Our previous self-guided walking tour focused primarily on following in the footsteps of Vincent Van Gogh. Van Gogh lived and worked here in Arles, and some of his most prolific works of art were made during his time in his yellow house. Featured in many of his paintings were remnants of the ancient Roman ruins of Arles, as they are hard to miss and truly a part of the fabric of this city. And just like this mesmerized Van Gogh a hundred years ago, they fascinate visitors daily. So join us as we travel back in time, long before Van Gogh, to peek into the Roman and Medieval world of Arles.

Table Of Contents

1. Map of Walking Tour of Ancient Arles
2. History
3. Admission to Historical Sights
4. How To Get To Arles
5. By Train
6. Alyscamps, the Roman Necropolis
7. Tour des Mourgues
8. Théâtre Antique d'Arles
9. Arles Amphitheatre
10. Rue Voltaire
11. Amédée Pichot fountain
12. The Porte de la Cavalerie
13. Quay Marx Dormoy
14. Thermes de Constantin
15. Musée Réattu
16. Place du Forum
17. Van Gogh Café
18. Cryptoporticus 
19. The Obelisk
20. Church of St. Trophime
21. Cloître Saint-Trophime
22. Jardin Des Arts

Map of Walking Tour of Ancient Arles

History

Arles has a rich and storied history that dates back thousands of years. The Ligurians were the first known people to inhabit this area around 800 BC. In the 2nd century BC, Arles came under Roman rule, and the village flourished with the construction of the canal connecting the Mediterranean Sea to the city. The Romans sought to build huge architectural landmarks that included the Arles Amphitheatre and the Roman Theatre, which were built during this period. Both of which we can still see prominently featured in the city today. 

The Roman Era

During the Roman era of Arles, the city became a vital hub for trade due to its strategic location along the Rhône River, which made facilitating commerce and cultural exchange a breeze. As the city grew, it became the centre of arts and culture in the Roman “Provincias,” a Latin phrase which referred to the territories that the Roman Republic controlled. And where the name Provence came from.

Many Emperors frequently were drawn to the city of Arles. And even would use it as a home base during their military campaigns. Emperor Constantine I, especially favoured the city. Under his rule, the Roman Baths were built in Arles to mirror the Baths of Constantine in Rome. His son Constantine II was born in Arles, and his son Emperor Constantine III went on to declare Arles as the capital of Rome when he moved there in 408!

The Fall of Rome

After the fall of the Roman Empire, Arles continued to hold lots of power over the rest of the South of France. It was still a major center for trade and commerce along the Rhone River. But soon, its prominence was eclipsed by the ever-growing port of Marseilles. Since Marseille was located right along the Medieterran, they could accept larger ships from farther away into their ports. And before long, Arles ceased to hold any real political power. 

Admission to Historical Sights

While many of the Roman ruins can be seen, at least in part, from outside the ticketed area, visiting the interior of many of these sights is well worth the admission fee. You get up close and personal. Explore hidden interiors, and even delve below the city to see the internal structure holding it up today.

The best ticket to buy for our self-guided tour is the Pass Avantage. This gives you access to six monuments and four museums. While that might seem like a lot, it’s mainly the monuments we’re focused on, and the museums are simply a bonus. If you are planning to spend more than one day in Arles, this is great as it will allow you more time to check out the additional museums. The ticket is valid for six months, so if you prefer to split this tour into two days, you can take everything at your own pace.

Pass Avantage Price

Adults 19€ | Reduced 16€ | Free for children under 18 accompanied by a parent. You can buy your Pass Avantage at the first stop on our guided tour.

For the most up-to-date opening hours for each stop on the tour, check this handy guide.

If you don’t want to buy the monuments and instead would rather pick and choose only a few different locations to go inside, I’ve included all the individual entry prices in this post.

How To Get To Arles

By Car

Arles is easily reached by car via the N113 and A54 highways from Marseille or D570 via Avignon.

By Train

If you are staying in towns like Nimes, Avignon or Marseille, you can also opt to take the TER train. These trains run very frequently and are often even quicker than driving! But note that most small Provencal villages around Arles don’t have public transit. So, in that case, driving will be the only option.

Where to Park

One of the best spots to park, where there are lots of spaces, and it’s very central, is at the Parking du Centre. Along the Rue Emile Fassin. I’ve made sure to mark that on the map. Parking costs 2€ an hour. There is also a public washroom kiosk outside this parking lot. But remember, these require a 0.20€ coin to get use. I always make sure to carry some coins as often “public” doesn’t mean “free” in Provence.

How Long is the Walking Tour

I would recommend spending an entire day in Arles. There is much to see and do besides the stops mentioned here on this tour. You’ll want to stop for food, and there are great shopping opportunities all along the colourful and quaint streets. As mentioned above, if you are staying in Arles, you can also split this tour up at your leisure. This means less walking all at once, and it will be a slightly more relaxed few days.

Alyscamps, the Roman Necropolis

Our journey back hundreds of years to ancient Arles begins on the city’s edge. Along what was once the ancient Roman road to Aurelia. Here hides a great Roman cemetery dating back to the 4th century AD. Behind the tall iron gate and under rows of poplar trees, we find the archaic Alyscamps, a Roman Necropolis. 

“Alyscamps” is a corruption of the original Latin name Elisii Camp. In English, we call this the Elysian Fields, which in Greek mythology refers to the afterlife paradise for heroic and virtuous souls. 

History of the Alyscamps

During the Roman Empire, burials were not allowed within the city limits. Therefore, it was commonplace for the roadways leading into cities to be lined with tombs and mausoleums. The cemetery followed the Roman practice of inhumation. Inhumation dates back at least to the Middle Paleolithic period. The oldest form of inhumation was done by hollowing out a trench in the ground and covering the body with rocks and dirt.

But for the Romans, buried their deceased in the ground inside stone tombs or sarcophagi. The burial ground accommodated various social classes, from common citizens to prominent figures of the time. This included everyone from military officers to merchants. Strolling down the main road, you can still see hundreds of these old sarcophagi and tombs lining the ancient Roman road. Stop to look at some of the details which can still be seen on these tombs, which are almost over 2000 years old.

The Saints of the Alyscamp

With the spread of Christianity, the Alyscamps gained even greater significance. This was largely because Saint Genesius was buried here after his beheading and subsequent martyrdom. Saint Trophimus, the first Bishop of Arles, was also buried here. With these high-profile burials, people from all over the country started to want to have the honour of being buried here. The Rhone River became somewhat of a burial highway. Families had their loved ones shipped on boats in from all over Europe to be buried in such a distinguished cemetery. And tombs had to be stacked three layers deep to accommodate the influx.

