of the weekend, San Ángel is a tranquil oasis. And you’ll find you often have parts of the city all to yourself. But the peace means you’ll have to skip the popular pop-up art market. Either way, there are so many things to do here, no matter when you arrive. The only day I’d say to avoid is Mondays as all the museums are closed.

Parque de la Bombilla

The best place to start your tour of the neighbourhood is in San Ángel’s grandiose Parque de la Bombilla. Mexico City is, in my opinion, the best city in the world for public parks. Each of them brings a new surprise. Filled with beauty, drama and artistry. And Parque de La Bombilla is one that I feel doesn’t get its fair due. In the centre of the park is a giant monument to Álvaro Obregón. Álvaro Obregón was the 46th president of Mexico, inaugurated in 1920. Sadly, Obregón was assassinated in 1928 inside La Bombilla restaurant, which once stood on this very spot. After his death, the restaurant was demolished to make room for a park built in his honour. The park’s unveiling took place in 1935, on the seventh anniversary of Obregón’s assassination.

The Obregón monument dominates the park. Towering over you like a lighthouse, drawing you in. A huge reflecting pool sits just in front, allowing the sun to cast its reflection down into the water, creating a mirror-like surface. In addition to the central monument, the park also boasts seven beautiful fountains, artistic garden beds and even various chess and checkers tables awaiting their daily players.

Socialist style architecture

The Obregón Monument is a socialist-style tower. Socialist-style architecture became somewhat of a trend in Mexico City in the early 20th century. Mexico was encouraged by the Russian Revolution of 1917. They admired how the shift was leaning towards the boots on the ground workers and peasants while rejecting the bourgeoisie and upper classes. As such, they were inspired by the architecture of the Soviet Union under the leadership of Joseph Stalin. The style is characterized by rigid, geometric shapes, sturdy columns and giant statues. Often built to commemorate great leaders of the country.

Obregón Monument

The Obregón Monument greets you with two statues, guarding either side of the giant steel doorway. These are the indigenous protectors, representing “Work” and “Fertility.” The monument’s centre features a large stairwell that climbs to the top of the tower. Inside was once the resting place of Obregón’s embalmed arm. The arm was since moved, but today, a marble copy stands in its place.

On either side of the monument, are two groups of sculptures. One represents the Allegory of the Sacrifice, the other the Allegory of Triumph; two defining characteristics of Obregón’s presidency. On the back of the memorial is the sculpture of the great Eagle of Mexico City. Its wings spread in front of a series of geometric Saguaro cacti.

Restaurante El Cardenal

Hopefully, the bright colours of the park have woken you up a bit and now it’s time for breakfast! Take a stroll up along Avenue de la Paz. This street leads you right into the historic heart of San Ángel. Here you’ll shortly arrive at our breakfast spot, Restaurante El Cardenal. Restaurante El Cardenal is an institution in Mexico City with multiple different locations. The San Ángel location is their newest expansion, opening in 2011. But it quickly became the go-to destination on Saturday and Sunday mornings.

El Cardenal History

El Cardenal was founded in 1969, the original location was just across the street from the Plaza de la Constitución. The founders were a large family who wanted to bring their love of traditional Mexican cuisine to an upscale setting. They saw that many households didn’t have time to make classic home-cooked dishes. But here in El Cardenal you can come and feel like you’re dining at your mother’s table.

One of the most luxurious parts of dining inside El Cardenal in San Ángel is the gorgeous architecture. The restaurant is set inside an old colonial mansion. The building was actually previous another restaurant but when it closed the house lay dormant for years. When El Cardenal bought the property they took great pains to restore the details of the home to their former glory. The stained glass windows and gleaming wood floors make just sitting inside such a joy to experience. The back of the restaurant features a glass window box that looks into the kitchen, so you can watch the chefs hard at work!

The El Cardenal Experience

Their breakfasts are among the most popular seatings, with wait times up to 40 minutes depending on the day. So the earlier you arrive, the better. This is because huge families come here all together on the weekend for a cheerful family brunch. Despite the wait, this amazing familial atmosphere is what makes this restaurant so special. Walking inside, we were treated like absolute royalty. White-shirt waiters greeted us and catered to our every need. It felt like we were dining at a Michelin star restaurant but at a fraction of the cost! 

