Table Of Contents

1. Visitor Information
2. Ground Floor: Cabinet de Réception
3. Moreau's Chimeras
4. The Study & Reception Room
5. Dining Room
6. Bedroom
7. Boudoir
8. Hercules Among the Daughters of Thespius
9. Tyrtée chantant pendant le combat
10. The Muses Leaving Their Father Apollo to Go Out and Light the World
11. The Chimeras
12. Leda and Jupiter
13. Jupiter and Semele
14. The Life of Humanity
15. The Unicorns

Who Was Gustave Moreau?

Born in Paris in 1826, Gustave Moreau was a pivotal figure in the Symbolist movement. Raised in a cultured household, his father an architect, his mother a musician, Moreau’s childhood was embedded with classical literature and the visual arts. After studying at the École des Beaux-Arts, he developed a distinctive style that fused biblical, mythological, and literary themes with intricate details and jewel-toned palettes. His work, often described as dreamlike and esoteric, influenced a generation of artists, including Henri Matisse and Georges Rouault.

Symbolist Style

Gustave Moreau’s art style is best described as Symbolist, though his work transcends easy categorization. At its heart, Symbolism was a reaction against realism and naturalism, aiming instead to express the intangible: dreams, emotions, spiritual truths, and the mysteries of myth and religion. Moreau embodied this movement with an almost obsessive intensity.

His paintings are lush, fantastical, and densely layered with allegorical meaning. You’ll often find figures from Greek, Biblical, or literary sources, Orpheus, Salome, Oedipus, and others, placed in otherworldly settings teeming with jewel-toned detail. Rather than narrate myths straightforwardly, Moreau reimagines them through his own psychological and spiritual lens. His compositions are ornate and sometimes deliberately ambiguous, filled with intricate patterns, golden halos, and surreal architecture that blurs the line between the divine and the dreamlike.

A Museum Born from a Vision

In 1895, Moreau began converting his family home at 14 Rue de La Rochefoucauld into a museum dedicated to his life’s work. He meticulously designed the space to showcase his paintings, drawings, and personal artifacts, ensuring that future generations could experience his art in its intended context. Upon his death in 1898, he bequeathed the house and its contents to the French state, stipulating that the collection remain intact.

Ground Floor: Cabinet de Réception

Your journey begins on the ground floor, and you enter the various rooms which have been transformed into the Cabinet de Réception, or reception room. Each of the six rooms serves as a modern cabinet of curiosities. But rather than the walls being lined with shelves holding collections of strange, rare, and wondrous objects, the rooms are stacked with over 400 paintings, hundreds of drawings, and an exceptional collection of watercolours.

The paintings spanning his entire career, from dramatic works like Lady Macbeth, inspired by Shakespeare, to more experimental pieces like a delicate, almost abstract Bathsheba. So by now, you might be thinking, how on earth can only six rooms hold so many paintings? Well, the answer is that there are hidden cupboards, pivoting display panels, and even doorways that open to reveal more paintings inside. It’s like discovering a secret archive within the museum walls.

Moreau’s Chimeras

One of the most recurring figures in Moreau’s work is the chimera, a creature reimagined far beyond its classical origins. Rather than the traditional lion-goat-serpent hybrid, Moreau’s chimeras often have the hindquarters of a horse and broad, shadowy wings, combining elements from various animals into something fantastical and wholly his own. In French, the word chimère also suggests an unattainable dream or illusion, adding another layer of meaning. Moreau often used these beings to symbolize woman as the embodiment of unconscious desire and the magnetic pull of the unknown. In Les Chimères, the women aren’t passive muses but active participants in their own fantasies and illusions. Through his layered symbolism and exquisite detail, Moreau invites us to reflect on the dualities at the heart of human experience: beauty and danger, illusion and truth, desire and destruction.

First Floor; The Sentimental Museum

The Study & Reception Room

After taking in the treasures of the ground floor, make your way upstairs to discover the rooms preserved just as they were when Gustave Moreau lived here, his former apartment, frozen in time. The study or library is a testament to Moreau’s intellectual pursuits. Lined with bookshelves filled with volumes on art, mythology, and literature, the room also houses a substantial desk where the artist would have engaged in reading and writing. Personal artifacts, including sketches and correspondence, are displayed, offering a deeper understanding of Moreau’s scholarly interests and artistic inspirations.

A standout is the glass case with brass doors, home to ancient ceramics and two striking kraters from the tomb of an Apulian princess, part of a collection once owned by his father, Louis. Scattered among these are small bronzes, plaster casts, and intaglio reproductions that Moreau often referenced in his work. The adjoining library shelves are stacked with 16th- and 17th-century architectural treatises, Vitruvius, Serlio, Vignola, many from his architect father’s collection. One highlight is a beautifully illustrated 1836 edition of Flaxman’s work, a major influence on Moreau’s style.

Dining Room

Continue into the house, you stop by the dining room, which stands out with its distinctive sea-green and red walls, a colour choice that adds a serene yet sophisticated ambiance. The room is furnished with a polished wooden dining table surrounded by matching chairs, and the walls are embellished with decorative mouldings and framed artworks.

Bedroom

Moreau’s bedroom is small, featuring a modest bed with an ornate headboard, a writing desk, and various personal items. The room is illuminated by natural light filtering through lace-curtained windows, casting a gentle glow on the patterned wallpaper and antique furnishings. One the wall are paintings of his family, many of his mother and family, and one beautiful self-portrait.

Boudoir

Adjacent to the bedroom is the boudoir, a small yet elegant room designed for relaxation and contemplation. Furnished with a comfortable armchair, a delicate writing table, and adorned with decorative objects and artworks, the boudoir reflects Moreau’s penchant for creating spaces that inspire creativity and introspection.

The Second-floor workshop

Climbing to the second floor, I stepped into the first of Moreau’s grand studios, purpose-built in 1895 by architect Albert Lafon at the artist’s request, specifically to display his monumental canvases. The scale of the room alone is breathtaking, made to house Moreau’s most ambitious and deeply symbolic works. This studio is where you feel Moreau pushing the limits of painting, not just in scale, but in the emotional and mythological weight of every image.

Hercules Among the Daughters of Thespius

Moreau likely began Hercules Among the Daughters of Thespius around 1853 and though he enlarged the painting in 1882, Moreau never fully completed it, calling it a work still in progress. The composition draws heavily from Théodore Chassériau’s Tepidarium, which Moreau admired. But his version of this rarely depicted myth, too risqué for many, is deeply personal. Here, the young Hercules, fresh from slaying the lion of Cithaeron, prepares to father children with all 50 daughters of King Thespius, offered to him in gratitude.

Moreau freezes the moment before this mythic act of generation. Hercules sits contemplative, echoing Michelangelo in form and mood. Behind him rise two pedestals bearing sun and moon symbols, bulls and sphinxes, representing the dual forces of life and creation. The daughters drift around him, some asleep, others lost in reverie. For Moreau, this isn’t just a sensual episode, it’s spiritual, almost sacrificial. Hercules, he writes, is “filled with immense sadness… and the solemn exultation of one who gives life, bound by destiny to acts of creation and sacrifice alike.”

Tyrtée chantant pendant le combat

As I turned the corner into the studio, I found myself face to face with something monumental, Tyrtée chantant pendant le combat. The sheer scale of it stopped me in my tracks. Stretching nearly two stories tall, it felt less like a painting and more like a portal into an ancient world, where poetry and battle collide in a moment of raw, mythic power.

The scene centres on Tyrtaeus, the semi-legendary Spartan poet-soldier, raised above the chaos of war, singing amidst the clash of spears and shields. Though his body is dwarfed by the canvas, his presence is magnetic. With arms outstretched and face lifted skyward, he becomes a conduit for divine inspiration—his voice both battle cry and hymn.

What struck me most was the stillness around him. In a swirl of movement, soldiers frozen mid-charge, horses rearing, limbs tangled, Tyrtaeus stands serenely unshaken. Moreau captures not just the violence of war, but its spiritual theatre: this isn’t just combat, it’s a stage where art uplifts the soul and lends purpose to struggle.

The Muses Leaving Their Father Apollo to Go Out and Light the World

The Muses Leaving Their Father Apollo to Go Out and Light the World captures the moment when the nine Muses depart from their father, Apollo, to fulfill their divine mission of inspiring and enlightening humanity through the arts and sciences. In this composition, Apollo is portrayed with a serene yet commanding presence, seated at an elevated position as he oversees his daughters’ departure. The Muses, depicted as graceful and ethereal figures, embody various artistic and scholarly domains. Some of them look back to Apollo, fearful of departing, while others look down as if resigned to their fate. Moreau captures a wonderfully human moment of emotion from the gods here in this painting.

The Chimeras

To the left of the staircase stands one of the unfinished masterpieces of the collection, Les Chimeras. Gustave Moreau’s Les Chimères (The Chimaeras), was painted in 1884, a painting that deptcts a mythic, dreamlike forest teeming with nude female figures and fantastical hybrid creatures, centaurs, winged beasts, fauns, and minotaurs. It’s a visual tapestry of illusion, desire, and the untamed recesses of the human psyche.

At the centre, Lust rides a goat; nearby, a mysterious Eve-like figure embraces a serpent with a human face. On the right, women appear with mythic creatures: Europa astride a winged bull, another caressing a unicorn, reminiscent of The Lady and the Unicorn tapestries. One woman pauses to listen as an angel whispers music into her ear.

The composition is both lyrical and chaotic, with women dispersed across a shadowy, enchanted landscape. Unlike passive muses, these women are active participants in their own surreal visions, locked in silent communion with their mythological companions. Some embrace their chimera-like counterparts, others appear lost in reverie, their expressions unreadable. The setting, part wilderness, part stage, evokes a world that is both ancient and psychological, where every figure and form is charged with symbolic weight.

Leda and Jupiter

The myth of Leda and Jupiter, who seduced her in the form of a swan, has long captivated artists seeking a poetic excuse to explore this salacious tale. Moreau, too, was drawn to its sensual and symbolic layers. For his 1865 version, he recalled a lost Michelangelo Leda, known through a sculpture by Ammannati, of which Moreau owned a plaster cast. But his Leda is more than mythic seduction; she’s rendered with a spiritual ambiguity, evoking both the Virgin of the Annunciation and the Queen in a Coronation. Earthly Love flutters away in triumph, while two winged spirits lift Jupiter’s thunderbolt and diadem, symbols of divine authority, beside his eagle. Below, fauns, dryads, and nymphs kneel in reverence. Even Pan, the embodiment of nature itself, gestures solemnly, summoning all life to witness this cosmic union, a mystery at once erotic, sacred, and eternal.

Third Floor Studio

Make your way up the winding spiral staircase to the third floor which features another grouping of some of Moreau’s best and most sprawling works of art.

Jupiter and Semele

The third-floor studio begins with a showstopper: Jupiter and Semele, painted in 1895 for Léopold Goldschmidt and later gifted to the museum. This towering, radiant canvas commands the room with its electric palette of deep blues, fiery reds, and gleaming greens. At its heart is the myth of Semele, who, tricked by the jealous goddess Juno, asks to see Jupiter in his divine form, an overwhelming vision that destroys her. Semele is shown obliterated in a blaze of divine splendour, while a winged figure, possibly the goat-footed spirit of earthly love, or Bacchus, her unborn son, shields his eyes. Moreau reimagines Jupiter as a youthful, beardless poet-god, cradling a lyre like Apollo.

Beneath the throne, Death wields a bloody sword and Pain wears a crown of thorns, holding a lily, symbols of suffering at the root of human experience. Nearby, Pan, half-goat, stirs with tiny beings struggling to break free, bridging the mortal world with the shadowy depths below. At the base, Night emerges crowned by a crescent moon, surrounded by monsters of Erebus, enigmas still waiting for the light. Twin sphinxes flank the scene, guardians of past and future. From darkness to divine radiance, the painting unfolds vertically like a spiritual ascent, a journey of the soul through myth, mystery, and transcendence.

The Life of Humanity

The Life of Humanity was our favourite painting, a towering polyptych composed of nine panels arranged in three tiers, crowned by a lunette depicting a bloodied Christ, an image of suffering and redemption that frames the entire cycle. In the top row, Adam represents the innocence of childhood: morning prayer, midday ecstasy, and evening rest. The middle tier is devoted to youth, with Orpheus at its heart, flanked by Hesiod, who appears at morning (inspiration) and evening (grief), while Orpheus sings at noon, surrounded by listening animals and the guiding muse Melpomene. The final row descends into the iron weight of adulthood: Cain, symbolizing work, fatigue, and death.

Moreau explained this progression as the arc of all human life: purity (Adam), poetic longing (Orpheus), and suffering (Cain), redeemed ultimately through Christ. The lush, pastoral scenes draw on Hesiod’s mountainous homeland, and Orpheus stands as a figure of balance and beauty. In the final panel, Hesiod grieves, abandoned by his muse, perhaps a nod to the poet’s retreat from epic tales to quiet moral reflection.

Interestingly, Moreau included Orpheus, a pagan figure, between two biblical icons. He believed Orpheus better embodied youth and creative genius than any religious counterpart, calling it “far more intelligent” to choose a figure born of art and imagination over one rooted solely in faith.

The Unicorns

“I saw one of the most beautiful things I’ve ever seen!” wrote collector Émile Straus on July 14, 1887, after stepping out of Gustave Moreau’s studio and laying eyes on The Unicorns. I can only imagine the spell it must have cast when it was first on display. The painting itself is a luminous dream, clearly inspired by The Lady and the Unicorn tapestries, which had recently been acquired by the Cluny Museum in 1882. In pursuit of what he called “necessary richness,” Moreau blends medieval and Renaissance motifs, sometimes even borrowing from illustrated journals like Le Magasin pittoresque. He once described the setting as “an enchanted island, inhabited only by women, a perfect excuse for every ornamental flourish imaginable.”

In this strange, sumptuous realm, princesses draped in lavish robes embrace unicorns that remain calm and aloof. One woman clutches a lily and a gleaming sword; another’s dress is embroidered with mythical creatures and scenes of epic combat, including Saint George slaying the dragon. A chalice sits quietly in the corner, perhaps the Grail, adding yet another layer of mystery. What strikes me most is the tension Moreau creates between line and colour. The drawing feels delicate and restrained, while the colours shimmer with life, creating a visual rhythm that’s both intricate and elusive. The Unicorns is one of Moreau’s most spellbinding works, a painting that doesn’t reveal itself easily, but stays with you, lingering like a half-remembered dream.

Every inch of this museum reflects Moreau’s singular world, obsessively symbolic, richly detailed, and deeply personal. For those seeking something off the typical museum path, a visit to the Musée Gustave Moreau feels less like a tour and more like stepping into the dreamscape of a forgotten genius!

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Tour of the Musée Gustave Moreau first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Self-Guided Museum Tour

The Templo Mayor consists of an outdoor Archaeological Zone where the remaining foundations of the original buildings can be seen. Across the site is the Templo Mayor Museum, divided into eight main exhibition rooms. Throughout this space, the Museum highlights aspects of Aztec life and culture and stories told through various artifacts discovered inside this historic site.

Table Of Contents

1. Self-Guided Museum Tour
2. Phase IV
3. Coatepantil
4. Coyolxauhqui Monument
5. Frog Altar
6. Stage III
7. House of Eagles / Casa de las Águilas
8. Tzompantil Altar
9. North Red Temple
10. Temple of Tlaloc
11. Chacmool Statue
12. Collector de Agua
13. Tlaltecuhtli
14. Room 1 – Historical Background
15. Room 2 – War and Sacrifice
16. Room 3 – Tribute and Trade
17. Room 4 – Huitzilopochtli
18. Room 5 – Tlaloc
19. Room 6 – Flora and Fauna
20. Room 7 – Agriculture
21. Room 8 – Historical Archeology

Tips on Visiting Templo Mayor

Hours & Admission

The Museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. and is Closed on Mondays. Access to the Museum and Archaeological Zone costs $95 Mexican pesos per person ($5 USD). Children under 13 years of age, students, and seniors are free if they can present their current identification.

Sundays offer free admission, but be aware that this is the busiest day at the Museum, with long lines at the entrance. Currently, there is no option for easy online ticket sales for those living outside Mexico.

How to Get to the Templo Mayor

Accessing Templo Mayor is convenient and straightforward. Located in the heart of Mexico City, Templo Mayor is situated just off the Zócalo, the city’s main square, in the Historic Centre. Visitors can easily reach the site by taking the Metro to the Zócalo station (Line 2) and walking a short distance to the entrance. Additionally, there are several bus routes and taxis available, making it accessible from various parts of the city.

What to Wear / Bring

I’d recommend at least two hours, if not three, for a thorough visit. Because a section of the Museum is outside, you’ll want to dress for the weather with a good wide-brim sun hat in the summer, lots of sunscreen and bottled water. If the weather calls for rain, try to go to the museum part first, as this is indoors and head back outside once the rain has passed. Many areas of the archeological zone are rough underfoot so wear comfortable walking shoes.

History of the Templo Mayor

Construction on the Templo Mayor began in the 14th century. It was located in the center of the Aztec capital city of Tenochtitlan, now modern-day Mexico City. According to legend, the Aztecs were guided to this spot by their god, Huitzilopochtli, who instructed them to build their city, where they saw an eagle perched on a cactus eating a snake. This image is now so crucial to the Mexican people that it is depicted on the Mexican national flag.

