Table Of Contents

1. #1 Start with a Walk Around La Condesa
2. #2 Museo de Arte Popular
3. #3 Xochimilco
4. #4 Bosque de Chapultepec
5. #5 Lucha Libre
6. #6 Mercado Artesanías Ciudadela
7. #7 Casa Azul Frida Kahlo
8. #8 San Angel Arts Market
9. #9 Street Food
10. #10 Sundays on Paseo de Reforma

#1 Start with a Walk Around La Condesa

The first thing I recommend to any first-time traveller to Mexico City is to take a walk. This helps not only acclimatize you to the altitude, but also your neighbourhood. And my #1 recommendation for the best streets to comfortably and safely wander is in La Condesa. It can be a casual stroll or an in-depth guided tour. Start the day off right by meeting the friendly locals, sampling the food, and soaking up the exemplary historic architecture. And incredible green spaces. La Condesa has become somewhat of a tourist hot spot over the years. But as such, it’s really really accessible to foreigners. While still maintaining that amazing Mexico City vibe that absolutely permeates the entire city.

#2 Museo de Arte Popular

While many guides will put the Templo Mayor and Anthrolopgoy museum in their top museum spots, for me, it has got to be the Museo de Arte Popular. The Museo de Arte Popular (Museum of Popular Art) is a cultural treasure of great importance to the Mexican people. It showcases Mexico’s vibrant folk art traditions and celebrates its people’s creativity and ingenuity.

The museum holds an extensive collection of handmade crafts and folk art. This includes textiles, pottery, glassware, wood carvings, and more, providing a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage of Mexico. It is a place to admire the beauty and skill of these works and serves as a center for preserving and promoting traditional Mexican arts and crafts. It is a place where visitor can come together to appreciate the unique cultural richness of Mexico. And learn about its history and traditions. 

While I also recommend the Templo Mayor and the Anthropology Museum, the vibrancy of this museum always excites me. These are objects made by everyday people that have lasted generations. And hold within them such deep symbolic value. Even in arts and crafts, you’ll learn all about the Aztec myths and gods the ancient Mexican people worshipped. And see how this history still finds its way into symbolism even today.

#3 Xochimilco

Xochimilco is a neighbourhood in Mexico City home to a system of canals and floating gardens known as the Xochimilco canals. This ancient waterway was once used for agriculture and transportation. But today serves as a popular tourist attraction and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Locals and tourists alike gather near the embarcaderos and rent these gorgeous, brightly coloured Trajineras, or small boats. Thes boats are ferried up and down the river. The atmosphere on the canals, even on a quiet afternoon, is infectious. Laughter and the sound of mariachi bands float across the water.

The canals offer a unique perspective into the way of life in Mexico in the past. These innovative chinampas were created by the Aztecs to grow crops in the middle of a lake. While on your journey, you can buy food and drinks from local street food vendors cooking up a storm in their own floating kitchens. There is also live music and craft merchants all along the river. Although it’s about a 45 minutes journey to get here, it is well worth the effort.

#4 Bosque de Chapultepec

There is no better place to spend a lively weekend with the locals than at the Bosque de Chapultepec or Chapultepec Park. The Bosque de Chapultepec (Chapultepec Forest) is one of the largest city parks in the world. Often referred to as the “lungs of Mexico City.” The park spans over 1,700 acres and is home to a diverse array of flora and fauna.

The Bosque de Chapultepec also has a rich cultural history, as it was once a royal retreat for Aztec emperors. And later served as the official residence of Mexican presidents. The Bosque de Chapultepec symbolizes the city’s past and present. And to me, this place provides a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of Mexico City. It is a place where people can connect with nature, learn about Mexican culture and history, and enjoy various recreational activities.

It’s also home to several museums, including the National Museum of Anthropology, the Museum of Modern Art, and the National History Museum. But I love just coming here and exploring. Take a swan boat out on the lake, eat some street snacks, and watch the locals enjoy their city.

#5 Lucha Libre

Watching Lucha Libre, Mexico’s colourful and dynamic form of professional wrestling is a cultural experience that is not to be missed in Mexico City. Lucha Libre is a deeply ingrained part of Mexican popular culture. And has been a part of the country’s entertainment scene for over 80 years. The high-flying, acrobatic moves, elaborate costumes, and larger-than-life personalities of the luchadors (wrestlers) make for a unique and exciting spectacle. One that you have to see for yourself.

Attending a Lucha Libre match in Mexico City is an opportunity to immerse oneself in Mexican culture’s vibrant and energetic spirit. We were hesitant at first about going. Not knowing if we would understand what was happening, but we were FANS immediately after the show’s start! Joining in on the chants and screaming “boos” at the villains of the match.

I remember after our first match feeling, my face was sore from smiling and singing and screaming. It was a blast; we’ve seen a match every time we’ve been back in the city. It’s part of our tradition, and it should be one of yours too. You can join a tour group if you feel more comfortable going as a group or buy the tickets from the Arena Mexoc website.

#6 Mercado Artesanías Ciudadela

There is nowhere I’m perhaps more excited to go to every time I’m in Mexico City than the Mercado Artesanías Ciudadad. This sprawling arts market is filled with hundreds of stalls selling an array of handmade goods, including textiles, pottery, jewelry, glassware, and more. Each stall reflects Mexico’s diverse cultural heritage, with artisans coming from around the country to sell their wares.

Shopping at the market is not only an opportunity to purchase unique and beautiful handmade goods but also a way to support the local artisans and their families. The prices here are extremely fair, so there is no need to haggle. But often, if you buy more than a few things, the owner will give you a discount. I find just wandering the aisle and filling my eyes with all the incredible creations a rewarding and fulfilling experience.

#7 Casa Azul Frida Kahlo

Casa Azul Frida Kahlo, also known as the Blue House, was the birthplace and lifelong home of the renowned Mexican artist Frida Kahlo. The house sits in one of my favourite Mexico City neighbourhoods, Coyoacan. Today the house has been restored to reflect what it would have looked like when Frida lived in it with her husband, Diego Rivera.

The bright blue house vividly represents Frida’s artistic vision. It is filled with Frida’s personal belongings, including her paintings, collectables and photographs. But most precious are the iconic traditional Mexican dresses that created Frida’s look. and made her a fashion icon.

Visiting Casa Azul is a journey into Frida’s world, providing a glimpse into her art, politics, and personal life. The museum is a cultural treasure that offers a window into Mexico’s past and the history of one of its most famous artists.

#8 San Angel Arts Market

The San Angel Art Market in Mexico City is the best time to make your way out to the San Angel hillside neighbourhood. While San Angel is still one of the most vibrant yet peaceful districts throughout the week in Mexico City, on Saturdays, the art markets set the squares alight. Artisans from all over the city arrive to set up their goods at dawn. Showcasing all different art forms, from paintings to sculptures and handmade items. Best of all, the art market is for more than just tourists. But also for the locals, the pieces feel really reflective of trendy Mexican styles. Furthermore, the market provides a platform for up-and-coming artists to showcase their work and gain exposure.

A market is also a place for the community to gather and engage with the local arts scene. There is often live music performances and demonstrations by artists taking place regularly. Inside the El Bazar Sábado building on the north side of the Plaza San Jacinto you’ll find a lively food court. Here, locals and tourists all come together to eat the day away. A relaxing spot to take a break from exploring the beautiful artworks outside.

#9 Street Food

Mexico City is (in my humble opinion) the best foodie location in the world. From Michelin Star fine dining to unpretentious family-run fondas serving home-style, traditional Mexican cuisine, there is truly something for everyone. But street food is where Mexico City really shines. And street food is an integral part of the city’s culture, reflecting the country’s rich culinary heritage and diverse population. Plus, at the low price points, it’s an accessible option for almost every budget.

There is something so exciting about spotting your favourite tamales vendor coming down the road on his bike, announcing his breakfast items for sale on his portable speaker. Street food in Mexico City is incredibly diverse. From traditional Mexican dishes like tacos al pastor, elote, tortas and huaraches, there is truly something for every diet. Even vegans can find special vegan food stalls around the city. And if you’re too timid to go for a full-on meal, there are always the snack and dessert vendors to dip your toe in the waters for freshly made Mexican Street food! 

#10 Sundays on Paseo de Reforma

The Paseo de la Reforma in Mexico City is more than just a roadway; it is a street filled with history and symbolism. The long, wide avenue was originally built in the 19th century to connect the city center to Chapultepec Park. The Paseo de la Reforma has since evolved into a cultural hub with iconic monuments and fantastical public spaces. But on most days, you miss many of these iconic spots since the road is packed with cars rushing about to get from one end of the city to another. But not on Sundays…

Sundays on the Paseo de Reforma feature car-free streets. The busy thoroughfare is closed to traffic, and the roadway is open only to bikes, scooters, runners and pedestrians. The once loud street, thick with car exhaust, is now filled with children playing and people chatting as they cruise along the path on their bikes. The sidewalks are replete with street food vendors and craftspeople selling their wares. It feels like a giant street party. But luckily, it happens every week, so you can almost always take part in your visit. There are many places to rent a bike or a scooter to make traversing the long roadway a breeze. And make sure to make frequent stopes along the way to take in the monuments and snacks you’ll spot along the way.

There are many more amazing things to see and do in Mexico City, but this is a great list to get you started. I feel like with this list, so many parts of what makes Mexico City such an incredible place to visit are truly highlighted. Perhaps these sights will pique your interest and start you off on the right food while planning your first trip to Mexico City.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post What are the Best Must-see Attractions in Mexico City? first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

All along the way, there are so many opportunities for incredible Instagram shots since Mexico City is truly one of the most colourful cities in the entire world. Because let’s face it, we all know those adorable IG snaps are an all-important part of the trip. Steal this itinerary to share with your girlfriends to convince them why Mexico City needs to be at the top of your list of places to go for the Ultimate Bachelorette Trip!

Mexico City Bachelorette Itinerary

1. Why Go to Mexico City?
2. Where to Stay
   • Airbnb in La Condesa | SAVE
   • Casa Decu | STANDARD
   • Sofitel Mexico City Reforma | SPLURGE
3. Four-Day Bachelorette Party in Mexico City Map
4. Day 1 | Arrive and Settle In
   • Hunt for Flowers
5. Day 2 – A Day out for Foodies
   • Filigrana Brunch
   • Mercado Medellín
   • Explore more about Roma 
   • Huerto Roma Verde
   • Take a Cooking Class 
   • DIY Cocktail Tour
6. Sunday – A Day on the Water
   • Panadería Rosetta
   • Xochimilco
   • Restaurante Rosetta Dinner
   • Lucha Libra
7. Day 4 – A Day for the Arts in San Angel & Coyoacán
   • Restaurante El Cardenal
   • Carmen Church of San Ángel
   • Saturday Art Market
   • Art Galleries and Stores
   • Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo
   • Coyoacan Market
   • Casa Azul
   • Bazar Artesanal Mexicano
   • Corazón de Maguey

Why Go to Mexico City?

Mexico City has it all. Cheap food, amazing cocktail bars, fun activities, gorgeous museums, awe-inspiring street art, retro architecture and phenomenal culture. This itinerary is for a Mexico City Bachelorette party who are maybe a little more eccentric. And don’t want a cookie-cutter weekend. Throw out ideas of strip clubs and manicures. Replace them with enriching museums, astonishing street food and giddying streets to explore with your friends. There are so many different activities to suit all kinds of brides. But you can intertwine all of them in this itinerary to give all the guests a little bit of everything. Whether they like to party or like a more laid-back weekend, I think Mexico City suits the needs of everyone.

Where to Stay

Airbnb in La Condesa | SAVE

Another wonderful thing about a Mexico City Bachelorette is that there are many different types of accommodations. Options to suit all different price points. A great choice for the savers is to rent an Airbnb in La Condesa. La Condesa is my favourite neighbourhood in the entire city. Here you can rent out entire houses and apartments to host your whole crew. This way, you can all stay together. It’s so fun to use the communal kitchen to make some of your meals. Or just relax in the outdoor spaces at night or in the morning. Soaking up all that amazing Mexico City weather! 

I found this incredible house in La Condesa with seven bedrooms and eleven beds. And it’s just under $300 USD a night. If you came with eight girlfriends, that is less than $40/night per person! Plus, you get all the amenities of having a house! There are many different options with Airbnb, from modern chic to more traditional, historic homes. You can really find the perfect fit to suit your bride-to-be.

USD $300/night (plus cleaning fees)

Casa Decu | STANDARD

If your guests would prefer a hotel, then you should check out the Casa Decu hotel, also in La Condesa. Casa Decu is located inside an old Art Deco building and has quickly become my new favourite hotel in the city. The benefit of hotels are they offer a little bit more privacy and the comfort of not having to clean up for yourself every day. The design of this place is so retro, the amenities are top-notch, and the rooftop breakfast patio is fantastic. They have a huge table under some shade upstairs, perfect to host your group. So you can all eat breakfast together each morning before hitting the streets.

All the rooms, even the most inexpensive, each come with their own mini kitchenette. This way you can keep food your buy along the way in the fridge. But you’ll also have the opportunity to cook a small meal, or just an aperitif before dinner, in the room. Be sure to message the hotel directly to see if they can provide you with additional group promotional rates!

USD $105/night

Sofitel Mexico City Reforma | SPLURGE

If you want to go all out, splurge on a few nights at the Sofitel Mexico City. Located on the famous Paseo de la Reforma, the main avenue in Mexico City. This hotel boasts some of the most fabulous views of the city from the comfort of your hotel room. The hotel is the first luxury French-branded hotel in the city, so you know you’re staying somewhere really special. The chic interiors are fabulous and suit the modern bachelorette aesthetic. Plus, their indoor pool on the 28th floor has one of the most spectacular views of the city. Which is even more incredible at sunset! Bring your girlfriends up here at dusk, and they’ll be so impressed!

USD $270/night

Four-Day Bachelorette Party in Mexico City Map

Day 1 | Arrive and Settle In

The best way to get settled and adjust to the new altitude (Mexico City is, after all, 7,300 feet above sea level) with your girlfriends is a self-guided taco tour. I’ve created this unique taco tour all around La Condesa! This tour lets you explore the neighbourhood while stopping in to try the barrio’s best tacos. Along the way, you can stop and check out whatever your eyes are drawn to. Exploring those little curious corners of the neighbourhood is a great way to work off those tacos, so you’re ready for more!

Hunt for Flowers

As you’re all exploring the neighbourhood for tacos, be sure to go hunting for flowers as well. If you’re travelling as a bridal party, seeking out fresh flowers from the flower carts is the perfect activity! Great practice for the wedding day bouquets. Fresh flowers in Mexico City are so inexpensive and jazz up your Airbnb or Hotel room. In La Condesa, you can simply walk up and down Avenue Amsterdam to find many different vendors. The one across from the Walmart called Flower Jessica (marked on the map above and at the end of the post) is always reliably filled with great flowers! 

Self Made Bouquets

It’s so much fun to grab as many different flowers as your heart delights. Then head back to your hotel’s rooftop patio or communal space to make your own little flower arrangements. It’s a fantastic yet also slightly relaxing activity. Great to do while you adjust to the new time zone and altitude.

“But we don’t have any vases!” you might think. Not to worry! While some stands actually do sell them for cheap, there is another option that is almost free. Just run over to your local Oxxo or 7-Eleven convenience store and buy a few drinks inside glass bottles. Fill your basket up with Topo Chico, Mexican Coke or interesting glass bottles of beer. Get back home and enjoy the refreshing beverages while you make your bouqtes. When you’re done, just pop the flowers into the now empty glass bottles with some fresh water. Easy peasy!

Take it Easy, grab a Churro

While you might be DYING to get out there and grab cocktails, trust me on this one, the altitude can make or break you on your first day! It’s best to take it easy, just on the first day. Especially regarding drinking anything alcoholic. If you’re looking for an evening treat, I advise heading to Churrería El Moro. This churro shop is one of the most popular places in the city. And luckily, they have a few locations so you’re never too far away from one. Grab yourself and your girlfriends a huge tray of churros with their selection of dipping sauces. The perfect sharable delight. In addition to amazing trays of churros, they also sell delicious Mexican hot chocolate. A historical Aztec staple you need to try along the way! Try to take in an early night cause tomorrow we hit the streets!

Day 2 – A Day out for Foodies

Today is all about FOOD! We are going to start the day by going out for Brunch. Brunch in Mexico City is truly world-class! And there are so many different places to go. But if you want to check out my favourites, you can’t go wrong with any of these locations. So if the only I’ve recommended below is booked up there are lots of other options.

Filigrana Brunch

Filigrana is my new favourite brunch spot, so I had to update this list to feature it. Walking inside, you are immediately in awe of the environment. The glass walls allow the beautiful morning sun to filter in, creating rainbows of light on the floor. You are immediately greeted by friendly servers. Before you’ve ever ordered, you are brought out their pastry tray with some of the most inventive, colourful and delicious pastries! I had to try at least once, even though I knew more food was coming. Filigrana specializes in Mexican fusion with dishes that combine various cultures. The tortillas served alongside your meal are made literally on sight. You can watch the tortillas makers at work for some in-house entertainment.

