In this guide, we’ll walk you through how to make the most of a rainy day in London, from museums to markets and everything in between! No matter your travel style, we’ve outlined different themed itineraries to suit all interests! There’s even one just for the kids. But feel free to mix and match if you like! Each themed itinerary is also planned around specific neighbourhoods to prevent you from having to jump all over the city, especially in the rain.

Table Of Contents

1. Map of Themed Itineraries
2. Start Your Day with a Warm Cup of Coffee or Tea
3. Explore London's Best Museums
4. Warm Up with Market Comfort Food
5. Get Lost in a Bookstore
6. Explore London's Most Interesting Shopping Stops
7. The Coziest London Restaurants
8. Evening Entertainment
9. Where to Get a Drink!

Map of Themed Itineraries

Start Your Day with a Warm Cup of Coffee or Tea

On a rainy day, there’s nothing quite like a hot cup of coffee or tea to start your day. And in London, there is no shortage of cozy cafes where you can curl up with a warming breakfast. I also have an entire post dedicated to my favourite cozy coffee shops if none of these catch your fancy!

Classic: Café in the Crypt

Just off the iconic Trafalgar Square stands the old St Martin-in-the-Fields church. Trafalgar Square is smack dab in the centre of the tourist hubbub of London. But amongst the tourist traps and overpriced nonsense around here, Café in the Crypt is a true hidden gem. I mean, really, it’s actually hidden underground. Find the glass stairwell just side the church entrance leading to the crypt. Don’t worry; there are lots of signs to guide you inside.

Café in the Crypt is exactly like it sounds, a little coffee shop set up inside the ancient crypts of St Martin-in-the-Fields church. Although you might expect a hundred-year-old crypt to feel dark and eerie, the atmosphere down here is joyful. And it has a great community-type energy. It doesn’t get more classical than sipping your morning tea inside an old, architectural masterpiece. Even in the rain, down here, you won’t notice a difference.

Artsy: The Attendant

In the centre of Fitzrovia is an old iron gate. Behind it you’ll spot a stairwell leading you down into one of the best-hidden gems in London. Down below the surface, you are led into a stunning slice of history inside the Attendant Cafe. This quaint coffee shop is housed inside a former Victorian public restroom. Yes, you heard that right! This cafe serves up great coffee and delicious brunch options, all inside a beautifully restored Victorian interior. Enjoying your morning brew here, surrounded by the fantastical historical furnishings, is such a special way to start your day. Another hidden away locations that doesn’t care about the rain.

Alternative: Artisan Coffee

For an alternative coffee shop, you can’t beat the streets around Brick Lane, where you’ll find Artisan Coffee. A charming cafe nestled just off the main street, which serves a robust cappuccino and offer a variety of fresh pastries. The cafe is brightly lit, yet it retains a warm, inviting atmosphere, far from sterile or minimalist, and perfect to snuggle up inside on a rainy day. Wooden accents and green plants adorn the area, enhancing its coziness. There’s ample seating, and the vibe is very relaxed, with everyone around seeming very laid-back.

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For the Kids: The Muffin Man Tea Shop

Ok, now, while this shop isn’t located on Drury Lane, but when I found out there was a cafe in London named the ‘Muffin Man,’ I knew I had to check this place out! Named after the children’s nursery rhyme of the same name, the Muffin Man Tea Shop is a charming and cozy little spot. Perfect for hiding away from the rain. The interior is decorated with a traditional English charm. Featuring quaint wooden tables and chairs, delicate lace curtains, and vintage tea sets. 

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The menu is classic English breakfast food. It’s not fussy or fancy, perfect for the kids. Their Muffin Man pancakes with banana, blueberries, and cinnamon are amazing and a great option to share as well. As it’s only breakfast and not quiet time for afternoon tea, if you want to try something similar with your kids, go for the Muffin Man Tea set. This comes with a toasted teacake, a slice of cake and a pot of tea. And add a side of Devonshire cream to make it a ‘cream tea’ morning treat! Especially if you have kids who love to play tea time with their dolls, this is such an adorable place to take them for the real thing! But in a laid-back setting, you won’t feel like they’re out of place.

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Explore London’s Best Museums

After loading up on a filling breakfast, if the rain is still pounding the ground outside, it’s time to escape to one of the city’s most amazing museums. London is known for its world-class museums. From art to history to science, there’s something for everyone. Here are a few of our favourite museums to explore.

Classic: The National Gallery

If you’re taking our classic tour, jump across to Trafalgar Square and into one of the best museums in the city, The National Gallery. This tour-de-force of a collection is FREE to explore. Inside are some of the most stunningly decorated neoclassical galleries to admire in addition to the actual art. Over 2,300 masterpieces from European artists such as Van Gogh, Botticelli, Turner and da Vinci line the walls. You’ll be able to see up close and in person painting you’ve more than likely encountered countless times in books or online. But nothing compares to walking up to them in real life and seeing the brushstrokes come to life before you. Paintings like the Arnolfini Portrait by Jan van Eyck, Rembrandt‘s Belshazzar’s Feast, the Ugly Duchess and Van Gogh‘s Sunflowers will take your breath away. 

I always advise people not to get overwhelmed by the sheer size of the collection. Take a highlights tour, or simply just one painting in each gallery to explore in more detail. Choose something you’re really drawn to and feel a connection with. This way, you’ll be much more likely to have a meaningful visit. Rather than trying to digest over 2,000 paintings in one short visit.

Artsy: The Wallace Collection

The Wallace Collection is a true gem among London’s many cultural institutions. It is often considered the best museum to visit for art lovers. Housed within a stunning 18th-century townhouse, the Wallace Collection boasts a breathtaking array of art. It includes everything from paintings, sculptures, porcelain, and furniture but is displayed like a living, personal collection rather than a stuffy, curated gallery. Visitors can explore works from renowned artists such as Titian, Rembrandt, and Fragonard. 

The museum itself is a work of art, featuring lavish period-styled rooms and elegant architecture. Stepping into the Wallace Collection feels like stepping back in time. A visit allows guests to immerse themselves in a historical and artistic ambiance.

Unlike some larger, more crowded museums in London, the Wallace Collection offers a more intimate and tranquil setting. Visitors can take their time to admire the art, reflect, and connect with each piece on a deeper level. I love escaping from the rain here, where the lavish, texture wallpaper envelopes me in a warm blanket of awe!

Alternative: Dennis Severs’ House

The Dennis Severs’ House is not your typical museum. Instead, it’s a meticulously recreated 18th-century home that serves as a time capsule. Transporting visitors back in time. As you walk through its rooms, you’re immersed in a world that feels authentically lived-in. As if its occupants just stepped out the front door, returning home any minute. The experience is designed to stimulate all your senses, making it feel like you’ve truly stepped into the past.

Dennis Severs’ House tells a unique and elaborate narrative through its rooms. Capturing the life of the fictional Jervis family, Huguenot silk weavers who once lived there. Each room represents a different moment in the family’s history. Complete with period-appropriate sights, sounds, and even scents. The immersive storytelling encourages visitors to imagine and engage with the house’s history, creating a deep connection to the past.

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I love coming here on a rainy day when the fires are burning in the fireplaces, and you feel an immediate sense of coziness upon crossing the threshold. As you explore, you’ll be aware of the air of mystery about the home. As you move through its spaces, you will uncover hidden details and clues about the family’s life. This sense of discovery makes each visit a unique and engaging experience. The Dennis Severs’ House offers a rare escape from the modern world in a bustling city like London.

For the Kids: The Natural History Museum 

The Natural History Museum is one of London’s most impressive Victorian buildings. Since this museum is FREE to enter, I often come here on rainy days, just to sit inside the awe-inspiring interior. While the museum is for everyone, it focuses on appealing each of their incredible collections to kids. They aim to educate children about the natural world fun and engagingly.

The museum is home to an enormous collection of specimens, artifacts, and interactive exhibits that explore the natural world and its history. One of the most popular attractions for children is the Dinosaurs Gallery. This series of rooms features a range of animatronic dinosaurs, fossils, and interactive displays that bring these ancient creatures to life. Children can also explore the earth galleries, which showcase the planet’s geological history. Including volcanoes, earthquakes, and other natural phenomena. Be sure not to miss exploring the Hintze Hall, which features a suspended blue whale skeleton. Walking underneath this enormous creature, you can truly be in awe of its size and scale!

Warm Up with Market Comfort Food

After a morning of exploring the museum, you’ll likely be ready for a warm and comforting meal. London has no shortage of cozy restaurants where you can indulge in delicious comfort food. But one of my favourite places to go on a rainy day are London’s Food Halls. More than any other city I’ve visited, London has a wealth of indoor Food Halls and Markets where you can find something for any appetite. You can make your meal time an experience going from booth to booth, getting little bites to share so you can try as many different kinds of food as possible!

Classic: Seven Dials Market

For our classic tour, let’s head into one of central London’s most famous historical areas, Seven Dials. Seven Dials, named after the seven streets which converged here, was home to several prominent writers and artists, including Charles Dickens and William Hogarth. They each drew inspiration from the diverse and colourful characters that lived in the area. Although the neighbourhood was once plagued by poverty, crime, and disease, the historic buildings remain today, but the occupants are now upscale brands and classy restaurants.

Hidden within the area is the Seven Dials Market. This covered food hall features over 25 different stalls to choose from. Everything from street food and craft beer to artisanal coffee and fanciful desserts. My top pick for those looking for classic British food is a stop inside Pick & Cheese. This is the first cheese conveyor belt restaurant in the world! Here, you’ll find a myriad of artisanal cheeses from around the UK, paired with a selection of toppings and crackers. Each combination spins around the conveyor belt, enticing hungry guests to devour them. It’s a must-see for cheese lovers. And since Britain makes some of the world’s best cheese, it’s a place to try a few local varieties.

Artsy: Mercato Mayfair

The Mercato Mayfair is an enchanting food hall housed in a restored historic building that was once St. Mark’s Church. This exquisitely renovated space retains much of its original architectural beauty, including stained glass windows and intricate stone details, creating a breathtaking backdrop for its main purpose as a vibrant food market.

The old nave has been cleared out of the pews and instead features a modern cafeteria-style shared-seating dinner room with rainbow-coloured tables. Adding a modern pop of colour to the old Greek revival architecture. The vibrant stalls beckon you in with their array of food from all over the world! From Italian pasta and pizza to Japanese sushi, Mexican street food, and Middle Eastern delicacies, there’s something to satisfy every palate. It’s a true paradise for food enthusiasts eager to explore a world of flavours in one place. And in the basement, you’ll find a small brewery where they make the beer right on-site! Booths have been slotted into the old crypt where you and your friends can escape the rain over a pint of beer or glass of gin.

Alternative: Spitalfields Market

Spitalfields Market is steeped in history inside its 17th-century interior, yet it is located inside the alternative hipster hub in East London! Cobblestone streets and charming Victorian architecture surround it, but inside, this market is home to eclectic boutiques and modern fusion-style food! Spitalfields is the epicentre for alternative artists, designers, and creatives. The market is a treasure trove of artisanal crafts, handmade jewelry, funky artwork, and one-of-a-kind home decor. 

But for our purposes today, we’re here for the food! The market is world-renowned for its passionate street food scene. You can explore a world of culinary delights, with vendors serving everything from gourmet burgers and artisanal sandwiches to international street foods like falafel, dumplings, and more. It’s a paradise for food lovers who enjoy sampling a variety of cuisines. Their modern take on traditional English crumble, from Humble Crumble, is my favourite way to warm up on a rainy day!

For the Kids: The V&A Cafe

Ok, now I know what you might be thinking: another museum? But let me tell you, inside the Victoria and Albert Museum is one of the city’s most amazingly decorated food halls! The V&A is FREE to enter, so just walk inside and make your way to the museum cafe. When I say “museum cafe,” you might be picturing a small, cramped room with bare white walls and stuffy, boring food. Which is the exact opposite of what kids like. But nothing could be further from what you’ll find inside the V&A Cafe.

The V&A Cafe has three sumptuously decorated rooms for diners to enjoy as they escape the rain. Designed by James Gamble, William Morris, and Edward Poynter, the various opulently decorated cafeteria rooms reflect the eclectic tastes of the Victorian era. But they are still enjoyed immensely by guests today. 

And this place has tons of kids inside! So you don’t need to worry about keeping quiet. Many school groups eat here so you won’t feel out of place. The cafe even goes out of its way to cater to kids, offering children specialty lunchtime meal boxes. Perfectly suited for kids’ palettes and appetites. And while the prices might be more inflated than at a small local cafe, you can’t beat the ambiance. But, if you really want to save a few pounds, you can also bring in your own packed lunches. I often stopped by my local Pret-a-Manger on the way to the V&A cafe and enjoyed my packed lunch inside this stunning interior. 

Get Lost in a Bookstore

After lunch, if the rain is still hitting the pavement, there’s no better place to escape than a cozy bookstore. And London is home to some of the world’s most iconic bookstores!

Classic: Marchpane

Cecil Court is a tranquil pedestrian lane adorned with antiquarian bookstores. And nestled within the heart is Marchpane Rare Books—a hidden gem in London’s literary landscape. The spot has been a book lovers’ destination since it opened in 1989. Since then, it has become the premier specialist in vintage children’s and illustrated books and historic London ephemera. Marchpane prides itself in assembling the finest collection of collectible children’s classics such as Winnie-the-Pooh, Peter Pan, The Wind in the Willows and The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe. Perusing the shelves here is like walking through a literary museum with many treasures. Even if you aren’t in the market for vintage literature, the beautiful illustrations inside these books are a classic exploration of Britain’s literary past.

Artsy: Daunt Books Marylebone

A visit to Daunt Books in Marylebone is a delightful journey for artsy book lovers. Located in the heart of Marylebone, this iconic bookstore exudes the dark academic aesthetic with its Edwardian oak galleries, antique stained glass windows, emerald green walls and inviting décor that exudes a sense of literary tradition.

Daunt Books is renowned for specializing in travel literature and hosts an unrivalled collection of travel guides. But for anyone interested in art, these travel books provide so many exciting insights into art from around the world. Pick up any book on the shelves, and you’ll be transported to far-off lands in the dry comfort of the Daunt library. In addition to travel books, Daunt Books offers a curated selection of stationary, making it a one-stop destination for creative and artistic souls.

Alternative: Libreria Bookshop

Libreria Bookshop, located on Hanbury Street, is an avant-garde bookstore that offers a distinctive and immersive experience for book enthusiasts. Libreria’s interior is a masterpiece of design and architecture. Conceived by the innovative studio SelgasCano, the space is characterized by its curved, tunnel-like bright yellow bookshelves that envelop all visitors.

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The bookstore curates a carefully selected collection of books, focusing on quality rather than quantity. Books at Libreria are arranged thematically rather than by traditional genre or author. This allows visitors to discover new and unexpected connections between different works of fiction. This unique approach invites exploration and serendipitous discoveries. You can truly lose a whole day exploring this tranquil and inviting space here.

For the Kids: South Kensington Books

One of my favourite little shopping streets is Thurloe Street in South Kensington. Amongst the rows of elegant, 19th-century Victorian and Georgian buildings, you’ll find the charming entrance to South Kensington Books. South Kensington Books is an independent bookshop open at this site since the 1940s. They have strived for over 75 years to source some of the best British books for their local community. And because Kensington is such a popular spot for families, they always have a wonderful selection of unique British children’s books. I found many beautifully illustrated books here that delighted the little ones back home. Since the store is small enough, you can let the kids explore on their own without worrying they’re get lost, like in the larger, chain bookshops. This way, they can find something they’re interested in while you can peruse something for yourself!

Explore London’s Most Interesting Shopping Stops

When you can’t go out and enjoy the sights on a rainy day, it’s the perfect time to hit the shops! London is known for its incredible shopping, and there are plenty of indoor destinations where you can stay dry while discovering all the wonders London stores offer.

Classic: Covent Garden Apple Market

Covent Garden opened its first fruit and vegetable market in the 17th century. The fruit and veg have gone today, but it’s a popular shopping destination. Under the beautiful Georgian-covered arcade, you’ll find the Covent Garden Apple Market. But you won’t find any actual apples; instead, you can discover a series of stalls featuring artisanal craft, charming boutiques, and one-of-a-kind antiques. You can find plenty here if you’re interested in jewelry, artwork, clothing, or unique gifts! If you’re a tourist, the Apple Market is where you can find many locally crafted souvenirs that make for special mementos for your trip to London.

Artsy: Liberty London

If you’re looking to explore one of London’s most fantastic department stores, which specializes in amazing artistic pieces, you need to check out Liberty London. Liberty is an iconic department store in the heart of London, known for its stunning architectural features. The building itself is a work of art. Walking up towards it, you’re immediately struck by its amazing and intricate Tudor-style timber façade. 

But inside is where the real magic happens… Liberty has a carefully curated selection of home decor, fashions, textiles and ceramics. Their merchandise often collaborates with renowned British fashion designers and artists to create exclusive collections. If you’re interested in wearable arty items, you’ll find a range of clothing and accessories that reflect the creativity of leading British designers. Liberty London‘s commitment to quality, craftsmanship, and artistic design makes it a must-visit destination for art lovers. And on a rainy day in London, the fantastical interior of this department store makes it an even more unique and amazing experience. 

Alternative: Brick Lane Vintage Market

The Brick Lane Vintage Market, deep in the heart of East London, is a treasure trove for vintage enthusiasts. The old Truman Brewery has been transformed into a bustling underground vintage clothing market. Stepping down the stairs, you enter into a labyrinth of individual boutiques selling vintage and retro clothing from every decade!

Whether it’s glamorous fur coats, vintage bridal wear, men’s suits, or vinyl records, there are so many amazing discoveries to be made. The diversity of sellers adds to the treasure hunt that is a vintage shopping experience!

For the Kids: Hamley’s

Hamley’s Toy Store is one of the most iconic places to bring your kids in London. Hamleys is world famous, holding the honour of being the world’s oldest toy store! The store opened in 1760 as a toy shop specializing in Noah’s Ark sets. It has expanded across seven floors, covering over 50,000 square feet. It is the oldest toy store and the world’s largest.

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But Hamleys is not just any toy store; it’s a magical and enchanting world with live demonstrations, interactive displays, and fun activities that the kids can participate in. Regardless of whether you buy anything or not! 

The Coziest London Restaurants

London’s dining scene is wonderfully diverse, offering a range of cozy spots perfect for those grey, rainy evenings. When you’re looking for a great place to dine on a chilly, rainy night, you’re looking for somewhere that combines comfort, warmth, and delightful cuisine. Well, we’ve got you covered.

Classic: Clos Maggiore

Dinner at Clos Maggiore is like stepping into a fairy tale. The restaurant is a magical oasis often celebrated as one of the city’s most romantic dining spots. Tucked away in the bustling heart of Covent Garden, this enchanting restaurant wraps you in an atmosphere of warmth and elegance the moment you walk through the door. Imagine dining under a canopy of twinkling lights and lush flowers, with a cozy fireplace adding to the intimate ambiance. It’s a place that feels like a secret garden, perfect for special occasions or just when you want to add a sprinkle of magic to your dining experience on a rainy night.

The cuisine at Clos Maggiore is a delightful fusion of contemporary French influences, from the delicate flavours of their starters to the rich and sumptuous mains. Every bite is a celebration of culinary excellence. And let’s not forget the wine – their extensive list has something to complement every dish perfectly. Enhancing the already sublime dining experience. It’s one of the pricey options in London, but the experience that comes with it makes the splurge a worthy investment.

Artsy: Chiltern Firehouse

Chiltern Firehouse effortlessly merges historic elegance with a modern twist, making it a standout destination for those on an artsy London itinerary. This former Victorian fire station charms with its vibrant yet intimate ambiance, offering a glimpse into a stylishly reimagined past. The interior is a visual delight, featuring high ceilings, exposed brickwork, and grand arched windows, complemented by plush, luxurious seating. The blend of industrial chic and opulent design creates an eclectic and visually stimulating setting, ideal for those who appreciate art and architecture.

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The culinary experience at Chiltern Firehouse is as exceptional as its surroundings. The menu showcases contemporary interpretations of classic dishes, with a strong emphasis on seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. Each plate is a work of art, marrying bold flavours with the artistic presentation, reflecting the creativity of the kitchen.

Alternative: Gunpowder Spitalfields

If you’re in the mood for some seriously good modern Indian food, you’ve got to check out Gunpowder in Spitalfields. This place is a gem for anyone who loves a twist on classic Indian recipes. Tucked away near the lively Spitalfields market, Gunpowder has this cozy, kinda rustic vibe that’s all about chill sophistication and amazing flavours.

The menu is all about sharing and trying new things. Think small plates packed with big tastes, perfect for passing around the table. You’ve got to try their unique takes on street food and regional faves – like their mind-blowing spicy venison and vermicelli doughnut or the tangy mustard broccoli. Plus, they keep things fresh and exciting with seasonal updates, so there’s always something new to taste, depending on what’s in season. Trust me, a meal here is like an alternative adventure for your taste buds!

For the Kids: Dishoom Covent Garden

Dishoom Covent Garden, inspired by the old Irani cafés of Bombay, is a vibrant and welcoming spot perfect for large families. The restaurant’s chic decor creates a warm and inviting atmosphere for a cold and rainy evening. The aromatic spices from the kitchen and the gentle buzz of conversation add to its lively yet cozy ambiance. Dishoom offers a unique take on Indian cuisine with a menu that blends traditional Bombay flavours with a modern twist, creating a diverse and compelling culinary experience. 

While Iranian cuisine might seem inaccessible for most kids, this restaurant prides itself on serving delicious food for kids and adults alike, no matter how familiar they are with Iranian food. While kids can enjoy everything off the regular menu, they also have a special chote (little) menu for kids with smaller portions, very little spice, but just as nice.

Evening Entertainment

After a full day of exploring London’s rainless interiors, there’s nothing like settling in for a good movie or one of London’s fantastical theatre shows! Or if you’re into keeping active, there are plenty of entertaining experiences to be had indoors!

Classic: Les Mis

The Sondheim Theatre is home to London’s most renowned, longest-running musical, Les Mis. Although it’s set in France and written by famed French author Victor Hugo, Les Misérables became one of the most popular musicals when it was adapted into English by producer Cameron Mackintosh. The show opened in London in October 1985 and has remained a steadfast symbol of theatre in the West End. The epic musical features a captivating story of love, self-sacrifice, and redemption set against the backdrop of post-revolutionary France. Les Misérables is always a classic choice due to its universal appeal, timeless music, and emotional depth.

Artsy: Curzon Soho

The Curzon Soho, also known as the Curzon Cinema in Soho, is an art-house cinema which screens a diverse range of films that often include independent, foreign, and arthouse options. It caters to film enthusiasts looking for unique and thought-provoking cinema experiences. The cinema was recently renovated and now features a stylish, modern interior with plush, comfortable seating and contemporary decor. If you’re looking to experience one of the most popular alternative movie-going experiences, this is the spot to be!

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Alternative: Bounce (Ping-Pong Bar)

Bounce is a funky ping-pong bar in Shoreditch that combines entertainment, sports, food, and drinks! Making it a sought-after destination for those seeking a memorable and unique night out. Bounce provides guests with a lively and engaging environment for anyone, regardless of their skill level. You can reserve tables in advance to enjoy a casual game with friends or for more competitive play with other guests. But Bounce is not just a ping pong venue; it also has a fully stocked bar. The bar serves a variety of cocktails, craft beers and wines. This is one of those alternative underground hot spots that you might not imagine could be just as incredibly fun as it is!

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For the Kids: The Lion King

The Lyceum Theatre has been home to the world-famous musical “The Lion King” for years, and there is a good reason it’s stuck around for so long. “The Lion King” is one of the world’s most beloved and iconic musicals, based on the Disney animated film of the same name. But the stage adaptation of the musical is a breathtaking production. The show features intricate costumes, elaborate masks, and life-sized puppets of animals that bring the show to life like nothing else. The stage comes alive with vibrant colours and dynamic performances that bring the African savannah to life in front of your eyes. It’s a must-see show for those looking to be transported to the Pride Lands and be immersed in the world of Simba, Timon, Pumbaa, and the entire cast of memorable characters. While it’s more for the kids, adults will love the experience just as much!

Where to Get a Drink!

After your evening’s entertainment, if you’ve still got the energy, the best place to wind down on a rainy night is inside a cozy pub or tavern. And don’t worry; I’ve even got a late-night spot perfect for the kids.

Classic: Sherlock Holmes Pub

As the name suggests, the Sherlock Holmes Pub is dedicated to the iconic detective, Sherlock Holmes. The immersive decor brings visitors into the world of Holmes with dark wood panelling, vintage wallpaper, Victorian memorabilia, and period artifacts that transport you to 221B Baker Street.

The Sherlock Holmes Pub is a cozy place to sample various local beers and ales, where you can pull up your pint next to a recreation of Holme’s detective office. The atmosphere is infectious and is a great place to while the night away.

Artsy: The Fitzroy Tavern

The Fitzroy Tavern is a historic pub with a rich history dating back to the 1880s! The old pub was frequented by famous literary figures like George Orwell, Dylan Thomas, and George Bernard Shaw. The pub was a gathering place for the Fitzrovia Group, a circle of bohemian artists, writers, and intellectuals who lived and worked in the Fitzrovia area during the 1920s and 1930s. The artistic history of this pub makes it the perfect spot for art lovers to hide away from the rain while enjoying a hearty pint of ale.

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Alternative: Simmons Bar

If you’re looking for a retro and quirky bar, you can’t go wrong with Simmons Bar on Old Street. Simmons Bars are known for their retro and eclectic decor, and the Old Street branch is no exception. The bar is adorned with vintage and mismatched furniture, retro wallpaper, old-school lampshades, and quirky knick-knacks. The nostalgic atmosphere takes you back in time, creating a unique and memorable setting.

