Our previous self-guided walking tour focused primarily on following in the footsteps of Vincent Van Gogh. Van Gogh lived and worked here in Arles, and some of his most prolific works of art were made during his time in his yellow house. Featured in many of his paintings were remnants of the ancient Roman ruins of Arles, as they are hard to miss and truly a part of the fabric of this city. And just like this mesmerized Van Gogh a hundred years ago, they fascinate visitors daily. So join us as we travel back in time, long before Van Gogh, to peek into the Roman and Medieval world of Arles.

Table Of Contents

1. Map of Walking Tour of Ancient Arles
2. History
3. Admission to Historical Sights
4. How To Get To Arles
5. By Train
6. Alyscamps, the Roman Necropolis
7. Tour des Mourgues
8. Théâtre Antique d'Arles
9. Arles Amphitheatre
10. Rue Voltaire
11. Amédée Pichot fountain
12. The Porte de la Cavalerie
13. Quay Marx Dormoy
14. Thermes de Constantin
15. Musée Réattu
16. Place du Forum
17. Van Gogh Café
18. Cryptoporticus 
19. The Obelisk
20. Church of St. Trophime
21. Cloître Saint-Trophime
22. Jardin Des Arts

Map of Walking Tour of Ancient Arles

History

Arles has a rich and storied history that dates back thousands of years. The Ligurians were the first known people to inhabit this area around 800 BC. In the 2nd century BC, Arles came under Roman rule, and the village flourished with the construction of the canal connecting the Mediterranean Sea to the city. The Romans sought to build huge architectural landmarks that included the Arles Amphitheatre and the Roman Theatre, which were built during this period. Both of which we can still see prominently featured in the city today. 

The Roman Era

During the Roman era of Arles, the city became a vital hub for trade due to its strategic location along the Rhône River, which made facilitating commerce and cultural exchange a breeze. As the city grew, it became the centre of arts and culture in the Roman “Provincias,” a Latin phrase which referred to the territories that the Roman Republic controlled. And where the name Provence came from.

Many Emperors frequently were drawn to the city of Arles. And even would use it as a home base during their military campaigns. Emperor Constantine I, especially favoured the city. Under his rule, the Roman Baths were built in Arles to mirror the Baths of Constantine in Rome. His son Constantine II was born in Arles, and his son Emperor Constantine III went on to declare Arles as the capital of Rome when he moved there in 408!

The Fall of Rome

After the fall of the Roman Empire, Arles continued to hold lots of power over the rest of the South of France. It was still a major center for trade and commerce along the Rhone River. But soon, its prominence was eclipsed by the ever-growing port of Marseilles. Since Marseille was located right along the Medieterran, they could accept larger ships from farther away into their ports. And before long, Arles ceased to hold any real political power. 

Admission to Historical Sights

While many of the Roman ruins can be seen, at least in part, from outside the ticketed area, visiting the interior of many of these sights is well worth the admission fee. You get up close and personal. Explore hidden interiors, and even delve below the city to see the internal structure holding it up today.

The best ticket to buy for our self-guided tour is the Pass Avantage. This gives you access to six monuments and four museums. While that might seem like a lot, it’s mainly the monuments we’re focused on, and the museums are simply a bonus. If you are planning to spend more than one day in Arles, this is great as it will allow you more time to check out the additional museums. The ticket is valid for six months, so if you prefer to split this tour into two days, you can take everything at your own pace.

Pass Avantage Price

Adults 19€ | Reduced 16€ | Free for children under 18 accompanied by a parent. You can buy your Pass Avantage at the first stop on our guided tour.

For the most up-to-date opening hours for each stop on the tour, check this handy guide.

If you don’t want to buy the monuments and instead would rather pick and choose only a few different locations to go inside, I’ve included all the individual entry prices in this post.

How To Get To Arles

By Car

Arles is easily reached by car via the N113 and A54 highways from Marseille or D570 via Avignon.

By Train

If you are staying in towns like Nimes, Avignon or Marseille, you can also opt to take the TER train. These trains run very frequently and are often even quicker than driving! But note that most small Provencal villages around Arles don’t have public transit. So, in that case, driving will be the only option.

Where to Park

One of the best spots to park, where there are lots of spaces, and it’s very central, is at the Parking du Centre. Along the Rue Emile Fassin. I’ve made sure to mark that on the map. Parking costs 2€ an hour. There is also a public washroom kiosk outside this parking lot. But remember, these require a 0.20€ coin to get use. I always make sure to carry some coins as often “public” doesn’t mean “free” in Provence.

How Long is the Walking Tour

I would recommend spending an entire day in Arles. There is much to see and do besides the stops mentioned here on this tour. You’ll want to stop for food, and there are great shopping opportunities all along the colourful and quaint streets. As mentioned above, if you are staying in Arles, you can also split this tour up at your leisure. This means less walking all at once, and it will be a slightly more relaxed few days.

Alyscamps, the Roman Necropolis

Our journey back hundreds of years to ancient Arles begins on the city’s edge. Along what was once the ancient Roman road to Aurelia. Here hides a great Roman cemetery dating back to the 4th century AD. Behind the tall iron gate and under rows of poplar trees, we find the archaic Alyscamps, a Roman Necropolis. 

“Alyscamps” is a corruption of the original Latin name Elisii Camp. In English, we call this the Elysian Fields, which in Greek mythology refers to the afterlife paradise for heroic and virtuous souls. 

History of the Alyscamps

During the Roman Empire, burials were not allowed within the city limits. Therefore, it was commonplace for the roadways leading into cities to be lined with tombs and mausoleums. The cemetery followed the Roman practice of inhumation. Inhumation dates back at least to the Middle Paleolithic period. The oldest form of inhumation was done by hollowing out a trench in the ground and covering the body with rocks and dirt.

But for the Romans, buried their deceased in the ground inside stone tombs or sarcophagi. The burial ground accommodated various social classes, from common citizens to prominent figures of the time. This included everyone from military officers to merchants. Strolling down the main road, you can still see hundreds of these old sarcophagi and tombs lining the ancient Roman road. Stop to look at some of the details which can still be seen on these tombs, which are almost over 2000 years old.

The Saints of the Alyscamp

With the spread of Christianity, the Alyscamps gained even greater significance. This was largely because Saint Genesius was buried here after his beheading and subsequent martyrdom. Saint Trophimus, the first Bishop of Arles, was also buried here. With these high-profile burials, people from all over the country started to want to have the honour of being buried here. The Rhone River became somewhat of a burial highway. Families had their loved ones shipped on boats in from all over Europe to be buried in such a distinguished cemetery. And tombs had to be stacked three layers deep to accommodate the influx.

The Decline of Alyscamps

But in 1152, Saint Trophimus’ relics were moved to the Arles cathedral. This was the start of the end for the Alyscamps. Having lost its most important “resident,” its popularity dried up. And within a hundred years, the site was abandoned, and the tombs were systematically looted. Sarcophagi were given as gifts to distinguished visitors of the city. And many of the gravestones were dismantled to use as building materials. Some sarcophagi were even used as water troughs for cattle.

Van Gogh’s Alyscamps

But the Alyscamps never lost its natural beauty. And during the 19th century, the locals started to use it as a public park. Here they could stroll and remark on the ancient graves still present in the rubble. It was a favourite spot for Van Gogh when he lived in Arles. He even made a point to bring his fellow painting partner Paul Gaughin to the Alyscamps. Here each one made their own interpretation of the site’s picturesque and evocative atmosphere. To learn more about Van Gogh’s time in Arles, read our dedicated Van Gogh-ian Self-Guided Tour of Arles.

The Eglise Saint Honorat

Saint Honorat was Archbishop of Arles in the 3rd century. When he died in 429 AD, his tomb became a prominent pilgrimage site for the early Christians. In the mid-11th century, a Romanesque church was built inside Les Alyscamps and named after him. Much of the old church has fallen into ruins, but the east and west aisles still survive today. As well as the massive lantern tower that dominated the skyline inside.

The building has almost entirely been left to the elements, and yet there are so many aspects of the original architecture that you can study inside. It’s a forgotten treasure, and even without being covered in stained glass and lavish ornamentation, there is such an earnest beauty to this church.

Individual Entry Price for Les Alyscamps: 5€

Tour des Mourgues

Walk northwest along Avenue des Alyscamps. On the northwest corner of Boulevard Emile Combes, you’ll see a great stone wall called the Tour des Mourgues. The Mourgues Tower is the most well-preserved of the circular towers that flanked the city’s defensive ramparts. The tower gets its name from the nearby monastery founded by Bishop Césaire in the 6th century. The monastery was the primary residence of nuns (called morgues in Latin.) Initially, The tower was circular but modified in the 14th to this more octagonal appearance.

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Théâtre Antique d’Arles

Walk along Mnt Vauban street, turning up the Rue de la Calade as it curves around the back of the iconic Roman Theatre. Built in the 1st century BC, this well-preserved theatre was built to accommodate up to 8,000 spectators! The theatre was constructed during the reign of Emperor Augustus. Unlike the Colosseum or Roam Amphitheatre, which were the centre of gladiatorial events, this building served as a venue for various theatrical performances. Much lighter and less violent entertainment for the Roman public to enjoy.

History of the Roman Theatre of Arles

The theatre’s design resembles a Roman amphitheatre which has been cut in half. Rows and rows of tiered seating are wrapped around the stage in a semi-circular shape. The structure is built into the side of a hill, maximizing its acoustics and providing excellent views of the stage from all angles. Originally, the would have been a wooden roof and a large rear wall at the back of the stage. Today, only the orchestra section, seating rows, and two large Corinthian columns survive. Little more than a few pieces of rubble remain of the once impressive rear wall, which would have acted as a theatrical backdrop for the actors.

As a Roman citizen of Provence, you could attend everything from theatrical plays, musical performances, poetry readings, and political and religious gatherings here in the Roman Theatre. Just as theatre is today, this place would have been essential to the town’s social and cultural life.

Like many other ancient Roman structures, the theatre gradually disappeared during the Middle Ages. Over the centuries, parts of the theatre were repurposed for other constructions. The ruins were later rediscovered and excavated during the 19th and 20th centuries.

Today, this theatre is still used for the very same purpose it once was, to host musical and theatrical events. When we visited, they were performing a soundcheck for the concert later that evening. The scaffolding of the lighting rig carefully places around the stone outline of the old stage. It is so nice to see these sites still in use today, rather than simply being a relic of a bygone era.\

Individual Entry Price for Roman Theatre of Arles: 9€

Arles Amphitheatre

Make your way back onto the Rue de la Calade onto the Rue Porte de Laure, which wraps around the giant arches of the majestic Arles Amphitheatre. The Arles Amphitheatre dates back to 90 AD. The Arena was primarily used for hosting various public spectacles and gladiatorial games. This enormous Arena could hold an estimated 20,000 spectators.

Gladiatorial Events

Gladiatorial contests were a central part of Roman entertainment. These events served to entertain and satisfy the masses while also reinforcing the power and authority of the Roman Empire. These battles were thrilling and often brutal spectacles in the Roman amphitheatre. 

Gladiators in Arles were typically slaves, prisoners of war, or condemned criminals who were forced to fight to the death for the audience’s amusement. These fighters were trained in specialized gladiator schools, known as ludi, where they honed their combat skills and developed signature fighting techniques.

The spectacles in Arles included various forms of combat, such as one-on-one duels, group battles, and even confrontations with wild animals like lions and bears. The contests were often organized and sponsored by wealthy individuals or the Roman government to gain popularity and political influence.

As social attitudes changed, the demand for such violent spectacles waned. And by the 5th century AD, the tradition of gladiatorial games in Arles began to fade, and the amphitheatre was eventually repurposed for other activities. 

Amphitheatre in the Middle Ages

After the fall of the Roman Empire, the theatre’s purpose shifted. In the Middle Ages, it was transformed into a fortress to protect the inhabitants of Arles. Four towers were added to either side of the fortress to keep a lookout over the city. Houses, stables, and workshops were built right into the arches of the arena. It was indeed a town within a town, with a square where the arena once stood. There was even a chapel inside. If you look closely at the walls when you enter, you can still see holes where different structural supports were installed to build two-story houses inside the archways.

Arena Layout

Entering this elliptical-shaped amphitheatre, you can really appreciate how this is a masterpiece of Roman engineering and architecture. It measures about 136 meters long and 109 meters wide, and its exterior reaches a height of around 21 meters.

The structure consists of two levels of arches, a grand entrance, and a complex system of corridors, galleries, and staircases that allow easy access for spectators. You can access almost all these areas today with your entry ticket. Allowing you to really get a feel of the entirety of the arena.

The Interior

While the main attractions were gladiatorial contests, other events included mock sea battles, animal hunts, and public executions. Climb to the top of the Arena for the most incredible panoramic views of the city and the surrounding countryside.

Bullfighting

In the 19th century, efforts were made to restore and protect this iconic structure. But instead of hosting Gladitorial events, it was repurposed into a bullfighting arena. Bullfighting in Provence is known as “Course Camarguaise.” It differs from the well-known Spanish-style bullfighting in that the bull is not killed in the theatre. Moreover, the focus is on the agility and daring of the participants rather than inflicting harm on the animal.

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During Course Camarguaise, agile and skilled participants, known as “raseteurs,” attempt to remove small tassels or rosettes attached to the bull’s horns. The raseteurs use a claw-shaped hook called a “raset” to try to grab them. The objective is to demonstrate their bravery and deftness in evading the charging bull while trying to collect as many rosettes as possible. All the while dressed in spectacular costumes that sparkle and shine in the sun and impress a captive audience. Van Gogh himself loved to frequent these events and even captured a vibrant scene in the arena of spectators viewing the bullfighting games.

Individual Entry Price Arles Amphitheatre: 9€

Rue Voltaire

After finishing touring the Amphitheatre, take a walk away along the Rue Voltaire. But sure to look back down the street towards the Amphitheatre as I loved this framed view of it.

The Rue Voltaire is an adorable cobblestone street flanked on all sides by charming shops, crawling ivy, and those classical Provencal brightly painted window shutters. This is the perfect place to grab a bit to eat, as the people-watching opportunities along this road are unmatched. 

Bistrot le Mistral is a great choice for a hyper-local French menu that changes daily. Don’t let the handwritten chalkboard menu scare you away. Chalkboards are the best indication that the food is fresh, as it signals the dishes change with the season or, indeed, with the daily whims of the chef! For such artistic French plating, the prices are very affordable. A must-check out while you’re in town

Amédée Pichot fountain

Returning to the road, stop to admire the incredible Amédée Pichot fountain, found at the intersection of Rue Amédée Pichot and Rue Voltaire. This elegant fountain and accompanying mosaic were built in honour of the 19th-century journalist and writer Amédée Pichot. The installation was a love letter from Pierre-Amédée Pichot to his father. When his father was alive, he purchased a monumental painting from French artist Paul Balze at his salon in Paris. The painting was an allegory of poetry inspired by a painting by Raffaello. Before Amédée Pichot died, he wanted to gift the painting to the people of the city of Arles. So they could enjoy its beauty instead of the painting being cooped up inside his house. But the city couldn’t find an appropriate location, and his dream was abandoned.

After his father died, Pierre-Amédée Pichot was driven to accomplish the goal that his father had abandoned. On a recent visit to Paris, he was inspired by the fountain outside the Place Saint Michel, which stood on the exterior of a large wall. Pierre managed to buy the house on the corner along Rue Voltaire to use its prominent exterior to build this monument. But you can’t simply hang a painting outside in the elements. So instead, he had a great reproduction artist reproduce the painting on enamel ceramic tiles. Now the painting is preserved in enamel and hanging in such a place of honour. Drawing the eyes of all those who pass it by.

The Porte de la Cavalerie

At the end of the Rue Voltaire stands the great Porte de la Cavalerie, also known as the Cavalry Gate. This ancient Roman gate was where people would have entered the city for the first time along the long road to Arles. The enormous, crumbling, stone defensive walls date back to the 3rd century AD. Sturdy stone towers on either side of the arched opening are called the “barbicans.” They were designed to reinforce the gate’s defensive capabilities, allowing guards and soldiers to monitor and defend the entrance effectively.

Quay Marx Dormoy

Walk through the gates and turn west along the Quay Marx Dormoy, which curves around the famous Rhone River. René Marx Dormoy was a French politician. During his tenure as mayor, he played a significant role in French politics and administration, advocating for social reforms and progressive urban development. Dormoy’s commitment to public service and contributions left a lasting impact on the communities he served, and he is given pride of place here in Arles with such a picturesque pathway named after him.

Wander along the riverside walk for a few minutes. Gazing out at the exquisite landscape which wraps around the river. The Rhône River holds immense historical importance to Arles, shaping its identity and playing a pivotal role in its development over the centuries. During the Roman Empire, the river connected Arles to the rest of the Empire. With goods being both imported and exported from this thoroughfare.

Post-Roman Empire, the river continued as a vital trade route connecting the city to the Mediterranean Sea. Goods, such as agricultural produce, textiles, and luxury items, passed through this waterway. Today, the river is no longer a busy port, with huge freight ships landing in Marseille. But you’ll be able to watch dozens of River Cruise boats gently floating on the water, taking in the sights of this majestic waterway.

Starry Night Over the Rhône

One of the most prolific reasons people view this part of the river is to study the inspiration for Vincent Van Gogh’s famous paintings, Starry Night Over the Rhône. His home in Arles, the Yellow House, was just around the corner, and it was right here where he came to immortalize the river forever.

The painting features a starry night sky filled with a vibrant and swirling mix of blues and yellows. The brushstrokes are bold and expressive, making the scene almost turbulent. The stars appear to twinkle and dance across the canvas. Hidden in the bottom right corner, we can see a couple taking a leisurely stroll along the riverbank. Just like we are doing today!

Thermes de Constantin

A small staircase leads you down away from the Quay towards the Rue du Grand Prieuré. As you make your way down, you are met with a large curved brick wall. This is the exterior of the great Thermes de Constantin. The Thermes de Constantin, also known as the Baths of Constantine, is an ancient Roman bath house.

Built in the 4th century AD, the Thermes de Constantin was named in honour of the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great. When we hear the word “bath” today, we think of a small, plastic or enamel tub meant for one person. But during the Roman Empire, public baths were an enormous structure where dozens, if not hundreds, of people could come together. Bathing back then was not just to maintain your personal hygiene, but it was also great. For Romans, bathhouses were a social and cultural center where people from all walks of life would gather, relax, and socialize.

Using a Roman Bath House

Roman baths were grand, impressive structures. Stepping inside, you can walk around the space on raised platforms to really appreciate the grandeur of the building. While most of the decoration has been lost to time, imagine for yourself as you walk through the now-barren interior with stunning mosaic decorations and intricate marble sculptures. These were all meant to showcase the opulence and grandeur of Rome. The walls would have been adorned with frescoes depicting scenes from mythology, everyday life, and the glories of the Roman Empire.

Visitors would enter through an imposing entrance hall known as the frigidarium, which led to a series of interconnected rooms offering different temperature baths. These rooms included the tepidarium (warm room) and the caldarium (hot room), equipped with underfloor heating systems known as hypocausts. You can still see several of these underfloor heating systems today; look for the signs that point it out.

Roman baths were not only for physical relaxation but also hubs for intellectual and cultural exchange. Philosophical discussions, debates, and other social interactions would occur within these spaces.

Individual Entry Price Roman Baths: 5€

Musée Réattu

Leaving the Roman Baths, you can opt to visit the Musée Réattu just down the street. Entry to the Musée Réattu is included in the Pass Avantage. If you’re not an avid art fan, you can skip this stop. But the museum is very small, so even if you just want to peek inside to see a few pieces, you won’t spend very much time inside.

The Musée Réattu is housed in a former 15th-century priory. Exploring some of the historic parts of the building is one of the best reasons to stop here. The museum primarily showcases the world of Jacques Réattu, an influential French artist who was born in Arles. Réattu’s artistic journey took him from his hometown to the vibrant Paris art scene. It was in Paris that he gained recognition for his exceptional painting. But he never forgot about his beloved home of Arles. While Van Gogh might be the biggest name to have worked in Arles, Réattu is the homegrown pride of the city.

Réattu’s artistic repertoire encompassed various subjects, from historical and mythological themes. His works often exhibited a harmonious blend of classicism and romanticism, with a keen attention to detail and a deep understanding of human emotions.

Picasso’s Arlesienne

Also included in the museum’s collection is a series of eight portraits painted by Picasso of his muse Jacqueline Roque, dressed as an Arlesienne. The term “Arlesienne” was often used to describe the traditional costume worn by women in the Arles region in the 19th century. This traditional dress typically includes a white or light-coloured blouse, a full black skirt, and an elaborate, intricately embroidered black velvet bodice. The outfit is completed with a headdress adorned with ribbons and flowers, which vary depending on the occasion. The Arlesienne has become an enduring symbol of Provencal and was also frequently painted by Gaugin and Van Gogh.

Individual Entry Price Roman Baths: 8€

Place du Forum

From the museum, let’s meander down toward the Place du Forum. Turn left onto Rue Dominique Maisto, then right onto Rue du Sauvage, leading into Rue de la Place. The Place du Forum is a picturesque, vibrant square steeped in history and surrounded by charming cafes and shops.

The Place du Forum is named after the Roman Forum that once stood a few blocks away. Today, remnants of the ancient Roman city can still be seen embedded into the walls of the square. Look closely at the building on the corner, now the Nord-Pinus Hotel. You can see it embedded in the hotel are two Roman Corinthian columns. These tall columns once supported a Roman temple that occupied this space. 

A Corinthian column can be recognized immediately by its elaborate capitals decorated in acanthus leaves arranged in a spiral pattern, surrounding a central bell-shaped element called the “abacus.” 

Van Gogh Café

At the heart of the Place du Forum stands the iconic Le Cafe La Nuit. Better known as the Van Gogh Café. This café features a bright yellow facade, believed to be the same café that inspired Van Gogh’s famous artwork, “Café Terrace at Night.”

While the cafe might stand in the same spot as the original cafe from the painting, the ownership has changed hands many times. And today, the cafe sadly has a poor reupitation as a tourist trap. If you want to stop for an aperitif, consider L’Apostrophe Restaurant two doors down instead. If you can snag a spot outside, you have a beautiful view of the Yellow Cafe without the tourist trap prices and poor-quality food and service. After all this walking, you’ll definitely have deserved a sweet aperitif.

Cryptoporticus 

Continue your journey towards the Cryptoporticus of the Roman Forum. This spot is just a few blocks from the Place du Forum. You must enter the old Town Hall of Arles to get inside. Once inside, you’ll find the entrance to the underground passageway. 

The Cryptoportiques d’Arles, also known as the Arles Cryptoporticus, dates back to the 1st century BC. These underground vaults were constructed to serve various functions, including supporting the enormous Roman Forum above. The Cryptoportiques consist of a network of underground galleries and corridors. These galleries are supported by a series of arches and pillars, characteristic of Roman architectural engineering. The ceilings of the passageways are vaulted, allowing for the even distribution of weight and enhancing the structure’s stability. Walking around in the dark, you feel like you’ve entered a labyrinth, and perhaps a minotaur lurks around the next corner…

The walls and pillars of the Cryptoportiques were made using locally sourced stone, primarily limestone and sandstone. The choice of these durable materials contributed to the fact that this part of Roman Arles has been so pristinely preserved today. Since the temperature was much cooler in these underground passages, the Cryptoportiques were also employed as storage space.

Individual Entry Price Roman Baths: 5€

The Obelisk

After returning to street level, head out the doors from the city hall, which leads onto the Place de la République, the heart of the historic city center. Standing in the centre of the square is the monumental Obélisque d’Arles. The Obélisque d’Arles is one of the oldest surviving Roman obelisks in France. Standing approximately 15 meters (about 49 feet) in height. The Obelisk is made of reddish-pink granite, not native to France. This means that the Obelisk would have been brought in as far as Asian Minor in the region of Troy.

This majestic Obelisk dates back to the 4th century AD, although when it was first installed in the city, it stood in the centre of the Roman circus. A Roman circus, also known as “circus maximus” in Latin, was a large, elongated, and open-air venue used primarily for chariot racing, one of ancient Rome’s most popular and thrilling forms of entertainment. 

When the Roman circus was demolished, the Obelisk collapsed or was knocked down. Breaking it into two different parts. It wasn’t until 1389 that the Obelisk was discovered and brought into the Amphitheatre to be displayed. In 1676, Louis XIV decreed it should be moved into the town square. And four engravings dedicated to the glory of Louis XIV were added. The decorative base was added in the 19th century, along with the fountain’s basin and surrounding bronze lion head water spouts.

Church of St. Trophime

On the east side of the town square stands the great Church of St. Trophime.  While the majority of the church we see today was completed in the 12th century, such an extraordinary structure took time to complete, and there are elements from the 11th century and even earlier still to be found throughout.

The church is named for Saint Trophimus, one of the early Christian saints and the first bishop of Arles. Originally the church was named Saint Stephen, but in 972, the relics of Saint Trophimus were reinterred, and the church was renamed in his honour.

Its exterior facade, adorned with exquisite Romanesque carvings, is a magnificent example of medieval artistry and storytelling through art. Back in the medieval era, peasants were barely literate. Communicating these religious ideas and stories through art and imagery was paramount.

The Portal

The elaborate portal, known as the “Portal of the Last Judgment,” is the doorway through which visitors have entered the church for hundreds of years. For our purposes on this tour of Roman art and architecture in Arles, you should note how the archway leading into the church is reminiscent of a Roman triumphal arch.

The Tympanum

In the semi-circle above the doorway is the tympanum. Here we can see the image of Christ, seated, holding the Bible on his knees. On either side of him are found animals representing the four evangelists. The winged lion for Saint Mark, an angel for Saint Matthew, an eagle for Saint John and a winged bull for Saint Luke. Surrounding the archivolt (a moulding that frames the arch) is a choir of angels with vivid expressions; you can hear them singing.

Lintels and Pilasters

The lintel, the band of stone that runs under the tympanum, depicts the souls of the dead in a The souls on the left are dressed in fine garb procession bound for judgement. The souls on the left (the righteous) march towards the centre, led by an angel with outstretched wings towards the twelve apostles. They are seated in the centre, holding a book on their knees, ready for judgment. On the right, we have the souls of the damned, who have been turned away as they walk naked and chained toward their doom.

The pilasters that support the lintel are also very interesting, and it’s worth studying the intricate carvings on their base. Evil beasts and monsters torment the souls of the damned. And the huge face of Samson’s slain lion is almost wrapped around the base of the column. These tormented scenes are contrasted above, with the column capitals covered in various decorative elements like acanthus leaves, foliage, and vegetal motifs, almost like they depict heaven and hell throughout this imagery.

Outer Frieze

A frieze behind the pilasters depicts the major saints of the Church, including Saint Stephen and Saint Trophime. You can spot Saint Trophime on the left dressed in his episcopal costume holding a curved cane, a Crozier, in his hand. He is also seen being crowned two angles.

If you look closely, there is a secondary frieze above the apostles which illustrates the childhood of Christ. Starting with the Annunciation made to Mary, the dream of Joseph into the Massacre of the Innocents and the Flight to Egypt and finally, the Nativity.