Be sure to sample the licuado de mamey, a smoothie made with the Mexican mamey fruit! Heavenly creamy! For your meal, I highly recommend the tostadas, chilaquiles, and, of course, some delicious freshly made guacamole. Served with those aforementioned fresh tortillas. What is so convenient about Filigrana is that you can make easy reservations in advance on Opentable. Especially if you’re visiting on the weekend with a larger group, reservations are absolutely mandatory! But they’re not too hard to find if you book well enough in advance.

Mercado Medellín

After a filling brunch, it’s time to head over to the Mercado Medellín. This market is a vibrant place to explore in the heart of the trendy Roma Norte neighbourhood. Even the walk you’ll take to get here will awaken all your senses! And the architecture in this colonial barrio is absolutely fantastic.

The market itself is a marvellous place to explore all the dazzling produce native to Mexico. In addition, the market is filled with stores selling salsas, fresh mole, nuts, rainbow-coloured candies, colourful pinatas and more! You can just wander around to your heart’s content. Or follow my self-guided tour to better understand the best things to check out!

Explore more about Roma 

Before our big evening activity, make a point to explore more of the Roma Norte neighbourhood. Roma Norte is known for having the best bar scene, top-class restaurants, incredible street food, and picturesque cafes on every street corner. But the area is also home to some of the best-preserved colonial-era architecture. Every street is plush with greenery and ivy falling off the Juliet balconies above. Wide avenues are home to charming works of art, and the idyllic parks are where locals come to relax.

Although you might not have time to take the entirety of my Roma Walking Tour, I would recommend at least walking up and down some of the side streets around Tepeji street. It’s here where you’ll find the filming location where they shot the Academy Award-nominated movie Roma. These streets are so quiet yet picturesque, so it’s the perfect place to safely wander with your girlfriends.

Huerto Roma Verde

On the way to our next activity, head over to the large intersection at Avenue Yucatan. Across the street, on the east side, you can spot a bright blue column, this giant structure is actually made of old water jugs! This icon marks the monumental entrance to the Huerto Roma Verde. Huerto Roma Verde is a cultural centre made from recovered property once destroyed by the 1985 earthquake. The land was abandoned for 27 years and used as a dumping ground. But Paco Ayala, who initiated the project, saw the 8,000 square feet as an opportunity. He saw the space as a place for regrowth and environmental education through art.

About Huerto Roma Verde

The self-managed community found inside these walls was created by grassroots environmental activists. It began as a small shared vegetable garden. Where residents who lived in small apartments without outdoor space could come and grow their own fresh food. From there, it grew to have a storage tower to collect rainwater, a recycling centre for solid waste and even several farm animals! They aim to focus on sustainability and promote the development of communities integrated into their local environments.

Much of the space is designed to be an urban garden with mind-bending art sculptures created within the living environment. While you can wander the space and appreciate the artworks, you can also stop at the various pop-up businesses. They sell everything from organic cosmetics to vegan desserts and fresh coffee. It’s a fantastic place to do some local shopping!

Take a Cooking Class 

Cooking classes are such wonderful group activities as everyone gets to participate, have some fun and learn more about the culture of the place their visiting. Plus you also get to eat everything you cook! Over at Eat Mexico, they have a cooking class that celebrates Mexico’s food culture and teaches their guests how to master these hundred-year-old recipes. From basic green salsa to corn masa, chicken tinga and papas con chorizo. You’ll learn how to cook nopales, make some chilaquiles and learn more about all the different varieties of Mexican chillies that flavour almost every dish you eat in Mexico.

(Note these classes only run Tues-Friday so plan accordingly.)

Price: $83 USD/ per person

DIY Cocktail Tour

For those who don’t want the night to end, you can safely bar hop along with the Avenida Álvaro Obregón in Roma Norte. Start at Gin Gin Álvaro Obregón, my favourite bar; thanks for their out-of-this-world, skeletal decor! Their cocktail menu is IMMENSE and highlights (as is the name of the bar infers) gin! As the night wears on, a DJ will sometimes play live music. While this can get very loud, if that’s your vibe, you’ll enjoy yourself.

The next place I would head to with my girlfriends is Licorería Limantour, just a few doors down. This place is a legendary cocktail bar in Mexico City which some of the most clever drinks & snacks in a chic environment, complete with a gorgeous terrace. Sitting here on a hot night, enjoying a cool breeze, is a fantastic way to while away an evening.

Hanky Panky

If you still are craving some more entertainment, walk or uber up to the northern part of Roma Norte to Hanky Panky Speakeasy. Be sure you book a reservation at this place in advance, as it’s the only way to get in if you’re not a member. Speakeasies have had a resurgence all over the world in the past few years, and this one is perhaps the most fun to discover. The place looks like nothing more than a small taco shop when you arrive. But on the right is a large fridge that juts suspiciously far out from the wall…

Once you provide your reservation details to the man behind the counter, he will open up the beer fridge and usher you inside. He closes the door behind you, and you’ll think the worst for a moment as you are plunged into darkness. But then, another door opens in front of you, and you enter into the chic, deliciously vibey atmosphere of the hidden bar inside. Drinks cost around $160-$220 pesos, which is more than reasonable considering the incredible drama of the place! It’s a delightfully fun experience for those who want to impress and awe their friends. Keep the details of this stop a secret, and the bride will be impressed with your discovery!

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Sunday – A Day on the Water

Panadería Rosetta

After what was no doubt a late late night, eating is the only real way to cure a hangover! And set you right for the day ahead. One of my other favourite laid-back brunch restaurants in Mexico City is Panderia Rossetta. This incredible bakery in Roma Norte is a hot spot every morning, no matter the time of day. And there is good reason for this, aside from its spectacular appearance. The pastries baked fresh daily are some of the most inventive, delicious and mouthwateringly beautiful creations. Their guava pastry is one of their most popular options.

Although there is seating outside, you might need to wait a while, depending on how busy it is. Luckily, if you’re staying in the area, you can get a whole selection of parties and coffees to bring back for a laid-back taste test at home. 

Alternatively, I recommend bringing your haul to the nearby Plaza Río de Janeiro. This incredibly beautiful park is encircled by some of the city’s most gorgeous art deco and colonial architecture. It is a wonderful place to enjoy a morning coffee and pastry in the sun. If you’re lucky, you might also have some street food vendors pass you by to top off your breakfast with some fresh tamales or fresh fruit cups!

Xochimilco

After loading up on carbs and recovering from the night before, it’s time to head out to one of the most interesting, vibrant and culturally significant places just outside Mexico City; Xochimilco. Xochimilco is known as the Venice of Mexico. Xochimilco consists of over 170 kilometers of canals spread across the southern part of Mexico City. The word “Xochimilco” means “Floating Gardens,” as this was where the ancient Aztecs created a network of artificial agricultural plots. These garden plots are called chinampas, land rich in minerals, where flowers and a variety of fruits and veggies grow in abundance. Xochimilco is now considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site as it preserves this Aztec technology.

Where is Xochimilco

Xochimilco is about 45 minutes south of the city. You can easily book an Uber to drive you to and from the Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas Xochimilco. This is the ONLY place you should arrive to get onto your Trajineras. There are TONS of bike people who might stop you on the way into town saying this place is closed, but it’s not. It’s a common scam to get people to access a different dock with much higher prices. Just tell your driver to ignore them, and push onto your destination.

Trajineras

One of the most iconic aspects of a trip on the canals today are riding inside the neon painted Trajineras. These brightly coloured boats float up and down the canals and today can be rented out by individuals or groups to enjoy the beauty of the canals. They have flat bottoms and float throughout the canals with nothing more than a long wooden ore controlled by your rower, just like a gondolier. In the center of the boat is a large table, and there are about a dozen chairs on either side, so you can have an entire group ride on the same boat! The covered roof is perfect for keeping the sun off during hot days, but if you want to sit out in the sunlight, the front of the boat has ample room.

The boats are vibrantly painted to resemble the flowers that grew on either side of the canals hundreds of years ago. Each boat is given a different name; you might not know that if you know who to call, you can have your name painted on a boat just for you when you arrive. This is perfect for your bride as you can even get it named after her!

How to Rent a Boat

Getting a Trajinera inexpensively isn’t something you should expect when coming to Xochimilco. This isn’t one of those super budget-friendly excursions. The maximum rate set by the city is 500 pesos per hour, per boat (not per person as some tricky boatmen might quote you). You can try and haggle your way down, but unless you have a good grasp of Spanish haggling, you’ll find it difficult to get the rides any cheaper than 400-450 pesos per hour.

2-hours is the minimum I would go for since it takes a while for them to get the boats out of the dock, and an hour would barely get you out into the canals far enough to see the real Xochimilco. I would honestly say I wish we’d gone out for longer! Plus, the longer you go, the better your chance of striking a deal! Remember to tip your boatman at the end of the trip, most of the money you pay goes to his boss, and the driver sees little of that price, so a nice tip will go a long way for them.

Group Tours to Xochimilco

You can easily book a group tour if you’d rather not deal with all these details yourself. This takes all the organization out of your hands and lets you enjoy yourself without needing to be at the wheel. My favourite site to book these tours lately has been Airbnb experiences. I find their prices the most competitive and don’t include too many extras you don’t need. These tours are great as the guides help explain sights along the way and usually include a bit of food! 

You are allowed to bring whatever food and drinks you want with you to the Trajineras. I always recommend stopping by your local convenience stores to load up on some neat snacks and a few drinks. Depending on what day of the week you visit will change what’s open (the weekdays tend to have fewer stalls and sellers open than the weekends). But there’s always something to buy on land and on the water. That’s right, there’s food available throughout the canals as you travel. Vendors with roasted corn, coconut water, tacos, cold beer and freshly made micheladas float up and down the canals. The prices are more than you’d pay in the market, but you pay for the privilege of having them coming right to your boat!

Restaurante Rosetta Dinner

After coming home, it’s probably time for everyone to enjoy a bit of a nap after a hot day out on the water. If you feel like you’d like a gorgeous dinner tonight, I would recommend reservations at Restaurante Rosetta. This stunning eatery is located inside an old villa and is literally dripping, inside and out, with greenery. The menu is unique and creative and is a fusion of traditional Mexican dishes with modern, international ingredients. It’s such a gorgeous interior you’ll be absolutely transported both by the food and the decor.

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Lucha Libra

If your crew is the adventurous type, just down the street is the Arena México, where you can catch a Lucha Libre show almost every day of the week! Lucha Libre is Mexican Wrestling and even if you aren’t even the slightest bit of a wrestling or sports fan, going to these shows is soooo much fun. We’ve gone both with a tour group and on our own, and it’s a blast either way. Going on your own is much cheaper, as tickets are only about $25 USD but going with the group is a wonderful experience for first-timers. They teach you all about the sport’s history and why it has become such an important part of the Mexican identity.

Everywhere you go in Mexico City, you’ll see Lucha masks for sale and everything from t-shirts to souvenir magnets with famous wrestlers on them. So it’s good to find out what this is all about. It’s a fun group activity as it gets everyone talking. Even if you don’t speak a lick of Spanish, it’s so much fun to try to interpret the storylines and the moves and just sit back and be in awe of the absolute madness and amazing physical prowess this real athlete put on display!

Day 4 – A Day for the Arts in San Angel & Coyoacán

Our last day in Mexico City is about immersing ourselves in the city’s most artistic areas of the city; San Angel and Coyoacan. This is where Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera spent more of their lives and careers. The entire neighbourhood is steeped in vibrant creativity. We’ll start the day in San Angel, exploring the brilliant colonial architecture and amazing art scene, and then uber over to nearby Coyoacan, where we can walk in the footsteps of Frida Kahlo. San Angel is famous for its Saturday Art Market. But if you choose to arrive here on any other day, you’ll still find the neighbourhood to be an incredible place to find wonderful works of art!

Restaurante El Cardenal

Head to the best breakfast spot in San Angel, Restaurante El Cardenal, to start your morning. Restaurante El Cardenal is an institution in Mexico City that was founded in 1969! At El Cardenal, you can come and feel like you’re dining at your mother’s table. Their location in San Ángel is located inside an old colonial mansion and the gorgeous architecture make eating here a luxurious experience.

To start the perfect breakfast, begin with hot chocolate, not coffee! Their unique hot chocolate is made with famous Doña Oliva chocolate and is like drinking a cup of history. Hot chocolate originated in Mexico and was an essential part of the Aztec culture from 1400 AD. My favourite part about the experience of eating here was the pastry tray. When you come inside, a waiter brings you over an enormous tray of sweet pastries. And you can choose, with your own eyes, which pastry you want to start the meal right with. I went with the concha as I feel like it’s the perfect pairing with a hot chocolate. The rest of the menu is filled with traditional Mexican brunch options and honestly you can’t go wrong with any of them!

Carmen Church of San Ángel

As we make our way west towards the Plaza San Jacinto, quickly stop inside the old Carmelite church, just across from the restaurant. The church was built here in 1615 and it features some amazing Herrerian architecture. The courtyard makes for a wonderful photo op as you are surrounded by incredible Puebla tiles, fantastical domed rooms and beautiful greenery. Even if your group isn’t super religious, I love stopping in here just to admire the marvellous architecture and baorque art.

Walking into the church, the restrained architecture surrounding you highlights the incredible golden altar. Light frames the altar from either side, creating the most ethereal glow. While the rest of the building might be simpler in design, the altarpiece is pure baroque. Drama, glamour and gilding are everything that the baroque era brought, and we can see it here in leaps and spurts! Since today is all about art, this is a great spot to make a quick stop.

Saturday Art Market

If you come to San Angel on the weekend, you’ll be graced with the amazing Saturday Art Market. It is by far the most popular event in the area. The art on sale is both meant for the locals to enjoy as well as the tourists. Found on easels and leaning against the walls are works of art highlighting the beauty of the Mexican landscape and their vibrant culture. There were so many amazing artists of all different styles and mediums. 

In addition to paintings, this Plaza is also home to craftspeople. Here you can find artisan pottery, textiles and even clothing. While some of it is a bit touristy, there are also unique designers and artists. Prices tend to be a little more expensive here in San Angel, but the quality matches the cost. This is a great market to find some amazing souvenirs to bring home!

Art Galleries and Stores

If you opt to visit San Angel on any other day than Saturday, you can still find many handicraft shops open around the square throughout the week. They keep the spirit of the art market alive throughout the week. Shops like the Bazar San Ángel, María Bonita and Local México sell gorgeous handmade decor and art pieces for your home. The spirit of the art market lives on long past the weekend, so don’t feel like you’ll have missed it all if you can only visit during the week. Maria Bonita sells amazing pieces of art made by Mexican artists at very affordable prices. Their store is also a joy to walk through and feels absolutely transporting.

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo

Wander through the back alleys of San Angel, north towards the incredible Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. This amazing feat of architecture was where Diego Rivera worked and lived alongside his wife, Frida Kahlo. The two homes are connected via the large walkway on the top floor. The entire design of the homes is symbolic of their love. So it really makes for a great stop for a future bride!

The museum leads you through both houses to see their studios, living spaces and a gorgeous rooftop view across the neighbourhood of San Angel. You can read our full guide here to get a complete guided tour of the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The house doesn’t take much time to explore, but the incredible architecture is worth seeing. Plus, if you’re a fan of Frida and Diego, this peeks into their private lives is unrivalled.

Coyoacan Market

By now, you’re no doubt starting to get hungry, so it’s time to hop into an Uber and head over to Coyacano. Start your introduction to Coyoacan outside the famous Mercado de Coyoacán! This market has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s more than one building pieced together. The newest part of the structure was built in the 1950s. But the original, much smaller marketplace was where Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul.

El Jardín del Pulpo

Before entering the market’s interior, stop at the sidewalk entrance on the corner of Malintzin and Ignacio Allende where you’ll find El Jardín del Pulpo. El Jardín del Pulpo translates into ‘The Octopus’s Garden, ‘where you can indulge in Coyoacán’s best street seafood. While it might seem a little more expensive than regular street food, you’ll be eating such luxuries as lobster and langostino. You MUST give their GIANT shrimp cocktails a try!

Tostadas Coyoacan 

But the main reason for visiting this market is to try Tostadas Coyoacan! The lines can get pretty long at lunchtime, but it moves quickly and gives you time to scope out what you want to try. The shrimp ceviche tostadas with thick slices of avocado to cut the acidity are absolute perfection! If eating raw seafood is a little too adventurous for you, try their famous shredded chicken; simple, moist and flavourful! There are six different eating areas with bar-style seating, so you can almost always find somewhere to saddle up, even at the busiest time of day.

Barbacoa is another traditional dish to try in the Coyacán market. If you’re visiting on Saturdays and Sundays, find your war to El Borrego de Oro or ‘The Golden Sheep’ at the back of the market. The shreds of tender meat atop freshly made tortillas are absolute heaven.

Casa Azul

What most people come to Coyocan for is the Casa Azul, also known as the Frida Kahlo Museum. The Casa Azul was where Mexican artist Frida Kahlo grew up, became an artist, married, and even died. She lived there with her husband, Diego Rivera, and together the two of them transformed a simple home into an artist’s retreat. After her death, the artworks of Frida Kahlo became an international sensation, gaining notoriety more and more as time went on. A hidden genius being discovered after her death, like it so often goes. But Frida herself has become an icon and cultural phenomenon. It’s very important to book these tickets in advance, especially for a large group.