The Food

To start the perfect breakfast, begin with hot chocolate, not coffee! Their unique hot chocolate is made with famous Doña Oliva chocolate and is like drinking a cup of history. Hot chocolate originated in Mexico and was an essential part of the Aztec culture from 1400 AD.

My favourite part about the experience of eating here was the pastry tray. When you come inside a waiter brings you over an enormous tray of sweet pastries. And you can choose, with your own eyes, which pastry you’d want to start off the meal right with. I went with the concha as I feel like it’s the perfect pairing with a hot chocolate.

Another traditional breakfast dish you’ll only find in Mexico is the Egg omelette with escamoles. Escamoles are colloquially called “Mexican caviar,” and are edible ant larvae. Escamoles have been consumed in Mexico since the age of the Aztecs and are high in nutritional value. It’s definitely one of the most unique and classic dishes on the menu. But if that’s not your thing they have many other traditional options for those who aren’t that adventurous.

While you might take a look at this elegant restaurant would be pretty pricey, El Cardenal is such a good value. They really price themselves as a family restaurant. Although there were some tourists here it was clear that most people gather here every week. And with food as good and cheap as this, I know why they do!

Mercado De Flores

To work off some of the big breakfast, walk down the street and turn north up Avenue Revolución towards the famous San Ángel Flower Market. This market dates back to the time of the Carmelite friars. When they lived in the area, their church was surrounded by extensive gardens. Here they grew fruit trees and flowers in large quantities.

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Walking up to the market, you can spot it from down the street, not only by the iconic white awnings but also by the brightly painted murals along the exterior. Public murals like this were famous in markets like this around Mexico City. Vendors are packed tightly along the thin strip of the sidewalk facing the Avenida Revolucion. In their white plastic buckets are a wide array of vibrant flowers for locals to bring home to their sweethearts with a smile.

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Templo del Carmen de San Ángel

After peaking around at the flowers in the market, head back south along Avenue Revolución. Crossing Avenue de la Paz, lead yourself towards the large domes that dominate the skyline guiding you into the old Carmelite Church of San Ángel. 

Courtyard

While most people go directly to the Museum of El Carmen, checking out the church itself is more than worth your time. Even just walking through the old stone walls into the quaint courtyard gives you so many things to look at and ponder. The church courtyard is home to one of the most amazing jacaranda trees. Hidden behind the stone walls it feels like a treasure that we found was all to ourselves! It hangs heavy over the fountain in the centre of the stone yard. Its branches also frame the gorgeous tiled domes off in the background.

History of the St. Carmen Church of San Ángel

The church was originally built in 1615 by the Carmelite friar Andrés de San Miguel. It took over 10 years to complete, and when it opened it housed the order of the Barefoot Carmelites. It was originally opened as a monastery but they also built a college nearby. Here they welcomed theology students and new priests of the order. The church flourished for years and its orchards formed the bedrock of the colonial we find today. Bringing both money and interest to this part of town.

After the Mexican Reformation War of 1858, the new secular governmental powers closed down many Catholic churches and schools. The area around San Ángel was occupied by US troops who sadly destroyed many parts of the old buildings. As well as looting many of the church’s precious assets. They even went so far as to destroy the beloved orchards.

The old school building went on to serve as a prison, barracks and even the location of the local town council. Eventually, in 1921, the church school was transformed into a museum. It was here they sought to preserve the history of the building, the treasure found hidden within and the stories from the neighbourhood’s past. But the actual church itself has stood here, in almost the exact same state, for hundreds of years. And walking inside feels like stepping back in time.

Architecture

The design of the church was made in Herrerian style. Herrerian style rose in popularity in Spain during the 16th century and came to Mexico City with the Spanish colonizers. The style features a more restrained use of ornamentation compared to other baroque styles of the time. The shape of the building is designed to spread horizontally and symmetrically. And yet unlike many other Herrerian buildings which have flat or plain roofs, the St. Carmen de San Ángel church features three incredible tiled domes. Brilliant blue and yellow-painted tiles from Puebla still glisten in the sunlight although much of the roofs have fallen into disrepair over the ages.