Interior

Entry into the church’s interior is free, but the St. Trophime Cloisers, located next door, require an admission fee. Thankfully if you purchased the Pass Avantage, this is included in your pass. We will explore the cloisters after briefly walking through the church’s interior.

Aubusson Tapestries

Entering the church, we can tell right away that this is a romanesque construction. The columns are thick and rudimentary. Lacking the lightness of many later gothic churches. There is a heavy atmosphere inside. The stoney interior of the church is lacking in carved decorations. Several side chapels were rebuilt during the Gothic periods, as these are doubtlessly the most elaborate designs inside the church. To add some interest to the austere church, tapestries were hung on the blank walls. These date back to the 17th century and illustrate scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary.

Early Christian sarcophagi

Throughout the church, see if you can spot the three early Christian sarcophagi that were brought to the church from their original resting place in Les Alsycamps. Unlike the remaining tombs in Les Alsycamps, these sarcophagi are covered in complicated and precise carvings. They almost appear architectural in their design, comprising arches, pilasters and niches that frame tiny figures representing various biblical stories. The earliest of these tombs dates to the 4th century, although they only made this church their resting place in the 19th century.

Chapel of Saint-Genès

Make a point to stop at the chapel of Saint-Genès to the north of the transept. This is where one of the old sarcophagi is held and where you can find a beautiful white marble statue of the Virgin Mary. This statue was originally placed in the Saint-Honorat-des-Alyscamps and is a great example of the beautiful decorations that would have once adorned the church we saw at the start of this tour.

Reliquary chapel

My favourite part of the church is the reliquary chapel. Hidden behind a filagree wrought-iron gate, under a blue-painted ceiling with stars dotting the sky, are dozens of golden reliquaries. A reliquary is a container to house and display relics, which are objects or remains believed to have a special connection to a saint or religious figure. These reliquaries are stunning works of art all on their own. The most important of these reliquaries is that of Saint Trophimus, patron of the church. But you can also see reliquary for Saint Stephen, Saint Anne, and even the Mother of Mary.

Cloître Saint-Trophime

Exiting the church, walk back onto the square and pass through the Palais de l’Archevêché. This leads you into an interior courtyard where you’ll find the entrance to the Cloître Saint-Trophime. Initially, the church would have been connected to these cloisters, but since the cloisters now require a ticketed entry, this side entrance was constructed to filter guests into the building here. Walking through this courtyard, be sure to admire the exquisite vantage point you have here to gaze up at the old Romanesque church tower.

History of Cloître Saint-Trophime

The Cloître Saint-Trophime was built during the 12th and 13th centuries. It served as the monastery’s private quarters for the canons of Saint-Trophime. It was a place for them to gather for prayer, contemplation, and meditation. Providing a quiet and peaceful sanctuary away from the hustle and bustle of daily life. Surrounding the cloisters are a dormitory, refectory and dining hall were also built where the canons could continue their private life outside the church. But just as these buildings were being constructed, the Counts of Provence moved from Arles to Aix and much of the wealth that the city had been used to dissipated.

Another big hit to the continued construction of the Cloisters was in 1348 when the Black Death came to Provence, vastly reducing the population of almost every infected. When the canons filled the cloister, these buildings became granaries and storehouses for food. As such, when you visit the dormitory, refectory and dining hall interiors, you’ll notice a difference in the style of these buildings.

The highlight of the cloister is its exquisite arcades adorned with elaborately sculpted capitals. These capitals depict various biblical scenes and religious figures. Each is intricately carved with meticulous detail.

Interior Courtyard

West Gallery

You enter through the gallery’s west portions into a space built around 1375. The southern and western galleries, built later in the construction of the cloisters, are Gothic, whereas the north and east galleries are Romasnaques.

The images on the columns here are devoted to religious figures and scenes popular in Provence. You” find the story of Samson slaying the lion, the stoning of St. Stephen, Mary Magdalene kissing Christ’s feet and the Coronation of the Virgin.

North Gallery

Each section of the cloisters is divided into the north, south, east and west galleries. The North Gallery’s main themes you can keep your eyes looking to spot as you stroll through the cloister. This is the resurrection of Christ and the glorification of the patron saints of the city, Saint Trophime and Saint Stephen.

Saint Trophime

To find Saint Trophime, head to the northwest corner of the cloisters. He stands with his right palm facing the viewer while the left holds onto his curved crook, although the top of the cane has since been broken off and lost to history. On his right and left, respectively, are Saint Peter and Saint John. Saint Peter sent Saint Trophime to Gaul, now modern-day France, to evangelize the people there and become Archbishop of Arles.

Above the doorways, you can make out the coat of arms carved onto the lintel. This image represents the coat of arms of Arles. You can see an eagle with spread wings wide; this symbolized the Holy Roman Emperor, who at the time ruled Arles.

Eastern Gallery

The eastern gallery columns focus on the passion of Christ. Throughout the carvings, you can see the Christ being flogged bare-chested while tied to a column. Judas is also widely represented here, carrying the purse of coins given to Judas in exchange for his betrayal and that fateful kiss. We also can spot scenes from the last supper.

South Gallery

The south gallery features columns telling how Saint Trophime became a saint. You can see depictions of St. Trophime and Christ himself blessing the Alyscamps, the miracles they performed, and even how they brought a knight back to life! See if you can spot the scene of falsely accursed men being hanged on the gibbet who were saved by Saint Trophime. And faced with this miracle, King Charlemagne was forced to set them free.

Be sure to take a walk inside the old stone dormitory building. Despite being completely empty, it’s worth entering to admire the ethereal glow of the tiny yet intricately painted, stained glass window that cast a golden glow into the room.

Heading to the second level, you can walk around the upper deck, which wraps around the lower level’s courtyard. From this vantage point, you have a stunning view of the cloisters below and an exquisite view of the old Romanesque Bell tower of the adjoining church.

Individual Entry Price the Cloisters: 6€

Jardin Des Arts

The cloisters are where we end the historical walking tour of Arles. But if you’re in search of the perfect on-theme place to enjoy a final meal in Arles, make your way to the Jardin Des Arts restaurant. This restaurant is located inside a 13th-century cloister. The Order of the Trinitarians founded their church here in 1198. And built a beautiful cloister and gardens where they lived and worked.

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During the Revolution, the property was abandoned and partially destroyed. All that remained was the nave and some parts of the old cloister galleries. Thanks to the restaurant’s efforts, many remaining spaces have been restored and transformed into stunning restaurants. You can eat inside below the old vaults or outside on their charming outdoor terrace, where you can relax amongst the beautiful greenery. The menu features some classic French dishes, but if you’ve never tried Daube, this is a wonderful place to try this Provencal classic.

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As you drive back to your home base or enjoy your dinner on the terrace, I hope you reflect on the wonderful journey we have taken into the ancient past of Arles. Hopefully, this tour allowed you to imagine yourself in the fascinating world of gladiators, emperors, and Roman antiquities. And that you leave Arles with a new sense of appreciation for all the people of this city who have helped preserve their past for generations to come.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Historical Walking Tour of Ancient Arles first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Although the area doesn’t have the draw of big tourist attractions like the Historic Centre, this is the place to come to see everyday life. A walk around this incredible neighbourhood with its gorgeous architecture, peaceful atmosphere and fantastic art and culture makes it even more extraordinary than the tourist centre! There is something so earnest about this place. So real and yet fantastically romantic. So while it might not jump out at you as a place you “need to visit,” I would absolutely say you do!

Outside of the busy market on Saturday, this neighbourhood feels almost untouched by time. Walking down the little side street and just letting curiosity lead you will bring you to the most incredible destinations. But if you’re looking for a guide to the best of what to see and do here in San Ángel, I’ve got you covered!

Table Of Contents

1. Location & Access
2. History
3. Walking Tour
4. Parque de la Bombilla
5. Restaurante El Cardenal
6. Mercado De Flores
7. Templo del Carmen de San Ángel
8. Museo de El Carmen
9. Plaza del Carmen
10. San Angel Art Market
11. Casa del Mayorazgo de Fagoaga
12. Bishop's House 
13. Plaza San Jacinto
14. Saturday Art Market
15. Handicraft Shops
16. Museo Casa del Risco
17. Antiques Fair
18. Bazaar Sábado
19. Villa San Jacinto
20. Parroquia San Jacinto
21. Plaza de Los Cielos
22. Plaza de los Arcángeles
23. Casa de Los Marqueses de Selva Nevada
24. Casa Blanca
25. Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo
26. San Angel Inn

Location & Access

San Ángel is located south of Mexico City, just west of the popular Coyoacán district. Pairing a visit to San Ángel with a trip to Coyoacán is the perfect way to spend an entire day. Away from the crowded city centre and up above all the hustle and bustle. I would advise getting up nice and early for your visit to San Ángel. Nothing starts the day better than brunch at restaurant El Cardenal. Plus an early start means you can get the most out of your day.

Uber

The best way to get to San Ángel is via Uber. Anywhere from the centre of the city, outside busy times of the day, it will only take about 25-30 minutes to arrive here. And generally, a ride will cost around $7 USD. Our first stop on the walking tour is in the beautiful Parque de la Bombilla, so you can put that down as your routed destination.

Metro

If you prefer to take the metro, you can arrive at Miguel Ángel de Quevedo Station. It is only a 10-minute walk from the station to our tour starting point. All metro stations in Mexico City have a different icon corresponding to their station. This was initially conceptualized to ensure that illiterate people could identify the other stations on a map.

The icon for Miguel Ángel de Quevedo is a large fruit tree. Miguel Ángel de Quevedo was a famous Mexican engineer who studied Mexican flora. He was nicked named the “tree apostle,” hence the station’s icon. But also considering this area was once rich with orchards, it also seems fitting. Just a little hint at the colonia’s history right from the get-go!

History

The neighbourhood, which is now San Ángel, was initially one of the wealthiest agricultural plots in ancient Tenochtitlan. Tenochtitlan was the capital of the great Aztec empire. Here there was an abundant source of water from the nearby Magdalena River. The area was called Tenanitla, or “walled in place,” in the Nahuatl language. The name was inspired by the volcanic rock bed that surrounded the area. It is also called Pedregal, formed by the eruption of the Xitle Volcano two thousand years ago. The volcanic bed formed a kind of wall around the land which helped retain the water from the river.

The Monasteries

When the Spanish invaded, they took the land in San Ángel for their own. It was here they established a series of monasteries. The most important of which was the San Jacinto monastery, which gave the area its first Spanish name; San Jacinto Tenanitla.

The next monastery to be built was the El Carmen monastery, built by the Carmelites in 1597. Inside the monastery, the monks opened a small school. But most of the land surrounding the church was used to plant a large expanse of orchards. The orchards flourished due to fertile soil and access to water. At one time, there were over 13,000 trees that sprouted up around the community. The school and orchards were named after San Ángel Mártir, the first members of the Order of Carmel. People would marvel at the orchards and their harvest would bring in a lot of money to the order and the area. The popularity was such that eventually, people would simply refer to the neighbourhood as San Ángel. And soon that become the de facto name for the area.

San Angel as Retreat

In the 18th century, wealthy farming families began to seek larger plots of land outside of the city center. These families began to build some of the most spectacular mansions. Many still stand today as exemplary models of 18th-century architecture in Mexico City.

In the 19th century, the orchards and many of the religious institutions of San Ángel were destroyed in the Mexican-American War. The remainder of the farming lands and orchards were removed to make room for the expanding railway system in 1891. This left the area barren of all its agricultural potential which had once defined the barrio. While the city centre was building industrial factories, San Ángel remained untouched by progress and left as a relatively rural suburb. But it was just peace and quiet that, in the 1940s made it a popular country retreat for wealthy Mexican families. These families continued to preserve the historic homes they found. And kept the area as this precious gem that we can visit today!

Walking Tour

Your experience in San Ángel will be defined by the day of the week you choose to visit. If you come to San Ángel on the weekend, especially on Saturday for the Art Market, the streets are bursting with people. Car surge into this part of town, as locals love to come here on the weekend in droves. It’s not just for the tourists, in fact, I would say the locals outweigh tourists three to one. But outside of the weekend, San Ángel is a tranquil oasis. And you’ll find you often have parts of the city all to yourself. But the peace means you’ll have to skip the popular pop-up art market. Either way, there are so many things to do here, no matter when you arrive. The only day I’d say to avoid is Mondays as all the museums are closed.

Parque de la Bombilla

The best place to start your tour of the neighbourhood is in San Ángel’s grandiose Parque de la Bombilla. Mexico City is, in my opinion, the best city in the world for public parks. Each of them brings a new surprise. Filled with beauty, drama and artistry. And Parque de La Bombilla is one that I feel doesn’t get its fair due. In the centre of the park is a giant monument to Álvaro Obregón. Álvaro Obregón was the 46th president of Mexico, inaugurated in 1920. Sadly, Obregón was assassinated in 1928 inside La Bombilla restaurant, which once stood on this very spot. After his death, the restaurant was demolished to make room for a park built in his honour. The park’s unveiling took place in 1935, on the seventh anniversary of Obregón’s assassination.

The Obregón monument dominates the park. Towering over you like a lighthouse, drawing you in. A huge reflecting pool sits just in front, allowing the sun to cast its reflection down into the water, creating a mirror-like surface. In addition to the central monument, the park also boasts seven beautiful fountains, artistic garden beds and even various chess and checkers tables awaiting their daily players.

Socialist style architecture

The Obregón Monument is a socialist-style tower. Socialist-style architecture became somewhat of a trend in Mexico City in the early 20th century. Mexico was encouraged by the Russian Revolution of 1917. They admired how the shift was leaning towards the boots on the ground workers and peasants while rejecting the bourgeoisie and upper classes. As such, they were inspired by the architecture of the Soviet Union under the leadership of Joseph Stalin. The style is characterized by rigid, geometric shapes, sturdy columns and giant statues. Often built to commemorate great leaders of the country.

Obregón Monument

The Obregón Monument greets you with two statues, guarding either side of the giant steel doorway. These are the indigenous protectors, representing “Work” and “Fertility.” The monument’s centre features a large stairwell that climbs to the top of the tower. Inside was once the resting place of Obregón’s embalmed arm. The arm was since moved, but today, a marble copy stands in its place.

On either side of the monument, are two groups of sculptures. One represents the Allegory of the Sacrifice, the other the Allegory of Triumph; two defining characteristics of Obregón’s presidency. On the back of the memorial is the sculpture of the great Eagle of Mexico City. Its wings spread in front of a series of geometric Saguaro cacti.

Restaurante El Cardenal

Hopefully, the bright colours of the park have woken you up a bit and now it’s time for breakfast! Take a stroll up along Avenue de la Paz. This street leads you right into the historic heart of San Ángel. Here you’ll shortly arrive at our breakfast spot, Restaurante El Cardenal. Restaurante El Cardenal is an institution in Mexico City with multiple different locations. The San Ángel location is their newest expansion, opening in 2011. But it quickly became the go-to destination on Saturday and Sunday mornings.

El Cardenal History

El Cardenal was founded in 1969, the original location was just across the street from the Plaza de la Constitución. The founders were a large family who wanted to bring their love of traditional Mexican cuisine to an upscale setting. They saw that many households didn’t have time to make classic home-cooked dishes. But here in El Cardenal you can come and feel like you’re dining at your mother’s table.

One of the most luxurious parts of dining inside El Cardenal in San Ángel is the gorgeous architecture. The restaurant is set inside an old colonial mansion. The building was actually previous another restaurant but when it closed the house lay dormant for years. When El Cardenal bought the property they took great pains to restore the details of the home to their former glory. The stained glass windows and gleaming wood floors make just sitting inside such a joy to experience. The back of the restaurant features a glass window box that looks into the kitchen, so you can watch the chefs hard at work!

The El Cardenal Experience

Their breakfasts are among the most popular seatings, with wait times up to 40 minutes depending on the day. So the earlier you arrive, the better. This is because huge families come here all together on the weekend for a cheerful family brunch. Despite the wait, this amazing familial atmosphere is what makes this restaurant so special. Walking inside, we were treated like absolute royalty. White-shirt waiters greeted us and catered to our every need. It felt like we were dining at a Michelin star restaurant but at a fraction of the cost! 

The Food

To start the perfect breakfast, begin with hot chocolate, not coffee! Their unique hot chocolate is made with famous Doña Oliva chocolate and is like drinking a cup of history. Hot chocolate originated in Mexico and was an essential part of the Aztec culture from 1400 AD.

My favourite part about the experience of eating here was the pastry tray. When you come inside a waiter brings you over an enormous tray of sweet pastries. And you can choose, with your own eyes, which pastry you’d want to start off the meal right with. I went with the concha as I feel like it’s the perfect pairing with a hot chocolate.

Another traditional breakfast dish you’ll only find in Mexico is the Egg omelette with escamoles. Escamoles are colloquially called “Mexican caviar,” and are edible ant larvae. Escamoles have been consumed in Mexico since the age of the Aztecs and are high in nutritional value. It’s definitely one of the most unique and classic dishes on the menu. But if that’s not your thing they have many other traditional options for those who aren’t that adventurous.

While you might take a look at this elegant restaurant would be pretty pricey, El Cardenal is such a good value. They really price themselves as a family restaurant. Although there were some tourists here it was clear that most people gather here every week. And with food as good and cheap as this, I know why they do!

Mercado De Flores

To work off some of the big breakfast, walk down the street and turn north up Avenue Revolución towards the famous San Ángel Flower Market. This market dates back to the time of the Carmelite friars. When they lived in the area, their church was surrounded by extensive gardens. Here they grew fruit trees and flowers in large quantities.

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Walking up to the market, you can spot it from down the street, not only by the iconic white awnings but also by the brightly painted murals along the exterior. Public murals like this were famous in markets like this around Mexico City. Vendors are packed tightly along the thin strip of the sidewalk facing the Avenida Revolucion. In their white plastic buckets are a wide array of vibrant flowers for locals to bring home to their sweethearts with a smile.

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Templo del Carmen de San Ángel

After peaking around at the flowers in the market, head back south along Avenue Revolución. Crossing Avenue de la Paz, lead yourself towards the large domes that dominate the skyline guiding you into the old Carmelite Church of San Ángel. 

Courtyard

While most people go directly to the Museum of El Carmen, checking out the church itself is more than worth your time. Even just walking through the old stone walls into the quaint courtyard gives you so many things to look at and ponder. The church courtyard is home to one of the most amazing jacaranda trees. Hidden behind the stone walls it feels like a treasure that we found was all to ourselves! It hangs heavy over the fountain in the centre of the stone yard. Its branches also frame the gorgeous tiled domes off in the background.

History of the St. Carmen Church of San Ángel

The church was originally built in 1615 by the Carmelite friar Andrés de San Miguel. It took over 10 years to complete, and when it opened it housed the order of the Barefoot Carmelites. It was originally opened as a monastery but they also built a college nearby. Here they welcomed theology students and new priests of the order. The church flourished for years and its orchards formed the bedrock of the colonial we find today. Bringing both money and interest to this part of town.

After the Mexican Reformation War of 1858, the new secular governmental powers closed down many Catholic churches and schools. The area around San Ángel was occupied by US troops who sadly destroyed many parts of the old buildings. As well as looting many of the church’s precious assets. They even went so far as to destroy the beloved orchards.

The old school building went on to serve as a prison, barracks and even the location of the local town council. Eventually, in 1921, the church school was transformed into a museum. It was here they sought to preserve the history of the building, the treasure found hidden within and the stories from the neighbourhood’s past. But the actual church itself has stood here, in almost the exact same state, for hundreds of years. And walking inside feels like stepping back in time.

Architecture

The design of the church was made in Herrerian style. Herrerian style rose in popularity in Spain during the 16th century and came to Mexico City with the Spanish colonizers. The style features a more restrained use of ornamentation compared to other baroque styles of the time. The shape of the building is designed to spread horizontally and symmetrically. And yet unlike many other Herrerian buildings which have flat or plain roofs, the St. Carmen de San Ángel church features three incredible tiled domes. Brilliant blue and yellow-painted tiles from Puebla still glisten in the sunlight although much of the roofs have fallen into disrepair over the ages.

Walking into the church, the restrained architecture that surrounds you highlights the incredible golden altar. Light frames the altar from either side creating the most ethereal glow. While the rest of the building might be simpler in design, the altarpiece is pure baroque. Drama, glamour and gilding are everything that the baroque era brought and we can see it here in leaps and spurts!

One of my favourite parts about the churches in Mexico is the tile work. Every little side chapel or tiny niche is given the royal treatment by plastering them with gorgeous tiles. These minature tiles look like shining gems when the sunlight hits them just right. While some are just decorative others are painted to tell stories about the saints in whose chapels they sit. These tiles truly make Mexican churches feel so unique and gives you a sense of place when visiting.

Museo de El Carmen

Just outside the entrance to the church, you can find the Museo de El Carmen. The old monastery school and cloisters were transformed into a museum in the 1920s. Inside, the museum houses various objects that detail the history of the Carmelite order. When you enter through the lower cloisters you’re greeted by a small series of panels detailing the complete history of the convent and school. Throughout the rest of the museum, these histories are brought to life through a series of paintings, documents, sculptures and even the furniture which was used inside the monastery.

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As well as detailing life in the monastery, these historical paintings also depict what life was like in San Ángel in the 18th and 19th centuries. It features an amazing collection of Colonial religious art. The baroque artist Cristóbal de Villalpando has many paintings here on display. He is most famous for his painting which now hangs in the Metropolitan Cathedral. But inside this more intimate museum, you can view his pieces close up and see them in a more personal light.

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The Crypt

One of the most interesting, or for some, macabre parts of the museum is the old crypts. When the monastery was a working church, many people would pay to be buried in such a holy place. These were both members of the Carmelite Order as well as wealthy benefactors.

But over the years, and after the fall of the religious institutions, many of these bodies were forgotten. Only in the 20th century were they uncovered during the monastery’s restoration. The bodies left here were miraculously preserved because of the rich soil by which they were surrounded. They were essentially mummified. With no one to claim the bodies, the museum decided to leave them where they rested, and now visitors can give view their wrinkled flesh up close and personal. Preserved for the ages inside their velvet-lined wooden and glass caskets.

Hours & Admission: 52 pesos | Free on Sundays, closed on Mondays

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Plaza del Carmen

Head back to the main intersection at Madero and the Avenue de la Revolution to cross over to Plaza del Carmen. The brilliant-coloured buildings that surround the square blend in amongst the vibrant flowers in the garden beds in the middle of the plaza. While the Plaza de Jacinto might be the larger and most popular square in the city, Plaza del Carmen is by far my favourite. Its quaint and cramped quarters are so joyful, with locals sitting out on the benches, chatting with friends, in the early morning. Watching the artists set up their canvases as the sun rises.

San Angel Art Market

On Saturdays, this is where the start of the San Ángel art market can be found. One of the most wonderful things about the San Ángel art market is not just for tourists. Unlike some more touristy markets around the city, this market is meant for the locals. And many people come here, from far and wide, in search of the perfect art piece for their home. The atmosphere is intoxicating, everyone admiring the newest art pieces from their favourite local painters. Rainbow-coloured umbrellas dot the skyline, protecting fresh paint from the harsh rays of the sun.

Architecture around Plaza El Carmen

Even if you don’t come on a weekend, this small Plaza is a wonder to behold. It is surrounded on all sides by incredible historical buildings, important to the neighbourhood’s history. Even in just this one square, you can get a slice of the wonderfully preserved architecture that makes this neighbourhood such a gem to visit. Examples of baroque, neoclassical and neocolonial houses can be found right here. And many have been perfectly preserved since this part of town managed to escape the urbanization of the city’s centre.

House of Chucho el Roto

To the southeast, you’ll see a brilliant yellow building with bright red trim on the corner. This is the old House of Chucho el Roto or House of The Two Courtyards. This building is a wonderful example of Mexican neoclassical styles popular during the Protofio Diaz era. The house was named because it was designed with two courtyards, a lavish expense at this time. The main courtyard was built to entertain and house splendid gardens. The secondary courtyard where the carriages and stables were placed. This allowed the home to separate the working part of the house from the relaxing retreat these country homes aimed to create.

Chucho el Roto

The house was built in the 19th century for the philanthropist Francisco de Urquiaga. A popular legend about this home states that it was the hiding place for the famous bandit Jesús Arriaga. Arriaga was also nicknamed “Chucho el Roto,” hence the other name for the house. Arriaga was somewhat of a Robin Hood-type character, robbing from the wealthy and giving to the poor. This house was reported to be connected to the underground tunnels built by the Dominicans. The tunnels could be accessed through the basement and led to the nearby Plaza San Jacinto. Making it a perfect getaway for a legendary bandit.

Sadly, Arriaga was eventually captured and died in prison. But his legend lived on long past his death. And fictional stories became even more popular after his passing. Today it houses the Library of the Revolutions of Mexico. Very apt, considering it was the hideout of this legendary anti-establishment character who would have been a staunch supporter of the revolutions.

Mercado del Carmen

On the north side of the Plaza sits the popular Mercado del Carmen. This hip communal-style eatery and art gallery are housed in an old mansion dating back to the 18th century. It was also used as an English school for the upper classes of San Agnel during the 1960s and 70s. The gorgeous blue of the house blends in almost perfectly with the sky on a clear day, making it feel at one with heaven above.

Casa del Mayorazgo de Fagoaga

On the northwest corner of the plaza, along Calle de la Amargura is the Casa del Mayorazgo de Fagoaga. The brilliant burnt orange exteriors and 18-century facade welcome you onto one of the most luxurious streets in the city. It was designed in the neoclassical style with baroque-style balconies.

The home was originally built for Francisco de Fagoaga, the head of a powerful silver and gold merchant. His family was one of the first to start the trend of moving their mansions out of the central city and into the countryside. His house set the tone for other wealthy haciendas built in the era and unsurprisingly lots of future houses follow the same template. It was truly a trendsetter. The orange contrasts so well with the dense green foliage and pink flowers that bloom across the facade.

Bishop’s House 

Continue along Calle de la Amargura towards the end of the street, blocked by the corner of the old Bishop of Tenagra’s mansion. Joaquín Fernández de Madrid y Canal served as the Bishop’s adobe here in San Ángel. A Bishop was a highly regarded figure in the community. As such, the friars wanted to build a house that would impress! His house was built in 1631 (!) and is one of the best-preserved pieces of history in San Ángel. Long after the revolution, the house still stood as a well sought-after real estate piece. It was home to various famous Mexican like poet José Zorrilla, historian José María Agreda and politician and general Antonio López de Santa Anna. Today, the house serves as an art gallery hosting rotating exhibitions featuring incredible Mexican artists.

Plaza San Jacinto

Turn south past the Plaza Tenanitla (dedicated to the original name of the colonial) and make your way into the grand Plaza San Jacinto. The Plaza was named the Church of San Jacinto, located just on the west side of the square. But we’ll learn more about the church later when you go inside. The little town square popped up here as it was surrounded on all sides by the church, convent and orphanage. It quickly became the heart of the community in the 18th century and continues on as such today!

