Table Of Contents

1. How to Get to Sintra & the Moorish Castle
   • When to Visit the Moorish Castle
2. Accessing the Moorish Castle
   • Uber
   • Walking to the Moorish Castle
3. Hours & Admission
   • Why Visit?
   • Accessibility
4. History of the Moorish Castle
   • King Alfonso VI
   • Castle of the Moors
5. Entrance to the Castle
7. Granaries
9. Archaeological Tombs
11. Church of São Pedro de Canaferrim
13. Stables
15. Cisterns
17. Castle Walls
19. Arms Square
21. Door of Betrayal
23. Wall Pathways
25. Tower Keep
27. Royal Tower
29. Happy Travel Adventurers

How to Get to Sintra & the Moorish Castle

The Moorish Castle is located in Sintra and easily accessible from Lisbon by trains leaving Rossio station. The trip requires no transfers and takes around 40 minutes. The round-trip journey costs just 4.50€, making it one of the most cost-efficient day trips. There are trains out to Sintra almost every 40 minutes. If you plan to visit the Moorish Castle as a part of a ‘Day Trip to Sintra,’ where you’ll see a few of the fantastic residences, I highly recommend getting the train before 8 am.

The train schedule changes slightly throughout the year, so I didn’t want to give you an exact time but leaving before 8 am means you’ll arrive before 9 am giving yourself plenty of time to get to your first destination with some time to spare before it opens. Sintra seems to explode with tourist buses as the morning wears on so early really pays off. But if you’re only planning on visiting the Moorish Castle, you don’t need to worry too much about crowds or leaving early. The Moorish Castle is the least crowded of all the sights since, even on busy days, the large open spaces allow everyone to spread out so it never seems too crowded.

When to Visit the Moorish Castle

Since the Moorish Castle is entirely located outside, visiting on a beautiful day will make your experience much more enjoyable. Winter is when you’ll find the least tourists, and if you can brave the weather, the almost abandoned appearance of the castle is something extraordinary to experience. Summertime can be a bit hot, so just be sure to lather on sunscreen if you’ll be out all day. Spring and Fall are the happy medium of pleasant weather and medium crowds. Monday-Thursday is reliably the least busy time throughout the week to visit. Avoid holidays when possible, as these bring in Portuguese tourists.

Accessing the Moorish Castle

There are three options for getting to the Moorish Castle. The first is to take public buses located right outside Sintra Station. The bus to take is #434, which services the Moorish Castle. This bus tends to have pretty big lines up at the train station stop since everyone getting on needs to purchase their day ticket, which slows things down. But once you have your pass, it’s super easy to jump on and off throughout the day. Tickets for this bus cost 5€ for a 24-hour pass.

Uber

The second option is jumping in an Uber. Ubers are a great way to get around Sintra but be warned that because some of the streets are one way up a long and winding hill, some drivers might take a while to get to you or might cancel frequently. The Uber ride from the train station to the Moorish Castle is around 6€ depending on the time of day and the weather. If you’re travelling with 3 or 4 people, Uber can save you some money, and if there is a big lineup for the bus, it can save you some time. If you haven’t used Uber before, download the app and use my referral code, rds9f, to get $5 off your first ride!

Walking to the Moorish Castle

The third option is to walk. Walking from the train station to the Moorish Castle takes about 45 minutes, but if you’re keen on hiking, this is a great opportunity. There are maps of the hiking trails available at the tourist information centre. The best walk to take, which is the most direct, is the path via the Rampa do Castelo, which takes you through a shortcut directly up to the castle. I’ve added a map below to both the pathway to the Moorish Castle and Pena Palace since the free maps can sometimes be a little tough to follow, but the signage on the actual trails is quite good.

Hours & Admission

Since the Moorish Castle isn’t as insanely busy as Pena Palace, if you’re only visiting this one castle, you don’t need to worry too much about buying tickets in advance. Although buying them online in advance will save you 5% and also means it’s one less thing to do once you arrive. Tickets are valid for the entire year, so even if you buy them and plan on visiting one day, which gets rained out, you can easily change things around without being beholden to ticket dates and times.

You can also purchase them on your phone and show the e-ticket, no need to print out the physical document. If you can’t buy online in advance, there is a ticket booth at the entrance where you can buy them. Tickets for adults (18 – 64) cost 8€, youths (6 – 17) cost 6,5€ and seniors (over 65) are 6,5€. The castle is open from 9:30 am to 8 pm, with the last entry to the castle at 7 pm. The castle is open all year except December 25th and January 1st.

Why Visit?

Compared to sites like Pena Palace, the Sintra National Palace or the Quinta da Regaleira, the Moorish Castle might seem a little plain and uninteresting. There is no arguing that it is indeed the castle with the least amount of glitz, but what I found so impactful was the sheer depth of history you could feel within these walls. Pairing this place with the other castles was a stark contrast I appreciated, like a breath of fresh air. Some people skip this castle thinking it will be a little boring, but hiking along the ramparts was one of the most exciting parts of the day trip! I won’t miss it if you have the time!

Accessibility

Many people may not know when visiting this castle that the restoration project which took place to restore the castle was aimed at making it more accessible to people with mobility issues. In the depths of the forest, beside rocky cliff-sides and ancient ruins, you might be surprised to hear that there are special pathways all around the castle that visitors in wheelchairs can use. They have even made one of the castle’s wall lookouts accessible via a new wheelchair ramp to ensure all visitors get a glimpse across the countryside. I was so impressed when I researched this online and saw all the different accessibility ramps they can bring for those guests, even into a place built in the 9th century.

