What is ‘Lisbon Under Stars’?

Lisbon Under Stars is called an “immersive and multidisciplinary spectacle” which aims to tell the story of Lisbon’s history through a mesmerizing visual performance. The entire show takes place inside the ruins of the Carmo Convent. But it doesn’t just happen inside the ruins, but the show is actually projected onto them! The multimedia projections are cast onto the remains of the convent walls and arches. Covering them like a painting, but one which moves bends and turns the space from a two-dimensional surface into a three dimensional trip back in time.

The 600 years of history steeped within the city of Lisbon is brought to life through these projections and told through the eyes of the convent itself. The convent is given a personality and embodied by a single female dancer. All the dancers were also filmed, and their performances have been woven into the multimedia projections. The dancer’s expressions and movements set against the powerful historical events help convey to the audience, wordlessly, the feelings and emotions the city was thrown into during those times. The visuals help us see through their eyes what it must have looked like during that time to be here in Lisbon. Parts of the show are narrated, and the spoken words are in both Portuguese and English, but the images are so compelling that words are almost unnecessary.

All the dancers featured in the show are from Clara Andermatt‘s Company and National Ballet. Despite the dancers not being there in real life, still interact with the space around you, even as the walls are transformed throughout the show. They react to this shifting world and truly bring another level of dynamism to the show.

Another critical aspect of making the viewer feel like they’re really embedded into the performance is the music. The entire show is set to a beautiful soundtrack performed by famous Portuguese names such as Rão Kyao, Teresa Salgueiro and accompanied by the Symphonic Chorus Lisboa Cantat, Symphonic Orchestra of GNR and Tocá Rufer. There are also a few iconic Fado songs performed by the Queen of Fado, Mariza.

Where to Find ‘Lisbon Under the Stars’

The Carmo Convent plays host to ‘Lisbon Under Stars‘. You can find the Carmo Convent in one of my favourite little town squares, aptly named ‘Carmo Square’. The Carmo Convent is located in the Chiado neighbourhood, just up the hill from Rossio station. Right outside the convent are one of those iconic drink kiosks, the perfect place to grab a ginja under the Jacaranda trees before or after the show.

About the Carmo Convent

Instead of a stage or a traditional venue, this show takes place inside the ruins of the Carmo Convent. The ruins were once the site of the Catholic Convent of ‘Our Lady of Mount Carmel’. The convent was built in 1389 in the traditional, yet restrained, Gothic style which was synonymous with religious orders of the time. The great rose window over the portal was one of the most awe-inspiring parts of the church before it’s destruction. The great earthquake, fire and flood of 1755 caused immense damage to the building, collapsing the entire roof, leaving the interior open to the sky above.

Due to a multitude of reasons (most of which you’ll discover throughout the show), the convent was left in disrepair. The rest of Lisbon was restored to its former glory or rebuilt in a newer style, so the stark ruins of Carmo were one of the only reminders, to this day, of that great earthquake. Eventually, the convent found a new life and was transformed into the Carmo Archaeological Museum. Despite its new modern role, the structure was left untouched, a living example of Gothic architecture. Some parts of the building were given some structural reinforcements, but for the most part, the building looks as it would have hundreds of years ago, albeit without a room. Inside you can see all different archaeological discoveries which tell the story of Portugal’s history.

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Times & Tickets

There are two shows per evening, at 9:30 pm and 10:45 pm. Tickets cost €15 for adults, children from 6 to 11 years, 65+ and students cost €12.50 and children under 5 are free! Tickets are available at the booth next to the Carmo Convent. We quickly were able to grab tickets right before the show and didn’t need to purchase them online or in advance. The space inside is so vast that there really isn’t a bad seat in the house, so no need to arrive super early either. There are stools available for senior or people with disabilities. Don’t be shy asking for one if needed but don’t take one if you don’t require it.

The best place to sit is right in the middle since you have the best view of the walls around you as well as the front portion of the church where some of the main scenes take place. During the show, you are free to move around the convent instead of having to stay in one place. In my experience at other immersive multimedia performances, I found that walking around actually translated into seeing the show in a new perspective. But here I found that sitting in once spot and turning your head was sufficient enough. I think that creating more spaces to explore would really enhance the experience, something they can focus on for next year!