The Decline of Alyscamps

But in 1152, Saint Trophimus’ relics were moved to the Arles cathedral. This was the start of the end for the Alyscamps. Having lost its most important “resident,” its popularity dried up. And within a hundred years, the site was abandoned, and the tombs were systematically looted. Sarcophagi were given as gifts to distinguished visitors of the city. And many of the gravestones were dismantled to use as building materials. Some sarcophagi were even used as water troughs for cattle.

Van Gogh’s Alyscamps

But the Alyscamps never lost its natural beauty. And during the 19th century, the locals started to use it as a public park. Here they could stroll and remark on the ancient graves still present in the rubble. It was a favourite spot for Van Gogh when he lived in Arles. He even made a point to bring his fellow painting partner Paul Gaughin to the Alyscamps. Here each one made their own interpretation of the site’s picturesque and evocative atmosphere. To learn more about Van Gogh’s time in Arles, read our dedicated Van Gogh-ian Self-Guided Tour of Arles.

The Eglise Saint Honorat

Saint Honorat was Archbishop of Arles in the 3rd century. When he died in 429 AD, his tomb became a prominent pilgrimage site for the early Christians. In the mid-11th century, a Romanesque church was built inside Les Alyscamps and named after him. Much of the old church has fallen into ruins, but the east and west aisles still survive today. As well as the massive lantern tower that dominated the skyline inside.

The building has almost entirely been left to the elements, and yet there are so many aspects of the original architecture that you can study inside. It’s a forgotten treasure, and even without being covered in stained glass and lavish ornamentation, there is such an earnest beauty to this church.

Individual Entry Price for Les Alyscamps: 5€

Tour des Mourgues

Walk northwest along Avenue des Alyscamps. On the northwest corner of Boulevard Emile Combes, you’ll see a great stone wall called the Tour des Mourgues. The Mourgues Tower is the most well-preserved of the circular towers that flanked the city’s defensive ramparts. The tower gets its name from the nearby monastery founded by Bishop Césaire in the 6th century. The monastery was the primary residence of nuns (called morgues in Latin.) Initially, The tower was circular but modified in the 14th to this more octagonal appearance.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by V A P (@madame_butterfly_clichy)

Théâtre Antique d’Arles

Walk along Mnt Vauban street, turning up the Rue de la Calade as it curves around the back of the iconic Roman Theatre. Built in the 1st century BC, this well-preserved theatre was built to accommodate up to 8,000 spectators! The theatre was constructed during the reign of Emperor Augustus. Unlike the Colosseum or Roam Amphitheatre, which were the centre of gladiatorial events, this building served as a venue for various theatrical performances. Much lighter and less violent entertainment for the Roman public to enjoy.

History of the Roman Theatre of Arles

The theatre’s design resembles a Roman amphitheatre which has been cut in half. Rows and rows of tiered seating are wrapped around the stage in a semi-circular shape. The structure is built into the side of a hill, maximizing its acoustics and providing excellent views of the stage from all angles. Originally, the would have been a wooden roof and a large rear wall at the back of the stage. Today, only the orchestra section, seating rows, and two large Corinthian columns survive. Little more than a few pieces of rubble remain of the once impressive rear wall, which would have acted as a theatrical backdrop for the actors.

As a Roman citizen of Provence, you could attend everything from theatrical plays, musical performances, poetry readings, and political and religious gatherings here in the Roman Theatre. Just as theatre is today, this place would have been essential to the town’s social and cultural life.

Like many other ancient Roman structures, the theatre gradually disappeared during the Middle Ages. Over the centuries, parts of the theatre were repurposed for other constructions. The ruins were later rediscovered and excavated during the 19th and 20th centuries.

Today, this theatre is still used for the very same purpose it once was, to host musical and theatrical events. When we visited, they were performing a soundcheck for the concert later that evening. The scaffolding of the lighting rig carefully places around the stone outline of the old stage. It is so nice to see these sites still in use today, rather than simply being a relic of a bygone era.\

Individual Entry Price for Roman Theatre of Arles: 9€

Arles Amphitheatre

Make your way back onto the Rue de la Calade onto the Rue Porte de Laure, which wraps around the giant arches of the majestic Arles Amphitheatre. The Arles Amphitheatre dates back to 90 AD. The Arena was primarily used for hosting various public spectacles and gladiatorial games. This enormous Arena could hold an estimated 20,000 spectators.

Gladiatorial Events

Gladiatorial contests were a central part of Roman entertainment. These events served to entertain and satisfy the masses while also reinforcing the power and authority of the Roman Empire. These battles were thrilling and often brutal spectacles in the Roman amphitheatre. 

Gladiators in Arles were typically slaves, prisoners of war, or condemned criminals who were forced to fight to the death for the audience’s amusement. These fighters were trained in specialized gladiator schools, known as ludi, where they honed their combat skills and developed signature fighting techniques.

The spectacles in Arles included various forms of combat, such as one-on-one duels, group battles, and even confrontations with wild animals like lions and bears. The contests were often organized and sponsored by wealthy individuals or the Roman government to gain popularity and political influence.

As social attitudes changed, the demand for such violent spectacles waned. And by the 5th century AD, the tradition of gladiatorial games in Arles began to fade, and the amphitheatre was eventually repurposed for other activities. 

Amphitheatre in the Middle Ages

After the fall of the Roman Empire, the theatre’s purpose shifted. In the Middle Ages, it was transformed into a fortress to protect the inhabitants of Arles. Four towers were added to either side of the fortress to keep a lookout over the city. Houses, stables, and workshops were built right into the arches of the arena. It was indeed a town within a town, with a square where the arena once stood. There was even a chapel inside. If you look closely at the walls when you enter, you can still see holes where different structural supports were installed to build two-story houses inside the archways.

Arena Layout

Entering this elliptical-shaped amphitheatre, you can really appreciate how this is a masterpiece of Roman engineering and architecture. It measures about 136 meters long and 109 meters wide, and its exterior reaches a height of around 21 meters.

The structure consists of two levels of arches, a grand entrance, and a complex system of corridors, galleries, and staircases that allow easy access for spectators. You can access almost all these areas today with your entry ticket. Allowing you to really get a feel of the entirety of the arena.

