Prague Castle - The Creative Adventurer https://thecreativeadventurer.com A Travel Guide for Exploring the World Tue, 27 Aug 2024 13:25:25 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.9.4 https://i0.wp.com/thecreativeadventurer.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/cropped-NewCreativeAdventurerLogo_250x250_v1.png?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 Prague Castle - The Creative Adventurer https://thecreativeadventurer.com 32 32 171399271 Easy and Free Walking Tour of Prague’s Famous Royal Route https://thecreativeadventurer.com/easy-walking-tour-of-pragues-famous-royal-route/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=easy-walking-tour-of-pragues-famous-royal-route https://thecreativeadventurer.com/easy-walking-tour-of-pragues-famous-royal-route/#comments Wed, 11 Nov 2020 13:56:35 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com/?p=18692 Whether you're just looking for a little walkable introduction to the city or looking for a free way to spend an afternoon, a walk down the Royal Way is the ideal way to give yourself a little primer of the history of Prague.

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]]> Prague is a city full of exciting places to visit, but it is also one of the world’s most walkable destinations. Just wandering around the city, you can experience and explore so much of Prague’s rich history without spending a penny! So whether you’re just looking for a little walkable introduction to the city or looking for a free way to spend an afternoon, a walk down the Royal Route is the ideal way to give yourself a little primer on the history and beauty that is the city of Prague.

Table Of Contents
  1. The Route
  2. How Long is the Walk?
  3. Tips
  4. Where to Stay
  5. History
  6. Festivities & Customs
  7. Starting Point: Republic Square
  8. Municipal House
  9. Powder Tower
  10. Celetná Lane
  11. House symbols
  12. House at the Golden Angel 
  13. #36 Celetná Lane | Mint House
  14. The House at the Black Madonna
  15. #12 Celetna, Palace of Harasov
  16. Old Town Square
  17. Týn Church
  18. Astronomical Clock
  19. Malé Náměstí
  20. Rott House
  21. Karlova
  22. House At The Golden Well
  23. Křižovnické Square
  24. Old Bridge Tower Gate
  25. Charles Bridge
  26. Lesser Town Gate
  27. Mostecka Lane
  28. St. Nicholas Church
  29. Nerudova Street
  30. Úvoz
  31. Pohořelec
  32. Loretánská Street
  33. Hradcany Square
  34. Prague Castle
  35. St. Vitus Cathedral
  36. St. Wenceslas and St. Vitus
  37. St. Wenceslas Chapel
  38. Old Royal Palace

The Route

Along this one stretch of road, you’ll find some of the most important landmarks in the city. The Royal Route marks the route which the kings and queens of Prague would have travelled during their coronation procession. They would have begun in Old Town, starting where the former Royal Court was located. The Royal Route continued through to the Charles Bridge, into Mala Strana and finishing at Prague Castle. Despite the route itself being a historical part of the city, the naming convention for the “Royal Route” was a modern tourism invention. The route was named in 1955 when renovations took place to preserve what is now a historically protected pathway.

How Long is the Walk?

The entire span of the Royal Route is about 4 km. While parts of the road in Old Town are relatively flat, the path in Mala Strana is slightly uphill. The Royal Route walk should take no longer than an hour if you didn’t stop. I would plan more time to stop along the way and take in the sights. There are so many unique places to visit along this route.

Tips

Be warned that the parts of town that the Royal Route passes through are super touristy. If you’re looking for something to eat I would always recommend heading off the tourist track. Even just heading off the route down one side street will often make such a difference.

Even though the walking tour isn’t very long, it’s important to wear proper walking shoes as the roads are very uneven and the second half of the tour is a little hilly.

Where to Stay

If you’re looking for a great place to stay along the Royal Route, you’ll be happily surprised to learn that a few of the old historic homes along the route have been transformed into hotels. So you can stay on the very Route where courtiers and dignitaries would have stayed hundreds of years ago. The Grand Hotel Bohemia is a wonderful luxury hotel right on the Route Route with terraces facing out onto the city’s skyline. There really is no better place to get a panoramic view of the city while still in the comforts of your own room. If you’re looking for a more budget-friendly option the Hotel at the Golden Key is located on the historic Nerudova Street. The suites are clean and simple but if you get a room with a city view you’ll be enchanted by the people watching along famed Nerudova street.

History

The very first coronation of a king in Prague took place on June 15th, 1086. But during this time, the seat of the Bohemian kings in Prague was located in Vyšehrad. It wasn’t until 1344 when Emperor Charles IV, the future king, began the creation of a new royal court and residence in the place where we find Prague Castle that the new Royal Route was established. Charles designed his coronation route to go from the Old Royal Court towards his newly created St. Vitus Cathedral, the jewel of his empire. It was there that he would be crowned. Unfortunately, Charles died before the construction was completed and the first king to travel along the coronation route was Sigismund of Luxembourg in 1438.

Since then, 26 kings and 28 queens have taken this same route during their coronations. During the coronation, members of the clergy and royal court were in attendance and members of neighbouring countries who wanted to show their support for their allies would join the procession as well. The last coronation parade to take place along this route was in 1836.

Festivities & Customs

During the coronation parade, people who owned houses along the route would go out of their way to decorate their homes. This was meant to impress and entertain the king or queen and their courtiers. A richly decorated house or palace was a sign to the new rulers of their loyalty to the realm. It was a way to create a great first impression. People would throw flowers against the backdrop of the bells which rang out across the city. Gunfire would sound, and there was singing which filled the squares. While you might think this is all a bit antiquated, think of all the celebrations held for the Queen of England’s Jubilee. Or even the wedding of Prince Harry and Megan Markle. Even today, we can see traces of these historical celebrations in our modern society.

Rituals

Along the route, the party would stop in front of various buildings where city representatives, guild members, and clergymen would make speeches in honour of the new leader. As the King rode down the street, he was expected to toss coins to the people. The ritual was said to ensure the new king or queen would bring prosperity to their country. It was also seen as good luck to release many prisoners, of petty crimes, during the coronation. This was seen as an act of compassion by the new ruler. All these generous actions were meant to strengthen the connection between the new ruler and their people. Too often, the common folk felt so disconnected from their king, as the wealthy and the poor lived two disparate lives. But, in this one moment, they could actually see each other face to face and hopefully make a connection.

Legends of the Royal Route

Sometimes there were downright odd ways in which the people would show their loyalty to the realm. In one instance, in 1527, four men jumped into the Vlatava river during Ferdinand I‘s coronation. This was meant as an act to show devotion to the king. Unfortunately, one of the men who wasn’t a strong swimmer ended up drowning!

In another case, a herd of camels was brought along the route by their Moorish masters. This caused a massive stir as most people in Prague had never seen these animals before and thought of them as a real spectacle. Regrettably, the camels got more attention than the king (which no doubt was quite problematic after the fact). In the baroque period, during a time when high-drama was in vogue, theatrical and musical performances erupted throughout the city. It seemed like on every street corner you could catch someone putting on a real show! I can only imagine who amazingly exciting this would have been for the citizens and how much joy the coronation would have brought to the city.

Starting Point: Republic Square

Start your tour at Republic Square. This was the spot where everyone in the royal court would gather to meet the new ruler and set off along the Royal Route. Republic Square was originally where you’d find the former castle moat. The moat divided the Old and New towns and was also surrounded by the old medieval walls. In the 13th century, a grand Romanesque Church of St. Benedict was constructed. Its outer courtyard would have been where the members of the royal court would have gathered before the coronation. 

Although the church has since been demolished, the area where it once stood serves as a large open square today. The square isn’t too much to write home about now, but try to imagine how it might have looked in the 13th century; a parade of royal carriages, decorated horses, courtiers dressed to the nines and the king and queen in all their finery ready to greet the awaiting crowds.

Municipal House

The fantastical Art Nouveau masterpiece called the Municipal House is now located where the former Royal Court once stood. In 1383 Wenceslas IV had his old royal court built here. It wasn’t until the rule of king Vladislav Jagiellonský when the court finally moved to the other side of town during the construction of the new Prague Castle complex.

Fire at the Royal Court

The old Royal Court contained residences for the king and his courtiers, a grand spa and a lush royal garden. The court even had a menagerie where the king kept his prized possession, one of his white lions. Unfortunately, in 1689, a huge fire broke out across the city of Prague, and the old Royal Court caught fire. It suffered a massive amount of fire damage and was left in disrepair. It later became a military barracks in 1777 before was finally demolished in the 19th century. The property was quickly bought up and the new Municipal House was built in its place.

Despite the fact that there are no architectural remnants of the old royal court here, you can see a large plaque on the exterior of the Municipal House dedicated to its history. It reads, “Here, in the King’s court, from 1454 a representative of the Czech national idea in the religious and state sense, lived and worked…At that time, there was a busy center, where messages from foreign countries met and where conventions and state assemblies took place.”

Coronatin Day

On the day of the coronation, the festivities would begin between 6 am and 7 am. The bells of St. Vitus Cathedral would ring out, announcing the start of the procession. The king or queen would be dressed by their chief chamberlain. They wore precious coronation robes, worn only during this event.

Powder Tower

Continuing along the street, until you’ll come to a busy intersection, dominated by the magnificent gothic Powder Tower. Powder Tower was built in 1475 and is the only piece of the old medieval city walls that have been preserved. Originally there were 13 different gates that provided entry into the old city of Prague. Powder Tower is one of the only remaining entrance. There is something truly awe-inspiring as you stand here looking up at this gateway. This stone arch has stood here greeting guests, just like you and I, for over 500 years. The name of the tower comes from the 17th century. During this period the previously ornamental tower was employed as a gunpowder store.

Josef Mocker

The current appearance of the tower dates back to the late 19th century. The facade was restored by architect Josef Mocker. Mocker worked with famous Czech sculptors to create the statues which decorate the exterior. On the first level, just above the arched entrance, are the statues of King Jiří of Poděbrady and King Vladislav II. On either side of the seated kings are a series of coats of arms which represent the territories the kings ruled over. Statues of Bohemian patron saints can be found on the level above the kings, divided by a series of angels with golden wings.

On the east side of the gate is a large bust of a knight with the Latin inscription, “Behold! Prague. For the honest, I am a mother, to the deceivers I am a step-mother; let those flee away, and may those who want good come.” On the western side, there is similar encryption, which states, “Dear citizen, forbear the unworthy people living without laws from harming me, a fine receptacle.”

The Silver Line

As you pass under the Powder Tower, look down on the ground and see if you can spot one of the “silver line” inscriptions. These round tablets are embedded into the cobblestone road. This marks the pathway of the Royal Route and will help you guide your way.

Celetná Lane

Passing under the Powder Tower, you will find yourself walking along Celetná Lane. Celetná Lane is one of the oldest streets in Prague. The word “Celetná” is the name for a particular kind of bun which was sold in a famous bakery located here. Almost everyone in the city ate bread as one of their everday staples and the eventially people began to refer to the street simply as “Celetna”.

Celetna Lane was originally a popular trading route which merchants would travel along when entering into the city. This meant that the route saw its fair share of money came through their doors. Merchant needed places to sleep and quickly hotels and inns started popping up. The street quickly becomes one of the most prestigious areas of the city.

House symbols

Celetna Lane is home to some of Prague famous house signs. Long before the city established an organized numbering system for buildings in the city, people would find their way around town by looking out for symbols. These symbols sometimes referred to the kind of business which was practiced within. Places like the House at the Golden Horseshoe were an easy way for people to find a blacksmith. House symbols sometimes were made for the heraldry of the family who owned the property. Other times house symbols like a black sun or white peacock were more allegorical. If you’d like to learn more about these House Signs you can check out our walking tours of Old Town or Mala Strana.

House at the Golden Angel 

On the corner of the Králodvorská street stands the mint green building of the house At the Golden Angel. In the center of the entryway is a large golden angel marking the spot. This building, which modernized over the years, was once a popular coaching-inn where guests to the city would stay. A popular spot to stay during a coronation as you would have front row seats to the parade. Wolfgang Mozart even stayed here when he visited Prague.

#36 Celetná Lane | Mint House

One of the most fantastical facades along Celetná Lane, found at #36, was the Mint House, used as a bank since the early middle ages. But the current facade dates back to the high baroque period when such allegorical statues, as you’ll find on the exterior, were popular. Years later, the building was converted into a courthouse. Famed author Franz Kafka worked in Prague as a lawyer, and this was where he would have come to work.

The House at the Black Madonna

On the corner of Ovocný trh and Celetna Lane, look for a golden cage on the outer edge of a building. Inside you’ll find the precious icon of the Black Madonna. This marks the House at the Black Madonna, one of the first examples of cubist architecture in Prague. The house was built in 1911. The architect was desperate to employ the use of cubism in his design, but the location of the house was a problem. Since it was located on this historical laneway, the city council wouldn’t allow him to go hog wild with an uber-modern, and seemingly abstract design. So, architect Josef Gocar employed a mixture of baroque and Cubist architecture which formed his final vision and satisfied both his creative desires and the council.

#12 Celetna, Palace of Harasov

The Hrzan Palace of Tarasov is one of the most impressive buildings along Celetna street. Built in 1702, the building was once a Romanesque manor. Elements of the old home can still be found in the basement cellars of the palace. The current facade was designed by architect G. B. Alliprandi, who is responsible for some of Prague’s other great monuments such as; Czernin Palace, Lobkowicz Palace, the Plague Column of the Holy Trinity and Sternberg Palace. The building is famous for the richly sculpted gargoyles and busts which face out onto the street. Perhaps designed to greet the eyes of the incoming royal procession.

Old Town Square

The royal procession would continued on, passing through the Old Town Square. The old town square was originally founded in the 12th century as the city’s primary marketplace. Traders from all over Prague and indeed, all over Europe, would travel here to trade goods. No other city in Europe boasted such a beautiful scenic town centre. The square is surrounded on all sides by fantastical pastel stucco buildings, notably taller than most historic buildings found in other European cities.

Týn Church

The most imposing building is, without a doubt, the gothic Church of Our Lady of Týn. The distinctive twin black Gothic spires loom over the Týn Courtyard. The spiked turrets are so iconic of the city and can be seen all across Prague. This 14th-century church would have been an important stop for the procession. Priests would have come here to greet the new king and bestow blessings upon him.

Astronomical Clock

Perhaps one of the most famous sights in Prague, the royal procession would, of course, pass the great Astronomical Clock. The Astronomical Clock is one of Prague’s BIGGEST attractions, or at least that’s what the hoards of people crowding around it would make you believe. The clock is housed on the southern wall of the Old Town Hall and has been there, in part, since 1410.

Legend says that if something bad were to befall the clock, Prague itself would fall. Although it is just a superstitious rumour, it’s been enough to keep the clock well protected and preserved after all these years. The king, which was the supreme ruler of Prague, would have been charged with protecting the clock from damage or destruction. Passing by this clock would have been a right of passage for any future king.

Malé Náměstí

Malé Náměstí, or the “little square,” is the younger sister to the famous Old Town Square. This intimate trapezoid plaza is almost hidden away and is one of my favourite places in Prague. Everywhere you look you are absolutely surrounded by beautiful houses. In the center of the square, in the middle of rows of cafe tables and chairs, is a gorgeous fountain. Covered in a wrought-iron cage is a golden-crowned statue of the lion of Bohemia from the 16th century. 

Rott House

One of the most famous houses on the square is the Rott’s house at No. 142. The house was originally a Romanesque construction built in the second half of the 12th century. The cellars in the basement still contain elements from this romanesque construction. The current appearance of the Rott House has a neo-renaissance facade with richly decorated allegorical images of crafts and economic activities painted on the side. Originally the house was called the House at the Three Roses. It was named for the iconic three white roses painted on the top of the facade. This house was once an old hardware store but is also home to one of Prague’s most infamous ghost stories!

Karlova

From the little square, you turn down the narrow Karlova Lane. While this street today is undoubtedly one of the most touristy parts of the city, there is still so much history steeped behind these walls. These authentic stories predate the souvenir stalls and tacky “Czech” cafes. Most of the buildings along this narrow alley date back to the gothic and romanesque period but display “new” baroque pastel facades. While “Karlova” is the current name for this snaking street, in the 12th century, it went by the names Zlatnická, Ševcovská, and Nožířská. Each of these names referred to the kind of businesses that the area was filled with. Respectively they were goldsmith lane, shoemaker lane and knife lane.