My Experience at ‘Lisbon Under the Stars’

I have seen a few different examples of these types of projections throughout my travels, and I find that they’re always so inventive and astounding. They transform spaces and turn a dull wall into a work of art. Other multimedia shows I’ve seen were only projected onto a flat surface. At ‘Lisbon Under Stars’ the visuals interacted with the three-dimensional church making it an entirely more complex installation. It really brought the entire place to life. And being outdoors, literally under the stars, just made the show feel more raw and authentic.

While some parts of this show are a little cheesy (the cheap wigs were my biggest complaint), all-in-all the show is fun and wildly creative. If you don’t know anything about Lisbon’s history, it’s such a great introduction to the city’s past. And the cost, I think, is perfectly lined up with the experience you’ll get. It’s a fun little thing to do in the evening, and it would be awesome if you’re travelling with kids.

The show begins with the introduction of the women we will come to know represents the spirit of the Carmo Convent. She will be our guide throughout the show and is truly the best of the dancers. She manages to give a cold and unmoving building emotion and a fierce personality which we can relate to. We can see and feel the effects of history on her face, and by the end of the entire show, it feels like she is an old friend.

The first scene from history we see depicts the great Battle of Aljubarrota. The Battle of Aljubarrota is represented by two men dance-fighting to illustrate the great war between the Kingdom of Portugal and the Crown of Castile. This battle was so significant since it was the moment in which Portugal showed it’s dominance over the country and asserted itself as a force to be reckoned with across Europe. I will say, I wish they had skipped this part or at least re-did the choreography. I think authentic fighting from 1385 is a little strange to watch from a 21st-century perspective and it does seem to drag on a bit. It’s one of the cheesiest parts of the show which doesn’t make excellent use of the fantastic projections. So it kind of felt like instead of starting with a bang, they began with a dud.

After that initial introduction, I was a bit concerned about what the rest of the show would be like. The following scene depicts the construction of the Carmo Convent in 1389. Musicians playing medieval instrument pop up all around you, playing a rhythmic tune as the walls of the convent begin to manifest in front of your eyes. The darkened walls appear to be magically being restored, bricks stack one upon the other and suddenly the true glory of the entire convent, as it once would have appeared when it was first built, reveals itself to you. So many parts of this show really feel like getting into a time machine, and this is perhaps the most impressive one. From this point forward, I had no more doubt and was entirely enraptured.

The convent and the church played a hugely important role in the collection of books and spreading knowledge to the people. The first Portuguese writers and their manuscripts are shown across the walls and books fly around the space, opening their secrets up like doves wings as the scatter.

The walls begin to appear to bob and weave, and before you know it, you are stepping onto a huge ship, setting sail for the new world. This is the great maritime voyage of Vasco da Gama in 1497 which departed Lisbon in search of the sea route to India.

Vasco da Gama succeeded in his attempt to find it, and once there he brought back spices, textiles, animals and more home to Portugal. Trade is where a vast majority of Lisbon’s wealth came from, and the richness of that voyage comes to life here before you. We are transported through the projections, to the ports of India. We can hear and see all the brightly coloured fabrics and foods which would have stunned Portuguese importers at the time as they stepped off the boats into this strange and beautiful new land.

The years past and Portugal was thriving. It seemed like this city was unstoppable. And yet, on November 1st, 1755, an earthquake shook the town and brought destruction, unlike anything anyone has ever seen before. This scene throws us right into the action, the earthquake shakes the interior of the convent and beams, archways and bricks begin to fall. So lifelike you feel like you need to duck to avoid getting hit! The music booms and it feels like you’re right there! A fire breaks out and destroys what the earthquake left behind, the convent is in ruins with fires burning all around, but it’s not over yet…

The fires begin to burn away and just when you think the worst is behind you, a great rush of water swells over the convent walls. This was the tsunami which followed the earthquake and literally swallowed most of the city. The dancers are now submerged underwater and swim like fishes across the empty blue expanse. This part was so lifelike, you could almost feel the weight of the waves crashing down on you. It was like magic.

