Truthful, this isn’t my favourite part of town. I’m not a luxury gal, I’m definitely more hipster than heiress. But after avoiding the area I finally made the effort to check it out and was amazed at what I found! There are some really incredible gems out here if you know where to look. But even I was wrapped up in the spell that is Polanco.

Leaning in Exploring Luxury

I made it a point to check out some of the luxury shopping and suddenly I understood, at least partially, what all the fuss was about. As someone who usually just buys her perfume at Lush, I was blown away by a hedonistic shopping experience at Xinu! I even came out with my first ever luxury perfume purchase! One of the greatest parts about a trip to Mexico City is that because you’ll eat at so many low-priced restaurants, you can afford that one-time splurge. We also made a point to get reservations at Pujol. This was my first time eating at a Michelin Star restaurant. It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience and one I will never forget! 

So if you’re like me and you’re looking to check out Polanco, but step past more than just the fancy shops, come with me on our Self Guided Tour of the luscious tree-lined street of Polanco! And not to worry! Polanco has more than just 5-star restaurants. There is also plenty of cheap eats, free entertainment and incredible sights found along the way.

Table Of Contents

1. Location & Access
2. History
3. Where to Stay?
4. Walking Tour
6. Avenue Horacio
7. Plaza Uruguay
8. Av. Isaac Newton
9. Parque Lincoln
10. Tianguis Parque Lincoln
11. El Moro
12. Cafebrería El Péndulo
13. Pasaje Polanco
14. Avenida Presidente Masaryk
15. La Casa del Pastor
16. Shopping in Polanco
17. Americas Park
18. St. Augustine Parish
19. TANE Instagram Wall
20. El Turix
21. Iglesia de San Ignacio de Loyola
22. El Palacio de Hierro Polanco
23. Soumaya Museum
24. Dining in Polanco
25. Autocinema Coyote

Location & Access

Polanco is located north of Paseo de la Reforma and just south of Avenida Ejercito Nacional. To the east and west Polanco sandwiches between Avenida Mariano Escobedo and Boulevard Manuel Avila Camacho. You can always easily Uber in and out of Polanco but if you want to take the subway to Metro Polanco. The Metro Polanco station is located right beside our first stop on the tour!

History

The Name ‘Polanco’

Long before the Spanish arrived, what is now known as “Mexico City” was first the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan. During those fertile years, a great river passed through what is now Avenue Campos Elisios in Polanco. In the 16th century, after the conquest, the land here was gifted to Hernán Cortés by the King of Spain. Cortes took control and named the river after the Spanish Jesuit Juan Alfonso de Polanco. The Polanco family were considered almost royalty and were highly regarded members of the board of King of Spain. A majority of the family members travelled to Mexico City as newly created “officers of the Crown”. This is where we get the name of the neighbourhood today. Sadly, the river was lost when the Spanish drained the valley to make more room for expansion. But the name lives on.

Polanco Farms

As time went on, the land became occupied by farmers. It was primarily used to plant mulberry trees and breed silkworms. The 16th-century Hacienda de Los Morales, one of the largest Polanco farmsteads, was established. We can even visit the old homestead today as it is still standing on the neighbourhood’s west side. It is now occupied by an incredible restaurant where you can dine inside a piece of history.

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20th Century

The area really only came into being as we know it today in the 1930s. The rural farmland was redeveloped by the enterprising Aleman family. They foresaw the need for further residential expansion in the city. Soon, Polanco was covered in large mansions with pristine tree-lined streets.

During this time, various foreign communities also began migrating to this area of town. As it was brand new they were able to establish little community circles, Even today you can find vibrant Jewish, Spanish, German and Lebanese pockets inside Polanco. Polanco is where the majority of the city’s working synagogues can still be found.

Spanish Revival Polanco

The most popular architectural style for these new mansions was Californian colonial or Spanish Revival style. These houses are easily identifiable by their curved arches, white stucco walls, terracotta roof tiles, wrought iron work railings and window grilles, and fantastical courtyards with expansive arcades. You’ll see many examples of this along Campos Elíseos, Avenida Jules Verne and Champs Elysées.

Introduction of Modernism

Later on in the 1950s, we saw the explosion of functionalist style defined by functional building materials and low levels of ornamentations. Many buildings are nothing more than concrete slabs, steel sheets, and exposed wood beams. We can see examples of this with buildings like the National Conservatory of Music, the Franco-Mexican Lyceum, and the Spanish Hospital.

The Population Boom

The boom of population expansion in Polanco didn’t occur until after the 1960s. After the previously elite neighbourhoods of Roma and Condesa began to open up to lower-class families with the introduction of rent-controlled apartments, the upper class of those barrios were looking for greener pastures. Although there was still some free real estate, the solution to the large influx of people was to introduction luxury high-rise residential buildings. These were first introduced in the west end where large wide multi-lanes streets were built around these huge multi-storey apartments.

Mid-Century Modern

But my favourite aspect of Polanco’s architecture is the rise of mid-century design. In anticipation of the 1968 Olympics in Mexico City there were many new hotels built to accommodate the influx of visitors. During this time the cult of personalities would soon return to the streets of Polanco. Most notable is the Camino Real Polanco Hotel. This hotel became an icon of the Mexican Modernism movement. This style featured geometric shapes, bright, bold colours, sloping low-rise structures reminiscent of Aztec, pre-hispanic structures. While the Camino Real was the first of this kind of design, years later, the experimentation of Mexican Modernism would continue in buildings like the Museo Jumex, Sala de Arte Publico Siqueiros, Luis Barragán’s Casa Barragán, Juan O’Gorman’s Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo’s Studio House and the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) Campus.

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Where to Stay?

Camino Real Polanco Mexico $$

The Camino Real Polanco is a beautiful hotel/museum designed by renowned architect Ricardo Legorreta. The space opened its doors to the public on July 25th, 1968. It was famous for combining modern features with shapes reminiscent of pre-hispanic pyramids when it opened. Elements from these merge to create an architectural masterpiece! There is something so nostalgic about the 60’s decor, which is so atmospheric. Plus, as it is not a high-end luxury hotel, the rooms come at a reasonable price for the area! If you have a little more cash to spend, book one suite as the retro decor is incredible. The view out towards the best architectural features of the hotel is wonderfully highlighted.

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Orchid House Polanco $$$

Nothing feels more like Mexican royalty than a stay at the Orchid House Polanco. The Orchid House provides visitors with the exquisite feeling of being at home with the comforts of a hotel. Hidden away inside a 100-year-old mansion, the hotel is filled with blue and coloured stained glass, antique barro floors hand-painted with images of Don Quijote and Shakespeare. There are also neoclassic mouldings and rich, traditional antique pink cantera stone. Each room is exquisitely designed and features textiles and handmade decorations from local artisan communities.

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Walking Tour

To start the perfect morning in Polanco, you must head over to is owned and operated by Chef Enrique Olvera. Olvera is infamous in the Mexico City food scene as he is also the chef who put Pujol on the map! But unlike Pujol, which is hard to get reservations at and costs a pretty penny, Eno is far more accessible for the everyday traveller.

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At Eno, you can try a traditional Mexican breakfast, like a plate of the classic Chillaques Verde for only cost $7 US! Their daily selection of pan dulce (sweet bread) is incredible! At only $3 a piece, it’s worth ordering a few for the table to share.

Avenue Horacio

From here, let’s take a walk down Avenue Horacio towards our next stop. Avenue Horacio is a perfect example of residential life in Polanco. Tall and orderly, minimalist and functionalist buildings line either side of wide, tree-lined avenues. But unlike the rougher charm that avenues in Condesa or Roma have, Polanco’s avenues are pristine. American-esque evergreen trees tower over the tiled pathways.

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Plaza Uruguay

Before turning south, make a quick stop inside Plaza Uruguay. Marking the entrance to the park is a large statue of General Jose Artigas. General Jose Artigas fought in the Latin American Wars of Independence. He battled against the Spanish Empire and is considered a national treasure here in Mexico City. The park is a beautiful example of the green spaces introduced into Colonia in the 20th century. In the centre of the Plaza is a mammoth concrete sculpture. Water cascades down off the sides of the brutalist-inspired fountain which is surprisingly intriguing despite its simplistic design.

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Av. Isaac Newton

The next block over is the street named after physicist Isaac Newton. Head along this street towards the southwest. As we’ve noted before in the Historic Centre, Mexico City has an amazing collection of street names. Each neighbourhood has a different theme. In upper-class Polanco, many of the streets are named after famous authors, sciences and philosophers. You’ll find the authors like Oscar Wilde, Julio Verne, Dickens, and Hans Christian Andersen. Poets like Moliere, Tennyson, Dumas, and Edgar Allen Poe. They’ve honoured scientists like Galileo, Aristoteles and Newton all with their own streets. And finally, there are the philosophers Plato, Hegel, and Socrates.

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Parque Lincoln

Av. Isaac Newton ends at the corner of the great Parque Lincoln. While many large mansions in Polanco already had private gardens, Parque Lincoln was the first public park. This allowed all residents to feel at ease outside.

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Although naming the park after an American president might seem odd, Lincoln was very well-loved by Mexicans. Lincoln opposed the US invasion of Mexico during the 1840s and from that moment won over the Mexicans. The large statue of Lincoln, made by Augustus Saint-Gaudens, stands in the park’s center. It was a gift to the city of Mexico by US president Lyndon B. Johnson when he visited Mexico City in 1966.

The park was inaugurated in 1938 by President Lázaro Cárdenas. Back then it was called Parque de Polanco or Parque del Palomar. A Polmar is a “dovecote” or house for pigeons or doves. Originally, the famous Parque Lincoln Clock Tower was a simple dovecote where the city’s dove population would come to roost.

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Tianguis Parque Lincoln

If you find yourself in town on a Saturday, you’ll find the park awash with fuschia-coloured tarps. These can be spotted a mile away and mark the Tianguis Parque Lincoln or Lincoln Park flea market. Everything from flowers to ceramics and handicrafts can be found here! Everything from quesadillas, sopes, gorditas, pozole, carnitas, chilaquiles, fresh fruit and more can all be found here under the tents. The neighbourhood is a bit more upmarket, so while the food and goods aren’t as cheap as elsewhere the quality is also higher.

Sculptures

In addition to the statue of Lincoln, the park is filled with incredible sculptures. These outdoor works of art feature famous activists like Nelson Mandela and Martin Luther King Jr. Other sculptures are much more subjective and ask the viewer to interpret. My favourite is the woman intertwined in a root swirling around a city. Each tendril burst out of the ground.

Aviary

Hidden away inside the park, inside a beehive-shaped building, is the Parque Lincoln Aviary. The Aviary was originally built in 1938. Although it closed down for almost four decades, it has since come back into fashion. Entry inside is only $10 pesos (US 50 cents)! If you have kids, this is a great option to entertain them. Inside you’ll find over 20 different species of birds. There are peacocks, parakeets, sparrows, pigeons and, of course, even parrots—all leaving in harmony.

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Nelson Mandela Cultural Space

Across from the Aviary, you’ll see another white stucco building, this is the Nelson Mandela Cultural Space. Inside, music and dance classes are offered to people of all ages. Stop outside the windows to see if you can hear any guitars or violins being played. Listen carefully as you walk by as on quiet days the music echoes throughout the park.

Clock Tower

One of the most iconic images of Parque Lincoln is the clock tower that rises out above the trees. The Torre del Reloj or Clock Tower today is used as a public art gallery. But it is only open when they have a current exhibition on or not. Worth poking your head inside just to see.

Across the street, make a brief stop to see the incredible home at the intersection of Luis Urbina and Alejandro Dumas. Here you’ll find one of the finest examples of Colonial Californian design. The house was built for the lottery magnate Elias Henaine and designed by architect Eduardo Fuhrken Meneses. So many of these “Mexican” looking buildings were made for immigrants. Helaine, who was Lebanese, request this type of style as a means to “fit in” to her new home country.

Park of Mirrors

Another nickname for Parque Lincoln is “Park of Mirrors.” The names comes from the two famous reflecting pools on either side of Calle Julio Verne. Especially on the weekends, these reflecting pools are a popular spot where you’ll find model ship collectors. They come from all over to place their boats in the water for the viewing pleasure of the surrounding public.

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El Moro

Head north along with Calle Julio Verne. These three little islands across from the park, where traffic swerves around, are home to some of the chicest cafes and restaurants in Polanco. And many of them are pretty well priced for such a high-end area. Boicot Café is my fave coffee chain in CDMX and worth checking out if you need a caffeine pick me up! But the main reason to make your way around the central circuit is to check out the Polanco branch of Churrería El Moro.

The original Churrería El Moro, in the Centro Histórico, is the oldest churro restaurant in Mexico City, established in 1935. A Spanish immigrant was shocked upon moving to Mexico City that there weren’t any churro shops in town. So he started his own little churro cart he wheeled around. The treat caught on immediately and it didn’t take long for him to buy a permanent location where he opened his first shop. Since then the company has only grown with locations all over Mexico City.

Hot Chocolate Dip

The only way to eat a churro from El Moro is with a cup of hot chocolate. You take that hot piece of fried cinnamon dough and dip it right into the hot cocoa. El Moro has four types of hot chocolates; Mexican (traditional and light ), French (with vanilla), Spanish (sweet and thick) and Special (bitter). On the other hand, hot chocolate is as old as Mexico itself. The drinking of chocolate can be traced back to Aztec times and was often referred to as “the drink of the gods.” The churro and hot chocolate as the culinary interpretation of the blending of these two cultures.

Cafebrería El Péndulo

Make a quick detour east along Calle Virgilio and up Calle Alejandro Dumas towards the Polanco branch of Cafebrería El Péndulo. Cafebrería El Péndulo is my favourite book store chain in Mexico City. They have locations in Condesa, Roma and San Angel. If you spot one, you know this is a great place to rest your feet. There is no disputing that their Polanco location is the absolute penultimate in architecture and design. This store is famous for being one of the most popular Instagram locations in the city.

The towering bookshelves are framed by these long-hanging plants. Making you feel like you’ve entered a greenhouse that is growing books. The swirling wooden staircase with bright teal banisters frames the entire bookshop. The entire place just feels cozy, modern and vibrant all at once. The roof of the building is made of semi-opaque glass. This allows natural light to pour into the main gallery creating the ideal space for reading.

Cafeteria

The reason these stores are called “Cafebrerías,” is that each one comes complete with a small cafe. Couches and chairs dot the entire second floor where you can sit for hours, enjoying watching people peruse the book selection while enjoying a lovely coffee. I often Uber up to Polanco just to sit and enjoy a coffee inside El Péndulo. They have a great selection of English books. Therefore, I am never strong enough not to leave without a new book in hand. Something always calls my name.

Pasaje Polanco

Jump back across the street and pop and enter into the Pasaje Polanco. The Pasaje Polanco, originally named the Pasaje Comercial, is an open-air shopping centre. The ground floor is littered with chic tiendas (boutiques) and above this, there are residential apartments. Even if you have no interest in shopping, this building is an architectural wonder. It’s stunning but has a surprisingly complicated history.

Colonial Californian Architecture

The complex was opened in 1939 and designed by Francisco J. Serrano in what we now call Colonial Californian style. Serrano was the first to define the Colonial Californian architectural style. He frequently travelled to Los Angeles to purchase films for a movie theatre he owned in Mexico. Everywhere he looked in Los Angeles, he saw a style called Spanish Colonial Revival. This style featured red-tiled roofs, arched passageways, iron-grille windows, Talavera tiles, and white stucco. But anyone looking at this can clearly see the Mexican influence. But by referring to it as “Spanish,” it held a more European cache to Americans who looked down on Mexico. Calling it Spanish Colonial design erased the true influence that Mexican art and architecture always held in America. 

This style would define the Californian architecture of the 1920s. It was so popular that a few years later, it was adopted here in Mexico City. But instead of drawing from their history, they took on the naming convention of ‘Colonial Californian’ architecture. And continued to be inspired by the more watered-down version of their past. The blueprint of these Californian buildings was fairly standardized. They consisted of the elements mentioned above and also featured a large interior courtyard. This courtyard was where shops would be installed on the ground level. While above, apartments would be built that would look out onto the semi-private courtyard below. Today, everyone has to admit the architecture is absolutely beautiful. But it’s a fascinating history to see how Mexican designs became Americanized. And then returned back to Mexico but as a shadow of their former self.

Avenida Presidente Masaryk

Exit visa Avenida Presidente Masaryk and make sure to take a second look back at the facade of the Pasaje Polanco as it’s truly spectacular from this vantage point. Avenida Presidente Masaryk is home to some of the country’s most prestigious and expensive restaurants and boutiques. It is considered the most exclusive avenue in Latin America, the Mexican version of ‘Rodeo Drive‘.

The Avenida Presidente Masaryk, is named after a Czech president Tomáš Masaryk. Tomáš Masaryk was the first president of Czechoslovakia when it became an independent country. Mexicans deeply revered countries that became independent as they themselves know the power that comes with independence. But the other reason Presidente Masaryk is admired in Polanco is due to the large Jewish community that lived here. Masaryk was a staunch defender of the Jewish people in Czechoslovakia. A statue of President Masaryk was donated by Prague in 2000 and installed along the street bearing his name. The same statue can also be found outside Prague Castle. Linking the two countries forever.

La Casa del Pastor

If you’re hungry and aren’t looking to spend a fortune, head to La Casa del Pastor. This little taco restaurant sits in one most exclusive areas in the city. And yet at around 40 pesos/taco (US $2) it’s very reasonably priced! You fill out a little paper sheet and tick off how many of each taco you’d like to get. There is such a huge selection of options here. The tacos pastor are their specialty. But you can also try Pollo (chicken), bistec (steak), Costilla (rib), lomito adobado (marinated tenderloin), chorizo, vegetarian and more! Honestly, when you see a menu this deep, you know the quality can’t be the best, but you really can’t beat the locations.

Don’t fill up too much as we’ll pass by another popular taco spot later. But in case you just want to sit and enjoy the view this place won’t break the bank! Get a spot on the patio if you can and you’ll really get your money’s worth.

Shopping in Polanco

From here, you can continue west along Av. Pdte. Masaryk where our tour continues, or you can take a break to do some shopping. I am working on the entire post of my favourite shops in Polanco that aren’t just international luxury brands. But in the meantime, if you’re looking for unique shops to check out, you can head east to Uriarte Talavera Polanco. Uriarte Talavera Polanco has some of the best ceramic tiles from Puebla, Mexico. The shop was established in 1824 and features classic designs and modern takes on the world-class pottery made in Puebla.

As mentioned before, Xinú Perfumes is the most incredible perfume shop. One of the most transformative experiences I’ve ever had. And on top of that, the staff were incredibly kind. There was no pressure to buy of the judgement of your financial status when you walked in. Something I’ve definitely experienced in high-end stores like Louis Vuitton, Cartier or Dolce & Gabbana found in Polanco. Xinú’s philosophy is that it appeals to our olfactory memory. Their perfumes were all unlike anything I had smelled before, and so rich even a tiny whiff transcended me into another realm. It’s well worth the price tag but honestly pretty reasonable when it comes to high-end perfume.

IKAL is a beautifully curated store featuring burgeoning designers’ contemporary design objects and clothes. Lots of modern and handmade pieces to be found here and even if the price tag is pretty steep, you feel inspired just browsing.

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Americas Park

If shopping isn’t your thing, head north along Alfredo de Musset towards Parque America. Parque America or American Park is a shady and vibrant park where the community comes out to play. Many people are out skateboarding, doing martial arts in the square or just relaxing with ice cream on one of the many comfortable benches. Locals mill about walking their dogs and chatting with each other about the latest gossip.

In the park, you’ll find a statue of Paul P. Harris. Harri was an American lawyer from Chicago, Illinois. He founded the club that became the humanitarian organization Rotary International in 1905. The park is another spectacular sight during the Jacaranda season which the purple trees bloom encircling the park in a colourful ring.

St. Augustine Parish

Towering above the conifer trees and leafy palms is the arched roof of the Church of San Agustín. This church is such a unique architectural wonder. It was designed by Leonardo Noriega and engineer Juan Valero Capetillo in 1949. The church’s facade features this monumental stone front. Most notable for the six hollow arches framing the pinnacle. The concave dome above the entrance to the church is adorned with reliefs. They feature images of the first seven Augustinians who arrived in America.

TANE Instagram Wall

Head back or continue to walk west along Avenida Presidente Masaryk. Here is where you can peek into the windows of some of the most expensive and exclusive stores in all of Mexico City. Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Montblanc, Rolex, Cartier and more. The windows displays here are always stupendous, so don’t be shy about taking a look. But one of the most photographed places in all of Mexico City has got to the be outside Tane. This jewellery store’s bright pink-painted facade also features a wall of fence cacti. Framed within the cacti is a vibrant neon sign which screams, “Mexico Mi Amor” or Mexico My Love. Almost everyone who passes by loves to get a snap in front of it! And honestly, who can blame them?

El Turix

Our second taco stop of the day is at El Turix. Winding down a little side street, this unassuming, practically standing-room-only restaurant is a hidden gem of the neighbourhood. El Turix specializes in cochinita pibil, a taco variation that comes from the Yucatán Peninsula. Cochinita pibil is made from a fatty slab of pork shoulder that has been slow-cooked until it just falls apart. It is marinated in achiote paste which lends a peppery flavour to the meat. The meat is also marinated with oranges to give it a sweet accompaniment to the slightly bitter achiote. Even after cooking, the pork is left to soak in the marinade juices. This gives you a slightly messy taco, but you’ll eat it up so quick you will barely notice! Tacos are only $18 pesos (less than US $1), so you can load up!

Iglesia de San Ignacio de Loyola

Head back up to Avenida Presidente Masaryk and continue north along Avenue Moliere. On the left side of the road, hidden behind a startlingly large, stark white wall, is the San Ignacio de Loyola Church. Turn just around the corner of Avenue Horacio, and suddenly the modernist church reveals itself to you. The church was completed in 1961 by famed architect Juan Sordo. Its sharp triangular structure is covered in handmade yellow ceramics. In the sunlight it shines like gold in the light of day.

If the church is open, be sure to step inside the Jesuit temple. Walking inside the incredible stained glass window bathes the atrium in rainbows of light. The metal gables that hold up the roof create this intricate web of metal above your head. It is truly one of the unique churches in the city and a little secret many people don’t even know if there.

El Palacio de Hierro Polanco

Another modernist architectural marvel of Polanco is El Palacio de Hierro. Located just across the street from the church. El Palacio de Hierro has been open since 1891, but their original flagship store is located in the Historic Centre. But their history dates back even further. In 1850 Frenchman Victor Gassier moved to Mexico City and opened Las Fábricas de Francia, or the Factories of France. The shop sold the best of french fashions imported from Europe.

El Palacio de Hierro History

Gassier joined forces with Alexander Reynaud in the 1890s to build Mexico City’s first upscale department store. They were inspired by Le Bon Marché in Paris, Saks Fifth Avenue in New York and Harrods in London. The name “El Palacio de Hierro” means the Iron Palace. It was given this nickname after opening since the department store was the first iron and steel structure to be built in Mexico City. People would pass by during its contribution in awe of the modern building materials. The company took advantage of the publicity by renaming the company El Palacio de Hierro.

The Move to Polanco

Eventually, the store outgrew its location in the Historical Centre. The company wanted to aim not only to expand but bring in more expensive stores to serve a different type of clientele. In 2016 to spent US$300 million to build the new El Palacio de Hierro here in Polanco. The shopping mall is spread out over 55,200 square metres and is the largest department store in Latin America!

Soumaya Museum

Continue north and turn west along Ejército Nacional Mexicano. This busy street is replete with Jacaranda trees come to the springtime! Turn up north along F. C. de Cuernavaca, where you have a spectacular view of the Soumaya Museum as you approach. The Museo Soumaya is one of my favourite types of museums. It is not controlled and operated by the government but instead features one man’s private collection. 

Carlos Slim Helú

Carlos Slim Helú is a Mexican telecommunications magnate. From 2010 to 2013 he was ranked by the Forbes business magazine as the richest person in the world! He is even the largest single shareholder of The New York Times. As such, the man can afford a lot of really, really high-valued art. 

Slim named the ‘Soumaya Museum‘ after his wife, Soumaya Domit, who died in 1999. Carlos wanted to share his art with the public. Instead of just keeping it to himself. The collection was so important to his wife and sharing it with the world felt like a way to keep her alive.

But Carlos wanted to give access to these incredible works of art to everyone, no matter their class or financial status. Therefore, the museum is FREE to enter. And not just on Sundays, like some of the other city museums, but EVERY DAY. 

Architecture

The museum is located inside the Plaza Carso. It is also considered one of the most attractive modern architectural structures in all of Mexico City. Designed by Mexican architect Fernando Romero but engineered by famed architect Frank Gehry. Those who know Frank Gehry‘s work, you can almost identify the building straight away. There are so many iconic elements in the design. The building seems to be twisting itself straight out of the ground. Over 16,000 hexagonal aluminum tiles were used to cover the exterior. To hold up all these tiles, an exoskeleton was built with 28 vertical curved steel columns and seven beams encircling the structure. This design was inspired by offshore oil rigs. Not surprisingly, the building cost almost $800 million to build. A testament to Slim’s enormous fortune that he could afford such a construction.

Interior

The museum contains over 66,000 pieces of art valued at over 700 million dollars! The collection features art from all different periods and artists all over the world. There are religious relics, European masters, Mexican artists, and even the largest collection of pre-Hispanic and colonial-era coins. I adore personal collections since they truly tell a story about the owner. What Slim and his wife were drawn to, what they were passionate about.

And what they wanted to see upon their walls or in their home. The collection features the largest group of sculptures by Auguste Rodin outside France. Slim’s wife loved Rodin more than any other artist, and their collection is a testament to this love.

When you enter the building, you pass through a narrow entryway into the building that soars up around you, like entering through the pin of a needle. You walk inside into this giant wide open space. Since the building has no window, you are led up to the top level in this spiral. Every one of the six different floors has a unique shape. Walking through the galleries, you almost feel like the art is closing in on you as you reach the top, where suddenly you step into this sun-drenched gallery. The rooftop is made with glass, so sunlight casts itself down into the gallery during the day.

Dining in Polanco

To end your evening in Polanco, you need to book yourself an incredible meal. Now don’t get me wrong, there are plenty of fine dining restaurants in Polanco that will be a real splurge, but you can also opt for something much more affordable if you want. You don’t need to splash out. But if you’re looking for a once-in-a-lifetime meal, this is the place to have it!

Pujol $$$$

Pujol is by far the most popular restaurant, not just in Polanco but in all of Mexico City. In 2021 it moved up to #9 on the list of the World’s Best Restaurants! Chef Enrique Olvera created Pujol in 2000 and almost right away wowed the culinary world. His aim was to showcase Mexican cusine and the country’s rich history. Reservations are tough to get, so try to plan your visit about three-four months in advance.

Pujol History

Today chef Jesús Durón has taken over for Olvera but has continued to refine the incredible flavours and come up with new culinary adventures. The menu’s aim was to take traditional dishes and transform them into the modern era. The most famous of their dishes are their Mole Madre and Mole Nuevo. ‘Mole’ comes from the Nahuatl word ‘mōlli’ meaning “sauce,” and has traditionally been used in Mexican cuisine for centuries. Pujol’s mole features a dark “mother mole” which has been aged for around 2,500 days. The mother mole is served within a ring of the “new mole” with a side of tortillas you use to taste the mole all on its own to really appreciate and experience the flavour. The traditional tasting menu costs around $2000 MXN ($100 USD) without alcohol.

Taco Omakase Meal

When we visited Pujol, we booked a seat for their taco-omakase experience. Omakase means “chef’s favourites” in Japanese and features a rotating 10-course featuring truly experimental takes on the conventional idea of a taco. The entire meal takes place inside their incredible glass dining room, which looks out to their natural gardens, where they grow many of the ingredients for the menu. The whole course was over 3-hours long and was more of an experience than a meal. Taco Omakase Menu costs around $3000 MXN per person ($147 USD) and includes alcohol pairings.

Quintonil $$$$

If you don’t manage to get reservations at Pujol, another incredible dining experience can be found at Quintonil. Quintonil was opened by Chef Jorge Vallejo, who started off at Pujol, where he made a name for himself. Quintonil takes the concept of showcasing Mexican flavours and turns the dishes on their head. Most of the ingredients on the menu are harvested literally 30 meters from where you’re sitting. They do offer a tasting menu with over 10-courses. This will cost you $3,280 MXN ($160 US) or with the alcohol pairing $5,235 MXN ($255). But if this is too expensive, you can also order from their a-la-carte menu with dishes ranging from $200-$500 pesos.

El Bajío $

If you’re still looking to enjoy a traditional Mexican meal but can’t spend upwards of $100 per person, El Bajío is a fantastic choice. El Bajío was founded in 1972 by Raúl Ramírez Degollado and Alfonso Hurtado Morellón who brought traditional Mexican cuisine from Veracruz to Mexico City. They have a huge patio and a large, airy interior decorated with traditional Mexican arts and crafts. The portions are enormous, and the atmosphere feels like dining inside a big family kitchen. Dishes here cost around $165 MXN ($9 USD). And there is even a surprisingly exciting kid menu to choose from, making it such a great place to come as a family.

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Autocinema Coyote

While many people will love to spend an evening in Polanco at chic bars like Gin Gin and Limantour Polanco, I prefer something a little different. In the north end of Polanco, behind a rather unseemly looking fence, is one of the coolest retro gems of the city; the Autocinema Coyote. Since 2011, the Autocinema Coyote has been the only drive-in movie theatre in Mexico City. But in addition to cars, there is also a little outdoor seating area where visitors without vehicles can spread out and enjoy a movie under the stars and enjoy a classic drive-in experience.

Autocinema Coyote plays everything from new releases to cult classics well into the evening. Sometimes when they show the old classics, people will show up in costumes and even perform along with the show! It’s such a great atmosphere. Check their website for the latest showings and which times are playing the films with English Audio, otherwise it’s usually dubbed in Spanish.

I hope you enjoyed this walking tour of the upscale streets of Polanco, Mexico City’s most exclusive neighbourhood. Let me know in the comments where your favourite stop was. Or if you have any particular stops you always make in this part of town!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

References

El Universal | LA Times

The post Self Guided Walking Tour of the Upscale Streets of Polanco: The City’s Most Exclusive Neighborhood first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Despite our rather stressful introduction to the park, in getting lost we uncovered so many different parts of the park I had never seen mentioned in other guides! I made it a point to return the next morning! I arrived early in the day, set out to explore every inch of Chapultepec Park. What I discovered was truly one of the most spectacular public parks I had ever seen. Not only is Chapultepec Park unsurpassed in terms of beauty, but it also has a long history that dates back to the 10th century. The park is heralded for its bio-diversity, lush gardens, and home to some of Mexico City’s most iconic landmarks. It is no surprise to learn it won the gold award from the World Urban Parks Association as one of the most beautiful parks in the world!

But it’s not just a tourist destination either; it’s also full of life. Locals come here to cool themselves under the forest canopy and snack on incredible street food. If you’re looking to escape city life and immerse yourself in nature, Chapultepec Park is the place to be!