House At The Golden Well

As you continue weaving your way through the crowds, make your way to House At The Golden Well. You’ll notice this building immediately as it has one of the most fantastical facades on the street. The exterior is covered in gilt statues and fantastical ornamentation. Legend has it that below the house is a secret cellar. Supposedly the well in the basement hides a secret gold treasure. But anyone who has tried to find the treasure has met a grizzly end. To learn more about the ghosts and legends of the old town square, check out my spooky walking tour.

Křižovnické Square

Coming out of Karlova street, you pop out right in front of the Charles Bridge. Křižovnické Square is one of the smaller squares in the city but no less grand, in my opinion. It faces out onto the Charles Bridge, the Klementium and the stunning Vltava river. In the center of the square is a dominating statue of King Charles IV. Charles IV himself would have passed by this very spot on his way to be crowned at St. Vitus Cathedral. King Charles IV founded one of Prague’s universities, and surrounding the statue are allegorical images of the university faculties; medicine, law and philosophy.

Old Bridge Tower Gate

Before you step onto the bridge, you must pass through the Old Bridge Tower Gate. The gate welcomes passersby into the Little Quarter. The dark brick aged over time has turned almost black. The gate was constructed in 1380. When it was built it served as a fortification against invaders although today it is merely ornamental. Its Gothic features loom down upon you as you walk underneath. Above the archway are several royal crests. Resting atop them are statues of various religious figures, each one holding a shield with a different heraldric symbol emblazoned upon it. One can only imagine how lavishly decorated this gateway would have been during the royal coronations!

Charles Bridge

The Charles Bridge is one of the most spectacular bridges found anywhere in the world. If you’re lucky enough to come here early in the morning or later in the day hopefully you will find it less than stacked with tourists. That way you can really soak in the grandeur of this incredible place. Throughout the rest of the day, the bridge is packed edge to edge with tourists. If it is, just imagine that this bustling and raucous atmosphere was similar to that of the great crowds walking with the procession of the king.

History of the Charles Bridge

The Charles Bridge is the oldest bridge in Prague. The bridge was constructed in 1357 under the watchful eye of King Charles IV. The bridge is 621 meters long and almost a whopping 10 meters wide! On either side of the bridge are two guard towers, once used for protection, now they only serve as a fascinating decoration for the tourists.

As you walk along the bridge, you come across dozens of statues and statuaries in Baroque and Gothic styles. They were all once original pieces created in the 16th and 17th centuries but now are replaced with replicas to keep better in the weather. The statues depict various saints and patrons who were of great importance during the time of its construction.

Lesser Town Gate

Steppin off of the bridge, you come to the Lesser Town Gate. The two towers greet you as you enter the “Little Quarter”. This lofty structure with a wide arched gateway is flanked on either side by two enormous towers of differing heights. The non-uniformity of these towers always bothered me (I’m someone who likes symmetry), but over time I’ve found the oddity to be quite charming. The lower tower is called Judith’s Tower. It was built in the Romanesque style in the 12th century and once connected the old bridge from Mala Strana to Old Town before the Charles Bridge was built.

In 1591 the bridge tower was renovated in the new Renaissance style and decorated with ornate gables and the trendiest art form of the time: sgraffito. Sgraffito is a form of decoration made by scratching through a surface to reveal a lower layer of a contrasting colour, typically done in plaster or stucco. 

The second tower, aptly named, is the Higher Tower. It was built in the Gothic style as a pair to the Charles Bridge’s Tower of Parler, located on the other side. At the peak of the arched gateway, you’ll see various symbols of Prague. There are the emblems with the imperial eagle, the Czech lion and the symbol of Upper Lusatia; below them, are all the emblems of the Old Town and the Lesser Town.

Mostecka Lane

Mostecka Lane is one of the oldest streets in Prague, with buildings dating back to the middle ages. I absolutely love the picturesque nature of this street, with the wonderfully decorated houses along the edges leading up to the great Nicholas Church at the end of the street. Walking along, I can imagine people hanging out the windows along the street, throwing flowers at the court and the king as they passed by.

St. Nicholas Church

St. Nicholas Church, with its three masterful copper-topped roofs, stands high above Mala Strana. It is known across Europe as an absolute architectural marvel and one of the most exceptional examples of Prague Baroque design. Whereas St. Vitus is an example of the most beautiful Gothic architecture, St. Nicholas provides a glimpse into the opulence, which is true baroque.

The church of St. Nicholas was built in 1704 by the father-son duo Christoph and Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer. Saint Nicholas is known as the protector of children and the patron saint of sailors. One of Prague’s most famous nobles, Count Wenceslaus Kolowrat-Liebsteinsky, was the church’s single largest patron. Over the years, he donated over 178,5000 gold pieces to the construction of the church. Despite never having a king in the family, their influence over Bohemia’s rule was significant. It seems fitting that a symbol of their dominance and power would overshadow the court procession, and it continued on its way to the castle.

Nerudova Street

Continue along Mostecka Lane behind the church and walk north until you reach Nerudova street. While Old Town, I think, gets more attention, it’s streets like Nerudova, which solidifies my belief that the Little Quarter is the far superior part of the city (although truthfully, I love both a lot). Nerudova gets its name from the famous Czech poet and journalist Jan Neruda. Jan Neruda lived in the area and was also very notable for writing stories about the Little Quarter and the people who lived there.

House Symbols

On either side of the street, you can find facades bearing the house symbols. These insignias helped identify businesses and homes hundreds of years before the invention of the modern house numbering system. The first incarnation of the road was built in the 13th century.

The current layout of Nerudova, which leads to Prague Castle, was redesigned in the 17th century after the Great Fire of 1541. The fire resulted in the destruction of so many houses around Nerudova, which allowed the city to redesign the area and build newer, more elaborate homes.

Úvoz

As you continue westward, Nerudova will transform into Úvoz street. Unlike the previous street, the houses here are only on the right side of the street. On the left side of the road, the walkway opens up out across this beautiful vista. You can see the entirety of Petrin Hill and much of the cities of Prague across the river.

The street initially went by the name Strahovská Cesta, named after Strahov Monastery, located just at the top of the hill. The current name “Úvoz” in Czech means “ravine.” Many people will steer away from this street as it veers away from the tourist track and is a bit steep. But this area is one of Prague’s oldest streets and is a must-see for the royal route. I can imagine how the king would have used this part of the procession to pause and look out over the city.

Pohořelec

As you reach the end of Úvoz, you come onto Pohořelec square. This is where the procession would make a sharp turn towards Prague Castle. The name of the street, Pohořelec, means “the Scene of Fire” in Czech. A haunting name for a street but with good reason. This area of the city had burned down multiple times over the years and seemed to be damned to suffer fire after fire. Perhaps naming the street after the occurrence was a way of dispelling the curse.

Loretánská Street

Turning up Loretánská street, the procession would pass Loretto Church. The great Loreta Church is a pilgrimage site where thousands of people make their own procession every year. The church acts as the final stop during Prague’s Epiphany Procession of the Three Kings.

Most of the houses along the street date back to 1742 and onward since the fire swept through this area and destroyed all previous buildings. The only building remaining along this lane, which remembers the early days of the procession, is the Hradčany Town Hall. This building was established in 1598. Outside the town hall, several of the Little Quarter city representatives would have gathered to greet the new King of Bohemia and make speeches in his honour.

Hradcany Square

Hradčanské náměstí or Hradcany Square is a large open space at the top of Prague’s Lesser Quarter. This part of the square was connected to Prague castle by the great Matyáš Gate. This allowed the royal court’s noble members to quickly come and go from their palaces in the square to the King’s new residence. All the buildings here are incredibly beautiful manors. These elegant houses were meant for Prague’s high society. This would perhaps have been one of the most lusciously decorated parts of town during the coronation. Dedicated courtiers would have pulled out all the stops to impress the new king and queen.

The middle of the square is dominated by a great plague column. Plague columns were a popular piece of decorations for the courts in the 15th century. They were designed to praise the Virgin Mary for saving their people from the plague which ravaged Europe. The plague column represented the end of the disease and the resolve of the population.

Prague Castle

Prague Castle is more like a village, rather than one singular castle. Inside these stone walls are some of Prague’s most infamous architectural masterpieces. Combined into a compound, this mini-city is now known as “Prague Castle.” Prague Castle takes up over 70,000 square metres. The various buildings inside date as far back as the 9th century. Hidden within these walls, seemingly ubiquitous townhomes, storefronts, and little passageways have been left to the passage of time, almost untouched from the modern world. This timeless atmosphere is a big draw for tourists. Each year, more than 1.8 million footsteps tread on these cobblestones.

The earliest architectural research shows that the castle was founded around 880 by Prince Bořivoj. The large, wooden walls surrounding the castle when it was first constructed were built as a defence against incoming invaders and enemies. Over the years, wooden walls were replaced with stone, and many of the original stones are still standing today. Despite these countermeasures, Prague suffered many, many wars over the years. As such, much of the castle complex has been destroyed and rebuilt over time. 

St. Vitus Cathedral

Dominating the inside Prague Castle is the great St. Vitus Cathedral, looming overhead. St. Vitus is one of the best examples of high Gothic architecture in Prague and whose silhouette creates the iconic skyline when looking up at Prague Castle from down below. This would have been the finish line for the procession. This was where the new king would be crowned. He would step into the church a noble but knowing he would step out, a king.

St. Wenceslas and St. Vitus

Wenceslas I was the King of Bohemia from 921 to 935. During his reign, the people of Bohemia had not all yet converted to Christianity. The Emperor, in his efforts to convert the Slavic people to this new religion, gifted St. Wenceslas with a holy relic; the forearm of St. Vitus. St. Vitus has a Slavic name, and the Emperor thought this would help the Slavic people accept Christianity. Even today, St. Vitus’ relic is seen as one of Prague’s most precious treasures.

St. Wenceslas Chapel

The most important area of the Cathedral during the coronation is St. Wenceslas Chapel. Inside, relics of the great Saint of Prague are still housed. The lower portions of the walls here are decorated with over 1,300 semi-precious stones and paintings depicting the Passion of Jesus from 1372–1373. You can see a small door with seven locks in the corner of the room. This door leads to the ‘Crown Chamber, ‘ which contains the precious Crown Jewels used in the coronation.

During the coronation, members of the clergy and the high ranking dignitaries would enter the chamber to take out the crown and sceptre required for the coronation ceremony. The lovely chapel was where the ceremony would occur. The entire room would be decorated in red and white drapery making its already elaborate interior all the most regal. Inside the chapel, the new royal would be blessed with holy oil by the highest-ranking priest. When the ceremony was finished he would emerge from the small chapel to the cheers of the adoring public gathered in the nave of the cathedral. 

The first section of the presbytery behind the altar was where the crown’s most important guests would sit during the service. From here they could watch as the new sovereign would make two oaths as the newly crowned ruler. One was to Prague’s people and the other a promise to the clergy. Music rang throughout the enormous hall, and once the ceremony was completed, a wave of joyous celebration would wash over the crowd. Trumpets and drums would play as the newly crowned monarch walked back out of the church into the courtyard where he would be greeted by all citizens of Prague.

Old Royal Palace

The party would then make their way to the final stop on tour, the Old Royal Palace. This building was first erected in the 9th century but has since been through various renovations. Although you can only view parts of the palace, the grandest part of it is Vladislav Hall. This would have been where the grand coronation feast would have been held. The vaulted, late gothic ceilings in this room are the only piece of the original building which still remains. One can imagine how during the coronoation feast the hall would have been filled with brightly coloured tables cloth, shimmering satin dresses spinning about the room. The tables would be filled to bursting with extravagant food laid out for the nobility there to eat, drink and be merry.

During coronations, the walls were decorated in the same red and white drapery found in the chapel. No doubt, the party would have lasted long into the night, with members of the court stumbling home to their palaces in Hradcany Square as the morning sun was just breaching the horizon.

This brings us to the end of the procession and the end of the tour. I hope you have enjoyed our own walked down memory lane in the city of Prague. We leave this tour in the center of Prague Castle and the surrounding neighbourhood of Mala Strana. This is one of the most beautiful parts of town. If you are interested in exploring it in more detail, I have some fantastic guided tours to lead the way.

Let me know in the comments what your favourite spot along the walk was or if you have any questions about the procession itself!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

References

Prague City Line | Kralovskacesta | Prague.cz

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]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/easy-walking-tour-of-pragues-famous-royal-route/feed/ 2 18692 Free Self-Guided Walking Tour of Hradčany, Prague’s Castle District https://thecreativeadventurer.com/free-self-guided-walking-tour-of-hradcany-pragues-castle-district/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=free-self-guided-walking-tour-of-hradcany-pragues-castle-district https://thecreativeadventurer.com/free-self-guided-walking-tour-of-hradcany-pragues-castle-district/#comments Sat, 17 Oct 2020 17:25:25 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//hradany-pragues-castle-district/ Hradčany is one of Prague's quietest blocks despite being located right beside some of the most prominent attractions. This allows travellers to explore the charming street corners and historic buildings while getting away from the hoards of tourists.

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]]> Up above the city of Prague, we discover the neighbourhood of Hradčany. Never heard of it? Well, I can’t say I’m completely surprised. This upper part of the Lesser Quarter is often overlooked by tourists who rush into the Prague Castle complex and then quickly rush back towards the Old Town. But that’s such a shame since I LOVE this part of town and find exploring these hillside buildings to be such an adventure. Hradčany is one of Prague’s quietest blocks despite being located right beside some of the most prominent attractions. This allows travellers to explore the charming street corners and historic buildings while getting away from the hoards of tourists.

In 1784, four independent boroughs in Bohemia came together to form the city of Prague. Today, each of these districts feels like their own unique area of the town, whose architecture, atmosphere and layout change as you move throughout them. The four neighbourhoods are Hradčany (the Castle District), Malá Strana (the Lesser Quarter below Prague Castle), Staré Město (Old Town) and Nové Město (New Town). 

Hradčany is such a beautiful part of town. It’s fantastically easy to wander around. If you’re not in a rush to get back to the old city after exploring Prague Castle, I highly recommend taking a walk through this part of town. Although there is a myriad of impressive buildings to venture inside (should time allow) my favourite thing to do in this area is simply to walk around aimlessly and admire all the romantic-looking houses which dot the streets.

Table Of Contents
  1. Location
  2. History
  3. Access
  4. Zámecké schody
  5. Paradise Garden
  6. Hradčany Square 
  7. Schwarzenberg Palace
  8. Salm Palace
  9. Statue of Tomas Garrigue Masaryk
  10. The New Royal Palace
  11. Archbishop Palace
  12. Šternberský Palace
  13. Martinic Palace
  14. Tuscany Palace
  15. Loretánská street 
  16. Hradčany Town Hall
  17. U Černého vola
  18. Strahov Monastery
  19. Basilica of the Assumption
  20. Strahov Library
  21. Černín Palace
  22. Loreto Sanctuary
  23. Novy Svet
  24. Church of St. John of Nepomuk
  25. Vstup Jelení Příkop or Deer Moat
  26. Powder Bridge
  27. Prague Riding School
  28. The Royal Garden
  29. Royal Ball Game Hall
  30. Singing Fountain
  31. Queen Anne's Summer Palace

Location

Hradčany or the Castle District is located on the Vltava river’s west bank, above the Mala Strana/Lesser Quarter. This area is one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Prague and wandering around its noble historical palaces, romantic nooks, peaceful squares and beautiful lookouts feel like stepping back in time.

History

The settlement of Hradčany was established in the 13th century. Unlike the Old Town and Lesser Quarter, which were official cities, Hradčany wasn’t an official town and developed in a much more haphazard manner. In 1598 Emperor Rudolf II finally promoted it to the status of a city, and the district’s situation began to change. More and more wealthy people began to move in. Either to be closer to the palace as a sign of their devotion to the crown or perhaps they were a royal worker who moved in to be closer to work. 

Because the area of Hradčany was located near Prague Castle, it gained the title of being a “Royal Town” in the 14th century shortly before New Town was founded by Charles IV. Because of this status, residents living here were all relatively wealthy. The owners could afford to hire the best artisans to create some of Prague’s most stunning structures. Hradčany was an independent city until 1784, when it became part of Prague’s unified royal capital.

Access

We’re going to start the tour just outside Prague Castle, assuming you’ll be taking this tour after exploring that part of town. If you’re making a separate trip to Hradčany, you can follow the same path. The best way to access the start of the walking tour directly is by taking the tram to Malostranské náměstí station. The first stop on the guided tour is only a few minutes from the tram stop.

