Sitting down in your seats, you sip a traditional michelada, a crisp local beer smothered in chamoy sauce and dusted with spicy tajin. Paired with fresh chicharrones and popcorn, all also covered in Valentina sauce. As the match explodes before your eyes, you can almost feel the hard smack of the wrestler’s back as he gets flipped upside down. Pounded onto the all too hard-looking mat underfoot. Words you might once not have understood take on new meaning, and you begin to copy the cheers and roars of the crowd around you. Yelling in favour of your favourite characters and booing the villains that grace the stage. This is the world of Lucha Libre!

Table Of Contents

1. History
   • El Santo
2. Where to See Lucha Libre in Mexico City?
3. Group Tours Vs. Independent Visits
4. How to Get To Arena Mexico
5. How to Get Tickets for Lucha Libre at the Arena Mexico
   • Best Seats in the House
   • Freedome Arena Bar
6. What to Expect
7. Food & Drink
8. Souvenir Masks
9. The Matches
10. Is it all Real?
11. Tips for Attending Your First Lucha Libre

History

Lucha libre, which translates to “freestyle wrestling,” is a form of professional wrestling unique to Mexico. Its history dates back to the early 1930s when a former colonel of the revolution invited an American wrestler to come to Mexico. They set out to stage a series of exhibitions. The wrestling matches caught on like wildfire with the locals. And it wasn’t long before they would create their unique identity within the sport. 

La Maravilla Enmascarada

In 1934, La Maravilla Enmascarada, was intorduced to Mexico. This was American wrestler Mackey, who had previously wrestled but to little fanfare. On his return to Mexico, he wanted to introduce himself as a new persona. So Mackey donned a mask and took on a new name. The mystery of who the man under the mask was intrigued the audience, and he was an instant hit! And it wasn’t long before more wrestlers were also choosing to wear a mask. With a mask, you could be anyone or anything. It soon became a part of the sport that you had to be unmasked if you lost a match. 

Lucha Libre made a name for itself, unique from American wrestling with its colourful characters, high-flying acrobatics, and dramatic storylines. Lucha libre continued to evolve over the years, with new wrestlers and new styles emerging. Today, you’ll see that not every wrestler needs to wear a mask, but some prefer to do so for the flare it gives to their costume and appearance.

El Santo

You can’t really talk about Lucha Libre without mentioning El Santo. El Santo is one of the most iconic and legendary figures in the world of Lucha Libre. Rodolfo Guzmán Huerta, the man inside the mask, first came to the ring as “El Enmascarado de Plata” (The Man in The Silver Mask.) El Santo’s iconic outfit consisted of his striking silver mask and distinctive white and silver costume. El Santo became known throughout his career for his heroic persona, often portraying a character who fought for justice and defended the oppressed. Earning his new nickname, “El Santo,” or “the Saint.” Throughout his over four-decade-long career, El Santo was never unmasked. As he never lost a match. When he died he was even buried with the mask he wore his entire career.

Where to See Lucha Libre in Mexico City?

The Arena Mexico is the most famous venue for Lucha Libre in Mexico City. It’s located in Colonia Doctores, just east of the popular neighbourhood of Roma Norte. While there are also matches held inside the Arena Coliseo, this is a much smaller venue further outside of town. And since there are always multiple shows at Arena Mexico every week there’s no need to have to travel anywhere else.

Group Tours Vs. Independent Visits

You can make a trip to see a Lucha Libre match simply on your own, by purchasing your tickets independently or via a tour group. These tour groups are much more expensive than just buying the tickets on your own. But with the tour, you often get a much more layered experience. These tours often start hours before the show and feature everything from meet and greet with real wrestlers, mask-making workshops and general history presentations. Great to help newbies get acquainted with the sport.

But the best advantage of going with a group is you having someone with you to take care of all the logistics. This is the best choice if you’re a more cautious or new traveller. These organized tours cost anywhere from $55-100 USD. This is one of the tours we recommend.

But going on your own is really easier than you think. Plus it’s much less expensive and you can spend the money saved on treats and souvenirs from the match! Hopefully, if you want to go on your own, this guide will help you navigate your first-time experience.

How to Get To Arena Mexico

Since Arena Mexico is located in the heart of the city, getting there it is very convenient. If you are staying in Roma Norte, you can even just walk. But from the rest of the city, I recommend taking an Uber to and from. Ubers are cheap and safe, and there are lots of spots where cars can drop and pick you up. Even though there are lots of taxis around the Arena after the show, Ubers are always the most reliable and safe option.

If you’d prefer to take public transportation you can arrive and depart via the Cuauhtémoc station only 5-minutes from the Arena Mexico.

How to Get Tickets for Lucha Libre at the Arena Mexico

Tickets for Lucha Libre matches are usually available on the day of the event at the arena box office. However, purchasing tickets in advance is recommended to avoid long queues and ensuring a good seat. You can buy tickets online from Ticketmaster. Tickets range in price from $420 pesos to $180 pesos ($22 USD to $10.

Best Seats in the House

The best place to sit is close to the ring. If you want the best pictures, the seats directly opposite the ramp makes for the most dramatic compositions. But if you want to see the wrestlers close up, sitting beside the ramp is your best option! Honestly, the Arena isn’t huge, so no matter where you sit you’re bound to have a great time. But you might as well shell out a few extra dollars to get up close to the action. If you find yourself in the very front row, don’t be surprised if you become a part of the show itself!

Freedome Arena Bar

A new addition to Arena Mexico is tickets to the Freedom Bar. These tickets are located in small boxes around the stadium. These tickets claim to have the best view of the ring, but I prefer to be down on the ground. But they are more private, and you get more perspective on the entire ring. The tickets include unlimited buffet food, beer, soft drinks and non-alcoholic drinks during the show. You also get a free wrestler mask, and you might even have a guest wrestler greet you at your table. Some private bathrooms and waiters come to your table. The cost of these tickets is $999 pesos ($54 USD), but it’s a unique splurge for a very special experience. Remember: this does not include tips.

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What to Expect

When you arrive at Arena Mexico, you’ll have your ticket scanned and usually, there is a security officer who gives you a quick pat down. Once inside you’ll be greeted by one of the ushers, or “acomodaor,” wearing blue aprons. They will also take scan or look at your ticket and guide you to your seat. It’s wonderful to have this kind of service, especially as a newbie who doesn’t know the arena.

When you get to the row where your seat number is located, don’t be surprised if they usher asks you to sit at the end of the row. Instead of in the exact number on your ticket. This is just how they ensure people don’t have to keep getting up to let late comers in. Don’t worry if this happens. The rows are only about 6-8 seats long so the exact number really doesn’t change your view dramatically. But it confuses us the first time it happened, so good to know what to expect

After the usher brings you to your seats, you should give them a very small tip, or “propina.” Don’t feel like you’re getting ripped off as a tourist. This is very normal and even the locals do this. It’s just a nice way to give them a little something for their efforts. Whatever change you have will suffice, it’s more of a gesture of thanks than anything.

Food & Drink

Once you’ve located your seats, it’s time to grab something to eat. Many vendors move throughout the crowd during the matches, so you can purchase food and drinks without even leaving your seat. The selection is rather small but there’s everything you need for a traditional sports snack. The vendors going around the stadium usually have chips and popcorn. And be sure to ask for one of their little packets of Valentina hot sauce if you want to amp up the flavour. They also sell beers, “cervezas,” and sodas “refrescos.“

Food Stalls

If you’re looking for something a bit more substantial you can head back to the food stalls inside the lobby. Here the selection is a bit larger with things like sweets and candies, nachos, hot dogs and even fresh “tortas,” (sandwiches.) You can also find a little larger selection of beers and drinks.

Micheladas

If you’re looking for a true Mexican specialty, head to the Micheladas stand. A michelada is a Mexican drink that combines beer, lime juice, hot sauce and tomato juice. It is served in a cup rimmed with chamoy (spicy-sweet sauce made of pickled fruit) and tajin (spice mix made of chilli peppers, lime, and salt.) This combination of spicy, savoury and sweet is a staple of Mexican cuisine and a great thing to try here at the Lucha match. If you aren’t a fan of the tomato juice (as I am not), you can instead try a Chelada instead. Its the same ingredients, just without the tomato juice.

Souvenir Masks

Also for sale in the lobby are souvenirs from the match. Everything from replica masks of the favourite wrestlers to t-shirts and posters. The quality of these products is definitely high, but if you just want to buy a mask to dress up for the match, you can find many cheaper ones at the market. Or even for sale directly outside the Arena by street vendors. These won’t be perfect replicas of the ones the wrestlers wear, but they are just as fun if you aren’t looking for the real thing. I’ve found masks for as little as $5 and it makes getting into the spirit even easier!

The Matches

Lucha Libre matches are a high-energy spectacle with colourful masks, acrobatic moves, and exciting storylines. The matches are divided into rounds, each lasting for a few minutes. There are usually three rounds in total, with a break in between each round. During these breaks is when you’ll see the drama break out. With wrestlers taunting each other and lots of action from the sidelines. Lucha Libre is a family-friendly event, and you can expect to see people of all ages cheering and shouting for their favourite wrestlers. 

In almost every match, there will be the “técnicos,” or the good guys and the “rudos,” who are the evildoers. The rudos will often taunt the técnicos and are bound to be on the receiving end of “boos” from the audience. But in my opinion, the rudos often have the most amazing costumes, props and best entrances featuring fire and flames.

The luchadors must pin their opponents to the ground for about 10 seconds to win a match. Often you’ll hear the audience counting down before the pinned wrestler gets away just at the last second. Creating lots of dramatic cries from the crowd. Other times a luchador could win if the opponent is disqualified. This can happen if they use an illegal move or by enlisting help from another team member that wasn’t supposed to be in the match. There is always something afoot ontop of the exciting moves see in the ring.

Is it all Real?

Whether professional wrestling is “real” or not is something you often hear people asking when attending their first Lucha Libre event. While the storylines and outcome of the matches are pre-determined, the absolute athleticism you see during the shows is definitely REAL! Especially in Lucha Libre, the high-flying stunts they pull are phenomenal. They left my jaw on the floor multiple times. And even the “fake” hits they take from one other look like they could really hurt. You need to be in amazing shape to participate in these performances, which is a talent that is undoubtedly something to admire.

Tips for Attending Your First Lucha Libre

1. Remember to bring cash. You’ll need it to buy food and drinks. But don’t bring any more than you think you’ll need. About 600 pesos should be enough for two alcoholic drinks a person and some snacks.
2. Remember to tip your attendant!
3. Don’t bring valuables or expensive items, as pickpocketing can be a problem in crowded areas.
4. Leave your fancy camera at home. Phones are fine, so you’ll still be able to take lots of photos with them.
5. Arrive early to avoid traffic coming into the Arena. Plus, arriving early means you can get settled with food and drink, so you don’t miss a minute of the show!
6. You cannot bring in any outside food or drink so remember to leave water bottles at home.

Attending a Lucha Libre match in Mexico City is an unforgettable experience you don’t want to miss. This show is about drama, even if you’re not a sports fan. It’s about evil vs. good and long-held grudges being fought in front of your eyes. It’s one of my favourite things to do on a night in Mexico City, and I hope you try it yourself!

Happy Travels, Adventurers.

The post Uncover the Excitement of Lucha Libre: Your Ultimate Mexico City Guide for the Best Wrestling Experience first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. #1 Start with a Walk Around La Condesa
2. #2 Museo de Arte Popular
3. #3 Xochimilco
4. #4 Bosque de Chapultepec
5. #5 Lucha Libre
6. #6 Mercado Artesanías Ciudadela
7. #7 Casa Azul Frida Kahlo
8. #8 San Angel Arts Market
9. #9 Street Food
10. #10 Sundays on Paseo de Reforma

#1 Start with a Walk Around La Condesa

The first thing I recommend to any first-time traveller to Mexico City is to take a walk. This helps not only acclimatize you to the altitude, but also your neighbourhood. And my #1 recommendation for the best streets to comfortably and safely wander is in La Condesa. It can be a casual stroll or an in-depth guided tour. Start the day off right by meeting the friendly locals, sampling the food, and soaking up the exemplary historic architecture. And incredible green spaces. La Condesa has become somewhat of a tourist hot spot over the years. But as such, it’s really really accessible to foreigners. While still maintaining that amazing Mexico City vibe that absolutely permeates the entire city.

#2 Museo de Arte Popular

While many guides will put the Templo Mayor and Anthrolopgoy museum in their top museum spots, for me, it has got to be the Museo de Arte Popular. The Museo de Arte Popular (Museum of Popular Art) is a cultural treasure of great importance to the Mexican people. It showcases Mexico’s vibrant folk art traditions and celebrates its people’s creativity and ingenuity.

The museum holds an extensive collection of handmade crafts and folk art. This includes textiles, pottery, glassware, wood carvings, and more, providing a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of Mexico. It is a place to admire the beauty and skill of these works and serves as a center for preserving and promoting traditional Mexican arts and crafts. It is a place where visitor can come together to appreciate the unique cultural richness of Mexico. And learn about its history and traditions. 

While I also recommend the Templo Mayor and the Anthropology Museum, the vibrancy of this museum always excites me. These are objects made by everyday people that have lasted generations. And hold within them such deep symbolic value. Even in arts and crafts, you’ll learn all about the Aztec myths and gods the ancient Mexican people worshipped. And see how this history still finds its way into symbolism even today.

#3 Xochimilco

Xochimilco is a neighbourhood in Mexico City home to a system of canals and floating gardens known as the Xochimilco canals. This ancient waterway was once used for agriculture and transportation. But today serves as a popular tourist attraction and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Locals and tourists alike gather near the embarcaderos and rent these gorgeous, brightly coloured Trajineras, or small boats. Thes boats are ferried up and down the river. The atmosphere on the canals, even on a quiet afternoon, is infectious. Laughter and the sound of mariachi bands float across the water.

The canals offer a unique perspective into the way of life in Mexico in the past. These innovative chinampas were created by the Aztecs to grow crops in the middle of a lake. While on your journey, you can buy food and drinks from local street food vendors cooking up a storm in their own floating kitchens. There is also live music and craft merchants all along the river. Although it’s about a 45 minutes journey to get here, it is well worth the effort.

#4 Bosque de Chapultepec

There is no better place to spend a lively weekend with the locals than at the Bosque de Chapultepec or Chapultepec Park. The Bosque de Chapultepec (Chapultepec Forest) is one of the largest city parks in the world. Often referred to as the “lungs of Mexico City.” The park spans over 1,700 acres and is home to a diverse array of flora and fauna.

The Bosque de Chapultepec also has a rich cultural history, as it was once a royal retreat for Aztec emperors. And later served as the official residence of Mexican presidents. The Bosque de Chapultepec symbolizes the city’s past and present. And to me, this place provides a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of Mexico City. It is a place where people can connect with nature, learn about Mexican culture and history, and enjoy various recreational activities.

It’s also home to several museums, including the National Museum of Anthropology, the Museum of Modern Art, and the National History Museum. But I love just coming here and exploring. Take a swan boat out on the lake, eat some street snacks, and watch the locals enjoy their city.

#5 Lucha Libre

Watching Lucha Libre, Mexico’s colourful and dynamic form of professional wrestling is a cultural experience that is not to be missed in Mexico City. Lucha Libre is a deeply ingrained part of Mexican popular culture. And has been a part of the country’s entertainment scene for over 80 years. The high-flying, acrobatic moves, elaborate costumes, and larger-than-life personalities of the luchadors (wrestlers) make for a unique and exciting spectacle. One that you have to see for yourself.

Attending a Lucha Libre match in Mexico City is an opportunity to immerse oneself in Mexican culture’s vibrant and energetic spirit. We were hesitant at first about going. Not knowing if we would understand what was happening, but we were FANS immediately after the show’s start! Joining in on the chants and screaming “boos” at the villains of the match.

I remember after our first match feeling, my face was sore from smiling and singing and screaming. It was a blast; we’ve seen a match every time we’ve been back in the city. It’s part of our tradition, and it should be one of yours too. You can join a tour group if you feel more comfortable going as a group or buy the tickets from the Arena Mexoc website.

#6 Mercado Artesanías Ciudadela

There is nowhere I’m perhaps more excited to go to every time I’m in Mexico City than the Mercado Artesanías Ciudadad. This sprawling arts market is filled with hundreds of stalls selling an array of handmade goods, including textiles, pottery, jewelry, glassware, and more. Each stall reflects Mexico’s diverse cultural heritage, with artisans coming from around the country to sell their wares.

Shopping at the market is not only an opportunity to purchase unique and beautiful handmade goods but also a way to support the local artisans and their families. The prices here are extremely fair, so there is no need to haggle. But often, if you buy more than a few things, the owner will give you a discount. I find just wandering the aisle and filling my eyes with all the incredible creations a rewarding and fulfilling experience.

#7 Casa Azul Frida Kahlo

Casa Azul Frida Kahlo, also known as the Blue House, was the birthplace and lifelong home of the renowned Mexican artist Frida Kahlo. The house sits in one of my favourite Mexico City neighbourhoods, Coyoacan. Today the house has been restored to reflect what it would have looked like when Frida lived in it with her husband, Diego Rivera.

The bright blue house vividly represents Frida’s artistic vision. It is filled with Frida’s personal belongings, including her paintings, collectables and photographs. But most precious are the iconic traditional Mexican dresses that created Frida’s look. and made her a fashion icon.

Visiting Casa Azul is a journey into Frida’s world, providing a glimpse into her art, politics, and personal life. The museum is a cultural treasure that offers a window into Mexico’s past and the history of one of its most famous artists.

#8 San Angel Arts Market

The San Angel Art Market in Mexico City is the best time to make your way out to the San Angel hillside neighbourhood. While San Angel is still one of the most vibrant yet peaceful districts throughout the week in Mexico City, on Saturdays, the art markets set the squares alight. Artisans from all over the city arrive to set up their goods at dawn. Showcasing all different art forms, from paintings to sculptures and handmade items. Best of all, the art market is for more than just tourists. But also for the locals, the pieces feel really reflective of trendy Mexican styles. Furthermore, the market provides a platform for up-and-coming artists to showcase their work and gain exposure.

A market is also a place for the community to gather and engage with the local arts scene. There is often live music performances and demonstrations by artists taking place regularly. Inside the El Bazar Sábado building on the north side of the Plaza San Jacinto you’ll find a lively food court. Here, locals and tourists all come together to eat the day away. A relaxing spot to take a break from exploring the beautiful artworks outside.

#9 Street Food

Mexico City is (in my humble opinion) the best foodie location in the world. From Michelin Star fine dining to unpretentious family-run fondas serving home-style, traditional Mexican cuisine, there is truly something for everyone. But street food is where Mexico City really shines. And street food is an integral part of the city’s culture, reflecting the country’s rich culinary heritage and diverse population. Plus, at the low price points, it’s an accessible option for almost every budget.

There is something so exciting about spotting your favourite tamales vendor coming down the road on his bike, announcing his breakfast items for sale on his portable speaker. Street food in Mexico City is incredibly diverse. From traditional Mexican dishes like tacos al pastor, elote, tortas and huaraches, there is truly something for every diet. Even vegans can find special vegan food stalls around the city. And if you’re too timid to go for a full-on meal, there are always the snack and dessert vendors to dip your toe in the waters for freshly made Mexican Street food! 

#10 Sundays on Paseo de Reforma

The Paseo de la Reforma in Mexico City is more than just a roadway; it is a street filled with history and symbolism. The long, wide avenue was originally built in the 19th century to connect the city center to Chapultepec Park. The Paseo de la Reforma has since evolved into a cultural hub with iconic monuments and fantastical public spaces. But on most days, you miss many of these iconic spots since the road is packed with cars rushing about to get from one end of the city to another. But not on Sundays…

Sundays on the Paseo de Reforma feature car-free streets. The busy thoroughfare is closed to traffic, and the roadway is open only to bikes, scooters, runners and pedestrians. The once loud street, thick with car exhaust, is now filled with children playing and people chatting as they cruise along the path on their bikes. The sidewalks are replete with street food vendors and craftspeople selling their wares. It feels like a giant street party. But luckily, it happens every week, so you can almost always take part in your visit. There are many places to rent a bike or a scooter to make traversing the long roadway a breeze. And make sure to make frequent stopes along the way to take in the monuments and snacks you’ll spot along the way.

There are many more amazing things to see and do in Mexico City, but this is a great list to get you started. I feel like with this list, so many parts of what makes Mexico City such an incredible place to visit are truly highlighted. Perhaps these sights will pique your interest and start you off on the right food while planning your first trip to Mexico City.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post What are the Best Must-see Attractions in Mexico City? first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

To find the best of what this neighbourhood in Mexico City has to offer follow this walking tour through the streets of Roma Norte!

Table Of Contents

1. Location
2. History
3. Architecture
4. Where to Stay
5. What Sights to See
6. Where to Shop
7. Where to get the Best Coffee
8. Where to Eat
9. Where to Find the Best Desserts
10. Where to Get a Drink
11. Where to Find the Best Museums

Location

The neighbourhood of Roma Norte, also called Colonial Roma, is located south of the Paseo de la Reforma. And just below the Historic City Centre. Roma Norte’s central location makes it an ideal place for tourists. From here you can easily reach all the best spots in the city in no time!  The Colonial Roma is so large that the area has been divided into the North and South. Avenue Yucatan is the main street that separates Roma Norte and Roma Sud. Each area has developed their own distinctive character. There is also a third district called La Romita. Today, we are taking a tour of Roma Norte. Roma Norte is by far the most lively and largest neighbourhood in the area.

History

Roma was one of the first upper-class neighbourhoods built in Mexico City. And I don’t just mean built in the 20th century. In 1529, the area that now makes up Roma was granted to Hernán Cortés by the Spanish Crown. During the colonial period, the Counts of Miravalle continued to control the area. This brought in more and more wealthy Spainairds into the neighbourhood. And with them the need for lavish residences.

Eduardo Walter Orrin

But it wasn’t until the 19th century that we start to see the creation of the Roma we find today. And we have the strangest person to thank for the overall look and feel of the neighbourhood. And that is Englishman Eduardo Walter Orrin. Orrin made his wealth in the Circus of all places. The Orrin Circus arrived in Mexico City in 1872 after touring the US and South America.

The circus was a HUGE success in Latin America. It was so popular that Orrin was able to afford to build a permanent venue. The circus operated inside, what is now the Teatro Blanquita in the Centro Histórico, for over 26 years! When Eduardo Orrin finally closed the circus, he turned his eyes on real estate development. And there was no place more promising than the area just south of the historic centre…what we know today as Roma Norte!

The Creation of Roma

In the late 19th century, the wealthy elite of Mexico City were fleeing the crumbling Centro Histórico. The Centro Histórico was literally sinking into the ground and the old architecture was deteriorating rapidly. The aristocracy of Mexico City were looking for wide-open spaces in which to build their mansions. They dreamt of modern, colonial architecture. Orrin, whose circus operated in the historic centre, heard these cries. So Orrin went about purchasing land to the south.

The name “Roma” was also Orrin’s idea and came from Circo Romano (Roman Circus.) Although somewhat dissimilar to today’s circus, the Roman Circus was the inspiration for his own money-making enterprise. Even the streets around Roma were inspired by the circus. Many of the roads were named after the Mexican cities where the Orrin Circus had travelled. You’ll find Puebla, Oxaca, Colima, Córdoba, Morelia and more!

Porfirio Era

Porfirio Diaz and his government were also interested in aiding the creation of this upper-class neighbourhood. The president was enthralled with the European cities he visited on his travels. He longed to make Mexico City as impressive as those European cities he so badly envied. Diaz and his government provided rich and modern infrastructure to the new colonial. This included running water lines and sewers. Sewers were a truly modern convenience that, at the time, only was available in the Roma neighbourhood!

Roma soon became a European aristocratic enclave. Inspired by the elegant boulevards of Paris, the street in Roma were widened. And many of the main streets were installed with double rows of trees. Medians were built in the centre of the roads to provide relaxing pedestrian walkways. In the 1940s and 1950s, the area drew in the best of the best of Mexico City. Artists, businessmen and politicians arrived in style. Famous chilangos such as Álvaro Obregón, David Alfaro Siqueiros and former president Mexico Luis Echeverría all found themselves living within these “walls”. 

The Great Downfall of Roma

But in the 1950s, after WWII, the city began instituting lower rent regulations in these neighbourhoods. This act brought in more lower-class residents. The wealthier class railed against these newcomers, and many started to leave the area. More exclusive and luxurious areas like Polanco began to pop up. Drawing the remainder of the upper class out of Roma for good.

In addition to the new residents, taller buildings began to pop up around the colonial mansion. “Ruining” the look of the peaceful “town,” causing a further exodus. But the tall buildings weren’t just an eyesore; they were unknowing starting to disturb the ground below them.

This all came to a head on September 19th, 1985, at seven in the morning. An earthquake with a magnitude of 8.0 hit Mexico City. Thousands of buildings were levelled, and over 10,000 people lost their life. In Roma alone, 472 buildings were partially or entirely collapsed. The neighbourhood fell into complete disrepair. The population declined from 95,000 inhabitants in 1970 to 35,000 in 1995.

Reconstruction efforts were slow in these lower-class neighbourhoods. Regulations were put into place that no new apartment buildings could be constructed or older constructions adapted. This was to ensure the area remained intact until it could be repaired. But, by happy accident, this ended up preserving the remaining historic buildings for future residents and travellers.