 St. Patrick Battalion

On the far west side of the Plaza, on the wall opposite, you’ll see a large plaque dedicated to the St. Patrick Battalion. “Why is there a dedication to Irish soldiers in Mexico City?” you might be wondering. In 1847, during the Mexican War for independence, Irish, German and even American immigrants came over to Mexico. They wanted to help fight for Mexico’s freedom, against the United States. The battalion was one of the fiercest and responsible for a huge majority of the deaths on the American side. So when they were caught, their punishments were brutal. They were executed right here in San Jacinto square, in front of the famous church. But their legend lives in on this plaque stands in their honour. The memory of their fighting vigour an inspiration to others who would continue the fight and win the freedom of the nation.

Diego Rivera

Make your way to the centre of the Plaza and look across the elegant central fountain. There, you will see a bronze easel with the burst of Diego Rivera emblazoned into the cartouche. As Rivera was a resident of the San Angel for many years, local artists inspired by Rivera wanted to commemorate him for generations to come. There is something wonderful about Rivera’s face looking over at the artists in the square selling their works in the square. Continuing his passion for supporting Mexican artists, even from the great beyond.

Saturday Art Market

By far the most popular thing to see in the square is to peruse the incredible Saturday Art Market. The market was established here in the 1960s. Interestingly enough, the origins of the market were due to an American, Jim Tillet, who had moved to Mexico City. He brought the concept of a weekly artisan fair to Mexico City, and the idea immediately took off. The art is both meant for the locals to enjoy as well as the tourists, highlighting the beauty of the Mexican landscape and vibrant culture. There were so many amazing artists of all different styles and mediums. My favourites were the ones that were designed to look like Lotería cards.

In addition to paintings, this Plaza is also home to craftspeople. Here you can find artisan pottery, textiles and even clothing. While some of it is a bit touristy things there are also really unique designers and artists. Prices tend to be a little more expensive here in San Angel but the quality is there to match.

There are often musicians strolling around through the market, entertaining the crowds and creating a more inviting and charming atmosphere. Street food vendors pop up selling sweet treats and salty snacks to satisfy your cravings. Art hunting is hungry work!

Handicraft Shops

If you opt to visit San Angel outside of the weekend, you can still find lots of different handicraft shops open around the square throughout the week. Shops like the Bazar San Ángel, María Bonita and Local México all sell gorgeous handmade decor and art pieces for your home. The spirit of the art market lives on long past the weekend so don’t feel like you’ll have missed it all if you can only visit during the week.

Museo Casa del Risco

On the north side of the Plaza Jacinto, hidden behind the opulent trees, is an old terra-cotta-coloured building with ‘Museo Casa del Risco‘ emblazoned in brass along the fence. Inside you’ll find an old residence dating back to the 17th-century that has since been transformed into a museum. The museum recreates the look of a traditional San Angel house as it would have looked in the 18th century. Casa del Risco has a fascinating history as it served as a residence, a military barracks and a hospital.

Fuente del Risco

The house’s main feature that people come to see is the great porcelain fountain. The fountain, or “Fuente del Risco,” is located inside the main central courtyard. It was made in the late 18th century in the opulent Baroque or “ultra baroque” style popular in Mexico City during that period.

While it looks like it is merely decorative, the fountain’s design was actually an ingenious way to preserve broken porcelain. Back then, painted porcelains were extremely expensive and yet, just like today, accidents happen and you might end up breaking a plate that costs more than a used car does today. Turning them into an art sculpture like this was a way to preserve and display even the broken pieces.

Embedded within the fountain you can spot Chinese blue and white porcelain, plates from the Ming Dynasty, green porcelain from Japan, Spanish Talavera ceramics and, of course, the homegrown ceramics of Puebla. Entire bowls, plates, cups and sauces are also scattered together with broken pieces of pottery to create this magical-looking fountain. The niches are designed to look like pearlescent shells and conches and the piece is dotted with mermaid sculptures. Even here in the hill of San Angel do we find people dreaming of the ocean.

There is so much else to see inside the museum, from Baroque art, religious sculptures, antique stained glass and recreations of 18th-century living space. But if all you want to see is the fountains, it’s easy to do so as admission to the museum is free.

Admission: Free | Open Tuesday-Sunday 10 am – 5 pm

Antiques Fair

On the weekends, just outside the museum, you’ll find high-end vintage and antique sellers bringing out their wares. This was almost as incredible as the museum itself, it felt like just outside you could literally buy items you’d just seen inside the museum. Paintings from the 19th century, religious objects and gorgeous pieces of antique jewellery. The prices are pretty high but even I was almost swayed into buying a locket from 1898! There are some real treasures so if you have the money to spend you’ll discover some amazing pieces in this marketplace.

Bazaar Sábado

If you don’t like sifting through the pop-up stands outside in the plaza, you can head into the Bazaar Sábado. The Bazaar Sábado is located inside a 17th-century red-painted mansion and dates back to the 1960s. Here you can find the giant home filled with over 100 permanent artisan shops selling everything from textiles to jewellery, ceramics and metalwork. Many of these craftspeople are award winners, so their prices are going to reflect that status, but the work is unparalleled. Personally, I prefer the stuff found on the street, but if you’re looking for something more upmarket, this is the place for you.

Inside the central open-air courtyard is a wonderful eatery serving up traditional breakfast and lunch street food. It can get pretty busy right at 12 pm but if you prefer to eat a bit early or late you’ll find more tables open. The food here is wonderful and a great place to try some amazing street food like Tlacoyos, quesadillas and gorditas.

Villa San Jacinto

If the Bazaar Sabado courtyard is too busy you can hop across the Plaza and make your way to the stunning courtyards of the Villa San Jacinto. This 19th-century house has been preserved and transformed to be enjoyed by present-day visitors. The Cafe de las Artes is a gorgeous little eatery inspired by the architecture of the Porfiriato era. Walking up the stairs, you are greeted by this incredible grisaille style stained glass window, bohemian lamps and the Catalan vaults.

You can also study the amazing remodelled garden filled with beautiful sculptures. The cafe sells lots of different drinks and has homemade desserts and sandwiches if you’re feeling a bit peckish. Sitting outside you can get pretty hot but is a beautiful place to admire the rotating selection of art work on display.

Parroquia San Jacinto

Heading back onto Calle Benito Juárez, walk just a few meters where you’ll find an unassuming set of stairs which leads you into the green oasis outside of the Parroquia San Jacinto. The Parroquia San Jacinto or San Jacinto Parish was founded by the Dominicans in 1564. The Dominican order had discovered a small waterfall nearby and utilized the water to power their spinning and weaving equipment. This allowed them to produce lots of different kinds of textiles. They sold them off and used the funds to fund the building of the church and the plush gardens.

Walking inside the church, the thing that immediately catches your eyes is the ornate churrigueresco-style altar. The rest of the interior of the church is pretty austere but there is something so charming about the simplicity. Be sure to poke your head around the cloisters inside the church. This is the perfect place to escape the sun for a minute and walk through the shaded walkways and central fountain.

The Garden

The contrast between the rather subdued building and the incredibly bright colours of the gardens is a wonderful pairing. In the centre of the garden is a fountain with a huge cross in the centre. This was the first cross ever carved in Mexico. Looking closely at it you can see elements from both the Christian and Pagan faiths.

Surrounding the church are cedars, eucalyptus and pine trees. I always feel like this little hidden away yard is most reminiscent of the old orchards of San Angel.

Plaza de Los Cielos

Walking back outside, take a stroll down the Calle Benito Juárez towards the Plaza de los Cielos. This little corner is a gem of the colonial-era architecture that remains in this neighbourhood. Beautifully decorated in ancient jacaranda and vibrant bougainvilleas pour over the stone walls. The little Plaza de Los Cielos is surrounded on the two sides by the old walls of the former monastery.

Plaza de los Arcángeles

Continue north along Árbol street, turning left on Segunda Cda. de Frontera, where you’ll discover one of the most peaceful yet stunning streets anywhere in Mexico City. The walls here are covered in foliages, and when they bloom in bright purple and blue, it feels like walking through a tunnel of flowers.

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At the end of the street, you’ll find the secret Plaza de Los Arcángeles. A nook tucked into the neighbourhood’s corner features a series of benches under a series of stone arches. In the centre of the small gardenette is a shrine to the Virgin of Guadalupe tucked inside the hole of a tree. The name of the Plaza comes from three large sandstone benches named after the Archangels; Gabriel, Rafael and Michael. It’s a fantastically peaceful place and well worth the three-minute detour!

Casa de Los Marqueses de Selva Nevada

Walk back up Arbol and west along with Calle Hidalgo. On the northwest corner is one of the more historic homes of San Angel. Casa de los marqueses de Selva Nevada was owned by Ana Ortiz de Móxica in the end of the 18th century. It would later go on to the owned by María Josefa Rodríguez de Pinillos, the ambassador of Austria-Hungary in Mexico. Maria is responsible for the majority of the renovations we can see today. One of the most impressive parts of the building is the gorgeous wooden gates set between the beautiful white painted trim and ochre-coloured exterior. The door was designed with traditional elements of Mudejar decoration.

Casa Blanca

Continue along the Calle Hidalgo until you reach the large white house at #43. This is called the Casa Blanca, or “white house,” a 17th-century hacienda owned by the Oploca counts. Look closely at the coat of arms above the door to see the design of this family’s old shield. During its life in San Angel, the house was once home to the second-largest orchard in the neighbourhood. All hidden away behind the beautiful parapets of the white house. A small plaque on the front of the house honoured it as a place of historical significance. During the Second Franco-Mexican War, this house served as a bunker for French and American soldiers.

Legen of the Casa Blanca

But the most significant thing about this house is the legend that goes along with it. If you walk slightly further away from the front door, you’ll see a large wrought iron balcony towards the back of the house. The story goes that the woman who once lived here had the love of her life go off to war. She watched him leave from this balcony and would return to it every day, waiting for his return. But he never would come home, and she died an old woman, standing on the balcony, heartbroken. Eternally waiting for her true love to come home. Her ghost is said to still haunt the upper balcony so keep your eyes peeled for her wailing cries.

Licenciado | Leandro Valle

Continue down Hidalgo until you reach Licenciado street and walk north. This is another fantastic example of just how amazing even the ordinary homes in this neighbourhood are. Walls are dripping in ivy and each new facade is painted in a different vibrant colour. Rich wooden doorways and fantastical wrought iron gates protect entry from the street into the secretive homes inside.

Although there might not be any specific historical sights here, these are the streets that make visiting a neighbourhood like San Angel so worth it! The road curves to the right and turns into Leandro Valle. Eventually, popping you outright outside Avenue Altavista. Bringin you to the front steps of the famous Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo.

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo

Standing from across the street is the best way to introduce yourself to this famous home. You can see the red and white building on the right, which served as Diego Rivera‘s studio contrasted by the bright periwinkle painted studio for Frida Kahlo. The two homes are connected via the large walkway on the top floor. The entire design of the homes is symbolic of their love. Two very different artists and lovers that are yet forever connected. This was Rivera’s dream home that he had commissioned by architect and friend Juan O’Gorman. O’Gorman is well known for many different famous buildings in Mexico City including the incredible designs inside the UNAM campus.

The museum leads you through both houses to see their studios, living spaces and a gorgeous rooftop view across the neighbourhood of San Angel. To get a complete guided tour of the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo you can read our full guide here.

San Angel Inn

To end your day in San Angel, head back across the street and to the historic San Angel Inn. In my honest opinion, the food isn’t the best here. It was probably one of the most disappointing meals I’ve had in Mexico City. And for what you get, it’s overpriced. But that being said, nothing can compete with this restaurant’s history, decor, and architecture.

My recommendation is to arrive before or after their lunch or dinner rush. And opt for only a drink and perhaps a dessert or snack. This way you can still enjoy the incredible environments but don’t need to worry about spending too much on subpar food. Plus, our margaritas were some of the best we’ve ever had so there are some definite gems to be found!

History

The best way to describe this place is an institution. The building itself dates back to 1616! It was originally the Our Lady of Santa Ana Monastery, built by Hernando Aragonés. Surrounding the monastery was a series of superb orchards and rich agave gardens. They produced a large amount of pulque here over the years, an iconic drink found only in Mexico. Despite changing hands many times over the years, much of the original gardens have been preserved to enjoy today.

History of San Angel Inn

In 1777, the old monastery was purchased by Ramon Goicoechea, who converted it into his family mansion. The hotel was also owned by musician Carlos Prieto who hosted classical music concerts inside. Even today, this tradition continues with live music played throughout the restaurant. Many years later, in 1908, the property was transformed into a large hotel and restaurant. The new owners sold off the excess land, which turned into the neighbourhood of Altavista. The huge mansion was divided up to make all different spaces, from guest rooms to the various restaurants and event spaces we can visit today.

Walking through the hallways, courtyards, and different rooms feels like being inside a living museum. The walls are covered in artworks collected by all the different owners who called this place home over the years. Famously, this restaurant was so popular that it was even notable for hosting various Mexican revolutionaries from Emiliano Zapata to Pancho Villa and Zapata. They were even seen singing a unity pact right here in the restaurant!

This brings us to the end of this incredible tour of San Angel. I hope you’ve enjoyed the sights we’ve seen along the way. Let me know in the comments which stop was your favourite or other treasures you’ve discovered along the way!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Guide to the Artistic and Creative Corners of San Angel, Mexico City Walking Tour first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Truthful, this isn’t my favourite part of town. I’m not a luxury gal, I’m definitely more hipster than heiress. But after avoiding the area I finally made the effort to check it out and was amazed at what I found! There are some really incredible gems out here if you know where to look. But even I was wrapped up in the spell that is Polanco.

Leaning in Exploring Luxury

I made it a point to check out some of the luxury shopping and suddenly I understood, at least partially, what all the fuss was about. As someone who usually just buys her perfume at Lush, I was blown away by a hedonistic shopping experience at Xinu! I even came out with my first ever luxury perfume purchase! One of the greatest parts about a trip to Mexico City is that because you’ll eat at so many low-priced restaurants, you can afford that one-time splurge. We also made a point to get reservations at Pujol. This was my first time eating at a Michelin Star restaurant. It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience and one I will never forget! 

So if you’re like me and you’re looking to check out Polanco, but step past more than just the fancy shops, come with me on our Self Guided Tour of the luscious tree-lined street of Polanco! And not to worry! Polanco has more than just 5-star restaurants. There is also plenty of cheap eats, free entertainment and incredible sights found along the way.

Table Of Contents

1. Location & Access
2. History
3. Where to Stay?
4. Walking Tour
6. Avenue Horacio
7. Plaza Uruguay
8. Av. Isaac Newton
9. Parque Lincoln
10. Tianguis Parque Lincoln
11. El Moro
12. Cafebrería El Péndulo
13. Pasaje Polanco
14. Avenida Presidente Masaryk
15. La Casa del Pastor
16. Shopping in Polanco
17. Americas Park
18. St. Augustine Parish
19. TANE Instagram Wall
20. El Turix
21. Iglesia de San Ignacio de Loyola
22. El Palacio de Hierro Polanco
23. Soumaya Museum
24. Dining in Polanco
25. Autocinema Coyote

Location & Access

Polanco is located north of Paseo de la Reforma and just south of Avenida Ejercito Nacional. To the east and west Polanco sandwiches between Avenida Mariano Escobedo and Boulevard Manuel Avila Camacho. You can always easily Uber in and out of Polanco but if you want to take the subway to Metro Polanco. The Metro Polanco station is located right beside our first stop on the tour!

History

The Name ‘Polanco’

Long before the Spanish arrived, what is now known as “Mexico City” was first the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan. During those fertile years, a great river passed through what is now Avenue Campos Elisios in Polanco. In the 16th century, after the conquest, the land here was gifted to Hernán Cortés by the King of Spain. Cortes took control and named the river after the Spanish Jesuit Juan Alfonso de Polanco. The Polanco family were considered almost royalty and were highly regarded members of the board of King of Spain. A majority of the family members travelled to Mexico City as newly created “officers of the Crown”. This is where we get the name of the neighbourhood today. Sadly, the river was lost when the Spanish drained the valley to make more room for expansion. But the name lives on.

Polanco Farms

As time went on, the land became occupied by farmers. It was primarily used to plant mulberry trees and breed silkworms. The 16th-century Hacienda de Los Morales, one of the largest Polanco farmsteads, was established. We can even visit the old homestead today as it is still standing on the neighbourhood’s west side. It is now occupied by an incredible restaurant where you can dine inside a piece of history.

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20th Century

The area really only came into being as we know it today in the 1930s. The rural farmland was redeveloped by the enterprising Aleman family. They foresaw the need for further residential expansion in the city. Soon, Polanco was covered in large mansions with pristine tree-lined streets.

During this time, various foreign communities also began migrating to this area of town. As it was brand new they were able to establish little community circles, Even today you can find vibrant Jewish, Spanish, German and Lebanese pockets inside Polanco. Polanco is where the majority of the city’s working synagogues can still be found.

Spanish Revival Polanco

The most popular architectural style for these new mansions was Californian colonial or Spanish Revival style. These houses are easily identifiable by their curved arches, white stucco walls, terracotta roof tiles, wrought iron work railings and window grilles, and fantastical courtyards with expansive arcades. You’ll see many examples of this along Campos Elíseos, Avenida Jules Verne and Champs Elysées.

Introduction of Modernism

Later on in the 1950s, we saw the explosion of functionalist style defined by functional building materials and low levels of ornamentations. Many buildings are nothing more than concrete slabs, steel sheets, and exposed wood beams. We can see examples of this with buildings like the National Conservatory of Music, the Franco-Mexican Lyceum, and the Spanish Hospital.

The Population Boom

The boom of population expansion in Polanco didn’t occur until after the 1960s. After the previously elite neighbourhoods of Roma and Condesa began to open up to lower-class families with the introduction of rent-controlled apartments, the upper class of those barrios were looking for greener pastures. Although there was still some free real estate, the solution to the large influx of people was to introduction luxury high-rise residential buildings. These were first introduced in the west end where large wide multi-lanes streets were built around these huge multi-storey apartments.

Mid-Century Modern

But my favourite aspect of Polanco’s architecture is the rise of mid-century design. In anticipation of the 1968 Olympics in Mexico City there were many new hotels built to accommodate the influx of visitors. During this time the cult of personalities would soon return to the streets of Polanco. Most notable is the Camino Real Polanco Hotel. This hotel became an icon of the Mexican Modernism movement. This style featured geometric shapes, bright, bold colours, sloping low-rise structures reminiscent of Aztec, pre-hispanic structures. While the Camino Real was the first of this kind of design, years later, the experimentation of Mexican Modernism would continue in buildings like the Museo Jumex, Sala de Arte Publico Siqueiros, Luis Barragán’s Casa Barragán, Juan O’Gorman’s Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo’s Studio House and the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) Campus.

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Where to Stay?

Camino Real Polanco Mexico $$

The Camino Real Polanco is a beautiful hotel/museum designed by renowned architect Ricardo Legorreta. The space opened its doors to the public on July 25th, 1968. It was famous for combining modern features with shapes reminiscent of pre-hispanic pyramids when it opened. Elements from these merge to create an architectural masterpiece! There is something so nostalgic about the 60’s decor, which is so atmospheric. Plus, as it is not a high-end luxury hotel, the rooms come at a reasonable price for the area! If you have a little more cash to spend, book one suite as the retro decor is incredible. The view out towards the best architectural features of the hotel is wonderfully highlighted.

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Orchid House Polanco $$$

Nothing feels more like Mexican royalty than a stay at the Orchid House Polanco. The Orchid House provides visitors with the exquisite feeling of being at home with the comforts of a hotel. Hidden away inside a 100-year-old mansion, the hotel is filled with blue and coloured stained glass, antique barro floors hand-painted with images of Don Quijote and Shakespeare. There are also neoclassic mouldings and rich, traditional antique pink cantera stone. Each room is exquisitely designed and features textiles and handmade decorations from local artisan communities.

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Walking Tour

To start the perfect morning in Polanco, you must head over to is owned and operated by Chef Enrique Olvera. Olvera is infamous in the Mexico City food scene as he is also the chef who put Pujol on the map! But unlike Pujol, which is hard to get reservations at and costs a pretty penny, Eno is far more accessible for the everyday traveller.

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At Eno, you can try a traditional Mexican breakfast, like a plate of the classic Chillaques Verde for only cost $7 US! Their daily selection of pan dulce (sweet bread) is incredible! At only $3 a piece, it’s worth ordering a few for the table to share.

Avenue Horacio

From here, let’s take a walk down Avenue Horacio towards our next stop. Avenue Horacio is a perfect example of residential life in Polanco. Tall and orderly, minimalist and functionalist buildings line either side of wide, tree-lined avenues. But unlike the rougher charm that avenues in Condesa or Roma have, Polanco’s avenues are pristine. American-esque evergreen trees tower over the tiled pathways.

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Plaza Uruguay

Before turning south, make a quick stop inside Plaza Uruguay. Marking the entrance to the park is a large statue of General Jose Artigas. General Jose Artigas fought in the Latin American Wars of Independence. He battled against the Spanish Empire and is considered a national treasure here in Mexico City. The park is a beautiful example of the green spaces introduced into Colonia in the 20th century. In the centre of the Plaza is a mammoth concrete sculpture. Water cascades down off the sides of the brutalist-inspired fountain which is surprisingly intriguing despite its simplistic design.

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Av. Isaac Newton

The next block over is the street named after physicist Isaac Newton. Head along this street towards the southwest. As we’ve noted before in the Historic Centre, Mexico City has an amazing collection of street names. Each neighbourhood has a different theme. In upper-class Polanco, many of the streets are named after famous authors, sciences and philosophers. You’ll find the authors like Oscar Wilde, Julio Verne, Dickens, and Hans Christian Andersen. Poets like Moliere, Tennyson, Dumas, and Edgar Allen Poe. They’ve honoured scientists like Galileo, Aristoteles and Newton all with their own streets. And finally, there are the philosophers Plato, Hegel, and Socrates.

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Parque Lincoln

Av. Isaac Newton ends at the corner of the great Parque Lincoln. While many large mansions in Polanco already had private gardens, Parque Lincoln was the first public park. This allowed all residents to feel at ease outside.

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Although naming the park after an American president might seem odd, Lincoln was very well-loved by Mexicans. Lincoln opposed the US invasion of Mexico during the 1840s and from that moment won over the Mexicans. The large statue of Lincoln, made by Augustus Saint-Gaudens, stands in the park’s center. It was a gift to the city of Mexico by US president Lyndon B. Johnson when he visited Mexico City in 1966.

The park was inaugurated in 1938 by President Lázaro Cárdenas. Back then it was called Parque de Polanco or Parque del Palomar. A Polmar is a “dovecote” or house for pigeons or doves. Originally, the famous Parque Lincoln Clock Tower was a simple dovecote where the city’s dove population would come to roost.

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Tianguis Parque Lincoln

If you find yourself in town on a Saturday, you’ll find the park awash with fuschia-coloured tarps. These can be spotted a mile away and mark the Tianguis Parque Lincoln or Lincoln Park flea market. Everything from flowers to ceramics and handicrafts can be found here! Everything from quesadillas, sopes, gorditas, pozole, carnitas, chilaquiles, fresh fruit and more can all be found here under the tents. The neighbourhood is a bit more upmarket, so while the food and goods aren’t as cheap as elsewhere the quality is also higher.

Sculptures

In addition to the statue of Lincoln, the park is filled with incredible sculptures. These outdoor works of art feature famous activists like Nelson Mandela and Martin Luther King Jr. Other sculptures are much more subjective and ask the viewer to interpret. My favourite is the woman intertwined in a root swirling around a city. Each tendril burst out of the ground.

Aviary

Hidden away inside the park, inside a beehive-shaped building, is the Parque Lincoln Aviary. The Aviary was originally built in 1938. Although it closed down for almost four decades, it has since come back into fashion. Entry inside is only $10 pesos (US 50 cents)! If you have kids, this is a great option to entertain them. Inside you’ll find over 20 different species of birds. There are peacocks, parakeets, sparrows, pigeons and, of course, even parrots—all leaving in harmony.

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Nelson Mandela Cultural Space

Across from the Aviary, you’ll see another white stucco building, this is the Nelson Mandela Cultural Space. Inside, music and dance classes are offered to people of all ages. Stop outside the windows to see if you can hear any guitars or violins being played. Listen carefully as you walk by as on quiet days the music echoes throughout the park.

Clock Tower

One of the most iconic images of Parque Lincoln is the clock tower that rises out above the trees. The Torre del Reloj or Clock Tower today is used as a public art gallery. But it is only open when they have a current exhibition on or not. Worth poking your head inside just to see.

Across the street, make a brief stop to see the incredible home at the intersection of Luis Urbina and Alejandro Dumas. Here you’ll find one of the finest examples of Colonial Californian design. The house was built for the lottery magnate Elias Henaine and designed by architect Eduardo Fuhrken Meneses. So many of these “Mexican” looking buildings were made for immigrants. Helaine, who was Lebanese, request this type of style as a means to “fit in” to her new home country.

Park of Mirrors

Another nickname for Parque Lincoln is “Park of Mirrors.” The names comes from the two famous reflecting pools on either side of Calle Julio Verne. Especially on the weekends, these reflecting pools are a popular spot where you’ll find model ship collectors. They come from all over to place their boats in the water for the viewing pleasure of the surrounding public.

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El Moro

Head north along with Calle Julio Verne. These three little islands across from the park, where traffic swerves around, are home to some of the chicest cafes and restaurants in Polanco. And many of them are pretty well priced for such a high-end area. Boicot Café is my fave coffee chain in CDMX and worth checking out if you need a caffeine pick me up! But the main reason to make your way around the central circuit is to check out the Polanco branch of Churrería El Moro.

The original Churrería El Moro, in the Centro Histórico, is the oldest churro restaurant in Mexico City, established in 1935. A Spanish immigrant was shocked upon moving to Mexico City that there weren’t any churro shops in town. So he started his own little churro cart he wheeled around. The treat caught on immediately and it didn’t take long for him to buy a permanent location where he opened his first shop. Since then the company has only grown with locations all over Mexico City.

Hot Chocolate Dip

The only way to eat a churro from El Moro is with a cup of hot chocolate. You take that hot piece of fried cinnamon dough and dip it right into the hot cocoa. El Moro has four types of hot chocolates; Mexican (traditional and light ), French (with vanilla), Spanish (sweet and thick) and Special (bitter). On the other hand, hot chocolate is as old as Mexico itself. The drinking of chocolate can be traced back to Aztec times and was often referred to as “the drink of the gods.” The churro and hot chocolate as the culinary interpretation of the blending of these two cultures.

Cafebrería El Péndulo

Make a quick detour east along Calle Virgilio and up Calle Alejandro Dumas towards the Polanco branch of Cafebrería El Péndulo. Cafebrería El Péndulo is my favourite book store chain in Mexico City. They have locations in Condesa, Roma and San Angel. If you spot one, you know this is a great place to rest your feet. There is no disputing that their Polanco location is the absolute penultimate in architecture and design. This store is famous for being one of the most popular Instagram locations in the city.

The towering bookshelves are framed by these long-hanging plants. Making you feel like you’ve entered a greenhouse that is growing books. The swirling wooden staircase with bright teal banisters frames the entire bookshop. The entire place just feels cozy, modern and vibrant all at once. The roof of the building is made of semi-opaque glass. This allows natural light to pour into the main gallery creating the ideal space for reading.