The Templo Mayor’s design consisted of two grand pyramids dedicated to the Aztec Gods Huitzilopochtli, the god of war and the sun, and Tláloc, the god of rain and fertility. The two temples were connected by a double staircase, and the entire complex was surrounded by a large plaza. For the Mexica, the Templo Mayor held the central position in their cosmology, symbolizing the heart of the universe and making its location immutable. Consequently, whenever they sought to expand it, they constructed a new edifice atop the existing one, maintaining its core features: two chapels at the summit and a dual staircase on the main façade. This process was repeated at least seven times, meaning layers of hidden histories are inside.

The shape of the buildings in the Templo Mayor complex was divided into four quadrants, which mirrored the axis mundi of the universe. Today, nothing remains of the pyramids, but the lower-level plaza or sacred precinct and the decorations that adorned this area are what remains to explore.

Aztec Life and Culture

The Aztecs were renowned for their complex social, political, and religious systems and impressive architectural and engineering achievements. They had highly developed advanced agricultural techniques, including chinampas (floating gardens), which allowed them to sustain a large population. Their economy was based on agriculture, tribute from conquered regions, and a vibrant market system. Over the next two centuries, Tenochtitlán grew into a powerful city-state that dominated the Valley of Mexico and beyond. The Aztecs formed the Triple Alliance with the city-states of Texcoco and Tlacopan, expanding their influence through conquest and trade.

The Aztecs spoke Nahuatl, which is still spoken by around 1.5 million people in Mexico today. They used a system of pictographic writing to record historical events, religious rituals, and daily life. Codices, or illustrated manuscripts, are valuable sources of information about Aztec culture.

Aztec Religion

The Aztecs had a polytheistic religion with a pantheon of gods, each associated with different aspects of life and nature. Their religious beliefs were deeply intertwined with their cosmology, which envisioned the universe as a precarious balance of forces requiring constant appeasement through rituals and sacrifices.

One of the most striking aspects of Aztec religion was the practice of human sacrifice. This was seen as essential to appease the gods and ensure the continuity of the world. The Templo Mayor was dedicated to Huitzilopochtli and Tláloc, two important gods in the Aztec concept of atl-tlachinolli. Atl-tlachinolli, symbolizing the duality of water and fire, is central to Aztec cosmology and intricately tied to their tradition of human sacrifice. Representing the balance between life and death, creation and destruction, atl-tlachinolli underscores the belief that human blood and hearts were necessary offerings to nourish the gods and maintain cosmic order. This duality is reflected in the rituals held at the Templo Mayor, where sacrifices were made to ensure the fertility of the land, the success of military endeavours, and the overall harmony of the universe. The Mexica sought to sustain the gods and renew the cosmos through this practice.

The Fall of Tenochtitlán

After a series of battles and a devastating siege, Tenochtitlán fell to the Spanish in 1521, and the Templo Mayor’s destruction symbolized the Aztec civilization’s collapse. The Spanish built their new city on top of the ruins of Tenochtitlan, which eventually became Mexico City. Not wanting to waste precious material nearly, the Spanish tore apart the pyramids and used pieces of stone from the myriads to construct the new Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral. After tearing down the great pyramids, the rest of the Templo Mayor lay buried beneath the new city for centuries, and its existence was largely forgotten.

Archaeological Zone & Sacred Precinct

The ruins of the Templo Mayor were discovered in 1978 during electrical work near the Zócalo in Mexico City. Workers unearthed a large stone disk depicting the goddess Coyolxauhqui. This significant find led to extensive excavations by the Mexican National Institute of Anthropology and History, revealing the temple’s twin pyramids and numerous artifacts.

Phase IV

When you enter the Sacred Precinct, you will walk around a series of pathways that guide you around the Archeological Zone. The first area you enter is called Phase IV, constructed in AD 1469-1481 during the reign of Axayacatl, the sixth tlatoani or lord of Tenochtitlan. One of the first buildings you will see is the platform, which is all that remains of one of the two great shines. This platform is decorated with stone carvings of writhing serpents that retain some of their original painted colourings, demonstrating how vibrant these temple complexes would have been when they were first created.

Coatepantil

In addition to the undulating serpents, you can see the Coatepantil, or “wall of serpents,” where carvings of snakes’ heads protrude from the walls. Serpents are so important to the symbology of the Templo Mayor because they are connected with the mythical hill of serpents, Coatepec. According to Mexica mythology, the god Huitzilopochtli was born at Coatepec. At Coatepec, Huitzilopochtli defeated his siblings, including his sister Coyolxauhqui, who had plotted to kill their mother, Coatlicue.

Coyolxauhqui Monument

Atop this platform once stood the great carving of Coyolxauhqui. Today, you can see a recreation of the stone tablet, the original of which can be found inside the museum exhibition space. Coyolxauhqui was a significant deity in Aztec mythology. She was the moon goddess and the sister of Huitzilopochtli, the god of war and the sun. According to the myth, Coyolxauhqui led her 400 brothers, the Centzon Huitznahua (representing the stars), in a rebellion against their mother, Coatlicue. After a ball of feathers touched her, Coatlicue became miraculously pregnant with Huitzilopochtli.

Angered and ashamed by this miraculous pregnancy, Coyolxauhqui and her siblings decided to kill their mother. However, as they attacked, Huitzilopochtli sprang fully armed from his mother’s womb and defeated his siblings. He dismembered Coyolxauhqui, throwing her head into the sky to become the moon. The dismembered depiction of Coyolxauhqui on the stone illustrates her violent end and reinforces Huitzilopochtli’s power and the importance of the Templo Mayor as a site of mythological and religious significance for the Aztecs.

Frog Altar

In this area, look for a pair of frog sculptures in the middle of the shrine, where they appeared on a small altar. The frogs would originally have been painted blue, as they were associated with the water god Tlalc due to their natural connection to water and their behaviour during the rainy season, which aligns with Tlaloc’s domain. Frogs are often seen as harbingers of rain because they become more active and vocal during the rainy season, emerging in large numbers after rainfall. This natural behaviour made them symbols of water, fertility, and the life-giving properties of rain, all under Tlaloc’s purview.

Stage III

Leaning on the stairs in Stage II is a series of human-looking figures leaning against the south side of the building. Centzonhuītznāhua, also known as the “Four Hundred Southerners,” represent the stars of the southern sky and the siblings of Huitzilopochtli, the Mexica god of war and the sun. In Mexica mythology, these deities plotted to kill their mother, Coatlicue but were defeated by Huitzilopochtli at his birth, symbolizing the sun’s triumph over the stars and night. Their defeat highlights the importance of conflict and sacrifice in maintaining cosmic order and balance, key themes in Mexica’s belief.

House of Eagles / Casa de las Águilas

One of the shrines still present on the site is the House of Eagles, named after the two eagle heads that flank the exterior of the building, as well as the discovery of several Eagle night statues, men dressed in armour that resemble eagles, which can be seen inside the museum exhibition. Inside the House of Eagles, the walls are decorated with paintings depicting a procession of men, a ritual of penitence, and the rite of self-mutilation.

The House of Eagles served was a vital center for the elite Eagle and Jaguar Warriors, where they convened to deliberate on military strategies and conduct exclusive religious rites. Within its sacred confines, these warriors offered human blood before the idols of Mictlantecuhtli, the Lord of Death, in ceremonies to appease the gods and ensure their favour in battle. Additionally, the precinct was accessible to the Cuahchicqueh, or Shorn Warriors, who also played a significant role in these sacred and strategic gatherings.

Also, inside the house of the eagles, in a room, you can find a four-petaled flower carving with the image of five chalchihuites, precious stones, or jades carved atop it. Chalchihuites, or precious green stones such as jade and turquoise, held profound significance in Mexica culture, as they symbolized wealth, fertility, and divine favour. These stones were highly valued not only for their beauty but also for their symbolic meanings and spiritual associations. As symbols of wealth and high status, chalchihuites indicated prosperity and social prestige, often adorning the elite, including rulers and high-ranking warriors, in elaborate jewelry, headdresses, and ceremonial costumes.

Tzompantil Altar

Continuing to the southeast, you can look at the Tzompantil Altar or the Altar of the Skulls. Tzompantli, or skull racks, were used to exhibit the severed heads of sacrificial victims, often warriors captured in battle, as offerings to the gods. The altar itself was an imposing and macabre sight, with wooden poles and crossbeams filled with rows of skulls, each meticulously arranged to maximize visibility. This display served both religious and socio-political purposes: it was a powerful symbol of Mexica military prowess and a stark reminder of the consequences of opposing their rule.

The Tzompantli Altar was closely associated with the worship of Huitzilopochtli, the god of war and the sun, and Mictlantecuhtli, the god of death. Sacrificial rituals conducted at the Templo Mayor were believed to nourish these deities and ensure the continued prosperity and balance of the cosmos. The skulls displayed on the Tzompantli were thought to carry the life force necessary to sustain the gods and, by extension, the Mexica people. This practice underscored the Mexica belief in the cyclical nature of life and death, where the death of captives and sacrificial victims was essential for the regeneration of life and the maintenance of cosmic order.

North Red Temple

The North Red Temple to the east of the Altar of Skulls is a beautiful example of Teotihuacan-style architecture. Inside this shrine is an altar with a relief carved into the front depicting a scene of bodily scarification or self-mutilation using a ball of hay covered in agave thorns. This temple was consecrated to the god Xochipilli. Xochipilli, known as the “Flower Prince,” is a prominent deity in Mexica mythology associated with flowers, love, art, games, beauty, dance, and song. Xochipilli’s name reflects his connection to pleasure and creative expression. Xochipilli is depicted surrounded by flowers and holding objects related to art and beauty, symbolizing fertility and the natural world’s aesthetics.

Temple of Tlaloc

The oldest remnants found in the sacred precinct can be seen outside in stage II, built in 1390. These areas contain the remnants of the Temple of Tlaloc to the north and the Temple of Huitzilopochtli to the south.

Chacmool Statue

At the top center of the Tlaloc temple is a sculpture of a male figure painted in blue and red. This type of sculpture is called a chacmool. A chacmool statue is a distinctive type of Mesoamerican sculpture that features a reclining figure with its head turned to one side, and its knees drawn up. Its elbows rest on the ground, supporting a plate or a bowl on its stomach or chest. These statues are found throughout various Mesoamerican cultures, including the Mexica, Maya, and Toltec civilizations, and they served important ritualistic functions, particularly in sacrificial ceremonies.

The primary purpose of a chacmool was to act as a receptacle for offerings, which often included human hearts or blood, food, incense, and other valuable items intended for the gods. Positioned prominently in temples or other sacred spaces, the chacmool’s bowl or plate was used to hold these offerings during religious rituals. The posture of the figure, with its head turned to the side and its serene expression, suggests a state of receptiveness and submission, reinforcing its role as a conduit between the human and divine realms, a concept that was central to Mesoamerican spirituality.

The Brasero Tlaloc

One of the most impressive objects found in the sacred precinct is the Tlaloc Brazier. The polychrome statue was used in rituals to honour the god Tlaloc and ensure the provision of rain necessary for crop growth and agricultural fertility. The image of Tlaloc is wearing a headdress and a diadem of chalchihuites or precious stones and crowned in feathers.

One of the best ways to identify the god Tlaloc is by the circular and bold eye rings. The practical implications of these rituals, such as ensuring agricultural fertility, were a testament to the deep understanding and application of natural principles in Mesoamerican culture.

Temple of Huitzilopochtli

Right beside the temple of Tlaloc is the Temple of Huitzilopochtli. Huitzilopochtli was the god of war and the sun, and the Temple of Huitzilopochtli is characterized by its imposing and elaborate architecture, which reflects the importance of the deity it honours. It was a stepped pyramid, rising in several tiers, and accessed by a grand staircase leading to the summit temple. This elevated position symbolized Huitzilopochtli’s paramount role in the Mexica pantheon as the protector of the Mexica people and the bringer of the sun.

Rituals and ceremonies at the Temple of Huitzilopochtli were central to Mexica religious life. These rituals often involved human sacrifices, which were believed necessary to nourish the sun god and ensure the continuation of the world. Victims, often captured warriors, were sacrificed atop the temple, with their hearts offered to Huitzilopochtli and their bodies sometimes thrown down the steps of the pyramid. These practices were intended to demonstrate the Mexica’s devotion to Huitzilopochtli and to secure his favour in their military endeavours.

Collector de Agua

As you approach the indoor museum and exhibition areas, you will pass under the various excavated collector de agua, which were the Mexica people’s system to manage and utilize water within the temple complex. This system was essential for both practical and ceremonial purposes, reflecting the importance of water in Mexica religion and daily life. The Templo Mayor’s water collection system included channels, cisterns, and reservoirs designed to capture and store rainwater. These structures ensured a reliable water supply for the temple’s various needs, including cleansing rituals, offerings to the gods, and possibly even the daily use of priests and temple workers. The system’s design demonstrated Mexica’s advanced engineering skills and ability to create functional infrastructure that integrated seamlessly with their religious practices.

Templo Mayor Museum Exhibition Walkthrough

The Templo Mayor Museum exhibition space houses an extensive and diverse collection of artifacts providing comprehensive insight into the Mexica civilization, particularly its religious, cultural, and social practices. The Templo Mayor Museum houses an impressive collection of over 7,000 objects discovered during excavations of the Templo Mayor site in Mexico City. These artifacts include effigies, clay pots, skeletons of various animals, snail shells, coral, gold, alabaster, Mixtec figures, ceramic urns from Veracruz, masks from Guerrero, and copper rattles.

Tlaltecuhtli

When you enter the space, look down from the top of the lobby into the space below, where you can see an imposing statue of the Earth Goddess, Tlaltecuhtli. Tlaltecuhtli, often called the “Earth Lord,” is a significant deity in Mexica mythology, representing the earth and its fertility. Tlaltecuhtli is typically depicted as a monstrous figure with gaping jaws and a body covered in various creatures, symbolizing the earth’s voracious appetite for life and death. This deity is associated with both creation and destruction, embodying the earth’s power to give life through fertility and to reclaim it through death. The Mexica believed that human sacrifices were necessary to appease Tlaltecuhtli, ensuring the fertility of the land and the continuation of life. This monolith weighed almost 12 tons and was once at the foot of the Templo Mayor.

Room 1 – Historical Background

The first room inside the museum provides a historical overview of the temple’s significance, construction, and role in Mexica society. It includes a detailed model of the Templo Mayor complex, maps of the ancient city, and informative panels explaining the temple’s dual dedication to Huitzilopochtli, the god of war, and Tlaloc, the god of rain and agriculture. In addition, a collection of over 100 different offerings deposited by the Mexicas was unearthed during the excavation.

Room 2 – War and Sacrifice

This room delves into the Sacred Precinct, or the ceremonial heart of Tenochtitlan, where the Templo Mayor was located. Artifacts include ceremonial offerings to the gods to gain good favour and improve crops and victory in war. Funerary offerings such as musical instruments, knives, skulls, braziers and green stone masks are displayed throughout the room.

Room 3 – Tribute and Trade

The third room highlights the Mexica people’s economic, political, and military domination from 1430 to 1519 and the objects related to the pochtecas. The financial power of the Mexica people was primarily due to the pochtecas, who were professional merchants and traders in the Aztec Empire. They travelled long distances to procure luxury goods such as precious stones, feathers, cacao, and exotic textiles, which were highly valued by the elite. Besides their commercial activities, pochteca acted as spies and diplomats, gathering intelligence on rival states and facilitating regional communication. Their wealth and specialized knowledge afforded them a high status within the Mexica society, and they operated within organized guilds that maintained strict regulations and traditions.

Room 4 – Huitzilopochtli

In this room were found pieces related to the god Huitzilopochtli. You’ll also find a ceramic sculpture of an eagle warrior once housed inside the House of Eagles and a series of stone sculptures representing the Centrzonhuitznahua, Huitzilopochtli’s brothers. These are the same sculptures as you would have seen recreations of outside. The Centzonhuitznahua, also known as the “Four Hundred Southerners,” were stars in the southern sky and, along with their sister Coyolxauhqui, plotted to kill their mother, Coatlicue, after she became miraculously pregnant with Huitzilopochtli. However, Huitzilopochtli was born fully armed and defeated his siblings, symbolizing the sun’s triumph over the stars and the moon. This myth underscores the cosmic struggle between light and darkness in Mexica cosmology.

One of the most important pieces in this room is a stone sculpture of fire serpent, Xiuhcoatl, Huitzilopochtli’s weapon. Xiuhcoatl, which translates to “Turquoise Serpent” or “Fire Serpent,” is the weapon wielded by Huitzilopochtli. This mythical serpent is often depicted as a snake-shaped weapon, symbolizing fire and solar power.

The Old Gods

Another two gods important to Aztec culture can be found here. The old god of fire, Huehueteotle, is depicted here. Huehueteotl is a deity representing the ancient and enduring aspects of fire. Often depicted as a wizened old man carrying a brazier, Huehueteotl symbolizes the life-sustaining and transformative power of fire, crucial for warmth, cooking, and rituals. His imagery often shows him with a solemn expression, emphasizing his connection to the ancient past and the cyclical nature of time.

There is also a sculpture of Mictlantecuhtli, the god of the dead. Mictlantecuhtli was the ruler of Mictlan, the underworld. Often depicted as a skeletal figure adorned with bones and jewelry, he embodies death and the afterlife. His domain is the final destination for most souls, where the dead journey through nine levels of challenges to reach rest. Mictlantecuhtli’s imagery, with a skull face and empty eye sockets, emphasizes his association with death, darkness, and the inevitable end of life, playing a crucial role in Mexica beliefs about mortality and the afterlife.