History of the Moorish Castle

The Moorish Castle is one of the oldest parts of Sintra. It was built in the 8th and 9th centuries by the Moors. “Moors” was a general term for the Muslim Moors from North Africa who came to Portugal. They brought with them their rich architectural histories, which generations would continue to be inspired by. This location was of mighty military power since it was located at a high vantage point above the town of Sintra, looking out over the River Tagus. From here, soldiers could keep guard against any incoming enemy ships. Sintra was a powerful township as the fields were full of fertile soil, and the farms around the hills were reliable producers of everything from grains to legumes.

King Alfonso VI

In 1093 a Christian crusade led by King Alfonso VI of Castile attempted to overtake the castle, but they were driven out by the overwhelming Moorish forces. But in 1147, the Christian forces of the Reconquista were finally powerful enough to take the castle from the Moors for the Christians. It was used for military defences during the 14th century, but eventually, it feels to ruins when it was no longer needed for security and more of the country’s power began to shift towards Lisbon as it was the city center.

Over the next few hundred years, it became almost completely abandoned. In the 15th century, when the Jews were expelled from Lisbon, they came here to live. But in 1636, a lightning storm caused a large fire which disseminated the castle, and a massive earthquake in 1755 levelled the remains of the battlements. Many thought that the castle would be lost to the ages as it sunk farther and farther into ruins.

Castle of the Moors

But when King Ferdinand II bought Pena Palace, he also took some interest in the Castle of the Moors. Ferdinand had a passion for history and took it upon himself to start preserving the remains of the castle and rebuilding the portions beyond repair. He loved looking at the stunning Moorish castle walls from his terrace, and when he visited the Moorish Castle, he could walk around the tower walls to the best view over his storybook castle found anywhere in Sintra. They both were like children to him, and the care (and financial aid) he sunk into these hilltop castles doesn’t go unnoticed even hundreds of years later.

Entrance to the Castle

While the entrance to the Moorish Castle, where you’ll find the ticket booth, is right off the side of the road, the journey towards the interior door is about a 15-minute walk from there, around the second ring of castle walls. You’ll stroll along a rolling pathway leading you around the castle’s exterior. Look up as you examine the old stone walls above the steep hillside around you. These secondary castle walls were built to protect the surrounding population and their animals and crops from invaders.

Granaries

Along the route toward the entrance, you can spot the excavated areas where a few large granaries were used to store cereals and legumes. These ingenious storage containers were brought to Portugal by the enterprising Moors.

Archaeological Tombs

Just outside the entrance, you’ll find an area where archaeological excavations were undertaken by King Ferdinand II. There, he found hundreds of bones buried under the soil. Today, there is a glass cover which reveals replicas of the skeletons which were discovered buried here. The King made a point to collect all the bones and inter them in a small tomb. The tomb is engraved with the symbol of a crescent and a cross and bears the following epitaph, “What man has joined only God will set apart.” In King Ferdinand’s time, this is because there was no way of telling if the bones were from the Christians or the Muslim inhabitants, and yet Ferdinand wanted to give them all a proper dedication.

Church of São Pedro de Canaferrim

In front of the main gates of the castle, you’ll find a small romantic-style chapel. This chapel, called Church of São Pedro de Canaferrim, was first built in the 12th century by King Afonso Henriques after the Christian invasion but was rebuilt by Ferdinand in a style he much preferred. The church now contains relics found on the site, some from the Neolithic area (5000 BC) and other important artifacts from the 10th-12th century Islamic cultures who lived here.

Stables

Upon entering through the Curtain Wall, to the left of the archway is the site of the old stables. A newly built stylized wooden structure is where you can find the Visitor Centre and get a map of the castle’s interior. It’s also where you can find the shop, washrooms and cafe. The cafe’s small terrace with a few patio tables is an excellent place to recharge if you hike all the way up to the castle or even if you need a short rest before walking up the castle walls.

Cisterns

Outside the stables, walk around and see if you can spot the two massive stone cisterns. These are covered in an iron grate in the shape of an Arabic star. These large vaulted cisterns were built in the 13th century, and the tanks held over 600 cubic meters of water. Access to clean water was the lifeblood of a secluded castle, and these water wells meant that the citizens could hold up inside the safety of the walls without ever having to go outside during war. The cisterns were so important that legend says that beneath them were the burial chambers of the Moorish kings. Take a peek down below to see if you spot any ghosts of King’s past.

Castle Walls

Take a closer look at the walls of the castle. See if you can make out the four distinct different layers of which they’re made up. Each one tells the story of the people who ruled over this structure. The first layer is made of granite blocks which rest on the bedrock over what was once an Islamic house and silos in the 12th century. The second phase was a reconstruction using ancient techniques made in the 12-13th century. The third phase was built in the 19th century when King Ferdinand took possession of the castle and helped with its restoration. The last stage was built in the 20th century when the castle became a tourist destination run by the government, and steps were taken to ensure its safety and strength for future generations.

Arms Square

The large open courtyard in the center of the castle is called the ‘Pracad de Armas‘ or Arms Square. This was where the military garrison would gather in the 13th century. When it was remodelled by King Ferdinand later in the 19th century, into a garden oasis. It was a space for contemplation and is still a beautiful area for people to sit and enjoy the view if they cannot manage the hike up the castle walls.

