Table Of Contents

1. How to Get to Sintra & the Moorish Castle
   • When to Visit the Moorish Castle
2. Accessing the Moorish Castle
   • Uber
   • Walking to the Moorish Castle
3. Hours & Admission
   • Why Visit?
   • Accessibility
4. History of the Moorish Castle
   • King Alfonso VI
   • Castle of the Moors
5. Entrance to the Castle
7. Granaries
9. Archaeological Tombs
11. Church of São Pedro de Canaferrim
13. Stables
15. Cisterns
17. Castle Walls
19. Arms Square
21. Door of Betrayal
23. Wall Pathways
25. Tower Keep
27. Royal Tower
29. Happy Travel Adventurers

How to Get to Sintra & the Moorish Castle

The Moorish Castle is located in Sintra and easily accessible from Lisbon by trains leaving Rossio station. The trip requires no transfers and takes around 40 minutes. The round-trip journey costs just 4.50€, making it one of the most cost-efficient day trips. There are trains out to Sintra almost every 40 minutes. If you plan to visit the Moorish Castle as a part of a ‘Day Trip to Sintra,’ where you’ll see a few of the fantastic residences, I highly recommend getting the train before 8 am.

The train schedule changes slightly throughout the year, so I didn’t want to give you an exact time but leaving before 8 am means you’ll arrive before 9 am giving yourself plenty of time to get to your first destination with some time to spare before it opens. Sintra seems to explode with tourist buses as the morning wears on so early really pays off. But if you’re only planning on visiting the Moorish Castle, you don’t need to worry too much about crowds or leaving early. The Moorish Castle is the least crowded of all the sights since, even on busy days, the large open spaces allow everyone to spread out so it never seems too crowded.

When to Visit the Moorish Castle

Since the Moorish Castle is entirely located outside, visiting on a beautiful day will make your experience much more enjoyable. Winter is when you’ll find the least tourists, and if you can brave the weather, the almost abandoned appearance of the castle is something extraordinary to experience. Summertime can be a bit hot, so just be sure to lather on sunscreen if you’ll be out all day. Spring and Fall are the happy medium of pleasant weather and medium crowds. Monday-Thursday is reliably the least busy time throughout the week to visit. Avoid holidays when possible, as these bring in Portuguese tourists.

Accessing the Moorish Castle

There are three options for getting to the Moorish Castle. The first is to take public buses located right outside Sintra Station. The bus to take is #434, which services the Moorish Castle. This bus tends to have pretty big lines up at the train station stop since everyone getting on needs to purchase their day ticket, which slows things down. But once you have your pass, it’s super easy to jump on and off throughout the day. Tickets for this bus cost 5€ for a 24-hour pass.

Uber

The second option is jumping in an Uber. Ubers are a great way to get around Sintra but be warned that because some of the streets are one way up a long and winding hill, some drivers might take a while to get to you or might cancel frequently. The Uber ride from the train station to the Moorish Castle is around 6€ depending on the time of day and the weather. If you’re travelling with 3 or 4 people, Uber can save you some money, and if there is a big lineup for the bus, it can save you some time. If you haven’t used Uber before, download the app and use my referral code, rds9f, to get $5 off your first ride!

Walking to the Moorish Castle

The third option is to walk. Walking from the train station to the Moorish Castle takes about 45 minutes, but if you’re keen on hiking, this is a great opportunity. There are maps of the hiking trails available at the tourist information centre. The best walk to take, which is the most direct, is the path via the Rampa do Castelo, which takes you through a shortcut directly up to the castle. I’ve added a map below to both the pathway to the Moorish Castle and Pena Palace since the free maps can sometimes be a little tough to follow, but the signage on the actual trails is quite good.

Hours & Admission

Since the Moorish Castle isn’t as insanely busy as Pena Palace, if you’re only visiting this one castle, you don’t need to worry too much about buying tickets in advance. Although buying them online in advance will save you 5% and also means it’s one less thing to do once you arrive. Tickets are valid for the entire year, so even if you buy them and plan on visiting one day, which gets rained out, you can easily change things around without being beholden to ticket dates and times.

You can also purchase them on your phone and show the e-ticket, no need to print out the physical document. If you can’t buy online in advance, there is a ticket booth at the entrance where you can buy them. Tickets for adults (18 – 64) cost 8€, youths (6 – 17) cost 6,5€ and seniors (over 65) are 6,5€. The castle is open from 9:30 am to 8 pm, with the last entry to the castle at 7 pm. The castle is open all year except December 25th and January 1st.