Cafeteria

The reason these stores are called “Cafebrerías,” is that each one comes complete with a small cafe. Couches and chairs dot the entire second floor where you can sit for hours, enjoying watching people peruse the book selection while enjoying a lovely coffee. I often Uber up to Polanco just to sit and enjoy a coffee inside El Péndulo. They have a great selection of English books. Therefore, I am never strong enough not to leave without a new book in hand. Something always calls my name.

Pasaje Polanco

Jump back across the street and pop and enter into the Pasaje Polanco. The Pasaje Polanco, originally named the Pasaje Comercial, is an open-air shopping centre. The ground floor is littered with chic tiendas (boutiques) and above this, there are residential apartments. Even if you have no interest in shopping, this building is an architectural wonder. It’s stunning but has a surprisingly complicated history.

Colonial Californian Architecture

The complex was opened in 1939 and designed by Francisco J. Serrano in what we now call Colonial Californian style. Serrano was the first to define the Colonial Californian architectural style. He frequently travelled to Los Angeles to purchase films for a movie theatre he owned in Mexico. Everywhere he looked in Los Angeles, he saw a style called Spanish Colonial Revival. This style featured red-tiled roofs, arched passageways, iron-grille windows, Talavera tiles, and white stucco. But anyone looking at this can clearly see the Mexican influence. But by referring to it as “Spanish,” it held a more European cache to Americans who looked down on Mexico. Calling it Spanish Colonial design erased the true influence that Mexican art and architecture always held in America. 

This style would define the Californian architecture of the 1920s. It was so popular that a few years later, it was adopted here in Mexico City. But instead of drawing from their history, they took on the naming convention of ‘Colonial Californian’ architecture. And continued to be inspired by the more watered-down version of their past. The blueprint of these Californian buildings was fairly standardized. They consisted of the elements mentioned above and also featured a large interior courtyard. This courtyard was where shops would be installed on the ground level. While above, apartments would be built that would look out onto the semi-private courtyard below. Today, everyone has to admit the architecture is absolutely beautiful. But it’s a fascinating history to see how Mexican designs became Americanized. And then returned back to Mexico but as a shadow of their former self.

Avenida Presidente Masaryk

Exit visa Avenida Presidente Masaryk and make sure to take a second look back at the facade of the Pasaje Polanco as it’s truly spectacular from this vantage point. Avenida Presidente Masaryk is home to some of the country’s most prestigious and expensive restaurants and boutiques. It is considered the most exclusive avenue in Latin America, the Mexican version of ‘Rodeo Drive‘.

The Avenida Presidente Masaryk, is named after a Czech president Tomáš Masaryk. Tomáš Masaryk was the first president of Czechoslovakia when it became an independent country. Mexicans deeply revered countries that became independent as they themselves know the power that comes with independence. But the other reason Presidente Masaryk is admired in Polanco is due to the large Jewish community that lived here. Masaryk was a staunch defender of the Jewish people in Czechoslovakia. A statue of President Masaryk was donated by Prague in 2000 and installed along the street bearing his name. The same statue can also be found outside Prague Castle. Linking the two countries forever.

La Casa del Pastor

If you’re hungry and aren’t looking to spend a fortune, head to La Casa del Pastor. This little taco restaurant sits in one most exclusive areas in the city. And yet at around 40 pesos/taco (US $2) it’s very reasonably priced! You fill out a little paper sheet and tick off how many of each taco you’d like to get. There is such a huge selection of options here. The tacos pastor are their specialty. But you can also try Pollo (chicken), bistec (steak), Costilla (rib), lomito adobado (marinated tenderloin), chorizo, vegetarian and more! Honestly, when you see a menu this deep, you know the quality can’t be the best, but you really can’t beat the locations.

Don’t fill up too much as we’ll pass by another popular taco spot later. But in case you just want to sit and enjoy the view this place won’t break the bank! Get a spot on the patio if you can and you’ll really get your money’s worth.

Shopping in Polanco

From here, you can continue west along Av. Pdte. Masaryk where our tour continues, or you can take a break to do some shopping. I am working on the entire post of my favourite shops in Polanco that aren’t just international luxury brands. But in the meantime, if you’re looking for unique shops to check out, you can head east to Uriarte Talavera Polanco. Uriarte Talavera Polanco has some of the best ceramic tiles from Puebla, Mexico. The shop was established in 1824 and features classic designs and modern takes on the world-class pottery made in Puebla.

As mentioned before, Xinú Perfumes is the most incredible perfume shop. One of the most transformative experiences I’ve ever had. And on top of that, the staff were incredibly kind. There was no pressure to buy of the judgement of your financial status when you walked in. Something I’ve definitely experienced in high-end stores like Louis Vuitton, Cartier or Dolce & Gabbana found in Polanco. Xinú’s philosophy is that it appeals to our olfactory memory. Their perfumes were all unlike anything I had smelled before, and so rich even a tiny whiff transcended me into another realm. It’s well worth the price tag but honestly pretty reasonable when it comes to high-end perfume.

IKAL is a beautifully curated store featuring burgeoning designers’ contemporary design objects and clothes. Lots of modern and handmade pieces to be found here and even if the price tag is pretty steep, you feel inspired just browsing.

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Americas Park

If shopping isn’t your thing, head north along Alfredo de Musset towards Parque America. Parque America or American Park is a shady and vibrant park where the community comes out to play. Many people are out skateboarding, doing martial arts in the square or just relaxing with ice cream on one of the many comfortable benches. Locals mill about walking their dogs and chatting with each other about the latest gossip.

In the park, you’ll find a statue of Paul P. Harris. Harri was an American lawyer from Chicago, Illinois. He founded the club that became the humanitarian organization Rotary International in 1905. The park is another spectacular sight during the Jacaranda season which the purple trees bloom encircling the park in a colourful ring.

St. Augustine Parish

Towering above the conifer trees and leafy palms is the arched roof of the Church of San Agustín. This church is such a unique architectural wonder. It was designed by Leonardo Noriega and engineer Juan Valero Capetillo in 1949. The church’s facade features this monumental stone front. Most notable for the six hollow arches framing the pinnacle. The concave dome above the entrance to the church is adorned with reliefs. They feature images of the first seven Augustinians who arrived in America.

TANE Instagram Wall

Head back or continue to walk west along Avenida Presidente Masaryk. Here is where you can peek into the windows of some of the most expensive and exclusive stores in all of Mexico City. Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Montblanc, Rolex, Cartier and more. The windows displays here are always stupendous, so don’t be shy about taking a look. But one of the most photographed places in all of Mexico City has got to the be outside Tane. This jewellery store’s bright pink-painted facade also features a wall of fence cacti. Framed within the cacti is a vibrant neon sign which screams, “Mexico Mi Amor” or Mexico My Love. Almost everyone who passes by loves to get a snap in front of it! And honestly, who can blame them?

El Turix

Our second taco stop of the day is at El Turix. Winding down a little side street, this unassuming, practically standing-room-only restaurant is a hidden gem of the neighbourhood. El Turix specializes in cochinita pibil, a taco variation that comes from the Yucatán Peninsula. Cochinita pibil is made from a fatty slab of pork shoulder that has been slow-cooked until it just falls apart. It is marinated in achiote paste which lends a peppery flavour to the meat. The meat is also marinated with oranges to give it a sweet accompaniment to the slightly bitter achiote. Even after cooking, the pork is left to soak in the marinade juices. This gives you a slightly messy taco, but you’ll eat it up so quick you will barely notice! Tacos are only $18 pesos (less than US $1), so you can load up!

Iglesia de San Ignacio de Loyola

Head back up to Avenida Presidente Masaryk and continue north along Avenue Moliere. On the left side of the road, hidden behind a startlingly large, stark white wall, is the San Ignacio de Loyola Church. Turn just around the corner of Avenue Horacio, and suddenly the modernist church reveals itself to you. The church was completed in 1961 by famed architect Juan Sordo. Its sharp triangular structure is covered in handmade yellow ceramics. In the sunlight it shines like gold in the light of day.

If the church is open, be sure to step inside the Jesuit temple. Walking inside the incredible stained glass window bathes the atrium in rainbows of light. The metal gables that hold up the roof create this intricate web of metal above your head. It is truly one of the unique churches in the city and a little secret many people don’t even know if there.

El Palacio de Hierro Polanco

Another modernist architectural marvel of Polanco is El Palacio de Hierro. Located just across the street from the church. El Palacio de Hierro has been open since 1891, but their original flagship store is located in the Historic Centre. But their history dates back even further. In 1850 Frenchman Victor Gassier moved to Mexico City and opened Las Fábricas de Francia, or the Factories of France. The shop sold the best of french fashions imported from Europe.

El Palacio de Hierro History

Gassier joined forces with Alexander Reynaud in the 1890s to build Mexico City’s first upscale department store. They were inspired by Le Bon Marché in Paris, Saks Fifth Avenue in New York and Harrods in London. The name “El Palacio de Hierro” means the Iron Palace. It was given this nickname after opening since the department store was the first iron and steel structure to be built in Mexico City. People would pass by during its contribution in awe of the modern building materials. The company took advantage of the publicity by renaming the company El Palacio de Hierro.

The Move to Polanco

Eventually, the store outgrew its location in the Historical Centre. The company wanted to aim not only to expand but bring in more expensive stores to serve a different type of clientele. In 2016 to spent US$300 million to build the new El Palacio de Hierro here in Polanco. The shopping mall is spread out over 55,200 square metres and is the largest department store in Latin America!

Soumaya Museum

Continue north and turn west along Ejército Nacional Mexicano. This busy street is replete with Jacaranda trees come to the springtime! Turn up north along F. C. de Cuernavaca, where you have a spectacular view of the Soumaya Museum as you approach. The Museo Soumaya is one of my favourite types of museums. It is not controlled and operated by the government but instead features one man’s private collection. 

Carlos Slim Helú

Carlos Slim Helú is a Mexican telecommunications magnate. From 2010 to 2013 he was ranked by the Forbes business magazine as the richest person in the world! He is even the largest single shareholder of The New York Times. As such, the man can afford a lot of really, really high-valued art. 

Slim named the ‘Soumaya Museum‘ after his wife, Soumaya Domit, who died in 1999. Carlos wanted to share his art with the public. Instead of just keeping it to himself. The collection was so important to his wife and sharing it with the world felt like a way to keep her alive.

But Carlos wanted to give access to these incredible works of art to everyone, no matter their class or financial status. Therefore, the museum is FREE to enter. And not just on Sundays, like some of the other city museums, but EVERY DAY. 

Architecture

The museum is located inside the Plaza Carso. It is also considered one of the most attractive modern architectural structures in all of Mexico City. Designed by Mexican architect Fernando Romero but engineered by famed architect Frank Gehry. Those who know Frank Gehry‘s work, you can almost identify the building straight away. There are so many iconic elements in the design. The building seems to be twisting itself straight out of the ground. Over 16,000 hexagonal aluminum tiles were used to cover the exterior. To hold up all these tiles, an exoskeleton was built with 28 vertical curved steel columns and seven beams encircling the structure. This design was inspired by offshore oil rigs. Not surprisingly, the building cost almost $800 million to build. A testament to Slim’s enormous fortune that he could afford such a construction.

Interior

The museum contains over 66,000 pieces of art valued at over 700 million dollars! The collection features art from all different periods and artists all over the world. There are religious relics, European masters, Mexican artists, and even the largest collection of pre-Hispanic and colonial-era coins. I adore personal collections since they truly tell a story about the owner. What Slim and his wife were drawn to, what they were passionate about.

And what they wanted to see upon their walls or in their home. The collection features the largest group of sculptures by Auguste Rodin outside France. Slim’s wife loved Rodin more than any other artist, and their collection is a testament to this love.

When you enter the building, you pass through a narrow entryway into the building that soars up around you, like entering through the pin of a needle. You walk inside into this giant wide open space. Since the building has no window, you are led up to the top level in this spiral. Every one of the six different floors has a unique shape. Walking through the galleries, you almost feel like the art is closing in on you as you reach the top, where suddenly you step into this sun-drenched gallery. The rooftop is made with glass, so sunlight casts itself down into the gallery during the day.

Dining in Polanco

To end your evening in Polanco, you need to book yourself an incredible meal. Now don’t get me wrong, there are plenty of fine dining restaurants in Polanco that will be a real splurge, but you can also opt for something much more affordable if you want. You don’t need to splash out. But if you’re looking for a once-in-a-lifetime meal, this is the place to have it!

Pujol $$$$

Pujol is by far the most popular restaurant, not just in Polanco but in all of Mexico City. In 2021 it moved up to #9 on the list of the World’s Best Restaurants! Chef Enrique Olvera created Pujol in 2000 and almost right away wowed the culinary world. His aim was to showcase Mexican cusine and the country’s rich history. Reservations are tough to get, so try to plan your visit about three-four months in advance.

Pujol History

Today chef Jesús Durón has taken over for Olvera but has continued to refine the incredible flavours and come up with new culinary adventures. The menu’s aim was to take traditional dishes and transform them into the modern era. The most famous of their dishes are their Mole Madre and Mole Nuevo. ‘Mole’ comes from the Nahuatl word ‘mōlli’ meaning “sauce,” and has traditionally been used in Mexican cuisine for centuries. Pujol’s mole features a dark “mother mole” which has been aged for around 2,500 days. The mother mole is served within a ring of the “new mole” with a side of tortillas you use to taste the mole all on its own to really appreciate and experience the flavour. The traditional tasting menu costs around $2000 MXN ($100 USD) without alcohol.

Taco Omakase Meal

When we visited Pujol, we booked a seat for their taco-omakase experience. Omakase means “chef’s favourites” in Japanese and features a rotating 10-course featuring truly experimental takes on the conventional idea of a taco. The entire meal takes place inside their incredible glass dining room, which looks out to their natural gardens, where they grow many of the ingredients for the menu. The whole course was over 3-hours long and was more of an experience than a meal. Taco Omakase Menu costs around $3000 MXN per person ($147 USD) and includes alcohol pairings.

Quintonil $$$$

If you don’t manage to get reservations at Pujol, another incredible dining experience can be found at Quintonil. Quintonil was opened by Chef Jorge Vallejo, who started off at Pujol, where he made a name for himself. Quintonil takes the concept of showcasing Mexican flavours and turns the dishes on their head. Most of the ingredients on the menu are harvested literally 30 meters from where you’re sitting. They do offer a tasting menu with over 10-courses. This will cost you $3,280 MXN ($160 US) or with the alcohol pairing $5,235 MXN ($255). But if this is too expensive, you can also order from their a-la-carte menu with dishes ranging from $200-$500 pesos.

El Bajío $

If you’re still looking to enjoy a traditional Mexican meal but can’t spend upwards of $100 per person, El Bajío is a fantastic choice. El Bajío was founded in 1972 by Raúl Ramírez Degollado and Alfonso Hurtado Morellón who brought traditional Mexican cuisine from Veracruz to Mexico City. They have a huge patio and a large, airy interior decorated with traditional Mexican arts and crafts. The portions are enormous, and the atmosphere feels like dining inside a big family kitchen. Dishes here cost around $165 MXN ($9 USD). And there is even a surprisingly exciting kid menu to choose from, making it such a great place to come as a family.

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Autocinema Coyote

While many people will love to spend an evening in Polanco at chic bars like Gin Gin and Limantour Polanco, I prefer something a little different. In the north end of Polanco, behind a rather unseemly looking fence, is one of the coolest retro gems of the city; the Autocinema Coyote. Since 2011, the Autocinema Coyote has been the only drive-in movie theatre in Mexico City. But in addition to cars, there is also a little outdoor seating area where visitors without vehicles can spread out and enjoy a movie under the stars and enjoy a classic drive-in experience.

Autocinema Coyote plays everything from new releases to cult classics well into the evening. Sometimes when they show the old classics, people will show up in costumes and even perform along with the show! It’s such a great atmosphere. Check their website for the latest showings and which times are playing the films with English Audio, otherwise it’s usually dubbed in Spanish.

I hope you enjoyed this walking tour of the upscale streets of Polanco, Mexico City’s most exclusive neighbourhood. Let me know in the comments where your favourite stop was. Or if you have any particular stops you always make in this part of town!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

References

El Universal | LA Times

The post Self Guided Walking Tour of the Upscale Streets of Polanco: The City’s Most Exclusive Neighborhood first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Most people opt to go on a boat tour, and rightly so, as it is one of the most authentic ways to explore Amsterdam. But a tour on foot allows you to spend more time studying the buildings up close. This way you can get a real sense of the atmosphere and environment of different neighbourhoods spread across the city. A walking tour is a great idea as an intro to the city. You’ll get a taste and decide for yourself where you might want to return to study in greater detail. Don’t worry too much about being on the right side of the canal as we go. You can easily see these buildings from across the canal. But you can always cross over one of the many bridges in the city should you want to get a closer look.

Table Of Contents

1. How Long is the Tour?
2. Amsterdam History
3. Types of Gables
4. Walking Tour Starting Point: Brouwersgracht
5. Eenhoornsluis
6. Prinsengracht
7. Jordaan Neighbourhood
8. Keizersgracht
9. Lauriergracht
10. Beudekerbrug
11. Reguliersgracht 92
12. Magere Brug, the Skinny Bridge
13. Amstel
14. Herengracht
15. Koningssluis
16. Melkmeisjesbrug
17. Singel Canal
18. Blauwburgwal
19. The Torensluis
20. Bloemenmarkt
21. The Dancing Houses
22. Grimburgwal
23. Kloveniersburgwal
24. Oudezijds Voorburgwal
25. House at the Three Canals
26. Agnietenkapel

How Long is the Tour?

This is a full-day walking tour that takes you across the entire city! If you feel like splitting it up, feel free to customize the tour yourself! This way, you can spend some extra time in any of the museums listed. That is the joy of self-guided tours, after all. We will start our tour in the quiet northwest corner of the city in the Jordaan neighbourhood. Then we slowly make our way over to the southeast end.

Amsterdam History

Amsterdam began as a small fishing village. The village was located behind the large dam which protected the city from the overbearing Amstel River. The name “Amsterdam” comes from the location along the “Amstel” river and the “dam” which protected it. In less than 200 years, from the 16th to 18th century, the city of Amsterdam’s population exploded! It multiplied from 30,000 residence to 160,000 residents almost overnight. The city was a melting pot for immigrants from all over Europe. At the time, the Netherlands had a very tolerant climate towards refugees. With this came a massive influx of people from France, Portugal, Spain, and much of the Jewish population from Antwerp.

The Canal Expansion

Back then, Amsterdam was just this tiny island overflowing with people. The city needed to find a way to expand the city and cope with the growing population. So, the city council decided they would follow what the Italians did in Venice. They created a series of canals that spread out around the city. But unlike the winding, a spider web of canals in Venice, the design of the Amsterdam canals was very structured. They run in a half-moon shape around the bay encircling the historic medieval centre. Historians also call this the windshield wiper design.

Grachtengordel

The newly formed canal belt neighbourhood was called the Grachtengordel. “Gracht” translates to the word “canal” so literally, this was called the canal district. This new area would be designated for inhabitants. A fourth canal was added, the Singel Canal, which would be used for defence.

Building the canals was a pricey business. So the city offered wealthy merchants and bankers the opportunity to buy plots of land in these prestigious areas. This helped them secure the funds they needed to build the waterways. A portion of the outer canals was reserved for industrial use. As these factories were known for being loud and smelly the city wanted to keep them as far away from the aristocrats as possible.

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Creation of Canal House

Many of the houses you see in Amsterdam are built atop a series of wooden poles. If you were to scan a cross-section of the city, you’d see it look like a giant pin cushion. How many poles are there? Some say it’s as much as eleven million! The Amsterdam Centraal train station alone stands atop 9,000 poles. Each pole needs to be around 15-20 meters tall to be struck down deep enough to support the houses built atop it.

Amsterdam Roof Gables

During the 17th century, it was considered gauche to see the roof of a house from the street or canal. This is why you see so many of Amsterdam’s houses featuring ornate and prominent gables. A roof gable is a section of wall between the edges of a dual-pitched roof. It provides both an aesthetic and functional purpose. Many of the gables in Amsterdam also feature sturdy winches in the center. These were installed to help lift heavy items up to the upper floors of the home or warehouse.

Types of Gables

The uniquely shaped gables are one of the most notable features of Amsterdam’s architecture. There are four primary designs you can see across the city. These include; the stepped gable, the bell gable, the neck gable and the spout gable. Each type of gable corresponding to a different period of time, like spotting fashion trends through the ages.

Why are the Houses so Thin?

Another unique aspect of houses in Amsterdam are their width. The houses are designed to be tall and narrow. But this was originally not originally an aesthetic choice. Back then, taxes were calculated based on the width of the house, not the height. So the answer to building a large home without high taxes was to build upward.

Types of Hosues

There are two main types of houses you see along the canals. They are easily identifiable if you know what you’re looking for. There is the koopmanshuizen (merchant warehouse) and then the herenhuis (residential mansions and townhouses). Merchant houses were designed to work on a split-level design. The lower levels near the water could operate as warehouses and the upper levels were used as the living quarters. Everything from spices, tulips, coffee and more were stored here. To identify the warehouses you need only spot the large wooden shutters. These were only added to merchant’s houses. The shutters when opened allowed goods to be hoisted in up to the upper levels which allowed for more storage space. When closed, the large wooden shutters helped keep out the heat and sunlight to preserve the goods inside.

Walking Tour Starting Point: Brouwersgracht

Our tour starts on the Brouwersgracht. This canal was developed in the 17th century just north of the residential canal belt. It was a canal built for large warehouses. The location near the mouth of the river allowed quick access for ships returning piled with goods. The Brouwersgracht, or the Brewers’ Canal, was named as such due to the number of breweries in the area. The location not only made the delivery of goods simple, but it also meant these warehouses had the best access to fresh water. Essentially for breweries and distilleries.

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Brouwersgracht 218

On Brouwersgracht 224-218, we can see examples of neck gables. The house at #218 features a neck gable decorated with Doric pilasters that extend up in the style of Dutch Baroque architecture. The facade features three “oeil-de-boeuf” or “ox eyes”. These are small rounded windows (although these windows have since been bricked up.) Oeil-de-boeuf windows were popular design trends in Amsterdam and they pop up all over the city.

Hanging from the centre of these gables is a sizeable protruding hook. These hooks were used alongside a pulley system to move heavy items into the home. Although they were originally designed for the warehouses, to bring in spices, cotton or cocoa, in the residential homes they were used to move heavy furniture in and out.

Brouwersgracht 204-212

A group of 17th-century warehouses sit at Brouwersgracht 204-212. Standing on the top of the gables along this series of warehouses are a variety of Green Deer sculptures. The one in the center looks straight out over the canals, seemingly on guard. Whereas the two on either side lie in repose, looking in towards the centre deer. When the family built the warehouses in 1640, the deer were always the crowning glory of the gables. But they disappeared hundreds of years later. When the area residents discovered some old drawings of the warehouses that featured the lost deer, they collaborated to have them reconstructed. Although they are now made of plastic (as to not disturb the structural integrity of the gable), it’s nice to see the love that the neighbours have for their neighbourhood history.

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Brouwersgracht 196-188

Many of the houses along Brouwersgracht contain those iconic brightly coloured window shutters. Used to identify them as warehouses. You can see more examples of these along Brouwersgracht 196-188. All of these warehouses were built around 1636. In 2007 Brouwersgracht was voted the most beautiful street in Amsterdam by readers of Het Parool out of 150 nominations. And one can really see why. The canal is a lovely blend of all the most famous Dutch architecture. It is also home to a series of scenic houseboats that float along the canal. But since the canal is located far enough from the busy tourist centre, the area still feels peaceful and quaint.

Brouwersgracht 174

At #174 Brouwersgracht, you’ll find a vast building with the widest roof gable found anywhere in the city. Topping the centre of the gable is Amsterdam’s famous coat of arms. The coat of arms of Amsterdam consists of a large red shield with a black strip down the center. Punched along the vertical black stripe are three silver Saint Andrew’s Crosses. These three crosses are seen all over Amsterdam, either accompanied by the shield or sometimes just on their own. Unlike what you might think, “XXX” doesn’t stand for anything untoward or x-rated. St. Andrew is the patron saint of Amsterdam as he was a fisherman just like the earliest residents of the city. When St. Andrew was martyred, he was placed on an X-shaped cross, and the X became a symbol for the saint.

But why are there three Xs? Well, there are a few theories. One theory states that they represent the three formidable rivers Amsterdam controlled. Another is that it stands for the holy trinity. But my favourite theory is that they represent the three threats Amsterdam needed to protect itself against. These were fire, flood and plague.

Eenhoornsluis

Just a few steps from the Brouwersgracht is the great Eenhoornsluis or Unicorn Lock. This is one of the 16 “water locks” found around the city. These water locks were built in the 17th century to control the water levels inside the canals. They were meant to protect the town from flooding in from the swelling seas. Previous to 1916, these water locks actually allowed fresh ocean water into the city. But in 1916, a great flood caused much damage to the city. After this, the Southern Sea dike was built to prevent such a flood from ever happening again. This resulted in the transformation of the city’s water to be freshwater only, but the payoff was worth it in the long run.

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Prinsengracht

From the bridge, turn down onto the Prinsengracht. Prinsengracht, or the Prince’s Canal, was named after the Prince of Orange. This is the fourth of the four main canals belonging to the canal belt. The Canal Belt, and rings it formed around the city, would go onto give Amsterdam its distinctive crescent shape. The four canals which make up the Canal Belt are the Singel, Herengracht, Keizersgracht, and the Prinsengracht. The Prinsengracht is the longest of all the canals, stretching out over 3 km, on the outer edge of the city. The epic construction of the canal began in 1612 and took over 50 years to be completed.

Café Papeneiland

As we turn on Prinsengracht, we first stop off at the Café Papeneiland. This is the oldest cafe in Amsterdam, established in 1641! In the 16th century, during the Dutch Protestant Reformation, the government outlawed Catholicism. This meant all Catholics had to practice in secret or abandon their religion altogether. Many underground Catholic churches were built in response. Tunnels ran throughout the city to connect secret entrances to these churches. And this cafe was once one such location. The cafe’s name translates to “papists’ island,” as this part of town was known as a sanctuary for Catholics. The tunnel entrance is still located in the basement. If you order something from the bar (preferably their amazing dutch apple pie), ask the bartender nicely to show you the old entrance.

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Jordaan Neighbourhood

The area along the western side of Prinsengracht is better known as the Jordaan Neighbourhood. The canals closer to the historic center were generally reserved for the wealthy residents of Amsterdam. So the Jordaan Neighbourhood, away from the city centre, was a low-income area and somewhat of a slum. The roads and canals here are more slender than the rest of the city. This was done to save money on construction but resulted in what was seen as a more crowded district. It wouldn’t be until much, much later in Amsterdam’s history, that the area was gentrified into what we see today. Now, the Jordaan is one of the hipper parts of town.

But back in the 17th century, the area was densely populated by immigrants and refugees. Many of these refugees were from France. The name of the area, “Jordaan,” is derived from the french word “Jardin,” meaning garden. Many of the streets off of Prinsengracht are named after flowers.