Zámecké schody

We start our tour along with the steps of Zámecké schody, or the Castle Stairs. This pedestrian-only street was built in 1278. The name translates into “the steep road” in Czech as the original stairs that used to be here until the 1870s were perilously steep. Today the patterned stone steps are flanked on either side by beautiful old stone walls and a gorgeous view across the city of Prague.

Paradise Garden

When you reach the top of the stairs, head over the right to a small green area called the “Paradise Garden.” Up here you’ll find a series of benches along the grass where you can sit and look out over the city. It’s a spectacular viewpoint and one not to be missed!

Hradčany Square 

Head back out to Hradčanské street, where you’ll find the statue of St. Filip Neri at the intersection of the stairs and the road. From here, head towards the grand Hradčany Square. Hradčany Square is one of the most scenic areas of the neighbourhood, full of charming pastel palaces and houses everywhere you look. The square faces onto Prague castle, and from here you can see the towers of St. Vitus Cathedral looming overhead.

The middle of the square is dominated by a great plague column. Plague columns were a popular decorative addition to squares in the 15th century. They were designed to praise the Virgin Mary for saving the people of Prague from the great plague. Plague columns represented the end of the epidemic and were thought to prove the resolve of the population of Prague. This statue was designed by Maxmilián Brokof, one of the most famed sculptors of the Baroque era. Even the plague columns of this district were made by the most illustrious artists.

Schwarzenberg Palace

On the south side of the square is Schwarzenberg Palace. This elegant Renaissance palace from the 16th century is covered in the most intricate geometric design. The pattern is made to look like a pyramidal relief, but if you go up to it and touch it, you’ll see that this is just a trick of the eye. This effect is called sgraffito and is a painting technique used to create an optical illusion of a three-dimensional texture on a flat surface. The effect is mesmerizing. And unless you touch the walls you’d think the entire facade was meticulously carved.

The palace was built for Count Jan Jr. from Lobkovice in 1545. Schwarzenberg Palace is now home to the National Gallery of Prague. If you choose to venture inside, you’ll be able to see some of the original painted ceiling frescoes. One of the most famous treasures of the building is the restored frescoes of The Judgment of Paris and the Conquest of Troy.

The art housed inside the palace contains paintings from the Renaissance done by Bohemian artists as well as Old Masters. Artists such as; Hans von Aachen, Lucas Cranach, Adriaen de Vries, Albrecht Dürer, El Greco, Francisco José Goya, Hans Holbein, Peter Paul Rubens, and others are featured in here.

Salm Palace

Adjacent to the Schwarzenberg Palace is the Salm Palace or Salmovský Palace. The Salm palace is easily identifiable by the large “S” monogram on the gate. This building, built in the classical style, was initially made for the Archbishop Vilém Florentin, or Prince of Salm-Salm, in 1800.

The older palace, which once stood here, was renovated in the 19th century, as was the fashion during that period. It was used throughout the later part of the 19th century as the communist party’s headquarters. Today, it is used as a part of the National Gallery. This part of the gallery is where you can find paintings from the 19th century and onward. This part of the gallery is known for their abstract art installations and modern art collection.

Statue of Tomas Garrigue Masaryk

Just outside the Salm Palace stands the great bronze statue of Monument to Tomas Garrigue Masaryk. He stands atop a tall plinth, looking out at the New Royal Palace with the view of Prague’s city spread out behind him. Tomas Garrigue Masaryk was a Czechoslovak statesman, philosopher, sociologist and pedagogue. But most importantly, he was the first president of the Czechoslovak Republic and was seen as the founding father of Czechoslovakia.

The New Royal Palace

The New Royal Palace is a formation of cream coloured buildings set against the eastern part of Hradčany Square. The royal family moved into these apartments during the Renaissance when their old Royal Palace, dating back tot he 12th century, was no longer serviceable. The multitude of structures was renovated to have one unified facade under the rule of Empress Maria Theresa. She felt they looked much too much like a hodgepodge of architectural styles. 

The enormous gates that guard the entrance feature a series of wrestlers called the “Gate of the Titans.” This gate leads you into the Court of Honour, although today, the Titans’ Gate is only used as an exit, so you cannot enter via this gate. The wrestling statues were carved by Ignác Fr. Platzer in 1762. On either side of the gladiators are statues of a lion and an eagle atop a great column.

Inside the Court of Honour, we find the central Matthias Gate. The Matthias Gate was once the ceremonial gate used as an entrance to Prague Castle in the early part of the 17th century. Atop the gate is a Latin inscription in gold that gives the date of its construction, 1614. At one point, this gate would have been freestanding as the wings on either side hadn’t been built yet. When they were added, the entrance was redesigned to be incorporated into the buildings.

Archbishop Palace

On the north side of the square, you’ll find the Archbishop Palace, named as such because it was built for the Archbishops of Prague. The previous Archbishop house was located further south in the Lesser Quarter. People would rave about the manor’s opulence, and even King Wenceslas himself apparently envied the splendour. Unfortunately, the palace burned down in the 15th century. 

In 1561, Emperor Ferdinand I donated a house around Prague castle, which the archbishops could use as their new residence. The building went through round after round of redesigns and renovations. Each subsequent archbishop wanted to add their own personal flourish. Their palace’s current incarnation is from the Rococo era, seen clearly by the scrolling curves, white and cream pastel colours, sculpted moulding and dramatic figures. In the center of the facade is a coat of arms inserted under the cornice. On either side are two allegorical figures of Force and Faith by sculptor Tomas Seidan.

Archbishop’s Chapel

Although the palace’s interior is not accessible to visitors, inside the holy chapel is a stirring painting of the Crucifixion. It is said the artist who painted the picture hired a young beggar to pose as Jesus. The artist became frustrated and felt like the beggar didn’t look like he was suffering enough to be painted appropriately as Jesus on the cross. So, the artist stabbed the beggar through the heart to paint his agony-filled face. After the painting was finished, the artists committed suicide, unable to live with what he had done. But the picture still hangs in the chapel to this day, and the anguish upon the man’s face in the portrait is utterly haunting.

Šternberský Palace

Walking under the archway to the left of the Archbishop’s Palace, you find yourself wandering down a narrow alleyway towards the Šternberský Palace. The palace was initially built for the Count Václav Vojtěch of Šternberk in 1698. The main facade of the palace looks out onto Hradčanské Square but to get to the inner courtyard one must follow the hidden passage we find ourselves in. The building was bought by the Society of Patriotic Friends of the Arts, where they display European Art from the Classical Era to the end of the Baroque Era, with emphasis on the 14th-18th centuries.

Martinic Palace

Walk back to the square, and continue westward along Hradčanské street. When we reach the square’s edge, we will find ourselves face to face with Martinic Palace on the northwest corner. The exterior of this building is truly something to see. The palace is one of the best remaining Renaissance buildings in Prague. The first building on this site was made in 1541 but burned down shortly after. In 1589 Ondřej Teyfl from Kinsdorf bought the property and transformed it into this renaissance jewel of Bohemia. What makes this building really special is the richly detailed sgraffito painted onto the facade. The sgraffito designs depict scenes from the lives of Joseph, King David and Hercules. 

The name of the palace came from the 18th century when the great Martinic family owned the palace. After the death of the last surviving family member, the palace was sold off. Eventually, the building was turned into an apartment complex. These 70 apartments were lived in until 1967! Can you imagine living in such a place! 

Seeing the property’s historical architectural value, the building was purchased by the city and reconstructed back to its former glory. The 500-year-old interiors have been lovingly restored based on drawing the architects found of the original structure. The lavishly decorated interiors are still used for large events and even employed as the historical sets for TV shows such as ‘The Borgias.’ But day-to-day, the palace serves as the office for Prague’s chief architect, which feels very appropriate indeed!

Tuscany Palace

Heading back south on the western side of Hradčany street, we pass by the final palace built in this majestic square, the Tuscany Palace. This baroque palace was built in the 17th century as the private residence of the Dukes of Tuscany. Walking up to it, you almost know it’s the Tuscan palace, from the facade’s warm terracotta tones alone. Today it serves as the office for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. 

Above the entrance, you’ll see the magnificent Tuscan coat of arms. On either side of the crest are two large cornucopias pouring forth with the bounty of Tuscany’s countryside. Two imperial eagles sit perched on either side, and four chubby cherubs fly above and below the crest.

This palace was designed by the same man who built the Archbishop’s Palace, and the two buildings seem to be almost brothers, looking at one and other from across the square. Along the top of the palace are a series of allegorical statues representing the Seven Liberal Arts; Grammar, Rhetoric, Logic, Arithmetic, Geometry, Music and Astronomy. 

Loretánská street 

Pass the Tuscan Palace and continue along Loretánská street. Although this street can get busy in the summer during high tourist season, this is mainly due to the spectacular view of Prague castle framed along the road. The best place to get this shot is further up the hill at #13/179 Loretánská street.

In the 14th century, this part of town was actually located outside the city walls. It wasn’t until 1598 that it became a part of Prague’s city. Some of the houses here are very well preserved as they were spared from the great fire in 1742 set by the invading French army. 

Hradčany Town Hall

Located on Loretánská Street is the former seat of the Hradčany Town Hall. Despite the council being disbanded with their integration into Prague, their beautiful Renaissance building still stands. Although the house was sold as a residential property, the new owners managed to preserve the Renaissance sgraffito exterior made when the town hall was built in 1598. On the front of the facade, you can still make out the emblem of the town of Hradčany. The symbol features the imperial coat-of-arms and a picture of Justice.

U Černého vola

If you’re looking to stop somewhere for a drink or a bite to eat, pop into U Černého vola. U Černého vola, in Czech, means the Black Ox. This is one of Prague’s original beerhalls. The building dates back to 1574, but it wasn’t until 1726 that the building was used as a pub.

The interior makes one feel like they are going back in time. The vaulted ceilings, old coat of arms and long communal tables make you feel like you are entering a brew hall from the 18th century. Back then, it was commonplace to eat together, even with strangers. This is an excellent way to meeting people even today! The centrepiece of the interior is clearly the communist era bar. Here you can sample one of Prague’s finest brews; Kzoel beer, straight from the tap.

Strahov Monastery

Continue along the streets, walking westward, until you reach the Strahov Monastery. The monastery, with its austere white baroque mouldings, hides a stunning and bejewelled interior. The monastery was founded in 1143 by Prince Vladislav II. Despite the baroque exterior, the interior contains one of the best-preserved Romanesque structures in Europe.

Basilica of the Assumption

Walking up to the monastery, the first part of the building to enter is the Basilica of the Assumption. The original church, which was first constructed here, was built in the 12th century. It was one of the four main temples of the Czech kingdom, along with the Cathedral of St. Vitus, the Church of St. Peter and Paul and the Břevnov monastery. In the middle of the 13th century, the Strahov monastery suffered a destructive fire. It was rebuilt in a gothic design while maintaining its romanesque floorplan.

But in 1747, after the bombings from the French army, the facade of the church was severely damaged once more. When they began restoring the church’s frontispiece, the project architect Jan Antonin Kvittainer was employed to freshen it up for the modern era using the then trendy baroque style.

The church’s interior also features robust baroque designs, with a series of lavish frescoes covering the entire ceiling. There are 46 paintings in total representing scenes from the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary, the Life of St. Norbet, and the Marian cycle. Each one of these was painted by J. V. J. Neunherz in 1743. Each one is surrounded by these lush gilded stucco carvings highlighting the artwork within. Almost like a gallery wall mounted on the ceiling.

Walking down the aisle, take in the beauty of the series of cartouches located beside the rows of pews. Each one is dedicated to a different saint created by painter Leopold Willmann. At the end of the aisle, you find the great altar. Atop it is the magnificent carving of the Virgin Mary’s Assumption for whom the church is named after.

Chapel of St. Norbert

Walking back down the aisle, continue to the right side of the church, where you’ll find a tiny chapel that juts out from the northern edge of the basilica. This is the Chapel of St. Norbert. The original chapel, which was located here, was built in 1258 and dedicated to St. Ursula. The newer baroque version was converted in 1745 after the church acquired the holy relics from St. Nobert himself.

Above the chapel is a small dome featuring a fresco of the Martyrdom of St. Ursula, a remnant of the previous chapel’s designs. The frescoes were painted by Siard Neosecky. In this painting, we can see St. Ursula being made a martyr along with her handmaids. The legend goes that Ursula went on her pilgrimage to Rome to dedicate herself to god. But before they would reach their destination, Ursula and her handmaids were attacked by Huns and murdered. The fresco is a powerful image full of fire and violence. It seems to grow wilder and wilder as the painting inches towards the dome’s centre, where it also appears to be set alight. Inside the small chapel, you can also find the reliquaries containing St. Ursula’s remains. Nearby is the the rococo sarcophagus containing St. Nobert’s remains, made in 1755.

Strahov Library

Also attached to the same building is the Strahov Library. The library was one of the first parts of the monastery which was built when the entire complex was constructed. Throughout the years, it was destroyed and rebuilt, time after time, war after war. Many of their precious books were stolen. Despite this, every time they rebuilt it, they sought to make their library even grander. Today, the library stands as a jewel of the Baroque era. 

To enter the library required admission. Adults are 150 CZK ($6.50 USD) and students or children are 80 CZK ($3.40 USD). The library has three parts that visitors can explore: the Grand Philosophical Hall, The Baroque Theological Hall and the Cabinets of Curiosities. Looking from floor to ceiling at this ornately designed library will literally take your breath away. It contains over 42,000 ancient philosophical texts, sprawling along the walls like a wave of knowledge. I would highly recommend giving it a visit! More information on the library can be found here.

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Černín Palace

Head back the way you came in until you reach the grand Černín Palace. Černín Palace, now home to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, was built in the 1660s by diplomat Humprecht Jan Černín z Chudenic, the Habsburg imperial ambassador to Venice and Rome. Chudenic was incredibly vain and saw himself as more important than even the emperor. He built his palace in a location that was just higher up than Prague Castle, making his palace appear more prominent.

Loreto Sanctuary

Behind the Černín Palace, you’ll find the buttercream frosted Church of Loreto. The name “Loreto” references the little cottage in which the Virgin Mary lived in Nazareth before becoming the mother of god. There are several “Loreto” churches all over the world. While visiting the one in Italy, Countess Kateřina Benigna of Lobkowicz fell so deeply in love with it that she entrusted a fair share of her wealth to Prague’s construction of their own Loreto. The church was built in 1626 by an Italian architect to ensure this church was a faithful reproduction of the same Italian version which the countess first fell in love with.

I love the statues which decorate the facade church and are dotted along with the exterior balustrade. The perky faces of these chubby cherubs seem to welcome you in. On the frontispiece of the church are statues of various Czech saints such as St. Felix, František, Antonín and John of Nepomuk. In the central archway leading into the church is a beautifully carved emblem which represents the alliance between the families who donated money to create the church, Filip Lobkowicz and his wife, Eleonora Karolína.

Standing outside the church, take a moment to look up at the imposing bell tower above. Inside the bell tower is a carillon of 27 bells which ring every hour from 9 am to 6 pm. The bell’s musical sound was designed by famed watchmaker Peter Neumann. The bells are immovable and are rung solely by a clock mechanism. Considering this carillon was built in 1695 the technology to create such a wide range of music seems rather ahead of its time. Every hour you can hear the song, “Marian song Thousands of greetings to you” play throughout the square. On the top of the tower, see if you can spot the crowning dove which is set against a golden aureole, the symbol of the holy spirit.

Loreto Treasury

Walking into the church the first room you’ll enter is the Loreto Treasury. This area houses a collection of rare liturgical objects. Some of these historical pieces of ecclesiastical design are some of the most precious treasures in the nation. The most impressive one has to be the Diamond Monstrance, otherwise called the “Prague Sun.” A monstrance is an object designed to hold the consecrated communion wafers. The piece simply radiates with light as there are 6,222 diamonds set within it. This is what gave it the nickname of the “Prague Sun” as it seems to shine brighter than the even the sun in the sky.

Santa Casa

Head into the cloisters where you’ll find my favourite part of the church, the Santa Casa. Crammed in the center of the small grassy courtyard is the intricately carved “Santa Casa” or “Holy Hut”. The entirety building is covered in magnificent stucco reliefs which depict scenes of the life of the Virgin Mary. Set amongst the little vignettes are statues of the prophets who predicted the birth of the Virgin Mary. The structure’s shape and design is a replica of the house where the Virgin Mary lived during her life in Nazareth. You could definitely spend a good amount of time encircling the building studying all the different carvings so it’s best to find one which you are really drawn to and focus on that particular one.