The Renaissance of Roma

In the last 10 years, the area has started to slowly become more and more gentrified. We are witnessing the rebirth and renaissance of Colonial Roma. Low rents and beautiful architecture brought the hipsters who have started to transform the streets once more. Today the area is home to some of the cities trendiest cafes, incredible street art, awe-inducing pastries, curated cocktails and top-class restaurants.

Architecture

Porfirian Art Deco

There are two main identifiable architecture styles in Roma; Porfirian Art Deco and Colonial Revival Style. The iconic architecture of Roma is marked by the fact that the new residents rejected the traditional Mexcian Baroque architecture found in the historic centre. That iconic red tezontle stone was replaced with wrought iron, crucial for highlighting the Art Deco elements.

French and Italian influences were also incorporated with Gothic and Moorish designs. Today, this combination of design styles is called “Porfirian architecture,” named after President Porfirio Diaz. Traditional Mexican brick and ceramics were replaced with modern metal and glass. Houses in this style were constructed up until 1910. 

Colonial Revival Style

After the Mexican Revolution (1910-1920), the houses and buildings took on a Neo-Colonial or Colonial Revival Style. The era after the Revolution served as the antithesis to the Porfirian. The new President Venustiano Carranza‘s government even gave out federal tax exemptions to those who built houses in the colonial-revival style. These neo-colonial houses displayed a sense of nationalism and featured plateresque elements, pinnacles and mixtilinear arches. Architects brought back traditional materials such as tezontle, cantera and Talavera tiles. As we walk along the streets, see if you can spot the various styles as we go!

Where to Stay

If you’d like to stay in Roma Norte, there are many boutique hotel options for you to explore. It might seem easy to use services like Airbnb as there are tons of low-cost options. But Airbnb has continued to cause rent inflation and rental shortages for locals. Everything we love about the area is on the verge of disappearing. Roma could easily turn into a tourist-only sector if this continues.

On the other hand, hotels create hundreds of jobs for the locals who live here. And in Roma Norte, they are some of the most beautiful hotels anywhere in the world! Many also have kitchens and family-style rooms to serve larger groups. So definitely give them a look before you go straight to Airbnb. In the end, if Airbnb is more budget-friendly for you, I totally get it. Just be sure to do your best to give as much of your time and money into the neighbourhood. To ensure you are continuing to support the hyper-local community.

Stanza $

Stanza is a great budget option just to the east of Roma Norte. It is located on the edge of the urban Pushkin Park. Despite the low price, the hotel has a great vibe and is located in a safe and quiet area. For the best rooms ask for one facing the park. The rooms are a little dated but clean and well-maintained. Perfect for those on a budget!

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Ignacia $$$

Ignacia Guest House is truly one of the best secrets hidden in Roma Norte. Under the purple blossoms of the Jacaranda tree lining the streets, you will be welcomed home. The house was originally an old 20th-century mansion that has been transformed into just six elegant suites. Since there are so few rooms, everyone who stays here feels like family.

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Each suite is designed differently, blending history and Mexican artisan tradition with contemporary design. In fact, Ignacia Guest House has been internationally acclaimed for its interior design, architecture, and restoration. During the day, guests can abandon their daily routine and enjoy the historical details, gardens, and spaces. They can have breakfast at the communal tables or in the garden under an orange tree in the morning. Book well in advance as the rooms are highly coveted by anyone in the know who visits Mexico City.

La Valise $$$

La Valise feels like the epitome of Mexico City living. It is a blend of luxury, comfort, style and relaxation. A little slice of heaven on the streets of La Roma. Located inside a 1920’s French-style townhouse, there are only three suites, each located on a different floor of the building. So you really feel like you have the place to yourself! Like you’re just a neighbourhood resident. Each room is uniquely decorated with Mexican antiques and one-of-a-kind interior decor. A splurge but a well-worth splurge!

What Sights to See

Plaza Río de Janeiro

One of the best places to enjoy a morning coffee and pastry is inside the stunning Plaza Río de Janeiro. Plaza Río de Janeiro (or Rio de Janeiro Square) was originally named Plaza Roma but it was renamed in 1922. Mexico was invited to attend the Brazilian centenary celebration in 1922 and wanted to pay tribute to their brotherly city. So they decided instead of building an entirely new park, they would just rename this one for them.

The columns of cacti that line the park’s edge create these wonderful architectural elements created out of the natural environment. The park’s pathways swirl and curl around the central parkette. Creating this almost mesmerizing and yet peaceful atmosphere.

Michelangelo’s David

One of the park’s most interesting features is the replica statue of Michelangelo‘s David. It stands in the centre of the park, looking over the central fountain. One might wonder why there is an Italian statue smack dab in the centre of the park dedicated to Brazil. In truth, there is no connection between the two. Simply, the city architects of the time were on a quest to turn Mexican parks into European squares. Going so far as creating these exact replicas. We will see more and more along the rest of our tour so keep an eye out!

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Edificio Rio de Janeiro

On either side of the park, you’ll find some incredible examples of old colonial and art deco mansions. Their stone and wrought iron Juliet balconies looking out towards the park are draped in their own set of greenery. The most important house surrounding the park is the Edificio Rio de Janeiro. It is found on the east side of the park. Easily identifiable by the large green awning and art deco lettering that marks its entrance. While the building is today called ‘Edificio Rio de Janeiro’ years ago, the house went by a very different name.

La Casa de las Brujas  

While the lower, street-level exterior is covered in wrought iron and art deco elements, these were added in the 1930s. The original castle-inspired red-brick building was built in 1908. The house was called the La Casa de las Brujas (The Witch’s House). It was nicknamed as such due to the pointed tower located in the corner of the building. It was thought to perfectly resemble a pointed witch’s hat. But the witch symbolism doesn’t stop there! Many people thought that the windows below the “hat” resembled a human face. The (now) bricked up ovals were the yes, the lintel was the nose and the pointed balcony the mouth. To get the effect, you need to look at the house from the northwest corner. And trust me, it’s hard to miss!

Rumours began to spread that only a witch could have devised such a creation. Stories say her name was La Pachita. And she would watch people coming about their business in the park from her windows. Perhaps looking for victims or buyers of her next spell. But sadly, the truth is much more boring. The house was designed by architect Enrique Sánchez Sedeño. He was working under the Porfiriato and was influenced by European designs. He drew on elements from Gothic architecture and Viennese-style windows to create the house we see today.

Iglesia de la Sagrada Familia

On Orizaba street, you’ll find the Iglesia de la Sagrada Familia. This church sits on the corner of Puebla street. The exterior of the church is awe-inspiring, filled with rich neo-romanesque decorations. This was the first church in Colonial Roma in 1910. One of my favourite aspects of the church is the neo-Gothic rose window above the entrance. The window is surrounded by ornate stone carvings of palm leaves. The stunning Italian-made stained glass windows are also filled with organic designs of plants and flowers. As the entirety of Roma feels like a living garden, the church fits right into that blooming environment.

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Casa Universitaria del Libro UNAM

Kiddie corner to the church is the Casa Universitaria del Libro UNAM, another iconic building from the history of Roma. It was built in 1920 and originally designed as an elegant residence for Joaquín Baranda MacGregor, a preeminent politician. The mansion was created by the same designer as the church. He chose for this house the art deco style so popular at the time. Today the house is iconic for its green wrought iron scalloped gates and bright green shutters. The building is a venue for various academic activities and book publications from the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México.

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If you have the chance to pop your head inside, definitely take advantage of that opportunity! The entrance features a large irregular hexagonal hall, with a central staircase leading up to a great stained glass. The stained glass features the church of San Francisco Javier in Tepotzotlan, one of the most beautiful churches in Mexico.

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Fuente de Cibeles

In the center of this large roundabout along Plaza Villa de Madrid is a mammoth circular plaza featuring a dramatic fountain. The Fuente de Cibeles made a replica of the original fountain of the same name found in Madrid. The city to which the plaza is also named. The community around the plaza were primarily residents originally from Spain. They wanted to bring something to Mexico City that represented their homeland. It was designed as a symbol to link both cities in their shared brotherhood. 

The Goddess Cybele

The fountain features the goddesses Cibele. She is the mistress of wild nature, sitting in her bronze chariot. Cibele is pulled by her companions, her two pet lions. They are a male and female, representing fertility. Cibele also is the godess of protection, also symbolized in the fearsome lions. She carries an oversized key in her hand, which indicates her power over earth. In the other hand, she carries a sceptre, a symbol of her power over the seasons.

Fittingly, as Cibele represents the seasons, she is surrounded in Springtime by Mexico City’s most impressive seasonal features; the Jacaranda trees. The best time of to see the Jacaranda trees is during later March and early April. This is when they are in full bloom and create a halo of purple blossoms all around the plaza. The plaza is surrounded by some very hip cafes and restaurants. It is a great place to return to while away a lazy afternoon.

Avenida Álvaro Obregón

Many people refer to Avenida Álvaro Obregón as the “main street” in Roma Norte. The best way to explore this street is to step into the pedestrian median. Walking between the two lanes of traffic. The design of the street was meant to replicate French boulevards, which also featured central medians.

Along the median, you can stop and sit on one of the many benches. Take a moment to relax under the trees or study the sculptures found along the way. The central walkway is home to bustling art and an antique market which pops up on the weekends.

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Remember Michalengo’s David we saw before? Well, the sculptures along this street are also replicas of famous Italian works of art. They feature characters from Greek and Roman mythology. There are twelve sculptures in total. The fountains include copies of Mirón‘s Discobolus, Michelangelo‘s Bacchus and the Venus de Milo.

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Edificio Balmori

Edificio Balmori / Balmori Building was built in 1922 and later renovated in 1991 to restore the damage from the 1985 earthquake. The building was designed to feature an eclectic combination of historical styles. The new Colonial Roma aimed to imitate European architecture. But they went about it in their own unique ways. This resulted in the amalgamations of style we see today. Study the building for long enough and you can spot; classical, art nouveau, belle epoque, and even Art Deco decorations.

Plaza Luis Cabrera

The delightful Plaza Luis Cabrera parkette is named after politician Luis Cabrera. Cabrera was known for speaking out against the government of Álvaro Obregón. He fought to protect the rights of the lower class. The square was designed to mirror Plaza Rio de Janeiro.

Beat Writers in Roma

The park sits on the edge of Orizaba and Zacatecas Street, a popular area in the 1950s for American writers. Authors like Jack Kerouac, William Burroughs and Allen Ginsberg made their pilgrimage to CDMX. Some of the writers were fleeing America for what they saw as a more romanticized, foreign land. Others (Burroughs) were literally fleeing drug possession charges. Either way, they saw Mexico City as somewhere they could indulge in their vices. In the 1950s, Roma was on the decline. These ex-pats could get away living in robust colonial mansions, drinking and eating all day for very little money.

Famously, Kerouac wrote many stories of his adventures using peyote. He and Burroughs would take it together and lie in the grass in the Plaza Luis Cabrera. Regaling each other of what they saw in their hallucinations. But Roma wasn’t all champagne and roses for these writers. William Burroughs lived just off Avenida Álvaro Obregón (where we stopped for tacos). It was here in 1951 that, after one too many drinks, Burroughs’s life would change forever. He and his wife were playing with his pistol when he accidentally shot her in the head. She died on the spot. Despite being accidental, Burroughs was convicted to a two-year suspended sentence. But the trauma of the incident spurred him on to become a better writer. And perhaps the reason he is so prolific today.

Huerto Roma Verde

Continuing east along Coahuila, walk until you reach the large intersection at Avenue Yucatan.. Across the street, on the east side, you will be able to spot a bright blue column. This giant structure is made of old water jugs that form the monumental entrance to the Huerto Roma Verde. Huerto Roma Verde is a cultural centre made from recovered property once destroyed by the 1985 earthquake. The land was abandoned for 27 years and used as a dumping ground. But Paco Ayala, who initiated the project, saw the 8,000 square feet as an opportunity. He saw the space as a place for regrowth and environmental education through art.

The self-managed community found inside these walls was created by grassroots environmental activists. It began as a small shared vegetable garden. Where residents who lived in small apartments without outdoor space could come and grow their own fresh food. From there, it grew to have a storage tower to collect rainwater, a recycling centre for solid waste and even several farm animals! Their aim is to focus on sustainability and promote the development of communities that are integrated into their local environments.

Much of the space is designed to be an urban garden with mind-bending art sculptures created within the living environment. While you can wander the space and just appreciate the artworks, you can also stop into the various pop-up businesses. They sell everything from organic cosmetics, vegan desserts and fresh coffee. There is also a small amphitheatre that frequently hosts musical performances. So be sure to poke your head around to see what you can find!

Ecoducto Río Piedad 

It might sound strange to send visitors to a highway as a sight to see in Mexico City but there is something extraordinary about this particular part of the Mexico City roadway. Walking halfway across the large overpass, stop in the middle of the road. Here you’ll see a long, plant-incrusted walkway called the Ecoducto Río Piedad.

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A Living Purifier

If you’ve ever travelled to New York, you’ll have heard of the high-line. A 1.45-mile-long elevated green park created on a former New York Central Railroad. Well, this is the same kind of concept here in Mexico City. This pedestrian path is surrounded on both sides by trees and aquatic plants. You’ll see people out for a run or walking their dogs. All the while meandering along atop one of the busiest highways in the city. The entire path extends from Chilpancingo metro to Monterrey Avenue with over 4,800 square meters of vegetation dotted across the path.

But the Ecoducto isn’t just a pretty pathway; it has an essential purpose. This is a recovered public space, with a system that cleans the polluted water out of the Piedad River. The water is piped in, and the living ecosystem atop the cement is fed by the water and purifies it in the process. The entire system captures 50 tons of carbon per year. And pumps out about 1% of the drainage water in Mexico City. While that might not seem like a lot, it is a step in the right direction. Hopefully, in the future, they will be able to create more of these beautiful systems that serve the environment and the community.

Mercado Medellin

Mercado Medellín, or Medellin Market, is my favourite farmer’s market in all of Mexico City. Not only is the marketplace large enough to feature everything you’d want in one place, it somehow still retains that friendly neighbourhood atmosphere. The market never feels too crowded and definitely not like it’s only there for the tourists. Shopping here makes you feel like a local and allows you to experience an authentic Mexican market.

The Mercado Medellín is easily identifiable by its red, green and yellow geometric painted exterior. Lookout on one side for a huge, decorated multicolour mural. This marketplace has stood here for over 150 years. When the market was first established, it was in the centre of an immigrant community in Mexico City. Colombians, Cubans, Brazilian, Venezuelans and even Jewish immigrants all found themselves in the middle of the city in a neighbourhood now called Roma Sur.

The immigrants would import food and goods from their home country to sell here in their new home in Mexico City. Up until the earthquake of 1985, Jewish Mexicans owned and operated the market. But after the quake, its ownership passed hands over to the Cubans, therein earning the market its nickname; “Little Havana.”

The entire marketplace is now home to over 500 different stalls. While you can have a blast just wandering around on your own, check out our complete guided tour if you want to know the best shops to visit! And what you NEED to buy. 

Tepeji Street

If you are a fan of cinema, you should consider heading down to Tepeji street where you’ll find #22 Tepeji. This unassuming street is home to the exterior shooting location of the house featured in the award-winning film ‘Roma‘ by Alfonso Cuaron. In addition to this famous sight, if you look right across the street, you’ll see the real-life childhood home of the director. A plaque at #22 Tepeji commemorates this house as the film’s shooting location.

Roma and Mexico City in 1970

The film ‘Roma‘ is a must-watch for anyone visiting Mexico City. It follows the life of a live-in Mixteco housekeeper of a middle-class family. The Mixtecos, are the indigenous peoples of Mexico inhabiting the region known as La Mixteca. It is Cuarón’s semi-autobiographical take on life in the Colonia Roma in the 1970s. The film’s backdrop portrays the tensions over the land that is Colonia Roma. It shows student protestors fighting for the democratization of education. These freedom fighters were also asking for control of the university budget to be handed over to the students and teachers. They wanted political freedom for workers and peasants and quality education for everyone! They also fought for greater cultural diversity but sadly, their efforts resulted in the Corpus Christi Massacre of 1971. Nearly 120 protesters were killed, among them a fourteen-year-old boy. A sad but harsh reality of Mexico City’s history.

Where to Shop

Bazar El Oro

On Saturdays and Sundays, the Bazar El Oro pops up on the corner of El Oro and Colima street. Just down the road from the Fuente de Cibeles. It’s a wonderful and eclectic neighbourhood market filled with shops set up under brightly coloured tarps. Everything from traditional quesadillas to clothing, accessories, music, and coffee is on-sale here!

El Parián 

Just past Jalapa Street, stop just inside El Parián, the art-nouveau arcade. This incredible colonial building features eye-catching art-nouveau-style windows. Framing the windows are incredibly detailed stoned carvings with charming characters encircling the building.

Stepping inside, you’ll be able to admire the newly renovated covered shopping arcade. Shops line either side of the passageway. The interior is drenched in light, thanks to the glass ceiling above your head. The new arcade features a fantastical tiled floor, art deco-style decorations and a wash of greenery. It makes you feel like shopping inside a botanical garden!

Librería Ático

A few doors down from El Parián, you’ll come to a small store piled high are thousands of books. Librería Ático is one of those bookstores that feels lived in, in the best way possible. There is a combination of cheap, used books and antique volumes over 100 years old. While you might not find a huge selection of English-language books here, I love perusing the vintage collections. I always search out vintage coffee table books filled with pictures. They make for great conversation pieces. And you can use them to help study your Spanish!

Cafebrería El Péndulo Roma

If you prefer shopping for newer books, you must make your way over to Cafebrería El Péndulo Roma. Cafebrería El Péndulo is a bookstore chain, found across Mexico City. But each store has its own unique personality. Standing three storeys tall when you walk inside, look up to see all the bookshelves towering over you. It almost feels like entering the M.C Escher version of a bookstore. Péndulo always carries a wide selection of English language books. Real plants are dotted around the shop, bringing life into every corner you step inside.

HAPPENING

HAPPENING Roma Norte is one of my absolute favourite stores in Roma Norte. I come here all the time to find super unique, chic and modern gifts and clothing. One of my favourite things to bring back from trips is beautiful art prints and this store has some of the best. They don’t feel touristy at all but present gorgeous views of my favourite parts of Mexico City. Their selection of hand-made ceramics is also incredible and so aesthetically beautiful. If you’re looking for a really beautiful gift to bring home that feels like it imbues the energy of Mexico City this is the place to come to get it!

Vintage Hoe

One of the issues I find when visiting Vintage Stores in Mexico City is that the most popular ones focus too heavily on American Fashion. And while I think that’s wonderful for the locals, who see that as something unique, I’m looking for more of a local focus on vintage. And luckily for me, I found that inside Vintage Hoe. Although they still carry lots of American Brands, I find the vibes here to be genuinely representative of Mexico City. Walking inside the door, the well-curated, colourful clothing racks feel like entering a boutique clothing store rather than a vintage shop. In addition to clothing, they also have an incredible collection of accessories that are the perfect addition to lift any simplistic outfit.

Roma Records

If you’re a music of vinyl head, you must check out Roma Records. You’ll recognize this place from down the street by the hundreds of music stickers plastered over the front of the store, creating this incredible patchwork collage of musical taste. The store is small and a touch overpriced, but their curation is one of the reasons buying records here feels really special. Visiting record stores in a new city is always a great way to see what is new or popular in town. When I came in, I first saw a rare Placebo vinyl, and I was immediately excited to flip through the rest of their collection. Definitely stop in here if you’re in town.

Librería La Moraleja

Hiding away inside the charming antique glass windows of Librería La Moraleja are some of the most precious books in the city. Librería La Moraleja specializes in rare printings and modern but independent publishers. This book store is a great place to come to support local writers and publishers, and they really feature some gorgeous cover art that you’ll be proud to feature on your shelf. If you don’t read much Spanish but want to support the store, they frequently have a great selection of art books, postcards and prints that you can still buy to help treasure trove stores like this stay in business!

Tienda Trama

Further east along Coahuila Street is the joyful interiors of Tienda Trama. This shop is cooperative, meaning that everything you find here is made by a series of different local craftspeople and designers. So even if a smaller producer couldn’t afford to open their own shop, they can still sell their products direct to the customers. You can find everything from embroideries, ceramics, hand-made contemporary arts, kids’ clothes, and beautiful jewelry. All locally made and giving back to the community.

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I’m obsessed with buying mugs everywhere I travel. They feel like the perfect “souvenir” as it’s something I use every day. Pulling a mug out of the cabinet makes me so happy as I remember the travels I took to find it. A mug with one of their custom coffee blends makes the best gift to bring home! It has local flare without feeling too much like a cliche souvenir.

Where to get the Best Coffee

Le Babüin

The best place to start the day is with a good cup of coffee. Head to the southernmost part of the neighbourhood to Le Babüin cafe. This adorable coffee shop, named after the baboon in their logo, is a perfect slice of morning cheer. The staff are so friendly, and the caffeine that drips out of the espresso machines is first class. The sign above their door translates into the quote, “Everyone should believe in something. I think I’ll have another coffee.” Love it.

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Qūentin Café

The first time I went to Qūentin Café was early morning. But despite the sun barely rising above the horizon, the doorway was filled with people chatting to each other in such joyful voices; I thought a party was going on! Everyone seemed to know each other and were saying their morning greetings, dogs in tow, and it seemed like the most friendly atmosphere. But in addition to this, they have some of the best cappuccinos in the entire city!

Cardinal Casa de Café

Cardinal is one of the more popular chains in Mexico City that still feels like an independent coffee shop! Their baristas are friendly and know how to make the perfect cup of coffee. My favourite is their Cardinal cortado which mixes equal amounts of expresso and warm milk. It’s the ideal wake-me-up drink to get your day started right in the morning. This location is right on the corner of a local street, and the people-watching opportunities here are fantastic!

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Forte

Forte Coffee Shop has the most modern, historical and industrial vibe, all combined together. Their coffee bar is located in the center of the room, where everyone huddles together in the morning, chatting and drinking their early sunrise brew. In addition to gorgeous coffee, they also have homebaked goods, including mouth-watering pastries and some of the best homemade sourdough bread! This place is known for its incredible music selection, and I love coming here to just sit and listen to the tunes while I write in my diary.

Cucurucho Roma

Cucurucho Roma is a newer coffee shop that opened up in the southern part of the neighbourhood. But it has quickly become one of the hippest places in town! One of the reasons that drew me into this place was the charming and imaginative illustrations plastered all over the walls! These adorable characters feel like they imbue the personalities of the owners and visitors alike. They have some unique coffee blends, like their Horchata con espresso, that are lovely options for those who don’t like pure espresso.

Farmacia Internacional

Farmacia Internacional is one of those coffee shops almost hidden inside a sunken interior that once served as an actual pharmacy. Much of the original interior remains, like the old painted brick and antique tiled floor. It’s such a cool location with great coffee, and I love that it feels like a slice of preserved architectural history.

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Where to Eat

Panadería Rosetta

There is no better place to start your morning in Roma Norte than at Panadería Rosetta. Panadería Rosetta is a café that combines the best of French and European traditions with Mexican ones. The café offers a daily selection of baked goods. So there is always something extra special to try depending on what day you come by. They offer both sweet and savoury bread and sandwiches, cakes, muffins and more! Everything hidden away in their little glass cases is to die for. Their baked good is so delicious that this bakery delivers their goods to dozens of cafes around town. But I like coming right to the source!

Puebla Street Food

Puebla Street is famous for being packed with street vendors. Here is my quick guide on how to sample them safely:

• Choose freshly squeezed juice over agua frescas
• Eat in the morning to ensure food hasn’t been sitting out all day.
• Always eat food that you can see is being freshly cooked.
• Eat from vendors where the chef doesn’t handle the money or wears gloves when touching it.
• Avoid uncooked vegetables and fruit that may have been washed in unfiltered water
• Choose the stands with a line – a good sign they are reputable and the food is turned over quickly.
• Sanitize your hands before eating
• Avoid salsas and crema at street food stalls. It’s hard to tell if it has been left out in the sun without refrigeration.

Orinoco

If you were hesitant to try the street tacos, the famous Orinoco Taco is the perfect place to grab lunch. This is one of the most popular taco shops in Roma Norte. Best known for their famous trompo or taco al pastor. Taco al pastor or “shepherd style” tacos are made from spit-grilled pork. The dish was created after Lebanese immigrants introduced shawarma to Mexicans. The pork is marinaded in adobada (red chile) paste and spit roasted with a large pineapple placed on top.

When it is served, it is companied by sliced onions, cilantro and the all-important roasted pineapple. Added to give it that hint of sweetness. Taco al pastor is my favourite kind of taco, and there is no visit to Mexico City without trying them. You should really try all three traditional varieties to decide which one is your favourite. Pair the meal with an agua fresca and, of course, a side of Chicharron (fried pork rinds.)

Mercado Roma

If you’d rather grab something more substantial, make a detour along Insurgentes. Walk along for about eight minutes until you reach C. Querétaro. Just a few steps from the intersection is the food paradise of the Mercado Roma. The sprawling three-story “market” is more of a food hall. There are no fruit and vegetable stands here. Instead, you’ll find upscale tapas, vegan tacos, a rooftop beer garden and boutique-style dessert stands. The aim of the market was to bring the concept of a gourmet market together with the local community. You can sit around communal tables and perhaps even make a few new friends inside. 

