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Location & Access

Letna Park is located on the Letna Hill, just above the Vlatava River’s embankments on the northern edges of the city.  The best way to reach the park is on foot. From the Old Town, head along Mikulášská, over Mánes Bridge, north along Pod Bruskou to our first stop on the tour. The walk is a straightforward 20-minutes and gives you some beautiful views along the way. You can also take the tram to Chotkovy sady station on either lines 2 or 18. To check the most updated timetables, check out this website.

History

The word “leten” from which the park gets its name means “summer camp.” Ever since the middle ages, people would gather from nearby military camps to relax in the natural vineyards and gardens once located here. The land was developed in the 19th century into a recreation area for the citizens of Prague. During the Velvet Revolution, the park found itself as the meeting point for over 750,000 protestors, who rallied against the communist government. 

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How Long to Spend Here

Walking across the park from end to end takes about 30 minutes, but since there are so many little places to stop and explore along the way, I’d advise scheduling a few hours to explore. You’ll find yourself swept away by the natural oasis which greets you here, and feeling rushed while in such a tranquil place just feels wrong.

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The Kramář’s Villa

Start your tour of the park at the western edge, near Kramář’s Villa. This is the official residence of the Prime Minister of the Czech Republic. While the building was built in 1914, it is interesting to see how the structure resembles the White House but with a distinctively Czech spin!

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Hanau Pavilion

One of the main reasons to make the trek out to this park is to see the Hanau pavilion. This building on the edge of the park looks like a minature fairytale castle. The pavilion is made to resemble a neo-baroque palace complete with fantastical ironwork, tall turrets, lanterns, dormer windows and more! Letna Park was built in 1891 during Prague’s first Global General Exhibition, or World’s Fair. The Hanau pavilion was donated by the Prince of Hanau to show off the works of the Hanau’s Metalworks Company’ from Komárov. Today, the pavilion is a beautiful restaurant where people can dine inside a stunning interior. Once you are finished eating head outside and enjoy the pavillion’s views over the city of Prague.

Statues

Throughout the park, you’ll find various statues or art installations dotted around. Although the park isn’t by any means one of the most manicured and artful gardens in the city, there are still these elements of decoration, which make exploring it all the more interesting.

Lookout Point

Walk eastward, along the southern edge of the park, and you will come upon one of the most incredible views over the Vltava River and the city of Prague. The views you get from this park are truly spectacular as its located at a higher vantage point than when inside the city itself.

Prague Metronome 

Rising up from out of the hillside, you’ll see a massive mountain of stones, which holds up a supersized metronome. Despite its magnified size, the metronome itself doesn’t appear large enough to require such a hefty stone base. And this is because it wasn’t the original occupier of this giant stone plinth.

In 1955, a massive monument to Joseph Stalin was erected here when the Czech Republic found itself under the Soviet Empire’s control. The statue was enormous and dominated the park’s skyline, with Stalin’s face staring down at the city below. Stalin’s imposing figure weighed 17,000 tonnes and required 235 granite blocks to support the weight. It ended up costing the city 140 million crowns! At the time of its construction, it was the largest group sculpture in Europe. The statue was destroyed in 1962 and was replaced with the Prague Metronome.

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About the Metronome

The metronome is 23-meters tall and was built in 1991 to mark the 100th anniversary of the General Czechoslovak Exhibition of 1891. The metronome was constructed with a kinetic mechanism, and although it doesn’t appear to move continuously, it still does works. Below the metronome is a plaque which reads, “In time, all thing pass...’. This is meant as a reminder to the people of Prague who lived under Stalin’s puritanical rule that although the memory of that dark time may still be there, time passes and things change, hopefully for the better.

Over the years, the area behind the metronome has turned into a skateboarding park, and young people from all over the city come to skate, drink and meet up with their friends. Many parts of the stone wall have been painted with graffiti over time, although this seems in keeping with the spirit of rebellion of the park.

Cukrárna Alchymista

If you’re looking for one of the most charming places to get a bite to eat, head just outside the park over to Cukrárna Alchymista. This cafe feels like dining inside a cozy cottage in the middle of the city. The food on offer like being served a home-cooked meal by your grandma. The restaurant specializes in some decadent desserts. The best place to enjoy them is out in the backyard garden, under the lush greenery.