Why Visit?

Compared to sites like Pena Palace, the Sintra National Palace or the Quinta da Regaleira, the Moorish Castle might seem a little plain and uninteresting. There is no arguing that it is indeed the castle with the least amount of glitz, but what I found so impactful was the sheer depth of history you could feel within these walls. Pairing this place with the other castles was a stark contrast I appreciated, like a breath of fresh air. Some people skip this castle thinking it will be a little boring, but hiking along the ramparts was one of the most exciting parts of the day trip! I won’t miss it if you have the time!

Accessibility

Many people may not know when visiting this castle that the restoration project which took place to restore the castle was aimed at making it more accessible to people with mobility issues. In the depths of the forest, beside rocky cliff-sides and ancient ruins, you might be surprised to hear that there are special pathways all around the castle that visitors in wheelchairs can use. They have even made one of the castle’s wall lookouts accessible via a new wheelchair ramp to ensure all visitors get a glimpse across the countryside. I was so impressed when I researched this online and saw all the different accessibility ramps they can bring for those guests, even into a place built in the 9th century.

History of the Moorish Castle

The Moorish Castle is one of the oldest parts of Sintra. It was built in the 8th and 9th centuries by the Moors. “Moors” was a general term for the Muslim Moors from North Africa who came to Portugal. They brought with them their rich architectural histories, which generations would continue to be inspired by. This location was of mighty military power since it was located at a high vantage point above the town of Sintra, looking out over the River Tagus. From here, soldiers could keep guard against any incoming enemy ships. Sintra was a powerful township as the fields were full of fertile soil, and the farms around the hills were reliable producers of everything from grains to legumes.

King Alfonso VI

In 1093 a Christian crusade led by King Alfonso VI of Castile attempted to overtake the castle, but they were driven out by the overwhelming Moorish forces. But in 1147, the Christian forces of the Reconquista were finally powerful enough to take the castle from the Moors for the Christians. It was used for military defences during the 14th century, but eventually, it feels to ruins when it was no longer needed for security and more of the country’s power began to shift towards Lisbon as it was the city center.

Over the next few hundred years, it became almost completely abandoned. In the 15th century, when the Jews were expelled from Lisbon, they came here to live. But in 1636, a lightning storm caused a large fire which disseminated the castle, and a massive earthquake in 1755 levelled the remains of the battlements. Many thought that the castle would be lost to the ages as it sunk farther and farther into ruins.

Castle of the Moors

But when King Ferdinand II bought Pena Palace, he also took some interest in the Castle of the Moors. Ferdinand had a passion for history and took it upon himself to start preserving the remains of the castle and rebuilding the portions beyond repair. He loved looking at the stunning Moorish castle walls from his terrace, and when he visited the Moorish Castle, he could walk around the tower walls to the best view over his storybook castle found anywhere in Sintra. They both were like children to him, and the care (and financial aid) he sunk into these hilltop castles doesn’t go unnoticed even hundreds of years later.

Entrance to the Castle

While the entrance to the Moorish Castle, where you’ll find the ticket booth, is right off the side of the road, the journey towards the interior door is about a 15-minute walk from there, around the second ring of castle walls. You’ll stroll along a rolling pathway leading you around the castle’s exterior. Look up as you examine the old stone walls above the steep hillside around you. These secondary castle walls were built to protect the surrounding population and their animals and crops from invaders.

Granaries

Along the route toward the entrance, you can spot the excavated areas where a few large granaries were used to store cereals and legumes. These ingenious storage containers were brought to Portugal by the enterprising Moors.

Archaeological Tombs

Just outside the entrance, you’ll find an area where archaeological excavations were undertaken by King Ferdinand II. There, he found hundreds of bones buried under the soil. Today, there is a glass cover which reveals replicas of the skeletons which were discovered buried here. The King made a point to collect all the bones and inter them in a small tomb. The tomb is engraved with the symbol of a crescent and a cross and bears the following epitaph, “What man has joined only God will set apart.” In King Ferdinand’s time, this is because there was no way of telling if the bones were from the Christians or the Muslim inhabitants, and yet Ferdinand wanted to give them all a proper dedication.

