What we found throughout the weekend truly surprised us. As well as everyone else we shared our trip with. We discovered that behind the outlet malls and great department stores is a city rich in history, culture, and charm! From the architectural masterpieces of Frank Lloyd Wright to the vintage shopping scene and the foodie paradise, Buffalo is a city that will truly amaze you. In this guide, we’ll show you how to discover an alternative side to the town and where to find all of Buffalo’s Hidden Gems!

Table Of Contents

1. Map of Buffalo's Hidden Gems
2. Stay in a Gorgeous Historical Mansion
3. Discover Frank Lloyd Wright's Darwin Martin House
4. Explore Buffalo's Vintage Shopping Scene
5. See a Movie at the Old North Park Theatre
6. Indulge in Buffalo's Foodie Paradise
7. Share a Sundae inside Parkside Candy
8. Relax in the Natural Oasis of the Buffalo Botanical Garden
9. Dive into Buffalo's Street Art Scene
10. Discover the Downtown Architecture
11. Be One of the First to see the New AKG Art Museum
12. Feel Like a Kid Again Riding the Buffalo Heritage Carousel
13. Tour a Haunted Asylum
14. Grab a Flight at a Local Brewery

Map of Buffalo’s Hidden Gems

Stay in a Gorgeous Historical Mansion

When we were first planning our trip, we knew we wanted to stay somewhere that made the weekend away worth it. And when I saw the pictures from InnBuffalo, I fell immediately in love. Staying at this lavish bed and breakfast was perhaps the biggest highlight of the weekend. The InnBuffalo Bed and Breakfast is a historic and charming boutique hotel located in the historic neighbourhood of Elmwood. The house, or rather the mansion, was built in 1898! So you are sleeping inside a piece of Buffalo history. The beautifully restored mansion, now a bed and breakfast, features exquisite architecture, elegant décor, and modern amenities. Everything to create a comfortable and welcoming atmosphere for guests.

Joe, the amiable owner, welcomed us home like we had been lifelong friends. The hospitality here is unrivalled from anywhere I’ve ever travelled. We’ve already started planning our next visit with no plans other than to relax on Joe’s peaceful front porch and read a good book! It’s just that wonderful of a place to stay. The true definition of home away from home.

InnBuffalo Suites

The old home has 13 different guest rooms. Each styled with its own unique decor and furnishings. We stayed in the Art Nouveau East suite on the third floor. It was super spacious, with one of the most comfortable beds I’ve ever slept in. The heated marble floors in the bathroom were such a nice touch. Very important in these old buildings that tend to get chilly, especially during the frigid Buffalo winters. Next time, we will be sure to book one of the rooms with a fireplace and bathtub to complete the warm and snuggly experience. Each room came with it’s own little coffee maker, but I loved going downstairs to enjoy my coffee in their antique breakfast room.

Guests at the InnBuffalo can enjoy a delicious complimentary breakfast each morning. The breakfast featured freshly baked pastries that you could hear being made in the back kitchen when you came downstairs. The smell of baking scones greeting you good morning. In addition to this, there was fresh fruit, homemade granola, and yogurt. Along with, of course, coffee, tea and fruit juice. Sitting in their sumptuously decorated dining room and enjoying this delicious breakfast was the perfect way to start the day! But it did make it hard to want to leave. Remember to book direct to save 15%!

Discover Frank Lloyd Wright’s Darwin Martin House

While researching the trip to Buffalo, I was amazed that in 2019, one of Frank Lloyd Wright‘s housing masterpieces had just finished its multi-million dollar restoration. And it was finally open to the public! I jumped at the opportunity to explore another of his homes and booked the tickets immediately.

History of the Darwin Martin House

If you’re a fan of architecture, then you must visit Frank Lloyd Wright’s Darwin Martin House. The Darwin Martin House was originally designed by Wright in 1904 for businessman Darwin Martin and his family. The Darwin Martin House comprises several interconnected structures. The main house stretches out, not up, in comparison to the other surrounding Victoria-style nhouses. Reaching like limbs across the property. Its long, outdoor covered walkway connects the main house to the conservatory, a carriage house and a gardener’s cottage.

The main house features an open-plan living and dining area, a library with hidden bookshelves, and several bedrooms and bathrooms. You are given free rein to explore each room on the guided tour, with no velvet ropes separating you from the home. Just don’t sit on any of the old furniture.

Frank Lloyd Wright’s Design Style

The house features Wright’s signature Prairie School architectural style. These designs are characterized by horizontal lines, low-pitched roofs, and integration of the home with the surrounding landscape. Wright utilized over 400 different types of art glass throughout the house, creating a stunning interplay of light and colour. The house also features intricate woodwork, including over 300 pieces of furniture designed by Wright.

The Decline and Potential Destruction of the House

Sadly, after the Wall Street Crash of 1929, the Martin family lost most of their family fortune. When Martin died in 1936, during the Great Depression, his wife wanted to sell the house to recoup her own growing personal expenses. But she found that trying to sell such an expensive house was impossible. Instead of continuing to search for find buyers, Mrs. Martin just walked out the front door. Literally leaving the house unlocked and open to squatters and the elements. It quickly deteriorated with no one there to take care of it. Entire parts of the house were destroyed and eventually totally torn down to make room for other potential properties. It wouldn’t be long before nothing was left except the memories…

After his death in 1959, Frank Lloyd Wright’s houses became architectural treasures. And those that weren’t already owned were hidden gems. But the Darwin House was in rough shape, and no one thought it could be saved. But in 1992, the Martin House Restoration Corporation was formed and began a massive undertaking to restore the house to its former glory.

The Great Restoration

The restoration of the Darwin Martin House was a significant undertaking. The project took over 20 years to complete and cost millions upon millions of dollars. During this time, the project team conducted extensive research to understand every tiny detail from the original designs. Aiming to preserve and restore this iconic architectural masterpiece to its original condition. The restoration process involved enlisting all different types of artists. From stained art glass makers, to masons, carpenters and woodworkers.

The result of their efforts is a beautifully restored masterpiece that showcases the talent and vision of Frank Lloyd Wright. Perhaps the greatest American architect. Visitors can now experience the house for themselves. With the guided tours, you can explore the fantastic interiors and learn all about the little details that make Frank Lloyd Wright such an illustrious architect.

Explore Buffalo’s Vintage Shopping Scene

Now, it’s time for some shopping! But not the kind you usually think of. Let’s head out to explore Buffalo’s thriving vintage and antique shopping scene. Perfect for those who love unique finds. You can find everything from retro clothing to bygone furniture in Buffalo’s vintage shops. Hertel Avenue in North Park, is a haven for vintage enthusiasts with numerous boutiques and shops. The Antique Lamp Co. is a magical little shop overflowing with vintage lamps and retro-inspired decorations. Queen City Vintage has some of Buffalo’s best vintage sports apparel if you love a good retro tee. And for a rummage around a labyrinth of unique and one-of-a-kind antiques, check out Queen City Antiques!

COOCOOU

If you’re a serious antique furniture and art lover, head to the secretive COOCOOU antique warehouse. This place is located in the North part of Buffalo in what I would otherwise have thought to be an abandoned warehouse. But walking inside, you suddenly find a treasure trove of high-end vintage designer furniture. All stacked on top of each other, vying for space and attention. I saw a Herman Miller chair, tons of authentic mid-century pieces and some drool-worthy art. Even if you can’t afford anything (like me), it’s worth exploring, almost like going to a museum!

See a Movie at the Old North Park Theatre

Also, in the North Park neighbourhood is where we find the old North Park Theatre. A historic movie theatre that was built here way back in 1920! It was initially constructed to screen silent movies. But after years of neglect, it has since been restored and renovated to its former glory! Today, the theatre shows a mix of classic and contemporary films and often hosts special events like local film festivals and more.

North Park’s iconic Art Deco marquee was installed in 1941 and is still, to this day, one of the highlights of driving through this neighbourhood. Along with the marquee, the interiors have also been lovingly cared for. The beautiful and ornate Art Deco designs, featuring intricate plasterwork, vibrant stained glass, and other decorative elements, all make you feel like you’ve gone back in time to when going to the movies was an elegant affair. North Park Theatre is a must-visit destination for movie lovers and anyone interested in the history of cinema. Check out the showtimes to see what’s playing when you’re in town!

Indulge in Buffalo’s Foodie Paradise

Buffalo is a city that takes its food seriously! And you’ll find plenty of delicious options. But if you’re visiting Buffalo for the first time, you should make a point to order the most famous food to come out of the city. And that is, you might have guessed it, Buffalo Wings. Yes, this staple menu item found in pubs and bistros all over the world was first invented right here in Buffalo. Where it got its name. They were first served at the Anchor Bar in Buffalo, which is still open today! The story goes that the bar’s owner, Teressa Bellissimo, created the dish for her son. He and his friends came to the bar looking for a snack. So she took some chicken wings destined for soup, deep-fried them, and coated them in a hot sauce. The wings were an instant hit, and the rest is history. 

Another popular spot for Buffalo wings is Duff’s. Duffs has been serving up Buffalo Wings since 1969 and is known for its spicy wing sauce! But my favourite spot for wings is Allen Burger Venture or ABV to locals. This hip joint might claim to specialize in gourmet burgers and craft beer. But I come here for the wings. Ask to get them “crispy” and to be served with a lemon wedge on the side! That’s the way the Buffalonians eat them. You’ll never eat a Buffalo wing plain again!

Share a Sundae inside Parkside Candy

If you have a sweet tooth, there is no better or more beautiful place to go than Parkside Candy! Parkside Candy and ice cream parlour were established back in 1927. From the minute it came onto the scene, it was a beloved local institution. As soon as you walk inside, you’ll immediately be overwhelmed by the charming old-fashioned decor emanating from every corner of the shop. It almost looks like nothing in here has changed a bit since 1927. The store’s decor blends art deco, art nouveau, and classical design together. Elegantly curved stucco ornaments and gold gilding swirl around the walls. Pink roses cover the wallpaper, and then there is the bold black and white tiled floor to create a bit of juxtaposition with the otherwise delicate designs.

The walls are lined with shelves and display cases filled with an impressive variety of candies, chocolates, and other sweets. All are arranged in colourful and eye-catching displays. We bought their sponge toffee, and let me tell you, this is another reason we need to come back ASAP! One of the highlights of Parkside Candy is its vintage ice cream parlour. This is a great spot to sit and relax on a hot summer’s day and enjoy a cool sundae with a cherry on top! Tucked away in their romantic alcoves that surround the store. Just the most darling thing I can imagine.

Relax in the Natural Oasis of the Buffalo Botanical Garden

Buffalo gets its fair share of bad weather, but the city has so many indoor places to come and escape the storms! One of the most amazing is the Buffalo and Erie County Botanical Gardens. No matter what time of year, even in the dead of winter, you can come into this glass cathedral to feel the warmth of the summer while strolling through its collection of tropical plants from around the world.

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The garden covers over 11 acres of indoor and outdoor exhibits. Its most impressive place to admire is the Palm Dome, a stunning glass-enclosed conservatory. Marvel at the towering palm trees, vibrant orchids, and exotic ferns that seem to emerge from every little nook and cranny. My favourite time of year to visit is the Spring when their tulips bloom in every colour of the rainbow. During the summer, you must check out their fantastical Japanese Garden and Rose Garden, which boasts over 2,500 roses! One can only imagine the perfume-like smell coming from these roses that waft throughout the perfectly manicured gardens. Absolute heaven.

Dive into Buffalo’s Street Art Scene

It might surprise you that Buffalo is an up-and-coming destination for street art enthusiasts. The city’s vibrant art scene boasts a range of styles, from abstract murals to thought-provoking political statements. With so much real estate up for grabs, many street artists have been reclaiming parts of the downtown as their living canvas. While Buffalo might not be one of the most walkable cities, we could easily drive from one spot to the next. Hopping out of the car to look at some of the most memorable pieces. 

One of the best murals to see is “Wildflowers for Buffalo” by artist Louise Jones, also known as Ouizi. The massive mural spans the side of a building and depicts a vibrant array of wildflowers. Aiming to highlight the beauty of nature in an urban environment. The piece has become a beloved landmark in the city and is a must-see for anyone visiting Buffalo. For more info on where on to find street art in Buffalo, check out this site!

Discover the Downtown Architecture

One of the most surprising things about our trip to Buffalo was driving through the downtown and being in total awe of the architecture. The architecture in downtown Buffalo is a mix of various styles and eras. But wherever you look, you’ll find hidden images of Buffalo’s embedded everywhere you go. It’s like a built in scavenger hunt are you explore.

The most prominent architectural style is Art Deco. Art Deco is characterized by geometric shapes, streamlined forms, and bold, decorative elements. The most impressive of these art deco buildings is Buffalo City Hall, which is one of the largest and most impressive Art Deco buildings in the world. Simply wandering along Main Street, you come upon building after building with the most amazing display of architectural decor. 

Be One of the First to see the New AKG Art Museum

If you prefer the indoor approach to art, come June 2023, you NEED to make your way over to the Buffalo AKG Art Museum. In 2019, the museum underwent a major renovation project that cost over $160 million and took over five years to complete. The renovation added a new wing to the museum and updated much of the museum’s original 1905 building.

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But one of the most significant changes was reconfiguring the museum’s outdoor space, which was transformed into a public park with walking paths, a reflecting pool, and a new public sculpture garden. Sculpture gardens are one of the most interesting art forms to me as you can enjoy beautiful natural environments while surrounded by stunning works of art. There is just something about viewing art outside that brings the experiences to another level.

Inside the museum, you can see their vast modern and contemporary art collection. Same art but featured inside a brand new building. This includes works by famous artists such as Vincent van Gogh, Pablo Picasso, and Jackson Pollock.

Feel Like a Kid Again Riding the Buffalo Heritage Carousel

If you want whimsical fun, head to the riverside Buffalo Heritage Carousel. The Buffalo Heritage Carousel is a stunning piece of historical art that brings a smile to everyone who walks through the doors. The old carousel features 48 hand-carved wooden animals located along the Buffalo Waterfront’s Canalside. Each one is meticulously hand-painted and unique, allowing every rider to choose an animal that speaks to them. 

The carousel also features a beautiful, hand-painted mural that depicts iconic Buffalo landmarks and symbols, including the Buffalo City Hall and the grain elevators. When the carousel was recently restored, it was also given a special update to make it more accessible for anyone in a wheelchair or mobility aid. Love seeing these additions to ensure everyone can ride the carousel.

Wurlitzer Band Organ

As the carousel spins round and round, you get to listen to the amazing nostalgic sounds of the rare Wurlitzer band organ that plays nearby. The Rudolph Wurlitzer Company initially manufactured the band organ in the early 1900s. Wurlitzer’s were originally designed to replicate the sound of a live band. The drums and cymbals are mechanically operated by the organ’s paper rolls. The music was so surprising when it first started. It sounded so realistic, and I was amazed at how rich the effect was on a machine over 100 years old.

One of the most wonderful things about the Carousel is that it costs only a dollar to ride! That is almost unheard of in this economy but a wonderful surprise to those looking for inexpensive entertainment for their kids. It’s only open on the weekends, so remember that when planning your trip!

Tour a Haunted Asylum

The Richardson Olmsted Campus is a sprawling 90-acre complex of Gothic-style buildings once home to a state-of-the-art psychiatric hospital. Today, the campus has been transformed into, of all things, a modern boutique hotel. It invites visitors to sleep inside what were once hospital wards of criminally insane patients. While the hotel has done all it can to separate itself from any notion of being “haunted,” it only takes visiting the campus to see why it is viewed by many as one of the most haunted places in Buffalo.

A multimillion-dollar renovation transformed a portion of the main building into the Hotel Henry. But, this hotel closed shortly after opening, citing the pandemic as the primary reason. But one only has to wonder if the ghosts were the ones who wanted them out. The building was recently repurchased and renamed The Richardson Hotel. It still welcomes visitors to stay the night, but you might find yourself sharing the room with some unwanted visitors…

Are There Really Ghosts that Haunt the Halls?

If you opt to take a guided tour, you can go inside a few of the still-untouched buildings. You only have to see some pictures from the interior buildings to understand why it is no surprise that people find it sends chills down their spine. But the architecture is also, eerily, some of the most beautiful in Buffalo. One of the main building’s most captivating but strange facets is the two enormous towers that rise high above the rest of the complex. Towers are mainly built to house bells or lookouts, but these are totally empty and merely ornamental. With nothing but platforms and ladders inside to help maintain the roof. Which feels very bizarre all in itself.

Those not brave enough to spend the night can take a self-guided tour of the old campus grounds. While the tour mostly focuses on the beauty and architectural history of the campus, it only takes a keen observer to start to notice the creepy nature of the abandoned buildings falling about at the seams.

History of Asylums

Asylums were originally set up as safe spaces for the mentally ill to seek wellness. But over time, these places became overpopulated. The building was originally meant for 600 patients, but over 3000 were housed inside. Rumours of doctors experimenting with extreme treatments on these helpless patients still remain. Creating this mythology of pain and suffering permeating throughout the walls.

Tours are available from May through October and run about an hour and thirty minutes long. They sell out quickly, so buy your tickets as soon as possible. Again, they won’t touch on ghost sightings, but you can fill in the blanks where you want.

Grab a Flight at a Local Brewery

Buffalo has a thriving brewery scene. The city’s rich history of brewing dates back to the 19th century. Back then, German immigrants came into the city in droves, bringing their brewing traditions. Today, Buffalo’s brewery scene is as diverse and vibrant as the city itself. Various breweries all over town offer everything from unique flavours to a joyful atmosphere. The perfect place to relax after a long day of exploring.

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One of the must-visit breweries in Buffalo is Resurgence Brewing Company. In a historic warehouse on the West Side of Buffalo, Resurgence offers a range of beers brewed right on-site! Everything from strong IPAs, stouts, and sour ales. The brewery has a lively and welcoming atmosphere, live music, and delicious local cuisine. You can also try out Thin Man Brewery. This brewery in Elmwood is more bohemian with a fun, inclusive, and forward-thinking approach to craft beer.

Buffalo is a city full of surprises and hidden gems just waiting to be discovered. From catching a movie at the North Park Theatre to exploring the street art scene or marvelling at the beauty of the Frank Lloyd Wright Darwin Martin House, there’s something for everyone in Buffalo.

So, what are you waiting for? Get out there and start exploring these hidden gems for yourself! You never know what kind of adventure you might stumble upon in this dynamic city. And if you have any other favourite hidden gems in Buffalo, be sure to share them with us in the comments below.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Guide to Exploring Buffalo’s Best Hidden Gems first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Whether you love science fiction, mystery novels or just chilling with the classics (or anything in between), these 10 bookshops in NYC will have something unique to offer everyone who loves a good read. I’ve been sure throughout this guide to include only cafe bookshops with space to sit and read. While some popular bookstores in New York have their own coffee counters, many only offer them to go, and we are looking for spots on this tour where you can really hunker down for the afternoon.

Table Of Contents

1. Cafe con Libros
2. McNally Jackson Books
3. The Center for Fiction
4. The Drama Book Shop
5. Molasses Books
6. New York Public Library Cafe
7. Shakespeare & Co
8. Barnes & Noble
9. Housing Works Bookstore
10. Book Club

Cafe con Libros

Cafe con Libros is literally translated into “coffee with books,” so you know you’ve come to the right place. This cozy little bookshop is hidden in Brooklyn’s Crown Heights neighbourhood. The bookshop is best known for being a black-owned feminist store featuring healing, empowering and enriching books. What could sound more comforting than that?

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Their little window seats are the perfect place to get cozy and watch the world go by. The coffee is rich and delicious, and their freshly made pastries are the ideal accompaniment to nosh on while you read. Every Sunday, there is a book club meet-up, and the sense of community in this space is unrivalled.

McNally Jackson Books

Nolita is New York’s “North of Little Italy” neighbourhood best known for its charming buildings, upscale designers and trendy boutiques. Prince Street is known for its popup jewelry and artwork vendors that swarm the street on weekends. Also along Prince Street is the McNally Jackson Books. McNally Jackson Books is a New York independent bookseller with four locations across the city. And while their location on Prince Street is far from the largest, it is indeed the most adorable.

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This shop is known for its unique curated collection of recommended books. Its “New York Reads” section is incredible for tourists. You can pick up a book that is set or inspired by the city that never sleeps. Be sure to look up when visiting! Books hung from the ceiling, like paper airplanes flying across the store.

The cafe towards the back of the shop is serving up some incredible brews and delicious baked goods. The french toast bagel is just one example of their amazing creations! This place always has me coming back to see what’s new. Park yourself in the cafe seating area to savour the smells and sounds of this endearing bookshop.

The Center for Fiction

In the centre of Brooklyn, you’ll find this monolith of literature; the Center for Fiction! The walls are toweringly high, with a huge ladder required to access the books on the tallest shelves. Like a modern-day version of Beauty and the Beast’s baroque library. The Center for Fiction opened its brick-and-mortar bookshop in 2019. The shop features floor-to-ceiling windows, allowing light to stream inside in the most heavenly way. Compared to some of the other bookstores on this list which are more dark academia, this place is contemporary chic!

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In addition to their incredible selection of books, they also frequently hold panels, lectures, seminars, reading groups, and conversations. Often led by some of the nation’s most beloved writers. Their cozy cafe and bar is a fantastic spot to come and grab a bite to eat while enjoying your newest book purchase. There are so many people here writing away on notepads and computer screens. Like you can feel the next big novel written right in the room! The vibes here are unrivalled, and it is one of the most peaceful places in the city to come, shop and relax with a cup of coffee.

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The Drama Book Shop

As New York City is home to Broadway and one of, if not the BEST, places to see live theatre! And visiting the Drama Book Shop feels like a truly New Yorkian outing! Open since 1917, the Drama Book Shop has been a mainstay of the New York theatre scene and a cultural institution. One of my favourite parts of going inside is admiring the decor. They always go all out with the store’s styling, and I’m sure they get some set decorators to help them create these fantastical displays. The most impressive is the “book tornado” that spirals throughout the store. Whirling you into a dizzying book-buying frenzy!

Historic posters from Broadway’s past line the walls. If you are a thespian book lover, you’ll be in heaven. But it’s not just playbooks and musical scores that you’ll find here. There are many books about acting, non-fiction about theatre and history books all about Broadway past and present. There is also a fantastic collection of biographies from renowned actors and writers. If you ever wanted to know the secrets of the stage, you’ll find them in the books here.

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Although the shop has been open for over 100 years, it only recently moved to this new location. The new shop was designed by Hamilton set designer David Korins. It was created to pay homage to twentieth-century European reading room cafes. So, in addition to all 8,000 playbooks, they also have a full-service cafe! I love sitting in here, because as a musical lover, they really do have the BEST playlist!

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Molasses Books

If you’re looking for a cute used bookstore in the middle of the trendy Bushwick neighbourhood, look no further than Molasses Books. Molasses Books is a small, independent publishing house focusing on poetry, contemporary writers, and out-of-print or public domain works. Their brick-and-mortar shop in Bushwick, Brooklyn, is home to a varied collection of used books. You’ll never know what you’ll find here, but you can always expect it to be good.