On either side of the Santa Casa are two wonderfully charming fountains with huge sculptures set inside the water feature. The one of the left depicts the “Resurrection of Christ,” and the one on the right depicts the “Assumptions of the Virgin Mary.” Both of these were made by artists J. M. Bruderle and R. J. Prachner in 1738.

The cloisters surrounding the Holy Hut were built in the 18th century and contain a series of chapels dedicated to saints who protect people against disease and suffering. The most popular of these chapels is the Chapel of the Ecstasy of St. Francis. Within the chapel, you’ll find a stunning painting of the Stigmatisation of St. Francis, with the saint flying on a great chariot, painted by P. Brandl.

Church of the Nativity

Continuing onwards, we enter the main nave of the Church of the Nativity. While the church feels small, it does not feel insignificant. The interior swells with richly carved marble columns and ostentatious decorations everywhere you look. Along the perimeter of the church are several marble altars and fantastical oratories that contain precious relics. The main altar is carved from a great piece of red and white marble and features a painting of the Nativity of Christ by J. J. Heinsch set within it.

On the ceiling are a series of incredible frescoes. The scene portrays the newborn baby Jesus being worshipped by the Magi. The ceiling is painted to looks like there is an illusory gallery with a large balustrade lining the perimeter. Behind the balustrade are characters from the nativity, including the magi themselves. Above them, we can see the celestial images of God surrounded by a choir of angels who look down lovingly at the scene below.

In addition to the people, there is also a collection of exotic animals that surround the mother and newborn baby. The other vaults in the church depict moments from the childhood of Jesus in chronological order from the entrance towards the presbytery.

The Spanish saints Felicissimus and Marcis stand as wax models inside the church. Each of them dressed up in period-appropriate Spanish attire. These wax models are a form of reliquary, a container for the physical remains of the saints. Each one was modelled after the true form of the saint. They are each covered in rare fabrics, rich embroideries and precious jewels to distinguish them as holy objects. Pilgrims come from all over the world to worship in front of their models as if they were really there themselves.

The oldest artwork inside the church is the Gothic Pieta, dating back to the 15th century. She can be found in the Chapel of the Virgin Mary of Sorrows. Despite the relatively simple carving methods used here, such emotion is still found on the mother’s faces as she clutches her dead son’s body.

Novy Svet

Walking north up Kapucínská street, we come up with the steeply set Novy Svet. Novy Svet, or “New World,” is a street in Prague that seems free of the tourist hoards seen elsewhere in the city. The area dates back to the 14th century when a large ravine, previously located here, was filled in to create more housing for the workers required to support the construction of Prague Castle. On one side of the road is a thick old wall, which looks like it is barely hanging onto the hillside. Some of the stones on this wall are remnants of the old city walls, which once divided the city of Hradčany from the rest of Prague. On the opposite side of the wall are a series of beautiful houses, some dating back to the 17th century.

Church of St. John of Nepomuk

Before heading to our next stop, take a short detour, towards the Church of St. John of Nepomuk. St. John of Nepomuk is one of the most important saints in the Czech Republic. This church, therefore, holds great importance to Prague’s history. The original church built on this site was made for the Order of Voršilek. One of the nuns of the order made it her life goal to see that John of Nepomuk was made a saint.

The nun had had a lame hand for years, infected with scabies, and doctors said it could not be fixed. As the infection worsened, she was at risk of losing her hand entirely. She came to Prague, where she knew St. John was preaching and asked him to bless her. She claimed that when St. John of Nepomuk blessed her hand she was cured of the infection none of the doctors had been able to heal. This was seen as the fourth miracle performed by St. John of Nepomuk, ensuring his sainthood.

After St. John of Nepomuk was proclaimed a saint, this church was rebuilt as a cathedral in his name. In 1720 the first stone was laid. It was built in the high baroque style of the times. In a niche atop of the clock tower stands a sculptor of St. John of Nepomuk himself surrounded by angels.

But soon after its consecration in 1728, the monastery fell into great financial trouble and closed its door. The building was left abandoned and eventually used by the city as a salt warehouse until 1861. It was reconsecrated in 1902 when it returned to the ownership of the Catholic church. However, the interiors had since been ransacked and their precious treasures sold off to pay debts.

Vstup Jelení Příkop or Deer Moat

We are now headed towards the Royal Summer Palace. But instead of taking the roadway back over the eastern side of Hradcany, we will take the small, pedestrian-only pathway called Vstup Jelení Příkop or the Deer Moat. This large expanse of forest was initially a hunting ground for the royals in the early part of the 17th century where the court would hunt deer, hence the name. During this time the grounds were also used to house a variety of animal enclosures for the King’s menagerie.

Powder Bridge

Walking towards U Prašného mostu, turn to the right and stand atop the Powder Bridge. This bridge overlooks the Deer Moat and leads right into Prague Castle’s second courtyard. The first bridge installed here was built in 1535 to connect Prague Castle to the newly created Royal Gardens in the summer palace. The name of the bridge comes from the fact that during the early days of Prague Castle, the Mihulce tower, located behind the bridge, was used to store gunpowder. At the time, insulation and air-tight construction weren’t highly developed. Therefore gunpowder would often blow out the windows of the tower and land on the nearby bridge. This gave it the nickname, ‘Powder Bridge’ as more often then not dustings of gunpowder would cover the entire pathway.

The original bridge burned down in 1541. Various reconstructions were made over and over throughout the years as the bridge seemed plagued with misfortune. It was even victim to a bombing during the Prussian wars of 1757. The current stone version was made in the 18th century and still stands today.

Prague Riding School

Continue up the street until you reach the Prague Castle Riding School. This cream coloured building was built in the 17th century to teach the nobility of Prague the skills required to become adept horsemen. The baroque facade is relatively simple, with just a few stucco ornaments above the window and along the facade’s roofline. The stucco designs at the top of the building, above the doors, are carved into the shape of two jumping horses. On either side of the horses are the busts of a Turc and a blackmoor surrounded by various weapons. The original riding school was used by the nobility for horse games and tournaments. Today it is used primarily as an exhibition center.

The Royal Garden

Just up past the Riding school, you’ll find the Royal Garden entrance on your right-hand side. The Royal gardens are open to the public, so anyone can come inside and enjoy the splendours of this 16th-century lush enclosure. The gardens were designed in 1540 for Emperor Ferdinand I of Habsburg to surround his new Summer Palace. At the time of its construction, the park was one of the best examples of renaissance gardens in the Czech Republic.

When it was first built, the gardens were for the royal family’s personal use only. Here they could come to relax and play games, away from the eyes of the court and the public. Later in the 18th century, the garden was renovated to suit the new baroque style of the time. Today, the garden resembles more of a 19th-century English park where the plentiful fruit trees have been replaced with more sustainable decorative shrubs.

Royal Ball Game Hall

To the south, just after you enter the park, you’ll see a large stone building absolutely adorned in some of the most intricate sgraffito carvings. This is the old Royal Ball Game Hall. These carvings depict allegories of the four earthly elements along with images of art and science. All of these images are intertwined within floral designs making the entire piece so visually rich and eye-catching.

The Royal Ball Game Hall was built in 1597 and used as a place for nobles to gather to watch and participate in sporting activities, away from the public’s eye. During WWII, the building was burned down by the Nazis as they retreated from the allies. Thankfully it was able to be restored in 1950. If you look closely, you can see the symbols of the hammer and sickle, which were added in the 50’s when the communist party was responsible for the restorations.

Singing Fountain

In front of the Summer Palace, at the edge of the park, is a large fountain. Surrounding it are geometrically shaped garden beds, whose flowers bloom in all the colours of the rainbow in the spring and summer. The fountain is called the “Singing Fountain” as people say that the water spilling from the top of the fountain into the basin plays a little song. Listening closely to see if you can hear it. Holding up the upper basin of the fountain is a series of bronze sculptures depicting mythological gods tightly knit together.

Queen Anne’s Summer Palace

The Royal Summer Palace is also referred to as Queen Anna’s Summerhouse. The palace is named after Ferdinand I’s wife, Anna Jagiellon. The building’s facade is a fine example of Italian Renaissance architecture made by Italian architect Paolo Della Stella. The palace’s roof is especially attractive, as its curved shape was meant to resemble the bottom of a ship’s hull. The exterior of the building features 36 columns creating a beautiful arcade around the palace. In between each of the columns, are arches covered in reliefs of royal hunts, historical battles and characters from greek and roman mythology.

Sitting in the peace and quiet of the Royal Summer gardens is a perfect place to end our tour as we reach the outskirts of Hradčany. I hope you enjoyed this walk across this part of Prague.

Let me in the comments if you’ve visited Hradčany before or what part of the Prague you are most looking forward to exploring.

Happy Travels Adventurers.

The post Free Self-Guided Walking Tour of Hradčany, Prague’s Castle District first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/free-self-guided-walking-tour-of-hradcany-pragues-castle-district/feed/ 2 28 Free Ghost Tour Of Prague’s Famous Mala Strana District https://thecreativeadventurer.com/free-ghost-tour-of-pragues-famous-mala-strana-district/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=free-ghost-tour-of-pragues-famous-mala-strana-district https://thecreativeadventurer.com/free-ghost-tour-of-pragues-famous-mala-strana-district/#respond Thu, 24 Sep 2020 20:09:32 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com/?p=18524 This self-guided walking tour will take you through the legends of Prague’s Mala Strana, or ‘Little Quarter.' Whether you believe in ghosts or not, these stories are a fun way to learn about the spirits that may still haunt Prague today!

The post Free Ghost Tour Of Prague’s Famous Mala Strana District first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> Prague is truly one of the most beautiful cities in the world. But hidden behind the baroque architecture and pastel facades are mysterious stories and locations that dive into Prague’s darker side. Any city as old as this is bound to have more than a few ghost stories. Walking the streets of Prague at night, the city will change before your eyes. What was once a stunning bridge of old statues becomes and haunting silhouette. The statue’s eyes even seem to follow you as you walk. But there is something about being a little scared that is also so exciting. And a ghost tour is one of the best ways to spend an evening.

This self-guided walking tour will take you through the legends of Prague’s Mala Strana, or ‘Little Quarter.‘ Whether you believe in ghosts or not, these stories are a fun way to learn about the spirits that may still haunt Prague today!

Table Of Contents
  1. Map of Walking Tour
  2. The Ghosts of Charles Bridge
  3. The “Good” Friday Turkey
  4. Ghost of the Millers Daughter
  5. Karbourek the Water Sprite
  6. The Old Chapel of Mary Magdelene
  7. The Nailed Woman
  8. Petrin Hill
  9. The Ghosts of Pohořelec
  10. The Evil Countess of Černín Palace
  11. The Bells of Loreto Sanctuary
  12. Werewolf of Stag Moat
  13. The Ghost of the Potion Seller
  14. Vitus Spirit
  15. Spirits of Golden Lane
  16. Ghost Lady of White Tower
  17. Knight of Daliborka Tower
  18. Three Unhappy Ghosts
  19. Ghost of the Obese Merchant
  20. The Ghost with a Nail
  21. Naked Cecilie

Map of Walking Tour

The Ghosts of Charles Bridge

John of Nepomuk

The Charles Bridge is undoubtedly the most famous location in Prague. Thousands of tourists walk across the cobblestone pathway every day. But upon the stones, they tread on some of the city’s darkest history. The Charles Bridge is perhaps most infamous for being the place where St. John of Nepomuk was martyred. John of Nepomuk had been the confessor of the queen of Bohemia. When the king demanded John divulge her secrets, he denied the king. Nepomuk could not break the sacred nature of holy confession, even for the king. The king was furious and condemned Nepomuk to death for his audacity.

Nepomuk was thrown from Charles Bridge into the Vlatava River, where he drowned. Ever since that moment, the bridge was thought to be cursed by the king’s evil doings. The bridge would continually collapse into the river. Even with the most modern construction technology, any attempt to prevent destruction ended badly.

The Cursed Bridge

The Kings of Bohemia didn’t know what to do. The bridge connected the two sides of the city together. It was a crucial access point for travellers. They couldn’t simply ignore this problem. One day, an ambitious young stonemason came forward, saying he could remedy the issue. But with all of his best efforts, the bridge continued to collapse. At his wit’s end, the stonemason was worried his failure would prove fatal. He had promised the king he would be the only one to finally solve this problem.

One night while at the construction site, the devil appeared in front of the stonemason and offered him an exchange. He would ensure the bridge would never collapse if the stonemason would sacrifice the first soul who crossed the devil’s bridge. The stonemason carefully agreed.

Once the bridge was complete, the stonemason wanted to ensure no unsuspecting soul was lost. And he certainly didn’t like the soul to be his own. So, thinking he could trick the devil, he went to the market to buy an animal. He hoped to force the animal to cross the bridge, so the devil would instead take the animal’s soul.

Stonemasons Sacrifice

But the devil wasn’t so easily fooled, and he saw what the stonemason was plotting. The devil disguised himself as an old woman and went to the stonemason’s house where his pregnant wife lived. The devil, dressed as the old woman, told the stonemasons’ wife that the mason had been severely injured on the bridge. In terror for her husband’s life, the wife ran to the bridge. Seeing him on the other side, she crossed it. When the stonemason looked up to see her running across the completed bridge, he knew it was too late.

The wife went into labour early, but the child would never see the light of day. She died in childbirth, and both the mother and son’s souls would have been lost forever to the devil. In horror and riddled with guilt, the stonemason threw himself into the river and committed suicide. But after that day, the bridge never collapsed again. The contract with the devil having been fulfilled.

The Heads of Charles Bridge

Another dark story from the bridge’s past relates to the massive Bohemian revolt of 1612. During this period, the Bohemian people fought against the Habsburg rule, starting the Thirty Years War. During the uprising in Prague, 27 leaders organized a rebellion against the Habsburg Emperor. Once their plot was discovered, they were executed; twelve were beheaded, and fifteen were hanged.

This was a shocking event for the Czech people. These executed men were not just any old thief or murdered, but were highly important; professors, noblemen, scholars, and businessmen. Their heads were placed in iron baskets on the Old Town Bridge Tower. They supposedly remained there for over a decade. This scene would undoubtedly have been one of the grimmest sights to see over ten years. And souls seemed to latch themselves to the bridge itself. Today, when crossing at night, see if you can spot any brave men’s ghostly figures.

The “Good” Friday Turkey

To the left of Charles Bridge, you descend down along the water’s edge. This part of a town seems packed with evil spirits, and an otherwise charming waterway has a rather nefarious name. They call it ‘Čertovka,’ which in English means the “Devil’s Stream.” The name is supposedly derived from a nearby house, which was called ‘U semi čertů‘ or “At the Seven Devils.” Along Čertovka, you’ll find remnants of an old medieval mill. This mill used the water along the canal to power it’s waterwheel in the 12th century. 

Fiery Turkey

As you pass by the old mill, listen closely to see if you can hear the eternal squawking of the “Fiery Turkey.” On one Good Friday evening, when all the good Catholics were obligated to fast, the weak-willed miller was hungry. He loved to eat meat and, most of all, turkey. Unfortunately, he also kept a turkey as a pet. In a fit of hunger, he killed and ate his friend. 

Shortly after finishing his sinful dinner, the miller had a gall bladder attack and died right there on the spot inside the mill. When the townspeople came to see what the racket was about, they found the miller dead, with his pet turkey standing upon his belly, cackling loudly into the night. Almost as a warning to those who would think of also breaking their fast.

Ghost of the Millers Daughter

It seems as though the mill itself is a powerful dark force as a myriad of other evil tales pop up in its history. Another miller who once lived here had a beautiful but vain daughter. Despite being born into relative poverty, all she dreamed of was becoming rich and powerful. She had an idea to get an invitation to the Gentlewomen’s Ball held every year at Lichtenštejn Palace. There, the young daughter imagined she would meet a rich man and marry him, ensuring her nobility. But despite all her father’s best efforts, he could not find a way to get her an invitation to the ball as a commoner.

At her wit’s end, the daughter made a deal with the devil. He agreed to give her an invitation to the ball in exchange for her soul. But even with this supernatural intervention, no one inside would dance or pay her any mind. She was still a miller’s daughter. This flagrant disregard and knowing what she had done to her soul for naught caused the daughter to fall into a fit of rage, and she was expelled from the palace by the guards. 