Door of Betrayal

In the centre of the Arms Square, you can spot a small wooden door, slightly hidden down half a level. Despite its ubiquitous appearance, this door has one of the darkest histories of the castle. It’s called the “Door of Betrayal” as the passageway provided discrete access to the castle’s exterior as a means of escape, or in another case, as a means to let the enemy inside the castle, hence the name; Door of Betrayal.

Wall Pathways

We visited on an especially windy day, and despite this, we walked the entire way to the top of the walls for a spectacular panorama across the countryside of Sintra. Walking up these walls, you feel like an explorer discovering ancient ruins. On a clear day, you can see across the Atlantic Ocean. We tried to spot all the locations we’d been to earlier in the day and were amazed at how far we’d walked!

Tower Keep

The first tower to visit along the walls of the castle is the Tower Keep. This was the stronghold where the local authorities would meet. It’s located at the highest point along the rampart and was where the guards had the best vantage points over the lands which needed protection.

From the Tower Keep, walk along the castle’s walls, making your way to the Royal Tower. This is where you’ll find the King’s favourite views over towards Pena Palace. You can still see flags flying high in the sky along the walls. One of the most significant flags is the green one, which has the word ‘Sintra’ written in Arabic as a dedication to the Moorish history of the palace.

Royal Tower

The Royal tower is the crowning glory of the castle. When you finally get to the top, the scenery is stupendous, perhaps made even more rewarding because of all the effort it takes to get there. You can stand holding the top flag pool and imagine yourself as one of the knights of the realm, looking out over the kingdom.

The walk down from the tower is much more leisurely, and although the landscape is the same going down as it was coming up, it seems different, almost like getting another angle on the entire vista. It’s incredible to observe the lush bushes, trees and flowers that sprout from within the rocks themselves. Things seem impossible to grow inside these rocks, yet these trees seem to be hundreds of years old. As old as the castle itself.

This brings us to the end of the tour; you can either make your way down to the bus stop, catch an uber, or hike the rest of the way back into town. I hope you enjoyed your time at the Moorish Castle; it was such a pleasant surprise when we visited, and well worth the effort climbing to the top! Let me know if the comment if you’ve ever travelled to Sintra and what your favourite castle you visited way!

Happy Travel Adventurers

The post The Best Self-Guided Tour of the Amazing Moorish Castle, Sintra’s Oldest World Heritage Site first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Sintra Castles Itinerary

This itinerary features all the great sights, some time to relax, the best ways to avoid the crowds (as much as possible) and have fun exploring along the way! The itinerary takes us first to Pena Palace, then through the lush palace gardens, which lead us up to the ruins of the medieval Moorish castle. After touring these ancient stone walls, we head to the “millionaires manor,” the Quinta da Regaleira. Once thoroughly mindblown by these fantastical castles, it’s time to wander through the old town of Sintra, where we’ll stop for dinner and dessert before heading back to Lisbon. The blog post is broken up into each section of the itinerary, so if you want to skip to a specific portion, there are links below.

Table Of Contents

1. How to Get to Sintra
2. Tickets
3. When to Visit Sintra
4. Hours
5. Arrival in Sintra
6. Pena Palace
7. Gardens of Pena Park
8. Moorish Castle
9. Quinta da Regaleira
10. Interior of the Palace
11. Village of Sintra
12. Dinner & Dessert

How to Get to Sintra

Sintra is easily accessible from Lisbon by trains leaving from Rossio station. The trip requires no transfers and takes around 40 minutes. The round-trip journey costs just 4.50€, making it one of the most cost-efficient day trips. While trains are out to Sintra almost every 40 minutes, I highly recommend getting the train before 8 am. The train schedule changes slightly throughout the year, so I didn’t want to give you an exact time but leaving before 8 am means you’ll arrive before 9 am giving yourself plenty of time to get to your first destination with some time to spare before it opens.

Sintra seems to explode with tourist buses as the morning wears on, so early really pays off. Any chance of being tired is worth it for the experience of arriving at Pena Palace without having to wait in huge lines and fight the enormous crowds to see what’s around you. Also, have a metro card loaded with funds to tap on and off the train or buy your train tickets in advance. Even super early in the morning, there was a lineup at the ticket counter. We were happy to have our pre-loaded metro cards, which meant we could just tap right on them, ensuring we made it onto the train in time. It was surprising how critical those few minutes were in the outcome of our day.

Tickets

Purchasing your tickets in advance for Pena Palace and the Moorish castle is recommended. Adult tickets to Pena Palace are 14,00€ for exterior and interior tours or 7.50€ for the park and exterior of the palace only. The Moorish Castle costs 7.60€, but you’ll save 5% when you buy online. By taking care of this step in advance, you’ll save on time upon arrival and booking online also gets you 5% off!

Tickets are valid for the entire year, so even if you buy them and plan on visiting one day, which gets rained out, you can easily change things around without being beholden to ticket dates and times. You can also purchase them on your phone and show the e-ticket, no need to print out the physical document. The Quinta da Regaleira ticket line is significantly less busy, and you can buy those tickets at the gate. Since it’s the last destination of the day, it’s nice to leave it as an option in case you’re too tired or decide to spend more time elsewhere. Tickets into Quinta da Regaleira costs 8€.