The Interior

While the main attractions were gladiatorial contests, other events included mock sea battles, animal hunts, and public executions. Climb to the top of the Arena for the most incredible panoramic views of the city and the surrounding countryside.

Bullfighting

In the 19th century, efforts were made to restore and protect this iconic structure. But instead of hosting Gladitorial events, it was repurposed into a bullfighting arena. Bullfighting in Provence is known as “Course Camarguaise.” It differs from the well-known Spanish-style bullfighting in that the bull is not killed in the theatre. Moreover, the focus is on the agility and daring of the participants rather than inflicting harm on the animal.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Charles Desmarais (@artguypix)

During Course Camarguaise, agile and skilled participants, known as “raseteurs,” attempt to remove small tassels or rosettes attached to the bull’s horns. The raseteurs use a claw-shaped hook called a “raset” to try to grab them. The objective is to demonstrate their bravery and deftness in evading the charging bull while trying to collect as many rosettes as possible. All the while dressed in spectacular costumes that sparkle and shine in the sun and impress a captive audience. Van Gogh himself loved to frequent these events and even captured a vibrant scene in the arena of spectators viewing the bullfighting games.

Individual Entry Price Arles Amphitheatre: 9€

Rue Voltaire

After finishing touring the Amphitheatre, take a walk away along the Rue Voltaire. But sure to look back down the street towards the Amphitheatre as I loved this framed view of it.

The Rue Voltaire is an adorable cobblestone street flanked on all sides by charming shops, crawling ivy, and those classical Provencal brightly painted window shutters. This is the perfect place to grab a bit to eat, as the people-watching opportunities along this road are unmatched. 

Bistrot le Mistral is a great choice for a hyper-local French menu that changes daily. Don’t let the handwritten chalkboard menu scare you away. Chalkboards are the best indication that the food is fresh, as it signals the dishes change with the season or, indeed, with the daily whims of the chef! For such artistic French plating, the prices are very affordable. A must-check out while you’re in town

Amédée Pichot fountain

Returning to the road, stop to admire the incredible Amédée Pichot fountain, found at the intersection of Rue Amédée Pichot and Rue Voltaire. This elegant fountain and accompanying mosaic were built in honour of the 19th-century journalist and writer Amédée Pichot. The installation was a love letter from Pierre-Amédée Pichot to his father. When his father was alive, he purchased a monumental painting from French artist Paul Balze at his salon in Paris. The painting was an allegory of poetry inspired by a painting by Raffaello. Before Amédée Pichot died, he wanted to gift the painting to the people of the city of Arles. So they could enjoy its beauty instead of the painting being cooped up inside his house. But the city couldn’t find an appropriate location, and his dream was abandoned.

After his father died, Pierre-Amédée Pichot was driven to accomplish the goal that his father had abandoned. On a recent visit to Paris, he was inspired by the fountain outside the Place Saint Michel, which stood on the exterior of a large wall. Pierre managed to buy the house on the corner along Rue Voltaire to use its prominent exterior to build this monument. But you can’t simply hang a painting outside in the elements. So instead, he had a great reproduction artist reproduce the painting on enamel ceramic tiles. Now the painting is preserved in enamel and hanging in such a place of honour. Drawing the eyes of all those who pass it by.

The Porte de la Cavalerie

At the end of the Rue Voltaire stands the great Porte de la Cavalerie, also known as the Cavalry Gate. This ancient Roman gate was where people would have entered the city for the first time along the long road to Arles. The enormous, crumbling, stone defensive walls date back to the 3rd century AD. Sturdy stone towers on either side of the arched opening are called the “barbicans.” They were designed to reinforce the gate’s defensive capabilities, allowing guards and soldiers to monitor and defend the entrance effectively.

Quay Marx Dormoy

Walk through the gates and turn west along the Quay Marx Dormoy, which curves around the famous Rhone River. René Marx Dormoy was a French politician. During his tenure as mayor, he played a significant role in French politics and administration, advocating for social reforms and progressive urban development. Dormoy’s commitment to public service and contributions left a lasting impact on the communities he served, and he is given pride of place here in Arles with such a picturesque pathway named after him.

Wander along the riverside walk for a few minutes. Gazing out at the exquisite landscape which wraps around the river. The Rhône River holds immense historical importance to Arles, shaping its identity and playing a pivotal role in its development over the centuries. During the Roman Empire, the river connected Arles to the rest of the Empire. With goods being both imported and exported from this thoroughfare.

Post-Roman Empire, the river continued as a vital trade route connecting the city to the Mediterranean Sea. Goods, such as agricultural produce, textiles, and luxury items, passed through this waterway. Today, the river is no longer a busy port, with huge freight ships landing in Marseille. But you’ll be able to watch dozens of River Cruise boats gently floating on the water, taking in the sights of this majestic waterway.

Starry Night Over the Rhône

One of the most prolific reasons people view this part of the river is to study the inspiration for Vincent Van Gogh’s famous paintings, Starry Night Over the Rhône. His home in Arles, the Yellow House, was just around the corner, and it was right here where he came to immortalize the river forever.

The painting features a starry night sky filled with a vibrant and swirling mix of blues and yellows. The brushstrokes are bold and expressive, making the scene almost turbulent. The stars appear to twinkle and dance across the canvas. Hidden in the bottom right corner, we can see a couple taking a leisurely stroll along the riverbank. Just like we are doing today!

Thermes de Constantin

A small staircase leads you down away from the Quay towards the Rue du Grand Prieuré. As you make your way down, you are met with a large curved brick wall. This is the exterior of the great Thermes de Constantin. The Thermes de Constantin, also known as the Baths of Constantine, is an ancient Roman bath house.

Built in the 4th century AD, the Thermes de Constantin was named in honour of the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great. When we hear the word “bath” today, we think of a small, plastic or enamel tub meant for one person. But during the Roman Empire, public baths were an enormous structure where dozens, if not hundreds, of people could come together. Bathing back then was not just to maintain your personal hygiene, but it was also great. For Romans, bathhouses were a social and cultural center where people from all walks of life would gather, relax, and socialize.

Using a Roman Bath House

Roman baths were grand, impressive structures. Stepping inside, you can walk around the space on raised platforms to really appreciate the grandeur of the building. While most of the decoration has been lost to time, imagine for yourself as you walk through the now-barren interior with stunning mosaic decorations and intricate marble sculptures. These were all meant to showcase the opulence and grandeur of Rome. The walls would have been adorned with frescoes depicting scenes from mythology, everyday life, and the glories of the Roman Empire.