Walking into the church, the restrained architecture that surrounds you highlights the incredible golden altar. Light frames the altar from either side creating the most ethereal glow. While the rest of the building might be simpler in design, the altarpiece is pure baroque. Drama, glamour and gilding are everything that the baroque era brought and we can see it here in leaps and spurts!

One of my favourite parts about the churches in Mexico is the tile work. Every little side chapel or tiny niche is given the royal treatment by plastering them with gorgeous tiles. These minature tiles look like shining gems when the sunlight hits them just right. While some are just decorative others are painted to tell stories about the saints in whose chapels they sit. These tiles truly make Mexican churches feel so unique and gives you a sense of place when visiting.

Museo de El Carmen

Just outside the entrance to the church, you can find the Museo de El Carmen. The old monastery school and cloisters were transformed into a museum in the 1920s. Inside, the museum houses various objects that detail the history of the Carmelite order. When you enter through the lower cloisters you’re greeted by a small series of panels detailing the complete history of the convent and school. Throughout the rest of the museum, these histories are brought to life through a series of paintings, documents, sculptures and even the furniture which was used inside the monastery.

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As well as detailing life in the monastery, these historical paintings also depict what life was like in San Ángel in the 18th and 19th centuries. It features an amazing collection of Colonial religious art. The baroque artist Cristóbal de Villalpando has many paintings here on display. He is most famous for his painting which now hangs in the Metropolitan Cathedral. But inside this more intimate museum, you can view his pieces close up and see them in a more personal light.

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The Crypt

One of the most interesting, or for some, macabre parts of the museum is the old crypts. When the monastery was a working church, many people would pay to be buried in such a holy place. These were both members of the Carmelite Order as well as wealthy benefactors.

But over the years, and after the fall of the religious institutions, many of these bodies were forgotten. Only in the 20th century were they uncovered during the monastery’s restoration. The bodies left here were miraculously preserved because of the rich soil by which they were surrounded. They were essentially mummified. With no one to claim the bodies, the museum decided to leave them where they rested, and now visitors can give view their wrinkled flesh up close and personal. Preserved for the ages inside their velvet-lined wooden and glass caskets.

Hours & Admission: 52 pesos | Free on Sundays, closed on Mondays

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Plaza del Carmen

Head back to the main intersection at Madero and the Avenue de la Revolution to cross over to Plaza del Carmen. The brilliant-coloured buildings that surround the square blend in amongst the vibrant flowers in the garden beds in the middle of the plaza. While the Plaza de Jacinto might be the larger and most popular square in the city, Plaza del Carmen is by far my favourite. Its quaint and cramped quarters are so joyful, with locals sitting out on the benches, chatting with friends, in the early morning. Watching the artists set up their canvases as the sun rises.

San Angel Art Market

On Saturdays, this is where the start of the San Ángel art market can be found. One of the most wonderful things about the San Ángel art market is not just for tourists. Unlike some more touristy markets around the city, this market is meant for the locals. And many people come here, from far and wide, in search of the perfect art piece for their home. The atmosphere is intoxicating, everyone admiring the newest art pieces from their favourite local painters. Rainbow-coloured umbrellas dot the skyline, protecting fresh paint from the harsh rays of the sun.

Architecture around Plaza El Carmen

Even if you don’t come on a weekend, this small Plaza is a wonder to behold. It is surrounded on all sides by incredible historical buildings, important to the neighbourhood’s history. Even in just this one square, you can get a slice of the wonderfully preserved architecture that makes this neighbourhood such a gem to visit. Examples of baroque, neoclassical and neocolonial houses can be found right here. And many have been perfectly preserved since this part of town managed to escape the urbanization of the city’s centre.

House of Chucho el Roto

To the southeast, you’ll see a brilliant yellow building with bright red trim on the corner. This is the old House of Chucho el Roto or House of The Two Courtyards. This building is a wonderful example of Mexican neoclassical styles popular during the Protofio Diaz era. The house was named because it was designed with two courtyards, a lavish expense at this time. The main courtyard was built to entertain and house splendid gardens. The secondary courtyard where the carriages and stables were placed. This allowed the home to separate the working part of the house from the relaxing retreat these country homes aimed to create.