Between rooms 4-5, you can see the original monolith of the goddess Coyolxauhqui. This carving is over 3.2 meters wide and is one of the best examples of Aztec art.

Room 5 – Tlaloc

Inside this room are all the objects gathered that represent the god of Rain, Tlaloc, and objects related to water, harvest, and fertility. Despite Mexico City being in the centre of the country, there are a surprising number of marine symbols present, such as conch shells carved from volcanic stone and fish carved from mother of pearl.

Room 6 – Flora and Fauna

In room six, you can see examples of the ecological environment unique to Mexico and Mexico City. Plants and animals were always a large part of the symbolism in art and the codices of the Aztecs, and many animals were thought to be manifestations of the gods themselves. These exhibition spaces show the viewers the kind of diversity there was in ancient Teotihuacan.

Room 7 – Agriculture

One of the most ingenious and significant innovations that propelled the Mexica people’s empire was the use of chinampas. These Mexican chinampas, a form of ancient agricultural system, transformed the shallow lakes of the Valley of Mexico into fertile lands. The creation of these ‘floating gardens’ involved piling mud and vegetation into rectangular, raised beds separated by canals, anchored by willow trees, and cultivated with maize, beans, squash, and tomatoes. This pioneering technique enabled year-round agriculture, high productivity, and efficient water management, playing a pivotal role in sustaining large urban populations like Tenochtitlan.

Throughout this room, there are also many objects associated with various gods associated with agriculture, such as Chalchiuhtlicue, Chicomecoatl, and Xipe-Totex.

Room 8 – Historical Archeology

The last room in the exhibition space details the arrival of the Spanish in 1591 and the subsequent horrific conquest in 1521. The objects inside these parts of the museum demonstrate the stark differences between the Spanish and Aztec cultures and the eventual war that would erupt between them.

I hope you have enjoyed our visit to the Templo Mayor Museum, and throughout this self-guided tour, you’ve gained profound insights into the rich cultural and religious tapestry of the Mexica civilization. The architectural and artistic achievements of the Mexica people found inside the ruins of the Templo Mayor help connect you to the timeless legacy of one of Mexico City’s most significant historical sites.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Your Complete Self-Guided Tour of the Templo Mayor, One Of The Best Museums In Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

The Museo Casa Estudio has been remarkably preserved and restored. It is open for visitors to come inside and explore, a chance to step into the intimate spaces where Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo painted, entertained and simply existed together, as apart. Come with us as we explore the entirety of the Museo Casa Estudio and learn more about the artists who lived here and the man who built this revolutionary property!

Guide to the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo

1. Location & Access
2. Admission & Hours
3. About Diego Rivera
4. About Frida Kahlo
5. Juan O'Gorman
6. Modernist Architecture
   • Functionalism
7. Designing the Casa Estudio
   • Life inside the Casa Estudio
   • Studio as Museum
8. Exterior Foyer
   • The Bathrooms
9. Diego's House
   • 2nd Floor Bedroom
10. Diego's Studio
    • Mezzanine
    • Rooftop
    • The Bridge of Diego and Frida's Love
11. Frida's Studio
    • What the Water Gave Me
12. The O'Gorman Guest House
    • Dining Room Mural

Location & Access

The Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo is located in the neighbourhood of San Angel, in the far south of the city centre. To access the museum, you can take an Uber or taxi directly into the district’s centre. The Uber fare costs about $7 USD and takes about 20-30 minutes (depending on traffic) from the centre of Mexico City. If you’d prefer to take public transit, you can hop on the metro towards Miguel Angel de Quevedo Station. From here, you’ll have to change to one of the city’s metro buses that will take you directly into the Altavista suburbs where the museum is located.

Admission & Hours

The museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday, 11 am to 5 pm. The price of admission is $40 pesos for adults, but children under 13 and seniors are free. Admission is free for everyone on Sundays.

About Diego Rivera

Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo are perhaps two of the most well-known artists to come out of Mexico. It is perhaps no coincidence that the two geniuses would find themselves caught in a passionate web of love, art and fiery drama. Diego Rivera was born in 1886 in Guanajuato City, Mexico. When he was born, he came out of the womb along with his twin brother. Sadly, his brother Carlos died two years after they were born. Twins have this unspoken, deep, almost soulful connection with each other and this loss so early in Diego’s life perhaps touched the young boy with trauma and pain that it seems many infamous artists carry with them. Diego started to draw at only three, just after his brother died. Perhaps as a means to express his grief.

Mexican Muralism

His talents only grew from then, and at the age of ten, he went to study art at the San Carlos Academy of Fine Arts in Mexico City. Rivera travelled to Europe after flourishing at the school in Mexico City. It was there he would refine his unique style of painting under the influence of modern artists like Pablo Picasso and looked to the works of Paul Gauguin and Henri Matisse for inspiration. Rivera returned to Mexico City in 1922 as he had been commissioned by the government to head up their new muralism program. The project was created to promote aimed to National pride through murals that told the history of Mexico that even the working class, illiterate masses could interpret.

About Frida Kahlo

While Diego was painting murals all over Mexico City, Frida Kahlo was just a young girl with her own struggles. Frida was born in 1907 in Coyoacan, a small neighbourhood just outside the centre of Mexico City. Similar to Rivera, Frida had her own ordeals early on in life. She was afflicted with polio at only six years old. This meant that her right leg would always be shorter and thinner than the left, a disability that would affect her for the rest of her life.

But Frida never let this illness defeat her spirit despite being kept isolated at home at such a young age. She looked up to her artistic father, who was a famous photographer, and it was him that inspired her to start painting. While at home, her father taught her things she would never learn so early in school, everything from philosophy, literature and, of course, art and photography. When she went back to school, she flourished, as learning was something that truly excited her.

The Bus Accident

But just as her life was taking off once more, she was hit, literally, by another setback. On her way back from school on the day, in the centre of Mexico City, just a few blocks from where Rivera was painting, the bus she was riding on was hit by a streetcar. A large iron handrail pierced her pelvis, broke her spine in three places and crushed her right leg, as well as a litany of other injuries. She stayed in the hospital for months and had to be put into a plaster corset to aid her spine and chest bones in healing. This meant months of bedrest with nothing to do. Nothing to do but paint. Once more, her father encouraged her to turn her pain into art. Despite these life-altering incidents, she responded with the same vigour for the life she refused to lose despite these accidents.

Frida and Diego’s Marriage

After recovering, Frida discovered the thing she wanted to do for the rest of her life, and that was to paint. She was insistent on becoming the best painter she could be, so she sought out the advice of the greatest Mexican painter she knew, Diego Rivera. Rivera was immediately taken aback by this energetic and bold girl and her obvious talent. Despite being married already (to two different women), Frida and Diego started a relationship. They would be married in 1929 at a wedding her parents entitled “the marriage between an elephant and a dove.“

The couple were immediately taken out of Mexico City and moved to the United States. Rivera had to paint several commissions in San Francisco, Detroit, and New York for the famous Rockefellers. But they knew they would return home to Mexico City and wanted a beautiful hacienda to come back to. This is where their friend, architect and artist Juan O’Gorman would come in!

Juan O’Gorman

O’Gorman had been studying functionalism, inspired by the Swiss designer Charles-Édouard Jeanneret, known as Le Corbusier. O’Gorman was enthusiastic about bringing this modernist style to his home in Mexico City. He saw Mexico City as being a hub for modern thinking and exquisite architecture. The old Hacienda Goicoechea, now the famous San Angel Inn, had sold off the large expanse of their land to become residential housing. O’Gorman loved the neighbourhood and purchased the land currently being used as the tennis courts of the nearby hotel. 

Modernist Architecture

O’Gorman had plans to turn these two plots into the first modernist home in Mexico City. But when he displayed his plan it was very controversial. Most homes here are super traditional, fitting into that 18th century colonial style, and this new modernist vision wasn’t an appealing sight to the neighbours. But despite them turning their noses up at this new technique, O’Gorman solidered on. He built one home as a proof of concept. This home still stands today as the Museo Casa Estudio’s guest house.

Functionalism

Functionalism was a style defined by buildings that were designed around their purpose and function and revolted against excess decoration that didn’t serve a objective. In many European functionalist buildings, glass, steel and concrete were essential elements in their construction. In Mexico, in addition to these materials, O’Gorman wanted to incorporate clay and natural plants into the buildings. Instead of building fences out of wood or wrought iron, he planted rows of tall cacti along the roadside. These elements were native to the environment and followed the functionalist ethos. He would use other plants to create borders that looked almost like they had naturally grown up around the house.

Another element significant in functionalism is using practical elements as expressive decoration. A great example of this is the exposed helicoidal staircases that swirl up the sides of the houses. The stairs are a means of access and yet bring an interesting spacial element to the house’s exterior. Water tanks and drainage pipes also provide dynamic structural details around the house. These were all painted a contrasting orange colour and created this framing effect. Instead of looking too industrial, they manage to have their own architectural charm. But they are, in fact, used for rainwater drainage so are not just ornamental.

Diego’s house features a saw-tooth roof design. This design, while it might look decorative, is actually used to allow natural light into the interior while blocking out the heat of direct sun exposure. This was a technique popular inside industrial factories as early as the 16th century, before electiral lighting could be used to illuminate the interiors. It remains today as one of the most ingenious techniques to bring natural light into the interiors.

Designing the Casa Estudio

When Diego and Frida saw what O’Gorman had created, they quickly decided to purchase the entire property and commissioned him to build them twin buildings. Each one would act as both a residence and a studio, unique to each artist. The two buildings were designed as a pair but also as two oppositional designs. Tied together through the consistent elements of functionalism and a bridge that brought the building together at the top.

Diego’s studio is painted off-white and rust-red. Simple, natural colours. On the other hand, Frida’s studio is painted the same ethereal cobalt blue as her Casa Azul. Both studios feature floor-to-ceiling windows, giving the interior spaces an indoor/outdoor feeling. But are protected from the elements, meaning you can paint inside while feeling like you’re out en plein air. The ideal of these twin structures is eerily similar to Diego and his brother Carlos. Connected together despite the fates of their lives going in two very different directions.

Life inside the Casa Estudio

Construction on the houses ended in 1932, and the couple moved in 1934. Diego and Frida lived here from 1934 to 1939. In 1939, they divorced, and Frida moved home to Casa Azul. Diego kept the house and continued living and painting here during their separation. After their divorce, the couple actually got back together, only 9-months later. But even after this reconciliation, Frida preferred to remain in the Casa Azul.

After Frida’s passing in 1954, Diego would continue to live in the studio house full time. He treasured his time in his home until his death on November 24, 1957. Rivera died in his studio, and his body remained there as friends and family came to sit vigil inside to mourn the loss. After this, his body was moved to the Palacio de Bellas Artes for his grand state funeral. 

Studio as Museum

After his death, Diego’s daughters inherited the houses. When they moved in, their went about drastically changing some of the most iconic aspects of the house and making many ugly additions. They removed the cacti and installed a stone fence. They also demolished the bridge that connected the buildings, one of the most important aspects of the house. Years later, the houses were gifted to the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes to be enjoyed by the public. Restoration began in 1995 to bring back the original nature of the homes and preserve their architectural value. All the additions and fencing were removed, and the house seemed to breathe a sigh of relief.

Exterior Foyer

One of the most wonderful things about functionalist-style houses is that they sit on stilts. These stilts are called pilotis, slender columns that support an upper level. When you walk into the property, the entire exterior courtyard feels like an open-air foyer. But with wonderful shaded areas under those upper levels to escape the sun’s heat (essential in Mexico City!) This open air foyer really exposes the incredible landscape architecture that O’Gorman created around the property. It feels like a gorgeous garden floating below.

Another enchanting thing to study while walking around the exterior are the exposed staircases. The spiral staircase which curls its way up the side of Diego’s studio is a wonderful geometric cement column contrasted against the solid red walls. The stairs almost have this musical-like curvature that flows out of the house.

The only exterior staircase in Frida’s house leads from the second-floor studio up to the rooftop. She would use this pathway to cross the thin bridge which connected to Diego’s house. Especially considering her frail condition and problems with her legs, it’s impressive she would brave such a dangerous-looking crossing. Especially when it originally was designed without any handrails!

The Bathrooms

Standing in the coutyard, you’ll see a smaller blue building, set behind Frida’s house. It looks almost like a minature version of her studio. Today, this tiny structure houses the public washrooms that visitors can use during their stay. Although you might think this was an addition when the museum was built, this building is original! It was designed by O’Gorman as a photography studio meant for Frida’s father. Even now, just as then, nothing is wasted. Functionalism reigns eternal.

Diego’s House

You enter Diego’s House first, via the exterior spiral staircase. The large, mostly empty room you enter on the first floor was used initially for Diego to display the artworks he had up for sale. His personal art gallery. Today, the space houses just a few remaining pieces from Diego’s collections of Pre-Columbian artifacts. Today the majority of his collections are housed in the Museo Anahuacalli.

During their marriage, the Museo Anahuacalli was a pipe dream of both Rivera and Kahlo. They both adored collecting these precious pieces of Mexican history and wanted to share them with the public. Rivera had started construction on this project just before his death. But it was O’Gorman who would see it through as the chief architect in charge of achieveing Rivera’s vision. Much of Rivera’s muralism was influenced by these pre-Columbian figurines. In Rivera’s art we can see the intense facial expressions and powerful geometric shapes reflected in these figurines.

2nd Floor Bedroom

Head back up the stairs, either using the smaller interior staircase or the outer curved stairs. The second level is where we find the painter’s studio and bedroom. The little room you’ll see upon entering is Rivera’s tiny bedroom. In functionalist buildings proportions of bedrooms were much smaller than we would expect. This was because they were seen as rooms only used for sleep and therefore didn’t require a great use of space. This preserved more capacity in areas like the studio which was where the artist spent most of his time.

Plus, the painter wasn’t a fan of sleeping unless it was with women. The room is designed to have only a tiny row of windows along the ceiling. This allowed only a small amount of light to flow inside. This meant the artist could get some sleep no matter what time of day.

The room is still laid out like it’s awaiting the return of it’s owner. Diego’s shoes are sitting on the floor as if he is about to get out of bed. Besides this, there are also his bedpans left here since his death. Atop the bedframe is Diego’s suitcase, as he was a world traveller. On the bedside table, you can also see a collection of his keychains and wallets. All the while the room is watched over by a series of papier-mache figures.

Diego’s Studio

Stepping from the hallway, make your way into the great studio. Immediately you’ll be overcome by the light that pours into theroom from the double-height windows on the north wall. From inside you can also study the effect of the saw-tooth roof windows that fill even the ceiling with light. Diego’s studio is bursting with natural energy. The trees on the other side of the windows almost look like they’re growing inside the house. The separation from indoors to outdoor is only a thin veil in here.

The studio still contains the original brushes and pigments which Rivera used to make his murals. They sit beside his easel like he is about to walk back into the room mid-painting. The painting on the easel is a portrait of Dolores Del Rio, a famous Mexican actress. Diego once said of Del Rio;

The most beautiful, the most gorgeous of the west, east, north and south. I’m in love with her as 40 million Mexicans and 120 million Americans who can’t be wrong.

Diego Rivera

Books, artisan ceramics and pottery, and little curios line the green painted shelves at the back of the room. Glass jars are silhouetted against the window panes. Inside powdered pigment still sit, waiting to be turned into paints. Diego’s studio really feels like a highly intimate space. Each one of the objects was bought by Diego as they caught his eye or gifted to him by a friend and lovingly put on display to be treasured. One of the most interesting decor found on the shelves is a copy of Diego Rivera’s death mask. Allowing him to still watche over all those and anyone who enters.

Judases

Filling the corners of the studio are these huge papier-mâché figures. Images of devils, skeletons and expressive people lean against the walls like inanimate puppets. These are called “Judases” and are popular formed of Mexican folk art. They were originally created as a part of the celebrations before Easter. The figures were made to look like the image of Judas, the Traitor. They would then take this resemblance of the great betrayer and set him on fire, to rid the world of his evil spirit. As years passed and the tradition became more popular, the figures began to take the forms of other, also unfavourable people or things. This could be anything from images of devils, demons, politicians, criminals and, in some cases, even disliked shopkeepers. Today the papier-mache dolls are stuffed with fireworks and blown up on the street. Much to the enjoyment of the onlookers.

But Rivera didn’t blow them up. Instead, he kept them as souvenirs of the local artisans. Although the simple craftsmen who made them might not have seen them as high art, Diego saw these as treasures to keep forever. Their highly expressive faces now look out over visitors from all studio corners.

Mezzanine

Walking back up the stairs, you enter the small mezzanine that looks over the studio. A small table between the two chairs is set in the corner, the perfect place to relax and watch the great painter at work. On the table is a portrait of Diego’s beloved, Frida. One can imagine this would have been where Frida herself would have stood to look down on her husband after coming over from her side of the house. Sometimes finding him hard at work…and other times, and sadly so, in the throes of passion with another woman, much to her dismay. In fact, it may have been right here that Frida discovered Diego cheating on her with her younger sister Cristina. There is no doubt that this house was a place of intensity from all angles.

The mezzanine is also home to Rivera’s office, just in the corner, beside the door to the rooftop. His green leather desk features a old phone, a typewriter and more pre-Colombian art covering the walls.

Rooftop

From the small office, you step out onto the rooftop, the neighbourhood of San Angel opening up all around you. During the Springtime, the purple flowers of the Jacaranda trees light up the skyline.