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The bar is known for its fun signature cocktails served in teapots, making for a whimsical experience. They also offer a variety of beers, wines, and spirits to cater to different tastes. The atmosphere at Simmons Bar is lively and welcoming, and you’ll walk away feeling like you’ve attended a blow-out 1980’s party!

For the Kids: Chin Chin Dessert Club

On a rainy evening in London, a warm cup of hot cocoa is the best thing for kids. And the best place to have a great one is the Chin Chin Dessert Club! While the shop might be best known for its ice cream, it also offers unique and exciting hot chocolate flavours. Their signature Chin Chin Hot Chocolate has a gooey marshmallow fluff on top! But they also have seasonal variations like their Snowball Cookie Hot Chocolate.

As our journey through London’s rainy day wonders comes to an end, we hope you feel inspired and ready to embrace those grey skies with a newfound sense of adventure. Remember, a drizzle in London is simply nature’s way of adding a little extra sparkle to the city’s magnificence. So, grab your umbrella and step out with a smile. Whether you’re meandering through historical galleries or browsing eclectic market stalls, there’s always something uniquely delightful to discover in this city, rain or shine.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Best Rainy Day Itineraries In London: Marvelous Museums & Markets first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

This summer, while living in Barcelona, I had the chance to review Art Ticket Barcelona. And I must say this pass is the perfect thing for any art lover. If you plan on visiting any three of Barcelona’s premiere museums listed on the Art Ticket Barcelona, then you’ve already paid for the pass in one go. And with the pass, you might be pushed to discover some museums and galleries you might never have thought of seeing before. But many of these might open your eyes to works of art you will come to have a deep appreciation for.

Table Of Contents

1. About the Art Ticket BCN
2. #1. Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya
3. #2. Fundació Joan Miró
4. #3. Museu Picasso
5. #4. The Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona
6. #5. The Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona
7. #6.

About the Art Ticket BCN

Barcelona Art Passport invites you to take a fascinating journey through the art at the six best museums in Barcelona. Discover the finest collection of Romanesque mural paintings in the world, enjoy Modernisme and be surprised by the most contemporary art and creation at the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya, the Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona and the Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona. The universes of Miró, Picasso and Tàpies await you as you embark upon this unique experience. The most obvious benefit of these passes is that you will save 45% off the normal admission price. But you also get to skip the line, which can be a real-time saver, especially in the busier summer months. The pass is also valid for 12 months, so if you plan on returning, it is easily spread out over a longer period.

How it Works

The best way to purchase the Articket is online. Once you’ve purchased your ticket online, simply exchange it for your Barcelona Art Passport at the ticket desk of any Articket museum. Then enjoy the experience of seeing the best art in Barcelona!

As someone who loves pieces of ephemera, I was so gleeful when I saw them stamp my actual art passport in each museum I visited. I loved collecting all the stamps as we went!

If you’re unfamiliar with some of the museums and galleries on this list and are considering buying the pass, I’ve given you all the details about each museum. As well as some of my favourite artworks in each space. This piece better helps you understand the culture and history of the Catalan people, as well as the artistic movements that put Spain and Barcelona on the map!

#1. Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya

The Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya sits in the towering Palau Nacional that looks over the city like an artful guard tower. The Palau National was the piece-de-resistance of Barcelona’s 1929 International Exhibition, so even just visiting the museum building itself is an experience. The Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya is the largest museum in Barcelona. It exhibits the world’s finest collection of Romanesque murals. Included in the collection are some fantastic paintings by influential Spanish painters El Greco and Diego Velázquez. It is also a wonderful place to visit to see beautiful examples of Catalan Modernism, with works by Gaudí. To end the experience, head to the roof, where you can enjoy 360º views of Barcelona.

Frescos of Church of Sant Climent de Taüll

The most important artworks to see in the museum are the Romanesque frescos. These incredibly preserved artworks from the Church of Sant Climent de Taüll were painted 1000 years ago! If they had been left in their original location they would have been lost to the ages, but art collectors and historians managed to move the fresco, by striping them off the walls and reproducing the exact same architectural details of the original churches here inside the museum. Here they will rest for ages to come in an environment which will assure their safety for hundreds of years to come. These frescoes are still as vibrant and the faces of the people painted on them still astonishingly emotive. It’s amazing to see the amount of colours used throughout and makes the world of thousands of years ago that much more amazing.

The Spanish Wedding by Marià Fortuny

Going ahead a few hundred years in Spain, we find ourselves in the middle of Catalan Modernism. Marià Fortuny is one of the most important Spanish artists of his era. He is best known for his incredibly detailed paintings, which provide an almost photo-realistic view of what life would live looked like in Spain in the 1800s. In this painting, we see the scene of a wedding party assembled to sign a wedding contract. Surrounding the group are textiles and furnishings which give us a glimpse in the styles popular at the time. Seated to the right of the wedding party are lower class groups of lower class people, highlighted with a bull-fighter in full regalia.

Address: Parc de Montjuïc, 08038 Barcelona
Hours: From 10 am to 6 pm, from Tuesday to Saturday.
Until 8 pm, from May to September.
From 10 am to 3 pm, Sunday and public holidays.
Closed: Mondays (except public holidays), Jan 1st, May 1st, Dec 25th

#2. Fundació Joan Miró

The Fundació Joan Miró is an internationally renowned museum where visi­tors can enjoy and learn more about Joan Miró. Joan Miró’s imaginative and abstract art, characterized by playful shapes, vibrant colours, and dreamlike symbolism, blurs the lines between reality and fantasy, incorporating elements from his Catalan heritage and personal experiences. He was a pioneer in surrealism and contributed significantly to 20th-century modern art. 

The Fundació is an exceptional building designed by the architect Josep Lluís Sert. It stands inside the Parc de Montjuïc, and you can enjoy magnificent views over Barcelona. So even a trip up here will provide you more than just a visit to a museum but also a fantastic view of the city.

Catalan peasant in the moonlight

Catalan Peasant in Moonlight evokes two recurring themes within Miró’s body of work: the connection between humanity and the earth, symbolized by the peasant figure, and the mystical allure of the night, represented by the moonlight. The fusion of man and the earth becomes evident through the shared use of the colour red, both for the peasant’s face and the exposed portions of the landscape. However, in Miró’s artistic universe, the boundaries between sky and earth blur, highlighting their interdependence. This interplay results in a harmonious exchange: the peasant’s attire adopts the hues of the night, while the sky assumes the tones of the field. Additionally, the moon’s shape hints at a sickle, imparting a poetic layer of meaning to the scene.

Pair of Lovers Playing with Almond Blossoms

During the 1970s, Miró began to explore larger and more ambitious sculptural projects, receiving notable commissions for outdoor pieces, which he enthusiastically embraced. Pair of Lovers Playing with Almond Blossoms embodies a minimalist approach, featuring simple shapes adorned with vibrant colours, suggesting that the larger sculpture closely adhered to the smaller original model. The artwork portrays two abstract figures within an enigmatic, perhaps surrealist, realm.

One figure is a tall cylinder with yellow and reddish sections, crowned by a blue spherical shape embellished with prehistoric-style abstract motifs imbued with symbolic significance. The second figure is a tall structure with a pointed blue element leaning away, accented by a red, claw-like feature around its midpoint. This element could be interpreted as a hand reaching out to catch the ball perched atop the other figure, though further exploration is required for a definitive interpretation.

Address: Parc de Montjuïc s/n, 08038 Barcelona
Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday, from April to October, from 10 am to 8 pm
Thursday, from 10 am to 9 pm
Saturday, from 10 am to 8 pm
Sunday and public holidays, from 10 am to 3 pm
Closed: Mon (except public holidays)

#3. Museu Picasso

The Museu Picasso of Barcelona is the reference centre for Pablo Picasso’s formative years. The 4,355 works of the Muse­um’s permanent collection reveal the genius of the young artist. The Picasso Museum of Barcelona is filled with a piece of Picasso’s work before he discovered Cubism, but many of which lend hints of what’s to come. Some people might be disappointed not to see any of his more famous pieces, but I think this collection is unique and truly personal to this city. We’ve all seen, at least in photographs, most of Picasso’s classic paintings, but these hidden gems are something you’ll only find in Barcelona. And they give us a glimpse of a young, burgeoning Picasso.

Science and Charity

At first glance, Science and Charity looks like it was painted by Goya or Fortuny. You’d never have imagined that a painting with such attention to realistic detail and subtle tones would be from the same man who later was defined by primitive geometric shapes and powerful colours. As a child, Picasso was a prodigy, and his father encouraged him to enter this piece into a competition, launching his career into the stars, where it would only expand from there.

Las Meninas Series

Pablo Picasso’s series of paintings based on Diego Velázquez’s masterpiece “Las Meninas” is a notable example of his exploration of art history through reinterpretation and reinvention. Picasso created a total of 58 paintings, drawings, and studies inspired by Velázquez’s iconic work between 1957 and 1961. In these reinterpretations, Picasso reimagined the characters and elements of Velázquez’s composition in his distinctive Cubist style, which he had pioneered earlier in the 20th century.

The original “Las Meninas” depicts members of the Spanish royal court, with a young princess at the center and various attendants and courtiers around her. Velázquez’s painting is celebrated for its complexity, use of mirrors, and exploration of perspective. In Picasso’s versions, he fragmented and deconstructed the figures, reshaping them into abstract and geometric forms. Faces became masks, and bodies dissolved into angular and overlapping planes. Picasso’s reinterpretations play with the viewer’s perception of space, form, and identity, challenging traditional notions of representation in art.

Address: Fundació Museu Picasso of Barcelona, Montcada 15-23
Hours: Tuesday to Sundays: 9am to 7pm (including holidays)
Thursday: until 9.30pm
Monday: 10am to 5 pm (from July 24 to September 25)
Closed: 1st Jan, 1st May, 24th June and 25th Dec.
On 24th and 31st Dec museum closes at 2.00pm.

#4. The Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona

The Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona, commonly known as MACBA, is the most prominent contemporary art museum in Barcelona. The MACBA Collection consists of artworks produced by artists from Catalonia, Spain, and around the world, primarily from 1960 to the present day. These collections encompass a diverse array of artistic mediums and materials, encompassing painting, sculpture, drawing, collage, assemblage, objects, installations, audiovisual creations, and sound recordings, among various other artistic forms and expressions.

Self Portrait, Jean-Michel Basquiat

Basquiat’s self-portrait is a highly charged piece with many influences and expressions. Basquiat himself was highly inspired by Spanish painter Pablo Picasso’s work, which is especially evident in this work. He combines dynamic use of colour and abstract forms to convey layered meanings throughout his paintings. Basquiat was one of the first “graffiti” artists to make this type of work considered “good enough” to make it into the galleries and now is considered one of the seminal artists in the neo-expressionist pop movement. The brush strokes and colours used throughout the piece convey such emotion and, in this piece, anger; it is hard to view the piece without becoming enraged yourself.

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Barrière, Jaume Xifra

Jaume Xifra was a famous Catalan Conceptual artist. In 1959, he fled to France to escape the dictatorship. And it was here in France where he would pour his traumatic experiences into a new form of art. Xifra worked with cheap materials and objects to critique the world of consumerism. ‘BARRIÈRE’ is Xifra’s commentary on the police’s control over the people. A barrier, a device supposedly used to protect pedestrians, is here covered in barbed wire. Putting the supposed pedestrians at risk and creating an even more violent separation of the people from the state.

Address: Plaça dels Àngels, 1, 08001 Barcelona
Hours: From 11 am to 7.30 pm, Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday.
Until 8 pm, from June 24th until September 25th.
From 10 am to 9 pm, Saturday.
From 10 am to 3 pm, Sunday and public holidays.
Closed: Tue (except public holidays), Jan 1st, Dec 25th

#5. The Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona

The Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona (CCCB) is a vibrant cultural center dedicated to contemporary culture and the arts. It serves as a multidisciplinary space where various forms of artistic expression, including visual arts, music, literature, film, and digital culture, converge. Unlike the other museums on this list, the CCCB hosts a diverse range of exhibitions and installations that explore contemporary themes, trends, and issues. These exhibitions often incorporate innovative approaches and multimedia elements, encouraging visitors to engage with contemporary art and culture in thought-provoking ways. But the program is always changing as there is not a permanent collection.

When we visited, the exhibition on display was titled “Sade: Freedom or Evil.” This exhibition explored the contemporary cultural, philosophical, and political impact of the Marquis de Sade. De Sade’s writings are seen as both liberating and corrupting, embodying a philosophy of freedom and evil simultaneously. The exhibition delves into his influence on artists and intellectuals, as well as his role as an icon in mass culture. Although the exhibition was pretty confronting, it was by far one of the best-curated art exhibitions I have seen in years. So I can confidently say that any exhibition you come to see here is bound to be of the highest quality.

Address: C/Montalegre 5, 08001 Barcelona
Hours: From 11 am to 8 pm, from Tuesday to Sunday and public holidays.
Closed: Mon (except public holidays), Jan 1st, Dec 25th

#6.

 houses a large collection of artworks by Antoni Tàpies. And the foundation was created to promote knowledge of modern art. Many people don’t even know who Antoni Tàpies is, but learning all about him is a great way to spend a breezy afternoon. The foundation is housed in a modernist building designed by architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner. And the building is an architectural gem in its own right. 

For those unfamiliar with Tapies, he is one of the greatest Catalan artists. His father was a lawyer and Catalan nationalist who influenced his cultural and political identity. Tàpies initially studied law, but his artistic inclinations led him to pursue art at the Acadèmia Valls in Barcelona. His early works were influenced by Surrealism and Catalan artists like Joan Miró. Especially once you’ve visited the Joan Miró foundations, you can see how closely he was tied to the works of Tapies.

Earth on Canvas

Tàpies is famous for his ‘pintura matèrica’ style, where he often incorporated a wide range of materials, including found objects, mixed media, and unconventional materials like sand, string, and marble dust. àpies had a deep fascination with the materiality of art. His paintings are characterized by their textured surfaces, as he used thick layers of paint and collage elements to create tactile, three-dimensional effects.

Address: C/ Aragó 255, 08007 Barcelona
Hours: Tuesday / Wednesday / Thursday / Saturday: 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Friday: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Sunday, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Closed: Mon, public holidays, Jan 1st and 6th, Dec 25th

With so many museums to see, it’s always nice to be able to save a few bucks where you can. With Articket Barcelona, you get access to all six museums for only 38€, a savings of 45% off the normal price of admission. And with this ticket, you’ll find that you’re more inclined to visit some museums you might not have thought to see and experience something unexpected.

The post An Honest Review of Art Ticket Barcelona, A Guide to the Most Amazing Museums first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Day One – The Highlights

St. Mark’s Square

The best place to start your tour is standing in the centre of the Piazza San Marco or St. Mark’s Square. Arrive here as early as you can bear. There is something truly magical about being here as the sun rises on the square. You’ll see the beautiful rose-gold sunlight begin to kiss the cobblestone and bricks around you. The sun seems to bring the square to life as cafe owners begin taking out their chairs and pigeons flock around gawking tourists (but don’t feed them, this is now illegal in Venice!)

Standing in the centre of the square, in front of the Basilica, you can turn around 360 degrees and see one spectacular scene on top of another. In this one small area, you’ll find the St Mark’s Basilica, the great Campanile (Belltower), the Procuratie, the Piazzetta, Doge’s Palace, Bridge of Sighs and Torre dell’ Orologio. There is rarely a time when you’ll visit the square when they aren’t some form of construction or renovation going on. With all these historic sights in one place, there is bound to be something falling apart and needing repair. Try to look past that and don’t like it ruin your experience.

Saint Mark

The square is named after the patron saint of Venice, Saint Mark. In 828, a relic of St. Mark was stolen from Alexandria and brought back to Venice by La Serenissima‘s great naval fleet. The Venetian Doge, awed by the acquisition of this precious relic, adopted Saint Mark as the new patron of Venice (whose honour had previously been given to Saint Theodore).

A city with a saintly relic immediately rose in power and prestige. Relics were the first tourist attraction of the medieval world. Pilgrims would come from all over the world to pray at the churches who preserved these relics. Pilgrims, much as tourists today, needed food and shelter and therefore brought lots of money into the city.

Piazza San Marco

A grand church to house the precious artifact began to be built in 836. The church and the nearby Doge’s palace were, even back then, the highlight of the city for visitors. And a great square was needed to further showcase the opulence the Doge wanted to project. In 1172 orchards were demolished surrounding this area and the Piazza San Marco was built. It’s been rumoured that upon visiting St. Mark’s square for the first time, Napoleon himself degreed that it was, “the drawing room of Europe“.

The Procuratie

The simplistic and yet elegant buildings along the north and south sides of the square are called the Procuratie. The Procuratie is most identifiable by its stunning arcade that wraps around this side of the square. The arcade features Byzantine arches, which are distinct for their tall and narrow structure.

The Procuratie buildings are actually three connected structures that once served as the offices of the Venetian Republic, also called La Serenissima. Today they house the Correr Museum, the Museum of the Risorgimento, and the Archeological Museum. Each one of these is an incredible place to visit but the Correr Museum is my favourite with their collection of art detailing the histories of the city of Venice.

The Lion of Venice

Throughout St. Mark’s square you’ll see various Lions of Venice, adorning doorways, columns and facades. The Lion of Venice is usually seen with his paw upon a bible as he is not just any lion, but St. Mark’s Lion. St. Mark was often referred to as a lion since he would preach the word of the lord so powerfully it almost seemed like a roar. Legend tells that St. Mark was travelling through Europe when he arrived in Venice and an angel spoke to him and told him that this place would be where his body would come to rest for eternity. His remains were originally interred in Alexandra but moved to Venice where the church was built to honour them.

Caffe Florian

Now housed inside one of the old Procuratie buildings is perhaps the most sumptuous cafes in Venice, or perhaps Europe itself. Although this cafe is by no means cheap, it’s a splurge that I think is worth it for the incredible interiors and history to be found within. The Caffe Florian was founded in 1720 and has served patrons like Charles Dickens and Lord Byron. There is a 6 euro cover charge to even enter the cafe, but along with getting to enjoy the lavish interiors, you’ll also be treated to a live orchestra which plays throughout the cafe. Palacial red velvet couches and chairs are spread out across the huge cafe, dotted throughout various antechambers. Each room is covered in ornate paintings, large Murano glass mirrors, gold foiled frames and intricate painting plastered to the ceiling.

To save a bit of money here, go right to the bar and order your food or drinks there. Although you won’t get a seat, the bar menu is vastly cheaper than the table service. An espresso at the bar will run you €5 but again, you’re here for the atmosphere. If you’d rather save your coin you can give this a miss for sure. Instead grab a coffee on your way in towards St. Mark’s square from any local cafe, to enjoy while you peruse the sights.

The Campanile

Standing guard in the centre of the square is the 323ft tall Campanile or Belltower. The low-level buildings throughout Venice are in stark contrast to the towering Campanile. Its little head pokes out at you no matter where you seem to end up in Venice. While the original tower was built in 1514, the current one is a reconstruction from 1912 after it’s collapse in 1902. It’s an incredible thing to imagine that such a tall structure could survive for so long-standing atop the shifting waters. But it wasn’t water which proved to be the biggest enemy of the tower, it was lighting. Lightning struck the tower multiple times over the years causing enormous fires and severe internal damage to the structure.

The tall base of the tower is designed with a fluted shaft that reaches up towards the belfry. Along one corner, one each side of the tower, are stacked arched windows looking out over the square. Inside the belfry are five large bells. Each one was used to call the people of Venice to attention. The bells have their own distinctive name and special significance. The Renghiera bell announced executions; the Mezza Terza would declare that a session of the Senate was taking place; the Nona sounded the midday hour; the Trottiera was used to assemble the Maggiore Consiglio and the Marangona, the largest of the bells, rang to mark the beginning and end of the working day.  

The Tower’s Crown

Above the arches of the belfry is another level of brickwork decorated with various sculptures on either side. On one side you’ll see the Lion of St. Mark and on the other the female representation of Venice, in the shape of the lady Justice. The golden weathervane which crowns the tower is the angel Gabriel, reaching out towards the citizens below.

Torre Dell’Orologio

Turn to the north-east corner of the square, and look up at the bright blue and gold details decorating the Torre Dell’Orologio. The morning light, the sunlight simply glints off the golden dial. The clock was built in the 15th century when mechanical clocks were a symbol of wealth and power. The clock faces out towards the water so that any foreign ships would be able to see it from the canals as they past through.

Atop the tower containing the clock, you can see two small bronze figures who carry large hammers in their hand which move upon the hour to strike the bell. One of the figures is a young man and the other an old man to symbolize the passage of time. Once more we see the image of the Lion of Venice above the clock, set against a blue sky of golden stars. Below the lion is the figure of the Virgin Mary with the baby Jesus wrapped in her arms. On either side of her are two blue panels with the time represented in roman numerals on the left and in Arabic numerals on the right, as was traditional at the time when the Byzantine influences were ripe throughout Italy.

The Zodiac Symbols on the Clock

The most impressive feature of the clock is the blue and gold engraved clock face with fantastically detailed signs of the zodiac encircling it. The large dial on the clock is set with the huge face of the sun. The dial, emblazed with the image of the sun, revolves around the zodiac signs and rather than showing the time, it marks the date. In the centre is a small gold orb representing the sun and below it, a smaller orb representing the phases of the moon.

St Mark’s Basilica

St. Mark’s Basilica is famously one of the most precious Byzantine treasures of the time. Within it, preserved by time, are so many aspects of history, art culture and faith. The most notable element of the design of the church are the powerful domes that are set against the sky. The bulb-shaped domes with their finials lanterns give the church that middle eastern appearance and character which defined the Byzantine period.

The exterior of St. Mark’s Basilica can be studied by its three distinctive areas; the lower level, upper level and the domes. The lower level mosaics are all scenes from the life of Saint Mark, for whom the church derives its name. In the central arch where the enormous doorway is located there is the largest mosaic which depicts the Last Judgment. The original mosaic would have been made in the 13th century but this current incarnation from the 19th-century. The portals which lead into the church are stacked with various colours of marble, creating a foreshortening perspective effect. Like you are being pulled into the church.

Mosaics of St. Mark’s Basilica

On either side of the central portal, the mosaics each depict the life of St. Mark. The first one on the left is the only one on the façade still surviving from the 13th century. The lunettes above the first floor depict the life of Christ. The lower level features dozens of marble columns. These rich columns are decorated in sumptuous vegetal motifs.

The Bronze Horses

The upper-level balcony, above the main entrance, also features four bronze horses. There are the Horses of Saint Mark-Lysippos and were stolen from Constantinople in 1252. The ones outside the church today are actually replicas of the original horses, as the originals were suffering terribly from the elements. They were brought inside the church museum in order to preserve them for years to come. The original bronze horses date all the way back to classical antiquity. It is rumoured that perhaps they once were positioned pulling an emperors chariot atop the Arch of Trajan in Rome. The Horses were one of the many trophies collected during the Crusades.

Above the horses, the ogee arch is decorated with blue glass and golden stars. In fro of this starry sky is the gilded winged lion, the symbol of Venice. Above the great lion, standing brightly against the blue sky, are Saint Mark and his six angels.

Entering St. Mark’s Basilica

If you are interested in going inside the Basilica, be warned the queue can get very long. But if you want to save yourself a bit of time you can book a timed entry ticket online that only costs €6.00. Well worth it, in my opinion, to be sure you are the first one in the door, leaving the rest of your day completely open.

If you don’t buy your ticket in advance, you will have to line up. The wait time is, on average, about 45 minutes but the earlier you arrive in the morning, the less of a line you’ll run into. When we arrived, early in the day, the line moved swiftly and we barely had to wait at all. But of course, this depends on the time of year you visit.

Interior Mosaics

Upon entering the church the first thing you’ll notice is the overwhelming amount of golden mosaics covering the floor, all the way up to the domed ceiling. There are over 85,000 square feet of mosaics in St. Mark’s Basilica. The light reflects off the surface of the glass and depending on the time of the day, the light changes the effect and the appearance of the interior. So depending on when you visit you might get a different experience from someone else. So much gold was used in its construction of the church that the residents of Venice would call it the Chizea d’Oro or, the Gold Church.

Because the Basilica was built during the Byzantine age, and architectural methods weren’t as advanced as they are now, you’ll notice large thick walls, hundreds of columns and the heavy use of marble. They needed only the strongest of materials to help keep the multi-domed ceiling standing.

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Inside the church are the treasures of the fourth crusade on the holy land. During the 4th-century crusade, Venice deemed itself the holiest place on earth. And therefore all the treasures the crusading armies found were brought to Venice. One such treasure is the Pala d’Oro. The Pala d’Oro is decorated with 1,300 pearls, 300 emeralds, 300 sapphires, 400 garnets, 100 amethysts, plus rubies and topazes. A glittering masterpiece.

Porta Della Carta

Coming back out of the church, into St Mark’s square, be sure to take a moment to study the Porta della Carta on the side of the church. In 1442 this was the ceremonial entrance to the church was built to connect the church to the Doge’s Palace. The doorway is dripping in gothic ornamentation, with two tall, thin pinnacles flanking either side of the statue of the Doge Francesco Foscari. The Doge is seen kneeling before the Lion of Saint Mark. Below each pinnacle is are statues of cardinal virtues.  

Doge’s Palace

A Venetian Doge is something that many of you may not have heard of before. A Doge is pretty much like an English Duke, they served as the leader of the Republic of Venice from 726 to 1797. The Doge would rule over Venice from his seat of power inside the incredible Doge’s Palace. Today the building serves a public museum.