Admission Options for Pena Palace

There are two options for Pena Palace admission. One is to tour the palace’s exterior and royal gardens. The other option will get you entry into the interior of the castle. If you are confident you’ll arrive early and are keen on seeing the rooms inside, go ahead and buy that ticket. But the lineup to get inside can get insanely long. They need to control the number of people who enter the buildings (something which isn’t monitored outside), so this often results in lengthy queues.

We were there as close to the opening as possible, and even we had to wait about 20 minutes to get inside. When we left, the line looked to be almost 2 hours long. While I thoroughly enjoyed touring the interior, there is no way it’s worth 2+ hours of waiting in line. If you think you can miss the interior, the gardens, and the exterior ticket is an excellent option since I think the best parts of the castle are the exterior anyway. It will save you a few euros and potentially a lot of time. If you did purchase a ticket for the interior tour but the lineup to get inside is gigantic, I would advise coming back right before closing when the crowds have cleared out.

When to Visit Sintra

Sintra is always busy. Yes, the winter will most likely be the least busy, but it’s also chilly and can be a bit grey. Since most of the things to see are outside, it’s not always the most comfortable time to explore. The height of the summer holidays is equally as miserable but instead because of the intense heat and crowds. Springtime is the happy medium of pleasant weather and medium crowds. Monday-Thursday is the best chance you’ll see a small group reduction.

Avoid holidays when possible, as these bring in Portuguese tourists. As mentioned before, the earlier in the morning you arrive, the better chance you’ll have at beating the bus tours, which are the most significant crowd control issue. Always the most comfortable time to explore.

Hours

Pena Palace

Pena Palace is open all year round except December 25th and January 1st. During the Summer (March to October), the palace is open from 9:45 am until 7:00 pm (last entry 6:15), and the park is open from 9:30 am until 8:00 pm (last entry 7:00 pm). In the Winter (October to March), the palace & park are open from 10:00 am until 6:00 pm.

Moorish Castle

The Moorish Castle is open all year round except December 25th and January 1st. Last entry 1 hour before closing time. In the Summer (March to October), the hours are 9:30 am until 8:00 pm, and in the Winter (October to March), the hours are 10:00 am until 6:00pm.

Quinta da Regaleira

Quinta da Regaleira is open all year round except for December 24th and 25th, and January 1st. On December 31st, the opening hours are limited. During the Summer (April to September), the hours are 9:30 am to 7:00 pm, and in the Winter (October to March), they are 9:30 am to 6:00 pm.

Arrival in Sintra

There are two (well, three) options for getting around in Sintra. The first is to take the public buses, primarily bus #434, which services most of the tourist attractions you’ll be visiting in Sintra. This bus tends to have big lines up at the train stop since everyone getting on needs to purchase their day ticket, which slows things down. But once you have your pass, it’s super easy to jump on and off throughout the day. Tickets for this bus cost 5€ for a 24-hour pass.

Ubering to the Palace

The second option is jumping in an Uber. Ubers are a great way to get around Sintra but be warned that because some of the streets are one-way, up a long and winding hill, some drivers might take a while to get to you or might cancel frequently. The Uber ride from the train station to Pena Palace is around 6€ depending on the time of day and the weather. If you’re travelling with 3 or 4 people, Ubers can save you money compared to the bus pass. You don’t need to use transportation more than twice in this itinerary. If you haven’t used Uber before, download the app and use my referral code, rds9f, to get $5 off your first ride!

Walking Option

The third option is to walk. Walking from the train station to Pena Palace is a long journey, but if you’re keen on hiking, this is a great opportunity. Just leave yourself some extra time to hike up to the castle and still arrive at the gates at 9:30 am. Walking to and from the other points in our tour is a great way to save time and see some beautiful things along the way. While some of this tour will be on foot, it’s been tested with people of all fitness levels and ages, so there is no need to worry. If you feel like you need to take a break, remember that taking a seat, literally anywhere in Sintra, will always result in one of the most spectacular views you can get anywhere in the world.

Pena Palace

Pena Palace opens at 9:30 am. Even before this, the crowds lined up outside the gates to get inside this magnificent dwelling. Looking at this sumptuous and over-the-top architectural masterpiece, it’s hard to imagine that this site was once where a very modest monastery once stood.

History of Pena Palace

The Hieronymite monastery was built in 1503 in honour of the Virgin Mary, who is said to have appeared at the top of the mountain in a vision. After falling to ruins over the years due to religious upheavals, King Ferdinand II, who had been in love with this spot since he was a child, decided to buy the buildings and the surrounding lands. Construction of the new royal estate began in 1838.

Ferdinand was obsessed with romanticism in art and architecture. He wanted his contemporary summer house to feel like something out of a storybook. Oddly enough, the palace’s construction was taken on by a mining engineer, Wilhelm Ludwig von Eschwege. Perhaps this was because the Prince and his wife wanted their full say in the castle’s design. Yet they needed Eschwege’s planning prowess to help them achieve the look of a castle sprung forth from the rocks. There really is no one style to be found here. Instead, it’s a patchwork quilt of influences and themes. Ferdinand wanted to include Medieval and Islamic elements and Neo-Renaissance, Neo-Gothic, and Neo-Manueline. The Manueline architecture was the most iconic style in Portugal at the time. It was the millennial pink of its time.

Entrance to the Palace

While the entry gates are just off the roadside, the palace is a fair bit uphill from the main entrance. There is a mini-bus which runs up to the top, but it costs 3€ and more than the money, the line you need to wait in to get onto the bus is a huge inconvenience. Although a little long, the walk-up is actually quite enjoyable. If you have mobility issues, just take it slow and spend the extra time resting between spurts admiring all the beautiful flora and fauna in the garden.