Visitors would enter through an imposing entrance hall known as the frigidarium, which led to a series of interconnected rooms offering different temperature baths. These rooms included the tepidarium (warm room) and the caldarium (hot room), equipped with underfloor heating systems known as hypocausts. You can still see several of these underfloor heating systems today; look for the signs that point it out.

Roman baths were not only for physical relaxation but also hubs for intellectual and cultural exchange. Philosophical discussions, debates, and other social interactions would occur within these spaces.

Individual Entry Price Roman Baths: 5€

Musée Réattu

Leaving the Roman Baths, you can opt to visit the Musée Réattu just down the street. Entry to the Musée Réattu is included in the Pass Avantage. If you’re not an avid art fan, you can skip this stop. But the museum is very small, so even if you just want to peek inside to see a few pieces, you won’t spend very much time inside.

The Musée Réattu is housed in a former 15th-century priory. Exploring some of the historic parts of the building is one of the best reasons to stop here. The museum primarily showcases the world of Jacques Réattu, an influential French artist who was born in Arles. Réattu’s artistic journey took him from his hometown to the vibrant Paris art scene. It was in Paris that he gained recognition for his exceptional painting. But he never forgot about his beloved home of Arles. While Van Gogh might be the biggest name to have worked in Arles, Réattu is the homegrown pride of the city.

Réattu’s artistic repertoire encompassed various subjects, from historical and mythological themes. His works often exhibited a harmonious blend of classicism and romanticism, with a keen attention to detail and a deep understanding of human emotions.

Picasso’s Arlesienne

Also included in the museum’s collection is a series of eight portraits painted by Picasso of his muse Jacqueline Roque, dressed as an Arlesienne. The term “Arlesienne” was often used to describe the traditional costume worn by women in the Arles region in the 19th century. This traditional dress typically includes a white or light-coloured blouse, a full black skirt, and an elaborate, intricately embroidered black velvet bodice. The outfit is completed with a headdress adorned with ribbons and flowers, which vary depending on the occasion. The Arlesienne has become an enduring symbol of Provencal and was also frequently painted by Gaugin and Van Gogh.

Individual Entry Price Roman Baths: 8€

Place du Forum

From the museum, let’s meander down toward the Place du Forum. Turn left onto Rue Dominique Maisto, then right onto Rue du Sauvage, leading into Rue de la Place. The Place du Forum is a picturesque, vibrant square steeped in history and surrounded by charming cafes and shops.

The Place du Forum is named after the Roman Forum that once stood a few blocks away. Today, remnants of the ancient Roman city can still be seen embedded into the walls of the square. Look closely at the building on the corner, now the Nord-Pinus Hotel. You can see it embedded in the hotel are two Roman Corinthian columns. These tall columns once supported a Roman temple that occupied this space. 

A Corinthian column can be recognized immediately by its elaborate capitals decorated in acanthus leaves arranged in a spiral pattern, surrounding a central bell-shaped element called the “abacus.” 

Van Gogh Café

At the heart of the Place du Forum stands the iconic Le Cafe La Nuit. Better known as the Van Gogh Café. This café features a bright yellow facade, believed to be the same café that inspired Van Gogh’s famous artwork, “Café Terrace at Night.”

While the cafe might stand in the same spot as the original cafe from the painting, the ownership has changed hands many times. And today, the cafe sadly has a poor reupitation as a tourist trap. If you want to stop for an aperitif, consider L’Apostrophe Restaurant two doors down instead. If you can snag a spot outside, you have a beautiful view of the Yellow Cafe without the tourist trap prices and poor-quality food and service. After all this walking, you’ll definitely have deserved a sweet aperitif.

Cryptoporticus 

Continue your journey towards the Cryptoporticus of the Roman Forum. This spot is just a few blocks from the Place du Forum. You must enter the old Town Hall of Arles to get inside. Once inside, you’ll find the entrance to the underground passageway. 

The Cryptoportiques d’Arles, also known as the Arles Cryptoporticus, dates back to the 1st century BC. These underground vaults were constructed to serve various functions, including supporting the enormous Roman Forum above. The Cryptoportiques consist of a network of underground galleries and corridors. These galleries are supported by a series of arches and pillars, characteristic of Roman architectural engineering. The ceilings of the passageways are vaulted, allowing for the even distribution of weight and enhancing the structure’s stability. Walking around in the dark, you feel like you’ve entered a labyrinth, and perhaps a minotaur lurks around the next corner…

The walls and pillars of the Cryptoportiques were made using locally sourced stone, primarily limestone and sandstone. The choice of these durable materials contributed to the fact that this part of Roman Arles has been so pristinely preserved today. Since the temperature was much cooler in these underground passages, the Cryptoportiques were also employed as storage space.

Individual Entry Price Roman Baths: 5€

The Obelisk

After returning to street level, head out the doors from the city hall, which leads onto the Place de la République, the heart of the historic city center. Standing in the centre of the square is the monumental Obélisque d’Arles. The Obélisque d’Arles is one of the oldest surviving Roman obelisks in France. Standing approximately 15 meters (about 49 feet) in height. The Obelisk is made of reddish-pink granite, not native to France. This means that the Obelisk would have been brought in as far as Asian Minor in the region of Troy.

This majestic Obelisk dates back to the 4th century AD, although when it was first installed in the city, it stood in the centre of the Roman circus. A Roman circus, also known as “circus maximus” in Latin, was a large, elongated, and open-air venue used primarily for chariot racing, one of ancient Rome’s most popular and thrilling forms of entertainment. 

When the Roman circus was demolished, the Obelisk collapsed or was knocked down. Breaking it into two different parts. It wasn’t until 1389 that the Obelisk was discovered and brought into the Amphitheatre to be displayed. In 1676, Louis XIV decreed it should be moved into the town square. And four engravings dedicated to the glory of Louis XIV were added. The decorative base was added in the 19th century, along with the fountain’s basin and surrounding bronze lion head water spouts.

Church of St. Trophime

On the east side of the town square stands the great Church of St. Trophime.  While the majority of the church we see today was completed in the 12th century, such an extraordinary structure took time to complete, and there are elements from the 11th century and even earlier still to be found throughout.

The church is named for Saint Trophimus, one of the early Christian saints and the first bishop of Arles. Originally the church was named Saint Stephen, but in 972, the relics of Saint Trophimus were reinterred, and the church was renamed in his honour.

