This summer, while living in Barcelona, I had the chance to review Art Ticket Barcelona. And I must say this pass is the perfect thing for any art lover. If you plan on visiting any three of Barcelona’s premiere museums listed on the Art Ticket Barcelona, then you’ve already paid for the pass in one go. And with the pass, you might be pushed to discover some museums and galleries you might never have thought of seeing before. But many of these might open your eyes to works of art you will come to have a deep appreciation for.

Table Of Contents

1. About the Art Ticket BCN
2. #1. Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya
3. #2. Fundació Joan Miró
4. #3. Museu Picasso
5. #4. The Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona
6. #5. The Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona
7. #6.

About the Art Ticket BCN

Barcelona Art Passport invites you to take a fascinating journey through the art at the six best museums in Barcelona. Discover the finest collection of Romanesque mural paintings in the world, enjoy Modernisme and be surprised by the most contemporary art and creation at the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya, the Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona and the Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona. The universes of Miró, Picasso and Tàpies await you as you embark upon this unique experience. The most obvious benefit of these passes is that you will save 45% off the normal admission price. But you also get to skip the line, which can be a real-time saver, especially in the busier summer months. The pass is also valid for 12 months, so if you plan on returning, it is easily spread out over a longer period.

How it Works

The best way to purchase the Articket is online. Once you’ve purchased your ticket online, simply exchange it for your Barcelona Art Passport at the ticket desk of any Articket museum. Then enjoy the experience of seeing the best art in Barcelona!

As someone who loves pieces of ephemera, I was so gleeful when I saw them stamp my actual art passport in each museum I visited. I loved collecting all the stamps as we went!

If you’re unfamiliar with some of the museums and galleries on this list and are considering buying the pass, I’ve given you all the details about each museum. As well as some of my favourite artworks in each space. This piece better helps you understand the culture and history of the Catalan people, as well as the artistic movements that put Spain and Barcelona on the map!

#1. Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya

The Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya sits in the towering Palau Nacional that looks over the city like an artful guard tower. The Palau National was the piece-de-resistance of Barcelona’s 1929 International Exhibition, so even just visiting the museum building itself is an experience. The Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya is the largest museum in Barcelona. It exhibits the world’s finest collection of Romanesque murals. Included in the collection are some fantastic paintings by influential Spanish painters El Greco and Diego Velázquez. It is also a wonderful place to visit to see beautiful examples of Catalan Modernism, with works by Gaudí. To end the experience, head to the roof, where you can enjoy 360º views of Barcelona.

Frescos of Church of Sant Climent de Taüll

The most important artworks to see in the museum are the Romanesque frescos. These incredibly preserved artworks from the Church of Sant Climent de Taüll were painted 1000 years ago! If they had been left in their original location they would have been lost to the ages, but art collectors and historians managed to move the fresco, by striping them off the walls and reproducing the exact same architectural details of the original churches here inside the museum. Here they will rest for ages to come in an environment which will assure their safety for hundreds of years to come. These frescoes are still as vibrant and the faces of the people painted on them still astonishingly emotive. It’s amazing to see the amount of colours used throughout and makes the world of thousands of years ago that much more amazing.

The Spanish Wedding by Marià Fortuny

Going ahead a few hundred years in Spain, we find ourselves in the middle of Catalan Modernism. Marià Fortuny is one of the most important Spanish artists of his era. He is best known for his incredibly detailed paintings, which provide an almost photo-realistic view of what life would live looked like in Spain in the 1800s. In this painting, we see the scene of a wedding party assembled to sign a wedding contract. Surrounding the group are textiles and furnishings which give us a glimpse in the styles popular at the time. Seated to the right of the wedding party are lower class groups of lower class people, highlighted with a bull-fighter in full regalia.

Address: Parc de Montjuïc, 08038 Barcelona
Hours: From 10 am to 6 pm, from Tuesday to Saturday.
Until 8 pm, from May to September.
From 10 am to 3 pm, Sunday and public holidays.
Closed: Mondays (except public holidays), Jan 1st, May 1st, Dec 25th

#2. Fundació Joan Miró

The Fundació Joan Miró is an internationally renowned museum where visi­tors can enjoy and learn more about Joan Miró. Joan Miró’s imaginative and abstract art, characterized by playful shapes, vibrant colours, and dreamlike symbolism, blurs the lines between reality and fantasy, incorporating elements from his Catalan heritage and personal experiences. He was a pioneer in surrealism and contributed significantly to 20th-century modern art. 

The Fundació is an exceptional building designed by the architect Josep Lluís Sert. It stands inside the Parc de Montjuïc, and you can enjoy magnificent views over Barcelona. So even a trip up here will provide you more than just a visit to a museum but also a fantastic view of the city.

Catalan peasant in the moonlight

Catalan Peasant in Moonlight evokes two recurring themes within Miró’s body of work: the connection between humanity and the earth, symbolized by the peasant figure, and the mystical allure of the night, represented by the moonlight. The fusion of man and the earth becomes evident through the shared use of the colour red, both for the peasant’s face and the exposed portions of the landscape. However, in Miró’s artistic universe, the boundaries between sky and earth blur, highlighting their interdependence. This interplay results in a harmonious exchange: the peasant’s attire adopts the hues of the night, while the sky assumes the tones of the field. Additionally, the moon’s shape hints at a sickle, imparting a poetic layer of meaning to the scene.

Pair of Lovers Playing with Almond Blossoms

During the 1970s, Miró began to explore larger and more ambitious sculptural projects, receiving notable commissions for outdoor pieces, which he enthusiastically embraced. Pair of Lovers Playing with Almond Blossoms embodies a minimalist approach, featuring simple shapes adorned with vibrant colours, suggesting that the larger sculpture closely adhered to the smaller original model. The artwork portrays two abstract figures within an enigmatic, perhaps surrealist, realm.

One figure is a tall cylinder with yellow and reddish sections, crowned by a blue spherical shape embellished with prehistoric-style abstract motifs imbued with symbolic significance. The second figure is a tall structure with a pointed blue element leaning away, accented by a red, claw-like feature around its midpoint. This element could be interpreted as a hand reaching out to catch the ball perched atop the other figure, though further exploration is required for a definitive interpretation.

Address: Parc de Montjuïc s/n, 08038 Barcelona
Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday, from April to October, from 10 am to 8 pm
Thursday, from 10 am to 9 pm
Saturday, from 10 am to 8 pm
Sunday and public holidays, from 10 am to 3 pm
Closed: Mon (except public holidays)

#3. Museu Picasso

The Museu Picasso of Barcelona is the reference centre for Pablo Picasso’s formative years. The 4,355 works of the Muse­um’s permanent collection reveal the genius of the young artist. The Picasso Museum of Barcelona is filled with a piece of Picasso’s work before he discovered Cubism, but many of which lend hints of what’s to come. Some people might be disappointed not to see any of his more famous pieces, but I think this collection is unique and truly personal to this city. We’ve all seen, at least in photographs, most of Picasso’s classic paintings, but these hidden gems are something you’ll only find in Barcelona. And they give us a glimpse of a young, burgeoning Picasso.

Science and Charity

At first glance, Science and Charity looks like it was painted by Goya or Fortuny. You’d never have imagined that a painting with such attention to realistic detail and subtle tones would be from the same man who later was defined by primitive geometric shapes and powerful colours. As a child, Picasso was a prodigy, and his father encouraged him to enter this piece into a competition, launching his career into the stars, where it would only expand from there.

Las Meninas Series

Pablo Picasso’s series of paintings based on Diego Velázquez’s masterpiece “Las Meninas” is a notable example of his exploration of art history through reinterpretation and reinvention. Picasso created a total of 58 paintings, drawings, and studies inspired by Velázquez’s iconic work between 1957 and 1961. In these reinterpretations, Picasso reimagined the characters and elements of Velázquez’s composition in his distinctive Cubist style, which he had pioneered earlier in the 20th century.

The original “Las Meninas” depicts members of the Spanish royal court, with a young princess at the center and various attendants and courtiers around her. Velázquez’s painting is celebrated for its complexity, use of mirrors, and exploration of perspective. In Picasso’s versions, he fragmented and deconstructed the figures, reshaping them into abstract and geometric forms. Faces became masks, and bodies dissolved into angular and overlapping planes. Picasso’s reinterpretations play with the viewer’s perception of space, form, and identity, challenging traditional notions of representation in art.

Address: Fundació Museu Picasso of Barcelona, Montcada 15-23
Hours: Tuesday to Sundays: 9am to 7pm (including holidays)
Thursday: until 9.30pm
Monday: 10am to 5 pm (from July 24 to September 25)
Closed: 1st Jan, 1st May, 24th June and 25th Dec.
On 24th and 31st Dec museum closes at 2.00pm.

#4. The Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona

The Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona, commonly known as MACBA, is the most prominent contemporary art museum in Barcelona. The MACBA Collection consists of artworks produced by artists from Catalonia, Spain, and around the world, primarily from 1960 to the present day. These collections encompass a diverse array of artistic mediums and materials, encompassing painting, sculpture, drawing, collage, assemblage, objects, installations, audiovisual creations, and sound recordings, among various other artistic forms and expressions.

Self Portrait, Jean-Michel Basquiat

Basquiat’s self-portrait is a highly charged piece with many influences and expressions. Basquiat himself was highly inspired by Spanish painter Pablo Picasso’s work, which is especially evident in this work. He combines dynamic use of colour and abstract forms to convey layered meanings throughout his paintings. Basquiat was one of the first “graffiti” artists to make this type of work considered “good enough” to make it into the galleries and now is considered one of the seminal artists in the neo-expressionist pop movement. The brush strokes and colours used throughout the piece convey such emotion and, in this piece, anger; it is hard to view the piece without becoming enraged yourself.

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Barrière, Jaume Xifra

Jaume Xifra was a famous Catalan Conceptual artist. In 1959, he fled to France to escape the dictatorship. And it was here in France where he would pour his traumatic experiences into a new form of art. Xifra worked with cheap materials and objects to critique the world of consumerism. ‘BARRIÈRE’ is Xifra’s commentary on the police’s control over the people. A barrier, a device supposedly used to protect pedestrians, is here covered in barbed wire. Putting the supposed pedestrians at risk and creating an even more violent separation of the people from the state.

Address: Plaça dels Àngels, 1, 08001 Barcelona
Hours: From 11 am to 7.30 pm, Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday.
Until 8 pm, from June 24th until September 25th.
From 10 am to 9 pm, Saturday.
From 10 am to 3 pm, Sunday and public holidays.
Closed: Tue (except public holidays), Jan 1st, Dec 25th

#5. The Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona

The Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona (CCCB) is a vibrant cultural center dedicated to contemporary culture and the arts. It serves as a multidisciplinary space where various forms of artistic expression, including visual arts, music, literature, film, and digital culture, converge. Unlike the other museums on this list, the CCCB hosts a diverse range of exhibitions and installations that explore contemporary themes, trends, and issues. These exhibitions often incorporate innovative approaches and multimedia elements, encouraging visitors to engage with contemporary art and culture in thought-provoking ways. But the program is always changing as there is not a permanent collection.

When we visited, the exhibition on display was titled “Sade: Freedom or Evil.” This exhibition explored the contemporary cultural, philosophical, and political impact of the Marquis de Sade. De Sade’s writings are seen as both liberating and corrupting, embodying a philosophy of freedom and evil simultaneously. The exhibition delves into his influence on artists and intellectuals, as well as his role as an icon in mass culture. Although the exhibition was pretty confronting, it was by far one of the best-curated art exhibitions I have seen in years. So I can confidently say that any exhibition you come to see here is bound to be of the highest quality.

Address: C/Montalegre 5, 08001 Barcelona
Hours: From 11 am to 8 pm, from Tuesday to Sunday and public holidays.
Closed: Mon (except public holidays), Jan 1st, Dec 25th

#6.

 houses a large collection of artworks by Antoni Tàpies. And the foundation was created to promote knowledge of modern art. Many people don’t even know who Antoni Tàpies is, but learning all about him is a great way to spend a breezy afternoon. The foundation is housed in a modernist building designed by architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner. And the building is an architectural gem in its own right. 

For those unfamiliar with Tapies, he is one of the greatest Catalan artists. His father was a lawyer and Catalan nationalist who influenced his cultural and political identity. Tàpies initially studied law, but his artistic inclinations led him to pursue art at the Acadèmia Valls in Barcelona. His early works were influenced by Surrealism and Catalan artists like Joan Miró. Especially once you’ve visited the Joan Miró foundations, you can see how closely he was tied to the works of Tapies.

Earth on Canvas

Tàpies is famous for his ‘pintura matèrica’ style, where he often incorporated a wide range of materials, including found objects, mixed media, and unconventional materials like sand, string, and marble dust. àpies had a deep fascination with the materiality of art. His paintings are characterized by their textured surfaces, as he used thick layers of paint and collage elements to create tactile, three-dimensional effects.

Address: C/ Aragó 255, 08007 Barcelona
Hours: Tuesday / Wednesday / Thursday / Saturday: 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Friday: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Sunday, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Closed: Mon, public holidays, Jan 1st and 6th, Dec 25th

With so many museums to see, it’s always nice to be able to save a few bucks where you can. With Articket Barcelona, you get access to all six museums for only 38€, a savings of 45% off the normal price of admission. And with this ticket, you’ll find that you’re more inclined to visit some museums you might not have thought to see and experience something unexpected.

The post An Honest Review of Art Ticket Barcelona, A Guide to the Most Amazing Museums first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

The Museo Casa Estudio has been remarkably preserved and restored. It is open for visitors to come inside and explore, a chance to step into the intimate spaces where Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo painted, entertained and simply existed together, as apart. Come with us as we explore the entirety of the Museo Casa Estudio and learn more about the artists who lived here and the man who built this revolutionary property!