At the top of the hill, the golden yellow walls, blue tile and red-painted exterior of the palace begin to emerge from the trees. Seeing this palace in real life is nothing like seeing the pictures. I really don’t think they can do it justice. Walking up those cobblestone steps makes you feel like you’re walking into a fantasy.

Door of Alhambra

The entryway into the castle is called the Door of Alhambra. It was inspired by the Alhambra Door of Justice in Granada, Spain. The doorway is covered in brightly painted tiles and decorated with various elegant leaves. Ferdinand wanted this gateway to be where his visitors left the real world behind and stepped into his dream world.

Open passing through the archway, we step into the ‘Coach Yard.’ This was as far as horses and carriages could come, and guests would make their way to the palace on foot. Standing here, we can look up at the ‘Monumental Gateway.’ The gateway’s design is a blend of architectural elements found all over Lisbon and which the Prince wanted to see incorporated into his palace.

The facade is covered in diamond-shaped stones, referencing the Casa dos Bicos in Alfama. On either side of the top of the gateway, we have arched domes, completed with rope-like decoration; the same was on the famed Tower of Belem. The exterior is finished in a series of round balls reminiscent of the Cunhal das Bolas in Barrio Alto. In the centre of the arch, on the very top, is a pair of crossed swords atop a knight’s helmet, with a plume of lush feathers springing out of the top.

Upper Courtyard

Step through the archway and make your way around the swirling passageway to the upper courtyard. It’s here you’ll finally have the chance to study the tiles which make up the exterior hue of this building. Tiles, or Azulejos as they are called in Portuguese, have a strong history in Portugal, dating back to the 13th century. The Moors brought them here, who invaded much of Spain and Portugal in the 1200s. The word azulejo in Arabic means “small polished stone.” In Islam, they believed in aniconism, the avoidance of images of sentient beings in art. As such, geometric shapes became the most popular form of decor. As such, most of the tiles brought with them from Islam continue this tradition. The geometric and natural forms are striking, and their colours haven’t faded significantly over the years.

The Triton Portico

The Triton Portico is one of the most impressive elements of Pena Palace. Triton is meant to serve as an allegorical of the world’s creation. The facade is divided into two factions, the aquatic world below and the terrestrial world above. They are separated by Triton, a monster half man and half fish but a part of both worlds. Bits of corals surround Triton’s feet; above him, you can see the carved grape vines and leaves blossoming wildly. The Portuguese were a seafaring nation, and aquatic symbolism was always an important aspect of their artistic culture.

Interior Tour of Pena Palace

After studying the first courtyard, you can visit the interior if you buy a ticket. This part of the tour often gets very crowded, and the line can get long, so best to do it right away when the line is shorter. The palace’s interiors are located inside the old Hieronymite convent. As such, the layout follows the design of the former convent exactly. As you enter, you’ll step right into the open cloisters. Look up and see how the open-air hallways continue on both palace floors. This place is covered in azulejos, and ghastly faces stare down at you, carved in the gargoyles above.

Dining Room

The dining room is one of the most impressive rooms on the first floor. The dining room has the most remarkable ceilings made of intricate ribbed vaults and lined with tiles. The table is set like they’re still awaiting their visitors. Each piece of furniture was made for this exact space, the images of Portuguese animals of the forest carved into the backs of the chairs.

Plaster and paint were used to create illusions throughout the interior. This technique is called ‘Trompe-l’ œil,’ French for “to deceive the eye.” Objects in three dimensions are here created in a two-dimensional forced perspective. In King Carlos’ studio, we find a painting of Nymphs and Satyrs playing in the Park of Pena, which is believed to have been painted by the King himself.

Interior Ornamentation

Stucco was used to decorate the ceilings of the interior, some designed in the shapes of pine cones, leaves and branches. In other rooms, we find the ceilings patterned with Islamic designs in the stucco. Walking from room to room, you feel like you’re entering another world.

One of my favourite parts of touring the interior was all the personal touches, decorations, knickknacks and treasures. The little things which make a house, a home. They were those fascinating treasures that made the castle feel like someone really lived there.

Noble Hall

Upstairs, the Noble Hall is one of the most impressive spaces. Compared to the relatively small sizes of the bedrooms, this reception hall was where the King took advantage of space. It was here where large parties were thrown, and the who’s who of Lisbon’s high society would come during the summer. The Noble Hall was inspired by the Ottoman Court. Iron replicas of Turkish kings are on either end of the room; they hold huge golden torches. Comfortable red leather sofas on either side of the hall were designed with mirrored canopied behind them to make the room appear much larger. It was also an excellent way for the elite to spy on those around them!

Kitchen

The last room you’ll see is the old kitchen, a real hit with chefs and foodies. Here are all the original kitchen utensils, pots and pans and other antique items found in the antiquated Portuguese kitchens. The kitchen felt enormous when the rooms were all rather small, but it must have taken an army to feed the tremendous parties which were no doubt held here.

Arches Yard

After exiting the interior, you have the chance to now tour the opposite side of the outside of the palace. Walk underneath Triton’s arch out to the Arches Yard. This is where you’ll find the beautiful golden-yellow Moorish arches, which create a window onto the village of Sintra and across the countryside below.