Guide to Chapultepec Park

1. What to Know Before you Arrive
2. Hours & Access
3. The History of Chapultepec Park
4. Map of Walking Tour
5. Puerta de Leones
6. Monument to the Ninos Heroes
7. Petrogrifo de Moctezuma
8. Ahuehuete "El Sargento"
9. Memorial Squadron 201
10. Cincalco Cavern
11. Audiorama
12. Chapultepec Castle Hill
13. Museo del Caracol
14. Chapultepec Castle
15. Street Food
16. El Lago de Chapultepec
    • The Casa del Lago
17. Librería Porrúa
18. Jardín Botánico del Bosque de Chapultepec
19. Museo Nacional de Antropología
    • Museo de Arte Moderno
20. Zoológico de Chapultepec
21. La Casa de la Bici Bosque de Chapultepec
22. Fuente del Quijote
23. Poets' Causeway
24. Carrusel De Chapultepec
25. Fuente de las Ranas
26. Monumental Fuente de Nezahualcóyotlht

What to Know Before you Arrive

Bosque Chapultapec or Chapultapec Park is enormous. It is twice the size of Central Park, which many people think of as one of the largest parks in the world! So having a guide to follow or knowing what you want to see when you’re there is key. Bosque Chapultapec or Chapultapec Park is actually divided into three sections or “Seccións.” This guide will explore the First section, which is both the oldest portion of the park and contains the most important landmarks.

Key Tips

• As mentioned above, the park is HUGE. Give yourself the entire day if you’re planning on exploring all of the first section.
• Arrive early in the morning, not only to give yourself lots of time to visit but also to avoid the crowds which peak in the afternoon.
• Most of the signage in the park is all in Spanish. Use this guide to help you get the context to understand what you’re seeing. Download the Google Translate app and the Spanish language pack to be able to translte signage with your camera.
• There are no restaurants located inside the park. The only place to eat is at street food stalls, which primarily surround the lake. You can also grab a bite to eat at the Anthropology or Modern Art Museum.
• Chapultepec has a strict no food or beverage policy. That means you can’t even bring in food to eat later in the park. So if you plan on picning, be sure to eat before you enter the castle. They will often search your bags so don’t think you can just hide it.
• Various Museums offer free entry on Sundays. Be sure to check their websites in advance if you’re looking to save some money on entry fees.
• Weekends are by far the busiest time to visit the park. But that is also when most street vendors are out, and the park’s personality shines. Just plan accordingly.

Hours & Access

The park is open from 5 a.m. to 7 p.m Tuesday – Sunday. The First Section of Chapultepec Park is closed on Mondays for maintenance.

To arrive at the proper (and most impressive) entrance to Chapultepec Park, direct your Uber to drop you off in front of the Estela de Luz monument. If you prefer to take the Metro you can take it to Chapultepec Station. From the station’s exit, head north up to Lion’s gate entrance.

The History of Chapultepec Park

Chapultepec Park is situated around Chapultepec Hill, the sacred heart of the city. The Toltecs named the hill “Chapultepec” around the 12 century. The word “Chapultepec” means at the grasshopper hill in the native Nahuatl language of the Toltecs. There is some disagreement among historians whether the name comes from the plethora of grasshoppers that lived in the area or if it was due to the shape of the hill looking like the silhouette of a grasshopper.

At the top of the hill, the Toltecs placed their sacred altar. We know this as there have been remains of this alter excavated at the hill’s summit. The hillside served as a defensive advantage, as it stood looking out of the shores of Lake Texcoco. Despite this advantage, it wouldn’t be along before the Toltecs were overcome.

When the Aztecs conquered the city, they continued to use the hill as a spiritual place. They saw it as a place of power, and it was here that they buried the ashes of their rulers. For this reason, when visiting the park and the palace, we should act very respectfully. Remember you are walking over what was an Aztec graveyard. The various rulers of Mexico City would carve their images onto the eastern side of Chapultepec hill. Thinking this would preserve their memories in stone forever.

The area around the Chapultepec hill was plentiful with freshwater. Monarch Nezahualcoyotl utilized this access to build the first aqueduct that helped direct this freshwater into the city. Nezahualcoyotl loved nature and felt at peace here. He was the first to build a summer palace in the area in 1428. Here he could escape the busy city. Like today, the rich and powerful love escaping countryside mansions.

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Moctezuma II

By the 15th century, the forest was primarily used as a retreat for various Aztec rulers. We have Moctezuma II to thank for so many of the amazing aspects of this park that still exist today. The plentiful trees, plants and waterways around the park were all installed under his watchful eye. Many of the original cypress trees can still be seen today. These are also called “ahuehuete” trees and they mark the ancient outlines of the park. Moctezuma was also the first to build a zoo and arboretum just near the foot of the hill.

One of the most unique aspects of the park you can still visit today is Moctezuma’s Baths. The waters from the aqueducts were channelled into these reservoirs where locals could bathe. Aztecs were a very clean society, with most people bathing at least once a day! There were also several “temazcales” on-site. There were pre-Hispanic saunas and used for ritual cleansing.

The Spanish Invasion

Sadly this period of peace for the Aztecs couldn’t last forever. Here in the forest, the Aztec’s took their last stand against the Spanish in 1521. It was the last stand the Aztec had to save themselves from the eventual conquest. After the land was stolen by the Spanish, Chapultepec Hill and the land around it was given by Cortez over to the Franciscans. The religious order built a temple on the hill. Their attempt to convert the locals over to Christianity by appropriating the Aztec holy site. During this time, the rocks where the Aztec rulers carved their image were destroyed by the Franscian’s. But one stone managed to survive. It depicts Montezuma II’s feathered headdress carrying an omechicahuaztli (a sceptre for rain rituals) in his hand.

Developement of Chapultapec Castle

Chapultepec remained in the hands of the Franciscans for another few hundred years. But in 1785, the church was demolished to make room for a residence for the colonial rulers. This would become Chapultepec Castle. The forest around the castle was to be used as a hunting ground and place for recreation for the upper classes. It was abruptly walled off from the general public. This was such a loss for the people as the sanctuary has been such a meaningful place for hundreds of years.

Even after the Mexican War of Independence, the castle was used as the official residence for the head of state. But happily, the park was opened to the public once more. During the Mexican-American War of 1846, Chapultepec Castle was used as a military academy. It was also used as a political prison. In 1847 it would be the site of another great battle between the Mexican and U.S. troops. During the Second Mexican Empire, the palace transferred hands once. It was given over to the new governor of the city, Maximilian of Habsburg. He transformed it into a truly impressive imperial palace.

Porfirio Díaz Era

Under the rule of the Porfiriato government, the city began to undergo a huge transformation. Porfirio Díaz was obsessed with the idea of turning Mexico City into a European paradise. One of the aspects of his plan involved overhauling the landscape design of the city. He employed José Yves Limantour, Secretary of the Treasury, to revamp the forests around Chapultepec Castle. They installed paved avenues and roads, plazas, fountains, auditoriums and monuments. It was also during this time that large artificial lakes were built.

20th Century

The castle remained in the hands of the government, serving as the presidential residence until 1940. Los Pinos was built at the southwest edge of the park. This new “White House-inspired” neo-classical structure would serve as the new presidential residence and office. Chapultepec Castle was converted into a museum housing relics of the Maximilian era. As well as pieces of history from Mexico’s struggle for independence.

In the 1960s, the park saw its most tremendous modern expansion and construction. The park’s second section was created, and the Pantheon of Dolores was built. The large cemetery a final resting place for the illustrious dead of Mexico’s past. Various modern museums were commissioned. These institutions were a place to show to the locals and the world the cultural heritage of Mexico City. This included the National Museum of Anthropology, the National Gallery of History, the Caracol Museum, and the National Auditorium. There are nine different museums in total located inside the walls of Chapultepec Park.

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Creation of the 3rd Section

The third and final section of the park was created in 1974. The area is primarily a dense forest, that has been declared a Protected Natural Area. In order to combat the growing levels of air pollution, the government developed these protected zones to plant new trees which filter the air. Today, Chapultapec is known as one of the sets of “lungs” which help Mexico City breathe by replenishing oxygen to the city. This part of the park is also a refuge for migratory birds. During the winter, hidden in the trees are birds from Canada the U.S., feeling the cold. But there is also plenty of local wildlife like Mexico’s Cooper hawk, Harris’s hawk, wild ducks, and Vireos, Warblers and Kingfishers.

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Map of Walking Tour

Puerta de Leones

The intricately patterned black iron gates welcome you into Chapultepec Park. But guarding the entrance on either side are these two gigantic lions. This is the great Puerta de Leones or Lion’s Gate of Chapultepec Park. The colossal bronze beasts stand atop granite pedestals, their heads pointing out towards the Paseo de la Reforma. Their eyes keenly open, as if on the lookout for any incoming enemies.

The sculptures were created by French artist Garden and installed here in 1921. They have been greeting friendly visitors ever since. During the big Mexican holidays like Día de Muertos, this gate is often cheerfully decorated with beautiful paper flowers.

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Monument to the Ninos Heroes

Walking through the gates, continue down Avenue Juventud Heroica. The Avenue crosses over the busy Centro Bicentenario highway that you can hear roaring underfoot. At the end of the overpass, you can see the towering columns of the Monument to the Ninos Heroes. As mentioned earlier, Chapultapec Park was the site of the great Mexican American battle of 1847. After being overtaken by the U.S. Army, various cadets who had been defending the palace fled to the inner walls of the castle. Cornered with nowhere to go, six Mexican cadets jumped onto the cliff below. They would rather have died by their own will than be captured or killed by the enemy. Today each one of these six men are honoured within this incredible monument.

The enormous structure was designed by architect Enrique Aragón and sculptor Ernesto Tamariz. Each of the towering six columns features a niche at the base of the pillar. Inside is an urn that contains their ashes. The white columns are capped with the image of the Mexican golden eagle, whose wings reach towards the sky. While the cadets the eagle depicts their divine flight into heaven.

In the centre of the six columns is a large sculpture called the “Altar a la Patria” or Altar to the Homeland. The sculpture depicts a Mexican woman holding the lifeless body of a soldier in one arm. Beside her other arm stands a soldier. He stands tall, seemingly guarding her and the homeland. In honour of those who died guarding her before him.

Petrogrifo de Moctezuma

You’ll find a series of pathways that swirl around the park just beyond the main entrance. Make your way to the enclosure that surrounds the base of the hill. Beyond the fence is a seemingly innocuous rock. This is the Petrogrifo de Moctezuma. These petroglyphs set into the hill’s eastern slope have a series of carvings that you can make out as you look closer. These are the last remaining carvings from the pre-Hispanic rulers. In the top right, you can see the xiuhhuitzolli of Moctezuma II. The xiuhhuitzolli is the turquoise headdress worn by Aztec Mexican royals. The headdress is usually covered in bright blueish-green feathers to symbolize the god Huitzilopochtli. Huitzilopochtli was the god of the sun and the god war. His named means “hummingbird,” which is why the colourful feathers are used in his image.

Ahuehuete “El Sargento”

Continuing around the edge of the hillside, walk along the pathways surrounding the hill. Around the corner is a giant stone memorial, but blocking your initial view of the memorial is a hulking tree trunk. Do not just walk by but take a moment to study the dried-out piece of wood. This is one of the famed Ahuehuete (cypress) trees found inside the park. But this one is extra special. It is called “El Sargento,” as it was planted by Nezahualcoyotl in 1460 on the orders of emperor Moctezuma.

The tree managed to survive for over 500 years, growing up to 40 meters in height. But sadly, it died in 1969. Although these trees are able to live for generations the lack of freshwater, as the ground dried up due to pollution, brought an end to this great tree. A devastating blow to the people of Mexico City. The city created a monument out of the trunk, to preserve what remained for generations to come. It is still a very sacred space for visitors today. And also a warning about pollution and the destruction it can bring.

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Memorial Squadron 201

The enormous stone memorial behind the tree is dedicated to the Mexican 201st Fighter Squadron. This aerial army was initially formed when Mexico came to the aid of the Allies during World War II. During their initial training in Texas, they were nicknamed the “Aztec Eagles,” a name they wore with pride. Despite the historical conflict between Mexico and the USA, they managed to come together in this monumental moment in time. Together, they were able to defeat Japanese troops invading the Philippines. Their Squadron was given credit for keeping 30,000 Japanese troops out of action and destroying enemy-held buildings, vehicles, anti-aircraft guns, and the all-important ammunition depots. The memorial was built to remember the fallen soldiers of the wars as well as the survivors of the military expedition to the Philippines.

Cincalco Cavern

To the left of the memorial is a little path that wraps around the back. Behind here is where you’ll find a little hidden zen garden called the Audiorama. But historically, this area has been one of the most sacred spaces in Mexico City for generations. During the pre-Hispanic period, this place was the entrance to the Cincalco Cavern. The Aztecs believed that these caves were portals between the living and the dead. It was here, many believed, that Tláloc, the god of water, lived.

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In 1162, Huémac, the last Toltec governor, committed suicide after his people were defeated and his city fell. He felt he had failed them and it was here he wished to pass on, submit himself to the will of the gods. Perhaps with his sacrifice, his people would be spared. In modern times, the cave has been sealed off for security reasons. But you can still see the arched entrance that once led inside the hill. The garden is surrounded by an array of wild plants, fruit trees, small rose bushes, and calla lilies.

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Audiorama

In the 1970s, the city decided to revamp the space as a modernized “sacred space” for the residents. It was designed as an outdoor library to read. A series of colourful benches spread out throughout the enclosure provided comfort under the trees. But to enhance the experience, music is pipped into the forest throughout the day through a series of little hidden speakers.

There are different types of music played on different days of the week. On Tuesdays, you get new age, traditional Mexican rhythms on Wednesdays, melodies from Spain, Greece or Brazil on Thursdays, jazz on Fridays, chill out for Saturdays and classical music on Sundays. The Audiorama is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 am to 4 pm. Please respect the silence requested upon entering this part of the park as this is a place for rest and relaxation.

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Chapultepec Castle Hill

Head back the way you came and make your way to the ramp leading to Chapultapec Castle.

Hours and Admission

You need to buy your admission tickets at the booth at the bottom of the hill. Be sure to do this BEFORE you head up the ramp, which leads to the castle. There is nowhere at the top of the hill to buy tickets. The walk is fairly long and steep, and on a hot day, it would be torturous to have to head all the way back down. We saw dozens of people that had this problem and their dejected faces were so sad. So be sure you don’t make this same mistake. The line for the tickets moves very quickly but if you plan on visiting at the absolute peak of the season you should arrive early to beat the crowds.

Hours: 9 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Sunday. Closed on Mondays.
Admission: 85 pesos (US$4) per person. Tickets are free for children under 13 and seniors over 60 years old. Teachers and students with valid credentials and people with disabilities also can get in free.
Be sure to bring some cash as often the machines are often down and tickets are cash only.

After purchasing your ticket, you need to climb the winding hill that encircles the palace. While the pathway is mostly smooth, for anyone with mobility issues, the incline can be tiring. The walk is especially difficult due to the high elevation in Mexico City. It can be slightly harder to catch your breath. Take it slow; there’s no need to rush. In fact, the walk up the hill provides some incredible views across the park and the city. Make sure you drink plenty of water. Even on what might feel like a cooler day, you still can get dehydrated just from the elevation.

Museo del Caracol

Near the top of the ramp, before arriving at the Castle, you’ll approach the Museo del Caracol. A ‘Caracol’ is a snail, as the museum’s exterior is designed to replicate the shape of a sea snail. Inside, to view the exhibitions within, you descend down a spiral staircase, also mirroring the swirl of a snail’s shell. The windows that line the edge of the staircase are filled with dioramas. Each one tells a story relating to the history of Mexico City. From the end of the viceroyalty to the Constitution of 1917.

As the admission is only 80 pesos (US$4), I think it’s well worth a quick look through. There is something about dioramas that really helps bring the country’s history alive. Even if you can’t understand the narration, the scenes are so expressive that you can really get a sense of what’s happening. I think some people might think the museum is a bit cheap and cheesy but I really enjoy all those dollhouse-like detailed scenes.

Hours: 9 am to 4 pm Tuesday to Sunday
Admission: $80 pesos per person. Tickets are free for children under 13 and seniors over 60 years old. Teachers and students with valid credentials and people with disabilities also can get in free.

Chapultepec Castle

The castle itself is divided into two sections; the Museum of Anthropology on the left side and the Palace (or Alcazar) interiors on the right. The Museum of Anthropology is housed inside the former Military College. The collection is a wonderful way to physically see the history of Mexico City, from the time of the conquest until the 20th century, come alive in front of you. Clothing, paintings, objects and elements of everyday life are all on display. My favourite part of this section of the castle has to be their collection of murals. The expressive Mexican murals bring historical events into three dimensions despite being painted on a two-dimensional surface.

The Alcázar portion of the building is where you’ll find various rooms inside the palace still decored as they could have been in the 19th century. During this period the castle was occupied by emperors Maximiliano and Carlota and thereafter President Porfirio Díaz and his wife Carmen Romero Rubio. It is incredible to see how the spaces change as the hands of ownership change. For a complete guide of the Castle Museum check out our full tour here.

Street Food

After finishing up at the castle, walk back the hill towards Avenue H. Colegio Militar. This road will weave its way through the forest towards the best lookout point across Chapultepec Lake. This avenue is absolutely packed with street vendors! Although there is a larger “food court” beside the lake, I would avoid this area. Perhaps since they have more permanent booths, the food can be left inside and therefore isn’t of the highest quality. But the food vendors that flank the roadways are really delicious. So stick with them! These might not be as filling as the meals on offer in the food court area, but you’re better off with a safe bet.

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Guide to Street Snacks

Below are a few of my favourite street snacks so you can keep your eyes out for these reliably delicious traditional treats.

• Chicharron: deep-fried pigskin doused in chilli sauce and freshly squeezed lime juice. Duritos: Duritos (not to be mixed up with Doritos) are a wheat-based pinwheel-shaped snack topped with hot sauce and lime.
• Dorilocos: If you’re looking for something more like a meal, find your way to the Dorilocos vendor. This dish is made by taking a bag of Doritos and slicing it down the long edge, so it opens like a bowl. Then they top it with Mexican radish, shredded cucumber and carrot and Japanese peanuts. Then, of course, it’s topped with lime juice and hot sauce on top. 
• Papas: freshly made potato chips served with hot sauce and lime.

• Paletas: frozen fruit bars made with fresh and natural ingredients. They are made with either milk or fruit juice base. My favourite has got to the mango and chilli!
• Tamarind Candies: Look for brands like Tama-Roco, Pulparindo or Pelón Pelo Rico. There is also Salsaghetti which is watermelon candy in the shape of spaghetti noodles covered with tamarind sauce. 
• La Molienda: coconut candy bar in the colour of the Mexican flag.
• Vero Mango: mango-flavoured candy covered in chile powder.
• Slaps Lollipop: Mexican fruit roll-ups that taste just like a jolly rancher!
• Mazapanes de la Rosa: A peanut-based sweet
• Pepitoria: crunchie wafers filled with honey or caramel, and decorated with pumpkin seeds.

El Lago de Chapultepec

After all those snacks, a great way to burn off some calories is with a pedal around El Lago de Chapultepec. This man-made lake is one of the most picturesque places to take a little blue paddle boat and take in the scenery. The views from the middle of the lake are fantastic and even look out at the Colonia Polanco. The boats cost 60 pesos/hour (around the U.S. $3). Normally, such a touristy activity would price gouge visitors but not here in the park. The locals enjoy a ride as much as the tourists, so prices are kept low to ensure everyone can enjoy a day out!

The Casa del Lago

While paddling on the Lake, you have a fantastic view of the Casa del Lago, the Chapultapec Lake House. The house was built in the 1900s as President Porfirio Diaz‘s summer mansion. Today it serves as the UNAM (Mexico’s National Autonomous University) Chapultapec cultural center.

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Librería Porrúa

If you don’t feel like grabbing a bite to eat from the street vendors, you can head up to the Librería Porrúa. This charming bookstore library is located just on the edge of Chapultepec Park. In addition to a wonderful selection of books, there is a coffee shop inside. You’ll find here a super delicious selection of coffee, snacks, paninis, and more. Plus if it’s a really hot day, its a lovely spot to come and cool off.

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Jardín Botánico del Bosque de Chapultepec

From here, lets pop into the Jardín Botánico del Bosque de Chapultepec. While the roped off garden beds and greenhouse might feel modern, these nurseys have been here since the days of Moctezuma. When the Spanish first arrived in Mexico they were amazed by these royal gardens they saw. So much so that they would write home about the incredible plants they found.

The Aztecs had some of the most diverse and exotic gardens. They were filled with medicinal plants for healing wounds. Herbs for cooking as well as fragrant flowers just there for their beauty.

The Botanical gardens we find here today were inaugurated in 2006 over a 5-hectare protected area. Covering the land area are over 400 different plants and trees. The garden is divided into different themes based on the different kind of plants. There are the pollinators, the edible plants, the succulents and the wetland plants. Plus 14 different species of wild dahlias, cacti and agave.

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Orquideario Bosque de Chapultepec

Towards the back of the Botanical Garden you’ll find the glimmering stained glass rooftop that leads you inside the Orquideario Bosque de Chapultepec. This 500-square-meter greenhouse was built in the 1940s and contains stunning examples of Mexican art deco design. The huge barrel domed ceiling runs the entire length of the greenhouse.

The vibrant Aztec inspired stained glass design casting beautiful rainbows of light down on the flower and ferms below. Inside the humid glasshouse, you can find their precious collection of orchid. s is maintained.

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Botanical Garden Open: 9 am to 6 pm Tuesday to Sunday | Orchid Garden Open: 9 am to 3 pm

Museo Nacional de Antropología

For the rest of the afternoon, there are a few different museums that you can explore. If you’ve never been to Mexico, let alone Mexico City before, the Museo Nacional de Antropología is a wonderful place to learn more about the country’s history. The museum contains significant archaeological and anthropological artifacts from Mexico’s pre-Columbian heritage. It is considered a national treasure and a symbol of Mexico’s identity.

Stone of the Sun

One of the most significant pieces of the collection is the Stone of the Sun or the Aztec calendar stone. This sizeable circular stone carving weighs 24,590 kg and is over 141 inches wide! It dates back to approximate the beginning of the 16th century. The Stone of the Sun was so precious to the people of Tenochtitlan that after the Spanish invaded, they buried the stone under the Zocalo. In the hopes that hiding it there would keep it safe.

The Stone was only discovered in 1790 when repairs were required under the new Mexico City Cathedral. After the discovery, the church actually mounted the stone on the building’s exterior. There it remained for almost a hundred years. Perhaps as a way to convince unconverted Mexicans over to the Christianity. Finally, in 1885, it was moved to the new Archaeological Museum inside the El Chopo Musuem in Colonia Santa María la Ribera. It remained there until the opening of this museum.

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Architecture of Museo Nacional de Antropología

If you only see the design of the building from the front facade you might think the building is rather simple and austere. The white bricked facade is devoid of any decoration save for the central medallion featuring a stone carving of the eagle of Mexico City with a serpent in its mouth. But to see the real architectural treasure you need to head inside towards the back courtyard. The building was designed in 1964 by Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, Jorge Campuzano, and Rafael Mijares Alcérreca. The courtyard features a huge concrete umbrella supported by a single slender pillar (known as “el paraguas,” Spanish for “the umbrella”). Water pours down from the umbrella into the vast square pond below. It’s one of the most impressive structures I’ve ever seen and the sound of the rain falling is hypnostizing.

Open: 10 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Saturday, Closed Mondays
Admission: Permanent exhibition $85 pesos (US $4)
To use a video camera, you must get a permit and pay a fee of $45 pesos.

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Museo de Arte Moderno

Right beside the Botanical Gardens is the Museo de Arte Moderno. The Museum of Modern art contains the largest collections of Mexican art from the 20th century. The museum was built in 1963 under the guise of architect and designer Pedro Ramírez Vázquez and Rafael Mijares. Even without all the artwork, this museum is a wonder to explore.

It’s collection features work from José Chávez Morado, David Alfaro Siqueiros, José Clemente Orozco and Remedios Varo. But most famously, it owns a few precious paintings by Frida Kahlo. Frida Kahlo produced a relatively small oeuvre, and getting to see one of her paintings in real life is an exceptional experience. Her surrealist self-portrait ‘Las dos Fridas‘ is one of her most impactful pieces. This piece was painted shortly after her divorce from fellow Mexican artist Diego Rivera. It was a means for her to process the depression and loneliness she experience after the divorce.

Open: 11 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Saturday, Closed Mondays
Admission: $65 pesos (US $3)

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Zoológico de Chapultepec

If you’re travelling with children, instead of a museum, a visit to the Zoológico de Chapultepec is a great alternative. While adults might give it a miss (as there aren’t really any uniquely “Mexico-City” aspects to the zoo) it’s always a hit with kids. Plus, admission is free for everyone! This is a huge bonus since activities with kids can get really expensive. The only part of the zoo that requires an entry fee is the butterfly house (US$3.50). There are many classic zoo animals to see here. Everything from lions, rhinos, monkeys, tigers, and, most famously, their great Chinese Panda .

But if you’re going to visit, my best advice is to be sure to see the Xoloitzcuintle. The Xoloitzcuintle is a hairless dog native to Mexico. The name ‘Xoloitzcuintle‘ is from the Nahuatl languagee and is derived from the word ‘Xolotl’ who was the god of fire and lightning. ‘Itzcuīntli‘ was the Nahuatl word for “dog,” for it basically translates to “God’s dog.”

Open: 9 am to 4:30 pm Tuesday to Sunday
Admission is free

La Casa de la Bici Bosque de Chapultepec

If museums aren’t your thing, a wonderful way to explore the rest of the park is by bike. The park’s winding back routes and pathways are sprawling! To see it all, the best way is to hop on a bike. You can pick up a rental bike from the central Casa de la Bici in the southwest corner of the park. This place rents out bikes for 70 pesos per hour (the U.S. $3.30) or 100 pesos (the U.S. $4.80) for two hours. You are required to leave a valid photo I.D. with them to ensure you return with the bike. Don’t leave anything important like your passport, but a driver’s licence or even a health card will be OK. Most of the bikes have adorable white baskets on the front. Perfect for storing your treats or backpacks so you can bike around unimpeded.

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Fuente del Quijote

Whether you’re cruising around on the bike or just walking on foot, here are a few other stops you might want to make around the park. Just north of the bike rental house is the Fuente del Quijote. A ‘Fuente‘ is the Spanish word for fountain. The ‘Fountain of Don Quixote‘ dates back to 1921 and it is one of the most incredible fountains in the entire park. The rather small central fountain with four central mermaids is surrounded by four stone benches covered in handpainted tiles. Each of the hundreds of tiles features detailed images from the book Don Quixote de la Mancha by Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra. By looking at each one you could easily piece together the entire story.

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Restoration of the Fountain

Sadly, in 2015 the fountain was severely vandalized. Two statues of famous painter Salvador Dalí and Mexican master Diego Rivera were both stolen, never to be seen since. Many of the tiles were also taken or partially destroyed. The figures actually have a history of thievery. They were first made by Spanish sculptor Miguel Alessio Robles by stolen in 1974. So they were replaced by another set made by José María Fernández Urbina. Unfortunately, these would be sentenced to the same fate.

But thanks to public donations, the entire fountain is on its way to looking brand new once more! You can even make a donation yourself! A great way to support the park and preserve it for generations to come. Donations can be as little as 200 pesos (US$10), and it really goes a long way ! While you can’t entre the enclosure while restoring are underway, you can peek inside to get a sneak peek at once was. Plus you can even see the artists at work throughout the week, hard at work hand painting tiles.

Poets’ Causeway

Off to the east from the Fuente del Quijote is the Calzada De la Poetas or Poets’ Causeway. Along this stretch of the pathway are a series of busts of famous poets from the 19th and 20th centuries. The statues include Doña Inés de Asbaje y Ramírez de Santillana, better known as Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz OSH. Doña Inés was a Mexican writer, philosopher, composer and poet of the Baroque period. And to top it all off she was even a Hieronymite nun. Salvador Díaz Mirón was a Mexican poet known for his passionate, romantic style, influenced by Lord Byron and Victor Hugo. Manuel José Othón was a Mexican poet, playwright, and politician. One of his most famous works is Idilio Salvaje, considered one of the most representative poems of Mexico. You can read a part of this poem on the small plaque beside his bust.

Carrusel De Chapultepec

Through the forest, to the west of the park, is the hidden away Carrusel De Chapultepec. Although this is meant for kids, I’m a sucker for a beautiful carousel. And this one is no exception. The amazing double-decker Carrusel De Chapultepec is a relatively new addition to the park. It was moved here in 2018 from its original location in Alameda Central. But its history is much older. Before its life in Mexico City, the carousel was once in Chicago but first made in Venice! Look up along the ceiling and roof that encircles the carousel. There, you can see intricately painted vignettes featuring scenes from life in Venice. An automatic piano plays music as the carousel spins, with over 1,800 spotlights twinkling as it turns round and round.

Open: Tuesday to Sunday.
Admission: $18 pesos (less than US$1) to ride. Adults can sit in the wooden benches on the first level.

Fuente de las Ranas

At the intersection of Avenue H. Colegio Militar and Calz. Mahatma Gandhi is the Fuente de las Ranas. The Fuente de las Ranas or Fountain of the Frogs is an exact replica of a fountain of the same name in Seville. When Spanish lawyer Miguel Alessio Robles was named the Mexican minister in 1921, he ordered the fountain to be made. He wanted to bring to Mexico City a piece of his home country.

The fountain was first installed at the park entrance but has since been moved towards the back of the park. The fountain is covered in beautiful Sevillian tiles. Surrounding the outer edge is a series of eight rotund golden painted frogs. Their open mouths spraying water towards the bronze duck and tortoise who sit in the centre of the fountain. The duck sits atop the turquoise with its mouth pointing upwards, shooting water from its mouth into the air. It’s such a playful fountain and a wonderful addition to the park. It’s these little gems that make wandering the pathways so endearing.

Monumental Fuente de Nezahualcóyotlht

Opposite the Fuente de las Ranas is the entrance to best fountain of them all; the Monumental Fuente de Nezahualcóyotl. Nezahualcóyotl is a name we’ve heard before as his impact in the history book, as well as in Chapultepec park was immense! Nezahualcóyotl was the monarch of the city-state of Texcoco in ancient Mexico from 1429 to 1472. He was known as a great poet in addition to a fantastic scholar and wonderful architect. His name means the “fasting coyote,” as fasting was considered a form of sacrifice. Some monarchs would do to attempt to appease the gods and aid their people. If you look for one of the old Mexican 100 peso bill you can see his face. Along with his portrait is one of his most cherished poems. It goes;

I love the song of the mockingbird,
Bird of four hundred voices,
I love the colour of the jadestone,
And the intoxicating scent of flowers,
But more than all, I love my brother, man.