Chucho el Roto

The house was built in the 19th century for the philanthropist Francisco de Urquiaga. A popular legend about this home states that it was the hiding place for the famous bandit Jesús Arriaga. Arriaga was also nicknamed “Chucho el Roto,” hence the other name for the house. Arriaga was somewhat of a Robin Hood-type character, robbing from the wealthy and giving to the poor. This house was reported to be connected to the underground tunnels built by the Dominicans. The tunnels could be accessed through the basement and led to the nearby Plaza San Jacinto. Making it a perfect getaway for a legendary bandit.

Sadly, Arriaga was eventually captured and died in prison. But his legend lived on long past his death. And fictional stories became even more popular after his passing. Today it houses the Library of the Revolutions of Mexico. Very apt, considering it was the hideout of this legendary anti-establishment character who would have been a staunch supporter of the revolutions.

Mercado del Carmen

On the north side of the Plaza sits the popular Mercado del Carmen. This hip communal-style eatery and art gallery are housed in an old mansion dating back to the 18th century. It was also used as an English school for the upper classes of San Agnel during the 1960s and 70s. The gorgeous blue of the house blends in almost perfectly with the sky on a clear day, making it feel at one with heaven above.

Casa del Mayorazgo de Fagoaga

On the northwest corner of the plaza, along Calle de la Amargura is the Casa del Mayorazgo de Fagoaga. The brilliant burnt orange exteriors and 18-century facade welcome you onto one of the most luxurious streets in the city. It was designed in the neoclassical style with baroque-style balconies.

The home was originally built for Francisco de Fagoaga, the head of a powerful silver and gold merchant. His family was one of the first to start the trend of moving their mansions out of the central city and into the countryside. His house set the tone for other wealthy haciendas built in the era and unsurprisingly lots of future houses follow the same template. It was truly a trendsetter. The orange contrasts so well with the dense green foliage and pink flowers that bloom across the facade.

Bishop’s House 

Continue along Calle de la Amargura towards the end of the street, blocked by the corner of the old Bishop of Tenagra’s mansion. Joaquín Fernández de Madrid y Canal served as the Bishop’s adobe here in San Ángel. A Bishop was a highly regarded figure in the community. As such, the friars wanted to build a house that would impress! His house was built in 1631 (!) and is one of the best-preserved pieces of history in San Ángel. Long after the revolution, the house still stood as a well sought-after real estate piece. It was home to various famous Mexican like poet José Zorrilla, historian José María Agreda and politician and general Antonio López de Santa Anna. Today, the house serves as an art gallery hosting rotating exhibitions featuring incredible Mexican artists.

Plaza San Jacinto

Turn south past the Plaza Tenanitla (dedicated to the original name of the colonial) and make your way into the grand Plaza San Jacinto. The Plaza was named the Church of San Jacinto, located just on the west side of the square. But we’ll learn more about the church later when you go inside. The little town square popped up here as it was surrounded on all sides by the church, convent and orphanage. It quickly became the heart of the community in the 18th century and continues on as such today!

 St. Patrick Battalion

On the far west side of the Plaza, on the wall opposite, you’ll see a large plaque dedicated to the St. Patrick Battalion. “Why is there a dedication to Irish soldiers in Mexico City?” you might be wondering. In 1847, during the Mexican War for independence, Irish, German and even American immigrants came over to Mexico. They wanted to help fight for Mexico’s freedom, against the United States. The battalion was one of the fiercest and responsible for a huge majority of the deaths on the American side. So when they were caught, their punishments were brutal. They were executed right here in San Jacinto square, in front of the famous church. But their legend lives in on this plaque stands in their honour. The memory of their fighting vigour an inspiration to others who would continue the fight and win the freedom of the nation.

Diego Rivera

Make your way to the centre of the Plaza and look across the elegant central fountain. There, you will see a bronze easel with the burst of Diego Rivera emblazoned into the cartouche. As Rivera was a resident of the San Angel for many years, local artists inspired by Rivera wanted to commemorate him for generations to come. There is something wonderful about Rivera’s face looking over at the artists in the square selling their works in the square. Continuing his passion for supporting Mexican artists, even from the great beyond.