Guide to the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo

1. Location & Access
2. Admission & Hours
3. About Diego Rivera
4. About Frida Kahlo
5. Juan O'Gorman
6. Modernist Architecture
   • Functionalism
7. Designing the Casa Estudio
   • Life inside the Casa Estudio
   • Studio as Museum
8. Exterior Foyer
   • The Bathrooms
9. Diego's House
   • 2nd Floor Bedroom
10. Diego's Studio
    • Mezzanine
    • Rooftop
    • The Bridge of Diego and Frida's Love
11. Frida's Studio
    • What the Water Gave Me
12. The O'Gorman Guest House
    • Dining Room Mural

Location & Access

The Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo is located in the neighbourhood of San Angel, in the far south of the city centre. To access the museum, you can take an Uber or taxi directly into the district’s centre. The Uber fare costs about $7 USD and takes about 20-30 minutes (depending on traffic) from the centre of Mexico City. If you’d prefer to take public transit, you can hop on the metro towards Miguel Angel de Quevedo Station. From here, you’ll have to change to one of the city’s metro buses that will take you directly into the Altavista suburbs where the museum is located.

Admission & Hours

The museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday, 11 am to 5 pm. The price of admission is $40 pesos for adults, but children under 13 and seniors are free. Admission is free for everyone on Sundays.

About Diego Rivera

Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo are perhaps two of the most well-known artists to come out of Mexico. It is perhaps no coincidence that the two geniuses would find themselves caught in a passionate web of love, art and fiery drama. Diego Rivera was born in 1886 in Guanajuato City, Mexico. When he was born, he came out of the womb along with his twin brother. Sadly, his brother Carlos died two years after they were born. Twins have this unspoken, deep, almost soulful connection with each other and this loss so early in Diego’s life perhaps touched the young boy with trauma and pain that it seems many infamous artists carry with them. Diego started to draw at only three, just after his brother died. Perhaps as a means to express his grief.

Mexican Muralism

His talents only grew from then, and at the age of ten, he went to study art at the San Carlos Academy of Fine Arts in Mexico City. Rivera travelled to Europe after flourishing at the school in Mexico City. It was there he would refine his unique style of painting under the influence of modern artists like Pablo Picasso and looked to the works of Paul Gauguin and Henri Matisse for inspiration. Rivera returned to Mexico City in 1922 as he had been commissioned by the government to head up their new muralism program. The project was created to promote aimed to National pride through murals that told the history of Mexico that even the working class, illiterate masses could interpret.

About Frida Kahlo

While Diego was painting murals all over Mexico City, Frida Kahlo was just a young girl with her own struggles. Frida was born in 1907 in Coyoacan, a small neighbourhood just outside the centre of Mexico City. Similar to Rivera, Frida had her own ordeals early on in life. She was afflicted with polio at only six years old. This meant that her right leg would always be shorter and thinner than the left, a disability that would affect her for the rest of her life.

But Frida never let this illness defeat her spirit despite being kept isolated at home at such a young age. She looked up to her artistic father, who was a famous photographer, and it was him that inspired her to start painting. While at home, her father taught her things she would never learn so early in school, everything from philosophy, literature and, of course, art and photography. When she went back to school, she flourished, as learning was something that truly excited her.

The Bus Accident

But just as her life was taking off once more, she was hit, literally, by another setback. On her way back from school on the day, in the centre of Mexico City, just a few blocks from where Rivera was painting, the bus she was riding on was hit by a streetcar. A large iron handrail pierced her pelvis, broke her spine in three places and crushed her right leg, as well as a litany of other injuries. She stayed in the hospital for months and had to be put into a plaster corset to aid her spine and chest bones in healing. This meant months of bedrest with nothing to do. Nothing to do but paint. Once more, her father encouraged her to turn her pain into art. Despite these life-altering incidents, she responded with the same vigour for the life she refused to lose despite these accidents.

Frida and Diego’s Marriage

After recovering, Frida discovered the thing she wanted to do for the rest of her life, and that was to paint. She was insistent on becoming the best painter she could be, so she sought out the advice of the greatest Mexican painter she knew, Diego Rivera. Rivera was immediately taken aback by this energetic and bold girl and her obvious talent. Despite being married already (to two different women), Frida and Diego started a relationship. They would be married in 1929 at a wedding her parents entitled “the marriage between an elephant and a dove.“

The couple were immediately taken out of Mexico City and moved to the United States. Rivera had to paint several commissions in San Francisco, Detroit, and New York for the famous Rockefellers. But they knew they would return home to Mexico City and wanted a beautiful hacienda to come back to. This is where their friend, architect and artist Juan O’Gorman would come in!

Juan O’Gorman

O’Gorman had been studying functionalism, inspired by the Swiss designer Charles-Édouard Jeanneret, known as Le Corbusier. O’Gorman was enthusiastic about bringing this modernist style to his home in Mexico City. He saw Mexico City as being a hub for modern thinking and exquisite architecture. The old Hacienda Goicoechea, now the famous San Angel Inn, had sold off the large expanse of their land to become residential housing. O’Gorman loved the neighbourhood and purchased the land currently being used as the tennis courts of the nearby hotel. 

Modernist Architecture

O’Gorman had plans to turn these two plots into the first modernist home in Mexico City. But when he displayed his plan it was very controversial. Most homes here are super traditional, fitting into that 18th century colonial style, and this new modernist vision wasn’t an appealing sight to the neighbours. But despite them turning their noses up at this new technique, O’Gorman solidered on. He built one home as a proof of concept. This home still stands today as the Museo Casa Estudio’s guest house.

Functionalism

Functionalism was a style defined by buildings that were designed around their purpose and function and revolted against excess decoration that didn’t serve a objective. In many European functionalist buildings, glass, steel and concrete were essential elements in their construction. In Mexico, in addition to these materials, O’Gorman wanted to incorporate clay and natural plants into the buildings. Instead of building fences out of wood or wrought iron, he planted rows of tall cacti along the roadside. These elements were native to the environment and followed the functionalist ethos. He would use other plants to create borders that looked almost like they had naturally grown up around the house.

Another element significant in functionalism is using practical elements as expressive decoration. A great example of this is the exposed helicoidal staircases that swirl up the sides of the houses. The stairs are a means of access and yet bring an interesting spacial element to the house’s exterior. Water tanks and drainage pipes also provide dynamic structural details around the house. These were all painted a contrasting orange colour and created this framing effect. Instead of looking too industrial, they manage to have their own architectural charm. But they are, in fact, used for rainwater drainage so are not just ornamental.

Diego’s house features a saw-tooth roof design. This design, while it might look decorative, is actually used to allow natural light into the interior while blocking out the heat of direct sun exposure. This was a technique popular inside industrial factories as early as the 16th century, before electiral lighting could be used to illuminate the interiors. It remains today as one of the most ingenious techniques to bring natural light into the interiors.

Designing the Casa Estudio

When Diego and Frida saw what O’Gorman had created, they quickly decided to purchase the entire property and commissioned him to build them twin buildings. Each one would act as both a residence and a studio, unique to each artist. The two buildings were designed as a pair but also as two oppositional designs. Tied together through the consistent elements of functionalism and a bridge that brought the building together at the top.

Diego’s studio is painted off-white and rust-red. Simple, natural colours. On the other hand, Frida’s studio is painted the same ethereal cobalt blue as her Casa Azul. Both studios feature floor-to-ceiling windows, giving the interior spaces an indoor/outdoor feeling. But are protected from the elements, meaning you can paint inside while feeling like you’re out en plein air. The ideal of these twin structures is eerily similar to Diego and his brother Carlos. Connected together despite the fates of their lives going in two very different directions.

Life inside the Casa Estudio

Construction on the houses ended in 1932, and the couple moved in 1934. Diego and Frida lived here from 1934 to 1939. In 1939, they divorced, and Frida moved home to Casa Azul. Diego kept the house and continued living and painting here during their separation. After their divorce, the couple actually got back together, only 9-months later. But even after this reconciliation, Frida preferred to remain in the Casa Azul.

After Frida’s passing in 1954, Diego would continue to live in the studio house full time. He treasured his time in his home until his death on November 24, 1957. Rivera died in his studio, and his body remained there as friends and family came to sit vigil inside to mourn the loss. After this, his body was moved to the Palacio de Bellas Artes for his grand state funeral. 

Studio as Museum

After his death, Diego’s daughters inherited the houses. When they moved in, their went about drastically changing some of the most iconic aspects of the house and making many ugly additions. They removed the cacti and installed a stone fence. They also demolished the bridge that connected the buildings, one of the most important aspects of the house. Years later, the houses were gifted to the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes to be enjoyed by the public. Restoration began in 1995 to bring back the original nature of the homes and preserve their architectural value. All the additions and fencing were removed, and the house seemed to breathe a sigh of relief.

Exterior Foyer

One of the most wonderful things about functionalist-style houses is that they sit on stilts. These stilts are called pilotis, slender columns that support an upper level. When you walk into the property, the entire exterior courtyard feels like an open-air foyer. But with wonderful shaded areas under those upper levels to escape the sun’s heat (essential in Mexico City!) This open air foyer really exposes the incredible landscape architecture that O’Gorman created around the property. It feels like a gorgeous garden floating below.

Another enchanting thing to study while walking around the exterior are the exposed staircases. The spiral staircase which curls its way up the side of Diego’s studio is a wonderful geometric cement column contrasted against the solid red walls. The stairs almost have this musical-like curvature that flows out of the house.

The only exterior staircase in Frida’s house leads from the second-floor studio up to the rooftop. She would use this pathway to cross the thin bridge which connected to Diego’s house. Especially considering her frail condition and problems with her legs, it’s impressive she would brave such a dangerous-looking crossing. Especially when it originally was designed without any handrails!

The Bathrooms

Standing in the coutyard, you’ll see a smaller blue building, set behind Frida’s house. It looks almost like a minature version of her studio. Today, this tiny structure houses the public washrooms that visitors can use during their stay. Although you might think this was an addition when the museum was built, this building is original! It was designed by O’Gorman as a photography studio meant for Frida’s father. Even now, just as then, nothing is wasted. Functionalism reigns eternal.

Diego’s House

You enter Diego’s House first, via the exterior spiral staircase. The large, mostly empty room you enter on the first floor was used initially for Diego to display the artworks he had up for sale. His personal art gallery. Today, the space houses just a few remaining pieces from Diego’s collections of Pre-Columbian artifacts. Today the majority of his collections are housed in the Museo Anahuacalli.

During their marriage, the Museo Anahuacalli was a pipe dream of both Rivera and Kahlo. They both adored collecting these precious pieces of Mexican history and wanted to share them with the public. Rivera had started construction on this project just before his death. But it was O’Gorman who would see it through as the chief architect in charge of achieveing Rivera’s vision. Much of Rivera’s muralism was influenced by these pre-Columbian figurines. In Rivera’s art we can see the intense facial expressions and powerful geometric shapes reflected in these figurines.

2nd Floor Bedroom

Head back up the stairs, either using the smaller interior staircase or the outer curved stairs. The second level is where we find the painter’s studio and bedroom. The little room you’ll see upon entering is Rivera’s tiny bedroom. In functionalist buildings proportions of bedrooms were much smaller than we would expect. This was because they were seen as rooms only used for sleep and therefore didn’t require a great use of space. This preserved more capacity in areas like the studio which was where the artist spent most of his time.

Plus, the painter wasn’t a fan of sleeping unless it was with women. The room is designed to have only a tiny row of windows along the ceiling. This allowed only a small amount of light to flow inside. This meant the artist could get some sleep no matter what time of day.

The room is still laid out like it’s awaiting the return of it’s owner. Diego’s shoes are sitting on the floor as if he is about to get out of bed. Besides this, there are also his bedpans left here since his death. Atop the bedframe is Diego’s suitcase, as he was a world traveller. On the bedside table, you can also see a collection of his keychains and wallets. All the while the room is watched over by a series of papier-mache figures.

Diego’s Studio

Stepping from the hallway, make your way into the great studio. Immediately you’ll be overcome by the light that pours into theroom from the double-height windows on the north wall. From inside you can also study the effect of the saw-tooth roof windows that fill even the ceiling with light. Diego’s studio is bursting with natural energy. The trees on the other side of the windows almost look like they’re growing inside the house. The separation from indoors to outdoor is only a thin veil in here.

The studio still contains the original brushes and pigments which Rivera used to make his murals. They sit beside his easel like he is about to walk back into the room mid-painting. The painting on the easel is a portrait of Dolores Del Rio, a famous Mexican actress. Diego once said of Del Rio;

The most beautiful, the most gorgeous of the west, east, north and south. I’m in love with her as 40 million Mexicans and 120 million Americans who can’t be wrong.

Diego Rivera

Books, artisan ceramics and pottery, and little curios line the green painted shelves at the back of the room. Glass jars are silhouetted against the window panes. Inside powdered pigment still sit, waiting to be turned into paints. Diego’s studio really feels like a highly intimate space. Each one of the objects was bought by Diego as they caught his eye or gifted to him by a friend and lovingly put on display to be treasured. One of the most interesting decor found on the shelves is a copy of Diego Rivera’s death mask. Allowing him to still watche over all those and anyone who enters.

Judases

Filling the corners of the studio are these huge papier-mâché figures. Images of devils, skeletons and expressive people lean against the walls like inanimate puppets. These are called “Judases” and are popular formed of Mexican folk art. They were originally created as a part of the celebrations before Easter. The figures were made to look like the image of Judas, the Traitor. They would then take this resemblance of the great betrayer and set him on fire, to rid the world of his evil spirit. As years passed and the tradition became more popular, the figures began to take the forms of other, also unfavourable people or things. This could be anything from images of devils, demons, politicians, criminals and, in some cases, even disliked shopkeepers. Today the papier-mache dolls are stuffed with fireworks and blown up on the street. Much to the enjoyment of the onlookers.