Its exterior facade, adorned with exquisite Romanesque carvings, is a magnificent example of medieval artistry and storytelling through art. Back in the medieval era, peasants were barely literate. Communicating these religious ideas and stories through art and imagery was paramount.

The Portal

The elaborate portal, known as the “Portal of the Last Judgment,” is the doorway through which visitors have entered the church for hundreds of years. For our purposes on this tour of Roman art and architecture in Arles, you should note how the archway leading into the church is reminiscent of a Roman triumphal arch.

The Tympanum

In the semi-circle above the doorway is the tympanum. Here we can see the image of Christ, seated, holding the Bible on his knees. On either side of him are found animals representing the four evangelists. The winged lion for Saint Mark, an angel for Saint Matthew, an eagle for Saint John and a winged bull for Saint Luke. Surrounding the archivolt (a moulding that frames the arch) is a choir of angels with vivid expressions; you can hear them singing.

Lintels and Pilasters

The lintel, the band of stone that runs under the tympanum, depicts the souls of the dead in a The souls on the left are dressed in fine garb procession bound for judgement. The souls on the left (the righteous) march towards the centre, led by an angel with outstretched wings towards the twelve apostles. They are seated in the centre, holding a book on their knees, ready for judgment. On the right, we have the souls of the damned, who have been turned away as they walk naked and chained toward their doom.

The pilasters that support the lintel are also very interesting, and it’s worth studying the intricate carvings on their base. Evil beasts and monsters torment the souls of the damned. And the huge face of Samson’s slain lion is almost wrapped around the base of the column. These tormented scenes are contrasted above, with the column capitals covered in various decorative elements like acanthus leaves, foliage, and vegetal motifs, almost like they depict heaven and hell throughout this imagery.

Outer Frieze

A frieze behind the pilasters depicts the major saints of the Church, including Saint Stephen and Saint Trophime. You can spot Saint Trophime on the left dressed in his episcopal costume holding a curved cane, a Crozier, in his hand. He is also seen being crowned two angles.

If you look closely, there is a secondary frieze above the apostles which illustrates the childhood of Christ. Starting with the Annunciation made to Mary, the dream of Joseph into the Massacre of the Innocents and the Flight to Egypt and finally, the Nativity.

Interior

Entry into the church’s interior is free, but the St. Trophime Cloisers, located next door, require an admission fee. Thankfully if you purchased the Pass Avantage, this is included in your pass. We will explore the cloisters after briefly walking through the church’s interior.

Aubusson Tapestries

Entering the church, we can tell right away that this is a romanesque construction. The columns are thick and rudimentary. Lacking the lightness of many later gothic churches. There is a heavy atmosphere inside. The stoney interior of the church is lacking in carved decorations. Several side chapels were rebuilt during the Gothic periods, as these are doubtlessly the most elaborate designs inside the church. To add some interest to the austere church, tapestries were hung on the blank walls. These date back to the 17th century and illustrate scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary.

Early Christian sarcophagi

Throughout the church, see if you can spot the three early Christian sarcophagi that were brought to the church from their original resting place in Les Alsycamps. Unlike the remaining tombs in Les Alsycamps, these sarcophagi are covered in complicated and precise carvings. They almost appear architectural in their design, comprising arches, pilasters and niches that frame tiny figures representing various biblical stories. The earliest of these tombs dates to the 4th century, although they only made this church their resting place in the 19th century.

Chapel of Saint-Genès

Make a point to stop at the chapel of Saint-Genès to the north of the transept. This is where one of the old sarcophagi is held and where you can find a beautiful white marble statue of the Virgin Mary. This statue was originally placed in the Saint-Honorat-des-Alyscamps and is a great example of the beautiful decorations that would have once adorned the church we saw at the start of this tour.

Reliquary chapel

My favourite part of the church is the reliquary chapel. Hidden behind a filagree wrought-iron gate, under a blue-painted ceiling with stars dotting the sky, are dozens of golden reliquaries. A reliquary is a container to house and display relics, which are objects or remains believed to have a special connection to a saint or religious figure. These reliquaries are stunning works of art all on their own. The most important of these reliquaries is that of Saint Trophimus, patron of the church. But you can also see reliquary for Saint Stephen, Saint Anne, and even the Mother of Mary.

Cloître Saint-Trophime

Exiting the church, walk back onto the square and pass through the Palais de l’Archevêché. This leads you into an interior courtyard where you’ll find the entrance to the Cloître Saint-Trophime. Initially, the church would have been connected to these cloisters, but since the cloisters now require a ticketed entry, this side entrance was constructed to filter guests into the building here. Walking through this courtyard, be sure to admire the exquisite vantage point you have here to gaze up at the old Romanesque church tower.

History of Cloître Saint-Trophime

The Cloître Saint-Trophime was built during the 12th and 13th centuries. It served as the monastery’s private quarters for the canons of Saint-Trophime. It was a place for them to gather for prayer, contemplation, and meditation. Providing a quiet and peaceful sanctuary away from the hustle and bustle of daily life. Surrounding the cloisters are a dormitory, refectory and dining hall were also built where the canons could continue their private life outside the church. But just as these buildings were being constructed, the Counts of Provence moved from Arles to Aix and much of the wealth that the city had been used to dissipated.

Another big hit to the continued construction of the Cloisters was in 1348 when the Black Death came to Provence, vastly reducing the population of almost every infected. When the canons filled the cloister, these buildings became granaries and storehouses for food. As such, when you visit the dormitory, refectory and dining hall interiors, you’ll notice a difference in the style of these buildings.

The highlight of the cloister is its exquisite arcades adorned with elaborately sculpted capitals. These capitals depict various biblical scenes and religious figures. Each is intricately carved with meticulous detail.

Interior Courtyard

West Gallery

You enter through the gallery’s west portions into a space built around 1375. The southern and western galleries, built later in the construction of the cloisters, are Gothic, whereas the north and east galleries are Romasnaques.

The images on the columns here are devoted to religious figures and scenes popular in Provence. You” find the story of Samson slaying the lion, the stoning of St. Stephen, Mary Magdalene kissing Christ’s feet and the Coronation of the Virgin.

North Gallery

Each section of the cloisters is divided into the north, south, east and west galleries. The North Gallery’s main themes you can keep your eyes looking to spot as you stroll through the cloister. This is the resurrection of Christ and the glorification of the patron saints of the city, Saint Trophime and Saint Stephen.