Saturday Art Market

By far the most popular thing to see in the square is to peruse the incredible Saturday Art Market. The market was established here in the 1960s. Interestingly enough, the origins of the market were due to an American, Jim Tillet, who had moved to Mexico City. He brought the concept of a weekly artisan fair to Mexico City, and the idea immediately took off. The art is both meant for the locals to enjoy as well as the tourists, highlighting the beauty of the Mexican landscape and vibrant culture. There were so many amazing artists of all different styles and mediums. My favourites were the ones that were designed to look like Lotería cards.

In addition to paintings, this Plaza is also home to craftspeople. Here you can find artisan pottery, textiles and even clothing. While some of it is a bit touristy things there are also really unique designers and artists. Prices tend to be a little more expensive here in San Angel but the quality is there to match.

There are often musicians strolling around through the market, entertaining the crowds and creating a more inviting and charming atmosphere. Street food vendors pop up selling sweet treats and salty snacks to satisfy your cravings. Art hunting is hungry work!

Handicraft Shops

If you opt to visit San Angel outside of the weekend, you can still find lots of different handicraft shops open around the square throughout the week. Shops like the Bazar San Ángel, María Bonita and Local México all sell gorgeous handmade decor and art pieces for your home. The spirit of the art market lives on long past the weekend so don’t feel like you’ll have missed it all if you can only visit during the week.

Museo Casa del Risco

On the north side of the Plaza Jacinto, hidden behind the opulent trees, is an old terra-cotta-coloured building with ‘Museo Casa del Risco‘ emblazoned in brass along the fence. Inside you’ll find an old residence dating back to the 17th-century that has since been transformed into a museum. The museum recreates the look of a traditional San Angel house as it would have looked in the 18th century. Casa del Risco has a fascinating history as it served as a residence, a military barracks and a hospital.

Fuente del Risco

The house’s main feature that people come to see is the great porcelain fountain. The fountain, or “Fuente del Risco,” is located inside the main central courtyard. It was made in the late 18th century in the opulent Baroque or “ultra baroque” style popular in Mexico City during that period.

While it looks like it is merely decorative, the fountain’s design was actually an ingenious way to preserve broken porcelain. Back then, painted porcelains were extremely expensive and yet, just like today, accidents happen and you might end up breaking a plate that costs more than a used car does today. Turning them into an art sculpture like this was a way to preserve and display even the broken pieces.

Embedded within the fountain you can spot Chinese blue and white porcelain, plates from the Ming Dynasty, green porcelain from Japan, Spanish Talavera ceramics and, of course, the homegrown ceramics of Puebla. Entire bowls, plates, cups and sauces are also scattered together with broken pieces of pottery to create this magical-looking fountain. The niches are designed to look like pearlescent shells and conches and the piece is dotted with mermaid sculptures. Even here in the hill of San Angel do we find people dreaming of the ocean.

There is so much else to see inside the museum, from Baroque art, religious sculptures, antique stained glass and recreations of 18th-century living space. But if all you want to see is the fountains, it’s easy to do so as admission to the museum is free.

Admission: Free | Open Tuesday-Sunday 10 am – 5 pm

Antiques Fair

On the weekends, just outside the museum, you’ll find high-end vintage and antique sellers bringing out their wares. This was almost as incredible as the museum itself, it felt like just outside you could literally buy items you’d just seen inside the museum. Paintings from the 19th century, religious objects and gorgeous pieces of antique jewellery. The prices are pretty high but even I was almost swayed into buying a locket from 1898! There are some real treasures so if you have the money to spend you’ll discover some amazing pieces in this marketplace.

Bazaar Sábado

If you don’t like sifting through the pop-up stands outside in the plaza, you can head into the Bazaar Sábado. The Bazaar Sábado is located inside a 17th-century red-painted mansion and dates back to the 1960s. Here you can find the giant home filled with over 100 permanent artisan shops selling everything from textiles to jewellery, ceramics and metalwork. Many of these craftspeople are award winners, so their prices are going to reflect that status, but the work is unparalleled. Personally, I prefer the stuff found on the street, but if you’re looking for something more upmarket, this is the place for you.