Nezahualcóyotl

Nezahualcóyotl’s Dam

The Monumental Fuente de Nezahualcóyotl is by far the largest of all the fountains in the park. The fountain begins to emerge from the edge of the forest, and covers 1,250 square meters. Flowing like a vein up to the central square and domineering statue at the end of the wall-like fountain. It was made by sculptor Luis Ortiz Monasterio in 1956. The shape of the fountain was inspired by Nezahualcóyotl’s Dam. Nezahualcóyotl was instructed by Moctezuma I to construct a dam over 16 km long. The dam was to be used to defend against the flood waters which plagued the ancient Tenochtitlan (Mexico city). Nezahualcóyotl was also responsible for the aqueducts in Chapultepec forest that supplied Tenochtitlan with safe drinking water. This work earned him the reputation of the best architect in the Americas.

Monasterio’s fountain-like dam was inspired by the pre-hispanic architectural styles of the 15th century. Entering this area, you are greeted by a fantastic carving of a giant coyote. The coyote has his mouth open wide, a menacing smile, with water gushing forth. Water also flows out of the hundreds of carved medallions along the top of the wall. Once one carved from black stone from Xaltocan.

Statue and Life Reliefs of Nezahualcóyotl

Along the facade of the fountain you’ll find eight large bas reliefs. Each one depicts a scene from the life of Nezahualcóyotl. The first relief shows Nezahualcóyotl’s birth, the death of his father, his battles for the territory, the arrival of water to Chapultepec and his death in 1472.

The sculpture in the centre of the square is of Nezahualcóyotl himself, standing nine meters tall. Watching over his beloved park forever. Behind him is a wall made of volcanic stones with three symbols emblazoned up the facade. Each of the symbols refers to the three tribes of indigenous peoples that inhabited the Valley of Mexico; the Texcoco, Tenochitlán and Tlacopan. It is a wonderful place to end the tour, to remember that this space was one a sacred site for the indigenous peoples and we are lucky to still be able to enjoy this green oasis today.

Chapultepec Park is truly a must-visit if you’re in Mexico City. It’s not only the perfect place to enjoy a peaceful day out, but also where you can learn a lot about Mexican culture and history. Make the effort to carve out the time to really appreciate the beauty of this sprawling natural sanctum.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Ultimate Guide to Chapultepec Park: Historical and Cultural Heart of Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Diego Rivera was a Mexican painter, muralist, and pioneer in the art of social realism. He is best known for his monumental frescoes depicting Mexican history from the conquest to the revolution. His work has been exhibited worldwide, housed in the most prestigious museums. But the best examples of Diego Rivera’s work can be found here in Mexico City. In public spaces as well as time-honoured museums. This guided tour takes you across the city, diving into unknown corners and popular tourist sites. So come with me on a walking tour in the footsteps of Diego Rivera.

Table Of Contents

1. About Diego Rivera
2. Start of the Tour: El Cardenal
3. Museo Mural Diego Rivera
4. Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central
5. Palacio de Bellas Artes
6. Mexican Secretaria of Public Education Headquarters
7. Former College of San Ildefonso
8. Mercado Presidente Abelardo L. Rodriguez
9. Antigua Academia de San Carlos
10. Palacio Nacional
11. Cárcamo de Dolores
12. Panteón de Dolores
13. Coyoacan and San Angel
14. Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
15. Plaza San Jacinto
16. Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
17. Casa Azul
18. Frida Kahlo Park
19. Museo Anahuacalli
20. Museo Dolores Olmedo

About Diego Rivera

Diego Rivera was born, along with his twin, in Guanajuato, Mexico, in 1886. Sadly, his twin brother died only two years after they were born. Even at such a young age, his twin’s loss significantly impacted Rivera. Perhaps this event created the storm of passion, artistry and creativity Rivera was known for. In fact, it was after his brother died that Diego began to paint. Perhaps as a means to deal with his grief.

Early Education & Artistic Career

Diego began art studies at the Academy of San Carlos in Mexico City at ten years old. The school was located in the heart of the city’s historic centre. The spark of creativity was ignited when he left his small town and studied in the big city. Diego was so talented that the school sent him to study in Europe. All of the greats were sent to Europe as it was seen as the centre of artistic creations.

Diego first studied in Spain, and after success there; he went to study in the pinnacle of art cities; Paris. Rivera loved Pars and lived there for years. He was inspired by the work of artists such as Pablo Picasso and Georges Braque. He immersed himself in the immerging style of Cubism and Paul Cézanne’s post-impressionism. From all these inspiring artists, Diego began to incorporate bolder colours, simpler forms and even abstract elements into his painting. This new style of painting demanded the viewer’s attention. Some paintings scream; they do not whisper. And Diego wanted his art to cry out.

Diego’s Love Life

It was in Paris where Diego met his first wife, Angelina Beloff. A fellow artist from Russia. Despite his atypically handsome appearance, Diego was a lothario. Always with a woman wed and a different one in his bed. During his marriage to Beloff, he was also in a relationship with Maria Vorobieff-Stebelska. Maria would give birth to Marika, Rivera’s first daughter.

Rivera divorced Beloff when he moved back to Mexico City in 1922. Soon after arriving back in Mexico, he met and married Guadalupe Marín. The new couple had two daughters together, named Ruth and Guadalupe.

Diego and Frida

But their relationship also didn’t last, as he was already having another affair with young Frida Kahlo. He divorced Guadalupe Marin in 1929 and married Frida a few months later. He was 44 years old, while she was just 22. Frida and Diego were like fire on fire. Both with huge personalities and huge tempers. But their tumultuous relationship fueled their art. They were both unfaithful during different parts of their marriage. But even these extramarital companions couldn’t soothe the wounds they caused each other. They eventually divorced in 1939. Only after Frida’s death in 1955 did Rivera marry again. This time to his long-time agent, Emma Hurtado.

Mexican Muralism

Diego is best known for his work in the Mexican Muralism movement. When he returned to Mexico City, it was under the influence of the Mexican ambassador to France, Alberto J. Pani. The new Mexican Minister of Education, José Vasconcelos, was undertaking a new program of government-sponsored Mexican murals. These murals would be installed all over cities across the country. It was the government’s attempt to reunify the country post-Mexican revolution. The murals were meant to promote political ideas, depict real Mexican society (the good and the bad) and reflect views of the social revolution. To help those who could not read or attend school learn their history.

Rivera’s Unique Style

The three artists who undertook this project were called “the big three” or “The Three Greats.” The group was composed of Diego Rivera, José Clemente Orozco and David Alfaro Siqueiros. Through these murals, inspired by the national identity of Mexico, Rivera developed his iconic native style. This style was based on large, simplified figures and bold colours with an Aztec influence. It is this style that made Diego an icon and gave Mexico its own national art style.

Rivera became so popular that he was called to the United States to bring his style of mural painting to public buildings in the US. He spent a few years working in the US until a disagreement with the Rockerfellers on a large commission fueled his charge back to Mexico City. He continued working on some of the most important commissions of his life until his death on November 24, 1957. After this death, the government of Mexico declared Rivera’s works as “monumentos historicos” due to their importance in the country’s art history.

Start of the Tour: El Cardenal

To start your morning exploring Mexico City in the footsteps of Diego Rivera, you MUST book yourself brunch at El Cardenal. Inside the restaurant is a domineering mural, an artistic replica of one of the most famous Rivera murals. Sitting under a work of art is a great way to bask in its glory while enjoying some delicious Mexican cuisine.

El Cardenal is located inside the Hilton Reforma Hotel. But originally, the hotel which stood in this place was the Hotel del Prado. The Hotel del Prado was built in 1946 as one of the most luxurious hotels in the city. To cement the hotel’s status as one of the top-tier establishments, they hired Diego Rivera to paint a mural inside their new dining room. Sadly, almost nothing of the old hotel remains, as the Hotel del Prado collapsed after the infamous 1985 Mexico City earthquake. The only thing pulled from the wreckage was the mural, which miraculously could be salvaged. The original mural was moved into the nearby Museo Mural Diego Rivera. But this artistic reimagining was made for the new hotel dining room to keep the same spirit of the original.

Dining at El Cardenal

El Cardenal is a small chain of restaurants found all over the city. Their mantra is preserving national folk cuisine and putting it forward for guests to enjoy. Diego himself loved to eat. Although he wasn’t a great cook, food was a major part of his life. Diego and Frida would frequent the marketplace to draw inspiration. And, before leaving, I would fill up on ingredients to bring home. Famous, Diego would end each night with a late supper of hot chocolate and pan dulce. One of his favourite meals that Frida would make for him was a chicken mole. He loved traditional Mexican cuisine and was passionate about preserving it. And this restaurant is the perfect place to enjoy so many traditional dishes.

Museo Mural Diego Rivera

After breakfast, head over to the Museo Mural Diego Rivera. Despite being called a “museum,” the Museo Mural Diego Rivera is simply one large room designed to house the preserved mural from the Hotel del Prado. Thankfully admission is just over a dollar, so it’s more than worth a visit! After the devastating 1985 earthquake, the mural was saved (in pieces) and moved to the museum. Here, it was reassembled with care and restored to as close to its original condition as possible.

Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central

The mural is called Sueño de Una Tarde dominical en la Alameda Central (or Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central.) The exquisite mural spanned over 15 meters wide and was painted in 1947. The setting of the painting is, as mentioned in the title, Alameda Central. Alameda Central is a nearby park that has been a gathering place for locals for hundreds of years. The park was built in 1592 under the order of Viceroy Luis de Velasco II. It is now considered the oldest public park in the Americas. But long before it was a public city park, the area was an important site for the Aztec community. It was here where they held their enormous marketplace long before Spanish colonization.

Alameda Central

Alameda is from the Spanish word “álamo,” which means “grove of poplars.” The poplar trees that were once spread out through the park sadly do not remain today. Today, the trees have been replaced by ash, chestnut and willow trees. The group pictured in the park is filled with historical caricatures from over 400 years of Mexican history. They have all gathered together in this dream of Rivera’s. Although the dream sometimes feels more like a nightmare. Many historical paintings are told by the victors. Therefore they scrub away the sins of their past. But Diego, in all his works, never shied away from showing the grim realities of life. Violence and corruption permeated the history of Mexico.

Left Side of the Mural

The scenes from the painting can be read chronologically from left to right. You can get right up close to the mural in the museum to view these life-sized figures. Getting so close lets you feel the energy depicted within the scene. The piece seems to reverberate; gunshots fire, horses rear, police seize innocent indigenous children and the echoes of revolution swell in the background.

Hernan Cortez

One of the first figures of note to find is Hernan Cortez. You can see him off on edge to the left, dressed in his traditional military armour. His hands are posed in prayer as he is posed in front of flames that burn behind him. The flames of war he ignited. Beside him are victims of the Spanish Inquisition. Priests can be seen brutally punishing the victims, and a man all in black is in mid-swing of his cat of nine tails whip. One of the victims wears a sanbenito robe and conical hat. The iconic hat is now sometimes referred to as a “dunce cap.” The garments were worn by penitent heretics before they were put to the auto-da-fé. This “act of faith” was a ritual of public penance where the victims were killed by burning.

Below the large tree on the left, you can see two generals facing each other. The general on the left with the feathered admiral hat is Mexican president López de Santa Anna. Beside him is American General Scott. In 1846, during the presidency of López de Santa Anna, the Americans invaded Mexico City. And their encampment was actually located right inside Alameda Central.

Benito Juárez

Despite being farther into the background, the image of Benito Juárez, president of Mexico, is almost the largest face on the entire left side. He is seen holding a series of papers in his hands. Benito Juárez was President of Mexico from 1857 to 1872. During his time in office, Mexico suffered a second struggle for independence, a second defeat for the European powers, and a second reversal of the conquest. His greatest legacy was signing the Juárez Law, which declared all citizens equal before the law and restricted the privileges of the Catholic Church and the Mexican army.

Center Mural

The centre of the frame is the most vibrant and dreamlike part of the painting. It features bourgeois men and women in their Sunday best. In the background, the lush tropical park with a large fountain seems to glow with almost an ethereal neon hue. Above the scene in the centre is a huge hot air balloon flying above. The balloonist waves his Mexican flag, and the balloon is emblazoned with the Mexican Republic insignia.

La Calavera Catrina

The centre is dominated by a large, white skeletal figure called La Calavera Catrina. La Calavera Catrina (also called ‘the Dapper Skeleton’ or ‘elegant skull’) was originally conceived as a black and white cartoon. It was first drawn in 1910 by illustrator and lithographer José Guadalupe Posada. Rivera actually portrays Posada in this mural as well. He is seen to the right of La Calavera Catrina, holding her arm under his.

Originally, La Calavera Catrina was meant to be a caricature. She represented the elite of Mexico City during the reign of Porfirio Diaz. The caricature symbolizes a Mexican woman who has given up her Mexican culture and adopted high-society European aesthetics. Depicted with her huge Europe-styled hat and expensive feathers. And yet the woman is a skeleton. As if to say that no matter how you see yourself in this world, we are all the same underneath it all. Just bones. Over the years, La Catrina has become the symbol of death in Mexico. Her visage is a traditional part of the Day of the Dead celebrations.

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Rivera’s Calavera Catrina

In Diego’s mural, he has given the original sketch a whole body. While the face and large hat mirror the original drawing to a T, Diego has added some new elements. This includes a sumptuous feathered boa that hangs around her neck. But if you look closely, you’ll see the feathered boa still has a head and tail. This is meant to represent the Aztec serpent god Quetzalcóatl. Around her waist, La Calavera Catrina wears a belt with a gold buckle in the shape of an old Aztec symbol. This symbolizes La Calavera Catrina’s transition from caricature to a new form of revered god in the people’s eyes. She wears the body of the old god around her neck as she steps in to take its place.

Young Diego

In La Calavera, Catrina’s other hand, she holds the hand of a young Diego Rivera. Rivera has a playful little smile on his face. You can see a small toad poking out its head in his breast pocket, and in his other pocket, out comes a green snake. The umbrella he holds in his hand has the face of a bird, perhaps the Crested Caracara, often referred to as the “Mexican Eagle.” 

Frida Kahlo

Directly behind Diego stands Frida Kahlo. Frida’s hand lovingly rested on Diego’s shoulder. She holds a medallion with the yin-yang symbol in her opposite hand. Famously, Diego and Frida were polar opposites, yet they were drawn to each other despite these differences. In Chinese philosophy, the symbols depict the fundamental duality in humanity: female (“Yin”) and male (“Yang.”) Both Frida and Diego frequently painted images of each other in their artworks. In each of these paintings, there is always a coded message about the state of their relationship.

Throughout Diego’s career, Frida was always thought to be working in Diego’s shadow. She was known more as “the wife of Deigo Rivera” rather than an artist in her own right. And yet, here she is, the elder partner. Seemingly guiding Diego with her hand on his shoulder. Frida’s health was declining fast when Rivera painted this mural. Perhaps his small stature in the painting also reflects his helplessness in the face of her impending death.

Right Side of the Mural

To the right of the central group, we can see Porfirio Díaz looking down on them. Dressed in his military uniform and feathered hat, his decerning eyes gaze angrily at the group gathered. Díaz served seven terms as the President of Mexico. But this was better known as a dictatorship in the later years. Díaz started out as someone who aimed to turn the country around and free the people from the French. But once he came to power, his policies only benefited his circle of allies. The peasantry did not share in Mexico’s prosperity, leading to the Mexican Revolution of 1910. 

Below Díaz, on the ground, we see an indigenous family being forced to leave the park. They are being pushed away by a series of police officers. This is how Rivera uses transparency in his art. He aims to depict the racism that even the Mexican people have towards their indigenous community.

Francisco I. Madero

On the far right, up in a tree in front of a large Mexican flag, we can see Francisco I. Madero. He is smiling and waving his black hat up in the air. Madero was the head of the movement that overthrew Porfirio Díaz. Sadly, Madero was murdered during the Ten Tragic Days of 1913. His murderers, General Victoriano Huerta and Manuel Mondragón are also portrayed in the mural. Their menacing grey faces with prominent mustaches are hidden behind the crowd in the lower right corner. 

Also in the lower right corner are a group of women important to Rivera. This includes his ex-wife Guadalupe Marín, his daughters Guadalupe and Ruth Rivera Marín and his great friend Rosa Rolando Covarrubias. In the arms of his daughter Guadalupe, she holds her young son Juan Pablo. Perhaps by depicting his grandson in the photo, Diego wanted to cap the mural off with an image of hope. Hope for the future and for a better world for his grandson.

Alameda Central

After touring the museum, take a walk in the actual Alameda Central. Strolling through the gardens, monuments and pathways, you can get a sense of the vibrant atmosphere that must have inspired the setting for Rivera’s artwork. While the eastern portion of the park was for leisurely promenades, the park’s west end held a more nefarious purpose. This western section was originally built during the Mexican Inquisition. It was known as the “Burning Place.” Here, convicted witches and people accused of treason were publicly burned at the stake. While you don’t immediately think of Mexico as a place of witch trials, these inquisitions spread worldwide. When the inquisitions ended in 1770, the burning plaza was destroyed and transformed into an extension of the park.

One of the most important monuments is the “Hemiciclo de Benito Juárez.” This large semi-circle of eight towering marble columns with a central plinth is topped with a group of neoclassical statues. In the center is statesman Benito Juárez himself. Juárez was the 26th president of Mexico and, most importantly, the first president of Mexico of indigenous origin. On either side of him are two allegorical female statues representing the fatherland and law. On the pedestal he sits, you can see the inscription “Al benemerito Benito Juárez la Patria.” This translates into “To the meritorious Benito Juárez, the Homeland.”

Palacio de Bellas Artes

The Palacio de Bellas Artes, with its iconic sunset tiled roof, is one of the most iconic images of Mexico City. The Palacio de Bellas Artes hosts music, dance, theatre, opera and literature and is aptly named the “Cathedral of Art in Mexico.” The exterior of the building is primarily Neoclassical. But inside, you’ll discover a plethora of modern Art Deco and Art Nouveau stylings. Adding to the incredible decor of the interior is a series of murals wrapping around the walls. Each of these murals was commissioned by star painters of the Mexican Muralism movement. This includes; José Clemente Orozco, David Alfaro Siqueiros, Jorge González Camarena, Roberto Montenegro, Manuel Rodríguez Lozano and (most famously) Diego Rivera.

Man, Controller of the Universe

On the 3rd floor is where you can find Diego Rivera’s Man, Controller of the Universe. The mural is a recreation of the original mural once painted for New York City’s Rockefeller Center in 1933. When it was first thought up by Rivera, he named it Man at the Crossroads. But halfway through the project, the Rockefellers and Rivera disagreed about the subject matter depicted in the mural. The piece was meant to represent aspects of contemporary social and scientific culture. While the Rockefellers loved Rivera’s work, a damning article by the New York World-Telegram called the mural “anti-capitalist propaganda.”

Rivera and Lenin

Rivera was furious by the statement. As a means of revolt, he added a portrait of Lenin hidden within the mural. This portrait had not been approved in his original sketches. But Rivera hoped it wouldn’t draw any attention by hiding among other large portraits. Unfortunately, right before the unveiling, the Rockefellers took notice and demanded it is painted over. Rivera refused, and the entire piece was destroyed. This was a massive blow to Rivera’s ego. He was quoted as saying, “Rather than mutilate the conception [of the mural], I shall prefer the physical destruction of the conception in its entirety, but preserving, at least, its integrity.”

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After its destruction, Rivera recreated it in Mexico City on a blank wall in the Palacio Belles Artes. Rivera had asked his assistance to take pictures of the original mural before it was torn. This ensured he could recreate it perfectly here at the Palacio Belles Artes. When he was finished, he named this version Man, Controller of the Universe. A much more powerful title and reflective of his overall worldview.

Reading the Mural

The mural is split up into three different sections. In the center is a workman turning a giant piece of machinery. As if he is controlling the world around him with this machinery. Rivera was a staunch atheist, and his idea of man being the controller of his own destiny, not god, is evidently presented here. On the right side of the mural are depictions of capitalism, and on the left are depictions of communism. As mentioned in the original title, the universe appears at a crossroads. And we don’t know which way the man in the center will turn the wheel…

Central Mural

Emerging from the lower portion of the workman’s body is a giant fist. In the tight grasp of the fist, we can see an orb. Inside the orb are images of atoms and cells dividing in the act of chemical and biological generation. An ethereal blue light glows from around the edge of the orb. And tendrils start to emanate and spread out onto the rest of the image.
Radiating from behind the man is a series of propeller-like shapes. Inside each shape are images on both the micro and macro levels. Images as far away as the cosmos or as close up as bacteria are all seen through a microscope. Rivera is telling us that man can see it all. Beneath the mechanical structure, you’ll notice a small garden growing. This is meant to represent Mexico’s controlled growth of rich natural resources.

Left Side of the Mural

To the mural’s left side, we can see a small grouping of high society women playing cards and smoking. Hidden within the group of women, Rivera painted a portrait of John D. Rockefeller. Painting him among the clueless and cruel elite was revenge for Rockefeller destroying Rivera’s mural in New York.

Outside of their “social circle,” just beside the elite, are the faces of haggard workers looking on. Exhausted, angry expressions paint their faces. Above them, riots roars and police on horseback swing their batons, trying to silence protesters. This is a harsh contrast to the carefree gambling parties on the right. They are entirely unaware of the reality of the world around them inside their bubble.

Charles Darwin

In the foreground, a group of students of different ethnic backgrounds sit in lecture chairs. They appear to be watching the scene unfold through the large oculus in front of them. They are the hope for tomorrow, and only through learning about the past will they shape a better future. To the students’ left, we can see an x-ray machine controlled by a timid bearded man who represents Darwin. He is surrounded on the floor by different animals, which his studies revolve around.

Above the group stands a giant classical marble statue of the Greek god Jupiter. He looks furious, raising his hand to the sky. But a thunderbolt appears to strike his hand and break it from the rest of the statue. Around his neck is a large wooden cross. Rivera points out how Christianity and the Greek gods were false and would be destroyed by this new world. For Rivera, past myths have no influence on the future, where science and our understanding of the natural world around us reign supreme.

Above the entire scene is an assemblage of faceless soldiers and war machinery. Each soldier wears a terrifying gas mask on their face, obscuring their identity. Above the soldiers, the sky is filled with planes against a blood-red sky. A comment from Rivera on the violence created by capitalism.

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Right Side of the Mural

While the left side seems focused on war, the right side is a socialist utopia. On the right, between the propellers, we can see that famous image of Lenin. The very same one, the Rockefellers, were so up in arms about. In Lenin’s hands, he holds diverse workers around him. To the left of the group with Lenin is one of the brightest parts of the mural. Four women are shown in brilliant white athletic uniforms against a brilliant backdrop. A beautiful symbol of the power and hope Rivera had for women.

Along the top edge of the right mural are a large group of men and women celebrating the Russian May Day rally. Each wears a red cap or scarf and flies flags to symbolize communism. On the far right, we see another classical sculpture depicting a seated Caesar with his head cut off. Around Casesar’s waist, he clutches a bundle wrapped with a belt displaying the nazi symbol. Rivera viewed Caesar as a man of material goods. His beheading was a message from Rivera to rid ourselves of these material obsessions.

Leon Trotsky

At the feet of the headless statue is a man with round glasses and white hair. This is Leon Trotsky, a Ukrainian-Russian Marxist revolutionary, political theorist and politician. Trotsky and Rivera were once good friends. Trotsky even came to live in Mexico City after being expelled from the Soviet Union. Despite their best efforts to keep him safe, Trotsky was assassinated in his home in Coyoacán. Trotsky holds a giant red flag, supported by the industrial workers around him, representing Marxist theory. In the bottom left corner, one of the workers can be seen sitting casually on the statue’s head from above.

Stand back and take the entire mural in as one large scene. By doing this, you can appreciate how the left, the capitalist society, feels grim. On the right, more emotions are on the people’s faces, more rich colours. The people on the left are controlled by the government and religious institutions, and only the elite are free. But on the right, communist society is given control and freedom to create its own universe. Controlled by the people.

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Diego and Frida’s Funerals

Another big connection that the Palacio Belles Artes has to Diego is that it was the designated location for the funeral of his ex-wife Frida Kahlo. And would go on to be where he would be laid in state after his own death. Diego arranged for Frida’s body to be laid out in the Palacio de Bellas Artes. The government agreed, only if they would make it an entirely non-political event. Diego agreed. But unbeknownst to him, one of Frida’s students came to pay their respects and threw a huge communist flag over her casket. The government threatened to remove her body, but Diego refused to let them. He said if they tried, he would carry her dead body in his arm. And sit with her on the palace’s steps. They reluctantly agreed, and the flag remained on her casket, one last act of defiance.

Mexican Secretaria of Public Education Headquarters

Take a walk along the pedestrian-only Av Francisco I. Madero west towards the inner portion of the Historic Centre. When you reach the República de Brasil, head north, crossing westward once more along Luis González Obregón street. A few steps down the street, you’ll immediately see the Mexican Secretaria of Public Education Headquarters. The enormous building is spread over an entire city block. The facades that face out onto the different bounding streets are each done in a unique architectural style. Changing depending on the era in which it was created.

Diego Rivera Murals

Walk inside the iron gates from the República de Argentina to enter the open-air courtyard. You’ll usually see two armed guards on either side of the doors. Since this is still a government office, they take security seriously. Tell them you are there to visit the Diego Rivera murals. The guards will usually let you in if there aren’t any private events. But they might do a quick security check of any bags, so don’t let that surprise you. Inside the doors, you’ll enter the first of two large adjoining courtyards. Covering the courtyard’s walls are 235 panelled murals painted by none other than Diego Rivera. This was Rivera’s first large-scale painting project.

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Rivera and Vasconcelos

When Rivera returned to Mexico from his studies in Europe, it was to participate in a new mural program started. The program was the pet project of the new Secretary of Public Education, José Vasconcelos. Vasconcelos thought that art was a powerful tool for education. He went about commissioning large-scale mural projects across the city to bring art to the public. This project took place after the great Mexican revolution. Art was to be used to help communicate to the people that this new government would guarantee the new life promised by the revolution. And the first building Vasconcelos wanted Diego Rivera to work on was aptly the same one he worked in.

Like many of his contemporaries, Rivera believed that easel painting was considered too aristocratic. He and his contemporaries thought large, public murals could reach a larger audience. Art didn’t need to be hidden away inside stuffy museums or only appreciated by those with a critical eye. Art was for everyone.

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Education Mural Themes

Rivera started work on the murals in 1923, which took the painter five years to complete. Despite the overly Greek-influenced exterior, these murals focused powerfully on the Mexican identity. The murals followed themes of the Mexican Revolution and the glorification of Mexican labourers. Rivera’s themes are divided by the two courtyards. The larger courtyard focuses on Labour, and the smaller courtyard is dedicated to the Mexican Fiesta. Unlike the European influence that paints the colonial parts of the city, these murals focused on traditional Mexican heritage.

Fiesta Courtyard

The smaller Fiesta Courtyard is the first one you’ll enter. Here there are murals on the ground floor depicting various meaningful events in the Mexican calendar. You’ll see scenes from the Deer Dance, the Day of the Dead and the Corn Fiesta. There are also murals featuring the Meeting on May 1st, Good Friday and the Ribbon Dance.

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Walk up the stairs to the second level, where you can view one of the most important of Rivera’s murals. This massive painting, called The Arsenal, portrays a group of revolutionaries preparing for battle. In the center, you can see the image of a young woman in red wearing a communist star on her shoulder. The woman who posed for this painting was none other than Frida Kahlo. He painted her when she was just a student, long before the two would be married. Hovering above the murals, Rivera painted a sprawling red banner. The banners span the entire wall length and connect one scene to the other. The text written upon it is lyrics to various revolutionary songs called “corridos.”

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Labor Courtyard

The larger courtyard surrounds a beautiful green garden full of lush foliage. In this area, you can see scenes depicting Mexican labourers. Using looms, you’ll find images of mineworkers, sugar mill labourers, and craftspeople. Women set about dying fabric, smelters work in hot ovens, and busy farmers sell their goods in the marketplace.

On the second-floor staircase are a series of murals highlighting Mexico’s diverse landscape. From the bright blue coastlines to the lush green mountains. The murals on the second level are dedicated to what Rivera considered the four primary elements of painting. These are light, colours, man and geometry.

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Former College of San Ildefonso

Head back outside and make your way to the Former College of San Ildefonso, now the Museo De San Ildefonso. As you walk towards the building, take a moment to study the architecture of the building. The ancient blood-red volcanic stones are contrasted with a series of elaborately designed windows. The vibrant stained glass still gleams in the sunlight even to this day.

You walk through the double arcade outside Justo Sierra to enter the building. Stand outside the door for a minute to appreciate the elaborate Neo-Churrigueresque architecture. Neo-Churrigueresque is also known as Ultra Baroque. The style developed primarily in Spain but made its way to their colonies. Here it seemed to find a loving home in the arms of the Mexican people who love decoration. The style is primarily identifiable by extremely expressive and florid decorative details. While these elements bleed into the rest of the building, their main cluster surrounds the entrances and facades.

Mexican Muralist Movement

Inside the old college, it’s here that the Mexican Muralist movement was said to be invented. The building was originally constructed in 1588 as a Jesuit College. But when the Jesuits were expelled, the school became a residence for soldiers in 1767. Then, in the 1860s, the building was once more transformed into a school by president Benito Juárez. Juárez took schooling out of the hands of the clergy and into the hands of the government. Back then, the school saw over 700 students in and out of doors daily.

Government Mural Program

As the school was brimming with activity, the government thought this spot would be the perfect spot to feature a new government-sponsored mural. They commissioned a series of murals with themes relating to Mexico’s history and the politics of the post-Revolution era. Various artists contributed to the art spread across the walls of the college. The artists included; Ramón Alva de la Canal, Fermin Revueltas, Fernando Leal, José Clemente Orozco, David Alfaro Siqueiros, and Diego Rivera.

The building remained a functioning college until 1978, when it finally closed its door. It wasn’t until 1992 that it was reopened as a public museum and cultural center. Today there is always a series of rotating exhibitions on display. Many of them feature subjects relating to art and archeology in Mexico.

Creation Mural

Admission into the museum costs 50 pesos as there are rotating exhibitions on display inside. But if you just want a peek at Rivera’s work, you can sneak inside the Bolívar Amphitheater. This is found to the left of the entrance. You can access the theatre without admission, so long as there is no performance inside. Inside the Bolívar Amphitheater is one of Diego Rivera’s earliest murals, The Creation. This singular mural took Rivera over a year to complete, spanning over a thousand square feet!

The entire piece is a symbolic composition combining mythological and religious motifs. Along the top, in the center of the mural, is a blue astrological sphere with three hands emanating. This represents the holy trinity, stretching outwards towards the audience. In the middle are images of Adam and Eve, flanked on either side by the muses; Love, Hope, Faith, Prudence, Justice, Strength, Wisdom and Science.

Rivera’s Early Style

In this painting, Rivera’s art style’s youth can be studied. His iconic, more abstract technique seems to be missing. As if he hasn’t found his authentic voice just yet. The piece follows a similar style to that of Italian Renaissance fresco paintings. But even within this early work, his use of geometric structure, powerful facial expressions and strong composition are persistent.