The Bridge of Diego and Frida’s Love

Although Frida and Diego had a passionate relationship, this firey love also resulted in both positive and negative intensity. When things were good, they were great, but when it was bad, it was very, very bad. So for both their sakes, having a separate working space where one could get away from the other was imperative. But the two buildings are connected by a large bridge on the top. O’Gorman named the bridge “the bridge of Diego and Frida’s love.” A symbol that, at the end of the day, they still found a way to come together and connect. Even when things were dire.

A narrow bridge connects the two buildings, the red-painted railings all you have to hold onto as you cross over. While Frida’s staircase has been closed down, too dangerous for the public to continually cross, you can imagine how the two lovers must have met up here to look out over the city and take in the night air. Even today the rest of the buildings in the area remain at a lower level to the rooftop of the Museo Casa Estudio, making you feel like you have this private oasis all to yourself.

Frida’s Studio

To get into Frida’s studio, you need to walk back down to the courtyard and enter on the ground level. Sadly, there is not much to see inside Frida’s house. Much of what once existed here has been moved to the Frida Kahlo museum in the Casa Azul. If you’re interested in learning more about the life and art of Frida Kahlo, you should definitely check it out, just over in Coyoacan. But there is one reason to go into the house: see the bathroom on the second floor. Sounds odd but stay with me!

What the Water Gave Me

This is where Frida lay when she was inspired to paint “What the Water Gave Me” in 1938. Like toys in a child’s bathtub, Frida painted the images that swam in her mind on top of the water. Memories of her life float around her; the only slice of reality is the cast iron bathtub framing the scene and her little toes sticking out of the water. The bathtub which inspired this scene can still be found in the house. If you’re a bather like me, you’ll know sitting in the bath really is where the imagination comes alive. It’s the best place to sit and think. Shower people will disagree with me I’m sure, but for me, a bath is a perfect way to relax and reflect. And it seems like Frida agrees.

The O’Gorman Guest House

The third large building on the property, located slightly below the other two homes, was the couple’s guest house. It was here that family and friends could stay in their own private apartments. But when the house was being built, it was used almost as a test for O’Gorman’s vision. To separate this house from the main studios, you’ll see another line of cacti fencing and steps leading down, surrounded by lush agave plants.

Construction on his house started in 1929, two years before the dual studio. The most impressive part of the building is the study on the first floor. Three of the four walls inside this part of the house are covered in floor-to-ceiling glass panels. And in fact, the entire glass wall opens up like a giant window. It’s pretty dangerous by today’s standards, as you can just walk right off, but what an impact it makes! The windows open up the space, and it feels like you’re floating in the air. The panels of glass are slightly more opaque on the lower four panels to give some privacy to the interior while still filling it with light.

The exterior ground level connects to the study via a wide-sweeping spiral staircase. Once more, without handrails. Looks gorgeous but can’t be very practical. A more private (and safe for visitors) internal staircase takes guests inside the private spaces which contain a small bedroom, bathroom, dining room and kitchen.

Dining Room Mural

One of the other exciting things to study here in the house is the remnants of the dining room mural that was once painted onto the walls. The mural was called “There is quite a difference between philosophy and science,” painted by O’Gorman. It depicts a stunning and vibrant Mexican landscape dotted with images of science and industry. On the left of the frame, there is an image of a fragile skeleton. This is juxtaposed with a beautiful naked Mexican woman who sits opposite. She sets aside a cup bursting with gorgous fresh fruits. The message is that one must have progress to flourish and grow. Otherwise, you will wither and die, like the old skeleton.

The fresco was only discovered in 2012 when a restoration team found traces of the original mural. When the house was sold off after Diego’s death, the mural was removed from the wall, purchased by the Banco Nacional de México for its private collection. Today you can see a photograph of the real painting beside the sketches found on the house’s walls. While I’m sure it’s well preserved in the bank’s museum, it would be more impressive to see it in situ here in the dining room. Maybe one day!

Thank you for joining us on this self-guided tour of the Museo Casa Estudio of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The Museo Casa Estudio is a wonderfully immersive space to explore, and I hope this guide helped you learn more about all the secrets hidden in plain sight. Let me know in the comments what your favourite discovery was!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Everything you Need to Know About the Incredible Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Diego Rivera was a Mexican painter, muralist, and pioneer in the art of social realism. He is best known for his monumental frescoes depicting Mexican history from the conquest to the revolution. His work has been exhibited worldwide, housed in the most prestigious museums. But the best examples of Diego Rivera’s work can be found here in Mexico City. In public spaces as well as time-honoured museums. This guided tour takes you across the city, diving into unknown corners and popular tourist sites. So come with me on a walking tour in the footsteps of Diego Rivera.

Table Of Contents

1. About Diego Rivera
2. Start of the Tour: El Cardenal
3. Museo Mural Diego Rivera
4. Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central
5. Palacio de Bellas Artes
6. Mexican Secretaria of Public Education Headquarters
7. Former College of San Ildefonso
8. Mercado Presidente Abelardo L. Rodriguez
9. Antigua Academia de San Carlos
10. Palacio Nacional
11. Cárcamo de Dolores
12. Panteón de Dolores
13. Coyoacan and San Angel
14. Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
15. Plaza San Jacinto
16. Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
17. Casa Azul
18. Frida Kahlo Park
19. Museo Anahuacalli
20. Museo Dolores Olmedo

About Diego Rivera

Diego Rivera was born, along with his twin, in Guanajuato, Mexico, in 1886. Sadly, his twin brother died only two years after they were born. Even at such a young age, his twin’s loss significantly impacted Rivera. Perhaps this event created the storm of passion, artistry and creativity Rivera was known for. In fact, it was after his brother died that Diego began to paint. Perhaps as a means to deal with his grief.

Early Education & Artistic Career

Diego began art studies at the Academy of San Carlos in Mexico City at ten years old. The school was located in the heart of the city’s historic centre. The spark of creativity was ignited when he left his small town and studied in the big city. Diego was so talented that the school sent him to study in Europe. All of the greats were sent to Europe as it was seen as the centre of artistic creations.

Diego first studied in Spain, and after success there; he went to study in the pinnacle of art cities; Paris. Rivera loved Pars and lived there for years. He was inspired by the work of artists such as Pablo Picasso and Georges Braque. He immersed himself in the immerging style of Cubism and Paul Cézanne’s post-impressionism. From all these inspiring artists, Diego began to incorporate bolder colours, simpler forms and even abstract elements into his painting. This new style of painting demanded the viewer’s attention. Some paintings scream; they do not whisper. And Diego wanted his art to cry out.

Diego’s Love Life

It was in Paris where Diego met his first wife, Angelina Beloff. A fellow artist from Russia. Despite his atypically handsome appearance, Diego was a lothario. Always with a woman wed and a different one in his bed. During his marriage to Beloff, he was also in a relationship with Maria Vorobieff-Stebelska. Maria would give birth to Marika, Rivera’s first daughter.

Rivera divorced Beloff when he moved back to Mexico City in 1922. Soon after arriving back in Mexico, he met and married Guadalupe Marín. The new couple had two daughters together, named Ruth and Guadalupe.

Diego and Frida

But their relationship also didn’t last, as he was already having another affair with young Frida Kahlo. He divorced Guadalupe Marin in 1929 and married Frida a few months later. He was 44 years old, while she was just 22. Frida and Diego were like fire on fire. Both with huge personalities and huge tempers. But their tumultuous relationship fueled their art. They were both unfaithful during different parts of their marriage. But even these extramarital companions couldn’t soothe the wounds they caused each other. They eventually divorced in 1939. Only after Frida’s death in 1955 did Rivera marry again. This time to his long-time agent, Emma Hurtado.

Mexican Muralism

Diego is best known for his work in the Mexican Muralism movement. When he returned to Mexico City, it was under the influence of the Mexican ambassador to France, Alberto J. Pani. The new Mexican Minister of Education, José Vasconcelos, was undertaking a new program of government-sponsored Mexican murals. These murals would be installed all over cities across the country. It was the government’s attempt to reunify the country post-Mexican revolution. The murals were meant to promote political ideas, depict real Mexican society (the good and the bad) and reflect views of the social revolution. To help those who could not read or attend school learn their history.

Rivera’s Unique Style

The three artists who undertook this project were called “the big three” or “The Three Greats.” The group was composed of Diego Rivera, José Clemente Orozco and David Alfaro Siqueiros. Through these murals, inspired by the national identity of Mexico, Rivera developed his iconic native style. This style was based on large, simplified figures and bold colours with an Aztec influence. It is this style that made Diego an icon and gave Mexico its own national art style.

Rivera became so popular that he was called to the United States to bring his style of mural painting to public buildings in the US. He spent a few years working in the US until a disagreement with the Rockerfellers on a large commission fueled his charge back to Mexico City. He continued working on some of the most important commissions of his life until his death on November 24, 1957. After this death, the government of Mexico declared Rivera’s works as “monumentos historicos” due to their importance in the country’s art history.

Start of the Tour: El Cardenal

To start your morning exploring Mexico City in the footsteps of Diego Rivera, you MUST book yourself brunch at El Cardenal. Inside the restaurant is a domineering mural, an artistic replica of one of the most famous Rivera murals. Sitting under a work of art is a great way to bask in its glory while enjoying some delicious Mexican cuisine.

El Cardenal is located inside the Hilton Reforma Hotel. But originally, the hotel which stood in this place was the Hotel del Prado. The Hotel del Prado was built in 1946 as one of the most luxurious hotels in the city. To cement the hotel’s status as one of the top-tier establishments, they hired Diego Rivera to paint a mural inside their new dining room. Sadly, almost nothing of the old hotel remains, as the Hotel del Prado collapsed after the infamous 1985 Mexico City earthquake. The only thing pulled from the wreckage was the mural, which miraculously could be salvaged. The original mural was moved into the nearby Museo Mural Diego Rivera. But this artistic reimagining was made for the new hotel dining room to keep the same spirit of the original.

Dining at El Cardenal

El Cardenal is a small chain of restaurants found all over the city. Their mantra is preserving national folk cuisine and putting it forward for guests to enjoy. Diego himself loved to eat. Although he wasn’t a great cook, food was a major part of his life. Diego and Frida would frequent the marketplace to draw inspiration. And, before leaving, I would fill up on ingredients to bring home. Famous, Diego would end each night with a late supper of hot chocolate and pan dulce. One of his favourite meals that Frida would make for him was a chicken mole. He loved traditional Mexican cuisine and was passionate about preserving it. And this restaurant is the perfect place to enjoy so many traditional dishes.

Museo Mural Diego Rivera

After breakfast, head over to the Museo Mural Diego Rivera. Despite being called a “museum,” the Museo Mural Diego Rivera is simply one large room designed to house the preserved mural from the Hotel del Prado. Thankfully admission is just over a dollar, so it’s more than worth a visit! After the devastating 1985 earthquake, the mural was saved (in pieces) and moved to the museum. Here, it was reassembled with care and restored to as close to its original condition as possible.

Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central

The mural is called Sueño de Una Tarde dominical en la Alameda Central (or Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central.) The exquisite mural spanned over 15 meters wide and was painted in 1947. The setting of the painting is, as mentioned in the title, Alameda Central. Alameda Central is a nearby park that has been a gathering place for locals for hundreds of years. The park was built in 1592 under the order of Viceroy Luis de Velasco II. It is now considered the oldest public park in the Americas. But long before it was a public city park, the area was an important site for the Aztec community. It was here where they held their enormous marketplace long before Spanish colonization.

Alameda Central

Alameda is from the Spanish word “álamo,” which means “grove of poplars.” The poplar trees that were once spread out through the park sadly do not remain today. Today, the trees have been replaced by ash, chestnut and willow trees. The group pictured in the park is filled with historical caricatures from over 400 years of Mexican history. They have all gathered together in this dream of Rivera’s. Although the dream sometimes feels more like a nightmare. Many historical paintings are told by the victors. Therefore they scrub away the sins of their past. But Diego, in all his works, never shied away from showing the grim realities of life. Violence and corruption permeated the history of Mexico.

Left Side of the Mural

The scenes from the painting can be read chronologically from left to right. You can get right up close to the mural in the museum to view these life-sized figures. Getting so close lets you feel the energy depicted within the scene. The piece seems to reverberate; gunshots fire, horses rear, police seize innocent indigenous children and the echoes of revolution swell in the background.

Hernan Cortez

One of the first figures of note to find is Hernan Cortez. You can see him off on edge to the left, dressed in his traditional military armour. His hands are posed in prayer as he is posed in front of flames that burn behind him. The flames of war he ignited. Beside him are victims of the Spanish Inquisition. Priests can be seen brutally punishing the victims, and a man all in black is in mid-swing of his cat of nine tails whip. One of the victims wears a sanbenito robe and conical hat. The iconic hat is now sometimes referred to as a “dunce cap.” The garments were worn by penitent heretics before they were put to the auto-da-fé. This “act of faith” was a ritual of public penance where the victims were killed by burning.

Below the large tree on the left, you can see two generals facing each other. The general on the left with the feathered admiral hat is Mexican president López de Santa Anna. Beside him is American General Scott. In 1846, during the presidency of López de Santa Anna, the Americans invaded Mexico City. And their encampment was actually located right inside Alameda Central.

Benito Juárez

Despite being farther into the background, the image of Benito Juárez, president of Mexico, is almost the largest face on the entire left side. He is seen holding a series of papers in his hands. Benito Juárez was President of Mexico from 1857 to 1872. During his time in office, Mexico suffered a second struggle for independence, a second defeat for the European powers, and a second reversal of the conquest. His greatest legacy was signing the Juárez Law, which declared all citizens equal before the law and restricted the privileges of the Catholic Church and the Mexican army.

Center Mural

The centre of the frame is the most vibrant and dreamlike part of the painting. It features bourgeois men and women in their Sunday best. In the background, the lush tropical park with a large fountain seems to glow with almost an ethereal neon hue. Above the scene in the centre is a huge hot air balloon flying above. The balloonist waves his Mexican flag, and the balloon is emblazoned with the Mexican Republic insignia.

La Calavera Catrina

The centre is dominated by a large, white skeletal figure called La Calavera Catrina. La Calavera Catrina (also called ‘the Dapper Skeleton’ or ‘elegant skull’) was originally conceived as a black and white cartoon. It was first drawn in 1910 by illustrator and lithographer José Guadalupe Posada. Rivera actually portrays Posada in this mural as well. He is seen to the right of La Calavera Catrina, holding her arm under his.

Originally, La Calavera Catrina was meant to be a caricature. She represented the elite of Mexico City during the reign of Porfirio Diaz. The caricature symbolizes a Mexican woman who has given up her Mexican culture and adopted high-society European aesthetics. Depicted with her huge Europe-styled hat and expensive feathers. And yet the woman is a skeleton. As if to say that no matter how you see yourself in this world, we are all the same underneath it all. Just bones. Over the years, La Catrina has become the symbol of death in Mexico. Her visage is a traditional part of the Day of the Dead celebrations.

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Rivera’s Calavera Catrina

In Diego’s mural, he has given the original sketch a whole body. While the face and large hat mirror the original drawing to a T, Diego has added some new elements. This includes a sumptuous feathered boa that hangs around her neck. But if you look closely, you’ll see the feathered boa still has a head and tail. This is meant to represent the Aztec serpent god Quetzalcóatl. Around her waist, La Calavera Catrina wears a belt with a gold buckle in the shape of an old Aztec symbol. This symbolizes La Calavera Catrina’s transition from caricature to a new form of revered god in the people’s eyes. She wears the body of the old god around her neck as she steps in to take its place.

Young Diego

In La Calavera, Catrina’s other hand, she holds the hand of a young Diego Rivera. Rivera has a playful little smile on his face. You can see a small toad poking out its head in his breast pocket, and in his other pocket, out comes a green snake. The umbrella he holds in his hand has the face of a bird, perhaps the Crested Caracara, often referred to as the “Mexican Eagle.” 

Frida Kahlo

Directly behind Diego stands Frida Kahlo. Frida’s hand lovingly rested on Diego’s shoulder. She holds a medallion with the yin-yang symbol in her opposite hand. Famously, Diego and Frida were polar opposites, yet they were drawn to each other despite these differences. In Chinese philosophy, the symbols depict the fundamental duality in humanity: female (“Yin”) and male (“Yang.”) Both Frida and Diego frequently painted images of each other in their artworks. In each of these paintings, there is always a coded message about the state of their relationship.

Throughout Diego’s career, Frida was always thought to be working in Diego’s shadow. She was known more as “the wife of Deigo Rivera” rather than an artist in her own right. And yet, here she is, the elder partner. Seemingly guiding Diego with her hand on his shoulder. Frida’s health was declining fast when Rivera painted this mural. Perhaps his small stature in the painting also reflects his helplessness in the face of her impending death.

Right Side of the Mural

To the right of the central group, we can see Porfirio Díaz looking down on them. Dressed in his military uniform and feathered hat, his decerning eyes gaze angrily at the group gathered. Díaz served seven terms as the President of Mexico. But this was better known as a dictatorship in the later years. Díaz started out as someone who aimed to turn the country around and free the people from the French. But once he came to power, his policies only benefited his circle of allies. The peasantry did not share in Mexico’s prosperity, leading to the Mexican Revolution of 1910. 

Below Díaz, on the ground, we see an indigenous family being forced to leave the park. They are being pushed away by a series of police officers. This is how Rivera uses transparency in his art. He aims to depict the racism that even the Mexican people have towards their indigenous community.