Por Siempre Vegana

Right across the street from the market is one of the precious few vegan taquerias in the city. Por Siempre Vegana or Forever Vegan, located along Coahuila Street, prides itself on making traditional-style Mexican tacos without the meat! Being a vegan visitor in Mexico City is definitely getting more and more accessible over the years and places like this are the reason! Even if you’re a meat-eater it’s worth checking out. It’s impressive to see the techniques and ingredients they use to create these incredible dishes.

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Restaurante Rosetta

Make your way back up Orizaba to Colima Street. Colima Street is home to some of the best restaurants in the area. To end your evening in Roma Norte, make reservations at Rosetta restaurant. This incredible culinary experience is located inside an old villa whose courtyard has been restored to serve a the restaurant’s dining room. The entire place is filled with plants, making you feel as though you are dining al fresco. The ambiance is outstanding, and the dishes are ever-changing to suit the season. Locally sourced produce is reflected in the ever-changing menu. I always lean towards the chef’s inventive takes on traditional Mexican cusine. Dishes like the white mole with fermented carrots and charcoal are the perfect example of this modern take on classical dishes.

Tamales Doña Emi

If you are craving a snack, hop over to Tamales Doña Emi. If you’ve never managed to be up early in the morning to catch the street tamale vendor, this is a great place to try tamales! There are dozens of different varieties here to try. They have all the traditional fillings and some more eclectic and modern variations as well. Something for everyone.

Mercado 100

On the corner of Orizaba and C. Antonio M. Anza, just down the street, is the Mercado 100. The Mercado 100 is held every Sunday. It is one of the most unique markets you’ll find anywhere in the city. What makes the Mercado 100 so special is that they aim to be an ethical marketing alternative for organic, ecological and local producers. The market has been running for the past 8 years, and highlights over 50 producers from all over Mexico.

While there is lots of local produce for sale here, you can also buy packaged products. Everything from; honey, vanilla, sauces, chocolate, spices and more. These are wonderful things to buy to bring a slice of Mexico home with you. There are also local artisans selling their wares and handmade goods. Plus the street food, especially the vegan variety, is always incredibly fresh!

El Hidalguense

If you’re in town on Friday, Saturday or Sunday do you need to check out El Hidalguense! El Hidalguense is one of the top traditional Mexican restaurants in the entire city. The restaurant’s classic, old-world interior design makes you feel like you’re stepping back in time. And the dishes are made to bring your taste buds right back there with you. The restaurant specializes in barbacoa (barbeque) lamb tacos which send anyone drooling upon entering the restaurant.

This restaurant is only open on the weekends because the process takes all week to ensure the meat is perfectly cooked. The method of preparation dates all the way back to pre-Columbian times. They begin by digging a hole in the ground and covering it with heated stones. The stones heat the hole for an entire day before the core temperate is hot enough to cook the meat.

After this, the prepared sheep is wrapped in maguey leaves. The leaves give the meat insulation from the hot stones and flavour the meat while it cooks. The oven is then covered in the same leaves and a layer of earth. A fire is lit on top, and the meat is left to cook for around 12 hours or more. The result is incredible and a must–order from El Hidalguense. The atmosphere here is like walking into a huge family party, that has already gotten underway. Families gather to share large platters of slow-cooked meat. Even visitors like you will feel like family by the end of the meal.

Huset

If you’re looking for a place to eat under one of the most picturesque outdoor patios in the city, look no further than Huset. Huset serves up what they call “country cooking” with their unique wood-fired oven-prepared plates. Sitting outside at the communal tables, eating these elevated dishes, really feels like you’re inside a magical garden and is such a memorable place to find yourself on a warm evening. 

Lalo!

If you want to go to brunch and be guaranteed a smile, then you must visit Lalo! Lalo! is another popular brunch spot located in the Roma neighbourhood. Lalo! is the nickname of the owner and acclaimed chef Eduardo Garcia. Brunch is bustling here, so be prepared to wait a while to get a table but trust me, it’s worth it.

Painted on the cafe walls are these incredible colourful, feel-good drawings by Belgian graffiti artist Blue Warrior. They say you eat with your eyes, and being surrounded by these positive and happy-inducing images; you can’t help but eat while filled with pure joy. The most popular items on the menu are their huevos con chorizo and the Huevos fritos con salsa ranchers.

Lardo

Lardo is a beautiful brunch spot in the La Condesa neighbourhood. It’s located inside the old apartment buildings built by THE Condesa that the district is named after. I love how the restaurants are almost hidden away behind the crawling plants that cover the facade of the building. This area of town is so busy on the weekend, and the ambience outside the restaurant is just intoxicating. The menu features hip Mexican-European fusion food, which is as delicious to eat as it is mesmerizing to look at. 

Don’t leave without trying the Fried egg, chile con carne and avocado. The Mexican deconstructed version of avocado toast. My husband is obsessed with their selection of granola, and their baked granola served with red berries, and almond milk is a playful take on cereal. Reservations are recommended at this place since it’s one of the most popular spots in Condesa.

Comedor de los Milagros

To end your evening in Roma Sur, head up to the Comedor de los Milagros. The amazing communal party atmosphere inside is palpable. Comedor de los Milagros is a Latin American market, where you can try food from seven different Latin American countries. There are seven restaurant booths surrounding the wide-open room where guests dine on long, communal picnic benches. The food is representative of Argentina, Brazil, Colombia, Uruguay, Peru, Venezuela and Mexico. Peruvian ceviche, Argentinian steak, and even a slew of vegan options as well can all be found inside!

The upper balcony is covered in wall murals and living plants to give the vibe of being outside! It’s the most lively place to be at night, but on the weekend, be prepared to wait in line as it’s one of the hottest places in town. But well worth the effort to get inside!

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Where to Find the Best Desserts

Helados Cometa

In my opinion, no meal (especially dinner) is complete without dessert! Head next door to Helados Cometa for some of the best ice creams in the entire city! Everything here is made from scratch. Unlike other shops in the city with an overwhelming menu, their selection is small but flawless. Ensuring every bite is made to perfection. Even their cones are handmade and have an added element of salt which wonderfully complements the sweet cream! Try the honey and pistachio, or rose and pistachio (pretty much anything with pistachio!)

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Where to Get a Drink

Casa Prunes

Just south of Cafebrería El Péndulo is the Casa Prunes. The Casa Prunes is hidden away on historic Chihuahua street. Despite its rather obscure location, it is one of the best remaining examples of Art Nouveau architecture in Roma. True art-nouveau has all but disappeared. Save for this location. It is indeed a rare bird. The architects were inspired by the natural forms of the prune tree. You can see the arching branches and even bunches of prunes hanging off the stone window carvings.

Despite its artistic impact, the house was left abandoned for years. Only recently has it been renovated. You can now step inside and enjoy a drink in this chic cocktail bar.

Gin Gin Álvaro Obregón

For those who don’t want the night to end, or like me, want to poke their heads into every building, you can safely bar hop along with the Avenida Álvaro Obregón. Gin Gin Álvaro Obregón is my favourite bar, thanks for their out-of-this-world, skeletal decor! Their cocktail menu is IMMENSE and highlights (as is the name of the bar infers) gin! As the night wears on, a DJ will sometimes play live music. While this can get very loud, if that’s your vibe, you’ll really enjoy yourself.

Licorería Limantour

Licorería Limantour is one of the most popular bars in Mexico City. It just made it onto the World’s Best Bars list at #6! One of the reasons it has made such an impact is its menu. It combines the trendiest cocktails with tried and true recipes that stand the test of time. I sampled so many drinks with flavour combinations I never imagined, but they tasted like perfection! Licorería Limantour’s locations are suberbly decorated with elegant interiors that match the friendly vibe of the place. Reservations are recommended as this place is one of the most popular spots in the city!

Café de Nadie

I’m not going to lie; when walking by this bar, I glanced at the drinks menu and immediately walked straight based on the names of the drinks. With names like “Standing Next to Me,” “My Mistakes were made for you,” and “The Meeting Place,” I was entranced by the originality. Little did I know, this bar is known for its incredible music! The nights often feature amazing DJs spinning vintage vinyl records combined with some trendiest music in town. This is the place to come if you want to learn more about the laid-back music scene in Mexico City.

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Where to Find the Best Museums

Looking to find a way to spend the rest of your afternoon? Consider a visit to one of Roma’s many museums.

MODO Museo del Objeto

My favourite museum in Roma Norte is the MODO Museo del Objeto. I love to study vintage packaging, advertising, and graphic deisgn. These items and practical objects, dating as far back as 1810, tell a rich story about the culture and communities they served. The museum started as one man’s personal collection and today contains over 30,000 items. Bruno Newman is a researcher looking into the history of design and communications. This museum is a wonderful chance for him to share his finding with the rest of us!

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Casa Lamm Culture Center

Casa Lamm is now a fantastic gallery and cultural center. But when it was first built in 1911, it served as an aristocratic residence. Although the family never got around to living in it. The mansion was designed to be emblematic of the Euro-Mexican style. Encompassing as many European design elements as possible. But Casa Lamm manages to do it elegantly where all the ornaments somehow feel cohesive.

After changing hands several times, the house was transformed and saved from utter ruin in 1993. It was turned into the Casa Lamm Culture Center. The centre set out to serve and educate the community in academic and artistic endeavours. Today, students can receive their BA, Master or Doctorates in Art History, Museum Management, Art Curatorship and Creative Writing.

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But the public can enter the centre to explore various public areas. There is the fantastic Liberia Pegaso bookstore. Here you can find some incredible books on the art and architecture of Mexico City. You can also explore their various galleries featuring a rotating list of contemporary artists. You can also explore their gorgeous garden filled with exemplary sculptures from famous and up-and-coming Mexican artists.

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Galleria OMR

If you’re into contemporary, avant-garde art, you should make a point to visit the OMR Gallery. The OMR prides itself on representing emerging and established contemporary artists. Many of these artists are instrumental in the development of Mexico City’s contemporary art scene. The gallery is located inside an industrial-style building, perfect for featuring these contemporary works of art. The space blends together the indoors and outdoors. Allowing the artworks to pour out into the courtyard to best serve the artistic experience.

Lulu Gallery

If indie movies aren’t your thing, head over to the western edge of Roma Sur. Here you can pop your head into the fresh exhibitions at Lulu Gallery. Lulu is an independent, Mexico City-based art project space. The gallery specializes in artworks created out of interesting materials and forms. While some galleries feature work that tends to be more about the message than form, this gallery flips that concept on its head. What you’re left with are some really really cool works of art that draw you in and yet don’t ask too much of your brain. Which I always think is a great way to approach art.

The post Everything You Need to Know About Visiting Colonia Roma in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Despite Casa Decu opening four years, the pandemic took a big bite out of its launch. But this means the hotel still feels brand new! And while there are plenty of other hotels in the area, Casa Decu is truly such a wonderful place at a surprisingly reasonable price! This kind of boutique hotel is a sparkling diamond that will make your entire trip all the more of a relaxing retreat.

Table Of Contents

1. Location
2. The Vision
3. Rooms & Suites
4. Bathroom
5. Pet-Friendly
6. Design
7. Rooftop & Breakfast
8. Gym
9. Pricing
10. Overall Review

Location

Casa Decu is located in the upscale and tourist-friendly neighbourhood of La Condesa, just steps from Avenida Amsterdam. I have lots of different guides all about La Condesa as it is my absolute favourite barrio in Mexico City. La Condesa is safe, historic, has a fantastic coffee and cafe culture and incredible restaurants hidden around every leaf-covered corner. This is the perfect place to stay for anyone who is visiting the city for the first time.

The Vision

Casa Decu‘s philosophy is to create spaces where guests can easily enjoy long-term stays. This means an array of amenities to make it, so you almost don’t want to leave! Even if you’re only in town for a few days, you still have access to these extras. This includes a kitchenette, sofa and dining area in even the smallest and lowest-priced rooms. They believe these additions allows travellers to feel more like a local than just a tourist. And it totally works. While I love the idea of Airbnb, I’ve had so many problems in the past and even ethically it’s not the greatest option to help develop the economy of the place you’re visiting. That’s why options like Casa Decu are great as they feel like staying inside a home but with the comfort of a hotel experience.

Rooms & Suites

Casa Decu only has 27 rooms, so they are technically classified as a boutique hotel. They offer four different options for your stay. The cheapest is the Executive Room with a double bed, separate bathroom and kitchenette. The Junior Suite is slightly larger and features a queen or double bed with a separate bathroom and Living room. The Superior Suite is double the size of the Junior, so you can really feel like you can spread out, but it has the same amenities. The largest option is the Duplex Suite which actually contains a joint with a second bedroom with two independent bathrooms! The largest rooms on the first floor even have a small, enclosed terrace, but these rooms are first come, first serve, and you cannot guarantee one.

My Room

I booked the Executive Room but was upgraded upon arrival to a Junior Suite upon arrival. The great thing about small hotels is they have a little more control over the experience so you will frequently get upgraded if they have the space. The addition of the kitchenette was one of the main reasons I booked the hotel. I adore having a small kitchen since I always buy SO many drinks and love having them kept cool to enjoy when I get back to the hotel after a hotel day. Nothing is better when you get home after a long day than to kick off your shoes and relax for the night with a refreshing local beverage.

My room looked out over the inner courtyard. I was concerned this might be noisy but at night it was totally silent. And I loved sitting at the dinner table watching people come and go. It was like looking out over onto a quiet side street. The bed was lush and comfy and there was lots of space to hang and store my clothes.

Bathroom

The bathroom is very simplistic and some might say a little overly so. I love a bath, so anytime I don’t have that option I’m a bit bummed. But bathtubs are SUPER rare to find in Mexico City so I’ve become used to very rarely finding one. The sink is located outside the separate shower and toilet stall which is bonus if you need to brush your teeth while someone is in the shower. Despite the shower room being so plain and rustic, the water pressure was amazing and I didn’t have any issues with the temperature.

Pet-Friendly

The hotel is divided into two halves, with one area dedicated to medium and small-breed pets! I didn’t hear any noise from the dogs but I sure did have a good time petting those good girls and boys when I ran into them in the morning.

Design

The hotel is located inside a renovated Art Deco apartment building. The original structure dates back to the late 1930s but obviously, the interior has been up hauled for the modern era. But the designers kept so many of the amazing vintage elements that make the building feel like a piece of history. Mexico City, and especially La Condesa, is home to some very unique art deco buildings so getting to stay inside one of them is really special. There is not a corner of the building that doesn’t feel like a great spot for a photo-op!

Rooftop & Breakfast

Although an included breakfast is never that important to me (as I prefer heading right out onto the town to seek out a new coffee shop) I was blown away by the gorgeous rooftop terrace. Up here is where you found the included Continental breakfast every morning. The provided breakfast itself is very basic, but you could order additional dishes at an additional cost extra. That being said, most coffee shops in the area open later than I usually prefer so it was SUPER convenient to be able to wake up and have a coffee on the terrace.

While simple, the breakfast options were great and there was something for everyone. From toast and cereal to fresh fruit, hot pastries and yogurt it was a nice spread to get something in your stomach before heading out for your day. And if you want to save some money having an included breakfast in your hotel stay means you don’t need to spend anything additional in the morning.

The rooftop terrace is actually open 24/7, so you can grab your own snacks and head up here to enjoy some downtime in a semi-private space any time during the day.

Gym

There is a gym right beside the breakfast bar, but as someone who never works out on vacation, I didn’t use it. I saw some people using the gym while I was up on the terrace relaxing, and the machines were new and looked very spiffy.

Pricing

Search for the most updated prices!

Overall Review

Overall, I LOVED staying at the Casa Decu. When I booked the hotel, it was because I was staying in Mexico City as a sool traveller and just looking for a cheap hotel to stay at. And I was blown away by how gorgeous this place was! My husband dropped in quickly to see the room, as he was on his way out of town and was devastated he didn’t get the chance to stay here with me! So we literally CANNOT wait to come back to experience the place together. The kindness of the staff is also worth mentioning as they were so helpful to both me and everyone I saw interact with the front desk. I really hope you add this to your list of places to check out next time you’re booking a trip to Mexico City!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Guide to the Best Hotels in Mexico City, Honest Review of Art Deco Casa Decu first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Honestly any day you’re in town this is a great way to spend an afternoon. But if you’re looking for something chill and fun for your first day this is the Taco Tour for you! La Condesa is a super safe and really relaxing neighbourhood inside bustling Mexico City. This part of town eases you into the history and culture of Mexico City all through food!

About The Taco Stops

All the stops we’ll make along the are established restaurants, so you won’t need to flex any street food savvy just yet. While street food is incredible in Mexico City and something I really recommend everyone try, I realize on your first day you might want to start slow, with more easy-to-find and order at stops. A little bit of Spanish goes a long way as many of these shops don’t have servers that speak English. That being said, since we’re in a touristy area, a few of the restaurants actually have English menus.

DIY Taco Tour La Condesa Map

List of Restaurants:

1. Taquería Orinoco
2. El Pescadito
3. Tacos Don Juan
5. Taquería El Califa
6. Taqueria El Greco
7. Tacos Hola El Güero

Taquería Orinoco

We start our tour in the north of La Condesa, inside Taquería Orinoco. Taquería Orinoco serves up Northern-style tacos. Their menu is tiny, with three types of meat; trompo (al pastor pork), res (beef), and chicharron (fried pork skin). You can order each flavour on a maize (corn) or harina (flour) tortilla. Or even opt for the crispy tostada. In the north, eating a flour tortilla is expected, so if you want to go for the traditional version you’ll order the harina. 

Once you’re seated, either side or outside, they’ll bring you a large platter of their salsas, which are some of my favourites! Get a glass of freshly made agua fresca (I recommend the hibiscus flavour) to wash it all down! Remember, this is just the first stop, so be sure to only order one taco; you can always come back for more.

Address: Avenue Yucatan 3, Hipódromo
Cost: 24-36 pesos/taco

El Pescadito

Take a walk west along with Avenue Álvaro Obregón until you arrive at Parque Espana. This is a beautiful little parkette worth exploring if you’re taking your time along this Taco Tour. Just off the Parque Espana is the famous El Pescadito. El Pescadito is a little chain in Mexico City that specializes in fish tacos! You’ll know you’ve arrived when you see the cheery face of their fish mascot above the sign on the door beckoning you to enter!

The fish on offer here is the smoked marlin which has the most indearing pink colour against the yellow corn tortillas. They also serve up my favourite which are the shrimp (camarón) tacos. You can also get the campechano taco which combines battered fish and shrimp, so you can try both the options! The best of both worlds. One of my favourite aspects of this restaurant is the toppings bar! Here you can get everything from pickled red onions to shredded cabbage, hot sauce and loads of limes! All self-serve so you can really customize your own perfect taco.

Address: Calle Atlixco 38, Colonia Condesa
Cost: 46 pesos/taco

Tacos Don Juan

Directly across the street from El Pescadito is another hot spot in La Condesa; Tacos Don Juan! Hidden under a small, unassuming sign inside an old art deco-inspired building is a family-run joint with a handwritten menu that changes daily. Make sure you place an order for the quesabirria taco. Birria is beef stew, and the tacos are made from this incredibly tender and flavourful meat. The Quesabirria taco is served with a scoop of meat, then covered in cheese and given a quick fry-up on the grill. What you’re left with is this incredible crispy yet still moist taco that is bursting with flavour!

Address: Calle Atlixco 42, Colonia Condesa
Cost: 46 pesos/quesabirria taco

Walk south along Calle Atlixco until you reach Avenue Tamaulipas. From here, it’s only one block east to our next stop; . claims to be where tacos Al Pastor were first invented. However, almost all shops selling tacos Al Pastor seem to make this claim. Nonetheless, this is one of my favourite places to try out the famous taco.

Tacos Al Pastor was more than likely invented in Puebla in 1930. It was made by a Lebanese immigrant family who introduced the concept of shawarma and roasting meat upright on a spit to the Mexican people. The distinct red colour of the meat is made from marinating the meat in achiote paste. This popular marinade is made from annatto seeds, pepper, cumin, coriander, oregano, garlic and cloves. Once the meat is cooked, it’s shaved off the spit giving it the most intoxicating slightly burnt, crispy flavour. The tacos are served with a fresh slice of pineapple, onion, and cilantro. The meat here is super fresh, and I love how they top it off with their tasty salsas.

Address: Avenue Tamaulipas 122, Colonia Condesa, 
Cost: 27 pesos/taco

Taquería El Califa

At the edge of La Condesa sits a huge taco instituion Taquería El Califa. This is one of the big “grill joints” in town where you can get a ton of different types of tacos. The restaurant is as big as its menu with two floors of seating. Although there are lots of different options, for me, this is where to come to get beef tacos. The bistec (marinated flat iron beef) and costilla (beef rib) are very thin slices of beef, quickly grilled up and placed onto a taco. You can dress it up at the table with their various toppings to your preference. I would be sure some onions and avocado, as the pairing is absolutely perfect.

Address: Altata 22, Hipódromo, Cuauhtémoc
Cost: 30 pesos/taco

Taqueria El Greco

Head diagonally west across Avenue Nuevo León towards the intersection of Avenue Michoacán. Here you’ll find Taqueria El Greco which is home to the original Arabian bread tacos. Their Doneraky tacos are made in an Arab style using a pita instead of a tortilla. Another gift from the Lebanese immigrants who came to Mexico City in the 30s. They would change the taco game forever by introducing these new takes on the classic taco. The roasted meat is so tender and fresh and the softness of the fluffy pita absorbs all the fatty drippings making it such a delight to eat! Get it along with cheese and avocado for an absolute taste sensation!

Address: Av Michoacán 54-Local B – 91 And 92, Hipódromo,
Cost: 76 pesos/taco with cheese and avocado

Tacos Hola El Güero

The infamous Hola Tacos is just a block down from El Greco, around the corner on Amsterdam Avenue. This taco shop specializes in Guisado tacos. Guisado means “stew” in Spanish. Various ingredients are marinaded for hours and hours, making them super juicy, flavourful and tender. But you can get much more than just meat there. If they still have any of the nopales (cactus pads) available when you arrive (which they might not as this sells out quickly), I would highly advise trying them out. Nopales are a popular filling and topping on tacos. But I find the stew they make here with them adds so much flavour to the nopales than when they are only grilled. The stewed Poblanas peppers with cream is also one of my favourites!

Address: Amsterdam 135, Hipódromo, Cuauhtémoc
Cost: 23 pesos/taco

We end our tour here on Amsterdam Avenue, across from Parque Mexico. This is the perfect place to take a rest after all those tacos. Take a seat under the pergola around the Teatro Lindbergh or inside the peaceful Audiorama. As you digest, think about your favourite taco of the day and let me know in the comments if you managed to finish the tour! Or if you had to come back for more

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate DIY Taco Tour of La Condesa, Mexico City; a Foodie’s Dream! first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

The Museo Casa Estudio has been remarkably preserved and restored. It is open for visitors to come inside and explore, a chance to step into the intimate spaces where Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo painted, entertained and simply existed together, as apart. Come with us as we explore the entirety of the Museo Casa Estudio and learn more about the artists who lived here and the man who built this revolutionary property!

Guide to the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo

1. Location & Access
2. Admission & Hours
3. About Diego Rivera
4. About Frida Kahlo
5. Juan O'Gorman
6. Modernist Architecture
   • Functionalism
7. Designing the Casa Estudio
   • Life inside the Casa Estudio
   • Studio as Museum
8. Exterior Foyer
   • The Bathrooms
9. Diego's House
   • 2nd Floor Bedroom
10. Diego's Studio
    • Mezzanine
    • Rooftop
    • The Bridge of Diego and Frida's Love
11. Frida's Studio
    • What the Water Gave Me
12. The O'Gorman Guest House
    • Dining Room Mural

Location & Access

The Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo is located in the neighbourhood of San Angel, in the far south of the city centre. To access the museum, you can take an Uber or taxi directly into the district’s centre. The Uber fare costs about $7 USD and takes about 20-30 minutes (depending on traffic) from the centre of Mexico City. If you’d prefer to take public transit, you can hop on the metro towards Miguel Angel de Quevedo Station. From here, you’ll have to change to one of the city’s metro buses that will take you directly into the Altavista suburbs where the museum is located.

Admission & Hours

The museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday, 11 am to 5 pm. The price of admission is $40 pesos for adults, but children under 13 and seniors are free. Admission is free for everyone on Sundays.

About Diego Rivera

Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo are perhaps two of the most well-known artists to come out of Mexico. It is perhaps no coincidence that the two geniuses would find themselves caught in a passionate web of love, art and fiery drama. Diego Rivera was born in 1886 in Guanajuato City, Mexico. When he was born, he came out of the womb along with his twin brother. Sadly, his brother Carlos died two years after they were born. Twins have this unspoken, deep, almost soulful connection with each other and this loss so early in Diego’s life perhaps touched the young boy with trauma and pain that it seems many infamous artists carry with them. Diego started to draw at only three, just after his brother died. Perhaps as a means to express his grief.

Mexican Muralism

His talents only grew from then, and at the age of ten, he went to study art at the San Carlos Academy of Fine Arts in Mexico City. Rivera travelled to Europe after flourishing at the school in Mexico City. It was there he would refine his unique style of painting under the influence of modern artists like Pablo Picasso and looked to the works of Paul Gauguin and Henri Matisse for inspiration. Rivera returned to Mexico City in 1922 as he had been commissioned by the government to head up their new muralism program. The project was created to promote aimed to National pride through murals that told the history of Mexico that even the working class, illiterate masses could interpret.