After the earthquake, there were many attempts to reconstructed the convent, but they all were in vain, for lack of funding, commitment or even just manpower. In 1835 Joaquim António de Aguiar, the prime minister of Portugal and minister of justice, was hell-bent on the extinction of religious orders. On May 39th, 1834 he created a law which extinguished “all convents, monasteries, colleges, hospices and any other houses of the regular religious orders”. This resulted in his famous nickname “O Mata-Frades” (the Friar-Killer). With the dissolution of the monks, the convent’s reconstruction was halted for good, and the church once more fell into ruins, left for the sands of time. The words of Joaquim António de Aguiar are spread across the walls of the convent like he was writing its death warrant.

Time goes one, and all-around Lisbon things were changing…all except for the convent itself. Carmo remained a ruined memory of the earthquake’s destruction. Everywhere you looked, there were new modern inventions and exquisite architecture being constructed, and yet the convent sat untouched. The iconic tiled walls which Lisbon is famous for begin to be plastered all across the convent walls, almost like they represented the modern era overshadowing the past.

In the 1820’s we saw the emergence of Fado music into the mainstream. Fado music played in the background as the walls were covered in the traditional floral, tasselled shawls which the singers usually wear during performances. Fado music can best be described as mournful music. The Portuguese word ‘saudade’ which means ‘longing’ perfectly encapsulates the feelings which Fado attempts to explain. The lyrics in Fado songs often revolve around the life of the poor. The songs are filled with resignation and melancholia, and yet they are so beautiful it’s hard to imagine they’re about something so dark.

In this portion of the show, we are entertained by the music of famed Fado singer, Mariza. She performs a stunning ballad, surrounded by stars projected against the walls of the convent. If you take this chance to look up, on a perfect night, you’ll also see the stars shining above you as well.

The sad Fado music seemed to be the ideal soundtrack for the soul of the convent at this time. She was alone, abandoned and lonely. She performs a last melancholic dance, her swan song, as a last attempt to have the world see her once more. Although things seem lost for her in 1864, something happens to pull her out of the darkness of the past. In 1864 convent was converted into the Archaeological Museum of Lisbon. In here, thousands of treasures from antiquity were collected and displayed for the viewing pleasure of the public. Now the convent is filled with people all the time, and the woman is no longer lonely anymore.

The modern era comes in with a bang! Contemporary art explodes all over the walls. The colours so bright and vibrant they come to life even without the animations. The most impressive works of art were from Amadeo de Souza Cardoso, one of the most famous Portuguese modern artists. Amadeo de Souza Cardoso was influenced both by cubism and by futurism. His colours are so vivid they seem almost aggressive, and yet there is always a nuanced balance to his paintings, which ensure they don’t feel chaotic or confused.

Images frame in the tiled archways around the church, and we see black and white pictures from the fall of the dictatorship of 25 April 1974. This event was called the ‘carnation revolution’. The coup was organized by the Armed Forces and military offers who opposed the regime. As they gathered, the civilians of the city joined them since they knew finally there was no army to resist them, and this was their moment to overthrow the autocratic regime.

What is surprising about this revolution is that not a single shot was fired. An unsuspecting hero in the revolution was a simple restaurant worker, Celeste Caeiro who came out to give red carnations to the soldiers to celebrate their freeing of the Portuguese people from the dictator. Other women followed her lead, placing carnation into the muzzles of guns and onto the soldier’s uniforms. Projected onto all the walls of the convent are falling carnations, stacking up as high as the walls themselves until everyone is buried under a bed of red flowers. The convent spirit is dressed in red in these scenes and performs a dance of freedom as the carnations fall around her. This was one of my favourite visuals of the entire performance.