Lichtenštejn Palace

The miller’s daughter never got over the ordeal and died inside the nearby mill in a state of madness. But the devil doesn’t forget, and her ghost is said to return to the Lichtenštejn Palace to do the devil’s bidding. People claim that they have seen her rude ghost chasing after young men during festive events, wailing as she goes. While she might simply pursue the men, she is outwardly violent towards young, beautiful, and mostly wealthy women. They represent everything she had been so desperate to have and sold her soul to achieve. She has been known to attack women, bite and scatch them until they can get away. She haunts the palace around midnight so keep your wits about you if you pass by around that time.

Karbourek the Water Sprite

If you see a strange creature with his feet resting in the water asking for a beer, near the Devil’s Stream, you might have run into Karbourek, the Water Sprite. The sprite visited Prague hundreds of years ago. It was once a cheerful creature, indulging in drinks with other drunkards in Mala Strana. He was peaceful and kindhearted, and bartenders would leave him a glass of beer whenever they saw him. 

But as time has gone on and bars have closed or have forgotten the legend, the sprite has turned tasty. Karbourek lurks around in the river but will surface every so often when he gets thirsty for beer. Unless you have a drink to offer the creature, it’s best to stay away. If you spot the sprite and offer him a beer, he is known to reward those good samaritans with a pike or eel from the river. Karbourek has become so famous in this area that there is even a wooden statue created in his likeness on the mill’s edge.

The Old Chapel of Mary Magdelene

Along Karmelitska Street, you’ll find the Czech Museum of Music, which is now home to more than one of Prague’s infamous ghosts. In the 17th-century, the building was originally the convent of St. Mary Magdalene. But this convent was home to some truly cruel nuns and one in particular. In life, this nun was in charge of taking children from their mothers. This started innocently enough. The nuns aimed to help unwed mothers give up their babies to find good, “proper” homes. 

Perhaps influenced by the darkness that lurked in the nearby Devils stream, the nuns were soon corrupted by greed. They began selling the children of these unwed mothers off into indentured servitude or workhouses and kept the money from themselves. They were known to host ostentatious and lavish parties with their earning. Their greed seemed unquenchable. Eventually, one of the cruellest of the nuns began tricking mothers into giving up their babies. If she was there during the birth, she would claim the baby was stillborn, even if it was not and then quickly sell the newborn off for coin. If that didn’t work, she would even resort to kidnapping children. 

The Nun’s Ghost

When the nun finally died, her soul was damned forever, and her ghost still lurks these streets, unable to ever find peace. They say only children can see her, so if you spot a child speaking to no one, be sure to rush them away as her ghost is still known to spirit away children, never to be seen again.

In the 18th century, the convent was deconsecrated, and the building was used as housing for the poor. Many actors and actresses moved into the apartments as the rent was cheap and close to nearby theatres. One of these actresses is known better known as the “headless ghost of Mala Strana.” In life, she was one of the most beautiful women in Prague. Her husband was a jealous man and hated watching her performances filled with dozens of love-struck admirers. His jealousy reached a peak point when the actress courted a rich count after her show. When she came home, her husband promptly cut off her head in a resentful fit of rage. Now her ghost haunts the building, looking endlessness for her lost head, the source of all her beauty.

The Nailed Woman

Further along, Karmelitská Street is a wicked looking ghost known to stick her tongue out at affluent visitors. The story goes that the woman, Mrs. Kuliček, was once the wife of a great city. The two lived together on Karmelitská Street. Mr. Kuliček had made a good living as an official of public health while he was alive. But when he died suddenly, he left his wife with little money, save for their home. Mrs. Kuliček had no practical skills to speak of, as most women were just housekeepers. She was too old to remarry and quickly running out of money to keep the lifestyle she had become used to. 

Seeing no other option, Mrs. Kuliček turned their large apartments into a giant brothel. Since the house was located in a reasonably well to do part of town, it would garner higher-end clientele. But Mrs. Kuliček, now the establishment’s madam, wasn’t too decerning about who she let service the men inside the brothel. As the wife of a public health official, you would have thought she would have been more aware of women who carried disease, but Mrs. Kuliček cared only for money!

Prague’s Brothels

One very wealthy man came and asked him to be greeted by a “pure” woman. Most brothel workers were plagued with “social diseases,” such as syphilis and gonorrhea. The madam took the man’s money anyway, tricking one of her employees into lying to the nobleman about her purity.

When the wealthy nobleman came down with syphilis a few weeks later, he was furious. Syphilis was incurable, and he knew he would die in a short matter of time. He broke into the apartments and tied the woman’s hands behind her back and nailed her tongue to the bedroom door to punish her “sinful tongue.” When he left, he hung a “quarantine” sign above the door so no one would enter and find the poor woman. She died inside of her wounds, a slow horrible death. If you see Mrs. Kuliček pass you by and stick out her tongue, look closely. You might be horrified to see that nail is still stuck right through her tongue!

Petrin Hill

Head up Hellichova street, towards Petrin Hill and proceed up hillside pathway. This peaceful park is truly haunting at night when the sun goes down, and only a few lamps and the moonlight are there to guide your way. Petrin Hill, hundreds of years ago, was home to a pagan altar. Here, pagans would sacrifice young, beautiful virgins to their gods, burning them alive atop the altar. When Prince Boleslav came to power in Bohemia, his aim was to eradicate any of the remaining pagans who refused to convert to Christianity, despite being raised by a pagan mother himself. 

The Petrin Hill altar was destroyed, and a great Christian cathedral was even built nearby to further rub salt in the wound. But the ghosts of the pagans and those women burned alive still haunt the hill to mock Prince Boleslav. Self-contained fires are known to break out along the hill and burn mysteriously without any remains being found afterwards. Faces have been seen in the fires, laughing maniacally at the viewer. The fires last about 20 minutes, and then they disappear, so keep your eyes peeled as you go!

The Ghosts of Pohořelec

Along Pohořelec street, near Strahov Monastery, keep your eyes peeled for a headless ghost followed by a hound with someone curious in its mouth… This duo’s legend is a classic tale of greed and betrayal. A beautiful, young woman married an old, ugly but wealthy man. Soon after their marriage was official, the woman began plotting to kill her husband and steal his riches. He came home one day, and she took an axe to his head. But the man had had suspicions about her from the start, and when he died, she had found that the man had hidden all his gold. The woman died in poverty but came back as a hound who drags the headless man’s head around, taunting him into finally revealing the secret treasure’s location.

The Evil Countess of Černín Palace

Černín Palace was once home to one of the cruellest countesses Prague has ever known. Although she might not have committed any murders, her truly selfish and abusive behaviour towards her fellow citizens was abominable. Černín Palace, now home to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, was built in the 1660s by diplomat Humprecht Jan Černín z Chudenic, the Habsburg imperial ambassador to Venice and Rome. Chudenic was incredibly vain and saw himself as more important than even the emperor. He built his palace in a location that was just higher up than Prague Castle, making his palace almost more grand than the royal court itself.

Chudenic was also a stingy man and refused to sign any contract or agree to pay until the work was finished. This was perhaps more common back in the day before labours laws were put in place to protect the blue-collar workers. But when Chudenic died, suddenly, there was no one left who had had contact with the construction crew and knew that they were owed a large sum of money. So, left with no other choice, the workers contacted a local medium who performed a seance to bring the spirit of Chudenic back from the dead. He was raised up and forced to sign the contracts from the beyond, so work on the palace could be finished, and the workers were finally paid. Perhaps this seance opened the door to the other world, and many speculate this connection was never properly closed.

The Countess

Chudenics’ daughter became the countess of the palace. She was known to dramatically flaunt her wealth. She would bath in litres and litres of milk when milk was considered one of the most expensive imports. When the great famine of 1770 broke out in Bohemia, she had shoes made of bread that she would wear out on the town, to mock the starving peasants. Even the devil was shocked by her outright cruelty and sent nine of his demons through the open gateway to punish her. 

One night, as she danced down the halls of her ostentatious palace in her bread shoes, the nine demons dragged her to hell for neglecting those in need. People claim you can still hear her blood-curdling screams down the palace’s halls as she is forced to dance for eternity in those uncomfortable bread shoes. Her ghost is known mainly to visit at midnight when the palace is closed to the public. But even so, be warned; never dance with her as she will drag you both back down to the underworld.

The Bells of Loreto Sanctuary

Across the street from the Černín Palace is the Loreto Sanctuary. Built in 1626, the Loreta Sancturay is a holy place of pilgrimage most famous for its clock tower and carillon. But before the church was built, legend has it that this site was once a pagan altar where one of the greatest pagan priestesses of Prague, Princess Drahomíra of Stodor, was sucked down into the netherworld. Like Černín Palace, this marked this site as a place where spirits are known to cross over.

27 bells in total were installed in the tower in 1694. A woman who lived nearby the church thought it exceptionally lucky as she had exactly 27 children. She named each of the bells after one of her children, the largest corresponding to her eldest child and each subsequent smaller bell to her other children. Legend has it during the great plague of 1713, the women’s eldest daughter fell ill to the disease. The mother went to the church in distress and placed one silver coin in the prayer box and prayed for her daughter’s life. As she sat there, the largest of the bells rang out, and when the mother got home, her eldest daughter was dead.

The Bell Tolls

The same pattern continued for each of her children, one would fall ill, and she would go to the church, place a silver coin in the prayer box, and the bell corresponding to that child would die. This happened until all her children were dead. The woman was racked with grief, and when she lay dying in her bed, moments before she closed her eyes forever, all the bells rang at once despite no one being in the tower to ring them. Many locals believe this was her children calling their mother to heaven. Although this ghost story isn’t as macabre as the others, every time the bells ring, you can sense something otherwordly in the air.

Werewolf of Stag Moat

Just outside Prague castle is a great park called the ‘Stag Moat.’ It is a natural ravine, which was a famous breeding ground for deer during the 17th century. However, the urbanization of the city has dramatically reduced the deer’s population. Although the park is only open in the summer season, standing on the bridge on the ramparts of Prague Castle is a beautiful place to take the scenery.

One of the legends of the Stag Moat is that of the werewolf of Prague. When Rudolf II ruled, he turned the moat into a wild animal menagerie. He kept deer, elk, wild boar and many birds inside the park so that his court could hunt in the grounds just across from their castle. But his tastes for the exotic got the best of him. Inside the park, he also kept lions and bears in cages with viewing platforms surrounding them so the court could come and observe them in captivity. One day, a few mysterious grey wolves were added to the menagerie.

The Wolves of the Moat

The gameskeeper and his mute assistant looked after the animals as well as the new additions, the wolves. Right away, it was noticeable that the assistant took extra special care of the wolves. Despite not being able to speak with humans, the apprentice started to howl at night with the wolves. He was even seen sleeping in their pens from time to time. The gameskeeper came to work one day and couldn’t find his assistant but curiously, there were now three wolves in the cell where there had only been two before. The gameskeeper was puzzled but thought the only answer was that a lone wolf had perhaps come to find two of his lost pack members.

Soon after the third wolf arrived, the wolves ban to escape their pen at night and began attacking some of the other royal pets. Despite the gamekeeper trying to recapture them, they always manage to get out, almost as if they had grown fingers to open their cage. One day the wolves managed to find their way out of the moat and were never seen again. Rumours of attacks throughout the countryside were rampant. People said they had seen two wolves and a man with wolves’ bodies attacking animals and people all across the country.

The Ghost of the Potion Seller

Another famous legend of Stag Moat is that of the ghost of the travelling potion seller. The lion master who worked in the menagerie was a cruel and greedy man. Rudolf II loved his lions and considered them one of his most prized possessions, so she spared no expense in their care. But instead of feeding the lions, the high-quality meat they were sent by the palace, the lion master sold the meat and kept the money for himself. Instead, he would feed the lions whatever rotten scarps he could put together.

One day, a poor travelling potion seller walked by the lion’s cages and collapsed in front of the lion master, begging for his help. Just a scrap of food was all he needed to get his strength back. But the lion master refused, and the man was dead in minutes. Seeing an opportunity, the lion master threw the poor potion seller into the cage, where the ravenous lions devoured him.

The Potion Masters Ghost

The lion master returned the next day and saw the potion seller’s ghost standing in front of the cages. The lion master was terrified at spotting the spirit returning from the grave to haunt the sinful man. Riddled with guilt, the man hung himself from bars of the lion’s cages. Today, around the time when the lions would have been fed, you can still see the ghost of the travelling potion seller wandering the moat. Warning others to be kind to those in need.

Vitus Spirit

There have been sightings outside St. Vitus cathedral of a ghostly figure looming over the building. In the 18th century, a soldier patrolling the grounds saw the white figure and approached it, thinking it was an intruder. The figure threw a handful of wheat at his feet and disappeared. The next day, another solider saw the same figure, and this time had a coin tossed down before the figure disappeared. On the third night, warned by the other two, the next soldier was on guard, and when the figure appeared, he shot it on the spot. This time, the spirit tossed the bullet that had been fired straight at him back at the soldier’s feet. The three items were thought to be an omen of the future three years for the city.

In the next year, the crops were plentiful. The year after, the city was flush with wealth from the sale of all that grain. But, in the third year, the Seven Years Wars began, and many of its citizens lost their lives. Just as the spirit had predicted, wheat a symbol of agricultural abundance, coins the symbol for wealth and the bullet a symbol for death and war.

Spirits of Golden Lane

Many people claim that Golden Lane is home to some guardian spirits, which were once tied to this area of town during the pagan era. Emperor Charles IV wrote in his memories that he had seen one of these creatures throw a golden cup across his table in the middle of the night. When he asked his staff about this vision, they all told him various stories of small creatures they had also seen around Golden Lane.

If you spot a black cat along this street, be sure to give it a kind stroke. This is said to be the spirit of a young girl who once lived with her father along Golden Lane. The poor girl threw herself off a bridge after her father had murdered her lover. It’s a classic tale of a young girl wanting to marry someone their family disapproves of. But this father took it a little bit too far by murdering her beloved.

Cats of Golden Lane

After the young woman found out about her lover, she threw herself off the nearby bride but returns to her father’s house along Golden Lane every night like a cat. Cats are a symbol of rebirth and resurrection, and perhaps this girl was granted another one of her nine lives. She haunts the street in the hopes of getting revenge on her father and searches for him in all the houses along the lane.

Ghost Lady of White Tower

The White Tower in Prague Castle, located at the west end of Golden Lane, was used as a prison for noblemen since 1584. One of the most famous prisoners was Katerina Bechynova, the wife of the count of Karlstejn. After finally being arrested and charged with the murder of 14 people, she was brought to the tower. Most of the victims were young female serfs, which had been under her employment. 

Some people say the number was probably more like 30 people. She admitted to the killings and even admitted to torturing her serfs by cutting them with knives and pouring salt into the wounds. She was placed in the bottom of the tower and forced to starve, a slow agonizing death. Her angry ghost is known to haunt this tower and was seen almost right after her death. Curiously, only a few days after she died, the judge who sentenced her also died mysteriously, perhaps killed by the ghost herself.

Knight of Daliborka Tower

The other prisoner Tower in Prague castle is Daliborka Tower. This tower is slightly older, dating back to 1496 and was used as a prison until 1781. The first inmate, and the future ghost, was Dalibor of Kozojedy. Dalibor of Kozojedy was a brave knight of the realm. Seeing the plight of some rebellious serfs who had been made homeless, he invited them into his palace, where he hid and cared for them. Despite the knight’s kindness, this was considered a crime against the realm, as these serfs were “traitors.” Dalibor was arrested and placed in the newly built tower. 

While awaiting his trial, he was allowed to bring a few items with him to his prison cell as he was a noble prisoner. He brought with him a violin and started to learn to play it. He became a very skilled violinist as he had nothing else to do. People would even come to the tower to listen to his beautiful music. The people of Prague came to love his music and also believed he should be freed for his valiant acts. The court knew they had to execute him but did so in secret to avoid a public outcry. The public only knew that he had been killed when the music finally stopped. On some cold, silent nights, people claim to still hear his music play across the wind as it whips through the tower.

Three Unhappy Ghosts

At #20 Valdštejnská Street, marked by a golden sun symbol, you might see the “Three Unhappy Ghosts of Prague.” Although they are most known to frequent the streets at Chrismas time, there is always a chance you might see them out during other times of the year. The story goes that a loving couple named Lubomír and Klára lived in this apartment once upon a time. But in 1914, when war brought out, Lubomír was sent to the front lines. Soon after he left for Translyvania, Klára received a note saying that her husband had been killed in battle. She was devastated and mourned for a year but soon fell in love with a new man, Vojtěch. Vojtěch was a coward and of poor health and was not seen fit to go off to war. He moved into the house, and the two lived happily together once more.