The building itself is a wonder to behold. Despite the enormity of the upper structure, it looks almost weightless as it is supported by the delicate pink Verona marble columns. The columns are decorated with a lacy pattern, making them look even more fragile. The top of the building is adorned with spiked merlons and looks like frosted meringue atop a cake.

Walk through the arcade and study the individual capitals of the columns on the right side.

Piazzetta 

Past the Basilica, walking south towards the water, you can find the Piazzetta. The Piazzetta is the smaller square to the south. In the middle of the square are two large two columns, made in red marble. Between these two columns is where death sentences were announced during the medieval ages.

At the top of the columns are two statues, each depicting one of the patron saints of Venice; St Mark and St Theodore, on the left and right respectively if you’re facing the water. St. Mark is depicted as the winged lion of Venice and St. Theodore can be seen standing atop, of all things, a crocodile. In his hand, he also holds a spear which we can assume he used to slay the giant crocodile. Saint Theodore is more commonly known for slaying a dragon, not a crocodile, but perhaps the Venetians artists of the time who made this carving had little knowledge of what a real dragon looked like, so instead, they simply carved the next best thing, a crocodile.

The Bridge of Sighs

Walk around the Doge’s Palace until you turn to face the Bridge of Sighs. The bridge of sighs created to join the interrogation rooms of the Doge’s Palace to the prison across the canal. If you were found guilty by the Serenissima you were set to the prison, but upon crossing the bridge, were allowed to look out at Venice one last time. Two small, square windows on the bridge allowed prisoners this one moment of reflection, before facing their possible lifetime of imprisonment. The bridge’s windows are covered in a tightly knit wrought iron bars, so no one could escape.

Day Two – Exploring the Hidden Canals

Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo

Continue heading north until you reach the Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. This small palazzo has become an iconic viewpoint in Venice. The palazzo’s incredible, honeycomb-like spiral staircase, with a fantastic balcony at the top, provides one of the most amazing views across the city, and over St. Mark’s square. The staircase is called the “Scala Contarini del Bovolo” or “or the snail”.

Built in the 15th century for the wealthy Contarini family, the house became instantly notable for its unique outer staircase. In 1952 Orson Welles also fell in love with the house and even featured it in his film adaptation of Shakespeare’s Othello. The Palazzo was closed for many years but in 2016 it opened up its doors to the public. For three euros you can climb the stairs to the top and get a snap of the great landscape.

Explore the Side Canals

Make your way through this small island, heading north and slightly eastward. I don’t want to give you exact directions since exploring and getting lost in these small, neighbourhood streets is half the fun. You’ll discover amazing balconies pouring over with brightly coloured flowers. You might uncover a few secrets, etched into the walls of the alleyways. Or even discover your new favourite pastry shop. While there are some specific sights to see in Venice, exploring these side streets is a joy unto its own.

The Grand Canal

Continue walking north along the Corte Theatro, through one of the darkest brick tunnels, until you emerge out into the bright light of the Grand Canal. As this is the first time we are really faced with the view of the Grand Canal, I suppose we should talk a little bit about this ever so important waterway. The Grand Canal essentially splits the city of Venice into two. While the original waterway which ran through here was no doubt much narrower, the ancient river is thought to be a branch of the Brenta. Ancient Venetian fishermen were once the only ones who lived here, in simple stilt houses.

It wasn’t until the 9th century when the Doge moved his palace into the more protected area of what would become St Mark’s square, that the canal was widened. The canal needed to be larger in order to make room for the large ships needed for the construction of the palace. The canal became less of a fishing spot and more like a ritzy main street. Wealthy families began buying up property and building their huge manors along the Grand Canal.

History of the Grand Canal

The grand canal was the entryway into the city and the Venetian Republic wanted every building lining it to demonstrate the city’s power, wealth and artistic sensibilities. Like a parade of the best architecture Europe had to offer. This huge canal is now flanked by 170 illustrious buildings, which are from as early as the 13th century to the 18th century.

Rialto Bridge

Continue along with the Riva del Ferro, walking along the edge of the Grand Canal. Emerging from the last arcade you’ll be greeted almost immediately by the sight of the bright white stone of the Rialto bridge. The Rialto Bridge is the most famous of all of Venice’s canal bridges. It is also the oldest of the four major bridges which connect the various districts of Venice. The original wooden bridge installed here was built here in 1173. Back then it went by the name Ponte Della Moneta, which means “money bridge“. The reason for this was that on one side of the canal once stood the largest mint in Venice. People would flood into their area and across the bridge at all hours of the day to deposit and take out their cash!

The old wooden bridge was split down the center and could be raised on either side, to allow for tall ships to enter into these narrow canals. This was of the utmost importance especially when the Rialto Market opened, as boats would come in in mass to deliver fresh fruits, vegetables and fish. But as time past, the wooden bridge just wasn’t up to snuff though. After years and years of wear, riots, fires and crowds eventually it collapsed.

New Rialto Bridge

The new Rialto bridge design was completed in 1551. The architect who designed it did away with the raised wooden design and instead favoured stone as it was more durable and could last the test of time. Since the stone bridge couldn’t be raised, he needed to ensure that the two inclined ramps would be tall enough to accommodate the galley ships that needed to pass through. The result is this grand archway which looks like a gilded enclosure around a picturesque living portrait. The stone structure also featured a covered portico on top with rows of shops on either side. The addition of shops here meant that their rent could help pay for the maintenance of the bridge going forward. Between the inclined set of porticos is a large arch, like the crown atop this stunning structure.

While the bridge has become somewhat of a tourist trap, with stores selling souvenirs lining the entire walkway, early in the morning when they are all closed, this bridge still keeps its magic. There are these two little nooks on the bottom of the bridge, where you can sit right under it, besides the water. This is one of the most amazing places to watch boats and gondolas float by with stacks of fruits and vegetables coming into the market as dawn casts itself on the city. The top of the bridge is also one of the most iconic spots for pictures in Venice.

Mercado di Rialto

Now that you’ve been introduced to the look of the city, it’s time to meet the people of Venice. And there is no better place to get a peek into the real lives of the residence of Venice than to head to the Rialto Market! The Rialto Market is one of the last remaining fresh food markets in the city and as such, is a bustling place for locals to come and buy their food for the day. The outdoor portion of the market is where you’ll find seasonal fruits and vegetables. If you’re looking for a snack there is nothing more refreshing than a basket of freshly picked fruits!

But the Rialto Market is much more than just a place to get some of the best food in the city! It is also a place of great historical value. Of all the rich bankers and traders who lived in the region, the most famous were the Rivoalto family. The Rivoalto traders were one of the first families to come into the lagoon to set up a trading post. They picked this location because it was situated along the bend of the lagoon. This meant it was located on higher ground and therefore was spared from some of the floodings that other parts of the island experienced. The first known market took place here in 1097. Because the family didn’t have to constantly rebuild themselves, the Rivoaltos grew in prominence and wealth over time, eventually having the very spot named after them.

Pescheria

Opposite the green awning of the outdoor market is the neo-gothic fish hall, or Pescheria, built in the early 1900s. Outside the red brick building there is still to this day a marble plaque which you should study before heading inside. This plaque denotes the different types of fish which were allowed to be legally sold here when the marketplace was first built. Certain fishes were protected from overfishing and therefore there was a limit to the amount any one person could buy.

The fish hall is a soaring building with richly ornamented arches surrounding the exterior. Inside the columns continue throughout the interior, making a simple stone building feel rich and illustrious. Fresh fish has long been one of the most important resources in Venice. Right outside their door, this amazing product is caught daily. It can’t get much more local than that!

Buying food at the Market

The market place was facing the chance of being shut down a few years ago, due to a possible canal expansion for cruise ships. Thankfully the citizens were able to convince the city to stop this and the market was saved. But as more and more people choose to shop at larger grocery stores off the island markets like this always face the chance of being closed. So if you’re going to visit, be sure you buy at least a little something. We bought some fresh raspberries and cherries and they were absolutely delicious!

Basilica dei Frari

But probably what brings most people to San Polo is the Basilica dei Frari or Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari. But most people just call it the “Frari” for short. The church is the beating heart of this neighbourhood. In 1231 the Doge Jacopo Tiepolo donated some land to the Franciscans. The original church he had built was small and as the Franscians rose to power, they demolished it in exchange for a larger, more impressive design. The current version was built in the 14th-century in high Venetian Gothic style.

At the back of the church is the great campanile, which is the second tallest tower in the city, after San Marco’s tower. The bell tower was built in 1396 and still stands today! The unassuming facade might fool you into thinking at first blush this church isn’t very important. But in actuality, it is perhaps one of the most significant churches in the city.

Titian Paintings in Venice

Many Doges were buried here under the watchful eye of masterful works of art by the painter Titian. Titian, who was a Venetian himself, painted the great altarpiece inside the church. The Assumption of the Virgin by Titian is one of the first things your eye is drawn towards as you enter the church. It sits behind the high altar, lit by the glow of the stained glass windows behind it. This piece is perhaps the best example of Titan’s masterful work. Setting the standard for Venetian art during the Renaissance.

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Entry into the Church

There is a small fee to enter the church (€ 3,00) but it is more than worth it to gaze upon the painting the Assumption of the Virgin in situ. When I first saw this painting in person, it was a moment of awe for me. Some paintings, like the Mona Lisa perhaps, don’t live up to the hype. But this one is even more grandiose and firey in person than it was on any page or screen.

Titian died of the plague at the age of 94 and a memorial to his life and death stands inside the great basilica. The monument is gigantic! A version of the Assumption painting is carved into the stone behind an image of the painter crowed with a laurel wreath. On either side of the artist are two figures which represent the universal nature and the genius of knowledge. The other four figures are Painting, Sculpture, Graphic Art and Architecture.

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Dorsoduro District

The Dorsoduro district is located on the bottom of the Venetian islands. This area borders the Grand Canal as well as the Venetian Lagoon, making it a prime spot for traders to live. While it’s not as flashy as the other districts, think of this as the blue-collar neighbourhood, I still find it to be one of the most charming areas in Venice. Dorsoduro lacks the pretensions of the other neighbourhood. Since it’s home to Venice’s Ca’ Foscari University you’ll also find the new blood of Venetian society, its students, who liven up the streets with modern music, food and entertainment.

Ponte dei Pugni

Continuing south, we’ll be going to pass over the Ponte dei Pugni. I love the view from this bridge. If you look towards the west you can see the bell tower from the church of Santa Maria del Carmelo. On either side of the bridge are a pair of footsteps marked on the corner. This marked the beginning of where the great fight between Venice’s two rival family factions took place in 1705. Thereafter, many more fights took place here. Opponents would stand on either side of the bridge, where the footsteps are now marked. Originally, there were no railings on this bridge, so when the two opponents would fight, the first one to fall off the bridge and into the water as the loser.

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Cantine del Vino già Schiavi

By this time, we are approaching the evening, but its not time for dinner just yet. Oh no, first we must have aperitif! And one of the best places to get it in Dorsoduro is Cantine del Vino già Schiavi. This bar sells Cicchetti (small snacks) which include Venetian classics like crostini topped with salt cod and wild garlic, pistachio cream or alioli with flower petals. Grab an Aperol spritz to drink while standing at the bar to feel very much like a local.

Calle Nuova Sant’Agnese

Head northeast until you reach the Calle Nuova Sant’Agnese. This narrow street is filled with shops. Being so far away from the touristy areas, these stores are known to seel authentic Venetian goods but at reasonable prices. In addition to the tourist shops, you’ll also find unique boutiques which are a great way to support local businesses.

Basilica di Santa Maria Della Salute

If you’re still feeling up for it, continue walking through Dorsoduro, eastwards, until you reach the Basilica di Santa Maria Della Salute. This stunning white marble church is not only a sight to see, but where you can get a great view of Saint Mark’s square, where we first started the tour.

In 1630 Venice was being ravaged by the plague and there was no signs of it stopping. At the time, one of the ways people thought you could stop the plague was by making an offering to god and pray he would send deliverance to the city. So, the Republic of Venice built the church to Our Lady of Health as a last resort. Eventually, the plague period past and the city was able to start rebuilding itself. Nearly a third of the population of Venice died during the plague. Those that survived would remember that harrowing experience forever. Since the church was made in honour of stopping the plague, most of the art and symbolism you’ll find throughout the church in some way refers to death or the plague, making it a very uniquely themed church. 

The Dome of Basilica di Santa Maria Della Salute

The church is most notable for its humongous white dome which dominates the sky. The dome, which almost seems to defy gravity, became a symbol of inspiration for artists in the city. To support the huge dome and enormous marble church, 1,000,000 wooden piles were used to hold up the floating building. At the apex of the central pediment stands a statue of the Virgin Mary, looking out of the city. The group of figures in the scene is stunningly theatrical and it really looks like a moment frozen in time.

If you choose to come inside be sure to check out the statuary group at the high altar. This stone scene depicts depicting The Queen of Heaven expelling the Plague and was crafted in 1670. 

Zattere

To finish the evening, walk down south towards the far end of the island. The stone promenade which flanks the water’s edge is called the Zattere. Zattere in Italian means rafts. In the 16th century timber would arrive in the city on large rafts. Timber was not only used to constructed the walls of grand palazzos and houses in Venice, it was literally the ground on which the houses were built on. So timber was one of the most important imports in the city. Timber was also used to make gondolas up until the 18th century. Suffice to say, the city was literally built around the timber industry and therefore its importance is not to be ignored. The earliest parts of the Zattere date as far back as 1520! Today the wide promenade is a great place to watch the sunset against the waters of the canals.

Trattoria San Basilio

If you’re feeling like you would like to dine somewhere close to your accommodation there are Vaporetto stops all along the Fondamenta Zattere. But if you’re looking for something special along the water’s edge, but away from the touristy hub, you should check out Trattoria San Basilio.

This down to earth restaurant is located inside the corner of one of the older buildings in the Zattere. It barely looks like a restaurant at all except for the awning and few tables and chairs out front. But don’t let its modesty fool you, here you’ll find a relaxing atmosphere, friendly staff, and best of all, traditional Venetian cuisine. Their seafood spaghetti with mussels, clams and squids, tastes so fresh you’d swear the food jumped right onto your plate straight from the water. Try to get a spot outside to enjoy the sunset or the boats as they drive past into the moonlight.

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Phew, well that brings us to the end of this tour! Hopefully, if you packed this all into one day you found things along the way to return to tomorrow to investigate further! Let me know which neighbourhood was your favourite or what you’re most looking forward to visiting!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post Escape to Venice: Your Ultimate Guide to the Perfect 48 Hours in the Floating City – Steal This Itinerary Today! first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

If you’ve visited Prague, there is no doubt you will have come across Mucha’s work. He is one of the most prolific Czech painters in the world, and the city LOVES his paintings and posters. They seem to appear on every street corner and postcard in Prague. His famous prints have become so popular they are often sold at University Poster fairs and cover the walls of hundreds of dorm rooms around the world.

Mucha’s Art Nouveau

His style of art is quintessentially Art Nouveau. Most of his more commercial works feature images of beautiful young women in flowing dresses surrounded by lush flowers. He kept the tones for these advertorial pieces in pale pastels, typical of the art nouveau style. But the ‘Slav Epic’ is something completely different. A departure from his commercial work and something genuinely personal to the artist. If you are interested in learning more about the Slavic people and their history, this is an immersive and exciting way to do it!

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Where to Find the Artwork

I am SO EXCITED to finally get to update this blog with the new locations for the Slav Epic. When I visited Prague in 2015, I didn’t know I would be one of the last people to see the Slav Epic in person. I caught the exhibition just a few months before it closed. Until the end of 2016, the Slav Epic was housed in the National Gallery’s Veletržní Palace in Prague.

Moravský Krumlov

Originally, the canvases were exhibited in the city of Moravský Krumlov. They were displayed in the castle and remained a precious treasure of the town for over 50 years. Then, the city of Prague contested that the painting had been left to them by Mucha in the first place. And they shouldn’t be displayed so far away from where most tourists visit. But Prague had no space suitable for showing all these incredibly large works of art. You almost need an airport hanger! The city of Moravský Krumlov felt the paintings needed an appropriately regal and elevated space. They wanted them to be displayed inside the old palace of Moravský Krumlov, where they felt like they belonged. 

Political Battle over the Paintings

In 2012, the city of Prague eventually won the right to display the works. They found a temporary space for them in the National Gallery’s Veletržní Palace. But this space was only to house them for four years. After 2016, the paintings were boxed up, and a political battle between Prague and Moravský Krumlov erupted again. No one could agree on where they would be displayed. They travelled to Japan for international exhibitions, but when they returned, they sat in storage.

Finally, in 2020 the Prague City Council decided to return the paintings to the château in Moravský Krumlov. They will be on display here until 2026. After returning to their original home, the canvas exhibition spaces were repaired to better showcase these incredible works of art.

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Access & Admission 

As the exhibition takes place in Moravský Krumlov, most visitors will arrive via Prague, Vienna or nearby Brno.

The train from Prague to Moravský Krumlov takes about 4 hours (with one transfer.) After arriving at the stations, you can hop on a bus which will take you to the entrance to the castle. If you are travelling from Vienna, the journey is slightly shorter, only 3 hours on the train. The shortest trip will be from Brno, as it is only 1 hour on the train.

Tickets

It’s best to purchase tickets in advance to ensure you won’t be disappointed that they are sold out when you arrive.

Prices: Adults 250 CZK, Seniors 65+ 170 CZK, Students 10-25 years old 150 CZK

Hours

January–May:  9:00 a.m.–4:00 p.m. (last entry at 3 p.m.)
June–August:  9:00 a.m.–5:00 p.m. (last entry at 4 p.m.)
September–December  9:00 a.m.–4:00 p.m. (last entry at 3 p.m.)
all year round: closed on Mondays

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The Size Paintings

Seeing the paintings for the first time in person, you’re immediately awestruck by the sheer size of these canvases. They feel more like walled frescos than simple pictures. Moments are frozen in time, captured in life-sized (and in some cases, larger than life) works of art. Each of the paintings depicts the history of the Slav people, their civilization, wars, and celebrations. The next thing you’ll notice about these paintings is how the people represented differ from Mucha’s other works. These are not the languid, sensual forms of Mucha’s commercial art nouveau posters. These deftly painted scenes profoundly portray the emotions and collective journey of the subjects in each brushstroke.

About Alphonse Mucha

Alfons Maria Mucha, although better known internationally as Alphonse Mucha, was a Czech painter born in 1860. He born in the small town of Ivančice in southern Moravia. Mucha showed an aptitude for painting very early on. He received his secondary education at the Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul in Brno. He was accepted into the arts school firstly as he was also an accomplished singer. Mucha was famously quoted as saying, “for me, the notions of painting, going to church, and music are so closely knit that often I cannot decide whether I like church for its music or music for its place in the mystery which it accompanies.” The dramatic scenes in many religious paintings undoubtedly influenced the art he would later go on to make. 

Mucha in Vienna

At 19 years of age, Mucha travelled to Vienna. There he became an apprentice scenery painter for theatre companies. His flair for the dramatic would continue to be influenced through these explorations. After his apprenticeship, Mucha moved back to Moravia. There he was employed by Count Belize to create portraits, decorative art and lettering for tombstones. Belasi saw Mucha had real talent. He wasn’t just an everyday artist. Belasi brought Mucha with him on his trips to Venice, Florence and Milan. There he was able to introduce him to many more professional artists.

Mucha in Paris

Eventually, Mucha moved to Paris in 1888 and started to professionally study art at the Académie Julian and Académie Colarossi. These schools specialized in studying female nudes and figurative paintings. As well as historical and religious art.

While in Paris, Mucha lived inside the Slavic community boarding houses who famously sheltered struggling artists. It was perhaps living within this community that endowed Mucha to the Slavic people even more. Mucha’s first large client was the Central Library of Fine Arts. It was from here that his career as an illustrator and graphic artist took off. He successfully made a life for himself in Paris for many years, creating commercial art. These printed works featured his iconic attractive sets of women, in flowing gowns and floral backdrops.

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History of the Slav Epic

At the age of 43, Mucha returned to his homeland of Moravia. There, he devoted himself to painting a series about the history of all the Slavic people. Mucha’s inspiration for the series first started when he was researching another assignment. While studying and travelling through the Balkans, he was genuinely struck by the hardships and sufferings of the Slav people. He also noted there was no real documentation of these people’s stories in art. Mucha decided it would be his final task to bring these stories to life with paint.

Although he secured a financier for the giant undertaking, this was more of a passion project for the artist. Sitting in his studio, surrounded by this enormous canvas, Mucha painted the past into reality. The Slav Epic depicts in chronological order the mythologies and histories of the Czechs and Slavic people.

Romanticism

Many of the themes in this series fall under romanticism. Romanticism is characterized by its emphasis on emotion and individualism and the glorification of the past and nature. In these paintings, sensations are portrayed on people’s faces in a far more sophisticated way than before. Looks of horror, terror, awe and apprehension started to round out the range of human emotion in art. Previously emotion had been stunted between pure joy or sadness. Romanticism also elevated folk art, which had previously been thought of as a lesser form of art.

It took Mucha over 14 years to complete the series. In 1928, on the 10th anniversary of Czechoslovakia’s independence, Mucha presented the collection of paintings to the Czech nation. He considered it his most important piece of work he ever created. The Czech Republic cherished the gift. It was like nothing else they had ever seen before. Notably, during World War II, the Slav Epic was one of the first things hidden away before the Nazis took hold of the city and seized works of art.

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The Slavs in Their Original Homeland

The series is set chronological and starts with the painting entitled “The Slavs in their Original Homeland,” painted in 1912. In the 4th to 6th century, the Slavic people lived largely in unpopulated, rural areas, which often were considered marshes. Because there was no national army to protect these farmers, their lands were invaded time and time again.

In this painting, you can see a mother and child hiding in the bushes. Behind them, their village is being burned to the ground. The red fires glowing in the distance to the left of the frame. Their eyes are so vulnerable and seem to cry out to the viewer for help. They look right into your soul. This is a trope that Mucha uses throughout almost the entirety of the series.

In the top corner of the piece, you can see three figures floating in mid-air. The largest of the figures, a priest, holds his hands outstretched. In the same position as Jesus on the cross. The two on either side of him are a young boy and girl. The boy, dressed in blood-red robes represents war. The girl on the right, dressed in white represents peace. The two figures seem to foreshadow the future of the Slavic people. Their history is marred by many wars but also by the hope for peace.

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Colours in the Slav Epic

The colours used in this painting are significant in the series and also in comparison to Mucha’s other works. Most of Mucha’s artworks are pale and delicate. In this series, we find there is definitely a dark tone to his work. Colours here are not just used haphazardly. He uses colour to his advantage and to help tell the story using symbolism.

Many of the paintings throughout the series have two separate planes of existence set in the same scene. Often mythological beings are seen floating above the historic action below. This is Mucha’s way of combining the essential mythologies of the Slavic people to past events.

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 The Celebration of Svantovít 

Sventovit is a Slavic deity of war, fertility and abundance. Sventovit is depicted as a four-headed god with two heads looking forward and two looking back. These four directions are positioned like a compass, looking north, south, east and west. The different directions they point also symbolize the different seasons of the year. Mucha’s next piece, “The Celebration of Svantovít” features the god Sventovit is located in the upper right portion of the painting. The god’s head is just cut off on the top of the canvas. Almost as if we portals cannot look upon him. But we can see some of the branches which sprout forth from his head. He is surrounded by other celestial beings painted in an almost opalescent quality.

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Arcona

Before the 1200s, the Slavs headed westwards and built a temple to Sventovit in the city of Arcona. As Sventovit was also the god of the seasons the Slavs would have a grand celebration every year during the autumn. The festival was obviously held at this temple. Pilgrims would come from all over Europe to celebrate with them here.

In 1168 the Danes attacked the city and destroyed the temple in their conquest of the east. We can see the Danes in the upper left corner of the canvas. They are represented by the fearsome-looking warriors being lead by a pack of wolves.

Celebration

Below the celestial scene, the Slavs are preparing for their autumnal celebrations. The Slavs and pilgrims are all dressed in white, a symbol of purity. Only one character seems to be aware of the incoming attack. A mother holding her child in the center of the frame looks out at the viewer. She is almost begging the viewer to take notice. And save them from the horrors which are about to happen to the peaceful pilgrims and Slavs.

Introduction of the Slavonic Liturgy in Great Moravia

In this painting, the “Introduction of the Slavonic Liturgy in Great Moravia” we have a lot going on. So let’s study the earthly plane first. The scene takes place in Velehrad around the year 880. In the lower right corner of the painting, we see a ray of light shining down. A deacon, with his back turned to the audience, reads out an edict. Sitting on his throne awaiting the reading is Prince Svatopluk of Greater Moravia. The deacon is reading out the announcement that Pope John VIII has officially sanctioned the use of Slavic liturgy.

To the left of the deacon, almost hidden behind a small tree, stands Methodius. Two novices are seen kneeling by his side. The task of translating the Bible into the Slavic language was a job upon which Methodius staked his life. And it would make him a saint. Methodius, and his brother Cyril, both helped with this translation of the Bible. The Pope also made Methodius archbishop for his achievements. In the middle ages, having a bible in your native language was a way of ensuring its legacy.

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Slavic Language

But not everyone is happy to hear this news. The two German priests surrounding Svatopluk, whose faces are shaded and almost hidden in darkness, can barely conceal their anger. These Germans had been making their way through Moravia in the hopes of eliminating the Slavic language for good. They wanted to force the Slavs to learn the German language in order to practice Christianity.

In the very front of the foreground, once more staring out at the audience, stands a young man with his fist clenched. He raises his other hand in the air, which holds a large ring. The circle symbolizes this moment of strength in unity for the Slavic people.