To end the show, the projections featured urban artists, graffiti and street art were sprayed across the convent walls. The visuals featured images from artists such as Add Fuel, Daniel Eime, the Super Van by Vanessa Teodoro and Alexandre Farto aka Vhils. These aren’t like paintings you’ll always see hanging in fancy art galleries. Instead, these are examples of art which everyone in Lisbon can view every day on their walk to work or passing by on the streetcar. There is no cost of admission, only a sense of discovery which will help you find these beautiful works of art. There is something extraordinary about elevating this kind of artwork, giving it credence in the show featuring mostly “high” art, which I found refreshing and inspiring.

The show ends with one last beautiful Fado song. As the lights go down, all you’re left with is the most incredible view up to the stars, framed by those iconic Gothic columns and archways. The music continues to play as you exit, and we literally danced our way out the door!

If you happen to be in Lisbon while this show takes place next year, it is really worth checking out. I thought it was incredibly fun, funky and the perfect way to spend a warm, summer evening. If you don’t know anything about Lisbon’s past, it’s a fantastic history lesson! What you’ll learn will help contextualize so much of what you’ll see around Lisbon during the rest of your stay. Don’t miss it if you get the chance!

The post Review of Lisbon Under Stars, a Historical Spectacle first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Guide to Gion Kyoto

1. History
2. Access
3. When To Go?
4. Map of Walking Tour
5. Maruyama Park
6. Yasaka Shrine
7. Shijo-Dori
8. Hanamikoji South
   • About Geishas
   • Red Lanterns
9. Ichiriki-tei
10. Geikos and Maikos
    • Geikos
11. Patisserie Gion Sakai
12. Hanamikoji North
13. Maiko Lessons
14. Gion Tatsumi Bridge
15. Tatsumi Daimyojin Shrine
16. Shirakawa Canal
17. Kyōto Minami-za Theatre
18. Temple of Chugen-ji
19. Kamo River Bridge
20. Pontocho Alley
21. Torisei Shijo Kiyamachi
22. Kiyamachi Dori

History

Kyoto was the Imperial capital of Japan from 794 -1869. As a great metropolis, it required the best entertainment for its dignitaries and foreign guests. Unlike many movie portrayals or common myths, Geishas or ‘Geikos‘ are not escorts or prostitutes. They are professional entertainers. Geikos and Maikos are the words for Geishas and Geishas-in-training in Kyoto. Geiko literally translates into “a woman of art.” Geikos are trained in all the different art forms of traditional Japanese art. They will be proficient in playing music, painting, flower arranging, singing and dancing.

Access

Gion is located along the Kamo River and can be easily reached by public transit. The closest train station is the Gion Shijo Station on the Keihan Line and Kawaramachi Station on the Hankyu Line. You can also reach the area by bus #100 or #206 and get off at the Gion bus stop. Public transit costs only 230 yen ($2 US). If you choose to take a taxi, you can ask for it to drop you at the first location, Maruyama Park. However, taxis are pretty pricey (at least $15 US and up depending on your departure location), so I’d advise public transit.

When To Go?

This tour aims to take you around the historic area of Gion while stopping in at the Gion Theatre to see a show in the middle of the tour. This part is totally optional, and you can easily just continue on from there without attending. But I think seeing a performance at the theatre is a great introduction to the art of being a Geisha and gives you an idea of what’s going on behind those closed tea house doors. The performances are at 6:00 pm and 7:00 pm, and I would aim to get a ticket for the 7:00 pm show to give yourself enough time to explore the north-western parts of Gion.

The best time to start this tour is around 5:30 pm, just before dusk. Most of the earlier parts of the journey are best seen when it’s light out, but Gion takes on a different shape when night falls. The red lamps are lit, reflecting off the water like stars in the sky. Any sign of modernity seems to dissipate, and you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Just before dusk, the Geishas will exit their apartments and head to the tea houses for their nightly routines. If you want to see one, this is your best opportunity! Use this map at the bottom of this post to help navigate your way around Gion, but since it’s a small area, don’t worry about getting lost!