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Mercado Presidente Abelardo L. Rodriguez

Less than ten minutes from the college, you can make your way to the Mercado Presidente Abelardo L. Rodriguez. This simple community marketplace is home to a series of murals painted by Diego Rivera’s students. While the work wasn’t by Diego himself, I love the idea of seeing his ideologies passed down to the next generation. And studying the works allows you to appreciate Rivera’s impact on future artists.

Market Murals

The market was built in 1934, and at the time, it was known for being very modern. It spread over 12,450 square metres and featured a daycare, youth center, library and large auditorium. It was more than just a market; it was a community centre. But most importantly, the architect hired Diego Rivera’s students to paint murals. These murals would span the entire interior wall and ceiling with themes portraying socialist ideologies popular at the time in Mexico City.

The young artists were passionate about reflecting the exploitation of workers, peasants and miners, especially by the elite of Mexico. The murals also depicted the fight against the Nazis, fascism, and racism. When the murals were initially painted, they were thought to be the city’s fourth most important public murals. And yet, over the years, they began to deteriorate. After the devastating 1985 earthquake, the marketplace began to fall into disrepair. The humidity started to peel the paint, and as the area was losing its prominent status, vandalism was also a problem. The mural was all but lost to the ages. But thanks to a group of concerned merchants, restorations began in 2008. This ensured these pieces of national history would be preserved. Although restorations are ongoing, you can walk around the marketplace today to see many iconic paintings.

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Antigua Academia de San Carlos

Walk south down Calle Loreto, east across República de Guatemala and down La Academie. Here you’ll find the Academia de San Carlos. This was the first art academy in Mexico and the “new world.” They opened their doors in 1785 and primarily taught academic neoclassicism to their students.

But over the years, the students began to rebel against the learnings of teachers from Europe. They longed for their own national artistic identity. This came to a head in 1911 when the student began to strike. This strike would last over two years. The students demanded to be able to paint outdoors. They wanted to be able to experiment more in their artwork and eventually shift towards a modern form of painting. Diego Rivera was the leader they needed and became the academy director in 1929. He was the perfect choice to appease the students. His entire career has been about telling the story of the Mexican people and bringing modern art to the masses.

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Palacio Nacional

To finish off our tour of Diego Rivera’s murals in the historic centre, we must pay a visit to the Palacio Nacional (or National Palace). This is his piece-de-resistance. The Palacio Nacional is an enormous museum with so much to see and do. Entrance to the National Palace is free, although there is usually a long lineup to get inside. You need to leave a piece of ID with the guards at the door. Since the Palace is still home to the offices of the Mexican President, security is critical. They need to control the number of people and keep track of exactly who is inside. The entrance to the National Palace can be found on Moneda Street.

History of the Palace

The site of the building was once Moctezuma II’s Grand Palace. His great residence was built here in 1521. When Cortés first visited the Palace, he described it as having a surprising array of riches. The walls were made of marble, and the facade contained a carved shield of Mexico’s iconic eagle. With the snake in its claws. The building was modern, with sanitary facilities, fountains, gardens, and bedrooms with rich rabbit fur and feathers tapestries. In addition to being a royal residence for the rulers of the Aztec city, it was also a meeting place for the older tribe members. Here disputes and discussions would take place to ensure the wealth and happiness of their people.

Hernan Cortés

Sadly, after the invasion by the Spanish, Hernan Cortés seized the residence from the Aztecs. Cortés was so enamoured by the palace that he used it as his home. Passing it down to his son in later years. The Palace’s devastating fire in 1692 destroyed much of the original structure. Many of the original stones that could be recovered were used in the reconstruction efforts. However, the new palace was styled in the Baroque fashion of the time. It seemed that over time, every generation added its own touch to the building. And now, it looks more like a patchwork quilt of architectural ages.

History of Mexico Mural

Walking inside the National Palace, follow the signs for the ‘History of Mexico Murals.’ These can be found within the great courtyard, surrounded by Baroque arches. Walk up to the main stairwell, where you’ll immediately be struck by this immense masterpiece. The mural depicts the history of Mexico from the dawn of human existence through to the 1920s. Rivera started work on this mural in 1929, many years after his first mural project. The precision and confidence in his technical skills and expressive style are evident in this work of art. Rivera was decisive in using his art to communicate his ideologies about communism and the rejection of the colonizers. He wanted to bring the crimes of the past clearly into the minds of the people. To ensure these atrocities were never forgotten.

The main message of the mural surrounds the indigenous Mexican people’s struggles to preserve their culture, National identity and country against the brutal colonizers. Standing at the base of the stairwell, take a minute to appreciate the sheer grandeur of the entire piece. So much of the story is sad—a classic tale of good vs. evil. The goodly indigenous Mexicans had one of the most vibrant cultures. Yet, they were practically wiped out by the evil, invading Europeans.

If you squint and look at the entire piece, the bright colours and expressive shapes look powerful, hopeful and strong, just like the Mexican people. Despite the horrors of the past, the post-revolution population believed in the future of their country. Especially as it became an independent nation. And that their strength and perseverance would conquer evil and allow their great country to prosper.

North Wall 

Walk up the stairs to the landing in the center, and look up at the left side, or North Wall. This part of the mural depicts the indigenous Mexicans long before the arrival of the Spaniards. They are surrounded by the fantastical Mexican landscape all around them. The blue is almost heavenly —the large bright sunshine above casting all of them in celestial light. The Aztecs believed in the sun god, as seen in the all-seeing eyes painted onto the sun’s face. Just below the sun, you can also see an erupting volcano with Xiuhtecuhtli’s “the Lord of Fire” exploding from the mouth of the volcano. In the sky flies Quetzalcoatl, the Feathered Serpent deity and god of the wind and the rain.

The Valley of Mexico is spread along the horizon, with its amazing pyramids towering above the people. Standing in front of the pyramids are the Aztec leaders, guiding and looking after their citizens. In the left corner, you can see a small battle scene between two tribes. This violence was a common occurrence in any civilization. But the cultural costumes worn by the different tribes make this little vignette so interesting.

Farmers are tending to vivid corn crops, almost as bright as gold. Craftspeople in the lower right-hand side of the mural are busy weaving, making pottery, playing music, painting and writing on scrolls. This shows their modern civilization, full of technology, art and science! They were the farthest thing from “savages,” as the violent Spanish colonizers reported.

West Side, Main Wall 

We move from the north wall’s idyllic memories to the densely packed and violent images of the west wall. This is the mural straight ahead as you walk up the main stairs. It is the battle of the Mexican people against their oppressors. A story of hatred and war is woven into the fabric of Mexico’s history.

Lower Level Depictions

The lower part of the mural is riddled with images of Mexicans and Indians fighting against the heavily armoured Spanish and French cavalry. The beautiful and bright feathered costumes of the Aztec leaders crushed and fell under the feet of their enemies. Cortez can be seen in the middle of the painting, as he is the only mounted soldier with his face exposed. The rest of the attacker’s helmets are closed. But Rivera paints Cortez with his helmet raised, so his actions are not anonymous.

Cortez’s armies have modern weaponry making their defeat of the Aztecs a foregone conclusion. Despite being outgunned and outnumbered, the Aztecs fought valiantly against the Spanish on the right and left corners. All the while, the Aztecs are being watched over by a great golden eagle in the center. The eagle sits perched atop a cactus with a serpent in its mouth. The design of this symbol is rooted in the legend that the Aztec people would build their great city on the spot where they found an eagle eating a snake on top of a cactus. They called that place Tenochtitlan (Mexico City), and it was worth fighting for them.

Middle Depictions

In the middle of the mural, we see the horrors brought to Mexico by the Spaniards. Not only did they want to conquer the land, but they also wanted to abolish the Aztec religion. The Inquisition went about burning sacred books and religious imagery. You can see these fires burst out across the wall. Priests on the left-hand side can be seen forcefully converting the indigenous people to their new religion of Chrsitiniarity. The Spanish turned many natives into slaves, and these hard-working people were the creators of this “new world.”

Upper Arch Depictions

Under the five arches at the top of the wall are the various rulers of Mexico. Interesting to note is Rivera’s use of non-hierarchical representation. No one man is larger than the other. While some think it makes the mural more challenging to interpret or read, it is part of Rivera’s communist ideologies of equality.

Starting from the left, we see the French Rule and execution of Austrian Emperor Maximilian in 1867. Next to that, we see images of the Porfirian era. This era was coloured with a brutal dictatorial rule accomplished through consensus and repression. In the central arch, we see depictions of Independence and the Mexican Revolution. You can see a man with a mustache carrying a large red banner at the very top of the frame. This is revolutionary Emiliano Zapata, who was one of the leading men in the revolution. The red flag says “Tierra y Libertad,” which means “Land and Liberty.”

To the right, we see images from the Reform and Juarez eras. Benito Juarez was Mexico’s only Indigenous president and the founder of the new Mexican nation. Finally, on the far right, we have the invasion of Mexico by the US. Above the invading US army is the great eagle flying down to attack.

South Wall

The south wall to the left of the main stairwell depicts the future of the Mexican people. The imagery represents progress, prosperity and hopes for a better future. At the top of the mural is the image of Karl Marx holding his great Communist Manifesto on a large scroll. To the right of this is a man flying the Soviet flag. When the mural was painted, the Mexican people and Rivera himself had solid socialist tendencies. The Soviet flag can be seen throughout imagery from this era.

To the right of Karl is a scene of Mexican workers. They are being attacked and oppressed by police wearing large gas masks. This scene takes place in front of Mexico City’s skyline silhouette. While the other two murals are more fluid in their collage-like design, this mural is framed in harsh geometric metal beams. Inside these almost cage-looking rectangles are pictorial representations of what Rivera saw as negative social forces in high society. 

At the bottom of the painting is the image of a woman dressed in bright red. Look closely at her face to see if you can recognize the model. It is none other than his wife, Frida Kahlo. Frida holds a copy of the Marxist manifesto and is engaged in a political rally. Very similar to her real-life political activism. Above her is another similar-looking woman. This is Frida’s sister Cristina, with whom Rivera had an affair during his marriage to Frida.

Second Level

On the second level of the courtyard patio are 11 additional murals painted by Rivera. These are continuations of the history but highlight particular scenes that Rivera found to be important during the pre-Hispanic era. These murals were not finished, and it’s interesting to see them as works in progress captured in time.

Cárcamo de Dolores

There are several other spots in Mexico City to see if you are following in the footsteps of Diego Rivera. One location to visit that is home to two important spots is the great Bosque de Chapultepec or Chapultepec Park. The park is one of the largest city parks in the Western Hemisphere and spans over 1,600 acres! A dense and populated city needs fresh air, and this park acts as its “lungs,” with trees that replenish oxygen to the Valley of Mexico. The name Chapultepec stems from the Nahuatl word chapoltepēc, which means “at the grasshopper’s hill.” If you find yourself in Chapultepec Park, you can also visit the Cárcamo de Dolores. 

The Cárcamo was built in 1951 under engineers Eduardo Molina Arévalo and Guillermo Torres. The Cárcamo de Dolores (or Sump of Dolores) was a hydraulic structure that housed a giant water tank. From here, the city would control the levels in several other large water reservoirs. But, the space was given an artistic flair by Diego Rivera. 

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Tláloc, the God of Water

Once the new system was implemented, they set about creating this museum in honour of the water god Tláloc. Tláloc is the god of rain, water and earthly fertility. Walking up to the building, you can see the giant tiled fountain with the image of Tláloc lying down, spread over 100 feet wide. He lies with his legs laid splayed, decorated with brightly coloured stones mined from the natural resources of the Mexican landscape. Originally, the area where we now find the fountain was the entry point where the Lerma River water entered the city’s reservoir.

Water has long been both worshipped and yet highly problematic in Mexico City. After the Spanish conquest, they drained the precious life-giving rivers and lakes. Since then, the city has constantly been searching for accessible water. So people are continually making their prayers to Tláloc. In the hopes he can solve what even modern-day engineers still have not.

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Main Building

Inside the main building is where you can find Rivera’s murals, Water, Origin of Life. These murals pay tribute to the workers, engineers and architects who participated in the construction of the original Cárcamo water system. These 200 square meters of murals were meant to be underwater, making them the only underwater mural in the world. Today, the murals’ pools are empty, allowing the public to observe the artworks. Constant aquatic exposure resulted in the slow deterioration of these historical works, so the water was drained and diverted. A pipe organ has been installed to give the room the same atmosphere as it once had. The organ makes noises through the adjacent municipal pipes to make the room sound like a functional waterway.

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Panteón de Dolores

On the other side of the Avenue Bosques in Chapultepec Park is the great Panteón Civil de Dolores. This Pantheon, or cemetery, is the largest cemetery in Mexico. And in my opinion, this cemetery is one of the greatest in the world! Filled with some of the most incredibly elaborate and imaginative tombstones. The cemetery was built in 1897 on Juan Manuel Benfield’s ranch. Benfield founded the cemetery in honour of his wife, who had recently died in Veracruz. She couldn’t be buried in Veracruz as all cemeteries there were for Roman Catholics only, and they were practicing Anglicans. The cemetery grew and grew over the years, becoming home to some of the most illustrious dead of Mexico City. Today, the cemetery has over 700,000 tombs and is considered the most crowded cemetery in Latin America.

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They even have a special section of the cemetery called the ‘Rotonda de las Personas Ilustres‘ (Rotunda of Illustrious Persons). This area honours those who have exalted Mexico’s civic, national and human values. Originally it was named the Rotunda of Illustrious Men. But it was renamed by President Vicente Fox in 2003 as the cemetery also honours many famous women. The first person to be buried here was soldier Pedro Litechipia, who died fighting against the empire of Maximilian in 1876. 

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Diego Rivera’s Tomb

Included among the illustrious dead is Diego Rivera. Interestingly enough, Rivera had requested that he not be buried at all. Instead, he wanted to be cremated and his ashed comingled with those of his beloved Frida Kahlo. Frida’s urn can be found inside her beloved Casa Azul. Sadly, upon his death, his family overruled his decision and had this tomb designed to house his body. The vault was designed with pre-Hispanic patterns and symbols swirling around the tombstone. Emerging from the stone are the bright white marble arms and the death mask of Diego Rivera himself. As if the artist is merely asleep and is rising from the grave. Haunting and yet beautiful all at once.

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The Flower Vendor (Girl with Lilies)

On either side of the tomb are bouquets of white calla lilies carved in marble. So they may bloom for eternity. Rivera’s famous The Flower Vendor (Girl with Lilies) is one of Rivera’s most famous artworks. Although the lily is associated with funerals and death to Rivera, it symbolizes indigenous culture. It also references Mexico’s abundant flora and even a hint of sensuality, as the flower resembles a certain part of the female anatomy. Flower sellers also represent the poor working class. Who sold the beauty of the Mexican landscape to the wealthy upper class, which consumed it. For this reason, focusing on the flowers on his grave is even more important to his legacy.

Tomb Mosaic

Above the tomb, on a large stone marker, is a beautiful mosaic. It features the image of an older indigenous woman surrounded by lit candles. The scene appears dark as if she is here at night. She kneels on the ground, planting seeds with a woven basket in front of her. A symbol of how Rivera planted seeds in the minds and eyes of the Mexican people. Inspiring them for ages to come. On the opposite side of the mosaic is a burst of Rivera set into the stone. Below it is a large inscription dedicated to the life and impact of the great artist.

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Coyoacan and San Angel

You can visit many other places that are significant to Diego Rivera, located outside the city centre. Luckily, Uber makes seeing many of these destinations very straightforward. Two neighbouring areas worth visiting are the colourful suburb of Coyoacan and the quiet artistic streets of San Ángel.

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo

The rural hamlet, filled with cobblestone streets and bougainvillea-covered colonial homes of San Angel, was where Diego Rivera called home in his old age. While the Casa Azul was Frida’s palace, the Casa Estudio was Diego Rivera’s oasis. Here, you can learn more about Diego, the man, not just Diego, the artist. This was Rivera’s dream home. He had it custom designed by architect and friend Juan O’Gorman.

Juan O’Gorman

O’ Gorman studied functionalist construction under the swiss design of Le Corbusier. Gorman was enthusiastic about bringing this modernist style to Mexico City. A city he saw as being a hub for modern thinking and exquisite architecture. Diego and Frida’s studio house would be the first construction using functionalist architecture in Latin America. Functionalism was a style defined by buildings that should only express their use or function. They removed excess decoration and prized minimalism.

For Diego and Frida, this functionalist ideal represented their need for two separate studios. Functionally, they could not work together. Frida and Diego’s relationship was plagued with intensity, both good and bad. But when it was bad, it was very, very bad. They found the need to have two different spaces to work to focus on their craft without quarrelling with one another all day. And yet, the two buildings are connected by a large bridge on the top. It is a symbol of their love. That at the end of the day, they still found a way to come together and connect. 

The Architecture of the House/Studio

The two buildings were designed almost as polar opposites. Diego’s studio building is painted off-white and rust-red. Simple, natural colours. On the other hand, Frida’s studio is painted the same ethereal cobalt blue as her Casa Azul. Both studies feature almost floor-to-ceiling windows, giving the interior space an indoor/outdoor feeling. The houses are separated from the street by a perimeter fence. But instead of being made from wood or wrought iron, the fence is made of rows of tall cacti along the roadside. Giving it the most iconic appearance.

The couple lived here from 1934 to 1939. In 1939, they divorced, and Frida moved home to Casa Azul. Leaving Diego to live full-time, alone in the studio house. After their divorce, the couple actually got back together only 9-months later. But even after this reconciliation, Frida and Diego kept the studio house. Diego would continue to live there full-time until his death on November 24, 1957. Rivera died in his studio, and his body remained there as friends and family sat vigil inside to mourn the loss. After this, his body was moved to the Palacio de Bellas Artes for his state funeral. After his death, his daughter inherited the house. But she gifted it to the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes to be enjoyed by the public for years to come as a museum.

Diego’s Studio

Diego’s studio is filled with natural energy. The floor-to-ceiling windows allow sunshine to shine through and ignite the space. The studio museum still contains brushes and pigments, which Rivera used to make his murals. He is sitting on his easel like he is about to walk back into the room mid-painting. Dotting the walls are items from Rivera’s pre-hispanic arts and crafts collections. Books lined the shelves, which served as artistic inspirations and portraits of Diego’s many friends and fellow artists. It really felt like a space that was intimate and highly personal.

But filling the majority of the studio are these huge paper-mâché figures. These are called “Judases” and are life-sized papier-mâché dolls popular in Mexican folk art. These are usually made to be burnt as a part of the celebrations on the day before Easter. The figures are made in the image of Judas the Traitor or other unfavourable people. This could be anything from images of devils and demons or even politicians, criminals and disliked shopkeepers. They are then stuffed with fireworks and blown up on the street. Much to the enjoyment of the onlookers. But Rivera didn’t blow them up. Instead, he kept them as souvenirs of the local artisans. Although the simple craftsmen who made them might not see them as high art, Diego saw these as treasures to keep forever.

Plaza San Jacinto

Just a 5-minute drive from the museum/studio, make a stop in the Plaza San Jacinto. This beautiful park is a hub of activity on Saturday mornings. On the weekends, artisans of the San Angel neighbourhood descend on the park to display and sell their creations. Small groups of artists often sell throughout the week, but Saturdays are the most popular day. You’re guaranteed to find the marketplace bustling on those days.

Make your way to the plaza’s centre and look across from the elegant central fountain. There, you will see a bronze easel with the burst of Diego Rivera emblazoned into the cartouche. As Rivera was a resident of the San Angel for many years, local artists inspired by Rivera wanted to commemorate him for generations to come. There is something wonderful about Rivera’s face looking over at the artists in the square selling their works. Continuing his passion for supporting Mexican artists, even from the great beyond.

Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

Now let us head into the vibrant neighbourhood of Coyoacan. Our first stop is at the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This building is now a free cultural centre to enter and explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on an Izotitlán farm, a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow wild all over the property.

Just inside the entrance to the Casa is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can sit alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple. The house has existed here since 1780, occupied by various families. It’s no stretch to imagine that the previous owners would have welcomed the famous couple into their garden for a visit or a dinner party from time to time.

Casa Azul

La Casa Azul, or “the blue house,” located on Londres Street in Coyoacán, once belonged to Frida’s father, Guillermo Kahlo. It was here where she was born. She grew up inside these walls. It was where she suffered from illness but flourished as an artist. Eventually, Frida bought the house from her parents and lived with Diego throughout their marriage. They even got divorced and remarried, all within these blue walls. And ultimately, it was the place where she would pass away. It was her sanctuary but also her cage. She spent more years inside these walls than perhaps anywhere else in the world. As such, it is one of the most intimate looks into her life that you can experience.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at Frida and Diego’s private world. The house has sketches by both artists and pictures of the two as a couple. But the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art. They collected pre-Hispanic artifacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more which are still on display. Walking inside their home, you feel a deep connection with Frida and Diego. To learn more about Casa Azul, take my self-guided tour!

Frida Kahlo Park

Frida and Diego loved the outdoors. Diego often painted outside. The outdoors were an important part of their artistic life. In the centre of Coyoacan, you can make your way to Frida Kahlo Park. In the middle of the park, you’ll find two large bronze sculptures of Frida and Diego. Frida is dressed in her classic Tehuana outfit, gazing over at Diego. This park has a very structured layout, the bushes around it perfectly pruned into geometric shapes. Slightly resembling Aztec pyramids popping out in the background.

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Museo Anahuacalli

If you are travelling to Xochimilco, you should stop by the Museo Anahuacalli. Your ticket into the Casa Azul also covers your entry into this museum. The Museo Anahuacalli was another one of Diego Rivera’s homes. Diego and Frida were fierce nationalists who loved their home country and wanted to preserve its history. Diego and Frida dreamed of opening their own museum dedicated to these objects. Sadly, in their lifetime, this dream never came to fruition. But after Diego’s death, his daughter took up the project and created the Museo Anahuacalli. Architect Juan O’Gorman, who designed their studio, also designed this house.

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The house’s exterior was made using black volcanic stone from an old Mexico volcano. The texture is something truly unique. There are over 50,000 pre-Hispanic pieces inside the museum. Some of these Diego would collect while he and Frida would travel to ancient Aztec pyramids outside of Mexico City. Each one of them was a piece of Mexico’s heritage, a heritage that inspired the historical influences of Rivera’s artwork.

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Museo Dolores Olmedo

Also, near Xochimilco, stop at the Museo Dolores Olmedo Museum. The museum is located inside the grounds of an old 16th-century residence. In 1962, Dolores Olmedo bought the house. Dolores was a fierce collector of art as well as a lover of Mexican culture. It is no surprise to learn then that she was old friends with Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. She was also one of their most prolific collectors, and her gallery remains the largest private collection of their works. In 1994, her collection was transformed into the museum we now find today. Luckily, Dolores lived until 2002, so she could see this fantastic house converted into an art gallery for the public to enjoy.

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Olmedo & Rivera

Olmedo met Rivera when she was only 17 years old on a trip to Mexico City with her mother. They met while Rivera was working on his murals inside the Ministry of Education building. Inside the museum, you can see one of the portraits that Rivera painted of her. He made it in 1955 after their first meeting. As their friendship continued, Rivera continued to paint Olmedo and her children. They were so close, in fact, that Olmedo invited Rivera to spend time with her family in her home in Acapulco. Here, the painter made over 50 different paintings of sunsets from Olmedo’s front porch. Several of these paintings can be viewed inside the museum.

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Today you can explore gardens filled with exotic Mexican plants, magical peacocks and Xoloitzcuintles. Xoloitzcuintles are a rare dog breed that was once only thought it exists in mythical stories of the afterlife. But the breed is actually an ancient hairless Aztec dog. The museum also features a permanent exhibition of works by Russian-Mexican artist Angelina Beloff, Diego Rivera’s first wife.

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This brings us to the end of the Mexico City tour, walking in Diego Rivera’s footsteps. I hope you enjoyed your time with us and learned something new about the city along the way! Let me know in the comments what your favourite stop along the tour was!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Insider’s Guide to a Diego Rivera’s Life & Art in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

When I first came to Denmark, this castle was one of the top things on my list to do. Rick Steves‘, my personal travel guru, had a rave review of Frederiksborg and I knew, based on his opinion, I had to make the journey out there myself! The most unique aspect of the castle is perhaps its furnishings. Frederiksborg is decorated to look as if it is still inhabited. There are few barriers between you and the history and at times, when you’re alone in the room, you feel like you could just jump into bed (but don’t). As you move through the castle, you travel through time, room by room, by the changing decor.

Location

Frederiksborg Castle is located in the small town of Hillerød. If you want to make an entire day out of your trip to Frederiksbborg Castle, you should spend some time in the village of Hillerød. It is such a perfect, quaint little town. The Hillerød City & Graphic Museum is a great place to visit on your way out of town. It features a complete history oh Hillerod, games for children and a little letterpress museum. There is an amazing gallery featuring samples of advertisements that were used in town printed on that very letterpress. Large dioramas of what day-to-day activities would have looked like in Denmark in the 19th-century are also joyfully curated to bring this town’s history to life.

How to Get There

Assuming you’re coming to Frederiksborg from Copenhagen, you’ll just need to hop on the S-train. Take Line A from Copenhagen Station to Hillerød Station. The ride takes about 40 minutes and costs 92 DKK or $9 USD.

From Hillerød Station you can walk directly to the Palace. The walk takes just under 20 minutes and is a lovely little jaunt through the village. If the weather isn’t on your side, you can also take the local bus 301 (towards Ullerød) or bus 302 (towards Sophienlund). Get off at the stop “Frederiksborg Slot” or Frederiksborg Palace.

There is also a third option, which is the ferry! You can take the ferry right into the castle but I would recommend doing the ferry on your way back. The optimal way to experience the castle tour is from via the roadway which leads into the front entry, whereas the ferry would take you into via the back entrance.

Hours and Admission

Buy your tickets online or at the castle on the day you arrive. Unless you’re visiting during the absolute peak of the season, I wouldn’t worry about buying a ticket in advance as this castle is pretty quiet when compared to other popular attractions.

Accessibility

It’s important to note that the entryway into the castle is heavily cobbled. If you have a walking aid you should be ok with some assistance. But if you require handicapped access, there is a separate entrance available to the right of the main entrance. Press the button to call for assistance.

Elevators connect all floors of the museum for wheelchair access. The only rooms not available are the Palace Chapel and the Great Hall (which are not accessible to wheelchairs). If you think all the walking might be a little strenuous and you’d rather be comfortable, the museum has two wheelchairs, which can be borrowed from the ticket office. Authorized guides and assistance dogs are also welcome in the museum.

When to Arrive

I would recommend arriving right when the palace opens. There is so much to see here but arriving at opening also means you’ll find the least amount of people here. The early bird catches the worm, and when I came in the early morning I had almost the entire place to myself. It was magical. But one of the reasons I love this castle is because of its low levels of tourist traffic. That means that even if you get up late you’ll still find a rather open and uncrowded palace to explore.

Kaffebar

Since the only cafe on the castle property is located very far away from the main entrance, you’re best to stop for some breakfast or lunch on your way into town. My pick would be Kaffebar. This bohemian cafe is a great place to get your morning brew and enjoy a traditional Danish breakfast. Which, contrary to popular belief, does not contain danishes. Try their freshly baked rye bread with cheese, ham and sausage or one of their many rich pastries!

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History of Frederikzborg Castle

Purchased by Frederick II in 1560, Frederiksborg Castle was once simply a noble manor house owned by a wealthy landowner. At the time, Frederick II was the reigning sovereign of Denmark and Norway. He fell in love with the manor. Frederick was obsessed with obtaining it and eventually purchased it in exchange for a new royal title for the current owner. He named it Frederiksborg, which translated means literally to “Frederick’s Palace“. Frederick II made many additions to expand the house into an awe-inspiring castle. He wanted to build on the grandeur of the original structure but add his own artistic touches.

When his son, Christian IV, became king he was keen to transform the palace as well. These kings never seemed satisfied. Christian was born inside the walls of the palace. Therefore, it held a very important place in the heart of the new king. Christian IV was progressive. He loved the new style and designs of Dutch Renaissance architecture. Once he took power, he was excited to see the palace reflect the designs of his time. Flemish architect Hans van Steenwinckel the Elder was brought on to create Christian’s vision. It took over 10 years to be completed and the construction even outlived the original architect.

1800s Renovations

In the 1800s, renovations took place to install new fireplaces throughout the castle as the heating had been a huge issue for the comfort of those nobles inside. But it was this very act that would bring great destruction to the palace. One winter’s night, while in his study, the current king Frederick VII asked for a fire to be lit to keep him warm while he worked late into the night. Since the chimneys were still under construction, the smoke and heat could not be released and a fire broke out inside the castle.

The Great Fire

The lake was frozen over and staff couldn’t get enough water pumped to put out the fire. The fire spread rapidly throughout the castle and by morning almost the entire palace had been severely damaged or destroyed. Staff had worked throughout the night to save over 300 paintings and smaller historical items from the fire. You can still see these saved items on display today inside the castle.

After the fire, the royals stayed in another one of their residences while Frederiksborg castle was being rebuilt. But after a short period of time, the royals decided to abandon the reconstruction of Frederiksborg castle. It was too much of a financial drain on their coffers and since they had other large manor houses, it felt like an unnecessary expense.

Transformation into a Museum

In 1878, J. C. Jacobsen, the founder of Carlsberg Brewery, had the grand idea to turn the disused Palace, into a museum. Jacobsen was a passionate collector and loved his country. He thought it was a travesty to see this beautiful piece of history deteriorating in the countryside. He offered to pay for all its reconstruction and any further expenses! Today the palace is still run by the Carlsberg Foundation and it is thanks for him that can explore this wonderous piece of Danish architecture. 

The castle museum features 500 years of Danish history which has been woven throughout the walls of the palace. There are portraits, paintings of historic events, antique furniture and decorative arts dotting the entire palace, creating a timeline of Danish life. Seeing these pieces in-situ, rather than just clumped together in a modern gallery, makes history come alive! Many portraits along these walls are of some of the most famous Danes and Royals who helped shape the face of their country and even lived within the walls of the castle.

Castle Lake

When you first approach the castle, you’ll spot the large lake which surrounds it. It creates a reflective frame around the beautiful red-bricked building. This lake is appropriately called “Castle Lake” and was built in 1560. It served both as a leisure area for the King and his court but also as a moat to keep the castle protected. While Denmark hasn’t seen war in many years, during the time of the castle’s construction, Denmark had frequent battles with other Scandinavian nations, so protection was very important. Today, the area around the lake is accessible to everyone from Hillerød and acts as a public park for the townspeople.

Town Gate

The first thing you’ll see when you arrive at the entrance to the castle is a small bridge in front of a stone archway called the Town Gate. In the centre of the stone archway is a statue of a great lion. He represents one of the three lions which serve as a symbol of Denmark.

Staldgaden

After passing under the gate, you’ll walk down a narrow street towards the castle. The name of this small street is called Staldgaden which translates to housing street as this was where all the servants to the king’s court lived. Walking down this narrow cobblestone pathway, you can see on either side of you two, single-storey buildings. These old complexes were the King’s Stables (to the west) and the Hussars’ Stables (to the east).

At the back of the stables are two matching towers, dubbed the Frederik II’s Round Towers. These were built in 1562 and bear the coat of arms of Frederick II. On the coat of arms is the motto Mein Hoffnung zu Gott allein which means “My hope to God alone“. 