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The great thing about Molasses Books is that they are open from 11 am to midnight. If you’re a night owl, this is the spot for you to come to get some late-night reading done. In addition to coffee and tea, they are a fully licensed bar. So if you’re craving something a little stronger than cold brew.

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New York Public Library Cafe

One of the most incredible interiors in all of New York City has got to the awe-inspiring New York Public Library. Inside the Stephen A. Schwarzman Building. The NYC Public Library’s main branch was built in the late 1890s. The interiors were constructed in the Beaux-Arts style and featured one of the most beautiful reading rooms in the entire world. The reading room was meant to improve the morale of readers during the Great Depression. The room was meant to imbue visitors with a sense of wonder as they walked in. And even a hundred years later, I always get goosebumps walking inside.

Whether you’re a visitor or a local, you can enter this pantheon of reading and browse their collection. Tourists can’t check out books, but you’re welcome to explore. And if you’re looking to sit and enjoy a warm cup of coffee, then Amy’s Bread has you covered. Recently, Amy’s Bread opened a new location inside the Library Shop. Here, all visitors can come and grab an espresso and one of their incredible handmade pastries. Amy’s has been open in New York for over thirty years in Hell’s Kitchen. And now they have seven different shops open across the city! 

The best part of a visit to the library is that entrance to the building is free. So other than your coffee and sweet treat, the experience won’t cost you a dime! No need to buy any books. You can simply browse the shelves, find something that perks your interest and sit down to enjoy.

Shakespeare & Co

Shakespeare & Co is a well-known name in the literary game, opening their flagship store in Paris (of all places for a shop named after the English playwright.) But in 1983, they opened their New York City location along Lexington Avenue, on the Upper East Side.

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Recently, the bookshop introduced a small but top-notch cafe among the hundreds of books inside. The baristas here are friendly, and the quaint little area where you can sit and enjoy your coffee while reading is the perfect size to feel nice and cozy. The cafe also features a daily selection of Dough donuts. If you know Dough, you’ll learn how delicious these sweet pastries really are! And what’s better than doughnuts and coffee…and books?! 

Barnes & Noble

Although visiting a Barnes & Noble might sound like a boring and basic thing to do when visiting the Big Apple, the Barnes & Noble on Union Square is actually the biggest bookstore in Manhattan! This Barnes & Noble is also located inside the old headquarters of the Century Publishing Company. And the building it now resides in was built in 1881. The stunning brick and copper engravings are still the beacon of literacy that draw many into it today. Walking inside, look at the old iron columns, wooden bookshelves and library ladders. It always makes me feel like I’ve stepped back in time. And I love the store’s effort to preserve this slice of New York architectural history.

On the 3rd floor, you’ll find their coffee shop. Their cafe is vast, and there is lots and lots of space to spread out! The windows that face south also feature a gorgeous view across Union Square park, the Flatiron building and the south Manhattan skyline! Sure the coffee might be Starbucks, but the environment is so friendly and open, and you can almost always find a spot to sit! Plus, public bathrooms are a key essential any visitor knows comes in clutch. One of the other advantages of visiting such a big brand in this iconic location is often it is where authors come to have signing events. So check their schedule to see who’s in town. But hundreds of signed books are also spread out throughout the store, like hidden treasure waiting to be found.

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Housing Works Bookstore

People celebrated on the streets across the city when it was announced that the Housing Works Bookstore cafe had reopened after the pandemic. Ok, well, not literally, but when this literary touchstone was finally reopened, it was definitely a cause for celebration. The Housing Works Bookstore is another historic building transformed into a chic bookshop. It is so popular that it is often booked out on the weekends as a fashionable venue for weddings. It was even featured in Taylor Swift’s music video for her smash hit All Too Well.

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The Housing Works Bookstore has been open downtown in New York for over a decade. Unlike any other shop on this list, 100% of the profits from the book sales go to fund Housing Works’ lifesaving services. Their cafe is the perfect place to immerse yourself in their cozy atmosphere. In addition to beverages and food, you can also pick up a cocktail at the bar.

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Book Club

Located in the heart of the East Village is the aptly named Book Club, one of the best independent bookstores and bars in town. Whether it’s coffee, NY state craft beer, wine, romance novels, mystery books or autobiographies that you’re looking for, you’re bound to find that here! The owners who started the Book Club wanted to create a space in the city’s centre where you could feel nice and cozy while surrounded by the most lovingly curated collection of books.

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One of the shop’s most exciting aspects is that it is open till midnight but is laptop free after 7pm! This is meant to encourage people to chat with each other, make friends and take book recommendations in the evening when the wine is flowing. This a great reminder to turn off the computer or put down your phone and enjoy a bit of screen-free time with new friends. Plus, this place has some great music too! The vibes here are immaculate.

I hope you enjoyed this little literary jaunt around the city and found spots along the way to snuggle up inside on a cold winter’s day. Let me know your favourite bookshops in the comments where you love to sit and drink a cup of coffee in your hometown! Maybe I’ll be visiting there next!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

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Because of its age and relatively slow progress towards revitalization, the Bowery is home to the city’s most diverse collection of architectural streetscapes. You can see building styles from Georgian, Federal, Greek Revival, Italianate, Victorian, Neo Grec, Queen Anne, Beaux Arts, and Art Deco all in one place! So if you’re a history, crime or architecture buff, this Walking Tour of the Bowery is just for you! The ghosts we will discuss along the way are not just paranormal but also the memories of the rich past found along Satan’s Highway. So come with us as we discover the secrets hidden along the Bowery.

Guided Tour of the Bowery

1. About the Tour
2. Map of the Walking Tour
3. History of the Bowery
4. St. Mark's Church in-the-Bowery
5. Cooper Union
6. McSorley's Old Ale House
7. Columbia Hall
8. Merchant's House Museum
9. Germania Fire Insurance Building
10. Tenement Housing
11. The Bowery Hotel
12. Bouwerie Lane Theatre
13. il Buco Restaurant
14. #31 Bond Street
15. #21 Bleecker Street
16. Bleecker Street & Bowery
17. CBGB
18. McGurk's Salon
19. The Houston Bowery Mural
20. Sammy's Bowery Follies
21. #222 Bowery
22. The Bowery Mission
23. The Bowery House Hotel
24. Alabama Flophouse
25. #210 Bowery
26. Germania Bank Building
27. The Bowery Ballroom
28. Sohotel
29. Bowery Savings Bank
30. #139 Hester Street
31. #129 Mulberry Street
32. Citizens Savings Bank
33. Bull's Head Tavern
34. Bowery Theatre
35. #40-42 Bowery
36. #18 Bowery
37. Doyers Street
38. Five Points

About the Tour

This Walking Tour of the Bowery will take about two hours to walk at a leisurely pace. We will be covering just over 1.6 miles throughout the tour. Be sure to wear really comfortable walking shoes. Throughout the tour we will talk about the history of the neighbourhood, the ghosts which haunt the streets and the many stories that make this district a rich tapestry of cultures and curiosities. The ghoulish nature of the tour makes it a great one to take during the spooky Halloween season!

Although the Bowery has changed a lot over the past 20 years, the area is still one I would advise avoiding late at night. The best time to do this tour is in the late afternoon and early evening before everything gets too dark.

Map of the Walking Tour

History of the Bowery

One thing that makes the Bowery such a captivating place to visit is that this one long stretch of roadway seems to encapsulate everything that is so iconic about New York City. The Bowery boasts historic architecture, fierce stories of the criminal underbelly, upscale hotels, and tales of the ghosts that haunt part of town. While the Bowery was once Hell’s Highway, today is a sophisticated neighbourhood popular with hipsters. But it hasn’t yet lost all of its gritty charm and historical destinations.

Boundaries of the Bowery

The boundaries of the Bowery start at Astor Place and extend south to Chatham Square. The road stretches across the Lower East Side, through Chinatown, the East Village and Little Italy. But long before European colonizers arrived on these shores, the Bowery was a simple dirt pathway. The lane was created by the indigenous Lenape people who initially settled here. The Lenape carved out the road to better provide access for their people to the fishing posts along the East River.

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After the Dutch invaded, they stole the land from the Lenape people but kept the roadway as it proved extremely useful. The Dutch renamed the street; Bowery Lane. The word “Bowery“ comes from the Dutch word bouwerie, which meant “farm.” In the neighbourhood’s early days of Dutch colonization, they plotted farmland adjacent to Bowery Lane. This allowed farmers to transport their goods easily out of town as well as bring in much-needed supplies.

The Oldest African-American Neighbourhood in America

When the Dutch arrived, they came with kidnapped and enslaved men and women from Africa. The Dutch West India Company was, in fact, the first country to start the African slave trade. But in 1645, the same company that tore Africans from their homeland granted them parcels of land in the Bowery. They also named them “freed enslaved peoples.”

But it wasn’t out of guilt or a sense of morality that they did this. The Dutch hoped that the freed enslaved people would help tame the wilderness around Bowery Lane. Not only this, but they hoped they would build houses that would act as a barrier along the East River. The Dutch were afraid of an uprising from the Indigenous people or an invasion from the British and were using these homes as their first line of defence. But, no matter the reasoning, this move resulted in the Bowery becoming home to the first African-American neighbourhood in America.

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Bowery Slaughterhouses

As the population grew around the Bowery, the rural farmland transformed into the beginnings of a small urban village. Public slaughterhouses were the first major businesses to call the neighbourhood home. The land towards the southern tip of the Bowery held the Collect Pond. This huge water source spread across 48 acres and was the primary source of fresh water for this part of the city. The slaughterhouses took advantage of this access as a means to drain off their stinking waste. Slowly poisoning the water for the residents. It was only a matter of time before what was once a charming water feature became a foul-smelling pit. With no choice but to drain the pond, the slaughterhouses and butchers had to move further west into what is now the Meat Packing District. 

With the pond drained, and the land on which it once stood filled, the Bowery’s population was not only expanding but changing. The northern parts of the district began to change. What was once primarily a lower-class neighbourhood became land for the aristocracy. The elite of New York were after large plots of land where they could build expansive mansions and lavish apartments. The narrow Bowery lane was widened into a broad avenue to service these new upper-class establishments. Elegant buildings started to pop up on either side of the street. Many thought this was the Bowery’s boom era and the street would go onto rival Fifth Avenue. Alas, this was not to be the path forward for the Bowery.

The El Train

The fate of the Bowery changed with the construction of the El Train or the Elevated Railway. With a city like New York facing such rapid expansion, transit became one of the most important pieces of infrastructure to tackle. Immigrants lived in the city’s outer edges, like the Bowery. But, for work, they needed to travel far to the centre of Manhattan. Horse-drawn rail cars could only carry so many people. And the new invention of the omnibus was taking up precious space on what were now crowded roadways. So the idea was to take transit off the streets and raise it above. Onto elevated rails.

Railroad tracks were built above the streets, and one of the first lines to be built was the Third Avenue Elevated Rail in 1878. This rail line ran almost the entire length of the Bowery. And while access to transit sounds like a good idea for an up-and-coming neighbourhood, it became the catalyst for the Bowery’s descent into debauchery.

The dark iron rails that held the tracks essentially cut out the sun. Making the underbelly of the El tracks a good spot for shadowy deeds to take place. The middle-class businesses starting to populate the streets suddenly found themselves under a constant barrage of soot and grease from the trains above. No woman on her way to the dressmaker wanted to find herself covered in grease upon exiting the building. Not to mention the noise. All the upper-class customers fled, forcing the only decent businesses left on the Bowery to close. 

Into the Hell’s Gate

Property values were in the toilet! But with so many vacant buildings, low-class establishments took this as their opportunity to move in. Brothels, gambling halls, theatres, wild concert venues, beer gardens, pawn shops, and flophouses all started to call the Bowery home. No longer was the character of the street that of a district on the rise. Instead, gangs ruled the streets and the slums crept into the once well-to-do buildings. Prostitution, alcoholism and homelessness were rampant problems across the Bowery. And the streets were undoubtedly one of the most dangerous places to find yourself in New York City in the 19th century.

Theodore Roosevelt visited the area in 1913. After his visit, he stated; “The Bowery is one of the great highways of humanity, a highway of seething life, of varied interest, of fun, of work, of sordid and terrible tragedy; and it is haunted by demons as evil as any that stalk through the pages of the “Inferno.” This quote would lend itself to Bowery getting the nickname “Hell’s Gate.“

Transformation of Skid Row

The Bowery remained New York City’s “Skid Row” until the 1970s. But in the 70s, New York City displaced the multitudes of homeless people who had found themselves clustered in this neighbourhood. This, along with demolishing the El train elevated railway, would bring about a new era for the Bowery. The 1990s would see gentrification begin to creep in. Today, the historic buildings are surrounded by high-rise condos, luxury apartment complexes and even a Whole Foods grocery store. Proof that as quickly as a neighbourhood can change for the worse, it can change for the better.

St. Mark’s Church in-the-Bowery

The first stop on our Walking Tour of the Bowery is at the old St. Mark’s Church in-the-Bowery. It is on this spot that the development of the neighbourhood truly began. At the intersection of 2nd and 10th Street, walk north until you see the giant silhouette of a church in the distance. As you approach, keep your ears peeled for the sounds of an old church bell ringing in the distance.

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Petrus Stuyvesant

The church marks the site where Petrus (Peter) Stuyvesant first built his home when he landed on the shores of what was then a new colony in 1652. Stuyvesant was the first governor of the then-named New Amsterdam. Stuyvesant has been a great Dutch soldier. But during a battle against the Spanish, he was badly wounded and lost his leg. It was amputated and replaced with a wooden prosthetic, giving him the nickname “Peg Leg Pete.” Because he could no longer fight, he was selected by the Dutch West India Company to go to New York. There he would serve as governor over one of their new colonies.

After his accident, Stuyvesant was a melancholy man and being sent away surely didn’t help things. But he was also a religious man. Even away from home he wanted to create a place where he felt a connection to his homeland. And he did this through the construction of a church, a place that brought him much peace. Stuyvesant had purchased this specific property for his dwelling because it was located far away from the hustle and bustle of the “big city.” Back then remember, the Bowery was a small parcel of farmland. But throughout his time as governor, Stuyvesant watched the area grow. And transform. Much to his dismay, his once peaceful neighbourhood would soon be riddled with townhouses and noisy pedestrians.

Despite all this, Stuyvesant stayed put in his new home. When he died, he was buried beneath his chapel. In 1793 the original chapel was sold off but the community built an even more impressive Episcopal church in its place in 1795. The same one which stands here today.

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The Ghost of St. Mark’s Church in-the-Bowery

But soon after building the new and improved church, people started noticing strange occurrences happening inside. One day, the villagers were awoken by the tolling of the church bell. This would usually not be a strange noise, but this bell was ringing in the middle of the night. And it wouldn’t stop!

Everyone raced to the church to see what was the matter. But when they arrived, they found the door to the bell tower locked shut from the inside. When they finally broke down the door, the noise stopped. But the room was empty. And they looked up to find the bell’s rope had been cut. The only reachable part of the rope was way too far above the ground for anyone human to reach. Everyone was perplexed as to how the bell had been rung at all, let alone for hours.

The townsfolk searched the church for clues. Finally, they found the torn part of the rope lying atop Peter Stuyvesant‘s crypt. And as they were all standing around the crypt in silent horror, they heard the sound of Stuyvesant’s wooden leg echoing throughout the halls of the church. Today many people report still hearing the ghostly footsteps of Stuyvesant’s wooden leg throughout the church. Still watching over his new colony.

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The Body Snatchers

Another interesting story from the churchyard was that of the theft of Alexander Turney Stewart body! When he died in April 1876, Alexander Turney Stewart was America’s third-richest man. Stewart made his fortune as a retailer. He was a hugely popular figure in the city, and his funeral was packed with the cream of the crop. Writers, politicians, lawyers and more all came out to St. Mark’s Church on the Bowery to pay their respects.

In October, six months after Stewart’s burial, the church sexton noticed that stone doors to the Stewart family vault had been disturbed. When he looked inside, he noticed several vault slabs moved, but the tombs were still in place. The sexton was immediately suspicious, with fears of so-called “resurrection men” on the rise who were known to steal corpses. The sexton made sure to hire a night watchmen just in case the people who broke in tried to do it again.

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Resurrection Men

In the 1780s, grave robbing was on the rise. Originally grave robbing was mainly done for doctors to get their hands on “fresh” dead bodies. They used these to practice their trade and other medical experiments. But in the 1870s, the sensation of grave robbing was often done in search of ransom. Even Abraham Lincoln’s body was the victim of an attempted robbery! Although thankfully, that was thwarted. But it was not uncommon for the bodies of wealthy men to fetch a handsome price. Once the ransom was paid, the bodies would be returned.

The Theft of A. T. Stewart’s Body

Unfortunately, the night watchmen the sexton had hired failed at his one duty. And on the morning of November 7th, the sexton discovered the body of A. T. Stewart had been removed from his vault. Police arrived on the scene and were horrified by the brown blotches they found around the area. These were immediately identified as “pieces” of Stewart himself. Stewart had been dead for more than eight months and would have been in a terrible state of decomposition. So when the criminals left with the body, they left bits of the body trailing behind… But the trail went cold, and the police had no leads.

Media Sensation

The newspapers ate up this media sensation. A reward of $25,000 was offered to the public for any information leading to the thief’s capture. Hundreds of letters poured in with theories, but none proved to provide any actual leads. In 1879 the attorneys for Stewart received a letter from Canada claiming to be the robbers. When the lawyers asked for proof, they provided several silver pieces of Stewart’s missing nameplate, also taken during the robbery. The lawyers tried negotiating with the thieves, but something must have scared them off. Perhaps it was all the talk of the robbery is all the papers. Either way, they never wrote to the family again.

Walling’s Confession

A very contested private memoir by the residing police chief Walling claimed that he was in communication with the real thieves. And he claimed to have negotiated with the criminals. With the help of Stewart’s wife, they met up at midnight on an abandoned pathway outside the Hudson Valley. The masked men arrived on horseback with a velvet coffin cloth taken from the tomb. And a bag of bones they claimed were Stewart’s.

The masked men handed them over in exchange for the money and rode off into the night. Walling claims the bones were taken back by Stewart’s wife. In 1885, they were laid in the Cathedral of the Incarnation, where Stewart’s wife was also buried. But many have refuted this claim as gossip and a way for Walling to make a few bucks on his memoir.

No one will ever know the truth, but many people have claimed that the cemetery is haunted by the ghost of Stewart himself. Stewart is known to roam angrily around the church, furious about being torn from his grave. Many say if you smell something awful, like the piece of his body that was trailed behind, that is a sign Stewart is just around the corner. Whatever the case, stories like this prove there is something truly cursed about the Bowery.

Cooper Union

Head west along the aptly named Stuyvesant Street towards Astor Place. On Astor Place and Cooper Square you’ll find a gorgeous Italiane brownstone that stands out amongst the glass towers surrounding it. This is the old Cooper Union Foundation Building. The Cooper Union Foundation Building was named after American Industrialist Peter Cooper. Cooper invented rolled-iron beams which provided a dramatically more powerful support system in engineering buildings. And these new beams were first implemented inside the Cooper Union Foundation Building.

The Cooper Union Foundation Building was also revolutionary as it featured the world’s first elevator shaft. The shaft itself was built into the design of the building despite the actual elevator not even yet being invented! It was Cooper’s dream for the building to house an educational institute, open and accessible to all. Regardless of their financial situation or social status. Cooper was a workingman’s son who had less than a year of formal schooling and yet he wnt on to become a famous industrialist and inventor. And he wanted these same opportunities to be open to young people across the country. To discover and develope their talents. And the Bowery was filled with such people!

When the institute was opened, it held night classes for adult education in applied sciences and architectural drawing. During the day, the school was open for women. They could attend classes on such subjects as photography, telegraphy, typewriting and shorthand.

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Abraham Lincoln at the Cooper Union

On February 27th, 1860, Abraham Lincoln came to the Cooper Union’s Great Hall to deliver a speech that would cement itself in the history books. And propel him toward the presidency. A New York writer said of the address, “No man ever before made such an impression on his first appeal to a New York audience.” Abolitionists had been centralized in this part of the Bowery for years. This was the perfect spot for Lincoln to find like-minded people to speak to. Since then, the Great Hall has served as a platform for historic addresses by American Presidents Grant, Cleveland, Taft, Theodore Roosevelt, Woodrow Wilson, and Bill Clinton. Today it remains an architectural gem and historic artifact.

McSorley’s Old Ale House

Walk south along 3rd Avenue until you reach East 7th Street. Walk west along east 7th Street until you come to #15, where you’ll find the historic McSorley’s Old Ale House. McSorley’s is Manhattan’s oldest continuously run tavern! You definitely need to make a point to stop here. McSorley’s Old Ale House was opened in 1854 by Irish immigrant John McSorley. And one of the most unique aspects of the tavern is that they still to this day only sell two traditional drinks; a light ale and a dark ale. But at only $5.50-per-drink you won’t mind the lack of choice.

The bar is also of important historic significance as it was here, that President Abraham Lincoln came for drink after speaking at the Cooper Union. The chair hanging above the bar was the one that Abraham Lincoln himself sat in when he came in for a drink. 

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Ghosts of McSorely’s

Walking inside is like stepping back in time. The dark wooden interior is plastered with paintings and photographs from the past. When John McSorely opened the pub, he also kept his horses in the back. Today remnants of those stables are also hung all over the walls. See if you can count all the horseshoes. As the bar was famed for Lincoln’s attendance, they also have several pieces of ephemera from his presidency, including a framed newspaper announcing his death and the wanted poster for John Wilkes Booth. Another famous person who visited the bar was Harry Houdini. And the handcuffs he once used in his show are hung up here on the wall!

But lurking in the shadows, amongst the displays, are the ghosts of the tavern’s past. One of their frequent ghosts seems to have an affinity with the bar cats that lounge around. Bar staff have frequently seen their cats arching their backs and nuzzling into invisible hands. They are also reports of disembodied noises late at night. Perhaps some of their patrons have simply never left.

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Columbia Hall

Walking back to 3rd Avenue/Cooper Square, make your way to #32 Cooper Square, where you’d once have found the old Columbia Hall. In the 1890s, the Bowery was known as the center of queer nightlife in New York City. People of different races, social statuses, and backgrounds all congregated in the Bowery, resulting in a more tolerant attitude towards a variety of then-named “social outcasts.”

Columbia Hall was opened in 1890 by James or Biff Ellison. Ellison was a well-known gangster within the Five Points (more on that later) and opened this establishment as a brothel for gay men. There was a large bar and beer garden on the first floor, and the upper levels served as bedrooms and apartments.

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A Vibrant Gay Community in the Bowery

Brothels were rampant in the Bowery. And this one was no different than all the other salons, save for the fact the prostitutes were men. But not all men who came to this part of the Bowery were there to purchase sex; some simply felt this part of town was a safe space for them. Columbia Hall acted as a community centre for gay men in the 1890s. Many men came here to drink and gamble and never bothered to solicit. They simply enjoyed the familiar company.