Map of Walking Tour

Maruyama Park

Start your walking tour of Gion inside Maruyama Park. If you’re lucky enough to visit Maruyama Park during cherry blossom season, you’re in for a real treat. This park is the best place for cherry blossom viewing in Kyoto. The most impressive sight here is the ‘shidarezakura,’ a weeping cherry tree which lights up at night. It’s truly an ethereal sight! The garden feels like a treasure even during the rest of the year. It is even designated as a National Place of Scenic Beauty.’

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Yasaka Shrine

From the park, walk through the winding pathways to Yasaka Shrine, which sits just at the end of Shijō Street. Yasaka is the spiritual centre of Gion and the reason everything around it exists. In the middle ages, hundreds and thousands of people came through this area to make a pilgrimage to the shrine. The neighbourhood was built around it to feed and house all the travellers passing through.

A shrine has stood on this site since 656, but the Yasaka Shrine was founded in 1350. It was built to honour Susanoo-no-Mikoto, a Japanese god who defeated an eight-headed serpent and saved the citizens of Kyoto from many disasters. This temple comes alive in a different way during the evening or at dusk. The hundreds of lanterns hanging outside the temple, each one donated from a local business with their name inscribed upon it, are lit up when the sun goes down. It is a remarkable site to see against the backdrop of the bright, vermilion-painted torii gates.

Shijo-Dori

After touring the temple, head down to Shijo-Dori, Shijo Dori (dori means street) is the best place to shop in Gion. Here you can find traditional sweet shops, pickles and handicrafts all along this green-roofed and lantern-covered street. This is the most modern area of Gion, with offices and some big-name brands, but any roads that branch off from Shijo will take you right back in time.

Hanamikoji South

A few steps down the street along Shijo-Dori, turn right onto Hanamikoji. Hanamikoji is the real heart of Gion. It is where you’ll find the best-preserved aspects of the city’s architecture and culture. Along this street, it feels as though time has stopped. Hanami-koji means “blossom viewing lane” since during the cherry blossom season, this street explodes with blooms and feels like they encompass the entirety of the skyline.

Along this street, you’ll find some of the oldest establishments in Kyoto called ‘ochayas,’ or teahouses and ‘Machiya’ or ‘townhouses.’ The buildings are all designed similarly, reflecting aspects of traditional Kyoto architecture. They are mostly made of wood, with no windows on the streets to protect the identity of their customers. Each has a wooden lattice facade that runs halfway up the house’s exterior and is topped with baked tile roofs. Most of the houses are unpainted, although the ones which cater to Geishas are given a coat of red or scarlet paint to distinguish them from the rest in a subtle way. Elegantly dressed bouncers wait in from of open doorways, secretly ushering in the elite customers and elegant Geishas away from the rabble on the street.

About Geishas

There aren’t many options for those wondering how you can experience an evening with a Geisha for yourself. Most Geishas are extremely expensive, even if you can get the contacts to book a dinner with them. They don’t just have a phone line or website where you can make a reservation. You need to know someone who can give you a reference to get you in. Some tourist services offer evening dinners with “geishas,” but often, these aren’t real. More often than not, it’s just a woman in a costume pretending to be a geisha.

Remember, if it’s the real thing, it will cost a pretty penny, so if you feel like it’s too good to be true – it is. If you manage to get the right introductions to make a reservation, an evening’s entertainment will start at $700 US, and that’s not even including dinner or drinks.

Red Lanterns

The red lanterns that hang outside humble townhouses are used to indicate these are ‘ochayas.’ Guests will enjoy an evening of entertainment and fine dining hosted by the Geishas and their house mother. They will sing and dance for their guests while food is served. Geishas are also incredible musicians and will often treat their guests to songs played on the Shamisen (a smaller and thinner kind of guitar), the Koto (the national instrument of Japan played like a horizontal guitar), the Shakuhachi (a bamboo flute) and the Tsuzumi (a small tribal drum). Geishas delight in playing traditional Japanese drinking games with the most excellent sake with the businessmen.