The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art and being able to tour their home exactly as it was when they lived and worked inside it. Throughout the house, you’ll see their collections of pre-Hispanic artifacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more. You feel deeply connected with these artists by literally walking in their footsteps. The best part for a group of gals is Frida’s personal wardrobe that features pieces from the fashion icon. This is an unmissable experience for anyone interested in art or Frida herself. 

Bazar Artesanal Mexicano

If you’re travelling with a group of ladies, there is no doubt some shopping needs to be done! Just outside of the main square in Coyoacan is the Bazar Artesanal Mexicano. Inside the arched red gates, you step into a small courtyard always adorned with a myriad of artisanal decor. Throughout the two levels of tiny stalls crammed into different corners, you’ll find everything from traditional Mexican clothing complete with gorgeous embroideries, artisanal jewellery, various handicrafts, and pretty much everything you could want for souvenirs. 

The benefit of this artisan market is that it is on the small side but still has everything you could want. This means it’s a little less overwhelming, and you can more easily find what you’re looking for without. Plus, the prices here are slightly lower than in the more touristy Artisan Market outside the Historical Centre in the central city.

Corazón de Maguey

To end the day, make reservations at the Corazón de Maguey. This restaurant in the heart of Coyoacan is an absolute feast for the eyes and the stomach. Walking into the lively cantina, you’re overwhelmed by the bright red walls trimmed in myriad traditional Mexican kitchen implements used for decoration. Huge glass jugs used to store mezcal are stacked around the room, used almost as room dividers. 

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The restaurant specializes in traditional Mexican food served in HUGE portions. My recommendation is to order a whole bunch of different dishes and just share them between the entire table. It’s a great place to try out any food you didn’t get a chance to sample yet. Everything from red mole to beef tongue, stuffed chile ancho peppers, Oaxacan cheese and handmade tortillas are just some of the amazing dishes on the menu. Honestly, it’s one of the most stunning restaurants and the perfect place to end an action packed Mexico City Bachelorette trip!

I hope you enjoyed this Mexico City Bachelorette itinerary! I think this is indeed the perfect combination of activities to entertain everyone. Let me know in the comment where your favourite location of a Bachelorette has been or if you’re planning on hosting your own Mexico City Bachelorette!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Bachelorette Trip to Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

The Museo Casa Estudio has been remarkably preserved and restored. It is open for visitors to come inside and explore, a chance to step into the intimate spaces where Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo painted, entertained and simply existed together, as apart. Come with us as we explore the entirety of the Museo Casa Estudio and learn more about the artists who lived here and the man who built this revolutionary property!

Guide to the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo

1. Location & Access
2. Admission & Hours
3. About Diego Rivera
4. About Frida Kahlo
5. Juan O'Gorman
6. Modernist Architecture
   • Functionalism
7. Designing the Casa Estudio
   • Life inside the Casa Estudio
   • Studio as Museum
8. Exterior Foyer
   • The Bathrooms
9. Diego's House
   • 2nd Floor Bedroom
10. Diego's Studio
    • Mezzanine
    • Rooftop
    • The Bridge of Diego and Frida's Love
11. Frida's Studio
    • What the Water Gave Me
12. The O'Gorman Guest House
    • Dining Room Mural

Location & Access

The Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo is located in the neighbourhood of San Angel, in the far south of the city centre. To access the museum, you can take an Uber or taxi directly into the district’s centre. The Uber fare costs about $7 USD and takes about 20-30 minutes (depending on traffic) from the centre of Mexico City. If you’d prefer to take public transit, you can hop on the metro towards Miguel Angel de Quevedo Station. From here, you’ll have to change to one of the city’s metro buses that will take you directly into the Altavista suburbs where the museum is located.

Admission & Hours

The museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday, 11 am to 5 pm. The price of admission is $40 pesos for adults, but children under 13 and seniors are free. Admission is free for everyone on Sundays.

About Diego Rivera

Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo are perhaps two of the most well-known artists to come out of Mexico. It is perhaps no coincidence that the two geniuses would find themselves caught in a passionate web of love, art and fiery drama. Diego Rivera was born in 1886 in Guanajuato City, Mexico. When he was born, he came out of the womb along with his twin brother. Sadly, his brother Carlos died two years after they were born. Twins have this unspoken, deep, almost soulful connection with each other and this loss so early in Diego’s life perhaps touched the young boy with trauma and pain that it seems many infamous artists carry with them. Diego started to draw at only three, just after his brother died. Perhaps as a means to express his grief.

Mexican Muralism

His talents only grew from then, and at the age of ten, he went to study art at the San Carlos Academy of Fine Arts in Mexico City. Rivera travelled to Europe after flourishing at the school in Mexico City. It was there he would refine his unique style of painting under the influence of modern artists like Pablo Picasso and looked to the works of Paul Gauguin and Henri Matisse for inspiration. Rivera returned to Mexico City in 1922 as he had been commissioned by the government to head up their new muralism program. The project was created to promote aimed to National pride through murals that told the history of Mexico that even the working class, illiterate masses could interpret.

About Frida Kahlo

While Diego was painting murals all over Mexico City, Frida Kahlo was just a young girl with her own struggles. Frida was born in 1907 in Coyoacan, a small neighbourhood just outside the centre of Mexico City. Similar to Rivera, Frida had her own ordeals early on in life. She was afflicted with polio at only six years old. This meant that her right leg would always be shorter and thinner than the left, a disability that would affect her for the rest of her life.

But Frida never let this illness defeat her spirit despite being kept isolated at home at such a young age. She looked up to her artistic father, who was a famous photographer, and it was him that inspired her to start painting. While at home, her father taught her things she would never learn so early in school, everything from philosophy, literature and, of course, art and photography. When she went back to school, she flourished, as learning was something that truly excited her.

The Bus Accident

But just as her life was taking off once more, she was hit, literally, by another setback. On her way back from school on the day, in the centre of Mexico City, just a few blocks from where Rivera was painting, the bus she was riding on was hit by a streetcar. A large iron handrail pierced her pelvis, broke her spine in three places and crushed her right leg, as well as a litany of other injuries. She stayed in the hospital for months and had to be put into a plaster corset to aid her spine and chest bones in healing. This meant months of bedrest with nothing to do. Nothing to do but paint. Once more, her father encouraged her to turn her pain into art. Despite these life-altering incidents, she responded with the same vigour for the life she refused to lose despite these accidents.

Frida and Diego’s Marriage

After recovering, Frida discovered the thing she wanted to do for the rest of her life, and that was to paint. She was insistent on becoming the best painter she could be, so she sought out the advice of the greatest Mexican painter she knew, Diego Rivera. Rivera was immediately taken aback by this energetic and bold girl and her obvious talent. Despite being married already (to two different women), Frida and Diego started a relationship. They would be married in 1929 at a wedding her parents entitled “the marriage between an elephant and a dove.“

The couple were immediately taken out of Mexico City and moved to the United States. Rivera had to paint several commissions in San Francisco, Detroit, and New York for the famous Rockefellers. But they knew they would return home to Mexico City and wanted a beautiful hacienda to come back to. This is where their friend, architect and artist Juan O’Gorman would come in!

Juan O’Gorman

O’Gorman had been studying functionalism, inspired by the Swiss designer Charles-Édouard Jeanneret, known as Le Corbusier. O’Gorman was enthusiastic about bringing this modernist style to his home in Mexico City. He saw Mexico City as being a hub for modern thinking and exquisite architecture. The old Hacienda Goicoechea, now the famous San Angel Inn, had sold off the large expanse of their land to become residential housing. O’Gorman loved the neighbourhood and purchased the land currently being used as the tennis courts of the nearby hotel. 

Modernist Architecture

O’Gorman had plans to turn these two plots into the first modernist home in Mexico City. But when he displayed his plan it was very controversial. Most homes here are super traditional, fitting into that 18th century colonial style, and this new modernist vision wasn’t an appealing sight to the neighbours. But despite them turning their noses up at this new technique, O’Gorman solidered on. He built one home as a proof of concept. This home still stands today as the Museo Casa Estudio’s guest house.

Functionalism

Functionalism was a style defined by buildings that were designed around their purpose and function and revolted against excess decoration that didn’t serve a objective. In many European functionalist buildings, glass, steel and concrete were essential elements in their construction. In Mexico, in addition to these materials, O’Gorman wanted to incorporate clay and natural plants into the buildings. Instead of building fences out of wood or wrought iron, he planted rows of tall cacti along the roadside. These elements were native to the environment and followed the functionalist ethos. He would use other plants to create borders that looked almost like they had naturally grown up around the house.

Another element significant in functionalism is using practical elements as expressive decoration. A great example of this is the exposed helicoidal staircases that swirl up the sides of the houses. The stairs are a means of access and yet bring an interesting spacial element to the house’s exterior. Water tanks and drainage pipes also provide dynamic structural details around the house. These were all painted a contrasting orange colour and created this framing effect. Instead of looking too industrial, they manage to have their own architectural charm. But they are, in fact, used for rainwater drainage so are not just ornamental.

Diego’s house features a saw-tooth roof design. This design, while it might look decorative, is actually used to allow natural light into the interior while blocking out the heat of direct sun exposure. This was a technique popular inside industrial factories as early as the 16th century, before electiral lighting could be used to illuminate the interiors. It remains today as one of the most ingenious techniques to bring natural light into the interiors.

Designing the Casa Estudio

When Diego and Frida saw what O’Gorman had created, they quickly decided to purchase the entire property and commissioned him to build them twin buildings. Each one would act as both a residence and a studio, unique to each artist. The two buildings were designed as a pair but also as two oppositional designs. Tied together through the consistent elements of functionalism and a bridge that brought the building together at the top.

Diego’s studio is painted off-white and rust-red. Simple, natural colours. On the other hand, Frida’s studio is painted the same ethereal cobalt blue as her Casa Azul. Both studios feature floor-to-ceiling windows, giving the interior spaces an indoor/outdoor feeling. But are protected from the elements, meaning you can paint inside while feeling like you’re out en plein air. The ideal of these twin structures is eerily similar to Diego and his brother Carlos. Connected together despite the fates of their lives going in two very different directions.

Life inside the Casa Estudio

Construction on the houses ended in 1932, and the couple moved in 1934. Diego and Frida lived here from 1934 to 1939. In 1939, they divorced, and Frida moved home to Casa Azul. Diego kept the house and continued living and painting here during their separation. After their divorce, the couple actually got back together, only 9-months later. But even after this reconciliation, Frida preferred to remain in the Casa Azul.

After Frida’s passing in 1954, Diego would continue to live in the studio house full time. He treasured his time in his home until his death on November 24, 1957. Rivera died in his studio, and his body remained there as friends and family came to sit vigil inside to mourn the loss. After this, his body was moved to the Palacio de Bellas Artes for his grand state funeral. 

Studio as Museum

After his death, Diego’s daughters inherited the houses. When they moved in, their went about drastically changing some of the most iconic aspects of the house and making many ugly additions. They removed the cacti and installed a stone fence. They also demolished the bridge that connected the buildings, one of the most important aspects of the house. Years later, the houses were gifted to the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes to be enjoyed by the public. Restoration began in 1995 to bring back the original nature of the homes and preserve their architectural value. All the additions and fencing were removed, and the house seemed to breathe a sigh of relief.

Exterior Foyer

One of the most wonderful things about functionalist-style houses is that they sit on stilts. These stilts are called pilotis, slender columns that support an upper level. When you walk into the property, the entire exterior courtyard feels like an open-air foyer. But with wonderful shaded areas under those upper levels to escape the sun’s heat (essential in Mexico City!) This open air foyer really exposes the incredible landscape architecture that O’Gorman created around the property. It feels like a gorgeous garden floating below.

Another enchanting thing to study while walking around the exterior are the exposed staircases. The spiral staircase which curls its way up the side of Diego’s studio is a wonderful geometric cement column contrasted against the solid red walls. The stairs almost have this musical-like curvature that flows out of the house.

The only exterior staircase in Frida’s house leads from the second-floor studio up to the rooftop. She would use this pathway to cross the thin bridge which connected to Diego’s house. Especially considering her frail condition and problems with her legs, it’s impressive she would brave such a dangerous-looking crossing. Especially when it originally was designed without any handrails!

The Bathrooms

Standing in the coutyard, you’ll see a smaller blue building, set behind Frida’s house. It looks almost like a minature version of her studio. Today, this tiny structure houses the public washrooms that visitors can use during their stay. Although you might think this was an addition when the museum was built, this building is original! It was designed by O’Gorman as a photography studio meant for Frida’s father. Even now, just as then, nothing is wasted. Functionalism reigns eternal.

Diego’s House

You enter Diego’s House first, via the exterior spiral staircase. The large, mostly empty room you enter on the first floor was used initially for Diego to display the artworks he had up for sale. His personal art gallery. Today, the space houses just a few remaining pieces from Diego’s collections of Pre-Columbian artifacts. Today the majority of his collections are housed in the Museo Anahuacalli.

During their marriage, the Museo Anahuacalli was a pipe dream of both Rivera and Kahlo. They both adored collecting these precious pieces of Mexican history and wanted to share them with the public. Rivera had started construction on this project just before his death. But it was O’Gorman who would see it through as the chief architect in charge of achieveing Rivera’s vision. Much of Rivera’s muralism was influenced by these pre-Columbian figurines. In Rivera’s art we can see the intense facial expressions and powerful geometric shapes reflected in these figurines.

2nd Floor Bedroom

Head back up the stairs, either using the smaller interior staircase or the outer curved stairs. The second level is where we find the painter’s studio and bedroom. The little room you’ll see upon entering is Rivera’s tiny bedroom. In functionalist buildings proportions of bedrooms were much smaller than we would expect. This was because they were seen as rooms only used for sleep and therefore didn’t require a great use of space. This preserved more capacity in areas like the studio which was where the artist spent most of his time.

Plus, the painter wasn’t a fan of sleeping unless it was with women. The room is designed to have only a tiny row of windows along the ceiling. This allowed only a small amount of light to flow inside. This meant the artist could get some sleep no matter what time of day.

The room is still laid out like it’s awaiting the return of it’s owner. Diego’s shoes are sitting on the floor as if he is about to get out of bed. Besides this, there are also his bedpans left here since his death. Atop the bedframe is Diego’s suitcase, as he was a world traveller. On the bedside table, you can also see a collection of his keychains and wallets. All the while the room is watched over by a series of papier-mache figures.

Diego’s Studio

Stepping from the hallway, make your way into the great studio. Immediately you’ll be overcome by the light that pours into theroom from the double-height windows on the north wall. From inside you can also study the effect of the saw-tooth roof windows that fill even the ceiling with light. Diego’s studio is bursting with natural energy. The trees on the other side of the windows almost look like they’re growing inside the house. The separation from indoors to outdoor is only a thin veil in here.

The studio still contains the original brushes and pigments which Rivera used to make his murals. They sit beside his easel like he is about to walk back into the room mid-painting. The painting on the easel is a portrait of Dolores Del Rio, a famous Mexican actress. Diego once said of Del Rio;

The most beautiful, the most gorgeous of the west, east, north and south. I’m in love with her as 40 million Mexicans and 120 million Americans who can’t be wrong.

Diego Rivera

Books, artisan ceramics and pottery, and little curios line the green painted shelves at the back of the room. Glass jars are silhouetted against the window panes. Inside powdered pigment still sit, waiting to be turned into paints. Diego’s studio really feels like a highly intimate space. Each one of the objects was bought by Diego as they caught his eye or gifted to him by a friend and lovingly put on display to be treasured. One of the most interesting decor found on the shelves is a copy of Diego Rivera’s death mask. Allowing him to still watche over all those and anyone who enters.

Judases

Filling the corners of the studio are these huge papier-mâché figures. Images of devils, skeletons and expressive people lean against the walls like inanimate puppets. These are called “Judases” and are popular formed of Mexican folk art. They were originally created as a part of the celebrations before Easter. The figures were made to look like the image of Judas, the Traitor. They would then take this resemblance of the great betrayer and set him on fire, to rid the world of his evil spirit. As years passed and the tradition became more popular, the figures began to take the forms of other, also unfavourable people or things. This could be anything from images of devils, demons, politicians, criminals and, in some cases, even disliked shopkeepers. Today the papier-mache dolls are stuffed with fireworks and blown up on the street. Much to the enjoyment of the onlookers.

But Rivera didn’t blow them up. Instead, he kept them as souvenirs of the local artisans. Although the simple craftsmen who made them might not have seen them as high art, Diego saw these as treasures to keep forever. Their highly expressive faces now look out over visitors from all studio corners.

Mezzanine

Walking back up the stairs, you enter the small mezzanine that looks over the studio. A small table between the two chairs is set in the corner, the perfect place to relax and watch the great painter at work. On the table is a portrait of Diego’s beloved, Frida. One can imagine this would have been where Frida herself would have stood to look down on her husband after coming over from her side of the house. Sometimes finding him hard at work…and other times, and sadly so, in the throes of passion with another woman, much to her dismay. In fact, it may have been right here that Frida discovered Diego cheating on her with her younger sister Cristina. There is no doubt that this house was a place of intensity from all angles.

The mezzanine is also home to Rivera’s office, just in the corner, beside the door to the rooftop. His green leather desk features a old phone, a typewriter and more pre-Colombian art covering the walls.