There is nothing to compare this view to; it seems to go on and on forever on a clear day. From atop this peak, you can spy on all the rich estates below, one of which is actually owned by Madonna, the queen of pop herself! Sintra is still where the rich and famous come to escape the city and live in some of the most lavish properties in the world.

Convent of the Order of Christ

Take the chance to turn your eyes away from the incredible view and look toward one of the ornate windows on the main facade. This piece was inspired by the chapter house window in the Convent of the Order of Christ in Tomar. The window is surrounded by alchemical symbols, some of which seem to have a mystical aura. Much of Sintra’s more obscure lore lies in its prominence as a Masonic hub. The Convent of the Order of Christ was a 12th-century stronghold for the Knights Templar. Once its order was disbanded, it is said that the Masonic Temple was formed to continue its mission. It is rumoured that King Ferdinand was himself a grand master of the Masonic Order and, as such, influenced much of Sintra’s history as a Masonic centre of power.

Standing guard over the Arches Yard is the sizeable red clock tower atop the old monastery chapel. The chapel’s steeple is embellished with white and emerald green tiles, which beautifully contrast the red and yellow walls and the blue (or grey, in our case) sky.

Chapel

The chapel remains unchanged from its 16th-century design. 22 monks would come to pray here during their time at the monastery. The walls are entirely covered in green and white polychrome tiles, which still shine inside the darkened chapel. In a small alcove are the ornate alabaster and black marble altar made by Nicolau de Chanterene in 1532. The expressions he managed to carve out of the solid marble defy earthly conventions making it feel all the more holy.

Opposite the altar is one of the few remaining original stained glass windows from the monastery. The coloured used within this design is so striking, and it’s hard to believe this piece is a few hundred years old. I loved how quiet it was inside the church; most people skipped it as they rushed in those group tours. But I was glad to have stopped inside as it was a wonderful moment to pause and reflect on the beauty around me.

Wall Walk

The Wall Walk is just down the stairs from the chapel, a small passage leading you around the back of the palace. While the narrow walkway looks over a steep hillside, the brave will be rewarded with one of the most incredible views across Sintra. Standing on this side of the palace, you can see the Moorish Castle on the other side of the forest.

After touring the castle, the cafe on the terrace is a great spot to grab lunch. Although the restaurant here is rather expensive, the cafe is surprisingly cheap, with a selection of delicious Portuguese pastries, sandwiches and more. If you brought your lunch, this is also a good opportunity to break out the picnic. While there might be better places to eat in town, it would take ages to get there and back, so instead, enjoy the great atmosphere around you while enjoying a simple lunch.

Gardens of Pena Park

Follow the map at the bottom of this post to find the pathway through the Gardens of Pena Park, which will take us toward the Moorish Castle. The map they give you when you enter is really confusing, and honestly, as long you’re headed down, you’re probably on the right path. Just keep your eyes open for signs of Moorish Castle. The Gardens of Pena Park have dozens of hidden secrets you’ll stumble upon. Stone couches, glass-walled greenhouses, tiny Islamic gazebos, and dozens of flowers. Compared to the hundreds of people at the palace, these pathways around the gardens feel empty. We were often the only ones there, and despite the confusing map, we had a blast exploring and getting lost all along the way.

The gardens cover over 200 hectares of land around the castle. If you love hiking, you should definitely try to come out here and explore the entirety of the park. This could take you all day and is certainly not for those in a rush, but if you have the time to space, there are many amazing things to discover. We only saw a tiny part of the gardens, but even that was absolutely incredible.

Variety of Flora and Fauna

King Ferdinand wanted this garden to not only exemplify the beauty of Portugal but also plants and flowers from all over the world. You’ll spot everything from Magnolias, Japanese Cryptomeria, Chinese Ginko, American Sequoia, Cypress, Red Cedar, and tree ferns from New Zealand and Australia.

No matter what time of year you come, something is almost always blooming. Finding your way toward the exit can be challenging since the park was designed as a labyrinth. But as long as you’re headed toward the Pena Garden entrance, you’re on the right track!

Moorish Castle

Upon exiting the Gardens of Pena Park, walk about 10 minutes uphill toward the entrance to the Moorish Castle. The Moorish Castle is a stark contrast to Pena Palace. There are no colours to be found here, only the natural grey of the rocks and bright greens of the forest around it. While the entrance to the castle is right off the side of the road, the journey towards the original entry is about a 15-minute walk from there. You’ll stroll along a rolling pathway leading you around the castle walls’ exterior. Look up as you examine the old stone walls above the steep hillside around you.

History of the Moorish Castle

The Moorish Castle is one of the oldest parts of Sintra. It was built in the 8th and 9th centuries by the Moors. The term “Moors” was a general term used to name the Muslim inhabitants of Portugal. They brought with them their rich architectural histories, which generations would continue to be inspired by. In 1147, the Christian forces of the Reconquista fought the Moorish people and took the castle for themselves. It was used for military defence during the 14th century. But eventually, it feels like ruins when it is no longer needed for security. Over the next few hundred years, it became almost completely abandoned. With earthquakes, fires and neglect, many thought the castle would be lost to the ages.

But when King Ferdinand II bought Pena Palace, he also took some interest in the Castle of the Moors. Ferdinand really did have a passion for history. He took it upon himself to start preserving the remains of the castle and rebuilding the portions beyond repair.