The first club for transgender people opened here on the floor above the bar. Inside, transwomen could come and dress as themselves without fear of what anyone else would think. They were among friends. Columbia Hall was also home to some of the first drag acts in the city. “The Bowery Queen,” was one such drag performer who made a name for herself and opened the door for many others to follow.

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Paresis Hall

Despite many in the Bowery looking the other way, there were many a religious protest against the tavern’s operation. Homophobic groups called the building “Paresis Hall.” Paresis was a condition which caused brain inflammation and sometimes insanity, usually brought on by syphilis. Syphilis was a disease many incorrectly thought only gay men carried. And nicknaming the building after the disease was another way the religious zealots could attack the character of those who would visit. “Paresis Hall” couldn’t escape public condemnation forever. And after only nine years of operation, it closed down in 1899. Today, the building remains a memory to one of the first gay communities in New York City.

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Merchant’s House Museum

Walk north one block and turn west down East 4th street. At #29 East 4th Street stands an old brick mansion which was once home to wealthy merchant Seabury Tredwell. Tredwell built his home here in 1832. The regal manor starkly contrasts with the Bowery’s gritty nature. But a great example of the kinds of houses that were being built in the area before the El Train drove the neighbourhood into a downward spiral. Despite its age, if you walked inside, you’d find almost the entire house unchanged. This is because the house is now a city-owned museum, the Merchant’s House Museum.

The Merchant’s House Museum‘s aim is to present to the public the personal lives of an upper-class family living in New York in the 19th century. The house preserves incredible examples of surviving architecture from the period as well as hundreds of personal objects, furniture and photographs from the Tredwell family. If you have an opportunity to visit the museum, it is a real contrast to the lives of the

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Gertrude Tredwell

Supposedly, one descendant, in particular, doesn’t like when you touch her things. This would be the Tredwell’s youngest daughter, Gertrude. Gertrude was a spinster who lived out her entire Iife inside the house. She was born in 1840 and died in 1933. Gertrude had seven siblings, two brothers and five sisters. While the rest of her family grew up and had families of their own, Gertrude remained alone. Gertrude had one real chance at love, but sadly, the affair was broken up by her Episcopalian father. He refused to let Gertrude marry a poor Irishman. Gertrude’s sad fate supposedly inspired Henry James‘ novel Washington Square Park. The book is about a woman whose father attempts to thwart her romance with another man.

In her lonely spinsterhood, she developed an angry and eccentric personality. She seemed to care only for the house, with nothing else left in her own life to care for. She was constantly obsessing with ensuring the house maintained its elegance, despite falling into financial ruin.

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The Ghost of Tredwell Manor

After Gertrude’s death, the house was passed down to her cousin. The house was set to be foreclosed, and all the contents sold off to pay their debts. But Gertrude’s intrepid cousin had another idea. She was able to sell the house and all its contents to the city. The city was amazed by the preservation of the house and all its memorabilia inside. All they had to do was slap a few plaques on the walls and charge admission, and the museum was up and running.

Since becoming a museum, the staff have seen the ghostly figure of Gertrude herself roaming the halls. She loves nothing more than making loud, irritating noises whenever “her” objects are moved. See if you can spot her in the window, peering down on the street. She is often seen looking out, watching over her beloved home.

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Germania Fire Insurance Building

Head back to Cooper street, where Cooper streets officially become the Bowery at the intersection of East 4th Street. At #357 Bowery, we can find the exterior facade of the old Germania Fire Insurance Building. One of the most iconic aspects of this building is the haphazard-looking stacks of iron staircases piled up on the facade of the brick building. The Germania Fire Insurance Building was built in 1870 by prominent German-American architect Carl Pfeiffer. In the 1870s, fires were one of the most common causes of destruction in New York City. The dense urban environment meant that if one house caught fire, it would quickly spread throughout the block. So ensuring your properties against fire was BIG business.

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Little Germany

The Germania Fire Insurance Company represented the growing number of German immigrants who came to New York in the 19th century. Back then, Division Street, east of the Bowery, was called “Little Germany” or Kleindeutschland. By 1840, over 20,000 German immigrants were living in this part of town.

When the Germania Fire Insurance company was building their new corporate office, they wanted to make it in the centre of Little Germany. And while all the official architectural plans stated the building was for business use only, they had always secretly planned to use the building for some tenement housing.

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Germania Fire Insurance Building Architecture

One of the aspects of the building that makes it so ingenious is the mansard roof and dormer windows. In the 19th century, New York companies were taxed for every additional floor added to a building. But a clever loophole was invented by architects in the creation of the mansard roof. The mansard roof is characterized by two slopes on every side of the roof. The lower slope being considerably steeper than the upper. When you add dormer windows, the mansard roof provides a spacious and economical attic storey. Essentially a livable space, but listed as an attic, that wouldn’t fall under taxable laws.

Tenement Housing

In 1870, the city census found seven families living inside the building. Each of these families would typically be made up of at least ten people. Tenement flats were also called “railroad flats” because the long, narrow apartments were linked together like the cars of a train. This resulted in windowless apartments. Without windows, the apartments were also without access to fresh air. This, combined with the cramped spaces, led them to become wrought with diseases.

Eventually, things got so bad that the Tenement House Act of 1901 was passed. It mandated strict enforcement inside buildings like these to ensure tenants had air and light and access to running water.

PS General Slocum

As we walk down the block toward our next stop, let’s take a moment to consider why, despite the growing German immigrant population in the 19th century, this part of town now lacks almost any memory of their presence. What caused this exodus of German immigrants from the Bowery? The answer might surprise you. And it surrounds the story of the city’s worst maritime disaster: the PS General Slocum Fire.

The PS General Slocum was a sidewheel passenger steamboat built in 1891. Over the years, it took passengers to and from Manhattan, across the East River, towards Brooklyn and Long Island. But the owners were reckless and didn’t keep up with its maintenance or address rising safety concerns. On June 15, 1904, the boat was carrying 1,342 members of St. Mark’s Evangelical Lutheran Church. The members took a yearly excursion to a park on Long Island, where they hosted a celebratory church picnic. Almost all of the church members were German American immigrants from Little Germany. And most were women and children. The men unable to attend as they had to stay behind to work.

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The Fire Breaks Out

Shortly after departure, a fire started in the Lamp Room. Perhaps caused by a dropped match. The moment the fire broke out, the boat was cruising through the hauntingly named “Hell’s Gate” along the East River. Coincidence or curse? You decide.

The lamp room was filled with straw, oily rags, and lamp oil. A perfect environment for a fire to be fueled and grow out of control in mere minutes. A 12-year-old boy spotted the fire, and tried to warn the captain. But the captain tossed him aside, not believing the boy and not wanting to cause a delay. It took staff just over ten minutes to realize the full extent of the fire. And by then, it was too late.

Beaching on North Brother Island

The boat was sinking quickly and the captain tried steering it towards North Brother Island. In the hopes people could jump off and swim to shore. But safety standards hadn’t been met for some time on the old paddlewheel. Women who grabbed nearby life preservers found that they fell apart in their hands. Having rotted away with neglect. Mothers took any lifejackets still intact and strapped them to their children. But when they tossed their children into the water to escape the inferno, they watched in horror as they sunk like rocks. The lifejackets proving completely useless.

Most of these immigrants didn’t know how to swim. This, combined with their heavy wool clothing that absorbed water like mad, made it almost impossible for anyone to escape. Even if they were only a few meters from shore. Twenty minutes after the fire had first broken out, the flames had engulfed the vessel. As the fire burned, it weakened the overloaded starboard section of the hurricane deck. The deck collapsed, killing the 100-500 people who were still stuck on the deck.

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Victims of the PC Slocum Fire

1,021 people either burned to death or drowned in the disaster. When survivors returned to their homes in Little Germany, the street was deadly silent. Entire families had died, leaving the streets a ghost town. Some men who had lost their entire families wandered aimlessly around the empty streets of Kleindeutschland. The survivors couldn’t handle the trauma left by this silence, and most moved uptown to escape the memories left there.

The Bowery Hotel

Our next stop is past East 3rd Street at the fanciful Bowery Hotel. The Bowery Hotel is today one of the most luxurious hotels in the city. It’s often the top choice for visiting celebrities of all sorts. But back in 1875, the building was originaly designed for the Dry Dock Savings Bank. Back then, the Bowery was still in its period of middle-class growth. And with that speculation that the area would rival 5th Avenue, wealthy enterprises were scooping up real estate all over the Bowery.

The building’s design plans were stunningly impressive. And the bank looked more like a regal castle looming over the rest of the street. The Dry Dock Savings Bank was open here until 1992, when the bank went bust. The building was sold off in 2000, and the new owners went about transforming it into the modern-day Bowery Hotel.

Ghosts of the Bowery Hotel

Back when the building was a bank, no one stayed overnight. But once it was converted into a hotel, nightly sightings of ghosts were commonplace here. Accounts of strange occurrences from almost day one of its inceptions as a hotel was reported. The most common sighting is located inside the elevator. Around 1 am, the elevator is known to erratically move up and down, despite no buttons being pressed.

Guests have also seen a ghostly woman sitting inside their hotel room when they enter late at night. Only to disappear moments later. Then there are the bar ghosts, who angrily knock drinks out of people’s hands. But not all are as vengeful, some spirits love nothing more than chatting up the customers. Perhaps just looking for someone to talk to.

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New York Marble Cemetery

But why would this hotel be home to so many spirits? The reason lies behind where the building was constructed. Long before the bank was built, this land was used to house the New York Marble Cemetery. The cemetery was built in 1830 as the first non-sectarian cemetery in New York. The cemetery was unlike many others being built at the time, as there were no gravestones, only marble vaults. Bodies were being buried deep underground. The reason for this was the horrible outbreak of yellow fever. It was thought that by burying bodies deep underground and sealing the tombs, would help prevent the spread of the disease. Over 2000 bodies were buried in the Marble Cemetery. While the eastern parts of the New York Marble Cemetery can still be visited today, the graves on the western end were lost below the newly constructed Dry Dock Savings Bank.

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Bouwerie Lane Theatre

A few doors down, at #330 Bowery, standing tall and elegant on the corner, we find the old Bouwerie Lane Theatre. The building was initially constructed in 1879 as the Atlantic Savings Bank. It was designed in a French Second Empire style by Henry Engelbert. And despite looking like it has been carved out of stone, the building is a rare example of cast iron employed to appear as raw material.

When the Atlantic Savings Bank collapsed, the burgeoning German community purchased the building and opened the German Exchange Bank. With the downfall of the Bowery, the German bank closed its doors as well. It wasn’t until the 1960s that the building was converted into an off-Broadway theatre named the Bouwerie Lane Theatre. The theatre remained open for 30 years but closed in 2006. Today it is a memory of the past. The upper floors have been turned into a private mansion-apartment, and the ground levels are used for retail.

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il Buco Restaurant

Let’s make a quick detour east along Bond Street to #47 Bond which still houses il Buco Restaurant to this day. This part of New York in the 1840s was better known as the Red Light District. And like any good Red Light District, it was frequented by many lonely writers. And among them was none other than famed horror writer Edgar Allan Poe. Poe had first discovered the restaurant because his good friend Marie lived in the apartments above #47 Bond Street. Poe would frequently come by to visit Marie when his wife was sick. Searching for solace and comfort in the arms of another woman. But he also found comfort in the tavern below.

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Down in the basement cellar was hidden away popular speakeasy. This dark and eerie 200-year-old cellar went on to inspire the setting for Poe’s novel, The Cask of Amontillado. His novel wasn’t set in New York but rather in an unnamed city in Italy. The story of the Cask of Amontillado is all about a man taking revenge. The “hero” of the story believes one of his best friends had wronged him. So, to take his revenge, he entombs the ex-friend in a basement cellar, just like the one inside il Buco.

In real life, Poe was constantly fighting with his literary rivals. And perhaps The Cask of Amontillado was a way for Poe to release some pent-up anger. Owners of the current restaurant claim that the ghost of Edgar Allan Poe still comes back to the cellar from time to time. Staff often find half-empty yet sealed bottles of wine in the basement cellar. As if a ghostly apparition came back to have another glass for the road.

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#31 Bond Street

A few doors down, at #31 Bond Street, is an old brick apartment complex. The building is stunning, with gorgeous multicoloured brickwork, various arched and square windows and, the best part, a series of detailed stone friezes decorating the facade. In the 1850s, the building was owned by a wealthy dentist named Harvey Burdell. Burnell was murdered right here, in this very building. But long after his death, his name would still be plastered on the cover of newspapers due to the torrid nature of the crime.

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Harvey Burdell & Emma Cunningham

Burnell owned the entire building. He used the lower levels as his office space and primary residence, and the rest he rented out. Unfortunately for him, in the summer of 1855, a woman named Emma Cunningham moved into #31 Bond Street as one of his tenants. Burnell fell quickly for the widowed Cunningham. All those who witnessed the goings on inside the townhouse said that Cunningham acted like she was already Burnell’s wife. Despite the two only dating for a short period of time. She hired his maids, ordered around the workers, made him meals and brought them down to his suite. She would even dine with him on certain occasions.

The Murder of Dr. Burnell

But this was not a happy relationship as the neighbours frequently reported hearing shouting matches between the go. The arguments seemed to constantly surround the marriage proposal that Cunningham was expecting from Burnell. One which he never “officially” would give. The rumours surrounding their relationship were lush. Some claimed that she had fallen pregnant with his baby, but he forced her to have an abortion. Others argued that Burnell himself performed the abortion right here in his office.

Whatever the clashes between the two, it all came to a head on January 31st, 1857. Burnell’s body was discovered in his home office. He had been strangled and brutally stabbed 15 times. Almost as soon as his body arrived at the coroner’s office, Emma Cunningham arrived, claiming that she was his wife. And the sole inheritor of his $100,000 fortune and the new owner of #31 Bond Street.

The Trial of Emma Cunningham

Emma was not at the crime scene, and police had yet to inform her of her death. But she seemed to already know what happened. Raising immediate suspicions. Police arrested her, but it was her trial that would spin the media into a frenzy. So many allegations about her were almost too juicy not to have been an invention of the newspapers themselves. Neighbours claimed she was sleeping with her fellow border John J. Eckel. They even reported that Cunningham was forcing her daughter into sleeping with other men in the building.

During the trial, Cunningham claimed to be pregnant with Burnell’s baby, but many suspected she was stuffing her dresses. After nine months, she showed up at trial with a baby in tow. But it was later revealed to have been another woman’s baby, and Cunningham was never pregnant. Instead, she had purchased the child for $1,000. Bought from a poor woman she found living in squalor in the Bowery.

Emma Goes Free

Despite revealing these fictions, Burnell’s attorney Mr. Clinton, couldn’t convince a jury of Cunningham’s guilt. There was no physical evidence linking her to the crime. Cunningham was acquitted after only two hours of jury deliberation. But she was guilty to the public, who had been following along with all the details of the crime and case in the newspaper. And the public had just seen this woman get away with murder.

Cunningham was left penniless after Burnell’s death. But instead of receiving his fortunes, she was forced by public pressure to flee the city. The case of Harvey Burdell’s murder remains officially “unsolved,” and it is perhaps for this reason that the ghost of Burdell is thought to still haunt this building today.

#21 Bleecker Street

Walk one block south along Lafayette Street, then west on Bleeker to make your way back to Bowery Street. If you’re hungry, be sure to stop at Levain Bakery along Lafayette Street, as they sell some of the best baked goods in town! This little stretch of the Bowery is home to some beautiful examples of Federal-style row houses. They are virtually untouched by the ages and are a gorgeous example of what these side streets would have looked like in the heyday of the Bowery. 

Bleecker Street & Bowery

Make a stop at the corner of Bleecker Street and Bowery. It was here, in 1905, on these darkened streets, that Thomas “Eat ‘Em Up Jack” McManus, the toughest man in New York, was murdered. McManus had a burgeoning career as a boxer. This prizefighting drew the eye of Paul Kelly, leader of the notorious Five Point Gang. Kelly employed McManus as a bouncer for his various criminal establishments. This included our next stop, McGurk’s Suicide Hall.

McManus earned the name “Eat ‘Em Up Jack” by using those fisticuffs to almost literally “eat through” any rowdy customers that came through the doors. His face was reportedly a thing to see as it was covered in welts and scars, and almost all his front teeth were missing. But every new wound only seemed to make him grow stronger.

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Eat ‘Em Up Jack

One night, while working inside Kelly’s Little Naples Café, a rival gang member named Chic Tricker entered the club. Chic Tricker was a member of the Monk Eastman gang. After one too many drinks, he started violently insulting one of the showgirls. McManus threw him out of the bar and even had to draw his pistol after a fight ensued. McManus fired a few shots, but Tricker got away with only a bruised ego. But Tricker wasn’t one to hold grudges lightly. And he swore to get his revenge.

A few days later, Trick’s fellow gang member Sardinia Frank attacked McManus right here on the corner of Bleeker and Bowery. Frank hid a gas pipe wrapped in newspaper and dealt a lethal blow to the top of McManus’ head. The entire ordeal started a colossal battle between the two gangs, each one trying to get revenge other the other. Resulting in blood being spread all across the Bowery. So if you see a big burly spectre of a man lurking in the shadows, you might have spotted the ghost of Eat ‘Em Up Jack himself.

CBGB

At #315 Bowery you’ll find a small memory dedicated to the famous CBGB club which once stood here. CBGB was a legendary punk rock club opened in 1973 by Hilly Kristal. It made the history book as the birthplace of punk rock. Bands like the Ramones, Patti Smith, Talking Heads, Blondie, Joan Jett, Lou Reed, AC/DC, Green Day, Guns’ n Roses and Pearl Jam all graced the stage. You weren’t truly punk rock until you’d played at CBGB.

Sadly, the club closed in 2006 after Hilly lost his battle with cancer. Patti Smith closed the club with its penultimate concert on October 15, 2006. Funnily enough, for a punk rock club that was repulsed by the mainstream, its doors now house (of all things) a John Varvatos clothing store. But if you walk right up to the front windows and look down at the cement below, you can still make out the words “CGBG ’73” etched into the ground. A lasting memory of the music made within these walls.

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McGurk’s Salon

In the 1970s, a highly controversial effort was made to “disperse” the homeless population in the Bowery. Afterwards, the neighbourhood found itself slowly going through a process of revitalization and gentrification. And while many of the historic buildings along the Bowery were preserved, others met the eventual fate of demolition. And it is at one of these new developments, we find ourselves today searching for a ghost from the Bowery’s past.

#295 Bowery

The rather dull glass condominium at #295 Bowery street stands atop the remains of the once-infamous McGurk’s Salon. Back in the 1900s, McGurk’s Salon was a tavern more aptly known by the public as McGurk’s “Suicide Hall.” The building was originaly built in 1863 and originally served as housing for soldiers returning from the Civil War. Most of these men suffered greatly in the war and returned horribly changed men. The salon on the first floor served the seedy clientele the neighbourhood was starting to fill with. But as seedy as the clients were, the staff were no better. Bartenders frequently filled drinks with chloral hydrate. This would cause patrons to pass out, so the staff could easily steal whatever money was left in their wallets. Further taking advance of these poor men.

Suicide Hall

With so many veterans in this part of town, there was also a high demand for prostitution. The owner of McGruk’s saw this as an opportunity for money-making and opened a large brothel above the salon. Life was rough for the women who worked at McGurk’s Salon. In 1899 alone, there were six suicides in the building and seven failed attempts. Most of these were by women jumping from the upper floors of the building. Others took carbolic acid, a popular elixir of death during the Victorian era. All these deaths lead to the public nicknaming the salon the “Suicide Hall.”

McGurk’s Saloon Ghosts

While the salon itself may have disappeared, replaced by newer, flashier modern buildings, the ghosts of the salon remain. Look up as you pass by, as you might see the jumping ghosts that haunt the building. There is also the ghost of Annie Moore, a local prostitute that worked inside Suicide Hall. Annie was brutally murdered in a way newspapers referred to as a “Ripper Style” murder. Her throat was slashed, and her body was mutilated.

Police did little to find her killer. But there was one man that locals thought had to be her killer. He was known as “Old Scratch” and was a frequent customer at McGurk’s. He would sit at the bar and chat with anyone who would give him the time of day about the details of Annie’s murder. Details so specific, not mentioned in the paper, that everyone had to assume he was her killer. But no one ever followed up on the rumours, and her death remained “unsolved.” To this day, her ghost has been known to roam the streets outside McGurk’s. Perhaps waiting for Old Scratch to return and seek her revenge.

The Houston Bowery Mural

Just around the corner, down Houston Street, is an artistic landmark of the neighbourhood; the Houston Bowery Mural. In 2006, real estate developer Tony Goldman invited contemporary artists from around the world to put their artwork on display outside his building. Over the years, the street art on the wall changes with the seasons. With something new gracing the wall every few months. Adding a vibrant new work of art for locals and tourists alike to admire as they pass by.

Sammy’s Bowery Follies

Passed Houston Street, along the Bowery, beside the awning of what is now a swanky plant-based restaurant is where, in the 1930s, you’d have found a dingy dive bar named Sammy’s Bowery Follies. The legendary club was named after the owner Sammy Fuchs. Fuchs opened the bar on the Bowery to serve the thirsty vagrants that frequented the many missions and flophouses along this stretch of slums. Generally, his clientele was down on their luck, homeless, broke and often running from the law. Characters aplenty!

But in the 1940s, Sammy’s became somewhat of a tourist destination. A shock to hear, I know. What on earth would a tourist want to come here for? To the epicentre of the so-called “Bowery Bums”? Well, it was for those very characters that frequented the tavern. The upper classes of New York City were tired of their dreary, squeaky-clean, and personality-less neighbourhood cocktail bars. So they would come down to the Bowery to gawk at the lower classes. Like they were watching a play, live theatre on the streets.

The Gay 90s Cabaret

While the idea of the rich getting pleasure and entertainment from others’ misfortune is beyond offensive, Fuchs saw it as an opportunity. He transformed his club into somewhat of a cabaret. Sammy built a literal stage inside and hired vaudeville preforms to further exaggerate the rampant rumours about the dangerous ol’ Bowery. He themed the restaurants after the “Gay 90s” (that’s 1890s for you young people).

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Busloads of tourists would arrive from New York, Britain and beyond to watch the singers belt out show tunes and act out comedic skits. You could have a drink with a “sailor” in a damp leather saloon booth and hear all about his torrid stories. Most of which were clearly fabricated for the entertainment of the visitors. When Sammy died in 1969, the bar closed its doors, and it remains empty to this day. A black iron gate is the only thing making this historic destination along the Bowery.