Rooftop

From the small office, you step out onto the rooftop, the neighbourhood of San Angel opening up all around you. During the Springtime, the purple flowers of the Jacaranda trees light up the skyline.

The Bridge of Diego and Frida’s Love

Although Frida and Diego had a passionate relationship, this firey love also resulted in both positive and negative intensity. When things were good, they were great, but when it was bad, it was very, very bad. So for both their sakes, having a separate working space where one could get away from the other was imperative. But the two buildings are connected by a large bridge on the top. O’Gorman named the bridge “the bridge of Diego and Frida’s love.” A symbol that, at the end of the day, they still found a way to come together and connect. Even when things were dire.

A narrow bridge connects the two buildings, the red-painted railings all you have to hold onto as you cross over. While Frida’s staircase has been closed down, too dangerous for the public to continually cross, you can imagine how the two lovers must have met up here to look out over the city and take in the night air. Even today the rest of the buildings in the area remain at a lower level to the rooftop of the Museo Casa Estudio, making you feel like you have this private oasis all to yourself.

Frida’s Studio

To get into Frida’s studio, you need to walk back down to the courtyard and enter on the ground level. Sadly, there is not much to see inside Frida’s house. Much of what once existed here has been moved to the Frida Kahlo museum in the Casa Azul. If you’re interested in learning more about the life and art of Frida Kahlo, you should definitely check it out, just over in Coyoacan. But there is one reason to go into the house: see the bathroom on the second floor. Sounds odd but stay with me!

What the Water Gave Me

This is where Frida lay when she was inspired to paint “What the Water Gave Me” in 1938. Like toys in a child’s bathtub, Frida painted the images that swam in her mind on top of the water. Memories of her life float around her; the only slice of reality is the cast iron bathtub framing the scene and her little toes sticking out of the water. The bathtub which inspired this scene can still be found in the house. If you’re a bather like me, you’ll know sitting in the bath really is where the imagination comes alive. It’s the best place to sit and think. Shower people will disagree with me I’m sure, but for me, a bath is a perfect way to relax and reflect. And it seems like Frida agrees.

The O’Gorman Guest House

The third large building on the property, located slightly below the other two homes, was the couple’s guest house. It was here that family and friends could stay in their own private apartments. But when the house was being built, it was used almost as a test for O’Gorman’s vision. To separate this house from the main studios, you’ll see another line of cacti fencing and steps leading down, surrounded by lush agave plants.

Construction on his house started in 1929, two years before the dual studio. The most impressive part of the building is the study on the first floor. Three of the four walls inside this part of the house are covered in floor-to-ceiling glass panels. And in fact, the entire glass wall opens up like a giant window. It’s pretty dangerous by today’s standards, as you can just walk right off, but what an impact it makes! The windows open up the space, and it feels like you’re floating in the air. The panels of glass are slightly more opaque on the lower four panels to give some privacy to the interior while still filling it with light.

The exterior ground level connects to the study via a wide-sweeping spiral staircase. Once more, without handrails. Looks gorgeous but can’t be very practical. A more private (and safe for visitors) internal staircase takes guests inside the private spaces which contain a small bedroom, bathroom, dining room and kitchen.

Dining Room Mural

One of the other exciting things to study here in the house is the remnants of the dining room mural that was once painted onto the walls. The mural was called “There is quite a difference between philosophy and science,” painted by O’Gorman. It depicts a stunning and vibrant Mexican landscape dotted with images of science and industry. On the left of the frame, there is an image of a fragile skeleton. This is juxtaposed with a beautiful naked Mexican woman who sits opposite. She sets aside a cup bursting with gorgous fresh fruits. The message is that one must have progress to flourish and grow. Otherwise, you will wither and die, like the old skeleton.

The fresco was only discovered in 2012 when a restoration team found traces of the original mural. When the house was sold off after Diego’s death, the mural was removed from the wall, purchased by the Banco Nacional de México for its private collection. Today you can see a photograph of the real painting beside the sketches found on the house’s walls. While I’m sure it’s well preserved in the bank’s museum, it would be more impressive to see it in situ here in the dining room. Maybe one day!

Thank you for joining us on this self-guided tour of the Museo Casa Estudio of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The Museo Casa Estudio is a wonderfully immersive space to explore, and I hope this guide helped you learn more about all the secrets hidden in plain sight. Let me know in the comments what your favourite discovery was!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Everything you Need to Know About the Incredible Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Although the area doesn’t have the draw of big tourist attractions like the Historic Centre, this is the place to come to see everyday life. A walk around this incredible neighbourhood with its gorgeous architecture, peaceful atmosphere and fantastic art and culture makes it even more extraordinary than the tourist centre! There is something so earnest about this place. So real and yet fantastically romantic. So while it might not jump out at you as a place you “need to visit,” I would absolutely say you do!

Outside of the busy market on Saturday, this neighbourhood feels almost untouched by time. Walking down the little side street and just letting curiosity lead you will bring you to the most incredible destinations. But if you’re looking for a guide to the best of what to see and do here in San Ángel, I’ve got you covered!

Table Of Contents

1. Location & Access
2. History
3. Walking Tour
4. Parque de la Bombilla
5. Restaurante El Cardenal
6. Mercado De Flores
7. Templo del Carmen de San Ángel
8. Museo de El Carmen
9. Plaza del Carmen
10. San Angel Art Market
11. Casa del Mayorazgo de Fagoaga
12. Bishop's House 
13. Plaza San Jacinto
14. Saturday Art Market
15. Handicraft Shops
16. Museo Casa del Risco
17. Antiques Fair
18. Bazaar Sábado
19. Villa San Jacinto
20. Parroquia San Jacinto
21. Plaza de Los Cielos
22. Plaza de los Arcángeles
23. Casa de Los Marqueses de Selva Nevada
24. Casa Blanca
25. Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo
26. San Angel Inn

Location & Access

San Ángel is located south of Mexico City, just west of the popular Coyoacán district. Pairing a visit to San Ángel with a trip to Coyoacán is the perfect way to spend an entire day. Away from the crowded city centre and up above all the hustle and bustle. I would advise getting up nice and early for your visit to San Ángel. Nothing starts the day better than brunch at restaurant El Cardenal. Plus an early start means you can get the most out of your day.

Uber

The best way to get to San Ángel is via Uber. Anywhere from the centre of the city, outside busy times of the day, it will only take about 25-30 minutes to arrive here. And generally, a ride will cost around $7 USD. Our first stop on the walking tour is in the beautiful Parque de la Bombilla, so you can put that down as your routed destination.

Metro

If you prefer to take the metro, you can arrive at Miguel Ángel de Quevedo Station. It is only a 10-minute walk from the station to our tour starting point. All metro stations in Mexico City have a different icon corresponding to their station. This was initially conceptualized to ensure that illiterate people could identify the other stations on a map.

The icon for Miguel Ángel de Quevedo is a large fruit tree. Miguel Ángel de Quevedo was a famous Mexican engineer who studied Mexican flora. He was nicked named the “tree apostle,” hence the station’s icon. But also considering this area was once rich with orchards, it also seems fitting. Just a little hint at the colonia’s history right from the get-go!

History

The neighbourhood, which is now San Ángel, was initially one of the wealthiest agricultural plots in ancient Tenochtitlan. Tenochtitlan was the capital of the great Aztec empire. Here there was an abundant source of water from the nearby Magdalena River. The area was called Tenanitla, or “walled in place,” in the Nahuatl language. The name was inspired by the volcanic rock bed that surrounded the area. It is also called Pedregal, formed by the eruption of the Xitle Volcano two thousand years ago. The volcanic bed formed a kind of wall around the land which helped retain the water from the river.

The Monasteries

When the Spanish invaded, they took the land in San Ángel for their own. It was here they established a series of monasteries. The most important of which was the San Jacinto monastery, which gave the area its first Spanish name; San Jacinto Tenanitla.

The next monastery to be built was the El Carmen monastery, built by the Carmelites in 1597. Inside the monastery, the monks opened a small school. But most of the land surrounding the church was used to plant a large expanse of orchards. The orchards flourished due to fertile soil and access to water. At one time, there were over 13,000 trees that sprouted up around the community. The school and orchards were named after San Ángel Mártir, the first members of the Order of Carmel. People would marvel at the orchards and their harvest would bring in a lot of money to the order and the area. The popularity was such that eventually, people would simply refer to the neighbourhood as San Ángel. And soon that become the de facto name for the area.

San Angel as Retreat

In the 18th century, wealthy farming families began to seek larger plots of land outside of the city center. These families began to build some of the most spectacular mansions. Many still stand today as exemplary models of 18th-century architecture in Mexico City.

In the 19th century, the orchards and many of the religious institutions of San Ángel were destroyed in the Mexican-American War. The remainder of the farming lands and orchards were removed to make room for the expanding railway system in 1891. This left the area barren of all its agricultural potential which had once defined the barrio. While the city centre was building industrial factories, San Ángel remained untouched by progress and left as a relatively rural suburb. But it was just peace and quiet that, in the 1940s made it a popular country retreat for wealthy Mexican families. These families continued to preserve the historic homes they found. And kept the area as this precious gem that we can visit today!

Walking Tour

Your experience in San Ángel will be defined by the day of the week you choose to visit. If you come to San Ángel on the weekend, especially on Saturday for the Art Market, the streets are bursting with people. Car surge into this part of town, as locals love to come here on the weekend in droves. It’s not just for the tourists, in fact, I would say the locals outweigh tourists three to one. But outside of the weekend, San Ángel is a tranquil oasis. And you’ll find you often have parts of the city all to yourself. But the peace means you’ll have to skip the popular pop-up art market. Either way, there are so many things to do here, no matter when you arrive. The only day I’d say to avoid is Mondays as all the museums are closed.

Parque de la Bombilla

The best place to start your tour of the neighbourhood is in San Ángel’s grandiose Parque de la Bombilla. Mexico City is, in my opinion, the best city in the world for public parks. Each of them brings a new surprise. Filled with beauty, drama and artistry. And Parque de La Bombilla is one that I feel doesn’t get its fair due. In the centre of the park is a giant monument to Álvaro Obregón. Álvaro Obregón was the 46th president of Mexico, inaugurated in 1920. Sadly, Obregón was assassinated in 1928 inside La Bombilla restaurant, which once stood on this very spot. After his death, the restaurant was demolished to make room for a park built in his honour. The park’s unveiling took place in 1935, on the seventh anniversary of Obregón’s assassination.

The Obregón monument dominates the park. Towering over you like a lighthouse, drawing you in. A huge reflecting pool sits just in front, allowing the sun to cast its reflection down into the water, creating a mirror-like surface. In addition to the central monument, the park also boasts seven beautiful fountains, artistic garden beds and even various chess and checkers tables awaiting their daily players.

Socialist style architecture

The Obregón Monument is a socialist-style tower. Socialist-style architecture became somewhat of a trend in Mexico City in the early 20th century. Mexico was encouraged by the Russian Revolution of 1917. They admired how the shift was leaning towards the boots on the ground workers and peasants while rejecting the bourgeoisie and upper classes. As such, they were inspired by the architecture of the Soviet Union under the leadership of Joseph Stalin. The style is characterized by rigid, geometric shapes, sturdy columns and giant statues. Often built to commemorate great leaders of the country.

Obregón Monument

The Obregón Monument greets you with two statues, guarding either side of the giant steel doorway. These are the indigenous protectors, representing “Work” and “Fertility.” The monument’s centre features a large stairwell that climbs to the top of the tower. Inside was once the resting place of Obregón’s embalmed arm. The arm was since moved, but today, a marble copy stands in its place.

On either side of the monument, are two groups of sculptures. One represents the Allegory of the Sacrifice, the other the Allegory of Triumph; two defining characteristics of Obregón’s presidency. On the back of the memorial is the sculpture of the great Eagle of Mexico City. Its wings spread in front of a series of geometric Saguaro cacti.

Restaurante El Cardenal

Hopefully, the bright colours of the park have woken you up a bit and now it’s time for breakfast! Take a stroll up along Avenue de la Paz. This street leads you right into the historic heart of San Ángel. Here you’ll shortly arrive at our breakfast spot, Restaurante El Cardenal. Restaurante El Cardenal is an institution in Mexico City with multiple different locations. The San Ángel location is their newest expansion, opening in 2011. But it quickly became the go-to destination on Saturday and Sunday mornings.

El Cardenal History

El Cardenal was founded in 1969, the original location was just across the street from the Plaza de la Constitución. The founders were a large family who wanted to bring their love of traditional Mexican cuisine to an upscale setting. They saw that many households didn’t have time to make classic home-cooked dishes. But here in El Cardenal you can come and feel like you’re dining at your mother’s table.

One of the most luxurious parts of dining inside El Cardenal in San Ángel is the gorgeous architecture. The restaurant is set inside an old colonial mansion. The building was actually previous another restaurant but when it closed the house lay dormant for years. When El Cardenal bought the property they took great pains to restore the details of the home to their former glory. The stained glass windows and gleaming wood floors make just sitting inside such a joy to experience. The back of the restaurant features a glass window box that looks into the kitchen, so you can watch the chefs hard at work!

The El Cardenal Experience

Their breakfasts are among the most popular seatings, with wait times up to 40 minutes depending on the day. So the earlier you arrive, the better. This is because huge families come here all together on the weekend for a cheerful family brunch. Despite the wait, this amazing familial atmosphere is what makes this restaurant so special. Walking inside, we were treated like absolute royalty. White-shirt waiters greeted us and catered to our every need. It felt like we were dining at a Michelin star restaurant but at a fraction of the cost! 

The Food

To start the perfect breakfast, begin with hot chocolate, not coffee! Their unique hot chocolate is made with famous Doña Oliva chocolate and is like drinking a cup of history. Hot chocolate originated in Mexico and was an essential part of the Aztec culture from 1400 AD.

My favourite part about the experience of eating here was the pastry tray. When you come inside a waiter brings you over an enormous tray of sweet pastries. And you can choose, with your own eyes, which pastry you’d want to start off the meal right with. I went with the concha as I feel like it’s the perfect pairing with a hot chocolate.

Another traditional breakfast dish you’ll only find in Mexico is the Egg omelette with escamoles. Escamoles are colloquially called “Mexican caviar,” and are edible ant larvae. Escamoles have been consumed in Mexico since the age of the Aztecs and are high in nutritional value. It’s definitely one of the most unique and classic dishes on the menu. But if that’s not your thing they have many other traditional options for those who aren’t that adventurous.

While you might take a look at this elegant restaurant would be pretty pricey, El Cardenal is such a good value. They really price themselves as a family restaurant. Although there were some tourists here it was clear that most people gather here every week. And with food as good and cheap as this, I know why they do!

Mercado De Flores

To work off some of the big breakfast, walk down the street and turn north up Avenue Revolución towards the famous San Ángel Flower Market. This market dates back to the time of the Carmelite friars. When they lived in the area, their church was surrounded by extensive gardens. Here they grew fruit trees and flowers in large quantities.

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Walking up to the market, you can spot it from down the street, not only by the iconic white awnings but also by the brightly painted murals along the exterior. Public murals like this were famous in markets like this around Mexico City. Vendors are packed tightly along the thin strip of the sidewalk facing the Avenida Revolucion. In their white plastic buckets are a wide array of vibrant flowers for locals to bring home to their sweethearts with a smile.

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Templo del Carmen de San Ángel

After peaking around at the flowers in the market, head back south along Avenue Revolución. Crossing Avenue de la Paz, lead yourself towards the large domes that dominate the skyline guiding you into the old Carmelite Church of San Ángel. 

Courtyard

While most people go directly to the Museum of El Carmen, checking out the church itself is more than worth your time. Even just walking through the old stone walls into the quaint courtyard gives you so many things to look at and ponder. The church courtyard is home to one of the most amazing jacaranda trees. Hidden behind the stone walls it feels like a treasure that we found was all to ourselves! It hangs heavy over the fountain in the centre of the stone yard. Its branches also frame the gorgeous tiled domes off in the background.

History of the St. Carmen Church of San Ángel

The church was originally built in 1615 by the Carmelite friar Andrés de San Miguel. It took over 10 years to complete, and when it opened it housed the order of the Barefoot Carmelites. It was originally opened as a monastery but they also built a college nearby. Here they welcomed theology students and new priests of the order. The church flourished for years and its orchards formed the bedrock of the colonial we find today. Bringing both money and interest to this part of town.

After the Mexican Reformation War of 1858, the new secular governmental powers closed down many Catholic churches and schools. The area around San Ángel was occupied by US troops who sadly destroyed many parts of the old buildings. As well as looting many of the church’s precious assets. They even went so far as to destroy the beloved orchards.

The old school building went on to serve as a prison, barracks and even the location of the local town council. Eventually, in 1921, the church school was transformed into a museum. It was here they sought to preserve the history of the building, the treasure found hidden within and the stories from the neighbourhood’s past. But the actual church itself has stood here, in almost the exact same state, for hundreds of years. And walking inside feels like stepping back in time.

Architecture

The design of the church was made in Herrerian style. Herrerian style rose in popularity in Spain during the 16th century and came to Mexico City with the Spanish colonizers. The style features a more restrained use of ornamentation compared to other baroque styles of the time. The shape of the building is designed to spread horizontally and symmetrically. And yet unlike many other Herrerian buildings which have flat or plain roofs, the St. Carmen de San Ángel church features three incredible tiled domes. Brilliant blue and yellow-painted tiles from Puebla still glisten in the sunlight although much of the roofs have fallen into disrepair over the ages.