Klara’s Ghost

But one day, Klára answered the door to find her husband standing there in front of her. Apparently, some wires had gotten crossed, and Lubomír wasn’t dead at all but had been severely injured and had been in hospital this entire time. His face was pale and white, and his body frail from being in bed for so long. He looked so ghastly Klára thought he was a ghost. She screamed and fled, but in her shock, crashed into a shelf in the kitchen, which fell on top of her, and she was crushed to death. Lubomír was appalled to see his wife flee but even more shocked to see Vojtěch inside the house in his pyjamas.

Vojtěch, seeing his new wife dead on the floor, lived up to his reputation and fled as well. But he also tripped running up the stairs and fell, breaking his neck. Lubomír, who had a reputation of having a bad temper, thought for sure he would be blamed for their deaths and shot himself there in the hallway. Today the three ghosts bicker as they walk the streets of Prague, arguing about who is Klára’s rightful husband and who is responsible for their deaths.

Ghost of the Obese Merchant

Lookout along Valdštejnská street for a sad-looking obese man, who wanders these streets aimlessly. He is known as the “Ghost of the Obese Merchant.” In life, the wealthy merchant would gorge himself every night, even though hundreds of people were starving to death around him. He was known to come into the pub and order three or four meals all to himself. 

One night a poor young beggar went into the pub and asked if the merchant might think of sparing just a bit of his food to share with the beggar. The merchant laughed in his face, and the beggar left. Furious, the beggar cursed the man that he would eat until he exploded. Which is what they claim happened. That he blew up right there in the pub. However, I think its more plausible to imagine his stomach was what exploded, not himself entirely. Today his ghost haunts the streets, trapped in his uncomfortable, obese body. His soul will only be freed when a poor, homeless person will pity him and share some of their food with the ghost.

The Ghost with a Nail

Along Tomášská Street, there was once an old locksmith’s workshop. The locksmith was old and well off but lonely. One day, a man came to the locksmith and offered up his young daughter for marriage. He was desperate to get rid of the girl and thought this would be a good match. The locksmith agreed, as did the girl. She wasn’t pleased about the match but was happy to get out of the house and move on with her life. She figured the old man wouldn’t live too long anyway, and soon she would inherit his wealth and would be able to remarry. 

The locksmith took on an apprentice, for whom the young wife took a liking to immediately. That winter, a flu epidemic struck the city of Prague. When people heard that the locksmith had died, they thought nothing of it as so many others had fallen ill to the disease. Nor did they make a fuss when the young woman remarried his apprentice; people merely thought of it as a good match as the two had spent so much time together and were most likely in communal morning. 

Burials in Prague

When people were buried in Prague hundreds of years ago, their families had to pay a yearly fee to keep them underground. If you didn’t pay up, the body was dug up, thrown in a mass grave, and someone new would take that grave spot. When the young wife was sick of paying for her dead husband’s grave, he was dug up, but upon seeing his body, the gravediggers noticed that he had a huge nail stuck right into his head! No doubt what had really killed him. In the clamour of collecting bodies during the epidemic, no one had thought to check if this old man had indeed died of natural causes. The young apprentice and his wife were arrested and hung for their crimes. The ghost of the locksmith still wanders Tomášská Street and is most notable for the giant nail, which still sticks out of his head.

Naked Cecilie

The last ghost we will search out for tonight is Cecilie, who goes by the name “Naked Cecilie.” Cecilie married Mr. Vondřich, a well to do government clerk who lived on Sněmovní street. One night he came from work early to surprise his beloved wife with a bottle of wine and some delicious cheese. When he walked in the door, he found her naked in bed with a young dandy.  

Mr. Vondřich flew into a blind rage and stabbed the dandy to death with his cheese knife. Cecilie was horrified and jumped out the window; she forgot to put on any clothes in such haste. She ran onto the streets of Sněmovní street, still stark naked. It was a brutally, cold and windy winter’s night, and everyone had their windows and doors shut tight. She ran around, knocking on doors to see if anyone would let her in and escape her rageful husband. But everyone who heard the knocks at the door simply thought it was the wind, and she was left out in the cold.

The next day, the city guards found her frozen to death in the centre of the road, clutching her naked form. Cecilie still walks the street, trying to cover her nude body, hoping that a kind husband will offer up his coat to hide her shame. Only then will hear soul be finally freed.

This brings us to the end of the tour. I hoped you enjoyed the stories you heard tonight. Whether you are a believer in this sort of stuff or not, I hope you found something exciting about walking the streets of the Little Quarter at night when this part of the city takes on an entirely different atmosphere and air of mystery.

Happy travels, Adventurers!

The post Free Ghost Tour Of Prague’s Famous Mala Strana District first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/free-ghost-tour-of-pragues-famous-mala-strana-district/feed/ 0 18524 The Top Ten Things to See on a Walking Tour of Prague’s Golden Lane https://thecreativeadventurer.com/the-top-ten-things-to-see-on-a-walking-tour-of-pragues-golden-lane/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=the-top-ten-things-to-see-on-a-walking-tour-of-pragues-golden-lane https://thecreativeadventurer.com/the-top-ten-things-to-see-on-a-walking-tour-of-pragues-golden-lane/#respond Wed, 02 Jan 2019 17:19:28 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//the-top-ten-things-to-see-on-a-walking-tour-of-pragues-golden-lane/ Golden Lane is one of Prague's most picturesque streets. Located inside Prague Castle, this fairytale like laneway of pastel coloured homes was built in the castle's fortifications at the end of the 16th century. To access the Golden Lane, you need to purchase a ticket for Prague Castle. Almost every different circuit ticket includes the Golden Lane and for a good reason, since no visit to Prague castle is complete without visiting Golden Lane.

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]]> Golden Lane is one of Prague’s most picturesque streets. Located inside Prague Castle, this fairytale-like laneway of pastel-coloured homes was built in the castle’s fortifications at the end of the 16th century. To access Golden Lane, you must purchase a Prague Castle ticket. Almost every different circuit ticket includes the Golden Lane, and for a good reason, since no visit to Prague castle is complete without visiting Golden Lane.

Table Of Contents
  1. History
  2. Admission and Access
  3. House 20
  4. Franz Kafka House
  5. House 12
  6. House 13
  7. House 14
  8. House 15
  9. House 16
  10. House 23
  11. House 27
  12. Medieval Armoury

History

In 1597, the marksmen who guarded the castle’s fortifications wanted a place to live nearby. They didn’t want to walk back to Lower Town every day after their shift was over, and being nearby would mean faster response to any attackers. The emperor permitted them to build their homes on the small piece of land now the Golden Lane. But there were 24 marksmen and a lack of space for large enough houses. The miniature houses were constructed in the mannerist style out of stone, mud and wood – all cheap materials which would have been abundant to these marksmen.

Eventually, the row became home to more than just marksmen. Both rich and poor people lived here, as their proximity to the castle made it the perfect location to best serve the monarchy. There were artists, clerks, footmen, and more living along this narrow road. An extensive renovation was done to the lane in the 1950s after WWII, and only 11 historic houses remain today. The houses on the street no longer house residents of Prague but contain souvenir shops and little exhibits which display what life was like in the lane over the last 500 years.

The street gets its name from the famous alchemist who once lived here during the reign of Rudolf II. This alchemist was obsessed with creating the philosopher’s stone, the elixir of youth and most of all, trying to turn cheap metals into gold! He was never successful himself, but stories of his attempts lived on. In the 20th century, an old doctor of philosophy spent his life savings collecting old books on magic and went about secret experiments in his house on Golden Lane.

One day, neighbours heard an explosion and came running. His house was on fire, and when firefighters finally could extinguish the blaze, they found the old man dead inside, clutching a large piece of gold in his hand. Perhaps he finally accomplished what all those alchemists before him were attempting to do, as no one could understand how else he would have come to own such a large, expensive piece of gold.

Admission and Access

Access to the Golden Lane can be gained only with a Prague Castle admission ticket. You can access the Golden Lane on either circuit A or B. It is open from November – March from 9am – 2pm and from April – October from 9am – 5pm.

House 20

The only house retained with a Renaissance appearance is house #20, with its original dark brown pieces of framing, which can be seen from the exterior.

Franz Kafka House

Many famous people have lived here throughout the years. Be sure to stop by house #22, the blue house, which was once home to Czech-born, German-language novelist Franz Kafka. Although the interior of this house is one of the most disappointing since it’s now nothing more than a cheesy souvenir shop.

House 12

House #12 was owned by film historian and collector Josef Kazda. This was my favourite house on the lane. Inside are hundreds of posters from old Czech films and piles of film canisters littering the floor. Kazda saved many films which were supposed to be destroyed by the Nazis in WWII, and his house became a kind of warehouse to keep these pieces of history safe.

House 13

House #13 is the residence of the red artilleryman. It’s a recreation of the home of one of the many guards who protected the castle. Inside you can find his bed, original guard uniform, and their humble cottage kitchen.

House 14

House #14 once belonged to the psychic Madame de Thebes, who lived here in the 20th century. She predicted the downfall of the Third Reich and was eventually arrested and tortured to death by the Gestapo for her predictions, which, as we all know, finally came true. This house now hosts items favoured by fortune tellers, like tarot cards, skulls and books on astrology.

House 15

House #15 contains an exhibition dedicated to the goldsmith’s workshop. In addition to living in these houses, many craftsmen used them as studios. Inside this little house, you’ll find a small Renaissance desk, goldsmith tools, an outfit that such craftsmen would have worn during the period, and various other items of decor that such a man would have owned.

House 16

House #16 is a recreation of the kinds of tavern inns that would have served the Golden Lane and Prague Castle residents in the Renaissance period. A dimly lit bedroom, surrounded in rich animal furs and jugs of ale, surrounds the bedside.

House 23

House #23 is a goldsmith’s workshop. Displaying antique jewelry both on the exterior and interior, there is a myriad of tools of the goldsmith’s trade on display. A fur apron sits on the chair, as it was used to catch any of those precious flecks of fold the smith would be working with. One can only imagine the kinds of requests these goldsmiths would be making for the Kings and Queens of Bohemia and their court.

House 27

House #27 contains an exhibition dedicated to herbalists. Herbalists were the doctors, pharmacists, dermatologists and makeup artists of the 15th century. They cured diseases, healed wounds and served both the rich and poor. Their materials consisted mostly of flowers, powders, seeds and spices. Inside you also have a modern-day beauty products shop selling all sorts of natural creams and tonics made in the Czech Republic from regional ingredients. I’d seen this brand elsewhere in the city, but buying it in the old home of the original herbalists felt extra special.

Medieval Armoury

At the end of the lane, one of the houses houses a medieval armoury and textile displays. Visitors can even try shooting a crossbow in the makeshift range they’ve set up inside. Although this little street might seem inconsequential against the majesty of St. Vitus Cathedral or the Royal Residences, seeing how the everyday people who built the foundations of the city lived, is truly an eye-opening experience.

Prague’s Golden Lane is a must for any traveller. From its vibrant and well-preserved medieval architecture to its historical significance and rich cultural heritage, the Golden Lane offers a unique and unforgettable experience. Whether you’re a history buff, an architecture lover, or just looking for a fun and immersive day out, the top ten sights on this walking tour are sure to captivate and delight.

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]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/the-top-ten-things-to-see-on-a-walking-tour-of-pragues-golden-lane/feed/ 0 692 The Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Prague https://thecreativeadventurer.com/self-guided-walking-tour-of-prague/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=self-guided-walking-tour-of-prague https://thecreativeadventurer.com/self-guided-walking-tour-of-prague/#comments Fri, 29 Sep 2017 20:38:00 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//self-guided-walking-tour-of-prague/ One our first day in Prague we set out with our fantastic tour guide Barbora, from Prague Guides, who met us at our hotel and took us on a comprehensive tour of Prague from local's perspective. Prague Guides were so affordable and gave you an intimate and personalised experience that is unmatchable.

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Walking Tour of Prague first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> The beautiful and historic city of Prague is best known for its stunning architecture, rich culture, and awe-inspiring museums. Prague is the perfect destination for anyone looking for a mix of history, art and architecture. And the best way to see it all is one foot! Unlike other European cities, Prague is easily explored by walking, and you can walk from one end of the city to the other easily in one day! Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a seasoned traveller, our self-guided tour will take you on a journey through some of the city’s most iconic landmarks, hidden gems, and local hotspots. So, put on your walking shoes and join us as we explore this enchanting city on foot.

Table Of Contents
  1. Map of the Walking Tour
  2. Můstek Metro Stop
  3. Jungmann Square
  4. Church of Our Lady of the Snows
  5. Lucerna
  6. Wenceslas Square
  7. The Karolinum
  8. Powder Tower
  9. Municipal House
  10. The Basilica of St. James
  11. Old Town Square
  12. Church of Our Lady
  13. Astronomical Clock
  14. Lunch Time
  15. The Jewish Quarter
  16. The Spanish Synagogue
  17. Rudolfinum Concert Hall
  18. Charles Bridge
  19. Malá Strana
  20. Prague Castle
  21. St. Nicholas Church
  22. Lennon Wall
  23. Kampa Island

Map of the Walking Tour

Můstek Metro Stop

We start our tour at the Můstek metro stop. This location marks the old border between the old town and new city. Můstek in Czech means Bridge. The reasons it is so named is because, upon excavation of this area, they found the remains of an old bridge, a moat and a steep wall. On the wall leading into the church courtyard, you can still see old carvings left on the remnants of the medieval wall.

In the centre of the square, you’ll see a beautiful lamppost shaped in cubist zigzags. This cubist architecture and decorative design can be found all over Prague and was a uniquely Czech form of art. Although it was only in vogue for a brief time, it leaves a powerful and lasting impression on those who view it.

Jungmann Square

Walking down Jungmannova street from Mustek station, you come to Jungmann Square. Across from the square is Adria Palace, now a large shopping plaza and business centre, the palace is one of the most important architectural monuments in the city. Built in 1923 by architect Josef Zasche it represents the uniquely Czech form of architecture, Rondocubism.

Rondocubism is famous for geometric edges, cubes and pyramids complimented by Slavic icons of design like crescents and circles. The building is also decorated with sculptures by Josef Malínský. The sculptures peek out from under the canopied doorways and flank either side of the beautiful windows that surround and the facade.

In the centre of the Josef Jungmann Square is a statue of the man himself. Josef Jungmann was a critical figure to the Czech people as he was a talented writer who revolutionised the Czech language. Initially, the Czech language was seen as simple and only for the peasants, but Josef, with his incredible writing, took the language from peasant to poets.

Church of Our Lady of the Snows

On the opposite side of the Square, is the Church of Our Lady of the Snows. Emperor Charles IV originally founded the church in 1347. In 1603 the church was donated by Emperor Rudolf II to the Franciscan monastery and therein became a Franciscan church.

Although the church itself is something to behold, the Franciscan Gardens, behind the church are where the real life of the Czech people lies. The Franscians believed that God could be found in nature and as such, their gardens were a vital part of their worship. The gardens are open all year round and unlike the stuffy and imposing church, it is full of everyday people, laughing in the playground, making conversation on the benches and relaxing among the manicured trees.

A French Baroque garden was designed for the church, along with a pavilion, walled fence and herb garden which the members of the clergy would tend to. There are rows and rows of roses and a sculptural fountain in the centre of the garden. Behind the busy city, this place feels like an oasis and is a hidden gem that many don’t even know is there.

Lucerna

After strolling through the gardens, head through the Lucerna Arcade to access Wenceslas Square. But don’t rush the journey! These arcades are some of the most beautiful art-nouveau arcades from Prague’s history. Inside these covered throughways are shops, cafes and hidden treasures.

The arcade is located between Štěpánská and Vodičkova street. Inside the arcade in addition to shops and cafes, you’ll even find a cinema! They play both Czech and English films and if you’re lucky you will be able to see your movie inside the original art-nouveau theatre. The seats aren’t the most comfortable, but the atmosphere is everything.

David Černý’s sculpture Kun 

In front of the theatre hangs, and you can’t miss it, artist David Černý’s sculpture Kun (which means Horse in Czech). The piece was created in 1999 and is the counterpart to the equestrian statue of St. Wenceslas square. The artist never made clear the meaning of the sculpture but it is thought to be a reference to the president at the time and the fact he hung out to dry the Czech people.

Novák Arcade

Beside the Lucerna Arcade, you’ll find the Novák Arcade. This arcade is another example of incredible art-nouveau design complete with a sparkling mosaic of Czech daily life on the interior.