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#222 Bowery

At #222 Bowery is the last remaining YMCA branch that dates back to the 1880s. The Young Men’s Institute (as it was called back then) was a community space where young men of the Bowery could come to seek physical, intellectual, and spiritual health. The building was designed by Bradford L. Gilbert in high Queen Ann style. The iconic recessed metal-enframed windows, painted a stunning dark green, have beautiful wreath boughs hanging from below as decorations. The windows are separated by giant pilasters with ornate cornices on top. At the top of the singular dormer window, you can see the old terra-cotta carving with the date “1884” engraved on the building.

A fantastical building that was meant to draw in curious young men from the Bowery. Inside, they would find a gymnasium, bowling alley, library, entertainment hall, and even rooftop garden! The idea being if these men were inside having fun, they were off the streets, not causing trouble.

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William S. Burroughs Bunker

In 1932 the YMCA moved out of the neighbourhood, and the building became a residential space for artists. The converted open-plan apartments attracted artists from all over the city. Mark Rothko, Andy Warhol, Allan Ginsberg and Roy Lichtenstein were all frequent guests and visitors to the old YMCA. But it was in 1974 that famed writer William S. Burroughs moved in. He lived here for almost ten years and called the space his “bunker.” No doubt his time spent in the Bowery during those vice-ridden days influenced his works and his formation of the Beat Generation.

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The Bowery Mission

Across the street from the old YMCA is another gorgeous architectural wonder, the Bowery Mission. You can spot the building from a mile away by its iconic red entry doors. As the Bowery was becoming more and more of a health hazard for the city, it was essential to set up assistance for those living in these terrible conditions. Gangs, so-called “degraded women,” and drunkards roamed the street with abundance. With nowhere to go, they often got into fights, and violence ran rampant across the bloody mile. Back then, the Bowery was commonly referred to as “Skid Row” or “Street of No Return.”

Formation of the Mission

In 1876, the Bowery Mission was built at #227 Bowery Street by architect William Jose. The building was designed in an English-inspired Tudor-Revival style. Built to resemble a traditional British Inn. Perhaps harkening back to memories of the heyday of the British Empire for many immigrants. The gorgeous curved keystones above the green-painted windows are my favourite part of the building’s facade. Inside, there is even a medieval English-inspired chapel with a beautiful two-storey organ. This church was of particular importance. You might have noticed that aside from the church at the start of this tour, not a single religious institute can be found along the Bowery. This was because most people thought the community was lost and beyond redemption. But the people at the Bowery Mission thought otherwise.

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But the most impressive part of the building, which still stands today, iare the stained glass windows above the first-floor entrance. The windows depict the parabole of the prodigal son. The inscription below reads: “When he came to himself, he said I will arrive and go to my father. He saw him and had compassion. My son was dead and is alive again.” The windows were meant to be so beautiful that they would attract the eyes of those outsiders and make them curious enough to want to come inside to see what the Mission was all about. To encourage these unfortunates to get off the street and seek help.

The Mission’s Mission

The Mission has provided food, shelter, clothing, job opportunities, medical assistance and rehabilitation for millions of men for over 140 years. It had to expand into the next-door Federal-style townhouse in 1830 as the need was assistance was so great. The Mission’s breadline was one of the most famous images of the Bowery after the great depression. 2,000 breakfasts were served every morning. A Bowery Mission breakfast consisted of a large bread roll and a cup of coffee. Despite the fortunes of the Bowery changing drastically over the last 100 years, the Mission continues to service the unhoused people in the Lower East Side to this day.

The Bowery House Hotel

At #220 Bowery are the now-shuttered windows of the Bowery House Hotel. But long before it was the Bowery House Hotel, it was better known as the Prince Hotel, built in 1927. The Prince Hotel was originally created as temporary lodging for embattled soldiers returning from World War II. The rooms here were tiny, bunks stacked together to fit as many as 12 men into one room.

This was originaly thought not to be an issue, as it was, after all, only meant to be a temporary stopping point for these men before they got their lives together and moved out. But for many men who returned from war, shattered and shaken, they would never leave. They were seduced by the Bowery and its den of sin. They could drown their sorrows in the taverns and get their needs met by the working girls in the brothels. Skid Row was the last stop on the road for many of these poor soldiers, and today, there are reports that their heartbroken ghosts remain. Haunted by the memories, still trying to rid themselves of their past along the streets of the Bowery.

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Alabama Flophouse

One of the iconic establishments across the Bowery in the late 19th century were the so-called “flophouses.” A flophouse was a place that offered very low-cost lodging and provided simply a space to sleep and minimal amenities. By 1890, there were approximately 9,000 homeless men, and some women, living in the Bowery. Most were alcoholics and gambling addicts who could easily find their vices met on the Bowery. With the expansion of the El Train, the light was further blocked out above the Bowery. Therefore, any business trying to work in the literal darkness could get away with murder. Or, at the very least, with other sinful immoralities.

One of the longest-run flophouses in the Bowery was the Alabama House. The flophouse was opened in 1889 and was amazingly designed by architect James E. Ware. Even today, you can appreciate the unbelievable architecture incorporated into the multi-purpose five-story building. Romanesque and Queen Anne elements like terra cotta friezes, ornamental cornices, rounded bullnose brick corners and unique pilaster capitals all decorate the exterior of the building. The facade’s beauty a harsh contrast to the awful living conditions inside.

Flophouses

“Flophouses” were named as such because accommodation was little more than a person-sized piece of wood on the ground where someone could literally “flop” down for the night. Usually, these “beds” cost about five cents but were little more than a wooden stand above the ground. You were lucky to get a dirty piece of cloth to use as your blanket. The five-cent cost of your stay is also why this kind of establishment was called “a dime house.”

Crime in the Flophouse

But the clientele at these places left much to be desired. Over the years, the Alabama Flophouse would see police raids repeatedly, with many of their patrons being tramped off to jail. A meagre house painter was murdered by fellow lodgers Emma and William Wilson. The pair tricked him into following Emma down a dark alley thinking she was a woman of the night. Instead, they stabbed and robbed him for the little he had, which was probably little more than the five cents he carried to pay for his bed. Lodgers Carl Williams, Herman Kas and David Weinberg were all arrested for burglary. And during prohibition, Fred Anderson was caught bootlegging gallons of coloured alcohol he made inside the Alabama Flophouse bathroom. No doubt, if this building could talk, the stories it would tell.

By 1967, the owners of Alabama converted the old flophouse into rental spaces for artists. Today the apartments are still for rent, and while they have been upgraded with modern-day conveniences, they still feature some of the iconic original architecture inside. One can only imagine how expensive these apartments now cost to rent. A shocking transformation from their previous life as dime house ruins.

#210 Bowery

On our way to the next location, make a quick stop outside #210 Bowery Street. Amazingly, the building has been transformed into a sleek, black-painted high-end condominium. But in the 19th century, this house served as one of the many Dime Museums in New York.

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Dime Museums were designed as centers for entertainment for the working class. Unlike the upper classes museums filled with fine art, these “museums” exhibited sensational freak shows. But dime museums were often just a front, and deep within the bowels of the building, you’d find hidden brothels and gambling dens. Here at #210 Bowery, police performed a historic raid in 1883. Inside, they found a gambling den with girls as young as 12 working in the back. An example of the rabid evil that occurred here every day, hidden away behind beautiful facades.

Germania Bank Building

At #190 Bowery stands the unique chamfered corner of the Germania Bank Building. An icon of the neighbourhood. The old bank was built here in 1898, the third location for the Germania Bank, established in 1869 by a group of local German businessmen. As a growing institution, they employed famed German-born architect Marc Eidlitz to build this monument to Beaux-Arts architecture. The granite and brick facade feature rough stonework, an arched entry flanked by Tuscan columns and elaborate copper decorative eaves. While the building remains pretty much as it stood a hundred years ago, sadly, it has remained derelict, covered in graffiti. Awaiting its next life, most likely a condominium space.

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The Bowery Ballroom

Just off of the Bowery, east along Delancey Street, you’ll find one of the city’s most historic music venues: the Bowery Ballroom. Despite not being the most modern venue in the city, it certainly had a cult status and playing here adds a certain cache to your repertoire!

Long before the Bowery Ballroom was a glint in the eye of the musicians, the original building was created in 1929 to house a high-end shoe store and haberdashery. But when the great depression hit and Wall Street crashed, the store quickly went out of business and shuttered its doors. With no one clamouring to renovate the space, now located in the slums of the Bowery, the building was left vacant until 1998.

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The Transformation of the Bowery Ballroom

Michael Swier, the co-founder of the famous newspaper the Village Voice and LA Weekly, bought up the property with an ingenious vision for it. He wanted to create a new music venue that didn’t just sound great but looked great as well. They spent a fortune to ensure the sound quality was perfect. And the new owners went to great lengths to preserve the historic parts of the building. Including the 84-year-old bronze rails. Once used by factory workers, the rails now served as the balcony on the second floor. With a capacity of 575 people, shows here are an intimate affair. If you have the chance to see a concert here when you’re in town, you certainly won’t be disappointed!

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Sohotel

Located on the corner of Bowery and Broome Street, you can spot the neon lights of the Sohotel. This hotel is the oldest hotel on the entire strip, opened in 1805! And throughout the over 200 years of its operation, it has had almost as many names. It was first the Military and Civic Hotel, then the Westchester. Then it became the Occidental, going on to be called the Pioneer. Now, it is known only as the Sohotel. Despite all the different names, the hotel itself hasn’t changed much in appearance over the years.

Hauntings inside the Sohotel

And any building with such a long life along the Bowery comes with its fair share of ghosts. The first occurrence that many believe started the slew of hauntings was the rash suicide of John P. Mount. Mount was a dry goods buyer for the Crawford & Simpson company. He had been a loyal employee for 20 years, so it was the shock of his life when he was unexpectantly fired. Mount was reportedly a very impulsive person and must have been thoroughly distraught after losing his job.

He checked into the hotel, and only a few minutes after leaving the front desk, the sound of a pistol firing was heard from his room in #103. People who stay on that floor report feeling cold even when the heat is on. And the lights are known to go on and off by themselves late at night. Perhaps the ghost of poor John Mount is visiting the hotel once more.

Bowery Savings Bank

Continuing along, be sure to take a moment to study the grand exterior of the old Bowery Savings Bank at #130 Bowery Street. The Bowery Savings Bank opened its headquarters here in 1834. It chose this spot as its new command post back when the Bowery was considered one of the most illustrious new neighbourhoods in town. It was on the cusp of middle-class status, just as the El train was being built. Before they knew the grim reality that the El train would carry along its tracks.

Stanford White, a notable architect who also designed the famous Washington Square Park arch, built the Bowery Savings Bank. Although the idea of using classical Roman-style Corinthian columns for the bank’s exterior seems commonplace now, this initial design would set the trend for banks to use this style for years to come!

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#139 Hester Street

One block south, make a quick stop east along Hester Street. At #139 Hester Street was where the beginnings of one of New York’s most elaborate jailbreak stories would occur. On September 29, 1892, carpenter Frank G. Paulsen was visited late at night by a familiar face. Frank W. Roehl had met Paulsen a few times in the local salons. And as German immigrants, they got along swiftly. But Paulsen was confused by the late-night visit, as the two weren’t that close. Soon after arriving, neighbours reported hearing screams. When next-door neighbour William Burns arrived on the scene, he was horrified to find the mutilated body of Paulsen lying on the floor. He appeared to have been hatched up with an axe.

When the police arrived, they found that Paulsen was missing his two gold watches that all his neighbours knew he never took off. Soon after, there were reports of a very drunk German man causing a scene in one of the local bars, who was also trying to peddle a few gold watches. When the police found Roehl, he was drunk out of his mind. And when they searched his body, they found a bloody axe in his coat pocket. 

Escape from Sing Sing

Roehl was tried for the murder, and when he was promptly found guilty, he was sent off to Sing Sing Prison, better known as the “House of Death.” Roehl was a marble worker and had been previously sent to Sing Sing, but not as a prisoner. But as an employee. He was sent to work on various stonework inside the prison. As such, he knew the prison’s layout well.

With the help of his new roommate, a notorious murderer, the two plotted their escape. Roehl knew of an escape hatch on the roof, and thanks to some hurricane-like weather conditions, the two managed to escape into the night, as they could not be seen by the tower’s watchmen.

The Discovery of Roehl’s Body

A warrant for their arrest was put out along with a hefty finder’s fee. One morning, while bringing in his lines on the Hudson river, fisherman Frederick Cronk noticed a body floating in his net, wearing Sing Sing’s iconic prisoner’s uniforms. Knowing about the reward, he immediately called the police. When they brought the body out of the water, they found it was none other than Frank Roehl. But he hadn’t drowned. Instead, he was found with a bullet hole in his head.

Days later, his roommate’s body also washed up on shore with a similar bullet wound in the head. Police could only determine it must have been a murder-suicide that brought about the untimely end of these two murderers. Despite being convicted of Paulsen’s murder, Roehl never completed his sentence, and it is perhaps for this reason that the tortured ghost of Paulsen is known to haunt the streets of Hester Street today.

#129 Mulberry Street

From here, let’s walk west along Hester Street towards Mulberry Street. In the 18th century, Mulberry Street was called “Mulberry Bend” as the road bent to veer around the Collect Pond’s wetlands. The name came from the fact that the area was once home to a large patch of mulberry trees that lined the land. But don’t let the idea of a tree-lined street confuse you, this part of town epitomized the worst of the city’s slums. The little lane also went by the name “Slaughterhouse Street,” as it was here where the slaughterhouse of Nicholas Bayard was located. 

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Rent here was cheap, and slumlords leased out overcrowded tenement houses to the vulnerable new immigrants who arrived in the city. Throngs of people lined the roads, and vendors crowded the narrow streets. Many of these new immigrants were of Italian heritage. In the 19th century, the area quickly became the heart of Manhattan’s Little Italy. And later in the 20th century, this area of town was one of the best places to run into members of New York’s Italian Mafia.

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Mulberry’s Mafia

The mafia was obsessed with preserving family and history, so it seems fitting that they would make their home along Mulberry streets. Some prominent mafia families have lived in homes here since the 1890s. And many of the businesses that line the streets were mafia owned. And the ones that weren’t were definitely under their thumb. Some were even required to pay a monthly stipend to get protection from the mob.

“Crazy Joe” Gallo 

In 1972, the notorious mob boss “Crazy Joe” Gallo was gunned down inside Umberto’s Clam House. Gallo was here with his family, celebrating his 43rd birthday. And it would surely be a birthday to remember. Four gunmen entered the dining room during the seafood course and shot twenty rounds into Gallo. To protect his family, Gallo stumbled after the gunmen, mortally wounded into the street and collapsed. And it was right here, beneath our feet, outside the restaurant, that he died. His ghost is still known to haunt the restaurant, perhaps upset he never got to finish that birthday dinner.

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Citizens Savings Bank

Heading back to the Bowery, make your way to the old Citizens Savings Bank on the corner of Canal Street and the Bowery. From here, you can look across Canal Street towards the grand arched entrance to the Manhattan street bridge. The best view of the Beaux-Arts style Citizens Savings Bank is along the Bowery. From here, you can best appreciate the giant arched windows that were once on either side of the bank. Back in the day, these would have let a tremendous amount of light into the building and stepping inside would have been a heavenly experience.

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The stonework was carved in a classic style with Doric columns and pilasters. This classical design was meant to give investors a sense of stability. On the top of the facade is a large, wreathed clock. Sitting atop the clock is a great eagle, flanked on either side by two seated figures. The one on the left is a Native American, and on the right, we see a sailor. Today, in keeping with its heritage, the building is occupied by a new branch of HSBC.

Bull’s Head Tavern

At #50 Bowery Street, we can find the swanky Hotel 50 Bowery, but if we take ourselves back to 1750, it was here that we would have found the old Bull’s Head Tavern. The tavern had long been nothing more than a barn for the cattle market, a literal stock market for local slaughterhouses. There was also a dog and bear fighting pit out back. And the smoky, dimly lit tavern grew around these seedy dens as a place for men to drink and gamble.

But, in November 1783, the Bull’s Head Tavern would enter the history books as it was here that General George Washington established his temporary headquarters on Evacuation Day. After the war, the tavern was converted into a butcher shop for Henry Astor to sell meat from the many slaughterhouses in the area. But when the slaughterhouses closed down, so did Astor’s shop, and the original building was lost to time. But history remembers its importance.

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Bowery Theatre

At #46 Bowery Street, you can now find Joe’s Shanghai restaurant. But for over 80 years, this was the spot where you could have found the old Bowery Theatre. The original building was named New York Theatre and was designed in an opulent Neoclassical design. The theatre seated over 3,500 people making it the biggest theatre in the United States. It was a superior beauty and home to ballets, operas, and high dramas. Sadly, just two years after opening, the theatre burnt down in 1828. 

When it reopened, it was no longer home to the European types of theatre that the middle and upper classes demanded. Instead, to match the changing nature of the Bowery, it was the place to go and see American nativist productions. These populist plays featured blood and guts melodramas which were popular with the rowdy masses. This also included the first production of racist blackface minstrel shows like the debut of “Jumping Jim Crow.” But it wasn’t just modern-day viewers that looked down on these types of productions; the ghosts of the theatre were clearly in opposition to the new productions. The theatre burned down four times in 17 years. Fires were a massive problem in New York, but four fires in a relatively short time was unheard of. Almost as if the building was cursed.

#40-42 Bowery

Just a few doors down, hidden behind the yellow and white restaurant awnings, are the old brick buildings, which once held the gang headquarters of the Bowery Boys. In the 1850s, these two buildings were the most feared place in town as they served as the rebellious clubhouse for the local gang members.

The Bowery Boys

The Bowery Boys were a nativist, anti-Catholic, and anti-Irish criminal gang. The gang was initially formed as a group of volunteer firemen. These men led relative law-abiding lives serving as tradesmen, mechanics and butchers. Back then, firefighting was a great way to make some money on the side. There were no central city-wide firefighters. Instead, local communities had rogue groups of firefighters. And it was the first group on the scene to put out the fire that got paid. So often, there was fierce competition to be the first on the scene. And with so many fires in the city, this was big money. This was when the firefighters turned gang members, as violence would often break out and deep-rooted rivalries were formed.

Bowery Boys Theatre

The location of their clubhouse next door to the Bowery Theatre was not happenstance. The Bowery Boys loved the theatre and spent almost all their free time inside. They were such famous attendees that often, plays put on inside the theatre were shows about Bowery Boys themselves. Which always got a massive reaction from the audience. Being working men, the Bowery Boys led a slightly more affluent lifestyle, indulging in entertainment. Despite still being defined as lower-class, the Bowery Boys thought their social status in the city was far and away above those of Irish immigrants who lived in the slum of the Five Points. To them, the slums of the Bowery were almost high living.

Dead Rabbits Riot

The Dead Rabbits were their biggest rival, an Irish Gang living inside the notorious Five Points slums. On July 4th, 1857, the Dead Rabbits attacked Bowery Boys Clubhouse. There were more than 1,000 men fought who fought in the riot that broke out. Firearms, clubs, bricks, bats, and stones were used in the attacks. The battle lasted for two days. And the police could do nothing to stop it. The rest of the city took advantage of the police being otherwise occupied, and looting took place across the Bowery.

The official reports claim only eight people were killed, but many think that fellow gang members were carried off by their friends before police arrived and buried in secret. So that the rival gangs would never know how many on the other side were lost. The Bowery Boys kept their clubhouse until the late 19th century when social reform tore apart the Bowery and the Five Points. With the removal and dismantling of the slums, the gang battles of the Five Points armies disappeared.

#18 Bowery

At the corner of Bowery and Pell Street, you can see the fabulous red brick exterior of #18 Bowery. Also called the Edward Mooney House. This is one of the oldest, if not the oldest, row houses in New York, dating back to 1785. Edward Mooney was a wealthy butcher who died in the house in 1800. After his death, the house passed hands many times, serving as a brothel, tavern, general store, restaurant and pool hall. The house still goes by his name despite Mooney not residing here for over 200 years. But perhaps he still remains, his ghost watching over the house in his name to this day.

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Doyers Street

Just down one block is the entrance to Doyers Street. Doyers Street is this seemingly charming winding pedestrian street home to Nom Wah Tea Parlor, the oldest dim sum restaurant in the city! And definitely worth checking out if you’re hungry!

But in the 19th and 20th centuries, Doyer’s Street had a much different atmosphere. The dark, almost hidden away lane was called the “Bloody Angle” and “Murder Alley” by the police officers who patrolled the streets. It was a favoured spot for gang violence, as underground tunnels could be used to escape after any altercations on the street above. 

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The Bloody Angle

During the 19th century, this part of Chinatown was ruled by two rival gangs. And their clashes would often prove to have deadly results. #5 Doyers Street was the original site of the first Chinese language theatre in New York City. In 1905 a fight broke out between members of the Hip Sing Tong gang and the On Leong Tong gang. The shootout inside the theatre resulted in the deaths of three people. According to police, more people have died violently along the Bloody Angle than at any other intersection in America! But don’t let that worry you; the area is much safer after police crackdowns in the 1990s and today’s gentrification of Chinatown.

But it was not just gang violence that haunted these streets. The old tenement houses on Doyers Street were subjected to multiple fires over the years. In 1910, four tenants died, and five were injured when fire swept through the buildings at #15 and #17 Doyers. Years later, in 1939, another fire broke out in the same building, killing seven people. So many deaths in such a small part of town have resulted in this being reported as one of the most haunted streets in the Bowery.

Five Points

Perhaps the most famous area of the Bowery is located just at the bottom tip, where you find the old stomping ground once known only as; the Five Points. The Five Points neighbourhood was originally located at the Orange, Anthony and Cross street intersection. The spot at which they met created five “points,” hence the name. Today you can find Columbus Park standing at the place where you’d have once found the old Five Points slums. Back in the 1800s, this place would have been the roughest area of New York City. Police only dared to venture into this part of town in large groups, as they feared the gangs which ran rampant throughout the small enclave.

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Collect Pond Townhouses

The area had previously been home to the large Collect Pond. But due to the slaughterhouses that would pour their discarded filth into the pond, the wastewater quickly became contaminated and was a severe pollution problem and environmental health hazard. The pond was filled in to quickly solve the problem. But the job was done poorly. The land quickly became unstable and released methane gas from the buried contamination below. Mosquitoes bred in the contaminated standing water, and diseases spread like wildfire.

Despite all this, there was a growing need for housing, so rickety brick and wood houses were built atop the uneven ground. The houses were unstable and would start to lean and sag at all angles. The only people who could imagine wanting to live here were people that could afford nothing else. Immigrants and the poor were preyed upon by greedy landowners to lease these truly uninhabitable houses. Unemployment, prostitution and violent crimes were the highest in this part of town than anywhere else along the Bowery.

Coulthard’s Brewery

For residents, the only way to deal with these horrible living conditions was to drink their days away. Hence the centre point of the neighbourhood became Coulthard’s Brewery, built on Cross Street in 1792. In the early 19th century, the old Brewery was converted into a tenement and boarding house. Originally, 221 people lived in just 35 tiny apartments. Even the cellars of the old Brewery were used to house tenants. But as more people poured into the Five Points, desperate for inexpensive housing, the landowners simply crowded more and more people inside. At one point, there were over 1,000 men, women and children living inside.