Walking into the church, the restrained architecture that surrounds you highlights the incredible golden altar. Light frames the altar from either side creating the most ethereal glow. While the rest of the building might be simpler in design, the altarpiece is pure baroque. Drama, glamour and gilding are everything that the baroque era brought and we can see it here in leaps and spurts!

One of my favourite parts about the churches in Mexico is the tile work. Every little side chapel or tiny niche is given the royal treatment by plastering them with gorgeous tiles. These minature tiles look like shining gems when the sunlight hits them just right. While some are just decorative others are painted to tell stories about the saints in whose chapels they sit. These tiles truly make Mexican churches feel so unique and gives you a sense of place when visiting.

Museo de El Carmen

Just outside the entrance to the church, you can find the Museo de El Carmen. The old monastery school and cloisters were transformed into a museum in the 1920s. Inside, the museum houses various objects that detail the history of the Carmelite order. When you enter through the lower cloisters you’re greeted by a small series of panels detailing the complete history of the convent and school. Throughout the rest of the museum, these histories are brought to life through a series of paintings, documents, sculptures and even the furniture which was used inside the monastery.

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As well as detailing life in the monastery, these historical paintings also depict what life was like in San Ángel in the 18th and 19th centuries. It features an amazing collection of Colonial religious art. The baroque artist Cristóbal de Villalpando has many paintings here on display. He is most famous for his painting which now hangs in the Metropolitan Cathedral. But inside this more intimate museum, you can view his pieces close up and see them in a more personal light.

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The Crypt

One of the most interesting, or for some, macabre parts of the museum is the old crypts. When the monastery was a working church, many people would pay to be buried in such a holy place. These were both members of the Carmelite Order as well as wealthy benefactors.

But over the years, and after the fall of the religious institutions, many of these bodies were forgotten. Only in the 20th century were they uncovered during the monastery’s restoration. The bodies left here were miraculously preserved because of the rich soil by which they were surrounded. They were essentially mummified. With no one to claim the bodies, the museum decided to leave them where they rested, and now visitors can give view their wrinkled flesh up close and personal. Preserved for the ages inside their velvet-lined wooden and glass caskets.

Hours & Admission: 52 pesos | Free on Sundays, closed on Mondays

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Plaza del Carmen

Head back to the main intersection at Madero and the Avenue de la Revolution to cross over to Plaza del Carmen. The brilliant-coloured buildings that surround the square blend in amongst the vibrant flowers in the garden beds in the middle of the plaza. While the Plaza de Jacinto might be the larger and most popular square in the city, Plaza del Carmen is by far my favourite. Its quaint and cramped quarters are so joyful, with locals sitting out on the benches, chatting with friends, in the early morning. Watching the artists set up their canvases as the sun rises.

San Angel Art Market

On Saturdays, this is where the start of the San Ángel art market can be found. One of the most wonderful things about the San Ángel art market is not just for tourists. Unlike some more touristy markets around the city, this market is meant for the locals. And many people come here, from far and wide, in search of the perfect art piece for their home. The atmosphere is intoxicating, everyone admiring the newest art pieces from their favourite local painters. Rainbow-coloured umbrellas dot the skyline, protecting fresh paint from the harsh rays of the sun.

Architecture around Plaza El Carmen

Even if you don’t come on a weekend, this small Plaza is a wonder to behold. It is surrounded on all sides by incredible historical buildings, important to the neighbourhood’s history. Even in just this one square, you can get a slice of the wonderfully preserved architecture that makes this neighbourhood such a gem to visit. Examples of baroque, neoclassical and neocolonial houses can be found right here. And many have been perfectly preserved since this part of town managed to escape the urbanization of the city’s centre.

House of Chucho el Roto

To the southeast, you’ll see a brilliant yellow building with bright red trim on the corner. This is the old House of Chucho el Roto or House of The Two Courtyards. This building is a wonderful example of Mexican neoclassical styles popular during the Protofio Diaz era. The house was named because it was designed with two courtyards, a lavish expense at this time. The main courtyard was built to entertain and house splendid gardens. The secondary courtyard where the carriages and stables were placed. This allowed the home to separate the working part of the house from the relaxing retreat these country homes aimed to create.

Chucho el Roto

The house was built in the 19th century for the philanthropist Francisco de Urquiaga. A popular legend about this home states that it was the hiding place for the famous bandit Jesús Arriaga. Arriaga was also nicknamed “Chucho el Roto,” hence the other name for the house. Arriaga was somewhat of a Robin Hood-type character, robbing from the wealthy and giving to the poor. This house was reported to be connected to the underground tunnels built by the Dominicans. The tunnels could be accessed through the basement and led to the nearby Plaza San Jacinto. Making it a perfect getaway for a legendary bandit.

Sadly, Arriaga was eventually captured and died in prison. But his legend lived on long past his death. And fictional stories became even more popular after his passing. Today it houses the Library of the Revolutions of Mexico. Very apt, considering it was the hideout of this legendary anti-establishment character who would have been a staunch supporter of the revolutions.

Mercado del Carmen

On the north side of the Plaza sits the popular Mercado del Carmen. This hip communal-style eatery and art gallery are housed in an old mansion dating back to the 18th century. It was also used as an English school for the upper classes of San Agnel during the 1960s and 70s. The gorgeous blue of the house blends in almost perfectly with the sky on a clear day, making it feel at one with heaven above.

Casa del Mayorazgo de Fagoaga

On the northwest corner of the plaza, along Calle de la Amargura is the Casa del Mayorazgo de Fagoaga. The brilliant burnt orange exteriors and 18-century facade welcome you onto one of the most luxurious streets in the city. It was designed in the neoclassical style with baroque-style balconies.

The home was originally built for Francisco de Fagoaga, the head of a powerful silver and gold merchant. His family was one of the first to start the trend of moving their mansions out of the central city and into the countryside. His house set the tone for other wealthy haciendas built in the era and unsurprisingly lots of future houses follow the same template. It was truly a trendsetter. The orange contrasts so well with the dense green foliage and pink flowers that bloom across the facade.

Bishop’s House 

Continue along Calle de la Amargura towards the end of the street, blocked by the corner of the old Bishop of Tenagra’s mansion. Joaquín Fernández de Madrid y Canal served as the Bishop’s adobe here in San Ángel. A Bishop was a highly regarded figure in the community. As such, the friars wanted to build a house that would impress! His house was built in 1631 (!) and is one of the best-preserved pieces of history in San Ángel. Long after the revolution, the house still stood as a well sought-after real estate piece. It was home to various famous Mexican like poet José Zorrilla, historian José María Agreda and politician and general Antonio López de Santa Anna. Today, the house serves as an art gallery hosting rotating exhibitions featuring incredible Mexican artists.

Plaza San Jacinto

Turn south past the Plaza Tenanitla (dedicated to the original name of the colonial) and make your way into the grand Plaza San Jacinto. The Plaza was named the Church of San Jacinto, located just on the west side of the square. But we’ll learn more about the church later when you go inside. The little town square popped up here as it was surrounded on all sides by the church, convent and orphanage. It quickly became the heart of the community in the 18th century and continues on as such today!

 St. Patrick Battalion

On the far west side of the Plaza, on the wall opposite, you’ll see a large plaque dedicated to the St. Patrick Battalion. “Why is there a dedication to Irish soldiers in Mexico City?” you might be wondering. In 1847, during the Mexican War for independence, Irish, German and even American immigrants came over to Mexico. They wanted to help fight for Mexico’s freedom, against the United States. The battalion was one of the fiercest and responsible for a huge majority of the deaths on the American side. So when they were caught, their punishments were brutal. They were executed right here in San Jacinto square, in front of the famous church. But their legend lives in on this plaque stands in their honour. The memory of their fighting vigour an inspiration to others who would continue the fight and win the freedom of the nation.

Diego Rivera

Make your way to the centre of the Plaza and look across the elegant central fountain. There, you will see a bronze easel with the burst of Diego Rivera emblazoned into the cartouche. As Rivera was a resident of the San Angel for many years, local artists inspired by Rivera wanted to commemorate him for generations to come. There is something wonderful about Rivera’s face looking over at the artists in the square selling their works in the square. Continuing his passion for supporting Mexican artists, even from the great beyond.

Saturday Art Market

By far the most popular thing to see in the square is to peruse the incredible Saturday Art Market. The market was established here in the 1960s. Interestingly enough, the origins of the market were due to an American, Jim Tillet, who had moved to Mexico City. He brought the concept of a weekly artisan fair to Mexico City, and the idea immediately took off. The art is both meant for the locals to enjoy as well as the tourists, highlighting the beauty of the Mexican landscape and vibrant culture. There were so many amazing artists of all different styles and mediums. My favourites were the ones that were designed to look like Lotería cards.

In addition to paintings, this Plaza is also home to craftspeople. Here you can find artisan pottery, textiles and even clothing. While some of it is a bit touristy things there are also really unique designers and artists. Prices tend to be a little more expensive here in San Angel but the quality is there to match.

There are often musicians strolling around through the market, entertaining the crowds and creating a more inviting and charming atmosphere. Street food vendors pop up selling sweet treats and salty snacks to satisfy your cravings. Art hunting is hungry work!

Handicraft Shops

If you opt to visit San Angel outside of the weekend, you can still find lots of different handicraft shops open around the square throughout the week. Shops like the Bazar San Ángel, María Bonita and Local México all sell gorgeous handmade decor and art pieces for your home. The spirit of the art market lives on long past the weekend so don’t feel like you’ll have missed it all if you can only visit during the week.

Museo Casa del Risco

On the north side of the Plaza Jacinto, hidden behind the opulent trees, is an old terra-cotta-coloured building with ‘Museo Casa del Risco‘ emblazoned in brass along the fence. Inside you’ll find an old residence dating back to the 17th-century that has since been transformed into a museum. The museum recreates the look of a traditional San Angel house as it would have looked in the 18th century. Casa del Risco has a fascinating history as it served as a residence, a military barracks and a hospital.

Fuente del Risco

The house’s main feature that people come to see is the great porcelain fountain. The fountain, or “Fuente del Risco,” is located inside the main central courtyard. It was made in the late 18th century in the opulent Baroque or “ultra baroque” style popular in Mexico City during that period.

While it looks like it is merely decorative, the fountain’s design was actually an ingenious way to preserve broken porcelain. Back then, painted porcelains were extremely expensive and yet, just like today, accidents happen and you might end up breaking a plate that costs more than a used car does today. Turning them into an art sculpture like this was a way to preserve and display even the broken pieces.

Embedded within the fountain you can spot Chinese blue and white porcelain, plates from the Ming Dynasty, green porcelain from Japan, Spanish Talavera ceramics and, of course, the homegrown ceramics of Puebla. Entire bowls, plates, cups and sauces are also scattered together with broken pieces of pottery to create this magical-looking fountain. The niches are designed to look like pearlescent shells and conches and the piece is dotted with mermaid sculptures. Even here in the hill of San Angel do we find people dreaming of the ocean.

There is so much else to see inside the museum, from Baroque art, religious sculptures, antique stained glass and recreations of 18th-century living space. But if all you want to see is the fountains, it’s easy to do so as admission to the museum is free.

Admission: Free | Open Tuesday-Sunday 10 am – 5 pm

Antiques Fair

On the weekends, just outside the museum, you’ll find high-end vintage and antique sellers bringing out their wares. This was almost as incredible as the museum itself, it felt like just outside you could literally buy items you’d just seen inside the museum. Paintings from the 19th century, religious objects and gorgeous pieces of antique jewellery. The prices are pretty high but even I was almost swayed into buying a locket from 1898! There are some real treasures so if you have the money to spend you’ll discover some amazing pieces in this marketplace.

Bazaar Sábado

If you don’t like sifting through the pop-up stands outside in the plaza, you can head into the Bazaar Sábado. The Bazaar Sábado is located inside a 17th-century red-painted mansion and dates back to the 1960s. Here you can find the giant home filled with over 100 permanent artisan shops selling everything from textiles to jewellery, ceramics and metalwork. Many of these craftspeople are award winners, so their prices are going to reflect that status, but the work is unparalleled. Personally, I prefer the stuff found on the street, but if you’re looking for something more upmarket, this is the place for you.

Inside the central open-air courtyard is a wonderful eatery serving up traditional breakfast and lunch street food. It can get pretty busy right at 12 pm but if you prefer to eat a bit early or late you’ll find more tables open. The food here is wonderful and a great place to try some amazing street food like Tlacoyos, quesadillas and gorditas.

Villa San Jacinto

If the Bazaar Sabado courtyard is too busy you can hop across the Plaza and make your way to the stunning courtyards of the Villa San Jacinto. This 19th-century house has been preserved and transformed to be enjoyed by present-day visitors. The Cafe de las Artes is a gorgeous little eatery inspired by the architecture of the Porfiriato era. Walking up the stairs, you are greeted by this incredible grisaille style stained glass window, bohemian lamps and the Catalan vaults.

You can also study the amazing remodelled garden filled with beautiful sculptures. The cafe sells lots of different drinks and has homemade desserts and sandwiches if you’re feeling a bit peckish. Sitting outside you can get pretty hot but is a beautiful place to admire the rotating selection of art work on display.

Parroquia San Jacinto

Heading back onto Calle Benito Juárez, walk just a few meters where you’ll find an unassuming set of stairs which leads you into the green oasis outside of the Parroquia San Jacinto. The Parroquia San Jacinto or San Jacinto Parish was founded by the Dominicans in 1564. The Dominican order had discovered a small waterfall nearby and utilized the water to power their spinning and weaving equipment. This allowed them to produce lots of different kinds of textiles. They sold them off and used the funds to fund the building of the church and the plush gardens.

Walking inside the church, the thing that immediately catches your eyes is the ornate churrigueresco-style altar. The rest of the interior of the church is pretty austere but there is something so charming about the simplicity. Be sure to poke your head around the cloisters inside the church. This is the perfect place to escape the sun for a minute and walk through the shaded walkways and central fountain.

The Garden

The contrast between the rather subdued building and the incredibly bright colours of the gardens is a wonderful pairing. In the centre of the garden is a fountain with a huge cross in the centre. This was the first cross ever carved in Mexico. Looking closely at it you can see elements from both the Christian and Pagan faiths.

Surrounding the church are cedars, eucalyptus and pine trees. I always feel like this little hidden away yard is most reminiscent of the old orchards of San Angel.

Plaza de Los Cielos

Walking back outside, take a stroll down the Calle Benito Juárez towards the Plaza de los Cielos. This little corner is a gem of the colonial-era architecture that remains in this neighbourhood. Beautifully decorated in ancient jacaranda and vibrant bougainvilleas pour over the stone walls. The little Plaza de Los Cielos is surrounded on the two sides by the old walls of the former monastery.

Plaza de los Arcángeles

Continue north along Árbol street, turning left on Segunda Cda. de Frontera, where you’ll discover one of the most peaceful yet stunning streets anywhere in Mexico City. The walls here are covered in foliages, and when they bloom in bright purple and blue, it feels like walking through a tunnel of flowers.

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At the end of the street, you’ll find the secret Plaza de Los Arcángeles. A nook tucked into the neighbourhood’s corner features a series of benches under a series of stone arches. In the centre of the small gardenette is a shrine to the Virgin of Guadalupe tucked inside the hole of a tree. The name of the Plaza comes from three large sandstone benches named after the Archangels; Gabriel, Rafael and Michael. It’s a fantastically peaceful place and well worth the three-minute detour!

Casa de Los Marqueses de Selva Nevada

Walk back up Arbol and west along with Calle Hidalgo. On the northwest corner is one of the more historic homes of San Angel. Casa de los marqueses de Selva Nevada was owned by Ana Ortiz de Móxica in the end of the 18th century. It would later go on to the owned by María Josefa Rodríguez de Pinillos, the ambassador of Austria-Hungary in Mexico. Maria is responsible for the majority of the renovations we can see today. One of the most impressive parts of the building is the gorgeous wooden gates set between the beautiful white painted trim and ochre-coloured exterior. The door was designed with traditional elements of Mudejar decoration.

Casa Blanca

Continue along the Calle Hidalgo until you reach the large white house at #43. This is called the Casa Blanca, or “white house,” a 17th-century hacienda owned by the Oploca counts. Look closely at the coat of arms above the door to see the design of this family’s old shield. During its life in San Angel, the house was once home to the second-largest orchard in the neighbourhood. All hidden away behind the beautiful parapets of the white house. A small plaque on the front of the house honoured it as a place of historical significance. During the Second Franco-Mexican War, this house served as a bunker for French and American soldiers.

Legen of the Casa Blanca

But the most significant thing about this house is the legend that goes along with it. If you walk slightly further away from the front door, you’ll see a large wrought iron balcony towards the back of the house. The story goes that the woman who once lived here had the love of her life go off to war. She watched him leave from this balcony and would return to it every day, waiting for his return. But he never would come home, and she died an old woman, standing on the balcony, heartbroken. Eternally waiting for her true love to come home. Her ghost is said to still haunt the upper balcony so keep your eyes peeled for her wailing cries.