About Frida Kahlo

While Diego was painting murals all over Mexico City, Frida Kahlo was just a young girl with her own struggles. Frida was born in 1907 in Coyoacan, a small neighbourhood just outside the centre of Mexico City. Similar to Rivera, Frida had her own ordeals early on in life. She was afflicted with polio at only six years old. This meant that her right leg would always be shorter and thinner than the left, a disability that would affect her for the rest of her life.

But Frida never let this illness defeat her spirit despite being kept isolated at home at such a young age. She looked up to her artistic father, who was a famous photographer, and it was him that inspired her to start painting. While at home, her father taught her things she would never learn so early in school, everything from philosophy, literature and, of course, art and photography. When she went back to school, she flourished, as learning was something that truly excited her.

The Bus Accident

But just as her life was taking off once more, she was hit, literally, by another setback. On her way back from school on the day, in the centre of Mexico City, just a few blocks from where Rivera was painting, the bus she was riding on was hit by a streetcar. A large iron handrail pierced her pelvis, broke her spine in three places and crushed her right leg, as well as a litany of other injuries. She stayed in the hospital for months and had to be put into a plaster corset to aid her spine and chest bones in healing. This meant months of bedrest with nothing to do. Nothing to do but paint. Once more, her father encouraged her to turn her pain into art. Despite these life-altering incidents, she responded with the same vigour for the life she refused to lose despite these accidents.

Frida and Diego’s Marriage

After recovering, Frida discovered the thing she wanted to do for the rest of her life, and that was to paint. She was insistent on becoming the best painter she could be, so she sought out the advice of the greatest Mexican painter she knew, Diego Rivera. Rivera was immediately taken aback by this energetic and bold girl and her obvious talent. Despite being married already (to two different women), Frida and Diego started a relationship. They would be married in 1929 at a wedding her parents entitled “the marriage between an elephant and a dove.“

The couple were immediately taken out of Mexico City and moved to the United States. Rivera had to paint several commissions in San Francisco, Detroit, and New York for the famous Rockefellers. But they knew they would return home to Mexico City and wanted a beautiful hacienda to come back to. This is where their friend, architect and artist Juan O’Gorman would come in!

Juan O’Gorman

O’Gorman had been studying functionalism, inspired by the Swiss designer Charles-Édouard Jeanneret, known as Le Corbusier. O’Gorman was enthusiastic about bringing this modernist style to his home in Mexico City. He saw Mexico City as being a hub for modern thinking and exquisite architecture. The old Hacienda Goicoechea, now the famous San Angel Inn, had sold off the large expanse of their land to become residential housing. O’Gorman loved the neighbourhood and purchased the land currently being used as the tennis courts of the nearby hotel. 

Modernist Architecture

O’Gorman had plans to turn these two plots into the first modernist home in Mexico City. But when he displayed his plan it was very controversial. Most homes here are super traditional, fitting into that 18th century colonial style, and this new modernist vision wasn’t an appealing sight to the neighbours. But despite them turning their noses up at this new technique, O’Gorman solidered on. He built one home as a proof of concept. This home still stands today as the Museo Casa Estudio’s guest house.

Functionalism

Functionalism was a style defined by buildings that were designed around their purpose and function and revolted against excess decoration that didn’t serve a objective. In many European functionalist buildings, glass, steel and concrete were essential elements in their construction. In Mexico, in addition to these materials, O’Gorman wanted to incorporate clay and natural plants into the buildings. Instead of building fences out of wood or wrought iron, he planted rows of tall cacti along the roadside. These elements were native to the environment and followed the functionalist ethos. He would use other plants to create borders that looked almost like they had naturally grown up around the house.

Another element significant in functionalism is using practical elements as expressive decoration. A great example of this is the exposed helicoidal staircases that swirl up the sides of the houses. The stairs are a means of access and yet bring an interesting spacial element to the house’s exterior. Water tanks and drainage pipes also provide dynamic structural details around the house. These were all painted a contrasting orange colour and created this framing effect. Instead of looking too industrial, they manage to have their own architectural charm. But they are, in fact, used for rainwater drainage so are not just ornamental.

Diego’s house features a saw-tooth roof design. This design, while it might look decorative, is actually used to allow natural light into the interior while blocking out the heat of direct sun exposure. This was a technique popular inside industrial factories as early as the 16th century, before electiral lighting could be used to illuminate the interiors. It remains today as one of the most ingenious techniques to bring natural light into the interiors.

Designing the Casa Estudio

When Diego and Frida saw what O’Gorman had created, they quickly decided to purchase the entire property and commissioned him to build them twin buildings. Each one would act as both a residence and a studio, unique to each artist. The two buildings were designed as a pair but also as two oppositional designs. Tied together through the consistent elements of functionalism and a bridge that brought the building together at the top.

Diego’s studio is painted off-white and rust-red. Simple, natural colours. On the other hand, Frida’s studio is painted the same ethereal cobalt blue as her Casa Azul. Both studios feature floor-to-ceiling windows, giving the interior spaces an indoor/outdoor feeling. But are protected from the elements, meaning you can paint inside while feeling like you’re out en plein air. The ideal of these twin structures is eerily similar to Diego and his brother Carlos. Connected together despite the fates of their lives going in two very different directions.

Life inside the Casa Estudio

Construction on the houses ended in 1932, and the couple moved in 1934. Diego and Frida lived here from 1934 to 1939. In 1939, they divorced, and Frida moved home to Casa Azul. Diego kept the house and continued living and painting here during their separation. After their divorce, the couple actually got back together, only 9-months later. But even after this reconciliation, Frida preferred to remain in the Casa Azul.

After Frida’s passing in 1954, Diego would continue to live in the studio house full time. He treasured his time in his home until his death on November 24, 1957. Rivera died in his studio, and his body remained there as friends and family came to sit vigil inside to mourn the loss. After this, his body was moved to the Palacio de Bellas Artes for his grand state funeral. 

Studio as Museum

After his death, Diego’s daughters inherited the houses. When they moved in, their went about drastically changing some of the most iconic aspects of the house and making many ugly additions. They removed the cacti and installed a stone fence. They also demolished the bridge that connected the buildings, one of the most important aspects of the house. Years later, the houses were gifted to the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes to be enjoyed by the public. Restoration began in 1995 to bring back the original nature of the homes and preserve their architectural value. All the additions and fencing were removed, and the house seemed to breathe a sigh of relief.

Exterior Foyer

One of the most wonderful things about functionalist-style houses is that they sit on stilts. These stilts are called pilotis, slender columns that support an upper level. When you walk into the property, the entire exterior courtyard feels like an open-air foyer. But with wonderful shaded areas under those upper levels to escape the sun’s heat (essential in Mexico City!) This open air foyer really exposes the incredible landscape architecture that O’Gorman created around the property. It feels like a gorgeous garden floating below.

Another enchanting thing to study while walking around the exterior are the exposed staircases. The spiral staircase which curls its way up the side of Diego’s studio is a wonderful geometric cement column contrasted against the solid red walls. The stairs almost have this musical-like curvature that flows out of the house.

The only exterior staircase in Frida’s house leads from the second-floor studio up to the rooftop. She would use this pathway to cross the thin bridge which connected to Diego’s house. Especially considering her frail condition and problems with her legs, it’s impressive she would brave such a dangerous-looking crossing. Especially when it originally was designed without any handrails!

The Bathrooms

Standing in the coutyard, you’ll see a smaller blue building, set behind Frida’s house. It looks almost like a minature version of her studio. Today, this tiny structure houses the public washrooms that visitors can use during their stay. Although you might think this was an addition when the museum was built, this building is original! It was designed by O’Gorman as a photography studio meant for Frida’s father. Even now, just as then, nothing is wasted. Functionalism reigns eternal.

Diego’s House

You enter Diego’s House first, via the exterior spiral staircase. The large, mostly empty room you enter on the first floor was used initially for Diego to display the artworks he had up for sale. His personal art gallery. Today, the space houses just a few remaining pieces from Diego’s collections of Pre-Columbian artifacts. Today the majority of his collections are housed in the Museo Anahuacalli.

During their marriage, the Museo Anahuacalli was a pipe dream of both Rivera and Kahlo. They both adored collecting these precious pieces of Mexican history and wanted to share them with the public. Rivera had started construction on this project just before his death. But it was O’Gorman who would see it through as the chief architect in charge of achieveing Rivera’s vision. Much of Rivera’s muralism was influenced by these pre-Columbian figurines. In Rivera’s art we can see the intense facial expressions and powerful geometric shapes reflected in these figurines.

2nd Floor Bedroom

Head back up the stairs, either using the smaller interior staircase or the outer curved stairs. The second level is where we find the painter’s studio and bedroom. The little room you’ll see upon entering is Rivera’s tiny bedroom. In functionalist buildings proportions of bedrooms were much smaller than we would expect. This was because they were seen as rooms only used for sleep and therefore didn’t require a great use of space. This preserved more capacity in areas like the studio which was where the artist spent most of his time.

Plus, the painter wasn’t a fan of sleeping unless it was with women. The room is designed to have only a tiny row of windows along the ceiling. This allowed only a small amount of light to flow inside. This meant the artist could get some sleep no matter what time of day.

The room is still laid out like it’s awaiting the return of it’s owner. Diego’s shoes are sitting on the floor as if he is about to get out of bed. Besides this, there are also his bedpans left here since his death. Atop the bedframe is Diego’s suitcase, as he was a world traveller. On the bedside table, you can also see a collection of his keychains and wallets. All the while the room is watched over by a series of papier-mache figures.

Diego’s Studio

Stepping from the hallway, make your way into the great studio. Immediately you’ll be overcome by the light that pours into theroom from the double-height windows on the north wall. From inside you can also study the effect of the saw-tooth roof windows that fill even the ceiling with light. Diego’s studio is bursting with natural energy. The trees on the other side of the windows almost look like they’re growing inside the house. The separation from indoors to outdoor is only a thin veil in here.

The studio still contains the original brushes and pigments which Rivera used to make his murals. They sit beside his easel like he is about to walk back into the room mid-painting. The painting on the easel is a portrait of Dolores Del Rio, a famous Mexican actress. Diego once said of Del Rio;

The most beautiful, the most gorgeous of the west, east, north and south. I’m in love with her as 40 million Mexicans and 120 million Americans who can’t be wrong.

Diego Rivera

Books, artisan ceramics and pottery, and little curios line the green painted shelves at the back of the room. Glass jars are silhouetted against the window panes. Inside powdered pigment still sit, waiting to be turned into paints. Diego’s studio really feels like a highly intimate space. Each one of the objects was bought by Diego as they caught his eye or gifted to him by a friend and lovingly put on display to be treasured. One of the most interesting decor found on the shelves is a copy of Diego Rivera’s death mask. Allowing him to still watche over all those and anyone who enters.

Judases

Filling the corners of the studio are these huge papier-mâché figures. Images of devils, skeletons and expressive people lean against the walls like inanimate puppets. These are called “Judases” and are popular formed of Mexican folk art. They were originally created as a part of the celebrations before Easter. The figures were made to look like the image of Judas, the Traitor. They would then take this resemblance of the great betrayer and set him on fire, to rid the world of his evil spirit. As years passed and the tradition became more popular, the figures began to take the forms of other, also unfavourable people or things. This could be anything from images of devils, demons, politicians, criminals and, in some cases, even disliked shopkeepers. Today the papier-mache dolls are stuffed with fireworks and blown up on the street. Much to the enjoyment of the onlookers.

But Rivera didn’t blow them up. Instead, he kept them as souvenirs of the local artisans. Although the simple craftsmen who made them might not have seen them as high art, Diego saw these as treasures to keep forever. Their highly expressive faces now look out over visitors from all studio corners.

Mezzanine

Walking back up the stairs, you enter the small mezzanine that looks over the studio. A small table between the two chairs is set in the corner, the perfect place to relax and watch the great painter at work. On the table is a portrait of Diego’s beloved, Frida. One can imagine this would have been where Frida herself would have stood to look down on her husband after coming over from her side of the house. Sometimes finding him hard at work…and other times, and sadly so, in the throes of passion with another woman, much to her dismay. In fact, it may have been right here that Frida discovered Diego cheating on her with her younger sister Cristina. There is no doubt that this house was a place of intensity from all angles.

The mezzanine is also home to Rivera’s office, just in the corner, beside the door to the rooftop. His green leather desk features a old phone, a typewriter and more pre-Colombian art covering the walls.

Rooftop

From the small office, you step out onto the rooftop, the neighbourhood of San Angel opening up all around you. During the Springtime, the purple flowers of the Jacaranda trees light up the skyline.

The Bridge of Diego and Frida’s Love

Although Frida and Diego had a passionate relationship, this firey love also resulted in both positive and negative intensity. When things were good, they were great, but when it was bad, it was very, very bad. So for both their sakes, having a separate working space where one could get away from the other was imperative. But the two buildings are connected by a large bridge on the top. O’Gorman named the bridge “the bridge of Diego and Frida’s love.” A symbol that, at the end of the day, they still found a way to come together and connect. Even when things were dire.

A narrow bridge connects the two buildings, the red-painted railings all you have to hold onto as you cross over. While Frida’s staircase has been closed down, too dangerous for the public to continually cross, you can imagine how the two lovers must have met up here to look out over the city and take in the night air. Even today the rest of the buildings in the area remain at a lower level to the rooftop of the Museo Casa Estudio, making you feel like you have this private oasis all to yourself.

Frida’s Studio

To get into Frida’s studio, you need to walk back down to the courtyard and enter on the ground level. Sadly, there is not much to see inside Frida’s house. Much of what once existed here has been moved to the Frida Kahlo museum in the Casa Azul. If you’re interested in learning more about the life and art of Frida Kahlo, you should definitely check it out, just over in Coyoacan. But there is one reason to go into the house: see the bathroom on the second floor. Sounds odd but stay with me!

What the Water Gave Me

This is where Frida lay when she was inspired to paint “What the Water Gave Me” in 1938. Like toys in a child’s bathtub, Frida painted the images that swam in her mind on top of the water. Memories of her life float around her; the only slice of reality is the cast iron bathtub framing the scene and her little toes sticking out of the water. The bathtub which inspired this scene can still be found in the house. If you’re a bather like me, you’ll know sitting in the bath really is where the imagination comes alive. It’s the best place to sit and think. Shower people will disagree with me I’m sure, but for me, a bath is a perfect way to relax and reflect. And it seems like Frida agrees.

The O’Gorman Guest House

The third large building on the property, located slightly below the other two homes, was the couple’s guest house. It was here that family and friends could stay in their own private apartments. But when the house was being built, it was used almost as a test for O’Gorman’s vision. To separate this house from the main studios, you’ll see another line of cacti fencing and steps leading down, surrounded by lush agave plants.

Construction on his house started in 1929, two years before the dual studio. The most impressive part of the building is the study on the first floor. Three of the four walls inside this part of the house are covered in floor-to-ceiling glass panels. And in fact, the entire glass wall opens up like a giant window. It’s pretty dangerous by today’s standards, as you can just walk right off, but what an impact it makes! The windows open up the space, and it feels like you’re floating in the air. The panels of glass are slightly more opaque on the lower four panels to give some privacy to the interior while still filling it with light.

The exterior ground level connects to the study via a wide-sweeping spiral staircase. Once more, without handrails. Looks gorgeous but can’t be very practical. A more private (and safe for visitors) internal staircase takes guests inside the private spaces which contain a small bedroom, bathroom, dining room and kitchen.

Dining Room Mural

One of the other exciting things to study here in the house is the remnants of the dining room mural that was once painted onto the walls. The mural was called “There is quite a difference between philosophy and science,” painted by O’Gorman. It depicts a stunning and vibrant Mexican landscape dotted with images of science and industry. On the left of the frame, there is an image of a fragile skeleton. This is juxtaposed with a beautiful naked Mexican woman who sits opposite. She sets aside a cup bursting with gorgous fresh fruits. The message is that one must have progress to flourish and grow. Otherwise, you will wither and die, like the old skeleton.

The fresco was only discovered in 2012 when a restoration team found traces of the original mural. When the house was sold off after Diego’s death, the mural was removed from the wall, purchased by the Banco Nacional de México for its private collection. Today you can see a photograph of the real painting beside the sketches found on the house’s walls. While I’m sure it’s well preserved in the bank’s museum, it would be more impressive to see it in situ here in the dining room. Maybe one day!

Thank you for joining us on this self-guided tour of the Museo Casa Estudio of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The Museo Casa Estudio is a wonderfully immersive space to explore, and I hope this guide helped you learn more about all the secrets hidden in plain sight. Let me know in the comments what your favourite discovery was!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Everything you Need to Know About the Incredible Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Although the area doesn’t have the draw of big tourist attractions like the Historic Centre, this is the place to come to see everyday life. A walk around this incredible neighbourhood with its gorgeous architecture, peaceful atmosphere and fantastic art and culture makes it even more extraordinary than the tourist centre! There is something so earnest about this place. So real and yet fantastically romantic. So while it might not jump out at you as a place you “need to visit,” I would absolutely say you do!

Outside of the busy market on Saturday, this neighbourhood feels almost untouched by time. Walking down the little side street and just letting curiosity lead you will bring you to the most incredible destinations. But if you’re looking for a guide to the best of what to see and do here in San Ángel, I’ve got you covered!

Table Of Contents

1. Location & Access
2. History
3. Walking Tour
4. Parque de la Bombilla
5. Restaurante El Cardenal
6. Mercado De Flores
7. Templo del Carmen de San Ángel
8. Museo de El Carmen
9. Plaza del Carmen
10. San Angel Art Market
11. Casa del Mayorazgo de Fagoaga
12. Bishop's House 
13. Plaza San Jacinto
14. Saturday Art Market
15. Handicraft Shops
16. Museo Casa del Risco
17. Antiques Fair
18. Bazaar Sábado
19. Villa San Jacinto
20. Parroquia San Jacinto
21. Plaza de Los Cielos
22. Plaza de los Arcángeles
23. Casa de Los Marqueses de Selva Nevada
24. Casa Blanca
25. Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo
26. San Angel Inn

Location & Access

San Ángel is located south of Mexico City, just west of the popular Coyoacán district. Pairing a visit to San Ángel with a trip to Coyoacán is the perfect way to spend an entire day. Away from the crowded city centre and up above all the hustle and bustle. I would advise getting up nice and early for your visit to San Ángel. Nothing starts the day better than brunch at restaurant El Cardenal. Plus an early start means you can get the most out of your day.

Uber

The best way to get to San Ángel is via Uber. Anywhere from the centre of the city, outside busy times of the day, it will only take about 25-30 minutes to arrive here. And generally, a ride will cost around $7 USD. Our first stop on the walking tour is in the beautiful Parque de la Bombilla, so you can put that down as your routed destination.

Metro

If you prefer to take the metro, you can arrive at Miguel Ángel de Quevedo Station. It is only a 10-minute walk from the station to our tour starting point. All metro stations in Mexico City have a different icon corresponding to their station. This was initially conceptualized to ensure that illiterate people could identify the other stations on a map.

The icon for Miguel Ángel de Quevedo is a large fruit tree. Miguel Ángel de Quevedo was a famous Mexican engineer who studied Mexican flora. He was nicked named the “tree apostle,” hence the station’s icon. But also considering this area was once rich with orchards, it also seems fitting. Just a little hint at the colonia’s history right from the get-go!

History

The neighbourhood, which is now San Ángel, was initially one of the wealthiest agricultural plots in ancient Tenochtitlan. Tenochtitlan was the capital of the great Aztec empire. Here there was an abundant source of water from the nearby Magdalena River. The area was called Tenanitla, or “walled in place,” in the Nahuatl language. The name was inspired by the volcanic rock bed that surrounded the area. It is also called Pedregal, formed by the eruption of the Xitle Volcano two thousand years ago. The volcanic bed formed a kind of wall around the land which helped retain the water from the river.

The Monasteries

When the Spanish invaded, they took the land in San Ángel for their own. It was here they established a series of monasteries. The most important of which was the San Jacinto monastery, which gave the area its first Spanish name; San Jacinto Tenanitla.

The next monastery to be built was the El Carmen monastery, built by the Carmelites in 1597. Inside the monastery, the monks opened a small school. But most of the land surrounding the church was used to plant a large expanse of orchards. The orchards flourished due to fertile soil and access to water. At one time, there were over 13,000 trees that sprouted up around the community. The school and orchards were named after San Ángel Mártir, the first members of the Order of Carmel. People would marvel at the orchards and their harvest would bring in a lot of money to the order and the area. The popularity was such that eventually, people would simply refer to the neighbourhood as San Ángel. And soon that become the de facto name for the area.

San Angel as Retreat

In the 18th century, wealthy farming families began to seek larger plots of land outside of the city center. These families began to build some of the most spectacular mansions. Many still stand today as exemplary models of 18th-century architecture in Mexico City.

In the 19th century, the orchards and many of the religious institutions of San Ángel were destroyed in the Mexican-American War. The remainder of the farming lands and orchards were removed to make room for the expanding railway system in 1891. This left the area barren of all its agricultural potential which had once defined the barrio. While the city centre was building industrial factories, San Ángel remained untouched by progress and left as a relatively rural suburb. But it was just peace and quiet that, in the 1940s made it a popular country retreat for wealthy Mexican families. These families continued to preserve the historic homes they found. And kept the area as this precious gem that we can visit today!

Walking Tour

Your experience in San Ángel will be defined by the day of the week you choose to visit. If you come to San Ángel on the weekend, especially on Saturday for the Art Market, the streets are bursting with people. Car surge into this part of town, as locals love to come here on the weekend in droves. It’s not just for the tourists, in fact, I would say the locals outweigh tourists three to one. But outside of the weekend, San Ángel is a tranquil oasis. And you’ll find you often have parts of the city all to yourself. But the peace means you’ll have to skip the popular pop-up art market. Either way, there are so many things to do here, no matter when you arrive. The only day I’d say to avoid is Mondays as all the museums are closed.

Parque de la Bombilla

The best place to start your tour of the neighbourhood is in San Ángel’s grandiose Parque de la Bombilla. Mexico City is, in my opinion, the best city in the world for public parks. Each of them brings a new surprise. Filled with beauty, drama and artistry. And Parque de La Bombilla is one that I feel doesn’t get its fair due. In the centre of the park is a giant monument to Álvaro Obregón. Álvaro Obregón was the 46th president of Mexico, inaugurated in 1920. Sadly, Obregón was assassinated in 1928 inside La Bombilla restaurant, which once stood on this very spot. After his death, the restaurant was demolished to make room for a park built in his honour. The park’s unveiling took place in 1935, on the seventh anniversary of Obregón’s assassination.

The Obregón monument dominates the park. Towering over you like a lighthouse, drawing you in. A huge reflecting pool sits just in front, allowing the sun to cast its reflection down into the water, creating a mirror-like surface. In addition to the central monument, the park also boasts seven beautiful fountains, artistic garden beds and even various chess and checkers tables awaiting their daily players.

Socialist style architecture

The Obregón Monument is a socialist-style tower. Socialist-style architecture became somewhat of a trend in Mexico City in the early 20th century. Mexico was encouraged by the Russian Revolution of 1917. They admired how the shift was leaning towards the boots on the ground workers and peasants while rejecting the bourgeoisie and upper classes. As such, they were inspired by the architecture of the Soviet Union under the leadership of Joseph Stalin. The style is characterized by rigid, geometric shapes, sturdy columns and giant statues. Often built to commemorate great leaders of the country.

Obregón Monument

The Obregón Monument greets you with two statues, guarding either side of the giant steel doorway. These are the indigenous protectors, representing “Work” and “Fertility.” The monument’s centre features a large stairwell that climbs to the top of the tower. Inside was once the resting place of Obregón’s embalmed arm. The arm was since moved, but today, a marble copy stands in its place.

On either side of the monument, are two groups of sculptures. One represents the Allegory of the Sacrifice, the other the Allegory of Triumph; two defining characteristics of Obregón’s presidency. On the back of the memorial is the sculpture of the great Eagle of Mexico City. Its wings spread in front of a series of geometric Saguaro cacti.

Restaurante El Cardenal

Hopefully, the bright colours of the park have woken you up a bit and now it’s time for breakfast! Take a stroll up along Avenue de la Paz. This street leads you right into the historic heart of San Ángel. Here you’ll shortly arrive at our breakfast spot, Restaurante El Cardenal. Restaurante El Cardenal is an institution in Mexico City with multiple different locations. The San Ángel location is their newest expansion, opening in 2011. But it quickly became the go-to destination on Saturday and Sunday mornings.

El Cardenal History

El Cardenal was founded in 1969, the original location was just across the street from the Plaza de la Constitución. The founders were a large family who wanted to bring their love of traditional Mexican cuisine to an upscale setting. They saw that many households didn’t have time to make classic home-cooked dishes. But here in El Cardenal you can come and feel like you’re dining at your mother’s table.

One of the most luxurious parts of dining inside El Cardenal in San Ángel is the gorgeous architecture. The restaurant is set inside an old colonial mansion. The building was actually previous another restaurant but when it closed the house lay dormant for years. When El Cardenal bought the property they took great pains to restore the details of the home to their former glory. The stained glass windows and gleaming wood floors make just sitting inside such a joy to experience. The back of the restaurant features a glass window box that looks into the kitchen, so you can watch the chefs hard at work!