But Rivera didn’t blow them up. Instead, he kept them as souvenirs of the local artisans. Although the simple craftsmen who made them might not have seen them as high art, Diego saw these as treasures to keep forever. Their highly expressive faces now look out over visitors from all studio corners.

Mezzanine

Walking back up the stairs, you enter the small mezzanine that looks over the studio. A small table between the two chairs is set in the corner, the perfect place to relax and watch the great painter at work. On the table is a portrait of Diego’s beloved, Frida. One can imagine this would have been where Frida herself would have stood to look down on her husband after coming over from her side of the house. Sometimes finding him hard at work…and other times, and sadly so, in the throes of passion with another woman, much to her dismay. In fact, it may have been right here that Frida discovered Diego cheating on her with her younger sister Cristina. There is no doubt that this house was a place of intensity from all angles.

The mezzanine is also home to Rivera’s office, just in the corner, beside the door to the rooftop. His green leather desk features a old phone, a typewriter and more pre-Colombian art covering the walls.

Rooftop

From the small office, you step out onto the rooftop, the neighbourhood of San Angel opening up all around you. During the Springtime, the purple flowers of the Jacaranda trees light up the skyline.

The Bridge of Diego and Frida’s Love

Although Frida and Diego had a passionate relationship, this firey love also resulted in both positive and negative intensity. When things were good, they were great, but when it was bad, it was very, very bad. So for both their sakes, having a separate working space where one could get away from the other was imperative. But the two buildings are connected by a large bridge on the top. O’Gorman named the bridge “the bridge of Diego and Frida’s love.” A symbol that, at the end of the day, they still found a way to come together and connect. Even when things were dire.

A narrow bridge connects the two buildings, the red-painted railings all you have to hold onto as you cross over. While Frida’s staircase has been closed down, too dangerous for the public to continually cross, you can imagine how the two lovers must have met up here to look out over the city and take in the night air. Even today the rest of the buildings in the area remain at a lower level to the rooftop of the Museo Casa Estudio, making you feel like you have this private oasis all to yourself.

Frida’s Studio

To get into Frida’s studio, you need to walk back down to the courtyard and enter on the ground level. Sadly, there is not much to see inside Frida’s house. Much of what once existed here has been moved to the Frida Kahlo museum in the Casa Azul. If you’re interested in learning more about the life and art of Frida Kahlo, you should definitely check it out, just over in Coyoacan. But there is one reason to go into the house: see the bathroom on the second floor. Sounds odd but stay with me!

What the Water Gave Me

This is where Frida lay when she was inspired to paint “What the Water Gave Me” in 1938. Like toys in a child’s bathtub, Frida painted the images that swam in her mind on top of the water. Memories of her life float around her; the only slice of reality is the cast iron bathtub framing the scene and her little toes sticking out of the water. The bathtub which inspired this scene can still be found in the house. If you’re a bather like me, you’ll know sitting in the bath really is where the imagination comes alive. It’s the best place to sit and think. Shower people will disagree with me I’m sure, but for me, a bath is a perfect way to relax and reflect. And it seems like Frida agrees.

The O’Gorman Guest House

The third large building on the property, located slightly below the other two homes, was the couple’s guest house. It was here that family and friends could stay in their own private apartments. But when the house was being built, it was used almost as a test for O’Gorman’s vision. To separate this house from the main studios, you’ll see another line of cacti fencing and steps leading down, surrounded by lush agave plants.

Construction on his house started in 1929, two years before the dual studio. The most impressive part of the building is the study on the first floor. Three of the four walls inside this part of the house are covered in floor-to-ceiling glass panels. And in fact, the entire glass wall opens up like a giant window. It’s pretty dangerous by today’s standards, as you can just walk right off, but what an impact it makes! The windows open up the space, and it feels like you’re floating in the air. The panels of glass are slightly more opaque on the lower four panels to give some privacy to the interior while still filling it with light.

The exterior ground level connects to the study via a wide-sweeping spiral staircase. Once more, without handrails. Looks gorgeous but can’t be very practical. A more private (and safe for visitors) internal staircase takes guests inside the private spaces which contain a small bedroom, bathroom, dining room and kitchen.

Dining Room Mural

One of the other exciting things to study here in the house is the remnants of the dining room mural that was once painted onto the walls. The mural was called “There is quite a difference between philosophy and science,” painted by O’Gorman. It depicts a stunning and vibrant Mexican landscape dotted with images of science and industry. On the left of the frame, there is an image of a fragile skeleton. This is juxtaposed with a beautiful naked Mexican woman who sits opposite. She sets aside a cup bursting with gorgous fresh fruits. The message is that one must have progress to flourish and grow. Otherwise, you will wither and die, like the old skeleton.

The fresco was only discovered in 2012 when a restoration team found traces of the original mural. When the house was sold off after Diego’s death, the mural was removed from the wall, purchased by the Banco Nacional de México for its private collection. Today you can see a photograph of the real painting beside the sketches found on the house’s walls. While I’m sure it’s well preserved in the bank’s museum, it would be more impressive to see it in situ here in the dining room. Maybe one day!

Thank you for joining us on this self-guided tour of the Museo Casa Estudio of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The Museo Casa Estudio is a wonderfully immersive space to explore, and I hope this guide helped you learn more about all the secrets hidden in plain sight. Let me know in the comments what your favourite discovery was!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Everything you Need to Know About the Incredible Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

This is my highlights tour but if you’re interested in a super in-depth guide, check out my ‘The Complete Guide to Visiting Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia‘.

Access

The Sagrada Familia is pretty easily accessible since it’s located in the centre of town. By metro, you just need to hop on the L5 line towards Sants Station. Upon getting out of the metro, simply follow the signs for the ‘Sagrada Familia.’ If you are arriving by bus, get on the H10 and get off at the València, Lepant stop. If you bought a Hop-On Hop-Off Bus ticket, these also all stop right in front of the church.

Tickets

As the Sagrada Familia is the most famous landmark in Barcelona, it draws in some shocking numbers daily. It’s no surprise that thousands of people enter their doors daily. To ensure you can experience this church easily, it’s always best to book your tickets in advance. You can buy your tickets online up to two months in advance, but I’d advise that you only book them about a week or two before your arrival unless you’re visiting during the holiday season.

When to Go?

When booking your ticket, you need to select a specific entry time. I’d recommend not leaving it too late at night since you want to give yourself plenty of time to explore before the church closes. I’d recommend booking your ticket an hour or two before sunset. That way, you can see the building in the light of day and enjoy the magnificent lighting effect of the sunset across the structure. The golden light inside the Basilica casts the most magical glow over the entire nave, and it feels like being transported to another earthly plane of existence.

Which ticket to buy?

There are basically four ticket types for visiting the Sagrada Familia

• Ticket with Audio Guide 26€
• Ticket with Guided Tour 30€
• Ticket with Audio Guide and Towers 36€

History of La Sagrada Familia

During the 19th century Barcelona, along with the rest of Europe, was undergoing a significant change. The church that had once held such immense power and authority over cities now lost its cultural influence with the growth of independent governments. Urban lifestyles were changing the way that Catalonians lived, and more and more, the church was becoming less and less a central part of their daily routine.

In 1866 the Spanish clergy created the Association of Devotees of Saint Joseph, who took it upon themselves to help bring back the relevance of faith and spirituality in Catalonia. They raised enough money to start construction on a wondrous temple, so spectacular and eye-catching that it would be the spot where pilgrims from all over the world would travel and which would encourage locals to come back into the fold. The church was dedicated to the Holy Family. The first architect of the church was Francisco de Paula del Villar y Lozano, but soon after construction started, he resigned. They then enlisted Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí. And that one decision would be the catalyst for the creation of what is now one of the greatest manmade wonders of the world.

About La Sagrada Familia

The Sagrada Familia is 4,500 square meters large, the size of an American football field, and when you see it in person, you can truly understand just how big that is. The Basilica’s layout is that of a traditional Latin cross design. The Latin cross design features five naves, a crossing, an apse and an exterior cloister-style ambulatory.

The exterior has three different facades, each a varied work of art whose imagery tells a story. Although not yet built, the tallest part of the church will be 172.5 meters tall, the highest point in the city but shorter than Montjuic Mountain (because no manmade building should exceed what God created). The church can hold 14,000 worshippers! That’s the size of a small city. Gaudí wanted to create a place where everyone in the city could gather in one place, making it feel like it was always open to whoever wanted to come in. A small church just wouldn’t have had the same effect.

#1. The Nativity Facade

This was the only part of the church which was entirely designed by Gaudi and which he almost saw finished as it was completed in 1935, just after his death. He was there almost daily overseeing the work, and it feels like the part of the church which is the most personal. The three porticos on the Nativity facade are each dedicated to a theological virtue of the three members of the Holy Family; Hope, Charity and Faith.

#2. The Tree of Life

At the top of one of the Nativity facade’s porticos stands the Tree of Life, a bright green cypress tree. The tree is one of the only colourful parts of the exterior, covered with polychrome. Polychrome decorates architectural elements, like pottery or sculpture, in various colours. The cypress tree symbolizes eternity since it’s an evergreen plant and never loses its leaves. Covering the tree are 21 white doves which fly out of their nests and into the sky. On the top of the tree, like a Christmas Star, is the red and white symbol of the holy trinity. The Greek cross formed the base of this symbol. The Greek cross combines the letters’ alpha’ and ‘omega,’ which mean the beginning and the end.

#3. The Charity Portico Vault

The vault in the Charity portico contains the scene of the Annunciation where the archangel Gabriel tells Mary that she is the chosen one who will bring the son of God into this world. Surrounding this petite scene are the signs of the zodiac depicted in constellations across the sky, just as they would have been on the night Jesus was born. Bands of rosary beads surround the scene.

Hanging around the rosary are medallions carved in stone representing the ‘Miraculous Medals’ you find around rosary bracelets. Above the Charity doorways, here is a chorus of angels. Each of them is a musician, playing instruments popular in both religious settings, like the lute, the violin and the harp, and instruments more accessible to the commoners, like the guitar, the bagpipes and the tambourine. Once more, this was a way of the common fold being able to see themselves in the divine. Running up between the two sets of stained glass windows behind the angels is the multi-pointed star of Bethlehem. This was the star that shone in the sky to announce the birth of Jesus.

#4. The Spires

Gaudi desired to make the Sagrada Familiar as the tallest building in Barcelona. He was inspired by stories of architects in medieval times who built their churches as the central figure in the city. These churches needed to be tall as they were often used as meeting points, a guiding light to those travelling into town. Their bell towers signal the beginning of the workday or even warn people of fires, earthquakes or other devastating events.

Gaudi wanted to implement this same idea, but just one tower wouldn’t suffice. He decided to far and away exceed anything created for basilicas before. His design called for eighteen spires, reaching up towards the heavens. The hollow and hole-filled design of the spires makes them look like a beehive or anthill, as the stone’s colour closely resembles the earth. But the hollow design was actually a form of lanterning, an architectural element that illuminates the church while also giving it enormous height and grandeur.

#5. The Rosary Portal

You’ll first pass through the Rosary Portal to enter the church’s interior. This incredible doorway is called the door of ‘Our Lady of the Rosary.’ In the tympanum above the doorway is the sculpture of the Virgin Mary holding a crowed baby Jesus. Mary also wears a crown, as she is the Queen of Heaven on Earth, but she is also symbolically crowned with an archway of roses on the portal above her. Since the rose is the symbol of purity is almost always hidden somewhere in depictions of the Virgin Mary. Above this doorway is a cupola lantern which perfectly lets in a ray of light which highlights Mary’s face. This effect is almost too beautiful, and it looks heavenly if you didn’t know the cupola was there.

#6. The Arborescent Columns

The interior of the church was meant to resemble a spiritual forest. Gaudi wanted it to feel like a retreat into nature. Gothic churches were revolutionary in creating openness and space; they wanted the interior to feel light and the high ceilings as if they were reaching up toward the heavens. Gaudi once more wanted to take this to the next level. He wanted to incorporate huge stained glass windows on either side, which meant they could not be load bearing, so that load had to be carried elsewhere.

Gaudi researched for years to develop this new concept called the ‘Arborescent Columns.’ Inspired by the strength and beauty of large trees, the columns tilt slightly about their height so they can withstand the roof load. They also split off in two directions, like the branches of a tree and also like a flying buttress to better support the vaults. You expect to see birds flying from branch to branch, making a nest for themselves at any time. And what better place to do it?!

#7. The Vaults

Gaudi combined classical Gothic architecture and Catalan art to create these star-like vaults on the roof, which light could easily pass through. The stars are formed by combining concave and convex hyperboloid shapes, which are critical systems used to disperse light and spread out the roof load. The shape of the stars also closely resembles the form of palm leaves, a powerful symbol in Christianity. Each vault centre is filled with a light diffuser decorated with colourful stained glass in various Christian symbols.

#8. Stained Glass Windows

Light is one of the strongest symbols of faith in Christianity, so it was crucial for Gaudi to bring as much natural as possible, the light of God, into the Basilica. Gaudi developed a new way of creating stained glass, comprised of three panes resulting in a mixture of tones and colours to cast a magical glow into the nave. The leading artist who created these windows was Vila-Grau. Vila-Grau used curved shapes to create abstract forms and ensured that the warm and cool tones were kept separate, resulting in this consistent light flow.

#9. The High Altar’s Baldachin

Over the high altar, we find the incredible sculptural masterpiece, the ‘baldachin.’ A baldachin is a large canopy in a heptagon shape with seven edges, traditionally placed over an altar. These sever corners represent the seven gifts of the Holy Spirit; wisdom, understanding, counsel, fortitude, knowledge, piety and fear of the Lord. Fifty little hanging lights illuminate the rim of the canopy. Around the rim springs grape vines and wheat, the symbols of the Eucharist. A ribbon around the baldachin writes out the Prayer of Glory in back-lit red and Gaudí-style lettering.