Saint Trophime

To find Saint Trophime, head to the northwest corner of the cloisters. He stands with his right palm facing the viewer while the left holds onto his curved crook, although the top of the cane has since been broken off and lost to history. On his right and left, respectively, are Saint Peter and Saint John. Saint Peter sent Saint Trophime to Gaul, now modern-day France, to evangelize the people there and become Archbishop of Arles.

Above the doorways, you can make out the coat of arms carved onto the lintel. This image represents the coat of arms of Arles. You can see an eagle with spread wings wide; this symbolized the Holy Roman Emperor, who at the time ruled Arles.

Eastern Gallery

The eastern gallery columns focus on the passion of Christ. Throughout the carvings, you can see the Christ being flogged bare-chested while tied to a column. Judas is also widely represented here, carrying the purse of coins given to Judas in exchange for his betrayal and that fateful kiss. We also can spot scenes from the last supper.

South Gallery

The south gallery features columns telling how Saint Trophime became a saint. You can see depictions of St. Trophime and Christ himself blessing the Alyscamps, the miracles they performed, and even how they brought a knight back to life! See if you can spot the scene of falsely accursed men being hanged on the gibbet who were saved by Saint Trophime. And faced with this miracle, King Charlemagne was forced to set them free.

Be sure to take a walk inside the old stone dormitory building. Despite being completely empty, it’s worth entering to admire the ethereal glow of the tiny yet intricately painted, stained glass window that cast a golden glow into the room.

Heading to the second level, you can walk around the upper deck, which wraps around the lower level’s courtyard. From this vantage point, you have a stunning view of the cloisters below and an exquisite view of the old Romanesque Bell tower of the adjoining church.

Individual Entry Price the Cloisters: 6€

Jardin Des Arts

The cloisters are where we end the historical walking tour of Arles. But if you’re in search of the perfect on-theme place to enjoy a final meal in Arles, make your way to the Jardin Des Arts restaurant. This restaurant is located inside a 13th-century cloister. The Order of the Trinitarians founded their church here in 1198. And built a beautiful cloister and gardens where they lived and worked.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by lili mani (@mlaeti08)

During the Revolution, the property was abandoned and partially destroyed. All that remained was the nave and some parts of the old cloister galleries. Thanks to the restaurant’s efforts, many remaining spaces have been restored and transformed into stunning restaurants. You can eat inside below the old vaults or outside on their charming outdoor terrace, where you can relax amongst the beautiful greenery. The menu features some classic French dishes, but if you’ve never tried Daube, this is a wonderful place to try this Provencal classic.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Caroline Generosi (@gourmicom)

As you drive back to your home base or enjoy your dinner on the terrace, I hope you reflect on the wonderful journey we have taken into the ancient past of Arles. Hopefully, this tour allowed you to imagine yourself in the fascinating world of gladiators, emperors, and Roman antiquities. And that you leave Arles with a new sense of appreciation for all the people of this city who have helped preserve their past for generations to come.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Historical Walking Tour of Ancient Arles first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Van Gogh Museum (@vangoghmuseum)

Van Gogh was born in Zundert but spent one of the most important years of his life as a painter in Arles, France. Arles and the provincial countryside inspired Van Gogh to create brighter and more exciting landscapes. This walking tour will wind you across the city, through its narrow, quaint and beautiful cobblestone backstreets. Our journey takes us along the Rhone River and into the various picturesque squares that Arles is famous for. The walking tour will show you the various works of art that Van Gogh painted while living in Arles and the buildings he frequented as a resident of this historic city. 

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Van Gogh Museum (@vangoghmuseum)

Table Of Contents

1. History
2. Accommodation
3. Access
4. Walking Tour
5. The Alyscamps
6. Jardin d’Eté 
7. Roman Amphitheatre
8. Rue Voltaire
9. Restaurant Carrel
10. Yellow House
11. Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône
12. Musée Réattu
13. Vincent van Gogh Foundation Arles
14. Place du Forum
15. Le Café Van Gogh
16. Old Arles Hospital
17. The Bridge of Trinquetaille
18. Get the Downloadable PDF of the Van Gogh Arles Walking Tour!

History

Roman Arles

Arles, a large city in the French region of Provence, has a long history that dates back to Roman times. Back then, it was one of the most important cities in the Empire. There are signs of occupations as early as 800 BC. The Romans took over the town in 123 BC and continued to enrich the city with their incredible architecture and infrastructure. Emperor Constantine I built the Roman bathhouses. His son, Constantine II, was born in Arles as the emperor had made it a home away from home. In 408 BC, the new emperor Constantine made Arles the capital city of Rome. Arles became a cultural and religious centre throughout the late Roman Empire.

For hundreds of years, the city of Arles continued to hold absolute authority over those in power. Arles joined the countship of Provence in 1239. Due to its proximity to the river, it was a mighty trade city. But in the 19th century, with the advent of the railroad, its significance began to diminish. The town became stagnant, with little to no modern development.

Van Gogh Comes to Arles

But this relic from the past was precisely why Van Gogh was so drawn to the city. The city was full of memories yet peaceful enough to feel like an escape. Everywhere he looked, it seemed as if something was waiting to be discovered.

Sadly, after years of poverty and suffering from various mental illnesses, Van Gogh committed suicide at age 37. But this was not the end of his story. Despite not being appreciated during his lifetime, his impact in the history books is unmatched. And Van Gogh’s stories from Arles put the city back on the map. After years of almost being forgotten, the city suddenly was a hot spot for visitors trying to follow in his footsteps.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Van Gogh Studio (@vangoghstudio_amsterdam)

Accommodation

If you want to spend a night in Arles, the best place to stay is the little B&B, L’aubergine Rouge. This little hotel is tucked away in the southwest corner of Arles on one of the most darling streets you’ll ever wander down. They have several rooms inspired by the painter where you’ll feel like you’re sleeping inside of his paintings.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Van Gogh Studio (@vangoghstudio_amsterdam)

Access

Most people arriving in Arles arrive either by car or by train. Arles is just an hour from Marseille, 35 minutes from Nimes, and 40 minutes from Avignon if you rent a car. Often you’ll find if you are travelling from either Nimes, Marseille or Avignon, the train is often an even faster journey than driving! So long as the departure and arrival times align with your plans. The train from Nimes is 30 minutes, Marseille takes 45 minutes, and Avignon is only a 20 minutes journey. Most days, trains arrive and depart about every hour from these cities.

If you are driving into Arles for the day, the best place to park your car is in the Parking Garage near the Post Office. This is just on the outskirts of town, meaning you won’t have to drive through too many narrow streets. Since it’s a little outside the centre, you also won’t have to pay a huge mark up for being in the middle of town. This parking lot is very reasonably priced and right beside the first stop on our tour.