Francisco I. Madero

On the far right, up in a tree in front of a large Mexican flag, we can see Francisco I. Madero. He is smiling and waving his black hat up in the air. Madero was the head of the movement that overthrew Porfirio Díaz. Sadly, Madero was murdered during the Ten Tragic Days of 1913. His murderers, General Victoriano Huerta and Manuel Mondragón are also portrayed in the mural. Their menacing grey faces with prominent mustaches are hidden behind the crowd in the lower right corner. 

Also in the lower right corner are a group of women important to Rivera. This includes his ex-wife Guadalupe Marín, his daughters Guadalupe and Ruth Rivera Marín and his great friend Rosa Rolando Covarrubias. In the arms of his daughter Guadalupe, she holds her young son Juan Pablo. Perhaps by depicting his grandson in the photo, Diego wanted to cap the mural off with an image of hope. Hope for the future and for a better world for his grandson.

Alameda Central

After touring the museum, take a walk in the actual Alameda Central. Strolling through the gardens, monuments and pathways, you can get a sense of the vibrant atmosphere that must have inspired the setting for Rivera’s artwork. While the eastern portion of the park was for leisurely promenades, the park’s west end held a more nefarious purpose. This western section was originally built during the Mexican Inquisition. It was known as the “Burning Place.” Here, convicted witches and people accused of treason were publicly burned at the stake. While you don’t immediately think of Mexico as a place of witch trials, these inquisitions spread worldwide. When the inquisitions ended in 1770, the burning plaza was destroyed and transformed into an extension of the park.

One of the most important monuments is the “Hemiciclo de Benito Juárez.” This large semi-circle of eight towering marble columns with a central plinth is topped with a group of neoclassical statues. In the center is statesman Benito Juárez himself. Juárez was the 26th president of Mexico and, most importantly, the first president of Mexico of indigenous origin. On either side of him are two allegorical female statues representing the fatherland and law. On the pedestal he sits, you can see the inscription “Al benemerito Benito Juárez la Patria.” This translates into “To the meritorious Benito Juárez, the Homeland.”

Palacio de Bellas Artes

The Palacio de Bellas Artes, with its iconic sunset tiled roof, is one of the most iconic images of Mexico City. The Palacio de Bellas Artes hosts music, dance, theatre, opera and literature and is aptly named the “Cathedral of Art in Mexico.” The exterior of the building is primarily Neoclassical. But inside, you’ll discover a plethora of modern Art Deco and Art Nouveau stylings. Adding to the incredible decor of the interior is a series of murals wrapping around the walls. Each of these murals was commissioned by star painters of the Mexican Muralism movement. This includes; José Clemente Orozco, David Alfaro Siqueiros, Jorge González Camarena, Roberto Montenegro, Manuel Rodríguez Lozano and (most famously) Diego Rivera.

Man, Controller of the Universe

On the 3rd floor is where you can find Diego Rivera’s Man, Controller of the Universe. The mural is a recreation of the original mural once painted for New York City’s Rockefeller Center in 1933. When it was first thought up by Rivera, he named it Man at the Crossroads. But halfway through the project, the Rockefellers and Rivera disagreed about the subject matter depicted in the mural. The piece was meant to represent aspects of contemporary social and scientific culture. While the Rockefellers loved Rivera’s work, a damning article by the New York World-Telegram called the mural “anti-capitalist propaganda.”

Rivera and Lenin

Rivera was furious by the statement. As a means of revolt, he added a portrait of Lenin hidden within the mural. This portrait had not been approved in his original sketches. But Rivera hoped it wouldn’t draw any attention by hiding among other large portraits. Unfortunately, right before the unveiling, the Rockefellers took notice and demanded it is painted over. Rivera refused, and the entire piece was destroyed. This was a massive blow to Rivera’s ego. He was quoted as saying, “Rather than mutilate the conception [of the mural], I shall prefer the physical destruction of the conception in its entirety, but preserving, at least, its integrity.”

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After its destruction, Rivera recreated it in Mexico City on a blank wall in the Palacio Belles Artes. Rivera had asked his assistance to take pictures of the original mural before it was torn. This ensured he could recreate it perfectly here at the Palacio Belles Artes. When he was finished, he named this version Man, Controller of the Universe. A much more powerful title and reflective of his overall worldview.

Reading the Mural

The mural is split up into three different sections. In the center is a workman turning a giant piece of machinery. As if he is controlling the world around him with this machinery. Rivera was a staunch atheist, and his idea of man being the controller of his own destiny, not god, is evidently presented here. On the right side of the mural are depictions of capitalism, and on the left are depictions of communism. As mentioned in the original title, the universe appears at a crossroads. And we don’t know which way the man in the center will turn the wheel…

Central Mural

Emerging from the lower portion of the workman’s body is a giant fist. In the tight grasp of the fist, we can see an orb. Inside the orb are images of atoms and cells dividing in the act of chemical and biological generation. An ethereal blue light glows from around the edge of the orb. And tendrils start to emanate and spread out onto the rest of the image.
Radiating from behind the man is a series of propeller-like shapes. Inside each shape are images on both the micro and macro levels. Images as far away as the cosmos or as close up as bacteria are all seen through a microscope. Rivera is telling us that man can see it all. Beneath the mechanical structure, you’ll notice a small garden growing. This is meant to represent Mexico’s controlled growth of rich natural resources.

Left Side of the Mural

To the mural’s left side, we can see a small grouping of high society women playing cards and smoking. Hidden within the group of women, Rivera painted a portrait of John D. Rockefeller. Painting him among the clueless and cruel elite was revenge for Rockefeller destroying Rivera’s mural in New York.

Outside of their “social circle,” just beside the elite, are the faces of haggard workers looking on. Exhausted, angry expressions paint their faces. Above them, riots roars and police on horseback swing their batons, trying to silence protesters. This is a harsh contrast to the carefree gambling parties on the right. They are entirely unaware of the reality of the world around them inside their bubble.

Charles Darwin

In the foreground, a group of students of different ethnic backgrounds sit in lecture chairs. They appear to be watching the scene unfold through the large oculus in front of them. They are the hope for tomorrow, and only through learning about the past will they shape a better future. To the students’ left, we can see an x-ray machine controlled by a timid bearded man who represents Darwin. He is surrounded on the floor by different animals, which his studies revolve around.

Above the group stands a giant classical marble statue of the Greek god Jupiter. He looks furious, raising his hand to the sky. But a thunderbolt appears to strike his hand and break it from the rest of the statue. Around his neck is a large wooden cross. Rivera points out how Christianity and the Greek gods were false and would be destroyed by this new world. For Rivera, past myths have no influence on the future, where science and our understanding of the natural world around us reign supreme.

Above the entire scene is an assemblage of faceless soldiers and war machinery. Each soldier wears a terrifying gas mask on their face, obscuring their identity. Above the soldiers, the sky is filled with planes against a blood-red sky. A comment from Rivera on the violence created by capitalism.

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Right Side of the Mural

While the left side seems focused on war, the right side is a socialist utopia. On the right, between the propellers, we can see that famous image of Lenin. The very same one, the Rockefellers, were so up in arms about. In Lenin’s hands, he holds diverse workers around him. To the left of the group with Lenin is one of the brightest parts of the mural. Four women are shown in brilliant white athletic uniforms against a brilliant backdrop. A beautiful symbol of the power and hope Rivera had for women.

Along the top edge of the right mural are a large group of men and women celebrating the Russian May Day rally. Each wears a red cap or scarf and flies flags to symbolize communism. On the far right, we see another classical sculpture depicting a seated Caesar with his head cut off. Around Casesar’s waist, he clutches a bundle wrapped with a belt displaying the nazi symbol. Rivera viewed Caesar as a man of material goods. His beheading was a message from Rivera to rid ourselves of these material obsessions.

Leon Trotsky

At the feet of the headless statue is a man with round glasses and white hair. This is Leon Trotsky, a Ukrainian-Russian Marxist revolutionary, political theorist and politician. Trotsky and Rivera were once good friends. Trotsky even came to live in Mexico City after being expelled from the Soviet Union. Despite their best efforts to keep him safe, Trotsky was assassinated in his home in Coyoacán. Trotsky holds a giant red flag, supported by the industrial workers around him, representing Marxist theory. In the bottom left corner, one of the workers can be seen sitting casually on the statue’s head from above.

Stand back and take the entire mural in as one large scene. By doing this, you can appreciate how the left, the capitalist society, feels grim. On the right, more emotions are on the people’s faces, more rich colours. The people on the left are controlled by the government and religious institutions, and only the elite are free. But on the right, communist society is given control and freedom to create its own universe. Controlled by the people.

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Diego and Frida’s Funerals

Another big connection that the Palacio Belles Artes has to Diego is that it was the designated location for the funeral of his ex-wife Frida Kahlo. And would go on to be where he would be laid in state after his own death. Diego arranged for Frida’s body to be laid out in the Palacio de Bellas Artes. The government agreed, only if they would make it an entirely non-political event. Diego agreed. But unbeknownst to him, one of Frida’s students came to pay their respects and threw a huge communist flag over her casket. The government threatened to remove her body, but Diego refused to let them. He said if they tried, he would carry her dead body in his arm. And sit with her on the palace’s steps. They reluctantly agreed, and the flag remained on her casket, one last act of defiance.

Mexican Secretaria of Public Education Headquarters

Take a walk along the pedestrian-only Av Francisco I. Madero west towards the inner portion of the Historic Centre. When you reach the República de Brasil, head north, crossing westward once more along Luis González Obregón street. A few steps down the street, you’ll immediately see the Mexican Secretaria of Public Education Headquarters. The enormous building is spread over an entire city block. The facades that face out onto the different bounding streets are each done in a unique architectural style. Changing depending on the era in which it was created.

Diego Rivera Murals

Walk inside the iron gates from the República de Argentina to enter the open-air courtyard. You’ll usually see two armed guards on either side of the doors. Since this is still a government office, they take security seriously. Tell them you are there to visit the Diego Rivera murals. The guards will usually let you in if there aren’t any private events. But they might do a quick security check of any bags, so don’t let that surprise you. Inside the doors, you’ll enter the first of two large adjoining courtyards. Covering the courtyard’s walls are 235 panelled murals painted by none other than Diego Rivera. This was Rivera’s first large-scale painting project.

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Rivera and Vasconcelos

When Rivera returned to Mexico from his studies in Europe, it was to participate in a new mural program started. The program was the pet project of the new Secretary of Public Education, José Vasconcelos. Vasconcelos thought that art was a powerful tool for education. He went about commissioning large-scale mural projects across the city to bring art to the public. This project took place after the great Mexican revolution. Art was to be used to help communicate to the people that this new government would guarantee the new life promised by the revolution. And the first building Vasconcelos wanted Diego Rivera to work on was aptly the same one he worked in.

Like many of his contemporaries, Rivera believed that easel painting was considered too aristocratic. He and his contemporaries thought large, public murals could reach a larger audience. Art didn’t need to be hidden away inside stuffy museums or only appreciated by those with a critical eye. Art was for everyone.

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Education Mural Themes

Rivera started work on the murals in 1923, which took the painter five years to complete. Despite the overly Greek-influenced exterior, these murals focused powerfully on the Mexican identity. The murals followed themes of the Mexican Revolution and the glorification of Mexican labourers. Rivera’s themes are divided by the two courtyards. The larger courtyard focuses on Labour, and the smaller courtyard is dedicated to the Mexican Fiesta. Unlike the European influence that paints the colonial parts of the city, these murals focused on traditional Mexican heritage.

Fiesta Courtyard

The smaller Fiesta Courtyard is the first one you’ll enter. Here there are murals on the ground floor depicting various meaningful events in the Mexican calendar. You’ll see scenes from the Deer Dance, the Day of the Dead and the Corn Fiesta. There are also murals featuring the Meeting on May 1st, Good Friday and the Ribbon Dance.

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Walk up the stairs to the second level, where you can view one of the most important of Rivera’s murals. This massive painting, called The Arsenal, portrays a group of revolutionaries preparing for battle. In the center, you can see the image of a young woman in red wearing a communist star on her shoulder. The woman who posed for this painting was none other than Frida Kahlo. He painted her when she was just a student, long before the two would be married. Hovering above the murals, Rivera painted a sprawling red banner. The banners span the entire wall length and connect one scene to the other. The text written upon it is lyrics to various revolutionary songs called “corridos.”

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Labor Courtyard

The larger courtyard surrounds a beautiful green garden full of lush foliage. In this area, you can see scenes depicting Mexican labourers. Using looms, you’ll find images of mineworkers, sugar mill labourers, and craftspeople. Women set about dying fabric, smelters work in hot ovens, and busy farmers sell their goods in the marketplace.

On the second-floor staircase are a series of murals highlighting Mexico’s diverse landscape. From the bright blue coastlines to the lush green mountains. The murals on the second level are dedicated to what Rivera considered the four primary elements of painting. These are light, colours, man and geometry.

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Former College of San Ildefonso

Head back outside and make your way to the Former College of San Ildefonso, now the Museo De San Ildefonso. As you walk towards the building, take a moment to study the architecture of the building. The ancient blood-red volcanic stones are contrasted with a series of elaborately designed windows. The vibrant stained glass still gleams in the sunlight even to this day.

You walk through the double arcade outside Justo Sierra to enter the building. Stand outside the door for a minute to appreciate the elaborate Neo-Churrigueresque architecture. Neo-Churrigueresque is also known as Ultra Baroque. The style developed primarily in Spain but made its way to their colonies. Here it seemed to find a loving home in the arms of the Mexican people who love decoration. The style is primarily identifiable by extremely expressive and florid decorative details. While these elements bleed into the rest of the building, their main cluster surrounds the entrances and facades.

Mexican Muralist Movement

Inside the old college, it’s here that the Mexican Muralist movement was said to be invented. The building was originally constructed in 1588 as a Jesuit College. But when the Jesuits were expelled, the school became a residence for soldiers in 1767. Then, in the 1860s, the building was once more transformed into a school by president Benito Juárez. Juárez took schooling out of the hands of the clergy and into the hands of the government. Back then, the school saw over 700 students in and out of doors daily.

Government Mural Program

As the school was brimming with activity, the government thought this spot would be the perfect spot to feature a new government-sponsored mural. They commissioned a series of murals with themes relating to Mexico’s history and the politics of the post-Revolution era. Various artists contributed to the art spread across the walls of the college. The artists included; Ramón Alva de la Canal, Fermin Revueltas, Fernando Leal, José Clemente Orozco, David Alfaro Siqueiros, and Diego Rivera.

The building remained a functioning college until 1978, when it finally closed its door. It wasn’t until 1992 that it was reopened as a public museum and cultural center. Today there is always a series of rotating exhibitions on display. Many of them feature subjects relating to art and archeology in Mexico.

Creation Mural

Admission into the museum costs 50 pesos as there are rotating exhibitions on display inside. But if you just want a peek at Rivera’s work, you can sneak inside the Bolívar Amphitheater. This is found to the left of the entrance. You can access the theatre without admission, so long as there is no performance inside. Inside the Bolívar Amphitheater is one of Diego Rivera’s earliest murals, The Creation. This singular mural took Rivera over a year to complete, spanning over a thousand square feet!

The entire piece is a symbolic composition combining mythological and religious motifs. Along the top, in the center of the mural, is a blue astrological sphere with three hands emanating. This represents the holy trinity, stretching outwards towards the audience. In the middle are images of Adam and Eve, flanked on either side by the muses; Love, Hope, Faith, Prudence, Justice, Strength, Wisdom and Science.

Rivera’s Early Style

In this painting, Rivera’s art style’s youth can be studied. His iconic, more abstract technique seems to be missing. As if he hasn’t found his authentic voice just yet. The piece follows a similar style to that of Italian Renaissance fresco paintings. But even within this early work, his use of geometric structure, powerful facial expressions and strong composition are persistent.

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Mercado Presidente Abelardo L. Rodriguez

Less than ten minutes from the college, you can make your way to the Mercado Presidente Abelardo L. Rodriguez. This simple community marketplace is home to a series of murals painted by Diego Rivera’s students. While the work wasn’t by Diego himself, I love the idea of seeing his ideologies passed down to the next generation. And studying the works allows you to appreciate Rivera’s impact on future artists.

Market Murals

The market was built in 1934, and at the time, it was known for being very modern. It spread over 12,450 square metres and featured a daycare, youth center, library and large auditorium. It was more than just a market; it was a community centre. But most importantly, the architect hired Diego Rivera’s students to paint murals. These murals would span the entire interior wall and ceiling with themes portraying socialist ideologies popular at the time in Mexico City.

The young artists were passionate about reflecting the exploitation of workers, peasants and miners, especially by the elite of Mexico. The murals also depicted the fight against the Nazis, fascism, and racism. When the murals were initially painted, they were thought to be the city’s fourth most important public murals. And yet, over the years, they began to deteriorate. After the devastating 1985 earthquake, the marketplace began to fall into disrepair. The humidity started to peel the paint, and as the area was losing its prominent status, vandalism was also a problem. The mural was all but lost to the ages. But thanks to a group of concerned merchants, restorations began in 2008. This ensured these pieces of national history would be preserved. Although restorations are ongoing, you can walk around the marketplace today to see many iconic paintings.

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Antigua Academia de San Carlos

Walk south down Calle Loreto, east across República de Guatemala and down La Academie. Here you’ll find the Academia de San Carlos. This was the first art academy in Mexico and the “new world.” They opened their doors in 1785 and primarily taught academic neoclassicism to their students.