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Boris of Bulgaria and Igor of Russia

Floating above this scene, we have members of the divine realm. In the upper left corner, we can see the Pope sitting on his throne. Beside him, sits the Byzantine emperor, who was the head of the Orthodox Church. Surrounding the great religious leaders Slav who suffered forced Germanification, who now cry out for comfort. In the center of the ethereal world, we see stylized images of Methodius and Cyril as Saints. To the very right, we have the portraits of Boris of Bulgaria and Igor of Russia and their wives. These rulers helped spread the Slavic Bible across the country which helped strengthen their rule and their culture.

Tsar Simeon I of Bulgaria 

Much as the Bible was important in the perpetuation of the Slavic language, art and literature were also significant in ensuring a legacy for this nation. When Methodius died, the Archbishop of Moravia, Prince Svatopluk, under the influence of his German priests, withdrew his support for the Slavic Bible. With this exodus, he also exiled all of Methodius’ followers out of Moravia. They were scholars without a place to call home. Methodius had died and his successor was not recognized by the Pope and therefore had no power. His followers felt they were the only ones left who could continue Methodius’ great work. But all was not yet lost.

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Tsar Simeon I

Luckily, Tsar Simeon I of Bulgaria, who had a great kindness in his heart for the Slavic people, gave the scholar refuge inside his court. Tsar Simeon I, was a powerful ruler. Simeon’s successful campaigns against the Byzantines, Magyars and Serbs led Bulgaria to its greatest territorial expansion ever! It was on its way to being one of the most powerful states in Eastern and Southeast Europe. But Simone was also a lover of literature and art. We can see Simeon himself highlighted here under a golden arch. He is seen dictating to his scribes from his raised dais. Other scholars are spread out all over the court. Almost hastily and messily, writing and reading under the golden light of the throne room.

The painting’s foreground is rather small. The upper portion, which takes up about half the space, focuses on the palace’s decor. The frescoes on the wall feature both Byzantine and Slavic designs. Slavic leaders are painted, and a circular motif is applied in gold to the front of the baldachin.

King Přemysl Otakar II of Bohemia

The fifth painting in the series is entitled “King Přemysl Otakar II of Bohemia.” This painting was made 12 years after the first. The piece depicts King Přemysl Otakar II, who ruled Bohemia from 1253-1278. The King is celebrating the marriage of his niece to the prince of Hungary. This marriage would forge a great alliance and strengthen the bonds of both countries. 

The wedding took place on October 5th, 1264. It was one of the greatest celebrations in Europe’s history to date. Held on the banks of the Danube, under a large canopy, fancy tents were set up along the river to accommodate all the royal guests. The event was dubbed the “Union of Slavic dynasty“. The King happily is greeting his guests inside an ornate tent covered in rich carpets and a beautiful mosaic dome. This scene is lit from above, as if from that celestial place. The light of the hope for the countries’ futures.

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The Coronation of Serbian Tsar Štěpán Dušan

The next painting in the series is the “The The Coronation of Serbian Tsar Štěpán Dušan.” Dušan fought many successful wars, growing the size of the country and enriching the livelihood of his people in the process. On Easter Sunday in 1346, he had himself crowned as the Tsar of the Serbs and Greeks. The painting takes place on the hillside, down from the Church of Saint Marko near Skopje. In this scene, we see crowds of peasants and nobles alike, in line for his coronation. Under Dušan’s rule, Serbia was the major power in the Balkans, and a multi-ethnic and multi-lingual empire. He enacted Dušan’s Code which was a compilation of several legal systems, which is considered to be one of the first acts of the constitution.

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The children will follow in their leader’s footsteps and bring freedom to the Czech people

Dušan is depicted at the centre of the frame, but not larger than any other person presented. Walking in front of him are some young Serbian girls in traditional attire. The children stand at the front of the procession, as Mucha always maintained that “the children will follow in their leader’s footsteps and bring freedom to the Czech people.” In their hands, they carry flowers and olive branches, the symbols of peace and victory. The children’s gaze focuses once more on the viewer, asking them to join in on the celebrations.

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Jan Milíč of Kroměříž

This painting, “Jan Milíč of Kroměříž,” is the first of a triptych in the Slav Epic series. These three paintings jump forward in history slightly and focus on the reformist preachers of the 14th and 15th centuries. Jan Milíč of Kroměříž was a Czech Catholic priest who found himself in opposition with the rest of his clergymen. He found the Catholics to be immoral and indulgent. Their greed was outweighing their piety. 

He redesigned from his official priestly duties and instead dedicated himself to helping the sick and poor of the city of Prague. Milíč made it his mission to persuade the prostitutes of a large house of ill repute to shed their sinful ways and repent. By the sheer eloquence of his words alone, they followed.

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Unlike the rest of the paintings in this series, this one is primarily made up of women. Even Milíč himself is very small in proportion to the rest of the scene. At this moment in time, we can see the former prostitutes shedding their brightly coloured clothes and lavish jewels in exchange for simple, white robes. A mode of dressings that represented their newfound purity.

Jerusalem

Milíč set about building a new church, which he would call his “Jerusalem“. This church would become the Týn Church which now stands in Prague’s Old Town Square. In this painting, we can see the women gathered around the spot that would become this church. The scaffolding reaching high up, making the verticality of the painting one of the most impactful things about this piece. One of the prostitutes in the foreground, dressed in red, has her mouth gagged in order to prevent her from gossiping, a mortal sin.

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Jan Hus Preaching at the Bethlehem Chapel

The second and largest painting in the triptych is “Jan Hus Preaching at the Bethlehem Chapel”. In this dimly lit scene, we see the Czech theologian and philosopher Jan Hus sitting in the center of the Bethlehem Chapel in 1412. Jan was at the height of his popularity at this time. Jan Hus preached against the Catholic Church of Bohemia, as he believed they were using the church for their own gains. And they would not let the Bohemian people have the Slavic language used in church. The scenes show Hus on the left side of the painting, preaching from his pulpit. But Hus, despite being perhaps the most famous character in the scene is not the central focus. The audience is filled with both everyday people and the highest rungs of Bohemia. All together, presented equally.

The church is also filled with famous characters who would shape the future of Bohemia. Perhaps influenced by the teachings of Hus. The future leader of the Hussite army Jan Žižka, stands under a fresco of St. George and the Dragon. In front of the pulpit is a small group of Hus’ students who are diligently taking notes. All of them sit there, transfixed by the words he speaks.

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Queen Sophia, wife of King Váklav IV

On the right side of the frame, we see the bright red canopy of Queen Sophia, wife of King Váklav IV. She sits with her assembly listening to the great lecturer. One of her ladies in waiting turns her head to the side, looking off at a shadowy figure in the corner. This figure represents one of the spying priests who would bring about the death of Jan Hus.

Mucha represents the Bethlehem Chapel as he imagined it. The real church was destroyed in 1836, long before Mucha started this painting. Mucha draws the interior in the high Gothic style as it feels so grand and perhaps reflects the magnificence of the sermons Jan Hus would have been giving. You can visit the new Bethlehem Chapel in Prague today, and while the architecture isn’t nearly as impressive now, its prominence in history is unparalleled.

The Gathering at Křížky

Jan Hus’ teachings were not taken kindly by the papacy. When Alexander V was elected as a pope, he excommunicated Hus. But this would not stop him from preaching. Angered at his insolence, the pope plotted to arrest Hus. He planned an assembly of the Council of Constance to discuss Hus’ opposition to the church. When Hus arrived to have what he thought would be a sensible debate, he was arrested. They repeatedly ask Hus to stop preaching and bend to the ways of the Catholic church but Hus just repeated, “I would not for a chapel of gold retreat from the truth!”.

Hus was burned at the stake for “heresy against the doctrines of the Catholic Church“. As he burned they say he could be heard singing Psalms, a peaceful protestor to the end. But his death would not be in vain. His followers, who called themselves the Hussites, rose up against the Catholic Church. They wanted to take up arms to defend their faith and their right to practice religion in the Slavic language. In 1418, there was a gathering of the Hussites before the great war they would embark on. It is depicted here, in the painting called, “The Gathering at Křížky.”

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Koranda

On the right side of the frame, atop a makeshift pulpit stands the preacher Koranda, one of Jan Hus’ most diligent followers. Koranda preaches to the thousands of followers who have concentrated on the hillside. In the foreground, a young man puts his hands around his mouth, in mid-scream. He is calling out for more pilgrims to come over to this spot and listen to Koranda. Koranda is famously quoted as saying, “the faithful should carry swords, not walking sticks.” It was perhaps this moment that the Hussite Wars began. While the painting’s hills and foreground are lit in a pale morning sunrise, there is a dark sky looming above them. This ominous tone is foreshadowing the devastation that will be brought by impending hostilities.

After the Battle of Grunewald

This scene is perhaps one of the most ghastly of all the paintings in the series. The painting depicts the morning “After the Battle of Grunewald“. The great Battle of Grunewald is one of the most significant medieval European victories in history. It was a show of unity for nations under the thumb of Germany. The Teutonic Knights, a German catholic order, had been ravaging the Baltic lands since the 1400s. They wanted to spread Christianity to the pagan nations as they deemed them “savages”. The Slavs, who were also at war with the German Catholics, saw an opportunity to join forces and create a united front against them. The Slavs, the Poles and the Lithuanians all signed a treaty on July 15th, 1410. This was done to help each other defend themselves against the great Teutonic Knights.

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Polish–Lithuanian Union

The battle at Grunewald in Poland was a bloody affair, but in the end, the Polish–Lithuanian union were the victors. The battle is thought to have been the marking point in history when the balance of power shifted in Central and Eastern Europe. Many historical war scenes are often depicted as gory and bloody and yet Mucha chose a different approach. Instead, the battleground is almost entirely white, like covered in freshly fallen snow. This is once more to show the purity of the fallen soldiers, who died for the good of their country.

At the top of the frame stands Polish King Władysław Jagiełło and his cousin the Lithuanian Grand Duke Vytautas. They look down at the field of dead soldiers in horror. Such a high cost for freedom which should have been granted naturally. A priest in a white hood can be seen blessing the fallen soldiers as he moves throughout the battlefield.

After the Battle of Vítkov

The 11th piece in the series is entitled “After the Battle of Vítkov.” Like the previous painting, this one also focuses on fallen soldiers. Mucha was a pacifist and hated the loss of which war incurred. The battle was between the Czech people and the then King of Hungary, Sigismund, brother of King Wenceslas. Sigismund was thought to be the one who plotted the death of the people’s prophet, Jan Hus. After Hus died, the people refused to accept Sigismund as their king and marched against the Hungarian army, which occupied Prague Castle at the time.

Zižka

The sun rising above the clouds beams down on a figure which represents Zižka, the leader of the Czech army. We have seen Zižka before, first in the church scene listening to Hus’ teachings. Here we see him still fighting for the same things Hus had preached. Zižka is painted here by Mucha almost as a saintly figure, with the light of god cast down upon him.

In the bottom left of the frame, a mother is seen with her children. But she turns away from them, towards the viewer. She looks utterly overcome with pain, exhaustion and defeat. Although her army may have won the battle, many men had to die and she is perhaps thinking about her young children, who will no doubt go to war like so many other young men. These powerful characters looking out at the audience always seem to have these discerning looks, as if they, like the viewer, know what is to come next.

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 Petr of Chelčice 

Mucha aimed with his Slav Epic series to ensure he depicted both sides of the story. And in the painting, “Petr of Chelčice ” we see this balance. While the Hussites were an oppressed people, there were also more extreme factions of Hussites who themselves terrorized many people. This extremist group was called the Taborites. In 1420 the Taborites attacked the village of Vodňany. They plundered the town and burned it to the ground. In the distance of the painting, we see a hint of this action as the black smoke fills the air and almost the entire skyline.

The remaining citizens of Vodňany came to a pond away from the city carrying their dead and wounded in the hopes they would be safe here. The dead are wrapped in white sheets and set against a white pure background. Many of Mucha’s war scenes depict not the action of the battles itself but the after-effects of these traumas on the innocent victims or those left behind. Those who needed to carry on.

Petr Chelčický

In the middle of the frame, we can see a man dressed in a long brown coat and pale blue shawl. He holds a tattered book in his hand, the Czech bible. This is Petr Chelčický. Petr is seen holding the hand of a man, who in anger wants to set off back to the village to avenger his fallen family. But Petr is attempting to calm and dissuade him from seeking revenge.

Chelčický believed and taught pacifism and hated the idea of war. Mucha himself shared in this belief and wanted to highlight the man which he himself looked up to greatly. Petr Chelčický would go on to found the Unity of the Brethren. Their motto was “In essentials, unity; in non-essentials, liberty; in all things, love.”

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The Hussite King Jiří z Podĕbrad

Despite the strength and unity of the Czech people, Rome was still in opposition to them. In 1458 Bohemia elected its first king; Jiří z Podĕbrad portrayed here in “The Hussite King Jiří z Podĕbrad“. Jiří z Podĕbrad was well-loved by his people. With many successful battles, the Hussites had demanded an acknowledgement from the Church. Jiří z Podĕbrad sent an envoy to Rome with a treaty. He asked that the Pope confirmed his election and grant Bohemia their own religious privileges. The Pope sent back to Prague his cardinal Fantinus de Valle, to the Royal Court in Prague’s Old Town.

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Mucha’s Villains

In Mucha’s series, so many of the villains are seen painted in red. And there is no purer red, than the cardinal’s robes. He is centred in the frame, surrounded by the golden light flowing in through the gothic tracery’s stained glass windows. But instead of the golden light on the sun seeming holy or uplifting, there is an ominous, almost firey tone, to the lighting. He has not brought news of peace but of more war. The profile of Fantinus has actually been modelled off Pope Pius II. Fantinus was mere a solider in the Pope’s envoy.

The scene around him is calamitous. The king is seen turning away, his chair on its side, no doubt having been kicked down in a fit of rage. The overturned chair also represents the fact that Bohemia was still not seen as an official kingdom as the Papacy would not acknowledge it. At the bottom of the scene, in the center of the frame, we see a young boy looking out at the viewer. The boy is holding a book in his hands, which has the words “Roma” written on the cover. The book is closed, depicting the fact that Rome has closed the door on the Bohemian people.

The Defence of Sziget by Nikola Zrinski

“The Defence of Sziget by Nikola Zrinski” stands out, as the red hue is so saturated in juxtaposition to the softer tones of the rest of the series. The scene is fiery, literally. It depicts the last assault of the Bohemian forces against the Turkish army. In 1566, when this painting is set, the Ottoman Empire was spreading eastwards, taking city by city by force. Their next attack was set on the city of Sziget, a town in modern-day Hungary.

Nikola Zrinski

Within the walls of the city, the last remaining Bohemians forces gather around their leader, Croatian nobleman Nikola Zrinski. With no way out, the soldiers and common folk decided that instead of surrendering, they would fight to the very end.

One of the most dramatic moments of the siege is the burning of the city. Upon seeing the Turkish forces burst through the battlements, Zrinski’s wife Eva set fire to the city. She knew while this would no doubt kill hundreds of her own soldiers, but it would also kill thousands of Turks. And perhaps stop their advance into the rest of eastern Europe. In this scene, we can see Eva, along with other fellow women, climbing the scaffolding which contained the cities gunpowder supply. They ready themselves, for the right moment, when the Turkish army is close. Then Eva will hurl down the cresset she holds, to set the entire thing ablaze. You can see Eva at the very top of the scaffolding, standing proud and regal, brave in the face of her sacrifice. It was this decision that successfully halted the Ottoman expansion towards the city of Vienna.

Dividing the canvas like a scar, is a dark plume of smoke rising from the ground. The smoke is so thick it doesn’t seem to belong in the earthy realm. Instead, perhaps it is foreshadowing the demise yet to come. This battle is often referred to as “the battle that saved the civilization.”

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The Printing of the Bible of Kralice in Ivančice

“The Printing of the Bible of Kralice in Ivančice” is of particular importance to the Mucha, as it depicts his hometown. The town of Ivančice where Mucha was born is faithfully reinterpreted for us here, on a seemingly idyllic autumnal afternoon. No doubt he would have chosen his favourite time of year to paint this scene. The painting shows members of the Brethren School, gathered in 1578 to admire their new printing press, at work producing the first Czech translation of the New Testament.

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Jan the Elder

This theme of all men being equal was something Mucha believed in and was preached by the Brethren School itself. The teacher Jan the Elder of Žerotin can be seen almost obscured under the wooden shelter on the left side of the canvas despite him being one of the founders of the school. In reality, while the Brethren School was located in Ivančice, the bible had to be printed in secret in the town of Kralice. While the action is celebratory, the act of printing the bible in another language was seen as an affront to the Catholic church.

In the foreground of the frame, we see an old man reading to a young scholar. The scholar is looking out at the audience, with a look of apprehension or perhaps impending doom in his eyes. He seems to know that this act is bound to bring persecution down on the school. But printing the bible in Czech was in itself a symbol of the power of the Czech national identity. Since the bible was one of the most-read pieces of literature, having it in your own language ensured its legacy.

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Jan Amos Komenský

As foreshadowed by the look of terror in the boy from the previous painting, the religious liberties of the Bohemian people would not last. In 1619 the Holy Roman Emperor Ferdinand II became King of Bohemia. Without a true Czech King on the throne to fight for the rights of the Bohemian people, the Catholic church was reinstated in what was now a Protestant region. But not without bloodshed. In 1620, 30,000 Bohemians died trying to defend their liberty. Noblemen and academics were given the choice to convert to Catholicism or to be exiled.

Naarden

The painting of “Jan Amos Komenský” depicts the result of this exile. Komenský had been a member of the Brethern school who faced this choice. Not wanting to bend the knee to the catholic church, he left the country he loved so much, breaking his heart in the process. He spent the rest of his life in the town of Naarden, in the Netherlands. The town is located near the water, and historically it was said that Komenský would walk along the coast every day. Perhaps the calm sound of waves crashing on land allowing him to dream about the country he left behind. One day, when he felt like his life was coming to a close, he asked for a chair to be brought out to the coast. There he sat, and let death take him home once more.

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The scene is painted in a sombre, yet peaceful swath of blues and whites. The purity of the white shores upon which he walked is framed by the melancholy blue of the sky. The sombre sky reflecting the sadness which Komenský felt being compelled to leave his homeland and many of his people. A group of his followers can be seen grieving on the shore, holding each other close. A single lantern sits on the sand, glowing brightly in the darkness, perhaps a hint at the hope which still exists for the Bohemian people.

Czech Mason Temple

This is the only painting in the series which Mucha actually signed! Mucha was deeply connected to Komenský. It is well known that Mucha was a member of the Czech Mason Temple, which was founded in Prague in 1919 and named after Komenský himself. One of the symbols of the Masonic Temple is the Eye of God often seen in a triangle surrounded by rays of light. It is thought that Mucha’s inclusion of the lantern in this scene is symbolic of this same Eye of God and therefore a masonic symbol.

The Holy Mount Athos

The 17th piece in the series is called “The Holy Mount Athos.” Mucha believed that Mount Athos was a spiritual nest for the Czechs and Slav people. Mount Athos is a mountain in northeastern Greece and an important centre of Eastern Orthodox monasticism. Mount Athos is home to 20 monasteries under the direct jurisdiction of the Ecumenical Patriarch of Constantinople. Mucha visited the mountain himself in 1924. The spiritual haven made a huge impression on the painter.

The painting depicts the Russian pilgrimage to this holy site. Once more, we are privy to Mucha’s depiction of the heavenly and the earthly places above and below the canvas. In the upper portion of the painting, we can see the celestial realm. An ethereal glow falls in through the windows, showering the angels in heavenly light. Each of the angles holds in their hand a small model of a Slavic monastery that was built around Mount Athos. Each one of the angels seems to shelter and protect these little treasures. In the center of the frame are two female angels, identifiable by the fact they are not barechested and instead draped with immaculate white fabric. They hold an insignia in their hands which indicates they represent “faith” and “purity”.

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High Priests

In the earthly plane, we can see the Russian pilgrims entering the sanctuary in a semi-circle, bowing and praying. Four high priests stand at the back of the scene, just under the Slavic icons. Each one of them holds a relic in their hand which the pilgrims kiss upon greeting. In the foreground of the canvas, we see once more a young man, holding up an older blind man in his arms. One can imagine them to be the same two figures from the school of the Brethren a few paintings ago. The young man, being so inspired by the teaching of the older one, has helped bring him to this holy place where he can finally be at peace.

The Oath of Omladina under the Slavic Linden Tree

There are two important things to understand when reading the painting “The Oath of Omladina under the Slavic Linden Tree”. One is mythological and the other historical. The historical piece of the story is imprinted in the title with the mention of the Omladina. The Omladina were a group of Czech Nationalists made up mainly of youths created in the 1890s. 68 members of the group were furthermore put on trial for their beliefs and sent to prison for their “radical” ideas. These ideas revolved around the creation of a Czech nationalistic revival, despite the fact that Bohemia was currently occupied by the Austria-Hungary empire.

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The Daughter of Sláva

The scene which takes place here combines the Omladina with an allegorical scene of the Daughter of Sláva. Mucha was inspired by the poems of Ján Kollár whose oeuvre focused on stories of the gods and goddesses from Slavis history. The Daughter of Sláva stands in the center of the frame, beneath a Linden tree. The Linden tree is also a symbol of the Slavs. Surrounding the tree, in a circle of unity, are imagined members of the Omladina. The Omladina are in the process of taking an oath and pledging their allegiance to the goddess Slavia, and to the Czech people. While the men in the frame are portrayed in their formal, modern-day fashions, there are groups of figures surrounding them dressed in folk costumes. These are traditional representations of the first Czech people.

Jaroslava and Jiří

Sitting on what almost looks like the edge of a stage are two figures, a male and female. These characters were actually modelled off Mucha’s own children; Jaroslava and Jiří. The composition of girl on the right strumming the lyre was actually used in the posters that Mucha created to promote the exhibition of the Slav Epic in Prague in 1928. Mucha would never finish this painting, and the composition remains bare on the canvas, unvarnished. The faces are also unfinished, but in a sense that almost makes the painting more interesting as future Czech revolutionaries can imagine their own faces in the image. Inspiring them to never lose their Czech identity and the histories that come along with it.

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The Abolition of Serfdom in Russia

Mucha’s painting of the “Abolition of Serfdom in Russia” is a real reflection of the artist’s disheartening experience of visiting Russia for the first time. Mucha had always looked up to the Russians and was excited to finally visit the city. But when he got there in 1913 he was so disappointed to find the city was overrun with poverty and suffering. It was not the progressive place he thought it would be, instead, he found so many cultural practices to be years behind the rest of Europe. Especially in terms of equality, something he valued over everything else.

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Tsar Alexander II

Tsar Alexander II had given Russian serfs personal freedom in 1861. Which Mucha felt was long overdue. The term “serf”, referred to an unfree peasant of the Russian Empire. They differed from slaves only in the sense that they could not be bought and sold independently from their land. Instead were “attached” to the land they lived on. So if you bought a piece of land, the serfs came with it, but could never be moved from that spot. The emancipation movement of 1861 meant that 23 million people received their liberty. They now could marry without having to gain consent, could own property and even start a business.

When the edict was read out, as portrayed here, the serfs and nobles alike had much uncertainty about what this freedom would look like. For the peasants, having never known this kind of life before, some of them were overwhelmed and confused. Mucha’s crowd is subdued rather than excited. They sit for a moment, apprehensive that the emancipation order could be being revoked. And this liberty taken away as fast as it was given.

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St Basil’s Cathedral and the Kremlin

St Basil’s Cathedral and the Kremlin are almost completely obscured in the background of the scene by the thick fog. Making the picture more about the people than the country which looms over them. The sun is only starting to peek out of the clouds, offering a faint glimmer of hope. In the foreground of the picture, once more we see a mother and child looking out at the viewer. Their faces are a complex mixture of trepidation, anxiety and optimism.

The Apotheosis of the Slavs, Slavs for Humanity

The final painting in the series is perhaps the most impressive, the colours within its frame is almost otherworldly. It’s entitled “The Apotheosis of the Slavs, Slavs for Humanity.” In this scene, Mucha sums ups all the themes that were explored throughout the preceding paintings.

It celebrates the independence of the Slav nation in the 20th century.
The painting is divided into four sections, each separated by colour. The blue portion in the bottom right represents the mythology of the Slavic people. Those stories are the bedrock upon which their culture was built.

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The red in the top-right reflects the brutal Hussites wars fought in the middle ages. The dark shadowy figures on either side of the painting represent the enemies of the Slavic people and the oppression they surrounded the Slavs with throughout their lifetime.

Independent Czech Republic

The last group is the one marked with a bright yellow glowing light. In the centre, a man stands with his arms outstretched. So vast, they almost touch the edges of the canvas. He represents the new, independent Czech Republic. But he doesn’t stand alone. Behind him is the figure of Jesus Christ, supporting him on the journey to come. The man greets a group of soldiers, seen in their uniforms, returning from the First World War. The Austro-Hungarian Empire collapsed after WWI, and the Slavic people were free of their reign in 1918. Just below the waist of the towering figure is a man crouched over, holding his heart. From his clenched hands, a beam of light is radiating. The light represents the Czech people’s love for their nation. And it is this love that will illuminate the future pathway for the Slavic people.

Young boys and girls wave branches with bright green leaves, saluting the men returning home from battle. They are seen wearing traditional folk costumes. Symbolic of the fact that their traditions will never die and will continue in the hearts of future generations.

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Souls of the Slav People

Mucha hoped that those who viewed these paintings would be able to see into the souls of the Slav people. He wanted all Slavs and Czechs, now more than ever, to come together through their shared history. He hoped that by documenting these stories, perhaps unknown by many, they would find peace and hope. I had never known anything about the Slavic people until I visited Prague. After experiencing this series I was so inspired to do more reading about the stories portrayed here in the Slav Epic. By understanding the past these people suffered and survived through you have so much more appreciation for the culture they had to fight to preserve.