Licenciado | Leandro Valle

Continue down Hidalgo until you reach Licenciado street and walk north. This is another fantastic example of just how amazing even the ordinary homes in this neighbourhood are. Walls are dripping in ivy and each new facade is painted in a different vibrant colour. Rich wooden doorways and fantastical wrought iron gates protect entry from the street into the secretive homes inside.

Although there might not be any specific historical sights here, these are the streets that make visiting a neighbourhood like San Angel so worth it! The road curves to the right and turns into Leandro Valle. Eventually, popping you outright outside Avenue Altavista. Bringin you to the front steps of the famous Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo.

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo

Standing from across the street is the best way to introduce yourself to this famous home. You can see the red and white building on the right, which served as Diego Rivera‘s studio contrasted by the bright periwinkle painted studio for Frida Kahlo. The two homes are connected via the large walkway on the top floor. The entire design of the homes is symbolic of their love. Two very different artists and lovers that are yet forever connected. This was Rivera’s dream home that he had commissioned by architect and friend Juan O’Gorman. O’Gorman is well known for many different famous buildings in Mexico City including the incredible designs inside the UNAM campus.

The museum leads you through both houses to see their studios, living spaces and a gorgeous rooftop view across the neighbourhood of San Angel. To get a complete guided tour of the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo you can read our full guide here.

San Angel Inn

To end your day in San Angel, head back across the street and to the historic San Angel Inn. In my honest opinion, the food isn’t the best here. It was probably one of the most disappointing meals I’ve had in Mexico City. And for what you get, it’s overpriced. But that being said, nothing can compete with this restaurant’s history, decor, and architecture.

My recommendation is to arrive before or after their lunch or dinner rush. And opt for only a drink and perhaps a dessert or snack. This way you can still enjoy the incredible environments but don’t need to worry about spending too much on subpar food. Plus, our margaritas were some of the best we’ve ever had so there are some definite gems to be found!

History

The best way to describe this place is an institution. The building itself dates back to 1616! It was originally the Our Lady of Santa Ana Monastery, built by Hernando Aragonés. Surrounding the monastery was a series of superb orchards and rich agave gardens. They produced a large amount of pulque here over the years, an iconic drink found only in Mexico. Despite changing hands many times over the years, much of the original gardens have been preserved to enjoy today.

History of San Angel Inn

In 1777, the old monastery was purchased by Ramon Goicoechea, who converted it into his family mansion. The hotel was also owned by musician Carlos Prieto who hosted classical music concerts inside. Even today, this tradition continues with live music played throughout the restaurant. Many years later, in 1908, the property was transformed into a large hotel and restaurant. The new owners sold off the excess land, which turned into the neighbourhood of Altavista. The huge mansion was divided up to make all different spaces, from guest rooms to the various restaurants and event spaces we can visit today.

Walking through the hallways, courtyards, and different rooms feels like being inside a living museum. The walls are covered in artworks collected by all the different owners who called this place home over the years. Famously, this restaurant was so popular that it was even notable for hosting various Mexican revolutionaries from Emiliano Zapata to Pancho Villa and Zapata. They were even seen singing a unity pact right here in the restaurant!

This brings us to the end of this incredible tour of San Angel. I hope you’ve enjoyed the sights we’ve seen along the way. Let me know in the comments which stop was your favourite or other treasures you’ve discovered along the way!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Guide to the Artistic and Creative Corners of San Angel, Mexico City Walking Tour first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

About UNAM

UNAM stands for Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México and is the largest university in Latin America and has one of the biggest campuses in the world! The mesmerizing central library is the highlight of the campus, designed by the illustrious architect and painter Juan O’Gorman. The library’s mural is designed like a codex, filled with symbolic imagery to decipher. I could have sat there for hours just looking at it. But it is not the only building embedded in hidden symbols and rich history. There is so much to see here that lends itself to a better understanding of this amazing city.

But happenstance, we arrived on graduation day. The ceremony had just finished, but many graduates were still milling around in their gowns on. Taking pictures, hugging their family and friends, smiles brimming across their faces. Lots of them were camped out on the lawn having a snack in the sunshine taking in this important moment. It was such a joyful time to visit and definitely worth the drive! 

About this Guided Tour

While walking around the campus, there isn’t much informational signage for tourists, it’s a working campus, after all. So I wanted to create this guide to help visitors and guests contextually explore this fantastic architectural wonder and mini-city. The entire campus is a tremendous example of Mexican Modernist architecture, which defined the landscape 70 years ago. So much so that the entire place was honoured as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007. But being able to have a better understanding of who made the buildings and why will really improve your experience of touring the UNAM campus!

Table Of Contents

1. About this Guided Tour
2. Access
3. History
4. Architecture
5. Estadio Olímpico Universitario
6. Campus Balcony
7. Rectory Tower 
8. The People to the University, the University to the People
9. New Symbol of the University
10. Dates of the History of Mexico
11. Central Library
12. North Wall | The Pre-Hispanic Past
13. Tlaloc
14. South Wall | The Colonial Past
15. Tlaloc Fountain
16. East Wall Mural | The Contemporary World
17. Viva la Revolution
18. West Mural | UNAM and Mexico Today
19. The Faculty of Architecture Building
20. The Conquest of Energy Mural
21. The Return of Quetzalcóatl
22. Quetzalcóatl
23. Chemistry Building Mural
24. Cosmic Ray Pavilion 
25. Faculty of Medicine Mural 
26. Overcoming of Man through Culture
27. Visiting the South Campus

Access

The UNAM Ciudad Universitaria (University City) is located in the southern part of Coyoacán. Visiting the campus is a great thing to do either in tandem with a visit to Coyoacán or San Angel.

Where & When to Arrive

Although the campus is located in the neighbourhood of Coyoacán, it is pretty tough to walk to from central Coyoacán. The best way to get there is via Uber. The entire campus sprawls over 1,000 hectares (2,500 acres), but the most important architectural structures can be found in the northern section. There are several parking lots around the library that can be used for drop-off and pick-up locations.

The best time to visit the campus is on weekends, particularly Sundays. This way, you’re not getting in the way of students and teachers on their way to classes. On the weekend, the wide-open green spaces of the campus are popular with families and students. They come here to relax, enjoying the patios, gardens and footpaths. During the springtime, the Jacaranda trees here are absolutely spectacular! So if you’re visiting the city during their blooms this is one of the biggest hidden gem places to see them.

Access around the Campus

UNAM has the word “autonomous” in the title because the campus itself truly is almost like its own little city. They have their own private security and police, fire department. And even their own public transport. The Pumabús run around the campus and to the main metro stations. The buses are free and generally run pretty frequently during the week. If you’re trying to reach the further afield parts of the campus, this can be great to hop on. You can check out the various routes here.

History

The history of the university dates all the way back to 1520. When the Spanish invaded ancient Tenochtitlan, one of the first things the king of Spain established was a university. But from 1533 to 1867, this university was controlled by the Roman Catholic church. So despite its modern educational resources, the curriculum was greatly influenced by religious orders. Because of this, many students felt they were being impeded from studying modern philosophical and scientific developments that were happening around the rest of the world.

In 1810, the last controlling Spanish forces were defeated by the Mexican insurgent army. The country was free and a new wave of revolution spread across the country. In 1867, the old Spanish University was closed by the government of Benito Juarez. After its closure, several independent schools opened up to teach everything from law, medicine, engineering, and architecture.

The Creation of UNAM

In 1910, President Porfirio Díaz saw the potential of these various disparate organizations. He organized to join them together to form the new National University, the new UNAM. The university’s aim was to develop a new Mexican identity and create a new model to drive the country into the future. 

Tlatelolco Protest

Sadly, the very revolution that was meant to free the students from the control of the Spanish educators would only lead to a new form of control. In the 1920s, all Mexican universities were placed under government control. This went on to include UNAM in 1929. Over the years, this led to much internal turmoil leading up to the historic Tlatelolco protests in 1968. Only days before the 1968 Olympics, a student demonstration that opposed governmental interference in education ended in the massacre of hundreds of peaceful students. Protests still occur today as the students and teachers are constantly attempting to ensure education is free and separate from governmental control.

Architecture

The design of the current incarnation of the UNAM central campus was the idea of two former students. In 1928, Mauricio De Maria y Campos and Marcial Gutiérrez Camarena started to develop the plans for this new campus city. But the sheer size and scale meant that they needed much more assistance. Over 60 different architects were employed to achieve their vision. A beautiful example of Mexican artistic collaboration. The campus was to include the giant Estadio Olímpico Universitario, 40 other school buildings, and a massive library. It also had a cultural centre, several museums and a sculpture garden inside the ecological reserve. 

Construction began in 1950 outside of the Pedregal de San Ángel. The area upon which UNMA university was built is atop an ancient solidified lava bed. The volcanic bedrock was removed when construction began. But never one to simply wash away the natural history of the country, the architects repurposed these uncovered rocks. They used them to make the pathways and embed into the walls of the surrounding structures. The area was also a historic place for an ancient Aztec civilization. University Rector Luis Garrido said, “it was once the seat of an ancient civilization, and now it will be the seat of the culture of the future.” 

Mexican Modernism and Functionalism

During the university’s construction, the architects were highly influenced by the functionalism style. The concept of functionalism was that everything in society should serve a function. In architecture, it’s the principle that buildings should be designed based solely on their purpose and function. This style was popularized by ‘Le Corbusier,’ a home designed by German architect Mies van der Rohe. Mies van der Rohe wanted to radically simplify constructions to highlight their architectural beauty and focus on their function.

The other style highlighted here on campus is Mexican Modernism. Like functionalism, Modernism did away with ornaments and decorations in favour of innovation and new materials. Newly introduced to Mexico, concrete was used throughout the campus, along with lots of glass and steel.

In Modernism, many buildings have a long and low horizontal base juxtaposed at 90 degrees with a vertical tower. This emphasis on horizontal and vertical lines and asymmetry creates a visual effect of expanding the perspective.

Estadio Olímpico Universitario

The best place to start your UNAM campus tour is actually on the other side of the main campus. Outside the grandiose Estadio Olímpico Universitario or the University Olympic Stadium. The stadium was built in 1952, and at the time, it was the largest stadium in Mexico. It was built in anticipation of the 1968 Olympics, the first Olympics in Latin America. During the Olympics, the stadium would host track and field competitions, equestrian events, football matches, and, most importantly, the opening and closing ceremonies. So the architects really wanted to leave a lasting impression on the world.

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During the Olympics, it was here that the iconic image of Tommie Smith and John Carlos on the podium was taken. They each raised their black-gloved fists in the air, in solidarity with the Black Panthers. This symbol was an act of protest against the rampant racism in the US. Fittingly this protest was held on UNAM soil, a university so well familiar with protest. Today, the University uses the stadium for their football games with their home team, the Pumas!

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Diego Rivera Mural

Outside of the main entrance, on the east side of Avenue de Los Insurgentes Sur, stands the powerful relief made by Diego Rivera. Diego Rivera was perhaps the most significant artist involved in the government-sponsored Mexican Muralism project. He is considered one of the “big three” artists, the others being David Alfaro Siqueiros and José Clemente Orozco. In 1920 the government hired these three artists (and others) to help educate the masses about Mexican history. Their aim was to use art to reunify the country. Back then, much of the population was illiterate and therefore these pictorial images were the perfect solution to reach everyone. As the movement continued, the art shifted from representations of the past to dreams for the future.

For this project, Rivera used only natural stones to create the mural. He sourced them from around the area to make the relief feel like an ancient structure that had been uncovered. Unfortunately, Diego Rivera died before the installation could be finished. He had initially planned to cover the entire building in these stone mosaics. But after his death, the work was never completed.

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The University, the Mexican family, peace and youth sports

The mural’s name is quite the mouthful, being called the “The University, the Mexican family, peace and youth sports.” The centre of the relief features a mother and father with their arms outstretched. Their hands reach toward their child, who stands in the centre. The child clasps a large dove in his hands, the symbol of peace. Behind the family, wrapping their wings around them, are a mammoth golden eagle and fierce condor. These birds are the symbols of UNAM University.

On either side of the family, there are two athletes seen in white sports uniforms. They are in the process of lighting the ceremonial Olympic flame. Below all the characters in the scene, we can see the image of the pre-Hispanic god Quetzalcoatl. Quetzalcoatl, the feathered serpent, acts as the ground upon which these athletes stand. The scales of his skin are decorated with images of corn, an essential resource which forms the fabric of Mexico’s agriculture.

Campus Balcony

To head into the main campus area, you can cross over the pedestrian bridge, travelling over the highway. The pedestrian crossing is located slightly north of the entrance to the stadium. After crossing, you’ll see the grassy Edén Garden. This small green space is a frequent hangout for students who want to snag some shade under the trees. Walk slightly south, parallel to Escolar street. Eventually, you will pop out next to the ‘Rectoría’ bus stop.

This large concrete quad sits above the rest of the campus. The raised dais gives you a beautiful view across the campus. The quad was planned out with wide steps leading down to the rest of the campus. This design was inspired by ancient Aztec cities, which resembled large outdoor rooms. The open courtyard and terraces of ancient cities like Teotihuacán, Monte Alban and Chichen Itza were all used as inspiration for this layout.

Concrete was new material in Mexico City during the university’s construction. After the revolutionary wars in Mexico, much rebuilding needed to be done. And concrete allowed many buildings to go up quickly and relatively cheaply. The main focus of this reconstruction was directed toward healthcare, education and public works.

Rectory Tower 

Walk towards the southeast corner of the balcony and down the stairs. In front of your stands the imposing Rectory Tower to your right. The tower is an exemplary model of modernist architecture. The juxtaposition of a wide horizontal lower level with a large vertical tower creates the effect of elongating the buildings. Walk down the stairs to your right to make your way around the building.

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As you descend, take a moment to study the beautiful natural colours of the building. The dividing walls which separate the rest of the courtyard from the Rectory Tower are made of black volcanic stones. The walls of the main horizontal building are covered in tiles made from brilliant yellow onyx. Yellow onyx is a semi-transparent stone that allows light to reflect off of it while also illuminating the building with gorgeous, diffused natural light.

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As you make your way to the bottom of the stairs, you can see the charming black and white checkered pattern made of different blocks that forms the lower level. Walk up close, and you can see the small voids in the blocks that also provide natural lighting to the building.

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The People to the University, the University to the People

On the south side of the building, you’ll find the vibrant, three-dimensional “sculpture-painting” by Mexican Muralist David Alfaro Siquieros. The Rectory Tower actually features three murals by Siqueiros made starting in 1952. Unlike other two-dimensional murals, Siquieros was employing a new technique he was developing of three-dimensional painting. He used the new material of cement to layer upon the painting to bring the mural to life. The cement was then covered with thousands and thousands of brightly coloured glass mosaics.

The mural on the south side is titled, “The people to the University, the University to the people.” It features sculptures of five different university students in warped and elongated positions. In their hands, they are holding various objects representing the knowledge they acquired at school. In the background are images of the modern city into which these students are headed after graduation. A city where they can apply their knowledge and be the change they want to see in the world.

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New Symbol of the University

Turning around the corner, on the east side, you can see a large balcony-like projection coming out the side of the building. This mural is called the “New Symbol of the University” and features the images of two large slightly abstracted images of birds. As we saw in the Olympic Stadium, these are the birds of the University and represent the golden eagle and great condor. The golden eagle has long been a symbol for Mexico City. The two birds are situated on either side of a brilliant sun, symbolizing truth and knowledge. See how the wings of the birds wrap around the edges of the walls continuing into the building.

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Dates of the History of Mexico

Coming back around to the front of the Rectory Tower, you can study the last of the three Siquieros murals. This one is called the “Dates of the History of Mexico.” Above the entrance to the building is a large painting of a series of hands. One hand bursts forth from the frame, becoming sculptural, holding a pencil almost like a sword. The reverberations though that seem to echo out from the hand almost look like the sound waves made by a firing bullet. In this place, it’s knowledge that is the strongest weapon!

On the left side of the mural are a series of dates. Each one refers to a significant moment in the history of Mexico City. 1520 was when Mexico was first invaded by the Spanish. 1810 was the Mexican War of Independence when Mexico was freed by insurgent forces from the Spanish. 1857 was the Reform War and the formation of the Federal Mexican Constitution. 1910 was the second Mexican Revolution against the government of President Porfirio Díaz. Finally, we see the date 19?? signifying that Siquieros thought that there would still yet become a monumental moment in the 20th century for the country. Many students etched the date of the protests onto the mural but this has been removed year after year.

Central Library

The Central Library was definitely the main reason why I made my way out here. And it is without a doubt the most symbolically important building on campus. The Central UNAM Library contains one of the largest book collections in Mexico, with over 600,000 books tucked away inside. To ensure all these books were safe from the destructive rays of the sun, the library needed to be primary windowless. But a windowless building can look pretty boring. So the architects knew the building needed something eye-catching to decorate the facade. They hired painter and architect Juan O’Gorman to create a fantastical, almost storybook-like mural that wrapped around the entirety of the library.

Juan O’Gorman Vision

Juan O’Gorman was born just a few steps away from the university campus in Coyoacan. This was his home turf and as such he really wanted to create something special. O’Gorman employed the use of the black volcanic stones, hewn from the ground, to become the base of the facade. Unlike the other murals on campus, O’Gorman wanted the colours in his mural to be completely natural. No paints or pigments, all the colours in the mural were made from finding organic materials. Stones from all over the country were sourced to create the coloured tile on the facade.