Noorderkerk

Continuing along, you’ll come to the large Noordermarkt square. The square is dominated by the imposing Noorderkerk or North Church. The North and West Church (which we will see later) were financed by the same merchant guild who hired the same architect, De Keyser, to design them both. The North Church, built in 1620, was meant to be the “people’s church.” It was intended as a simpler version of the more ornate West Church. The Noorderkerk has a symmetrical, cross-shaped layout, reflecting the ideals of the Renaissance and Protestantism. De Keyser’s unique design combines an octagonal floor plan with a structure shaped like Saint Andrew’s cross. Four arms of equal length spread out around the building giving it almost a circular appearance.

The “people’s church” was a polite way to distinguish the population that attended. This town area was home to Amsterdam’s more impoverished population. The wealthy merchant didn’t want to associate with them. They were mainly fishermen, and apparently, the smell of fish was something the wealthy merchant didn’t have the stomach for.

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Van Brienenhofje

Located along Prinsengracht from #85 to 133 is the old Van Brienenhofje. This was one of 13 different breweries which were situated along Prinsengracht. When the brewery closed, it was transformed into an almshouse for the elderly. Today it is still used as a housing association for the poor.

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Prinsengracht 175

At Prinsengracht 175, you can see an old house that dates back to 1661. On the front of the house, are a series of gable stones. They are carved into the shape of a sheep, an ox and a lamb. These gable stones can be found on many of the older buildings around Amsterdam. They were called gevelstenen and used before there was an established numbering system along the canal. These symbols also were used to identify the occupation of the owner inside. This also helped the illiterate population of the city during the middle ages find different shops and businesses they required. Spotting these stone tablets makes for a fun eye-spy game as you explore the city!

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Keizersgracht

We’re going to take a quick detour over to the Keizersgracht by turning left along Prinsenstraat. The Keizersgracht (also called the Emperor’s canal) is the third canal in the canal belt. It was named after Maximilian I, Holy Roman Emperor. During the wintertime, if the weather is cold enough, the water freezes over thanks to the water locks which stop freshwater from entering. This allows residents to skate up and down the canal, a great way to get around during the winter. The canal is 31 meters wide, making it the widest of the waterways in the canal belt.

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Keizersgracht 44

The red shutters of #44 Keizersgracht mark it as a traditional merchant warehouse. But what makes this house different are the stepped gables. Most merchant houses didn’t feature these ornate gables as they were primarily used on residences. This house is also unique as the contents of the warehouse were whale blubber. Large cement pits were dug out in the basement where the whalers could store up to 50,000 litres of whale blubber.

Rode Hoed

The Rode Hoed (Red Hat) announces itself to the public in large red letters as you pass by. While the house looks almost like a church, it was initially a hat makers shop until 1629. After that, the building was purchased by the Remonstrants Brotherhood (a sect of Protestants). Like the Catholics, they needed to practice in secret. They built their underground church here, where they practiced until 1957. After that it was sold to a TV station. Thankfully, the station protected the appearance of the exterior for future generations to appreciate.

Keizersgracht 123

The house at Keizersgracht 123 is better known as the “House with the Heads.” The house was built in 1622 for merchant and art lover Nicolaas Sohier. It was built by city architect Hendrick de Keyser in high Dutch Renaissance style. The roof has been given that illustrious stepped gable design with decorative obelisks, pilasters, claw pieces and swathes of flowers blooming between the windows. Located above the pediments are these wonderful lion masks with their mouths wide open as if in a mid growl.

The house’s name comes from the six sculptural heads on the facade, located just above the first floor. These six heads were initially rumoured to represent six robbers who had once attempted to break into the house. They were caught in the act by the kitchenmaid and were beheaded with her own meat cleaver! Sadly, the story is nothing more than gossip but it makes for a great rumour. The heads acutally represent the six gods; Apollo, Ceres, Mercury, Minerva and Diana.

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Keizersgracht 177

The large brick mansion at #177 Keizersgracht is called the Coymanshuis. It was designed in 1625 by Jacob van Campen for two wealthy brother who were both bankers. The brothers made their fortune in silver and iron. They had huge families, one brother having six children and the other having ten! So, in turnn, they require a very large manor to house all those kids! Architect Jacob van Campen would go on to design the Amsterdam City Hall. He used this house as his winning portfolio piece to get the opportunity to work on the great city hall.

Homomonument

On the other side of the canal, opposite the large and imposing Westerkerk, is a series of steps leading down to a triangular platform. This is the Homomonument, a memorial to commemorate gays and lesbians citizens who were killed by the Nazisduring WWII. Pink triangle badges were used in concentration camps to identify gays and lesbians and the triangular design is used repetedly here to memorialize those actions. The Homomonument was designed to “inspire and support lesbians and gays in their struggle against denial, oppression and discrimination.”  An estimated 15,000 people were sentenced to concentration camps during WWII, many of whom, never returned.

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Astoria Building

Although there aren’t many art nouveau-styled buildings in Amsterdam, you can find one of the greatest here at Keizersgracht #174. This is the Astoria building, built in 1904 to serve as the head office for the Eerste Hollandsche Levensverzekerings Bank. Towering over the rest of the city, the Astoria was the first office tower ever built in the Netherlands. The Dutch style of art nouveau, also called the Nieuwe Kunst, is a much more restrained version of the art style found elsewhere in the world. The most impressive part of the building is the giant mosaic located on the facade depicting an angel protecting a young woman beside a small child.

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Anne Frank House

Turn back onto the Prinsengracht canal and make your way to Prinsengracht #263. The house is easily spotted by the long line of people outside. They are all waiting to see the famed Anne Frank House. It was here that little Anne Frank wrote her seminal diary. This book went on to ignite, inspire and inform young people the whole world about life during WWII.

The Secrets of the House

It was in this house that Anne and her family hid from the Nazis. The house was initially built in 1635 by Dirk van Delft, but the canal facade was renovated in 1740. The lower levels with their wide stable-like doors were initially used to house horses. Later, when Otto Frank bought the house, the space was used as a warehouse for household appliances, piano rolls, and spices. In the back part of the house, was concealed from the street. From the outside, you couldn’t make out the back extension that allowed Anne and her family to hid. A trick bookshelf was installed to give access to these large secret apartments.

Sadly, after hiding for two years, they were discovered by the Nazis during a raid and were sent to the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp. Anne’s father Otto was the only family member to survive. The employees who worked in Otto’s factory came back to retrieve anything left behind by the Nazis. Luckily, one of these items was Anne’s diary. When Otto returned to Amsterdam it was his life’s mission to publish the book. Not knowing how widespread her musings would become. If you are interested in visiting the museum, be sure to book tickets WELL ahead of time. I’m talking like two months early in some cases! You can also line up in the afternoon for day-of tickets but there is no guarantee you’ll get in and the line tends to be hours long.

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Westerkerk

Opposite the Anne Frank House is the 17th-century protestant Westerkerk. This church is most notable for its 87-meter tower, which can be seen all across Amsterdam. The top of the building is capped with the brightly coloured gilded Imperial Crown. The symbol of the imperial crown belonged to the Holy Roman Emperor, in honour of Maximilian I, archduke of Austria and ruler of the Low Countries. When Maximilian travelled to the Hague in 1484 he fell ill. He prayed that if he recovered he would make a pilgrimage to Amsterdam, where the miracle had been performed. When he was indeed healed, he granted the use of his coat of arms to the city of Amsterdam. The crown is covered in bright blue enamel and even decorated in shining jewels to look as realistic as possible.

The interior of the church is rather plain, painted in white with natural stones. The main feature of the interior is the 36 large windows which allow sunlight to pour in from any angle. There isn’t a single building surrounding the church that obstructs the light flowing in. The white painted interior highlights the glowing luminescence produced by these great windows.

Nieuwe-Wercksbrug

Walk up along the Nieuwe-Wercksbrug bridge to get a beautiful view down the canals. Standing on the bridge, you are walking along Rozengracht street. Rozengracht street translates to “rose street,” but back in the 17th-century, the area was nothing of the sort. The Rozengracht is one of the six filled-in canals located in the Jordaan neighbourhood. The canals had to be filled in because of the poor hygienic condition in the water due to the pollution. People threw everything from garbage, dead animals and human waste into the canal. The street literally smelled so bad they had to fill it in. Now you might understand the irony of giving it such a flowery name.

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Reesluis

Reesluis is the name of the bridge which crosses over this part of the Prinsengracht. From here, you have a fantastic view of Westerkerk’s giant clock tower that looms over the canal. The bridge is named after the Reestraat, which continues out to the east. The street’s name translates to “Deer Street.” This area of town was popular with animal skin traders and craftsmen who worked in the leather industry. The bridge is one of the older bridges in the area, built before 1625.

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Lauriergracht

From here, we are taking a short detour to the east along the Lauriergracht. The Lauriergracht, or the “Laurel Canal,” was a popular place for artists to live in the 17th century. I definitely find this canal contains many hidden artistic flourishes from bright stained glass windows, colourful exteriors and even just little ornate stonework hidden here and there. They are small flourishes but definitely a unique characteristic of the area.

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Lauriergracht 23

Built in 1658, this home was a typical 17th-century example of the fanciful neck gables of the time. This one features two huge lions set into claw pieces. The lions look like they are on the prowl, protecting the home from intruders.

The Houseboat Museum

Turn back to Prinsengracht until you reach the corner of Elandsgracht and Prinsengracht where you’ll find the Houseboat Museum. Since there are over 800 houseboats in Amsterdam, you’d be remiss in visiting the city without going inside of one. And unless you’ve booked one for your hotel stay (a great idea, by the way) or you know someone with a houseboat, this might be your only chance to see the interior of one in person. This houseboat dates back to the 1960s. It has such a retro vibe and still displaying all the ingenious ways people make the small spaces work for them as living quarters. There isn’t a drawer or cabinet not squeezed into place to make these floating homes just like the real thing.

Prinsengracht 300

At #300 Prinsengracht we’ll find another beautiful example of the stone house symbols. This one features a red fox with a blue sparrow in its mouth. The house was built for furrier Dirck Hendricksz Hooghvelt who made his living selling fox fur clothing. The house was originally called ‘De Witte Vos’ (meaning the white fox) until 1767 when the stone tablet was repainted white and the house went by the name ‘De Roode Vos’ (the red fox.)

Beudekerbrug

In 1949, while walking across the Beudekerbrug, singer-songwriter Pieter Goemans was inspired to write the famous song ‘Aan de Amsterdamse Grachten‘ (‘On Amsterdam’s Canals’). It is one of the most popular songs celebrating the city. You’ll often hear it played on street organs across the Netherlands. When the author died in 2000, his ashes were scattered here in the canal. The plaque on the bridge commemorates his contribution to the history of Dutch music.

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Palace of Justice – Prinsengracht 443- 436

From the corner of Prinsengracht and Leidsegracht, we can see the great former Palace of Justice. At the corner, the building has a much different style than the neo-classical facade further along. The entire structure was once the old ‘Weeshuis‘ or orphanage. This Weeshuis was designed to serve the poorest of Amsterdam’s children. Two small stone carvings on either side of the doors on the old brick building show the images of the nuns. The nun who worked in the orphanage are seen holding hands with the small children in the frame. Despite the updating of the rest of the building this small memento from history remains.

The orphanage was renovated into the Palace of Justice in 1825 by architect Jan de Greef. Greef was working under the stylist trends of the period. These were heavily inspired by ancient Greek architecture. The building features large stone columns, Corinthian capitals and heavy stone balustrades. On the second-floor facade, you can see a stone carving with a poem attributed to Jacob van Lennep. It reads, “Under your rule, Serene Willem! Is this Asylum rebuilt, and consecrated to Law and Justice.”

Prinsengracht 769

At Prinsengracht 769, you’ll find the old Prinsengracht Hospital. The original hospital was built in 1857 after the cholera epidemic in the 1850s. The hospital remained open for over 150 years, eventually closing in 2015. A modern co-working space company bought the property. They wanted to transform the individual hospital rooms into rentable desks spaces and meeting rooms for digital nomads and start-up companies. While the interior has been modernized, the facade remains much unchanged from the days when it served as a hospital.

The Deutzen Hofje

Facing out along the canal’s bend is the Deutzen Hofje at Prinsengracht 857. Hofje is the Dutch word for a courtyard with almshouses around it. Hofjes have existed since the Middle Ages providing housing mainly for the elderly. The house was built in 1695 with funds from a wealthy Amsterdam resident. She bequeathed the house over to the city to become free housing for older servants who couldn’t work anymore. On the front of the house are the words, “A comfort to the poor, an example to the rich.”

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Reguliersgracht 92

At the corner of Prinsengracht and Reguliersgracht is an old red-painted building. Take note of the interesting sculpture of a stork peeking out over the niche above the doorway. The building was first built in the 17th century for a popular midwife. She used the stork as a symbol and de-facto advertisement for her business.

De Duifbrug

De Duifbrug or the Dove Bridge has also been called the “tunnel of love.” The original name came from the fact the bridge was located next to the old De Duif church. But the nickname was given as it is thought to be one of the most romantic spots in the city. Standing on the bridge your vantage point looks out over at the seven different famous bridges that surround the area. When illuminated at night, it is one of the most magical places in the city!

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Brasserie Nel

Set back on the Amstelveld, is a charming tree-lined square. Located right inside is the old Brasserie Nel. The building, which houses the trendy restaurant with a picture-perfect patio, was built in 1668. It originally served as a temporary church before the De Duif was constructed. The restaurant is a great place to stop if you’re looking for somewhere to grab a bite to eat or just have a refreshing glass of beer!

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Magere Brug, the Skinny Bridge

Make your way down to the Amstel River to see the Magere Brug or “Skinny Bridge.” Considered by most to be the most beautiful bridge in the city. The Magere Brug is a bascule bridge or draw bridge. These bridges can be raised to provide clearance for large boat traffic to pass through. The present bridge was built in 1934 to accommodate these large boats which couldn’t pass under the original stone bridge.

The first incarnation of this passage across the river was installed in 1691. Back then, it is said that the bridge was created by two sisters who lived on opposite sides of the Amstel river. Each one wanted to be able to visit one another every day without having to jump into a boat. But the women weren’t super-wealthy and could only afford to build a very narrow bridge. Hence the original name “skinny” bridge. Walk out onto the bridge for some of the best photo opportunities in the city. The view looking out at the Amstel River as well as the view of the bridge and houses behind it are both stunning photo spots.

Amstel

The name Amstel is derived from the Dutch word Amestelle. “Ame” meaning water, and “stelle” meaning solid, high dry ground. In the 12th century, the Amstel river was developed to serve as a commercial waterway by the very wealthy Van Amstel family. The family had been an influential dynasty in the medieval Netherlands named after the river from which they drew their wealth. The river is truly the lifeblood of the town and is one of the most important transit routes in Amsterdam.

Herengracht

Walk back to Amstel street until you reach the Herengracht. The Herengracht is the second of four Amsterdam canals belonging to the canal belt, located right behind the Singel Canal. The portion of the canal was built in 1612. Previously the area was a simple moat dug for the companies on the Singel canal to use. The name of the canal was given in honour of Heren Regeerders van de stad, the Gentlemen Governor of Amsterdam. Today it goes by the nickname the Gentlemen’s Canal.

Willet-Holthuysen Museum

After walking past so many of these canal houses, take this opportunity to step inside one for yourself! The house at Herengracht 605 was built for the mayor of Amsterdam Jacob Hop in 1685. It was passed down to each subsequent mayor until 1895, when it passed hands to Abraham Willet and Louisa Holthuysen. When Willet died, Louisa bequeathed the house to the city of Amsterdam. She gave it along with their collection of art, furniture and another interior decor to serve as the Willet-Holthuysen Museum.

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The facade was renovated in 1739 to suit the new Louis XIV style. I adore the floral stone carvings, which look like they are real flowers growing out of the stone. Above the doorway is a large stone sculpture of St. George standing atop a slain dragon. Holding up the plinth is the head of an elephant whose trunk acts as a column holding up the entire stone tablet. The interiors all date back to 1895 and are a wonderful slice of that period of architecture, design and art in Amsterdam. Ticket prices for Adults are €12.50.

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Gouden Bocht

The Gouden Bocht or Golden Bend was built as the most prestigious part of the Herengracht. Many people who originally purchased the land here were regents, mayors and traders. They were encouraged to buy a double lot to ensure their mansion felt grand and imposing. Most of the residents made their living importing and exporting goods from South America or the Dutch East Indies. The name “golden bend” came from the fact that the city’s wealthiest families seemed to be amassed right here along the bend.

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Philips Vingboons and Adriaan Dortsman

Two architects were responsible for most of the structures along the Golden Bend. They were Philips Vingboons and Adriaan Dortsman. Philips Vingboons is known to be the originator of the famous neck gable design. Since Vingboons was a Catholic and the city was controlled by the protestant elite, he never had the opportunity to design any governmental or religious buildings in the town. These kinds of commissions would have brought in a substantial amount of money and fame for the artisan which he, therefore, missed out on.

Having two principal designers for one area meant the strip has a more uniform appearance. The styles they preferred featured very classical facades. Today, the Golden Bend keeps its name and is home to some of the largest banks and financial institutions in Amsterdam. Very appropriate.

De Bazel

Almost unmissable is the domanieering De Bazel building on the corner of Herengracht and Vijzelstraat. The building is the former headquarters of the Nederlandsche Handel-Maatschappij. The NHM was founded in 1824 by King William I to promote trade, shipping, shipbuilding, fishing, agriculture and manufacturing. One of their most important functions was supporting trade between the Netherlands and the Dutch East Indies. The building was designed by the architect Karel de Bazel in 1919. It is nicknamed De Spekkoek, which translates to pork belly. It is named as such because of the alternating light and dark colours of stone that look like layers of fat in bacon. Spekkoek is also the name of a popular dessert with the same light and dark layers but made with cake.

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Herengracht 446

The beautiful black brick facade at #446 was home to the Amsterdam regent family De Graeff. Andries de Graeff became the reigning mayor of Amsterdam in 1671. De Graeff was a Free Imperial Knight of the Holy Roman Empire. The Free Imperial knights were free nobles of the Holy Roman Empire, whose direct overlord was the Emperor. The upper gable is a stone shield with the De Graeff family coat of arms emblazoned on it. The coat of arms comprises two white swans and two shovels in either corner of the shield. The shovel represents the Herren von Graben family and the swans from the De Grebber family who joined together to form this new noble house.

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Koningssluis

The Koningssluis bridge is one of the more uniquely designed bridges in Amsterdam. The original bridge was from 1662, but the current incarnation was made in 1921 by architect Piet Kramer. Instead of removing the entire old stone bridge, Kramer worked to integrate the ancient stones with new decorative wrought iron railings. He was inspired by the art deco fashion of the time. Don’t miss checking out the stone and brick corner of the bridge. These feature stone sculptures in the shape of mythical animals which are little hidden gems to discover.

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Herengracht 394

The house on the corner of Herengracht and Leidsegracht is home to the ‘De Vier Heemskinderen‘ house. Notice the iconic house symbol above the doorway featuring a horse with four riders. This depicts the medieval story of the Four Sons of Aymon or the Heemskinderen. The house was built during the canal expansion in 1671. The high neck gable is decorated with carved floral garlands, which also embellish brick around the windows.

Herengracht 390-392

The houses along Herengracht 390-392 both feature incredible Dutch Baroque claw pieces adding a bit of interest to their neck gables. The houses were commissioned as a duo by the wood merchant Jan Teeringh and designed by Justus Vingboons. The ornately carved claw piece consists of a male and female figure leaning on the gable. A large cartouche was carved below them. On either side of the window are two large floral festoons, made to look like the stone facade has begun to bloom.

Museum of the Canals

If you are interested in learning more about the history of the canals in Amsterdam, make a stop inside the Museum of the Canals. Inside this historic grand mansion, you will travel back in time through over 400 years of history. You’ll be able to learn more about the history of Amsterdam and how the canals and the canal houses were built atop the water. Through minature scale models, 3D animations and interactive multimedia experience, you are really immersed into the world of Amsterdam’s history.

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Herengracht 380

Herengracht 380 is probably my favourite house along the Herengracht. It looks so much different than the rest of the buildings along the canal, in a very distinctive style. It was built in 1775 adjoining three other buildings which once stood here. Sadly, in the 19th century, a great fire burned down the old buildings, and they all had to be demolished. But this new treasure rose from their ashes. The architect Abraham Salm was inspired by his time in Paris and the castles he saw in the Loire valley. The french style of architecture is a rarity to find in Amsterdam. The facade is covered in exuberant decorations, carved medallions, large sculptures, ornate balustrades and sandstone lilies (an iconic symbol of France). Although it was initially designed as a residence, it has since passed hands and is a government office building today.

Cromhout House

The houses along 370-364 are lovely examples of the lavish designs of the 17th century. Initially built for wealthy merchant Jacob Cromhout, the house was designed in 1660 in Dutch classicist style by architect Philips Vingboons. The lower facade is mainly classical but the gables are covered in a stunning array of intricate stucco decorations, which are emblematic of the Dutch baroque area. Pay close attention to the oval oeil-de-boeuf windows surrounding gorgeous floral motifs. Besides the neck, gables are claw pieces in the shape of swirling shells, another element of baroque iconography. The building was previously home to the beautiful Bible Museum, but it closed permanently in 2020. The home is now used for travelling exhibitions.

Bartolotti House

The Bartolotti House at Herengracht 170 was built in 1617 for Willem Bartolotti van den Heuvel tot Beichlingen. Willem had married Giovanni Battista Bartolotti, who came from a wealthy family of merchants from Bologna. Hendrick de Keyser was the architect and one of the most influential Baroque Renaissance architects. And this house is perhaps the best example of his work. The richly decorated facade has pilasters, masks, vases, claw pieces, extensive balustrades, and one of the most elaborate stepped gables in the city. The actual facade of the house seems to be bent at a slight angle, as the home is located in what was called the “small bend” of the Herengracht. On the facade are two large cartouches with the inscription, “Ingenio et Assiduo Labore” (by ingenuity and diligence) on the left and “Religione et Probate” (by religion and righteousness) on the right.

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Herengracht 120

The charming black brick house with white accents at #120 was built in 1615 for cloth merchants Michiel Jansz de Lange and Adriaen Jacobsz van Noort. These merchants traded mainly with Norway, and they wanted to name their home after the King which they served. The style of the house with its large expansive windows is known as Amsterdam’s Urban Renaissance architecture.

Herengracht 81

One of the most spectacular historical houses is at #81. It announces its permanence with the date printed on the brick of 1590 when the house was first constructed. This is actually the oldest residential house in all of Amsterdam. It was initially a traditional merchant’s house, highlighted by those gorgeous wooden shutters. Before these brick buildings were constructed, in the medieval period in Amsterdam, all houses were built out of wood. But sadly, three great fires which ripped through the city destroyed all of these original homes. After the last fire in 1597, the government ensured all new houses were made in brick to help prevent future widespread fires. I adore the stepped gable located on this house; the red brick and white stone atop each step really highlight the shape and makes it so unique.

Melkmeisjesbrug

The Melkmeisjesbrug will take you from Herengracht over the Brouwersgracht. The word “Melkmeisjes” means “milk market.” When the bridge was first built in the 17th century, it was located near the large Dutch milk market. You’ll notice a set of three burgundy-coloured bollards situated on either end of the bridge. These were installed to prevent large vehicles from passing over the old bridge, which cannot withstand the weight. This was actually the first place they were installed. They are called the Amsterdammertje (Dutch for ‘little one from Amsterdam’). They are imprinted with three Saint Andrew’s Crosses from the coat of arms of Amsterdam.

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Singel Canal

Walking south from the Haarlemmer Sluice we will come upon the last of the canals in the Canal Belt; the Singel Canal. The Singel encircled Amsterdam’s medieval centre, serving as a moat around the city until 1585. The Dutch word “omsingelen” means “to surround” as the canal literally surrounded and protected the medieval old town as a makeshift fortress of water. The trench was dug in 1428, making it the oldest of the channels in the central belt.

Singel 7

On the east side of the canal at Singel #7, we find the little slice of a house. It barely registers as a house at all when you pass by it. This is indeed the narrowest house in Amsterdam. The house is literally only a door’s width wide, with a singular window located on the second floor. Since we know that the property was taxed based on width, this building would have been a real penny pincher.

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Ronde Lutherse Kerk

Although it’s now used as an event space, the imposing Ronde Lutherse Kerk or Nieuwe Lutherse Kerk was once the former New Lutheran church in Amsterdam. It was built in 1668 as the second and thus “new” Lutheran Church after the Old Lutheran Church had become too small. This building couldn’t cope with the many Lutheran immigrants coming into the city.

Lutheran architecture forbids the construction of bell towers, so instead, the architect wanted to make the great dome as the central focus of the church. Crowning the top of the dome is the Lutheran swan. The swan is a famous symbol in the Lutheran church because of its connection with Jan Hus. Hus was a key predecessor to the Protestant movement in Bohemia during the 16th century. His teachings had a strong influence on Martin Luther. When Hus was sentenced to be burnt alive, just before he said, “today you will roast a goose, but a swan will rise from the ashes.”

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Londenvaarders

The area along the Singel canal from the Ronde Lutherse Kerk to the Lijnbaanssteeg is known as Londenvaarders. This part of the canal was where ships coming in from London would be docked. Anyone walking around this area during the 17th century would find English sailors and merchants everywhere they looked and it became a de facto embassy for Englishmen.

Singel 36

Look across the canal at #36 Singel. From this further away vantage point, you can really appreciate the elegance of the beautiful cornice in Louis XV style, which tops the house. In the centre of the richly decorated balustrade is this incredible carving of the god Mercury lounging, holding in his hand a large purse. Surrounding the relaxed god is a series of items relating to the trade industry like barrels, wine and animals. The house was originally built in 1763 for shipowner and trader Tamme IJsbrandsz Beth. Beth was troubled by the arrival of the British and the fact the London ships took over the area and wanted to create a powerful facade that would show his dominance over the British fleets.

Blauwburgwal

Continue along the Singel canal until you come to the Blauwburgwal canal on your left. The Blauwburgwal canal is the shortest waterway in the city center. It is sandwiched right between the Singel and the Herengracht by two scenic bridges. The trees which line either side of the little canal makes this such a picturesque little scene to stop in and look at.

De Dolphijn

Head back to the Single Canal and make your way down to #140. This is better known as the house De Dolphijn. The house was built in the 17th century for soap merchant Hendrick Laurensz Spieghel. The front facade consists of two identical stepped gables made of that iconic red brick with sandstone highlights. The house is one of the best examples of Dutch Baroque architecture in the style of Hendrick de Keyser.

The main characteristics of this style were the symmetrical facades created from brick using classical references. This can be seen with the addition of the images of Greek masks featured above the window pediments on the first floor. The house is one of the few facades in Amsterdam that still has scroll ornaments along the gables. Originally the house featured dolphins on both sides gable. The dolphin was the emblem of the Spieghel family, and therein is where the nickname of the house came from.

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The Torensluis

As we continue down the Single Canal, we come up the enormous Torensluis bridge. This bridge is the oldest and widest bridge in the entire city, preserved since 1648. It measures a whopping 42 meters wide! The word “Torensluis” means “tower lock,” as the bridge was once home to a great tower that stood here until the mid-19th-century. Looking back at the bridge from further along the canal, study the area under the bridge along either side of the arches. There you can spot several small barred windows. Beneath the bridge, there was once a dungeon and prison cells connected to the old tower. Truly an example of how ingenious the architects of the city were. Using every little bit of space to cram in more infrastructure.