Ichiriki-tei

A few steps down the Hanamikoji is Ichiriki-tei or Ichiriki Tea House. This is the most famous tea house in a 300-year-old red-painted house. Ichiriki-tei’s reservations are by invitation only, and the people coming in and out of its doors are sure to be of great importance. It has been the scene of many samurai plots over the years and where prominent governmental figures met and discussed the future of their great city. Although you might not be able to get inside, seeing this iconic building, even from the outside, is truly special.

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Geikos and Maikos

Hanamikoji is the best place to spot a Geisha, so keep your eye peeled. Geisha are more appropriately called Geikos and Maikos. You’ll also see dozens of tourists dressed in fancy kimonos and some fake Geishas posing for pictures. If you’re trying to spot a real Geisha, there are ways to identify them. Maikos (Geishas in training) will have decorations like flowers in their hair, while a Geiko (a fully trained Geisha) will not. Also, the Maikos obis (the belt they wear around their kimono) will stretch almost to the ground.

In contrast, the Geikos obi is neatly folded around her back. The ultimate way to tell the difference is through the shoes. Geikos have flat shoes called ‘zoris’ while the Maikos wear the iconic mile-high platforms called ‘okobos.’

The Geikos have a much more subdued appearance than their trainee counterparts because these women have already made it and don’t need to show off. To become a real Geiko or Geisha, you must go through years of rigorous training. Most girls start training at the age of 15. Then they attend Geisha schools where they learn all the skills required to entertain their guests. Since they are not making any money, their home mother pays for their schooling, training and clothing. The house mother is also called the ‘okasan.’

Geikos

After they become full-fledged Geikos, they must pay off their debts to the house mother, who will get them jobs and find them clients. Many girls dream of becoming Geikos despite it being a rather ancient occupation. Geikos are now becoming famous on the internet, and young girls dream of becoming instant-famous. Just like girls in North America look up to celebrities, girls in Japan look up to these elegant professional party girls. If you see a Maiko or Geiko in the streets, be respectful. They don’t mind if you take a picture, but they won’t stop to chat. If they’re on the street, they are on their way to work and don’t have time to dillydally. Let them go their way, and just allow yourself to observe their majestic presence.

Patisserie Gion Sakai

Past Ichiriki-tei, stop in at Patisserie Gion Sakai. Gion is famous for its sweets. Nothing was better for a Geisha to bring a samurai than a sweet treat. Patisserie Gion Sakai is found inside a traditional wooden-style townhouse. While there are various other things to try, I’d go right for the fluffy cake rolls filled with sweet cream. Some of their more traditional flavours include plum, blood orange and matcha.

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Hanamikoji North

After the show, head north along Hanamikoji; many of the houses along the Hanamikoji north of Shijo-dori are old merchant houses. These charmingly preserved townhouses represent the architectural style of ancient Imperial Kyoto. They have been here for centuries and once would have served the ancient samurais. These days not all the shops on the street cater to knights of the empire. You can find some well-priced restaurants along one of Kyoto’s famous laneways.

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Maiko Lessons

Along Hanamikoji north, see if you can spot one of the Maiko Lesson Boards. These boards aren’t identified with large signage, so they’re a little hard to spot, but they can be found if you know what you’re looking for. Look for a large green board with a chart covered in vertical, white Kanji letters. This is their agenda for the day, saying which classes they need to attend with what teachers are around town. Maikos will stop here throughout the day to see where to head to class since their classes can be found all across Gion in unassuming townhouses instead of one schoolroom. The entire life of Geisha is one of secrecy and illusion, and even their classes reflect this.

Gion Tatsumi Bridge

At the end of Hanamikoji, you’ll come to the Gion Tatsumi Bridge. This bridge is one of the most iconic places for a picture across the Shirakawa Canal. On either side of the canal, you’ll find willow trees whose leaves hang over the water and onto the street, creating a soft, green canopy. Truly one of the most spectacular places in Kyoto. During the day, this bridge can be overrun, but at night you are likely to find it all to yourself.