Moorish Chapel

Upon entering through the castle’s main gates, you’ll see one of Ferdinand’s new constructions, a small chapel. This chapel contains relics found on the site, some from the Neolithic area (5000 BC). Important artifacts from the 10th-12th century Islamic cultures have also been found and are now on display inside the chapel. Outside the chapel, you can see a glass cover atop the stones displaying replica bones from where bodies were discovered buried beneath the castle floor. The King pointedly collected the bones and placed them in a small tomb. A large stone marks the spot with an engraving which says, “What man has joined only God will set apart.“

Upon entering through the Curtain Wall, to the left of the archway is the site of the old stables. A newly built stylized wooden structure marks the spot where you can grab a hot drink on a cold day or a cold drink on a warm day. Either way, it’s a nice place to recharge to hike up the castle walls.

Phases of Construction

Take a closer look at the walls of the castle. See if you can make out the four distinct different layers of which they’re made up. Each one tells the story of the people who ruled over this structure. The first layer is made of granite blocks which rest on the bedrock over what was once an Islamic house and silos in the 12th century. The second phase was a reconstruction using ancient techniques made in the 12-13th century. The third phase was built in the 19th century when King Ferdinand took possession of the castle and helped with its restoration. The last stage was built in the 20th century when the building became a tourist destination run by the government. Steps were taken to ensure its safety and strength for future generations.

The large open courtyard is called the Pracad de Armas, where the military garrison would gather in the 13th century. When it was remodelled by King Ferdinand later in the 19th century, it was made into a garden oasis space for contemplation. It is still a beautiful area for people to sit and enjoy the view if they cannot manage the hike up the walls.

Exploring the Ruins

We visited on an especially windy day. Despite this, we walked the entire way to the top of the walls for a spectacular panorama of Sintra and Pena Palace. Walking up these walls, you feel like an explorer discovering ancient ruins. When you finally make it to the top, the scene is stupendous. Pena Palace seems so far away; it was hard to imagine that you were standing on that yellow terrace only hours ago.

The walk down from the tower is much more leisurely. Although the landscape is the same going down as it was going up, somehow, it seems different, almost like getting another angle on the entire vista. It’s incredible to observe the lush bushes, trees and flowers that sprout from within the rocks themselves.

Quinta da Regaleira

Next, it’s time to head over to the Quinta da Regaleira. To get to this palace, you can summon an Uber from the Moorish Castle (be warned, this can take some time since the castle is located at the top of a one-way street, we had multiple Ubers cancel but eventually got one. It just takes some patience). The Ubers are extremely well priced at approximately 6-9 euros.

You can also take the bus 434 towards the Palácio Nacional de Sintra and then walk the rest of the way (approx. 13 mins). You can also take the tuk-tuks, which wait outside the Moorish Castle. This is probably the fastest option, they are always waiting there but their speed and availability come at a price (about 5 euros per person). If you’re in a rush, it’s a great option to get around if money isn’t a problem.

History of the Quinta da Regaleira

The Quinta da Regaleira was the summer palace of António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro, or ‘Monteiro the Millionaire’ as he was better known at the time. King Ferdinand made it popular to come and build spectacular palaces in Sintra, and Monteiro wanted in on the trend. So many rich aristocrats were building summer houses in Sintra, but Monteiro wanted his to be jaw-droppingly ornate. He wanted it to be even more fantastical than the King’s palace. Spread across the hillsides of Sintra, Monteiro created a veritable garden of Eden for himself and his family.

Luigi Manini

The palace was designed by the Italian architect Luigi Manini. Upon his visit to the palace, Lord Byron called it “a glorious Eden.” poet L.V. de Camões wrote that it was “an oasis where one could imagine that every pool and stream has nymphs in its waters.” Monteiro believed in primitivism, and as such, the layout of his gardens may have been carefully designed. But the plants were left to grow as they pleased, and in this wildness is where we find some of the most beautiful parts of the palace. The tree spread across the grounds seemed to almost camouflage the buildings below, swallowing them up whole beneath their lush green leaves. Only parts of the structures can be seen peeking out from beneath, giving visitors only clues about where to find those secrets.

Regaleira Chapel

Upon walking in, before visiting the main interior of the palace, first explore the grounds. Standing close to the entrance is the Regaleira Chapel. Its architecture is so similar to the palace’s that it almost looks like a minature version. Inside is a richly decorated interior, with stucco carved into elaborate shapes and decorations dripping off the ceiling. Delicate leaves seem to grow out of the walls, and it feels like if you could reach out and touch them, they would perhaps wilt under pressure. Frescoes depicting Teresa of Ávila and Saint Anthony are painted onto the walls and ceilings. At the same time, the windows are made of brilliant blue stained glass.

Free Masons

On the floor, the richly hued tiles form the shape of the armillary sphere of the Portuguese discoverers. This symbol you’ll more than likely have seen all across Lisbon. The armillary sphere is a model of constellations in the sky which was used to help the Portuguese navigate the globe. These scientific discoveries helped the Portuguese become wealthy explorers. As such, science was almost believed to be just as powerful as religion. And the Free Masons thought science was the guiding light in the world’s darkness. Around the sphere, you’ll see various pentagrams. The pentagram is a five-pointed star often associated with mysticism and the occult. Rumours abound of Monteiro’s association with the Knight Templar. He designed this entire palace as Masonic Temple, and symbolism from their order can be found all over if you know where to look.