#10. The Choir Galleries

Above the nave is a separate space that houses the choir during church services. This area can hold over 1000 singers since Gaudi wanted their voices to fill this enormous temple. Gaudi thought the importance of acoustics in the building to be of the utmost importance as he loved music so much. It was one of the few ways he could unwind and relax. The hyperbolic vaulting he used throughout the church was made to reverberate the sound in a harmonious way and provide light.

#11. The Passion Facade

The final portion of the tour of the church is the Passion Facade. This facade is located on the side of the building where the sun sets, the darkness reflecting the ultimate sacrifice and death Jesus would incur. Compared with the ornate, natural forms of the Nativity Facade, the Passion Facade is gloomy, stark and restrained. Gaudi made sketches for this part of the church when he fell ill with a terrible sickness and almost passed away.

This illness was the closest to death Gaudi would ever come since his eventual death would sneak up on him. During this sickness, he was consumed with fear and poured all these emotions into the design of this part of the temple. While Gaudi died long before this part of the church began construction, architect Josep Maria Subirachs took up his mantle and made it his mission to create precisely what Gaudi had envisioned. Subirach’s figures are inspired by expressionism, in contrast to the realistic figures on the Nativity portal. There are over 100 figures depicted, grouped into 13 different scenes. They rise upwards in an S-shape, starting, in chronological order, with the last supper and ending in the crucifixion.

#12. The Gaudi Museum

Located in the basement of the cathedral is the Antoni Gaudi Workshop and Museum. Although many of the original documents and plans were destroyed when a bomb went off during the Civil War, this newly created space is where the city has taken it upon itself to conserve, restore and put on display pieces of the history of the construction of this church. You can find drawings, period photographs, ceremonial furniture and several scale model copies of the originals here. There is also a model of the original workshop where Gaudi would spend all this time.

Have you been here before? What was your favourite thing to see? If you’re on your way, let me know what you’re looking forward to the most.

Happy Travel Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Highlight Tour of La Sagrada Familia, an Insider’s Guide to Barcelona first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

This is a very detailed guide, so I’ve been sure to make a table of contents for you in case you want to jump to a particular church area. This works great if you’re visiting and need more clarification on a certain area. If you’re looking for a shorter summary of what to see, check out my post on the ‘Top 12 Things to See.’ That guide is ideal if you’re pressed for time and want just the highlights tour!

Table Of Contents

1. Access & Admission
2. History
3. Sagrada Familia Design
4. The Nativity Facade
5. The Charity Portico
6. The Tree of Life
7. The Monumental Columns
8. Faith Portico
9. The Spires and Towers
10. The Cloisters
11. The Rosary Portal
12. The Interior Apse
13. The Arborescent Columns
14. The Crypt
15. The Passion Facade
16. The Glory Facade
17. The Schoolhouse
18. The Gaudi Museum

Access & Admission

The Sagrada Familia is pretty easily accessible since it’s located in the centre of town. By metro, you just need to hop on the L5 line towards Sants Station. Upon getting out of the metro, simply follow the signs for the ‘Sagrada Familia.’ If you are arriving by bus, get on the H10 and get off at the València, Lepant stop. If you bought a Hop-On Hop-Off Bus ticket, these also all stop right in front of the church.

When to Go?

When booking your ticket, you need to select a specific entry time. I’d recommend not leaving it too late. You want to give yourself plenty of time to explore before the church closes. I’d recommend booking your ticket an hour or two before sunset. That way, you can see the building in the light of day and enjoy the magnificent lighting effect of the sunset across the structure. The golden light inside the church casts the most magical glow over the entire nave. And it feels like being transported to another earthly plane of existence.

Tickets

As the Sagrada Familia is the most famous landmark in Barcelona, it draws in some shocking numbers daily. It’s no surprise that thousands of people enter their doors daily. Booking your tickets in advance is always best to ensure you can experience this church easily. You can buy your tickets online up to two months in advance. But I’d advise that you only book them about a week or two before your arrival unless you’re visiting during the holiday season.

Which ticket to buy?

There are basically four ticket types for visiting the Sagrada Familia:

• Basic Ticket 17€
• Audio Guide Ticket 25€
• Guided Tour Ticket 26€
• Audio Guide and Towers Ticket 32€

While I did enjoy my guided tour, and I’d usually strongly recommend them, I felt like the guide rushed us through the church. Fair enough, there is so much to see, and you only have them for an hour. But even still, it felt incomplete. Even though I could go back to what I felt I’d missed after the guided tour, there was so much to see that I wished I could have understood better. That’s why I created this blog!

This self-guided tour allows you to go at your own pace. You can sit and absorb what you’re seeing. Take a moment to just listen to the sounds around you. And learn about all the facets of the church. Plus, this free tour will save you a bit of money. While the towers are interesting to see and give a nice view over the city, there are betters views to be found for a much lower price. So I’d advise skipping them and instead focusing on looking into the building instead of out of it.

History

During the 19th century Barcelona, along with the rest of Europe, was undergoing a significant change. The church, which had once held such immense power and authority over cities, now lost its cultural influence with the growth of independent governments. Urban lifestyles were changing the way that Catalonians lived, and more and more, the church was becoming less and less a central part of their daily routine.

In 1866 the Spanish clergy created the Association of Devotees of Saint Joseph. They took it upon themselves to help bring back the relevance of faith and spirituality in Catalonia. They raised enough money to start construction on a wondrous temple. A church is so spectacular and eye-catching that it would be the spot where pilgrims from all over the world would travel and which would encourage locals to come back into the fold. The church was dedicated to the Holy Family. The first architect of the church was Francisco de Paula del Villar y Lozano. But soon after construction started, he resigned. They then enlisted Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí. And that one decision would be the catalyst for the creation of what is now one of the greatest man-made wonders of the world.

Master Architect Antoni Gaudi

Antoni Gaudí is the mastermind behind this incredible church design. Gaudí’s works can be seen all across Barcelona. And he was one, if not the most, influential artist who helped create the Modernism movement in Catalonia. Gaudí was inspired by neo-Gothic art, organic forms, and Oriental techniques, which can be seen throughout.

Gaudí’s style formed the artistic style of the city, and the critical piece to his portfolio is the Sagrada Familia. Gaudí’s greatest inspirations were nature and religion. In designing the Sagrada Familia, he combines these elements to near perfection. Gaudí’s aim in creating this Basilica was to link heaven and earth together. He was inspired by the nearby Montjuic Mountains’ shape and power over the valley. He wanted the church to feel like a new mountain sprung from the ground.

Gaudi’s Death

Gaudí was run down by a streetcar and died in 1926. Only a small portion of the Basilica had been built when he passed. Although his life was cut short, Gaudí knew he would never see the church finished. He looked back to the great medieval cathedrals which took hundreds of years to create. Some take over 100 years from start to completion. He put every ounce of creativity, innovation and imagination into the temple’s design. When he died, his revolutionary work would inspire the next architect who took over. Many people were surprised that Gaudí would set out to create something which would take so long to build; when asked why, Gaudí would always say, “My client is not in a hurry.” This is where he got the nickname “God’s Architect.”

Sagrada Familia Design

The Sagrada Familia is 4,500 square meters large. It’s the size of an American football field. And when you see it in person, you can truly understand how big it is. The Basilica’s layout is that of a traditional Latin cross design. The Latin cross design features five naves, a crossing, an apse and an exterior cloister-style ambulatory. The exterior has three different facades, each a varied work of art whose imagery tells a story.
Although not yet built, the tallest part of the church will be 172.5 meters tall. The highest point in the city but just shorter than Montjuic Mountain (because no man-made building should exceed what God created). The church can hold 14,000 worshippers! That’s the size of a small city. Gaudí wanted to create a place where everyone in the city could gather. Making it feel like it was always open to whoever wanted to come in. A small church just wouldn’t have had the same effect.

It’s important to highlight that, for our readers to understand Gaudi’s vision and references, we will be talking broadly about stories from the bible. And while not everyone who visits this church will be religious, the context will help you understand the meaning behind the construction. If you aren’t spiritual, just think of these citations as stories (or consider the real people who inspired those characters).

The Nativity Facade

To enter the Sagrada Familia these days, you’ll approach via the Nativity Facade. This was the only part of the church entirely designed by Gaudí. And he almost saw it finished as it was completed in 1935, just after his death. He was there almost daily overseeing the work, and it feels like the part of the church which is the most personal. The Nativity Facade has three entrances. One central and two lateral topped with four hollow bell towers, representing the four stripes of the Catalan flag. The Nativity facade faces the rising sun, as it represents the dawn of the life of Jesus Christ.

The three entrances on the Nativity facade are each dedicated to a theological virtue of the three members of the Holy Family; Hope, Charity and Faith. A portico is a triangular porch hanging over the church’s entrance. One of the most delightful little aspects of these entrances is the little details you might miss, so keep your eyes peeled.

One of these small details to notice when looking at the entire facade are the snowcaps carved into the stone. The snow is meant to look like it is melting off the tops of the hollows of the entrances. Gaudí used snow to remind the people of the festive Christmas season. So many aspects of Gaudí’s plans were drawn from historical architectural references. But others were meant to evoke a response for the common man. Something everyone can understand and evokes something within them.

Gaudi’s Gargoyles

Instead of gargoyles, which are so prevalent in neo-gothic architecture, you’ll find a different kind of creature which caps the various edges of the roofline on the Sagrada Familia. Gaudí chose to use reptiles and amphibians (like snails, frogs, chameleons and lizards.) These creatures crawl on the edges of the building. While gargoyles are mythical creatures, Gaudí chose to pick beasts from our world who are biblically associated with the lower ranks. Gaudi believed they served the same monstrous purpose as the gargoyles in Gothic churches. They are not decorative, but their open mouths are used to drain rainwater from the temple’s roof.

The Hope Portico

The Hope Portico, dedicated to Saint Joseph, is on the far left side of the facade. This portico depicts scenes of virtue in times of adversity. We’ll study this piece from the top of the entrance, continuing downwards, beginning with St. Joseph’s Pinnacle.

St. Joseph’s Pinnacle

St. Joseph’s Pinnacle is almost hard to make out. It’s so high up, and sculptures blend in with the rest of the stonework. The textures given to the exterior are designed to reflect the crags you find on Montserrat, the sacred mountain of Catalonia. Just below the climax of the Hope Portico, you’ll see the figure of Saint Joseph sitting inside a small boat. The boat is an important symbol. Saint Joseph helped navigate the Catholic church as the patriarch of the Holy Family.

On the ship’s helm are three emblematic objects; a dove, an anchor and a lantern. The dove symbolizes the holy spirit, the anchor signifies faith’s constant grounding, and the lamp implies the light the word of Jesus Christ provided to the faithful. It’s important to note that this carving of Saint Joseph is thought to resemble Gaudí himself. The sculptors decided after his untimely death to immortalize Gaudí in the church. Gaudí himself feels like a patriarchal figure to all those architects who would follow in his footsteps.

The Holy Marriage

Below the pinnacle, in the hollow of the top arch, we find a grouping of three people. This is the scene of the marriage of Saint Joseph to the Virgin Mary carried out by a high priest who stands in the centre. They kneel over a basket of roses that symbolize God’s love at work in the world. Blossoming below this sculptural group are luscious flowers reminiscent of those growing on the Nile banks. Egypt was where the holy family experienced so much fear and terror; eventually, they had to flee the country. But they fled not without hope, which is what this entrance is dedicated to remembering. Hanging amongst the flowers are stone-carved rosary beads. 59 beads surround most of the windows on the porticos. Another way in which Gaudí combined the physical act of prayer into his church.

The Tympanum

Above the doorway, in the Hope Portico, we have the tympanum, which contains scenes from Jesus’ childhood. These tender moments between the young Jesus make him much more human rather than godly. On the bottom right, we see the Holy Family with Mary and Joseph and an angel guide fleeing Egypt. In the centre, we see the child Jesus in his father’s arms. A single dove flies off into the distance below them. Amidst this scene of father and son is something which you might miss. A set of carpentry tools carved in stone. Jesus’ adolescence was spent being a carpenter’s apprentice. And it was lovely to see that human side of his life immortalized in stone.

Slaughter of the Innocents

On the right, we have one of the most violent scenes from the bible: the Slaughter of the Innocents. This display shows a Roman soldier tearing a child from their mother’s arms. Under the soldier’s feet are babies’ bodies who have already fallen to the soldier’s sword. Although this is hard to see, if you manage to look closely, you can see that the Roman soldier has six toes on one foot. A small detail but one denoting his monstrosity.

Although this is a sad scene, it’s an important historical moment. When hope was all that these people had to cling to survive. On this side, the edges of the entrance are formed into the shape of a chameleon. The chameleon is an animal that represents change, and change is what hope is based upon. The fact is that even in the darkest times, there will be light. Light is representative of change, and the turning of tides gives even the most lost hope.

The Charity Portico

The central and most crucial portico on the Nativity Facade is the Charity Portico. Jesus’ charitable nature was one of his most notable characteristics, yet this entrance is filled with scenes of the Virgin Mary. This reflects how those who nurture us pass on their core values and attributes. The textural treatment of this portico is slightly different than the others. The exterior is covered in design elements that resemble or call back to the stable in which Jesus was born. Animals, birds and various plants are hidden throughout the mass of ornamentations that swell over the pointed portico.

The Tree of Life

Again, starting from the top down, let’s first focus on the Tree of Life. The culminating part of this portico is capped with a polychrome-coated green cypress tree. Polychrome decorates architectural elements, like pottery or sculpture, in various colours. Gaudí originally intended for the entire Nativity facade to be polychromed. He believed that if every sculpture, face, plant and animal were painted, they would come to life in a much more realistic way. Unfortunately, the cost of this much exceeded the budget! And so, polychrome was used sparingly. But therein making where you see those colours that much more impactful.