Fully taking in the Slav Epic can take some time, but the experience is absolutely worth it. I hope that when it finally reopens in its new home in Moravský Krumlov people flock to see it. This is a collection of works of art that NEEDS to be seen in person to be fully appreciated. While learning about it online is great, seeing these gigantic paintings, overtake your field of vision is such an awe-inspiring experience and I truly hope you all manage to see it for yourself!

The post The Ultimate Guide to Exploring the Beauty and Meaning of Alphonse Mucha’s Masterpiece, the Slav Epic [UPDATED 2023] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Truthful, this isn’t my favourite part of town. I’m not a luxury gal, I’m definitely more hipster than heiress. But after avoiding the area I finally made the effort to check it out and was amazed at what I found! There are some really incredible gems out here if you know where to look. But even I was wrapped up in the spell that is Polanco.

Leaning in Exploring Luxury

I made it a point to check out some of the luxury shopping and suddenly I understood, at least partially, what all the fuss was about. As someone who usually just buys her perfume at Lush, I was blown away by a hedonistic shopping experience at Xinu! I even came out with my first ever luxury perfume purchase! One of the greatest parts about a trip to Mexico City is that because you’ll eat at so many low-priced restaurants, you can afford that one-time splurge. We also made a point to get reservations at Pujol. This was my first time eating at a Michelin Star restaurant. It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience and one I will never forget! 

So if you’re like me and you’re looking to check out Polanco, but step past more than just the fancy shops, come with me on our Self Guided Tour of the luscious tree-lined street of Polanco! And not to worry! Polanco has more than just 5-star restaurants. There is also plenty of cheap eats, free entertainment and incredible sights found along the way.

Table Of Contents

1. Location & Access
2. History
3. Where to Stay?
4. Walking Tour
6. Avenue Horacio
7. Plaza Uruguay
8. Av. Isaac Newton
9. Parque Lincoln
10. Tianguis Parque Lincoln
11. El Moro
12. Cafebrería El Péndulo
13. Pasaje Polanco
14. Avenida Presidente Masaryk
15. La Casa del Pastor
16. Shopping in Polanco
17. Americas Park
18. St. Augustine Parish
19. TANE Instagram Wall
20. El Turix
21. Iglesia de San Ignacio de Loyola
22. El Palacio de Hierro Polanco
23. Soumaya Museum
24. Dining in Polanco
25. Autocinema Coyote

Location & Access

Polanco is located north of Paseo de la Reforma and just south of Avenida Ejercito Nacional. To the east and west Polanco sandwiches between Avenida Mariano Escobedo and Boulevard Manuel Avila Camacho. You can always easily Uber in and out of Polanco but if you want to take the subway to Metro Polanco. The Metro Polanco station is located right beside our first stop on the tour!

History

The Name ‘Polanco’

Long before the Spanish arrived, what is now known as “Mexico City” was first the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan. During those fertile years, a great river passed through what is now Avenue Campos Elisios in Polanco. In the 16th century, after the conquest, the land here was gifted to Hernán Cortés by the King of Spain. Cortes took control and named the river after the Spanish Jesuit Juan Alfonso de Polanco. The Polanco family were considered almost royalty and were highly regarded members of the board of King of Spain. A majority of the family members travelled to Mexico City as newly created “officers of the Crown”. This is where we get the name of the neighbourhood today. Sadly, the river was lost when the Spanish drained the valley to make more room for expansion. But the name lives on.

Polanco Farms

As time went on, the land became occupied by farmers. It was primarily used to plant mulberry trees and breed silkworms. The 16th-century Hacienda de Los Morales, one of the largest Polanco farmsteads, was established. We can even visit the old homestead today as it is still standing on the neighbourhood’s west side. It is now occupied by an incredible restaurant where you can dine inside a piece of history.

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20th Century

The area really only came into being as we know it today in the 1930s. The rural farmland was redeveloped by the enterprising Aleman family. They foresaw the need for further residential expansion in the city. Soon, Polanco was covered in large mansions with pristine tree-lined streets.

During this time, various foreign communities also began migrating to this area of town. As it was brand new they were able to establish little community circles, Even today you can find vibrant Jewish, Spanish, German and Lebanese pockets inside Polanco. Polanco is where the majority of the city’s working synagogues can still be found.

Spanish Revival Polanco

The most popular architectural style for these new mansions was Californian colonial or Spanish Revival style. These houses are easily identifiable by their curved arches, white stucco walls, terracotta roof tiles, wrought iron work railings and window grilles, and fantastical courtyards with expansive arcades. You’ll see many examples of this along Campos Elíseos, Avenida Jules Verne and Champs Elysées.

Introduction of Modernism

Later on in the 1950s, we saw the explosion of functionalist style defined by functional building materials and low levels of ornamentations. Many buildings are nothing more than concrete slabs, steel sheets, and exposed wood beams. We can see examples of this with buildings like the National Conservatory of Music, the Franco-Mexican Lyceum, and the Spanish Hospital.

The Population Boom

The boom of population expansion in Polanco didn’t occur until after the 1960s. After the previously elite neighbourhoods of Roma and Condesa began to open up to lower-class families with the introduction of rent-controlled apartments, the upper class of those barrios were looking for greener pastures. Although there was still some free real estate, the solution to the large influx of people was to introduction luxury high-rise residential buildings. These were first introduced in the west end where large wide multi-lanes streets were built around these huge multi-storey apartments.

Mid-Century Modern

But my favourite aspect of Polanco’s architecture is the rise of mid-century design. In anticipation of the 1968 Olympics in Mexico City there were many new hotels built to accommodate the influx of visitors. During this time the cult of personalities would soon return to the streets of Polanco. Most notable is the Camino Real Polanco Hotel. This hotel became an icon of the Mexican Modernism movement. This style featured geometric shapes, bright, bold colours, sloping low-rise structures reminiscent of Aztec, pre-hispanic structures. While the Camino Real was the first of this kind of design, years later, the experimentation of Mexican Modernism would continue in buildings like the Museo Jumex, Sala de Arte Publico Siqueiros, Luis Barragán’s Casa Barragán, Juan O’Gorman’s Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo’s Studio House and the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) Campus.

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Where to Stay?

Camino Real Polanco Mexico $$

The Camino Real Polanco is a beautiful hotel/museum designed by renowned architect Ricardo Legorreta. The space opened its doors to the public on July 25th, 1968. It was famous for combining modern features with shapes reminiscent of pre-hispanic pyramids when it opened. Elements from these merge to create an architectural masterpiece! There is something so nostalgic about the 60’s decor, which is so atmospheric. Plus, as it is not a high-end luxury hotel, the rooms come at a reasonable price for the area! If you have a little more cash to spend, book one suite as the retro decor is incredible. The view out towards the best architectural features of the hotel is wonderfully highlighted.

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Orchid House Polanco $$$

Nothing feels more like Mexican royalty than a stay at the Orchid House Polanco. The Orchid House provides visitors with the exquisite feeling of being at home with the comforts of a hotel. Hidden away inside a 100-year-old mansion, the hotel is filled with blue and coloured stained glass, antique barro floors hand-painted with images of Don Quijote and Shakespeare. There are also neoclassic mouldings and rich, traditional antique pink cantera stone. Each room is exquisitely designed and features textiles and handmade decorations from local artisan communities.

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Walking Tour

To start the perfect morning in Polanco, you must head over to is owned and operated by Chef Enrique Olvera. Olvera is infamous in the Mexico City food scene as he is also the chef who put Pujol on the map! But unlike Pujol, which is hard to get reservations at and costs a pretty penny, Eno is far more accessible for the everyday traveller.

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At Eno, you can try a traditional Mexican breakfast, like a plate of the classic Chillaques Verde for only cost $7 US! Their daily selection of pan dulce (sweet bread) is incredible! At only $3 a piece, it’s worth ordering a few for the table to share.

Avenue Horacio

From here, let’s take a walk down Avenue Horacio towards our next stop. Avenue Horacio is a perfect example of residential life in Polanco. Tall and orderly, minimalist and functionalist buildings line either side of wide, tree-lined avenues. But unlike the rougher charm that avenues in Condesa or Roma have, Polanco’s avenues are pristine. American-esque evergreen trees tower over the tiled pathways.

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Plaza Uruguay

Before turning south, make a quick stop inside Plaza Uruguay. Marking the entrance to the park is a large statue of General Jose Artigas. General Jose Artigas fought in the Latin American Wars of Independence. He battled against the Spanish Empire and is considered a national treasure here in Mexico City. The park is a beautiful example of the green spaces introduced into Colonia in the 20th century. In the centre of the Plaza is a mammoth concrete sculpture. Water cascades down off the sides of the brutalist-inspired fountain which is surprisingly intriguing despite its simplistic design.

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Av. Isaac Newton

The next block over is the street named after physicist Isaac Newton. Head along this street towards the southwest. As we’ve noted before in the Historic Centre, Mexico City has an amazing collection of street names. Each neighbourhood has a different theme. In upper-class Polanco, many of the streets are named after famous authors, sciences and philosophers. You’ll find the authors like Oscar Wilde, Julio Verne, Dickens, and Hans Christian Andersen. Poets like Moliere, Tennyson, Dumas, and Edgar Allen Poe. They’ve honoured scientists like Galileo, Aristoteles and Newton all with their own streets. And finally, there are the philosophers Plato, Hegel, and Socrates.

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Parque Lincoln

Av. Isaac Newton ends at the corner of the great Parque Lincoln. While many large mansions in Polanco already had private gardens, Parque Lincoln was the first public park. This allowed all residents to feel at ease outside.

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Although naming the park after an American president might seem odd, Lincoln was very well-loved by Mexicans. Lincoln opposed the US invasion of Mexico during the 1840s and from that moment won over the Mexicans. The large statue of Lincoln, made by Augustus Saint-Gaudens, stands in the park’s center. It was a gift to the city of Mexico by US president Lyndon B. Johnson when he visited Mexico City in 1966.

The park was inaugurated in 1938 by President Lázaro Cárdenas. Back then it was called Parque de Polanco or Parque del Palomar. A Polmar is a “dovecote” or house for pigeons or doves. Originally, the famous Parque Lincoln Clock Tower was a simple dovecote where the city’s dove population would come to roost.

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Tianguis Parque Lincoln

If you find yourself in town on a Saturday, you’ll find the park awash with fuschia-coloured tarps. These can be spotted a mile away and mark the Tianguis Parque Lincoln or Lincoln Park flea market. Everything from flowers to ceramics and handicrafts can be found here! Everything from quesadillas, sopes, gorditas, pozole, carnitas, chilaquiles, fresh fruit and more can all be found here under the tents. The neighbourhood is a bit more upmarket, so while the food and goods aren’t as cheap as elsewhere the quality is also higher.

Sculptures

In addition to the statue of Lincoln, the park is filled with incredible sculptures. These outdoor works of art feature famous activists like Nelson Mandela and Martin Luther King Jr. Other sculptures are much more subjective and ask the viewer to interpret. My favourite is the woman intertwined in a root swirling around a city. Each tendril burst out of the ground.

Aviary

Hidden away inside the park, inside a beehive-shaped building, is the Parque Lincoln Aviary. The Aviary was originally built in 1938. Although it closed down for almost four decades, it has since come back into fashion. Entry inside is only $10 pesos (US 50 cents)! If you have kids, this is a great option to entertain them. Inside you’ll find over 20 different species of birds. There are peacocks, parakeets, sparrows, pigeons and, of course, even parrots—all leaving in harmony.

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Nelson Mandela Cultural Space

Across from the Aviary, you’ll see another white stucco building, this is the Nelson Mandela Cultural Space. Inside, music and dance classes are offered to people of all ages. Stop outside the windows to see if you can hear any guitars or violins being played. Listen carefully as you walk by as on quiet days the music echoes throughout the park.

Clock Tower

One of the most iconic images of Parque Lincoln is the clock tower that rises out above the trees. The Torre del Reloj or Clock Tower today is used as a public art gallery. But it is only open when they have a current exhibition on or not. Worth poking your head inside just to see.

Across the street, make a brief stop to see the incredible home at the intersection of Luis Urbina and Alejandro Dumas. Here you’ll find one of the finest examples of Colonial Californian design. The house was built for the lottery magnate Elias Henaine and designed by architect Eduardo Fuhrken Meneses. So many of these “Mexican” looking buildings were made for immigrants. Helaine, who was Lebanese, request this type of style as a means to “fit in” to her new home country.

Park of Mirrors

Another nickname for Parque Lincoln is “Park of Mirrors.” The names comes from the two famous reflecting pools on either side of Calle Julio Verne. Especially on the weekends, these reflecting pools are a popular spot where you’ll find model ship collectors. They come from all over to place their boats in the water for the viewing pleasure of the surrounding public.

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El Moro

Head north along with Calle Julio Verne. These three little islands across from the park, where traffic swerves around, are home to some of the chicest cafes and restaurants in Polanco. And many of them are pretty well priced for such a high-end area. Boicot Café is my fave coffee chain in CDMX and worth checking out if you need a caffeine pick me up! But the main reason to make your way around the central circuit is to check out the Polanco branch of Churrería El Moro.

The original Churrería El Moro, in the Centro Histórico, is the oldest churro restaurant in Mexico City, established in 1935. A Spanish immigrant was shocked upon moving to Mexico City that there weren’t any churro shops in town. So he started his own little churro cart he wheeled around. The treat caught on immediately and it didn’t take long for him to buy a permanent location where he opened his first shop. Since then the company has only grown with locations all over Mexico City.

Hot Chocolate Dip

The only way to eat a churro from El Moro is with a cup of hot chocolate. You take that hot piece of fried cinnamon dough and dip it right into the hot cocoa. El Moro has four types of hot chocolates; Mexican (traditional and light ), French (with vanilla), Spanish (sweet and thick) and Special (bitter). On the other hand, hot chocolate is as old as Mexico itself. The drinking of chocolate can be traced back to Aztec times and was often referred to as “the drink of the gods.” The churro and hot chocolate as the culinary interpretation of the blending of these two cultures.

Cafebrería El Péndulo

Make a quick detour east along Calle Virgilio and up Calle Alejandro Dumas towards the Polanco branch of Cafebrería El Péndulo. Cafebrería El Péndulo is my favourite book store chain in Mexico City. They have locations in Condesa, Roma and San Angel. If you spot one, you know this is a great place to rest your feet. There is no disputing that their Polanco location is the absolute penultimate in architecture and design. This store is famous for being one of the most popular Instagram locations in the city.

The towering bookshelves are framed by these long-hanging plants. Making you feel like you’ve entered a greenhouse that is growing books. The swirling wooden staircase with bright teal banisters frames the entire bookshop. The entire place just feels cozy, modern and vibrant all at once. The roof of the building is made of semi-opaque glass. This allows natural light to pour into the main gallery creating the ideal space for reading.

Cafeteria

The reason these stores are called “Cafebrerías,” is that each one comes complete with a small cafe. Couches and chairs dot the entire second floor where you can sit for hours, enjoying watching people peruse the book selection while enjoying a lovely coffee. I often Uber up to Polanco just to sit and enjoy a coffee inside El Péndulo. They have a great selection of English books. Therefore, I am never strong enough not to leave without a new book in hand. Something always calls my name.

Pasaje Polanco

Jump back across the street and pop and enter into the Pasaje Polanco. The Pasaje Polanco, originally named the Pasaje Comercial, is an open-air shopping centre. The ground floor is littered with chic tiendas (boutiques) and above this, there are residential apartments. Even if you have no interest in shopping, this building is an architectural wonder. It’s stunning but has a surprisingly complicated history.

Colonial Californian Architecture

The complex was opened in 1939 and designed by Francisco J. Serrano in what we now call Colonial Californian style. Serrano was the first to define the Colonial Californian architectural style. He frequently travelled to Los Angeles to purchase films for a movie theatre he owned in Mexico. Everywhere he looked in Los Angeles, he saw a style called Spanish Colonial Revival. This style featured red-tiled roofs, arched passageways, iron-grille windows, Talavera tiles, and white stucco. But anyone looking at this can clearly see the Mexican influence. But by referring to it as “Spanish,” it held a more European cache to Americans who looked down on Mexico. Calling it Spanish Colonial design erased the true influence that Mexican art and architecture always held in America. 

This style would define the Californian architecture of the 1920s. It was so popular that a few years later, it was adopted here in Mexico City. But instead of drawing from their history, they took on the naming convention of ‘Colonial Californian’ architecture. And continued to be inspired by the more watered-down version of their past. The blueprint of these Californian buildings was fairly standardized. They consisted of the elements mentioned above and also featured a large interior courtyard. This courtyard was where shops would be installed on the ground level. While above, apartments would be built that would look out onto the semi-private courtyard below. Today, everyone has to admit the architecture is absolutely beautiful. But it’s a fascinating history to see how Mexican designs became Americanized. And then returned back to Mexico but as a shadow of their former self.

Avenida Presidente Masaryk

Exit visa Avenida Presidente Masaryk and make sure to take a second look back at the facade of the Pasaje Polanco as it’s truly spectacular from this vantage point. Avenida Presidente Masaryk is home to some of the country’s most prestigious and expensive restaurants and boutiques. It is considered the most exclusive avenue in Latin America, the Mexican version of ‘Rodeo Drive‘.

The Avenida Presidente Masaryk, is named after a Czech president Tomáš Masaryk. Tomáš Masaryk was the first president of Czechoslovakia when it became an independent country. Mexicans deeply revered countries that became independent as they themselves know the power that comes with independence. But the other reason Presidente Masaryk is admired in Polanco is due to the large Jewish community that lived here. Masaryk was a staunch defender of the Jewish people in Czechoslovakia. A statue of President Masaryk was donated by Prague in 2000 and installed along the street bearing his name. The same statue can also be found outside Prague Castle. Linking the two countries forever.

La Casa del Pastor

If you’re hungry and aren’t looking to spend a fortune, head to La Casa del Pastor. This little taco restaurant sits in one most exclusive areas in the city. And yet at around 40 pesos/taco (US $2) it’s very reasonably priced! You fill out a little paper sheet and tick off how many of each taco you’d like to get. There is such a huge selection of options here. The tacos pastor are their specialty. But you can also try Pollo (chicken), bistec (steak), Costilla (rib), lomito adobado (marinated tenderloin), chorizo, vegetarian and more! Honestly, when you see a menu this deep, you know the quality can’t be the best, but you really can’t beat the locations.

Don’t fill up too much as we’ll pass by another popular taco spot later. But in case you just want to sit and enjoy the view this place won’t break the bank! Get a spot on the patio if you can and you’ll really get your money’s worth.

Shopping in Polanco

From here, you can continue west along Av. Pdte. Masaryk where our tour continues, or you can take a break to do some shopping. I am working on the entire post of my favourite shops in Polanco that aren’t just international luxury brands. But in the meantime, if you’re looking for unique shops to check out, you can head east to Uriarte Talavera Polanco. Uriarte Talavera Polanco has some of the best ceramic tiles from Puebla, Mexico. The shop was established in 1824 and features classic designs and modern takes on the world-class pottery made in Puebla.

As mentioned before, Xinú Perfumes is the most incredible perfume shop. One of the most transformative experiences I’ve ever had. And on top of that, the staff were incredibly kind. There was no pressure to buy of the judgement of your financial status when you walked in. Something I’ve definitely experienced in high-end stores like Louis Vuitton, Cartier or Dolce & Gabbana found in Polanco. Xinú’s philosophy is that it appeals to our olfactory memory. Their perfumes were all unlike anything I had smelled before, and so rich even a tiny whiff transcended me into another realm. It’s well worth the price tag but honestly pretty reasonable when it comes to high-end perfume.

IKAL is a beautifully curated store featuring burgeoning designers’ contemporary design objects and clothes. Lots of modern and handmade pieces to be found here and even if the price tag is pretty steep, you feel inspired just browsing.

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Americas Park

If shopping isn’t your thing, head north along Alfredo de Musset towards Parque America. Parque America or American Park is a shady and vibrant park where the community comes out to play. Many people are out skateboarding, doing martial arts in the square or just relaxing with ice cream on one of the many comfortable benches. Locals mill about walking their dogs and chatting with each other about the latest gossip.

In the park, you’ll find a statue of Paul P. Harris. Harri was an American lawyer from Chicago, Illinois. He founded the club that became the humanitarian organization Rotary International in 1905. The park is another spectacular sight during the Jacaranda season which the purple trees bloom encircling the park in a colourful ring.

St. Augustine Parish

Towering above the conifer trees and leafy palms is the arched roof of the Church of San Agustín. This church is such a unique architectural wonder. It was designed by Leonardo Noriega and engineer Juan Valero Capetillo in 1949. The church’s facade features this monumental stone front. Most notable for the six hollow arches framing the pinnacle. The concave dome above the entrance to the church is adorned with reliefs. They feature images of the first seven Augustinians who arrived in America.

TANE Instagram Wall

Head back or continue to walk west along Avenida Presidente Masaryk. Here is where you can peek into the windows of some of the most expensive and exclusive stores in all of Mexico City. Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Montblanc, Rolex, Cartier and more. The windows displays here are always stupendous, so don’t be shy about taking a look. But one of the most photographed places in all of Mexico City has got to the be outside Tane. This jewellery store’s bright pink-painted facade also features a wall of fence cacti. Framed within the cacti is a vibrant neon sign which screams, “Mexico Mi Amor” or Mexico My Love. Almost everyone who passes by loves to get a snap in front of it! And honestly, who can blame them?

El Turix

Our second taco stop of the day is at El Turix. Winding down a little side street, this unassuming, practically standing-room-only restaurant is a hidden gem of the neighbourhood. El Turix specializes in cochinita pibil, a taco variation that comes from the Yucatán Peninsula. Cochinita pibil is made from a fatty slab of pork shoulder that has been slow-cooked until it just falls apart. It is marinated in achiote paste which lends a peppery flavour to the meat. The meat is also marinated with oranges to give it a sweet accompaniment to the slightly bitter achiote. Even after cooking, the pork is left to soak in the marinade juices. This gives you a slightly messy taco, but you’ll eat it up so quick you will barely notice! Tacos are only $18 pesos (less than US $1), so you can load up!

Iglesia de San Ignacio de Loyola

Head back up to Avenida Presidente Masaryk and continue north along Avenue Moliere. On the left side of the road, hidden behind a startlingly large, stark white wall, is the San Ignacio de Loyola Church. Turn just around the corner of Avenue Horacio, and suddenly the modernist church reveals itself to you. The church was completed in 1961 by famed architect Juan Sordo. Its sharp triangular structure is covered in handmade yellow ceramics. In the sunlight it shines like gold in the light of day.

If the church is open, be sure to step inside the Jesuit temple. Walking inside the incredible stained glass window bathes the atrium in rainbows of light. The metal gables that hold up the roof create this intricate web of metal above your head. It is truly one of the unique churches in the city and a little secret many people don’t even know if there.

El Palacio de Hierro Polanco

Another modernist architectural marvel of Polanco is El Palacio de Hierro. Located just across the street from the church. El Palacio de Hierro has been open since 1891, but their original flagship store is located in the Historic Centre. But their history dates back even further. In 1850 Frenchman Victor Gassier moved to Mexico City and opened Las Fábricas de Francia, or the Factories of France. The shop sold the best of french fashions imported from Europe.

El Palacio de Hierro History

Gassier joined forces with Alexander Reynaud in the 1890s to build Mexico City’s first upscale department store. They were inspired by Le Bon Marché in Paris, Saks Fifth Avenue in New York and Harrods in London. The name “El Palacio de Hierro” means the Iron Palace. It was given this nickname after opening since the department store was the first iron and steel structure to be built in Mexico City. People would pass by during its contribution in awe of the modern building materials. The company took advantage of the publicity by renaming the company El Palacio de Hierro.

The Move to Polanco

Eventually, the store outgrew its location in the Historical Centre. The company wanted to aim not only to expand but bring in more expensive stores to serve a different type of clientele. In 2016 to spent US$300 million to build the new El Palacio de Hierro here in Polanco. The shopping mall is spread out over 55,200 square metres and is the largest department store in Latin America!

Soumaya Museum

Continue north and turn west along Ejército Nacional Mexicano. This busy street is replete with Jacaranda trees come to the springtime! Turn up north along F. C. de Cuernavaca, where you have a spectacular view of the Soumaya Museum as you approach. The Museo Soumaya is one of my favourite types of museums. It is not controlled and operated by the government but instead features one man’s private collection. 

Carlos Slim Helú

Carlos Slim Helú is a Mexican telecommunications magnate. From 2010 to 2013 he was ranked by the Forbes business magazine as the richest person in the world! He is even the largest single shareholder of The New York Times. As such, the man can afford a lot of really, really high-valued art. 

Slim named the ‘Soumaya Museum‘ after his wife, Soumaya Domit, who died in 1999. Carlos wanted to share his art with the public. Instead of just keeping it to himself. The collection was so important to his wife and sharing it with the world felt like a way to keep her alive.

But Carlos wanted to give access to these incredible works of art to everyone, no matter their class or financial status. Therefore, the museum is FREE to enter. And not just on Sundays, like some of the other city museums, but EVERY DAY. 

Architecture

The museum is located inside the Plaza Carso. It is also considered one of the most attractive modern architectural structures in all of Mexico City. Designed by Mexican architect Fernando Romero but engineered by famed architect Frank Gehry. Those who know Frank Gehry‘s work, you can almost identify the building straight away. There are so many iconic elements in the design. The building seems to be twisting itself straight out of the ground. Over 16,000 hexagonal aluminum tiles were used to cover the exterior. To hold up all these tiles, an exoskeleton was built with 28 vertical curved steel columns and seven beams encircling the structure. This design was inspired by offshore oil rigs. Not surprisingly, the building cost almost $800 million to build. A testament to Slim’s enormous fortune that he could afford such a construction.