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O’Gorman’s idea was to use the facade of the library to paint a picture of Mexico’s pre-Hispanic culture and identity. As well as the future he saw for his country. The entire mural is assembled like a codex, with hidden symbols to be read around every corner. The North Wall represents the pre-Hispanic past, and the South Wall depicts Colonial Past. Then we move to the East Wall, which represents the Contemporaneous World. And finally, the West Wall depicts the University and Modern Mexico.

“The general theme of the mural is related to the evolution of culture. In the upper part, I represented the cosmological symbols, on the north wall, figures allusive to the pre-Hispanic culture, on the south wall, I developed the argument about colonial culture, on the sides, I referred to the modern age, and on the east side, I represented the atom as a cosmological symbol of our century. I had originally projected the Newtonian concept of universal attraction on the west side. I had to vary it by having to represent there the university shield with the corresponding motto, which, in my opinion, should have gone in the rectory building.”

– O’Gorman

North Wall | The Pre-Hispanic Past

To read the building chronologically, head to the north side. This is where we can look up to view the wall dedicated to the pre-Hispanic past. Flowing throughout the entire mural are bright blue watery canal and earthy “chinampas.” These chinampas, or artificial islands, were a brilliant invention by the Aztec civilization. These floating gardens provided the nation with rich agriculture and even a modern drainage system. Water was life to the early Mexican people, and as such, the water in this mural acts almost as veins. Connecting each section to one and other.

The Duality of Life and Death

The overall theme in this mural relates to the story of life and death. In the Aztec civilization, life was represented by the sun and death by the moon. These two dualities needed to exist in tandem to create that important harmony which balances life on earth. One needs the other to exist. Without death, there is no life and vice versa. So unlike today, where death is something to fear, something we shy away even from talking about. The Aztecs revered death and honoured it for its place in the cycle of life

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Quetzalcóatl

Let’s start the reading of the mural on the left side. Here we see a small scene dedicated to life-giving Aztec gods. In the upper corner, we can see the sun’s image, set within a geometric set of Aztec designs. Driectly below the sun we can see the tail of a large snake. As we follow its slithering body we find its head facing the centre of the frame. This snake represents the Aztec god Quetzalcóatl. Quetzalcóatl, or ‘the Plumed Serpent‘, was one of the most important gods in ancient Mesoamerica. He was thought to be a mix of a bird and rattlesnake. If you look closely, you’ll see multicoloured feathers combined with his emerald scales.

Quetzalcóatl was the god of the wind and the rain. And it was Quetzalcóatl who was said to have created the earth and the people who live upon it. The brightly coloured feathered headdress worn by the priests of ancient Mesoamerica were meant to mimic the image of Quetzalcóatl. Many of the people in the mural can be seen wearing these elaborate headdresses. From below the centre of the snake, an amputated hand emerges from the stone. From their fingertips, droplets of water pour down on the large tree below. Perhaps the human form of Quetzalcóatl watering the resources on earth.

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Huitzilopochtli 

To the right of Quetzalcóatl’s hand, we find the image of the god Huitzilopochtli. Huitzilopochtli is the Aztec God of the Sun and War. He is wearing a feathered hummingbird headdress, holding a large shield with the star. In his other hand, he holds a curved turquoise staff and is surrounded by a series of fearsome snakes. In the Aztec culture, warriors were reincarnated as hummingbirds after their death in honour of this fearsome god.

The Myth of the Sun and Moon

Huitzilopochtli was conceived when his mother, Coatlicue, saw a ball of hummingbird feathers falling from the sky. Similar to the immaculate conception of the Virgin Mary, upon collecting the feathers, Coatlicue became with child. But just before he was born, Coatlicue’s sons and daughter devised a plan to kill both the unborn child and their mother. They were blind with jealousy at the extraordinary way he was conceived.

But just before they could enact their plan, Huitzilopochtli burst forth from his mother’s womb. Born armed with the turquoise snake staff and full armour, he fought off his siblings to protect his mother. He threw his sister off the mountain, and she became the moon. Huitzilopochtli then chased his brothers, who ran away into the sky, becoming the stars. Huitzilopochtli, who was born in anger and fury, became the sun. And it is said that the reason we have day and night becomes Huitzilopochtli continues to chase his brothers the stars around the world every day.

Tlaloc

Below the disembodied hand, beside the tree being watered, we can see the Tlaloc, the Aztec god of rain. Tlaloc also goes by the name ‘He Who Makes Things Sprout‘ so it is apt to see him in the process of raising a tree from the earth. He is very recognizable by the large mask he wears with these two huge eyes and a large set of white fangs. As the god of the rain, Tlaloc was the ‘giver of life’ responsible for earthly fertility. While Tlaloc was seen as, on the one hand, the giver of life, he was also greatly feared. Again, going back to the harmony that must exist in all things. Tlaloc was also responsible for hurricanes, lightning and floods. He could grow and destroy crops all in one breath.

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Tlazōlteōtl

In the center of the left section, we can see the image of a woman covered in flowing strips of fabric. This is Tlazōlteōtl, my persona favourite of all the Aztec gods. Her name “Tlazōlteōtl” is the Nahuatl word for garbage. And often she is called the “Eater of Filth.” And while that seems rather derogatory, she is one of the most precious of all the gods. Tlazōlteōtl has many names, sometimes called the Eater of Excrement. This “excrement” that she eats is representative of the sins of the world. Giving those who pray for her absolution and perhaps a new lease on life. She is often identifiable by the rim of black around her lips from the eating of dirt.

Tlazōlteōtl is almost always portrayed in a splayed leg position, as if in the process of giving birth. Another one of her names is Goddess of the Moon as the moon is a symbol of fertility. Tlazōlteōtl is often portrayed alongside the jaguar who is associated with water, plants and fertility.

Another one of her names is Goddess of Cotton. In the Aztec culture, weaving and fertility go hand in hand. Women were both the ones to give birth and the weavers of the household. Textiles brought lots of money into the household. And a highly skilled weaver was considered a highly prestigious position. That is also why Tlazōlteōtl is often seen adorned in fabric.

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Teccistecatl

To the left of Tlazōlteōtl, we can see the top of a great pyramid decorated in images of shells. Atop the pyramid’s terrace sits the god Teccistecatl on his throne. Teccistecatl is the male version of Tlazōlteōtl. He is the male god of the moon and fertility. His name means, “Place of the Conch,” and he can be seen blowing into a large conch. Teccistacatl is often seen wearing a white seashell on his back, a symbol of the moon.

The upper portion of the mural has all related to the world of the gods, but the pyramid guides us into the earthly plane. The various Aztec warriors can be seen wearing animal pelts on their backs. They were given his costumes featuring eagles, jaguars and snakes as a means to imbue themselves with the powers of those animals. A priest wearing a feathered headdress stands surrounded by the warriors in the midst of a ritual. O’GormanO’Gorman believed that the Mexican empire was built on the backs of their fierce warriors and the rituals of war.

Tonatiuh

The central axis of the mural is dominated by the god Tonatiuh. Tonatiuh is the god of the daytime sky and controls the sun’s movements. Tonatiuh takes the form of the sun. He looks out almost menacingly at the people below with his red tongue emerging from his mouth. Tonatiuh is one of the oldest Aztec gods. They believed that his movements caused the sun to rise and set in the evening. But this life cycle was only guaranteed by the human sacrifices on earth.

Tōnalpōhualli

Below Tonatiuh we can see a pink mouth with teeth bared, surrounded by an ellipse. The ellipse is divided down the centre, with one half being black and the other white. In the centre of the ellipsis, you’ll see twenty different symbols representing the different 20 13-day periods of the Aztec solar calendar. This calendar was called the Tōnalpōhualli, which in Nahuatl means “count of days,” invented around the 1st millennium BCE. Each symbol is a powerful element in Aztec life. They were everything from deer, water, skulls, earthquakes, flint and wind. Each day is governed by a different deity.

The Eagle of Mexico

Below the Tōnalpōhualli, we can see the great symbol of Mexico City. Or as it was known then as the Aztec capital, Tenochtitlan. The national emblem is the image of an eagle holding a snake in its beak atop a cactus. The Aztecs were told to search the entire country until they saw this image. When they spotted it, it was there where they were to build their capital city.

The Moon Rabbit

In the top right of the frame, we can see the image of the full moon, in contrast to the sun we saw on the left. Inside the moon look carefully to see the small red rabbit. The rabbit is closely associated with the moon in Aztec history. The legend goes that when Quetzalcoatl came to earth as a human, he started on a long journey through the woods.

Quetzalcoatl quickly became exhausted in his new human form. Quetzalcoatl thought he would die alone in the woods without food or water. But then he saw a rabbit grazing nearby who offered to share his food with Quetzalcoatl. After regaining his strength, Quetzalcoatl took the rabbit and lifted it to the sky. He pressed it against the moon. When he brought it back down to earth, he said, “You may be just a rabbit, but everyone will remember you; there is your image in light, for all people and times.” Perhaps because of the connection between the rabbit and Quetzalcoatl, we once more see the feathered serpent emerging from this side of the frame.

Tezcatlipoca

To the left, you can see the god Tezcatlipoca. Tezcatlipoca is the god of the night sky and Huitzilopochtli’s oppositional rival. The god of the sun and moon is seen positioned directly across from each other one the mural. You’ll notice more of these contrasting characters as we go. As Tezcatlipoca is the night god, he is seen with his familiar, the night jaguar. He is often accompanied by the image of a skull that can be seen to the right. Tezcatlipoca can be identified by the large obsidian shield he carries. Another identifying feature is the black (sometimes yellow) stripes painted across his face. 

Tezcatlipoca often goes by the name “Smoking Mirror” as he is also the god of obsidian, divination, and sorcery. Obsidian was frequently used in important shamanic rituals. Look closely at the left foot he has pointed outwards. This foot is made of a large bone after Tezcatlipoca’s battle with a mythological Earth Monster.

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Chalchiuhtlicue

Moving slightly to the right, we can see the goddess Chalchiuhtlicue. Chalchiuhtlicue is the goddess of water, the partner (or sometimes sister) of Tlaloc. She is easily identifiable by the flowing jade skirt she wears. The skirt is meant to resemble the flow of a stream of water erupting behind her.

Directly in front of her, you can make out the image of a great bonfire, with a green shape within. Look closely and you’ll see human-like eyes staring out from the fire. Chalchiuhtlicue is throwing her son into the fire. Sacrificing him to give life to the moon. The Aztec festival of Chalchiuhtlicue involved human sacrifice and often involved women and even children.

Mictlantecuhtli

In the right middle section, we see the image of two gods back to back, standing above what appears to be a minature pyramid. Perhaps the pyramid is actually meant to be human-sized and the gods are depicted in their true form, showing the viewer their sheer enormity. The two gods are Mictlantecuhtli (on the left) and Quetzalcóatl (on the right). Mictlantecuhtli is the god of death and the lord of the Underworld. As seen by the staff he carries with a huge skull embedded in the centre. Quetzalcoatl on the other hand is the god of life, knowledge and light. Together they symbolize the theme of life and death.

The legend of Quetzalcoatl & Mictlantecuhtli

One of the legends surrounding these gods related to the creation of life on earth. One day, Quetzalcoatl went down into the underworld in an attempt to steal the bones of the previous generation of gods. But Mictlantecuhtli didn’t want to give them up. So Quetzalcoatl had to sneak in, but he was caught and dropped the bones in his attempt to quickly escape. The bones were broken during the fall, but Quetzalcoatl quickly grabbed as many as possible and returned to the surface. Upon returning to the surface, the bones were transformed into the different races of mortals on earth. Each one has a different shape and size due to the bones being broken into different pieces after the fall.

The Sacrifice

The lower section of the right murals is dedicated to the warrior’s sacrifice. Every Aztec warrior was required to provide at least one prisoner of war to be sacrificed. Only a warrior who had captured an enemy and offered him up to the gods was able to call himself a true warrior. The warriors can be seen wearing feathered headdresses to look like the gods they so revered.  

South Wall | The Colonial Past

Moving now to the south wall, this is the wall you see most prominently when you walk into the courtyard. This wall moves away from Aztec mythology and into the colonial past. And yet even as the city is being torn apart by the colonizers, the veins of Aztec beliefs still run throughout. The south wall studies the dichotomy between good and evil, represented here on the left and the right by religion and violent war. But in reality, these wars were truly a war on religion itself and tearing away the deeply rooted beliefs of the Aztec culture. And imposing on the indigenous people the new world of Christianity.

Spiritual Conquest

The mural’s left side is themed around the history of the religious conquest that occurred when the Spanish invaded Tenotichilan. On the top left, we can see a large image of the sun. Its rays cast light upon the figure of a man to the right. The man wears on his chest a large golden cross. On either side of his shoulders are two disembodied hands that appear out of a triangle with the all-seeing eye within it. On either of the hand’s palms, we can see two red dots representing the crucifixion wounds of Jesus Christ. In the background of the mural, surrounding the large blue circle in the centre, are various images of angels and religious iconography. This includes repetitive images of the golden cross and sceptre.

The Eye of Providence

The eye enclosed in a triangle surrounded by rays of light is called the ‘Eye of Providence‘ or the all-seeing eye of God. It is the divine image of God who watches over humanity. This eye is seen all over this side of the mural. This image is most often connected to the Freemasons, a religious order that dates back to the 13th century. The activity of the freemasons in Mexico has very deep and secretive mythology. But it is believed that many of the leaders of Mexico belonged to Freemasonry. Perhaps O’Gorman knew something the general public didn’t and this was his way of getting those secrets into the public eye.

Claudius Ptolemy

Without a doubt, the most impactful part of this mural are the two huge blue circles on either side. They look out at the mural like a pair of giant eyes. Following you wherever you go. These represent two opposing views on astronomy. On the left, a small banner hangs below the circle with the name “Ptolomeo” written upon it. Ptolomeo or Claudius Ptolemy was a famed astronomer and astrologer who came to prominence in the Roman Empire. He wrote several important treatises. The most influential of which was his geocentric system. This paper stated the sun revolved around the earth.

The blue circle on the left is meant to reflect those ideologies. In the centre of the circle, we can see a small image of the earth and, around the circumference, the image of the sun revolving around it.

Constellations

In the middle of the blue circle, you can make out several small white stars in amongst a sea of larger symbolic images. Each one represents a different constellation. These are a select few of the 48 Greek constellations listed by Claudius Ptolemy in his 2nd-century astronomical treatise. Most of them are associated with stories from Greek mythology.

At the top, we can see Hydra, the multi-headed water snake slain by Hercules. Moving clockwise, we then see Pegasus, the winged horse who carries thunder and lightning to Zeus. The crown represents Corona Borealis, the crown worn by Princess Ariadne on her wedding day. Below the crown is Orion. Orion is the hunter and son of Poseidon, who is joined by his two dogs. Next is Perseus, who famously slew Medusa the Gorgon and holds her head in his hand. The eagle we see is Aquila, the bird of Zeus and the retriever of his thunderbolts. At the bottom of the circle is Andromeda. Andromeda is the daughter of Cassiopeia and was chained to a rock. We can see her in the mural still enchained to the stars. Ready to be eaten by the sea monster Cetus. 

Beside Andromeda is Ursa Major, the great bear. But once, this creature was a beautiful woman named Callisto, the lover of Zeus. When Zeus’ wife Hera found out Callisto was pregnant, she was furious and transformed her into a bear. To the bear’s left is Capricornus, who has horns like a goat. They are surrounded by several other water-related constellations such as Aquarius, Pisces and Eridanus. The final constellation is Delphine, the dolphin messenger of Poseidon.

Falling Eagle Cuauhtémoc

Directly below the constellations and the banner is the image of an upside-down eagle. The falling eagle is the symbol of great Aztec leader Cuauhtémoc. The name Cuauhtemōc means “one who has descended like an eagle.” This is the fiercest pose for an eagle; when an eagle folds its wings and plummets down, it is about to strike its prey. And yet, despite his aggressive name, Cuauhtémoc took power after the death of emperor Moctezuma II in 1520. His ascension to the throne was during the start of the Spanish invasion and the epidemic of smallpox that killed so many of his people. 

The Burning of Cuauhtémoc

Although he tried to fight off the Spanish, Cuauhtémoc was captured and surrendered to Hernán Cortés, leading to the death of his beloved empire. Cortés kept Cuauhtémoc alive in the hopes he would show Cortés where the riches of the empire could be found. Although they had found some gold, it was nothing like what Cortes had expected. He subjected poor Cuauhtémoc to torture over red-hot coals, but Cuauhtémoc never gave anything up. This scene is somewhat depicted here on the mural. His ‘chimalli‘ shield and a feathered headdress are all that are left on the burning stake. Cortés had Cuauhtémoc executed but, to this day, he is considered a martyr by the Mexican nation.

Diego de Landa Calderón

Also being burnt on the pire are the precious Mayan codices. Diego de Landa was the Spanish bishop sent by the Roman Catholic Archdiocese to Mexico. It was because of him that all the printed histories of the Aztec empire were lost. This devastated historians as their chance at deciphering Maya script or learning more about their civilization were lost to these fires. We can see Calderón standing to the right, overseeing the fires, dressed in Catholic finery. But interestingly enough, the staff he carries resembles the pope’s pastoral staff but features a large skull. Perhaps a commentary on the death of the Aztec empire at the hands of Calderón and the Catholic church.