According to historian Herbert Asbury, demolition crews found human bones in the cellars and within the walls. In these cramped rooms, infectious diseases, such as cholera, tuberculosis, typhus, malaria and yellow fever, plagued the residents. Many of New York City’s worst epidemics originated in Five Points. Landlords often tried to hide these dead bodies to not be prosecuted by police due to their gross negligence inside and the overcrowding.

Murder Alley

Across the street from the brewery, homes was an aptly named, “Murder Alley.” In the 1850s, there was at least one murder a day here, for over 15 years! Famously, Charles Dickens visited the Five Points on a trip to New York and was horrified by what he saw.

“This is the place: these narrow ways, diverging to the right and left, and reeking everywhere of dirt and filth. . . . Debauchery has made the very houses prematurely old. See how the rotting beams are tumbling down, and how the patched and broken windows seem to scowl dimly, like eyes that have been hurt in drunken frays.”

Charles Dickens

Five Point Gangs

To make matters worse, the area was also home to many of New York’s most violent gangs. They went by names such as the Plug Uglies, Mulberry Men, Kerryonians, the Forty Thieves, the Shirt Tails, and the Chichester’s. In addition to the Dead Rabbits and the Bowery Boys, we heard about before. Joining a gang was a good way to seek protection while also putting yourself in harm’s way.

It’s important to note that originally the idea behind these gangs was not a violent one. Instead, it was a way in which people sought out a community. Irish, Germany, American and Scots wanted to preserve their culture amongst like-minded people. They also found this communal group a means of discussing the crime, poverty and exploitation they often faced. But these gangs hated each other, and large groups of men, incensed by their poor lot in life, can only sit at a boiling point for so long before it all boils over.

Social Reform

After the riots of 1857, the city knew something had to be done about the Five Points slum. So in 1887, the large portion of old tenements at the heart of the Five Points were destroyed. In their place, Columbus Park was built. Today, many people come to the old site of the Five Points after its history came back into the media landscape with Martin Scorsese‘s film Gangs of New York. But the real history of this place is far more interesting and truly an example of the kind of place the Bowery once was. The pretty green trees and playful basketball courts inside Columbus Park are a far cry from the once terrible slums that made this part of town so notorious.

The Five Points is the last stop on our Walking Tour of the Bowery. I hope you’ve enjoyed this thorough guide to one of the most interesting parts of New York City that so many people leave undiscovered. Let me know in the comments what your favourite part of the tour was or what new finds you uncovered along the way!

Happy Travels, Adventurers.

References:

buff, Michael is a New York City history, Amateur Genealogist, a member of the New York law enforcement community His NYC roots go back to 1820 on Water Street, and the Vinegar Hill section in Brooklyn. “1892 Hester Street Homicide.” Lower East Side History Project, December 27, 2017. https://www.leshp.org/blog/hester-street-homicide/. “Daytonian in Manhattan.” Accessed October 24, 2022. https://daytoninmanhattan.blogspot.com/. Atlas Obscura. “Edward Mooney House.” Accessed September 27, 2022. http://www.atlasobscura.com/places/edward-mooney-house. “Ephemeral New York | Chronicling an Ever-Changing City through Faded and Forgotten Artifacts.” Accessed October 24, 2022. https://ephemeralnewyork.wordpress.com/. “Hauntings at The Bowery Hotel – NY Ghosts,” January 3, 2016. https://nyghosts.com/the-bowery-hotel/. Inside Edition. “Is the ‘Most Violent Street in America’ Haunted?,” October 26, 2019. https://www.insideedition.com/is-the-most-violent-street-in-america-haunted-56716. The New York Times. “JOHN P. MOUNT A SUICIDE; He Shoots Himself in a Bowery Hotel, Leaving a Note for His Wife. WORRIED BY BUSINESS AFFAIRS For Twenty Years Connected With the Dry Goods House of Simpson, Crawford & Simpson — The Act Attributed to a Sudden Impulse.,” September 23, 1897, sec. Archives. https://www.nytimes.com/1897/09/23/archives/john-p-mount-a-suicide-he-shoots-himself-in-a-bowery-hotel-leaving.html. Lii, Jane H. “NEIGHBORHOOD REPORT: CHINATOWN; On Pell Street, Only Memories Of a Violent Past.” The New York Times, June 12, 1994, sec. New York. https://www.nytimes.com/1994/06/12/nyregion/neighborhood-report-chinatown-on-pell-street-only-memories-of-a-violent-past.html. Magazine, Smithsonian, and Angela Serratore. “The Desperate Would-Be Housewife of New York.” Smithsonian Magazine. Accessed September 27, 2022. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/the-desperate-would-be-housewife-of-new-york-140748/. onno. “Did You Know This About the Bowery?” Bowery Alliance of Neighbors (blog), June 12, 2016. https://www.boweryalliance.org/did-you-know-this-about-the-bowery/. Sachs, Andrea. “A Cheap Stay, with a Bit of History, in Manhattan.” The Seattle Times, January 21, 2012. https://www.seattletimes.com/life/travel/a-cheap-stay-with-a-bit-of-history-in-manhattan/. The Bowery Boys: New York City History. “The Bowery Boys: New York City History -.” Accessed October 24, 2022. https://www.boweryboyshistory.com/. Infamous New York. “The Death of Eat Em Up Jack McManus,” December 29, 2013. https://infamousnewyork.com/2013/12/28/the-death-of-eat-em-up-jack-mcmanus/. The Bowery Boys: New York City History. “The Murder on Bond Street: Who Killed Dr. Burdell?,” November 16, 2018. https://www.boweryboyshistory.com/2018/11/the-murder-on-bond-street-who-killed-dr-burdell.html. N.d.

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When visiting New York City this fall, I knew I had to honour this season of reading season by visiting all the Best Book Stores in New York City. I felt like Kathleen Kelly herself as I made my way across the city. Searching out the most enchanting and adorable bookshops along the way. They all filled me with anticipation to get cozy and do some reading when I got home. Like I was bringing those autumnal vibes from the city that never sleeps home with me! One of the reasons I love buying books when on vacation is that it feels like they embue a sense of the place they came from. And memories you’ll never forget.

Before Halloween, fall is the season for getting cozy. Light a few candles and cuddle up under a warm blanket. And to perfect the evening, grab a good book for the ultimate autumnal night in. And there is no where better to find that ideal fall novel, than in New York City itself!

Table Of Contents

1. Books are Magic
2. The Strand Bookshop
3. POWERHOUSE @ IC
4. Spoonbill & Sugartown Books
5. Albertine
6. The Morgan Library Shop
7. Mysterious Book Shop
8. Sweet Pickle Books
9. Rizzoli Bookstore
10. McNally Jackson Books
11. The Corner Bookstore
12. Three Lives & Company
13. Desert Island
14. The Center for Fiction
15. The Drama Book Shop

Books are Magic

Walking along the charming streets of Cobble Hill, you might almost miss the rather subtle exterior of my favourite bookshop! Found on the corner of Butler and Smith Street in Brooklyn. Emma Straub, an award-winning author, founded the Book Are Magic bookshop in 2017. This shop is designed in the industrial Scandinavian style, which lends itself to being a little bit more relaxed and unassuming. But stepping inside, the fantastical colourful books lining the shelves makes any chance a subtly an impossibility.

Perhaps because the store is run by an author herself, the collection’s curation is unrivalled! I always come here with nothing in mind to buy. Instead, I leave it up to the recommended section. And I’ve never ever come away disappointed. One of the cutest parts of the shop is the mural on the side of the building. I stellar place to get your defacto Instagram shot with your newest literary purchase!

Address: 225 Smith St, Brooklyn, NY

The Strand Bookshop

Back in the 1890s, fourth avenue was chock-a-block filled with bookshops. Forty-eight different bookstores once lined this stretch of New york City. It was nicknamed “Book Row.” It flourished for years but after the Great Depression, many of these bookshops were forced to close. Later one, the ones that remained were driven out by rising rental prices in the 1960s. Eventually, every single one of these bookstores on Book Row closed down. Every single shop, but one. And that was Strand Books. 

Strand Books first opened here in 1927 by Lithuanian immigrant Benjamin Bass. Bass opened the store with just $300 in his pocket. During the first year, Bass slept on a small cot inside the store to save money. Such was his dedication to his store and his love of books. Bass was close with several influencial members of the Stuyvesant family. The Stuyvesant’s owned a massive swath of land throughout New York. It was this lucky relationship with the Stuyvesants, that kept Bass afloat during the depression. After making it through tough times, the Strand became a historic staple of the neighbourhood. Growing in popularity year over year.

The Strand Today

Today, the bookshop remains loved by locals and tourists alike. The company’s slogan is “18 Miles Of Books” as you’ll find the shelves inside stocked with over 2.5 million books. Stepping inside can be an overwhelming experience at first. But eventually, the waves of books on the shelves almost lull you into a gentle rhythm. One of my favourite parts of the store are the themed tables in the centre of the store. The different categories allow you to discover the best of the best of these other subjects. As curated by expert bookworms at the Strand. Since the Strand is a pretty famous New York institution, there is also a plentiful selection of signed author copies of new publications! So if you’re a collector this is a must-see spot for you.

Address: 828 Broadway, New York, NY

POWERHOUSE @ IC

POWERHOUSE @ IC is located inside one of my favourite new spots in Brooklyn; Industry City. Industry City, as the name states, was constructed inside a series of old industrial buildings. Set outside a historic intermodal shipping and warehousing complex. The decor of the new POWERHOUSE @ IC shop fits well within this industrial complex. Bright yellow paint highlights the store shelves and flooring, while the rest of the interior features exposed cement walls. It’s rather austere but makes the books on the shelves works of art on display.

POWERHOUSE @ IC prides itself on featuring a wonderfully curated selection of books that focus on design, art, DIY, food, drink, and entertaining. Each of these categories is distinctly representative of the creative spirit of Industry City. Their selection of art books was incredible. I have a growing collection of Frida Kahlo books, and I was amazed to find several books I had never seen before! Situated inside the food hall, it is very appropriate that they feature an exclusive collection of gorgeous cookbooks. If you are travelling with kids, check out their charming children’s book area. Its’s ideally set up for kids to browse and features some beautifully illustrated books for kids.

220 36th St Building 2, Brooklyn, NY

Spoonbill & Sugartown Books

Stumbling onto Spoonbill & Sugartown Books, while wandering in Williamsburg, was a real pleasant surprise. This cozy independent bookstore specializes in rare art, architecture and design titles. All things that are right up my streets! I was overwhelmed by the gorgeous titles pouring off the shelves when I stepped inside. Set up within this old brownstone, complete with vintage tin ceiling, it feels like the bookshop grew around this new trendy neighbourhood.

While most of the books at the front of the store are new, they also have a smaller selection of used books at the back . These are always filled with treasures, so don’t skip that section over. They have a wonderful selection of LGBTQ+ stories and a superb poetry collection. The translated poetry being my favourite. They also sell a small but fabulous sampling of independent magazines representing New York City’s culture, fashion and art.

Albertine

There is no more magical bookstore in New York City than Albertine. Walking in here feels like entering the Divination classroom in Hogwarts. The bookshop is located inside the upscale Payne Whitney mansion on the upper east side. A building that also houses the French Embassy. As part of the French Embassy’s commitment to intellectual exchange, they opened this bookstore that specializes in French & English language books. Inspired by the historic ceilings of French cathedrals, the most iconic part of this bookshop is the incredible ceiling mural. The mural features rich French blue paint covered in golden constellations and planets.

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The spaces inside features cozy reading areas where you can lounge on the sofas, taking in the scenery. A great way to spend a rainy afternoon. While many people might not be able to read French and not see a reason to visit the shop, I would advise still checking it out. They have an unparalleled selection of stellar French cookbooks (which are written in English.) And if you’ve ever been interested in learning French they have some amazing books to get you started!

The Morgan Library Shop

The Morgan Library & Museum is one of my favourite hidden gems in New York City. The library features the personal literary collection of financier and cultural benefactor Pierpont Morgan. Morgan’s shelves feature illuminated literary and historical manuscripts, early printed books, and old master drawings and prints. And the entire collection is set inside his majestic Madison Avenue mid-nineteenth-century brownstone. Styled to resemble an Italian Renaissance palazzo, the library is one of the most spectacular places in the city. Admission to visit the library is required (and highly recommended), but you can always step in and visit the gift shop and bookstore for free!

The bookshop is set inside the same gorgeous building, and it feels like walking inside a precious work of art. And what many people don’t know is that the Morgan Library Bookshop is home to one of the city’s best collections of art books. And I was shocked at the discounted books they seem to always have on offer. There is also a vast collection of gifts and stationery if you’re into that kind of thing. If you’re a library lover, this is the place to come to get some pieces that will make a statement on your shelves.

Mysterious Book Shop

Fall is inherently a “spooky season,” and there is no better place to go during this scary time of year than the Mysterious Book Shop. The Mysterious Book Shop is New York’s oldest bookstore specializing in crime and mystery novels. The shelves reaching all the way to the ceiling are stocked to the gills with spine-chilling and intriguing tales. The walls of books act almost like wallpaper, creating this cozy atmosphere.

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If you’re into Agatha Christie, Sherlockiana, or just looking to discover a juicy new crime author, this is the place to go! The staff are SUPER knowledgeable and also keen to discuss their new favourites. Their New York City-based mystery section is incredibly cool since you can pick up a book set right in this city. Even long after your vacation, you can pick it up to feel like you’re right back on the streets of New York. They also have a gorgeous selection of rare books, which are a treat to wonder at.

Sweet Pickle Books

Sweet Pickle Books, located in the lower east side, is probably one of the most uniquely themed bookstores in the city. As the name states, they are indeed both a bookstore but also a pickle shop! The store’s concept was inspired by owner Leigh Altshuler‘s mother’s favourite movie Crossing Delancey. The 1988 movie is about a pickle peddler who falls in love with a book dealer. All set in the Lower East Side. Altshuler opened her store during the pandemic after losing her marketing job. She started selling homemade pickles from her apartment, but in 2021, when rental places became more affordable, she switched to a brick-and-mortar location. Since pickles were always such an essential part of the Lower East Side’s Jewish immigrant cusine, Altshuler also feels like her store is an homage to the neighbourhood.

But pickles couldn’t support her business entirely. When she saw how many people were simply giving books away in estate sales, she bought and resold them here. The result is the most haphazard collection, and I meant that in the most endearingly way. Searching the shelves here is a means of discovery, and since her prices are so low, you can find treasures for almost nothing! You never know what you’ll find, except for the pickles, which are always an absolute treat! Don’t miss out on the spicy ones, delicious!

Rizzoli Bookstore

Walking into Rizzoli Bookstore, you feel like you are entering an elegant Italian palazzo. The gorgeous chandeliers, marble floors, rich oak bookshelves and handpainted frescos on the walls make shopping here a luxurious experience. Rizzoli Bookstore has been open in New York for 50 years, although it has only spent half that time in this location on Broadway.

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Rizzoli is notable for its incredible collection of independent texts specializing in fantastically illustrated books. If you’re interested in architecture, interior design, fashion, photography, cooking, and applied arts, this is the place for you! Exploring these captivating collections can get you lost for hours. If you’re looking for an extra special gift to get someone, this is the place to go!

McNally Jackson Books

The soaring bookshelves of this two-storey shop in Brooklyn is one of the most beautiful visions a book lover will ever see. It reminds me of so many baroque libraries I’ve visited around the world. McNally Jackson Books is a New York independent bookseller with four locations across the city. Their shop in Brooklyn is my favourite as it blends modern interior design with classical bookshop vibes. Their curation, especially about hyper-specific categories, is terrific, and there is always something new to discover here.

If you’re a journaler, you will definitely appreciate their gorgeous selection of stationery. Hundreds of different pens in every rainbow colour and various leather notebooks are needed to jot down all those precious messages and memories.

The Corner Bookstore

The darling Corner Bookstore, on the literal corner of Madison Avenue, is set inside an old 1890s brick brownstone. Their window displays are filled to the brim with vivid book covers demanding you to come inside. Stepping into this storied building with charming tin ceilings feels quintessentially New York. This neighbourhood mainstay has been open here since 1978. They even still have the original manual cash register. A memento of the olden days.

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This store was actually one of the few iconic locations in New York scouted by the set designers for the film, You’ve Got Mail. Despite being a smaller store, they still have a beautifully curated selection of literary fiction, history, biography and children’s works. 

Three Lives & Company

This enchanted corner of New York City is home to the beloved Three Lives & Company bookstore. This legendary spot has stood here for over 40 years in the heart of historic Greenwich Village. You can spot the shop from down the street by the shockingly red door painted to match the red bricks of the old building.

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One of the best things about this shop is the staff. I always come here with NOTHING in mind to buy. Instead, I love chatting with the staff to see what they recommend in whatever category I seem drawn to that day. Inside this cozy interior, you can while away the afternoon simply by peering through their fantastical collections.

Desert Island

Walking down this street in Brooklyn, you’ll see the gorgeous retro signage for an old bakery. But inside, you’ll find something altogether different. I wanted to be sure to add a bookshop to this list that specializes in graphic novels. And this is THAT shop. Over the years, graphic novels have become one of the most exciting and captivating forms of literature and stepping into Desert Island books, you’ll know why! Desert Island is decorated with handmade ice-blue stalactite sculptures and gorgeous tapestries hung all over the interior. These decorations are meant to wrap up the visitors in a wonderfully imaginative environment in which to browse their books. The shelves are stocked with thoughtfully curated graphic novels, comic books, sweet treasures and one-of-a-kind prints!

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In addition, this store also sells some awesome zines made by local artists. These zines are such a hyper-niche thing. Usually, one-offs are only found here, so grabbing one is like buying up a piece of ephemeral New York art. Desert Island also publishes its own yearly all-illustration newspaper, “Smoke Signal.” These local oddities make the store unique and unlike anything else you’ll find.

The Center for Fiction

In the centre of Brooklyn, you’ll find this monolith to literature; the Center for Fiction! The walls are toweringly high, with a huge ladder required to access the books on the tallest shelves. Like a modern-day version of Beauty and the Beast‘s library. The Center for Fiction is the only nonprofit literary organization in the US. And this store is their first brick-and-mortar bookshop, which opened in 2019. The window side of the shop features floor-to-ceiling windows, allowing light to stream inside in the most heavenly way. Compared to some of the other bookstores on this list which are more dark academia, this place is contemporary chic! 

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In addition to their incredible selection of books, they also frequently hold panels, lectures, seminars, reading groups, and conversations led by some of the nation’s most beloved writers. Their cozy cafe and bar is a fantastic spot to come and grab a bite to eat while enjoying your newest book purchase. There are so many people here writing away on notepads and computer screens. Like you can feel the next big novel being written right in the room! The vibes here are unrivalled, and it is one of the most peaceful places in the city to come and shop.

The Drama Book Shop

As New York City is home to Broadway and one of, if not the BEST, places to see live theatre, visiting the Drama Book Shop feels like a truly New Yorkian outing! Open since 1917, the Drama Book Shop has been a mainstay of the New York theatre scene and a cultural institution for theatrical works. One of my favourite parts of going inside is admiring the decor. They always go all out with the store’s styling, and I’m sure they get some set decorators to help them create these fantastical displays. The most impressive is the “book tornado” that spirals all around the store. Whirling you into a dizzying book-buying frenzy!

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Although the shop has been open for over 100 years, it only recently moved to this new location. The new shop was designed by “Hamilton” set designer David Korins. It was created to pay homage to twentieth-century European cafes and reading rooms. So, in addition to all 8,000 playbooks, they also have a full-service cafe! Historic posters from Broadway’s past line the walls. If you are a thespian book lover, you’ll be in heaven. But it’s not just playbooks and musical scores that you’ll find here. There are many books about acting, non-fiction about the famous plays that made Broadway what it is today, and a fantastic collection of biographies from renowned actors and writers. If you ever wanted to know the secrets of the stage, you’ll find them in the books here.

I hope you enjoyed this literary shopping tour of New York City Bookshops! Let me know in the comment which one was your favourite or any that I might have missed!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The 15 Best Bookshops in New York City, a Bookworms Guide to NYC first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

After a week-long search across the city, I bring you this self-guided pizza tour! With this guide, you find and eat all these delicious slices on your next visit to the Big Apple! Don’t get me wrong, I love a triangle slice, but there are lots of those food tours out there! And I wanted to create something a little different. And trust me, you’ll totally fall in love with the grandma pizza if you’ve never had one before.

Table Of Contents

1. What is Grandma Pizza?
2. Anatomy of a Grandma Pizza
3. TIPS
4. Map of New York City Pizza Tour
5. Sal's Pizza, Brooklyn
6. Di Fara Pizza, Brooklyn
7. Table 87, Brooklyn
8. Gravesend, Brooklyn
9. Best Pizza, Williamsburg
10. Williamsburgh Pizza, Williamsburg
11. Screamer’s Pizzeria, Williamsburg
12. Kiss My Slice, Manhattan
13. Vito's Slices and Ices, Manhattan
14. Corner Slice, Manhattan

What is Grandma Pizza?

A Grandma Pizza is a distinctly New Yorkian invention. It made a name for itself on Long Island in the 1970s. Back then, restaurants were tired of making trendy circular pies and longed for a slice of nostalgia. So what did they do? Go back to the cookbooks and memories they cherished of their grandmother’s home-cooked pizza. 

Long Island Grandmas

A massive congregation of Italian immigrants arrived to Long Island in the 1880s. When these women landed on these new shores, they didn’t have almost anything to their name. Knowing cooking was the best way to preserve their heritage, they longed to whip up a traditional pizza to have a slice of home. But they didn’t have access to a coal pizza oven. And without the ovens, they couldn’t make the traditional round pies they used to cook back home in Italy.

But, they would not let this lack of tools defeat their quest. Instead, they used simply what they had at home. A sheet pan and a regular oven. The ingredients on top of the pizza were also humble. Homemade tomato sauce was the star of the show, along with fresh cheese and a green leaf of basil. These were the pizzas many restaurant owners grew up eating before opening their own joints. In the 1970s, they wanted to bring these slices back. And this time, sell them to everyone to let them get a taste of grandma’s delicious pizza. Hence the name. So before you tell me that these slices aren’t “traditional” New York pizza, I’d say that the grandma slice is even more hyper-local than the triangle street slices. One was brought to New York from Italy, the other was born right here in NYC.

Anatomy of a Grandma Pizza

As mentioned, grandma pizzas are made not in circular pans but in deep sheet trays. The dough for a grandma’s pizza is nice a thick! Almost like focaccia. This is the slice for you for someone who loves the bread part of pizza! The thick dough is instrumental in soaking up all that delicious tomato sauce they pile onto the pizza. You will find some grandma pizzas made in the Sicilian style, with thin crusts, but those are just as delightful.

To me, a great-tasting sauce is another key element that takes the grandma pizza to another level. Tangy and fresh, with nice dollops of sauce. Unlike regular triangular slices, the cheese is there to compliment the sauce, not overwhelm it.