But over the years, the students began to rebel against the learnings of teachers from Europe. They longed for their own national artistic identity. This came to a head in 1911 when the student began to strike. This strike would last over two years. The students demanded to be able to paint outdoors. They wanted to be able to experiment more in their artwork and eventually shift towards a modern form of painting. Diego Rivera was the leader they needed and became the academy director in 1929. He was the perfect choice to appease the students. His entire career has been about telling the story of the Mexican people and bringing modern art to the masses.

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Palacio Nacional

To finish off our tour of Diego Rivera’s murals in the historic centre, we must pay a visit to the Palacio Nacional (or National Palace). This is his piece-de-resistance. The Palacio Nacional is an enormous museum with so much to see and do. Entrance to the National Palace is free, although there is usually a long lineup to get inside. You need to leave a piece of ID with the guards at the door. Since the Palace is still home to the offices of the Mexican President, security is critical. They need to control the number of people and keep track of exactly who is inside. The entrance to the National Palace can be found on Moneda Street.

History of the Palace

The site of the building was once Moctezuma II’s Grand Palace. His great residence was built here in 1521. When Cortés first visited the Palace, he described it as having a surprising array of riches. The walls were made of marble, and the facade contained a carved shield of Mexico’s iconic eagle. With the snake in its claws. The building was modern, with sanitary facilities, fountains, gardens, and bedrooms with rich rabbit fur and feathers tapestries. In addition to being a royal residence for the rulers of the Aztec city, it was also a meeting place for the older tribe members. Here disputes and discussions would take place to ensure the wealth and happiness of their people.

Hernan Cortés

Sadly, after the invasion by the Spanish, Hernan Cortés seized the residence from the Aztecs. Cortés was so enamoured by the palace that he used it as his home. Passing it down to his son in later years. The Palace’s devastating fire in 1692 destroyed much of the original structure. Many of the original stones that could be recovered were used in the reconstruction efforts. However, the new palace was styled in the Baroque fashion of the time. It seemed that over time, every generation added its own touch to the building. And now, it looks more like a patchwork quilt of architectural ages.

History of Mexico Mural

Walking inside the National Palace, follow the signs for the ‘History of Mexico Murals.’ These can be found within the great courtyard, surrounded by Baroque arches. Walk up to the main stairwell, where you’ll immediately be struck by this immense masterpiece. The mural depicts the history of Mexico from the dawn of human existence through to the 1920s. Rivera started work on this mural in 1929, many years after his first mural project. The precision and confidence in his technical skills and expressive style are evident in this work of art. Rivera was decisive in using his art to communicate his ideologies about communism and the rejection of the colonizers. He wanted to bring the crimes of the past clearly into the minds of the people. To ensure these atrocities were never forgotten.

The main message of the mural surrounds the indigenous Mexican people’s struggles to preserve their culture, National identity and country against the brutal colonizers. Standing at the base of the stairwell, take a minute to appreciate the sheer grandeur of the entire piece. So much of the story is sad—a classic tale of good vs. evil. The goodly indigenous Mexicans had one of the most vibrant cultures. Yet, they were practically wiped out by the evil, invading Europeans.

If you squint and look at the entire piece, the bright colours and expressive shapes look powerful, hopeful and strong, just like the Mexican people. Despite the horrors of the past, the post-revolution population believed in the future of their country. Especially as it became an independent nation. And that their strength and perseverance would conquer evil and allow their great country to prosper.

North Wall 

Walk up the stairs to the landing in the center, and look up at the left side, or North Wall. This part of the mural depicts the indigenous Mexicans long before the arrival of the Spaniards. They are surrounded by the fantastical Mexican landscape all around them. The blue is almost heavenly —the large bright sunshine above casting all of them in celestial light. The Aztecs believed in the sun god, as seen in the all-seeing eyes painted onto the sun’s face. Just below the sun, you can also see an erupting volcano with Xiuhtecuhtli’s “the Lord of Fire” exploding from the mouth of the volcano. In the sky flies Quetzalcoatl, the Feathered Serpent deity and god of the wind and the rain.

The Valley of Mexico is spread along the horizon, with its amazing pyramids towering above the people. Standing in front of the pyramids are the Aztec leaders, guiding and looking after their citizens. In the left corner, you can see a small battle scene between two tribes. This violence was a common occurrence in any civilization. But the cultural costumes worn by the different tribes make this little vignette so interesting.

Farmers are tending to vivid corn crops, almost as bright as gold. Craftspeople in the lower right-hand side of the mural are busy weaving, making pottery, playing music, painting and writing on scrolls. This shows their modern civilization, full of technology, art and science! They were the farthest thing from “savages,” as the violent Spanish colonizers reported.

West Side, Main Wall 

We move from the north wall’s idyllic memories to the densely packed and violent images of the west wall. This is the mural straight ahead as you walk up the main stairs. It is the battle of the Mexican people against their oppressors. A story of hatred and war is woven into the fabric of Mexico’s history.

Lower Level Depictions

The lower part of the mural is riddled with images of Mexicans and Indians fighting against the heavily armoured Spanish and French cavalry. The beautiful and bright feathered costumes of the Aztec leaders crushed and fell under the feet of their enemies. Cortez can be seen in the middle of the painting, as he is the only mounted soldier with his face exposed. The rest of the attacker’s helmets are closed. But Rivera paints Cortez with his helmet raised, so his actions are not anonymous.

Cortez’s armies have modern weaponry making their defeat of the Aztecs a foregone conclusion. Despite being outgunned and outnumbered, the Aztecs fought valiantly against the Spanish on the right and left corners. All the while, the Aztecs are being watched over by a great golden eagle in the center. The eagle sits perched atop a cactus with a serpent in its mouth. The design of this symbol is rooted in the legend that the Aztec people would build their great city on the spot where they found an eagle eating a snake on top of a cactus. They called that place Tenochtitlan (Mexico City), and it was worth fighting for them.

Middle Depictions

In the middle of the mural, we see the horrors brought to Mexico by the Spaniards. Not only did they want to conquer the land, but they also wanted to abolish the Aztec religion. The Inquisition went about burning sacred books and religious imagery. You can see these fires burst out across the wall. Priests on the left-hand side can be seen forcefully converting the indigenous people to their new religion of Chrsitiniarity. The Spanish turned many natives into slaves, and these hard-working people were the creators of this “new world.”

Upper Arch Depictions

Under the five arches at the top of the wall are the various rulers of Mexico. Interesting to note is Rivera’s use of non-hierarchical representation. No one man is larger than the other. While some think it makes the mural more challenging to interpret or read, it is part of Rivera’s communist ideologies of equality.

Starting from the left, we see the French Rule and execution of Austrian Emperor Maximilian in 1867. Next to that, we see images of the Porfirian era. This era was coloured with a brutal dictatorial rule accomplished through consensus and repression. In the central arch, we see depictions of Independence and the Mexican Revolution. You can see a man with a mustache carrying a large red banner at the very top of the frame. This is revolutionary Emiliano Zapata, who was one of the leading men in the revolution. The red flag says “Tierra y Libertad,” which means “Land and Liberty.”

To the right, we see images from the Reform and Juarez eras. Benito Juarez was Mexico’s only Indigenous president and the founder of the new Mexican nation. Finally, on the far right, we have the invasion of Mexico by the US. Above the invading US army is the great eagle flying down to attack.

South Wall

The south wall to the left of the main stairwell depicts the future of the Mexican people. The imagery represents progress, prosperity and hopes for a better future. At the top of the mural is the image of Karl Marx holding his great Communist Manifesto on a large scroll. To the right of this is a man flying the Soviet flag. When the mural was painted, the Mexican people and Rivera himself had solid socialist tendencies. The Soviet flag can be seen throughout imagery from this era.

To the right of Karl is a scene of Mexican workers. They are being attacked and oppressed by police wearing large gas masks. This scene takes place in front of Mexico City’s skyline silhouette. While the other two murals are more fluid in their collage-like design, this mural is framed in harsh geometric metal beams. Inside these almost cage-looking rectangles are pictorial representations of what Rivera saw as negative social forces in high society. 

At the bottom of the painting is the image of a woman dressed in bright red. Look closely at her face to see if you can recognize the model. It is none other than his wife, Frida Kahlo. Frida holds a copy of the Marxist manifesto and is engaged in a political rally. Very similar to her real-life political activism. Above her is another similar-looking woman. This is Frida’s sister Cristina, with whom Rivera had an affair during his marriage to Frida.

Second Level

On the second level of the courtyard patio are 11 additional murals painted by Rivera. These are continuations of the history but highlight particular scenes that Rivera found to be important during the pre-Hispanic era. These murals were not finished, and it’s interesting to see them as works in progress captured in time.

Cárcamo de Dolores

There are several other spots in Mexico City to see if you are following in the footsteps of Diego Rivera. One location to visit that is home to two important spots is the great Bosque de Chapultepec or Chapultepec Park. The park is one of the largest city parks in the Western Hemisphere and spans over 1,600 acres! A dense and populated city needs fresh air, and this park acts as its “lungs,” with trees that replenish oxygen to the Valley of Mexico. The name Chapultepec stems from the Nahuatl word chapoltepēc, which means “at the grasshopper’s hill.” If you find yourself in Chapultepec Park, you can also visit the Cárcamo de Dolores. 

The Cárcamo was built in 1951 under engineers Eduardo Molina Arévalo and Guillermo Torres. The Cárcamo de Dolores (or Sump of Dolores) was a hydraulic structure that housed a giant water tank. From here, the city would control the levels in several other large water reservoirs. But, the space was given an artistic flair by Diego Rivera. 

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Tláloc, the God of Water

Once the new system was implemented, they set about creating this museum in honour of the water god Tláloc. Tláloc is the god of rain, water and earthly fertility. Walking up to the building, you can see the giant tiled fountain with the image of Tláloc lying down, spread over 100 feet wide. He lies with his legs laid splayed, decorated with brightly coloured stones mined from the natural resources of the Mexican landscape. Originally, the area where we now find the fountain was the entry point where the Lerma River water entered the city’s reservoir.

Water has long been both worshipped and yet highly problematic in Mexico City. After the Spanish conquest, they drained the precious life-giving rivers and lakes. Since then, the city has constantly been searching for accessible water. So people are continually making their prayers to Tláloc. In the hopes he can solve what even modern-day engineers still have not.

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Main Building

Inside the main building is where you can find Rivera’s murals, Water, Origin of Life. These murals pay tribute to the workers, engineers and architects who participated in the construction of the original Cárcamo water system. These 200 square meters of murals were meant to be underwater, making them the only underwater mural in the world. Today, the murals’ pools are empty, allowing the public to observe the artworks. Constant aquatic exposure resulted in the slow deterioration of these historical works, so the water was drained and diverted. A pipe organ has been installed to give the room the same atmosphere as it once had. The organ makes noises through the adjacent municipal pipes to make the room sound like a functional waterway.

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Panteón de Dolores

On the other side of the Avenue Bosques in Chapultepec Park is the great Panteón Civil de Dolores. This Pantheon, or cemetery, is the largest cemetery in Mexico. And in my opinion, this cemetery is one of the greatest in the world! Filled with some of the most incredibly elaborate and imaginative tombstones. The cemetery was built in 1897 on Juan Manuel Benfield’s ranch. Benfield founded the cemetery in honour of his wife, who had recently died in Veracruz. She couldn’t be buried in Veracruz as all cemeteries there were for Roman Catholics only, and they were practicing Anglicans. The cemetery grew and grew over the years, becoming home to some of the most illustrious dead of Mexico City. Today, the cemetery has over 700,000 tombs and is considered the most crowded cemetery in Latin America.

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They even have a special section of the cemetery called the ‘Rotonda de las Personas Ilustres‘ (Rotunda of Illustrious Persons). This area honours those who have exalted Mexico’s civic, national and human values. Originally it was named the Rotunda of Illustrious Men. But it was renamed by President Vicente Fox in 2003 as the cemetery also honours many famous women. The first person to be buried here was soldier Pedro Litechipia, who died fighting against the empire of Maximilian in 1876. 

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Diego Rivera’s Tomb

Included among the illustrious dead is Diego Rivera. Interestingly enough, Rivera had requested that he not be buried at all. Instead, he wanted to be cremated and his ashed comingled with those of his beloved Frida Kahlo. Frida’s urn can be found inside her beloved Casa Azul. Sadly, upon his death, his family overruled his decision and had this tomb designed to house his body. The vault was designed with pre-Hispanic patterns and symbols swirling around the tombstone. Emerging from the stone are the bright white marble arms and the death mask of Diego Rivera himself. As if the artist is merely asleep and is rising from the grave. Haunting and yet beautiful all at once.

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The Flower Vendor (Girl with Lilies)

On either side of the tomb are bouquets of white calla lilies carved in marble. So they may bloom for eternity. Rivera’s famous The Flower Vendor (Girl with Lilies) is one of Rivera’s most famous artworks. Although the lily is associated with funerals and death to Rivera, it symbolizes indigenous culture. It also references Mexico’s abundant flora and even a hint of sensuality, as the flower resembles a certain part of the female anatomy. Flower sellers also represent the poor working class. Who sold the beauty of the Mexican landscape to the wealthy upper class, which consumed it. For this reason, focusing on the flowers on his grave is even more important to his legacy.

Tomb Mosaic

Above the tomb, on a large stone marker, is a beautiful mosaic. It features the image of an older indigenous woman surrounded by lit candles. The scene appears dark as if she is here at night. She kneels on the ground, planting seeds with a woven basket in front of her. A symbol of how Rivera planted seeds in the minds and eyes of the Mexican people. Inspiring them for ages to come. On the opposite side of the mosaic is a burst of Rivera set into the stone. Below it is a large inscription dedicated to the life and impact of the great artist.

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Coyoacan and San Angel

You can visit many other places that are significant to Diego Rivera, located outside the city centre. Luckily, Uber makes seeing many of these destinations very straightforward. Two neighbouring areas worth visiting are the colourful suburb of Coyoacan and the quiet artistic streets of San Ángel.

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo

The rural hamlet, filled with cobblestone streets and bougainvillea-covered colonial homes of San Angel, was where Diego Rivera called home in his old age. While the Casa Azul was Frida’s palace, the Casa Estudio was Diego Rivera’s oasis. Here, you can learn more about Diego, the man, not just Diego, the artist. This was Rivera’s dream home. He had it custom designed by architect and friend Juan O’Gorman.

Juan O’Gorman

O’ Gorman studied functionalist construction under the swiss design of Le Corbusier. Gorman was enthusiastic about bringing this modernist style to Mexico City. A city he saw as being a hub for modern thinking and exquisite architecture. Diego and Frida’s studio house would be the first construction using functionalist architecture in Latin America. Functionalism was a style defined by buildings that should only express their use or function. They removed excess decoration and prized minimalism.

For Diego and Frida, this functionalist ideal represented their need for two separate studios. Functionally, they could not work together. Frida and Diego’s relationship was plagued with intensity, both good and bad. But when it was bad, it was very, very bad. They found the need to have two different spaces to work to focus on their craft without quarrelling with one another all day. And yet, the two buildings are connected by a large bridge on the top. It is a symbol of their love. That at the end of the day, they still found a way to come together and connect. 

The Architecture of the House/Studio

The two buildings were designed almost as polar opposites. Diego’s studio building is painted off-white and rust-red. Simple, natural colours. On the other hand, Frida’s studio is painted the same ethereal cobalt blue as her Casa Azul. Both studies feature almost floor-to-ceiling windows, giving the interior space an indoor/outdoor feeling. The houses are separated from the street by a perimeter fence. But instead of being made from wood or wrought iron, the fence is made of rows of tall cacti along the roadside. Giving it the most iconic appearance.

The couple lived here from 1934 to 1939. In 1939, they divorced, and Frida moved home to Casa Azul. Leaving Diego to live full-time, alone in the studio house. After their divorce, the couple actually got back together only 9-months later. But even after this reconciliation, Frida and Diego kept the studio house. Diego would continue to live there full-time until his death on November 24, 1957. Rivera died in his studio, and his body remained there as friends and family sat vigil inside to mourn the loss. After this, his body was moved to the Palacio de Bellas Artes for his state funeral. After his death, his daughter inherited the house. But she gifted it to the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes to be enjoyed by the public for years to come as a museum.

Diego’s Studio

Diego’s studio is filled with natural energy. The floor-to-ceiling windows allow sunshine to shine through and ignite the space. The studio museum still contains brushes and pigments, which Rivera used to make his murals. He is sitting on his easel like he is about to walk back into the room mid-painting. Dotting the walls are items from Rivera’s pre-hispanic arts and crafts collections. Books lined the shelves, which served as artistic inspirations and portraits of Diego’s many friends and fellow artists. It really felt like a space that was intimate and highly personal.

But filling the majority of the studio are these huge paper-mâché figures. These are called “Judases” and are life-sized papier-mâché dolls popular in Mexican folk art. These are usually made to be burnt as a part of the celebrations on the day before Easter. The figures are made in the image of Judas the Traitor or other unfavourable people. This could be anything from images of devils and demons or even politicians, criminals and disliked shopkeepers. They are then stuffed with fireworks and blown up on the street. Much to the enjoyment of the onlookers. But Rivera didn’t blow them up. Instead, he kept them as souvenirs of the local artisans. Although the simple craftsmen who made them might not see them as high art, Diego saw these as treasures to keep forever.