Church of São Pedro de Canaferrim

In front of the main gates of the castle, you’ll find a small romantic-style chapel. This chapel, called Church of São Pedro de Canaferrim, was first built in the 12th century by King Afonso Henriques after the Christian invasion but was rebuilt by Ferdinand in a style he much preferred. The church now contains relics found on the site, some from the Neolithic area (5000 BC) and other important artifacts from the 10th-12th century Islamic cultures who lived here.

Stables

Upon entering through the Curtain Wall, to the left of the archway is the site of the old stables. A newly built stylized wooden structure is where you can find the Visitor Centre and get a map of the castle’s interior. It’s also where you can find the shop, washrooms and cafe. The cafe’s small terrace with a few patio tables is an excellent place to recharge if you hike all the way up to the castle or even if you need a short rest before walking up the castle walls.

Cisterns

Outside the stables, walk around and see if you can spot the two massive stone cisterns. These are covered in an iron grate in the shape of an Arabic star. These large vaulted cisterns were built in the 13th century, and the tanks held over 600 cubic meters of water. Access to clean water was the lifeblood of a secluded castle, and these water wells meant that the citizens could hold up inside the safety of the walls without ever having to go outside during war. The cisterns were so important that legend says that beneath them were the burial chambers of the Moorish kings. Take a peek down below to see if you spot any ghosts of King’s past.

Castle Walls

Take a closer look at the walls of the castle. See if you can make out the four distinct different layers of which they’re made up. Each one tells the story of the people who ruled over this structure. The first layer is made of granite blocks which rest on the bedrock over what was once an Islamic house and silos in the 12th century. The second phase was a reconstruction using ancient techniques made in the 12-13th century. The third phase was built in the 19th century when King Ferdinand took possession of the castle and helped with its restoration. The last stage was built in the 20th century when the castle became a tourist destination run by the government, and steps were taken to ensure its safety and strength for future generations.

Arms Square

The large open courtyard in the center of the castle is called the ‘Pracad de Armas‘ or Arms Square. This was where the military garrison would gather in the 13th century. When it was remodelled by King Ferdinand later in the 19th century, into a garden oasis. It was a space for contemplation and is still a beautiful area for people to sit and enjoy the view if they cannot manage the hike up the castle walls.

Door of Betrayal

In the centre of the Arms Square, you can spot a small wooden door, slightly hidden down half a level. Despite its ubiquitous appearance, this door has one of the darkest histories of the castle. It’s called the “Door of Betrayal” as the passageway provided discrete access to the castle’s exterior as a means of escape, or in another case, as a means to let the enemy inside the castle, hence the name; Door of Betrayal.

Wall Pathways

We visited on an especially windy day, and despite this, we walked the entire way to the top of the walls for a spectacular panorama across the countryside of Sintra. Walking up these walls, you feel like an explorer discovering ancient ruins. On a clear day, you can see across the Atlantic Ocean. We tried to spot all the locations we’d been to earlier in the day and were amazed at how far we’d walked!

Tower Keep

The first tower to visit along the walls of the castle is the Tower Keep. This was the stronghold where the local authorities would meet. It’s located at the highest point along the rampart and was where the guards had the best vantage points over the lands which needed protection.

From the Tower Keep, walk along the castle’s walls, making your way to the Royal Tower. This is where you’ll find the King’s favourite views over towards Pena Palace. You can still see flags flying high in the sky along the walls. One of the most significant flags is the green one, which has the word ‘Sintra’ written in Arabic as a dedication to the Moorish history of the palace.

Royal Tower

The Royal tower is the crowning glory of the castle. When you finally get to the top, the scenery is stupendous, perhaps made even more rewarding because of all the effort it takes to get there. You can stand holding the top flag pool and imagine yourself as one of the knights of the realm, looking out over the kingdom.

The walk down from the tower is much more leisurely, and although the landscape is the same going down as it was coming up, it seems different, almost like getting another angle on the entire vista. It’s incredible to observe the lush bushes, trees and flowers that sprout from within the rocks themselves. Things seem impossible to grow inside these rocks, yet these trees seem to be hundreds of years old. As old as the castle itself.

This brings us to the end of the tour; you can either make your way down to the bus stop, catch an uber, or hike the rest of the way back into town. I hope you enjoyed your time at the Moorish Castle; it was such a pleasant surprise when we visited, and well worth the effort climbing to the top! Let me know if the comment if you’ve ever travelled to Sintra and what your favourite castle you visited way!