Lastly, a serving of basil freshens the entire dish and lightens the heaviness you sometimes get with thick pizzas. Once cooked, the grandma’s pizza is served in rectangular slices. The corner slice is the most coveted of all the parts of the pizza as you get that nice crispy edge on two sides, a real pièce de résistance.

TIPS

Despite being one of the original dishes introduced by Italian immigrants, the grandma pizza has really only caught on throughout the city in the last 20 years. In the 70s, it stayed mainly on Long Island, but today, you can find it everywhere! And it is one of the city’s most popular slices in pizza shops. Often selling out long before the other pies. This Pizza Tour of New York will show you where to get the best grandma slices in the city. I’ve organized the different stops into their various neighbourhoods so you can plan your day around them. Spend a day in Brooklyn or an afternoon in Williamsburg. Use these locations to etch out your rough itinerary. And use the time between meals to explore the neighbourhoods more for yourselves!

Individual Slices

All the pizza stops on this list sell individual slices of pizza. I went through many other guides of the best pizza in New York that only featured whole pies. And while I’m sure they’re delicious, whole pies almost always mean a sit-down experience. Or just the need to eat an entire pizza. If you’re travelling with a big group, this might work. But smaller groups will find it harder to fit in as many stops if they’re required to eat an entire pizza every time.

Buying individual slices also means these stops on the New York City Pizza Tour can be as quick as you want. If you want to down your pizza and get on the road, so be it! But if you’d rather sit down for a bit, you can do this too! Options for all! If you’re not a huge eater, get one slice, and share it between two people. That way, you can easily fit more slices from different locations across town in one day. We would frequently order just one slice to share and almost everywhere we went offered to slice it down the middle for us!

Rating Your Pizzas

One of the things that really took our pizza tour to the next level was rating them along the way! Who had the best crust, the tastiest sauce, the perfect atmosphere, and the most unique toppings? After making a little scorecard we could determine which places were whose favourites! It’s such a fun way to get the conversation going and make more of an event out of the entire tour! Obviously, everyone will have their own opinion about their favourite kind of pizza, and these were just my favourites. But hopefully, you will love the ones we found for you!

The Prices

Another huge bonus to this type of tour is the price! New York City is an expensive best to travel. But all of these slices on tour are under $6. So it’s easy to get really full for really cheap!

Map of New York City Pizza Tour

Sal’s Pizza, Brooklyn

Brooklyn is my favourite place in the city to come for pizza. The streets are such a dream to walk around, and there is no shortage of incredible architecture, chic cafes and awesome shops. But best of all, is the pizza. Sal’s Pizzeria is one of those Brooklyn establishments that feels like it hasn’t changed in 50 years. This place is CASH ONLY; that’s how old school they really are. Sal’s is as unpretentious as it gets without compromising on quality.

The sauce here is amazingly tangy. Made with fresh, chewy tomatoes, onions and garlic. But to make the pizza that much more interesting, they add a few dollops of pesto sauce. This really amps up the flavour. Sitting outside with a couple of glass soda bottles makes you feel like stepping back to a simpler time. The perfect way to spend the afternoon.

BONUS: Walk to Court Pastry Shop across the street for an authentic cup of Italian Ice. Court Pastry Shop has been open for almost 75 years and is a slice of Brooklyn’s history!

Address: 305 Court St, Brooklyn, NY 11231
Price: $3.50

Di Fara Pizza, Brooklyn

The Di Fara Pizza shop is a bit of a trek to get to, located in the Midwood neighbourhood of Brooklyn. But it’s one of those places worth the effort to find. Thankfully the Q train has a station right outside the restaurant at Avenue J. So it’s still very accessible by public transit. Di Fara Pizza has been open here since 1965. It was started by the De Marco family, who immigrated from Italy. And ever since opening, their pies has been legendary.

Their grandma slices have the most impeccably caramelized crust with just the right amount of crunch and burn. The huge dollops of sauce are the ideal compliment to the crispy dough. This is the freshest pie you can ask for. The tomatoes tasted like they were plucked from the plant only moments before and yet embued with such herby flavours. Yes, sure, there might be a wait, but it’s worth it! And the people watching here in this quaint little neighbourhood is a great way to pass the time.

Address: 1424 Avenue J, Brooklyn
Price: $6.00

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Table 87, Brooklyn

Table 87 made a name for itself off its coal-fired oven. The super-heated range cooks pizzas at 900° in under just two minutes! The result is this flavourful char that is other worldly. And while they might have a few different locations around the city, their flagship spot in Brooklyn is my favourite place to dive into one of their incredible slices!

The margarita pizza had the best tasting cheeses of all the locations we’d been to. Salty, stretchy and stupendous! I’m someone who really loves cheese, and the fact this place lays it on thick (literally) added extra points in my book! The dough was also one of the thickest, which helped balance out the extra cheese. Their outdoor seating in the middle of one of the charmingest parts of Brooklyn is icing on the cake. But if you visit when it’s chilly they have a huge amount of indoor seating. Enjoy a slice with a glass of wine or crisp Italian soda.

Address: 87 Atlantic Ave, Brooklyn
Price: $5

Gravesend, Brooklyn

The newbie on the Brooklyn block is Gravesend Pizza. Aptly named as they are located just west of the famous Greenwood Cemetery. And their pizza is truly to die for. But let’s hope not literally. Gravesend specializes in a few different grandma-style pizzas but their upside-down pizza, served with the sauce on top, is my favourite. The tomatoes get carmelized slightly more by the direct heat of the oven by being on top. Leaving you with the tastiest pizza! The staff here were immensely kind and welcoming. Making us truly wish we lived just around the block so we could visit them every week!

Address: 181 34th St, Brooklyn
Price: $4

Best Pizza, Williamsburg

Williamsburg is best known today as the centre of hipster culture. But historically, it was also home to a large Italian community. And the blend of trendy and historical cuisines results in some of the best spots in the city to get a slice! One of those places is aptly named Best Pizza! Restaurant owner Frank Pinello grew up on Long Island, where he was greatly influenced by his Sicilian grandmother’s cooking. Down in the basement, she would crank out traditional grandma-style pizzas, and Pinello wanted to bring those same delicious flavours to the public when he owned his establishment.

The pizzeria uses a 120 years old wood-burning oven to churn out some of the best slices in town. The wood they use in the oven really flavours the pizzas which come out of it. They are also well known for making their own fresh mozzarella in-house. And trust me, if you’re a cheese fan, you can really taste the difference. The crust here is both thin and bubbly, all at the same time. The flavours are simple and complex. This place truly is the definition of balance. It’s genuinely an incredible culinary experience and one you NEED to try. And honestly, the retro patio chairs out front make it feel so homely. Like you really are eating at your grandma’s house!

Address: 33 Havemeyer St, Brooklyn, NY 11211, United States
Price:

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Williamsburgh Pizza, Williamsburg

The exterior of Williamsburgh Pizza is one of the most iconic of all our destinations. Those old-fashioned red and white stripes simply call you inside! The Williamsburgh Pizza shop made a name for itself here in this trendy neighbourhood. But it wasn’t long before they started to expand to locations around the city. But their original spot in Williamsburg is my pick of places to try out these stunning slices! It just feels all the more authentic.

Williamsburg Pizza is the place to go for that delectable crunch! The dough is crispy, but the interior is chewy, fluffy and airy all at once! I also really felt like I could taste the garlic in their tomato sauce more than at other places. And I loved that addition. When we visited. they were out of the margarita grandma slices, so we got the pepperoni. I loved how the pepperonis got a little burnt just around the edges. It added such a dynamic flavour and was irresistible. Biting into this slice, the crunch echoes across the neighbourhood. Like a bat signal, calling out to other hungry pizza fanatics.

Address: 265 Union Ave, Brooklyn
Price: $5

Screamer’s Pizzeria, Williamsburg

If you only saw pictures from this place, you’d never know all the slices here are VEGAN! I wanted to include at least one vegan option on this list. Vegan food is becoming increasingly more popular and if you’ve never had a vegan pizza before, THIS is the place to try one! Screamers are undoubtedly the most modern pizzeria on the list, leaning into the needs of the clientele that makes up the neighbourhood. As soon as you step inside you are greeted by these fantastically bright pink walls. Local artisan prints hang on the walls and band stickers cover the tiles. It’s a hipster haven.

If there is one thing that vegans have perfected, it’s bread. And the bread is best savoured in its grandma slices. The crust is huge and fluffy, and the sauce they serve is wonderfully favoured with their homemade garlic oil. I don’t know much about vegan cheese, but the kinds they used to simulate the real thing was super impressive. The perfect blend of creamy and salty, brightened up by those fresh slices of basil! Absolutely magical!

Address: 620 Manhattan Ave, Brooklyn
Price: $4.75

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Kiss My Slice, Manhattan

Over in Manhattan, you can barely go one block without seeing signs for pizza. While heading over to the theatre district before a Broadway show, we were on the hunt for a slice. I had monstrously low expectations as this part of town is my worst nightmare. Most of the area is just crowds of souvenir shops and tourist traps. But, I thought to myself, even bad pizza is still pretty good, so what do I have to lose?

We stopped into Kiss My Slice, thinking of it as nothing more than a stereotypical New York-style hole in the wall. No aesthetics or even a table to sit down on. It’s a standing room only! But as soon as we walked in, we were greeted with such friendly smiles. And I was really impressed with the variety of toppings on their offerings. But we went with the grandma-style pizza and were so surprised by just how delicious it was! The sauce was tangy and fresh, the crust was crispy but not dry. And the cheese had the perfect pull to it. Overall, having a good spot in the centre of town is so important. As a tourist, you’ll more than likely have to cross through this area around Times Square. And knowing where to grab a decent slice is key!

Address: 274 W 40th St, New York
Price: $4.25

Vito’s Slices and Ices, Manhattan

Vito’s Slices and Ices is a relatively new shop that came onto the pizza scene in Manhattan a few years ago. But the owners come with over 20 years of restaurant experience. They opened this place to honour old-school New York-style pizza. Made with hand stretch dough and specializing in grandma square slices! The shop gets a lot of their produce from local farmers’ markets, and this freshness is noticeable in the food! Despite being a relatively new establishment, the interior decor references old-school pizzerias of the 1930s. And I can’t get enough of it!

Their grandma’s slices are stacked! Definitely one of the fluffiest doughs we’ve had. Like biting into a pillow! The sauce here is unreal, and I think one of the best parts of the pizza. Unlike some joints that only sell one style of grandma, this place has three versions, including the upside-down Sicilian slice. I love these upside-down slices as the sauce really is allowed to sing and be the star of the show.

Address: 464 9th Ave, New York
Price: $4.25

Corner Slice, Manhattan

Okay, if you’re into bread, you need to hit up Corner Slice. Although this restaurant is deemed one of the more modern pizzerias in the city, it is doing it right. Corner Slice takes bread baking to the next level, using only artisan flour for all of its pizza. Their dough undergoes a 60-hour fermentation before it is stretched out to become the base for the pizzas. The result? A heavenly puffy and chewy crust with a depth of unrivalled flavour.

In addition, their grandma-style slice features three different kinds of tomatoes from New York, California and Sicily. The texture is rather pulpy, and while I’m NOT a pulp fan, even I was wowed by how flavourful each bite was. The pizzas are topped with sweet Sicilian oregano before they are served up to the customer, leaving you with an entirely unique-tasting slice in a chic, quick-service shop! Phenomenal.

Address: 600 11th Avenue at, W 45th St, New York
Price: $5.75

Phew, I’m full just writing all this! But has me dreaming of going back to New York to get my hands on just one of those incredible slices. Thank you for joining me on this self-guided New York City Pizza Tour. Let me know in the comments which shop was your favourite or any others you think should be added to the list! The possibilities are endless in a city like New York City but I hope my guide has helped you find a few hidden gems!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post 10 Best Grandma Pizzas in New York City, a Self-Guided Pizza Tour first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Whether you believe in ghosts or not, the true stories behind the legends are a great way to learn more about this incredible city. Whether you’re an avid urban explorer or just someone looking for something unique to do during your stay in New York, this Greenwich Village Ghost Tour will help you discover all of the best haunts. And best of all, you get to go at your own pace. There are so many places along the way to rest your feet, so don’t be scared to take a break, or grab a drink at one of the many bars and cafes along the way!

About the Tour

This tour starts off in the eastern outskirts of Greenwich Village and ends aptly on the north tip of the neighbourhood, just off of Greenwich Avenue. The google map below will show you all the stops along the way! The walk will take around two hours, taken at a leisurely pace. Stop in a restaurant, grab a beer in a pub or even just sit and admire the architecture. Plus, you want all the chances you can get to see if you can spot a spectre!

There are plenty of spooky and scary stories along the way, so if you’re taking this tour with little kids you might want to pre-read through some of the stories. That way, you can decide for yourself if they are appropriate for your kids.

Map of Greenwich Village Ghost Tour

When To Do the Tour

The best time to do the tour is before dusk. Remember: New York is a big city. And like any big city, you need to keep your wits about you when walking around at night. But the tour is designed around popular locations in busy parts of the city. That way, you’re not somewhere totally out of the way late at night. You don’t want to start your walk too late at night. That way, you might miss out on being able to stop in for drinks along the way.

Obviously, “spooky season” (aka September and October) are the most atmospheric times to do the tour. The leaves change and cast a gorgeous yellow and orange hue across the brick brownstones. And the crisp Autumnal air sets the scene for ghostly apparitions. But if you don’t care about the time of year, you can absolutely take this Greenwich Village Ghost Tour whenever you are in town.

Quick History of Greenwich Village

The original marshland that now makes up Greenwich Village was called Sapokanikan by the indigenous people who were the first inhabitants of New York. Sapokanikan means “tobacco field” since the indigenous people used this rich land, close to the water, for their fields and crops. Greenwich Village was also a popular spot for fisherpeople as it was located next to a populated trout stream.

When the Dutch colonized the land, they renamed it New Amsterdam, after the original capital city in the Netherlands. At the time, this little hamlet was far from the dense city centre. When the English arrived, they battled for land and won it from the Dutch in 1664. But it wasn’t until 1713 that the colony was officially designated as “Grin’wich” in the public records. It was named after a popular neighbourhood in London.

Exodus to Greenwich

In the late 1700s and early 1800s, people were trying to escape the yellow fever epidemic that ravaged the centre of New York. So they fled to areas outside the epicentre, into rural communities like Greenwich. New blocks of rowhouses began to pop along previously uninhabited farmland. These new streets were designed in the popular Federal style. Houses were simple square or rectangular boxes, only two or three stories tall. Most New York Federal-style buildings were made of brick with cast or wrought iron handrails. The brick buildings that make up this part of the city are one of the most iconic features of the area. These houses were occupied mostly by middle-class merchants and tradespeople.

In 1833 the New York City University moved its campus to Greenwich. With all these academics in one central area grew a bohemian environment. Art galleries, literary salons, and libraries swept through to match demand. This beatnik enclave was marked by cheap rent, drawing more and more artists and immigrants to the area. And drove out the upper classes.

Bohemian Greenwich

In the late 19th century, Greenwich Village saw another huge growth spurt. This was with the influx of French, Irish, and Italian immigrants fleeing Europe during World War II. Factories began to pop up around the area where large expanses of land were still available. And these factories could easily be filled with immigrant workers living in the newly created tenements housing.

This free spirit and rowdy community were rich with speakeasies in the prohibition era of the 1920s. Which ironically attracted uptown patrons who couldn’t find anywhere to drink in their upper-crust neighbourhoods. Throughout the years, the neighbourhood became known for its counterculture attitudes and was a hub for political and cultural movements. In fact, it was here that the Stonewall riots were first started. Sadly, rising housing costs in the district drove out the artists that originally made it what it was. Today the neighbourhood remains one of the most architecturally and historically rich areas of New York City.

St. Mark’s Church in-the-Bowery

The first stop on our tour is notoriously one of the most haunted. At the intersection of 2nd and 10th Street, walk north until you see the giant silhouette of a church in the distance. This is the old St. Mark’s Church in-the-Bowery. As you approach, keep your ears peeled for the sounds of an old church bell ringing in the distance.

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Petrus Stuyvesant

The site for this first church in the area was purchased in 1652 by Petrus (Peter) Stuyvesant. Stuyvesant was the first of the colony of New Amsterdam. Stuyvesant was originally a great Dutch soldier. But during a battle against the Spanish, he was badly wounded and lost his leg. It was amputated and replaced with a wooden leg, giving him the nickname “Peg Leg Pete.” Because he could no longer fight, he was selected by the Dutch West India Company to go to New York. There he would serve as governor of one of their new colonies.

Stuyvesant built a small church on the site for himself and his family. After his accident, Stuyvesant was a melancholy man. He was also a religious man, and the church brought him much peace. Stuyvesant had purchased this specific property for his dwelling because it was located far away from the hustle and bustle of the “big city.” So it was much to his dismay, as the city continued to grow, that his once peaceful neighbourhood would soon be riddled with townhouses and noisy pedestrians.

Despite all this, Stuyvesant stayed put in his home, and when he died, he was buried beneath his chapel. In 1793 the original chapel was sold off to the village. But the community built an even more impressive Episcopal church in its place in 1795.

The Ghost of St. Mark’s Church in-the-Bowery

But soon after building the new and improved church, people started noticing strange occurrences happening inside. One day, the villagers were awoken by the tolling of the church bell. This would usually not be a strange noise, but this bell was ringing in the middle of the night. And it wouldn’t stop!

Everyone raced to the church to see what was the matter. But when they arrived, they found the door to the bell tower locked shut from the inside. When they finally broke down the door, the noise stopped. But the room was empty. And they looked up to find the bell’s rope had been cut. The only reachable part of the rope was way too far above the ground for anyone human to reach. Everyone was perplexed as to how the bell had been rung at all, let alone for hours.

The townsfolk searched the church for clues. Finally, they found the torn part of the rope lying atop Peter Stuyvesant‘s crypt. And as they were all standing around the crypt in silent horror, they heard the sound of Stuyvesant’s wooden leg echoing throughout the halls of the church. Today many people report still hearing the ghostly footsteps of Stuyvesant’s wooden leg throughout the church. See if you can hear it for yourself.

The Body Snatchers

Another interesting story from the churchyard revolves around the stone burial vault of Alexander Turney Stewart. When he died in April 1876, Alexander Turney Stewart was America’s third-richest man. Stewart made his fortune as a retailer. He was a hugely popular figure in the city, and his funeral was packed with the city’s cream of the crop. Writers, politicians, lawyers and more all came out to St. Mark’s Church on the Bowrey to pay their respects.

In October, six months after Stewart’s burial, the church sexton noticed that doors to the vault had been disbursed. When he looked inside, he noticed several vault slabs moved, but the tombs were still in place. The sexton was immediately suspicious, with fears of so-called “resurrection men.” He made sure to a night watchmen just in case the people who broke in tried to do it again.

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Resurrection Men

In the 1780s, grave robbing was on the rise. Originally grave robbing was mainly done for doctors to get their hands on “fresh” dead bodies. They used these to practice their trade and other medical experiments. But in 1870, the sensation of grave robbing was often done in search of ransom. Even Abraham Lincoln’s body was victim to an attempted robbery. Although thankfully, that was thwarted. But it was not uncommon for the bodies of wealthy men to fetch an acceptable price. Once the ransom was paid, the bodies would be returned.

The Theft of A. T. Stewart’s Body

Unfortunately, the watchmen the section hired failed at his one duty. And on the morning of November 7th, the sexton discovered the body of A. T. Stewart had been removed from his vault. Police arrived on the scene and were horrified by the brown blotches they found around the area. These were immediately identified as “pieces” of Stewart. Stewart had been dead for more than eight months and would have been in a terrible state of decomposition. So when the criminals left with the body, they left bits of the body trailing behind them as they fled. But the trail went cold, and the police had no leads.

Media Sensation

The newspapers ate up this media sensation. A reward of $25,000 was offered to the public for any information leading to the thief’s capture. Hundreds of letters poured in with theories, but none proved to provide any actual leads. In 1879 the attorneys for Stewart received a letter from Canada claiming to be the robbers. When the lawyers asked for proof, they provided several silver pieces of Stewart’s missing nameplate, also taken during the robbery. The lawyers tried negotiating with the thieves, but the trail eventually went cold. As perhaps the thieves were getting scared off, with talk of the robbery is all the papers.

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Walling’s Confession

A very contested private memoir from the police chief Walling in 1878 claimed that he was in communication with the real thieves. And he claimed to have negotiated with the criminals. With the help of Stewart’s wife, they met up at midnight on an abandoned pathway outside the Hudson Valley. The masked men arrived on horseback with a velvet coffin cloth from the tomb. And a bag of bones they claimed was Stewart’s.

The masked men handed them over in exchange for the money and rode off into the night. Walling claims the bones were taken by Stewart’s wife. In 1885, they were laid in the Cathedral of the Incarnation, where Stewart’s wife was buried. But many have refuted this claim as gossip and a way for Walling to make a few bucks on his memoir. No one will ever know the truth, but many people have claimed that the cemetery is haunted by the ghost of Stewart. Stewart is known to roam angrily around the church, furious about being torn from his grave. Many say if you smell something awful, like the piece of his body that was trailed behind, that is a sign Stewart is just around the corner.

McSorley’s Old Ale House

Head south along 2nd Avenue, turning west onto East 7th Street. Walk west along east 7th Street until you reach #15 where you’ll find the historic McSorley’s Old Ale House. McSorley’s is Manhattan’s oldest continuously run tavern! You definitely need to make a point to stop here inside to rest your legs and admire the decor and atmosphere, and get a drink! The darkened wood of the walls is almost stained with history. Along the interior, you’ll see an authentic old wanted poster for John Wilkes Booth. The chair hanging above the bar was the one that Abraham Lincoln himself sat in when he came in for a drink. And the handcuffs on the wall were apparently worn by Harry Houdini.

But what might lurk in the shadows among the displays are the ghosts of the tavern’s past. Bar staff have frequently seen their cats arching their backs and nuzzling into invisible hands. As if the ghost that comes every night is only there to give the cats a pet. So see if you can spot any cats who look particularly happy with no living soul around to be entertaining them.

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Merchant’s House Museum

Walk south down 3rd Avenue, and turn west down 4th street. At #29 stands an old brick mansion, sitting in between two large empty lots, ripe for new constructions. But the old mansion remains, sticking out like a sore thumb. The house was once owned by wealthy merchant Seabury Tredwell. It was built in 1832, and despite its age, if you walked inside, you’d find almost the entire house unchanged.

In the 250 years since its construction, the house appears as if no time has passed. This is because the house is now a city-owned museum. It aimed at presenting to the public the personal lives of upper-class families living in New York in the 19th century. Throughout the museum are hundreds of personal objects from the Treadwell family. And supposedly, one descendant, in particular, doesn’t like when you touch her things. This would be their youngest daughter, Gertrude Tredwell.