Inside the central open-air courtyard is a wonderful eatery serving up traditional breakfast and lunch street food. It can get pretty busy right at 12 pm but if you prefer to eat a bit early or late you’ll find more tables open. The food here is wonderful and a great place to try some amazing street food like Tlacoyos, quesadillas and gorditas.

Villa San Jacinto

If the Bazaar Sabado courtyard is too busy you can hop across the Plaza and make your way to the stunning courtyards of the Villa San Jacinto. This 19th-century house has been preserved and transformed to be enjoyed by present-day visitors. The Cafe de las Artes is a gorgeous little eatery inspired by the architecture of the Porfiriato era. Walking up the stairs, you are greeted by this incredible grisaille style stained glass window, bohemian lamps and the Catalan vaults.

You can also study the amazing remodelled garden filled with beautiful sculptures. The cafe sells lots of different drinks and has homemade desserts and sandwiches if you’re feeling a bit peckish. Sitting outside you can get pretty hot but is a beautiful place to admire the rotating selection of art work on display.

Parroquia San Jacinto

Heading back onto Calle Benito Juárez, walk just a few meters where you’ll find an unassuming set of stairs which leads you into the green oasis outside of the Parroquia San Jacinto. The Parroquia San Jacinto or San Jacinto Parish was founded by the Dominicans in 1564. The Dominican order had discovered a small waterfall nearby and utilized the water to power their spinning and weaving equipment. This allowed them to produce lots of different kinds of textiles. They sold them off and used the funds to fund the building of the church and the plush gardens.

Walking inside the church, the thing that immediately catches your eyes is the ornate churrigueresco-style altar. The rest of the interior of the church is pretty austere but there is something so charming about the simplicity. Be sure to poke your head around the cloisters inside the church. This is the perfect place to escape the sun for a minute and walk through the shaded walkways and central fountain.

The Garden

The contrast between the rather subdued building and the incredibly bright colours of the gardens is a wonderful pairing. In the centre of the garden is a fountain with a huge cross in the centre. This was the first cross ever carved in Mexico. Looking closely at it you can see elements from both the Christian and Pagan faiths.

Surrounding the church are cedars, eucalyptus and pine trees. I always feel like this little hidden away yard is most reminiscent of the old orchards of San Angel.

Plaza de Los Cielos

Walking back outside, take a stroll down the Calle Benito Juárez towards the Plaza de los Cielos. This little corner is a gem of the colonial-era architecture that remains in this neighbourhood. Beautifully decorated in ancient jacaranda and vibrant bougainvilleas pour over the stone walls. The little Plaza de Los Cielos is surrounded on the two sides by the old walls of the former monastery.

Plaza de los Arcángeles

Continue north along Árbol street, turning left on Segunda Cda. de Frontera, where you’ll discover one of the most peaceful yet stunning streets anywhere in Mexico City. The walls here are covered in foliages, and when they bloom in bright purple and blue, it feels like walking through a tunnel of flowers.

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At the end of the street, you’ll find the secret Plaza de Los Arcángeles. A nook tucked into the neighbourhood’s corner features a series of benches under a series of stone arches. In the centre of the small gardenette is a shrine to the Virgin of Guadalupe tucked inside the hole of a tree. The name of the Plaza comes from three large sandstone benches named after the Archangels; Gabriel, Rafael and Michael. It’s a fantastically peaceful place and well worth the three-minute detour!

Casa de Los Marqueses de Selva Nevada

Walk back up Arbol and west along with Calle Hidalgo. On the northwest corner is one of the more historic homes of San Angel. Casa de los marqueses de Selva Nevada was owned by Ana Ortiz de Móxica in the end of the 18th century. It would later go on to the owned by María Josefa Rodríguez de Pinillos, the ambassador of Austria-Hungary in Mexico. Maria is responsible for the majority of the renovations we can see today. One of the most impressive parts of the building is the gorgeous wooden gates set between the beautiful white painted trim and ochre-coloured exterior. The door was designed with traditional elements of Mudejar decoration.

Casa Blanca

Continue along the Calle Hidalgo until you reach the large white house at #43. This is called the Casa Blanca, or “white house,” a 17th-century hacienda owned by the Oploca counts. Look closely at the coat of arms above the door to see the design of this family’s old shield. During its life in San Angel, the house was once home to the second-largest orchard in the neighbourhood. All hidden away behind the beautiful parapets of the white house. A small plaque on the front of the house honoured it as a place of historical significance. During the Second Franco-Mexican War, this house served as a bunker for French and American soldiers.