The El Cardenal Experience

Their breakfasts are among the most popular seatings, with wait times up to 40 minutes depending on the day. So the earlier you arrive, the better. This is because huge families come here all together on the weekend for a cheerful family brunch. Despite the wait, this amazing familial atmosphere is what makes this restaurant so special. Walking inside, we were treated like absolute royalty. White-shirt waiters greeted us and catered to our every need. It felt like we were dining at a Michelin star restaurant but at a fraction of the cost! 

The Food

To start the perfect breakfast, begin with hot chocolate, not coffee! Their unique hot chocolate is made with famous Doña Oliva chocolate and is like drinking a cup of history. Hot chocolate originated in Mexico and was an essential part of the Aztec culture from 1400 AD.

My favourite part about the experience of eating here was the pastry tray. When you come inside a waiter brings you over an enormous tray of sweet pastries. And you can choose, with your own eyes, which pastry you’d want to start off the meal right with. I went with the concha as I feel like it’s the perfect pairing with a hot chocolate.

Another traditional breakfast dish you’ll only find in Mexico is the Egg omelette with escamoles. Escamoles are colloquially called “Mexican caviar,” and are edible ant larvae. Escamoles have been consumed in Mexico since the age of the Aztecs and are high in nutritional value. It’s definitely one of the most unique and classic dishes on the menu. But if that’s not your thing they have many other traditional options for those who aren’t that adventurous.

While you might take a look at this elegant restaurant would be pretty pricey, El Cardenal is such a good value. They really price themselves as a family restaurant. Although there were some tourists here it was clear that most people gather here every week. And with food as good and cheap as this, I know why they do!

Mercado De Flores

To work off some of the big breakfast, walk down the street and turn north up Avenue Revolución towards the famous San Ángel Flower Market. This market dates back to the time of the Carmelite friars. When they lived in the area, their church was surrounded by extensive gardens. Here they grew fruit trees and flowers in large quantities.

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Walking up to the market, you can spot it from down the street, not only by the iconic white awnings but also by the brightly painted murals along the exterior. Public murals like this were famous in markets like this around Mexico City. Vendors are packed tightly along the thin strip of the sidewalk facing the Avenida Revolucion. In their white plastic buckets are a wide array of vibrant flowers for locals to bring home to their sweethearts with a smile.

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Templo del Carmen de San Ángel

After peaking around at the flowers in the market, head back south along Avenue Revolución. Crossing Avenue de la Paz, lead yourself towards the large domes that dominate the skyline guiding you into the old Carmelite Church of San Ángel. 

Courtyard

While most people go directly to the Museum of El Carmen, checking out the church itself is more than worth your time. Even just walking through the old stone walls into the quaint courtyard gives you so many things to look at and ponder. The church courtyard is home to one of the most amazing jacaranda trees. Hidden behind the stone walls it feels like a treasure that we found was all to ourselves! It hangs heavy over the fountain in the centre of the stone yard. Its branches also frame the gorgeous tiled domes off in the background.

History of the St. Carmen Church of San Ángel

The church was originally built in 1615 by the Carmelite friar Andrés de San Miguel. It took over 10 years to complete, and when it opened it housed the order of the Barefoot Carmelites. It was originally opened as a monastery but they also built a college nearby. Here they welcomed theology students and new priests of the order. The church flourished for years and its orchards formed the bedrock of the colonial we find today. Bringing both money and interest to this part of town.

After the Mexican Reformation War of 1858, the new secular governmental powers closed down many Catholic churches and schools. The area around San Ángel was occupied by US troops who sadly destroyed many parts of the old buildings. As well as looting many of the church’s precious assets. They even went so far as to destroy the beloved orchards.

The old school building went on to serve as a prison, barracks and even the location of the local town council. Eventually, in 1921, the church school was transformed into a museum. It was here they sought to preserve the history of the building, the treasure found hidden within and the stories from the neighbourhood’s past. But the actual church itself has stood here, in almost the exact same state, for hundreds of years. And walking inside feels like stepping back in time.

Architecture

The design of the church was made in Herrerian style. Herrerian style rose in popularity in Spain during the 16th century and came to Mexico City with the Spanish colonizers. The style features a more restrained use of ornamentation compared to other baroque styles of the time. The shape of the building is designed to spread horizontally and symmetrically. And yet unlike many other Herrerian buildings which have flat or plain roofs, the St. Carmen de San Ángel church features three incredible tiled domes. Brilliant blue and yellow-painted tiles from Puebla still glisten in the sunlight although much of the roofs have fallen into disrepair over the ages.

Walking into the church, the restrained architecture that surrounds you highlights the incredible golden altar. Light frames the altar from either side creating the most ethereal glow. While the rest of the building might be simpler in design, the altarpiece is pure baroque. Drama, glamour and gilding are everything that the baroque era brought and we can see it here in leaps and spurts!

One of my favourite parts about the churches in Mexico is the tile work. Every little side chapel or tiny niche is given the royal treatment by plastering them with gorgeous tiles. These minature tiles look like shining gems when the sunlight hits them just right. While some are just decorative others are painted to tell stories about the saints in whose chapels they sit. These tiles truly make Mexican churches feel so unique and gives you a sense of place when visiting.

Museo de El Carmen

Just outside the entrance to the church, you can find the Museo de El Carmen. The old monastery school and cloisters were transformed into a museum in the 1920s. Inside, the museum houses various objects that detail the history of the Carmelite order. When you enter through the lower cloisters you’re greeted by a small series of panels detailing the complete history of the convent and school. Throughout the rest of the museum, these histories are brought to life through a series of paintings, documents, sculptures and even the furniture which was used inside the monastery.

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As well as detailing life in the monastery, these historical paintings also depict what life was like in San Ángel in the 18th and 19th centuries. It features an amazing collection of Colonial religious art. The baroque artist Cristóbal de Villalpando has many paintings here on display. He is most famous for his painting which now hangs in the Metropolitan Cathedral. But inside this more intimate museum, you can view his pieces close up and see them in a more personal light.

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The Crypt

One of the most interesting, or for some, macabre parts of the museum is the old crypts. When the monastery was a working church, many people would pay to be buried in such a holy place. These were both members of the Carmelite Order as well as wealthy benefactors.

But over the years, and after the fall of the religious institutions, many of these bodies were forgotten. Only in the 20th century were they uncovered during the monastery’s restoration. The bodies left here were miraculously preserved because of the rich soil by which they were surrounded. They were essentially mummified. With no one to claim the bodies, the museum decided to leave them where they rested, and now visitors can give view their wrinkled flesh up close and personal. Preserved for the ages inside their velvet-lined wooden and glass caskets.

Hours & Admission: 52 pesos | Free on Sundays, closed on Mondays

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Plaza del Carmen

Head back to the main intersection at Madero and the Avenue de la Revolution to cross over to Plaza del Carmen. The brilliant-coloured buildings that surround the square blend in amongst the vibrant flowers in the garden beds in the middle of the plaza. While the Plaza de Jacinto might be the larger and most popular square in the city, Plaza del Carmen is by far my favourite. Its quaint and cramped quarters are so joyful, with locals sitting out on the benches, chatting with friends, in the early morning. Watching the artists set up their canvases as the sun rises.

San Angel Art Market

On Saturdays, this is where the start of the San Ángel art market can be found. One of the most wonderful things about the San Ángel art market is not just for tourists. Unlike some more touristy markets around the city, this market is meant for the locals. And many people come here, from far and wide, in search of the perfect art piece for their home. The atmosphere is intoxicating, everyone admiring the newest art pieces from their favourite local painters. Rainbow-coloured umbrellas dot the skyline, protecting fresh paint from the harsh rays of the sun.

Architecture around Plaza El Carmen

Even if you don’t come on a weekend, this small Plaza is a wonder to behold. It is surrounded on all sides by incredible historical buildings, important to the neighbourhood’s history. Even in just this one square, you can get a slice of the wonderfully preserved architecture that makes this neighbourhood such a gem to visit. Examples of baroque, neoclassical and neocolonial houses can be found right here. And many have been perfectly preserved since this part of town managed to escape the urbanization of the city’s centre.

House of Chucho el Roto

To the southeast, you’ll see a brilliant yellow building with bright red trim on the corner. This is the old House of Chucho el Roto or House of The Two Courtyards. This building is a wonderful example of Mexican neoclassical styles popular during the Protofio Diaz era. The house was named because it was designed with two courtyards, a lavish expense at this time. The main courtyard was built to entertain and house splendid gardens. The secondary courtyard where the carriages and stables were placed. This allowed the home to separate the working part of the house from the relaxing retreat these country homes aimed to create.

Chucho el Roto

The house was built in the 19th century for the philanthropist Francisco de Urquiaga. A popular legend about this home states that it was the hiding place for the famous bandit Jesús Arriaga. Arriaga was also nicknamed “Chucho el Roto,” hence the other name for the house. Arriaga was somewhat of a Robin Hood-type character, robbing from the wealthy and giving to the poor. This house was reported to be connected to the underground tunnels built by the Dominicans. The tunnels could be accessed through the basement and led to the nearby Plaza San Jacinto. Making it a perfect getaway for a legendary bandit.

Sadly, Arriaga was eventually captured and died in prison. But his legend lived on long past his death. And fictional stories became even more popular after his passing. Today it houses the Library of the Revolutions of Mexico. Very apt, considering it was the hideout of this legendary anti-establishment character who would have been a staunch supporter of the revolutions.

Mercado del Carmen

On the north side of the Plaza sits the popular Mercado del Carmen. This hip communal-style eatery and art gallery are housed in an old mansion dating back to the 18th century. It was also used as an English school for the upper classes of San Agnel during the 1960s and 70s. The gorgeous blue of the house blends in almost perfectly with the sky on a clear day, making it feel at one with heaven above.

Casa del Mayorazgo de Fagoaga

On the northwest corner of the plaza, along Calle de la Amargura is the Casa del Mayorazgo de Fagoaga. The brilliant burnt orange exteriors and 18-century facade welcome you onto one of the most luxurious streets in the city. It was designed in the neoclassical style with baroque-style balconies.

The home was originally built for Francisco de Fagoaga, the head of a powerful silver and gold merchant. His family was one of the first to start the trend of moving their mansions out of the central city and into the countryside. His house set the tone for other wealthy haciendas built in the era and unsurprisingly lots of future houses follow the same template. It was truly a trendsetter. The orange contrasts so well with the dense green foliage and pink flowers that bloom across the facade.

Bishop’s House 

Continue along Calle de la Amargura towards the end of the street, blocked by the corner of the old Bishop of Tenagra’s mansion. Joaquín Fernández de Madrid y Canal served as the Bishop’s adobe here in San Ángel. A Bishop was a highly regarded figure in the community. As such, the friars wanted to build a house that would impress! His house was built in 1631 (!) and is one of the best-preserved pieces of history in San Ángel. Long after the revolution, the house still stood as a well sought-after real estate piece. It was home to various famous Mexican like poet José Zorrilla, historian José María Agreda and politician and general Antonio López de Santa Anna. Today, the house serves as an art gallery hosting rotating exhibitions featuring incredible Mexican artists.

Plaza San Jacinto

Turn south past the Plaza Tenanitla (dedicated to the original name of the colonial) and make your way into the grand Plaza San Jacinto. The Plaza was named the Church of San Jacinto, located just on the west side of the square. But we’ll learn more about the church later when you go inside. The little town square popped up here as it was surrounded on all sides by the church, convent and orphanage. It quickly became the heart of the community in the 18th century and continues on as such today!

 St. Patrick Battalion

On the far west side of the Plaza, on the wall opposite, you’ll see a large plaque dedicated to the St. Patrick Battalion. “Why is there a dedication to Irish soldiers in Mexico City?” you might be wondering. In 1847, during the Mexican War for independence, Irish, German and even American immigrants came over to Mexico. They wanted to help fight for Mexico’s freedom, against the United States. The battalion was one of the fiercest and responsible for a huge majority of the deaths on the American side. So when they were caught, their punishments were brutal. They were executed right here in San Jacinto square, in front of the famous church. But their legend lives in on this plaque stands in their honour. The memory of their fighting vigour an inspiration to others who would continue the fight and win the freedom of the nation.

Diego Rivera

Make your way to the centre of the Plaza and look across the elegant central fountain. There, you will see a bronze easel with the burst of Diego Rivera emblazoned into the cartouche. As Rivera was a resident of the San Angel for many years, local artists inspired by Rivera wanted to commemorate him for generations to come. There is something wonderful about Rivera’s face looking over at the artists in the square selling their works in the square. Continuing his passion for supporting Mexican artists, even from the great beyond.

Saturday Art Market

By far the most popular thing to see in the square is to peruse the incredible Saturday Art Market. The market was established here in the 1960s. Interestingly enough, the origins of the market were due to an American, Jim Tillet, who had moved to Mexico City. He brought the concept of a weekly artisan fair to Mexico City, and the idea immediately took off. The art is both meant for the locals to enjoy as well as the tourists, highlighting the beauty of the Mexican landscape and vibrant culture. There were so many amazing artists of all different styles and mediums. My favourites were the ones that were designed to look like Lotería cards.

In addition to paintings, this Plaza is also home to craftspeople. Here you can find artisan pottery, textiles and even clothing. While some of it is a bit touristy things there are also really unique designers and artists. Prices tend to be a little more expensive here in San Angel but the quality is there to match.

There are often musicians strolling around through the market, entertaining the crowds and creating a more inviting and charming atmosphere. Street food vendors pop up selling sweet treats and salty snacks to satisfy your cravings. Art hunting is hungry work!

Handicraft Shops

If you opt to visit San Angel outside of the weekend, you can still find lots of different handicraft shops open around the square throughout the week. Shops like the Bazar San Ángel, María Bonita and Local México all sell gorgeous handmade decor and art pieces for your home. The spirit of the art market lives on long past the weekend so don’t feel like you’ll have missed it all if you can only visit during the week.

Museo Casa del Risco

On the north side of the Plaza Jacinto, hidden behind the opulent trees, is an old terra-cotta-coloured building with ‘Museo Casa del Risco‘ emblazoned in brass along the fence. Inside you’ll find an old residence dating back to the 17th-century that has since been transformed into a museum. The museum recreates the look of a traditional San Angel house as it would have looked in the 18th century. Casa del Risco has a fascinating history as it served as a residence, a military barracks and a hospital.

Fuente del Risco

The house’s main feature that people come to see is the great porcelain fountain. The fountain, or “Fuente del Risco,” is located inside the main central courtyard. It was made in the late 18th century in the opulent Baroque or “ultra baroque” style popular in Mexico City during that period.

While it looks like it is merely decorative, the fountain’s design was actually an ingenious way to preserve broken porcelain. Back then, painted porcelains were extremely expensive and yet, just like today, accidents happen and you might end up breaking a plate that costs more than a used car does today. Turning them into an art sculpture like this was a way to preserve and display even the broken pieces.

Embedded within the fountain you can spot Chinese blue and white porcelain, plates from the Ming Dynasty, green porcelain from Japan, Spanish Talavera ceramics and, of course, the homegrown ceramics of Puebla. Entire bowls, plates, cups and sauces are also scattered together with broken pieces of pottery to create this magical-looking fountain. The niches are designed to look like pearlescent shells and conches and the piece is dotted with mermaid sculptures. Even here in the hill of San Angel do we find people dreaming of the ocean.

There is so much else to see inside the museum, from Baroque art, religious sculptures, antique stained glass and recreations of 18th-century living space. But if all you want to see is the fountains, it’s easy to do so as admission to the museum is free.

Admission: Free | Open Tuesday-Sunday 10 am – 5 pm

Antiques Fair

On the weekends, just outside the museum, you’ll find high-end vintage and antique sellers bringing out their wares. This was almost as incredible as the museum itself, it felt like just outside you could literally buy items you’d just seen inside the museum. Paintings from the 19th century, religious objects and gorgeous pieces of antique jewellery. The prices are pretty high but even I was almost swayed into buying a locket from 1898! There are some real treasures so if you have the money to spend you’ll discover some amazing pieces in this marketplace.

Bazaar Sábado

If you don’t like sifting through the pop-up stands outside in the plaza, you can head into the Bazaar Sábado. The Bazaar Sábado is located inside a 17th-century red-painted mansion and dates back to the 1960s. Here you can find the giant home filled with over 100 permanent artisan shops selling everything from textiles to jewellery, ceramics and metalwork. Many of these craftspeople are award winners, so their prices are going to reflect that status, but the work is unparalleled. Personally, I prefer the stuff found on the street, but if you’re looking for something more upmarket, this is the place for you.

Inside the central open-air courtyard is a wonderful eatery serving up traditional breakfast and lunch street food. It can get pretty busy right at 12 pm but if you prefer to eat a bit early or late you’ll find more tables open. The food here is wonderful and a great place to try some amazing street food like Tlacoyos, quesadillas and gorditas.

Villa San Jacinto

If the Bazaar Sabado courtyard is too busy you can hop across the Plaza and make your way to the stunning courtyards of the Villa San Jacinto. This 19th-century house has been preserved and transformed to be enjoyed by present-day visitors. The Cafe de las Artes is a gorgeous little eatery inspired by the architecture of the Porfiriato era. Walking up the stairs, you are greeted by this incredible grisaille style stained glass window, bohemian lamps and the Catalan vaults.

You can also study the amazing remodelled garden filled with beautiful sculptures. The cafe sells lots of different drinks and has homemade desserts and sandwiches if you’re feeling a bit peckish. Sitting outside you can get pretty hot but is a beautiful place to admire the rotating selection of art work on display.

Parroquia San Jacinto

Heading back onto Calle Benito Juárez, walk just a few meters where you’ll find an unassuming set of stairs which leads you into the green oasis outside of the Parroquia San Jacinto. The Parroquia San Jacinto or San Jacinto Parish was founded by the Dominicans in 1564. The Dominican order had discovered a small waterfall nearby and utilized the water to power their spinning and weaving equipment. This allowed them to produce lots of different kinds of textiles. They sold them off and used the funds to fund the building of the church and the plush gardens.

Walking inside the church, the thing that immediately catches your eyes is the ornate churrigueresco-style altar. The rest of the interior of the church is pretty austere but there is something so charming about the simplicity. Be sure to poke your head around the cloisters inside the church. This is the perfect place to escape the sun for a minute and walk through the shaded walkways and central fountain.

The Garden

The contrast between the rather subdued building and the incredibly bright colours of the gardens is a wonderful pairing. In the centre of the garden is a fountain with a huge cross in the centre. This was the first cross ever carved in Mexico. Looking closely at it you can see elements from both the Christian and Pagan faiths.

Surrounding the church are cedars, eucalyptus and pine trees. I always feel like this little hidden away yard is most reminiscent of the old orchards of San Angel.

Plaza de Los Cielos

Walking back outside, take a stroll down the Calle Benito Juárez towards the Plaza de los Cielos. This little corner is a gem of the colonial-era architecture that remains in this neighbourhood. Beautifully decorated in ancient jacaranda and vibrant bougainvilleas pour over the stone walls. The little Plaza de Los Cielos is surrounded on the two sides by the old walls of the former monastery.

Plaza de los Arcángeles

Continue north along Árbol street, turning left on Segunda Cda. de Frontera, where you’ll discover one of the most peaceful yet stunning streets anywhere in Mexico City. The walls here are covered in foliages, and when they bloom in bright purple and blue, it feels like walking through a tunnel of flowers.

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At the end of the street, you’ll find the secret Plaza de Los Arcángeles. A nook tucked into the neighbourhood’s corner features a series of benches under a series of stone arches. In the centre of the small gardenette is a shrine to the Virgin of Guadalupe tucked inside the hole of a tree. The name of the Plaza comes from three large sandstone benches named after the Archangels; Gabriel, Rafael and Michael. It’s a fantastically peaceful place and well worth the three-minute detour!

Casa de Los Marqueses de Selva Nevada

Walk back up Arbol and west along with Calle Hidalgo. On the northwest corner is one of the more historic homes of San Angel. Casa de los marqueses de Selva Nevada was owned by Ana Ortiz de Móxica in the end of the 18th century. It would later go on to the owned by María Josefa Rodríguez de Pinillos, the ambassador of Austria-Hungary in Mexico. Maria is responsible for the majority of the renovations we can see today. One of the most impressive parts of the building is the gorgeous wooden gates set between the beautiful white painted trim and ochre-coloured exterior. The door was designed with traditional elements of Mudejar decoration.

Casa Blanca

Continue along the Calle Hidalgo until you reach the large white house at #43. This is called the Casa Blanca, or “white house,” a 17th-century hacienda owned by the Oploca counts. Look closely at the coat of arms above the door to see the design of this family’s old shield. During its life in San Angel, the house was once home to the second-largest orchard in the neighbourhood. All hidden away behind the beautiful parapets of the white house. A small plaque on the front of the house honoured it as a place of historical significance. During the Second Franco-Mexican War, this house served as a bunker for French and American soldiers.

Legen of the Casa Blanca

But the most significant thing about this house is the legend that goes along with it. If you walk slightly further away from the front door, you’ll see a large wrought iron balcony towards the back of the house. The story goes that the woman who once lived here had the love of her life go off to war. She watched him leave from this balcony and would return to it every day, waiting for his return. But he never would come home, and she died an old woman, standing on the balcony, heartbroken. Eternally waiting for her true love to come home. Her ghost is said to still haunt the upper balcony so keep your eyes peeled for her wailing cries.

Licenciado | Leandro Valle

Continue down Hidalgo until you reach Licenciado street and walk north. This is another fantastic example of just how amazing even the ordinary homes in this neighbourhood are. Walls are dripping in ivy and each new facade is painted in a different vibrant colour. Rich wooden doorways and fantastical wrought iron gates protect entry from the street into the secretive homes inside.

Although there might not be any specific historical sights here, these are the streets that make visiting a neighbourhood like San Angel so worth it! The road curves to the right and turns into Leandro Valle. Eventually, popping you outright outside Avenue Altavista. Bringin you to the front steps of the famous Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo.

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo

Standing from across the street is the best way to introduce yourself to this famous home. You can see the red and white building on the right, which served as Diego Rivera‘s studio contrasted by the bright periwinkle painted studio for Frida Kahlo. The two homes are connected via the large walkway on the top floor. The entire design of the homes is symbolic of their love. Two very different artists and lovers that are yet forever connected. This was Rivera’s dream home that he had commissioned by architect and friend Juan O’Gorman. O’Gorman is well known for many different famous buildings in Mexico City including the incredible designs inside the UNAM campus.

The museum leads you through both houses to see their studios, living spaces and a gorgeous rooftop view across the neighbourhood of San Angel. To get a complete guided tour of the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo you can read our full guide here.

San Angel Inn

To end your day in San Angel, head back across the street and to the historic San Angel Inn. In my honest opinion, the food isn’t the best here. It was probably one of the most disappointing meals I’ve had in Mexico City. And for what you get, it’s overpriced. But that being said, nothing can compete with this restaurant’s history, decor, and architecture.

My recommendation is to arrive before or after their lunch or dinner rush. And opt for only a drink and perhaps a dessert or snack. This way you can still enjoy the incredible environments but don’t need to worry about spending too much on subpar food. Plus, our margaritas were some of the best we’ve ever had so there are some definite gems to be found!

History

The best way to describe this place is an institution. The building itself dates back to 1616! It was originally the Our Lady of Santa Ana Monastery, built by Hernando Aragonés. Surrounding the monastery was a series of superb orchards and rich agave gardens. They produced a large amount of pulque here over the years, an iconic drink found only in Mexico. Despite changing hands many times over the years, much of the original gardens have been preserved to enjoy today.

History of San Angel Inn

In 1777, the old monastery was purchased by Ramon Goicoechea, who converted it into his family mansion. The hotel was also owned by musician Carlos Prieto who hosted classical music concerts inside. Even today, this tradition continues with live music played throughout the restaurant. Many years later, in 1908, the property was transformed into a large hotel and restaurant. The new owners sold off the excess land, which turned into the neighbourhood of Altavista. The huge mansion was divided up to make all different spaces, from guest rooms to the various restaurants and event spaces we can visit today.

Walking through the hallways, courtyards, and different rooms feels like being inside a living museum. The walls are covered in artworks collected by all the different owners who called this place home over the years. Famously, this restaurant was so popular that it was even notable for hosting various Mexican revolutionaries from Emiliano Zapata to Pancho Villa and Zapata. They were even seen singing a unity pact right here in the restaurant!

This brings us to the end of this incredible tour of San Angel. I hope you’ve enjoyed the sights we’ve seen along the way. Let me know in the comments which stop was your favourite or other treasures you’ve discovered along the way!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Guide to the Artistic and Creative Corners of San Angel, Mexico City Walking Tour first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

There has never been anything I’d been so quick to review. During my most recent stay in Mexico City, I was travelling solo. Whenever I’m alone, I love to join a group tour. While I do personally enjoy my solitude, I also enjoy meeting new people and getting to experience new adventures with others. I knew a food tour was in order, as I think there is no better way to get to know someone than having a meal with them! But it took me a while to find a tour that really piqued my interest. But then I found Eat Like a Local.

About Eat Like a Local

Eat Like a Local is a female-owned Mexico City Food Tour company that strives to be one of the best in sustainable tourism. It pays its female-only employees a proper wage and supports female-owned businesses in the market places. Plus, part of the tour price helps young girls go to school to learn to speak English. Providing them with a rich education that sets them up to succeed and grow. Any extra money the tour company earns goes towards sending some of the girls to go on a trip of their own. Anywhere around the world. Allowing them to see the same world of travel, they help tourists experience in their own city.