Happy Travel Adventurers

The post The Best Self-Guided Tour of the Amazing Moorish Castle, Sintra’s Oldest World Heritage Site first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. History
2. Where to Stay
   • Hotel Le Madaleno $
   • Le Mas Des Carassins Hotel $$
   • Chateau De Roussan $$$
3. Access
4. Walking Tour
   • Santon Museum
   • Eyguieres Gate
   • Les Baux Jus
   • Manville Mansion City Hall
   • Yves Brayer Museum
   • Place St. Vincent
   • St. Vincent Church
   • The Church Of The Penitents
   • Une Table Au Soleil
5. The Castle of Les Baux
   • The Chapel Of Saint Blaise
   • Quiqueran Hospital
   • The Troglodyte Houses
   • The Sarrasine Tower
   • Dovecote Wall
   • The First Courtyard
   • The Keep
6. Carrières de Lumières

History

Les Baux-de-Provence has been home to the people of France as far back as 6000 BC. But it wasn’t until the Middle Ages that the town became a military stronghold for the surrounding villages. The original fortress was built in the 11th-13th century. It became known all over France as one of the most formidable citadels in the country. Today, the ruins of the castle and the tiny village below are popular tourist destinations. Visit this living museum to take a peek into Provence’s past.

Where to Stay

Les-Baux has dozens of quaint little hotels and chateaus where you can lay your head for a night. Or for the entirety of your stay in Provence if you like! Often you can find the most charming options outside the most popular cities. If you have a car and are heading around Provence, consider spending a night or two in Les-Baux.

Hotel Le Madaleno $

Hotel Le Madaleno is extremely reasonably priced for the historic and luxurious setting! Its red-painted facade with green shudders and ivy-covered exterior makes it a joy to look at from its crystal-clear swimming pool. Since the historic part of Les-Baux closes before dinner, most hotels offer their own dinner service. Dining alfresco, under the fairy lights, is one of the best parts of this hotel stay. Double rooms range from €79 – €99. Book through their website and save yourself 5%!

Le Mas Des Carassins Hotel $$

Le Mas Des Carassins in an oasis in Saint Remy, just a few minutes from Les-Baux. The hotel is located inside an old stone farmhouse built in the 19th century. The private grounds, large swimming pool and lush gardens nestled in the tree-lined hillside all act as a stunning backdrop. Standard Rooms go for €112 – €152. If you’re looking for something more opulent and large, book yourself a suite, perfect for a week-long stay.

 

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Chateau De Roussan $$$

If you’re looking to splash out some extra cash and want to feel what it was like to live like a French courtier, then Chateau de Roussan is for you. This chateau is home to herds of sheep, beautiful parklands and, of course, the French countryside. I love that the chateau didn’t renovate everything to the extreme when turning the old manor into a guest hotel. They let the place feel lived in, making it feel homier than hotely. Double rooms cost between €205 – €255, and Suites run €335 – €415.

 

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Access

Driving

To arrive in Les-Baux from Arles, take the D17 highway through the scenic hillsides. From Avignon, take the D570N. Both ways take around 30-40mins but be prepared to stop along the way. There are so many little vignettes of French country life along the roadside, so take your time and soak in all those little roadside attractions.

Parking

When you arrive in Les-Baux, there is a free parking lot where you can leave your car for the day, which I’ve marked on the map at the bottom of the post. There are additional paid parking lots if this one is full, ranging from 4-5 euros for the entire day. So either way, leaving your car here while exploring is not too expensive.

Taxi

If you happen not to be travelling by car through Provence, various taxi companies can arrange to drive you out to Les-Baux and schedule a time to bring you home. Talk to the concierge at your hotel for more information. This should cost you about 30-50 euros each way. While it’s not a cheap option, it is super convenient if you don’t have another means of transportation.

Bus

If you prefer to take the bus, #59 from Saint Remy or Arles will take you to Les-Baux. The bus schedule is restricted and often not running outside the high tourist season. Tickets only cost 2,20€, so it’s worth looking into if the timing works. Check the schedule for more information. There are also tour bus companies that run day trips to Les-Baux. But I often find these are rushed and tend to make superfluous stops along the way when you’d much prefer to spend quality time in one place.