Multatuli Statue

Most of the bridge is now used by the cafes nearby as patio space. But amidst these seats is a statue of Dutch writer Multatuli. Eduard Douwes Dekker, better known by his pen name “Multatuli,” was a Dutch writer best known for his satirical novel Max Havelaar. This book was one of the first to denounced the abuses of colonialism in the Dutch East Indies. It is a considered piece of writing from 1860. Multatuli was truly a man ahead of his time as an anti-colonialist.

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Singel 188

On the other side of the bridge at #188, we can find another great example of Amsterdam’s stone tablets. Most of the general public couldn’t read during the middle ages. Therefore to help businesses bring in customers, these stone tablets used pictorial images to depict their goods and services. This is a perfect example as the tablet above the doorway features a windmill. The house is named the “De Roo Oly Molen” or “The Red Oil Mill.” A few doors down at #194, you can find another example of a cobbler’s shop. This stone features a shoe and some cobbing equipment. Hundreds of years ago people would have just one shoe to their name and repairing their shoes was much more common than we do today. Early examples of sustainability.

Singel 192

The house at #192 features a beautiful neck gable with this curved pediment featuring a brightly painted bunch of grapes. The house was built in 1739 in Louis XIV style for the wine merchant Arend Roger. Just another example of how some merchants liked to advertise their businesses through their gable architecture. Something I genuinely wish we still did today, a great way to get to know your neighbours!

Singel 288

The gable along the top of the house at #288 features this wonderfully playful dolphin’s head. The dolphin appears to be bursting forth from the house with a spray of water cresting up behind him. Dolphins are a frequent symbol seen throughout Amsterdam, even though the canals are not home to these sea creatures. But the animals have a deep connection to the sailors and sailing merchants who would greet these great beasts on their voyages. Incorporating them into their home designs was a means of keeping that connection to the waters close to home.

Singel 326

The 18th-century house at #326 features the most incredible scene on either side of the beautiful neck gable. Sitting against the curved claw pieces are statues of Neptune and Mercury holding a golden trident and caduceus, respectively. Surrounding the lifting beams are also a swath of Acanthus leaves. Acanthus leaves are a symbol of enduring life. When combined with the images of Mercury, we can imagine that this house was perhaps a doctor’s residence.

Old Lutheran Church

The sizeable windowed building at #411 is the Old Lutheran Church. And when I say old, I mean old. It was built in 1632, that’s over 350 years ago! The church is a very, very odd one to visit. It is such an irregular shape. The floorplan curving to flank the edge of Spui road on the northern side of the building.

Singel 460

House #460 Singel is better known as the House Nürnberg or the Odeon building. It was designed by famed architect Philips Vingboons in 1661. However, previously, the lot had been used as a brewery as early as 1586. What makes this building stand out is the tall neck gable. The building is built in a rich, dark burgundy brick with contrasting light sandstone curved claw pieces decorated with elaborate festoons. Two oeil-de-boeuf windows stand below either side of the claw pieces. A large Cartouche surrounds the huge lifting hook. The festoons from the upper levels hang down below the windows. Looks like the building has been decorated for the holidays every day of the year!

Bloemenmarkt

Walking along Singel crossing the Koningsplein, we enter the great Bloemenmarkt. The Bloemenmarkt is the world’s only floating flower market founded in 1862. Back then, this part of the city was where flower growers would enter the canal to sell their plants. They travelled on large barges that floated beside the canal and buyers would simply hop on the barge. The barge would sit beside the streets and return to their ships once all the flowers were sold. Today the barges are affixed to the mainland. Sadly, much of the original flower market has disappeared over the years. Few to no vendors actually sell blooming flowers here. Instead, the market is mainly a tourist attraction with gift shops and souvenir stands. These focus primarily on tulip paraphernalia.

Tulip Bulbs

Some of the vendors do sell fresh tulip bulbs which you can bring home to plant. But only if your country allows them through customs (be sure to check!) Although it’s super touristy, I actually loved looking at the varieties of tulip bulbs for sale. It’s incredible to see how many different colours and even new “designer” flowers have been created. They were made by combining different strains of tulips together in the lab. If you can try to ignore the hoards of tourists and just focus on this, you might actually get something out of a visit to the Bloemenmarkt. But the Bloemenmarkt can get super crowded! You only need to see a portion of it to get the idea. I would advise jumping down Sint Jorisstraat and then walking along Reguliersdwarsstraat until you reach Vijzelstraat. This little back street is a great way to avoid the crowds.

Munttoren

Walking over Muntsluis bridge to find your way to the great Munttoren (Mint Tower), which sits at the intersection of the Amstel River and the Singel Canal. The great tower was initially located at the entrance to the city’s main gates along Amsterdam’s medieval wall. The original building was made in 1480 and consisted of two towers and a guardhouse. After the great fire of 1618, the tower was rebuilt as you see it today in Amsterdam Renaissance style. The entire structure was replaced in 1885 but maintains its medieval design.

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In the 17th-century, during the Dutch wars against England and France, the city was occupied by these factions. The transportation of coins from their location outside the city was impossible with these restrictions. So the guardhouse was set up as a temporary mint, giving the tower its official nickname. The building features a beautiful tower design by Hendrick de Keyser. They installed a clock face on every side of the spire so that citizens on every corner of town could look to it to tell the time.

The Dancing Houses

Make a quick detour over the Halvemaansbrug and onto ‘s-Gravelandseveer street. From here you have the best vantage point over to the famous Amsterdam Dancing Houses. Since houses in Amsterdam were built upon muddy marshland and stand on old pine-wood poles, some of the houses have begun to shift and sink over time. Surprisingly it’s not the weight of the house that creates the unevenness, but the water level. So long as the pole remains under the water, its integrity is preserved. But the second the water level drops, the wood can start to rot. The rot weakens the structure and causes this sagging effect. Although many houses are sinking, this row of houses seems to be suffering the most. They have become affectionately known as the “dancing queens” or “dancing houses.” The wobbling levels making them appear as though they are dancing up and down.

Grimburgwal

Just around the corner from the Dancing Houses is the Grimburgwal. This canal marks the outskirts of the Red Light District. The Grimburgwal also marks the entrance to the Medieval centre of Amsterdam. This narrow watery passageway connects the great Oudezijds Voorburgwal to the Amstel river via the Rokin canal. The name “Grimburgwal” comes from the word “grim,” which means “muddy ditch” and “burgwal” which means earthen wall. This part of the city was home to this large earthen wall dug out along the muddy waters used to protect the medieval city. The wall was destroyed in 1384 during the city’s expansion. The Grimburgwal remained the city’s southern canal border until 1425 when the canal belt began to be constructed. It’s a small, almost forgettable canal today, but its rich history is something to take note of.

The view from the Amstel River along the medieval Groenburgwal, with the steeple of the Southern Church in the background, has been painted by several famous painters over the years. Rembrandt himself would come here to paint as the canal was so close to his home. But the most famous painting of the canal was made in the 19th-century by impressionist painter Monet.

Kloveniersburgwal

From Grimburgwal walk back towards the Aluminium Bridge, which crosses over the Kloveniersburgwal. The Kloveniersburgwal canal was dug out in the 15h-century originally designed as a defensive canal to protect the Oudeschanst. The canal’s name comes from the division of the civic guards called the ‘kloveniers‘ who worked along with these defences.

During the Second World War, Kloveniersburgwal was the border of the Jewish quarter. It was here that the Germans started to segregate the Jewish population of Amsterdam before sending most of them off to concentration camps. At one point, more than 25,000 Jewish people were living here. Sadly, 75-80% of the people from the neighbourhood were deported and murdered by the Nazis. After the war, this part of town must have been hauntingly empty, a constant memory of the loss.

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Oudezijds Voorburgwal

Walk west along Vendelstraat, through the pedestrian walkway north towards the Sleutelbrug, which looks out over the entrance to the Oudezijds Voorburgwal. The Oudezijds Voorburgwal (often abbreviated to OZ Voorburgwal) means “old city walls.” This area was where the defensive ramparts continued around the old medieval city. The canal was originally nothing more than a little creek but was dug out to create this large waterway in the 14th century. As the canal was one of the first large expansions, it is where we can find some of the oldest buildings in Amsterdam.

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Red Light District

During the Dutch Golden Age, the canal was a hub for commerce and ships coming into port. This influx of sailors led to the development of what we now call the “Red Light District.” While some people only come here to gawk at the red light dancing girls, there is so much more to this historic canal to see and appreciate.

Despite the fact that today the area is known for its illicit activities, in the middle ages, the canal was where you could find a large number of monasteries, churches and religious institutions. During the 17th century, many wealthy Catholic merchants made this part of the city their home. Back then, the area was nicknamed the “Velvet defence-canal“. Sort of a dig at the rich merchants who lived here who were known for dressing in fancy velvet clothing.

House at the Three Canals

At the intersection of the Oudezijds, the Achterburgwal and the Grimburgwal, we find the Huis Aan De Drie Grachten or House on the Three Canals. Name because it is located at this meeting point of these three famous waterways. This house is so fantastical, designed in high Dutch Renaissance style. I especially love the large leaded glass window and set-in brick arches above them. The charming red wooden shutters making it so classical Dutch looking. The house was originally two separate lots built around 1610!

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The house was designed for bricklayer Claes Adriaensz van Delft. Seeing as it was made for a bricklayer it is only appropriate that the bricks on this house are among the most impressive parts of the entire building. During the 1930s, a bookstore was opened in the house. Inside, the various bookshelves hid behind them, secret compartments where Jewish people on the run from the Germans could hide. These hidden compartments were only discovered in 2005 during renovations to the building. Adding to the already illustrious history of the building.

Agnietenkapel

Behind this grand arched entrance, is the doorway into the old Agnietenkapel, also known as the Chapel of the Convent of Saint Agnes. This is one of the oldest structures in the city, dating back to 1470. In the 15th century, the area along the southern half of Oudezijds Voorburgwal canal was called the stille zijde or the “quiet side.” This so-called peaceful part of town became popular with religious institutions looking for a monastic place to build their home. Away from the hustle and bustle of the raucous trade center. Very ironic today that all these churches are now located in what would be considered the most unholy neighbourhoods, the Red Light District.

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Athenaeum Illustre

In 1578, when the Catholic city government was deposed in favour of the Protestant one, all Catholic churches and monasteries were demolished. This was called the Alteratie, or the “alternative.” But the Agnietenkapel was thought to be too beautiful to be destroyed. Instead, in 1631 it was converted into the Athenaeum Illustre. The Athenaeum Illustre, or Amsterdamse Atheneum, was a city-sponsored ‘illustrious school.’ An Athenaeum Illustre was neither a university nor just a school. It fell somewhere between where it would teach at an academic level, but there were no degrees given out. In the 17th century, each province was only allowed one official university, and Holland already had a university at Leiden. It wasn’t until 1815 that it was recognized as an official academic institution where diplomas could be given out. Leading to its transformation into the University of Amsterdam.

Church Gate

The Agnietenpoort or Church Gate is fantastically carved with so many ornaments placed along the archway. You can see why they decided to preserve it when it changed hands from the church. On the top, set into a large shield is the Amsterdam coat of arms. The coat of arms of Amsterdam consists of a red shield (here just plain stone) with three silver Saint Andrew’s Crosses down the middle highlighted by a black pale. The black pale symbolizes the Amstel River, while the three crosses represent the three dangers of Old Amsterdam: fire, floods and the Black Death. St. Andrew is the patron saint of Amsterdam as he is the patron saint of fisherman as the city was originally just a small fishing village.

Surrounding the coat of arms is typical Vredeman de Vries motifs. Hans Vredeman de Vries was a Dutch Renaissance architect best known for his publication in 1583 on garden designs. Inside this book were many drawings of floral ornamentations that have since been referenced ever since on buildings all over the city. A large cartouche frames the emblem with the year 1631 below and a roaring lion on top. The Dutch Republic Lion was the badge of the Union of Utrecht and a precursor of the current coat of arms of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. You’ll find lion symbols all over the city to represent this ancient heraldry.

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Amsterdam Municipal Pawnshop

Pawnshops have truly been around forever! Proof positive of this fact is the old Municipal Pawnshop found along the canal. This building was established in Amsterdam in 1616. It was created as a municipal charity to protect poor people from shady loan sharks. These loan sharks would lend out money at a sky-high interest rate that made it impossible to ever pay back and get out of debt. The Amsterdam Municipal Pawnshop, or Stadsbank van Lening, was started as a not-for-profit city bank that still operates today! It is considered the oldest bank in Amsterdam and one of the oldest banks in the world!

Above the doorway, you’ll find the city coat of arms topped by the Emperor’s crown. In gold lettering, along the pediment over the doorway, is a poem in Dutch. It reads, “Have you neither money nor property, pass this door. Have you the last, and do you miss the first, come to me. Give pledge, I give you money, why should I guarantee you? Or isn’t it enough that you live off mine? But if you return your pledge, you must take care in time. That my principal will return with interest. I help you and me and show it to the investigators. Of my secrets, the grave of forgotten usurers.“

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The Prinsenhof

Another holy institution located along the Oudezijds Voorburgwal was the St. Cecilia Monastery. The original church was built in the early 15th century but after the Alteratie, the Catholic institution was converted into the city’s Prinsenhof in 1581. It was named the ‘Prinsenhof‘ after Prince William of Orange. In the late 16th century, the prince of Orange was the ruler of the Netherlands and would often use the building as his primary residence. It was later used as the Admiralty in the 17th century.

Prinsenhof as City Hall

In 1808 King Louis Bonaparte pulled the old switcharoo and wanted to convert the beautiful Dam City Hall into his Royal Palace. This meant the city needed to find a new location for its city hall. Seeing as the Prinsenhof was little used at this time, it was selected as their new City Hall. The building was used as accommodation for visiting dignitaries, mayors and, of course, city council meetings. When the city council moved in, the building saw a huge change in the architecture to suit its new function.

Amsterdam School Style

The new style of architecture which came out of the building of the new city hall was called, “Amsterdam School Style.” Like all variations of Dutch architecture, it heavily featured brickwork. The use of bricks is the primary building material in Amsterdam is due to the fact that the city’s access to clay. Clay is found in abundance around the rivers which encircle the city. Amsterdam School structures are also characterized by a rounded appearance, as demonstrated here by the curved facade bowing out towards the canal. The style also tended to favour decorative masonry, wrought iron accents, spires and ‘ladder’ windows. The style is slightly reminiscent of the Art Deco design aesthetic but with a Dutch interpretation. The decorative masonry here features large artistic pillars along the first floor. They depict men and women as symbols correlating to administrative virtues such as simplicity, courage, and diligence.

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City Hall Public Urinal

Across from Oudezijds Voorburgwal #195 is a small brick and stone cylindrical structure which is actually a public urinal! A urinal probably seems like a very strange thing to make a point to visit. But this urinal has become an actual National Monument. It was built in 1926 and renovated for the new City hall. The urinal was designed to fit into the same uniform Amsterdam school style as the City Hall. Right on top of the urinal entrance, you’ll find another sculpture designed by artist Hildo Krop. This sculpture matches the same sculptures on the pillars outside the City Hall. If nature calls, men can still use the rudimentary bathroom today!

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Oudezijds Voorburgwal 187

The Dutch Classical black brick building at #187 has a very interesting gable design, specifically around the ornate claw pieces. The house was built in 1663 for an American tobacco trader. We can tell the house was designed for a merchant working in the Americas because of the imagery featured in the claw pieces. We can see sculptures of the merchant’s enslaved Africans holding tobacco leaves. Above them are pictured personifications of indigenous workers carrying large harvest baskets. 

Amsterdam’s Architecture of Colonial Exploitation

Many parallels can be drawn between America’s colonization and the enslavement of the African people to the Netherlands’ own dark colonial past. Everyone knows that the “Dutch Golden Age” was the city’s great boom in the 17th century brought about by its free and tolerant society and its enormous trading empire. With the creation of the Dutch East India Company, the Netherlands had an empire of ships that roamed the coastlines of Asia and Africa.

But it wasn’t just spice and silks they brought home. They also colonized countries and robbed them of their natural resources. And although the Dutch didn’t bring slaves back to their home country, the colonies suffered through a period of around 200 years of slavery until it was abolished in 1863. While houses like this and other images of slavery are tough to observe, it’s essential to understand and accept this period of Amsterdam’s history. You can learn a lot more about Amsterdam’s Architecture of Colonial Exploitation in this great article!

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 136

The house on Oudezijds Voorburgwal #136 was first built in the 16th century. Above the doorway, there is an iconic wooden relief featuring the famous navy officer Admiral Cornelis Tromp. Cornelis Maartenszoon Tromp lived in Amsterdam but never at this particular residence. In fact, the relief wasn’t installed until well after his death. The house was purchased by trader Jan Pranger who had a great reverence for Cornelis Tromp as a fellow sea traveller.

Admiral Cornelis Tromp Stone Tablet

Tromp can be seen in his heroic pose, his hand resting on a large globe above a scrolled nautical chart in the background. The relief was hidden for years when the house was converted into a printing shop that covered up the old plaque. In the 1990s, when the house was being refurbished, the old emblem was released, and they went about restoring the brightly painted colours to their former glory. The house basement was converted into a sex shop in 1980 but today the house serves as the headquarters for the green energy initiative in Amsterdam.

Bulldog Coffeeshop

The Bulldog Coffeeshop is a famous landmark in the neighbourhood as it is the oldest “coffee shop” in Amsterdam. It was established in 1974 as a secret “speakeasy” for soft drugs. Despite multiple raids over the years, eventually, the city began to tolerate the sale of these drugs. Many people think marijuana is legal in Amsterdam, and surprisingly that’s not the case. But it is generally accepted, even by the police, who look the other way. The original location is worth visiting as you can discover more about the history of cannabis in Amsterdam inside.

Even if you don’t partake in the consumption, you can’t visit Amsterdam without seeing what these “coffee shops” are all about. Plus, this location has a full menu with food and drink options that don’t contain any drugs. I myself don’t partake but still had a blast checking them out and seeing what a comfortable, friendly atmosphere I was greeted with inside.

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The Oude Kerk

The crowing glory of the Oudezijds Voorburgwal canal is the grand Oude Kerk. The Oude Kerk or “Old Church” is named as such because is the oldest religious institution in the city. The first wooden part of the structure was constructed here in 1213! Originally the church was named St. Nicolas Church after the patron saint of the city.

The area they selected for the church was a sold mound in the otherwise marshy settlement. This allowed the church to grow in size without requiring much additional foundation work. Today the church sprawls out over 36,000 sq ft. Each generation of Amsterdam’s religious elite seemed to have added their own personal touch in its expansion. In the 14th century, the side aisle was lengthened, and the great medieval wooden vaults were installed. These remain to this day are the oldest medieval wooden vault in all of Europe. The vaults were made out of great Estonian oak planks. Some of the plants were stained in various colours to look like paintings on the ceiling. Bands of florals surround each part of the vault with golden stars decorating the keystones. These vaults are still thought to provide some of the best acoustics even amongst the more modern churches.

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Miracle of Amsterdam

In the 14th century, the church was the site of the “Miracle of Amsterdam.” One day, a dying man accepted the sacramental bread during communion. But after ingesting it, he began to vomit it up in a fit of pain. When the priests threw the vomit into the fire, the bread did not burn, and the act was proclaimed a miracle. Even stranger than the miracle itself was the fact that the vomitted bread was preserved in a relic chest and kept inside the church. Sadly their miracle relic was one of the many items which disappeared during the Alterie.

Stained Glass

In the 15th century, a north and south transept were added to change the floorplan of the church into a cross shape. The beautiful large windows inside the church were installed in 1406 and were once covered in vibrant stained glass. More and more windows were added over the years, totalling 33 large-scale artfully made scenes. Sadly during the great fire of 1536 and the gunpowder explosion in 1654, all of these original windows were destroyed.

Most of the windows are now plain glass replacements but, beginning in the 20th century, these windows began to be restored. Using paintings, drawings and historical architectural plans, the church museum started to create modern interpretations of the ancient windows. There were created by artist Joep Nicolas. The windows depict various biblical stories, such as the Parable of the Prodigal Son and the story of baby Moses. But they also commissioned some modern, secular scenes as well. Inside the Memorial window are depictions of WWII victims who were killed during the Nazi occupation. The Libration window also commemorates the Netherlands’ liberation from the German and Japanese occupiers.

Oude Kerk & the Alterie

After the Catholic Reformation in Amsterdam during the late 16th century, the church was looted and defaced on multiple occasions. This stripped the church of much of its original decorations save for a few paintings. The thieves couldn’t reach them as they were installed high up under the vaults. After the Reformation, the church was used as a meeting house for the public. People would come here to escape the cold and the rain to gossip, sell their goods, and it was even used as a de-facto homeless shelter.

In the 17th century, the church was reconsecrated and been given a fresh coat of paint. New decorations were installed, including a new oak screen which referred to the desecration during Reformation. It states, “The prolonged misuse of God’s church, was here undone again in the year seventy-eight.”

Rembrandt & Oude Kerk

One of the most famous Dutch painters, Rembrandt himself, was a frequent visitor to the Oude Kerk. All of his children were baptized inside the temple, and it is one of the few original buildings left in Amsterdam where the painter roamed the halls. His wife, Saskia van Uylenburgh was buried here in 1642 inside the Holy Sepulchre. Another famous figure buried is naval hero Jacob van Heemskerck who was a central figure in Rembrandt’s masterpiece The Night Watch.

Today, the church is used as a contemporary art gallery where the ancient architecture is the backdrop for modern art. Entry into the church costs €12 for adults and €7 for students; children under 13 are free. On Sunday mornings, the church still opens its doors for worshippers for free but only for those serious about coming in to pray.

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 57

Across the bridge from the Oude Kerk at #57 is a gorgeous example of Amsterdam Renaissance architecture made by the famous architect Hendrick de Keyser. They call the house the De Gecroonde Raep. It features one of the finest examples of stepped gables in Amsterdam. With these gorgeous scalloped stone carvings above each step. The facade also features these beautiful brace arches above the windows with smallmasks set into the pediments. Iconic features of Keyser are the double pilasters with cartouches set in between the brick pillars.

Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (Our Lord in the Attic Museum)

Hidden behind an otherwise simple brick facade is an example of a “schiller” or “clandestine church.” After the Reformation, Catholics needed to practise their religion undercover. A few old houses on the canal were converted into these secret churches. This church went by the name Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (Our Lord in the Attic Museum). It was built by a Catholic merchant in 1663 who transformed his third-floor attic space into the beautiful yet cramped religious wonderland you find today. Personally, I adore the pink-painted balustrades and railings, such a unique touch.

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Visiting the Museum

After Catholics could practice in public once more, the church was exposed and opened as a museum in 1888. This makes it the second oldest museum in Amsterdam. Today, it remains a museum visited by over 85,000 people annually. In addition to viewing the secret church, you can also tour the 17th-century merchant canal house interior. Tickets are €14 for adults and €7 for children and students.

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 18

House at #18 bears a striking (if not a simplified version) of the house saw a few doors down at #57. The curved arches above double pilasters are a clear sign of the work of Hendrick de Keyser. Above the third floor, there are face masks, but on the lower levels, we find lion masks. Above the stone gable is a relief depicting the legendary castle of Egmond aan den Hoef.

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 14

The Het Wapen van Riga, at #14, is a 17th-century merchant’s house. In the center, we find relief of the coat of arms of the country of Riga. The original house was built for a wealthy merchant who was indeed from Riga and this emblem was a way of paying homage to his home. The lions are a powerful symbol of the city of Riga. Two golden lions on a grey plinth were thought to symbolizes the strong foundation of the city and the bravery of its citizens. You can also find two of Riga’s lion heads protruding off either side of the stone gable on the first floor.

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Oudezijds Kolk

Walk over and stand on the old Armbrug bridge to look out over the Oudezijds Kolk. During the Middle Ages, most of the canals in Amsterdam looked more like this canal. The old canals didn’t feature any sidewalks or laneways as the primary mode of transport was solely boats. When the newer canals around the canal belt were built, the boom of horse-drawn carriages had taken over. These canals were built to feature roads for horses and eventually cars to travel along. This canal is one of the last remains medieval canals in Amsterdam and a gem to treasure.

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Weeping Tower of Amsterdam

At the end of the Oudezijds Kolk canal, you will find the largest of the three remaining medieval city towers. It goes by the Weeping Tower of Amsterdam. The legend goes that the wives of the sailors who were off to sea would come up to the tower to wave their last goodbye. Tears obviously ensued, echoing down the canals. The life of a sailor was a tough one as storms, scurvy, war, and pirates were all things that a sailor would come up against at sea. And most of these wives knew that upon saying goodbye there was a good chance they would never return.

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This brings us to the end of our canal tour of Amsterdam. Hopefully, you’ve discovered more about the history, architecture, canals, and culture spread out across the waterways throughout our day together. There are so many more secrets to be found down all the different side canals in this city so let me know if you want to share some of your favourite spots!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Amsterdam Canal Tour On Foot first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Is the Red Light District Safe?
2. When to do the Tour?
3. Red Lights After Covid?
4. History of the Red Light District
5. What Not to do in the Red Light District
6. Grimburgwal
7. Oudezijds Voorburgwal
8. House at the Three Canals
9. Agnietenkapel
10. Dollebegijnensteeg
11. Trompettersteeg
12. Sex Worker Monument
13. The Oude Kerk
14. Geldersekade
15. Amsterdam's Chinatown
16. Fo Guang Shan He Hua Temple
17. Waag
18. Nieuwmarkt
19. Bloedstraat
20. Kloveniersburgwal
21. Dutch East India Company
22. Oude Doelenstraat

Is the Red Light District Safe?

Thanks to government regulations on prostitution, the trade is now legal inside sanctioned brothels. These laws helped shadier businesses flee the area. In the 1980s, the Red Light District got a bad rap for being a hub of illegal hard drugs. But after a large-scale police crackdown, the area almost immediately changed. In fact, today the Red Light District is actually one of the safest parts of Amsterdam since policemen and bodyguards patrol the streets at night.

When to do the Tour?

You can easily make an entire half-day out of the tour. I would say to start at midday as the architecture is great to explore during the day. But as night creeps in, you’ll get to be amazed at the beautiful neon lights that transform the canals into almost another world. Anytime after 11 pm is when the real action occurs. So if you’d rather avoid that, you can quickly head back to your hotel once the sun goes down. This tour does not go into details about procuring any sex workers in the Red Light District. This guide is focused on the history, architecture, art and culture that has developed out of the famed neighbourhood. That being said, sex work has been a huge part of the history of the area. Be advised that some information presented in the tour will go into this adult subject matter.

Red Lights After Covid?

On the heels of Covid-19, the city council of Amsterdam set out to do something they had been trying to do for ages. And that was to move the Red Light District out of the city centre. The council claimed the move was “necessary to change the type of tourists attracted to Amsterdam.”

But this idea was roundly rejected by the actual sex workers. Their prime location in the Red Light District meant that finding customers was an easy task. A move further out into the off-skirts of town would mean less foot traffic and fewer customers. Sex workers need to see a high turnover of customers each night to make a decent living wage. A reduction in the constant stream of people greatly affects their bottom line. Currently, the proposal has passed, but only time will tell to see if the customer and business will indeed move out of the area or not.