Plaza San Jacinto

Just a 5-minute drive from the museum/studio, make a stop in the Plaza San Jacinto. This beautiful park is a hub of activity on Saturday mornings. On the weekends, artisans of the San Angel neighbourhood descend on the park to display and sell their creations. Small groups of artists often sell throughout the week, but Saturdays are the most popular day. You’re guaranteed to find the marketplace bustling on those days.

Make your way to the plaza’s centre and look across from the elegant central fountain. There, you will see a bronze easel with the burst of Diego Rivera emblazoned into the cartouche. As Rivera was a resident of the San Angel for many years, local artists inspired by Rivera wanted to commemorate him for generations to come. There is something wonderful about Rivera’s face looking over at the artists in the square selling their works. Continuing his passion for supporting Mexican artists, even from the great beyond.

Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

Now let us head into the vibrant neighbourhood of Coyoacan. Our first stop is at the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This building is now a free cultural centre to enter and explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on an Izotitlán farm, a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow wild all over the property.

Just inside the entrance to the Casa is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can sit alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple. The house has existed here since 1780, occupied by various families. It’s no stretch to imagine that the previous owners would have welcomed the famous couple into their garden for a visit or a dinner party from time to time.

Casa Azul

La Casa Azul, or “the blue house,” located on Londres Street in Coyoacán, once belonged to Frida’s father, Guillermo Kahlo. It was here where she was born. She grew up inside these walls. It was where she suffered from illness but flourished as an artist. Eventually, Frida bought the house from her parents and lived with Diego throughout their marriage. They even got divorced and remarried, all within these blue walls. And ultimately, it was the place where she would pass away. It was her sanctuary but also her cage. She spent more years inside these walls than perhaps anywhere else in the world. As such, it is one of the most intimate looks into her life that you can experience.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at Frida and Diego’s private world. The house has sketches by both artists and pictures of the two as a couple. But the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art. They collected pre-Hispanic artifacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more which are still on display. Walking inside their home, you feel a deep connection with Frida and Diego. To learn more about Casa Azul, take my self-guided tour!

Frida Kahlo Park

Frida and Diego loved the outdoors. Diego often painted outside. The outdoors were an important part of their artistic life. In the centre of Coyoacan, you can make your way to Frida Kahlo Park. In the middle of the park, you’ll find two large bronze sculptures of Frida and Diego. Frida is dressed in her classic Tehuana outfit, gazing over at Diego. This park has a very structured layout, the bushes around it perfectly pruned into geometric shapes. Slightly resembling Aztec pyramids popping out in the background.

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Museo Anahuacalli

If you are travelling to Xochimilco, you should stop by the Museo Anahuacalli. Your ticket into the Casa Azul also covers your entry into this museum. The Museo Anahuacalli was another one of Diego Rivera’s homes. Diego and Frida were fierce nationalists who loved their home country and wanted to preserve its history. Diego and Frida dreamed of opening their own museum dedicated to these objects. Sadly, in their lifetime, this dream never came to fruition. But after Diego’s death, his daughter took up the project and created the Museo Anahuacalli. Architect Juan O’Gorman, who designed their studio, also designed this house.

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The house’s exterior was made using black volcanic stone from an old Mexico volcano. The texture is something truly unique. There are over 50,000 pre-Hispanic pieces inside the museum. Some of these Diego would collect while he and Frida would travel to ancient Aztec pyramids outside of Mexico City. Each one of them was a piece of Mexico’s heritage, a heritage that inspired the historical influences of Rivera’s artwork.

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Museo Dolores Olmedo

Also, near Xochimilco, stop at the Museo Dolores Olmedo Museum. The museum is located inside the grounds of an old 16th-century residence. In 1962, Dolores Olmedo bought the house. Dolores was a fierce collector of art as well as a lover of Mexican culture. It is no surprise to learn then that she was old friends with Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. She was also one of their most prolific collectors, and her gallery remains the largest private collection of their works. In 1994, her collection was transformed into the museum we now find today. Luckily, Dolores lived until 2002, so she could see this fantastic house converted into an art gallery for the public to enjoy.

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Olmedo & Rivera

Olmedo met Rivera when she was only 17 years old on a trip to Mexico City with her mother. They met while Rivera was working on his murals inside the Ministry of Education building. Inside the museum, you can see one of the portraits that Rivera painted of her. He made it in 1955 after their first meeting. As their friendship continued, Rivera continued to paint Olmedo and her children. They were so close, in fact, that Olmedo invited Rivera to spend time with her family in her home in Acapulco. Here, the painter made over 50 different paintings of sunsets from Olmedo’s front porch. Several of these paintings can be viewed inside the museum.

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Today you can explore gardens filled with exotic Mexican plants, magical peacocks and Xoloitzcuintles. Xoloitzcuintles are a rare dog breed that was once only thought it exists in mythical stories of the afterlife. But the breed is actually an ancient hairless Aztec dog. The museum also features a permanent exhibition of works by Russian-Mexican artist Angelina Beloff, Diego Rivera’s first wife.

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This brings us to the end of the Mexico City tour, walking in Diego Rivera’s footsteps. I hope you enjoyed your time with us and learned something new about the city along the way! Let me know in the comments what your favourite stop along the tour was!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Insider’s Guide to a Diego Rivera’s Life & Art in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Stepping in here feels like going back in time. It is a joyful place to visit too. That might seem odd since you might associate medical museums with being a bit morbid. But honestly, the museum staff adds so much excitement and interest to all the objects on display. These old pharmacies would have been a local hangout and place to socialize back in the day and the friend faces inside continue that tradition on today. It’s hard not to get carried away looking at every jar and bottle on the shelves. Asking questions about what each ingredient was used for. Luckily, your guides have ALL the answers and will be more than happy to cure your rabid curiosity.

Table Of Contents

1. History of the Newfoundland & Labrador Pharmacy Museum
   • Restoration of the Pharmacy Museum
2. 20th Century Drug Stores
   • Work of the Apprentice
   • The Local Drug Store
3. Hours & Access
4. A Tour of the Museum
   • #1 Show Globes
   • #2 Ship's Medicine Chest
   • #3 Patent & Quack Medicine
   • #4 Poisonous Medicine
   • #5 Vintage Perscriptions
   • #6 Cod Oils
   • #7 Soda Shop
   • #8 Vintage Packaging
   • #9 Beauty Products
   • #10 The Guides!

History of the Newfoundland & Labrador Pharmacy Museum

In the early 19th century, the city of St. John’s in seaside Newfoundland was on the rise. The population was growing thanks to the development of the seal, salmon and Grand Banks fisheries. But a horrible fire in 1892 destroyed almost all of what was then downtown St. John’s. The fire cause 11,000 of its citizen to become homeless and cost over $13 million in damages. Government buildings, churches and commercial businesses were all burnt to the ground. This also included the eight drug stores that operated within the city.

In 1922, Peter O’Mara was one of the first to reopen a new drug store. The pharmacy opened at 488 Water Street, where we find the museum today. Water Street was located right along the waterfront. This meant the drug store could efficiently service all the naval officers, fishermen and sailors working on the docks. Peter O’Mara‘s druggery had been operating in St. John’s since 1899, but he had outgrown his previous Drug Store. And thanks to the fire this was his push to expand. The architect of his new store went with Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles, popular during the 1920s. Today, the pharmacy is a shining example of that kind of architecture and interior design that has otherwise disappeared over the years.

Restoration of the Pharmacy Museum

Walking inside this pharmacy, you’ll notice right away the amazing originally restored elements of the interior. This includes the original tin ceilings, ornate cabinets and aged maple flooring. All these were evidence of the money that went into the Pharmacy making it such a special place to shop! All of the original oak fixtures were made in England and shipped to Newfoundland. Quite a journey in the 1900s and a shipment that would have been extremely expensive. But pharmaceuticals were a lucrative business. And Peter O’Mara wanted to make sure his Pharmacy stood out. When the drug store was finally closed, the fixtures were sold off. Luckily, the museum was able to repurchase them in 1975. Turns out they were being used inside the nearby Donald Hogan drug store.

20th Century Drug Stores

The design of Peter O’Mara’s Pharmacy was based on the traditional British system of druggery. Therefore designed in a classic English style. This system focused on apprenticeship to learn the trade. Apprentices would be paid a meagre salary and their time in service as an apprentice would last years. They were given room and board by the advising pharmacist but little spending money. Many pharmacies would be a two-storey building, with a living space above the main shop. Apprentices would work for four to ten years before they would be consisdered members of the guild of Pharmacy. Only after this time could they practice independently.

Work of the Apprentice

The life of an apprentice was tough. After all, the job of a pharmacist held the lives of people in their hands. Proper training, good service and top-notch medical knowledge were of the utmost importance. The apprentice’s work would consist of simple tasks like cleaning, pounding crude material, preparing mixtures, measuring quantities and taking stock of supplies. Back then, you couldn’t just simply order all your ingredients. Many of them needed to be made by scratch. So when you walk inside the museum and see the hundreds of glass jars and bottles on the wall you really appreciate how much work making the elements for just one prescription would have been.

What is also super interesting to take note of is that all the labels are written in Latin. Latin was still a very rare language for someone to read or write back in Newfoundland during the 20th century. But this was yet another skill the apprentices had to learn. Latin was still being used on the bottles and as well as on the written prescriptions from doctors.

The Local Drug Store

The 20th-century Pharmacy was more than just a drug store. It was a local hangout. Every day goods were sold here, almost like a general store, it wasn’t just pharmaceuticals. And who wouldn’t want to hang out inside such a pretty shop?! The store would have also carried exclusive imported items from England and France like chocolates, candies, perfumes and other beauty products. Some drug stores even produced their own branded household items. They would be able to compound anything from furniture polish to beach, floor cleaners and ginger wine!

While Doctors were required for prescriptions for serious conditions, if you had a common cold or stomach ache, you could also go right to the pharmacist. Just like you do today with over-the-counter drugs. Stomach aches were widespread as refrigeration wasn’t standard and food spoilage was rampant. Treatment for these types of maladies was the most common over-the-counter medicine pharmacists would have developed. And depending on which pharmacy you visited, they might each have their own unique blend and recipe for treatment.

Hours & Access

Currently, the museum is open to the public by appointment only. But don’t let that put you off. Deanne (the museum curator and guide) is excellent at getting back to you ASAP to find a time to fit you in. Simply email info@nlpharmacymuseum.com to arrange a time to visit.

The museum is open Tuesday to Friday, but you can always inquire about other times if they have some availability. The museum is located along 488 Water Street in downtown St. John’s. There is parking available right beside the museum if you are planning on arriving by car. But this area of town is super walkable if you’re staying in the area it’s easy enough to walk to the museum. 

A Tour of the Museum

Lining the Pharmacy shelves are over 2,000 artifacts. Everything you would find inside a 19th-century pharmacy. Antique bottles containing pharmaceutical substances with their original labels face out to the incoming customers. Mortars and pestles, along with scales and tablet presses, are placed on the countertops as if ready to be put to use. Inside the glass cabinets, you can find perfumes and cosmetics right at the front of the shop. There was also a soda fountain, a staple of any good pharmacy back in the 1920s. But what are the BEST reasons to visit the Newfoundland Pharmacy museum? Below are my top 10 exhibit items that make this place so very special!

#1 Show Globes

When you walk inside, facing out on either corner of the shop are two ornate Show globes. Their golden lustre shines in the window when the shades are open. The show globes would have been used to advertise the pharmacy in the same way barbers used striped poles. The golden eagles hold a giant glass orb from the chains held in their beaks. One of the show globes is filled with blue-coloured water, the other with red. The colours inside the globes were used to advertise medical outbreaks in the city. This could be anything from cholera, syphilis or, in our current climate, covid. This ensured that even people who couldn’t read the newspaper were kept abreast of any fast-spreading diseases.

Show globes date back to the 17th century and originated in England. During this time, many people were illiterate, so coloured globes were an easy way to communicate to the general population. The two globes inside the Pharmacy Museum have named the globes ‘Belladonna’ and ‘Hexamina.’ The names come from common ingredients used in ancient pharmaceuticals which are the favourites of the museum curators.

#2 Ship’s Medicine Chest

At the front of the shop, you’ll immediately be drawn to the large open chest. Like a giant treasure chest. But instead of gold coins and precious gems, this wooden box contained shimmering glass bottles containing life-saving medical treatments. There are a myriad of different liquids and powders hidden away inside the various wooden compartments. The box contains ointments for burns, itching and other skin conditions. It also included a “clap mixture.” This was because sexually transmitted diseases were prevalent on ships and sailors on leave. There were also lots of tonics to treat upset stomachs, fever and constipation. There were compounds used for toothpaste, detergent and aftershave for daily use on the ship as well.

The “poison” chest was locked and only accessible by a key held by the captain. But not to worry, the poison wasn’t used for nefarious purposes. Poison was actually a common ingredient in many medical concoctions. But if not appropriately used, it would indeed be a hazardous thing for just anyone to get their hands on.

Also provided inside the chest was a copy of the Ship Captain’s Medical Guide from 1946. These guides would be held by the captain and could be used to find medical treatments for whatever is necessary. Ships with under 99 people often would not be required to carry a doctor on board. Therefore, first aid courses administered by St. John’s Ambulance service would help captains train for aiding the sick and injured on-board.

#3 Patent & Quack Medicine

One of my favourite types of medical history is “quack remedies.” A quack is a “fraudulent or ignorant pretender to medical skill.” They often will create unproven, usually ineffective, and sometimes downright dangerous medicines and treatments sold directly to the public without the need for a prescription.

Radway’s Ready Relief

The museum’s collection features ‘Radway’s Ready Relief.’ This was a counter-irritant liniment and carminative tonic. The relief medicine claimed to be a universal “cure-all” to help with everything from rheumatism, sciatic, fever and even nervousness! But the “medicine” proved to be filled with ammonia, capsicum (pepper spray), soap, and the primary ingredient was alcohol, at 27%! So more than likely if you took this remedy, you might just be drunk enough to forget about the pain. In the end, the company was charged $50 for their fraudulent claims, although this didn’t stop others from producing fake medicine.

Dr. Wilson’s Herbine Bitters

Dr. Wilson’s Herbine Bitters, from 1880, claimed to make your blood purer! The bitters were said to help with headaches, indigestion and liver problems. But in actuality, it contained more alcohol, which no doubt would have made liver problems even worse.

Dr. Pierce’s Favourite Prescription

Dr. Pierce’s Favourite Prescription was made to appeal to the “weaker sex.” Which in the 1800s referred to women. Dr. Pierce (who actually wasn’t a doctor) created this tonic to “regulate the menstrual function and quiet nervous female irritation.” Back then, the treatment of female problems was widely overlooked and not taken seriously. Often they just wanted to silence women rather than actually look into what was causing the pain. While not listed on the label, the tonic contained dangerous substances, including tincture of opium. The Ladies Home Journal even tried to prove this made a fraud after many women who were given the tonic made several complaints. But they were unable to verify the quackery but continued to advocate against it. This resulted in the journal having to pay Dr. Pierce a hefty fine for slander. Despite being right all along!

Lydia E. Pinkham’s Vegetable Compound

But there were those creating patent medicines that did the right idea and whose medicine had some real health benefits. Seeing how women were treated by the health industry, Lydia E. Pinkham was well known for making homemade remedies in her kitchen. She created treatments using a mixture of alcohol combined with roots and herbs. She would often distribute these to her friends and family, who would rave about the results. When the financial crisis hit, she decided to patent and sell her remedy as Lydia E. Pinkham’s Vegetable Compound. It was marketed to help with menstrual cramps and menopause symptoms. In the 1900s, one of the primary treatments by male doctors for severe menstrual cramps was to surgically remove the ovaries! Which had a 40% mortality rate. So providing an alternative was greatly desired by the public.

Botanical remedies have been used as practical treatments for ages. But she was one first to market them specifically for women. As a woman, she knew what really worked and what didn’t. Pinkham used unicorn root, which helped strengthen the uterine lining preventing the chance of miscarriage. Pleurisy root also helped cure prolapsed uteri. Black cohosh was an anti-inflammatory which helped with menstrual cramping. Lydia became a hero for women and even started a column in a magazine where women could write in with their health issues. Most of these women had been either completely ignored or mistreated by their male doctors and they found refuge in her column. Even though Lydia wasn’t a doctor, she gave voice to these women and acknowledged their pain as real. Which sometimes is exactly what you need to hear.

#4 Poisonous Medicine

Back in the 19th and 20th centuries, you’d be surprised to find that many of the treatments and tonics prescribed by doctors and pharmacists contained POISON! One of the museum’s most prized possessions is the Gibson’s linseed, licorice and chloroform lozenges. You heard that right, chloroform! Chloroform was actually very widely used in medical treatments back then as it had sedative qualities. Which we now know is because it is indeed TOXIC and LETHAL in large quantities. Sure, your cough probably felt better when you were unconscious but used in large doses this could prove fatal.

Belladonna

But an even more popular poison than chloroform was belladonna. Belladonna is a plant whose name in Italian means “beautiful lady.” Originally the plant’s berries were juiced and drank by women to enlarge their pupils. This was thought to give them a more beautiful appearance. But the leaves and the berries are very toxic when taken in even small quantities.

Nevertheless, doctors were obsessed with the results they saw from belladonna. And while toxic, it was true that there was some medicinal benefits from the plant. Belladonna contains atropine and scopolamine, which can relax muscle spasms, regulate heart rate and reduce body secretions (specifically in the stomach.) This resulted in hundreds of drugs being laced with belladonna. Most strangely, Belladonna Cigarettes were prescribed to patients who suffered from asthma! The idea was that the smoke, when inhaled, would relieve the spasm in the lungs. Today, smoking to help with asthma is the most backwards idea, but back then, poison was your first course of action!