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Letna Park Carousel

Heading back into the park, walk down to the Letná Carousel or Letenský kolotoč. This is Europe’s oldest floored-carousel, built-in 1892. But today, it remains boarded up as the mechanisms have long since fallen out of order, and it requires a significant amount of repairs to get up and running. The horses used inside the carousel were given real horse hair hides and manes, making them almost eerily lifelike! The carousel was operated by a hand crank and was initially located in Vinohrady. Although the carousel has been boarded up, the beautiful building it is housed is still stunning to look at as this renovation is the first of many in its restoration.

Letná Mansion

Steps from the carousel, you’ll find the Letná Mansion. This grand chateau is located in the area where Prague’s old church vineyards would have been discovered. In 1891 the neo-renaissance building was constructed to house a restaurant for visitors to enjoy refreshments while wandering the peaceful orchards. Even hundreds of years ago, visitors were coming here to escape the city.

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Letná Beer Garden

By far, the most popular sport in the park is the vast outdoor Letná Beer Garden. The simple rows of communal tables are located under the trees right along the park’s edge, providing guests with a panoramic view of the city below. Locals of all ages, and a few knowing tourists, gather in the beer gardens throughout the year, joyfully filling the park with the sound of laughter and merry conversation.

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Local Czech beer on draft will run you merely $3 USD, so you can really get a lot for a little here. There is also a small bistro nearby where you can sample traditional Czech food along with your beer!

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Bruselský Pavilion

The easternmost point in the park is dominated by the modernist Bruselský Pavilion. This pavilion was designed in 1958 and made famous by its appearance at EXPO 58 in Brussels. After the exposition in Brussels, it was brought here to Letná park. The architects F. Cubr, J. Hrubý and Z. Pokorný designed the building to be modular. It could be erected and dismantled as required. The glass and steel materials used in its creation were a popular aesthetic of the time. Despite being over 70 years old, it looks like it was plucked from the future. The building ended up winning the Grand Prize for the best pavilion in 1958.

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Čech Bridge

To finish the tour, let’s head to the Čech Bridge. This spectacular art nouveau bridge, built-in 1905, connects Holešovice and the Old Town. Walking down from the park, you are lead towards the most grandiose set of stairs, usually covered in graffiti. On the other side of the road are a series of angels atop two tall columns, beaconing you towards them. These sculptures were made by sculptors Klusáček, Wurzel, Popp and Amort. These designers were passionate about creating the bridge with strong aesthetics, and today it is the only Art Nouveau style bridge in the Czech Republic.

I love the view you get crossing this bridge. You have both the Old Town and Lesser Quarter spread out in front of you to your right. River cruise boats float up and down the river here, their residence sticking their heads out the window to get their first look at the city. As you continue walking, you can see Prague Castle begin to poke its head out above the trees. This is a great spot to end the tour while you stand and admire the path you just took to get here.

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While you might not find this park on many top ten lists, it’s a great way to explore one of the more ubiquitous parts of the city which isn’t just there for the tourists!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post How to Escape the Crowds in Prague, a Guide to Letna Park first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Access

This Zen temple is located along Kyoto’s Eastern mountains. You can easily access the Pavillion by bus on #5, 17, or 100 from Kyoto Station. The ride takes about 35-40 minutes and costs 230 yen one way. The Silver Pavillion is located along the Philosopher’s Path, so combining this visit with that one is a great way to spend a relaxing morning.

Hours & Admission

Ginkakuji is open from 8:30 am to 5:00 pm March to November and from 9:00 am to 4:30 pm from December to February. There are no closing days, so even during the holidays, you can still visit. Admission into the Pavilion is 500 yen.

History

The Silver Pavillion was built in 1482 for the Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa. It was made for him to spend his retirement in a serene and relaxing environment. The architectural designs of the temple are significant as they are one of the best representations of Higashiyama architecture of the Muromachi period. Unfortunately, the Shogun only had the chance to spend a few years here as he passed away in 1490. After his death, the villa was converted into a Zen temple for the people of Kyoto.

Why is it called the “Silver” Pavillion

Although it is called the “Silver” pavilion, surprisingly enough, there was never any silver anywhere to be found. Initially, the main building was supposed to be coated in silver, just as its sister building, the Golden Pavillion, was covered in gold. But the Shogun ran out of money during construction, and that great silver architectural icon was never to be. But the designers would not give up so easily. They painted the main building with a dark coat of paint so that at night the black paint would reflect the moonlight, giving the building the appearance of glowing silver in the light.