Legen of the Casa Blanca

But the most significant thing about this house is the legend that goes along with it. If you walk slightly further away from the front door, you’ll see a large wrought iron balcony towards the back of the house. The story goes that the woman who once lived here had the love of her life go off to war. She watched him leave from this balcony and would return to it every day, waiting for his return. But he never would come home, and she died an old woman, standing on the balcony, heartbroken. Eternally waiting for her true love to come home. Her ghost is said to still haunt the upper balcony so keep your eyes peeled for her wailing cries.

Licenciado | Leandro Valle

Continue down Hidalgo until you reach Licenciado street and walk north. This is another fantastic example of just how amazing even the ordinary homes in this neighbourhood are. Walls are dripping in ivy and each new facade is painted in a different vibrant colour. Rich wooden doorways and fantastical wrought iron gates protect entry from the street into the secretive homes inside.

Although there might not be any specific historical sights here, these are the streets that make visiting a neighbourhood like San Angel so worth it! The road curves to the right and turns into Leandro Valle. Eventually, popping you outright outside Avenue Altavista. Bringin you to the front steps of the famous Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo.

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo

Standing from across the street is the best way to introduce yourself to this famous home. You can see the red and white building on the right, which served as Diego Rivera‘s studio contrasted by the bright periwinkle painted studio for Frida Kahlo. The two homes are connected via the large walkway on the top floor. The entire design of the homes is symbolic of their love. Two very different artists and lovers that are yet forever connected. This was Rivera’s dream home that he had commissioned by architect and friend Juan O’Gorman. O’Gorman is well known for many different famous buildings in Mexico City including the incredible designs inside the UNAM campus.

The museum leads you through both houses to see their studios, living spaces and a gorgeous rooftop view across the neighbourhood of San Angel. To get a complete guided tour of the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo you can read our full guide here.

San Angel Inn

To end your day in San Angel, head back across the street and to the historic San Angel Inn. In my honest opinion, the food isn’t the best here. It was probably one of the most disappointing meals I’ve had in Mexico City. And for what you get, it’s overpriced. But that being said, nothing can compete with this restaurant’s history, decor, and architecture.

My recommendation is to arrive before or after their lunch or dinner rush. And opt for only a drink and perhaps a dessert or snack. This way you can still enjoy the incredible environments but don’t need to worry about spending too much on subpar food. Plus, our margaritas were some of the best we’ve ever had so there are some definite gems to be found!

History

The best way to describe this place is an institution. The building itself dates back to 1616! It was originally the Our Lady of Santa Ana Monastery, built by Hernando Aragonés. Surrounding the monastery was a series of superb orchards and rich agave gardens. They produced a large amount of pulque here over the years, an iconic drink found only in Mexico. Despite changing hands many times over the years, much of the original gardens have been preserved to enjoy today.

History of San Angel Inn

In 1777, the old monastery was purchased by Ramon Goicoechea, who converted it into his family mansion. The hotel was also owned by musician Carlos Prieto who hosted classical music concerts inside. Even today, this tradition continues with live music played throughout the restaurant. Many years later, in 1908, the property was transformed into a large hotel and restaurant. The new owners sold off the excess land, which turned into the neighbourhood of Altavista. The huge mansion was divided up to make all different spaces, from guest rooms to the various restaurants and event spaces we can visit today.

Walking through the hallways, courtyards, and different rooms feels like being inside a living museum. The walls are covered in artworks collected by all the different owners who called this place home over the years. Famously, this restaurant was so popular that it was even notable for hosting various Mexican revolutionaries from Emiliano Zapata to Pancho Villa and Zapata. They were even seen singing a unity pact right here in the restaurant!

This brings us to the end of this incredible tour of San Angel. I hope you’ve enjoyed the sights we’ve seen along the way. Let me know in the comments which stop was your favourite or other treasures you’ve discovered along the way!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Guide to the Artistic and Creative Corners of San Angel, Mexico City Walking Tour first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.