Walking Tour

After parking your car, head into the lower town. The villagers lived in the lower town when the castle was in full swing. The small streets and stone houses are home to various restaurants, tourist shops and museums. While some people complain that the tourist trade has invaded the humble town, plenty of history is still steeped in these walls. The key to exploring the lower town is to look past the tourist shops and poke your head into tiny, seemingly empty alleyways. Look up above the souvenir storefronts to see pieces of the past hidden in the stone walls.

Tourist Office

When you first enter the town, stop at the tourist office inside the city gates. Here you can get a free map of the city and a list of exhibitions and pick up an audio guide if you prefer to follow along with their guided audio system. Throughout the village and castle ruins, there are dozens of numbered plaques which you can punch into the audio guide to get more detailed insights into the history of Les-Baux.

Santon Museum

If you aren’t in a rush, your first stop should be at the Santon Museum. A ‘santon’ is a small hand-painted figure made out of terracotta. They were originally produced to portray scenes of nativity and depict historical scenes of Provençal life. Even if you’re not interested in going inside, walking around the front of the building is recommended since the museum is inside the old guardhouse. The building still houses two dungeons built in the 16th century that housed prisoners until the Revolution.

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Eyguieres Gate

Continuing along Place Louis Jou, turn right at the fork in the road and head down the stairs towards the Eyguieres Gate. Until the 18th century, this gate was the only entry point into the city. After the newly formed city gates were created, the Eyguieres Gate led the villagers toward the Fountain Valley below. Since there is little else to see and do down this way, the tourist crowds are much less intense here, and you’ll be surprised to see that you have this iconic place all to yourself.

Look up at the top of the gate, where you can still make out the coat-of-arms of the House of Grimaldi. The Italian Grimaldi family helped Louis XIII defeat the Spanish in the 16th century and were gifted the town of Les-Baux and Saint-Rémy-de-Provence as a reward for their service. Today, you can still find their coat of arms throughout the city.

Les Baux Jus

There aren’t many quality restaurants if you’re here around breakfast or lunch. Despite it being such a wonderful place to visit, the restaurants here leave much to be desired. There are a few exceptions, and Les Baux Jus is one of those. It might not be for everyone, but this charming cafe serves local, organic food and fresh juice. They also provide a gluten-free menu if you have that dietary restriction. While it might seem a little trendy, there really isn’t a better way to experience the natural splendour of Provençal produce than in its raw form.

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Manville Mansion City Hall

The next stop is Manville Mansion City Hall. The building originated in the 15th century and was created for a rich Protestant family named Manville. The mansion was the first Renaissance design which graced the village and, for the time, was considered very “modern.” Along the outside of the Mansion, you can study the luxurious millioned windows, which provide a huge amount of light into the interior, which was seen as a luxury in the Renaissance era. Later, after the Manville’s moved out of Les-Baux. The mansion was transformed into the new City Hall. Today, you can come inside to see various art exhibits on display.

Yves Brayer Museum

Turning to the right, head towards the Yves Brayer Museum. Brayer was an expressionist like Van Gogh, who spent most of his life in Les-Baux, inspired by the incredible landscapes surrounding him. Entry is €8 per person, but if you’re interested in expressionist paintings, this is a joyful little museum. The museum is inside one of the most magnificently preserved houses in town, which is a nice bonus.

Place St. Vincent

Just past the Brayer Museum is Place St. Vincent. In the centre of the square stands an ancient cross surrounded by lush green trees. On either side of the square are two of the oldest buildings in Les-Baux; St. Vincent Church and the Church of Penitent.

St. Vincent Church

St. Vincent’s is one of the three original town churches. This Romanesque church was built in the 12th century. While Romanesque architecture might not be the most impressive and elaborate, there is something so humbling about the simplicity of its design. Inside is a pure layout of a nave and two small side aisles complete with Romanesque arches. The funeral chapel inside the church is built right into the side of the rock. The chapel holds the remains of the Manville family whose mansion we saw earlier. The modern stained glass, added in the 20th century, gives a bright juxtaposition to the ancient rock and simplistic design.

The Church Of The Penitents

The Church of the Penitents was built in the 17th century for the Brotherhood of the White Penitents. The Brotherhood of the White Penitents was the most important sect of the Roman order and cared for the sick, buried the dead and provided medical services for the poor who could not afford private doctors. They even would raise money to give to poor girls for their doweries to ensure they could marry and provide a better life for their children than they were given. Before walking into the church, look up at the facade, where you can see the relief showing two of the penitents kneeling below the carving of a dove.