Symbolism on the Tree

The cypress tree symbolizes eternity since it’s an evergreen plant and never loses its leaves. Covering the tree are 21 white doves that fly out of their nests and into the sky. On the top of the tree, like a Christmas Star, is the red and white symbol of the holy trinity. The Greek cross formed the base of this symbol. The Greek cross combines the letters’ alpha’ and ‘omega,’ which mean the beginning and the end. Atop the cross is the last white dove, its arms spread wide, resembling the shape of Jesus on the cross.

Two ladders are placed below the tree, representing our mortal desire to reach eternal life. Below the tree, you’ll see a pelican perched, her beak angeled toward two baby birds, ready to be fed. The pelican was once believed to be a symbol of the Eucharist as in ancient times, people thought the pelican opened its chest to feed its young, just like Christ offered up his own body to feed his disciples. Hidden beneath the young pelicans is a brightly coloured egg adorned with red and yellow glass. The egg is thought to represent either the birth of the universe or the symbol of Jesus’ resurrection.

Below the tree is a group of angels burning incense inside old vessels called ‘centers.’ Burning incense in the church is an ancient tradition representing the faithful’s prayers rising to heaven. The pinnacle’s stonework is covered in little bubbles, thought to represent the incense floating up toward the sky. It’s important to note that the angels here were actually sculpted by Gaudí himself.

The Crowning of Mary

Below the tree of life, we come to a small cave. Here we can see a little intimate scene of Jesus placing a copper crown atop the Virgin Mary’s head. Crowning her the Queen of Heaven on Earth. This was her reward for her ceaseless love for God and humanity. Despite what they had done to her beloved son. On the left, we see Saint Joseph there to witness the event. And on the right, we see the Holy Spirit represented as a man. The entire scene is set in front of one of the incredibly colourful stained glass rose windows. At certain times of the day, the glass seems to set the entire scene aglow with mystical light.

The Charity Vault

The vault in the Charity portico contains the scene of the Annunciation. We find the archangel Gabriel told Mary that she is the chosen one. Who will bring the son of God into this world? Surrounding this petite scene are the signs of the zodiac. And depictions of constellations across the sky. Just as they would have been on the night Jesus was born. Bands of rosary beads surround the scene. Hanging around the rosary are medallions carved in stone representing the ‘Miraculous Medals,’ which you find around rosary bracelets.

The Chorus of Angels

Above the Charity doorways, here is a chorus of angels. Each angel is a musician, playing popular instruments in religious settings. Instruments like the lute, the violin and the harp, the more common guitar, the bagpipes and the tambourine can all be found here. Once more, this was a way of the common fold being able to see themselves in the divine. Running up between the two sets of stained glass windows behind the angels is the multi-pointed star of Bethlehem. This was the star that shone in the sky to announce the birth of Jesus.

The Adorations

To the left of the double doorway, we can see sculptures of the Adoration of the Magi. And on the right, we have the Adorations of the Shepherds. Some scenes from the Nativity represent how Jesus’ arrival brought people from such disparate groups together. For me, this scene is especially poignant since I feel Gaudí achieved a similar reaction in the construction of this church. No matter if you are religious, spiritual or neither, this building still draws people from far and wide into its arms. And once they behold it for themselves, there is never a question of its outstanding cultural value.

The Monumental Columns

Three primary columns are located at the base of the church, each representing a member of the holy family. The one in the centre of the two charity doors is the Jesus’ Column, and the other two flanking the charity portico are dedicated to the Virgin Mary and Saint Joseph. On the very top of the central column is baby Jesus, being placed into a bassinet by his mother. His father looks on, as do an ox and mule, just like the Christmas carol. To the left of this scene is a small text inscription expressing “Gloria in Excelsis Deo,” a phrase spoken by the angels on the night Jesus was born.

Large palm leaves look like they’re supporting the group atop the column. Palm leaves are a symbol of victory in Roman culture, and the date fruits hanging from the leaves symbolize faith. Surrounding the column is a thick ribbon with inscriptions inlaid upon it. The form of ribbon almost looks like one side of a DNA strand. Fittingly, it is thought that the inscriptions on the fabric are Jesus’ genealogy dating back to Abraham. Halfway down the column, the stone is surrounded by dense iron mesh. If you peek through the mesh, you can make out the shape of the snake biting an apple, the symbol of original sin. The iron mesh traps the reptile from fleeing the garden and invading the pious world.

Carvings on the Column

Atop the two remaining columns flanking the sides of the Charity portico are a pair of angels playing long bronze trumpets announcing the birth of Jesus. The models for these sculptures were a group of military musicians who were good friends with Gaudi. The angels stand atop more palm leaves, covered in snow and dates. The centre of the columns is marked with an inscription, each inscribed with the names of those to whom they are dedicated to. At the bottom of the columns are carvings of a tortoise and a turtle, holding the entire weight of the column up. The turtle represents the land, and the tortoise the sea. Both of these animals are unchanging and, as such, are capable of being the foundation upon which this church is built.

At the bottom of the columns is the carving of a tortoise and, on the other, a turtle, holding the entire weight of the column up. The turtle represents the land, and the tortoise the sea. Both of these animals are unchanging and, as such, are capable of being the foundation upon which this church is built.

Faith Portico

The last of the tree porticos is on the far right-hand side, called the Faith Portico. This portico is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, yet most of the scenes here actually feature her son when he was a young boy and his life during adolescence.

While centred around Jesus, these scenes show Mary’s faith in God. Imagine being a mother and seeing your son grow up so innocent and kind, all the while knowing he will die for the sins of humanity, and you’ll be the one to bury him. It takes a strong woman to keep faith in this knowledge, and yet she persevered and, not only that, made sure to be the best mother she could be against all the odds. I think everyone can take something from this story into their own lives at times when they feel they perhaps have lost faith in themselves or the direction their lives are going.

Blessed Virgin’s Pinnacle

At the very top of the portico is the Blessed Virgin’s Pinnacle. The head of the pinnacle is capped with ears of wheat springing forth. These symbolize the bread Jesus shares with his disciples in the Last Supper. Below, in a small hollow cave, is a carving of a hand with an open eye in the centre. This is the symbol of divine providence, which represents God, who can see all and even perhaps influence the destiny of humankind. Vines and grapes intertwine all over this pinnacle, another symbolic element of the Last Supper.

In the centre of these vines is the figure of the Virgin Mary, her hands crossed over her chest and head leaning back, utter vulnerability and trust emitting through her language. Mary stands upon a three-pointed lamp, representing the light of the holy trinity. Below her figure, we can see Saint Joseph’s anagram, another little detail tieing these two people together consistently through the design, even when they are not physically together.

Jesus in Simon’s Arms

In the hollow at the top of the portico is Jesus in Simon’s arms in the temple of Jerusalem. Many parents would bring their children to the temple to be blessed. A bowl is at the bottom of the scene, and within it are two birds. But these are not doves as we’ve seen before, but are pigeons. Every parent needed to bring a sacrifice to the temple for their child to be blessed. Most people would bring a lamb to display wealth, but as Mary and Joseph were poor, they could only afford to bring two meagre pigeons.

Central Scene on the Faith Portico

Under the vault on the Faith portico is a beautiful rose window made up of multicoloured glass. Looking up from underneath the vault is the figure of Jesus seated in a chair, his hands raised towards the sky. On his left side is Saint John the Baptist. On the right is Saint Zachariah. These two scholars were some of Jesus’ best teachers and would shape how he would preach. Despite being his elders, they are seen here looking at Jesus with admiration and wonder. Below the scholars, right above the doorway, is the symbol of the heart of Jesus, surrounded by thorns and covered in bees who feast on the blood. A morbid foreshadowing of things to come.

On the left-hand side of the doorway, we can see the scene of the visitation of the Virgin Mary. Here we have Mary, pregnant with baby Jesus, visiting her cousin who at the same time was pregnant with the would-be Saint John the Baptist. In the scene on the right, we find Jesus as a young carpenter at his work table. In front of him are the figures of Mary and Joseph. Their faces are that of surprise, anguish and denial as they learn of their son’s fate for the first time. But Jesus remains unphased, working quietly on his carpentry, his posture slightly slumped, mirroring a more human figure who knows not yet of his divine destiny.

The Spires and Towers

Gaudi desired to make the Sagrada Familiar as the tallest building in Barcelona. He was inspired by stories of architects in medieval times who built their churches as the central figure in the city. These churches needed to be tall as they were often used as meeting points, a guiding light to those travelling into town. Their bell towers signal the beginning of the workday or even warn people of fires, earthquakes or other devastating events. Gaudi wanted to implement this same idea, but just one tower wouldn’t suffice. He decided to far and away exceed anything created for basilicas before.

Gaudi’s design called for eighteen spires, reaching up toward the heavens. The hollow and hole-filled design of the spires makes them look like a sort of beehive or anthill, as the stone’s colour so closely resembles the earth. But the hollow design was actually a form of lanterning, an architectural element that illuminates the church while also giving it enormous height and grandeur.

The Spires

The spires are representative, in ascending order of elevation, of the Twelve Apostles, the Virgin Mary, the four Evangelists and, tallest of all, Jesus Christ. The Evangelists’ spires were designed to be topped by sculptures of their corresponding symbols. A bull for Saint Luke, symbolizing sacrifice, service and strength. An angel stands for Saint Matthew, who represents Jesus’ human Incarnation, who, upon his death, became divine. An eagle sets off to soar in the representation of Saint John, as the eagle symbolizes a figure of the sky and the fact that Christians should look to their eternal fate instead of their mortal one. And finally, we have Saint Mark represented by a lion. Saint Mark’s beautiful gospels were thought to be the “voice of the one who cries in the wilderness,” like the roar of a lion.

Atop each of the spires along the perimeter of the church, over top of the cloisters, are a set of pinnacles. These are in various shapes, abstractions of elements of the bishop’s attire, such as the mitre, the ring, the cross and the staff. They are all decorated in rich tones of Murano glass which is much stronger than ceramics, so they can withstand the elements up high.

Jesus and Mary Towers

The Virgin Mary tower will be the widest right over the high altar. Her tower is currently finished, but its shape has already been a form of a cathedral. Her tower, once completed, will be crowned by the ‘morning star.’ This star is the guiding light that travellers use to find their way even in darkness, and the star is still visible even when the sun has risen at dawn.

The interior of her tower is made up of a large hyperboloid skylight which brings natural light into the presbytery. The hyperboloid will be covered in white tiles, the colour of purity, looking like a divine cyclone sucking in the light from above. The largest and tallest of the towers, the Jesus Christ Tower, has yet to be built, but once completed will be the most impressive of them all, reaching a height of 172.5 meters, capped with a Gaudí-style four-armed cross. The tower’s interior will act as a giant lantern since Gaudi wanted this part of the church to reflect the phrase Jesus spoke, “I am the light of the world.”

The Cimborio

At the top of the spires, you’ll find elaborately coloured and designed cimborio. A cimborio is a dome or a cupola from traditional Spanish architecture. Gaudi’s cimborio is more sculptural, with images of plants decorating the surface, specifically those plants connected to the Christian faith. We see ears of corn, wheat, cedar and lavender all swirling around. Gaudi also chose plants native to the Mediterranean or that once grew on the site where the church was built. Gaudi used his technique of trencadis cladding to ensure the tops were as colourful as possible so you could see them across the sky from all over town.

The Cloisters

As you enter the Nativity facade, you pass through those large doors and enter the cloisters surrounding the entire church. A traditional cloister was first used in monasteries and was meant “enclosure.” It was a covered walkway for the monks to use as a space of private contemplation. When cloisters were incorporated into cathedrals, they would run along one side of the church.

Gaudi used his cloisters in a revolutionary way; instead of just placing them on one side of the church, he wrapped them around the entirety of the Basilica. This was his solution to create separation or barrier between the church’s interior and the loud and obnoxious outside world. This resulted in a quieter interior and an almost zen-like atmosphere. A conventional monastery cloister would surround a garden. Because the interior here would be the church’s apse, Gaudi made sure that his interior still felt like a garden, like the of Eden. A mythical forest in the centre of town.

Cloisters and Light

Gaudi wanted to find a way to bring natural light into the interior of the church even though there were no windows that faced directly outside the apse. He did this through his ingenious redesign of the cloister windows. Gaudi went through two different variations in his light experiments. Both of which are still present to this day. The first was designed in 1890 and was based on the three ogival modules inspired by traditional Gothic architecture.

The secondary design done in 1919 was a more modern interpretation of Gaudi’s which looked less like Gothic art and was more inspired by nature. These circular windows, stacked in a triangular pyramid, looked like a honeycomb and fit better with the rest of the naturalist design across the temple. The cloisters also served another purpose. By having this area around the entirety of the church, Gaudi made it so that these galleries could be an area where people could move throughout the church quickly without interrupting the worship that was taking place inside.

The Bronze floral Doors

To enter the church, we must head back to the Charity portico and walk through the archway. The doors you pass on your way are made from polychrome bronze and designed by various plant species and covers and are ed in highly realistic insects. The paintwork on these doors is breathtaking and an introduction to the colours you’ll be wowed with inside.

The Rosary Portal

You’ll first pass through the Rosary Portal to enter the church’s interior. This incredible doorway is called the door of Our Lady of the Rosary. In the tympanum above the doorway is the sculpture of the Virgin Mary holding a crowed baby Jesus. Mary also wears a crown, as she is the Queen of Heaven on Earth, but she is also symbolically crowned with an archway of roses on the portal above her. Since the rose is the symbol of purity is almost always hidden somewhere in depictions of the Virgin Mary.

Above this doorway is a cupola lantern which perfectly lets in a ray of light that highlights Mary’s face. This effect is almost too beautiful, and if you didn’t know the cupola was there, it takes on looks heavenly side of the doorways are various sculptures of characters from the old testament.

On the bottom of the arches around the door are scenes dedicated to the theme of temptation. We see the temptation of woman, the death of Judas and the temptation of man. The temptation of man is the most surprising as it is symbolized by a fish-like devil offering a bomb to man. While you might not always associate the devil with bombs, this scene was of particular significance to the people of Barcelona. Bombs were heavily used during the Spanish civil war, and this particular artist was inspired to make this alteration after the bombing of Barcelona’s Liceo Theatre in 1893.