#5 Vintage Perscriptions

In a tall glass box, in the front of the shop is a huge stack of old pharmaceutical prescriptions. The museum’s preserved prescriptions are also stored in a huge book that looks like an ancient tomb. While many things have changed over the years, the one thing that remains the same is that doctors’ handwriting is absolutely unreadable. (At least by the general public) But what made reading these prescriptions even more difficult back then was that they were also written in Latin. And unlike today, doctors’ prescriptions were more like a recipe. Not just the name of the pill or cream and the dosage. Doctor’s had to provide the pharmacist with detailed instructions and measurements to prepare medical mixtures using the pharmacy’s base ingredients stored along the walls.

Pharmacy Equipement

The pharmacist would use a variety of different pieces of equipment to make a simple pill. First, they had to precisely measure out the base ingredients using delicate measuring devices. Then the mortar and pestle were used to mix the ingredients into a paste. Often a percolator would be needed to extract medical compounds from plants. Then the pharmacist would have used the pill-rolling machine or pill cachet to create the individual pills. If the mixture was a liquid, they would have to press their own custom-sized corks to suit the size bottle required. Phew, what an exhausting process! 

#6 Cod Oils

Cod is perhaps what Newfoundland is best known for. Usually in fish and chips but also in medicinal oils used throughout the centuries. Cod liver oil was first used as far back as the Viking era. But in the 1800 and 1900s, you’d find it more commonly in European countries like Norway as a nutritional supplement. Since the cod liver contains high amounts of vitamin A and D it was commonly taken to during the winter months. In these Nordic countries, cod oil was a good replacement when there was no fresh meat or vegetables to be had.

In the 1920s, Cod Oil was being produced on mass in Newfoundland. It was discovered that the Newfoundland cod produced a richer level of Vitamin A, so it quickly became the prize place to export medicinal cod oil. For the next 50 years, cod oil was a popular supplement, especially given to children to improve their overall health. I have no idea how they got kids to take it, though, since it tastes exactly how it sounds, like drinking a fish! Today the use of cod oil has all but disappeared in favour of other, less foul-tasting vitamins.

#7 Soda Shop

Today we have SodaStreamers in our house to get on-tap access to addictive bubbly water. But back in the 1920s, the public would flock to drug stores, pharmacies and general stores to get their fix. But back then, soda wasn’t just drunk for pleasure, it was actually a medical treatment. In the 1850s, pharmacists would prescribe soda to people as cures for lethargy and headaches. Although this might sound off, we all know how sugar can give us a boost of energy, and I know lots of people who drink diet coke when they have a migraine. It’s their secret remedy.

Even after soda lost favour with the doctors as a medical treatment, people had already got a taste for the sweet concoction. So pharmacies continued to serve it as a sweet treat. Brand names like Pepsi and Coke began to export their products worldwide. But Noname varieties, made from flavouring agents, were also a popular choice. Often your local pharmacy would carry their own custom blends or unique mixtures.

#8 Vintage Packaging

Although prescriptions were required for many of the more serious remedies, there were also lots of products that the pharmacist you create from their supplies without requiring a doctor’s note. But you could also get handmade home cleaning and cooking products. Since they made so many of these mixtures, pharmacists would often buy a bulk label dispenser, so they didn’t have to handwrite every label along with the instructions of how to use the product.

These mixtures included “fluid extract cascara aromatic”, which was a laxative for children that contained 20% alcohol. “Parrish’s chemical food” was a tonic given to children, containing iron phosphate, carbonate of soda, carbonate of potassium, ammonia water, powdered cochineal, water, sugar and orange-flower water. Another very popular compound used in the kitchen was “Salt Peter”. Before refrigeration, botulism was very prevalent and extremely deadly. While salting meats would help prevent the meat from going bad, saltpetre was developed to help with the home curing of meats to avoid bacteria growth. But the high levels of Sodium nitrate when taken in large quantities was later proven to result in a significant increase in stomach cancer. 

#9 Beauty Products

As someone who loves wearing makeup, I really got a kick out of their collections of vintage cosmetics. Many of the products from their collections are from the Jergens company, a name brand we can still see on pharmacy shelves today! The Andrew Jergens Company was established in 1882 in Cincinnati, Ohio. Although many of us know Jergens best for its lotions and soaps, it was best known back in the early 20th century for its perfumes. Lily of the Valley is a smell I so closely associate with my grandmother and mother. I was amazed to find that it was one of the most popular scents in the Jergens collection. But Jergens also produced other perfumes with such exotic fragrances as Carnation Petals, Japan Rose, Lotus Flower, Scotch Thistle and Lilac Frost.

What many people don’t know about early 20th-century makeup products is that they were often made using the byproducts from, (are you ready?) slaughterhouses! Excess tallow from the slaughtered animals was used to make emollients in cosmetics. Everything from lipstick, eyeshadow and soap. Fats from the animals were also used in face creams and moisturizers!

#10 The Guides!

Honestly, the best part about visit the Newfoundland Museum of Pharmacy is the guides. There is so much to see here, and everything is bound to pique your curiosity. Getting to ask the experts all your questions is such a treat, and it really feels like you’re getting some sort of VIP treatment. So if you’re visiting St. John’s sometime soon, be sure to message the museum to make an appointment for your own private tour!

The post 10 Reasons Why You Need to Visit Newfoundland Pharmacy Museum the BEST Hidden Gem in St. John’s first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

#1 The Musée d’Orsay | Paris, France

The Musée d’Orsay is centred right in the heart of Paris, the city of love. It is filled with romantic masterpieces and alluring impressionist paintings. The museum is housed in what used to be the Beaux-Arts train station built in 1898. Elements of the old train station can still be seen throughout the museum.

This museum gets its reputation as one of the most romantic museums since it houses the largest impressionist and post-impressionist paintings in the world. Works of art from Monet, Degas, Manet and Renoir decorate the walls of the museum. These soft and subtle paintings lull you into a sweet and sensual world. No one can stand in front of Monet’s Lily Pond and not be transported. And Renoir’s scenes of passionate delights in the Dancing at the Moulin de la Galette in Montmartre makes you want to grab your partner’s hand and dance the day away yourself.

Google Galleries

Through the Google online galleries, you can see works from Monet, Manet, Degas, Renoir, Cézanne, Seurat, Sisley, Gauguin, and Van Gogh. Zoom right in to see the tiny textures of the brush strokes. You can study the gentle expressions on even the background characters’ faces! Getting this close to these famous paintings is something you can only experience online.

#2 Museum of Broken Relationships | Zagreb, Croatia

An art collection dedicated to the end of a relationship might seem like an odd choice when listing off Romantic museums. But the Museum of Broken Relationships is one of the most emotionally resonant places in the world. Whether they are stories of sadness, anger or sentimentality, each piece in the museum tells the story of the power of love. And how it can change your life forever.

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Right now, the entire collection of the Museum of Broken Relationships is now up online. We’ve all experienced aspects of these stories in our own lives, and it’s only in learning from them that we can grow. Valentines doesn’t have to be celebrated just by those in a relationship, but also by those who love themselves. Even if you’re single or going through a painful breakup, there is a sense of community and understanding surrounding you, even in this online gallery. If you are in a relationship, reading through these might be the icebreaker you need to share your own stories. It might allow you to open up in ways you might not expect.

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#3 The Louvre | Paris, France

The Louvre is home to some of the most romantic sculptures from around the world. Whether is the Winged Victory of Samothrace or carvings of Eros and Psyche’s carving by the illustrious Antonio Canova or the famed Venus de Milo the museum is filled with passionate treasures.

You can view the entire museum in 4K through the virtual video tour below! Pause as you go and discuss with your Palentine, lover or partner when something catches your eye – for better or for worse! There is so much to learn from discussing art. You don’t need to be an art historian or scholar to talk about it either. This easy couch viewing is a great way to discover what you love and what interests you. And then once the world opens back up again, you can go out and pursue more of that!

#4 V&AVictoria and Albert Museum | London, England

Queen Victoria and Prince Albert had one of the most poetic relationships in English history. Most court marriages are arranged to secure political alliances, so it’s rare that we see a case of true love in the monarchy. Queen Victoria loved Prince Albert so profoundly that after his death, she wore black for the rest of her life in honour of his passing and the overwhelming grief she felt in his absence. She built this museum to honour his memory. He always wanted the people to be knowledgeable and share in the riches of his kingdom. Here, at the V&A, the public can view the treasures of England’s past, present and precious objects from around the world.

Gifts of Jewels

Some of the most romantic parts of the collection include illustrated manuscripts of famous love songs from the Renaissance and sultry sculptures depicting some of the greatest love stories from antiquity. The V&A also houses over 3,000 pieces of jewellery, many of which were given as tokens of love. Here you can look down at medieval love rings, a pendant given to Elizabeth I from one of her lovers and sparkling tiaras worn by princesses on their wedding day. Their fantastic jewellery collection has all been documented online for your viewing pleasure. See what your partner thinks is your style or pick out your favourites piece for a friend as you pretend to be princesses!

#5 The Uffizi Museum | Florence, Italy

The building we now know as the Uffizi Museum didn’t start off as a museum at all. It was once the palace of Cosimo I de Medici, designed by Giorgio Vasari. These two names, Vasari and Medici, are perhaps the two most essential words in art history. The Medici family was one of the wealthiest families in Florence and shaped the history of Italy and art history forver.

Although not famous for paintings, Vasari is whom we refer to as “the first art historian.” He created an almost complete book called The Lives of the Artists. He grew up with Michelangelo, Donatello, Titian, Leonardo Da Vinci, Raphael and hundreds more. His biographies are annotated with juicy pieces of gossip and personal anecdotes, which provide a glimpse into these historic artists’ real world. His love for art was unending. The same goes for the Medici’s. Although it might not be love between two people, these people’s devotion and affection for art and artists run deeper and more profoundly than many human romances.

Google Galleries

10 of the museum’s most popular galleries are now on display on their website in 360°! You can virtually walk through the gallery and zoom into each painting along the wall. If you are interested in learning more about a specific picture, then head over to Google Art and Culture Galleries. Over here, you can click on any image that catches your eye. It will bring you into a detailed description of the piece and more information about the artists. They also have a few online exhibitions. One of these walks you through every last detail of Piero di Cosimo’s famous panting “Perseus Freeing Andromeda.”

#6 Belvedere Palace and Museum | Vienna, Austria

The Belvedere Museum was once a vast baroque Palace, home to the ruling Habsburg dynasty and built for Prince Eugene of Savoy. The Prince always loved art and started collecting at a young age. In 1781 the Prince opened up parts of his imperial collection up to the public. Over the years, the state collection grew and grew, and in 1903 the Moderne Galerie was opened as a public museum. Its curator, a subordinate to the Minister of Culture, made sure to acquire art from all different epochs representing a wide breadth of art from Austria’s history. 

But what makes this museum worthwhile on our virtual journey through romantic museums is its collection of Klimt masterpieces. His pièce de résistance is entitled The Kiss and is widely thought of as one of the most romantic and passionate paintings ever made. Klimt was a fiery painter and lover. His favourite subject was the female body, and his works are all marked by intense eroticism. The Kiss depicts two figures joined together in a tight embrace as they stand on the edge of a cliff. Even the shape of the Kiss has suggestive symbolism. The man and woman together form the shape of a phallus – it doesn’t get more on the nose than that.

Google Galleries

Google’s Arts and Culture contains Belvedere’s complete collection of digitized artwork for you to view and read about. They also have an excellent digital exhibition on ‘The Kiss.‘ I was lucky enough to see this work of art in person and was absolutely mesmerized by it. Getting the chance to learn a little bit more about the painting was a great way to recall some of those treasured memories.

Belvedere’s Online Gallery

One of the most unique features of Belvedere’s online gallery is its use of augmented reality. You can visit their website and use an app on your phone to study a series of Egon Schiele’s paintings in greater detail. When you use your phone to scan the image on the screen, it will trigger an audio track that guides you through the work of art. You can also use your phone as a scanner, using infrared technology to uncover hidden secrets beneath the finished painting.

#7 Louisiana Museum of Modern Art | Øresund Sound in Humlebæk, Denmark

The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is in a world of its own. Unlike most museums, it’s not in the centre of a big city. To get here, you have to take a train from the centre of the town and travel out to the calm countryside—a perfect weekend getaway for you and your loved one. The idyllic, breathtaking landscape surrounding the museum is in itself what makes this place so romantic.

As you approach the museum, you wander through a small Danish waterside fishing village. You pass little cottages and tiny farms when suddenly you come upon an unassuming yet contemporary looking building. The sound of water can be heard in the distance, and as you pass through an archway of trees, you come upon the museum’s entrance.

Outdoor Modern Art

Inside is a mixture of indoor and outdoor exhibitions. The combination of art, architecture and scenery is impeccable. You weave through the collections at your own pace. The outdoor sculptures are hidden among the trees and seem like a little secret you can discover along the way. The way you view the art is a very personal experience. Modern art can be challenging to define, and it is more up to the viewers on interpretation. Discussing the ideas and emotions that each piece brings forth inside you and your partner is such a bonding adventure. One that is sure to spark some passionate feelings.

Outside Suburbia has an excellent virtual written and photographic tour that guides you through the museum in the most charming and captivating ways. The short video I’ve inserted below was filmed by the museum and gives you a glimpse of the incredible outdoor sculpture gallery. Another great way to experience a part of this collection from your sofa at home.

#8 Rodin Museum | Paris, France

The Rodin Museum houses a collection of works from its namesake, Auguste Rodin. Rodin was one of the first sculptors of his age to depart from traditional sculpting methods (generally thought to be overly perfect and unrealistic). He loved imperfections and wanted to depict a truer to form a representation of the human figure. Instead of stiffly posed allegories, we were suddenly exposed to voluptuous, undulating women with wills and desires of their own. Like Klimt, Rodin was an intensely passionate man and this vigour can be throughout his work. Rodin had a love affair with love itself, and all of his pieces speak to a visceral part of ourselves. They awaken us. And for the lovers, they might ever enliven something else…

While The Kiss is the most notable sculpture by Rodin, many others deserve their moment in the sun. Nymphs Playing, Eternal Idol and The Cathedral are all splendidly tender pieces that bring me to my knees. And best of all, they each have been captured virutally to be viewed online.

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Rodin’s Sculptures

Many of Rodin’s sculptures are carved in what feels like a fiery outburst. Like the figures burst forth from the stone. They are partly unfinished, as love itself as an unfinished masterpiece, never to be fully understood. That sense of mystery is what fuels the fire of love and keeps us intrigued and impassioned.

To see a complete collection of his work online, head off to the Google Arts and Culture collection. Here you can select the pieces which pique your interest and find out more information on them. To get even more insight into the artworks, you can head over to the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts (I know, a little bit of a detour). This museum also holds various copies of Rodin’s pieces. They offer amazing audio guides to each of the sculptures.

These audio tours are a great way to learn more about the artists and the object. If you’d rather sit back and watch something then the video below is a relaxing tour of the museum set to romantic music. While the video was shot a while ago, I find the footage to be a lovely and nostalgic view of the gallery, in all its simplicity and grace.

#9 Thorvaldsen Museum | Copenhagen, Denmark

This won’t be on many other lists. It’s a bit of a wild card. And I think I like that. It’s nice to have something a bit out of the ordinary at the top of the list because if it wasn’t, you could be reading this anywhere else. Thorvaldsen is a mostly unknown name outside of Europe. Still, within the continent, he is among some of the most famous sculptors! Thorvaldsen was born in Copenhagen in 1770 to poor parents, but lucky for him his father was a carver. From a young age, Thorvaldsen learned to sculpt; his eyes would trace over an object and he would memorize its lines and curves. From only his memory he could then copy the form onto a piece of wood almost perfectly.

He learned to appreciate the subtle curvatures of the human body. Eventually, his skills were recognized by the art community. He got a scholarship and the opportunity to travel to Rome. There, he studied under some of the great masters and worked there until 1838. When he was in Italy, he took on many prestigious clients and commissions. When he finally returned to Denmark, heralded as a national hero, a museum was built in his honour to house his works. Unlike many artists who never get to see their creations loved by the public, Thorvaldsen had the opportunity to see the museums built from the ground up and watch the people come to admire his artworks.

Neo-Classical Sculpture

The basis of Thorvaldsen’s oeuvre is Neo-classical art. Greek and Roman myths created the universe where his art lived. The characters and stories he told through still marble still manage to move the most hardened heart. Cupid, one of the most notorious symbols on Valentine’s Day, is celebrated throughout the Thorvaldsen’s Museum. So many of his sculptures are so sensual in nature. The way he can turn hard stone to butter to capture the softness of skin and the brush of a caress.

Google Arts and Culture have a beautifully digital collection of his sculptures that you can view online. They also have the museum captured in 360 in google street view, so you can walk through the museum yourself to discover treasures around every corner.

You can also head over to my blog post, where you get a complete tour of the museum and detailed descriptions about the objects and the artist’s history. It’s a wonderful companion to Google street view and will make you feel like you’re really there!

Hopefully, this list gave you some ideas of how to find that sense of wanderlust even amid this pandemic! Sometimes you just need to get a little creative. Let me know in the comment what your favourite romantic museum or gallery is!

Happy (virtual) Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Most Romantic Museums to Visit Virtually on Valentines first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.