Architecture

The Silver Pavillion was built by combining two distinct architectural styles, seamlessly blending Japan’s art history. Each shingle on the roof is made from Japanese cypress trees. Bamboo nails secured the bark, as metal nails would rust and ruin the wood. Inside the Pavillion is a precious statue of “Kannon,” the Buddhist goddess of mercy, to whom the Shogun would pray each night.

Although this is not viewable to the public, you can imagine how important it would have been to be housed in such a grandiose place. Despite the pavilion’s relative simplicity, a profoundly artistic aesthetic can be found here. The Japanese have perfected the ideology of grace in restraint, and this is one of their best examples.

Entry

When I arrived, I was one of the first people to get there. Only a few other couples were huddled outside the gates, waiting to get inside. Before letting people in, one of the caretakers sprinkled water on the stones along the entry. This wasn’t to clean the stones but to spiritually cleanse them. Just as people wash their hands before entering a temple, they do the same for the grounds themselves.

The Silver Pavilion is the first thing you’ll see when you come inside, as it is the largest building on the property. A circular path will lead you through the grounds, and as you go, you will have the chance to see the pavilion from all different angles. Discovering something unique, something new or something amazing as you do so.

The Sand Garden

The bright white sands of the Sand Garden are among the first things you’ll see upon beginning your tour around the grounds. It is better known as the “Sea of Silver Sands.” In the centre of the meticulously manicured rows of sand is a grey cone called the “Moon Viewing Platform,” symbolizing Mount Fuji.

Since we were there so early in the morning, we saw the caretakers raking up the sand and placing it carefully in pristine rows. They would gently pick up fallen leaves, find rogue stones out of place, and delicately put them back where they belonged.

Hondo

Beside the sand garden lies the “Hondo” (the main hall). Although this building cannot be entered, you can still admire the exquisite wood carvings, dainty sliding doors, and paintings on the exterior walls. This building was where Yoshimasa studied the art of the tea ceremony. He was obsessed with creating the ideal setting and process for a tea ceremony and spent his retirement perfecting this performance. The tea room he designed would become the prototype for all future tea ceremony spaces. The doors are often left open a sliver, enough to peek inside to see some of the greatness he created.

Togudo

Beside the main hall is the Togudo. This was the Shogun’s study. The entire room was covered in tatami mats to create a comfortable zen-like environment for people to come and meditate.

Moss Garden

After the study, you head up the small hill which backs out on the grounds. This path will lead you to the moss garden. This garden was supposedly designed by the great Japanese landscape architect Sōami.

Inside the moss garden, you feel as if the world has disappeared. A little steam dribbles down the hill. Tiny bridges arch over the stream, and you can wander around, studying all the various plants which decorate the landscape.

The Reflective Pond

The reflective pond sits beside the moss garden. Manicured trees grow around it, reflecting into the glass-like water. The bright green colours of the trees are so vibrant it’s hard to believe it’s real.

I was the first one to venture into this area, and one of the caretakers was still walking around the paths, cleansing the pathways with holy water.

Lookout Point

From the back of the moss garden, a set of stairs will lead you up to the hill and towards a lookout point. At the top of the path, you can see over the tops of the buildings below and throughout Kyoto. The view is stunning, and even for people who might not be interested in the temple, this view will surely entice you to come and visit this magical place.

On the way down the path, you finish the circular walkway around the grounds and will once more pass by the Silver Pavillion. This is your last chance to look at it, this time a little more closely. See if you can spot any hidden details with which the architects have littered the exterior.

If you’ve never understood what ‘zen’ is, this is the place to find it. Zen is derived from the Chinese word ‘Chán,’ derived from the Indian practice of dhyāna or “meditation.” Zen is about self-control and finding insight into the nature of things. While it can be hard to make a quiet space in your hear when you’re travelling, try your best when you’re here to get in touch with that aspect of zen; sit in silence for a few minutes and reflect on the feeling of the world around you and be grateful for this amazing journey you are on.

What is your favourite place in the world to find Zen? Let me know in the comments!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post Guide to Ginkaku-ji, The Silver Pavilion Kyoto first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.