The Interior Apse

The floorplan of the Sagrada Familia is designed to replicate the traditional Latin cross, but Gaudi’s floorplan featured five naves, a large central one and four lateral naves. He also took it upon himself to widen the naves, therein creating an unparalleled vastness of space, which feels impossible to have in such a lavish interior. But with all this space, there had to be structure. Some way to keep the building from falling down without sacrificing that ethereal atmosphere.

The Arborescent Columns

The interior of the church was meant to resemble a spiritual forest. Gaudi wanted it to feel like a retreat into nature. Gothic churches were revolutionary in creating openness and space; they wanted the interior to feel light and the high ceilings as if they were reaching up toward the heavens. Gaudi once more wanted to take this to the next level. He wanted to incorporate huge stained glass windows on either side, which meant they could not be load-bearing, so that load had to be carried elsewhere.

Gaudi researched for years to develop this new concept he called the ‘Arborescent Columns.’ Inspired by the strength and beauty of large trees, the columns tilt slightly about their height so they can withstand the roof load. They also split off in two directions, like the branches of a tree and also like a flying buttress to better support the vaults. At any time, you expect to see birds flying from branch to branch, making a nest for themselves. And what better place to do it?!

36 Tree Columns

There are 36 columns in total with different heights and widths. The variation of these sizes makes them seem more unique and less man-made. Four materials were used to create the columns; porphyry, basalt, granite and Montjuic stone. The Porphyry columns support the vaults over the crossing and are the widest in diameter. They are the red-coloured columns which contain the Evangelists’ lights. The basalt columns have ten sides and are one of the most durable materials. The granite columns are blueish-grey in colour and are only eight-sided. The final columns are made from Montjuic stone and are the thinnest.

The Vaults

Gaudi combined classical Gothic architecture and Catalan art to create these star-like vaults on the roof, which light could easily pass through. The stars are formed by combining concave and convex hyperboloid shapes, which are systems used to disperse light and spread out the roof load of the stars also closely resemble the form of palm leaves, a powerful symbol in Christianity. Each vault centre is filled with a light diffuser decorated with colourful stained glass in various Christian symbols.

Natural Light

Light is one of the strongest symbols of faith in Christianity, so it was crucial to Gaudi to bring as much natural light as possible, the light of God, into the Basilica. Gaudi developed a new way of creating stained glass, comprised of three panes resulting in a mixture of tones and colours to cast a magical glow into the nave. The leading artist who created these windows was Vila-Grau. Vila-Grau used curved shapes to create abstract forms and ensured that the warm and cool tones were kept separate, resulting in this consistent light flow.

The Evangelist Capitals

Four Porphyry columns are capped with the Evangelists’ symbols, two on each side of the transept. The capitals are decorated with tetramorphs, the four angelic beings from Babylonian symbolism, which describe the vision of the Hebrew Prophet Ezekiel of the Evangelists. “As for the likeness of their faces, they four had the face of a man, and the face of a lion, on the right side: and they four had the face of an ox on the left side; they four also had the face of an eagle.” These capitals are lit from within to ensure they are always illuminated even when there isn’t any natural light.

The High Altar

When you enter the church, before looking up (although I know that’s really hard), take a look at the flooring. The shimmery golden tiles are accented with two thick red lines. One of the lines symbolizes the ‘Path of Humanity,’ which runs from the Glory facade to the apse, and the ‘Path of Jesus Christ,’ which runs from the Nativity to the Passion facade. Where the two lines meet is where we find the high altar. The meeting of the divine and the human in one place here inside the church. The high altar has a ceiling two meters taller than the rest of the nave to give it that little extra touch of gravitas.

Over the high altar, we find the incredible sculptural masterpiece called a baldachin. A baldachin is a large canopy in a heptagon shape with seven edges, traditionally placed over an altar. These sever corners represent the seven gifts of the Holy Spirit; wisdom, understanding, counsel, fortitude, knowledge, piety and fear of the Lord. Fifty little hanging lights illuminate the rim of the canopy. Around the rim springs grape vines and wheat, the symbols of the Eucharist. A ribbon around the baldachin writes out the Prayer of Glory in back-lit red and Gaudí-style lettering.

Saint Joseph Transept

Located on the Nativity side of the church is the Saint Joseph Transept, presided over by a large sculpture of Joseph himself. Joseph stands there prominently with a sceptre of lilies in his hand. Lilies represent his holiness and his celibate marriage to the Blessed Virgin. The walkway above the transept is made of dozens of Roman columns and is an easy way for the clergy to get around the church without interrupting the service. The stained glass windows featured on this wall are made of cool tones, and the morning light pours through this portion of the church.

One interesting aspect of studying stained glass is that the colours become denser and denser as we descend from the top down, letting in less and less light. This is so that the light is the brightest at the top, where you’ll find the divine, and lower to the ground, where we have humanity and slightly less light, creating a perfect space for meditation and reflection.

On the opposite side, facing the Passion Facade, is the Virgin Mary Transept. In the centre is the figure of the Virgin Mary under a simplistic, geometric star-shaped vault. Behind her is a beautiful example of abstract stained glass made by Joan Vila-Grau entitled ‘The Resurrection.’ This side faces the setting sun and is coloured with entirely warm tones, warm tones which make the heart feel full and content, expressing hope upon Jesus’ Resurrection.

The Apsidal Chapels

The apse has seven chapels dedicated to the seven gospels of Saint Joseph. These chapels are lit from above and by impressive stained glass windows. In between these panels are the adorable carving of angel heads peeking out from the walls.

The Great Doorway

This entrance, called the Great Doorway, will eventually be the main entrance into the church once the Glory facade is finished construction. The two solid bronze doors will open out into the facade, weighing over two thousand kilos! The designer of these doors is the same one who made the Passion Facade, Josep Maria Subirachs. The doorways are inscribed with the words “Give us this day our daily bread” in fifty different languages. Above the door is the abstracted sculpture of Saint Geroge, the patron saint of Catalonia.

The Choir Galleries

Above the nave is a separate space that houses the choir during church services. This area can hold over 1000 singers since Gaudi wanted their voices to fill this enormous temple. Gaudi thought the importance of acoustics in the building to be of the utmost importance as he loved music so much. It was one of the few ways he could unwind and relax. The hyperbolic vaulting he used throughout the church was made to reverberate the sound throughout the church in a harmonious way and provide light.

The Organ

The large pipe organ looks almost holographic in certain lights and has over 1,492 pipes. And what a sound it makes when played. Gaudi wanted this organ and the music of God it created to fill the nave like the ocean. Washing across the worshippers and visitors alike.

Winding Staircase

Gaudi didn’t ever want to break up the natural movement of the Basilica. No straight set of stairs would be acceptable. So Gaudi created these sets of winding staircases which the clergy could use to access the upper levels. The staircases are almost completely open, with some circular cutouts, similar to those in the cloisters, to ensure they are perfectly lit without artificial light.

The Crypt

As you walk along the back of the nave, behind the altar, be sure to look down and see if you can peek into the small peepholes which open up into the crypt. Head down to see the interior of this hidden part of the church. The crypt, located under the nave and high altar, holds 12 chapels. The roof of the crypt is supported by 22 ribbed cross vaults, each decorated with shimmering keystones. Some of the keystones are adorned with scenes from the bible. The central keystone with the gold-leafed carving of Mary’s Annunciation is the most impressive. The bright gold brings the smallest details to life, making this image shine like a star underground.

Chapel of Our Lady of Mount Carmel

You’ll find the Chapel of Our Lady of Mount Carmel inside the crypt. This chapel is of particular significance since it is where you’ll find Gaudi’s final resting place. Located on the far left-hand side of the front wall, his tomb is presided over by the Lady of Mount Carmel. Gaudi is laid to rest under a simple, jet-black tombstone.

Gaudi made it his mission to bring natural light into the otherwise darkened crypts. And he did so through those small holes in the vaults which bring light in from the nave. He also made sure to include a lot of vibrant stained glass. This created a feeling of lightness and brightness despite being underground. It is unlike any other crypt I’ve visited around the world. The stained glass within the crypt is decorated with images of angels, another interesting juxtaposition for a crypt since angels are generally found in the sky, whereas these ones are found buried under the foundation.

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The Passion Facade

The final portion of the tour of the church is the Passion Facade. This facade is located on the side of the building where the sun sets. The darkness reflects the ultimate sacrifice and death Jesus would incur. Compared with the ornate, natural forms of the Nativity Facade, the Passion Facade is gloomy, stark and restrained. Gaudi made sketches for this part of the church when he fell ill with a terrible sickness and almost passed away. This illness was the closest to death Gaudi would ever come since his eventual death would sneak up on him. During this sickness, he was consumed with fear. And he poured all these emotions into the design of this part of the temple.

While Gaudi died long before this part of the church began construction, architect Josep Maria Subirachs took up his mantle and made it his mission to create precisely what Gaudi had envisioned. Subirach’s figures are inspired by expressionism, in contrast to the realistic figures on the Nativity portal. There are over 100 figures depicted, grouped into 13 different scenes. They rise upwards in an S-shape, starting, in chronological order, with the last Supper and ending in the crucifixion.

Capping the facade is the pyramid-shaped pediment. This pediment is formed with eighteen bone-shaped pillars, which symbolize those who died. The columns of the Passion Facade reach out towards the street. Unlike a regular column which just goes straight up, they are placed at an angle. Seemingly drawing the viewer in from the outside.

Last Supper

In the bottom left corner, we see Subirachs’ interpretation of Jesus in the Garden of Gethsemane during the Last Supper. All the faces we see here are gaunt and abstract. They seem less human, and each one appears to have an expression of sadness on their face. Jesus turns to his disciples to explain what will happen as Judas is off to the side, accepting the blood money for betraying his friend.

The Kiss of Judas

We then move to the scene where Juda kisses Jesus, indicating he is the man whom the Roman soldiers must arrest. In the bottom right corner of this scene, you’ll see the snarling face of a snake. The snake represents the devil as this reptile is regarded as one of the lowest terrestrial animals, closest to the devil’s lair. Besides the two men is a set of numbers on a grid called the ‘magic square.’ The magic square features a collection of numbers which, when added either along one row, one column or diagonally across, always add up the same number. In this case, the number is 33. 33 is the age at which it is thought that Jesus Christ died; it also contains the number 3 twice, which is the symbol of the holy trinity.

The Flagellation Column

On the main level, in the centre, we have the Flagellation Column. Bringing this scene almost at eye level with the visitors is a critical choice and, once more, brings humanity back to this otherwise godlike man. Everywhere else where Jesus is depicted, he is within a group, but here he is totally alone. An interesting detail is the three steps which lead up to the column, symbolizing the three days between Jesus’ crucifixion and the resurrection. Subirach used travertine marble to carve the column, the same stone used in all the buildings in ancient Rome.

The Bronze Doors

Three broad sets of bronze doors are set behind and on either side of the Flagellation Column. On the right, we have the Gethsemane door; in the centre is the Gospel door and on the left is the Coronation of Thorns. The main entrance used today into the church is through the Gospel door. This door contains thousands of raised letters with passages from various texts relating to the last days of Jesus’ life.

The Gethsemane door looks almost like a sketchbook. It combines text and images relating to the prayers Jesus’ made in the Garden of Gethsemane, pleading for God to change his mind and save his mortal life. The Coronation of Thorn’s door has two main scenes. One of the scenes depicts the soldiers presenting Jesus to Herod and Pontius Pilate and being crowned with thorns. The top scene is of the humiliation of the soldiers who tortured Jesus on the way to the cross.

The Denial of Peter & Ecce Homo and the Trial of Jesus

This sculpture depicts the three times Peter denied he knew Jesus, represented by three women. He wears a large sheet, a symbol of cowardice. In the next scene, we see Pilate presenting Jesus to the people. In the final scene, we see Pilate washing his hands as he announces to the crowd, “I am innocent of this man’s blood; see you to it.”

The Three Mary’s and Simon Cyrene

In the next vignette, we see the three Marys; The Virgin Mary, Mary Magdelene and Mary of Cleophas. On the ground is the fallen form of Jesus, and the man carrying the cross is actually Simon Cyrene, who helped Jesus take the cross to the sight of the crucifixion. It is thought that this man showed sympathy for Jesus as he walked, so the soldiers forced Cyrene to carry the cross, another example of the soldier’s cruelty. Now, Simon Cyrene is considered the patron saint of passersby.

Veronica and the Evangelist

Over the Gospel door, we find the scene where Jesus falls again. A woman named Veronica bends down to brush the blood off his face with a cloth, and when she removes it, the face of the Messiah is imprinted on it. The carving of Jesus’ face on the cloth is masterfully done, and no matter where the viewers go, Jesus’ eyes seem to follow. To the left of the group, you’ll see the legionnaires whose armour was made in the shape of Gaudi’s famous chimneys from Casa Milá, a little reference to Gaudi’s history.

Saint Longinus

The figure to the right of Veronica is a Roman soldier on horseback. This is Saint Longinus, who was a Roman general that stuck a spear into Jesus. Legend has it that Longinus was half blind, but when he speared Jesus, a drop of blood spurted into his eyes, and they were healed. Upon this miraculous healing, Longinus repented of his sins and converted to Christianity.

Soldiers Player Dice

We have a small group of Roman soldiers to the left of the crucifixion scene. They can be seen playing a dice game. The victor of this game would win Jesus Christ’s clothing and possessions. A heartless moment but another depiction of the cruelty of man.