The Gatehouse

As you reach the end of Staldgaden you’ll pass along the S-shaped bridge, over the castle lake, to bring you to the feet of the gatehouse. Christian VI’s Gatehouse was built in 1736. Standing guard, with its copper tiered roof, the Gatehouse is adorned with a huge sandstone relief of the Danish Coat of Arms. The Danish Coat of Arms is made up of three lions with their paws extended, surrounded by nine hearts. These hearts are also called “søblade“, and represent the love for the sea as the Danes were known for their seafaring explorations.

The Neptune Fountain

After you pass through the gatehouse you’ll emerge into the first courtyard. Standing in the center is the commanding Neptune Fountain. The fountain was made in honour of the naval forces in Denmark which were the leading army on the Baltic seas. At the very top of the fountain, we can see the great sea god Neptune. He stands with his hand outstretched, reaching out towards us. In Neptune’s other hand is his great Tritan, at the ready to defend Denmark.

Below him, on pedestals around the central column, are gorgeous rivers and spring deities. Surrounding the lowest level of the fountain are water nymphs. In their hands, they play seashell trumpets. Water spurts forth from these decorations to exalt their great leader, Neptune.

Dutchman Adrian de Vries

The original fountain was designed by Dutchman Adrian de Vries in 1617 but the one that stands here today is actually a replica. This is because the fountain, in its entirety, was stolen by the Swedes during the Swedish Wars. If you’ve ever visited the Royal Summer Palace in Drottningholm, Sweden, you’ll have seen the original fountain as it still stands there today. The current design was made in 1888, funded by Jacob Christian Jacobsen who felt his museum wasn’t complete until the fountain was at least in some part, restored to the palace.

On either side of the Nepture fountain, you’ll see two thin buildings. On the left, we have the Castellan’s lodge and on the right, we have the Chancery Building. A castellan is an appointed official, a governor of a castle and its surrounding territory. The chancery is the building that houses diplomatic missions, such as the Danish embassy. Both of these places were of great importance to the function of the royal family and the government.

Frederiksborg Castle Buildings

Standing in front of the Neptune fountain you’ll have an unobstructed view of the grandeur that is Frederiksborg Castle. Designed in the classic Dutch Renaissance tradition, Frederiksborg is shaped in a quadrangular structure. Dutch Renaissance architecture used red bricks for the exterior and the buildings were topped with stepped gables and towering copper spires.

The four main structures, which make up the quadrangular castle can be seen here from a distance. To the west, we have the Chapel Wing, which was built in 1606. Straight in front of your eyes is the main wing, the King’s Wing, built in 1604. To the east, we have Princess Wing built in 1608. The fourth structure is the clock tower built in 1617 after nine years of construction. These buildings are all joined together by the Terrace Wing to form the great Frederiksborg Castle.

The Terrance Wing

Guarding the entrance to the castle, is a large central doorway that leads into the secondary courtyard. Atop the doorway is a great sandstone work of art carved into the portal. This is the monogram of Christian IV. The large ‘C4’ is chiselled into a circular coin shape, surrounded by rich foliage. On either side of the monogram are two small carvings in the shape of a man and woman. On the left, we have the image of King Christian himself and on the right, is his wife, Anne Catherine of Brandenburg.

Below this area, take a look at the small coat of arms with two unicorns on either side. Unicorns are a part of a cherished Danish myth that says that the throne of Denmark was made of the horns of thousands of unicorns. As such the mythological animal is a strong piece of symbolism to the country.

On either side of the bridge before crossing into the inner courtyard, you’ll find two large sandstone statues of great lions. The lions are reared up on their back legs, with their paws wrapped around a large orb. Orbs are seen frequently in royal symbolism and are thought to represent the globe. The lions with their hands wrapped around it therein representing the Danish power wrapping around the world.

Exterior Statues

On either side of the large doorway, are a series of sumptuously decorated set of sculptures under an ornamented balustrade. Inside the little niches are sculptures of characters from astrology and mythology. The Dutch Renaissance loved these themes and this addition seemed to add to the fairytale nature of the castle. Included in these statues are images of Alexander the Great and Julius Caesar, two amazing historical leaders that the Danish kings wanted to mirror in their own leadership.

Inner Courtyard

Enter through the doorway into the inner courtyard. Staring right at you as you walk inside is the Great Gallery from 1621. This gallery is made up of a series of sculptures across the front of the King’s Wing. These statues are of various Gods and notable historical leaders. They were made by Hans van Steenwinckel the Younger in Amsterdam and brought to Denmark by ship. On the right, under a small copper dome, is the entrance to the castle well, which you can still see behind a wrought iron gate.

Take note of the use of columns here and throughout the castle. Roman and Greek architecture profoundly influenced the Dutch Renaissance as can be seen in the use of columns as adornment. But unlike in Greek architecture, these columns and moulding are richly decorated and bas-reliefs are carved into any flat surface.

Clock Tower

On the left side, we can see the huge, clock tower, marked by golden clockfaces. The clock tower features a clock face on either side of the building, so that no matter where you were in the palace, you could look out and see the time. The dials of the clock end not in a point but in the shape of a star burst and are set against a backdrop of golden sun.

The church is located under the clock tower and it is perhaps for this reason that this tower is so richly decorated. This one wing was the only one to survive the horrific fires and therefore much of the restoration work was done to mirror these original designs. At the top of the clock tower is a golden spire with a horse and crown atop it.

Stained Glass

From the exterior courtyard, look up at the windows, and bay windows, which protrude from the castle walls. Each of these windows is sumptuously decorated with vibrant stained glass, another popular feature of Renaissance architecture. Everything from family crests to royal symbology and historical portraits are represented here in delicate glasswork.

The Rose Dining Room

Enter the central doorway to step for the first time into the interior of the castle. Once you pass through the admission gate, you enter the great Rose Room. This room on the lower level is a recreation of the great Dining Room of King Christian IV. The naming of this room as the “Rose Room” is a hint at the true nature of the goings-on at royal dinner parties. The Latin phrase sub rosa means “under the rose”, and is used in English to denote secrecy or confidentiality. This dining room was where the court could come and be themselves, away from the eyes of the public.

This room was severely damaged during the fire, but luckily, dozens of paintings were made of the interiors of the castle, which were used to recreate these rooms authentically.

Interior Ornamentation

One of my favourite parts of this room is the white stucco ceilings supported by six vaults which rest on free-standing pillars. In the centre of the extremely detailed ceiling are various golden monograms set in a sea of white stucco flowers and vines. The juxtaposition of the white ceiling and dark wood floors is a beautiful piece of architectural contrast.

The wallpaper in this room is especially interesting. It was made of an imitation leather material and covered in gilt to look as rich as possible. Like running your fingers along the spine of an ancient book which covers the entire room.

Throughout the castle, there are little displays featuring clothing from the various time periods that royals inhabited the castle. This gives you an idea of the kind of regalia that would be floating up and down the hallways of the castle when it was a bustling imperial residence.

Staircase

Head through the door marked 2nd floor, which leads you up the winding staircase. This passageway leads guests into the Chapel. As you walk you’ll pass hundreds of shields, emblazoned with the coat of arms of the houses of Denmark’s royal families. They are almost piled one upon the other, making you aware of the legacy that Denmark’s royal family left on the country. There are over 3,500 of these shields in the castle. 400 of them belong to the Order of the Elephant and the remaining 3,100 belong to the Order of Dannebrog. Because the staircases were spared from the fire, all the shields are still originals.

Chapel

Walking into the Chapel, your jaw practically drops right to the floor. The sparkle of the golden ceiling, the bright glimmer of the stained glass windows and the brilliant red pews together combine to create such an awe-inspiring image. The Chapel is one of the few original rooms in the palace, as it was also spared by the great fire that consumed the rest of the building.

Dutch Renaissance

The Chapel was built in 1617, right in the middle of the great Dutch Renaissance. Since the Renaissance was all about reflecting the architectural styles of ancient Rome and Greece, you’ll see here the powerful use of columns, repeated to create a long nave and two-storey gallery. The arches which connect the pillars are richly decorated with grisaille frescos. Grisaille is a painting technique that uses only shades of grey to imitate the looks of sculptures. It was a method of achieving a more luxurious look at half the cost.

The Chapel inside Frederiksborg Castle was for more than just the king’s private prayer roon. After 1648, the chapel was the place where the future kings and queens of Denmark were crowned and anointed. It truly was an almost godly interior.

The roof is the real show stopper here. The six-vaulted stucco ceiling is pouring with golden embellishments and rosettes along the vault ribs bloom like they are in the middle of summer sunlight. In between, there are delicately painted pink cherubs looking down on the faithful below.

Paintings decorate the walls of the upper level. These paintings are from the Danish royal family’s art collection. Each one depicting scenes from the bible, featuring virtues that would befitted feature kings and inspired their good nature.

The Organ

Just below the great golden ceiling, you’ll see the other gem of the Chapel, the great organ. It was built in 1610 by Esajas Compenius and it the oldest organ in Denmark! The organ was a gift to Christian IV in 1617 when the chapel was consecrated. Despite it’s proximity to the great fire, the original wooden pipes were preserved, something which is a rarity to see in organs, since many were modernized with metal pipes.

The organ is still operational and uses a manually driven blower to create a rich sound. It requires two people to play it; one to pump it and the other to play the keys. On either side of the organ are these beautifully carved statues holding the crests of the royal family of Denmark.

On the opposite side of the church, is a new set of organ pipes, installed in 1863. While these might not be as old as the previous ones, they are, in my opinion, much more beautiful. The metal pipes are surrounded in multicoloured carvings. Everywhere you look there is a little angel poking its head out from amongst the pastel-painted decorations.

The Altar

On the lower level of the chapel, the amazing treasures don’t stop. Head up to the front of the church where you’ll find the great altarpiece and pulpit. These were both installed in the early 17th century and are by the famous silversmith Jacob Mores. The altarpiece is made of silver and ebony, with gold touches just to make the entire piece feel like something truly holy.

Coats of Arms

Other than the paintings, on the walls, you’ll see more of the amazing Coats of Arms which we were introduced to on the way up the stairs. As mentioned before these are from the Order of the Danopole and the Order of the Elephant, the two chivalric orders of Denmark.

The Order of the Elephant is the highest rank someone could receive. The Order of the Elephant shields are significantly more detailed, with a blue shashes and commander’s cross in chains painted around the shield. Look closely and you’ll see that the chain links are actually tiny elephants connected together.

Coats of Arms of Heads of State

Coats of arms were also given to foreign heads of state. These were symbolic of great partnerships such as the ones gives to the allies of WWII. They were given to both President Eisenhower and Winston Churchill. I loved studying all the different house crests in the centre of the shields. Each one was so different from the other, and it felt like, through the symbolism therein, you could learn so much about a family you’ve never met.

The Oratory

Continuing along on the upper level of the Chapel, and head under a low archway into the King’s private prayer room, or Oratory. This darkened room was where the king would come to pray, away from the clamour of the court and the public. His chapel is decorated on all sides by amazing paintings from the New Testament. Although the original paintings were lost in the fire, these new ones were inspired by paintings from the time and evoke the idea of what the oratory once would have looked like.

The walls here are carved from rich nutmeg coloured wood, with fantastically detailed decorations in between the panels. In the centre of the room stands a great silver altar, much like the one in the chapel. This was designed by goldsmith Matthäus Wallbaum in 1600 and made prayer in this small room feel all the more grandiose.

My favourite part of this room is once again, the ceiling. Turn your head upwards and spot the various strangely shaped ebony carvings. Some look like blossoming rosettes and others appear to be spikes curving into horn-like shapes. They feel so unique and almost otherworldly, something you might not expect to see in a religious setting.

Valdemarsalen

The Valdemarsalen is a pale yellow room, featuring hunting regalia all over the walls. The room is named after Valdemar I of Denmark who ruled from 1146 to 1182. King Valdemar was a great ruler and it was partly due to him that Denmark saw its rise to power in the medieval period. This room features objects from his life in Denmark in medieval times. Richly carved wood was the most popular item and various pieces of furniture from this period have been collected here to give you an idea of what Valdemar’s quarters might once have looked like.

Otto Bache

This room also features several large scale paintings depicting scenes from the Middle Ages in Denmark. One of the most interesting is ‘The Conspirators Riding Away from Finderup after Murdering King Erik Klipping‘ by Otto Bache. The scene takes place in 1286 but was painted in 1882 and depicted one of the greatest royal murders of Danish history. The nobles of Denmark were angry that King Erik had enforced several policies that they did not approve of. But instead of just opposing them, they did the very medieval thing to do and conspired to murder him. They paid off one of his most trusted companions to keep them informed of the king’s whereabouts, and one night, when he was left unguarded, he was murdered by the noble’s hired assassin. Here they can be seen fleeing after being informed of their plots success.

Audience Chamber Privy Passage

To the left, you’ll see a door marked ‘Audience Chamber‘. Head through this private passage, which stretches out across the lake. The passageway to the Audience Chamber is perhaps even more beautiful than the Audience Chamber itself. The passageway and the Chamber were designed for King Christian V in the 1680s. During this period Baroque was the style which reigned supreme! The baroque period is characterized by light and shadow and most of all, drama! The stucco used throughout the passageway is adorned in plant life, another element of importance to the baroque period. You’ll see scrolling foliage and garlands of flowers everywhere you look.

On the walls of the passage, you’ll see landscape paintings by Josse de Momper. One of the most powerful images is of Venus by Petro Liben. She gestures towards the Audience Chamber as if inviting guests inside. On the ceiling of the Privy Passage you can see four images representing earthly elements; earth, air, fire and water.

The Audience Chamber

The Audience Chamber was designed in 1616. From here you have one of the most amazing views of the lake and surrounding baroque garden. This was the King’s private room, and he wanted the best view of his great palace and grounds. Like the Chapel, this room, being so separated from the rest of the castle, also survived the great fire!

On the walls throughout the room are portraits of Christian V and his family. The largest painting is of the king with his three sons, the future kings of Denmark. In this painting, they are dressed as Roman emperors. This was a popular fashion at the time to compare oneself to other great leaders in history but looks funny to see the almost dressed in costumes.

King Christian V’s motto

On the ceiling, is a great fresco of King Christian V’s motto “With Piety and Justice.” Hanging beneath it, over the small dining table, is a large golden chandelier featuring a jumping stag in the centre. Hunting was a great pastime of Kings and royalty, especially in their country manor homes.

Above the windows are paintings of significant battles, and the king’s triumph during the Scanian War. These images were something future Kings could look up at and be inspired by in moments of doubt or failure.

One of the more exciting parts of this room is a chair located in the corner. This chair might look a little odd, and this is because it’s a chair lift that can go from this room to the floor above, which contains the king’s private apartments, just like a modern-day elevator. The chair lift was installed when the king fell ill and found it challenging to walk up the stairs between the various floors.

Painted in the four corners of the ceiling are four becoming female figures which represent the four corners of the world. At the time Denmark had colonies in each of these places and the paintings were meant to reflect this position of power which Denmark held over the world.

Room 25

From the Audience Chamber, head back through the Valdermarsalen, into Room #25. If you are ever confused as to what room you’re inside, take a look at the numbers above the doorways as they are all marked. Hanging above one of the doorways is a huge family tree from 1570. The piece once hung in the old Sonderborg Castle Chapel but was moved here to decorate Frederiskborg after the fire. The furniture inside this room is all from the 16th century and features Gothic embellishments.

One important thing to note as you explore the rooms is that they are almost entirely lit by daylight. This little detail makes the rooms feel more authentic modern museums with artificial lights. The pieces inside would not have been designed to appear under such fluorescent lighting, and therefore, they look more natural with nothing but the sun to illuminate their beauty.

Room 26

Room #26 features items from the Danish Reformation Era. During this era, Christian III came to power and became head of the Danish church. To mark the importance of this period in history, a Danish translation of the Bible can be seen under a protective glass case which was one of the first of its kind in the Danish language.

Room 27

This pale blue room with a gorgeous star vaulted ceiling is dedicated to the reign of Frederik II. Hanging above the main wood dresser are two portraits, facing each other. This is King Frederik and Queen Sofia, who would have made this room their bedchamber. The rest of the room is filled with additional portraits of the bourgeois who attended court at this time. This was the first moment in history when paintings of non-royal members of the family were allowed to be made, so their depictions are especially important.

From this room, you can easily peek out the window, and see the courtyard below. Looking out the windows of the castle is a great way to orientate yourself as you walk through the maze of rooms inside.

Room 28

Room 28 is the Noble Portraits room. It features a collection of paintings of the nobles of the Danish court. The most famous person on these walls is Tycho Brahe, a famous astronomer from the 1600s. In the centre of the room is a large suit of armour, standing guard in front of the windows. The armour is a copy of that worn by Henrik Rantzau “the learned” who visited Jerusalem and Egypt in 1623 during the Crusades.

Room 29

Room 29 is painted bright blue and the golden paintings set against the walls simply beam against the natural sunlight. This was one of the original living rooms of Christian IV. He lived in the castle beginning in 1596 when he became king at the young age of 19. The first half of his reign was more prosperous than the second half when he was plagued with the disastrous Danish 30 years war.

The large painting above the dresser is of the king himself and surrounding him are images of his children and wives. Christian IV actually had three wives throughout his lifetime. Perhaps looking at his portrait you can decide for yourself if it was his looks or his wealth that drew all these ladies to him.

Room 30

Stepping into Room 30 feels like entering a more regal part of the castle. This room is sumptuously decorated. The painting on the wall depicts events from Christian IV’s life, and the decor inside this room is curated to reflect styles that would have been popularized during his lifetime. Along the wall is a HUGE painting of the coronation of Christian IV in 1596 made in 1887 by Otto Bache. 

The ceiling is covered in frescos. They stretch from end to end and are framed in giltwood carvings which make them even more elaborate and colourful. The frescos on the ceiling feature the story of the ancient legend of Gefion. Gefion was a fantastical goddess who drove an enormous plough driven by mythical oxen. The King of Sweden offered the goddess as much land as she was capable of ploughing in one day and one night in exchange for cultivating the island of Zealand out of Sweden. Here you can see her along with her great oxen.

Nikolaus Siebenhaar

In the corner of the room, behind a beautifully panelled set of windows, is an old astronomical clock from 1644. The clock was made by Nikolaus Siebenhaar from gold plated copper on a carved wooden base. The clock was called a tellurium. The tellurium and shows the time, date, moon phase and the position of the constellations. All of which were of great importance for astronomy and astrology which influenced the king’s decisions during this time.

Room 31

Room 31 is the Leonora Christina living room. The entire room is covered floor to ceiling in dark wood panelling. The room was inspired by the amazing works of Tycho Brahe and was given an astronomical theme. The ceiling is the most impressive feature covered in a painting of the zodiac symbols as they appear in their spacial constellations.

The large painting on the wall of a man and woman with a few small dogs at their feet is Princess Leonora Christina and her husband Corfitz Ulfeldt. Leonora’s husband committed treason against the king, Leonora’s brother. Leonora herself was sent to prison by her brother for her aid in the attempted plot.

Leonora was imprisoned in the Blue Tower in Copenhagen for 22 years. When she was finally released from captivity, she wrote a series of poems on an altar cloth about her life in prison, the true nature of royal life and all the scandals she was privy to while living in the castle—basically creating the first “exposed” article of all time. You can still see this piece of history on display here today.

Room 32

A collection of minature portraits occupies the corner tower room on this floor. These adorable cameos and tiny portraits were often worn by members of the court to show their allegiance to individual members of the royal family. This was of particular significance if one royal was thought to be attempting to oust the next. And if you wanted to show your support of one royal over another casually, this was a subtle way of doing it.

Room 34

From the minature portrait room, head back to room 30 and head upstairs to Room 34. This hallway leads you through to the second floor of the castle. The walls of the hallways here are littered in paintings. The most impressive of which is the ‘Storm of Copenhagen in 1659‘ by F.C Lund. It features the night that Copenhagen was attacked by the Swedes. As the siege wore on, one of the most famous quotes from the king’s as he defended the city was “I will die in my nest“. The Swedes were defeated and suffered over 500 deaths whereas the Danes managed to defend their city fiercely and only lost 14 brave men.

Room 35

Walking through these long hallways, turn into the grand bedroom of Frederik III in Room 35. The furniture in this room is all from the 1600s during the reign of Frederik III. Take special care to study the four-poster bed in the middle of the room. It’s incredible to see how small these beds were despite being for the absolute monarchs of the time. If you look closely at the crushed red velvet bedding, you’ll see how the head of the bed is raised slightly, since it was the custom at the time to sleep with your head above your body. The bedposts are giving particular attention with carvings of kings and queens as well as mythical creatures inlaid into the wood.

This room features the most amazing wood carvings. The ceiling itself is absolutely covered in carved panels. The same strange blossoming rosettes from the oratory can be seen here paired with brightly painted circular panels.

Room 36

Room 36 features more objects from the time of King Frederick III and Queen Sofia. The style of architecture and decor inside is of the baroque style. It is lavish and bordering on pompous. The furniture throughout the room is all exquisitely created from Germany, the Netherlands and France as the Danes. The reason the furniture was not locally made was that during the reign of Frederick III, trading across Europe had started to open up making the exchange of goods and materials more popular and fashionable. “Shop local” wasn’t nearly the trend in the 1600s. The furniture is even inlaid with pieces of ebony and ivory, a way of showing off wealth in every inch of the castle.

Along the walls in this room are portraits of the men who supported and aided the king in the 1600s. There were both noblemen and academics who helped lead the realm into glory.

On the ceiling of the room is a grandiose painting of Sol. Sol is the Nordic sun goddess who travels through the sky in a chariot pulled by two great horses. Sol is responsible for imparting everlasting life and is thought to have created the spark of life on earth.

The Angel’s Room

Room 37 is also called the Angel’s Room and walking in, there is no doubt as to why. It feels truly otherworldly. When Frederick III died, queen Sofia continued to live here in her widowhood. She took it upon herself to pour her grief into the decoration of the castle. She never stopped adding decorations and embellishments until her own death. This room was badly damaged in the fire but was restored to its former glory in 1859.

The Angel’s Room was often used for both huge banquets and small family dinners. Displayed in the centre of the room is a model of the dining table complete with plastic moulds of the meals and foods which the court and royal family would have eaten in the 17th century.

Great Ceiling

The great ceiling is painted with motifs inspired by the Doge’s Palace in Venice. The paintings in the centre are of King Frederick III on the throne surrounded by the four pillars of the Danish kingdom; the nobility, the clergy, the citizens and the peasantry. In the other paintings, are allegories of war and peace.

The room display two huge paintings of two of the most important events in Fredericks III’s reign. One of the paintings features the moment he inherited Copenhagen’s Royal Palace. After the Carl Gustav wars, Frederik III had a momentous town meeting in Copenhagen to solve the financial problems the country was facing after the war. The result of this meeting was the creation of absolute monarchy and the hereditary kingdom of Denmark.

Nyborg Fjord

The second painting features the naval commander Peder Bredal when he freed his frozen vessels out of Nyborg Fjord. The painting was made by Carl Neumann in 1883. Johan Carl Neumann was one of the most famous Danish marine painters. He had a way of capturing those moments at sea which helped shape the nation. If Bredal would not have been able to free his ships from the ice, the soldiers would have been both lost at sea during the tough winter and they would not have been able to join the forces on land to defend their kingdom.

A small set of stairs leads you from this room into the Great Hall. On either side of the archway leading up to the Great Hall are a set of winged creatures, beckoning you inside.

The Great Hall

The Great Hall was built for King Christian IV but was destroyed in the great fire. Since this room was such a showstopper there was a plethora of paintings and drawings done of the space used to faithfully recreate it. King Christian ruled Denmark from 1588 to 1648. His 59-year reign is the longest of Danish and of Scandinavian monarchs. Despite the wealth displayed in this room, during his reign, he instigated various wars that almost bankrupted the country.

This fairytale-inspired room was used for balls throughout Christians’ reign. The room is set directly above the Chapel and has the same dimensions as it as well. The Hall is also known as the ‘Hall of Knights‘ as the king would often host galas for members of his royal order here.

Great Hall Fireplace

On the side of the room is what looks like an ebony coloured canopy but is actually the great black marble fireplace. The actual fireplace is hidden behind a set of tapestries as it helps keeps the cold out. Inlaid on the black marble are beautiful scenes made from panels of pure silver. I can only imagine how gorgeous the silver would have looked in the light of the fire.

When I visited the castle, there were very few people in the palace. But as I wandered around the empty hall, a small group of school children came inside and began to dance in the huge empty room. They were so sweet and made me imagine what this room might have looked like filled with courtly men and women in their finery, dancing the night away. The rich marble floor beneath their feet glimmering under the chandeliers and their laughter brought the room to life!

From looking down at the floor, take your eyes upwards to the great ceiling carvings. The ceiling was recreated based on artists’ sketches before the fire. The ceiling looks like a treasure chest, piled high with golden coins and brightly coloured jewels.

Every inch, every centimetre of the ceiling is embellished in carvings and paintings. Angels flit about among orange trees, crowned rosettes, and beautiful swirling fillagree. Scenes set into the ceiling represented the various crafts of the Danish people, such as the paper mill, the printing press, and even the watchmaker. Surrounding these scenes are allegories of God’s attributes. A balance between the godly and the earthly delights.

Great Hall Tapestries

One of the most important pieces of art in the hall are woven tapestries. The tapestries depict the life of Christian IV and are copies of original tapestries found outside the castle, having been saved from the fires. The tapestries were made specifically for the museum to restore the look of the Great Hall.

Facing in on the hall are portraits of the members of the House of Glücksburg. The house of Glücksburg has been the Danish Royal Household since Christian IX in 1863. The current reigning queen, Margaret, is from their dynasty and keeps her family’s legacy alive today.

At the front of the room, under the most enormous golden chandelier, is the throne and king’s table. The throne is covered by a rich red velvet canopy with golden embroidery depicting Christian IX’s Danish monogram.

Gothic Globe Room

From the Great Hall, head back into the Angels Room and towards Room 39, which is located in the corner tower. This room also called the Gottorpske Himmelglobus or Gothic Globes room. The golden globe in the centre of the room was made for Frederik III. This celestial globe depicts the world view of Nicolaus Copernicus. Nicolaus Copernicus was a Renaissance-era mathematician and astronomer, who formulated a model of the universe that placed the Sun rather than Earth in the center o the universe. The entire piece took over three years to be completed in 1657.

Astronomical Designs

The sky is represented around the exterior and inside the sphere are tiny gold balls which are the earth and, the moon. The other planets are also represented by smaller silver balls inside. The sun is in the centre of all of this, represented by a large brass ball. Around the exterior of the sphere are these beautiful depictions of the zodiac symbols surrounded by astronomical constellations. But the piece is not just an art exhibit, each of the objects moves based on the 24-hour clock. The room also features portraits of court mathematicians, astronomers, librarians and the heads of the Art Chambers.

While the ceiling here is pure white, the stucco designs were made to reflect the presence of the celestial globe and also feature images of the zodiac symbols.

Room 40

Head back to Room 36 and continue from here to Room 40. In this room was have items from Christian V’s reign from 1670 to 1699. Christian V was the first king who was anointed in the palace. In the center of the room is a book with the page opened to the King’s Act of 1665 which was the legal basis upon which the Danish Monarchy was formed.

On the left side of the wall is a large portrait featuring Christian V in his fancy dress. Seeing his face both here and throughout the castle always makes me feel like he’s still watching over the palace even hundreds of years after his death.

This room also has one of the best view of the castle layout and baroque gardens outside.

Room 41

Room 41 features statesmen and artists from Christian V’s reign. Among them were the naval hero Niels Juel, baroque poet Thomas Kingo and merchant turned chancellor, Peder Schumacher.

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Room 42

Room 42 marks the transition between the 1600s and the 1700s. This period was marked by the Baroque style. Baroque and Rococo are my two favourite stylistic periods as they are synonymous with ostentatiousness and grandeur. Instead of wallpaper decorating the walls, they were covered in huge woven tapestries. These tapestries depicted scenes of Alexander the Great entering Babylon and the battle of the Persian kings. They were fantastical depictions of the greatest rulers from history. The tapestries were made in Louis XIV’s factory in Paris and were made by the very best weavers around the world.

The beautifully carved and upholstered canopy bed was made in Paris around 1724. They called this style of bed a “parade bed”. It was made for Christian V when he married Christine Catherine von Holstein in 1724. You can see their monograms, CDS and CCH, carved into the bedframe. My very favourite part of this bed is the silver fireguard which sits in front of the bedroom to protect it from the sparks of the fireplace. It’s shaped into a heart and feels like it warms the room, even without a fire.

Room 43

Room 43 is centred around the large painting of King Frederick IV. Frederick IV reigned from 1699 to 1730. Frederick didn’t have the best time ruling the kingdom. During his reign, Copenhagen was struck with both the great plague of 1711 and the great fire of 1728, which destroyed most of the capital. Wanting to escape Copenhagen, Frederick spent much of his time building onto Frederickborg Palace. While Frederick wasn’t much of an academic, he loved art and architecture and it is perhaps for this reason that the castle became so magnificent. Chinese imports were becoming all the rage in this time and many of these oriental objects can be seen in this room.

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Room 44

Head into the corner tower where you’ll find room 44. Here you’ll find portraits of a number of prominent figures of Frederik’s IV’s reign. But what is most interesting to study in this room is the golden leather wallpaper which has been applied to the walls. This leather wallpaper appears throughout the castle but is most notable here both for its size and grandeur.

Room 46 – The Princess Wing

A long pastel pink hallway runs down this side of the castle, with various rooms extending off of it. This area of the castle is called the ‘Princess Wing‘. Most of the objects and paintings in this area are from the reign of Frederik IV and Christian VI from the first half of the 18th century. The Rococo style began in France in the 1730s as a reaction against the more formal and geometric Style of Louis XIV. Rococo dressers line the hallway, marked by their curves and sculptural moulding.

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Room 47

The pale blue room decorated with a myriad of the golden frames is from the time of Christian VI who ruled from 1730 to 1746. Various paintings in this room feature Queen Sofia Magdalene and her children.

In addition to the series of paintings, there are a set of chairs in here which are original from the court of Christian VI. There is also a cupboard containing an original Meissen porcelain collection. Meissen porcelain was one of the most popular items to show off your status at the time. Take note of the punch bowl in the shape of a bishop’s hat made in Copenhagen.

Room 48

Continue along through the rooms and head into Room 48. This light rose coloured room contains more objects from the 18th century. Two portraits of Frederick V by C.G. Pilo cover the walls. Pilo was responsible for most of the rococo designs throughout the castle during this period. He was the king’s personal stylist and interior decorator.

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The furniture in here is much lighter than in previous generations. Patterns are no less opulent but the subtle tones make it feel less busy. There is definitely an air of elegance here over opulence here.

Room 50

Room 50 contains a portrait of a rather turbulent figure in the royal household. During Christian VII‘s reign his wife was having an affair with a man named Struensee. Struensee was the king’s doctor, in addition to being the lover of the queen. Struensee used his influence over the king to control the kingdom as he saw fit. Finally, when the King discovered this treachery he had the doctor executed for crimes against his majesty. His portrait still hangs in the castle, perhaps as a reminder to those who might attempt to do the same.