The church’s interior is very modest, but it might surprise you despite its size. Inside, the entire room is covered in an enormous mural by Yves Brayer. The mural depicts the Shepherds’ Christmas, painted in golden yellows and cobalt blues, synonymous with Provence.

Une Table Au Soleil

Before you head into the castle ruins, check to see if Une Table Au Soleil has any reservations left for dinner. It’s a cozy little restaurant with quality food at good prices, which is often hard to find in highly touristy areas. It’s a hidden gem in Les-Baux, serving traditional French cuisine on a charming outdoor terrace. Since there are only 12 seats, making a reservation before heading into the castle is advisable. Once you know the time of your reservations, you can make sure you leave the castle in good time.

The Castle of Les Baux

Admission

To enter the castle, you need to purchase an admission ticket. Adult tickets cost €8 during the off-season and € 10.50 during the high season when there are performances and entertainment as a part of your ticket. You can also buy a combined ticket with the Carrières de Lumières. I HIGHLY recommend this since going with the combined ticket will save you a few euros, and the Carrières de Lumières is a MUST-DO while in Les-Baux.

The castle’s admission gate is open from 9:00 am to sunset (check the website for the exact schedule). But once you are through the gate, you can stay as long as you want. Come the evening, there are so few tourists here you might think you have the entire place. Ghost hunters get a real kick out of exploring the area in the dark when the ruins are the perfect setting for spooky encounters. If you have the time, pack a picnic and enjoy the view as the sun sets behind the mountains.

History of the Castle

After winding your way through the narrow streets of the lower town, entering the castle is like taking a breath of fresh air. You walk out of the admissions office into the huge hilltop ruins. Before heading out to explore the vestiges of the castle, take a moment to imagine the power and influence this enormous castle would have had in its heyday. The Lord of Les-Baux in the middle ages controlled more than 80 villages around Provence. When Les-Baux became an official part of France, the King wanted to ensure they knew their place and destroyed the once-powerful fortress in 1426.

The King couldn’t bear the thought of anywhere in his country being more powerful than the throne where he sat. Although the Lords of Les-Baux attempted a few times to regain power, their castle was demolished for the last time in 1632. As the townspeople left, and the castle remained untouched, the French people referred to Les-Baux as the ‘ville morte’ or the dead town. The rubble remained untouched for ages until later in the 1900s when interest in these ancient sites became popular, and the tourist trade brought the city back to life. Say what you will about the cheesy souvenir shops and annoying tourists; tourism brought this forgotten town out of the darkness, and without money from tourism, preserving this ancient site wouldn’t be possible.

The Chapel Of Saint Blaise

The small chapel of Saint Blaise is the first building you see inside. This tiny chapel was built in the 12th century by the guild of weavers in honour of their patron Saint, Blaise. Walking inside, you might expect to see relics of the old church, but instead, the room has been remodelled as a small auditorium which plays the film ‘Provence from Above.’ While the film isn’t about the castle’s history, it is a loving homage to the landscapes of Provence and, if you’re here on a hot day, it is a nice escape from the sun.

Trebuchet

Walk out straight along the path towards the Costapera plateau. Along the way, you’ll pass a giant replica of a trebuchet. The trebuchet was a medieval siege machine used to attack fortified walls of opposing fortresses during times of war. Large objects were placed inside the trebuchet and catapulted long distances. This particular trebuchet inside the castle could launch boulders weighing 50-100kg over 200 meters!

Windmill

Continuing on the path, head towards the large windmill along the cliffside. The original mill dates back to 1652. Situated on the cliff’s edge, the windmill was exposed to the most powerful gusts of wind, and the town erected the mill here to utilize this natural force.

Costapera Plateau

Past the windmill, you can walk out to the view across the entire Costapera plateau. The plateau features a special calcareous rock, a particularly soft, easy-to-carve rock. It was used in Roman times to create sculptures, monuments and facades in many old Roman cities across Provence, particularly Arles. During the evening hours, when the tourists have all gone home, you can sit here and listen to the wind whipping across the landscape. It is immensely peaceful to sit here and simply listen to the music of the Provence.