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Gertrude’s Ghost

Gertrude was a spinster who lived out her entire Iife inside the house. She was born here in 1840 and died in 1933. Gertrude had seven siblings, two brothers and five sisters. While the rest of her family grew up and got their own families, Gertrude remained alone. Gertrude had one real chance at love, but sadly, the affair was broken up by her Episcopalian father, who refused to let Gertrude marry a poor Irishman. As she grew older and became a spinsterhood, she became more and more eccentric. She seemed to care only for the house, with nothing left in her own life to care for. She was constantly obsessing with ensuring the house maintained its elegance. Even as she herself fell into financial ruin.

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Her sad fate supposedly inspired Henry James‘ novel Washington Square Park, about a woman whose father attempts to thwart her romance with another man. After Gertrude’s death, the house was passed down to her cousin. But, knowing how much Gertrude protected the history of the house, the cousin was able to sell the house and all its contents to the city. Who saved it from foreclosure by turning it into a museum.

Since becoming a museum, the staff have seen the ghostly figure of Gertrude roaming the halls. She loved nothing more than to make loud noises whenever “her” objects were being moved. See if you can spot her in the window, peering down on the street. She is often seen looking out the window, always watching out for her beloved home.

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Furman Hall

Leaving 4th Street behind, we’ll head down to 3rd Street. Walk west down the street and continue walking until you reach the corner of #85 West 3rd Street. This building is the residence for NYU students, Furman Hall. Unfortunately for the students, we find ourselves at another haunted residence. But this building is a real literary treasure of the city. It was here where Edgar Allen Poe lived when he wrote his infamous poem, The Raven.

Preserving Poe’s House

Back then, the buildings along West 3rd Street were made up of a series of brick rowhouses. During Poe’s time in his rowhouse, he lived with his beloved wife (and cousin) Virginia Eliza Clemm Poe. Virginia suffered from Tuberculosis, but this, combined with the stress from Poe’s scandalous activities, caused her untimely death. After her death, Poe moved out of the house and to his cottage in the Bronx. Partly to escape the madness he began to suffer after her death. When the house was set to be demolished in 2001, 70 scholars from NYU fought to preserve it. They wanted to keep Poe’s legacy within New York alive for future literary fans to appreciate for years to come.

But the building was simply in too bad of a state to be restored, and even renovation would be near impossible. As a compromise, the entire front facade of the house was cut out and preserved. It was then integrated into the new building at #85 West 3rd Street. Standing opposite the new building, even those who might not know the whole story can clearly notice the rather strange-looking addition to the facade. You can really see the difference between the salmon-coloured bricks from the original facade and the deeper red-coloured bricks from the new building surrounding it. But both brick patterns were laid out in the rinning-bond pattern to create unity between the two structures. If you walk up to the small front door on the outside of the building, you can see a plaque dedicated to the famous writer explaining the whole story.

Ghost of Edgar Allan Poe

Another architectural element preserved from the original building was a wooden banister. Today, it stands in the entryway to Furman Hall. Many students have reported seeing the ghost of Edgar Allen Poe walking up and down the staircase, holding onto the railing. Often, the students report seeing him one minute and yet gone the next. Edgar Allan Poe was a deeply troubled soul, and the death of his beloved wife marred him perhaps more than all the other events in his life. So it is without a doubt that this place would be an important spot where his spectre would return. Wandering up the stairs, holding onto the railings, and looking out the windows, for that raven, nevermore.

#84 West 3rd Street

Right across the street, at #84 West 3rd Street, you can see the gorgeous facade of an old Fire House. The house has since been transformed into a grand private residence for none other than news anchor Anderson Cooper! But Anderson must be a pretty brave owner as this building is known to be haunted by the ghost of Firefighter Schwartz.

During its time as a firehouse, firefighters would constantly report seeing a man’s ghostly figure hanging from the attic rafters. The story goes that this was the ghost of a firefighter who once worked here in the 1930s. After discovering that his wife was having an affair, he hung himself from the rafters, unable to cope with the betrayal. Ever since, workers reported hearing noises and creaking coming from that attic. As if his body was still swinging from those rafters. The large windows frame the upper-level beam with light at night so keep an eye out to see if you can see the ghost still hanging from above.

Washington Square Park

Walking north, you only have to go so far before you hit Washington Square Park. This site is perhaps one of the most popular destinations for tourists coming to New York City. It’s known for its communal atmosphere, with musicians and artists surrounding the fountain at all times of the day. Entertaining the masses that collect here to sit around the fountain or relax on the benches that surround it.

Potter’s Field

But few tourists, and many locals, might not know when they are walking onto the square because below them lies over 20,000 bodies. Buried right under their feet. In the 1780s, the city purchased a parcel of eight acres of land to be converted into a large potter’s field. A potter’s field was the old term for a common grave site. The bodies buried in these types of graveyards were often those of criminals, the destitute, or even those who could not be buried in a church cemetery for religious reasons.

Yellow Fever Epidemic

But in the late 18th century, the epidemic of yellow fever hit New York City. The spread of the virus was most prevalent in the centre of Manhattan, and it claimed thousands of lives. But what to do with so many bodies? And bodies that were thought to still be infected. The answer was to bury them in graves far outside the city centre in the hopes of preventing further spread. So the potter’s field out in what is now Washinton Square Park was selected as the prime location.

Transformation into Washington Square Park

The cemetery was closed in 1825, and the ground was quickly paved to create the Washington Military Parade Ground. Seemingly overnight, the area was transformed from a haunting burial ground to a fashionable residential area. Fountains, pathways and gardens were added to the beautification of the park. And in 1889, to celebrate the centennial of George Washington’s inauguration, an enormous stone Memorial Arch was built in his memory. Modelled after the Arc de Triomphe in Paris.

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Ghosts of Washington Square Park

But despite the visual changes to the area over the years, there is no use in ignoring the fact that this beautiful parks stands atop a mass grave. And ghosts have certainly not forgotten. People have reported feeling a freezing cold chill run down their spine even on hot summer days. And if you spot a woman dressed in 18th clothes walking by, only to disappear a moment later, you surely have spotted one of the “local” residents.

Another rumour tells the story of a local store owner who would see a woman in dishevelled clothing coming into his shop, begging for milk for her child. After taking the milk, she would quickly run outside. One day, the store owner followed her out. She ran into the park, and the horrified store owner watched as she disappeared into the dirt ground below.

Hanging Tree

But it is not just the bodies of those taken by the virus that haunts the ground here. The park was also home to a great Hangman’s Elm. The old tree still stands on the northwest corner of the park. The elm tree dates back more than 300 years and is considered one of the oldest surviving trees in Manhattan. There are tales that the tree may have been used for public executions, but there is no truth to this rumour. Its spooky appearance perhaps gives it a bad reputation. Only one public execution was ever known to have taken place here in Washington Square park. And it occurred with the use of a gallows, not by the tree.

Rose Butler

The victim of this sole execution was a young woman named Rose Butler. Rose was executed in 1820 for the shockingly benign crime of arson. Rose was only 19 years old and an enslaved woman living in the household of a nearby family. Her only crime was setting fire to the wooden steps of her owner’s house.

Police claimed she had “confessed” to setting the fire in the hopes that she could trap her enslavers inside the house. And burn them alive. But many doubt the truth of this story. Rose was sentenced to death for a minor crime where no one was injured, and the damage to the stairs was barely even noticeable. The fire put out with a small bucket of water. Her unjust death, is a clear marker of the racism that black people were subjected to. And still are to this day. In 1827, slavery in New York was abolished, just seven years after Rose’s execution.

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The Ghost of Rose Butler

Rose was buried in the same spot where she was executed, the last person buried in this potter’s field. Rose’s ghost is known to haunt the park. Some claim to see her swinging from the hangman’s elm. Others have been known to see her apparition walking through the park. Often lingering under the shadow of the elm tree. If you do come across her ghost, be sure to pay her some respect. As the last person buried here she is often thought of as the proprietor of the burial grounds. And so perhaps she is still walking about, monitoring and looking after her fellow departed.

Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire

Walk through the park, east along Washington Place, to #23 where we find the Brown Building and the sight of the old Triangle Shirtwaist Factory. In this very building, the deadliest industrial disaster in the history of the city and one of the deadliest in U.S. history occurred.

As it was originally named, the Asch Building was constructed here in 1900 in a fabulous neo-Renaissance style. It was made in the most popular material of the time, iron and steel. These newly manufactured materials were all the rage as they were meant to be “fireproof.” Unlike the brick and wooden buildings of years past that would instantly be destroyed in a large fire, these iron buildings were thought to be able to withstand even the strongest blaze.

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Triangle Shirtwaist Company

These so-called “fireproof” buildings were very attractive to factory owners, especially those in the textile industry. Fires weren’t uncommon at the time, and the price to either rebuild or renovate after a fire was sometimes enough to bankrupt a company. The Triangle Shirtwaist Company manufactured women’s blouses and occupied the top three floors of the Asch Building. Most employees who worked here were young, Jewish, Italian, Russian, and German female immigrants. And although they came to the United States in search of a better life, they were almost immediately taken advantage of upon arrival. Even today, the garment industry’s underpaid labour is a huge ethical issue. And sadly, in the past, things were even worse.

The Life of a Factory Workers in 1911

Workers here were unpaid, overworked, and often as young as 14 years-old. But worst of all, they were subjected to awful working environments. The upper floors of the building had almost no ventilation, and the heat would have been unbearable in the summers. But worse, freezing cold in the winter. Being a textile factory, the rooms were filled with the most flammable objects you could bring together. Tissue paper, linen, cloth, and cotton cuttings were strung all over the floor and even hung from the ceiling above.

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March 25th, 1911

On March 25th, 1911, someone dropped a single match in the northeast corner of the 8th floor. No doubt, the poor freezing soul was just trying to keep warm on a cold winter’s day or perhaps lighting a cigarette as their only means of relaxation. In seconds the floor was aflame. And spread in an instant throughout the entire factory floor, igniting all the scraps that were strewn across the ground. There could be no better environment for fire to spread.

Women on the 8th floor rushed towards the exit doors. Although there were technically two exit stairwells, one was locked shut as a means to prevent theft by the workers. So only one stairwell was able to be used for escape. The remaining stairwell inside was a death trap. Since the building was always overcrowded, well past legal capacity, the escape became a log jam as people scrambled to get out. Many women were crushed to death in the stairwells, long before the fire even reached them.

Falling to their Deaths

It only took a few minutes before the fire spread to the 9th floor. But with the chaos ensuing below, no one could warn those above. When the fire erupted above, some women were able to escape using the freight elevators. But eventually, these elevators became overcrowded and the elevators unusable. When the women on the 9th and 10th floors went to use the stairwells to escape, they found them consumed with fire. The last option for survival was the fire escape on the outside of the building. But unfortunately, the outer stairs were flimsy and poorly anchored to the iron structure. So when these hoards of women tried to scramble down, the heat and extra weight caused the stairs to collapse, and about 20 women fell to their deaths onto the concrete, exactly where you’re standing below.

The women left upstairs who witnessed this horrifying scene could do nothing but wait. They saw the firefighters arrive on the scene, but their ladders could only reach the 6th floor. While they tried to use their hoses to put out the blaze, the flames were too strong to be so easily snuffed out. Many trapped women standing on the edge of the windows were forced to jump. Killed by the nine-storey fall. Many died from smoke inhalation as they could not escape from the fire.

When the fire was finally put out, there were nothing left inside but ashes. But the building’s structure was undamaged. The iron and steel were indeed “fireproof,” but sadly for the victims, this didn’t apply to them. Over 123 women and young girls died in the blaze, along with 23 men.

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The Aftermath

The owners of the factory, Max Blanck and Isaac Harris, managed to escape the fire. But they were not able to escape prosecution for their negligence. After the traumatic deaths of all these women, a rush of protests occurred throughout the city. These resulted in a huge change in legalization and for better safety standards for workers. It even was the catalyst for the creation of the International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union.

Ghosts of the Fire

Today, students report seeing countless ghosts throughout the building. The ninth floor of the building is where the most people died and is, therefore, the most haunted. The phantom screams of women echo from the top three floors late at night. A famous ghostly couple is often seen in a final embrace beside the window. They are seen standing together before jumping to their deaths, hand in hand. There have been ghostly apparations seen fleeing down the corridors, still trying to outrun the fire.

In the stairwells where so many women were met with a locked door, the door handles still seem to shake and jiggle, as if a phantom hand is still trying to get them open. And in another stairwell, the sound of running footsteps is often heard.

Above the elevator, on the 9th floor, there is a mirror that student says reflects the living and the dead. People have reported seeing a woman dressed in Victorian garb staring back at them in the mirror. But when they turn around, there is no one there. Listen carefully as you stand outside in the dark. People say that you can still hear the ghostly crackle of the fire that burns in the memory of this place forever.

#18 W 11th St

Walk north, turning onto 5th Avenue. Continue until you reach 11th Street. Before heading to the stops on 10th Street, we’re going to make a quick stop at #18 West 11th Street. The building stands out amongst the other classical buildings due to its unique appearance. You might not notice it from far away, but as you get closer, you’ll see how the facade of the house is diagonally indented. But it’s not its architectural uniqueness that brings us here today, but the incredible events which took place in 1970.

The Weather Underground

Back then, the house was owned by James Wilkerson. But at the time, he was letting his daughter, Cathy Wilkerson, stay at the property while he was away. Little did he know that his daughter was a prominent member of the Weather Underground group. The Weather Underground was a radical left-wing militant organization. So prolific at the time, it was named as a domestic terrorist group by the FBI. They originally started as a group of students from the Democratic Society. Their goal was to create a revolutionary party to overthrow American imperialism.

But their intentions turned violent in the 70s, and the group started a targeted bombing campaign. It aimed to destroy government buildings and large banks. It was in this house that several group members were set up, building bombs in the basement. No one could have suspected such activity was going on behind an otherwise innocent-looking middle-class brownstone.

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Bomb Explosion

While assembling the bomb, it was accidentally set off, causing an enormous explosion. Two members in the basement were killed instantly, and another outside the room would die from his wounds later that evening. Cathy had just been returning home and, once witnessing the explosion, fled the scene. She avoided capture for more than a decade but eventually surrendered in 1980.

A fascinating twist to the story was that actor Dustin Hoffman lived just next door! When the explosion happened, Hoffman was captured by the newspaper, fleeing his home. Since his house was one of the adjoining houses, it also caught fire. So Hoffman was caught running in and out of his house, carrying large pieces of precious artwork in the hope of saving them from the flames.

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Restoration of the House

The house was left vacant for years, the scars of the deaths that occurred here too fresh for anyone to want to move right in. Architects went about trying to restore the damage to the home. The heritage department prevented any kind of visual renovations to all the other houses on this street as they pre-date 1845. But since this home has been so badly damaged, there was a dire need for repair. The architects didn’t want to simply restore it back to the exact design of the original home. They felt they needed to honour what happened here not just hide it all away.

So they came up with the idea to create these angular and modernist bay windows that seems to cut into the fabric of the building. Almost exploding out of the frame. It was a pretty hotly contested design, but eventually, after time passed, the house was repurchased. And people began to forget the event ever happened. But the angry ghosts of those radical victims who never got to carry out their horrible deeds are known to still wander the streets. The ghostly echoes of the explosion still reverberate in the glass. So listen closely on hauntingly dark and quiet evenings to the sounds of the house that still cries out.

Church of the Ascension

Head back to 5th Avenue and walk down to the intersection of 5th and 10th, where you’ll find the gothic revival-style Church of the Ascension. One of the church’s unique aspects is that even at night, the stained-glass windows are illuminated. Giving the building a haunting effect, glowing brightly in the darkness. But the windows are not just a beautiful aspect of the church, but the spectral reason that brings us here today.

John La Farge

The windows were designed by artists John La Farge. La Farge was an innovative American painter, muralist, and writer, but most famous for his imaginative stained glass windows. After completing the window design, the church Parish was so impressive that they commissioned him to paint an enormous arched mural. This mural would be the central focus of the entire nave. The canvas he used was enormous, almost as wide as the church itself. When he completed the painting, hanging it up inside proved to be a big challenge. According to the legend, when the installers came to hang the mural, it fell off the wall, crashing down to the floor. It’s said that the same moment the mural crashed to the ground, La Farge passed away. As if the two incidents were eerily linked.

La Farge’s Ghost

La Farge lived just down the street at Tenth Street Studio Building. Ever since his death, multiple residents have seen La Farge’s ghost wandering the down the street and into his beloved church. Lights have been turned on, and doors unlocked. Many people have seen his ghostly figure, and he even appeared to people during seances when called upon. Keep an eye out for his shadow in the illuminated stained glass windows as he is frequently seen floating past.

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The House Of Death

Across the street from the church is perhaps one of the most haunted buildings in all of New York. You’d never known it from the classical brownstone’s appearance, looking just the picture of regal New York architecture. The house was built just before the civil war in the 1850s and has barely changed since. But since it is so old, it has seen its fair share of deaths over the years. There are reports of over 22 different ghosts who are said to appear to the residents of the building. All of these chilling happenings lend to the house’s nickname, The House of Death.

Many people believe that traumatic circumstances are the cause of ghostly appearances. But sometimes, even the presence of ghosts can cause these incidents, causing a knock-on effect. Various paranormal investigators who have visited the building have seen the ghost of a young child, an aborted fetus, a gray cat and a lady dressed in white. But the most famous ghost residing here is that of famous write, Mark Twain. A small bronze plaque is located on the outside of the building to mark Twain’s official stay.

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Twain’s Ghost

Mark Twain lived here for only a year in 1900. But even in that short amount of time, he claimed to have experienced some supernatural occurrences. But Twain was a skeptic, but one night, while sitting near the fire, he saw a piece of wood kindling moving all by itself. Floating in the air. He thought it was caused by a rodent and even shot at the wooden log. Blood appeared from the bullet hole, but no rodent was ever found. Despite being a skeptic, the strange occurrences were enough to cause his quick exodus from the building. Twain died ten years later at age 74 in Connecticut.

In 1930, a mother and daughter moved into the house. They almost immediately experienced the first sighting of Twain’s ghost, sitting near the window. He turned to them and said, “My name is Clemens, and I have a problem here. I gotta settle.” Clearly, despite dying in Connecticut, something was bringing Twain back to this site. Something left unfinished.

Jan Bryant Bartell

Years after Twain’s death, the house became home to actress and writer Jan Bryant Bartell. As soon as she moved in, Bartell began to experience paranormal sightings. This includes noises in the walls, and visions of a ghostly woman in white woman seen in the windows. She also would increasingly smell putrid aromas throughout the house. And could never find the source. But worse than anything else, was this constant feeling of a presence nearby. Even when she was alone in the house, she felt like someone was watching. One day, while searching for this presence, she saw the ghostly figure of Twain himself. He was standing on the stairs, dressed in his white suit. Staring straight thru her.

The Steinberg Case

But the most horrible event inside the House of Death was the murder of a helpless 6-year-old girl. In 1987 former attorney Joel Steinberg beat his adopted six-year-old daughter Elizabeth “Lisa” so badly that she fell into a coma. Unfortunately, little Lisa died in hospital a few days later from her injuries. Despite being convicted of manslaughter, at the time in New York State, first-degree murder applied only to those who killed police officers. Or had committed murder while already serving a sentence for a previous murder. So the jury could only convict Steinberg to the maximum penalty of 8 to 25 years in prison.

Despite NEVER claiming any remorse for the murder, Steinberg was released on parole in 2004 and is still living in Harlem. The relatively short stay in prison is an unjust reality compared to the cruelty of his actions. Today, the young girl’s ghost is known to cause the lights on the floor where she was killed to go on and off at various times when no one is home. A sign that the girl is still there, waiting for real justice to be served.

Emma Lazarus House

Just two doors down, at #18, is the Emma Lazarus House. Emma Lazarus is perhaps best known for her poem, The New Colossus. The poem is emblazoned on a pedestal beneath the Statue of Liberty. The poem goes, “Give me you’re tired, your poor/ Your huddled masses yearning to breathe free.” Emma was a talented child right from the jump. Her father, a Jewish immigrant and wealthy sugar merchant, moved into the Italianate-style residence in 1883. Emma couldn’t attend school as a girl, but she was well taught by many private tutors. And when she was just 20 years old, she began writing poems. Some of which were actually published in newspapers all around New York.

Emma was also very outspoken about the rights and struggles of Jewish immigrants. She aimed to help new immigrants when they moved to the city and immersed herself in helping others. Emma never married; perhaps she already felt like she was a mother to many other families. Sadly, she fell ill at only 38 from what we now suspect to be lymphoma. She died shortly after returning home to New York from a European trip. But she never could find a way to leave her beloved home. And her ghost is known to roam the house halls even today. Her figure is often seen walking past the windows at night, looking out at the street below.

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43 W 10th St

Continue walking east along 10th street until you reach #43. This building was the original location of the old Tenth Street Studio. The Tenth Street Studio was La Farge’s original residence. And the place from which his ghost is often thought to emerge at night. Wandering down the street, heading towards the church. So be sure to keep an eye out for him as you pass by.

The Jefferson Market Library

Stepping out from 10th Street onto 6th Avenue, you are immediately overwhelmed by the sight of the most unbelievable architectural wonders of New York City; the Jefferson Market Library. Although it might look like a church, the building was originally designed in 1870 as a Victorian Gothic courthouse. Unlike today, most courthouses of the time housed their prisons inside the same building. The basements of courthouses were where prisoners awaiting trial would be locked away.

By the 1940s, the courthouse was closed, and the building was saved from demolition by being transformed into a public library. But ever since it became a public space, people have seen the ghost of a woman roaming the library halls. Particularly, she loves to lurk around the fire watcher’s balcony windows and wave to people below. If you spot her, try waving back. Perhaps she is just lonely and yearning for someone to give her back some affection. Many people speculate that she is the ghost of a wrongly accused prisoner who may have died in prison. And who today continues to wander the building, yearning for justice.

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Gay Street

Turn down 6th Avenue, and walk south for one block until you reach Christopher Street. Head east down Christopher Street until you reach the tiny, tucked away lane marked “Gay Street.” Gay Street is one of the most iconic streets in Greenwich Village. But despite what you might immediately think when looking at a street called “gay” at the time when the street was named, the word had nothing to do with homosexuality. It was actually named after the land owner, R. Gay, who was given ownership of the land in 1775. The narrow lane was originally used as a stable alley for horses. But in 1833, the lane was widened, and houses began to be built up around it. Only by coincidence was Gay Street, located in the heart of the Gay and Lesbian neighbourhood that grew in the 1970s and 80s.

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Ghosts of Gay Street

But the haunted nature of the street dates back even before the street had a proper name. Back when the area was still a part of the Dutch Colony, it was owned by Wouter Van Twiller. Twiller built a morgue and brewery in this very spot. As it was then on the city’s outskirts, these two smelly establishments were perfectly suited to be on the fringes. But from day one, death seemed to hang heavy in the streets. With local residents claiming to see the ghosts of the corpses fresh from the morgue still wandering the streets.