Interior

The museum contains over 66,000 pieces of art valued at over 700 million dollars! The collection features art from all different periods and artists all over the world. There are religious relics, European masters, Mexican artists, and even the largest collection of pre-Hispanic and colonial-era coins. I adore personal collections since they truly tell a story about the owner. What Slim and his wife were drawn to, what they were passionate about.

And what they wanted to see upon their walls or in their home. The collection features the largest group of sculptures by Auguste Rodin outside France. Slim’s wife loved Rodin more than any other artist, and their collection is a testament to this love.

When you enter the building, you pass through a narrow entryway into the building that soars up around you, like entering through the pin of a needle. You walk inside into this giant wide open space. Since the building has no window, you are led up to the top level in this spiral. Every one of the six different floors has a unique shape. Walking through the galleries, you almost feel like the art is closing in on you as you reach the top, where suddenly you step into this sun-drenched gallery. The rooftop is made with glass, so sunlight casts itself down into the gallery during the day.

Dining in Polanco

To end your evening in Polanco, you need to book yourself an incredible meal. Now don’t get me wrong, there are plenty of fine dining restaurants in Polanco that will be a real splurge, but you can also opt for something much more affordable if you want. You don’t need to splash out. But if you’re looking for a once-in-a-lifetime meal, this is the place to have it!

Pujol $$$$

Pujol is by far the most popular restaurant, not just in Polanco but in all of Mexico City. In 2021 it moved up to #9 on the list of the World’s Best Restaurants! Chef Enrique Olvera created Pujol in 2000 and almost right away wowed the culinary world. His aim was to showcase Mexican cusine and the country’s rich history. Reservations are tough to get, so try to plan your visit about three-four months in advance.

Pujol History

Today chef Jesús Durón has taken over for Olvera but has continued to refine the incredible flavours and come up with new culinary adventures. The menu’s aim was to take traditional dishes and transform them into the modern era. The most famous of their dishes are their Mole Madre and Mole Nuevo. ‘Mole’ comes from the Nahuatl word ‘mōlli’ meaning “sauce,” and has traditionally been used in Mexican cuisine for centuries. Pujol’s mole features a dark “mother mole” which has been aged for around 2,500 days. The mother mole is served within a ring of the “new mole” with a side of tortillas you use to taste the mole all on its own to really appreciate and experience the flavour. The traditional tasting menu costs around $2000 MXN ($100 USD) without alcohol.

Taco Omakase Meal

When we visited Pujol, we booked a seat for their taco-omakase experience. Omakase means “chef’s favourites” in Japanese and features a rotating 10-course featuring truly experimental takes on the conventional idea of a taco. The entire meal takes place inside their incredible glass dining room, which looks out to their natural gardens, where they grow many of the ingredients for the menu. The whole course was over 3-hours long and was more of an experience than a meal. Taco Omakase Menu costs around $3000 MXN per person ($147 USD) and includes alcohol pairings.

Quintonil $$$$

If you don’t manage to get reservations at Pujol, another incredible dining experience can be found at Quintonil. Quintonil was opened by Chef Jorge Vallejo, who started off at Pujol, where he made a name for himself. Quintonil takes the concept of showcasing Mexican flavours and turns the dishes on their head. Most of the ingredients on the menu are harvested literally 30 meters from where you’re sitting. They do offer a tasting menu with over 10-courses. This will cost you $3,280 MXN ($160 US) or with the alcohol pairing $5,235 MXN ($255). But if this is too expensive, you can also order from their a-la-carte menu with dishes ranging from $200-$500 pesos.

El Bajío $

If you’re still looking to enjoy a traditional Mexican meal but can’t spend upwards of $100 per person, El Bajío is a fantastic choice. El Bajío was founded in 1972 by Raúl Ramírez Degollado and Alfonso Hurtado Morellón who brought traditional Mexican cuisine from Veracruz to Mexico City. They have a huge patio and a large, airy interior decorated with traditional Mexican arts and crafts. The portions are enormous, and the atmosphere feels like dining inside a big family kitchen. Dishes here cost around $165 MXN ($9 USD). And there is even a surprisingly exciting kid menu to choose from, making it such a great place to come as a family.

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Autocinema Coyote

While many people will love to spend an evening in Polanco at chic bars like Gin Gin and Limantour Polanco, I prefer something a little different. In the north end of Polanco, behind a rather unseemly looking fence, is one of the coolest retro gems of the city; the Autocinema Coyote. Since 2011, the Autocinema Coyote has been the only drive-in movie theatre in Mexico City. But in addition to cars, there is also a little outdoor seating area where visitors without vehicles can spread out and enjoy a movie under the stars and enjoy a classic drive-in experience.

Autocinema Coyote plays everything from new releases to cult classics well into the evening. Sometimes when they show the old classics, people will show up in costumes and even perform along with the show! It’s such a great atmosphere. Check their website for the latest showings and which times are playing the films with English Audio, otherwise it’s usually dubbed in Spanish.

I hope you enjoyed this walking tour of the upscale streets of Polanco, Mexico City’s most exclusive neighbourhood. Let me know in the comments where your favourite stop was. Or if you have any particular stops you always make in this part of town!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

References

El Universal | LA Times

The post Self Guided Walking Tour of the Upscale Streets of Polanco: The City’s Most Exclusive Neighborhood first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

The Google Art and Culture site provides virtual exhibitions that they call “stories”. These “stories” are curated collections, sometimes from various museums, which are collected to tell captivating narratives. I have an entire post on some of the world’s best online museums and art galleries but, if you’re looking for something which only requires a minimal amount of time, then these exhibits are for you! Each one takes only about 10 minutes to explore but will leave you feeling artistically refreshed.

Table Of Contents

1. The Goddess Lakshmi in Popular Culture
2. Stanisław Mateusz Ignacy Wyspiański 
3. Elsa Schiaparelli Collection at the V&A
4. The Life and Art of Frida Kahlo
5. The Star Trail at the National Gallery
6. Johannes Vermeer's 'The Procuress' 
7. Heaven, Hell, and Dying Well
8. Table at Versaille
9. İstanbul: The City of Dreams
10. Question of Identity
11. Best Thing Since Sliced Bread

The Goddess Lakshmi in Popular Culture

The Goddess Lakshmi, the Goddess of Wealth, has been etched into visual arts since time immemorial. But her modern portrayal in the 20th century is a unique study well worth looking into! Together with The Ganesh Shivaswamy Foundation, the Los Angeles County Museum of Art and the British Museum, this exhibition guides you through pieces of ephemera that contain images of the Goddess. The exhibition teachers you about the meaning behind these different representations as well as visual elements paired with Lakshmi.

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Stanisław Mateusz Ignacy Wyspiański 

The “fourth Polish Bard” Stanisław Mateusz Ignacy Wyspiański was one of the most multitalented artists to ever grace this earth. Wyspiański, born in Kraków, Poland, was a playwright, painter and poet, and an interior and furniture designer. His paintings were fiercely intimate, and he took great pride in continuing ancestral folk traditions. Many people outside of Poland have never heard of him despite his many contributions to arts and culture. One of the exhibitions, which are well worth your time to check out, takes you through the artist’s life. It features both photographs from his life, maps of his homes and pastel sketches and paintings. These images collected here are ones of the loved ones in his life.

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After getting this primer on his life, you can study the exhibition featuring drawings from his travels. From 1890–1895 Wyspiański travelled all over Europe and took his pastels with him. His fluid and gestural images feel like they were made in a rush of excitement upon seeing these new destinations. During his stay in Paris, where he went to study and improve his art, he missed his home of Kraków greatly. But when he returned home, he found himself missing Paris. Forever torn between the comfort of home and the thrilling excitement of the artistic community in those bustling big cities. His art seems to depict this eternal longing.

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Elsa Schiaparelli Collection at the V&A

The Victoria and Albert Museum (also known as the V&A) is the world’s leading museum of art and design. Founded in 1852, the V&A promotes innovation and communicates the importance of good design. As a graphic designer, I think these kinds of museums are so important! While the collection contains over 2.27 million objects, the most iconic part is their costume collection. The V&A’s costume collection is the most comprehensive in Britain, containing over 14,000 outfits. This also includes accessories and shoes, dating from 1600 to the present. One of the online exhibits will take you on a journey through time using items from their fashion and clothing collection. These items range from high-end couture to inspired ready-to-wear to innovative street style.

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One of my favourite parts of their collection is their assortment of Elsa Schiaparelli pieces. Elsa Schiaparelli was a genius of the 20th century. She broke the mould of traditional tailoring and combined fashion and surrealism in the most inventive ways. She used embroidery, embellishment and unusual materials to transform her garments into unique fashion statements. The online gallery will lead you through some of her most inventive pieces that you can study in great detail. Learning all about the influences and references used throughout.

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The Life and Art of Frida Kahlo

Located in Xochimilco, the Museo Dolores Olmedo is situated in an old stone house dating back to the 16th century. Inside it contains the world’s largest collections of works by Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The online exhibition tells the story of the life and art of Frida Khalo through her personal effects, photographs and live street views of where she lived. And of course, using a myriad of her paintings and sketches.

The Star Trail at the National Gallery

The National Gallery, located in Central London, was founded in 1824. The museum houses over 2,300 paintings dating from the mid-13th century to 1900. Their collection contains such masterpieces as van Eyck‘s ‘Arnolfini Portrait,‘ Velázquez‘s ‘Rokeby Venus,‘ Turner‘s ‘Fighting Temeraire‘ and Van Gogh‘s ‘Sunflowers.’ One of the more interesting curated collections featured on the Google Arts and Culture website is all about the ‘Star Trail‘. In a variety of the paintings in the gallery, you can see stars painted in the skies. While some are more obvious and less metaphorical, others are hidden in less prominent places and have some deep, sometimes philosophical meanings. The exhibition guides you through this “star trail” and is an interesting way to view different pieces from their collection.

Johannes Vermeer’s ‘The Procuress’ 

The Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister or Old Masters Picture Gallery in Dresden, Germany, is home to the old empire’s most treasured paintings. The gallery is relatively small compared to some of the world’s most prolific museums. But it is honestly one of my favourites. There are about 750 paintings, lovingly curated, inside a stunningly decorated interior. The images range from the 15th to the 18th centuries. One of their most important pieces from the collection is the ‘The Procuress’ by Johannes Vermeer painted in 1656.

Having a Vermeer in your gallery is a real draw since the old master only is known to have painted 34 paintings in his lifetime. ‘The Procuress‘ is considered a very interesting and progressive painting of his. It represents sex work in a positive light. The painful woman portrayed in the photo looks contented and in control of her circumstances. But there are so many other aspects and hidden meanings to the painting that this virtual exhibit lends insight into.

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Heaven, Hell, and Dying Well

The J. Paul Getty Museum, located in Los Angeles, California, is one of the most surprising places to find some very old European artworks. The collection features European paintings, drawings, sculpture, decorative arts, and European, Asian, and American photographs dating from the eighth through the twenty-first century! But most importantly, it features a stunning collection of illuminated manuscripts. One of the most interesting online exhibitions from their collection is ‘Heaven, Hell, and Dying Well: Images of Death in the Middle Ages.’ An illuminated manuscript is a book in which the text is supplemented with such decoration as initials, borders, and miniature illustrations. Many of these little illustrations are innovative visions of heaven and hell as depicted by early Christian writings. And studying these representations of heaven, hell and the process of dying gives us a glimspe into the medieval way of life.

Table at Versaille

The Palace of Versaille has a beautiful online collection of some of their beautiful paintings that dot the castle walls. In addition to digitizing the paintings, they also have a digital collection of the palace’s antique plates and tableware used to serve the elaborate banquets. These paintings of the King’s table and old paper menus dating back to 1744, give us a peek into what Royal meals at Versaille would have looked like. But food back then wasn’t just for filling your belly; dining was considered a way to show off your greatness, wealth and power. And this exhibition takes you through those hidden meanings. It also provides a mirror into the life of the Kings and Queens of Versaille.

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İstanbul: The City of Dreams

Since we can’t be travelling the world ourselves, one of the ways we can travel virtually is through pictorial representations of faraway lands. But instead of looking at pictures, I prefer to look at art. The Pera Museum, located in Istanbul, Turkey, is an art museum that focuses on Orientalism in 19th-century art. Their collection of ‘Views of İstanbul and Daily Life in the Ottoman‘ will take you on a journey to lavishly decorated apartments and interiors. You’ll study earth-shatteringly beautiful fashions, fascinating customs and even more fantastical feasts!

Question of Identity

The Israel Museum, located in Jerusalem, contains the world’s best collections of art and Holy Land archaeology. Inside you’ll find works dating from prehistory to the present day relating to Jewish art and life. Their current online exhibitions called ‘Questions of Identity‘ is from their costume collection. The virtual art gallery examines how external appearances represent the “constant tension between segregation and integration that has always characterized Jewish existence in the Diaspora.”

Best Thing Since Sliced Bread

In London, England, the Museum of Brands has been amassing objects and packaging, which help tell the story of how brands shaped our world. As a graphic designer, I am someone who adores studying different packaging when I am travelling. And I love parts of museums where you can observe old ephemeral objects. It’s so interesting to me to see the fantastic packaging techniques employed hundreds of years ago. The Museum of Brand’s online exhibition, ‘Best Thing Since Sliced Bread: Packaging Innovation‘ studies the evolution of packaging design. It’s incredible to see how much some packaging has changed over the years and some hasn’t changed at all!

Hopefully, these fun exhibitions from all over the world give you a brief, fantastical respite from the dull world around you. Let me know if you’ve loved any other online exhibitions, and share with me the ways you are spending your time in lockdown!

Happy (Virtual) Travels, Adventurers

The post 11 of the Most Interesting Virtual Exhibitions You Can Explore Online first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

#1 Don’t Rush!

Italy isn’t a country you want to rush through. Not only will the infrastructure of Italy itself render this impossible, but it just doesn’t do the landscape and culture any justice either. Italy is a place for exploring, for getting lost and discovering something you never knew was there. Lists and guides are essential to make sure you don’t get TOO off track but make sure you don’t overbook yourself. I’m one of the LEAST flexible people in the world. I LOVE making schedules and itineraries and get flustered when things don’t go to plan.

Be Open to Change

But sometimes, being forced into a situation where just those things happen, forces you to change. To become adaptable. To open yourself up to new possibility and just let things flow. Italy changed me as a person. It forced me to slow down, to savour in a mid-afternoon glass of wine under an ancient clock tower. I didn’t ask for the bill or try to rush to my next destination. I just sipped my drink under the literal Tuscan sun and reflected on how lucky I was to be experiencing that moment in time. Rushing meals is a mainly North American thing. We are used to fasting food, even at a slow restaurant.

But in Europe, especially in Italy, everything is relaxed, laid back and at a snail’s pace. Find a way of adapting to this new kind of living. I found I loved to bring my books with me and spent these hours of dining reading. It’s a great time to plan your next adventure or just catch up with old friends or family.

#2 Don’t Drive Inside Big Cities

Driving in Italy is one of the best ways to explore the countryside. Emphasis on the countryside! Driving inside the BIG cities is a nightmare. I witnessed one of the biggest fights between my parents while driving in Florence and that imprinted itself on my brain as “note to self: never drive in the cities in Italy!” Renting a car in Italy is actually one of the cheapest modes of transportation but don’t let that sucker you into using it for the entirety of your trip! You need specific permits for your car to bring it into some major cities. If you haven’t got the right one to expect a HUGE fine when you return your vehicle at the end of the trip. An expensive bill is something no one wants to get after a dream vacation.

In addition to these significant fines, there are also dozens of weird rules of the road in these large cities. You’ll also find heavy traffic, problems with parking and more incidents that you really don’t need to stress about on your vacation. Trains between big cities in Italy are easy to use and a great way to watch the landscape fly by. While they might not always run on time (there is that laid back Italian attitude once more) they get you from point A to point B lickety-split, without any hidden fees. Once you’re finished in the big cities, head just outside town to pick up your rental car for a drive to see the smaller villages across Tuscany. 

Driving TIP

If you are travelling on trains in Italy a word to the wise: be sure to always validate your train tickets. When you buy your tickets on regional trains, there won’t be a time or date on it. This is because you need to validate it before you board the train to mark it as used. Look for a yellow machine on the platform or near the entrance to the station. If you can’t find one, ask any employee to point you in the right direction. If you find yourself onboard without validation and run into a transportation officer expect to pay a BIG fine! They don’t fall for the whole “I’m a tourist I didn’t know any better,” line. They make big money off these fines so won’t hesitate to give you one.

#3 Don’t Assume Food is that Expensive!

Dining out in Italy is cheaper than you’d imagine. When I was a backpacker in my early 20s, I had been anxious about eating out in Italy. It is known as one of the best culinary cities in the world, and I had imagined that all restaurants would cost a fortune. I thought for sure I’d have to resort to buying supermarket food and cooking it back at the hotel. I was SHOCKED to find that by making smart choices, I was able to eat pretty much anything I wanted. And more than that, the prices were way lower than I thought they would be! If you only look at restaurants with English menus, you’ll come away with a totally wrong idea of food prices in Italy.

Avoid English Menus

These restaurants are geared towards tourists who might be swayed by an easy experience to pay more for a less authentic experience. Keep an eye out for menus only in Italian only and always be sure to wander the streets at least five minutes away from the busy areas. Here you’ll find some absolute gems! Also be sure to avoid any restaurant with a greeter outside, yelling in English about their menus. That’s a sure sign it’s not the real deal. In Italy, as long as you stick to those points, you don’t need to worry about checking YELP or TripAdvisor.

I always ended up at places I never had written down, and the food was ALWAYS spectacular. If you can speak even a few words of Italian, try to ask for the daily special or chef’s recommendation. If you don’t have any allergies, give it a try! You never know when you’re next favourite meal will appear out of nowhere. I was shocked to find how much I loved squid ink pasta, a traditional meal in Venice which I had never seen anywhere else in the world.

#4 Don’t Expect to Eat on Your Schedule

Italians eat late. Or at least it seemed pretty late to me when usually eats her dinner around 6 pm. The earliest any self-respecting Italian would have their dinner would be around 8 pm. While many restaurants catering to tourists are open earlier, this is a dead giveaway that the food isn’t authentic. I found waiting for dinner was one of the hardest things to get used to.

Eat and Drink Late

That was until I found out about Aperitivo (more on that later). To get used to this later schedule, I found the best thing that worked for me was to take a nap in the middle of the day. This is the same thing many Italians do. It’s very typical to see restaurants open in the morning and night but closed in the afternoon. Despite being a Spanish name, many (or most) native Italians will go home for a siesta in the middle of the day.

This is just one part of the Italian dedication to a better quality of life. Shop owners will close down in the afternoon to go and make a home-cooked meal in their apartment. They sacrifice any sales they would have made during that time for the chance to eat their own food, maybe see their family or even have a nap. So I did the same. I would head home around 3 or 4 pm after a busy day and take a nice long relaxing nap. It recharged me for the rest of the night and resting always makes me feel less hungry than if I was walking around killing time before dinner.

#5 Don’t Expect Half-Priced Drinks during ‘Aperitivo‘ 

Many North American are used to this thing called “happy hour” between the hours of 7 and 9 pm. This time is usually reserved for half-priced, watered-down drinks. In Italy, they have something similar, but all kinds of different! It’s called ‘Aperitivo‘ (which literally translates to appetizer). Aperitivo is heavily advertised outside bars in the city, and also happens during the hours of 7 and 9 pm. But you won’t find any half-priced drinks here, and if you do see somewhere offering half priced wine, you know its not the an authentic aperitivo.

Free Food NOT Drink

Aperitivo is meant as a time for people to relax after work but before dinner. Locals jovially catch up with friends and family over a few glasses of wine while they wind up their metabolism for dinner (maybe this is why Italians eat so much pasta but remain so thin). But what aperitivo does offer instead of half-priced drinks, is FREE food! These “bonus” snacks are a way to stave off starving before your 9 pm dinner.

Different bars offer up different kinds of snacks. Some offer simple things like nuts, bread and fruit but others have full-on buffets of appetizers all free of charge if you’re drinking. Most big cities charge about 8 and 10 euros for a great glass of wine (reduce this slightly if staying in a smaller, less touristy village). But more than just a glass of wine, you’ll get a real experience out of it! Aperitivo brings out the best in people and a chance for you to meet the locals and ingrain yourself in Italian culture.

#6 Don’t Underestimate Coffee Culture

Coffee culture in Italy is almost a religion. There are many rules and rituals you’re expected to know and follow. One of the biggest don’ts to know, which will help you out financially is, don’t sit to drink your espresso. Often a coffee will have an added “table charge” if you drink it sitting down. This is rarely, if ever listed, so you’ll either have to ask or take your chances. Especially if you’re having a drink near a trendy tourist site, these charges can be as much as 20 euros! My husband was backpacking in his 20s and grabbed a coffee in front of the pantheon with his friend. They unwittingly sat down and had FOUR coffees, which ended up costing them 60 EUROS! A mistake we still laugh about to this day but I’m sure at the time it was anything but funny.

Even at cheaper cafes, drinking the espresso at the counter will always be more affordable and also how real Italians do it. If you have an espresso, don’t miss out on the crema. While you are not supposed to put any milk or cream in espresso, lots of cafes will have crema on the bar. Creama is whipped milk mixed with sugar that you can spoon into your espresso for a deliciously creamy and sweet drink.

Tips on What to Order and When

Another tip for ordering coffee is not to order a cappuccino after 11 am. Cappuccinos are thought to be meant only for breakfast. If you order one after dinner, you’ll either be politely corrected or just simply brought a latte macchiato instead. Speaking of lattes, don’t go up to a coffee counter and order only a “latte“. Latte in Italian means milk, so you might be served up a cup of warm milk. If you’re interested in a North American latte, as for a latte macchiato or caffe macchiato. When ordering an espresso, you can also ask for a caffe (which is what they call an espresso in Italian). If you’re not a fan of strong espresso order a caffe lungo which adds more water for a less intense taste.

#7 Don’t Ask for Free Tap Water

Trying to save a few dollars when travelling is obviously something most people will want to do. And to do this often, you’ll order some tap water to have during your meal. In Italy, this is called “acqua di robinetto“. But if you try ordering it at most restaurants, you might be met with a dirty look. You might also be flat out refused or, on the odd occasion, begrudgingly have it brought out to you. For the most part, I found it wasn’t worth the trouble of asking for it in the end. There are many reasons people don’t think tap water is standard in Italy. One is that although potable, restaurants can’t guarantee the contents of the water they served, which is against health regulations. Others say that it’s because they don’t make a profit from the water.

Another theory is that it merely isn’t a cultural thing for Italians. Whatever the reason, I keep to the saying, “when in Rome” and order the same thing to locals are ordering. Honestly, sometimes it’s cheaper to order a glass of the house wine than a bottle of sparkling water, so take this as an opportunity to live it up and sample some fantastic Italian wines. If you don’t drink alcohol, Italy has a variety of freshly made sodas which I found at most restaurants. Freshly squeezed lemons and oranges with soda water are fantastically refreshing on a hot day.

#8 Don’t Patiently Wait In Line

Even though Italians are so laid back about table service in restaurants, they are outright frantic when it comes to ordering things to go from anything with a counter. I am a pretty shy and orderly person, so when I was in Italy and went to order a coffee, I patiently waited in line. Without hesitation, I found a woman suddenly push her way in front of me to order, and without pause, the barista served her immediately. I thought for sure, him having seen me, he would have asked her to go to the back of the line. But he did not.

After this happened multiple times, I realized that line jumping was just a part of their culture, like yelling or talking with their hands. If an Italian sees a gap in the line, they’ll jump right in. So either be sure to leave no space between yourself and the person in front or find the courage to start line jumping! Or at least being a little pushier and showy when it comes to ordering at counters. Some places have started using a number machine to control this queuing problem, but if you’re stuck somewhere without it, you’ll need to figure out the game. Remember, they’re not trying to be rude, it’s just all apart of that fiery Italian attitude.

#9 Don’t Go in the Summer

Ok, now I know this point will get everyone going! Italy is a fantastically popular place to travel. As it should be, it’s gorgeous! You can’t blame people for wanting to visit it. But summer is especially busy. For many families, the summer is the only time they can travel with their kids, so the cities become overrun with Europeans and international travellers. The weather has been getting increasingly hotter and hotter (thanks global warming) and what once was a relaxing summer vacation on paper, turns into a humid, sticky and sweaty affair. Combine that with the huge crowds, long wait time to get into attractions and you’re in for a horrid equation.

Summer = High Prices, Lots of Tourists

Prices for hotels are also the most expensive during this time as well, and even some popular train route are often booked up well in advance. Summer also has its pests, in this case, mosquitoes, which can have a field day on bare legs. For me personally, Italy is one of those landscapes that look stunning any time of the year. The visual difference between Venice in the Summer and Venice in the Winter is almost non-existent (they rarely get snow).

And if you’re lucky enough to see a snow-covered Italy what a unique and special moment that would be! What is the most different during those months outside of the summertime are the crowds and the costs. In both cases you’ll see a big reduction. The colours along the vineyards in the fall are spectacular, and the springtime blooms along the roadways make driving a joy. So if you can avoid it, skip the summer! If you can’t, just be sure to plan far in advance and make smart choices.

#10 Don’t take Heavy luggage

Italy is known for its gorgeous cobblestone streets and old, historic residences. But what those two things have in common is that they were designed for a different time. A time when luggage was made for being carried in your hands, not huge suitcases being rolled down the street on wheels. Too many of us have a tendency to overpack. And you’re never all too aware of this fact until you’re facing a 20 minutes walk down an extremely bumpy road, followed by a six-storey walk up. With airlines charging more and more for checked luggage, this is your opportunity to save, and scale down all at once. I have a great post about how to pack for 2-weeks in a carry-on which will save you a ton of hassle, exhaustion, stress and, best of all, money!