The Crucifixion

The top of the facade is dominated by the form of Jesus Christ crucified on the cross. He is tied to a cross composed of two iron beams. The iron beam meets to form the shape of an “I.” This is thought to recall “INRI,” which in Latin stands for ‘Iesus Nazarenus Rex Iudaeorum’ meaning ‘Jesus of Nazareth, King of the Jews, something which they nailed over Jesus on the cross as he lay dying. At his feet is the sobbing form of Mary Magdalene, while the Virgin Mary stands to the side, her face in her hands, consoled by St. John. At the base of the cross, we can make out a skull symbolizing Jesus’ final death. In the upper right corner, we can make out a full moon, as it is said that the night he died, there was a full moon.

The Burial

To the right of the Crucifixion scene, we have the burial of Christ. In this sculpture, we see Joseph of Arimathea and Nicodemus preparing and wrapping Jesus’ body to make it ready for the tomb. The image of Nicodemus is actually a self-portrait of the sculptor Subirachs. In the background is the Virgin Mary with an egg on her head, symbolizing the resurrection.

The Passion Vaults

Under the vaults of the Passion’s portico, when you look up, you’ll see a torn cloth hanging in front of a brightly coloured mosaic. The enormous torn fabric acts almost as a type of baldachin hanging beneath the cross. In the Temple of Jerusalem, there was always a large cloth that separated the holier areas of the temple from the ordinary people. At the very moment of Jesus’ death, it was said that this cloth split in two, bringing together common people and God as one. The glasswork is Venetian and contains texts and imagery relating to the resurrection. Unlike the rest of the facade, which is bleak and monotonous, this hidden bright spot is representative of the hope that Jesus’ resurrection gave the people, always present but hiding in the darkness.

The Glory Facade

The Glory facade is the one part of the church which has not begun construction. This side faces the midday sun when the sun is the brightest and therefore exemplifies the idea of Glory and Hope. The design of the Glory facade is made up of a series of large lanterns and a grouping of fluffy white clouds. The three types of clouds represent the Holy Trinity: the Father, Son and Holy Spirit, each inscribed with words of prayer. By entering this doorway, worshippers will have a sense of movement through the earthly plain into the divine heavens.

The Schoolhouse

Outside the Passion, the facade is a small building, a recreation of the 1909 original, which once served as the children’s schoolhouse. During the Basilica’s construction, there were so many workers that they needed a dedicated school to cater to their children. Gaudi made it his mission to educate these kids and create a beautiful place for them to do it. You can enter the old schoolhouse, study the Catalan vaulting technique he employed here, and study the classroom’s various details. You can even see some of the things the children studied during their time here.

The Gaudi Museum

Located in the basement of the cathedral is the Antoni Gaudi Workshop and Museum. Although many of the original documents and plans were destroyed when a bomb went off during the Civil War, this newly created space is where the city has taken it upon itself to conserve, restore and put on display pieces of the history of the construction of this church. You can find drawings, period photographs, ceremonial furniture and several scale model copies of the originals. There is also a model of the original workshop where Gaudi would spend all this time.

If you’ve made it all the way through, I commend you and know that I appreciate the time you took to understand the immense amount of history, art and cultural values instilled in this incredible temple. I genuinely wish I could spend every day here, and I hope your time visiting this space is just as magical as mine was.

Have you been here before? What was your favourite thing to see? If you’re on your way, let me know what you’re looking forward to the most.

Happy Travel Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Insider’s Self-Guided Tour of Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia in Barcelona first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Mistakes NOT to Make in Barcelona

1. #1 Don't Dine along La Rambla
2. #2 Don't Forget to make Bookings in Advance
3. #3 Don't Pay to See the Monument Zone inside Park Güell
4. #4 Don't Forget to Be Aware of Pickpockets
5. #5 Don't ONLY Drink Sangria
6. #6 Don't Visit Girona on a Bus Tour
7. #7 Don't Spend a Beach Day on La Barceloneta
8. #8 Don't take a Hop-on, Hop-off Bus
9. #9 Don't Stick to Visiting only Gaudí Designs
10. #10 Don't Stop for the Street Artists along La Rambla

#1 Don’t Dine along La Rambla

La Rambla is one of the busiest streets in Barcelona and is notorious for being full of tourist traps. Mainly regarding restaurants. So many establishments along this wealthy avenue charge insanely high prices. And you are getting less than mediocre food, most of which aren’t even cooked authentically. Their paellas are reheated and the “fresh” fish is often from frozen. Skip eating at any place with an English menu out front or even worse…a talking head inside a paella.

Instead, Head down to La Boqueria Market

La Boqueria Market is an excellent alternative to the restaurants on La Rambla. Wander the market and explore the different small kiosks. Pick and choose the perfect mixture of snacks and ingredients for a little picnic. Prices are reasonable, and the food is as fresh as can be! You can take your goodies over to the scenic Plaça Reial, just six minutes down the road. This gorgeous square is the best place to sit and enjoy your food with a view.

#2 Don’t Forget to make Bookings in Advance

Barcelona, especially during the busy season, is one of Europe’s most popular tourist destinations. And for a good reason! There are so many amazing architectural buildings to visit, great food to eat and incredible culture to experience. But you’ll want to book the reservations in advance to see some of these places or eat at a famed restaurant. Places like the Sagrada Família have really long lineups. Sometimes, it takes over an hour to get inside. Other tours, like the Palau de Musica, sometimes get totally booked up. Without booking far in advance, you might miss your chance to see these places at all.

Instead, Plan Out your Must-Sees

I would advise booking your reservations as soon as you book your flights. But be sure not to overschedule your vacation. Secure those all-important must-see attractions, but leave the rest of your day open around that one booking. That way, you will see what you’ve dreamed of but can still come across new discoveries you didn’t plan on.

#3 Don’t Pay to See the Monument Zone inside Park Güell

Now, before you get up in arms, don’t worry! I’m not telling you to skip one of the most amazing parts of Barcelona! Park Güell was created by the famous Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí. The park is one of the most imaginative and symbolic works of art of the Catalan’ modernism‘ movement. Tickets to enter the monument zone, which contains the most stunning pieces of Gaudi’s architecture, cost 10 euros. And while that’s not a lot, the lineup to get inside can be staggering long! Even with a timed ticket to enter, you’ll need to arrive much earlier to wait in line during busy times of the year. So, if you’re pressed for time and money, you can skip the paid entry to the monument zone.

Instead, Visit the Forested Area for FREE

Park Güell is divided into two zones; the Monumental Zone (paid entry) and the Forest Zone. The forest area is adjacent to the monumental zone and occupies 8 more hectares. This area actually accounts for 90% of the park’s woodland. Although you might not be able to see Gaudi’s ceramic creations, there are plenty of FREE opportunities to see Gaudi’s architecture around the city. 

Instead, spend the morning wandering around exploring the masterful landscaping, gorgeous walking trails and lush gardens. You’ll be able to find vibrant exotic flora, local fauna and some unimaginable views. If you get here as the sun rises, you’re in for a real treat! Since Park Guell is located high up and north of the city, youy get the most beautiful picturesque view across Barcelon from this vantage pointa.

#4 Don’t Forget to Be Aware of Pickpockets

Barcelona has a huge petty crime problem. Pickpocketing is very common. There are so many stories of people putting their bags down for a second, and when they look back, it’s gone. Since pickpocketing is usually “theft under a thousand,” often the criminals will only have to pay a small fine. And that’s if they even get caught at all. But this shouldn’t prevent you from having a great time in this city.

Instead, Keep your wits about you and keep everything Secure

Being aware is the key! If you prepare for it accordingly, you can go smoothly about your travels without worry. I had a tiny little lock on my knapsack I used to secure the closure. This way, I knew even when I didn’t pay too much attention to who was behind me, there was no way of slipping a hand inside. This meant I didn’t even worry about the subways or busy streets. Most pickpockets are just looking for a quick and easy theft. They don’t want to go to the trouble of tearing your bag off you. So, keeping things locked up is the best way to keep yourself safe. Knapsacks can also be worn in front to keep an eye on them.

Make sure your passports are locked up in your hotels. While I don’t love the look of a money belt, I do often use those money necklaces to keep small bills and loose change close at hand. But out of the public eye.

#5 Don’t ONLY Drink Sangria

While I would never say you should avoid Sangri altogether, there are way better things to drink here. Some Catalans might turn their nose up at the thought of drinking Sangria in Barcelona. This is because it’s not traditionally a Catalan beverage. But for those travellers who might not be visiting any other part of Spain, this might be their only chance to sample real Sangria. So drink it if you must. But know that it will usually be subpar wine and soda, and there are much better local drinks to try.

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Instead, Try out the Catalan specialty, Cava!

Cava is Catalonian sparkling wine. It’s sweet, tart and refreshing! There are so many different regions of the Catalonian cava to explore, each with its own distinct flavour profile. Ask your server for their recommendations I loved seeing the response this gets since locals are very passionate about their Cava and adore seeing tourists asking for something other than Sangria.

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#6 Don’t Visit Girona on a Bus Tour

Girona is one of the most magical historical towns to see and the best day trips from Barcelona. Girona is best known for its medieval architecture, walled Old Quarter and the Roman fortress. Many people will visit Girona on a bus tour, which usually also stops at a few other places along the way. This means you’ll be rushed through the city and won’t have the time to explore at your own pace and focus on the things that matter to you.

Instead, Go by Public Transit

Many people don’t know just how easy it is to visit Girona by public transport. The AVE high-speed trains run from Barcelona to Girona in under 40 minutes and for less than 10 euros! Trains run multiple times throughout the day, making it easy for you to escape the city and head out into the medieval countryside in under an hour. This way, you can stop into shops, wander the alleys, explore the tiny yet sentimental museums, sit by the riverside and just relax.

#7 Don’t Spend a Beach Day on La Barceloneta

La Barceloneta is Barcelona’s most famous sandy beach. And while its close proximity might make a beach day a tempting proposal for many travellers, the reality of this spot is less than appealing. La Barceloneta is full of tourists, teaming with pickpockets, tourist traps and overpriced food and beverage. Overall, it’s a waste of time to make your way down here and then have a stressful time while trying to relax.

Instead, Head to Costa Brava

Catalonia itself has some fantastic beaches just a few hours away from Barcelona. If you take the train to the beach village of Costa Brava, you’ll have the chance to visit this quaint seaside village but also dive into one of the most stunning beaches with beautiful vistas in all of Catalonia. There are some incredible small bays to explore and discover, and the crystal blue waters are some of the most impressive anywhere around the world. Costa Brava can be reached by train in under two and a half hours, or if you can have a car, you’re in for a fantastic journey on the road to the beach with so many different places on the way to stop and enjoy the scenery.

If you’re not looking to travel that far away, consider heading to the Playa de Bogatell. Playa de Bogatell, also known as Bogatell Beach, is one of Barcelona’s popular urban beaches, situated in the city’s Poblenou neighbourhood near the Port Olímpic area. The water is crystal clear, and the fact that it isn’t right in the center of the tourist quarter means you’ll find prices at the beach bars aren’t quite as high as in the Barceloneta.

#8 Don’t take a Hop-on, Hop-off Bus

Although a bus tour may be a good way to get an overview of the city, there is a lot you miss out on. Your guide is a pair of headphones that can’t answer questions or point out any of the good bars or restaurants you should visit. Nor can the bus take you through the back streets of the city, where you find Barcelona’s hidden gems and real history. On the bus, you see, rather than feel the city, you become acquainted with it, rather than friends.

Instead, Take A Buena Vista Bike Tour

On a Buena Vista Bike Tour, the guide is a local who knows the city backwards and can not only tell you all about Barcelona and its history but can answer all the oddball questions you may have, like what time people go to bed in Barcelona? It’s like having a friend show you around the city. The Buena Vista Tours are all made up of small groups, so it’s a friendly, laid-back experience where everybody gets to know each other – some tours even include a picnic on the beach. What’s more, this is pedal power – no emissions. Buena Vista also specializes in private tours, so if you are a small group or a family, they can customize a tour to suit you.

#9 Don’t Stick to Visiting only Gaudí Designs

While I will admit that Gaudí’s influence over the design and atmosphere of the city is undebatable, he was not the ONLY architect who helped shape the artistic and creative nature of Barcelona. In creating the ‘Modernisme,’ Gaudi, along with several other influential artists, worked together to create this unique cultural movement which makes Barcelona the artistic landmark city it is today.

Instead, Learn about other Modernisme Artists

Domènech I Montaner is another artist who really helped shape the direction of modernism, and his work best works to check out in Barcelona are the Hospital de Sant Pau and the Palau de la Música Catalana. Casa Amatller, located right beside Gaudi’s Casa Batllo, is often mistaken for being by Gaudi, but it was designed by Puig I Cadafalch, another influential architect. 

If you’re interested in learning more about Modernism’s art, design, and architecture, I can’t recommend the Museu del Modernisme Català more! Here, you can peruse some incredible pieces from the Modernisme era, and although it’s a smaller collection, it feels like it perfectly sums up what Modernism is all about, and you really get a great sense of what they were trying to achieve in Catalonia through this artistic endeavour.

#10 Don’t Stop for the Street Artists along La Rambla

Although La Rambla is one of the most famous streets in the world, and there are some gems to be found along the way, there is also a lot of cheesy, touristy tat that comes along with popularity. One of which is the street performers who cruise this strip. No matter the time of day, it seems as if this classical street is littered from end to end with Spidermen slinging fake webs for crowds or shoddily painted gold “mannequins” trying to attract attention.

Some tourists take a picture with them just for fun, and they are often forced quite aggressively into paying for the “privilege.” Most of the time, I think these are easily avoided by not engaging at all, but it’s frustrating to see them take up so much attention away from the beautiful architecture around them.

Instead, Go on a Street Art Tour

Instead of paying attention to these tacky “street artists,” pay attention to the street ART! Barcelona has always been a haven for creatives, which is still true today. The Bohemians have taken to the streets in Barcelona, and there is so much incredible art to be found on doorways and in alleys, hidden just steps away from huge tourist attractions.