Wenceslas Square

As you exit the arcade, you come up upon Wenceslas Square. Wenceslas Square was at one point in medieval times, the Horse Market, where farmers would come to sell their horses to the King’s Guard and local merchants. It was officially named Wenceslas square in 1848. Saint Wenceslas is the patron saint of Bohemia and as such, is an important figure for the Czech people. It is for this reason that this square is such an important place for the Czech people to meet and political rallies have been held. At the south-east corner of the plaza is the neoclassical Czech National Museum and on the other side is the border to New Town and the Old Town.

This square has been the site of many important events, some good and some a stain to the history of this city. The Nazi’s used this square for one of their many demonstrations and in 1969, a student, Jan Palach, set himself on fire to protest of the invasion of the Soviet Union in Prague. His actions set off national revolution, and he is memorialized on the square today. When the Czech hockey team defeated the USSR at the World Championship, 1500,000 people met here to celebrate their win as the underdog. And, most importantly, in 1989, the Velvet Revolution was started here with hundreds of Czechs rising against their government forming the free state of the Czech Republic as it stands today.

Prague Architecture

Surrounding the square are some of the most incredible buildings in Prague, representing all different kinds of architectural styles. You’ll see neo-gothic, neo-renaissance and neo-baroque. There’s also an abundance of art nouveau architecture with its sensual curves and bright colours. Then there is the structured and grey lines of functionalism. In the mid-20th century, the Soviet rule was form follows function and not the other way around. Look over at the Hotel Jalta for an example of this rigid style of design.

Rytířská street

After continuing down Wenceslas Square, turn up Rytířská street. As you walk up the street, turn onto Železná and you’ll see three iconic buildings facing each other. The Estates Theatre, the Church of St Havel and the Karolinum.

The Estates Theatre was built in the 18th century by designer Anton Haffenecker. The building was designed in the neoclassical style and is still today preserved in near original state. Above the portal to the theatres, there is a motto inscribed above the door that says “Patriae et Musis” which translates into, “To the Native Land and the Muses”. A very fitting phrase to keep in your mind as you enter through the doors to be transported by the productions that lie within. The building remains the only theatre left standing where Mozart performed. In 1791, Mozart’s La Clemenza di Tito was staged in public here for the first time.

The Church of St Havel

The Church of St Havel is one of the best examples of baroque architecture and furnishings in Prague and is worth a peek in the doors if you’re interesting in Baroque Art. The church was established in 1232, but it’s Baroque architectural facade was built in 1723. Inside you’ll find works of art such as the famous “Calvary” by Ferdinand Brokoff.

The Karolinum

The Karolinum is a series of buildings that makes up the seat of Charles University, established by Emperor Charles IV. Charles was obsessed with the new universities popping up in all the other great cities of Europe and wanted Prague to have a national college where they could grow the minds of their students. These buildings contain some of the oldest dormitories in Europe, and one can only imagine how cool it would be to live in such a historical building.

Ovocný trh

Continue walking down Ovocný trh. Take a leisurely stroll and admire all the incredible facades of these noble houses.

Once more, walking along this street, you can pick out a hodgepodge of architectural styles. From Baroque to Cubist to functionalism. Together they are like a patchwork quilt of Prague’s artistic past. Take your time on this quiet little lane. There are so many details to admire. It’s very rare to come upon a street this full of history in Prague that isn’t littered in tourists.

Cafe Orient

At the end of the street, before turning back onto the main road, you’ll come upon the Cafe Orient. The Cafe Orient represents that unique cubist architecture and decor that was so rampant in Prague in the early 20th century. Josef Gočár designed the Cafe in 1912. Every little detail in this establishment has flourishes of cubist stylings, from the lampshades to coat hooks, you’re transported to another era once you step in the door. Even just standing outside you can see how this stylists form of architecture and decor was so becoming and captured the minds of so many young Czechs.

Powder Tower

As you turn the corner from the Cafe Orient, you’ll see off in the distance a looming, black gothic tower. This is the Powder Tower, a remnant of the old city, dating back to the 11th century. The tower was not used as protection but rather as an attractive entrance for guests to pass through when they entered the town.

At one time, the tower was used to store gunpowder and get its official name from the massive amounts stored there. Although the tower suffered damage through some of the battles fought within the city most of its original structure has remained. Only the statues and ornamentation had to be replaced or restored.

Municipal House

Beside the Powder Tower stands the Art Nouveau gem called the Obecní dům or Municipal House. If you are feeling thirsty or want to rest your legs, this is a perfect stop. Although mostly frequented by tourists, this old restaurant was once the epitome of art nouveau decor where the who’s who of Czech society would meet in the 1920s.

Hotel Paris

After stopping for a quick drink, pass by Hotel Paris as you make your way down to Old Town along Jakubská street. Hotel Paris is another stunning example of art nouveau architecture and stylish designs. Take a peek inside and see how many gilded mirror you can see right there in the lobby.

The Basilica of St. James

On the way into old town, make sure to stop off at The Basilica of St. James. The basilica has a stunning set of sculptures, hanging off the facade of the church but since the rest of the building blends into the balance of the row houses, some people right walk right by. When we walk in the door, prepare to be in awe of one of the most fabulous baroque interiors I’ve ever seen. Originally the church was built in the gothic fashion but after a fire in 1689, the church was reconstructed in the Baroque style. And what a baroque design it is.

One of the strangest items in the church is a mummified forearm that’s over 400 years old. The story goes that a thief broke into the church and tried to steal the statue of the Virgin Mary. As the thief went to take the statue, Saint Mary grabbed his arm and would not let go. When the monks arrived in the morning, the thief was still there being held by the statue. They promptly cut off his hand in retribution of his attempted crime and then put it on display in the church to teach a lesson to other sinners who would pass through the doors.

Old Town Square

As we approach the Old Town Square, walk through the quaint little street called Tyn. It’s a tiny lane that leads into Old Town Square. On all side of the laneway are shops, restaurants and cafes selling traditional Czech goods and cuisine.

Church of Our Lady

Despite it being so close to one of the most popular tourist destinations in Prague, the courtyard remains busy but not overwhelming. The shop “Botanica” sells soaps, creams, tonic water for your face and much more. It feels like a modern apothecary shop made with organic materials grown in the Czech Republic. Worth taking a look inside. As you continue down Tyn, you pass through a very narrow corridor. On one side of you is the brick walls of the Church of Our Lady. At the end of the pathway, the walls open up to a GIANT square, littered with hundreds of people, staring up at all the brilliant buildings surrounding them. This is Old Town Square.

The Church of Our Lady stands tall and omnipresent over the east side of the Square. It was built in the 14th century in the late Gothic style by Peter Parler. Parler’s relief of the Crucifixion above the northern portal is an incredible example of sculpture and architecture from this period. If you don’t venture inside, be sure to at least get close up to the building and admire all the small details and decoration.

Interior of the Church

Inside the church, you’ll find a mixture of Gothic and Baroque works. Paintings by Karel Škréta painted in 1649 dot the walls and at the back of the church lies the oldest pipe organ in the Czech Republic. It was built in 1673 by Heinrich Mundt and still works to this day.

Statue of Jan Hus

In the centre of the square is an enormous monument of the religious reformer, Jan Hus. The statue was created to mark the 500th anniversary of his death. Jan Hus was a martyr and burnt at the stake for his beliefs which insighted the Hussite Wars.

Kinský Palace

One of my favourite buildings on the square is the Kinský Palace. It’s pink decorations, and white exterior makes it looks like a frilly, Rococo birthday cake. In 2006 it became a National Museum, but originally it was built as a palace for a noble family in 1755.

Astronomical Clock

The Prague Astronomical Clock is THE BIGGEST attraction in Prague, or at least that’s what the hoards of people crowding around it would make you believe. The clock is housed up on the southern wall of the Old Town Hall and has been there, in parts, since 1410. Legend says that if something bad were to befall the clock, Prague itself would fall. Although just a superstitious rumour, it’s been enough to keep the clock shiny and new all these years later.

There are three main parts to the clock. The first is the dial, which represents the Sun and Moon and their position in the sky. The next is the sculptures of the Apostles who, upon the hour, perform a little show for the onlookers. They move around the clock and are chased by a statue of death. This is what everyone is waiting to see but let me tell you, this little show isn’t worth fighting your way through the mob. Plus, once the show is over, the crowds disappear you get a much better view fo the rest of the clock. The final part of the clock is the calendar dial, with different medallions representing the different months of the year and their corresponding astrological signs.

Lunch Time

Around this time you might be feeling a little peckish, so it’s time to stop for something to eat. But don’t try and eat anywhere within the square. The small snack from the food vendors in their old wooden stall are vastly overpriced! And the restaurants around the square are most tourist traps and always overcrowded. Instead, head outside the square, towards the Jewish Quarter. We stopped off at VKolkovně – the first Pilsner Urquell Restaurant. Pilsner Urquell is one of the most famous of the Czech beers, and this restaurant serves it up plentifully along with traditional Czech dishes.

The restaurant has stood here for almost 100 years and aside from some minor renovations, still preserves its historical roots. There is a beer garden open in the Summer where you can sit outside and enjoy the sunshine. Since it’s so close to Old Town Square, yet tucked away enough to avoid throngs of tourists, this is a great spot to rest your feet and enjoy a cold glass of beer.

The Jewish Quarter

After finishing your lunch, let’s continue. This part of the tour leads us into the Jewish Quarter of Prague. The Jewish Quarter is the smallest of all the areas and was once a ghetto for the Jewish people of Prague. Jews settled here in the 10th century and despite persecution, throughout the years the quarter prospered up until the 16th century. In 1850 the quarter was renamed “Josefstadt” (Joseph’s City) after Joseph II, Holy Roman Emperor who emancipated the Jews with the “Toleration Edict” in 1781.

Shortly after that, Jews were allowed to move outside the ghetto and live wherever they wanted in the city. This reduced the general population of the Jewish quarter and only Orthodox, and poor Jews remained living there. Unfortunately, most of the old Jewish Quarter was destroyed in the 20th century, but we are still left a few important building that preserves their people’s history and culture.

The Spanish Synagogue

The Spanish Synagogue is one of the newest buildings in this area, built in the same spot as where one of the oldest buildings once stood. As you look up at the building, you might feel as though you aren’t in Prague anymore but are looking up at something from Spain. The building was built in the Moorish Revival Style, inspired by the art of Arabic architecture in Spain. Inside you’ll see even more of the Moorish design, specifically the impressive gilded and polychromic parquet. The geometric mosaic pieces of wood make the inside of the church feel like the centre of the sun; glowing, warm and a treat for the eyes. Inside you’ll find less of a traditional synagogue and more of an exposition of Jewish history in Prague.

The Jewish Town Hall

The High Synagogue and the Jewish Town Hall stand together as some of the most elegant, Renaissance-style buildings along the street. The High Synagogue was built in 1568, the same year as the Town Hall. It was designed to emulate the High Synagogue in Krakow, Poland. The Town Hall was given a Rococo finished facade in the 18th century. It was a meeting house for the Jewish community and as such a very important building to the quarter. The clock on the top of the building is vital to the heart of the city. One clock face contains Roman numerals, but the other has Hebrew numbers, beginning with alpha and continuing counterclockwise are the dial.

Old Synagogue

On the other side of the road, we find the Old Synagogue, which oddly enough is Europe’s oldest mediaeval, twin nave synagogue. This building was constructed in 1270 and as such was built in the Gothic style. One of the most iconic pieces of design in this synagogue is the incorporation of the number twelve. Along the doorway, you’ll find twelve vines and twelve bunches of grapes, inside you’ll see twelve columns and twelve lancet windows. These all represent the twelve tribes of Israel. Legend also has it that inside the Synagogue, up in the attic, there lies the body of a Golem. A golem is a huge creature made of clay that can be brought to life through magic.

It is said that one day the Golem will come to life to defend its people. During WWII, the Gestapo never entered the attic during the war and the building was spared the destruction wrought by the Nazis. Perhaps it was the Golem that either scared them off or indeed protected the building from destruction just like the legend says. Either way, this building has a real sense of power and importance when you step through its doors.

Pinkas Synagogue

Little ways away, you’ll come across the Pinkas Synagogue. This is the second oldest surviving synagogue in Prague. Today it serves as a museum to commemorate the 78,000 Czech victims of WWII. Along the walls of the Synagogue are the names of the victims, a powerful memory to their lives. There is also along a large exhibition of pictures drawn by children during their incarceration in the concentration camps. These images depict their experiences in the ghetto, their capture and their memories from home. Friedl Dicker-Brandeis was a painter who led these drawing lessons in the camp and hid the drawing before being executed himself. They were later recovered and preserved here in the Pinkas Synagogue.

Rudolfinum Concert Hall

After wandering through the colourful and ornate streets of the Jewish Quarter, we turn down Křižovnická street. As you walk, admire the enormous Rudolfinum Concert Hall. This building is the home of the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra and has been since 1946. It was built in 1885 and is a great place to hear some of Prague’s best musician’s.

Charles Bridge

As you continue down the street, you come upon the entrance to the Charles Bridge. This is one of Prague’s most iconic landmarks and although no doubt full of people, it is worth making your way through. The bridge was constructed in 1357 under the watchful eye of King Charles IV. The reason this bridge was always so important was that it connected the castle part of town, to the city’s old town. The bridge is 621 meters long and almost a whopping 10 meters wide! On either side of the bridge are two guard towers, once used for protection, now they only serve as a fascinating decoration for the tourists.

Before heading onto the Bridge, there are a few points here to take pictures, and it’s much better to do down here than on the bridge where the isn’t an inch of free space and pickpockets are on the prowl.

As you walk along the bridge, you come across dozens of statues and statuaries in baroque and gothic styles. They were all once original pieces created in the 16th and 17th century but now are replaced with replicas to keep better in the weather. The statues depict various saints and patrons who were of great importance during the time of its construction.

Malá Strana

Across the bridge, you’ll come to Malá Strana, or “Little Quarter” in Czech. This is the vast area of town situated on the hills below Prague Castle. In the middle ages, the city was divided into two halves, separated by the river and the Charles Bridge. King Ottokar II of Bohemia founded Malá Strana in 1257. The right side of town was the centre of the bourgeois, native Czech population. The left bank, however, was made up of many more German and Italian citizens, alongside some noble palaces. The king had brought with him many of these German craftsmen to help establish his city as one with some of the finest merchants and craftsmen in Europe.

In Mala Strana, you can explore small shops filled with trinkets, perfumes, lace and more. You can explore the various devotional churches that have stood on these stones since it’s foundation. You can eat and drink to your hearts content at the various traditional Czech pubs, bars and restaurants along the river, complete with a picturesque view of the right bank. At night, the streets are lit with lanterns and the crowds dwindle. Although it might be outside the inner city, it is a real treat to stay overnight on this side of two for a night or two. The experience is unique and one you should give a try!

Prague Castle

Most of the hotels on this side of town are housed inside beautifully restored buildings, and they give you a sense of what living in Mala Strana would have been like in the Renaissance. On the top of the hill in the Little Quarter, you’ll find Prague Castle. Although called a “castle” the area thus-named is more like its own neighbourhood than one building. This area is so vast and there is so much to see and explore it warrants it’s own walking tour. We skipped over on this leg since we wanted to spend a significant portion of time dedicated to this area and didn’t wanna rush through. If you are short on time, though, you can continue up the hill from the Bridge and wander around the Castle district, but for now, we’re going to skip over this.

St. Nicolas Square

The first stop on in the Little Quarter is St. Nicolas Square. The lower part of the square is now the site of the Holy Trinity Column, designed by Giovanni Batista Alliprandi. This was once the site of the gallows where hundreds of executions took place. But the column does not mark those events and rather is a monument to celebrate the end of the plague that ravaged the city of Prague. Along the column are the statues of various patron saints, including St. Wenceslas and St. John Nepomuk, two seminal saints for the city of Prague.

I wasn’t feeling to well and had to stop off at a pharmacy when we were visiting the square. Although I hope you don’t have the same experience, this store is incredible and is one of the oldest in the city. Despite the new medicines, it feels like an old apothecary of the 18th century. Worth poking your head inside.

St. Nicholas Church

St. Nicholas Church and the square has always served as a meeting place for citizens from the Little Quarter. It is the heart and soul of the city and as such, is an architectural marvel. Inside the church, you’ll see even more extraordinary pieces of Czech artwork. The dome is finely painted with the scene of the apotheosis of St. Nicolas, the defender of children, seamen and his followers.