#11 Don’t wait to Book Tickets to Popular Attractions

Even if you’re not travelling in the super-duper popular months, buying tickets online in advance to busy attractions is highly advisable. If there are a few items on your list which are unmissable, you don’t want to find yourself unable to get in because they’re sold out or the line is too long. Buying tickets in advance also means that that portion of the sightseeing costs is already paid for before you arrive in the city. For those on a tight budget, it means you might have a little bit more to spend once you’re there.

#12 Don’t ONLY Stay Inside the City Walls

So many people, when travelling to a new city, might want to stay right in the centre of town! And while this sounds good in practice, close to sights and all that, in reality it’s a bit more complicated. If you’re someone like me who enjoys a quiet evening, these hotels or apartments in the centre of busy cities are often pretty loud. Not only that, they are expensive! Since transport, even in smaller cities is so prevalent in Italy, it’s easy to stay either just on the outskirts of town or in a nearby village just a few minutes away. If you’re travelling by car, this also means you can park the car at one of these hotels easily and won’t need to worry about bringing it into town.

Look in Bnbs

Often hotels outside the city are a fraction of the cost of the ones in town and come with so much more character and charm. We stayed in plenty or airbnbs, farm stays or just tiny bed and breakfasts on the outskirts of town on our travels through Italy. Every single one was owned by the most interesting characters! Airbnb makes it easy to search for accommodations using their map function so you can find the town you want to visit and then zoom out slightly to explore the options just a few minutes outside the centre.

We even stayed in one place where the owner would drive us into the city in the morning and pick us up in the evening. Like a personal chauffeur or bus service! PLUS staying in these little towns also means you can visit their local restaurants which are often so excited to have visitors. They serve up some of the best authentic food at the lowest prices!

#13 Don’t Forget to Bring cash

Despite the rise of credit cards, tap and, apple pay, it seems like cash money has become something of an ephemeral thing. Even I rarely have cash on me at home, heck sometimes I don’t even walk around carrying my wallet. But especially when travelling I always make sure to bring cash with me. For anyone visiting a marketplace, flea market or even smaller restaurant, you’ll find cash is either the only accepted form of currency or at least the much more preferred option. Especially in small towns which might be a little bit more behind the times, cash is essential. And if you’re interested in doing any haggling at the antique market, you’ll need cash for sure!

#14 Don’t Skip pastries for breakfast

Breakfast in Italy is a sweet affair. If you come to Italy, don’t try to find a restaurant that does a full English or an omelette with hash browns. Along with the mandatory caffe (espresso), you need to pick up your favourite sweet pastry to enjoy alongside. There is the iconic biscotti, brioche or cannoli but my favourite is the cornetti (cornetto if singular). A cornetto is the Italian’s version of a french croissant. It is slightly sweeter (right up my alley!) and eaten dipped into your coffee as you indulge. Pastry shops often have a fantastic coffee counter as well so you can easily get your morning brew and meal all in one place.

Italy is honestly one of the most incredible places in the entire world, and although that’s not really the most original opinion, it’s cliche for a reason. Hopefully, these tips help you out on your next trip over to the city of astounding food, unbelievable architecture and extraordinary people. Let me know if the comment any others tips you might have for first-time travellers to help them out on their future ventures.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post 14 Travel Mistakes NOT to Make on Your First Trip to Italy first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

I couldn’t pass up the chance to fly down to join him over a long weekend and enjoy the free hotel room along with a weekend of sightseeing. I was blown away by just how easy it was to spend a weekend in D.C. and see so many things without ever doing any advanced planning. There are a few distinct neighbourhoods you can just wander around and stumble upon sight after sight without even knowing it.

Table Of Contents

1. When to Visit DC?
2. Day 1 – The Landmarks
   • Founding Farmers Breakfast
   • National Mall
   • Lincoln Memorial
   • Vietnam Memorial
     • Maya Lin's Design
     • Vietnam Women's Memorial
   • Lincoln Reflecting Pool
   • World War II Memorial
     • Bas Reliefs
   • Washington Monument
   • The Ellipse
   • Old Ebbit Grill
   • The White House
   • Pennsylvania Avenue
   • Choose a Museums in the Mall
   • Museum of American History
   • Air and Space Museum
   • National Museum of Natural History
   • Dinner at Succotash
   • Night Caps at Free State
3. Day 2 – Georgetown and the Arts
   • Julia Child’s House
   • Oldest Stone House in Washington
   • Baked & Wired
   • Georgetown Cupcake
   • Chesapeake and Ohio Canal
   • Exorcist Stairs
   • Georgetown University
   • GreenWorks Flowers
   • Books Hill Park
   • Georgetown Flea
   • Cafe Bonaparte
   • Library of Congress
   • Botanical Gardens
   • Hill Country Barbecue Market
   • National Theatre
   • Happy Travels Adventurers!

When to Visit DC?

We were so lucky to have lovely crisp, fall weather the entire weekend we were there. Washington is one of those cities though that lends itself to every season. If it’s too cold, too hot or too rainy simply head inside a museum! If, on the other hand, the weather is perfect and you want to enjoy the sunshine, there are so many things to see that you could spend the entire day just walking around outside. No matter what time of year you decide to visit you’ll have an absolutely fantastic time. This two-day guide can easily be adapted to different seasons throughout the year but I think works best over the weekend since many of the local activities are scheduled outside the work week.

Day 1 – The Landmarks

Washington, D.C. is the capital of the United States of America. It’s here where laws are passed, protests are united, and some of the greatest moments in U.S. history have happened. Washington, DC is located between Virginia and Maryland along the scenic Potomac River. On your first day, you’ll be anxious to see all those amazing sight and buildings which make this city famous!

Founding Farmers Breakfast

Breakfast is the most important meal of the day and to start your day off right you should definitely head over to Founding Farmers. The name itself, a riff on THE Founding Fathers, makes it such a apt starting point for your trip in this historic political township. Founding Farmers prides itself on maintaining the traditional values of the American family farmer, and all their food is sustainably grown. This results in some incredibly fresh and delicious food! This place is famous for a reason, so getting reservations are recommended if you know when you’re going to be visiting. The menu is a modern take on traditional American cuisine. Be sure to try Uncle Buck’s Beignets with raspberry, chocolate & caramel sauces as well as the cast iron baked cornbread.

National Mall

Once all filled up on breakfast, the best place to start your day in Washington is at the National Mall. The National Mall is a large public park, and in fact, it is American’s most visited national park. Here is where you’ll find some of the most incredible monuments dedicated to the American ancestors and heroes who shaped the history and face of this country. The National Mall is HUGE, and you don’t want to miss out seeing all there is to see so warms clothes (or cool ones, depending on the time of year) and comfy walking shoes are essential for making it through the entire day without getting sore feet!

Lincoln Memorial

Start your tour of the National Mall in front of the Lincoln Memorial. This incredible Grecian style building is dedicated to America’s beloved 16th president, Abraham Lincoln and the race relations he helped mend. The structure was made to look like a Greek temple with 36 fluted Doric columns around the perimeter — one for each of the 36 states in the union at the time of Lincolns death.

As you walk up the steps towards the entrance, at the top facing the Lincoln Memorial Reflecting pool are the words, “I Have a Dream” etched into the stone. On these stones is where Martin Luther King Jr. gave this famous speech, and now they are embedded into the foundation of the building forever.

As you step into the building, you’ll be struck immediately with the image of Abraham Lincoln himself, seated upon a chair, draped in the American flag. An inscription above him says,

In this temple
as in the hearts of the people
for whom he saved the Union
the memory of Abraham Lincoln
is enshrined forever.

Vietnam Memorial

Continue your tour of the Mall by heading off the left to visit the Vietnam Memorial. The Vietnam Veterans Memorial pays tribute to the brave members of the U.S. Armed Forces who fought in the Vietnam War and were killed or missing in action. The first thing you’ll see upon approach is the Three Soldiers statue, which depicts the disparate groups that had to come together during the War. It is a powerful and evocative sculpture, the eyes of the soldiers are starring off towrd the Vietnam memorial wall and beckoning you to go towards it.

The Wall That Heals, as it is so named, is 246 feet long and lists over 58,000 names in chronological order based on the date of casualty. At the start of the wall, there is a book containing all the names if you’re interested in finding someone you knew who fought in the war. I found it interesting to search for any members who had my same last name, and I ended up seeing three. Even though I did not know these people, I felt an immediate connection to even just the name and couldn’t help but imagine the pain which this war would have brought upon that family.

Maya Lin’s Design

One of the most potent aspects of the wall is the marble’s reflection as you look at the names. It reflects your face back at you as you gaze at the memorial, making you all too self aware of your privilege to be standing here and not be yourself a name along the wall. The design of this memorial was highly contested when it was first announced. The 21-year-old Asian American Maya Lin who won the design contest wanted to have the marble resemble a black scar on the ground — an unrelenting memory of the war that will last forever. Despite many people’s objections, when they finally saw the power which this sculpture had over those who viewed it, the design became one of the most highly regarding war memorials all over the world.

Vietnam Women’s Memorial

To the south of the wall is the Vietnam Women’s Memorial, which commemorates the 265,000 women that served in the Vietnam War. This compelling sculpture is roughly carved, like it was made in haste. It depicts three female nurses attending a wounded soldier. The rush in which the statue was made, reflect the fast paced nature of the work these women had to do during the war to save as many lives as they could, together.

Lincoln Reflecting Pool

From here, head towards the Lincoln Reflecting Pool. Across the still waters you can get both a stunning picture of the Lincoln Memorial or the Washington Monument set across a blue sky. This is perhaps one of the most iconic images from D.C. The pools overwhelming size seems to draw visitors from all over towards the mirror like surface, to contemplate how they themselves can aim to change the world in even the smallest way, much like the man for whom the pool is named after.

World War II Memorial

At the end of the pool is the World War II Memorial. Despite it’s classical appearance, this memorial was only completed in 2004. The memorial is made up of 56 granite pillar surrounding the semicircular plaza with the triumphal arches on either side. The northern arch represents the Pacific wars, and the Southern archways represents the Atlantic wars. The rainbow fountain is so named because, during certain times of the day, the spray from the fountain creates a rainbow across the skyline in the sunlight.

Behind the fountain is the Freedom Wall. 4,048 golden stars glimmer in the sunlight, each one representing 100 American soldiers who died during the war. Below the stars are the words “The Price of Freedom” written out in large letters, so large the message is unavoidable and clear as day. When we visited, there was a group of veterans of the Korean war there to pay their respects. It was a moving moment to see them all together, still grieving for their fallen comrades even after all this time. The price of freedom, a debt forever unpayable.

Bas Reliefs

As you continue to the east, towards the Washington Monument, take a moment to study the bas-reliefs which are embedded on either side of the walkway. These magnificent carvings represent different scenes of war. The expressions carved into the people’s faces are so emotive despite their diminutive size that they bring to life these scenes frozen in time.

Washington Monument

The Washington Monument is one of those places you see on TV or in pictures, but until you are face to face, you really can’t imagine how large it is. This obelisk was built to commemorate George Washington, and the construction began in 1848. The finished pillar wouldn’t be completed until 1888. You can see the different periods of development in the various construction materials as your eyes go up the monument. The entire structure is 500 feet tall, capped with a 55-foot pyramidion.

Today the memorial is surrounded by a circle of American flags. At one point you could even go up to the top of the obelisk, but it has been closed since 2018 which they modernise the elevator and constructs a permanent screening facility for visitors entering the landmark. They claim this might be completed by 2019, but be sure to check the website if you’re interested in going up since renovations are often significantly delayed.

The Ellipse

Before heading off for some lunch, walk north towards the Ellipse. The Ellipse is a 52-acre park which surrounds the White House. From here you have a great view of the exterior of the White House. This site is often a place for protesters, so it’s always interesting to see what’s going on here. I was amazed by the sheer size of the White House, for some reason on TV it looks so small but seeing it in person it really is more impressive!

Old Ebbit Grill

The Old Ebbit Grill is the oldest tavern in D.C. and it simply oozes that political ambience. Hushed conversations are happening all over the restaurant and it feels like deals are being made left, right and centre! Covered from head to toe, this restaurant is decorated in Victorian treasures making it seems almost like a museum. Their seafood platter is decadent for sure, but one of the most iconic dishes you can order! Perfect to share with friends over a discerning conversation.

The White House

After lunch, you’ll be right near the front of the White House, so it’s worth just popping over there to see this iconic building front and back! This view of the White House can be found on Pennsylvania Avenue and backs out onto Lafayette Square. Lafayette Square is a seven-acre public park and includes several majestic statues of early 19th century U.S. Presidents. This public area is home to many political protests and a great place to come and people watch!

Pennsylvania Avenue

We are heading back down to the National Mall, but on our way, stop along Pennsylvania Avenue for one of the best views of the Capitol Building you’ll find anywhere in the city.

Choose a Museums in the Mall

Now that you’ve had a nice break and are full of food, it’s time to walk off that lunch with a tour of the museums along the Mall. Washington has one of the largest collections of museums in one place. There is indeed something for everyone, and they’re almost all completely free! This is great for those who might want to pop in and out of a few throughout the afternoon to see something specific and then head on to the next destination. For lots of people, the joy of visiting these incredible structures doesn’t just lie in the exhibitions but rather in the design of the buildings themselves. If you plan on touring the entire place I recommend you choose just one museum for your afternoon visit. While every person will be interested in a different museum for different reasons here are my recommendations…

Museum of American History

If you’re visiting D.C., it seems a shame not to visit the American History Museum to admire their collection of American pop-culture memorabilia. They have Dorothy’s ruby slippers, the first Star Spangled Banner which inspired the anthem, a selection of Michelle Obama‘s gowns and even Thomas Jefferson’s writing desk.

Air and Space Museum

The Air and Space Museum contains a vast collection of historical objects which took flight into space and sky! You’ll find real NASA spaceships, Russian spacesuits, rockets, airplanes hung from the ceiling and even one of the Wright Brothers first models. This is a great place to bring anyone interested in space exploration!

National Museum of Natural History

The National Museum of Natural History was first opened in 1910 and aimed to bring the wonders from across the world to the people of Washington, D.C. The museum seeks to amaze it’s viewers, purely by featuring items from the world around us. Wander your way through the over 140 million natural science specimens and cultural artifacts. The Hall of Geology, contains the cursed Hope Diamond along with a rainbow of other incredible earthly delights. My favourite area was the Animals and Ecosystems hall on the second floor where you’ll find some of the most dynamic taxidermy animals who seem to come to life inside their exhibits. It’s a beautiful way to see different animals from all over the world as well as some which have since become extinct.

Dinner at Succotash

For dinner, header to Succotash in Penn Quarter. Succotash serves up comfort food at its bets inside a historical building which was once one of the largest banks in the city. This interesting interior gives the ambiance inside the restaurant a unique sense of gravitas. Despite the opulent setting, the food here is not only well priced but also incredibly delicious! Start with a fried green tomato salad, followed up with bourbon maple chicken and waffles or crispy blue catfish! Lastly, for dessert, be sure to order a plate of red velvet cookies to share!

Night Caps at Free State

To finish your evening off, and after all that walking, you certainly deserve a nightcap! D.C. is full of hip bars as the politico crowds love to chat late into the evening over delicious drinks. Free State is an awesome bar filled with character. They have an amazing selection of craft beers and beautifully made cocktails. But let’s face it, it’s all about the decor and this place aims to impress. It feels like a speakeasy mixed inside the bow of a ship. The perfect place to while the night away.

Day 2 – Georgetown and the Arts

Start the morning of your second day in Washington off in Georgetown. Georgetown feels so different to the area we were in yesterday. This part of the city is one of the oldest areas of D.C. and feels very academic due it’s proximity to the University. The crowds in this area of town are filled with students and teachers, aiming to inspire and educate the next round of Washington government employees. A large portion of the buildings here are protected by the historical society and preserved in an almost perfect way. Walking down the streets feels like stepping back in time.

Julia Child’s House

Start the tour along Rock Creek at 2706 Olive St NW. This butter yellow house was once the residence of Julia Child and her husband when they lived in D.C. Julia Child was one of the most influential American cooks who brought her love for French cuisine to the U.S. The buttery colour of the house seems almost too appropriate for the woman who loved to cook with it! The house is currently undergoing a huge renovation, which you can actually follow online!

Oldest Stone House in Washington

Continue down from Olive street and make your way along Main Street. At 3051 M St, you’ll find the Oldest Stone House in Washington. This is one of the only remaining pre-Revolutionary Colonial style houses still standing today.

Baked & Wired

Down from the oldest stone house, south on Thomas Jefferson St. is one of the most famous bakeries and cafes in Georgetown, Baked & Wired. This adorable little hole in the wall is divided into two areas, one where you can grab your morning brew and on the other side, a wall of cupcakes! Their cupcakes are known across the city as being some of the best and a lineup forms almost every day. It moves quickly, so don’t get discouraged. Be sure to ask if they have any seasonal options which are always extra special! Be warned, this cupcakes are HUGE, so either come hungry or bring a friend to share it with. Baked and Wired always has one flavour which is gluten free but it’s usually just the vanilla.

Georgetown Cupcake

If you’re anxious to jump into the Washington D.C. cupcake rivalry, then you must also try Georgetown Cupcake. This place is recognized across the country. Their chocolate ganache cupcake, with Valrhona chocolate, is the one to try but they also have daily specials which are always too temping to pass up! This place also has gluten-free options daily and if you are eating gluten free they have the more interesting options. Which ever place you decide to visit, be sure to grab a coffee, tea or drink to go and enjoy on our Georgetown walk.

Chesapeake and Ohio Canal

Cross back over the canal, and take your time, sipping your coffee, while walking through the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal. This scenic walkway is a quiet escape from busy city life. While the historic streets might be beautiful, they have recently been packed with expensive name brands and have lost some of their more unique storefronts. Especially on the weekends, the street is PACKED to the gills with shoppers while the canal is as peaceful as can be.

The canal also called the “Grand Old Ditch” was once the main waterway into the city where cargo and coal would be brought in. On either side of the canal, you’ll see old industrial structures, most of which have been renovated into trendy restaurants and apartment buildings but whose exterior architecture retains that antique appearance.

Exorcist Stairs

At the end of Main street, you’ll turn and head up a steep staircase to get to the upper part of Georgetown. If these stairs look familiar, that’s because they were not only used in the poster for ‘The Exorcist‘ but also were used in the itself movie. The entire film took place around Georgetown, so there are other places which were used in the movie to check out if you’re a die-hard fan, but these stairs are the most iconic place to visit.

Georgetown University

Up from the stairs, along some of the most beautiful looking row houses, you’ll find the giant stone towers of Georgetown University. Because the main building of the university is located in one of the most elevated areas of the city, Georgetown University is often referred to as “The Hilltop“. Healy Hall, the largest of the buildings on campus, was designed by Paul J. Pelz in a Neo-Medieval style and built in 1877. It looks more like a cathedral than a college, almost like the Hogwarts of Washington D.C.

Wandering the streets north of the campus is such a joy. We loved to pretend to be house hunting as we went, picking out our favourite house designs and garden landscapes. These houses are all from around the 1900s and pristinely preserved. While each of these houses no doubt has a story to tell, it’s just as fun to be none the wiser and imagine for yourself what living here during the early parts of the 19th century was like.

GreenWorks Flowers

Walking up to this shop was like walking into a dream. This cotton candy pink florist shop is always decked out for the season. At Christmas it is dripping with fairy lights and baubles, Halloween is a surprisingly spooky affair and the rest of the year the entire exterior is always looking like a secret garden exploding out of from the window boxes. I was bummed to see that the interior is pretty much just like any other florist shop and not some wild ‘Alice in Wonderland‘ but the exterior is what you’ll come to see anyways.

Books Hill Park

Book Hill Park is a quaint little park along Wisconsin Avenue. It’s a great spot to take a break, read a book, or post some pics to the gram. Up the stairs, you have a charming view across the Georgetown skyline. In the springtime, summer and fall the foliage is breathtaking, a little microcosm of the D.C. flora and fauna.

Georgetown Flea

Every Sunday, the Georgetown Flea, opens its tent and tables up to the public from 8 am till 4 pm. This market began in 1972 and has been open to the community even since with sellers peddling antiques, collectables, art, furniture, rugs, pottery, china, jewellery, silver, stained glass, books, photographs and more! This really is a great place to come to as a tourist and pick up a few pieces of historical memorabilia from Washington DC.

Cafe Bonaparte

For lunch head over to Cafe Bonaparte, located along the most darling block of shops and restaurants under a dark red awning which is usually filled with happy customers enjoying their lunchtime delights. The cosy little restaurant serves up French comfort food and both sweet and savoury crepes! If you get the chance to sit out on the patio, grab the opportunity as people watching is half the fun of this location!

Library of Congress

Now, it’s time to jump into an Uber or take the metro across the city to visit the The Library of Congress. This place is, in my opinion, the most beautiful building in D.C. The inside is breathtaking and a perfect spot for some fantastic photos. The incredible and grandiose design of the library, now named the Thomas Jefferson Building, was inspired by the Paris Opera House. And it’s artistic and theatrical inspiration can be seen throughout. Inside the grey facade, you’ll be wowed by the multitude of colours painted on the ceiling frescoes and the fascinating sculptures peeking out from behind ornate marble columns.

Botanical Gardens

Across from the library, if you have time, try to visit The U.S. Botanic Garden. This is the place to come to feel like you’re in the tropics even if it’s blistering cold outside. The U.S. Botanic Garden is constantly changing, there is always something blooming or growing depending on the seasons so there’s always something incredible to see. The gardens are divided into various sections based on their temperature, region or what the plants are used for.

There is a room dedicated entirely to medicinal plants and its so interesting to see how plants are still used to this very day to help heal people despite all the advances in modern medicine. My favourite room for photos is ‘The Tropics‘ where huge Swiss cheese looking leaves hang from giant trees and the air tastes almost taste sweet from the constantly growing flora. The glass windows of the greenhouse make for some incredible shots, not to be missed.

Hill Country Barbecue Market

About this time you’re probably getting a bit hungry so it’s time to head towards Hill Country Barbecue Market. Hill Country honours the barbecue traditions of Texas and offers some of the best live music and excellent hospitality I’ve ever had at a restaurant. Unlike some BBQ restaurants which only serve huge portions and set menus, this place allows you to get as much or as little of whatever you want!

You bring your order form up to the different counters and ask for whatever amount of meat you’d like. You can go back and forth as much as you want so if you’re going to start small and test out the different cuts and kinds of meat you’re free to do so and then head back for seconds, or even thirds! The sides are almost as delicious as the main course here. Their smoky chipotle deviled eggs are to die for, and skillet cornbread is absolute perfection. As for the meat, it’s moist, tender and FULL of FLAVOUR!

National Theatre

If you’re looking for a way to spend your last night in D.C. try to see if there is anything on at the National Theatre. Often plays which are on their way to Broadway will perform here before setting off to NYC. This means you have the chance to see a show in its late development stage, which means you might see a version of the show never seen again! We saw the pre-broadway run of ‘Beetlejuice’, and it was fantastic but also a great show to see to discuss what we thought might be cut when it finally makes its way to Broadway!

This brings us to the end of this 2-day itinerary! I think these sights and attractions along the way tell the story of D.C. superbly. While there is plenty more to see, Washington makes for the perfect weekend destination. You can easily hop on over and spend a whirlwind 48 hours wandering your way through one of the most historic cities in America. If you’ve ever been to D.C. let me know what your favourite thing to do was or if you’re planning a trip let me know if you have any questions!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate 2-Day Itinerary For Your First Trip To Washington D.C. first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Map of Ærø

When to Visit

Before you head on your adventure, one word of warning. Ærø is primarily a summer destination. From September to May, most shops, restaurants and activities aren’t open or on a very limited schedule. I visited just at the beginning of May, during the very start of the tourist season, and even then, the island was very quiet, and the opening hours of the shops were pretty limited, requiring a fair bit of planning. That being said, there was something about visiting a seemingly uninhabited land covered in antiquated Danish architecture that felt like we were explorers, discovering something hidden from the ages and history books.

But for the best experience and ability to visit everything in this post, you might want to visit the island in the full bloom of summer when it’s full of people with a lively atmosphere and a plentiful amount of activities to experience.

Prices in Ærø

Ærø is a fairly expensive island to visit, and I frequently find many tourists complaining about the prices of food and accommodation. Denmark is a slightly more expensive European city to visit, and then when you add these small islands with little access to the mainland, you end up with high prices on things like food, drink and hotels. Knowing this in advance really helps you set up good expectations, and although the lodging and food might cost a bit more, so many of the activities on the island, like biking and hiking, won’t cost you a thing!

Access by Ferry

Svendborg is your best place to start to make your way onto the island. It’s the largest town, with a Ferry over to the island and a train station that runs more frequently than the other ferry towns close to Ærø. The walk from the train station to the Ferry platform is short, and there is an adorably quaint Bed and Breakfast beside it, which offers great food and drink options for you to enjoy if you find yourself waiting a few hours for the ferry like we did. The ferry has some food options, too, if you find yourself rushing to meet the ship without eating.

You can buy your tickets aboard the boat, and be sure to buy a return ticket as it’s cheaper to do it that way rather than pay each way separately. The return ticket costs $35 US during the regular season, but if you head out there during the off-season, it only costs $13. Ferries run about every hour on the weekdays and slightly less often on weekends and holidays. The trip from Svendborg to Ærø takes about 75 minutes. 