Walking Tour

The Alyscamps

The first stop on the walking tour is the Alyscamps Necropolis. The Alyscamps is one of the oldest Roman ruins in Arles. Roman cities didn’t allow burials inside the city limit for fear of dead infecting the living. Therefore, roads into the city were often lined with tombs and mausoleums. And the Alyscamps was THE place to be buried! People had bodies shipped from all over Europe for the honour of being buried here. 

But during the middle ages, when it became more traditional to be buried in a church graveyard, the Alyscamps fell out of fashion. In the Renaissance, old roman sarcophagi were given as gifts to visiting dignitaries. And others were looted by local thieves. All of this contributed to the Alyscamps falling into disrepair, and eventually, it was a forgotten piece of history. The site was wild and overgrown and yet a naturally beautiful environment.

When Van Gogh arrived in Arles, it was still a ruin. He painted four scenes here in 1888, sitting in front of the ancient Roman ruins. Paul Gauguin was staying with Van Gogh during this period. Although their relationship was fraught with hardship, it also inspired the best in both artists. Van Gogh gifted one of his Alyscamps paintings to Gaugin. And even lost past his death, this painting hung in Gaugin’s room for years. Since Van Gogh made it famous once more, the UNESCO World Heritage group has turned it into a heritage site. And restored much of the place to be appreciated by visitors once more.

Jardin d’Eté 

Walk north along the Avenue des Alyscamps and turn left down Avenue Victor Hugo. On the north side of the street, you will begin to see the bright green grass of the Jardin d’Eté starting to peek through. 

The Jardin d’Eté is a relaxing urban park situated against the backdrop of the ancient Roman amphitheatre. There are dozens of fountains and playgrounds, so it’s a great place for kids to have a nice runaround.

For Van Gogh, it was a place he would often come to paint on sunny, summer days. In a letter to his sister, he wrote of the gardens in the park:

I don’t know whether you can understand that one may make a poem by arranging colours…Similarly, the bizarre lines, purposely selected and multiplied, meandering all through the picture may not present a literal image of the garden, but they may present it to our minds as if in a dream.

Van Gogh

Roman Amphitheatre

Walk north along the pathways in the park until you can exit to the east of the Roman Amphitheatre. You’ll walk out onto Rue Porte de Laure. Continue walking along until you reach the imposing Roman Arena. Built in 90 AD, the amphitheatre was capable of seating over 20,000 spectators. People would come from far and wide to watch chariot races and bloody hand-to-hand battles. Unlike the Colosseum in Rome, this amphitheatre is still used for concerts and festivals to this very day.

Vincent went to many bullfights in his time in Arles. He wrote to his friend: 

Have seen bullfights in the arenas. The crowd was magnificent, great multicoloured crowds. One on top of the other on 2, three tiers, with the effect of sun and shade and the shadow cast by the immense circle.

Van Gogh

Van Gogh painted a scene in 1888 entitled Arena in Arles. The painting is more focused on the spectators than the action or environment. It is a rough and tumble painting. Quick brush strokes and unfinished shapes are obscured in the background. The speed of the painting reflects the voracious atmosphere of the bullfights. A small bull can be seen off in the distance. Spectators are excitedly turning to chat with their neighbours and cheering for their favourite fighters.

This jittery motion used throughout the painting was a technique that Van Gogh perfected under Gauguin’s influence. His paintings of dance halls also had the same, almost unfinished approach. This technique conveyed to the viewer the idea that some spaces were filled with such powerful energy they simply couldn’t be captured in a moment of stillness.

Rue Voltaire

From the arena, walk north along Rue Voltaire. Walking down this street is like taking a step back in time. Dozens of vibrant cafes and restaurants pour out onto the street. Dazzling awnings hang off ancient stone buildings. Pastel shutters brighten up the rainiest day. You will see so many little scenes as you walk, which could have stepped right out from one of Van Gogh’s paintings.

Restaurant Carrel

When you reach Rue Léon Blum, turn left and stop on the corner of Rue Amédée Pichot. When Van Gogh first moved to Arles, he stayed in a room above the Restaurant Carrel, owned by Albert Carrel and his wife. Vincent wrote to his brother Theo when he arrived in Arles:

At times it seems to me that my blood is more or less ready to start circulating again, which wasn’t the case lately in Paris, I really couldn’t stand it anymore.

Van Gogh

Shortly after arriving in Arles, the lack of creativity he experienced in Paris disappeared. With his creative spark alight once more, he painted View of a Butcher’s Shop. One can imagine that this butcher shop perhaps was painted from the very room he stayed in. Walking up and down this otherwise ubiquitous street gives you a sense of the area Vincent first called home in Arles.

But Van Gogh didn’t live on this street for long as he often had mighty disagreements with his landlord. While he might not have loved his landlord, he did love the neighbourhood. It wouldn’t be long until Van Gogh would soon move into his iconic Yellow House, which was just up the street.

As you near the end of the Street, Rue Voltaire turns into Rue de less Cavalerie. You will pass through the two giant aged guard towers. These towers are surrounded on either side by the ancient city walls.

Yellow House

Across the roundabout, at the corner of Rue Georges Tinarage and Avenue de Stalingrad, is a simple restaurant. But this was once where you would have found Van Gogh’s beloved home. The same one featured in his painting The Yellow House. 

The original house had four rooms and a small studio. Vincent painted the entire building bright, sunflower yellow. In the painting, you can see a train rushing by in the distance. These trains were Vincent’s way into the countryside, his beloved muse. More than any woman. He loved the city, but the wild sunflower fields, blossoming fruit trees, charming peasants and golden wheat fields were where his brush came alive.

Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône

Turning left, make your way towards the Rhone River. Here you’ll find the scene from painting Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône. Don’t get this mixed up with Starry Night, although they are both very similar and show Van Gogh’s obsession with capturing night effects. In a letter he wrote to his brother Theo, he said:

Often it seems to me the night is even more richly coloured than the day.

Van Gogh

Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône is an explosion of blue; Prussian blue, ultramarine and cobalt. Each one of these colours are contrasted with intense orange and yellow. The firery colours representing the gas lights reflecting in the water. A man and his wife walk along the shore away three boats, bobbing in the water. Whereas Starry Night is a dreamlike fury of brush strokes, Nuit étoilée sure le Rhône is a much calmer scene. The brush strokes are evenly spaced, and even the lights on the water are still. Not a single ripple seems to disturb them.