Giving back to the Community

The company even uses part of the tour price to support the infrastructure of the marketplaces. Helping to improve them. So many tours I saw listed seem to use the marketplaces as a tourist attraction. These tours don’t actively view the marketplace as a real place of work and community. While eating inside the marketplace is great to support the individual businesses, supporting the infrastructure where they work is a sign of a true venture into sustainable tourism. So with all that in mind, and a promise of some truly phenomenal street food, I booked my ticket and joined the tour.

The Best Foor Tour in Mexico City!

1. About Eat Like a Local
2. The Tour Details
3. The Overall Experience
4. La Condesa
5. Taking the Metro
6. Jamaica Market
7. La Merced Market
8. Juarez Gelato Shop

The Tour Details

Cost

Eat Like a Local offers three different food “safaris” for you to choose from. Each one costs $115 USD. This covers all the food you’ll eat on the tour as well as your transportation. I opted for the Mexican Food 101 tour as it seemed to cover the widest variety of food. They also have a Flower Market and Mezcal tasting tour but since I don’t drink very much I thought that one might not be for me. There is also a street food at night tour that I really can’t wait to check out next time I’m in town!

When you book, you’ll only pay half of the total tour price online via their website. The other half you MUST pay in CASH upon meeting the guide. They use this cash to pay for the food along the way. So it’s essential to bring the right amount of money when you arrive at the meeting point. Don’t think you can just stop at the ATM after the tour is over.

How Big is the Tour

Like any good tour group, the size of the group is small. This means you have a much more intimate experience. But with the guide and the rest of the group. I cannot stress enough how the five of us felt like old friends by the end of the day. I even knew all their kids’ names! Small tour groups really are a sign of a great experience to come.

How Long is the Tour?

The entire tour lasted about four hours. In that time we covered a lot of ground (thanks to hopping on and off the metro.) They say that you’ll walk about 4.5 miles throughout the tour. I loved all the walking as it really helped make room for more food! Dress comfortably, and wear good walking shoes. Be sure this means closed-toe shoes since the marketplaces can get wet.

A Note about Safety

When booking the tour, one of the things that both intrigued, excited and made me a bit nervous was the fact we would travel via the metro. I had long wanted to experience taking the metro in Mexico City. But after hearing so many stories about how dangerous it was, I was always hesitant. But my tour guide Panda made the experience fear-free and super explanatory for future trips. The metro was so efficient and I never felt unsafe. And aside from drawing attention to ourselves as a group of loud English speakers on a tour, I don’t think anyone would have given us a second look.

I was careful to bring only my phone with me and kept it in a bag with an internal zip when required. Panda was great about letting us know when we should be more careful. Just like any big city, some areas are more prevalent with pickpockets. The largest market in Barcelona is a huge hot spot for pickpockets, so don’t think it’s just CDMX. I never felt the least bit afraid anywhere we went on the tour. So don’t let their overly cautious advice put you off! Use common sense, leave your large camera at home and don’t wear or bring anything flashy. Our tour guide also took lots of pictures and even emailed them to us afterwards. So if you wanted to just leave everything at home, and immense yourself, you’ll still get lots of souvenir pictures to take home.

Accessibility

This tour might be challenging if you’re travelling in a wheelchair or have issues with accessibility. Both are due to the distance covered and the lack of accessible entrances in various parts of the marketplace. But, you can absolutely reach out to the tour company directly to book a private tour. They do lots of private tours and they will be able to curate a specific tour just for you.

Bathrooms

I am definitely someone who has a small bladder, so bathroom breaks are always imperative for longer tours. There were plenty of stops along the way for bathrooms. Don’t hesitate to ask if you need to use one. Most of the bathrooms inside the marketplace cost 5 pesos to enter, so bring a bit of change to use them. Our guide also had some coins for those who didn’t have any on them.

Dietary Restrictions

The tour states they can accommodate all different dietary restrictions, including vegetarian and gluten-free. Be sure to let them know in advance. This way, they can ensure something will be available for you at every stop. We had a vegetarian with us on our tour, and it was so fun to see all the different alternatives to our dishes. He definitely had to skip one of two stops but there were plenty of options at most places. And honestly, there is so much food on tour, missing out on one or two places might actually be a good idea!

The Overall Experience

Their website lists all the different types of food you’ll taste along the way, so I’m not giving anything away by detailing my experience here. I wanted to share the wonderful stories from my experience as a means to encourage those travelling to Mexico City to book a tour for themselves. But also as a way for those who read my blog to feel immersed in another world to travel along with me. Even if they can’t go themselves. Even if I did give you step-by-step instructions on where to go, you’d never be able to explore these places for yourself. There are too many hidden secrets and tiny sellers that only locals can guide you to.

La Condesa

We met up in La Condesa to start the tour off right with a coffee! This gave us all a chance to meet each other and get to know our guide. Our guide, Panda, was one of the most hilarious and fun people I’d ever met. From the minute she starting she felt like an old school friend and had us all smiling from ear to ear. After grabbing our coffees, we needed a little sweet treat. So we set out for pastries! We stopped at a Condesa institution which sells concha (sweet bread.) The perfect starter to get our stomachs prepped.

Tacos de Canasta

Next, we explored two different street food stalls in La Condesa. One was selling the classic breakfast staple Tacos de Canasta, aka sweaty tacos. These tacos are made by filling a taco with stew and bathing them in oil or butter. They are then layered up inside baskets and sold all over the city. Sometimes on the back of bicycles, but in this case at a street food stall.

The man working here had been selling them for over 35 years!! He is so popular that he made enough money selling these tacos to be able to send his kids to university! Here you had the options of a variety of fillings, from pork to potato and chicharron. Once you pick your filling, you could smother them in hot sauce. I was so surprised by how delicious they were. I had never tried tacos de canasta before because I thought they’d be soggy. But that wasn’t the case at all! I could have honestly eaten a dozen. But knew I had to save room in my stomach, as this was only our second stop!

Mixiotes

The next stop was tacos mixiotes. Mixiotes are made from stewing meat inside an agave leaf bag. The meat was so flavourful, seasoned with a mixture of all different chillies. This stand had almost a dozen other toppings you could add to your taco. I wanted to really savour the flavour of the meat, so I just went with a few slices of nopales (cactus) pads. And, of course, a squeeze of lime and hot sauce.

It was about now that I realized I would never be able to finish everything we sampled at this rate. As much as I wanted to because everything we ate was delicious. Thankfully, Panda, our guide, stepped in and told us no one would be offended if we didn’t finish. And we could split what we could share, or she could ask the vendor for a smaller portion. I felt so relieved as I’m always so worried that my small stomach and inability to always finish what’s on my plate is apt to offend the cook!

Taking the Metro

After this stop, we hopped onto the metro at Baldera station. I had been pretty nervous about riding the metro. But from the minute we descended down into the station, I realized how perfectly normal and unintimidating it was. All your tickets are paid for upon entering, but Panda took us through how to buy your tickets and use the system in case you want to ride the metro on your own after the tour.

The metro platforms were incredibly clean and actually super pretty to look at. The floors and walls were made of beautiful stone that looked like the station were carved out of the ground. While we were on tour, the metro was fairly empty, only getting busy near mid-afternoon. Most of the time, we could all get seats with no problem. When the cars were super full, we simply waited for the next train. They come very frequently so we had no trouble getting enough space and feeling safe. Interesting to note that there are also female-only train cars. These are marked on the floor of the station platform with pink signs marked with “Solo Dames y Menores de 12 Anos.”

Jamaica Market

The next stop on tour was inside Jamaica Market! Although you might read the word “Jamaica” and think of the country, Jamaica actually means “hibiscus flower” in Spanish. The Jamaica Market is home to the largest flower market in the city, with over 1,150 stalls selling over 5,000 different varieties of flowers! Almost all of them grown around Mexico.

The market is divided into two different areas; the first is almost devoid of flowers entirely and primarily sells produce, meat and other grocery staples. When you cross over to the second section of the market, you’re immediately overwhelmed with the smell of flowers. Before you can even see the flowers, you’ll know you’ve arrived.

Tacos Carnitas & Tepache

Our first stop was at a long communal table right at the market entrance. Pig heads hung in the butcher shops down the aislse, and you knew right away this was the place to get pork! The order was simple, tacos de carnitas, topped with raw onions and cilantro. While I thought I’d had carnitas before, after tasting this, it felt like I had never eaten them before in my life. This was the best-tasting taco I’ve ever eaten, and I still dream about it! While we were eating, Panda explained to us the myths about why you are almost always given two tortillas with every serving of tacos. But I’ll leave that tidbit for you to discover on tour…

To pair with our tacos, we got to sample tepache. Tepache is a fermented pineapple drink made from the peel and the rind of pineapples and refined cane sugar. It had that tang you get from other fermented drinks like kombucha. It was super sweet but so delicious and definitely cleansed the palette from the fatty pork tacos. The perfect combination!

Jicaleta

Next up, we walked around the market to the brightly coloured bins of what looked like powdered sugar. Beside these pins were huge round discs on popsicle sticks that looked like white lollipops with the words “Rico Jicaleta.” I have seen these signs all over the city and always wondered what they were! It turns out the giant thing on a popsicle stick is a Jicama, a root vegetable.

To convince kids to eat their vegetables, someone came up with the genius idea to cover the jicama with chamoy (pickled plum with chile sauce) and then dip the veggie in powdered sugar. Since the jicama is pretty neutral in its flavouring it allows itself to be the vehicle for these amazing flavours of powered sugar. Everything as simple as strawberry or blueberry to more exciting flavours like mango chilli and tamarind. You can even use the other colours to create a cool rainbow-like pattern on the jicama. I can see why these are such a popular treat with both kids and adults.

Piñata Market

Next up on tour, we walked deeper into the marketplace amongst hundreds and hundreds of piñatas. The Jamaica market is known for its huge piñatas selection. Design range from traditional stars to cartoon characters. And I even saw a covid one! What a perfect thing to bash away at, a way of taking out all the pent up frustration over the loss of the last two years.

Chorizo Verde

Sitting down outside a small shop beside piles of bright fruits and vegetables, we tried what I thought was the most incredible taco innovation of the whole tour; green chorizo! The proud owner displayed all his different types of chorizo sausages outside the shop. But none were as eye wateringly delicious to look at as the green chorizo. The pork-based sausage is mixed with a blend of fresh green veggies like spinach and lettuce. Then zesty green herbs are added to ramp the flavour up. Anything from cilantro, thyme, marjoram, whatever is in season.

After this they add green chillies (because heat is a staple of the chorizo sausage) and the most important and unique ingredient – NUTS! Yes, that’s right, they add anything from peanuts to pumpkins seeds or almonds to the meat. We ate it completely plain to start to ensure we could appreciate the flavour of all the ingredients. And OMG, I cannot explain how incredible this was. Truly one of the most unique and surprising parts of the tour. I wish I could remember where this was so I could go back to eat more!

Heading down to the other side of the market, we stopped at a few more stalls for some tiny samples as we went. Crispy tortillas covered in locally made crema y queso (cream cheese) and a bite of chicharrón (deep-fried pork skin).

Fresh Fruit Stalls

On the other side of the market, where the smell of flowers filled the air, we stopped for a selection of fresh fruit. The fruit was just what the doctor ordered to change things up and refresh my palette. I always admire the beautiful spreads at these fruit stands when I pass by. So many different fruits I’ve never tried, let alone seen before. Lucky for me, when we stopped, the friendliest man came out from behind the piles of fruit with these little banana leaf trays. Inside were slices of all kinds of fruits. Panda took us through what each bite was, and we dove in.

My taste buds were exploding. I couldn’t believe how delicious some of these fruits were, things I’d never tried before, which set my mouth alight. My favourite by far was the Soursop, which was tangy, sweet, and, as the name indicates, sour. I need to find this in Toronto! And my other favourite was the black zapote, which tastes like chocolatey permission pudding! The Chirimoya blew my mind as it tasted like a strawberry blended with a kiwi. I was truly entranced by all the flavours and vowed to make more of an effort to buy fresh fruit next time I’m in town.

Wholesale Flowers

Walking around the flower market was the best kind of chaos. We didn’t have a ton of time to admire the flowers; this is a working market, after all. People were milling about, grabbing carfuls of flowers for their stands in the city and small bouquets for their homes. Voices cried over one and other as people haggled for the best price.

During the Day of the Dead ceremonies, this market is packed to the rooftops with trucks full of orange Mexican marigolds. These are the most popular flower synonymous with the festival. They are used to decorate the ofrendas of past loved ones as the brightly coloured flowers are thought to guide the spirits of those who have passed back home.

As we moved through the crowds of people, we arrived at the back, where the larger floral displays are located. These are for celebrations like communions and quinceaneras in addition to funerals and weddings. But apparently, one of the most popular reasons people buy huge floral displays is to apologize for cheating on their wives…or at least that’s what Panda told us! The bigger the arrangement, the more sorry you are!

Esquites

The next stop on tour was for a cup of esquites fritos. Esquites are fire-roasted corn kernels, stewed in lard, and mixed with aromatic herbs and arbol chillies. I’ve had esquites many times before, as they are one of my favourite street snacks, but none as delicious as the ones we got here! There are definitely some secret ingredients at work here.

Before leaving the market, we stopped at a tortilla maker cranking out hundreds of perfect corn circles every hour. There is genuinely nothing more fresh than eating a hot tortilla right off the press. With nothing more than a sprinkle of salt, you can really appreciate how simple and complex the flavours are. And why this tiny disc has become such a staple of Mexican food throughout the centuries.

La Merced Market

After a quick bathroom break, we hopped back on the metro. We transferred from the teal line (#4) to the pink line (#1) and made our way directly into the Mercados de la Merced. Mercados de la Merced, or La Merced Market, has its own dedicated metro stop. And unlike other metro stations where you need to exit onto the street to get to your next destination, this stop exits right into the heart of the market. This is actually the only way you should enter the market. The exterior streets around here are a little dangerous but by entering directly inside, you avoid the exterior entirely.

History of the Market

La Merced Market is named after the monastery of Nuestra Señora de la Merced de Redención de Cautivos. The monastery was established here in 1594, just after the Spanish Conquest. The neighbourhood that sprang up around the monastery also goes by the name La Merced. After the conquest, this part of the city, being just on the outskirts (before the expansion of what is now CDMX), was a hotbed for traders. They would arrive here from all different parts of the country and beyond. They could easily dump their goods here for sale and transfer further into the central part of the city.

By 1860, almost the entire neighbourhood was one big market. So the city decided to move the marketplace into a permanent, covered building. By now, the old La Merced Monastery has been closed down for years. But the empty building proved to be the perfect place to establish the new permanent market.

20th Century Market

In the 20th century, the market continued to expand becoming one of the largest wholesale markets in the city. Here you can find everything from fruit, vegetables, meat, poultry, toys, clothes, flowers, candy and more.

Sadly, there is a dark history to the building as well. In 1988 a fireworks stall exploded inside the marketplace, killing more than 60 people! Then again, in 1998, there was another fire due to faulty wiring that destroyed much of the old main hall and 572 stalls. Luckily no one was killed in that fire, but the damage was extensive. Despite the accident occurring almost 20 years ago, repairs are still ongoing.

Just in front of the entrance to the market from the metro station, you’ll see a cheerful cartoon map of the marketplace. Each different section of the market is dedicated to a different specialty, so you know exactly where to go for what. I was immediately drawn to the candy section and was delighted to hear we would be stopping in there near the end of the tour.

Insects

Our first stop inside the market threw us right into the deep end of Mexican cuisine, at the Insectos stand. Yes, that’s right, bugs! I actually really like bugs as food; I’ve had them a few times around the world and find the flavour pretty interesting. If you don’t want to try them, just politely say no. Don’t make a big show of being grossed out or anything like that. Insects have been eaten and used in cooking here for centuries. It’s disrespectful to act disgusted by a kind of food they consider pretty normal.

I do recommend trying them at least once. And when you stop here at the stall, they also give you a glass of freshly pressed pineapple juice to chase down the bugs. In case it’s just not for you. My favourite was the crickets, but I was actually surprised how much I liked the little worms! The scorpion was the least tasty, a little too earthy for my liking, but I’m sure it would be great in other dishes.

Micheladas

We walked through the crowds of stalls towards the outer edge of the market, along Rosario street. Despite being a working street, with cars and lorries driving through, it also feels like an extension of the marketplace. Stalls pour out onto the streets with their wares leaning out so far they almost touch either side of the road. It’s so tight that often when a big truck comes thru, some stores need to move things they’re selling back inside to allow the cars to pass. It’s a very cool bit of choreography to watch.

We took a seat inside a casual bar where we gathered around a large table, welcomed by the smiles of the locals. Then we were given a series of brightly colours bowls, jars and glass bottles, like a modern-day apothecary in the centre of Mexico City. We were greeted by the amazingly kind Arely, one of the girls from the 80IQ program. 80IQ is a program created by the Eat Like a Local founder that funds the education of these young women and where they also receive mentoring.

With her adorable son in tow, Arley came to our table to practice speaking English and teach us to make a Mexican Michelada. Micheladas are such a fun beverage to make and we loved learning all the steps and ingredients that go into it! First, cover the rim in chamoy and dip in caramelized sesame seeds. Next, add more chamoy, Worcestershire, and hot sauce then filled the glass with a cold beer! Since I don’t drink beer, so I was given a glass of fizzy pineapple juice, and let me tell you mixture was just as delicious!!! We took this chance to enjoy our cold drinks, a refreshing break from the heat of the day. We grabbed for a bit, chatting with Arley and even celebrating an anniversary in our little group!

Quesadillas

From here, Arley handed us over to Wendy, another girl from the program. Wendy spoke incredibly well at only 14 years old and was such a great guide! She took us to her grandmother’s street food stall, where a series of women bustling around a hot comal. They went about serving us bite-size pieces of a variety of classic Mexican street food samples.

Huitlacoche

The one I was most excited about trying were the quesadillas. Although this might not seem very exotic, the filling inside the quesadilla was ‘huitlacoche‘ or, as it is known in English, corn smut! Huitlacoche is considered a delicacy in Mexico, even though it might not seem very appetizing. The word comes from the Nahuatl language and means “sleeping excrescence,” because the corn is transformed by a fungus that impedes them from developing. Thus, they remain “sleeping.” If the fungus doesn’t sound appealing to you, I’d ask, “well, have you ever eaten mushroom?” because the flavour is essentially the same. I couldn’t believe how complex the flavour was, and I was so happy I had finally been able to sample it! 

Pambazo

We also got quesadillas with squash blossoms filled with cheese from Oaxaca. Then there was a slice of tlacoyo filled with black beans and covered in requeson (like ricotta cheese) and more nopales. The last item on the place was Pambazo. The pambazo sandwich is apparently the most authentic Mexico City street food. One that originated here. It is made from a white bun that has been dipped in adobo sauce and then filled with chorizo, cheese, cream and lettuce.

Candy

After all this, I thought there was no way I’d ever be able to get up. But somehow, we shuffled out of the tiny chairs outside the street food stall and bid a sad farewell to Wendy’s family. They waved goodbye to us with big smiles as we headed back into the crowded marketplace. But I perked up as we learned we were on our way to the candy district. There are many reasons I love Mexico City, but one of them has got to be their love of bulk candies. You can find little carts wheeling around the neighbourhood every day. Filled with candy fills at the ready for your cravings. But here in the marketplace must be where they all come to load up these carts every morning.

Candies exploded out of bins and baskets in rainbow colours everywhere we looked. We sampled a few unique varieties like dried mango with chilis, tamarind candies, spicy candied almonds and, of course, lots and lots of flavoured powdered sugar. My favourites are these little fruit-shaped gummies that look like they are made of glass. Almost too pretty to eat! I could honestly have been here for hours, but I was too full to try anything more, lucky for my blood sugar.

Juarez Gelato Shop

To arrive at our last stop on tour, we hopped once more on the metro and made our way over to the Juarez neighbourhood. This part of town is just starting to become a new hot spot for hip eateries. We stopped at one of the chicest gelato shops, where we were greeted by flavours out of this world. Tamarind & mezcal, Oaxacan chocolate, cempasúchil (marigold), tonka bean, olive oil, lavender, and even epazote elato leaf are just some of the falvours that are on rotation here. We got to sample any three flavours we wanted. Although I had felt like I couldn’t eat another bite earlier, there seems to always be a second stomach for dessert.

This was our last stop, so we all just sat around chatting while eating our ice cream. None of us wanted to leave. We had all really become friends by the end of the day. Panda gave us all her recommendations based on the questions we asked along the way. After much hesitation, we all eventually parted ways! Leaving with full bellies, smiles on our faces, and lots of stories to share with our friends and family. The perfect end to the perfect tour.

To Tip or Not to Tip?

Tipping is always a considerate thing to do at the end of a tour just as at the end of a meal. It’s a way to say “thank you” to the guide for their time, effort and expertise. While it’s not required, it is appreciated. Don’t feel the need to financially burden yourself but honestly, even a little bit goes a long way to show your appreciation.

I truly can’t say enough good things about this tour and I really hope if you get the chance to visit Mexico City you put booking this Mexico City Food Tour with Eat Like a Local at the top of your list!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Best Street Food Tour in Mexico City! first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

About UNAM

UNAM stands for Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México and is the largest university in Latin America and has one of the biggest campuses in the world! The mesmerizing central library is the highlight of the campus, designed by the illustrious architect and painter Juan O’Gorman. The library’s mural is designed like a codex, filled with symbolic imagery to decipher. I could have sat there for hours just looking at it. But it is not the only building embedded in hidden symbols and rich history. There is so much to see here that lends itself to a better understanding of this amazing city.

But happenstance, we arrived on graduation day. The ceremony had just finished, but many graduates were still milling around in their gowns on. Taking pictures, hugging their family and friends, smiles brimming across their faces. Lots of them were camped out on the lawn having a snack in the sunshine taking in this important moment. It was such a joyful time to visit and definitely worth the drive! 

About this Guided Tour

While walking around the campus, there isn’t much informational signage for tourists, it’s a working campus, after all. So I wanted to create this guide to help visitors and guests contextually explore this fantastic architectural wonder and mini-city. The entire campus is a tremendous example of Mexican Modernist architecture, which defined the landscape 70 years ago. So much so that the entire place was honoured as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007. But being able to have a better understanding of who made the buildings and why will really improve your experience of touring the UNAM campus!

Table Of Contents

1. About this Guided Tour
2. Access
3. History
4. Architecture
5. Estadio Olímpico Universitario
6. Campus Balcony
7. Rectory Tower 
8. The People to the University, the University to the People
9. New Symbol of the University
10. Dates of the History of Mexico
11. Central Library
12. North Wall | The Pre-Hispanic Past
13. Tlaloc
14. South Wall | The Colonial Past
15. Tlaloc Fountain
16. East Wall Mural | The Contemporary World
17. Viva la Revolution
18. West Mural | UNAM and Mexico Today
19. The Faculty of Architecture Building
20. The Conquest of Energy Mural
21. The Return of Quetzalcóatl
22. Quetzalcóatl
23. Chemistry Building Mural
24. Cosmic Ray Pavilion 
25. Faculty of Medicine Mural 
26. Overcoming of Man through Culture
27. Visiting the South Campus

Access

The UNAM Ciudad Universitaria (University City) is located in the southern part of Coyoacán. Visiting the campus is a great thing to do either in tandem with a visit to Coyoacán or San Angel.

Where & When to Arrive

Although the campus is located in the neighbourhood of Coyoacán, it is pretty tough to walk to from central Coyoacán. The best way to get there is via Uber. The entire campus sprawls over 1,000 hectares (2,500 acres), but the most important architectural structures can be found in the northern section. There are several parking lots around the library that can be used for drop-off and pick-up locations.

The best time to visit the campus is on weekends, particularly Sundays. This way, you’re not getting in the way of students and teachers on their way to classes. On the weekend, the wide-open green spaces of the campus are popular with families and students. They come here to relax, enjoying the patios, gardens and footpaths. During the springtime, the Jacaranda trees here are absolutely spectacular! So if you’re visiting the city during their blooms this is one of the biggest hidden gem places to see them.

Access around the Campus

UNAM has the word “autonomous” in the title because the campus itself truly is almost like its own little city. They have their own private security and police, fire department. And even their own public transport. The Pumabús run around the campus and to the main metro stations. The buses are free and generally run pretty frequently during the week. If you’re trying to reach the further afield parts of the campus, this can be great to hop on. You can check out the various routes here.

History

The history of the university dates all the way back to 1520. When the Spanish invaded ancient Tenochtitlan, one of the first things the king of Spain established was a university. But from 1533 to 1867, this university was controlled by the Roman Catholic church. So despite its modern educational resources, the curriculum was greatly influenced by religious orders. Because of this, many students felt they were being impeded from studying modern philosophical and scientific developments that were happening around the rest of the world.

In 1810, the last controlling Spanish forces were defeated by the Mexican insurgent army. The country was free and a new wave of revolution spread across the country. In 1867, the old Spanish University was closed by the government of Benito Juarez. After its closure, several independent schools opened up to teach everything from law, medicine, engineering, and architecture.

The Creation of UNAM

In 1910, President Porfirio Díaz saw the potential of these various disparate organizations. He organized to join them together to form the new National University, the new UNAM. The university’s aim was to develop a new Mexican identity and create a new model to drive the country into the future. 