Svendborg to Ærøskøbing

If your trip takes you there in May, be prepared for an amazing site as you cross the sea. As you sail towards Ærø, gold fields appear in the distance. The blossoming flowers in the fields and farmlands all over the hills and valleys produce a golden colour. Against the bright blue seas and the white flurry clouds, it’s a colour spectrum unlike anything I’d ever seen. When you arrive in Ærø from Svendborg, you’ll dock in the town of Ærøskøbing. Ærøskøbing is one of the larger villages on the island, and from here, you can make your way to your accommodations anywhere on the island.

History

Settlements on Ærø have been dated back to as early as 8000 BC. Neolithic burial grounds can still be found on the island, a small memento of the island’s incredible Viking past. In the 17th century, the island was mainly run by a Duke, a member of the Danish royal family. From 1622 to 1633, one of their most prolific ruler, Duke Christian, controlled the island.

When Duke Christian died, the islanders found a banner in his manor house composed of nine pieces of cloth in three different colours, each representing a different part of what made Ærø so special. Red was the colour of life, green was the deep colour of the Baltic sea, and golden yellow was for the beautiful flowers covering the spring island, signifying great crops and lush produce. This remains the flag of Ærø to this day. After the Duke’s death, the island was divided between the Duke’s four brothers into the four main villages on the island we still can visit today.

Villages of Ærø

The island is mainly populated by small farms across different villages. There are three main towns around the island where you’ll find the most things to do and places to stay. The largest village is Marstal, with a whopping 2,340 permanent inhabitants. After that, the biggest is Ærøskøbing with 978 and Søby with 598! This alone was reason enough for me to want to travel there. These tiny hamlets have such an amazingly tight-knit atmosphere, as everyone needs to work so close together for their little island to prosper. 

Ærøskøbing

Ærøskøbing is my favourite of them all. Many people call this place a fairy tale town. My favourite travel author Rick Steve dubbed it “a ship’s town in a bottle” as its architecture and charm have been perfectly preserved for years. Marstal is the largest city on the island and has the strongest connections with its maritime history, and you’ll find this theme strong throughout the village. Søby is located at the northernmost point on the island and is the smallest village. It is where all the old Viking boats are still being restored and where you’ll find the iconic Ærø lighthouse.

Where to Stay

Airbnb

There are some incredible Airbnb options in Ærø. Multiple locations allow you to sleep in converted granaries, bakeries, and farmhouses, which have now become comfortable accommodations. One of the most impressive is a seventeenth-century manor where King Frederik V stayed in 1750. Staying here is like experiencing a small part of Ærø’s history. The apartments have been restored but still contain a contemporary Danish modern art and antique collection. The rooms cost about $180/night, and the weekdays are often cheaper than the weekends.

Bed and Breakfasts

Stay in a converted sea captain’s manor, built in 1784, where you’ll be cared for by the owner Susanna who serves afternoon tea to all her guests in her charming Danish garden. Vestergade 44 bed and breakfast can be found up the street from the ferry station in Ærøskobing, so it’s easily accessible even on foot. There are a variety of rooms, each decorated in its own style with collections of art and antiques to make the room feel authentic and lived in. The rooms cost $189 US/night for a double room.

Guesthouses

The difference between a guest house and a bed-and-breakfast is that inside the guest house, you have ample access to the kitchen, living rooms and other parts of the house. It’s more like staying in a room in a large house, so you feel a part of a lively community of people.

There are various guesthouses to choose from, so just look at what unique features they have and pick your favourite. Bakkehuset, located on the island’s northeast side, just minutes away from the sea, is a post-card perfect place to stay. You have access to their lush gardens, where you can even sample different fruits from their trees. The rooms are surprisingly modern, with an unmistakable Danish touch. $212 US/night (for more than one night).

How to Get Around

By Car

If you’re renting a car while visiting Ærø, you’ll find exploring the island incredibly easy. There is ample parking in town, and even if you want to stop your car along the roads, it’s easy enough to just pull over and enjoy the view. Most guesthouses and Airbnbs have parking options if you want to leave the car alone and spend the rest of your time on Ærø by foot or bike.

by Bus

If you arrived on the island without a car, you might wonder how you could get around. The island offers a free tourist bus which runs the length of the island from Søby to Marstal via Ærøskøbing. They depart about once an hour in each direction. For the complete timetable, you can check it out here. After 9 am, they accept bikes on the bus, so if you find yourself out of energy, this is always an option to help you get back to your lodging.

Our guesthouse host picked us up from the ferry station when we arrived and even offered to drive us to and from different destinations on the island, so never be nervous to ask your hosts for help. We found everyone on the island incredibly helpful and kind, and they were keen to show off their favourite parts of Ærø.

by Bike

Biking across the island was our main method of transportation. After settling down in your hotel or at your guesthouse, go about finding a bike. Every guesthouse or hotel will rent you a bike (usually for free) that you can ride all over the island. No bike locks are needed, as Ærø is the safest place in the world! Just park your bike anywhere that is safe from traffic and head on your way.

Advice on Biking around the Island

For the most part, the island is fairly easy to bike around. But when the wind picks up, and you’re biking up hills, it can require a little more effort, but it’s well worth it. Taking a tour of the island by bike, you’ll see, in a much more intimate way. See the texture of the landscape, the smell of the wind and all the little details that pop out at you only by whizzing around on a two-wheel joy-ride. Biking across the countryside, you’ll see wild lilacs, roses, buck-thorn and more of the incredible wild and farmed flower fields. You’ll pass thatched houses and old Danish churches. Bike maps can be found at the tourist office or just from your host. We stuck our paper map in our bike basket and used that as our GPS the entire time.

Things to Do on Aero

I wanted to break up the activities into various villages and areas of the island. This is a perfect way to break up your days. Take a bike ride to one village and explore what you find there. Don’t be scared to get lost. We often got off the main road or pathway and found various surprising treasures. All the different places to see are detailed on the map.

Things to Do in Ærøskøbing

Walking around the old town

Truly my favourite thing to do while in the old fairy-tale village of Ærøskøbing was to explore the colourful, antiquated houses and cobblestone lanes. Some of these houses date back to the 1600s. And honestly haven’t been touched, except for a bit of new paint, ever since. The main road is great for spotting all these beautiful houses. But be sure to explore the side streets and alleys that veer off to find those hidden corners of the village which can unlock all sorts of secrets.

Even after hundreds of years, the owners’ care in maintaining their homes means they look unchanged but in great condition. Like a ship in a bottle, protected from harm or time. Keep your eyes peeled for the various red-painted buildings. These houses were once painted using real ox blood, giving them a slightly macabre feeling as you pass by, despite the cheery colour.

The Mirror Houses

Although it’s rumoured that no one locks their doors in this town, if you look closely, you’ll see many houses have strange mirrors outside their front windows. These mirrors are used to see the street from inside the house. But they weren’t used for security; they were for town gossip! In a town as small as this, gossip runs ripe, and it’s amazing to see these devices they created to make it easier to spy on their neighbours, something you wouldn’t see anywhere else in the world. We made it game spotting all the different mirrors as we passed by each house along the lane.

Torvet Square

The main town square is located outside of the Ærøskobing church. Although not labelled on any maps, you’ll see the words “Visdommens Kiled” marked where you’ll find the square. This, translated from Danish, means “the Source of Wisdom.” In the middle ages, meetings in the town square were the only way such a small village would learn about the day’s news or what was happening on the mainland. Today, in the busier summer months, marketplaces often sell goods and foods from across the island. And still, even today, villagers meet here to discuss the local news and gossip about the latest town tittle-tattle.

In the centre of the square are two old hand pumps. For years many of the houses in the village had to use to get their water from these two hand pumps alone. And while this seems like something which would have been used hundreds of years ago, they were still being used by villagers as recently as 1951 when the last house finally got running water installed!

Doorways of Ærø

One of the things I loved to study most when exploring Ærøskobing was looking at all the different doorway designs. The town feels so alive and vibrant. Each quirky-looking door makes the house feel like they have its own personality and character. Despite this small, quiet village, it feels lively and exciting just with a little paint and decoration.

Ærøskøbing Church

Besides the town square, you’ll find Ærøskøbing Church. You can spot it from afar by its red terracotta-coloured roof standing tall above the houses, capped by its green copper onion dome. This church dates back to 1756, but the land it was built on has the remains of church foundations dating back to the 13th century. The baptismal font found inside is a remnant of that original church and truly a treasure of the island. One of the most interesting parts of the church is the small entrance, with its bright blue painted doors and geometric roof line in the shape of a cross. This part of the church feels so modern in its simplicity despite being designed so many years ago.

Ærøskøbing Bibliotek

Written across the top of the Ærøskøbing library are the words’ with law, you shall build’ written in Danish. This library was established in 1863 and has been a central part of the village. You’ll find old wooden shelves lined with ancient and modern books if you step inside. A small coffee vending machine keeps people awake against the odds as the peaceful silence which fills the room is near impossible not to fall asleep to. If you’re interested in peeking into the archives, you can find a wealth of information about the island’s history dating back hundreds of years. These books are beautifully well-kept, so if you’re a bibliophile, this is the place for you!

Hammerichs Hus

If you’re looking for a quirky museum to visit on a rainy day, check out the Hammerichs Hus. The Hammerichs Hus is a trio of half-timbered houses from the 17th and 18th centuries. Named after the sculptor Gunnar Hammerich, the museum houses a collection of rarities he collected over his life in Ærø. Upstairs in the house, the walls are lined with over 3000 blue and white porcelain tiles. You’ll love this museum if you love antiques and looking at people’s cabinets of curiosity.

Flaske Peters Samling

Peter Jacobsen was an incredible resident of Ærø who spent his life making ‘ships-in-bottle.’ This museum is dedicated to his life’s work and contains over 750 tiny reproductions. He made over 1,700, but the museum features many different shapes and designs he created. Jacobsen used to brag that he drank every single bottle he made into a ship, although we should mention they are all made from milk bottles. Considering that Ærø is a maritime city, this museum felt wonderfully apt and one of those little oddities you’ll only find in a small town.

Det Gamle Værft

Sitting in the main harbour of Ærøskøbing is the mini ship-repair shop. There is always a vessel sitting out in the yard in different stages of repair. It’s entertaining and interesting to watch them fix up these old boats to head back out on the waters. Just like new. During certain times of the year, they offer tours and even let you learn how to work a blacksmith’s forge used to repair the ships.

Follow the Nightwatch in Aeroskobing

During the busy summer months, on Wednesdays and Saturdays, you can get a nighttime guided tour of the old city of Ærøskøbing. Your guide will be dressed in the old-fashioned garb of a nightwatchman and will lead you around the city as the sun begins to set, giving the entire place a different atmosphere and appearance. All the guides are great storytellers, and you’ll learn unique tales and legends from the town’s history told by the locals themselves.

Molestien Lane

This thin gravel path across from the beach is a lovely way to peek at some of the real, lived-in houses in Ærø. The path backs out on the back gardens of various residents on the island. Some used to be occupied by boat captains who made Ærø their home. The locals nicknamed this pathway “Virgin’s Lane” as younglings used to court along this path in clear view of their parents, who sat in their gardens watching over them. As you walk along the path, you’ll see dozens of old boats sitting on the grass, flowers and moss growing over their bright and colourful hulls.

Bio Andelen

Bio Andelen, or Andelen Cinema, is the town’s only movie theatre and Denmark’s smallest cinema. Various international films are shown here in their original language, so you’ll almost always find something to watch if you speak English. It’s a great way to spend an evening with the locals!

Ærø Bowlingcenter

If the weather is a little less than perfect, the bowling alley is a great option if you want something to do in the evening or even during the day. There might only be four lanes, but this quaint little alley with its charming cafe is a lovely place to while away the time.

Aero Whisky

You’ll find a long grey building along the Old Merchant’s Court with teal window frames and a small sign with the letters’ DKG’. This is Ærø’s Whisky distillery in Danish called ‘Den Gamle Købmandsgaard.’ The large shop does more than sell whiskey; it is like a little market with delicious baked goods, local produce and whiskey. Their original purpose for establishing the DGK was to help create more jobs in Ærø outside of just the tourism business and to highlight the incredible farmers, cooks and craftsmen in Ærø.

The whiskey distillery is the smallest in Demark and is housed in an old washhouse. You can tour the distillery during high season and sample the whisky they make year-round. It’s interesting to learn that the wort they used in the distilling process is actually provided from the Rise Bryggeri (brewery) just a few villages over. It’s lovely to see how each of these businesses is helping each other to create a better product instead of competing against each other. That is teamwork at its finest.

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Blåbær Gårdbutik

Blåbær Gårdbutik is an adorable shop selling a variety of goods, all of which were produced in Ærø by items farmed on the island. From goat’s milk soaps, handicrafts, beeswax candles and sheep wool clothing, everything you’ll find here is made by the locals. The farm was first built in 1850 and has been raising different animals ever since. They are committed to sustainability, quality and animal welfare and welcome visitors to see their farm in the works and visit the shop. During the summer, they even have a small cafe where you can sit on picnic benches and enjoy the sounds of the farm around you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Things to Do in Marstal

While Ærøskøbing might feel like a fairy-tale village, Marstal feels like a maritime museum. For centuries Marstal vessels have sailed the seven seas, and even today, its dock is full of commercial and personal boats. Marstal is the economic centre of Ærø and where you can find most day-to-day shops, like the largest supermarket on the island. Ærøskøbing feels like it stopped in the middle ages, while Marstal stands at the forefront of innovations and solar power. The island is on its way to being completely self-sufficient, with Northern Europe’s largest solar power complexes and dozens of windmills powering the island.

Maritime Museum

The Maritime Museum in Marstal is the most popular attraction drawing people into the city. The museum details the maritime history of Denmark since the 1600s, and its 37 exhibits span over 5 buildings in Marstal! There are 200 model ships, 130 ships in a bottle, portraits of famous sailors and lots and lots of gear and equipment from original ships. If you’re a fan of maritime history, this doesn’t get much better!

Church of Marstal

The Marstal Church dates back to 1738. The church’s exterior is a simple white brick and red-roofed design with a copper steeple. Inside, things are a little bit different. You’ll notice right away when stepping inside the strong colours! The blue benches are a symbol of the sea and eternity. At the front of the nave is the bright red altar, a lovely triptych painted by the maritime and Greenland painter Carl Rasmussen in 1881. As is fitting for an island church, it depicts Christ calming the storm on the Lake of Genezareth. From the ceiling hang dozens of miniature ships intermingled amongst the chandeliers.

Things to do in Søby

Søby is the smallest of the main villages in Ærø. They call it the gateway to Europe as it is the northernmost point on the island and, therefore, the closest to the mainland of Europe. Today, you’ll find most of Ærø’s fishing fleet. Tourists looking to hire a boat to go out on the water to see if they can get the catch of the day often gather here early in the morning before the sun has even risen.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Skjoldnæs Fyr

At the island’s tip, bikers who make it out here will be rewarded by a beautiful site; the ‘Skjoldnæs’ Lighthouse. It was built in 1881 and still stands today as a landmark of the island. You can still climb to the top, with the most scenic views of the island and across the Baltic Sea. If you feel like the bike ride up here might be too much, you can always take the free bus, which runs all the way to Søby, where you can walk the rest of the way to the lighthouse.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Sæberiet

Sæberiet is a small shop which sells soaps and spiced salts made from different flowers and herbs all grown on the island. During the summer, they open their doors to guests who can come in and see the soap workshop in action. Their unique scents, like elderflower, scotch rose, marigold and lemon balm, make for a wonderful souvenir of the island.

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Herremark

This charming little white cottage sells a blend of hand-picked vintage goods, often themed to the season, locally made products and handicrafts. It is a bright and cheery store, and the people who run it are so happy to welcome you inside to browse all their wonderful goods. I love scouring for vintage finds when travelling; they are always so different than what we can find back home.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Økogård Vitsø

This little farm is run by Johannes Hets, who has three big passions: yoga, farming and bees! They offer yoga classes with an unbeatable sea view out in the garden when the weather permits. It’s open to beginners and experts, so if you’re interested in starting your day with a little meditation and relaxation, don’t miss visiting this Johannes. If yoga isn’t your thing, you should still pay the farm a visit and explore the incredible garden which Johannes has grown specifically for his bees. During the summertime, there are bee presentations held by Johannes where visitors can even try their hand at holding bees and tasting the amazing honey the natural flowers of Aero help to produce!

Other Things to See and Do Around the Island

Bregninge Kirke

Biking over to the Bregninge kirke (Bregninge church) is a great way to explore the island’s centre. You’ll be able to spot it long before you arrive, as its tall black tower is visible above the treetops. But like the other churches on the island, they are all inland where the steeples cannot be seen from the water. This was a strategic piece of city planning done by the Islanders.

This would prevent pirates from coming ashore in the middle ages as they would assume the peaceful island was uninhabited. Remnants of the first church built here have been dated back as far as 1100. The current incarnation is a 15th-century gothic design. Inside you’ll find a series of murals of Jesus’ Passion and the life of St. John the Baptist. But my favourite part of the church is the cemetery. A few gravestones are surrounded by a fantastically manicured hedge and flower garden.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Bregninge Store Kro

Down from the Bregninge Church, you’ll find the adorable Bregninge Store Kro. This store is like a little flea market open year-round. Here you’ll find some treasured antiques from all around Denmark, making for a really unique souvenir. If you’re looking for a doorknob or drawer, pull. There are hundreds here to choose from, each with its own vintage charm.

The Vesterstrand Beach Huts

Down from Bregninge, you’ll find dozens of picturesque tiny huts lining a long stretch of sand. These beach huts are brightly coloured and designed to suit each owner’s personality. The miniature huts along the sand have been used here for generations. Once just simple wooden shelters, they are now incredibly functional getaways where locals enjoy picnics on their little balconies, which stretch out from under darling awnings.

It was a bit rainy when we arrived, so no one else was on the beach but us. We hid under one of the huts to avoid the pouring rain as it got worse and worse and hoped that no one would come to shoo us away. Luckily they did not, and we spent the time waiting out the rain, peeking inside the little windows into these huts. Inside, they looked like a minature version of a cottage, with their knickknacks all over the walls, rich textiles layering the small chairs and couches and some even were complete with a sink and a toilet!

Voderup Klint

A few kilometres down from the Beach huts, you’ll find the Voderup Klint. The Voderup’ Klint’, or ‘cliff’ in English, is a 33-meter-high cliff which leads down to a rocky beach. This stretch of emerald green grass reaches out towards the sea and looks more like Ireland than Denmark. It is a scenic place to have a picnic or lunch and watch the waves rise and fall on a windy day. A small pathway leads you down from the top of the cliff towards the water. You can hear the sea crash against the shore as you continue down, and the fresh air here is enough to cure whatever ails you!

Rise Bryggeri

If you find yourself near rising Bryggeri, stop for a cold Danish beer. This was once a small dairy farm which has since been transformed into a cafe and the only beer brewery on the island. The brewery was originally opened in 1926 but closed its doors in 1962. Lucky for you, it was reopened in 2004 when Aero was put back on the map for its incredible tourist appeal and energy-efficient solar power technologies. This microbrewery focuses on quality vs. quantity, so you might pay a little more for what you get, but it’s well worth it. Be sure to try out the nutty and sweet Walnut beer as they make the most unique creation. Upstairs from the brewery, you’ll find a lovely cafe serving uncomplicated Danish comfort food, perfect for warming you up after a windy bike ride.

Ærø Cigar

If smoking a cigar on the balcony with the seaside in your sights is your thing, stop by Ærø Cigar. These small producers grow and hand roll their cigars from pesticide-free farms with locally grown leaves. Danish cigars are unique and worth trying, if only as a special treat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The Kragnæs Passage Grave

Across the island, there are various Neolithic burial mounds, passage graves and dolmens which trance the pre-Christian history of life on the island. The most famous of these grave sites is the passage grave from the Stone Age, around 3200 BC! A passage tomb consists of a narrow passage made of large stones and one or multiple burial chambers covered in earth or stone.

From afar, it looks like nothing more than a pile of lush grass, but as you approach, you’ll see an arrangement of rocks which forms a chamber. The chamber is 17 meters wide and 2.5 meters high. The rocks on top were not only to mark the tombs; they were a gathering spot for the Viking ancestors. The stones were thought to help with fertility, and even in more modern times, locals have been known to chip off bits of stones and take them home in the hope it imbues them with virility!

Langdyssen Tingstedet

Near the church of Stone Rise, you’ll find a 6,000-year-old dolmen. A ‘dolmen’ is a megalithic tomb with large, flat stones on top of upright ones. While the island was once home to more than 200 of these sites, less than 13 survive today. Once more, these don’t look like much from afar, but when you get closer, you’ll see the ground begin to rise up, and the risen ground takes the shape of a Viking ship. Archaeologists studying the history of Vikings on the island have found evidence that the Viking chiefs were buried here along with their ships.

øhavstien

øhavstien, or the “Archipelago Way,” is a 200-km long hiking trail and one of the longest hiking routes in Denmark. It is divided into seven different sections spread out across Denmark. The 7th section is located in Ærø and starts in Ærøskøbing and runs all along the coast to Søby or vice versa. You can hike the entire trail or take just a few hours to experience some of the trails. The trail allows you to take in all the island’s coastal areas in one fell swoop. The trail is well-marked along the route, making it easy for even beginner hikers to set out. Ærø is a great place to hike since it’s mostly flat, especially around the coast, and you’re promised some incredible views. If you’re tired of being on 2-wheels, this is a great break from the bike.

Where to Eat

Ærøskøbing Røgeri

Ærøskøbing Røgeri was our favourite place to eat while we were in town. During the off-season and even on most weekends, many places close between 5-6pm. So we’d often pick up one of these meals to take back with us for a later dinner. The small restaurant serves smoked fish of all different varieties. Smoked fish is a local delicacy of the Danes and a must-try if you’ve never sampled it. You’ll smell that unique aroma of salt and fish when you walk inside. Try all their different side dishes, and don’t immediately go for the fries.

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Cafe Aroma

If you’re looking for somewhere to eat in Aeroskobing, look no further than this absolutely adorable, colourful cafe. This cafe serves up some gourmet Danish treats made from local ingredients. Their charcuterie platters are great options if you want to try a variety of Danish delicacies. In the summer, the barbeque on the terrace is open and is a wonderful place to watch people while eating. If your hotel or guesthouse is in town, this cafe is also great for a morning cup of coffee. For dessert, don’t miss the apricot ice cream, a local specialty. The restaurant is closed for the winter season but is open again in the Spring.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Restaurant Mumm

An option for a fancy dinner in town is Restaurant Mumm. Reservations are recommended since it’s a popular joint, and there aren’t a lot of seats inside, especially during the busy summer season and on the weekends. But unlike Cafe Aroma, this restaurant is open all year long and even prides itself on having custom menus for each season, highlighting the different ingredients that time of year produces. The restaurant’s interior has a romantic candlelit atmosphere, while the terrace is overgrown with greenery and has a more laid-back feeling if that’s what you prefer. It’s definitely a pricer option, but if you’re looking to celebrate something special, this is the place for you.

Ærøskøbing Bageri Aps

I might be biased since I LOVE baked goods, but I think this is the best place to eat in Aero. This adorable little bakery serves tons of sweets inside a cozy red brick cafe, a converted 18th-century house. Ask the nice ladies inside what they recommend instead of just getting what’s familiar to you. They also sell fresh bread here, so grab a loaf and head to the grocery stores for a few other items to make yourself a stunning picnic!

Ristorante Pizzeria Badehotel Harmonien

If you want to try something other than Danish cooking, head down to the Pizzeria inside the Badehotel Harmonien hotel. This restaurant has a wood fire oven for freshly baked pizzas and is located along the waterfront. On warm summer evenings, you can eat alfresco with the sounds of the sea as the backdrop.

Glasseriet

In the summer, the Glasseriet serves up different flavours of Italian gelato inside a little gallery space featuring art and a variety of handblown glass objects. This unique blend of shops is great about this small town; they can do whatever they want.

Café Vaffelhuset

Located right up from the waterfront in Marstal, Café Vaffelhuset is a great place to cool down on a hot day. They sell delicious waffles topped with ice cream for only $6 US. During the summer, they have tables on the street so you can enjoy your dessert while watching people go by. So many people arrive on bikes, and it’s nice to watch them cruise by.

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SuperBrugsen

The supermarket in Marstal is the largest on the island. Locals gather to shop for themselves, so it’s a great opportunity to see all the different foods offered at small-town Danish supermarkets. This store is open until 7pm, which is very late in Aero, so if you ever find yourself with nowhere to eat at 5pm because everything is closed, head down to the grocery store!

Den Gamle Vingaard

This little pub in Marstal feels like walking into an old farmhouse. There is various antique farming equipment hanging from the ceiling. Try the “fish of the day” with samsø potatoes and a special mustard sauce. This is the best way to get the freshest catch and maybe even try something you might never have eaten before.

Ærø is truly a rare gem, a secret escape even the Danes love to visit when they have time to explore their own country. There are various islands off the coast of Denmark, each with its unique characteristics. But my favourite has to be Ærø. There is a certain magic found here; along the azul-coloured coastlines or lush green hills. Place to find those quiet moments important to travel. In these quiet moments, you have a chance to reflect, absorb everything you’ve discovered, and make those discoveries a part of your soul and etched into your memory. I am counting the days till I can return here. This place where my heart found a stillness and peace. Something truly so hard to find in this busy, non-stop world. I hope you find it too.

The post The Ultimate Guide to Exploring the Natural Beauty of Ærø Island [UPDATED 2023] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Prague Castle takes up over 70,000 square metres. The various buildings inside date as far back as the 9th century. Hidden within these walls, seemingly ubiquitous townhomes, storefronts and little passageways have been left to the passage of time, almost untouched from the modern world. This timeless atmosphere is a big drawn for tourists wanted to escape and each year more than 1.8 million footsteps tread on these cobblestones.