One of the best ways to see these works of art and get the story behind them is on a guided tour from a company like Barcelona Street Style. It’s one of the most unique tour options in the city, and the people guiding the tour are so passionate about the art that it makes a difference in how you approach the designs.

Hopefully, with these tips, your travels around Barcelona will go off without a hitch!

Happy Travel Adventurer!

The post 10 Tourist Mistakes NOT To Make in Barcelona first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Catalan 'Modernism'
2. Access
3. Concert Tickets or Guided Tour
4. The Facade
5. Palau Square
6. Lluís Millet Grand Staircase
7. Lluís Millet Hall
8. Lluís Millet Balcony
9. Concert Hall
10. Stained-Glass Ceiling
11. The Stage Muses
12. The Doric Column Scenes
13. The Pegasus’
14. Route of the Flowers
15. The Grand Organ

Catalan ‘Modernism‘

Catalan’ modernism‘ was a movement in art and literature that began at the turn of the 20th century. It was a movement that focused on Catalonia separating itself from the rest of Spain. This separation began with art and literature. Although Catalonia is part of the Spanish nation, they have customs and languages that are entirely unique to Spain. Modernism rejected bourgeois values and adopted a bohemian attitude. Many people named the Café Castell dels tres Dragons by Lluís Domènech i Montaner as the first piece design in the modernism style. In other parts of Europe, Art Nouveau and the Arts and Crafts movement were also on the rise, which shares similar characteristics with modernism.

They all have historically-derived elements, and all passionately use organic themes, lavish decorations, and a strong sense of asymmetry and unbalance. Their shapes are freer, less restrained and the idea of exploration and imagination are of the utmost importance. This was like Catalan’s Renaissance, which they coined the ‘Renaixença‘ or ‘rebirth.’

Access

To make your way to Palau, take the Metro on the Yellow Line (L4) to Urquinaona station. It’s located near the Gothic Quarter, so it is easily combined with the Gothic Quarter Walking Tour. Unlike many of Gaudi’s designs, Palau is tucked away and not on display. You need to discover it yourself by making your way down these narrow alleyways, away from the main streets.

Concert Tickets or Guided Tour

There are two ways to visit the Palau de la Musica. One of the best ways to see the concert hall as it was meant to be enjoyed is to attend a show or production. Every year the building hosts half a million audience members who’ll come to see over 300 different performances. Seeing a concert here is a unique and powerful experience. But understandably, the cost might be prohibitive for some travellers, or you just might not be interested in any of the types of performances. The other way to see the concert hall is by booking a guided tour. 

Guided Tours

This guided tour will give you the chance to learn all about the architecture, the artists and the history of the building. The guided tour also gives you access to some parts of the buildings which aren’t accessible during the regular performances. It is advisable to buy tickets for these guided tours in advance since often, during peak tourist months, they are difficult to come by. You want to ensure you can book a tour in your preferred language.

A regular guided tour ticket costs €20. A ticket that includes a piano recital costs €25 (if you have the option, this is the one I’d recommend). If you want to save some money, you can purchase a ‘Self Guided Tour Ticket‘ for €15, a new option as of 2019. If you choose this option, you can use this blog as your little helper to understand all the different aspects of this incredible work of art. The guided or self-guided tour option lasts just under an hour.

The Facade

The Palau de la Música is located along a narrow street in the Gothic Quarter. The location of the building is almost claustrophobic, so tightly packed in between the others on the street. But the ingenious designs which Montaner came up with seem to battle this claustrophobic feeling with colour and fun. The exposed red brick exterior is opened up with dozens of arches and columns. Set along the facade, an element inspired by Arabic architecture. The columns are decored in intricate mosaics, which draw your eye up to the roofline. Stained glass windows are used to bring in the natural light from all corners of the building. Ensuring that all throughout the day, there always natural light flowing inside. All of this gives the building a breathy and light quality.

Lluís Bru

On the south side of the building, at the top of the facade, is an opulent mosaic made by artist Lluís Bru. It represents the members of the Orfeó Català dressed in a symbolic scene. The piece is hard to see from the street, and for some reason, that makes it all the more special. It feels like something which was meant more for the creator than for the viewer. And discovering it is like finding a secret just aching to be found out.

La cançó popular Catalana

On the southeast corner of the Palau de la Música, you’ll find an awe-inspiring sculpture that seems to soar off the side of the building. This creation was made by sculptor Miquel Blay, named ‘La cançó popular Catalana’ (the favourite Catalan song). The sculpture takes on a similar shape as the carved figureheads on the bow of a ship. A beautiful woman is the central figure of the sculpture which the other characters surround. The woman, who represents songs, is accompanied by men and women representing Catalan music and art. Atop all the figures is Saint George, the Patron Saint of Catalonia, to protect them all. Symbols of Saint George can be found throughout the building, like hidden Easter eggs around every corner.

Musician Busts

Above various columns on the side of the building are busts of prominent figures from the history of music. You can see the heads of Giovanni Pierluigi da Palestrina, Johann Sebastian Bach, Ludwig van Beethoven and Richard Wagner all peaking out across the facade.

Taking your eyes from up high, back down to street level, try to see if you can spot the old ticket box. It stands along with one of the pillars near the entrance. The old ticket box is surrounded by lovely floral mosaics blooming all around.

Palau Square

The new entrance to the Palau de la Música is through Palau Square. This square is an outdoor space that faces the new glass-walled exterior. The glass wall, which makes the entirety of the interior visible to the public on the other side, was made by architect Òscar Tusquets. The original architect’s vision for this building was glass and light. And it seems fitting that Tusquets’s renovations continued this theme. These days, the square offers locals a place to relax on the staggered steps and where Palau’s cafe and bar spill out on sunny days. In the summer, some grandstands are brought out to accommodate musical performances and festivals. This makes the Palau feel like more than just a place to see the ticketed event. But as a place for the community to meet.

Cafe Foyer

Upon entering the building, you’ll step right into the Cafe Foyer. If you’re on a super-tight budget and can’t afford to attend a performance or guided tour, you can visit the foyer for free. Inside the Cafe Foyer, you’ll be able to see a surprising amount of imaginative architecture. And stunning ornamentation, which continues throughout the rest of the space. The foyer feels so warm and inviting. The wide arches are complete with beautiful red bricks and emerald-green tiles. They curve towards the rose-decorated ceiling.

At the cafe, you can enjoy Basque-style tapas and Catalan drinks at reasonable prices. Take a seat inside and soak in the ambience if you don’t have a chance to tour the rest of the interior. The bar itself is a work of art. Brilliant stain glass panels in the shape of blooming flowers are suspended between the large brick column with their own budding roses.

Interior Stained Glass

Take a walk around the foyer. Darling geometric pieces of stained glasses surround ornate columns and powerfully carved archways. Each one with a strong focus on the natural environment. Modernism was all about bringing the outside into the interior, making you feel as though you are always surrounded by mother nature.

Lluís Millet Grand Staircase

To being your guide, you’ll be ushed into the Lluís Millet Grand Staircase. If you’re here during a concert, don’t rush up to your seats and instead take a moment to study this entryway. As you walk up the stairs, look up the dazzling ceramic glazed ceiling. The tiles are so shiny they appear to shine like the stars.

The staircase is made of exquisitely carved marble, which also shimmers in the light of day. Huge street lamps are affixed on either side of the stairs. On the ceiling above the stairs, you can study the pale blue painted roof, which is adorned with golden ceramic roses, shaped into the pattern of a giant star.

Lluís Millet Hall

At the top of the stairs, you’ll enter the Lluís Millet Hall. You might be wondering, who is this Lluís Millet that all these rooms are being named after. Lluís Millet was a famous Catalan composer who helped found the Orfeó Català. This hallway is also called the intermission hall since guests will retire during breaks in the performances. The most impressive part of this room is the huge spread of stained glass windows that face ours onto the balcony.

The flowers that bloom at the bottom of the panels open up into clear glass panes to see the incredible musicians’ columns along with the balcony and allow for more light to pour into this room. Throughout the room, there are also various bronze busts of important contributors to Palau. While you might not recognize their names, it’s so lovely to see their faces still looking out at the incredible work of art they helped contribute to.

Lluís Millet Balcony

Standing out on the Lluís Millet Balcony is one of the best parts of the tour. The balcony feels like stepping out into a rainbow garden. The colonnades here are each covered entirely with multicoloured glazed tiles in a variety of floral designs. At the top of the columns are some incredible blooming flowers exploding out of the carved granite. Getting up close and personal to the mosaics, you can really appreciate the artistry the craftsmen put into the colouring of these tiles. They are so vibrant despite their location outdoors for over a hundred years.

Concert Hall

The concert hall is the piece-de-resistance of the entire Palau de la Música Catalana. As soon as you walk in, your eye will be drawn in a thousand different directions. While the dazzling stained glass skylight might be the brightest thing in the entire room, try to take in the whole room as one piece at first. You’ll notice that the entire place looks like it was hewn out of a rocky mountain and not built in the centre of a city from afar. The organic impression of the room helps continue to impress the viewer. With the theme of naturalism which is so important to Catalan Modernism.

While the hall might feel entirely natural and almost like it was created at random, many aspects of the theatre were actually thoughtfully designed to ensure the music sounded as pure and full as possible inside the concert hall. The concert hall features about 2,200 seats, spread out over 3 floors. But despite the large size, the room still manages to feel warm and cozy due to all the natural light which flows in from all sides.

Vaults

This is the only auditorium in Europe to be illuminated entirely in natural light during the daytime! Artificial light, while necessary during the evening, does affect how the room feels. On either side, the walls of the concert hall consist entirely of stained glass panels set beneath fantastic arches. The vaults between the arches and pillars are covered in stunning tile work. In the centre of each vault are many laurel wreaths with the names of famous musicians set inside, essentially crowning them with this distinguished honour.

While natural lighting might have been Domènech I Montaner’s preferred means of illuminating space when creating artificial light, he took the job very seriously. The chandeliers are made of many different shaped bulbs in a variety of different colours. They look like stars or constellations spread out across the starry night.

Along with the right upper balcony, you can make out the flag of Saint George embedded on into the stained glass. Another one of those little details is worth noting.

Stained-Glass Ceiling

The centrepiece of this room is an incredible stained glass ceiling. It is completely breathtaking. Unlike some skylights, this one is an inverted dome, so it feels as though the ceiling is curling in towards the audience below. It was designed by Antoni Rigalt, whose mastery of stained glass is unmatched. The centre of the dome is a luminous geometric sun in a variety of warm hues. Surrounding the sun is a chorus of angels set against a tightly patterned sky.

Depending on the time or weather during your visit, the light which pours in through the skylight is changeable. Sometimes it appears more green, and sometimes it seems bluer. Much like the real sky, which is never merely one distinct colour, this shifting quality of these windows is almost magical.

The Stage Muses

18 depictions of women clad in gorgeous textiles are spread out across the stage wall. While their bodies are designed within the mosaic, their faces jut out from the wall into three-dimensional sculptures. Each of the women carries in their hand an instrument of folk music. These are traditional instruments such as harps and castanets. The women are also representatives of the nine Greek muses of the arts. The lower portion of the bodies made of mosaics was created by Lluís Bru, while the upper sculptural part was made by Eusebi Arnau. In the centre of the stage is a large mosaic featuring the coat of arms of Catalonia.

The Doric Column Scenes

Flanking either side of the stage and creeping up the three-storey-tall Doric columns are another set of astonishing sculptures. On the left side, we see a group of women clustered together; these women are in the middle of singing the famous Catalan song Les Flores de Maig (The Flowers of May). Above the women is a bust of Catalan composer Josep Anselm Clavé. Clavé was instrumental (pardon the pun) in reviving Catalan folk songs. Clavé is nestled under the shade of a large stone tree whose leaves seem eternally just about to fall to the ground. Looking up from this angle also gives you a view of the remarkable ceramic roses that are littered across the ceiling and floral mosaics, which are also found on the underside of the balconies. These little details are some of the things which make this building so incredible.

On the right side of the columns, we see the illustrious composer and musician’s stern face and unruly hair, Beethoven. Atop Beethoven himself are a fury of horses running along with the ceiling in a mighty stampede. They are charging so fast, in fact, that they have created this voluminous gust of wind around them. Riding atop these horses are a set of attractive Valkeries. The Valkyries are from Wagner’s opera ‘Die Walküre,’ one of the most influential and powerful operatic songs in music history.

The Pegasus’

In addition to the horses ridden by the Valkeries are the flying Pegasus’ who leap downwards towards the audience. These can be found on the upper balconies, and if you have seats up here, you can actually get quite close to these sculptures and study every detail of their surging forms.

Route of the Flowers

You may have noticed the repetition of roses throughout the tour, either in the textiles, stone, ceramics, or embedded in stained glass windows. The Palau de la Música Catalana has more than 2,000 roses spread across the building. The rose is the symbol of Saint George, who is the patron saint of Catalonia. As such, the symbol of the rose is of great importance to the nation and in this building which served as a symbol of national pride.

The Grand Organ

If you’re here on tour, you’ll be treated to a performance by a local musician who’ll come in to play the magnificent organ. This is your chance to hear just how intense the sound from this amazing instrument really is. The organ was built custom for space in 1906 by the prestigious German firm Walcker in Ludwigsburg. In 1973 parts of the organ were replaced as the instrument was electrified. But the organ shop ensured the sound remained as full as the previous version.

Getting to hear some Catalan songs being played through this magnificent instrument was definitely a moment I’ll never forget, and some of the songs brought a tear to my eye. It somehow made the entire place come alive, and for a moment, I thought I could see those Valkeries singing along as they flew across the ceiling.

This building is truly one of the most spectacular visions of Catalan Modernism, and if you have the chance to visit it in person, don’t hesitate to make the journey to find this breathtaking vision of mother nature come to life through tiles stone and glass.

Happy Travel Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Guide to Palau de la Música Catalana, the Most Beautiful Concert Hall in the World first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.