History of the Red Light District

The area of town that is now dubbed the Red Light District is officially named De Wallen. “De Wallen” was the medieval city center of Amsterdam. Where other medieval city centres have been transformed into pristine, curated living museums, De Wallen is still full of life and urban action! The bustling Damrak, which today is one of the city’s busiest streets, was once a large water-filled canal. It was the largest of all the channels, dug out around 1270. The Damrak was constructed as a large harbour for incoming ships. The surrounding canals had defensive walls built around them to protect the goods being imported into the Damrak. This is where the name De Wallen comes from, meaning “the walls.” 

The Dawn of the Red Light District

Historically because of proximity to the harbour, the area has always been a hub for prostitution. Sailors coming into port looking for an evening of action while away from home. But as the trade began to grow in popularity, the church finally started to take notice. The church started its campaign to remove such activity from their city as early as the 15th century. In 1413 the law stated that after a prostitute received two warnings for her actions, she would be buried alive as punishment for her illicit affairs. Other penalties included cutting off a women’s ear for sleeping with any man who wasn’t her husband. Seeing a woman on the street with one ear was the scarlet letter of the time in Amsterdam.

Finally, in 1578 they had all sex workers were banned from working. But like anything which gets banned, the trade simply when underground. For years, this continued, with prostitutes soliciting customers on the street or inside pubs and inns. While sex work was still technically illegal, it was often ignored and loosely tolerated by the authorities.

Gambling Houses Make Room for Brothels

By the 18th century, sex workers were commonly found working inside Amsterdam’s famous gambling houses located in De Wallen. Most of the men who visited these gambling houses were actually aristocrats. Looking to cut loose and escape the trappings of their tight-laced life. But when the sex workers would bring the men back to their filthy homes, the men were less than impressed. The gambling houses saw this as an opportunity. They offered to build luxurious brothel rooms for the women inside their establishments. This was thought to be a great idea as it kept the men close at hand. Should they finish up and want to return to the gambling tables. The authorities agreed to the arrangement but let’s face it, they were most likely paid off to look the other way.

The Napoleonic Health Crusade

By 1811 the ban on street prostitution was officially lifted thanks in part to Napoleon. French soldiers were frequently stationed in Amsterdam and, of course, would find themselves at the brothels. But before there were National health clinics, diseases like syphilis ran rampant through the brothels. Infecting any visiting soldiers. As there was no cure for syphilis at the time, soldiers would find themselves dying from a casual night out. Knowing there was no stopping such “interactions” between the soldiers and sex workers, and seeing how many good men he was losing, Napoleon’s government thought up a solution. They began doing health checks, bringing doctors inside the brothels. They ensured better sanitary regulations to help prevent the spread of disease. If you were deemed healthy, sex workers were given a red card to carry with them. This indicated to anyone that they were permitted to work and were disease-free.

The Name ‘Red Light District’

The name ‘Red Light District’ began to be used in the 19th-century when brothel-owners began to use red gas lamps as an informal way to alert potential customers to their businesses. Today, they have done away with the idea of gas lamps but replaced them with the prominent use of red neon lights. Come nighttime, these lights flood the streets and canals and give the area its iconic appearance.

Red Lights in the 21st Century

You might be asking or just curious to know, “is sex work legal in the 21st century?” Paid sex between adults (18+) is now legalized in the Netherlands. So long as it occurs inside an approved “window” or gentleman’s club. Any sex worker is free to refuse service to anyone. Customers are often given a laundry list of rules to follow when engaging in these sexual activities. It’s imperative to discuss that while much of this work might be legal, illegal sex trafficking is still an ongoing issue. We will have the chance to learn more about that later, as many institutions in the Red Light District are passionate about ending these criminal actions and advocating for the safety and rights of consensual sex workers.

What Not to do in the Red Light District

During the day, you won’t need to worry about these tips but come the neighbourhood’s transformation during the evening it’s best to follow these pointers;

• NEVER take pictures of the women in the windows. It is forbidden to do so, and some workers are known to keep a cup of pee on hand to throw at such “law” breakers. Picture taking breaks the anonimity of these women and can expose them to real safety problems. There are places where you can snap a photo of the area without risking the exposure of any women’s safety
• While the area is much safer than it used to be, I would still advise you to leave your valuables back at all the hotel
• The area is super touristy, and with tourist crowds come pickpockets. Be so be sure to keep an eye on your bags, keep money concealed and avoid open purses
• Anyone visiting on their own is a target, so be sure to walk with friends or join a tour group
• Like anywhere in Amsterdam, don’t accept drugs from anyone on the street

Grimburgwal

We start our tour on the outskirts of the Red Light District, along the Grimburgwal. The Grimburgwal marks the entrance to the Medieval centre of Amsterdam. This narrow watery passageway connects the great Oudezijds Voorburgwal to the Amstel river via the Rokin canal. The name “Grimburgwal” comes from the word “grim,” which means “muddy ditch” and “burgwal” which means earthen wall. This part of the city was home to this large earthen wall dug out along the muddy waters used to protect the medieval city. The wall was destroyed in 1384 during the city’s expansion. The Grimburgwal remained the city’s southern canal border until 1425 when the canal belt began to be constructed. It’s a small, almost forgettable canal today, but its rich history is something to take note of.

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Oudezijds Voorburgwal

The Grimburgwal ends at the Sleutelbrug bridge, which looks out over the entrance to the Oudezijds Voorburgwal canal. The Oudezijds Voorburgwal means “old city walls,” as this area was where the defensive ramparts continued around the old medieval city. The canal was originally nothing more than a little creek but was dug out to create this large waterway in the 14th century. As the canal was one of the first large expansions, it is where we can find some of the oldest buildings in Amsterdam. Despite the fact that today the area is known for its illicit activities, in the middle ages, the area was where you could find a large number of monasteries, churches and religious institutions.

During the 17th century, many wealthy Catholic merchants made this part of the city their home. Back then, the area was nicknamed the “Velvet defence-canal“. Sort of a dig at the rich merchants who lived here who were known for dressing in fancy velvet clothing.

House at the Three Canals

At the intersection of the Oudezijds, the Achterburgwal and the Grimburgwal, we find the Huis Aan De Drie Grachten or House on the Three Canals. Name because it is located at this meeting point of these three famous waterways. This house is so fantastical, designed in high Dutch Renaissance style. I especially love the large leaded glass window and set-in brick arches above them. The charming red wooden shutters making it so classical Dutch looking. The house was originally two separate lots built around 1610!

The house was designed for bricklayer Claes Adriaensz van Delft. Seeing as it was made for a bricklayer it is only appropriate that the bricks on this house are among the most impressive parts of the entire building. During the 1930s, a bookstore was opened in the house. Inside, the various bookshelves hid behind them, secret compartments where Jewish people on the run from the Germans could hide. These hidden compartments were only discovered in 2005 during renovations to the building. Adding to the already illustrious history of the building.

Agnietenkapel

Behind this grand arched entrance, is the doorway into the old Agnietenkapel, also known as the Chapel of the Convent of Saint Agnes. This is one of the oldest structures in the city, dating back to 1470. In the 15th century, the area along the southern half of Oudezijds Voorburgwal canal was called the stille zijde or the “quiet side.” This so-called peaceful part of town became popular with religious institutions looking for a monastic place to build their home. Away from the hustle and bustle of the raucous trade center. Very ironic today that all these churches are now located in what would be considered the most unholy neighbourhoods, the Red Light District.

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Athenaeum Illustre

In 1578, when the Catholic city government was deposed in favour of the Protestant one, all Catholic churches and monasteries were demolished. This was called the Alteratie, or the “alternative.” But the Agnietenkapel was thought to be too beautiful to be destroyed. Instead, in 1631 it was converted into the Athenaeum Illustre. The Athenaeum Illustre, or Amsterdamse Atheneum, was a city-sponsored ‘illustrious school.’ An Athenaeum Illustre was neither a university nor just a school. It fell somewhere between where it would teach at an academic level, but there were no degrees given out. In the 17th century, each province was only allowed one official university, and Holland already had a university at Leiden. It wasn’t until 1815 that it was recognized as an official academic institution where diplomas could be given out. Leading to its transformation into the University of Amsterdam.

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Church Gate

The Agnietenpoort or Church Gate is fantastically carved with so many ornaments placed along the archway. You can see why they decided to preserve it when it changed hands from the church. On the top, set into a large shield is the Amsterdam coat of arms. The coat of arms of Amsterdam consists of a red shield (here just plain stone) with three silver Saint Andrew’s Crosses down the middle highlighted by a black pale. The black pale symbolizes the Amstel River, while the three crosses represent the three dangers of Old Amsterdam: fire, floods and the Black Death. St. Andrew is the patron saint of Amsterdam as he is the patron saint of fisherman as the city was originally just a small fishing village.

Surrounding the coat of arms is typical Vredeman de Vries motifs. Hans Vredeman de Vries was a Dutch Renaissance architect best known for his publication in 1583 on garden designs. Inside this book were many drawings of floral ornamentations that have since been referenced ever since on buildings all over the city. A large cartouche frames the emblem with the year 1631 below and a roaring lion on top. The Dutch Republic Lion was the badge of the Union of Utrecht and a precursor of the current coat of arms of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. You’ll find lion symbols all over the city to represent this ancient heraldry.

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Stadsbank van Lening

Pawnshops have truly been around forever! Proof positive of this fact is the old Municipal Pawnshop found along the canal. This building was established in Amsterdam in 1616. It was created as a municipal charity to protect poor people from shady loan sharks. These loan sharks would lend out money at a sky-high interest rate that made it impossible to ever pay back and get out of debt. The Amsterdam Municipal Pawnshop was started as a not-for-profit city bank that still operates today! It is considered the oldest bank in Amsterdam and one of the oldest banks in the world!

Above the doorway, you’ll find the city coat of arms topped by the Emperor’s crown. In gold lettering, along the pediment over the doorway, is a poem in Dutch. It reads, “Have you neither money nor property, pass this door. Have you the last, and do you miss the first, come to me. Give pledge, I give you money, why should I guarantee you? Or isn’t it enough that you live off mine? But if you return your pledge, you must take care in time. That my principal will return with interest. I help you and me and show it to the investigators. Of my secrets, the grave of forgotten usurers.“

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The Prinsenhof

Another holy institution located along the Oudezijds Voorburgwal was the St. Cecilia Monastery. The original church was built in the early 15th century but after the Alteratie, the Catholic institution was converted into the city’s Prinsenhof in 1581. It was named the ‘Prinsenhof‘ after Prince William of Orange. In the late 16th century, the prince of Orange was the ruler of the Netherlands and would often use the building as his primary residence. It was later used as the Admiralty in the 17th century.

Prinsenhof as City Hall

In 1808 King Louis Bonaparte pulled the old switcharoo and wanted to convert the beautiful Dam City Hall into his Royal Palace. This meant the city needed to find a new location for its city hall. Seeing as the Prinsenhof was little used at this time, it was selected as their new City Hall. The building was used as accommodation for visiting dignitaries, mayors and, of course, city council meetings. When the city council moved in, the building saw a huge change in the architecture to suit its new function.

Amsterdam School Style

The new style of architecture which came out of the building of the new city hall was called, “Amsterdam School Style.” Like all variations of Dutch architecture, it heavily featured brickwork. The use of bricks is the primary building material in Amsterdam is due to the fact that the city’s access to clay. Clay is found in abundance around the rivers which encircle the city. Amsterdam School structures are also characterized by a rounded appearance, as demonstrated here by the curved facade bowing out towards the canal. The style also tended to favour decorative masonry, wrought iron accents, spires and ‘ladder’ windows. The style is slightly reminiscent of the Art Deco design aesthetic but with a Dutch interpretation. The decorative masonry here features large artistic pillars along the first floor. They depict men and women as symbols correlating to administrative virtues such as simplicity, courage, and diligence.

City Hall Public Urinal

Across from Oudezijds Voorburgwal #195 is a small brick and stone cylindrical structure which is actually a public urinal! A urinal probably seems like a very strange thing to make a point to visit. But this urinal has become an actual National Monument. It was built in 1926 and renovated for the new City hall. The urinal was designed to fit into the same uniform Amsterdam school style as the City Hall. Right on top of the urinal entrance, you’ll find another sculpture designed by artist Hildo Krop. This sculpture matches the same sculptures on the pillars outside the City Hall. If nature calls, men can still use the rudimentary bathroom today!

Oudezijds Voorburgwal #187

The Dutch Classical black brick building at #187 has a very interesting gable design, specifically around the ornate claw pieces. The house was built in 1663 for an American tobacco trader. We can tell the house was designed for a merchant working in the Americas because of the imagery featured in the claw pieces. We can see sculptures of the merchant’s enslaved Africans holding tobacco leaves. Above them are pictured personifications of indigenous workers carrying large harvest baskets. 

Amsterdam’s Architecture of Colonial Exploitation

Many parallels can be drawn between America’s colonization and the enslavement of the African people to the Netherlands’ own dark colonial past. Everyone knows that the “Dutch Golden Age” was the city’s great boom in the 17th century brought about by its free and tolerant society and its enormous trading empire. With the creation of the Dutch East India Company, the Netherlands had an empire of ships that roamed the coastlines of Asia and Africa.

But it wasn’t just spice and silks they brought home. They also colonized countries and robbed them of their natural resources. And although the Dutch didn’t bring slaves back to their home country, the colonies suffered through a period of around 200 years of slavery until it was abolished in 1863. While houses like this and other images of slavery are tough to observe, it’s essential to understand and accept this period of Amsterdam’s history. You can learn a lot more about Amsterdam’s Architecture of Colonial Exploitation in this great article!

Oudezijds Voorburgwal #136

The house on Oudezijds Voorburgwal #136 was first built in the 16th century. Above the doorway, there is an iconic wooden relief featuring the famous navy officer Admiral Cornelis Tromp. Cornelis Maartenszoon Tromp lived in Amsterdam but never at this particular residence. In fact, the relief wasn’t installed until well after his death. The house was purchased by trader Jan Pranger who had a great reverence for Cornelis Tromp as a fellow sea traveller.

Tromp can be seen in his heroic pose, his hand resting on a large globe above a scrolled nautical chart in the background. The relief was hidden for years when the house was converted into a printing shop that covered up the old plaque. In the 1990s, when the house was being refurbished, the old emblem was released, and they went about restoring the brightly painted colours to their former glory. The house basement was converted into a sex shop in 1980 but today the house serves as the headquarters for the green energy initiative in Amsterdam.

Dollebegijnensteeg

While the majority of the canals and streets we’ve seen so far bear no resemblance to anything you’d imagine the Red Light District to look like, Dollebegijnensteeg indeed does. Even during the day, this area screams sex work. Mainly due to the graffiti paintings of a scantily clad woman along the walls. This alley is a hub for window prostitution. During the day, the windows remain dark. But you can peer inside and see their stools or chairs, empty beds and bare interiors.

In the evening, women rent out these windows from the brothel owner on a nightly basis. They will turn their red lights on to display the fact they are open for service. If you see a window at night with the shade drawn, this means they are currently “servicing” a client. Visiting during the day is a great way to peek inside this world without it seeming too overwhelming. At night the atmosphere in these narrow alleyways can feel intimidating even for those just there to observe.

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Bulldog Coffeeshop

The Bulldog Coffeeshop is a famous landmark in the neighbourhood as it is the oldest “coffee shop” in Amsterdam. It was established in 1974 as a secret “speakeasy” for soft drugs. Despite multiple raids over the years, eventually, the city began to tolerate the sale of these drugs. Many people think marijuana is legal in Amsterdam, and surprisingly that’s not the case. But it is generally accepted, even by the police, who look the other way. The original location is worth visiting as you can discover more about the history of cannabis in Amsterdam inside.

Even if you don’t partake in the consumption, you can’t visit Amsterdam without seeing what these “coffee shops” are all about. Plus, this location has a full menu with food and drink options that don’t contain any drugs. I myself don’t partake but still had a blast checking them out and seeing what a comfortable, friendly atmosphere I was greeted with inside.

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Trompettersteeg

Almost so narrow it’s barely noticeable is Trompettersteeg. Located right beside Bulldog Coffee Shop. Trompettersteeg or Trumpets Alley is the narrowest alley in the city. Historically this alley is where some of the highest-priced sex workers display themselves in their windows. But in recent years, it has become one of the most photographed places in the Red Light District. But not for the reasons you might expect. Especially when everyone has a camera on their phone, banning photos in the entire Red Light District has become very challenging. But taking a picture of these women at work is really degrading. It makes them feel like they are in a zoo and not human beings. It also is a huge safety issue as most sex workers prefer to remain anonymous for a variety of reasons.

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#No F*cking Photos

To help detract from this photo-taking frenzy a local artist was enlisted to create a series of murals. These were aimed to address the subject and help educate people on the dangers of a simple selfie. The project was called “Respect the Ladies.” But the iconic hashtag #NoF*ckingPhotos was used to really hammer the message across. The project is the first thing you see upon entering the alley. It urges tourists to respect sex workers and not take any photos of them. Instead, get a shot of the mural before entering if you must document the moment. Then, quickly put your phone away. This idea of giving people a spot to take their photos without infringing on the rights and privacy of the sex workers seems to have helped out for the time being. Just another example of how street art can be so influential.

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Bronze breastplate sculpture

Hiding right outside the largest church in Amsterdam is a small, flat sculpture laid into the ground. You might even step right over it if you don’t know what you’re looking for. I’ve marked it on the map, so you know exactly where to go. Right under the shadow of the church lies a bronze sculpture depicting a hand cupping a nude breast. The statue was placed here in 1993 by an anonymous artist. The breastplates sculpture is thought to pay homage to the hard-working women when working in the Red Light District. There are actually several bronze sculptures around Amsterdam, all of which were placed there without permission. Like the predecessor to Banksy.

Despite the city council raging against these illegally placed sculptures, the public appreciation for them was wildly popular. The story is that when the city was about to have the statues removed, the artist came forward in private and revealed themselves to the city council alone. After that, the sculptures were deemed to be approved, and they were all left in place. One can only wonder what kind of artists would have that kind of pull over the city council. Some people even suspect it was Queen Beatrix herself. But for now, it remains a mystery.

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Sex Worker Monument

Continuing around the back of the church, you will find a minature bronze statue that goes by the name “Belle.” Belle also represents all sex workers. She was installed by the nearby Prostitute Information Centre. Even in the shadow of the church, Belle stands in the nude, tall and proud. Ashamed of nothing. Fierce and defiant. Below her name is the inscription, “Respect sex workers all over the world.“

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The Oude Kerk

The crowing glory of the Oudezijds Voorburgwal canal is the grand Oude Kerk. The Oude Kerk or “Old Church” is named as such because is the oldest religious institution in the city. The first wooden part of the structure was constructed here in 1213! Originally the church was named St. Nicolas Church after the patron saint of the city.

The area they selected for the church was a sold mound in the otherwise marshy settlement. This allowed the church to grow in size without requiring much additional foundation work. Today the church sprawls out over 36,000 sq ft. Each generation of Amsterdam’s religious elite seemed to have added their own personal touch in its expansion. In the 14th century, the side aisle was lengthened, and the great medieval wooden vaults were installed. These remain to this day are the oldest medieval wooden vault in all of Europe. The vaults were made out of great Estonian oak planks. Some of the plants were stained in various colours to look like paintings on the ceiling. Bands of florals surround each part of the vault with golden stars decorating the keystones. These vaults are still thought to provide some of the best acoustics even amongst the more modern churches.

Miracle of Amsterdam

In the 14th century, the church was the site of the “Miracle of Amsterdam.” One day, a dying man accepted the sacramental bread during communion. But after ingesting it, he began to vomit it up in a fit of pain. When the priests threw the vomit into the fire, the bread did not burn, and the act was proclaimed a miracle. Even stranger than the miracle itself was the fact that the vomitted bread was preserved in a relic chest and kept inside the church. Sadly their miracle relic was one of the many items which disappeared during the Alterie.

Stained Glass

In the 15th century, a north and south transept were added to change the floorplan of the church into a cross shape. The beautiful large windows inside the church were installed in 1406 and were once covered in vibrant stained glass. More and more windows were added over the years, totalling 33 large-scale artfully made scenes. Sadly during the great fire of 1536 and the gunpowder explosion in 1654, all of these original windows were destroyed.

Most of the windows are now plain glass replacements but, beginning in the 20th century, these windows began to be restored. Using paintings, drawings and historical architectural plans, the church museum started to create modern interpretations of the ancient windows. There were created by artist Joep Nicolas. The windows depict various biblical stories, such as the Parable of the Prodigal Son and the story of baby Moses. But they also commissioned some modern, secular scenes as well. Inside the Memorial window are depictions of WWII victims who were killed during the Nazi occupation. The Libration window also commemorates the Netherlands’ liberation from the German and Japanese occupiers.

Oude Kerk & the Alterie

After the Catholic Reformation in Amsterdam during the late 16th century, the church was looted and defaced on multiple occasions. This stripped the church of much of its original decorations save for a few paintings. The thieves couldn’t reach them as they were installed high up under the vaults. After the Reformation, the church was used as a meeting house for the public. People would come here to escape the cold and the rain to gossip, sell their goods, and it was even used as a de-facto homeless shelter.

In the 17th century, the church was reconsecrated and been given a fresh coat of paint. New decorations were installed, including a new oak screen which referred to the desecration during Reformation. It states, “The prolonged misuse of God’s church, was here undone again in the year seventy-eight.”

Rembrandt & Oude Kerk

One of the most famous Dutch painters, Rembrandt himself, was a frequent visitor to the Oude Kerk. All of his children were baptized inside the temple, and it is one of the few original buildings left in Amsterdam where the painter roamed the halls. His wife, Saskia van Uylenburgh was buried here in 1642 inside the Holy Sepulchre. Another famous figure buried is naval hero Jacob van Heemskerck who was a central figure in Rembrandt’s masterpiece The Night Watch.

Today, the church is used as a contemporary art gallery where the ancient architecture is the backdrop for modern art. Entry into the church costs €12 for adults and €7 for students; children under 13 are free. On Sunday mornings, the church still opens its doors for worshippers for free but only for those serious about coming in to pray.

Prostitution Information Center

The perfect antithesis to visiting the Old Church is to pay a visit to the neighbouring Prostitution Information Center. The Prostitution Information Center or PIC for short, was established in 1994 by ex-sex worker Mariska Majoor. Sadly, Majoor became a sex worker at the young age of 16. But she took this hardship and turned it into the fire that fuelled her. She became a huge activist, fighting for the rights and legal protection of sex workers. In fact, she was instrumental in changing the Dutch laws regarding prostitution. Inside the Prostitute information center, you can learn more about the social conditions working in the sex industry. This centre doesn’t aim to glamourize the sector but rather be open and honest about all aspects of the work.

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De Wallenwinkel

Right beside the PIC, you’ll find the Red Light District Store, also run by the PIC. The shop goes by the name De Wallenwinkel and inside you’ll find lots of books, maps, guides and more. The money spent inside the store helps support the health and wellbeing of all sex workers in De Wallen. Even if you just buy a little souvenir map of the area, it goes a long way to support the centre.

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Oudezijds Voorburgwal 57

Across the bridge from the Oude Kerk at #57 is a gorgeous example of Amsterdam Renaissance architecture made by the famous architect Hendrick de Keyser. They call the house the De Gecroonde Raep. It features one of the finest examples of stepped gables in Amsterdam. With these gorgeous scalloped stone carvings above each step. The facade also features these beautiful brace arches above the windows with smallmasks set into the pediments. Iconic features of Keyser are the double pilasters with cartouches set in between the brick pillars.

Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (Our Lord in the Attic Museum)

Hidden behind an otherwise simple brick facade is an example of a “schiller” or “clandestine church.” After the Reformation, Catholics needed to practise their religion undercover. A few old houses on the canal were converted into these secret churches. This church went by the name Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (Our Lord in the Attic Museum). It was built by a Catholic merchant in 1663 who transformed his third-floor attic space into the beautiful yet cramped religious wonderland you find today. Personally, I adore the pink-painted balustrades and railings, such a unique touch.

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Visiting the Museum

After Catholics could practice in public once more, the church was exposed and opened as a museum in 1888. This makes it the second oldest museum in Amsterdam. Today, it remains a museum visited by over 85,000 people annually. In addition to viewing the secret church, you can also tour the 17th-century merchant canal house interior. Tickets are €14 for adults and €7 for children and students.

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 18

House at #18 bears a striking (if not a simplified version) of the house saw a few doors down at #57. The curved arches above double pilasters are a clear sign of the work of Hendrick de Keyser. Above the third floor, there are face masks, but on the lower levels, we find lion masks. Above the stone gable is a relief depicting the legendary castle of Egmond aan den Hoef.

Brouwerij De Prael

If you need to take a break, one of the best places to grab some lunch and a beer is at the Brouwerij de Prael. Brouwerij De Prael is a Dutch microbrewery established in 2002 by Arno Kooy and Fer Kok. It is a beautiful local brewpub with over 3,000 different labels as well as its own microbrews. Here you can enjoy a tasting of 4 beers for €10,00 per person in the most enjoyable atmosphere!

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Oudezijds Voorburgwal 14

The Het Wapen van Riga, at #14, is a 17th-century merchant’s house. In the center, we find relief of the coat of arms of the country of Riga. The original house was built for a wealthy merchant who was indeed from Riga and this emblem was a way of paying homage to his home. The lions are a powerful symbol of the city of Riga. Two golden lions on a grey plinth were thought to symbolizes the strong foundation of the city and the bravery of its citizens. You can also find two of Riga’s lion heads protruding off either side of the stone gable on the first floor.

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Oudezijds Kolk

Walk over and stand on the old Armbrug bridge to look out over the Oudezijds Kolk. During the Middle Ages, most of the canals in Amsterdam looked more like this canal. The old canals didn’t feature any sidewalks or laneways as the primary mode of transport was solely boats. When the newer canals around the canal belt were built, the boom of horse-drawn carriages had taken over. These canals were built to feature roads for horses and eventually cars to travel along. This canal is one of the last remains medieval canals in Amsterdam and a gem to treasure.

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Weeping Tower of Amsterdam

At the end of the Oudezijds Kolk canal, you will find the largest of the three remaining medieval city towers. It goes by the Weeping Tower of Amsterdam. The legend goes that the wives of the sailors who were off to sea would come up to the tower to wave their last goodbye. Tears obviously ensued, echoing down the canals. The life of a sailor was a tough one as storms, scurvy, war, and pirates were all things that a sailor would come up against at sea. And most of these wives knew that upon saying goodbye there was a good chance they would never return.

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Geldersekade

After reaching the Weeping Tower, turn back down south along the Geldersekade canal. The Geldersekade canal was part of the original city moat, dugout at the end of the 15th century. This canal makes up the borders of Amsterdam’s Chinatown. Chinatown isn’t honestly the most appropriate name for the area, as many different Asian cultures and cuisines are represented here. 