Tlatelolco Protest

Sadly, the very revolution that was meant to free the students from the control of the Spanish educators would only lead to a new form of control. In the 1920s, all Mexican universities were placed under government control. This went on to include UNAM in 1929. Over the years, this led to much internal turmoil leading up to the historic Tlatelolco protests in 1968. Only days before the 1968 Olympics, a student demonstration that opposed governmental interference in education ended in the massacre of hundreds of peaceful students. Protests still occur today as the students and teachers are constantly attempting to ensure education is free and separate from governmental control.

Architecture

The design of the current incarnation of the UNAM central campus was the idea of two former students. In 1928, Mauricio De Maria y Campos and Marcial Gutiérrez Camarena started to develop the plans for this new campus city. But the sheer size and scale meant that they needed much more assistance. Over 60 different architects were employed to achieve their vision. A beautiful example of Mexican artistic collaboration. The campus was to include the giant Estadio Olímpico Universitario, 40 other school buildings, and a massive library. It also had a cultural centre, several museums and a sculpture garden inside the ecological reserve. 

Construction began in 1950 outside of the Pedregal de San Ángel. The area upon which UNMA university was built is atop an ancient solidified lava bed. The volcanic bedrock was removed when construction began. But never one to simply wash away the natural history of the country, the architects repurposed these uncovered rocks. They used them to make the pathways and embed into the walls of the surrounding structures. The area was also a historic place for an ancient Aztec civilization. University Rector Luis Garrido said, “it was once the seat of an ancient civilization, and now it will be the seat of the culture of the future.” 

Mexican Modernism and Functionalism

During the university’s construction, the architects were highly influenced by the functionalism style. The concept of functionalism was that everything in society should serve a function. In architecture, it’s the principle that buildings should be designed based solely on their purpose and function. This style was popularized by ‘Le Corbusier,’ a home designed by German architect Mies van der Rohe. Mies van der Rohe wanted to radically simplify constructions to highlight their architectural beauty and focus on their function.

The other style highlighted here on campus is Mexican Modernism. Like functionalism, Modernism did away with ornaments and decorations in favour of innovation and new materials. Newly introduced to Mexico, concrete was used throughout the campus, along with lots of glass and steel.

In Modernism, many buildings have a long and low horizontal base juxtaposed at 90 degrees with a vertical tower. This emphasis on horizontal and vertical lines and asymmetry creates a visual effect of expanding the perspective.

Estadio Olímpico Universitario

The best place to start your UNAM campus tour is actually on the other side of the main campus. Outside the grandiose Estadio Olímpico Universitario or the University Olympic Stadium. The stadium was built in 1952, and at the time, it was the largest stadium in Mexico. It was built in anticipation of the 1968 Olympics, the first Olympics in Latin America. During the Olympics, the stadium would host track and field competitions, equestrian events, football matches, and, most importantly, the opening and closing ceremonies. So the architects really wanted to leave a lasting impression on the world.

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During the Olympics, it was here that the iconic image of Tommie Smith and John Carlos on the podium was taken. They each raised their black-gloved fists in the air, in solidarity with the Black Panthers. This symbol was an act of protest against the rampant racism in the US. Fittingly this protest was held on UNAM soil, a university so well familiar with protest. Today, the University uses the stadium for their football games with their home team, the Pumas!

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Diego Rivera Mural

Outside of the main entrance, on the east side of Avenue de Los Insurgentes Sur, stands the powerful relief made by Diego Rivera. Diego Rivera was perhaps the most significant artist involved in the government-sponsored Mexican Muralism project. He is considered one of the “big three” artists, the others being David Alfaro Siqueiros and José Clemente Orozco. In 1920 the government hired these three artists (and others) to help educate the masses about Mexican history. Their aim was to use art to reunify the country. Back then, much of the population was illiterate and therefore these pictorial images were the perfect solution to reach everyone. As the movement continued, the art shifted from representations of the past to dreams for the future.

For this project, Rivera used only natural stones to create the mural. He sourced them from around the area to make the relief feel like an ancient structure that had been uncovered. Unfortunately, Diego Rivera died before the installation could be finished. He had initially planned to cover the entire building in these stone mosaics. But after his death, the work was never completed.

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The University, the Mexican family, peace and youth sports

The mural’s name is quite the mouthful, being called the “The University, the Mexican family, peace and youth sports.” The centre of the relief features a mother and father with their arms outstretched. Their hands reach toward their child, who stands in the centre. The child clasps a large dove in his hands, the symbol of peace. Behind the family, wrapping their wings around them, are a mammoth golden eagle and fierce condor. These birds are the symbols of UNAM University.

On either side of the family, there are two athletes seen in white sports uniforms. They are in the process of lighting the ceremonial Olympic flame. Below all the characters in the scene, we can see the image of the pre-Hispanic god Quetzalcoatl. Quetzalcoatl, the feathered serpent, acts as the ground upon which these athletes stand. The scales of his skin are decorated with images of corn, an essential resource which forms the fabric of Mexico’s agriculture.

Campus Balcony

To head into the main campus area, you can cross over the pedestrian bridge, travelling over the highway. The pedestrian crossing is located slightly north of the entrance to the stadium. After crossing, you’ll see the grassy Edén Garden. This small green space is a frequent hangout for students who want to snag some shade under the trees. Walk slightly south, parallel to Escolar street. Eventually, you will pop out next to the ‘Rectoría’ bus stop.

This large concrete quad sits above the rest of the campus. The raised dais gives you a beautiful view across the campus. The quad was planned out with wide steps leading down to the rest of the campus. This design was inspired by ancient Aztec cities, which resembled large outdoor rooms. The open courtyard and terraces of ancient cities like Teotihuacán, Monte Alban and Chichen Itza were all used as inspiration for this layout.

Concrete was new material in Mexico City during the university’s construction. After the revolutionary wars in Mexico, much rebuilding needed to be done. And concrete allowed many buildings to go up quickly and relatively cheaply. The main focus of this reconstruction was directed toward healthcare, education and public works.

Rectory Tower 

Walk towards the southeast corner of the balcony and down the stairs. In front of your stands the imposing Rectory Tower to your right. The tower is an exemplary model of modernist architecture. The juxtaposition of a wide horizontal lower level with a large vertical tower creates the effect of elongating the buildings. Walk down the stairs to your right to make your way around the building.

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As you descend, take a moment to study the beautiful natural colours of the building. The dividing walls which separate the rest of the courtyard from the Rectory Tower are made of black volcanic stones. The walls of the main horizontal building are covered in tiles made from brilliant yellow onyx. Yellow onyx is a semi-transparent stone that allows light to reflect off of it while also illuminating the building with gorgeous, diffused natural light.

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As you make your way to the bottom of the stairs, you can see the charming black and white checkered pattern made of different blocks that forms the lower level. Walk up close, and you can see the small voids in the blocks that also provide natural lighting to the building.

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The People to the University, the University to the People

On the south side of the building, you’ll find the vibrant, three-dimensional “sculpture-painting” by Mexican Muralist David Alfaro Siquieros. The Rectory Tower actually features three murals by Siqueiros made starting in 1952. Unlike other two-dimensional murals, Siquieros was employing a new technique he was developing of three-dimensional painting. He used the new material of cement to layer upon the painting to bring the mural to life. The cement was then covered with thousands and thousands of brightly coloured glass mosaics.

The mural on the south side is titled, “The people to the University, the University to the people.” It features sculptures of five different university students in warped and elongated positions. In their hands, they are holding various objects representing the knowledge they acquired at school. In the background are images of the modern city into which these students are headed after graduation. A city where they can apply their knowledge and be the change they want to see in the world.

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New Symbol of the University

Turning around the corner, on the east side, you can see a large balcony-like projection coming out the side of the building. This mural is called the “New Symbol of the University” and features the images of two large slightly abstracted images of birds. As we saw in the Olympic Stadium, these are the birds of the University and represent the golden eagle and great condor. The golden eagle has long been a symbol for Mexico City. The two birds are situated on either side of a brilliant sun, symbolizing truth and knowledge. See how the wings of the birds wrap around the edges of the walls continuing into the building.

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Dates of the History of Mexico

Coming back around to the front of the Rectory Tower, you can study the last of the three Siquieros murals. This one is called the “Dates of the History of Mexico.” Above the entrance to the building is a large painting of a series of hands. One hand bursts forth from the frame, becoming sculptural, holding a pencil almost like a sword. The reverberations though that seem to echo out from the hand almost look like the sound waves made by a firing bullet. In this place, it’s knowledge that is the strongest weapon!

On the left side of the mural are a series of dates. Each one refers to a significant moment in the history of Mexico City. 1520 was when Mexico was first invaded by the Spanish. 1810 was the Mexican War of Independence when Mexico was freed by insurgent forces from the Spanish. 1857 was the Reform War and the formation of the Federal Mexican Constitution. 1910 was the second Mexican Revolution against the government of President Porfirio Díaz. Finally, we see the date 19?? signifying that Siquieros thought that there would still yet become a monumental moment in the 20th century for the country. Many students etched the date of the protests onto the mural but this has been removed year after year.

Central Library

The Central Library was definitely the main reason why I made my way out here. And it is without a doubt the most symbolically important building on campus. The Central UNAM Library contains one of the largest book collections in Mexico, with over 600,000 books tucked away inside. To ensure all these books were safe from the destructive rays of the sun, the library needed to be primary windowless. But a windowless building can look pretty boring. So the architects knew the building needed something eye-catching to decorate the facade. They hired painter and architect Juan O’Gorman to create a fantastical, almost storybook-like mural that wrapped around the entirety of the library.

Juan O’Gorman Vision

Juan O’Gorman was born just a few steps away from the university campus in Coyoacan. This was his home turf and as such he really wanted to create something special. O’Gorman employed the use of the black volcanic stones, hewn from the ground, to become the base of the facade. Unlike the other murals on campus, O’Gorman wanted the colours in his mural to be completely natural. No paints or pigments, all the colours in the mural were made from finding organic materials. Stones from all over the country were sourced to create the coloured tile on the facade.

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O’Gorman’s idea was to use the facade of the library to paint a picture of Mexico’s pre-Hispanic culture and identity. As well as the future he saw for his country. The entire mural is assembled like a codex, with hidden symbols to be read around every corner. The North Wall represents the pre-Hispanic past, and the South Wall depicts Colonial Past. Then we move to the East Wall, which represents the Contemporaneous World. And finally, the West Wall depicts the University and Modern Mexico.

“The general theme of the mural is related to the evolution of culture. In the upper part, I represented the cosmological symbols, on the north wall, figures allusive to the pre-Hispanic culture, on the south wall, I developed the argument about colonial culture, on the sides, I referred to the modern age, and on the east side, I represented the atom as a cosmological symbol of our century. I had originally projected the Newtonian concept of universal attraction on the west side. I had to vary it by having to represent there the university shield with the corresponding motto, which, in my opinion, should have gone in the rectory building.”

– O’Gorman

North Wall | The Pre-Hispanic Past

To read the building chronologically, head to the north side. This is where we can look up to view the wall dedicated to the pre-Hispanic past. Flowing throughout the entire mural are bright blue watery canal and earthy “chinampas.” These chinampas, or artificial islands, were a brilliant invention by the Aztec civilization. These floating gardens provided the nation with rich agriculture and even a modern drainage system. Water was life to the early Mexican people, and as such, the water in this mural acts almost as veins. Connecting each section to one and other.

The Duality of Life and Death

The overall theme in this mural relates to the story of life and death. In the Aztec civilization, life was represented by the sun and death by the moon. These two dualities needed to exist in tandem to create that important harmony which balances life on earth. One needs the other to exist. Without death, there is no life and vice versa. So unlike today, where death is something to fear, something we shy away even from talking about. The Aztecs revered death and honoured it for its place in the cycle of life

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Quetzalcóatl

Let’s start the reading of the mural on the left side. Here we see a small scene dedicated to life-giving Aztec gods. In the upper corner, we can see the sun’s image, set within a geometric set of Aztec designs. Driectly below the sun we can see the tail of a large snake. As we follow its slithering body we find its head facing the centre of the frame. This snake represents the Aztec god Quetzalcóatl. Quetzalcóatl, or ‘the Plumed Serpent‘, was one of the most important gods in ancient Mesoamerica. He was thought to be a mix of a bird and rattlesnake. If you look closely, you’ll see multicoloured feathers combined with his emerald scales.

Quetzalcóatl was the god of the wind and the rain. And it was Quetzalcóatl who was said to have created the earth and the people who live upon it. The brightly coloured feathered headdress worn by the priests of ancient Mesoamerica were meant to mimic the image of Quetzalcóatl. Many of the people in the mural can be seen wearing these elaborate headdresses. From below the centre of the snake, an amputated hand emerges from the stone. From their fingertips, droplets of water pour down on the large tree below. Perhaps the human form of Quetzalcóatl watering the resources on earth.

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Huitzilopochtli 

To the right of Quetzalcóatl’s hand, we find the image of the god Huitzilopochtli. Huitzilopochtli is the Aztec God of the Sun and War. He is wearing a feathered hummingbird headdress, holding a large shield with the star. In his other hand, he holds a curved turquoise staff and is surrounded by a series of fearsome snakes. In the Aztec culture, warriors were reincarnated as hummingbirds after their death in honour of this fearsome god.

The Myth of the Sun and Moon

Huitzilopochtli was conceived when his mother, Coatlicue, saw a ball of hummingbird feathers falling from the sky. Similar to the immaculate conception of the Virgin Mary, upon collecting the feathers, Coatlicue became with child. But just before he was born, Coatlicue’s sons and daughter devised a plan to kill both the unborn child and their mother. They were blind with jealousy at the extraordinary way he was conceived.

But just before they could enact their plan, Huitzilopochtli burst forth from his mother’s womb. Born armed with the turquoise snake staff and full armour, he fought off his siblings to protect his mother. He threw his sister off the mountain, and she became the moon. Huitzilopochtli then chased his brothers, who ran away into the sky, becoming the stars. Huitzilopochtli, who was born in anger and fury, became the sun. And it is said that the reason we have day and night becomes Huitzilopochtli continues to chase his brothers the stars around the world every day.

Tlaloc

Below the disembodied hand, beside the tree being watered, we can see the Tlaloc, the Aztec god of rain. Tlaloc also goes by the name ‘He Who Makes Things Sprout‘ so it is apt to see him in the process of raising a tree from the earth. He is very recognizable by the large mask he wears with these two huge eyes and a large set of white fangs. As the god of the rain, Tlaloc was the ‘giver of life’ responsible for earthly fertility. While Tlaloc was seen as, on the one hand, the giver of life, he was also greatly feared. Again, going back to the harmony that must exist in all things. Tlaloc was also responsible for hurricanes, lightning and floods. He could grow and destroy crops all in one breath.

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Tlazōlteōtl

In the center of the left section, we can see the image of a woman covered in flowing strips of fabric. This is Tlazōlteōtl, my persona favourite of all the Aztec gods. Her name “Tlazōlteōtl” is the Nahuatl word for garbage. And often she is called the “Eater of Filth.” And while that seems rather derogatory, she is one of the most precious of all the gods. Tlazōlteōtl has many names, sometimes called the Eater of Excrement. This “excrement” that she eats is representative of the sins of the world. Giving those who pray for her absolution and perhaps a new lease on life. She is often identifiable by the rim of black around her lips from the eating of dirt.

Tlazōlteōtl is almost always portrayed in a splayed leg position, as if in the process of giving birth. Another one of her names is Goddess of the Moon as the moon is a symbol of fertility. Tlazōlteōtl is often portrayed alongside the jaguar who is associated with water, plants and fertility.

Another one of her names is Goddess of Cotton. In the Aztec culture, weaving and fertility go hand in hand. Women were both the ones to give birth and the weavers of the household. Textiles brought lots of money into the household. And a highly skilled weaver was considered a highly prestigious position. That is also why Tlazōlteōtl is often seen adorned in fabric.

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Teccistecatl

To the left of Tlazōlteōtl, we can see the top of a great pyramid decorated in images of shells. Atop the pyramid’s terrace sits the god Teccistecatl on his throne. Teccistecatl is the male version of Tlazōlteōtl. He is the male god of the moon and fertility. His name means, “Place of the Conch,” and he can be seen blowing into a large conch. Teccistacatl is often seen wearing a white seashell on his back, a symbol of the moon.

The upper portion of the mural has all related to the world of the gods, but the pyramid guides us into the earthly plane. The various Aztec warriors can be seen wearing animal pelts on their backs. They were given his costumes featuring eagles, jaguars and snakes as a means to imbue themselves with the powers of those animals. A priest wearing a feathered headdress stands surrounded by the warriors in the midst of a ritual. O’GormanO’Gorman believed that the Mexican empire was built on the backs of their fierce warriors and the rituals of war.

Tonatiuh

The central axis of the mural is dominated by the god Tonatiuh. Tonatiuh is the god of the daytime sky and controls the sun’s movements. Tonatiuh takes the form of the sun. He looks out almost menacingly at the people below with his red tongue emerging from his mouth. Tonatiuh is one of the oldest Aztec gods. They believed that his movements caused the sun to rise and set in the evening. But this life cycle was only guaranteed by the human sacrifices on earth.

Tōnalpōhualli

Below Tonatiuh we can see a pink mouth with teeth bared, surrounded by an ellipse. The ellipse is divided down the centre, with one half being black and the other white. In the centre of the ellipsis, you’ll see twenty different symbols representing the different 20 13-day periods of the Aztec solar calendar. This calendar was called the Tōnalpōhualli, which in Nahuatl means “count of days,” invented around the 1st millennium BCE. Each symbol is a powerful element in Aztec life. They were everything from deer, water, skulls, earthquakes, flint and wind. Each day is governed by a different deity.

The Eagle of Mexico

Below the Tōnalpōhualli, we can see the great symbol of Mexico City. Or as it was known then as the Aztec capital, Tenochtitlan. The national emblem is the image of an eagle holding a snake in its beak atop a cactus. The Aztecs were told to search the entire country until they saw this image. When they spotted it, it was there where they were to build their capital city.

The Moon Rabbit

In the top right of the frame, we can see the image of the full moon, in contrast to the sun we saw on the left. Inside the moon look carefully to see the small red rabbit. The rabbit is closely associated with the moon in Aztec history. The legend goes that when Quetzalcoatl came to earth as a human, he started on a long journey through the woods.

Quetzalcoatl quickly became exhausted in his new human form. Quetzalcoatl thought he would die alone in the woods without food or water. But then he saw a rabbit grazing nearby who offered to share his food with Quetzalcoatl. After regaining his strength, Quetzalcoatl took the rabbit and lifted it to the sky. He pressed it against the moon. When he brought it back down to earth, he said, “You may be just a rabbit, but everyone will remember you; there is your image in light, for all people and times.” Perhaps because of the connection between the rabbit and Quetzalcoatl, we once more see the feathered serpent emerging from this side of the frame.

Tezcatlipoca

To the left, you can see the god Tezcatlipoca. Tezcatlipoca is the god of the night sky and Huitzilopochtli’s oppositional rival. The god of the sun and moon is seen positioned directly across from each other one the mural. You’ll notice more of these contrasting characters as we go. As Tezcatlipoca is the night god, he is seen with his familiar, the night jaguar. He is often accompanied by the image of a skull that can be seen to the right. Tezcatlipoca can be identified by the large obsidian shield he carries. Another identifying feature is the black (sometimes yellow) stripes painted across his face. 

Tezcatlipoca often goes by the name “Smoking Mirror” as he is also the god of obsidian, divination, and sorcery. Obsidian was frequently used in important shamanic rituals. Look closely at the left foot he has pointed outwards. This foot is made of a large bone after Tezcatlipoca’s battle with a mythological Earth Monster.

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Chalchiuhtlicue

Moving slightly to the right, we can see the goddess Chalchiuhtlicue. Chalchiuhtlicue is the goddess of water, the partner (or sometimes sister) of Tlaloc. She is easily identifiable by the flowing jade skirt she wears. The skirt is meant to resemble the flow of a stream of water erupting behind her.

Directly in front of her, you can make out the image of a great bonfire, with a green shape within. Look closely and you’ll see human-like eyes staring out from the fire. Chalchiuhtlicue is throwing her son into the fire. Sacrificing him to give life to the moon. The Aztec festival of Chalchiuhtlicue involved human sacrifice and often involved women and even children.

Mictlantecuhtli

In the right middle section, we see the image of two gods back to back, standing above what appears to be a minature pyramid. Perhaps the pyramid is actually meant to be human-sized and the gods are depicted in their true form, showing the viewer their sheer enormity. The two gods are Mictlantecuhtli (on the left) and Quetzalcóatl (on the right). Mictlantecuhtli is the god of death and the lord of the Underworld. As seen by the staff he carries with a huge skull embedded in the centre. Quetzalcoatl on the other hand is the god of life, knowledge and light. Together they symbolize the theme of life and death.

The legend of Quetzalcoatl & Mictlantecuhtli

One of the legends surrounding these gods related to the creation of life on earth. One day, Quetzalcoatl went down into the underworld in an attempt to steal the bones of the previous generation of gods. But Mictlantecuhtli didn’t want to give them up. So Quetzalcoatl had to sneak in, but he was caught and dropped the bones in his attempt to quickly escape. The bones were broken during the fall, but Quetzalcoatl quickly grabbed as many as possible and returned to the surface. Upon returning to the surface, the bones were transformed into the different races of mortals on earth. Each one has a different shape and size due to the bones being broken into different pieces after the fall.

The Sacrifice

The lower section of the right murals is dedicated to the warrior’s sacrifice. Every Aztec warrior was required to provide at least one prisoner of war to be sacrificed. Only a warrior who had captured an enemy and offered him up to the gods was able to call himself a true warrior. The warriors can be seen wearing feathered headdresses to look like the gods they so revered.  

South Wall | The Colonial Past

Moving now to the south wall, this is the wall you see most prominently when you walk into the courtyard. This wall moves away from Aztec mythology and into the colonial past. And yet even as the city is being torn apart by the colonizers, the veins of Aztec beliefs still run throughout. The south wall studies the dichotomy between good and evil, represented here on the left and the right by religion and violent war. But in reality, these wars were truly a war on religion itself and tearing away the deeply rooted beliefs of the Aztec culture. And imposing on the indigenous people the new world of Christianity.

Spiritual Conquest

The mural’s left side is themed around the history of the religious conquest that occurred when the Spanish invaded Tenotichilan. On the top left, we can see a large image of the sun. Its rays cast light upon the figure of a man to the right. The man wears on his chest a large golden cross. On either side of his shoulders are two disembodied hands that appear out of a triangle with the all-seeing eye within it. On either of the hand’s palms, we can see two red dots representing the crucifixion wounds of Jesus Christ. In the background of the mural, surrounding the large blue circle in the centre, are various images of angels and religious iconography. This includes repetitive images of the golden cross and sceptre.

The Eye of Providence

The eye enclosed in a triangle surrounded by rays of light is called the ‘Eye of Providence‘ or the all-seeing eye of God. It is the divine image of God who watches over humanity. This eye is seen all over this side of the mural. This image is most often connected to the Freemasons, a religious order that dates back to the 13th century. The activity of the freemasons in Mexico has very deep and secretive mythology. But it is believed that many of the leaders of Mexico belonged to Freemasonry. Perhaps O’Gorman knew something the general public didn’t and this was his way of getting those secrets into the public eye.

Claudius Ptolemy

Without a doubt, the most impactful part of this mural are the two huge blue circles on either side. They look out at the mural like a pair of giant eyes. Following you wherever you go. These represent two opposing views on astronomy. On the left, a small banner hangs below the circle with the name “Ptolomeo” written upon it. Ptolomeo or Claudius Ptolemy was a famed astronomer and astrologer who came to prominence in the Roman Empire. He wrote several important treatises. The most influential of which was his geocentric system. This paper stated the sun revolved around the earth.

The blue circle on the left is meant to reflect those ideologies. In the centre of the circle, we can see a small image of the earth and, around the circumference, the image of the sun revolving around it.

Constellations

In the middle of the blue circle, you can make out several small white stars in amongst a sea of larger symbolic images. Each one represents a different constellation. These are a select few of the 48 Greek constellations listed by Claudius Ptolemy in his 2nd-century astronomical treatise. Most of them are associated with stories from Greek mythology.

At the top, we can see Hydra, the multi-headed water snake slain by Hercules. Moving clockwise, we then see Pegasus, the winged horse who carries thunder and lightning to Zeus. The crown represents Corona Borealis, the crown worn by Princess Ariadne on her wedding day. Below the crown is Orion. Orion is the hunter and son of Poseidon, who is joined by his two dogs. Next is Perseus, who famously slew Medusa the Gorgon and holds her head in his hand. The eagle we see is Aquila, the bird of Zeus and the retriever of his thunderbolts. At the bottom of the circle is Andromeda. Andromeda is the daughter of Cassiopeia and was chained to a rock. We can see her in the mural still enchained to the stars. Ready to be eaten by the sea monster Cetus. 

Beside Andromeda is Ursa Major, the great bear. But once, this creature was a beautiful woman named Callisto, the lover of Zeus. When Zeus’ wife Hera found out Callisto was pregnant, she was furious and transformed her into a bear. To the bear’s left is Capricornus, who has horns like a goat. They are surrounded by several other water-related constellations such as Aquarius, Pisces and Eridanus. The final constellation is Delphine, the dolphin messenger of Poseidon.