Little Quarter East

Make your way across the Little Quarter’s East end by taking this shortcut through this medieval archway.

Walk down the small laneways and admire all the different shops along the road. So many of these places have been here for decades and the treasures you’ll find within are truly unique.

Along Prokopská you will see a few traditional pastry shops. If you’re feeling like something sweet, go inside on of the cafes and ask for their specialty. We got some delicious flaky sweet filled with blueberries and cream. Perfection.

Lennon Wall

As you make your way down, you’ll find yourself passing by the John Lennon Wall. The Lennon Wall is a favourite spot for tourists and locals alike. Since the 1980s, people have been coming to visit this wall and covering it in graffiti relating to John Lennon and the Beatles. It represents all the ideals that John Lennon stood for; peace, love and equality. The origins of the first piece of graffiti are unknown, but it seemed to have caught on like wildfire.

In addition to Lennon-inspired graffiti, in 1988 the wall became a place were young Czechs could air their grievances about the communist regime. Whenever local authorities would paint over the graffiti, the next day it would be covered up once more in poems and paintings. Eventually, they just stopped trying and accepted it as long as people stuck to graffitiing this one area and didn’t start defacing the entire lower half of Mala Strana. Which, politely, they did.

Love Bridge

As you continue, you will also pass by the love bridge. In the last decade, locking padlocks onto bridges has become a way of lovers to show their affection for one and other as well as leaving a piece of their love in the city. If you want to do the same, bring a lock with you and a pen and be sure to initial your names on the lock before securing it to the bridge.

Kampa Island

As you walk past the Lennon Wall and turn left, you will make your way down to Kampa Island. Kampa is a peaceful, green retreat from the busy city. On Kampa island, you’ll see lots of local Czech families out to enjoy some time outdoors. There are outdoor sculptures all along the island, along with the Kampa Modern Art Museum. This Museum features the private collection of Meda Mládek and is a treat for anyone who loves abstract modern art.

On your way out of Mala Strana, we pass across the Legion Bridge, this bridge isn’t as large or scenic as the Charles Bridge but gives you an incredible view both of the Mala Strana and the Old Town. You also get a great view of Prague Castle with the Charles Bridge in the foreground from this point.

This finishes our walking tour of Prague. Continue from here to either go back and explore the Castle District or head over to a museum (or two) and check out more about the art and culture of this amazing city.

Happy Travels, Adventurers




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]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/self-guided-walking-tour-of-prague/feed/ 8 290 The Ultimate Self-Guided Tour of Historic Prague Castle [UPDATED 2023] https://thecreativeadventurer.com/the-ultimate-self-guided-tour-of-historic-prague-castle/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=the-ultimate-self-guided-tour-of-historic-prague-castle https://thecreativeadventurer.com/the-ultimate-self-guided-tour-of-historic-prague-castle/#comments Thu, 07 Sep 2017 15:16:50 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//self-guided-tour-of-prague-castle/ Prague Castle is in fact, more like a walled, medieval village, rather than one singular castle. Inside these walls are some of Prague's most famous architectural masterpieces. Combined into compound, this mini-city was named, "Prague Castle". 

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Tour of Historic Prague Castle [UPDATED 2023] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> Prague Castle is in fact, more like a walled, medieval village, rather than one singular castle. Inside these walls are some of Prague‘s most famous architectural masterpieces. Combined into a compound, this mini-city is now known as “Prague Castle“. 

Prague Castle takes up over 70,000 square metres. The various buildings inside date as far back as the 9th century. Hidden within these walls, seemingly ubiquitous townhomes, storefronts and little passageways have been left to the passage of time, almost untouched from the modern world. This timeless atmosphere is a big drawn for tourists wanted to escape and each year more than 1.8 million footsteps tread on these cobblestones.

Guide to Prague Castle
  1. History
  2. Access
  3. Tickets
  4. Entry Castle Gates
  5. Matthias Gate
  6. Water Sprite Fountain
  7. St. Vitus Cathedral
  8. Royal Gardens
  9. Old Royal Palace
  10. New Royal Palace
  11. St. George Basilica
  12. Golden Lane
  13. White Tower
  14. Daliborka Tower

History

The earliest architectural research shows that the Castle was founded around 880 by Prince Bořivoj. The castle became home to Bohemian Kings and Queens and today is the official residence of the President of the Czech Republic. The large, wooden walls that surrounded the castle when it was first constructed were built as a defense against incoming invaders and enemies. Over the years, wooden walls were replaced with stone, and many of the original stones are still standing today. Despite these countermeasures, Prague suffered many, many wars over the years, and much of the castle complex has been destroyed and rebuilt in the original style. 

Walking through the walled city, you’ll come upon three different courtyards, each serving a different purpose. Some were meant for the nobility, others marketplaces for the common folk. Since the castle was home not only to royals but their guards, alchemists, servants and craftsmen, this resulted in a hodgepodge of architectural styles. Some are grand structures, others simple homes for the working class.

Access

The castle opens are early as 7am throughout the year, and if you’re able to get up this early, this is the best time to explore the grounds. Crossing the Charles Bridge to get to the castle is always a challenge since the bridge is usually rammed with tourists and street vendors. Going in early not only means you’ll have the bridge to yourself, but you also get to be surrounded by that iconic sunrise along the Vltava river. 

To reach the Castle, you can take the tram to either Královský letohrádek, Pražský hrad, or Pohořelec station. From either of these stops it is only a 5-10 min walk into the entrance of the Castle. For the purpose of this tour, we’re going to get off at the Pohorelec stop. If it’s the summertime, consider getting off at the tram stop for the Summer Royal Palace. This way, you have the opportunities to walk through the lush, manicured gardens of the royal palace on your way into castle’s labyrinth.

Exploring the complex can take a whole day. Two if you want to go inside every building and visit every museum. But if you’d rather just wander the streets, most the Castle can be explored in half a day.

Tickets

Upon arriving at the castle gates from the tram stop, you can stop at the ticket booth. This is where you can buy your ticket to access the interior of various famous buildings. But before you do, know that you DO NOT need to buy a ticket simply to walk around Prague Castle. What the ticket is for is access to the Cathedral, Residence and exhibitions. Many tourists don’t know this. And for most of us who are on a schedule, and don’t need to go inside the museums, there’s no reason to pay extra for things you don’t want to see.

There are all sorts of different tickets available, all of which offer access to various parts of the castle. Check this list for the complete details. The Prague Circuit Ticket costs CZK 250 ($12 USD.) This ticket gives you access to the Old Royal Palace, St. George‘s Basilica, Golden Lane, and St. Vitus Cathedral. To take pictures inside any of the buildings you’ll need to purchase a photo pass for 50 CZK ($2 USD.) If you’d like to go up the Tower inside St. Vitus Cathedral this is an extra 150 CZK and if you want to purchase an audio guide this will cost 350 CZK for 3 hours, after which it must be returned on time.

Entry Castle Gates

At the front gate, the first stop on our tour, you’ll see the castle guards standing tall within their grey and white striped booths. There is a changing of the guard ceremony every hour. So try to arrange your arrival in time to catch this short but entertaining ceremony.  

As you pass through the gate, be sure to look up at Ignaz Frantisek Platzer’s stone giants. They stand atop the columns. They hold in their hand’s giant clubs. Ready to swing wildly at any enemies who try to invade the castle. A show to any visitor entering the palace grounds of the might of the people of Prague.

Matthias Gate

Inside the first gate, you can see in front of you the 17th century Matthias Gate, designed by Italian artist Giovanni Maria Flippi. This gate once stood freely, but eventually, the Maria Theresa extension was built up around it to connect the various residence buildings together.

Water Sprite Fountain

Pass through this gate, and you’ll come upon a gorgeous stone fountain from 1686. The fountain is set beside the largest well which was used for all the citizens of Prague Castle. The old well can be seen under a thick, black, brought-iron cage. Legend has it that the well was guarded by the water sprite Pakit, who protected the city’s water from evil demons.

St. Vitus Cathedral

Through the first courtyard, you’re led into the second courtyard. Here you’ll immediately be struck with the image of St. Vitus Cathedral, looming overhead. St. Vitus is one of the best examples of Gothic architecture in Prague. And its silhouette creates the iconic skyline when looking up at Prague Castle from below.

The name of the Cathedral is actually from St. Wenceslas himself. Saint Wenceslas had acquired a holy relic, the arm of St. Vitus, from Emperor Henry I. Since Saint Vitus has a slightly Slavic name, the Emperor thought this was the perfect relic to give to Wenceslas to convert the Slavic people to Christianity.

Standing in the courtyard of the Cathedral, you are in the same spot where a Romanesque rotunda once stood in 924. Eventually, the old church was demolished to build St. Vitus. St. Vitus Cathedral was the crowning place of all the Kings of Bohemia and the resting place of St. Wenceslas himself. Take some time to wander around the church’s exterior. Spot all the gargoyles which hang over the roof, along with; dragons, scorpions and musicians. At night these creatures are all lit up from below, creating a haunting spectacle as their faces seem to move in the light.

Construction of the Cathedral

Like many of the great churches of the world, construction took ages. It began in 1344 but was not completed until 1929. Even today, the Cathedral is constantly being restored to ensure all the work that went into building such a gem isn’t lost to time.

The designer of the Cathedral was Frenchman Matthias of Arras who had previously designed the famed Papal Palace in Avignon. Matthias was responsible for the French Gothic style found so prominently in the Cathedral. You’ll see flying buttresses, short transepts, five-bayed choirs and radiating chapels. Matthias of Arras was a schooled geometer and mathematician, who loved rigid, proportions. Everything shot up vertically, high up to the heavens.

Architect Peter Parler

Matthias didn’t live to see the Cathedral finished and after his death, 23-year-old Peter Parler took over construction. He was the son of the architect of the Heilig-Kreuz-Münster so, despite his age, he had much-lived experience from working with his father.

Parler was an innovator and brought his own unique designs to the Cathedral. He synthesized traditional gothic elements and his modern ideas, exemplified in the vaults he designed for the choir. These now named “Parler” vaults, have diagonal ribs that span the width of the choir bay giving them additional strength and also producing a dynamic pattern effect along the ceiling.

Parler was a sculptor and woodcarver as well as an architect. When he took over the project, he moved away from the mathematical, structured designs of Matthias and added natural ornamentation. Study the tracery panels of the buttresses, window ornaments, the bell-shaped columns, passageway lintels and the busts in the triforium – each one given an artistic flourish that only a sculptor could have conceived.

St. Wenceslas Chapel

The most important area of the Cathedral is St. Wenceslas Chapel. Inside, relics of the Saint of Prague are still housed. The lower portions of the walls in here are decorated with over 1300 semi-precious stones and paintings depicting the Passion of Jesus from 1372–1373. In the corner of the room, you can see a small door with seven locks, leading to the ‘Crown Chamber’ which contains the precious Crown Jewels of the city. These jewels are off limits to the public, except for one day every eight years, when the seven locks are opened, and these incredible treasures can be looked upon by the people of the city.

Alphonse Mucha

The last thing to make sure to gaze upon in here are the stained glass windows. The most important being created by Czech Art Nouveau painter Alphonse Mucha. Created in the early 1930s, the piece was made for the millennium jubilee of St. Wenceslas. The window displays the young St. Wenceslas with his grandmother St. Ludmila. Surrounding the centre scene are smaller vignettes of the lives of Saints Cyril and Methodius who spread Christianity among the Slavs. 

The first thing you’ll notice upon looking at this piece is the saturation of the colours and strong lines around the figures. With more modern technology in 1930 then many people had in the earlier years of stain glass production, Mucha was able to produce a more impactful piece of artwork. Alphonse Mucha’s art nouveau stylings are prevalent in the look and feel of this window. Despite being locked into glass, there is still a flow to the piece with powerful organic forms blossoming in the panels.

For those of you who have the courage and energy, be sure to climb the stairs up to the top of the tower to get some beautiful views of the city and courtyards below.

Royal Gardens

After exiting the church, head across to the Royal Gardens. These contain an incredible display of fountains, manicured hedges and colourful flowers. The inside of the house which surrounds the garden has been turned into a gallery for art aficionados.

To the east of the Cathedral, you’ll find the place where the throne room of the old princes of Bohemia once stood. Now, in its place, stands an iron statue of St. George slaying the dragon – a memorial to the dead of the first World War.

Old Royal Palace

Adjacent to the statue is the Old Royal Palace. This building was first erected in the 9th century but has since been through various renovations. Although you can only view parts of the Palace, the grandest part of it is Vladislav Hall. This once was the place where the kings and queens of Prague hosted feasts, balls and large markets. The vaulted, late gothic ceilings in this room are the only real ornamental left, but one can imagine the bright colours with would have flooded this hall when the tables cloth, velvet dresses and the colourful food was all laid out for the nobility.

The palace also still holds the crown jewels of the empire, including the Czech Crown. There is a legend that anyone who dons the crown as a false king would die within a year. During WWII, during the Nazi occupation, Reinhard Hedrick did this very thing, and before the year was out, he was assassinated.

New Royal Palace

Attached to the Old Palace is the New Royal Palace. This houses some of the most fantastically decorated halls in all of Prague. This building once served as the living quarters for the Kings and Queens and is today the residence of the president of the Czech Republic and his administration. Large, elegant receptions are held for diplomats and state representatives and it is only open to the public two days a year.

St. George Basilica

After visiting the Old and New Palace, make your way over to St. George Basilica. St. George Basilica is the oldest surviving building in Prague Castle and the second oldest church in Prague. It was founded by Vratislaus I of Bohemia in 920 and dedicated to Saint George.

The red, Baroque facade was added in the 17th century, but the original structure from the 1100’s remains preserved inside. The ceiling is made of dark wood and only small, decorative windows dot the thick stone walls. It is a cool place to rest during a hot day, and it’s stone seem to vibrate with history.

In addition to being able to visit during the day, if you’d like to see it in the evening you can attend an evening classical concerts. The thick walls make for great acoustics and give guests an excellent introduction to some classic Czech composers.

Golden Lane

The final area to explore is the narrow street named Golden Lane. Golden Lane is a row of miniature houses built in the 16th century in the mannerism style of architecture. These served as home to the castle’s servants. Although these little houses are now only home to touristy gift shops and miniature museums, try to spend your time studying the design and colours of the exterior of each house. Look up at the windows and tiny the roof tiles. Also, don’t miss House #22, the blue house, which was home to Franz Kafka.

The street gets its name from the famous alchemist who once lived here during the reign of Rudolf II. This alchemist was obsessed with creating the philosopher’s stone, the elixir of youth and most of all, trying to turn worthless metals into gold! He was never successful but his memory lived on. In the 20th century, an old doctor of philosophy spent his life savings collecting old books on magic and went about secret experiments in his house on Golden Lane.

One day, neighbours heard an explosion and came running. His house was on fire, and when firefighters finally were able to extinguish the blaze, they found the old man dead inside, clutching a large piece of gold in his hand. Perhaps he finally accomplished what all those alchemists before him were attempting to do, as no one could understand how else he would have come to own such a large, expensive piece of gold.

White Tower

At the end of the Golden Lane, is the White Tower. This White Tower served as a prison for noblemen from the 1500s to 1700s. Although most of the crimes were for rioting and unpaid debts, one of the cruellest women in Czech history was also housed here after her arrest. Allegedly she murdered over 14 people and performed horrible acts of torture on her victims.

Daliborka Tower

The other tower at the end of Golden Lane is Daliborka Tower. This tower you can go inside and see some recreations of the torture chambers that were once hidden inside this picturesque lane. This tower was another prison used during the end of the 18th century. It was named after a young knight, Dalibor, who was sentenced to death and imprisoned in the tower’s dungeon. When Dalibor was locked up inside the tower, waiting for his fate to be decided, he learned to play the violin. His playing was so beautiful and sad that people would come from all over the city to listen to him.

The citiziens took pity on poor Dalibor and brought him gifts and food while he was imprisoned. The day he was sentenced to death, everyone knew he was dead when the music which had once graced the laneways of the castle was suddenly gone. Dalibor was seen as a kind of ‘Czech Robin Hood’, and after his eventual capture, all prisoners to follow him into the Tower called it the Daliborka Tower.

As you leave the castle, take a final look back at you exit, the small bridge you’ll pass under before leaving the city provides the perfect frame for the candy coloured houses which line the road. Despite its overwhelming levels of tourists which come to visit, the sheer size and sprawl of the Castle mean you never to feel too overwhelmed. But get here early or late, and wandering this empty, medieval wonderland will feel like a dream come true.

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