Musée Réattu

Continue walking down the water’s edge. The fantastic pedestrian promenade is ideal for taking in all the sights along the river. After about five minutes, you’ll reach the Musée Réattu. When Van Gogh lived in Arles the museum was a place he hated. He is quoted as saying:

The women are beautiful here, it’s no joke — on the other hand, the Arles museum is dreadful and a joke.

Van Gogh

Van Gogh was very judgmental of other artists. Perhaps out of jealousy of those who seemed to manage to make the kind of living, he would never. During his lifetime, he only sold one painting. He couldn’t understand how people could see the greatest in these artists and not himself.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Musée Réattu (@musee.reattu)

Vincent van Gogh Foundation Arles

As a cosmic coincidence, the Vincent van Gogh Foundation in Arles is located only a few minutes south of the Musée Réattu. In 1983, Yolande Clergue founded the Association for the Creation of the Foundation Van Gogh. He was a long-time resident of Arles and believed there should be an institute to study and educate people on Van Gogh’s influence on modern artists in Provence. In 2010, the city of Arles gave the historic Hôtel Léautaud de Donines to the institute. It was renovated to become an educational space.

The museum features a large collection of Van Gogh’s letters and perhaps one or two original Van Gogh paintings. Don’t come here expecting to see those famous works of art. The museum is meant to highlight modern artists influenced by Van Gogh and the city of Arles.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Katrina Burton (@treeburton)

Place du Forum

Walking along Rue du Dr Fanton and turning down Rue de la Place, you will come up the Place du Forum. The Place du Forum was once the historic city centre during the Roman ages. You can still see one of the ancient columns embedded into the side of the Nord-Pinus Grand Hotel.

Vincent’s fixation on the appearance of the world at night continues and is highlighted in Café Terrace at Night. He said in a letter:

In the past, they used to draw, and paint the picture from the drawing in the daytime. But I find that it suits me to paint the thing straight away. It’s quite true that I may take a blue for green in the dark, a blue lilac with a pink lilac since you can’t make out the nature of the tone. But it’s the only way of getting away from the conventional black night with a poor, pallid and whitish light, while in fact, a mere candle by itself gives us the richest yellows and oranges.

Van Gogh

Le Café Van Gogh

Despite Vincent’s lack of popularity in his lifetime, Van Gogh is big business these days. Le Café Van Gogh is a recreation of the original cafe from the painting. Although it’s not the authentic spots from the painting, it has been done up to look as much like the real thing as possible. While the square is pretty busy and expensive, it is also a stunning place to sit with a coffee and enjoy the scenery. 

Old Arles Hospital

Walk south from the forum until you reach the Old Arles Hospital. One evening, after Gauguin had made it clear to Vincent that he had made plans to leave, Van Gogh returned home alone. Suffering from hearing voices, especially when left alone, Van Gogh was tormented. In a fit of madness, he cut off his ear. Perhaps as a means to cut out the noise of the voices. Van Gogh bandaged the wound and wrapped the ear in the paper. He delivered it to a cleaning woman who worked at a local brothel that Gaugin and Van Gogh frequented together.

Van Gogh was found unconscious by a policeman and taken directly to the Old Arles Hospital the following day. Félix Rey, a young doctor still in training, treated him inside his hospital. Van Gogh was diagnosed with “acute mania with generalized delirium during his time in hospital.” Vincent would go from being semi-lucid to suffering from hallucinations and delusions. His brother Theo came to visit him in hospital despite getting engaged the day previous. Nothing would keep Theo from being by Vincent’s side.

Hospital in Arles

Dr. Rey felt sorry for Vincent. He would allow Vincent into the courtyard to paint on his more lucid days. And paint he did. Even today, this courtyard manages to bring a sense of peace to even the most scattered mind. The golden walls seem to glow in the sunlight. The garden is full of lustrous flowers which burst open in the afternoon. Van Gogh’s painting, Hospital in Arles, depicted the courtyard in 1888. Looking at it today, you can barely see the passage of time between the two.

Ward in the Hospital in Arles

He also created two other paintings during his stay in the hospital. One was a gift to Dr. Félix Rey. It was a portrait of the beloved doctor who showed Vincent genuine kindness. The second painting is entitled Ward in the Hospital in Arles. The scene is quiet and simple. But Vincent’s slight distortions represent the isolation and confinement while living here. 

Starry Night

In 1889, Van Gogh was committed to the Saint-Paul de Mausole asylum in Saint-Rémy de Provence. From there managed to channel his pain into one of the most impactful paintings, Starry Night. This painting is all about dreams versus reality. The natural versus the divine. It brings us into the beautiful madness inside Van Gogh’s mind. In his mind, he lived in the stars, beloved and looked up to by everyone on earth. The swirling, fluid paint in the sky contrasts the rigid city landscape below. Like a window into the heavens, a wonderful dream, unlike our structured reality. 

The Bridge of Trinquetaille

Walking back towards the river, walk up the water’s edge. Here you can see the scene from the painting of The Bridge of Trinquetaille. Van Gogh was in love with bridges. They are frequently featured in his works. In a letter to his brother, he wrote:

I have a View of the Rhône — the Trinquetaille iron bridge, where the sky and the river are the colour of absinthe — the quays a lilac tone, the people leaning on the parapet almost black, the iron bridge an intense blue — with a bright orange note in the blue background and an intense Veronese green note. One more effort that’s far from finished — but one at least where I’m attempting something more heartbroken and therefore more heartbreaking.

Van Gogh

Walk out to the centre of the Pont de Trinquetaille, where you’ll have a beautiful view across the Rhone River. Looking out, see if you can spot all those magnificent colours Van Gogh spoke about in his letter. Van Gogh is an artist whose use of colour is unparalleled. He saw the world in a way that many of us simply miss. Take this time to yourself. Put away your phone or camera for the moment and simply look over the horizon.

While Van Gogh’s depression was something he couldn’t overcome, there is no doubt that, at least for a time, Arles gave him a momentary respite from the overwhelming sadness he felt in his soul. And no matter who you are, I hope that visiting Arles brings you the same sense of peace Van Gogh felt when he was here. You may even see a little bit of that magic Van Gogh etched into history. And bring a little bit of that magic home with you too!

Get the Downloadable PDF of the Van Gogh Arles Walking Tour!

The post The Ultimate Self Guided Walking Tour of Arles, in the Footsteps of Van Gogh first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.