Room 52

Room 52 features dignified furniture in the style of Louis XVI. The canopy sofa with a gold plate actually pulls out to be a double bed. Proves how the castle was starting to modernize with the times. The tableware in here is another gorgeous example of the style of Rococo flatware with botanical imagery all over it which was a popular icon on the style.

Room 54

Exiting back into the hallway, you’ll see that the walls have changed colours from the pastel blush pink, to mustard yellow. Along the walls are vintage pieces of furniture from the 1800s. But the most impressive part of this corridor is the gold plated ceiling. Inlaid with images of roman leaders, they look almost like giant coins glued onto the ceiling.

Room 55

Room 55 is one of the plainer coloured rooms but the sheer number of paintings on the wall makes it no less interesting. On the wall opposite window, are two grand pictures of the Battle of Copenhagen in 1801, depicting the vanquished Danish fleet. Despite this great military loss, the early 1800s were a boom time for the Danes. It was a golden age for art, literature, and science. Portraits on the wall reflect the various men and some women who helped shape this golden age. In the room is a set of Danish Imperial living room furniture, covered in rich red leather, which belonged to the household of Frederick VI.

Room 57, the Gable Room

The brightly painted red room in the back of the Princess Wing is called the Gable Room. This room is full of portraits of poets and artists from the Danish Golden Age. You’ll find pictures of actress Johanne Luise Heiberg, poet H.C. Andersen, and W. Marstrand. This change in who is portrayed in castle portraits, from the royals to portraits of celebrities, shows the shift in power dynamics during this time. The painting of actress Johanne Luise Heiberg was commissioned by her husband Johan Ludvig Heiberg. It was painted in the middle of the crisis that would lead to their eventual breakup. Her stern face clearly reflects her cross feeling about sitting for the portrait with a man she no longer was the biggest fan of.

The chandelier in the center of the room is one of the most impressive designs, with large round orbs hanging from it, it looks almost like a mythical fruit tree. It’s a big departure from the traditional chandelier designs throughout the rest of the castle and is another example of the change in both power and design during this era.

Room 58

In the last room, Room 58, you can visit a bust of the great linguist Rasmus Kristian Rask. Rask travelled the world studying Icelandic grammar and Oriental languages and is considered one of the founders of modern linguistics. Beside the statue of Rask is a stately telescope design from the mid-1800s. It was once used by Johan Ludvig Heiberg when he visited the palace.

Room 61

Take the stairs down to Room 61 back on the 1st floor. This room is commanded by a huge painting of the Constitutional Assembly from October 1484. This is when the king gave up his monarchical powers and when the first democratic election in Denmark took place. In this painting, you can see famous politicians from Danish history.

The ceiling in this room is once more sumptuously decorated with wood carvings and paintings of naval battles inlaid in the center.

Room 63

Room 63 is dedicated to the Three Year War which raged from 1848-1850. Denmark was fighting against the Germans, who had taken their land to the south. Two large paintings on the wall are of the greatest heroes of this war which lead Denmark to victory.

The ceiling styles in this era are definitely something to behold, as they appear to be an art gallery all unto themselves.

Room 64

Room 64 was actually a part of the museum created for not crown royalty, but for the great poet Adam Oehlenschlager. On the 100th anniversary of his death, the museum collected objects and paintings of the great Nordic poet and dedicated this room to his memory.

Room 65

Room 65 features images from the war of 1864. Prussia and Austria both attacked Denmark during this time. The war ended only when Denmark agreed to hand over parts of their land to Austria but managed to hold onto the small island of Ærø, which remained Danish. Ærø is my favourite spot in Denmark so I can see why that place would have been so important for them to hold onto.

The ceiling in this room features a large central painting depicting Jupiter and Juno. Juno and Jupiter are husband and wife and considered to be the King and Queen of the gods. They are often seen in Royal residences, as the royals are thought to be their earthly counterparts. Juno is the goddess of marriage, and childbirth and Jupiter was the god of the sky and thunder.

Room 66

This room is dedicated to the businessmen of the 19th century who helped move the Danish economy along. Agriculture, the dairy industry, shipyards, railways and breweries were booming and the various men in this room had a large part in their success.

Room 67

In this room, we see images of the Glucksborg families once more. Upon the death of Frederick VII in 1863, the throne passed to Christian IX who was a member of the Glucksborg family, and this was when their reign would commence. The furniture in this room is the most modern, all coming from the 19th and 20th centuries.

Room 68

The last room to study before heading outside is Room 68, which is dedicated to the memory of Brygger Jacobsen, who founded the museum which is now Fredericksborg Palace. Brygger Jacobsen, continued the legacy of his father’s brewer, Carlsberg Brewery, which is still to this day one of the most popular beers not only in Denmark but around the world.

Mønttårn tower

After you’ve finished touring the castle, head outside, around the castle over towards the baroque gardens. To enter the gardens you’ll enter through the Mønttårn tower, which contains the Audience we saw inside. This part of the castle was built in 1616 in high-renaissance style.

Study the swinging gables and gorgeous bay windows. The exterior is decorated in sculptures of Venus and Mars and musicians.

Baroque Gardens

Walk underneath the archway and across the stone bridge towards the Baroque gardens. The baroque gardens which surround the castle are designed in the typical style of the age. It was created by architect J. C. Krieger in 1725. Baroque gardens during this time were designed in a symmetrical pattern and used hedges and bushes to create an outer structure.

Within the lower portion of the gardens, you’ll find the hedges are carved into unique patterns which form of the Royal monograms. These monograms are of Frederik IV, Frederik V, Christian VI and Margrethe II. These are all the monarchs who ruled within the walls of this castle.

Toward the far end of the garden, off to the left is a series of small lakes, a bathhouse and an English style garden. This is also sometimes called the Romantic garden as it presents the uncurated and raw beauty of nature in contrast to the highly manicured and planned structure of the baroque garden.

The Little Ferry

After finishing wandering the incredible gardens, head over to the ferry dock to catch a ride around the castle lake. The ferry captains are the most charming old men and their cheerful banter was one of the best parts of the journey on the ferry.

The trip across the lake takes 30 minutes and costs DKK 30 ($4.50 USD) for adults and DKK 10 ($1.50 USD) for children. The last ferry departs the castle at 5 pm in the summer and 4 pm in the autumn so be sure to catch it before then. In the wintertime, the ferry is closed since the lake often freezes over.

Boating away from the castle, you have the most incredible view of the entire palace from on the water. The peaceful lull of the waves and the picturesque red brick against the bright blue sky is almost so beautiful its hard to imagine that this place is real and not just a fairytale.

This brings us to the end of our tour! The ferry boat will let you off on the other side of the lake, where you can wander around the village or head back to the train station to catch the train back to Copenhagen. While watching, the countryside fade back into the city, think back to all the wondrous things we saw at the Palace. What was your favourite room or treasure you discovered? Let me know if you’ve ever visited Frederiskborg Castle or what you’re most looking forward to seeing on your first visit!

Happy Travel Adventurers

The post Discover Denmark’s Amazing Hidden Gem: A Guide to Frederiksborg Castle, the Best Day Trip from Copenhagen first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

As someone who hates the cold, I was worried the chilly weather would keep me from seeing everything. But what surprised me most was that with proper preparations, I actually enjoyed it. The look of the icy water, snow-topped hillsides and twinkling Christmas lights against the midnight blue sky. I found my time there in the winter, more enjoyable than in the summer! Maybe just because it was so different. There are a myriad of reasons to travel during the wintertime to these snowy destinations. Hopefully, this list inspires you to get out and enjoy the world, north of the equator in the winter months.

Table Of Contents

1. #1 Embrace "hygge"
2. #2 Deals on Airfare!
3. #3 Try out the Slopes
4. #4 Christmas Markets!
5. #5 Winter Comfort Food
6. #6 Coffee Culture
7. #7 Museums are the Perfect Escape from the Cold
8. #8 See the Northern Lights
9. #9 Staying inside an Ice Hotel
10. #10 Warm up in a Sauna
11. Here are some TIPS to ensure you have the most fantastic winter vacation!

#1 Embrace “hygge”

Hygge (pronounced “hoo-ga”) is a Danish and Norwegian word for a mood of coziness. It conveys the feeling of wellness and contentment. Hygge is so crucial to the people of Scandinavia that it is considered “a defining feature of our cultural identity,” according to Meik Wiking, the CEO of the Happiness Research Institute. These countries who practice hygge means that everywhere you go; you’ll find burning candles, cozy fireplaces, delicious hot coffee or chocolate and rich homemade sweets. Hygge makes every interior you find one of the most welcoming and warm places in the world!

But hygge is not just about hybernating. It is also about enjoying long walks outside. Despite the cold weather, you’ll find parks decked out in decorations, beautiful skating rinks and a feeling of a country that embraces the winter. Welcome the spirit of hygge into your heart during this season, and you’re bound to have a wonderful time.

#2 Deals on Airfare!

Winter is by far the cheapest season for travel in Europe. From early December to about mid-March, you’ll find flights around Europe super inexpensive. This time of year people are usually looking to escape to warm-weather destinations. Keep in mind you should always be booking these trips three months in advance as that is when the flight prices are usually the cheapest, outside of any last-minute sales. Travel during the week of Christmas is at its peak since families commute home during this time, so avoid going around those days if possible. If you’re worried about not being able to see Christmas Markets because the Christmas week is expensive to travel, fear not! Christmas Market opens as early as the last week of November.

#3 Try out the Slopes

If you’re someone who loves to hit the slopes, winter isn’t a downer but instead your favourite season! Just a short train ride into the countryside you’ll find ski resorts like Hemsedal, Riksgransen, Are Duved, Ruka, Vemdalen and Lillehammer. They are easily accessible from any major city in Scandinavia. If you don’t want to stay at the resort, the towns around these ski hills are full of alternative options for every budget. Also, if skiing isn’t your bag, many of these resorts also have toboggan or snow tubing hills. This allows you to enjoy the scenery and mountain top hot chocolates without needing an ounce of skill!

#4 Christmas Markets!

There is just something about a European Christmas market that gives me all those warm and fuzzy feelings. The twinkle lights on the trees, the smell of mulled wine floating through the air and freshly baked breads ready to warm your hands. If you’re a couple, there is something truly romantic about an evening stroll under the lights of the market. Most of the big cities have multiple Christmas Markets you can visit while you’re there. These places are not only beautiful but also great spots where you can find traditional handicrafts. You can also sample some of their famous Christmas foods.

If you’re looking for something outside the big cities, visit the Christmas Market in Lapland, which is the home of Santa Claus! As such, this town goes all out at Christmas time. Tivoli Park in Copenhagen is transformed during the holiday season into a real-life fairytale book. They even perform the traditional Christmas ballet The Nutcracker on stage inside the park, which makes for the ideal Christmas evening.

#5 Winter Comfort Food

Scandinavian foods are meant to be enjoyed in the winter. This is a country that knows how to make a warm and cozy meal. Almost all of their food is comfort food. Smørrebrød, rye bread, meatballs, stewed reindeer, pancakes and waffles are all the best things to enjoy in the winter. The portions are huge, as are the flavours. After you’re finished eating you’ll be ready to take on a long walk in the winter cold, without feeling a thing as you’ll be warmed from the inside out!

#6 Coffee Culture

Did you know that Scandinavia is at the top of the list of the most coffee-consuming countries? There is a good reason for this aside from just that their coffee is delicious. Coffee in Scandinavia is more than just a to-go cup you grab alone on your way to work. Having coffee is a chance to get away from the daily grind and catch up with friends. In Sweden, they call this Fika. Fika in Swedish means “to have a cup of coffee and a snack with a friend.” It’s absolutely built into the fabric of their daily life. They embrace the idea of bettering relationships while enjoying something scrumptious.

While other Scandinavian countries don’t have that words, the concept still remains. The prevalence of this coffee culture means there is an abundance of fantastic coffee shops to stop into on your trip to warm up while you enjoy the city. Take this time to step back for a minute, stop rushing around, enjoy the moment and reflect on your adventures.

#7 Museums are the Perfect Escape from the Cold

If you’re feeling particularly chilly, museums and art galleries are the best places to pop into to escape the cold. And what’s more, in Scandinavia, most state-run museums are free of charge to enter. Unfortunately, in countries like Denmark, recent government cuts have changed these policies. However, many of those museums are still open on certain days of the week for free. In Sweden, there are over 15 different museums and galleries which you can still enter free of charge everyday of the week! They make the perfect place to hide away from the cold without worrying too much about your budget.

I went to a myriad of different museums, some of which I didn’t even know anything about before I went. Still, since they were free, I didn’t have anything to lose. I could wander around and look at what interested me and simply head out once I finished. There was no pressure to make a whole day out of it since I didn’t pay a huge admission fee, which would have made me feel more inclined to “make it worth it.” It was the ideal place to get warm and see something exciting and new while I was at it.

#8 See the Northern Lights

Scandinavia is by far the best place to see the Aurora Borealis. The high latitude in Finland, Sweden and Norway makes these countries the best place for spotting those iconic green and blue waves in the sky. And winter (September to March) is the only time you can reliably spot them! Alta in Norway is probably the most famous city to travel to see them but other popular destinations are Abisko National Park and Porjus in Sweden, Senja in Norway and many cities in Finnish Lapland. Just remember you need to go far north for this, don’t think your visit to Oslo will allow you to see the lights!

#9 Staying inside an Ice Hotel

Ice hotels are one of the trendiest new things to come out of winters in Scandinavia! These luxury creations are somewhat of a novelty but combine cozy, fireplace lit interiors with icy architecture. The Icehotel in Jukkasjärvi Sweden was the first hotel in the world to be built out of ice. Every springtime, the ice melts, and come the next winter, a new design is created to form a brand new looking hotel. So every year, there is something unique to experience. Despite being at least -10°, you’ll be nice and cozy with the special thermal PJs, and cold weather insulated sleeping bag you’re given. These will keep you snug all night long while enjoying the once-in-a-lifetime views.

There are plenty of other Ice hotels around Scandinavia from The Lapland Hotel’s Snow Village in Finland to The Sorrisniva Igloo Hotel in Alta Norway. All of these locations also have on-site activities like dog-sledding, an ice bar or ice church and even snow sculptures to see in ice galleries. It’s truly something you just can’t experience anywhere, or anytime other than in the winter in Scandinavia!

#10 Warm up in a Sauna

All over Scandinavia, you’ll find strangers getting together, in a small, hot spaces to indulge in sauna . Saunas originated in Finland, and the word “sauna” comes from the Finnish word for bathhouse. Pits dug into the ground were the first saunas. Stones were added atop a burning fire to fit the pit. Water was then thrown on top of the rocks to produce steam. There have been sauna pits discovered as far back as 4000 B.C.E in Finland. It is a commonly shared belief in the Nordic countries that saunas relax muscles, soothe pain, releases endorphins, increases blood circulation, flush toxins, relieve stress, help fight illness, cleanse the skin, burn calories and also provides a social space to enjoy with friends. It’s basically thought to be a cure-all for everything.

While there are some small differences between sauna culture in the different Scandinavian countries, overall, the experience is the same. While some same-sex saunas are clothing optional, in most big cities, you can find tourist-friendly options where bathing suits are worn. This is great if you feel like you might be uncomfortable being naked around strangers. But once you take the plunge, the feeling of freedom is pretty unparalleled.

Cold Dips

Speaking of taking the plunge, some saunas also offers a dip into cold, almost freezing water. This could be just a cold bath or some spots located near bodies of water offer access right into the frozen sea. The dramatic plunge into cold water from the hot sauna is thought to increase the blood flow in the body and help increase all those other benefits we spoke of before. While some might be scared to try it, I vote to give it a go. It sure might feel unpleasant at first, but man does it wake your body up in a way that is indescribable and entirely worth it!

Here are some TIPS to ensure you have the most fantastic winter vacation!

Dress for Success

Making sure you bring the right clothing is key to ensuring you are in the right mood throughout the day. There is nothing worse than being freezing cold to ruin a perfectly lovely experience. I was terrified of this exact scenario when I was planning for my trip, so I made sure to buy warm thermals to wear to help keep that heat in. In addition to this, I bought a few 100% wool sweaters, which were perfect for keeping the heat in without overheating and making me sweat. Wool sweaters can be purchased brand new online, but also you can find them at your local thrift shop for a 10th of the price of a new one! I found some with the most amazing designs, so don’t be afraid to go digging as you might find something amazing!

Hours are odd

Although I disagree with Rick Steves about not visiting Scandinavia during the Winter, I love this quote from him, “Scandinavia’s metabolism slows down like a hibernating bear’s, and many sights and accommodations are open on a limited schedule (especially in remote fjord towns).” This is something to be aware of. Outside of the official government holidays around Christmas, I never found anything to be altogether closed. But various attractions did run on shorter winter hours. Definitely nothing to cancel your trip over just something to be aware of and plan around.

Christmas Holidays

If you’re planning on staying over the Christmas Holidays, December 24th and 25th specifically, you will want to check to see what’s open on those particular days. While I heard EVERYTHING would be closed in Sweden on Christmas day, I actually found a few museums which were still open and holding special events. I also managed to find some once a year community events to take part in while I was there that made me feel like celebrating with a huge group of new friends. So many people might tell you there will be nothing to do, but trust me, I found a bunch of things to do, you just need to dig a little bit. If you know a particular museum will be open on those government holidays, make note of that and save that activity for those days when lots of other things might be closed.

Christmas Day

I also found that attending a church service on Christmas Day was a great experience. There were plenty of services which were non-denominational if you want to enjoy the spirit of the holiday but might not identify with a particular denomination. While there are some restaurants still open on these days, I did find that the majority were closed so you might want to hit up a grocery store on the 23rd to grab some easy to make meals. If you don’t have a kitchen, you can always buy cheese and meats, which you can make into an in-hotel-room charcuterie dinner. A lot of fast food restaurants remain open on those holidays as well so that’s always a last-ditch option.

Daylight is Precious

In Scandinavia, there are only a few hours of “daylight” in the winter, and depending on how far north you’re going, this could be as short as 4 hours of light with 20 hours of darkness. While the locals might find this darkness exhausting, I actually found the long hours of darkness exciting since it wasn’t something we experience in North America. But if you’re planning on taking any photos which require the light, such as any wide cityscape shots, just be sure to plan your schedule accordingly. I always headed out early in the day to take my pictures of the city and then scheduled my indoor activities, which didn’t require sunlight, for the afternoon into the early evening.

Be Cautious with Winter Air Travel

I had a near-disastrous flight to Sweden this winter. Luckily for me, everything worked out by some Christmas miracle, but I’m sure I’m not always going to be that lucky. Flying during the winter means weather might impact you more than other times of the year. To avoid as much stress as possible, be sure to book a direct flight if at all possible. This means should your outbound flight be delayed, you won’t need to worry about missing a connection. If you can’t book direct, ensure the layover between your two flights isn’t too tight. I BARELY made my connecting flight and felt so silly, not ensuring I had more time to account for bad weather. Yes, this might mean not getting to your destination as fast as possible, but trust me, it is worth it for the peace of mind. 

Let me know if you’ve ever travelled to somewhere cold in the winter and how you enjoyed your experience. Or comment to let me know what’s holding you back from a snowy adventure in the north!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post 10 Reasons Why You Need to Take a Winter Vacation to Scandinavia first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

You’ll visit not only her famous residence, Casa Azul, but also explore a multitude of other significant places. These spots were essential in the formation of her identity and connection to her Mexican heritage. If this is your first time visiting Mexico City, this tour is an excellent method of discovery. Many of her famous locations are located in the heart of neighbourhoods with a variety of other popular attractions.

Tour Itinerary

This tour is divided up into four different sections, each one focusing on a particular area of Mexico City. While it might not be the most chronological journey, it allows you to explore different neighbourhoods around Mexico city cohesively. While a chronological life tour would be better in terms of following her journey, it requires bouncing all over the city. Especially for those who are on a tight schedule, that’s not the best use of your time.

The three different neighbourhoods are the Coyoacán, Historic City Centre, and Xochimilco’t. You can easily add these spots to your existing itinerary. I would advise to only tackle one neighbourhood at a time. Don’t try to fit it all in one go. The last section is a list of museums. These museums will help you get a deeper understanding of Mexican culture, insights about Frida, and art in Mexico. Since these places were not locations Frida really visited they are not part of the essential tour. Although they do add a lot of contextual information if you’re interested in that kind of thing.

Below is a map of the entire walking tour. I have broken up the neighbourhoods into separate maps for easy-to-follow directions.

Frida Kahlo in Coyoacan

1. Tour Itinerary
2. Frida Kahlo Museum
3. Coyoacan Market
4. The Casa de Cortes, Casa Municipal
5. Cantina La Guadalupana
6. Parroquia San Juan Bautista
7. Frida Kahlo Park
8. La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura
9. Jardín Centenario
10. Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
11. Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera's House-Studio
12. Former College of San Ildefonso
13. Biblioteca Pública 
14. Secretaría De Educación Pública
15. Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral
16. The Palacio Nacional
17. Avenue 5 de Mayo
18. Garibaldi Square
19. Palacio de Bellas Artes
20. Alameda Central
21. Museo Mural Diego Rivera
22. La Ciudadela
23. Xochimilco Canals
24. Museo Dolores Olmedo
25. Templo Mayor Museum
26. Museum of Modern Art
27. Museo Nacional de Antropología
28. Mexican Art Gallery | GAM
29. Museo Franz Mayer
30. Museo Anahuacalli

Frida Kahlo Museum

La Casa Azul or “the blue house“, located on Londres Street in Coyoacán once belonged to Frida’s father, Guillermo Kahlo. It was here where she was born. She grew up inside these walls. It was the place where she suffered from illness but also flourished as an artist. Eventually, Frida bought the house from her parents and lived with her husband, Diego. They got divorced and remarried all within these blue walls. And ultimately, it was the place where she would pass away. It was her sanctuary but also her cage. She spent more years inside these walls than perhaps anywhere else in the world. As such, it is one of the most intimate looks into her life that you can experience.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art. They collected pre-Hispanic artifacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more which is still on display. You feel a deep connection with Frida by literally walking in her footsteps. You get to see her inner sanctum and looking at the precious treasures she collected, which represented her passions, her wishes and her dreams. To learn more about the Casa Azul take my self guided tour!

Coyoacan Market

South of Frida’s house is the Coyoacán Market. This market has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. Both Frida and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul. Frida loved to cook, and there are countless recipe books out there that details her favourite recipes. At one time, she was quoted as saying,

“We could not have a child, and I cried inconsolably, but I distracted myself by cooking, dusting the house, sometimes by painting…”

Frida’s Shopping List

Frida would come to these brightly coloured corners of the marketplace to shop for her favourite ingredients, chat with her local shopkeepers and wander around to get inspired for her next creation. This marketplace feels a little more laid back and less modern than some of the ones in the inner city. Exploring it feels like more of an authentic experience to the one Frida would have had herself. Make sure you ask about the mole paste they sell here. Mole was one of Frida’s favourite things to cook and eat, and there are countless varieties here you can buy and taste! See which one if your favourite and bring some of the powdered version home with you to make in your own kitchen!

The Casa de Cortes, Casa Municipal

The Casa de Cortes, on the north side, of the Plaza Hidalgo was where the seat of government was held for many years. And it was here that Frida and Diego were married. Frida’s parents were not a fan of Diego…to say the least. Diego had already been married twice, and his reputation as an unfaithful husband wasn’t a big secret around town. He was also 21 years older than 22-year-old Frida. Her parents protested and begged Diego not to marry her, but the love birds could not be swayed. Her parents referred to the union as a “marriage between an elephant and a dove” since Diego was over 300 pounds, and due to her illnesses, Frida was only a petite 98 pounds.

Frida and Diego’s Marriage

The two were married on August 21st, 1929. Their marriage in city hall was presided by the mayor of Coyaocan, and their witnesses were a hairdresser and homeopathic doctor. Frida wore only a long skirt and simple blouse with a rebozo (shawl) wrapped around her shoulder. She would often wear these in the same way that female revolutionaries wore them during the 1910 revolution when women used the scarves to smuggle guns past government checkpoints. Diego was dressed in a plain grey suit, accessorized with a Stetson hat and a Colt revolver. After their short ceremony, they retreated to their good friend Tina Modotti’s house where the raucous reception was held.

It was recorded that after the wedding, during their reception, Diego took the colt revolver and shot it off aimlessly in a drunken stupor. Frida was none too pleased at this childish behaviour, and it would be the first signs of trouble in paradise for the couple.

Cantina La Guadalupana

Just down the street from the Casa Municipal, you’ll find Frida’s old watering hole, Cantina La Guadalupana. Although the original cantina is now closed, you can still see the old signage out front marking the spot. The building is much unchanged from the days when you’d catch a glimpse of Frida’s richly coloured skirts in the window. The Cantina La Guadalupana was the couple’s bar of choice for drinking tequila under the dim lights and surrounded by bullfighting decor. Frida was quite the prolific drinker for her small size and other than tequila, she would love to drink pulque. Pulque is made from the fermented sap of the maguey plant, native to Mexico. It was a beverage which the ancients Aztecs invented and drinking it made her feel closer to those old gods.

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Parroquia San Juan Bautista

Across the park, stands the imposing shadow of the baroque church that Frida Kahlo attended while she was growing up, Parroquia San Juan Bautista. It is also called the Iglesia de Coyoacán as the church has become the central place of worship in Coyoacán. It was built between 1520 and 1552 and run by an old Dominican order. Over the years the church has changed its appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. But surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations.

The interior, however, is covered in baroque gilded decorations, and mindblowing ceiling frescos of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Frida would have come here as a child and prayed with her parents. You can only imagine how such a richly artistic place would have inspired young Frida’s mind.

Frida Kahlo Park

Seeing as the city is the place of her birth, it seems only right that Frida would have a park dedicated after her. Frida loved the outdoor, and although not everyone can afford to go into the Casa Azul’s garden daily, they can wake their way to Frida Kahlo Park to celebrate the great artistic legacy…or at the very least, walk their dog in a lovely setting. In the centre of the park, you’ll find two large, bronze sculptures of Frida and Diego. Frida is dressed in her classic Tehuana outfit, gazing over at Diego. This park has a very structured layout, the bushes around it perfectly pruned into geometric shapes, slightly resembling Aztec pyramids popping out in the background.

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La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura

Located on the east end of Coyoacán, is La Escuela de Pintura y Escultura. Frida began teaching here in 1942. She hoped that its close proximity to her house would mean she could easily commute to and from and continue to educate Mexico City’s artistic youth. She loved her students and teaching, but her leg was bothering her more and more and eventually, she couldn’t leave the house. Luckily, the students loved her as well, and the dedicated pupils would come to the Casa Azul, where Frida could continue to instruct them. She would always inspire her students to look to Mexican culture for inspiration, instead of being influenced by European trends. While Frida might not have taught here for a long time, the school grounds are a beautiful and inspiring place to explore.

Jardín Centenario

The Jardin del Centenario is the central greenspace in Coyoacan. It is marked by a gorgeous double archway which they call the ‘Arcadas Atrial’ or the ‘Arcos del Jardín del Centenario‘. The gardens were once part of the entrance to the old 16th century Parish Church of San Juan Bautista built during the colonial period. Stone pieces from the original building were woven onto either side of the archway. Take a closer look to see how decorative motifs from that period depict both European and indigenous influence.

This beautiful garden is also where you’ll find a fountain which contains a bronze sculpture of two coyotes, which refer to the borough’s name. The name Coyoacán comes from the Nahuatland word meaning “place of coyotes.” Today you’ll see the symbol of the coyote everywhere you look; on park benches, on street corners and even in flower gardens! On either side of the garden are lush Indian laurel trees which spread out to form a canopy over the walkway below.

Frida in the Park

This delightful park is where a place Frida would frequently come to stroll or celebrate during her life in Coyoacan. It was here where the city would hold parades, festivals and fairs. Diego Rivera’s daughters have written extensively about their time living with Diego and Frida in Coyoacán. They lived with them inside the Casa Azul for two years while they completed college. The Jardín CentenarioIn is featured heavily in their accounts as Frida loved to come there to ride carnival rides and march in parades on any day of festivity and would always bring Diego’s daughters with her. Although Frida could never have children herself, she mothered so many young people along the way, acting as a parental figure any time she got the chance.

Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles

The Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles is a cultural centre, free to enter and explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property. Just inside the entrance to the Casa is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple. The house has existed here since 1780, occupied by a variety of different families. It’s no stretch to imagine that the previous owners would have welcomed the famous couple into their garden for a visit or a dinner party from time to time.

Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s House-Studio

Farther west, just outside of Coyoacán in the neighbouring district of San Angel is Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s House-Studio. Frida and Diego had this building custom designed by their friend Juan O’Gorman. The studio was intended to be two separate buildings, connected by a bridge. A way of physically showing the differences between these two artists, who despite all odds, still manage to come together. Diego’s studio is painted off-white and rust-red. Simple, natural colours. Frida’s studio, on the other hand, is painted the same ethereal cobalt blue as her home in Coyoacán. Diego’s house features thin windows along the top of the walls. Frida’s features almost floor to ceiling windows, giving the interior space that indoor/outdoor feeling. The house is separated from the street by a perimeter fence which instead of being made from wood or wrought-iron, is made from stacking rows of tall cacti along the roadside.

Studio-House

The couple lived here from 1934 to 1939. In 1939, they got divorced, and Frida moved home to Casa Azul, leaving Diego to live full time, alone in the studio-house. Even after getting back together, only 9-months later, Frida and Diego kept the studio to use as more workspace. Today the interior of the studio features a lot of Diego Rivera’s work and decor, especially his collection of papier-mâché figures.

The Frida side of the house is pretty bare since most of her treasures moved over to the Casa Azul, but it is still interesting to view the architectural designs from inside. The best part of her studio to explore is her bathroom. It was in here that she was inspired to paint ‘What the Water Gave Me’ while staring down at her feet in the bathtub in one of her fits of depression. The very tub which is portrayed in the painting can be still seen today inside the studio. Frida also painted such iconic images as ‘The eye of the eye‘ and ‘The deceased Dimas’ while she lived at the studio-house.

Former College of San Ildefonso

We begin this part of the tour at the Former College of San Ildefonso. It seems very fitting to start the journey here since it was a place of so many firsts for Frida. This was where Frida first went to college in 1922. There she met some of her best friends, her first boyfriend and, most importantly, first met the love of her life; Diego Rivera. Frida’s father had the utmost confidence in his daughter.

Even after she had spent a good deal of her adolescence homeschooled, due to her polio, he still thought she was a genius. Her father decided to send her to this former Jesuit college, at much expense to the family. She was one of only 35 girls, out of 2000 students who went to the school. But she had always gotten along with boys almost more than she did with girls, so she flourished there. Frida would even be seen wearing men’s clothes to the college from time to time and embraced her more masculine side.

The Creation

At the same time, Frida was at school here, Diego Rivera has been commissioned to paint an enormous mural on the lecture room walls. The painting, called ‘The Creation‘ was Rivera’s first gigantic mural of this kind. It was commissioned by the Mexican government to educate the masses of people who couldn’t read but wanted to learn about history. The mural covers more than a thousand square feet and portrays mythological and religious motifs.