The Charloun Rieu Monument

Walking back from the viewpoint, stop off at the Charloun Rieu monument. Charles Rieu, now known as Charloun dou Paradou, was a French poet in the 1900s who was influential in writing and reviving the Provencal language and culture. Looking out at the scenery here and touring Provence, you can see how different this part of the country is and how important their language would have been to distinguish themselves from the rest of France. It is no surprise why Charloun dou Paradou is so important.

Quiqueran Hospital

Walking back towards the main entrance, let’s take a minute to walk through the large remains of the Quiqueran Hospital. ‘Quiqueran’ meant charity house and was where the poor and the sick of the city were transferred and cared for. The hospital was run with funds from wealthy donors. It was built in the 16th century during the French Wars of Religion when hundreds of thousands of French people fought on the front lines. Families lost their heads of household and were left destitute, and often, the charity houses were the only place they could come to get food and medicine. Although it’s hard to imagine now since there are only a few walls left intact, this building used to have three large arched porticos and a second level where the main part of the hospital was located.

Battering Ram

As we turn in towards the castle’s courtyard we pass by the wooden battering ram. The ram is another reconstruction of the kind of warfare instruments which tAs we turn in towards the castle’s courtyard, we pass by the wooden battering ram. The ram is another reconstruction of the kind of warfare instruments the fortress used during its historical battles.he fortress used during its historic battles. 

The Troglodyte Houses

The “Baume de Roucas,” or rock caves, were a popular form of residence during the 16th century. Now named Troglodyte Houses, since Troglodyte refers to a person living inside a cave, these rudimentary houses have one of the best views in the entire castle. Although they are very simple and perhaps lack the flash and flourishes of the castle, I wonder if the peasants who once lived here appreciated the natural beauty their home backed out upon.

The Sarrasine Tower

Standing in the outer courtyard entrance, look up at the top of the Sarrasine tower, which overlooks the entire area. You can access a staircase from the other end of the courtyard that leads right out to this lookout point. The tower is known as the “guardian of the Château” since it is the highest point in the castle, where guards would be able to see any incoming invaders.

The Second Courtyard

Inside the second courtyard is where you’ll find the old residences of the craftsmen and farmers who lived inside the castle walls. During the high tourist season, actors in period costumes recreate life in the castle in the middle ages.

Dovecote Wall

During the middle ages, pigeons were one of the most popular forms of communication; therefore, the birds were treated like royalty. Their homes were called dovecotes, little niches carved into the rockface. The birds would lay their nests here, and the castle guards collected their eggs and young babies using huge ladders. You can still see the holes where the pigeons stayed even today, carved into the remains of the wall.

The First Courtyard

The first courtyard is further into the castle grounds, where the Lords and Ladies of the castle would have been found. You can still enter various floorplans of old aristocratic residences along the first courtyard, rooms carved out of solid rock. Walking inside, they are nothing more than cold, empty rooms but try to imagine them covered in rich velvet tapestries, filled with elaborately decorated furniture and a furry of servants peddling the finest food the province had to offer.

The Keep

At the top of the castle are the remains of the military keep. To prevent attackers from climbing up the side of the mountain and simply entering the castle, the castle’s walls on the vulnerable side of the mountain were built up another 20 meters and at the top, various guard towers were erected to further add another level of protection.

Walking along the top of the guard tower provides the best view of the entire castle and the surrounding countryside. When we visited, there were only a handful of other people around, and none ventured up as far as we did, so we had the entire place to ourselves! Imagine the courtyard below filled with courtiers and servants, jousts and jesters. Guards walking back and forth, head to toe, in the finest armour. It must have been such a sight to see.

Crossbow Practice

At the foot of the castle was a dry moat which has now been replaced with a reconstruction of where the archers would do their target practice. You can try your hand at shooting crossbows and watch professional archers take aim at various targets.

Graveyard

Before leaving, head out to the cliffside graveyard, where the tombstones of the old villagers of Les Baux are still being buried today. It is heartwarming to see families buried together here, generation upon generation.

While some might think graveyards are a bit macabre, these gravestones are a beautiful look into the past and how those generations honoured their dead.

Carrières de Lumières

Before heading out of Les Baux, be SURE to check out the Carrières de Lumières, just down the hill from the lower town. The Carrières de Lumières is a multimedia light show projected onto an ancient quarry’s walls.

Les-Baux is a place you cannot skip on your travels through Provence, and I hope you get the chance to experience everything this region has to offer for yourself on your next creative adventure.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Tour of Les Baux-de-Provence first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.