Falling Eagle Cuauhtémoc

Directly below the constellations and the banner is the image of an upside-down eagle. The falling eagle is the symbol of great Aztec leader Cuauhtémoc. The name Cuauhtemōc means “one who has descended like an eagle.” This is the fiercest pose for an eagle; when an eagle folds its wings and plummets down, it is about to strike its prey. And yet, despite his aggressive name, Cuauhtémoc took power after the death of emperor Moctezuma II in 1520. His ascension to the throne was during the start of the Spanish invasion and the epidemic of smallpox that killed so many of his people. 

The Burning of Cuauhtémoc

Although he tried to fight off the Spanish, Cuauhtémoc was captured and surrendered to Hernán Cortés, leading to the death of his beloved empire. Cortés kept Cuauhtémoc alive in the hopes he would show Cortés where the riches of the empire could be found. Although they had found some gold, it was nothing like what Cortes had expected. He subjected poor Cuauhtémoc to torture over red-hot coals, but Cuauhtémoc never gave anything up. This scene is somewhat depicted here on the mural. His ‘chimalli‘ shield and a feathered headdress are all that are left on the burning stake. Cortés had Cuauhtémoc executed but, to this day, he is considered a martyr by the Mexican nation.

Diego de Landa Calderón

Also being burnt on the pire are the precious Mayan codices. Diego de Landa was the Spanish bishop sent by the Roman Catholic Archdiocese to Mexico. It was because of him that all the printed histories of the Aztec empire were lost. This devastated historians as their chance at deciphering Maya script or learning more about their civilization were lost to these fires. We can see Calderón standing to the right, overseeing the fires, dressed in Catholic finery. But interestingly enough, the staff he carries resembles the pope’s pastoral staff but features a large skull. Perhaps a commentary on the death of the Aztec empire at the hands of Calderón and the Catholic church.

Habsburgs Crest

The mural’s centre is dominated by the enormous coat of arms featuring two huge eagles. This is the coat of arms of the Habsburgs. This dynasty ruled over Spain for centuries. The Hapsburg emperors contributed much to the formation of the country of Mexico we know today. The Hapsburg coat of arms is formed from the double-headed eagle. The eagle has always been a sign of emperors, but the double-headed eagle could only be used as an imperial title. This could be used for a king who wasn’t voted in by the electors but blessed and crowned by the pope in Rome.

Plus Ultra

A large banner spins itself around the coat of arms with the dates 1521 and 1820. These dates represent the start of the Spanish conquest to Mexican Independence in 1820. Another banner swirls itself around the side with the words Plus ultra. Plus ultra is a Latin phrase and the national motto of Spain. The motto can be translated to “further beyond,” which refers to the idea of taking risks and striving for excellence to move a nation forward.

The Churches

Below the great coat of arms, we see a trifecta of three different buildings atop one another. As we move down the mural, the building transforms into different architectural styles indicating the change in eras. At the very top, we have a series of Roman columns. Below this, we can see the great Aztec pyramids and finally end in the huge baroque Catholic church. Hidden inside many different architectural aspects of the buildings are more masonic eyes. It is also within this part of the mural where the real “eyes” of the building (aka the windows) are placed.

The Devil

On the right side of the mural, we have the image of the moon located in the top right corner. Juxtaposing the images of the sun on the left side. To the left of the moon, we can see the fearsome image of the devil, mirroring the same placement of god. The devil is surrounded by a series of vicious animals and monstrous creatures. Whereas on the left side of the mural, the disembodied hands hold crosses, these hands hold swords and spears. This immediately indicates to us the fact that this portion of the mural is all about war.

Copernicus

Mirroring the image of the large blue circle from the left, we can see another similar image on this side of the mural. On the right we can see another small banner with “Copernicus” written on it. Nicolaus Copernicus was a Renaissance astronomer who discovered and wrote the heliocentric theory. This theory stated that the sun was at the centre of the universe. And that the earth revolved around the sun and not the other way around. This started a charge in the course of scientific history called the “Copernican Revolution.” This discovery was at odds with the Catholic church. So much so that they had Coperniscus’ books banned for over 200 years.

The Zodiac

In the centre of this blue circle, we can see the sun and the image of the earth revolving around the circumference. Surrounding the sun is another set of images; this time, instead of Greek constellations, we find images of the twelve different zodiac signs.

Map of Tenochtitlan

Below the large circle, we see a mosaic image of the map of ancient Tenochtitlan. The beautiful waterways that surround the city vibrantly contrast the terracotta reds of the city. It might seem odd to see a map on the side of the mural dedicated to “war,” but this map show the rich land upon which the city stands. The nation’s wealth was the reason it was so valued and seen as something the Spanish needed to conquer and claim. 

Cortes’ War

To the left of the map, we start to see the graphic depictions of war. Armed men on horseback arrive and can be seen charging in. Horses had been extinct in Mexico for thousands of years, which gave the invading Spanish army an advantage. A huge cannon explodes, its fiery expulsion directed towards the city. The combinations of armour, cavalry and this advanced weaponry meant that the Aztecs stood no chance of being able to defend themselves.

On the bottom right of the mural, we can see Hernan Cortes himself. He is identifiable because he is on horseback, in heavy armour, and wearing a large helmet with colourful plumes. He rides just behind a series of men carrying the Spanish flag as it appeared in 1521. This flag contained two lions and two castles in opposite corners. The two castles represent Castile and León, and the two lions are their rulers.

Laws of the Indies

To the right of Cortes’ entry, we can see a man carrying a scroll sitting in a golden-looking chair. Kneeling in front of him is the defeated Aztec army. The scroll carries the words “Ley de Indies,” which was the Laws of the Indies. The Spanish crown issued this body of laws that were used to regulate the social, political, religious, and economic life in all regions conquered by the Spanish. It was these laws that would start the governmental control over Mexico. These laws were just the start of the colonial system that propelled Mexicans to fight for their independence.

Tlaloc Fountain

In front of the south side mural, to the right of the entrance to the library, is a large stone fountain with the image of Tlaloc. The Aztec rain god is fittingly being used here to bring water to the steps of the library.

East Wall Mural | The Contemporary World

Along the east wall, which looks out over the large open-air grassy courtyard, we can clearly see the theme of the atomic age. The symbol of the atom in the centre of the mural represents the explosion of knowledge in the 20th century. Above the atom, we can see the great Eagle of Mexico rising up above. A symbol of the country’s spirit leading them into this new era of ascension.

The Sun and the Moon

And yet, despite the modernity that is featured on this side of the mural, on the top right and left, we still see the images of the sun and the moon. Both of which continues to be a through-line that connects all side of the library murals. The sun and the moon represent duality which we also see represented in the scenes of the city and country below. 

The City’s Industry and the Rural Countryside

The left side of the frame represents the industrial progress of the nation, while the right side depicts the natural world. That natural world, Mexico’s rich agricultural landscape, remains unchanged, no matter the scientific progress around it. On the left we need a modern factory while the right we can see traditional Mexican architecture.

Below the image of the atom, in the centre of the mural, we can see a man dressed in Aztec garb. In one hand, he grasps a snake, while in the other, he holds a worker’s hammer. Above his head, on either side, respectively, are images of science and industry and the natural Mexican landscape.

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Viva la Revolution

On the lower left of the mural, we see two men holding a banner proclaiming “Viva la Revolution!” They are the people who represent the people of the Mexican Revolution. Above them, the three men hold what appears to be a globe in their hands as if the introduction of the factories would lead to the creation of this new world. 

Tierra y Libertad

On the lower right we see another group holding a banner stating, “Tierra y Libertad,” which translates into Land and Freedom. Unlike the factories, the people on the right represented farmers who work the land in the same way that has been down for many centuries, back to Aztec times. But just like the factory workers on the left, the also desire revolution and freedom for their country.

West Mural | UNAM and Mexico Today

The last of the murals we will look at is on the west side of the building. This side of the library faces the highway and acts almost like a billboard for cars passing by. The theme of this mural is all about the University itself. After all the previous murals, which reference the history of Mexico, we finally land on the present and the future of the country.

UNAM Crest

In the centre of the mural is the great crest of UNAM university. When O’Gorman created the mural, the crest had just been finalized, so this was a great way to announce it to the public. The crest of the University was designed by famed writer, philosopher, and politician José Vasconcelos. He held the position of university rector in 1920 when the seal was being redesigned. So Vasconcelos took it upon himself to bring his vision to life.

At the very top, we can see a banner flying in the wind with the words the National Autonomous University of Mexico in large letters. Below this is what appear to be two great golden eagles. But they actually are one Mexican eagle and one Andean condor. Each one facing out towards the university campus, as if on guard. 

The two birds hold a great shield with a map in the centre front. This depicts a map of Latin America with a star where Mexico can be found. Around the shield is the phrase, “For my people, the spirit shall speak.” The motto speaks to the conviction of the Mexican people. Their ability to rise up against all odds, to protest,to fight, all the while their spirts enriched by their cultural history.

Below the shield, you can see the image of a volcano and a series of mountains, representing Mexico’s roots. Surrounding the great shield, O’Gorman wove a series of pre-Hispanic symbols and images to ensure that we always carry the past with us even as we move into the future.

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Students of the Future

On the lower part of the mural, we see the images of the past and the present. On the left, we see the image of an old Aztec temple, contrasted on the right by the images of the modern architecture of the University. Below these structures are the people of Mexico City. On the left, we can see the indigenous Mexican wearing traditional dress, contrasted on the right by a series of students wearing the fashions of the 1950s. They are carrying objects relating to the various studies at the University like science, engineering, and sports.

Las Islas

From the library, take a stroll through the large grassy knoll called “Las Islas,” or the Islands. This large expanse of grass is almost always covered by students relaxing or studying in the sunshine. You can find street food vendors selling simple snacks or sweet drinks to keep you cool on hot days. It’s honestly a great spot to sit down and enjoy a little bag of duros or chicharrones.

You might spot a series of large concrete globes with grilles that look almost like medieval knights’ helmets. These were old lights used to illuminate the courtyard at night, but alas, they have seen better days and no longer work. But one can imagine how these little globes of light would have looked like spectacles around the grass as the sunsets.

The Faculty of Architecture Building

On the opposite side of the Islands, we can see the modernist gem which holds the Faculty of Architecture. I love studying at this building from afar before getting up close. From far away, you can really appreciate how the building is meant to resemble a snake as it moves along the earth. Like a wave represented in the various undulating arches. The building was designed by architect Jose Villagran. As it was to host the faculty of architecture, they really wanted this building to embody the ideals of the architectural school. And provide a modern building for the students who studied there to aspire towards creating.

One of the most modern techniques utilized in the construction was the addition of “brise soleil” or sun breakers. These are the red slats that run along with the second storey of the building. Brise soleil was a new architectural feature that allowed buildings to control and reduce the sunlight that beats down on the building by deflecting the light. This meant that you wouldn’t need to waste excess energy on powerful air conditioning even in the peak of the summer.

The Conquest of Energy Mural

Head around to the north walls from the front of the building, where you can find an incredible mural by Chávez Morado. José Chávez Morado was a Mexican muralist who worked in the same circles as the other artists we have seen this far. Chávez Morado created three different murals for the campus. But unfortunately, the third mural, created in vinyl, did not stand the test of time.

Thankfully the other two murals were made of Venetian glass mosaics. Chávez Morado travelled to Italy to study the production of mosaics and how their old masters managed to capture such brilliant colours in the glasswork. When he returned to Mexico, this masterful technique was highly regarded by his peers, who marvelled at the vibrant colours he managed to produce. Unlike anything anyone had seen before and a highlight for the campus. 

The name of this mural is the ‘Conquest of Energy.’ Reading the mural from left to right, we can see the primitive Mexican people cowering beneath a sickly tree. They are cowering in fear of the large jaguar which leaps above them, perhaps stalking them for food. With nothing but the barren tree to protect them they surely await death…

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The Myth of Prometheus

But then we see one man come forward, holding a lit torch, which he uses to ignite the fire. The man is perhaps an allegory for Prometheus, who stole fire from the gods to give to people on earth to lead them into the future. This man is seen dressed in animal skin, perhaps that of a jaguar, showing man’s dominance over the animal kingdom with the introduction of fire.

Fire would both keep these people safe and move them forward into a new era. As fire as the through-line that connects each of the parts of the mural, the colouring of the entire piece is so fiery! In the middle section, a series of men then carry the flame in their hands. They walk towards the right of the frame, with each step the men start walking more and more upright in their stance.

Atomic Ressurection

Toward the right, two men hold their palms out towards each other, almost touching a floating atom which stands between them. Representing the fusion of the atom. But below the image of the atom, we can see a man collapsed in the arms of a beautiful woman dressed in a red robe. The man’s ribs are sticking out, and he looks sickly. And yet, in his eyes, there is a spark as he gazes up towards the atom. As if the atom is about to resurrect him.

Just to the women’s right, we can see the sick man transformed. His energy and strength have returned as he stands with his arms spread wide in triumph. A ghostly blue figure, the same colour as the energy around the atom, stands beside him. Perhaps the spirit of the atomic energy that brought him back to life.

The final piece to study is the small tree at the bottom right. It resembles the lifeless tree we saw in the first part of the mural, but this tree is covered in bright green leaves and is blossoming with fruit. Fruit is the symbol of knowledge. Knowledge that has been growing with the discovery of atomic energy.

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The Return of Quetzalcóatl

Another mural by Chávez Morado can be found inside the courtyard of the school of architecture. Depending on the day, entry into the building might be restricted but usually, if it’s open, if anyone asks, just mention you are on your way to see the mural. The courtyard is home to a few picnic tables for students to eat at, highlighted by this incredible mural. Perhaps because of its slightly more obscure location, this mural is almost perfectly preserved.

Quetzalcóatl

It features a scene all about Quetzalcóatl. Quetzalcóatl, the feathered serpent, was the god of winds and rain. But he is also best known as the creator of the world and humanity. In this scene, Quetzalcóatl has transformed himself into a giant raft. He carries on his back seven representatives from various cultures around the world. 

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Cultural Representatives

From left to right we can study each one of the different cultures. We first see the image of an Egyptian pharaoh. Beside him sits the hooded figure of a Franciscan friar, a symbol of Christianity. The blue-winged figure that sits behind them is perhaps an angelic creature riding beside the friar.

The central figure has the body of a naked man but wears a large colourful mask. The mask is meant to resemble the head of Ehecatl, who was the pre-Columbian god of the wind. He works alongside Quetzalcóatl to propel their boat onwards. The man to the right of Ehecatl carries two golden chalices. He represents Mesopotamia. Next, we can see the toga-clad Greek representative and beside him sits the image of the bodhisattva in prayer as a representative of Eastern cultures. The final image is of a Muslim man wearing his turban and brown robes.

To the left of the boat, you can see the image of an Aztec pyramid in the distance being attacked by a series of swords and spears. Perhaps the omen of the Spanish Conquest that would follow. Behind the entire scene, there seems to be a fire burning. Fire is often a symbol which refers to eternity, as in the “eternal flame.” This means that even when invaders try to come in and rid your nation of all that is sacred, your culture will remain eternal. In the hearts and minds of the people.

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Chemistry Building Mural

Continuing east, head into the large open courtyard facing the Chemistry Building. You’ll recognize it right away as the Chemistry Building by the giant Periodic Table seen on the windows. The ingenious designers used the square shapes of the windows to create a mural plastered onto the inside to create a larger-than-life Periodic Table.

Cosmic Ray Pavilion 

Crossing northeast across the basketball and sports courts head towards the front of the Faculty of Medicine. On the way towards this building, make a quick stop beside the Cosmic Ray Pavilion. The relatively small pavilion is made of concrete and once contained two labs used to study cosmic rays and nuclear disintegration. Although it is small, it displays some exciting advances in concrete architecture. Because of the slightly dangerous nature of these experiments, they were required to be located outside the main buildings. Today it remains a memory of this period of discovery at the university.

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Faculty of Medicine Mural 

Beyond the Cosmic Pavillion is the brilliant mural outside the Faculty of Medicine. The mural is called “La vida, la muerte, el mestizaje y los cuatro elementos,’ by Francisco Eppens Helguera. This translates to “Life, death, mestizaje, and the four elements.” The word “mestizaje” means “of mixed race,” and refers to mixtures of race and culture. Much of the population of Mexico City is made up of mixed races. When the Spanish first invaded, many Spaniards had “relations” with the indigenous people. Involving consensual and non-consensual relationships. This produced a new race of half Spanish, half indigenous people.

Despite having some Spanish blood, mestizajes were considered lesser in their social status than purebred Spaniards. But they were also not entirely accepted by the purely indigenous community. This social cast system and complex cultural history are still something that Mexico struggles with even today. The three faces on one head in the centre of the mural represent the idea of multiple races and cultures living inside one body.

Surrounding the rest of the mural we can see many of the Aztec gods we studied in the Central Library mural. But mirrored here in a series of surreal scenes. We can see the feathered serpent encircling the background. We can see Quetzalcoatl’s fangs and round eyes looking out at us at the bottom right of the mural. The four elements, wind, air, fire and earth are all woven into the design seamlessly along with a series of pre-hispanic symbols.

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Overcoming of Man through Culture

Heading off towards the left, you can see the image of “La superación del hombre por medio de la cultural,” which means the overcoming of man through culture. The mural stands on the outside of the Faculty of Dentistry. It was painted by Francisco Eppens Helguera, who became most notable for his 1968 redesign of the Mexican coat of arms. Made up of glass mosaics it shimmers in the sunlight. The mural features a man emerging from the roots of a tree. But in the place where they should be ahead, the neck fades away into a bright blue flame. This image of a man embued with fire once more highlights the idea of the Promethean man bearing fire.

Almost like a shadow, behind the man in the front of the frame, we can see another headless body, this one dressed in the robes of a Franciscan priest. Behind him, the great wings of an eagle emerge out of the mountains. To the left of the figures, we can see a giant snake, the symbol of knowledge, crawling underneath the scene. The entire piece gives the viewer the message of man’s struggles to rise up, and only through culture is he given the strength to overcome.

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Visiting the South Campus

This is the last mural we will study in our guide but if you’d like to keep exploring there are lots more areas of the campus to discover. You can consider hopping in an uber or jumping on one of the free campus buses to visit the southern part of the campus. On the south campus, you can visit the Outdoor Sculpture Gallery, the Botanical Gardens, the University Museum Contemporary Art, or Universum (The Museum of Science and Technology.) Or simply wander around the campus building to see more of what this incredible place has to offer.

Let me know if you enjoyed this tour of the wonderful architectural features of the UNAM campus! Tell me in the comments if you’ve visited this campus before or what your favourite university campus has been to explore anywhere in the world!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Guide to the Architectural Wonders of UNAM Campus in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Romance in Mexico City

1. Xochimilco Canals
2. One-in-a-Lifetime Dinner at Pujol
3. Colourful Street of Coyoacan
4. Sunset at the Torre Latinoamericana
5. Rent a Paddle Boat in Chapultepec Park
6. Alameda de Santa María la Ribera
7. Paseo de Reforma on Sundays
8. Picnic in Parque Mexico
9. Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

Xochimilco Canals

The canals of Xochimilco, just outside of Mexico City, are a sight to behold. The historic landmark is over 450 years old and is still used as an essential source for agriculture. The canals are filled with chinampas, floating gardens that have been growing food since pre-Hispanic times. These chinampas were initially created to grow crops on dry land using the water from Lake Xochimilco.

But today, they primarily serve as recreation areas where people enjoy boat rides and fresh produce. The canals of Xochimilco are an iconic representation of Mexico City’s history, culture, and natural beauty. If you’re looking for a tranquil place to visit while in Mexico City, be sure to stop by this historical spot!

One-in-a-Lifetime Dinner at Pujol

Nothing is quite as romantic as a dinner at Pujol. When it comes to having the perfect date night this is the place to go! This famous restaurant has been labelled by many as one of the best restaurants in the world. It made the top 10 in 2021! The creator, Chef Enrique Olvera, is still one of the most influential chefs in the world.

His style is all about layering flavours and surprising tastes from his native country. The dishes are made from fresh, local ingredients sourced from small producers. The Pujol experience is about discovery and exploration. A gastronomical and sensorial journey and one you and your partner will never forget!

Colourful Street of Coyoacan

If you’re looking for someplace to get away from it all – even if it’s just for a little while – head to Coyoacan. Coyoacan is one of those gems where the city feels like it hasn’t changed in 100 years. It is filled with beautiful architecture, quaint street markets, and the most delicious Mexican food in the world! There’s no better way to experience the area than by wandering through these streets hand in hand with someone you love.

My favourite thing to do in Coyoacan is walking down Avenue Francisco Sosa to the Chapel of Santa Catarina. This quaint yet beautiful church is situated in this great plaza always decorated with festive papier piccolo. I have never been wandering here and not seen a couple wrapped in an embrace here. There is just something about this spot that seems to evoke romance. Jump across the street and into the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This picturesque house sits inside this unbelievably fantastic garden which is totally open to the public. It’s really the perfect place for a romantic date.

Sunset at the Torre Latinoamericana

The Torre Latinoamericana is located in the heart of Mexico city’s Historic Centre. The building offers a 360-degree panorama of the city and its skyline. On of the upper levels, you’ll find restaurant Miralto. The dining room features unparalleled views across the city. Although it has one of the best pieces of real estate, the prices here are shockingly reasonable. While the views are always amazing, you should book a table in advance to be here just before the sunset to get the most romantic atmosphere here. Arriving just before the evening means that as you enjoy your meal, you’ll be able to catch the absolutely unforgettable sunset across the valley.

Rent a Paddle Boat in Chapultepec Park

Chapultepec Park is one of the largest city parks in Latin America. It’s located just west of Mexico City’s downtown area. It houses many attractions, including museums, monuments, a zoo, and an amusement park. On the northern edge of Chapultepec Park, you will find a small lake where locals come to pass the time and cool off on hot days. Visitors can rent boats or rowboats on Chapultepec Lake and enjoy the park’s natural beauty from their own private boat.

These small boats give visitors a chance to explore the lake up close, away from all the noise around it. Paddleboats are a great way to explore Chapultepec Park and get close to the one you love. If you come during the Jacaranda season, the entire lake is surrounded by purple blossoms, one of the most spectacular sights you’ll ever see!

Alameda de Santa María la Ribera

Santa María la Ribera is a northern neighbourhood of Mexico City where the local flare is still as strong as ever. The community is just on the verge of gentrification. Although things are still rough, the streets are pouring with history and authenticity. On Sunday, the neighbourhood seems to all come out to the plaza surrounding the famous Kiosco Morisco.

The Alameda de Santa María is the meeting point for dancers on Sunday afternoons. They will be seen dancing to cumbia music. Cumbia is a musical rhythm and traditional folk dance from Colombia but popular here in Mexico City. While the dancer is mainly elderly couples, they are more than willing to encourage you to join in. You can also just sit and watch on the sidelines. Watching the love that these elderly people still exude towards each other through dance is genuinely such a romantic way to spend an afternoon.

Paseo de Reforma on Sundays

There is something really romantic about trying something new together. Unless you’re an avid cyclist, many of us haven’t been on a bike in years. There is something about hopping on that bike that makes you feel like a kid again, and cruising along seems to evoke that childish glee. Something fantastic to share with those you love. On Sundays, in Mexico City, the Paseo de Reforma is closed down to automobile traffic to allow cyclists, scooters, and pedestrians to take over. The street is one of the most important in the city. It is dotted with incredible statues, architecture and sights along the way. You can rent a bike or even get one free at the government-sponsored booths.

If biking isn’t your thing, you can also rent a scooter to cruise along the broad avenues. But if you’d rather keep both feet on the ground, you can simply walk along the street. A street which is often unbearable loud from the traffic is suddenly one of the city’s most picturesque and peaceful jaunts. On either side of the road, vendors pop up where you can sample some incredible street food or shop at one of the many local artisans. A perfect afternoon date.

Picnic in Parque Mexico

One of the most romantic places in the city has got to be the Parque Mexico in the centre of La Condesa. The park stands today was the former site of the horse race track of the Jockey Club de México. Today the enormous green space is home to dozens of architecturally beautiful benches nestled into the forest. You can always find dozens of young couples here, escaping the prying eyes of their family, kissing under the palm trees.

The Teatro al Aire Libre Lindbergh (Lindbergh Open Air Theater) is the central hub of the park. It features these great five monumental pillars and is surrounded by a winding pergola that is almost blooming with bright fuchsia flowers. The theatre is often home to neighbourhood soccer games and always a space for the cutest dogs! In 2020 park also became home to a new AudioRama. Here, you can sit in one of the many comfortable swinging chairs and listen to the music piped through the park meant for relaxation, meditation and enjoyment of the public. An excellent spot for your loved one and you to have a peaceful cuddle.

Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

The colourful Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela is the best place to shop for sourvenirs in Mexico City. But it is also one of the most exciting and vibrant places to explore. A really romantic and exciting date idea is actually to split up…at least for an hour. I actually mean that they give each other a tiny budget, say $500 peso ($25 USD) and spend an hour looking for something inside the marketplace to gift each other.

It’s so fun to explore the market, especially finding something to impress your loved one. It makes you look at each item from a different perspective, and you will be so surprised at what you’ll find along the way. My husband loves wrestling and was able to find some really unique t-shirts designed by local artists that were inspired by retro Lucha Libre posters. He still wears those shirts all the time, and it always makes me fondly remember our first trip to Mexico City.

Let me know in the comments where your favourite Romantic spots are in Mexico City!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Most Romantic Places to See in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.