It was here when painting the mural that Frida first laid eyes on Diego. She would sneak in to watch him paint his nude models anytime she could. Diego, although married to Lupe Marin at the time, would frequently be found by Frida in the midst of making love to one of his models. She took it upon herself to even warn the artists if she saw his wife coming. Frida would mock and tease him as he worked, but he saw her as a charming little pest. She would go on and on about him to her friends, and despite their age difference, and would proclaim that one day, she would be his wife and have a child by him. Although the latter would never come to pass, who knew how right she would be about the rest.

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Biblioteca Pública 

Down the street from her college, we find the Biblioteca Pública where Frida would come to study. She would come here to meet up with her schoolmates the ‘Los Cachuchas‘. It was here they would discuss at length the politics of the day and plan their communist rallies. But the library was not just a place of learning for Frida. The library was also where she would spend hours falling in love with her first boyfriend, Alex Gómez Arias. In addition to Alex, she also met a gorgeous female librarian and had her first affair with a woman amongst these books. This relationship caused quite the scandal in the community but was her first foray into exploring her bisexuality.

Secretaría De Educación Pública

Just to the north of the school, is the spot of another one of Diego Rivera’s masterpieces. There are 235 panels in the Secretaría de Educación Pública featuring Diego’s favourite themes of blue-collar workers, and the glorification of all things Mexican. It was here while painting these murals in 1928 that Frida Kahlo would come to see Rivera once more. After her injury from the bus accident, she needed to find a way of making money for her family and art was always something which had interested her.

But Frida didn’t know if her artwork was skilled enough to become an accomplished artist. So she went to ask the one man she admired above all others and whom she knew would tell her the truth. She marched right up to him, her work under her arms, and asked him for an honest critique. He was flabbergasted at her brash attitude and charmed by her confidence. It looks him some time to recognize her as the little pest from years before, but it was here that perhaps Diego first fell in love with Frida.

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Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral

Frida’s mother was a fiercely religious woman. The Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral was right beside where Frida would walk to school every day and as such a part of her daily life. Even though many of Frida’s paintings contain a wide variety of indigenous imagery, she was raised in a Catholic household. Elements of religious iconography can be seen in her pictures, especially in her studies of ex-votos. This church is a beautiful place to explore and discover different references you might compare to some of Frida’s famous portraits. The church itself was built after the Spanish conquest of the Aztec Empire.

The Spaniards decided to build their first church on the site of the Templo Mayor of the Aztec in the city of Tenochtitlan. Stones from the destroyed temple of the Aztecs were used to create the church. And although we now look upon the destruction of that ancient temple as something to morn, it is incredible to stare up at this church and see stones stuck throughout from over 1000 years ago. The construction of the Cathedral began in 1573 and took until 1813 to complete! The enormous cathedral is over 350 feet long and 200 feet wide. This makes it Latin America’s largest and oldest temple.

The Palacio Nacional

The Palacio Nacional or National Palace is an enormous building which stretches out across the Zocalo. While some of the Palace is still used for governmental purposes, the rest of the building is open to the public and filled with incredible gardens, murals, fountains and works of art. But the most meaningful Frida related piece in the palace is the mural by Diego Rivera entitled, ‘The History of Mexico’.

The mural features the history of Mexico from pre-Columbian ancient times to the 1930s. Rivera painted the mural between 1929 and 1935. Key events in the mural feature stories like the Spanish conquest, the colonial period, the Independence movement, and the 1910 Revolution. The right side of the mural is a chronological study of the indigenous Aztecs before colonization.

The left side of the painting is less chronological, featuring smaller groups of stories about Mexico’s Independence. Along the bottom of the mural on the left is the portrait of Frida Kahlo, her iconic monobrow making her easily distinguishable from the others. She looks over a young boys shoulder at his book and is seen wearing a necklace with the communist star. In front of her, dressed in a red, is Cristina, Frida’s sister, holding open a copy of the Communist Manifesto. Years later, Diego would have an affair with Cristina, so seeing the two women here together, years before these dramatic events would unfold feels slightly foreboding.

Avenue 5 de Mayo

Walk along Avenue 5 de Mayo, towards our next destination. While the pedestrian street Avenue Francisco Madero is more popular, I always find it’d packed with tourists and people hawking flyers. In addition to this, the stores are all American brands which don’t feel as authentic to Mexico City. Walking along the street, you’ll see that many of these shops are incredibly old.

There are dozens of stores along the way that Frida herself might have popped her head in while she worked in the city. During her adolescence, she would come into the historic centre to work both in her father’s studio or at other artists’ workshops. Frida worked as an artist apprentice in the city, where she had her first affair with a married man. All of this before the age of 18. These streets filled her life with passion, and that can be seen in her escapades.

Garibaldi Square

Plaza Garibaldi is known as the home of mariachi music. Throughout the day, you’ll find mariachi bands playing all over the square. Frida herself loved coming here. She would bring her friends and family here anytime there was a celebration or holiday. She adored dancing to the music and often took part singing songs with the band members.

NOTE: Due to it’s proximity to the dangerous neighbourhood of Tepito, this area should be visited with caution, during the daylight hours. In recent years the city has taken many precautions to help with the safety concerns including increased police presence and the creation of the Bellas Artes-Garibaldi Tourism Corridor. This corridor has improved street lighting as well as the addition of beautiful gardens and sidewalks in the neighbouring streets to help improve the appearance of the area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Palacio de Bellas Artes

Palacio de Bellas Artes and its iconic rainbow stained glass roof are one of the most iconic images of Mexico City. The Palacio de Bellas Artes hosts events in music, dance, theatre, opera and literature and is therefore aptly named the “Cathedral of Art in Mexico”. The exterior of the building is primarily Neoclassical, but inside you’ll discover a plethora of Art Deco and Art Nouveau stylings. On the 3rd floor is Diego Rivera’s famous ‘El hombre en el cruce de caminos‘ (Man at the Crossroads).

This mural was initially painted for New York City’s Rockefeller Center in 1933 but torn down by Rockefeller when Diego refused to paint out the image of Lenin he had sneakily included. Frida’s life in New York City, following Diego around from commission to commission, was such a significant point in her life. Gazing upon this mural, albeit the second version of it, is still such a powerful connection to the couple.

Frida’s Funeral

When Frida Kahlo died, Diego arranged for her body to be laid in state at the Palacio de Bellas Artes. The government agreed, only if they would make it an entirely non-political event. Diego agreed, but unbeknownst to him, one of her students came to pay their respects and after he did, threw a huge communist flag over her casket. The government threated to have her body removed, but Diego refused to let them. He said if they tried, he would carry her dead body in his arm and sit with her on the steps of the palace. Before she died, the last words she wrote in her diary read:

“I hope the exit is joyful – and I hope never to return”.

Alameda Central

One of Rivera’s most famous paintings is the fifty-foot fresco ‘Sunday walk through Alameda Park‘. The picture is currently in the Diego Rivera mural museum, but visiting Alameda Park is an excellent opportunity to take a walk inside of the painting itself. Alameda Park was Mexico City’s first city park and was built on the grounds of an ancient Aztec marketplace. Frida is painted into the mural, wearing the traditional Tehuana dress. She is holding in her left hand the Yin-Yang symbol, which represents duality. Perhaps this is the duality of life, or maybe Diego painted it as a reference to Frida’s dual personality.

Frida is resting her hand on young Diego’s should, like a mother protecting her young one. You can imagine how many times Diego and Frida would have come to this park together, to paint and to relax. Take some time to walk around and even buy some street food snacks to enjoy under the Jacaranda trees which bloom bright purple in the springtime.

Museo Mural Diego Rivera

If you’ve visited the real Alameda Park, then it’s a treat to then see the mural of, ‘Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Central’. Look how closely Diego captured its likeness and the personalities of the people in the park. Despite being called a museum, the Museo Mural Diego Rivera is more of a housing spot for the mural, but the admission is just over a dollar. Originally the mural it was located at Hotel Del Prado. After the devastating 1985 earthquake, the hotel was condemned. Luckily, the mural was saved (in pieces) and moved the museum where it was reassembled.

La Ciudadela

Another iconic destination on the tour of Frida’s Mexico City is to the La Ciudadela marketplace. While this market only opened up in 1968, Frida would have frequented markets like this many times throughout her life in Mexico City. Places like this would have been where she came to purchase folk art, traditional textiles and elaborate, locally-made jewellery. So many of the old Tehuana patterns and dresses which Frida was known for can still be found in marketplaces like this.

Because this market is so large, you’ll have the largest selection and artisans comes from all over the country. Oaxaca is the best place to buy textiles from so if you see signage saying the products are from there you know they’ll be top-notch. If you’ve visited the Casa Azul already, you can even buy replicas of her favourite objects since many of those folk pieces are still made in the same way today. It’s like shopping in a Frida Kahlo-themed store!

Xochimilco Canals

Xochimilco is the Venice of Mexico. In the southern district of Mexico City, you’ll find is over 170 km of waterways which spread out in all different directions. Before the Spanish arrived in Mexico City, the indigenous people had created an incredible network of canals. They used these channels for transportation and to supply water throughout the country. Xochimilco means “Floating Gardens” as it refers to the Aztecs creation of the chinampas. Chinampas are artificial agricultural plots, rich in minerals, that are grown in shallow lake beds. In Xochimilco, they were used to produce thousands of flowers which looked like they were floating in the water. After the Spanish invasion, they dried up many of the canals in the centre of Mexico City to make room for modern roads. But the channels in Xochimilco remained.

Frida adored her Mexican heritage and the colourful culture which Mexico is all about. Today, Xochimilco is the best place to bask in that colour and energy. Along the canals, you can listen to mariachi bands, call over boats with mobile kitchens to serve up fresh tacos or delicious elote. Paddling along the stream are artisans selling flower crowns that resemble the flowers that Frida herself would wear in her hair. Even here, her iconic image is prevalent. To learn more about Xochimilco read my full guide here >> 

Museo Dolores Olmedo

While in Xochimilco, make sure you make a stop at the Museo Dolores Olmedo Museum. The museum is located inside the grounds of an old 16th-century residence. In 1962, Dolores Olmedo bought the house. Dolores was a fierce collector of art as well as a lover of Mexican culture. It is no surprise to learn then that she old became the largest collector of private works of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. In 1994, her collection was transformed into the museum we now find today. Luckily, Dolores lived until 2002, so she was able to see this fantastic house converted into an art gallery for the public.

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Today you can explore gardens filled with exotic Mexican plants, magical peacocks and Xoloitzcuintles. Xoloitzcuintles are a dog breed which was once only thought it exists in mythical stories of the afterlife but is actually an ancient Aztec dog. Frida herself loved these dogs and owned multiple throughout her lifetime. Inside the museum, you can find such famous Frida Kahlo’s as ‘The Broken Column’, ‘Henry Ford Hospital’, ‘Self-portrait with Changuito’, ‘A few Piquetitos‘ and ‘Mi nana Nand Me‘. If there is a particular painting, you wish to see be SURE to check online as so often her pictures are out on loan, being shown around the world.

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Templo Mayor Museum

Mexican culture and history were so essential to Frida’s life. Although Templo Mayor wasn’t discovered until after her death in 1978, Frida would have loved to have seen this relic from the past unveiled. Today, you can visit the museum and see what archaeologists discovered; the remains of the Aztec temple which the Spanish destroyed on their conquest into Mexico. The 10-foot carving of the Mexican goddess Coyolxauhqui and the over 7,000 Mexica artefacts is an entire half days worth of discovery!

Museum of Modern Art

The Museum of Modern Art in Mexico City has a stunning collection of 20th-century Mexican art. The most important being Frida Kahlo’s “The Two Fridas“. This painting is one of the most essential pieces in her oeuvre. It was painted after she divorced Diego and depicts what she saw as her two different personalities. The one on the left is dressed in traditional Tehuana costume, with a broken heart, her blood spilling out on the white of her dress. This Frida’s makeup is done, her lips painted deep red and rouge on her cheeks.

The Frida on the right is dressed in a more modern outfit. She is the independent Frida, whose heart is not broken and who can take on the world without Diego. But the two exist together, shattered and complete, heartbroken and confident. I love this painting as I feel it is so poignant to all of our lives and how we can be all things at once. Strong and weak, shy and loud, brave and scared. You don’t need to commit to one thing alone, we are complex beings, and this painting is a beautiful interpretation of that.

NOTE: Before visiting, be sure to check the website to see if the painting is on loan to another museum. Since this is the only piece of Kahlo’s inside the museum if you’re going expecting to see that and it’s on loan I know how disappointing that might be. So checking in advance is super important!

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Museo Nacional de Antropología

Throughout her life, Frida would often refer to “being the daughter and Mexico“. Her mother was unable to breastfeed young Frida, and so she was breastfed by her indigenous wetnurse. This is an image Frida has painted in a myriad of artworks. Frida always thought that by feeding on the milk of her country, she absorbed the cultural roots of her heritage from the minute she was born. Visiting the National Anthropology Museum is a window into the pre-colonial history of Mexico and those roots Frida so often referred to. The museum is also filled with many indigenous artworks as well as some of Frida and Diego’s student’s artwork they helped inspire.

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Mexican Art Gallery | GAM

Inés Amor founded the original Mexican Art Gallery in Mexico’s City in 1935. This was where Frida’s first art show in Mexico would take place. She exhibited her artworks during the inaugural International Surrealist Exhibition in 1940 with her painting ‘Las Fridas‘ (The Two Fridas, which is now at the Modern Art Gallery of Mexico). Even though there are no longer any of her pictures hanging on the walls, this is still an extraordinary place to visit. The gallery was the first to recognize the talents of Frida Kahlo professionally, and they are doing the same thing with current, contemporary Mexican artists today.

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Museo Franz Mayer

The Franz Mayer Museum is one of the most beautiful pieces of architecture in Mexico City. It also houses a wonderful personal art collection from collector Franz Mayer. Here you can find over six centuries of objects he took great care in collecting throughout his lifetime. These collections feature ceramics, furniture, silver, sculpture, paintings and engravings.

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But there is also a room, called the Marguerite Rostan gallery, which highlights traditional Mexican textiles and costumes. The collection contains clothing from 14 different ethnicities such as Amusgos, Triquis, Chinantecos, Mazatecos, Nahuas from various places across Mexico. This acquisition represents and embodies an important contribution to the knowledge of traditional Mexican costumes. Many of these dresses are so similar to the ones Frida wore throughout her life. If you’re interested in learning more about traditional Mexican fashion, this is a great place to visit.

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Museo Anahuacalli

On your way to Xochimilco, you should stop by the Museo Anahuacalli. Your ticket into the Casa Azul actually also covers your entry into this museum as well, so you kinda get a two for one! The Museo Anahuacalli was another one of Diego Rivera’s homes. Diego and Frida were both fierce nationalists who loved their home country and wanted to preserve its history. Diego and Frida dreamed of opening their own museum dedicated to these objects. Sadly, in their lifetime, this dream never came to fruition. But after Diego’s death, his daughter took up the project and created what is now the Museo Anahuacalli. Architect, Juan O’Gorman who designed their studio, also designed this house as well.

The exterior of the house was made using black volcanic stone, taken from an old volcano in Mexico and the texture is something truly unique. There are over 50,000 pre-Hispanic pieces inside the museum. Some of these Diego would collect while he and Frida would travel to ancient Aztec pyramids outside of Mexico City. Each one of them was a piece of Mexico’s heritage, a heritage that inspired the work of Frida Kahlo and I know she would be proud to have helped in the creation of this museum which stands today.

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If you’ve made it all the way through this post, I commend you! There is so much in Mexico City to see in the footsteps of Frida Kahlo. You can easily adapt this tour to your personal interests or locations you’re already planning on visiting. Frida is one of the most exciting artists I’ve ever studied, and I loved writing and researching this tour, so I hope you have as much fun following it as I did in creating it!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Guide to Following the Colorful Life of Frida Kahlo in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

It was her sanctuary but also her cage since for most of her life she was bedridden from injury and sickness. She spent more years inside these blue walls than perhaps anywhere else in the world. As such, it is one of the most intimate looks into her life that you can experience.

Self-Guided Tour of Casa Azul

1. Access
2. Hours
3. Tickets & How to Avoid the Lines
4. Frida's Neighbourhood of Coyoacán
5. Biography of Frida Kahlo
6. Frida and Diego
7. Start of the Self-Guided Tour of the Casa Azul
8. Touring the Exterior
9. Entry
10. Gardens
11. The Pyramid
12. Looks are Deceiving Exhibition
13. Sitting Room / Gallery
14. Dining Room
15. Diego's Bedroom
16. The Kitchen
17. Stairwell
18. Frida's Studio
19. Day Bedroom
20. Night Bedroom

Tickets & How to Avoid the Lines

Everyone seems to go on and on about the lines at Casa Azul. And yes, there are lines. But there are also lines at the Louvre, the MET and other famous museums around the world. There are lines wherever you find places which inflame the public’s imagination and curiosity to see what’s inside. So don’t be surprised, just be prepared. The best way to do this is by purchasing your tickets in advance. You select the date and time you want to arrive. When you get to Casa Azul you hop into pre-purchased ticket line (which is much shorter). Sometimes with your pre-purchased admission, you can just walk right inside.

Tickets cost 230 pesos ($12 US) on weekdays and 250 pesos ($13 US) on weekends. If you want to take pictures and some videos, you need to pay an extra 30 pesos ($1.50 US). Videos are not allowed inside but are ok in the outdoor areas.

Frida’s Neighbourhood of Coyoacán

Coyoacán is a small, quiet neighbourhood on the southern end of the city. It was once nothing more than a humble village but as Mexico City expanded, Coyoacán was absorbed into the megacity. The name comes from the Aztec word, which means “place of coyotes.” The streets are some of the oldest in Mexico City, full of colourful colonial architecture which gives it that bohemian feeling it became synonymous for. Frida’s father, an artist and famous photographer, found this quirky neighbourhood appealing. For more on Coyoacán check out my self guided walking tour!

Biography of Frida Kahlo

Frida Kahlo is one of the best-known female artists of the 20th-century. Her art is most notable for being full of ideas about sex, death, the body, gender, postcolonialism, class and race. All these ideas culminate in some of the most fantastic surrealist paintings which are anything but ordinary. Frida was born in 1907 inside the Casa Azul. The house was built by her father in 1904 and would be an emotional touchstone for young Frida. Both her mother and father had had some horrible events in their lives before Frida was born. Her father’s previous wife died in childbirth. And her mother’s ex-lover killed himself in front of her to profess his undying love. It’s impossible not to wonder how these powerful moments imprinted themselves into the family. Perhaps resulting in Frida’s ill-fated, yet extraordinary life.

Frida’s Early Health Issues

At a young age, Frida developed polio which resulted in her being bedridden for many months. It also left her with a severe limp and one of her legs being slightly shorter than the other. Being home all the time as a child meant she was around her father. She followed him around his studio, where she learned all about the creative process and how to compose a painting. She began painting and drawing under his watchful eye. Without any sons of his own, Frida became his creative successor.

He enrolled her in an art school in 1922, where she initially met Diego Rivera who was at the time, was painting a mural in the university’s auditorium. She was enthralled with him as soon as she laid eye on him and his art. She was so sure of him being one of her conquests that and would tell her friends she was going to marry him, even before speaking one word to the artist.

The Accident

One the way home from school one day, Frida’s was caught in a severe bus accident. A train crashed into the bus she was on, and it practically exploded on impact. Various people died instantly, and a few died in the hospital. Frida was left for dead, the ambulance refused to take her to the hospital as they assumed she would be dead before they arrived. But Frida was a fighter although her injuries would leave her disabled for the rest of her life.

She underwent over 30 different significant operations. The hospital staff thought she would never be able to get out of bed again. But by the end of the month, she was taking her first steps outside. Years of surgeries and recovery meant being confined to her bed once more. Her father made her a custom easel where she could paint in bed while lying down. She used this time to paint portraits of herself, as a way to comprehend the reality of what had happened to her. As her painting improved, and she was able to walk freely, she knew she had to help her family financially. Her operations had cost them greatly, and she needed to find out if she could make a career out of her art.

Frida and Diego

Frida went with various pieces of her artwork to get a critique from the famous Diego Rivera. When she met inside him, she claimed it wasn’t to flirt or get his attention. She wanted harsh criticism from the iconic artist and learn how she could improve. Diego was quite impressed by her artwork and was immediately taken with Frida’s bold personality. Frida was not your typical beauty. She embraced her more masculine characteristics. Frida had a monobrow and a bit of a moustache, but instead of hiding it or trying to remove it, she flaunted it. Some people said that she was one of the great beauties others found her almost hideous. It was this juxtaposition of opinions that Frida loved, using her sexuality as the great divider.

Frida and Diego’s Marriage

After only a short period of knowing Rivera, the two were married in 1929. Her mother and father roundly objected to the marriage, and so the two of them had a small, civil ceremony, presided over by only by a hairdresser and homeopathic doctors. Their relationship was fiery and passionate — each one is inflaming the creativity of the other. Diego encouraged Frida’s penchant for wearing traditional Tehuana dresses they both viewed them as the most authentic part of Mexican heritage. They became a kind of uniform for her, which she would wear for the rest of his life.

Frida and Diego moved into the family home, the Casa Azul, as her father was no longer able to afford to live there due to his declining career. Diego was at this point, a wealthy and well-known painter and could easily afford to keep the home in the family. Before they moved into the house, the house was painted s a rather dull colour. Frida and Diego made it their mission to repaint the entirety of the house bright blue, making their mark on this space.

Love Affairs

Diego was a womanizer, and despite Frida’s acceptance to their open relationship, she found herself overcome with jealously when Diego had an affair with her sister, Cristina. The news of their affair devastated her. Frida suffered numerous miscarriages and eventually was told by doctors due to her injuries from the bus crash she would never bear children. Painting became everything to her, and it was like her artworks became her children. Frida explored more and more images from her Mexican heritage. She said that Mexico was her great mother who raised her. As she became a painter in her own right, she was less affected by Diego’s affairs. In fact, she began having her own set of relationships with men and women alike.

The longest of her affairs was with famed photographer Nickolas Muray, with whom Diego was furiously jealous. Although Frida ended up divorcing Diego in 1939, they got remarried only a year later. It seemed that no matter what happened between these two, they could not be without each other. While it certainly was an alternative lover story, I found that to be the real charm of their relationship. It’s not perfect, it’s not a fairytale, but it’s real and laid bare for us to witness in her artworks.

Frida’s Death

Despite her blossoming career, Frida’s health began to decline. Eventually, her old injuries only worsened to the point where she had to have her right leg amputated. Her pain was almost unbearable, and she attempted suicide multiple times to escape it. Diego built for her a second floor to the Casa Azul where she could paint and work without having to leave the house.

She eventually was bound to her bed along and passed away on July 13th, 1954, at the age of 47 in that very bed. Her body was brought to the Palacio de Belles Artes in the historic centre of Mexico City where hundreds of mourners came to pay their respects. During her lifetime she was known as the wife of famed painter Diego Rivera. But today it is HER who has become a part of popular culture and art history. Diego gave the Casa Azul over to the government of Mexico City and it was opened up as a museum in 1958.

Start of the Self-Guided Tour of the Casa Azul

Touring the Exterior

If you have to wait outside before heading into the centre courtyard, take a minute to observe the outer exterior architecture.

“The house, painted blue inside and out, seems to shelter a bit of sky.”

Diego and Frida painted the house this bright blue colour when they moved in. Colour was of the utmost importance to Frida in her life and in her art. This vibrant azure was a hue associated with the feeling of freedom and expansiveness, like looking out on the eternal sea. And for a woman who was often unable to leave her own four walls, a feeling of freedom was the difference between sanity and madness. The house, built-in 1904 by her father, was built in a typical Spanish style of the age with a central courtyard surrounded by various rooms all on one level. The original exterior had a bit of French flair, but Frida removed all these gaudy elements in exchange for the primitive and simplistic decorations inspired by the indigenous people of Mexico.

Entry

As you walk in the main gates, under the giant floral ofrenda to Frida, you’ll pass under various of Frida’s papier-mâché alebrijes. Alebrijes are brightly coloured Mexican folk art sculptures of fantastical creatures. They were originally created in 1930 by the artist Pedro Linares. Linares fell gravely ill and during his fever-induced hallucinations found himself dreaming of a strange forest full of wild and colourful creatures. He saw donkeys with butterfly wings, a rooster with horns and lions with the heads of eagles, all shouting the word, “Alebrijes“. When he recovered, he set to making the creatures out of wood to bring his visions into his reality. He was good friends with Diego and Frida, and she was inspired by his story and made some for herself. These somewhat terrifying creatures, now greet all guests who come through the doors.

Gardens

The first space you’ll enter is the lush gardens. Walking in here is literally a breath of fresh air! You can smell the blossoming flowers everywhere you walk, like a scented canopy. Frida made her gardens an almost sacred space. She took care of each and every plant very seriously, almost as if they were her children. She adored watching them bloom and grow. All the plants were harvested from all across Mexico, so it’s like a tiny snowglobe of Mexican horticulture in one place. You’ll find yuccas, bougainvilleas, cacti, jasmine and agave blooming throughout the year.

Across the walls of the courtyard are various pre-Columbian idols, as Diego loved collecting these treasures of Mexican heritage. He would go to the old ruins of Teotihuacan almost every weekend in his early life looking for artefacts he could bring home with him. The walls which supported the new second story, made by Diego and Frida, were created from lava rocks and embedded shells the couple found on the shores of the beaches of Mexico.

Frida’s Teaching Career

In this garden, Frida held classes for her students. She began teaching in 1943 at Las Esmeralda Art School, but she found it too hard on her disabled body to come to classes at the school in the centre of town. Her dedicated student, dubbed “Los Fridos” would come to La Caza Azul where she could mentor them under the shade of these great palm trees. Their time with the great artist in her intimate home was something that imprinted greatly on them.

The Pyramid

In the middle of the garden is a minature, red and yellow painted replica of an Aztec pyramid. This was built by Juan O’Gorman for Diego Rivera in 1946. The artist used materials like volcanic stones and basal to build the structure. Along the base of the pyramid are various replica ceremonial statues from places like Teotihuacan or Tulum.

Looks are Deceiving Exhibition

At the back of the courtyard is an exhibition room which contains some of the most personal items of Frida Kahlo. This exhibition is entitled, ‘Las apariencias engañan‘ or Looks are Deceiving. This exhibition features a treasure trove of Frida’s clothing, corsets, makeup and jewellery. All of these items were only discovered in 2004. When Diego handed the house over to the Mexican people for use as museum he asked that several bathrooms (which has been locked) were not to be opened until many years after his death. When they opened the doors, they were shocked to find all these iconic dresses which featured in many of the most famous portraits of the painter. 

Frida’s Dresses

Her Tehuana dresses have become the iconic image of the painter. And even I wished I could have taken a few copies of them for myself! Tehuana dresses come from the Tehuantepec Isthmus located in the southeastern part of Mexico in the region of Oaxaca. Oaxaca is known the world over as being the heart of the textile industry in Mexico. The woman of the area are seen as the dominant sex, and it is mainly a matriarchal society. As such, their dresses needed to reflect this power.

Frida wanted to be seen as Diego’s artistic equal and adopting these dresses, and their accessories made her feel closer to that powerful matriarch. The clothing also helped to cover up her legs which were affected dramatically by the polio and the right left which had to be eventually amputated. The white petticoats which peek out from underneath the dresses were not only beautiful but practical as they could be detached from the rest of the gown to be washed. Since these long dresses would drag on the ground, the ability to only wash this portion of the dress was very inventive.

The Corsets

The corsets are one of the rawest and most eye-opening portions of the exhibition. They show us just how much pain this beautiful artist must have been suffering through every day, even though she forced a smile. But Frida did not only hurt physically, she also suffered emotionally. Frida’s once said of her husband’s infidelity,

“I suffered two grave accidents in my life. One in which a streetcar knocked me down. The other accident is Diego.“

She used her clothing as a defence against feeling weak and small. Instead, these clothes were loud and powerful. And wearing them made her feel this way even if underneath she did not.

Frida not only had some of the most gorgeous dresses but she also adorned her body in lush jewellery, highly embroidered footwear, and expensive perfume. When she was recovering from her multiple surgeries her wounds would fester and to cover up the smell she relied on flower headpieces and perfume to mask the smell. Even in bed, she would always be seen wearing dozens of pieces of jewellery.

Sitting Room / Gallery

Entering into the house, you first pass through what was once the old sitting room, or living room as we call it today. Here Frida and Diego would entertain their famous guests such as Nelson Rockefeller, George Gershwin, caricaturist Miguel Covarrubias, and actresses Dolores del Río and María Félix. Today, this area is used as an introduction to Frida’s life through her work. Some people have been disappointed not to see more of her artwork in the house, but you just need to set your expectations. I came in not expecting to see any at all, so I was pleasantly surprised to be able to get up close to these pieces.

Portrait of My Father, 1951 

One of the paintings Frida made in 1952, just two years before her death, was a gorgeous dedication to her father. Her father also had his fair share of suffering throughout his life. He was an epileptic who had to leave behind his family fortune in his home country to escape the Nazis as he was a Hungarian-born Jew. 

Frida and the Cesarean, Unfinished 1931

This painting depicts Frida in the hospital in Detroit after her second miscarriage. In this vision, Frida is attempting to deal with the trauma of her second failed pregnancy. This is a dream which portrays what would have happened if she had been able to carry the baby to full term and deliver it by cesarean. The child lays beside her on the bed, the image of Diego looking down on her. She was never able to finish this painting. It was nothing but a lie and she prided herself on painting what she perceived as reality. Days later, she would go on to paint “Henry Ford Hospital” which depicted the real horror of the miscarriage as it truly was.

Still Life, 1942 

Frida was a woman who embraced her sexuality, and as such her paintings are full of sexual references and illusions. This still life was painted for the Mexican presidential residence but was returned to the artist most likely due to it being a little too vulgar for the upper class. The open papaya resembles the shape of a womb. To the left, we see coral fungus resembling the ovaries, and to the right, we have an open cherimoya fruit which resembles female genitalia. While some onlookers will see nothing but a bowl of fruit, Frida was tempting her audience to open their minds and their six senses.

My Family, Unfinished 1949

This painting feels like the most appropriate piece for the setting inside their family home. It’s a family tree with her grandparents at the very top. Underneath them are Frida’s parents and herself and her siblings on the bottom. A fetus is seen in the centre of the four children. This is her brother who died only a few days after his birth. But to Frida, he is still very much a part of their family even after all these years. Three figures are unfinished to the right of the frame. These are thought to be the children of her youngest sister Cristina with whom Frida had a tumultuous relationship with after Cristina’s affair with Diego. Perhaps the fraught relationship was the cause of Frida’s inability to complete their images on the family tree. Frida being too jealous of her sister’s ability to bear children when she could not.