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Tatsumi Daimyojin Shrine

On the other side of the bridge, you’ll find the Tatsumi Daimyojin Shrine. This tiny neighbourhood shrine, almost completely obscured in darkness at night, is frequented by many local Geishas. Besides the shine is a stone inscribed with a poem by the famous poet Isamu Yoshii. It was made to honour the artist since he greatly loved Gion. The poem reads:

No matter what is said
it is Gion I love.
Even when I sleep
beneath my pillow
the water flows…

Shirakawa Canal

Walking along the Shirakawa Canal is a great place to wander, away from the hustle and bustle of the main street. Some of the city’s most exclusive eating establishments are located along this canal. If any celebrities are visiting the city, you’ll surely spot them here. While the canal is gorgeous to view during the day, there is something extraordinary about seeing it at night, when the trees are alight, and the sparkling stars reflect across the water. Only your footsteps on the stone sidewalk echo across the street.

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Kyōto Minami-za Theatre

Head back down towards Shijo-Dori now that night has fallen. Turning back onto the part of this street that we haven’t yet explored, check out the Minamiza Kabuki Theater. At night this theatre is a beacon of light in the darkness. The Minamiza is the best kabuki theatre in Kyoto. It was founded in 1610, but the one you see standing here today is a reconstruction from 1929. Kyoto is the birthplace of kabuki, and there is no better place in the world to see kabuki as a first-timer or experienced veteran. Kabuki is much like European opera but with a Japanese twist that includes more drama, colours and spectacle!

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Temple of Chugen-ji

Near the Kabuki theatre, down the cobblestone streets next to the Kamo River, we find the tiny Temple of Chugen-ji. You’ll discover ‘Jizo,’ a Buddhist guardian saint, inside this temple. But this Jizo enshrined here is extra special. During the great floods of 1228, the people of Gion prayed to Jizo to save their town from the rising waters. People claimed they saw Jizo physically saving people from the flood and saw him stop the rain. This temple is dedicated to the god who saved the town; perhaps without his intervention, it wouldn’t be here today.

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Kamo River Bridge

Head across the Kamo River Bridge and take a moment to look across the water. The Kamo River has served over the years as a place of great importance for the people of Kyoto. The river was diverted in the 8th century to ensure the new course past the town’s new capital Heian Capital (now called Kyoto). The river was not only a place for the locals to get their drinking water. Still, it was where many of the local fabric makers would come to dye their beautiful fabrics. Pottery makers would begin to get supplies for their work, two iconic symbols of Kyoto craftsmanship.

Pontocho Alley

Across the bridge, you’ll come to Pontocho Alley. This narrow alleyway, marked with a simple wooden sign, runs parallel to the Kamo river. The fancy restaurants overlook the river bank on the right, and the less pricey, more authentic restaurants are off to the left. Although this street feels a bit dingy during the day, at night, it comes alive with paper lanterns, neon signage, and music pouring out of the nearby clubs. There are a few elite theatres around here where Maikos and Geikos perform, so if you didn’t spot one on the other side of the river, this might be your chance to see one here.

Torisei Shijo Kiyamachi

If you’re looking for somewhere to eat, head to Torisei Shijo Kiyamachi, where they serve traditional yakitori. They have a great selection of different kinds of yakitori (food on skewers cooked over a charcoal grill) for reasonable prices. Plus, you have a great view of the cooks at work which is like having dinner and a show!

Kiyamachi Dori

Making your way down the southern part of Gion, take a walk down Kiyamachi Dori. Kiyamachi Dori is another historic street in Gion. The road is located along the embankment of the Takase River, which was actually a man-made canal made in 1586 when a wealthy merchant decided to dig it out. He wanted to create a new waterway to bring in stone and other materials from Fushimi into Kyoto. Although the canal was taken out of service in 1920, it still makes for a scenic walkway; at night, a vast stretch of the street is dazzlingly illuminated. This is the perfect and most peaceful place to end your tour in this historical area of Kyoto.

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With this guide, you can head out and explore Gion on your own, at your own pace and venture off from the large tour groups, which can make what should be a quiet, relaxing stroll into a fierce and crowded experience. Plus, you can follow your instincts when you go on your own; if something looks interesting, go off the path and check it out! You might be surprised by what you find around the next corner.

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Historic Gion Kyoto first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.