God’s Promenade

Continue walking along the path towards the Gods Promenade and grotto. This little area features dozens of statues of classical gods hidden amongst the sweeping greenery. Among the flora, see if you can spot the many cedar and acacia trees which grow in the garden. These trees are of special importance as they were often associated with the Free Masons. Cedars are considered the symbol of eternity as these trees are some of the strongest and longest-living trees on earth. Cedar trees were thought the be what the Temple of Jerusalem and the Ark of the Covenant were made of. Acacia trees are evergreen and, as such, a symbol of the soul’s immortality.

You’ll find secret tunnels throughout the park, some of which have no artificial light, and you need to break out your iPhone flashlight to find your way. I kept wondering if, at one point, we would be turned away or be met with an “off-limits” sign, but that never happened. We were totally left to explore the park-like our own playground. These secret tunnels help lead you to the grounds of the palace. Walk down to the grotto and find your way through the tunnels up the hill, and you might find yourself standing at the bottom of the famed Initiation Well.

Initiation Wells

There are two Initiation Wells located on the property. Even though they are called ‘wells,’ they have never used a water source; their purpose is entirely ritualistic. It is thought that these wells were once more linked to the Knights Templar and mysticism and perhaps used in initiation ceremonial rites. Both of the wells contain a set of winding stairs. In many cultures, these winding stairs are thought to represent both life and rebirth.

The largest well contains nine platforms. These nine levels were thought to symbolize the nine sections of Purgatory and the nine circles of Hell from Dante’s Divine Comedy. At the bottom of the well, as both seen from above and below, is a large compass inlaid over a Knights Templar cross. With symbols like these, it’s hard to ignore all the rumours about the Masonic symbolism in the palace. The smaller well, named the ‘Unfinished Well’ is its walls are rougher and more naturalist, and it feels much more ominous to explore as it was created out of mother earth herself.

Portal of the Guardians

You’ll find the Portal of the Guardians in the centre of the upper portion of the grounds. This building is made of two towers connected by a central pavilion. In the centre are two angry lizards clamouring over a giant conch shell. Above are a series of fillagree above the archway carved into the shape of fish heads. Behind the entrance, you’ll find one of the hidden passageways into the Initiation Well.

You’ll find more mystical influences inside many of the little caves and grottos. Inside this cave, we found the image of the blazing star hanging above the centre of the room, suspiciously anchored to the ceiling with a pulley so the star could be lowered or raised. The blazing star is special for the Knight Templar as it represents man’s knowledge and how intelligence is the secret to bringing light into the darkness. The sun is often seen in areas where a ritual was practised, and it was especially ominous here in the echoing cavern, the eyes of the siren sitting above the fountain the only ones looking back at us.

Interior of the Palace

The final part of the grounds to explore is the palace’s interior. Auspicious gargoyles stare down at any visitors stepping inside, and the greying walls make the otherwise ubiquitous sandstone look very grim. The castle is covered in ornate capital and gothic pinnacles. A fantastical octagonal tower is atop the palace, like the topping to a wedding cake.

The first room is one of the most impressive. The dining room’s main feature is the incredible hunting scene carved into the stucco on the fireplace mantle. Atop the mantle is a statue of a woodsman. Across the room, beautiful hand-painted wallpapers depict more scenes of country life in Portugal. It’s both regal and quaint, all at once. The rest of the rooms are just as ornate, although the use of wood throughout keeps it feeling more like a lodge than a castle.

Village of Sintra

After touring all these famous castles and palaces, it’s finally time to head back into the town of Sintra and explore the tiny streets and hidden alleyways before heading home. You can easily walk from the Quinta da Regaleira into the main part of the village, and the walk is part of the fun! I was amazed at how, as the day wore on and the tourist began to journey back, the city started to open up and once more feel like just another quiet, little village.

There are so many charming cafes and shops in the main parts of town; each one is worth poking your head inside if something catches your eye. Their post office was one of my favourite random places. I stopped in awe at the beautiful tile work that continued throughout the little building.

Outside the Palácio Nacional de Sintra is a great place to take a seat and enjoy the view of the colourful houses stacked on top of each other and look up, way up, to see the walls and towers of the Moorish Castle high above you.

Dinner & Dessert

If you aren’t rushing to get home, it’s worth stopping for dinner in town at Tascantiga. This little cafe covered in red and white gingham table clothes serves traditional Portuguese tapas in a friendly environment where you feel like family the minute you walk in the door.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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For dessert, you must head to the famous Casa Piriquita for the traditional Sintra pastry, Travesseiro de Sintra (or Sintra’s Pillows). These flaky rectangular desserts are stuffed with whipped egg custard and almonds and look like tiny, fluffy pillows. They are the perfect thing to grab and enjoy on your train ride back to the city.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Leaving Sintra

Sintra is incredible; many tourists flock here, but there’s a reason they do. If you come early, you’ll get ahead of the big groups. Whenever you feel like there’s too much of a crowd in one area, it’s usually pretty easy to just wander somewhere else and wait for those clusters to leave. I wish we had chosen to spend a night in town since I would have loved to walk the streets at night when almost all the day-trippers headed home, and you would have the city practically all to yourself. If that works for your schedule, I would definitely recommend doing that. But a whole day in Sintra still was plenty of time for us to see everything on our list at a gentle enough pace to soak it all in.

Have you been to Sintra, or are you planning a trip there? Let me know your favourite spots or any questions you have in the comments!

Happy Travel Adventurers!

The post Explore the Enchanting Castles of Sintra: A One-Day Self-Guided Tour first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.