Viva la Vida, 1954

This was the last painting which Frida would complete before she died. It is a still life of watermelon’s, which are a popular image in Mexican art. Watermelons are seen around Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) when the fruits are eaten by the dead who return to the land of the living. Although the melons are bright and colourful, there is a thread of ominousness in their use as it feels Frida is predicting her own demise. Eights days before she died she wrote these words upon the watermelons “VIVA LA VIDA – Coyoacán 1954 Mexico” (Long Live Life!). In her diary a few days before she died she would write,

“I hope that the exit is joyful, and I hope never to return”

Retablos

One of my favourite parts of the exhibition of her artworks were her retablos. These tiny votive images were created when Frida was living in Detroit. While Diego worked on his large Detroit Industry Murals, Frida occupied herself with these creations. During the time huge, political murals were all the rage, and yet Frida was creating small, religious images. Each one of these were painted onto small metal sheets. When the society as a whole was all about grandeur, Frida was creating miniature worlds you had to get close up to really understand. In a way, you needed to become more intimate with them, unlike the murals which you could understand from afar.

Judas Figures

Inside the next room are two towering figures in papier-mâché. These are mujeres bonitos or Judas figures from Tlatilco, Mexico. These “Judas” figures would usually be made of papier-mâché and filled with firecrackers that would explode on the Saturday before Easter. This tradition was thought to cleanse ones sins by burning effigies of that which represented evil. For Frida, she collected these effigies unburnt, perhaps as a symbol of sin unburdened.

Frida’s Diary

In the last room are letters, newspaper clippings and selections of Frida’s diary, all found in the house when it was turned over to the city. Reading these lines from her journal is like sitting down with the woman herself. So often we lean on interpretations to understand what an artist was thinking or feeling, but here we have the words right from her own mouth. Her life was so fraught with sadness, and yet there is a hypnotic magic to her scribblings. Even if you can’t read Spanish, looking at the furious way in which she wrote is a way of understanding her emotional state at the time. Critiques wrote of her diary,

“The diary is the most important work Kahlo ever did…it contains energy, poetry, magic. They reveal a more universal Frida…In Kahlo’s paintings, you see only the mask. In the diary, you see her unmasked. She pulls you into her world. And it’s a mad universe.”

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Dining Room

From the large sitting room, you step into the part of the house which has been preserved with all the old furnishings and decor that Frida had collected. The first room you enter is the dining room. The floors are painted bright yellow, almost neon! Most of the tables and chairs are painted the same colour to match, making them looks as if they grew out of the floor. Despite yellow often being associated with joy and cheer, Frida had a much different interpretation. She wrote in her diary, “yellow is associated with madness, sickness and, fear. It is part of the sun and of happiness.” To see this yellow spread all over her house feels like she was attempting to invite others to share in her madness.

On the walls of the room are various, bright yellow shelves displaying Frida’s precious collections. In the 20th century, Mexican folk art was very under-appreciated in fine art collections. But Frida and Diego always saw its value and cherished collecting these items to preserve, even if just for themselves, elements of their Mexican heritage.

Guests in the Casa Azul

Around this dining table the couple entertained guests such as André Breton (French writer, poet and anti-fascist), Tina Modotti (Italian photographer, model, actress, and revolutionary political activist), Edward Weston (American photographer), Leon Trotsky (Russian revolutionary, Marxist theorist, and Soviet politician), Juan O’Gorman (Mexican painter and architect), Nickolas Muray (Hungarian-born American photographer and Frida’s lover), and many others.

On the shelves, in the dining room, we find two ceramic clocks. The hands of the clock do not move but are fixed on two different moments in time. The one on the left bears the date on which Frida decided to divorce Diego after discovering he was having an affair with her sister Christina. The other has the time when Frida and Diego decided to get remarried. By having this out in the open it proves how honest they both were about the problems inside their marriage. Their issues weren’t a secret and yet, in the end, their love for each other, especially inside these walls, feels eternal.

Diego’s Bedroom

On the other side of the dining room, is Diego’s bedroom. This small guest room was also used by Leon Trotsky when he stayed in Mexico City after fleeing the Soviet Union. After he and Frida had an affair, he was quickly removed from the house by Diego. On the walls of the room, hang Diego’s painting overalls along with his iconic hats he was always seen wearing.

On the antique chair near the window is a small embroidered pillow with the words “Despierta Corazon Dormido” (Wake Up, Sleeping Heart) sewn in with rainbow thread. Words I’m sure Frida would whisper to her husband every morning upon waking him up for breakfast. Sitting on the dresser along the wall are various ancient Aztec sculptures along with Diego’s death mask. Around the room are multiple paintings, most of a highly sexualized nature, to reflect Diego’s passionate character.

The Kitchen

The kitchen is one of the most elaborately decorated rooms in the house. The kitchen floor is painted the same bright yellow with Azul and yellow tiles trimming the walls. Along the walls are hung a variety of utensils, and tableware Frida used when she cooked. Frida learned how to cook from, of all people, Diego’s ex-wife. Lupe (his ex-wife) knew all of Diego’s favourite recipes and how important food was to him. Despite Lupe’s relationship not working out, she found deep affection for Frida and wanted the best for their marriage. Along the wall are dozens of miniature clay mugs which spell out “Frida + Diego” over the old stovetop. The old stove was never modernized from its original design and Frida still cooked using the woodfire while she lived there.

On either side of the window are these same clay pots used to form the shape of two doves, tying a lover’s knot. It seems everywhere you look here there are symbols of love. They often say, a way to a man’s heart is through his stomach. Often we see the kitchen as a more utilitarian space but Frida made it a room which bursts with romance and love.

On her kitchen table are several vegetable-shaped clay tureens and terra cotta painted plates and pots. Nothing Frida used in her kitchen was mass-produced or “out of the box”. Everything was handmade and embellished with images of animals or traditional Mexican designs.

Stairwell

Moving from the first floor into the newly built second storey you pass through a small stairwell with sitting areas at the bottom. This tiny courtyard-like space is bursting with folk art objects, large paintings which crawl up the walls, taxidermied animals and some charming hand-painted pieces of furniture.

Frida’s Studio

Frida’s studio was built here because of her ever-worsening illnesses and disability. After the surgery to remove her leg, she found leaving her house to be very difficult. As such, Diego built this extension for her so that she could continue to work. The steel-framed windows are wrapped around the rooms to allow for light to pour in from the outside freely. From here, Frida could also look down into the garden, almost as if she was standing right in the middle of it. The blue of the walls on the exterior are so bright they reflects right into these rooms.

Painting Studio

Along the window is where Frida would work. She had a writing desk and an area for her easel where she would paint in her wheelchairs towards the end of her life. Today, her paints, brushes and pigments are all still laid out, as if awaiting her return. A mirror sits beside her workspaces, as she would frequently need it to paint the self-portraits she was famous for. She once said,

“I paint self-portraits because I am the person I know best. I paint my own reality. The only thing I know is that I paint because I need to and I paint whatever passes through my head without any consideration.”

Sitting on the easel in front of her wheelchair is a painting she never finished, entitled “Still Life With Flag“. Towards the end of her life, she didn’t have the same control over the brush as she once used did. Her refined techniques were not quite there but her craving to paint was unabated. The easel was actually a gift to Frida from Nelson Rockefeller who came to visit them in Mexico City before asking Diego to paint a mural for him in New York.

Book Collection

Along the walls of her studio are her collection of books. As a bibliophile, I spent way too long peering against the glass, trying to make out every single book cover and title. Kahlo, as expected, was obsessed with collecting antique books about Mexican culture and old atlas detailing the topography of the country. Inside the cabinets are also several precious items and souvenirs. When she was unable to walk, her friends would all come to visit her in bed. She would always ask them to bring something with them to remind her of the outside world. It helped with her connection to the world despite being so removed from it.

Cabinets of Curiosity

Hidden away in a cabinet are boxes and boxes of all the medications she had to take to deal with the pain she suffered from. In the cabinet are also dozens of bandages and other medical equipment. Here in her own house, it seemed like she had a mobile hospital of sorts. It’s truly incredible that in all this pain she could make so many beautiful things. I know when I’m ill I find it impossible to do almost anything. Truthfully, Frida has always been an inspiration to me during some of my more serious illnesses.

Thinking of all she managed to accomplish while suffering like she did would give me the strength I needed. On her walls of the studio is also a sizeable anatomical print of the “intra-uterine life of a fetus”. After Frida’s multiple miscarriages, she became obsessed with these images. Perhaps it was a way of processing what had happened to her. Like she was desperate to find meaning for her loss and that she wasn’t simply damned.

On the floor of this space, you’ll see several large colour trunks. These were what Frida’s clothing had been stashed away inside in those locked bathrooms.

Day Bedroom

Frida actually had two different bedrooms built for her in this space. A daytime bed and a night time bed. As the names suggest, one was made for sleeping, the other, for her to lie in while she convalesced. Frida’s bedroom was left much as it was the day she died. Her tiny, four-poster bed was installed with a mirror on top so she could still paint her own self-portraits without needing even to lift her head. You can see this mirror for yourself and picture her lying there, looking up at herself, wishing to be anywhere be there. On the walls at the foot of the bed, are a series of portraits of Lenin, Stalin, and Mao Tsetung. In the corner of the room are a pair of her old crutches.

As this was the bedroom where she would do her painting, there is still a side table with various paints and brushes at hands for her if inspiration would strike. On the wall, there is a small bookshelf with some of the books she was reading before she died. Above them a grouping of photos, one of which is a picture of herself taken by her lover photographer Nickolas Muray. Above her bed is a painting of what we can only assume is a dead child with a garland of purple poppies around the frame. Photo of children who past away were popular in the Victorian era, as a means of memorializing them. We can only assume who this child was to Frida. Perhaps it was a protector or the image of what she imagined one of her children to be if she had grown up even a little.

Death Mask

Sitting on her little daybed, wrapped in one of her favourite shawls, is Frida’s death mask. They change the shawls out throughout the year depending on the season, just as Frida herself would have changed her outfits up based on the time of year.

Night Bedroom

Her night bedroom feels a little more whimsical and, appropriately, dreamlike. Above the bed, looking down at her, instead of her own visage was a frame full of butterfly specimens given to her by Japanese-American sculptor Isamu Noguchi. When asked about her disabilities Frida would often respond, “Feet, what do I need them for? If I have wings to fly.” Up with the butterflies were also a series of hanging dolls. Perhaps Frida saw herself in these dolls, flying above the world with the butterflies.

On her bed is a pillow, embroidered like the one in Diego’s room, with the words “Do not forget me, my love.”

Across from her bed, on a laced-topped table, is a headless pre-Columbian urn which contains her ashes. The urn is in the shape of a toad, which was her nickname for Diego. Even in death, she is literally inside of him.

In her night bedroom is a large green cabinet containing an extensive collection of her childhood toys. Green to Frida represented “good, warm light” and perhaps her childhood (before her polio) was one of the most cherished times of her life. Against the wall is a tiny bench with Frida’s name and the year 1910 written upon it. It is one of the only pieces of furniture from the previous household which remains.

In the corner of the room is a green and white coat rack, with little flowers dotting the surround. Upon it is one of Frida’s extra headscarves. You can imagine Frida standing here in the natural light of the morning, putting on layer up layer of clothing, jewellery and perfume, her mask to face the day.

Stairs down to the Garden

The stairs which lead back down to the garden are located opposite her daybed. The large doorway to the garden allowed for so much natural light to flood into Frida’s room so she could better see what she was painting. The stairs lead down to the reflecting pool where I imagine Frida would have come to sit and contemplate, the sound of nothing but the birds and the wind in the trees surrounding her. The truest peace she could find.

Visiting the Casa Azul, I genuinely think is as important as anything else you’ll do in Mexico City. Even if you don’t know of Frida or even perhaps aren’t interested in her artwork, this museum is so much more than a gallery. It’s a glimpse into the life of a woman who changed the future of females artists forever. She took it upon herself to preserve and share her love of Mexican indigenous cultures. And today, the image of Frida, in her traditional colourful dress and floral headpiece, is as iconic as the Mona Lisa.

Me and my Diego

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Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. #1. Take a Walk on the Boardwalk
3. #2. Light some Spirit Cleansing Incense in the Benten-do
4. #3. Read Your Fortune
5. 4. Sample Street Food
6. #5. Ride in a Duck Boats
7. #6. Admire the Kiyomizu Kannon Temple
8. #7. Walk Through the Torii Gates
9. #8. Have a Hanami
10. #9. Find the Ueno Daibutsu
11. #10. Take a Step Back in Time at the Tokyo National Museum
12. #11. Write Your Wishes on an Ema
13. #12. Find the Golden Gates of Toshogu Shrine
14. #13. Ameya Yokocho

Access

Ueno Park covers a large area and is surrounded by several stations. Most people who visit the park simply take the JR line to Ueno Station.

#1. Take a Walk on the Boardwalk

As you pass through the main gates of Ueno Park, you come upon a sea of green lotus leaves, absolutely glowing against that blue sky. This is Shinobazu Pond. The pond is situated in the south part of Ueno Park and is divided into three different areas. The Lotus Pond, the Boat Pond and the Cormorant Pond. There are several boardwalks across the Lotus pond which seemed to disappear into the green masses as they trailed off.

#2. Light some Spirit Cleansing Incense in the Benten-do

Beside the pond, stands a moderately tall temple with a bright teal roof and octagonal shell painted brilliant red. This is a Benten-dō. A Benten-dō is an octagonal temple dedicated to Benten, the goddess of good fortune, wealth, music and knowledge.  Temples are the places of worship for Japanese Buddhists and often store and display sacred Buddhist objects. The roofs of these temples are almost always the most impressive part of the building. The intricate patterns of tiles create a rich texture, and intricate sculptures line the eaves, a contrast to the simple wooden structure below. In front of the temple, you’ll find a large incense burner where locals will come to cleanse themselves before entering. Incense has been used in Buddism since the 6th century in Japan and is often used as a means of purifying yourself before entering the temple for meditation. The smell permeated this en

#3. Read Your Fortune

Found inside more shrines are cabinets containing ‘O-mikujis’. O-mikujis means ” the sacred lot” and are random fortunes written on pieces of paper housed in beautiful wooden drawers near the shrine. There are various ways of receiving these fortunes, but often they received by shaking a metal container with different sticks inside until one stick comes out a small hole at the top. You can then match the Kanji characters carved on the stick to the wooden drawers along the wall where your corresponding fortune will be found. Your fortune will always be characterized by a type of blessing. These blessings range from; great blessings, small blessings, half blessings, ending blessings and even, god forbid, curses. In additional to blessings, your fortune will also contain a reference to an aspect of your life. These can be such topics as; travel, lost articles, romantic relationships, disputes and business dealings.

4. Sample Street Food

Food stalls pop up all over the parks and around the temples. Even during the offseason, there is almost always something delicious to be found here! Most of the food stalls are selling traditional Japanese street food. If you’ve just arrived in Japan, this is such a great opportunity to dive right into to trying all different kinds of Japanese treats. Don’t be scared of these, Japanese street food is very safe to eat!

#5. Ride in a Duck Boats

Around the back of the Benten-dō is the Boat Pond. This body of water is home to the brightly coloured duck boats and other small paddle boats available for rent. The cost to rent a swan boat is 700 yen for 30 minutes. Peddling around the pond, especially during cherry blossom season is a wonderful experience!

#6. Admire the Kiyomizu Kannon Temple

Make your way towards steep steps and climb up to the Kiyomizu Kannon Temple. From the top of the stairs, you have the most fantastic view of the Bentendo below and the beautiful trees surrounding it. The first Kiyomizu Kannondo temple was built in 1631. Although fire and weather have destroyed the original temple, the one standing atop the hill now is a perfect replica of the same one people have worshipped at for ages past. Standing in the courtyard and on the deck, you feel as though time has stopped. Nothing surrounds you but trees and the outside world, full of technology, stress and troubles, seems so far away.

The Kiyomizu Kannondo temple is home to a relic of Kosodate Kannon, the goddess of conception, and is particularly popular among women hoping to have children. You see many ladies come up these steps with their husbands, cheerfully smiling, hoping the goddess will bless them with their heart’s desire. Other women approach the temple with a more

#7. Walk Through the Torii Gates

Walk back down to the stairs from the temple and stroll along the main walkway. Head towards the Ana Inari shrine where you’ll find a stunning collection of ‘torii’ gates.  A ‘torii’ gate is commonly found at the entrance of a Shinto shrine, where it symbolically marks the transition from the mortal realm to the sacred realm. The brilliant vermillion colour you often see these gates painted with is used as the colour acts to block out magical powers and evil spirits. 

As we sauntered down the rows of bright vermillion gates, we saw various, curious stone foxes with red scarves on either side of the shrine. These are called ‘Kitsune’ or fox spirit. These Kitsune are believed to possess superior intelligence, long life, and magical powers and are also there to protect the shrines. Foxes in North America are often thought of as devious scoundrels, but in Japan, they are revered with the highest regard.

#8. Have a Hanami

Along the main road that winds throughout the park are rows upon rows of cherry blossom trees. There are over 1000 trees in the park, and in April they attract ‘hanami parties’ where locals come to celebrate and enjoy the incredible views. Even if you are visiting outside of cherry blossom season, I think these trees, no matter what time of years, are still the perfect place to park yourself under and enjoy a conbini picnic!

#9. Find the Ueno Daibutsu

One of the most interesting edifices in the park is the temple dedicated to the Ueno Daibutsu. The Ueno Daibutsu was a giant bronze Buddha statue that stood from 1631 – 1923. Unfortunately, it was destroyed in the Great Tokyo Earthquake of 1923. The remains were if you can believe it, melted down to make bullets in WWII and today all that remains is the great Buddha’s face. People come from all over to see it. Outside the temple, the emas are all painted with the Ueno Daibutsu’s face.

#10. Take a Step Back in Time at the Tokyo National Museum

The Tokyo National Museum is the oldest and largest museum in Japan. It’s spread out across over 5 different buildings located inside the park. There are over 110,000 items on display which help newcomers to Japan learn all about its rich history! Admission is only 620 yen, which is less than $6 making it an amazingly cheap way to travel back in time!

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#11. Write Your Wishes on an Ema

Outside almost every temple in Japan, you’ll see hundreds of small, wooden plaques hanging on a large board. Each one is painted on one side, and the other is left for the user to write upon it. These are called ‘Emas‘. Emas are prayers or wishes left for the gods to receive. Often ema will bear pictures which may reflect the wish or the god they are trying to reach out to. The word ’ema’ means “picture horse”. This is because long ago, people would donate their horses to shrines to win favour with the gods.

As time went on, this tradition was transferred to wooden plaques with horses painted on them. These days, you donate money to the shrine to receive your chosen ema. People will often use their ema wish for luck on an exam or for a happy marriage or even just to pray for a child. Depending on your type of wish, you can search out a shrine or temple which specializes in your kind of wish.

#12. Find the Golden Gates of Toshogu Shrine

If you’re interested in seeing some Edo style architecture, head over to the Toshogu Shrine. This gorgeous shrine has survived earthquakes, wars and the worst of them all, urbanization! The shrine was dedicated to the Tokugawa Shoguns (commander in chief in feudal Japan) and is the final resting place of Tokugawa Ieyasu, who ruled Japan for over 250 years until 1868. Unlike some more modest shrines, this shrine is full of ostentatious ornamentation! Everywhere you look there appears to be gold leaf, shining in the sunlight. Over 50 copper lanterns greet you as you enter. Be sure to study the gorgeous wood carving painted in stunning rainbow colours which decorate the entire exterior of the shrine.

#13. Ameya Yokocho

To end your day, head over to Ameya-Yokochō. Ameya-Yokochō is a marketplace home to over one hundred and eighty-one shops occupying about 164,227 square feet outside of Ueno station. The market consists of two streets, which run parallel to the train line. The first street is mainly street vendors selling local produce and fresh food while the other streets have mostly permanent shops which sell everyday goods and slightly more upscale merchandise. The name Ameya-Yokochō comes from the word “ameya” which in Japanese means “candy store”. After WWII, sugar was hard to obtain, but in this area of Japan, there were many candy stores still selling the precious sweets. Even today, you can still find a few stores selling Japanese candy. It’s a great place to find sweet and savoury items or just browse some awesome shops where you can find great souvenirs at low, low prices!

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Table Of Contents

1. Access to the Museum
2. Admission and Hours
   • What is Ramen?
   • About the Museum
3. Gallery Floor
4. Street Replica Dining Room
   • Decor of the Museum
5. The Ramen Varieties
6. How to Order
7. The Outdoor Bar
8. Don't' Skip Exploring the rest of the Museum
   • Gift Shop
     • Happy Travels, Adventurers!

Access to the Museum

Most people who visit the museum are coming from Tokyo on a day trip to Yokohama. The trip takes about 50 minutes. Take the JR Tokaido Line straight to Higashi-Kanagawa Station. Change lines to the Yokohama City Subway and take the green line to Shinyokohama station. From there it’s an 8-minute walk to the museum.

Admission and Hours

To enter the museum, the fee is 310 yen ($3) for adults and 100 yen ($1) for children and seniors. The entry price is very low, but you are asked to purchase at least two bowls of ramen when inside as a part of the admission. There is no way to monitor this; it’s more of an honour system. But trust me, it’s not difficult to want to try a lot more than just two varieties. The museum is open from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. every day except for holidays. The ramen shops inside stop serving 30 minutes before the museum closes.

What is Ramen?

Ramen is a Japanese noodle dish from China and is now one of the most popular things to eat in Japan. So much so that many people might even assume that ramen is originally Japanese. The museum is dedicated to educating people about the flavours, traditions and specialties that different kinds of ramen from all of Japan possess.

About the Museum

The Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum was first opened in 1994 as a one-stop shop for people to sample all varieties of ramen, which has been dubbed the national dish of Japan. The museum’s interior is designed to replicate the streets of Japan in 1958. It was in 1958 that the first instant ramen was invented in Japan, so the year is of great significance to the museum.

Gallery Floor

The museum is made up of three floors. The first floor is the gallery, where plaques on the walls detail the history of ramen noodles over the years. Along one wall, there is a mosaic of instant ramen bowl designs sold in convenience stores worldwide, highlighting the most attractive designs. The information and history are pretty bare bones, so if you’re looking for something more in-depth, check out the Ramen Museum in Osaka, which is much more thorough.

Street Replica Dining Room

After touring the gallery, you descend into the 2-storey basement, where immediately you are awestruck upon walking into a scale replica of the town of Shitamachi, a small suburb of Tokyo set in 1985. The 1950s was a boom time for Tokyo, and it is looked back at with rose-tinted glasses by many older Japanese historians. This was the Showa era when young people still lived in small villages, cared for their parents and cherished the small-town lifestyle. Those same towns are almost fading away because they are losing all their young people to major cities like Tokyo.

Decor of the Museum

The details in the design of this faux city are immaculate. The scene is set at dusk, and the city’s twinkling lights have started to shine. We see a variety of ramen shops surrounding the exterior of an old train station in the country. These ramen shops would catch commuters on their way home and be central to small-town life. There is a lived-in feeling to this place, a grittiness that helped the authenticity of the experience.

Along the walls are fake advertisements and retro signage — posters advertising rooms for rent, blockbuster movies and even the latest in electronics. Clothes hung out to dry, and a subtle breeze blew through the air.

The Ramen Varieties

There are nine different restaurants open throughout the two lower floors serving up all sorts of different variations of ramen, each specializing in a regional flavour profile. The small brochure you receive with your admission describes every shop and what they serve. But the best way to explore them is to try them all.

To distinguish the different types of ramen, the place to first look is at the broth. In the south, they use pork bone (tonkatsu) broth; in the north, they use a clear chicken and vegetable broth seasoned with salt and a pad of butter; in other regions, they prefer a soy sauce or miso broth to bring in some extra flavour. My favourite is the pork bone broth. The broth is thick and fatty, mixed with the noodles. This ramen is a perfect, hearty dish.

Other regional specialties include toppings and noodles. You can have wontons, roast pork, bamboo shoots and (due to the Korean influence) a massive helping of hot chilis. There is even a vegetarian option made without pork broth for those with that dietary restriction.

How to Order

There are usually two lines in front of each shop; one to line up to purchase a meal ticket and the other to get your seat inside. You need to buy a ticket for your ramen from a small vending machine outside the shop before you can get seated. All the buttons are in both English and Japanese, so don’t worry about having to translate. Once you’ve bought your ticket, you can line up and be given a seat inside.

One important thing to note, you cannot sit inside the restaurant without purchasing ramen. So get ready to eat a lot, or you’ll have to wait outside like a chump. I had to do this while my husband enjoyed more noodles. You can buy a “mini ramen,” which is about 2/3 the size of a regular bowl but will allow you to fill up more throughout your visit.

Once seated inside, these small shop fronts open up into regular-sized ramen restaurants, and you’d never even know you weren’t on the streets of Tokyo. There are tables for groups, doubles and even single seats around the bar, so you won’t have to wait too long to be seated. Weekends and holidays are busier, but on weekdays we barely had to wait at all. Find the shortest line and start there.

The Outdoor Bar

In the centre of the room are a few tables and an outdoor bar where you can order a variety of local alcoholic beverages. In the summertime, they also offer ‘kakigori,’ which is shaved ice covered in sweet syrup flavoured to your preference. Sitting out under the twinkle lights and neon signs, this is a great place to take a break between ramen dishes.

Don’t’ Skip Exploring the rest of the Museum

After you’ve filled up on ramen, you can walk around the first basement level to check out the “dashi” or dime shops. These little shops sell penny candy, old retro toys and even pin-up photos of vintage Japanese film stars. Fill up a small plastic basket with all the sweets the little kid inside you desires.

The side street around the ramen shops weaves around the museum; hidden alleys and dead ends make the entire place feel real. See if you can find your way to the ice cream shops where you can cool down after all that hot ramen. There is also a small bar if you feel like a break between rounds of ramen.

Wandering the narrow alleyways, there are also fake storefronts selling cigarettes, cameras, cosmetics and more. Crawling up the wall are dozens upon dozens of ads written in Japanese. I wished I had been able to read them, as I’m sure they helped set the scene for the surroundings.

Gift Shop

On the upper level, you’ll find the gift shop. This shop has many ramen-themed trinkets and souvenirs, and they even sell vacuumed-packed ramen packages you can customize with your favourite ingredients to take home with you. They can also print a custom package design with your face imprinted on the packet. These were so cool, but be sure you are allowed to bring them into your country before assuming you can bring them home, as some customs might not let the meat products through. It’s still a great thing to do, and you even eat back at your hotel before you head on the plane home.

While some people might not think the trip down to Yokohama is worth visiting this museum, Yokohama is such an incredible city, and I highly recommend adding it to your itinerary. While exploring this seaside city, make some time to visit the Shinyokohama Ramen Museum and experience the entirety of Tokyo’s ramen scene in one afternoon. Come hungry and leave happy!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Guide to Eating Your Way Through Yokohama’s Amazing Ramen Museum first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Access & Hours

Located off the strip, at 1610 East Tropicana Street, this is the second iteration of the Pinball Museum or Pinball Hall of Fame as it is now known. After growing popularity, it moved out of its original location further away from the strip and now is home on East Tropicana street in a 10,000 sq. Ft warehouse! As you go game to game, you are always surrounded by flashing lights, the sound of balls clinking and clacking against quick snapping flappers, bright colours glowing in the dark and high scores calling you out to over take them. The Hall of Fame is open 11am till 11pm, Sunday to Thursday and 11am till Midnight, Friday and Saturday. The late hours mean you can play far into the night, but the fact that it’s also open somewhat early means that if you’re only in a town for a few days, you can play during the day while the strip is a bit quiet early on.

History

The Pinball Hall of Fame features over 200 pinball games, all perfectly ready to play so much time as you have a quarter in hand. Each one of them represents a different piece of pinball history and spans all different periods of time. Tim Arnold is the man responsible for this amazing collection of classic arcade games along with other members of the Las Vegas Pinball Collectors Club. Tim and the club members wanted guests to come in and relive their childhood memories of playing these arcade games in a time before iPods, iPhone, Wiis and PlayStations.

Although Pinball-like games from the 16th to 17th century do exist, the Pinball machines as we know them now, with coin operated flippers and balls, only appeared in the mainstream as early as 1930. The Pinball Hall of fame is home to some of the earliest games in arcade history, and although they might not have all the bells and whistles as some of the modern machines, these games are steeped in history. Their designs evoke the culture from which the game was made, and as your place your hands on the slides to keep that ball from falling that hole; you can almost feel the decades of people that came here before you.

Prices

Despite many of these machines being made decades ago, each one of them works like new! And by no mistake either. Tim and his team work tirelessly to restore these machines to their original working condition to make the experience for the customers as close to the original as possible. The other amazing thing about this place is the price. There is no entrance fee, all you need to do is put money in the machines. Unlike places like Dave and Busters or other chain video game arenas, they cost almost as much as they did 30 years ago. Older pinball machines are 25 cents a play, and more modern models are 50 cents a game. In a city where losing your money for nothing is easy, this place makes you feel like your buck not only stretches pretty far, but every game is a riot and a blast to play. There’s no feeling defeated after you’ve dropped your coins down a slot, only feeling the joy of being a kid again.

The Pinball Hall of Fame is a non-profit organisation. It relies on people coming in to play their games to stay afloat. They also subset their expenses by restoring old pinball machine for other arcades and selling a “Pinball Repair” DVD for self-service repairs. So, if you do come in, be sure to play a few games, buy a coke from one of the old soda machines and snack on Mike and Ikes from the retro candy dispensers.

The Games

We stayed here for hours! Every machine has something special that you just HAD to play to see happen. My favourite games were mostly the older ones. The Elton John game from the old Bally’s Casino was hilarious, and the illustrations were perfection! Some of the oldest machines were a blast from the past and their mechanics very interesting to explore. They were so unique, and it was fascinating to see how they developed and were refined over time.

My husband managed to find an old WWF game, and that was his clear favourite. I have to say, it was pretty cool and was from one of the best time periods in wrestling history. Again, the design and illustration of the graphics on this machine was so fantastic and the different voices from the wrestlers that came on while playing certainly took you right back to the attitude era.

The game with the best music was for sure the old Star Wars game. The John William’s score still sends goosebumps up my arms and reminds me of my own childhood. The two games with the best surprises were the Twilight Zone and the X-men machines. The Twilight zone has different levels that would open up like staircases as your score rose. It was so cool and honestly sometimes would take you away from watching the ball, just admire the different transformation the board was doing.

The X-men game also has fantastic voice acting, sliding and shifting ball ramps that move like a maze and a board that adapts itself to the story that the game is telling as you go. I have a soft spot for X-men, so this one touched my heart and kept me there more quarters than I care to admit.

In addition to Pinball Games, they also have some very distinctive arcade games. One which we loved was the bowling game that came with real yet slightly more minature, pins and balls that you threw down the lane. They also had a few whimsical love testers which are never something we can pass up, even just for a laugh.

All in all, this is for sure one of the best things to see in Vegas. Visitors often never leave the main strip but I implore you to step outside the casinos and bars and see what else Vegas has to offer. There are incredibly rare and fabulous places to visit, created by dedicated collectors keen to share their passion with you. And this is exactly what the Pinball Museum is all about!

The post The Pinball Hall of Fame, One of the Best Alternative Things to do in Las Vegas first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.