Habsburgs Crest

The mural’s centre is dominated by the enormous coat of arms featuring two huge eagles. This is the coat of arms of the Habsburgs. This dynasty ruled over Spain for centuries. The Hapsburg emperors contributed much to the formation of the country of Mexico we know today. The Hapsburg coat of arms is formed from the double-headed eagle. The eagle has always been a sign of emperors, but the double-headed eagle could only be used as an imperial title. This could be used for a king who wasn’t voted in by the electors but blessed and crowned by the pope in Rome.

Plus Ultra

A large banner spins itself around the coat of arms with the dates 1521 and 1820. These dates represent the start of the Spanish conquest to Mexican Independence in 1820. Another banner swirls itself around the side with the words Plus ultra. Plus ultra is a Latin phrase and the national motto of Spain. The motto can be translated to “further beyond,” which refers to the idea of taking risks and striving for excellence to move a nation forward.

The Churches

Below the great coat of arms, we see a trifecta of three different buildings atop one another. As we move down the mural, the building transforms into different architectural styles indicating the change in eras. At the very top, we have a series of Roman columns. Below this, we can see the great Aztec pyramids and finally end in the huge baroque Catholic church. Hidden inside many different architectural aspects of the buildings are more masonic eyes. It is also within this part of the mural where the real “eyes” of the building (aka the windows) are placed.

The Devil

On the right side of the mural, we have the image of the moon located in the top right corner. Juxtaposing the images of the sun on the left side. To the left of the moon, we can see the fearsome image of the devil, mirroring the same placement of god. The devil is surrounded by a series of vicious animals and monstrous creatures. Whereas on the left side of the mural, the disembodied hands hold crosses, these hands hold swords and spears. This immediately indicates to us the fact that this portion of the mural is all about war.

Copernicus

Mirroring the image of the large blue circle from the left, we can see another similar image on this side of the mural. On the right we can see another small banner with “Copernicus” written on it. Nicolaus Copernicus was a Renaissance astronomer who discovered and wrote the heliocentric theory. This theory stated that the sun was at the centre of the universe. And that the earth revolved around the sun and not the other way around. This started a charge in the course of scientific history called the “Copernican Revolution.” This discovery was at odds with the Catholic church. So much so that they had Coperniscus’ books banned for over 200 years.

The Zodiac

In the centre of this blue circle, we can see the sun and the image of the earth revolving around the circumference. Surrounding the sun is another set of images; this time, instead of Greek constellations, we find images of the twelve different zodiac signs.

Map of Tenochtitlan

Below the large circle, we see a mosaic image of the map of ancient Tenochtitlan. The beautiful waterways that surround the city vibrantly contrast the terracotta reds of the city. It might seem odd to see a map on the side of the mural dedicated to “war,” but this map show the rich land upon which the city stands. The nation’s wealth was the reason it was so valued and seen as something the Spanish needed to conquer and claim. 

Cortes’ War

To the left of the map, we start to see the graphic depictions of war. Armed men on horseback arrive and can be seen charging in. Horses had been extinct in Mexico for thousands of years, which gave the invading Spanish army an advantage. A huge cannon explodes, its fiery expulsion directed towards the city. The combinations of armour, cavalry and this advanced weaponry meant that the Aztecs stood no chance of being able to defend themselves.

On the bottom right of the mural, we can see Hernan Cortes himself. He is identifiable because he is on horseback, in heavy armour, and wearing a large helmet with colourful plumes. He rides just behind a series of men carrying the Spanish flag as it appeared in 1521. This flag contained two lions and two castles in opposite corners. The two castles represent Castile and León, and the two lions are their rulers.

Laws of the Indies

To the right of Cortes’ entry, we can see a man carrying a scroll sitting in a golden-looking chair. Kneeling in front of him is the defeated Aztec army. The scroll carries the words “Ley de Indies,” which was the Laws of the Indies. The Spanish crown issued this body of laws that were used to regulate the social, political, religious, and economic life in all regions conquered by the Spanish. It was these laws that would start the governmental control over Mexico. These laws were just the start of the colonial system that propelled Mexicans to fight for their independence.

Tlaloc Fountain

In front of the south side mural, to the right of the entrance to the library, is a large stone fountain with the image of Tlaloc. The Aztec rain god is fittingly being used here to bring water to the steps of the library.

East Wall Mural | The Contemporary World

Along the east wall, which looks out over the large open-air grassy courtyard, we can clearly see the theme of the atomic age. The symbol of the atom in the centre of the mural represents the explosion of knowledge in the 20th century. Above the atom, we can see the great Eagle of Mexico rising up above. A symbol of the country’s spirit leading them into this new era of ascension.

The Sun and the Moon

And yet, despite the modernity that is featured on this side of the mural, on the top right and left, we still see the images of the sun and the moon. Both of which continues to be a through-line that connects all side of the library murals. The sun and the moon represent duality which we also see represented in the scenes of the city and country below. 

The City’s Industry and the Rural Countryside

The left side of the frame represents the industrial progress of the nation, while the right side depicts the natural world. That natural world, Mexico’s rich agricultural landscape, remains unchanged, no matter the scientific progress around it. On the left we need a modern factory while the right we can see traditional Mexican architecture.

Below the image of the atom, in the centre of the mural, we can see a man dressed in Aztec garb. In one hand, he grasps a snake, while in the other, he holds a worker’s hammer. Above his head, on either side, respectively, are images of science and industry and the natural Mexican landscape.

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Viva la Revolution

On the lower left of the mural, we see two men holding a banner proclaiming “Viva la Revolution!” They are the people who represent the people of the Mexican Revolution. Above them, the three men hold what appears to be a globe in their hands as if the introduction of the factories would lead to the creation of this new world. 

Tierra y Libertad

On the lower right we see another group holding a banner stating, “Tierra y Libertad,” which translates into Land and Freedom. Unlike the factories, the people on the right represented farmers who work the land in the same way that has been down for many centuries, back to Aztec times. But just like the factory workers on the left, the also desire revolution and freedom for their country.

West Mural | UNAM and Mexico Today

The last of the murals we will look at is on the west side of the building. This side of the library faces the highway and acts almost like a billboard for cars passing by. The theme of this mural is all about the University itself. After all the previous murals, which reference the history of Mexico, we finally land on the present and the future of the country.

UNAM Crest

In the centre of the mural is the great crest of UNAM university. When O’Gorman created the mural, the crest had just been finalized, so this was a great way to announce it to the public. The crest of the University was designed by famed writer, philosopher, and politician José Vasconcelos. He held the position of university rector in 1920 when the seal was being redesigned. So Vasconcelos took it upon himself to bring his vision to life.

At the very top, we can see a banner flying in the wind with the words the National Autonomous University of Mexico in large letters. Below this is what appear to be two great golden eagles. But they actually are one Mexican eagle and one Andean condor. Each one facing out towards the university campus, as if on guard. 

The two birds hold a great shield with a map in the centre front. This depicts a map of Latin America with a star where Mexico can be found. Around the shield is the phrase, “For my people, the spirit shall speak.” The motto speaks to the conviction of the Mexican people. Their ability to rise up against all odds, to protest,to fight, all the while their spirts enriched by their cultural history.

Below the shield, you can see the image of a volcano and a series of mountains, representing Mexico’s roots. Surrounding the great shield, O’Gorman wove a series of pre-Hispanic symbols and images to ensure that we always carry the past with us even as we move into the future.

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Students of the Future

On the lower part of the mural, we see the images of the past and the present. On the left, we see the image of an old Aztec temple, contrasted on the right by the images of the modern architecture of the University. Below these structures are the people of Mexico City. On the left, we can see the indigenous Mexican wearing traditional dress, contrasted on the right by a series of students wearing the fashions of the 1950s. They are carrying objects relating to the various studies at the University like science, engineering, and sports.

Las Islas

From the library, take a stroll through the large grassy knoll called “Las Islas,” or the Islands. This large expanse of grass is almost always covered by students relaxing or studying in the sunshine. You can find street food vendors selling simple snacks or sweet drinks to keep you cool on hot days. It’s honestly a great spot to sit down and enjoy a little bag of duros or chicharrones.

You might spot a series of large concrete globes with grilles that look almost like medieval knights’ helmets. These were old lights used to illuminate the courtyard at night, but alas, they have seen better days and no longer work. But one can imagine how these little globes of light would have looked like spectacles around the grass as the sunsets.

The Faculty of Architecture Building

On the opposite side of the Islands, we can see the modernist gem which holds the Faculty of Architecture. I love studying at this building from afar before getting up close. From far away, you can really appreciate how the building is meant to resemble a snake as it moves along the earth. Like a wave represented in the various undulating arches. The building was designed by architect Jose Villagran. As it was to host the faculty of architecture, they really wanted this building to embody the ideals of the architectural school. And provide a modern building for the students who studied there to aspire towards creating.

One of the most modern techniques utilized in the construction was the addition of “brise soleil” or sun breakers. These are the red slats that run along with the second storey of the building. Brise soleil was a new architectural feature that allowed buildings to control and reduce the sunlight that beats down on the building by deflecting the light. This meant that you wouldn’t need to waste excess energy on powerful air conditioning even in the peak of the summer.

The Conquest of Energy Mural

Head around to the north walls from the front of the building, where you can find an incredible mural by Chávez Morado. José Chávez Morado was a Mexican muralist who worked in the same circles as the other artists we have seen this far. Chávez Morado created three different murals for the campus. But unfortunately, the third mural, created in vinyl, did not stand the test of time.

Thankfully the other two murals were made of Venetian glass mosaics. Chávez Morado travelled to Italy to study the production of mosaics and how their old masters managed to capture such brilliant colours in the glasswork. When he returned to Mexico, this masterful technique was highly regarded by his peers, who marvelled at the vibrant colours he managed to produce. Unlike anything anyone had seen before and a highlight for the campus. 

The name of this mural is the ‘Conquest of Energy.’ Reading the mural from left to right, we can see the primitive Mexican people cowering beneath a sickly tree. They are cowering in fear of the large jaguar which leaps above them, perhaps stalking them for food. With nothing but the barren tree to protect them they surely await death…

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The Myth of Prometheus

But then we see one man come forward, holding a lit torch, which he uses to ignite the fire. The man is perhaps an allegory for Prometheus, who stole fire from the gods to give to people on earth to lead them into the future. This man is seen dressed in animal skin, perhaps that of a jaguar, showing man’s dominance over the animal kingdom with the introduction of fire.

Fire would both keep these people safe and move them forward into a new era. As fire as the through-line that connects each of the parts of the mural, the colouring of the entire piece is so fiery! In the middle section, a series of men then carry the flame in their hands. They walk towards the right of the frame, with each step the men start walking more and more upright in their stance.

Atomic Ressurection

Toward the right, two men hold their palms out towards each other, almost touching a floating atom which stands between them. Representing the fusion of the atom. But below the image of the atom, we can see a man collapsed in the arms of a beautiful woman dressed in a red robe. The man’s ribs are sticking out, and he looks sickly. And yet, in his eyes, there is a spark as he gazes up towards the atom. As if the atom is about to resurrect him.

Just to the women’s right, we can see the sick man transformed. His energy and strength have returned as he stands with his arms spread wide in triumph. A ghostly blue figure, the same colour as the energy around the atom, stands beside him. Perhaps the spirit of the atomic energy that brought him back to life.

The final piece to study is the small tree at the bottom right. It resembles the lifeless tree we saw in the first part of the mural, but this tree is covered in bright green leaves and is blossoming with fruit. Fruit is the symbol of knowledge. Knowledge that has been growing with the discovery of atomic energy.

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The Return of Quetzalcóatl

Another mural by Chávez Morado can be found inside the courtyard of the school of architecture. Depending on the day, entry into the building might be restricted but usually, if it’s open, if anyone asks, just mention you are on your way to see the mural. The courtyard is home to a few picnic tables for students to eat at, highlighted by this incredible mural. Perhaps because of its slightly more obscure location, this mural is almost perfectly preserved.

Quetzalcóatl

It features a scene all about Quetzalcóatl. Quetzalcóatl, the feathered serpent, was the god of winds and rain. But he is also best known as the creator of the world and humanity. In this scene, Quetzalcóatl has transformed himself into a giant raft. He carries on his back seven representatives from various cultures around the world. 

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Cultural Representatives

From left to right we can study each one of the different cultures. We first see the image of an Egyptian pharaoh. Beside him sits the hooded figure of a Franciscan friar, a symbol of Christianity. The blue-winged figure that sits behind them is perhaps an angelic creature riding beside the friar.

The central figure has the body of a naked man but wears a large colourful mask. The mask is meant to resemble the head of Ehecatl, who was the pre-Columbian god of the wind. He works alongside Quetzalcóatl to propel their boat onwards. The man to the right of Ehecatl carries two golden chalices. He represents Mesopotamia. Next, we can see the toga-clad Greek representative and beside him sits the image of the bodhisattva in prayer as a representative of Eastern cultures. The final image is of a Muslim man wearing his turban and brown robes.

To the left of the boat, you can see the image of an Aztec pyramid in the distance being attacked by a series of swords and spears. Perhaps the omen of the Spanish Conquest that would follow. Behind the entire scene, there seems to be a fire burning. Fire is often a symbol which refers to eternity, as in the “eternal flame.” This means that even when invaders try to come in and rid your nation of all that is sacred, your culture will remain eternal. In the hearts and minds of the people.

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Chemistry Building Mural

Continuing east, head into the large open courtyard facing the Chemistry Building. You’ll recognize it right away as the Chemistry Building by the giant Periodic Table seen on the windows. The ingenious designers used the square shapes of the windows to create a mural plastered onto the inside to create a larger-than-life Periodic Table.

Cosmic Ray Pavilion 

Crossing northeast across the basketball and sports courts head towards the front of the Faculty of Medicine. On the way towards this building, make a quick stop beside the Cosmic Ray Pavilion. The relatively small pavilion is made of concrete and once contained two labs used to study cosmic rays and nuclear disintegration. Although it is small, it displays some exciting advances in concrete architecture. Because of the slightly dangerous nature of these experiments, they were required to be located outside the main buildings. Today it remains a memory of this period of discovery at the university.

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Faculty of Medicine Mural 

Beyond the Cosmic Pavillion is the brilliant mural outside the Faculty of Medicine. The mural is called “La vida, la muerte, el mestizaje y los cuatro elementos,’ by Francisco Eppens Helguera. This translates to “Life, death, mestizaje, and the four elements.” The word “mestizaje” means “of mixed race,” and refers to mixtures of race and culture. Much of the population of Mexico City is made up of mixed races. When the Spanish first invaded, many Spaniards had “relations” with the indigenous people. Involving consensual and non-consensual relationships. This produced a new race of half Spanish, half indigenous people.

Despite having some Spanish blood, mestizajes were considered lesser in their social status than purebred Spaniards. But they were also not entirely accepted by the purely indigenous community. This social cast system and complex cultural history are still something that Mexico struggles with even today. The three faces on one head in the centre of the mural represent the idea of multiple races and cultures living inside one body.

Surrounding the rest of the mural we can see many of the Aztec gods we studied in the Central Library mural. But mirrored here in a series of surreal scenes. We can see the feathered serpent encircling the background. We can see Quetzalcoatl’s fangs and round eyes looking out at us at the bottom right of the mural. The four elements, wind, air, fire and earth are all woven into the design seamlessly along with a series of pre-hispanic symbols.

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Overcoming of Man through Culture

Heading off towards the left, you can see the image of “La superación del hombre por medio de la cultural,” which means the overcoming of man through culture. The mural stands on the outside of the Faculty of Dentistry. It was painted by Francisco Eppens Helguera, who became most notable for his 1968 redesign of the Mexican coat of arms. Made up of glass mosaics it shimmers in the sunlight. The mural features a man emerging from the roots of a tree. But in the place where they should be ahead, the neck fades away into a bright blue flame. This image of a man embued with fire once more highlights the idea of the Promethean man bearing fire.

Almost like a shadow, behind the man in the front of the frame, we can see another headless body, this one dressed in the robes of a Franciscan priest. Behind him, the great wings of an eagle emerge out of the mountains. To the left of the figures, we can see a giant snake, the symbol of knowledge, crawling underneath the scene. The entire piece gives the viewer the message of man’s struggles to rise up, and only through culture is he given the strength to overcome.

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Visiting the South Campus

This is the last mural we will study in our guide but if you’d like to keep exploring there are lots more areas of the campus to discover. You can consider hopping in an uber or jumping on one of the free campus buses to visit the southern part of the campus. On the south campus, you can visit the Outdoor Sculpture Gallery, the Botanical Gardens, the University Museum Contemporary Art, or Universum (The Museum of Science and Technology.) Or simply wander around the campus building to see more of what this incredible place has to offer.

Let me know if you enjoyed this tour of the wonderful architectural features of the UNAM campus! Tell me in the comments if you’ve visited this campus before or what your favourite university campus has been to explore anywhere in the world!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Guide to the Architectural Wonders of UNAM Campus in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.