The Gay Street Phantom

In the early 20th century, Gay Street became a popular spot for the city’s black residents, many of whom were musicians. And with great music came great parties! During prohibition, Gay Street was a popular spot for speakeasies, as the street was not only off the beaten path but also quite tucked away from the main roads. The parties of the 1920s roared down the narrow lane. And one of the partygoers seems to have never left. They call him the Gay Street Phantom. The Phantom is frequently seen walking down the street dressed in his dapper black cloak and large top hat.

12 Gay Street, Manhattan

The quaint brick townhouse with pale blue shutters at #12 Gay Street was once home to one of the most famous speakeasies; the Pirate’s Den. The Pirate’s Den was opened during prohibition as a theatrical buccaneer-themed establishment and a popular hang-out for then-local Mayor Jimmy Walker. Before he was a mayor, Walker actually wrote the music for broadway shows and his love for the theatre never waned. And neither did his love for chorus girls. Despite being a married man, he became so obsessed with one particular Ziegfeld showgirl, Betty Compton. He was so enamoured with her that he set her up with a small apartment inside #12 where she could live as his mistress and eventually be his wife.

Today, the house is rumoured to be home to Walker’s ghost. The ghost is known to still walks about the house, the upper levels’ floorboards creaking at night when no known is at home on those levels. His spirit must have clung to these streets, wishing to return to a better time when life was all about fun and frivolity. Walker’s time as mayor was marred with scandals and corruption. Life was easier when he was just a broadway tunes writer.

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Marie’s Crisis Café

Walking west, turn down Grove Street to #59, where we find Marie’s Crisis Café. Marie’s Crisis Cafe is a lively piano bar built atop the site of Thomas Paine’s home. Thomas Paine was an English-born political activist. Despite his English origins, he was one of the most influential writers who drove the ideals of the American Revolution into the hearts of the people of New York City. One of his most famous pieces of writing was called the “Crisis Papers,” hence the bar’s name. Shortly after the American Revolution in 1809, Paine died inside his beloved home. Despite all his work to fight for the revolution, his oppositional opinions on institutionalized religion drove him to be ostracized by his peers. And sadly, only six people attended his funeral.

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After Paine’s death, the area around the house fell into disrepute, and the home was transformed into a popular brothel. It wasn’t until the late 1850s, during prohibition, that the building served as a speakeasy. After prohibitions were dismantled, the bar continued its operations, this time more public-facing. It continues to be one of the most entertaining places in town. With hundreds of people gathering nightly to sing Broadway tunes around a grand piano. Paine’s ghost is known to still haunt the building. But happily, unlike at the end of his life when he drove everyone away, today he is surrounded by dozens of friendly faces inside Marie’s Crisis Café.

One if by Land, Two if by Sea

Walk across 7th Street, which cuts diagonally across the village. Take a turn east down Barrow street towards the restaurant named One if by Land, Two if by Sea. The building now houses one of New York’s most illustrious and elegant restaurants, but when it was first built in 1790, it was used as a horse stable. But not just any stable; it was the stable house for none other than now star of the Broadway stage, Aaron Burr. The current restaurant owners pay tribute to the American politician by hanging horseshoes, hitching posts and other antiques they found within the house on the restaurant’s walls.

Aaron Burr’s Home in New York

Aaron Burr owned a swath of land just a few streets west at #17 Commerce Street, but while that home was being built, he moved into the carriage house with his daughter after his wife died. His daughter, Theodosia, was the apple of his eye. And the two spent many good years together inside this quaint home. But sadly, after that fateful dual against Alexander Hamilton, which ended in Hamilton’s untimely death, Burr fell sharply out of the popular political circles in New York. Burr was forced to sell off much of his property, including the carriage house.

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After its sale, the house was converted into an engine house for the next-door firehouse. And like many of the buildings we’ve been to throughout our Greenwich Village ghost tour, in the 1890s, the house was (you guessed it) transformed into a brothel and speakeasy. This building was especially useful as a speakeasy because it housed an underground passageway. The passage provided access to the shores of the Hudson River. This meant it was easy to sneak in and out of illegal goods. It wasn’t until the 1970s that the home was purchased as a restaurant and opened back up to the public.

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The Ghosts of Aaron and Theodosia Burr

But even after all this passage of time and changing faces of the building, Aaron Burr and his beloved daughter are known to meet here in the afterlife. It was here that they both shared so many warm memories, and it is no surprise that they would want to return. Theodosia also suffered a terrible fate. On her way home to New York, the ship she sailed home in disappeared. Many people think pirates kidnapped the girl; others believe the ship sank in a terrible storm. Whatever the case, her body was never recovered, which drove Burr into a despair from which he could never rebound.

Theodosia’s ghost is known to wear a long black gown and stand at the top of the stair, looking down at the guests below. She is also known to go up to some women inside and pull at their beautiful earrings. Perhaps trying to acquire them for herself.

Burr, on the other hand, is perhaps slightly more angry at all these people seemingly taking up residence inside “his” house. Waiters have been known to be shoved down the stairs late at night or see plates flying across the walls as if thrown by spectral hands. Lights are known to flicker on and off after the restaurant has closed. Picture frames are often found off kilter in the morning when the manager opens the restaurants despite no one being inside.

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Chumley’s

Continue walking west along Barrow Street, turning north on Bedford Street to #86 Bedford Street. Here we find ourselves outside the blank stone facade of what was once of the most popular bars in the city; Chumley’s. Long before it hosted such notable figures as Ernest Hemingway, John Steinbeck and F. Scott Fitzgerald, the building served as the community’s blacksmith back in 1831. It wasn’t until 1922 that Leland Stanford Chumley converted the building into his covert speakeasy.

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86’ed

There isn’t even a remnant of any old signage indicating where the old bar once was because the original speakeasy had to be as low profile as possible. Even after prohibition was abolished, they kept up the tradition, and only those “in the know” could find the bar. It is rumoured that the term “86’ed” actually comes from life at Chumley’s. During prohibition, the speakeasies paid off police certain officers to ensure they would be informed about any raids in the areas. The officers would call the bartender and tell them to “86 your customers” as a code word to get them to evacuate the customer before police arrived. They used the word “86” since back then, the address of #86 Bedford was actually the back door to the bar. The primary entrance was located on the other side, in the Pamela Courtyard.

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The Ghosts of Chumley’s

The first person known to die inside the fabled bar was writer Clinton Curtis. He was involved in a bar brawl that resulted in his throat being cut by an angry seaman. The cause of the brawl? A rather intense game of chess, of all things! Curtis’ ghost frequents the bar, still looking for chess partners to play with.

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After Leland Chumley’s death, the bar was inherited by his wife, Henrietta. But Henrietta fell victim to the call of the alcohol that flowed so freely inside the bar. She died in 1960, sitting inside her favourite booth. Her ghost is still said to haunt that very same booth today. Still drunk as a skunk, her spirit is often heard knocking over shelves, smashing glasses and even drinking up half-empty beers left on the tables.

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Chumley’s was forced to close in 2007 after a load-bearing wall collapsed inside. After extensive renovations, it reopened shortly in 2016. But was forced to close its doors once more during the Covid pandemic. The thirsty ghosts still reside inside, awaiting Chumley’s triumphant return, when they can dine with the living once more!

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The Church of St. Luke in the Fields

Crossing over Grove Street towards Hudson Street, you find yourself face to face with the rather quaint exterior of the Church of St. Luke in the Fields. The church dates back to 1820, when it was built in the image of an old English village church by the local community around here. The church was named after Saint Luke, the patron saint of physicians and surgeons. 

Saint Luke

As mentioned when visiting Washington Square Park, Greenwich Village was a safe refuge from yellow fever that plagued the inner city. So the church was built in St. Luke’s name in the hopes he would protect this new community. Later, in the 1980s, at the height of the AIDS crisis, the church once more did right by its namesake. They created the AIDS Project, which provided Saturday dinners and weekend teas to tens of thousands of people afflicted by the disease.

Ghost of Clement Clarke Moore

The most famous ghostly resident whose grave can be found in the cemetery is of Clement Clarke Moore. You might not immediately recognize the name, but you will know the story he penned, “Twas the Night Before Christmas.” Moore even first read the poem to the congregation here at the church. Moore loved his church. He was the only child of a wealthy family, so he spent much of his fortune funding the church. He even used the wood from his orchard to help rebuild the church after a fire.

After his death, many claimed to see his spirit inside the church every Sunday. But Moore is the definition of a “friendly ghost.” Many liken his personality to that of Santa Claus himself. Many have seen his spectre singing here at Christmas along with the carolers, as the festive season was always his favourite time of year. People have also reportedly heard the organ being played late into the night. Moore banging out Christmas tunes which echo throughout the empty nave. So listen closely as you pass by to see if you can hear him at play.

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White Horse Tavern

Continue north along Hudson Street towards the old White Horse Tavern. The White Horse Tavern touts itself as the second oldest bar in New York, opening in 1880 under the name Longshoremen’s Bar. But the tavern wouldn’t fall into the history books until the 1950s and 60s, when it became a popular hangout for New York City’s most prolific writers and musicians. Being frequented by Jack Kerouac, Allen Ginsberg, Norman Mailer, Bob Dylan and Jim Morrison.

The Ghost of Dylan Thomas

But most notably for our purposes, the White Horse Tavern is where people often see the ghost of poet Dylan Thomas. When Thomas was visiting New York, he came to this tavern and drank over 18 shots of whiskey. It was a triumphant record for him. He later that night returned to the Chelsea Hotel, bragging about his accomplishment at the famed White Horse Tavern.

But that would be one of the last happy memories for Thomas, as he was suffering from a severe lung infection. Only days after visiting the White Horse Tavern, he died at St. Vincent’s Hospital. Thomas’ ghost is known to return to the tavern, sitting at the bar, sneaking shots of whiskey. Perhaps trying his best to beat his own record. He even has a favourite corner table where guests have most frequently seen his spirit. This is a great place to stop in for a drink to see if you can spot him for yourself.

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Waverly Inn

The last stop on our tour can be found after a short walk east along West 11th Street. At #16 Bank St., we see the picturesque brick exterior housing the old Waverly Inn. The house was initially built in 1884 and served as a tavern and a bordello. Surprise, surprise. After the original tavern closed, the building was converted into a carriage house for the wealthy owners of the homes nearby.

But, the 1920s prohibition era brought the saloon back to life, reopening as a “teahouse.” Teahouses were the nickname many people gave to keep speakeasies a secret. It was one of the most upscale speakeasies of the time. It was even frequented by American poets Robert Frost and Edna St. Vincent May. In 2006, the restaurant was purchased by Vanity Fair editor-in-chief Graydon Carter. Carter would transform the restaurant from a classic tavern to full-on 5-star dining with a wait list full of celebrity names!

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The Firebug Ghost

But the most frequent guest at the Waverly Inn is their seasoned spectre. Many reports see the apparition of a man dressed in a 1920s-style waistcoat and black top hat. He is often seen lurking in the shadows around the inn’s many old fireplaces. But he doesn’t just like to look; many people have nicknamed the spectre the “firebug” ghost as he is known to light the tinders left in the fireplaces when no one is looking. The fire pokers are seen moving as if by phantom hands as he tends to his beloved fires around the building.

Unfortunately, he is not always so careful with the fires he lights. In 1997, a fire broke out in the middle of the night inside the restaurant. After firefighters arrived and put out the blaze, they could find no sign of accelerants to have started the fire. No electrical outlet had sparked, and there were no combustibles on the scene that could have started the fire. They were left totally perplexed, and yet to everyone who had seen the firebug ghost before, they knew it must have been him! Since 1997, more fire alarms and sprinkler systems have been installed to ensure that whatever he gets up to in the middle of the night doesn’t cause an end to this historical establishment.

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This brings us to the end of our Greenwich Village Ghost Tour. I really hope you learned something new along the way, and the stories we told sent a shiver down your spine. Please let me know in the comments if you were lucky enough to see one of the resident hauntings on your city tour. Or any other spectres you came across on your trip to the Big Apple.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Ultimate Self-Guided Greenwich Village Ghost Tour, New York City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

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But be warned, there are some SPOILERS BELOW! While this post isn’t super detailed involving the show’s plot, there are some spoilers, so if you want to come in 100% free of any info, don’t read on! I have a spoiler-free guide as well so head on over there if you want a little introduction without the spoilers. But if you want to know a little bit more about the layout of the hotel and maybe where you want to spend your time, this is the post for you!

Guide to the McKittrick Hotel

1. Arriving at Reception
2. Manderley Bar
3. The Elevator
4. Becoming the Spirits
5. The Layout of the Hotel
   • Basement: The Ballroom & Cemetery
   • 1st Floor: Duncan's Residence
   • 2nd Floor: The McKittrick Hotel Lobby
   • 3rd Floor: The Residences and Graveyard
   • 4th Floor: Village of Gallow Green
   • 5th Floor: King James Sanitorium & Birch Forest
   • 6th Floor: The Secret Floor

Arriving at Reception

After entering the hotel and dropping off all your worldly possessions at the coat check, you head to the reception desk. There you will get checked in with your ID to match the name on the reservation. The show really starts here as the actor at the reception desk is really pulling out all the strings to imitate a 1930s front desk clerk. They will give you and your group members a playing card. This is the only ticket you will receive for the show so keep it close. Once inside, different card numbers will be called to indicate it’s your time to enter the hotel and the show.

Then a quiet valet, dressed in all black, will guide you inside. You walk up a set of stairs and through a series of narrow hallways that are almost pitch black. I honestly thought for a moment I was going to get lost as I could barely see what was in front of me. Finally, you see a red glowing light ahead of you, as you enter the Manderley Bar.

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Manderley Bar

The Manderley Bar is a loud and happening place to be, not at all like the quiet and creepy hallways we just passed through. The room looks like a speakeasy from the 1930s, and the art deco jazz-themed stage is quite dazzling. The stage is set for a three-piece band, and a singer will walk on stage every now and then to entertain the guests waiting to enter the show.

There is a bar where you can get yourself a drink, but unless you entered late, you probably won’t have time to drink the whole thing. There are other guests milling around the bar, and every so often, you will spot someone dressed in 1930s attire, with a fringed dress or slick-backed hair. These actors interact with each other and are there to set the mood and adjust your internal clocks back in time, to the 1930s. Hearing their voices is so strange considering that once you enter the elevator and head further into the hotel, there is little to no speaking at all. Perhaps the juxtaposition of these two environments is meant to shock your system even more.

The Elevator

When your card number is called, you head over to the doors to the elevator. Before going inside, you will be given your Bauta masks and read the rules of the game. No talking, no cellphone use, keep your mask on the entire time and follow the crew’s guidance (they will be wearing black masks). The bellhop guides the group into the extra-large elevator, and it begins to squeak up the shaft. As you travel, the bellhop gives you an excellent piece of advice, “fortune favours the bold.“

When the elevator first stops, the very first person at the back will be let out. Everyone else is held back by the bellhop, and the doors of the elevator close behind them. The rest of us left on the elevator are told that this experience is indeed a solo one, as so brashly demonstrated to us. It is best experienced alone, follow your desires and you will get the most from the experience. The rest of the group is let out on the next floor, and everyone is left to explore the hotel on their own.

Becoming the Spirits

In the film ‘Rebecca‘, from which the name “Manderley” and some of the Hitchcockian influences come from, one of the characters says, “Like all dreamers, I was possessed all of a sudden with supernatural powers and passed like a spirit through the barrier before me.” For our journey, the elevator is our entry into the dream realm, where we become the spirits and the barriers between time, life and death all seem to fade away.

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The Layout of the Hotel

There are over 100 different rooms spread across the old warehouse, which has been converted into the McKittrick Hotel. Two sets of stairs are located on the east and west sides of the buildings. These are your access points to explore the other floors. There are bathrooms available on the 5th-floor and in the Manderley Bar (on the 2nd level), and trust me, you more than likely will need to use one, even just to splash a bit of cold water on your face to wake you up from what seems like a dream.

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Basement: The Ballroom & Cemetery

The ballroom in the basement is where the largest gathering of the characters will take place. They gather there as a large group twice during their loops. Any character you follow throughout the performance will lead you here at the end of the show as well. At the beginning of the show, we come here to see a ball in celebration of King Duncan‘s battle, and at the end of the show, a banquet takes place where the dark truth is revealed. Off the ballroom, you’ll find a small changing room, a chapel and a little crypt. 

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1st Floor: Duncan’s Residence

The 1st floor is where you will find King Duncan‘s study, chapel and bedroom. King Duncan isn’t with us for very long, so this floor is pretty small. The mezzanine is also located up here, where you can look out onto the Ballroom below. 

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2nd Floor: The McKittrick Hotel Lobby

The 2nd Floor is where you’ll find the McKittrick Hotel lobby. Dominating the room is a large 1930s-style check-in desk. In front of the desk is a lush sitting room with a piano set against the far wall. Go into the telephone booths and pick up the phones as there is sometimes a surprise on the other end. You can find the lobby’s porter in here sitting occasionally with the three witches.

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Throughout the entire floor, you’ll start to take notice of the spiritual talismans which seem to pop up all over the place. There are also markers of time, which are a constant in the set dressing, but they never move, as if to insinuate we are trapped in a loop (which we are).

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The Altar

On the other side of the lobby is a small dining room. Against the back wall is a huge pile of salt with a giant taxidermied goat sitting atop it. On the wall is a cabinet filled with a series of smaller salt piles with crossed forks and knives resembling a crucifix. Salt is a symbol of protection against evil and many characters come here in the hopes of escaping the evil which infects the hotel.

3rd Floor: The Residences and Graveyard

The 3rd Floor is where we find a series of residences of various characters from the Macbeth storyline. The Macduff family residence is located on the 3rd Floor. Their rooms are small and cozy, filled to the brim with spiritual trinkets and talismans. In their quarters, you will also find a baby nursery. Walking inside, you’ll see right away it is one of the creepiest rooms in the building, filled with floating headless baby dolls. Take a closer look in the mirror. In the reflection, in the mirror, you’ll see not the room you are standing in, but a completely different set of horrors. This is a bit of theatrical trickery and just one of the ways in which the McKittrick hotel is always trying to fool you.

Lady and Lord Macbeth’s Apartment

On the other side of the floor, we find a supersized room occupied by Lady and Lord Macbeth. Stacked from floor to ceiling on one side are rows and rows of dressers and drawers. The dancers use these stacks of furniture to prance on top of like they are cats, dancing on a hot tin roof. At one end is a grandiose bed and in the center of the room is a claw-foot porcelain bathtub. The bathtub is where one of the most powerful scenes takes place so if you notice one of the actors encircling it chances are you’ll want to stay.

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Opposite the dresser wall, are a series of windows looking out onto the small orangerie and walled garden on the other side. Walking out there you will stumble upon a large graveyard. The room is lit with pale, blue moonlight and filled with ruins and statues. The floor is covered in dirt which crunches are you walk through it, echoing as you go through the silence. Only the fearless are brave enough to explore this as it is one of the darkest parts of the hotel. I loved the scene Macbeth performed in here so the brave are truly rewarded for exploring around this place.

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4th Floor: Village of Gallow Green

This was my favourite floor, and I probably spent the most time here. This floor is laid out like an entire village, called Gallow Green. The name “Gallow Green” comes from the Paisley Witch Trails, which were another thematic inspiration woven into the threads of ‘Sleep No More’. The Gallow Green was the place where the accused witches were executed. A very haunting name to give to an entire village.

The main street is dark and cobblestoned with shop fronts and houses all along either side. Most of the doors and shopfront can be entered at some point throughout the show. If you find something locked, look a little closer or come back later, and you might find it open.

In Gallow Green, you can find the taxidermist’s shop, Malcolm’s detective agency, a hidden funeral parlour, a speakeasy, a candy shop, an apothecary, and a tailor’s shop. Also, in Gallow Green are several apartments that belong to the residences. Some of them hiding secret passageways to other parts of the street. 

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Paisley Sweets

The Paisley candy shop is a favourite for any of those who stop in on it. Inside the backlit shelves filled with glass jars are many traditional British candies. Everything from pear drops, aniseed balls, toffee and humbugs can be found here. The room is even scented with caramel perfume to lure in the audience. Feel free to open the jars and munch on the treats but again, be respectful and don’t just take them all. I remember throughout the show hearing people munching on sweets, and wondering where these were coming from. When I finally found the sweets shop, it was closed, so if you find it open, definitely head inside for a quick pick-me-up. The name “Paisley Sweets” comes once more from the Paisley witch trials.

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Hecate’s Bar

The 4th floor is also the place where you will find Hecate’s replica of the Manderley Bar. Hecate is the supreme witch controlling the residences of Gallow Green. This red lit room is a haunting and ruined replica of the Manderley Bar on the 2nd floor. This room is so large, almost suspiciously large. Here is where one of the most shocking scenes takes place with many cast members, drawing a massive group in with them. If you hear techno music blaring from any other part of the 4th floor, head on over here as quick as you can!

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Nearby to Hecate‘s bar is her apothecary. This is where the great witch stores all her herbs and medicinal goods. You can really smell the aroma of the dried herbs calling your name from even a few doors down. The woodsy scent of moss and freshly turned earth, drawing you into her lair. 

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Taxidermy Office

One of the creepiest rooms on the floor has got to be the Taxidermy Office. This room is filled with stuffed animals peering out almost menacingly at you. In the dim light, their eyes seem to follow you. The drawers in this room are an endless treasure trove you can really get lost in. The stuffed birds found all over the hotel are perhaps a reference to this line in Macbeth, “all my pretty chickens and their dam / At one fell swoop,“. The quote is spoken by Macduff regarding the tragic murder of his family. Taxidermied birds are also a vital piece of set decoration and metaphor seen in the Hitchcock film Vertigo.

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The Speakeasy

Taking up the majority of the right side of the street is a ramshackle speakeasy and pool room. The bar is covered floor to ceiling in cardboard boxes and old bloody playing cards are pinned to the walls. A few of the most fantastic dance sequences between the boys take place in this space and well worth exploring when you come across it.

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5th Floor: King James Sanitorium & Birch Forest

This floor, which some people call the “hospital,” is in actuality the King James Sanitorium. A lunatic asylum filled with some of the creepiest elements of the show. There is a waiting room, a padded cell, a large ward, a bathroom (for the audience members) and a small office. The largest room is called the “ghost infirmary,” where you find eight wrought iron beds placed against the walls. Although no one stays in these beds for very long the nurses tend to them like they are filled with residences.

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Above each of the beds is a crucifix mounted on the peeling white bricks. Every bed is paired with patient charts which you can flip through to discover hidden clues and secrets. The office across the hall is filled with hair samples and hundreds of additional charts. Although this floor is typically not very active, that almost makes it all the more spooky since walking around the silent hospital feels like entering an abandoned building.

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The Birch Forest

The other side of the floor contains a maze-like a birch forest. Wandering through it, you will find a large wrought-iron gate that is padlocked throughout different parts of the show. Towards the back of the maze, there is a wooden hut where one of the characters hides.

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