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Amsterdam’s Chinatown

Amsterdam’s Chinatown is the oldest Chinese and Asian neighbourhood in Europe, dating back to 1910. The first Chinese immigrants came to the Netherlands in the 1900s as sailors and stockers on large Dutch steamships. These Chinese immigrants had a tough life. In the early 20th century are they were forced to stay inside tiny cramped boarding houses along the edge of the city. Many of these original boarding homes were located along Binnen Bantammerstraat. When the Chinese sailors were too old to work on the ships, they began selling peanut cookies on the streets to make any money. In 1928 the first Chinese restaurant opened up on Bantammerstraat. It was called Kong Hing, and it opened to huge fanfare. Famously, American singer and dancer Josephine Baker visited the restaurant several times. Her picture hung in the restaurant until it closed.

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Chinatown Post WWII

After World War II, many Chinese immigrants were here illegally and couldn’t find work in most above-board establishments. This gave rise to opium dens and gambling houses in Chinatown. Sadly, opium gave rise to heroin which by 1980 was being sold on the streets in this part of town. Giving the area and subsequent Red Light District a notoriously dangerous reputation. During the HIV/AIDS crisis in 1985, the city council aimed to purge the city of these drugs which had really taken hold over the area. After these raids and crackdowns, the area began to flourish once more. Today is a fantastic place to come and enjoy Asian cuisine from a myriad of different countries.

Fo Guang Shan He Hua Temple

Turn right along Stormsteeg and walk along Zeedijk. Towards the southern end of the street, you’ll be remiss to pass by the majestic Fo Guang Shan He Hua Temple, the largest Zen Buddist temple in Amsterdam. In fact, it is the largest Buddist temple in all of Europe! Even though the building was designed by a Dutch architect, the ornaments and roof tiles were flown in from China to ensure the building felt authentic. Look closely along the roof to spot various animal sculptures representing the different symbols of the Chinese zodiac. You are free to enter the temple and admire the lavishly decorated interior. It is complete with a giant statue and shrine to the Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva. 

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Waag

At the end of Zeedijk street, the road opens up into a large public square. Centered in the square is what almost looks like a minature castle. This delightful building is the oldest secular buildings left in Amsterdam, having been constructed in 1488! The name of the building is the “Waag,” which means “weigh.” Over the years, the building has been used as the literal “weighing house” where goods brought in through the canal were weighed and then taxed based on those calculations. It was one of the most important places in Amsterdam in the medieval era as it was where the money came in! In fact, back in the 15th century, the Waag was built into the medieval city walls. Only through these red doors would you be able to center this part of the city.

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The Guilds

The Waag also became the home office of various guilds who took up residency in the different towers. The entrance door on the corners of the building, which still stands today, are marked with stone carvings relating to each of these guilds. In fact, the surgeons guild commissioned a painting of their guildhall by none other than Rembrandt himself! Although you really wouldn’t recognize it immediately as the Waag, the image is set inside the guildhall.

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In De Waag

If you’re interested in getting a peek inside, you can actually dine inside the old Waag building. They have transformed this space into a fantastic restaurant. Walking inside the doors, you are greeted by over 300 candles that float on the chandeliers and all around the room. It’s truly an inspiring space that makes for the perfect romantic evening out.

Nieuwmarkt

In the 17th century, the area around the gatehouse was filled in. This was when the Niewmarkt square was introduced. While the square was a social meeting point for locals throughout the years, one of the most historic memories embedded into the stones was during WWII. It was in this very square was where the Jewish population was rounded up by the Nazis. They were gathered here and then sent off to concentration camps. Most of whom would never return. Today, the square is still a hub of activity with street vendors out throughout the week. On Saturdays, there is a huge food market and on Sundays, you can find an antique and craft fair.

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Bloedstraat

Just off of Nieumarket, take a walk down Bloedstraat. This wide alley is one of the areas in the district where you’ll find blue lights. Red lights in the community are used to denote cis-gendered female sex workers. While blue lights are used to indicate to the customers that the worker inside is a trans-woman.

Compared to the alleys on the other side of the canal, these streets are beautiful and replete with gorgeous Dutch architecture. This makes the fact that during the evening, these windows turn into brothels a true Jekyll and Hyde act. The name “Bloedstraat” translates to “blood street.” The story of the name comes from the fact that this area of town was once the old Friars Minor Monastery. Built in 1464, one of the Monks who lived here built a torture chamber in his room along the street. Rumour has it that inside his victims would be whipped long into the night, the blood spilling out of the doorways and onto the street.

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Kloveniersburgwal

Head back to the Nieumarket and walk south until you reach the edge of the square. At the end of the square is the entrance to the Kloveniersburgwal canal. Kloveniersburgwal means “city wall of the Kloveniers.” The Kloeniers were the name for the municipal guards. It was the job of the guards to patrol the walls around the city. Always on the lookout for any incoming armies or intruders.

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Dutch East India Company

Head back towards our starting point by crossing the Bushuissluis and turning onto Oude Hoogstraat. On the corner of Oude Hoogstraat and Kloveniersburgwal is the fantastical old Dutch East India Company building. In Dutch called the Oost-Indisch Huis. This was the former headquarters of the Dutch East India Company. The company was a conglomerate of various rival Dutch trading companies which all came together to form this monopoly.

The building was designed in 1602. Back then, it was the largest building the city had ever seen. The Oost-Indisch Huis building was multifunctional, serving simultaneously as a warehouse, administrative center, office and auction room. It was built in high Amsterdam Renaissance style. The elegant facade with that gorgeous red brickwork is so iconic of that period of Dutch architecture.

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VOC as the First Company Logo

The company itself was so large it even has its own flag and military army. And it was the first corporation to even design a logo to represent it. The name in Dutch was the Vereenigde Oost-Indische Companie or VOC for short. They used this monogram with interlocking serif letters to form their insignia. The VOC insignia would be used on every piece of material the company owned and produced. This meant notepaper, ships, storage boxes and spice containers. It was also used on cannons, coins and battlements on the Spice Islands they colonized. All as a means of promoting their dominance over the trade industry. For the indigenous residents of these brutally conquered islands, the logo represented nothing but violence, death and danger.

While the VOC is today mainly thought of as a trading company that sold silks, spices and coffee, it is a little know fact that they also financed wars and built plantations all over their colonies. All in order to get cheap or slave labour to produce their spice plants to harvest and sell all over the world. While the building is an impressive and dominant feature of the canal, it is essential to remember how they amassed all this wealth.

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Oude Doelenstraat

This brings us to the end of the tour. If you started the tour later in the day, the night would have crept over the neighbourhood by now. The red lights of the district start to turn come on and it’s incredible how just a few (well, alright, a few hundred) neon lights can transform the canals. From what was once a medieval-looking street corner is suddenly a sultry-looking brothel. If you’re interested in getting some pictures of the neon lights, you’re safe to do so along the Oudezijds Voorburgwal. This bridge is my favourite spot on the Oude Doelenstraat, where you have a view all down the canal. Standing here, you can get a wide shot of the neighbourhood and scenery without focusing on any one window in particular. Just remember, if you can see them, they can see you. And best not to risk taking the shot.

Another photo spot, if you’re interested in finding a great location, is in front of the Erotic Museum. Their museum front has a beautiful neon sign and elegant doorway where you can appropriately get a picture to mark your travels into the Red Light District. And without risking the exposure of any working woman in the area.

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I hope you enjoyed this tour and learned that the Red Light District is so much more than just a novelty, sex-filled street. Instead, it’s a wonderful neighbourhood full of history, culture and fantastic architecture! Let me know in the comments if you have any questions regarding visiting the Red Light District for yourself!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post An Alternative Guide to the Exciting and Historic Red Light District in Amsterdam first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

If you’ve just arrived and wanted something a little more laid back and relaxing, try out this self-guided walking tour of La Condesa. You can easily spend the entire day following this path and making your own stops along the way.

Guided Tour of La Condesa

1. Accessibility
2. La Condesa History
3. Is La Condesa Safe?
4. Map of Walking Tour
5. Chiquitito Café
6. La Esquina del Chilaquiles
7. Michoacan Market
8. García Madero
9. Avenida Mazatlan 
10. Nevería Roxy
11. Los Condesa
12. Lardo
13. Avenida Veracruz
14. Hotel Condesa DF
15. Archivos Plutarco Elías Calles
16. Parque España
17. Avenida Ámsterdam
18. Plaza Citlaltepec
19. Parque México
20. Fuente de Los Cántaros 
21. Lindbergh Open Air Theater
22. Churrería El Moro
23. Art Deco Architecture
24. Edificio Rosa
25. The Edificio San Martín
26. The Basurto Building
27. Edificio Tehuacan
28. Plaza Popocatépetl

Accessibility

This walking tour isn’t very strenuous, there are no uphills to power through and the distance is pretty minimal in total. For anyone who gets tired and there are plenty of places to stop and rest along the way since even the fittest of us can suffer the effects of Mexico City’s elevation. If you’re in a wheelchair or have a mobility aid, the sidewalks of La Condesa are mostly very wide and easy to navigate. Certain areas of the sidewalk were severely damaged by the earthquake but I’ve done my best to make a map of the best sidewalks to go through which have been repaired or restored.

La Condesa History

La Condesa is a small neighbourhood about 5 km outside the city centre. The word “Condesa” means “countess” as this neighbourhood was named after María Magdalena Dávalos de Bracamontes y Orozco, the Countess of Miravalle. The Countess bought a huge expanse of land when she moved to Mexico City. This was her little empire. The area was purchased from a wealthy family, whose last descendants had died. With no children to inherit the land, the Countess was able to buy it all up at a good price. The Countess owned a large manor house to the westernmost point in the city. Today, this old house has been converted into the Russian Embassy. Since the Embassy is highly protected, you can’t really see much of it from the street, so it’s not worth the trek to the west side of town to try to see it.

The Countess rented the land and constructed apartment complexes throughout the new colony. These were specifically geared towards the upper class of Mexico City. The neighbourhood was wealthy enough to afford the best landscape architects and city planners. They made it their goal to create wide, open streets, tree-lined avenues and large, sumptuous parks. Condesa is often called the “lungs” of the city. There are more trees located in this borough than collectively across the rest of the city.

20th Century La Condesa

In the early 20th century, Condesa continued to grow and became a popular place for artists to live. Agustín Lara, a composer of romantic ballads, flamenco dancer Pilar Rioja and painter Juan Soriano all, lived in Condesa. In addition to these artists, many cinema stars of the 40s and 50s also moved into the neighbourhood. Walking along the streets of La Condesa in the 50s was like spotting the whos who of Mexican Hollywood elite.

Mexico City Earthquake

The 1985 Mexico City earthquake had a devastating impact on La Condesa. You can still see some of the damage to this day, particularly along the sidewalks on many unused side streets. Many of the people who lived here couldn’t afford to repair their houses, so some were left abandoned. Other families couldn’t afford to move, so they had to remain living in this destruction zone. The rich and elite of the neighbourhood all moved out to Polanco, which is now the Beverly Hills of Mexico City.

The once affluent neighbourhood was reduced to rubble, and for years it remained one of the cheapest places to live. But cheap rent eventually attracted a younger generation of people to live in the area. They came with ambitions to rise up and revitalize the area. Because no one could afford to tear down old buildings, Condesa’s historic houses are left untouched. Therefore precious art deco and midcentury designs are happily still on display today.

Trendy and bohemian restaurants started to pop up in La Condesa due to the inexpensive real estate. And they were much needed to feed this emerging population. With new bars and restaurants, came more people. Condesa’s restaurants were the first in the city to offer outdoor seating along the sidewalks. Since La Condesa’s sidewalks were designed to be wide and comfortable, there was plenty of room to set up tables along the street. This created an outdoor dining room feeling, of everyone eating together in the neighbourhood. Still today, La Condesa is the hottest spot in the city to find trendy restaurants and chic cafes.

Street Art in Condesa

Urban artists found the empty corners of Condesa to be a blank canvas for their art, and even today, despite the rise of urbanization and gentrification, some of the city’s best street artist’s work can be found along these streets. Unlike simple graffiti tags, these masterpieces are truly spectacular works of art. In addition to being beautiful decorations for the neighbourhood, they also draw in street art tours and curious tourists.

Is La Condesa Safe?

When we booked our first trip to Mexico City, safety was my primary focus when booking a hotel. I heard that of all the neighbourhoods in Mexico City, La Condesa had one of the lowest crime rates while still being near all the big sights. I felt completely comfortable walking alone at night in this area without a second thought, and I’m not one of the bravest people. Things can happen anywhere in the world, that’s for sure, so it’s always good to keep a level head and be aware of your surroundings. But overall, I feel like the hype over Mexico City being dangerous is overblown in the media.

Map of Walking Tour

Chiquitito Café

Start your day with a coffee from Chiquitito Café. The cafe can be found at #232 Alfonso Reyes. Just west of Alfonso Reyes and Aguascalientes street. The cafe opens early in the morning, around 7:30 am. A lot of places in Mexico City don’t open till later, and if you’re like me you want to get out bright and early. This cafe is tiny, but you’ll know where it is immediately by the line out the door.

Their coffee is unbelievably smooth. I’m a bit of a coffee baby and always order a latte or cappuccino and sneak some sugar into it. But at Chiquitito Cage, no sugar was needed, the coffee was just that good. The tables out on the street are perfect for people watching. Street sweepers are cleaning the fallen leaves, tamales sellers are out on their bikes, and school children are off hand in hand with their parents. A wonderfully normal slice of life in Mexican City.

La Esquina del Chilaquiles

After a shot of coffee to wake you up, head over to the corner of Alfonso Reyes and Tamaulipas street. Here you’ll find one of the most delicious street food breakfast options in the entire city. Even before this stands opens, there is a line down the street of locals waiting for this incredible treat; torta de chilaquiles. You NEED to get here early to make sure you don’t miss out on this iconic Condesa treat. Torta de Chilaquiles is a unique Mexican breakfast sandwich. “Chilaquiles” is a Nahuatl word, which means “bathed in chilli.”

This shop has been serving the neighbourhood since 1950 and has been run by generations of the same family. Their torta is made with a large, fresh french roll, as big your forearm. The roll is split open and filled with refried black beans, two types of meat, salsa, and fried corn chips. Finally, it’s finished off with a crumbling of cojita cheese and fresh cream. The entire monstrous sandwich costs only 35 pesos ($1.80 USD)! And you’ll be full for hours! If you don’t have a big appetite you can split it between two or three people.

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Michoacan Market

If you’re interested in visiting a local marketplace, then head up the street to the Michoacán Market. Head northeast on Avenue Tamaulipas for three blocks. Just past Avenue Vicente Suárez you’ll find the market on the corner of Tamaulipas and Avenue Michoacán. The Michoacán Market was built in 1946 and has an amazing Functionalist architectural design. The market is located at the intersection of three of the most important streets in Condesa. This made the marketplace the de facto heart of Condesa. Inside there are twenty-seven different vendors selling everything from fruits and veggies to slow-cooked meals and freshly baked tortillas.

García Madero

Head west for about two blocks on Avenue Michoacán toward Avenue Vicente Suárez. The smell of freshly baked bread will simply draw you into this shop. García Madero Bakery sells small batches of baked sweets and bread right out of this little shop. Once their goods are sold out, the shop closes down, so don’t rely on the official business hours for your chance to taste these amazing baked goods. The owner of the shop was once a lawyer and quit his job to follow his passion for baking. And from his huge popularity, it looks like it has more than paid off. Try their concha, a classic Mexican sweet bread that is recognizable by its seashell textured top. But if you visit in the Spring, try the chocolate-dipped croissants with edible pansy flowers. Spectacular to eat as well as to look at!

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Avenida Mazatlan 

With your delicious sweet bread in hand, wander west across Avenida Vicente Suárez for four blocks until you reach Avenida Mazatlan. The Avenida Mazatlán is a wide stretch of roads with a gorgeous central pedestrian walkway. This walkway is flanked by enormous trees and plants of all kinds. Walking beneath this canopy makes you feel like you’re in a tropical dream. Even on the hottest day, the shade beneath these trees is so refreshing.

The Avenida Mazatlan is full of amazing architectural sights. This street was one of the first where the new Condesa colony expanded, and the buildings along the street represent the styles of architecture as the neighbourhood began to grow. You’ll see designs like neocolonial, functionalist, eclectic and rationalist styles, but especially art deco. There are over 250 buildings along this one street, which are designated as artistic value to the neighbourhood. 

Nevería Roxy

Nevería Roxy can be found just a block north at the intersection of Fernando Montes de Oca and Avenida Mazatlan. This is a neighbourhood establishment that has been serving up ice cream to the community since 1946. In the 50s it was one of the most happening places where famous bullfighters, businessmen, cattlemen and fans would come after the bullfights from the nearby Plaza de Toros Condesa. The ice cream parlour still has the retro charm of the original shop, and although machines and technology have changed, the recipes have not. You can get traditional flavours as well as some exotic Mexican fruit flavoured ones as well. Perfect for a hot day!

Los Condesa

Head northwest on Avenida Mazatlan toward Juan de la Barrera for about three blocks. Just past Juan de la Barrera you’ll see an old white and green painted apartment complex. This series of apartments is called “Los Condesa,” and were the first luxury apartments to be built on the block in 1911. These beautiful apartments drew other wealthy people into the area. They were ostensibly the buildings that founded the neighbourhood. Today the waiting list to live in these apartments, despite their old age, is incredibly long. They are considered historical, and the prestige of living there is quite high.

Lardo

Walk just one block north, on the corner of Avenida Mazatlan and Veracruz street, and you’ll find one of the cutest restaurants in the city. Lardo is a trendy brunch and lunch spot that has some of the very best huevos rancheros in the city! It’s a fantastic blend of traditional ingredients and modern menu items. The hipster vibe inside blends the historical aspects of old Mexico City with the vibrant new ideas and sensibilities which the younger generations are bringing to restaurants and cafes in these old neighbourhoods.

Avenida Veracruz

Continuing on our walking tour, we set out to stroll down Veracruz street. We will be walking east on Avenue Veracruz toward Agustín Melgar for three blocks. A great way to work off that filling lunch! This street is dotted with fantastical old mansions decorated in vibrant colours. These old houses are covered in rich ornamentations and fine ironwork. The area was severely damaged during the 1985 earthquake, and despite the wealth of many of these houses, there is still the occasional abandoned house which displays the damage of that immense quake.

Hotel Condesa DF

At the end of Veracruz Street, just before the park, make a stop at the Hotel Condesa DF. You’ll recognize it right away from their antique, burgundy car, which sits out front. This building is a gorgeous, albeit pretty pricey, hotel, but it was originally built as a great manor house. The architect designed the house in the French neoclassical style in 1928. The columns along the corners of the building are my favourite little detail, as they are covered in ornate carvings. If you’d like to stop in for a drink, the rooftop terrace has a lovely bar with views of the nearby park.

Archivos Plutarco Elías Calles

Walk around the back of Hotel DF, along Guadalajara street to house #104. This is the Archivos Plutarco Elías Calles. This building is another incredible example of Mexican neo-gothic architecture. The mansion was originally designed for the personal secretary to President Álvaro Obregón. The neo-gothic style of architecture was popularized by the great Metropolitan Cathedral in the Zocalo. This style featured pointed arches, stone rosettes, and large stained glass windows. All of which can be seen here. Today this house has been turned into a temporary restaurant but hopefully that becomes a permanent feature so everyone can enjoy the stunning garden inside.

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Parque España

Walk across the street, you’ll find the little brother park to the opulent Parque Mexico, Parque España. Parque España was built in 1921 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the end of the Mexican War of Independence. In the centre of the park, is a great blue abstract sculpture, commemorating Lázaro Cárdenas. Cárdenas was the President of Mexico between 1934 and 1940 and has been revered as “the greatest constructive radical of the Mexican Revolution.” He stands like a beacon in the park, still overseeing his people.

Avenida Ámsterdam

Walk east across the park. You’ll pop out on the other side, on Avenue Nuevo León which runs north/south. Make your way to the street running east/west called Avenue Parras. Head east along this street for just one blocks and you’ll arrive onto Avenida Ámsterdam. The Avenida Ámsterdam is a huge oval road which encircles the grande Parque México. The central walkways lined in great trees are some of the lushest pedestrian avenues anywhere in the city. Because this avenue is mainly residential and seems hidden away from the busy main roads, it’s also one of the most peaceful places in a city. Despite being one of the most populated cities in the world, this area of town feels like you’re in the middle of nowhere.

The Race Track

We’re going to walk south along the ring road for four blocks. The circular aspect of the road was not simply a stylish design. It was for a practical purpose as the road was initially designed for racing. President Diaz inaugurated the race track in 1910. The track hosted both automobile and horse racing, both of which were at the height of their popularity in the early 20th century. Racing was for the elite of Mexican high society as the money they poured into this area can still be seen today.

During the 1920s, in the height of the art deco trend, many manor homes and mansions were built around the racetrack. Even the sidestreets themselves were given the artistic treatment with lamposts and street furniture being designed right into the roadway. This way the entire street looked bespoke. These lamposts and outdoor furniture are still around today for you to sit and chat on while waiting for the light to change. Their fabulous blue tiles are still as vibrant as the day they were installed.

Plaza Citlaltepec

At the southernmost point of the Avenida Ámsterdam is the Plaza Citlaltepec. This small parkette, with a central fountain, might not be very historically famous but it’s my favourite little area of the city. On all sides of the roundabout, there are adorable cafes and restaurants. A kind fruit vendor is always parked on the Avenida Ámsterdam on the west side of the fountain, and I love stopping in there to get a freshly cut mango with spicy chilli and lime! On the north side of the roundabout is a brightly painted, purple hotel which is awesome to marvel at even from the outside. It’s just such a charming slice of Mexico City, and I love coming here.

Parque México

From the park, head north up Citlaltépetl street, for one block, to the southeast corner of the great Parque México. I adore this park. Coming here in the afternoon means the park is absolutely bursting with excitement. Hundreds of dogs are out for their afternoon walk, kids are playing in the large square and lots of locals and tourists are relaxing under the enormity of shade the park provides. Especially during the Jacaranda season, this park is one of the most beautiful places in the city.

They call this park the lungs of the city since there are so many trees here trying to filter out all the city’s pollution. Hereunder these trees are where people in some areas of the city without green space come to “convalesce.”

Instead of being designed based on a rigid, street like a plan, this park was inspired by the great gardens of European palaces. Ponds and walkways weave and sway throughout the nine hectares of parkland. Organic forms are used throughout, and even the benches are designed to look like they are merely a few branches placed together to form a sitting area.

Flora and Fauna

Throughout the park, you’ll see Lebanese cypress, mimosas, and palms. There is also a variety of exotic flora such as bamboo and brightly coloured flowers. Some of these plants were native to the land when the park was constructed, and new varieties were added to make it look as natural as possible. They never wanted anything to feel too purposeful, just natural.

Fuente de Los Cántaros 

Wander north through the first section of the park until you come to Avenue Michoacán, which bisects the park. On the other side of this street, greeting you with a sly smile is the Fuente de Los Cántaros. Fuente de Los Cántaros means fountain of the jugs, and although the indigenous women in the centre is holding two water jugs, you might get an idea why the fountain was nicknamed this for a different reason. The woman who modelled for the statue was Luz Jiménez, who also modelled for Diego Rivera, which is why her face might look so familiar.

Lindbergh Open Air Theater

Behind the fountain, is the enormous Lindbergh Open Air Theater. There has never been a single time I’ve visited here when there weren’t kids out playing soccer in this huge arena. It is never devoid of life. The arena was named after Lindbergh, the first man to make a transatlantic flight. The architect hoped to inspire Mexico City’s youth to reach for the sky just as Lindbergh did! In the centre of the theatre are five geometric pillars designed in the art deco style. On either side of the stage area are two, albeit ageing, frescoes. The surrounding pergola provides shade and the vibrant bougainvillea flowers, which creep over the rooftop, create the most fantastical canopy.

Churrería El Moro

Wander around the park, eating from the various street food stalls and enjoying a short rest under the gorgeous shady trees. If you’d rather avoid street food (although I highly recommend trying it) you can head to Churrería El Moro located just east of the Parque Mexico on Avenue Mexico and Avenue Michoacán. Here you’ll be able to sample a slice of true Mexican history!

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The churro was a dessert brought over by the Spanish, but dipping it inside a cup of hot, thick chocolate sauce, was the way in which the Mexicans made the dish their own! Churrería El Moro is now a chain of churro shops, but the original opened in 1935. Today, the grandchildren of the original owner have opened branches all over Mexico City. The Churrería El Moro in Condesa has comfy rocking chairs and benches to relax on outside, but if the restaurant is full, take your snacks over to the park to enjoy under the warm moonlight in the Lindbergh Open Air Theater. The best place to end the night!

Art Deco Architecture

Once restored, get ready to make your way north along Avenue Mexico. Avenue Mexico was one of the most prestigious real estate spots in the entire city, as the houses along this road overlooked the park. The majority of these buildings were built throughout the 1920s to 40s and maintained a highly stylized art deco theme throughout. Even some of the buildings which are being restored to be transformed into hotels are working hard to maintain their exterior design as the retro look is what draws so many people to this area.

Edificio Rosa

Walking north along Avenue Mexico for half a block to the Edificio-Rosa at #147. The Edificio-Rosa building is worth a stop to see the blush-painted exterior juxtaposed with black wrought iron window bars. The colour combo is truly fabulous. But what I love even more is the incredible typography of the building’s name, spelled out on the exterior.

The Edificio San Martín

Continue north, crossing Teotihuacan Street find #167 Avenue Mexico. This amazing structure is the San Martín Building, designed by Ernesto Buenrostro. The most interesting aspect of this 1930s design is the name of the building, which is cut out into the facade of the exterior! The lobby of the building still has so many of those art deco tiles and details, so if you can get a peek inside without disturbing the doorman, you should try to get a lookie!

The Basurto Building

Continue walking north, crossing Avenue Sonora, where you’ll find the Basurto Building at #187 Avenue Mexico. The Basurto Building is another iconic Bauhaus-style building that is notable mostly for its straights lines, which bend and weave into curving waves. It was designed by architect Francisco J. Serrano in 1945. The building was severely damaged in the 1985 earthquake, but restoration efforts were put underway in recent years to restore this architectural gem!

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Edificio Tehuacan

Just across the street at #188 is the Tehuacán Building. This is probably my favourite of all the art deco structures in this area. It was built in 1931 and was designed bu the same man who made the San Martín Building, Ernesto Buenrostro. What makes Buenrostro so interesting was that he was a Mexican architect who used elements from the art deco styles which were so pervasive around the world but embued in those designs, traditional Mexican elements. On the front of the exterior, blended in with the geometric elements of the architecture are terra-cotta coloured carvings from ancient Aztec culture.

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Plaza Popocatépetl

Walking one more block north along Avenue Mexico, you come to a roundabout, marked with a large fountain. This is the Plaza Popocatépetl. The fountain is named after Popocatépetl, a large volcano in central Mexico. The art deco Popocatépetl fountain was designed in 1927. This fountain is one of my favourites, I love the traditional, Mexican tile works which add texture and interest to the white dome in the centre of the fountain. This is the final point on the tour and a great place to take a rest and reflect on all we saw along the way!

La Condesa is my favourite neighbourhood in the city, and I’d honestly be happy never leaving these streets the entire time, that’s just how amazing this place is. Although following this tour is a great introduction, the best part of La Condesa is exploring hidden streets and finding new amazing restaurants and boutiques for yourself along the way! Please share here your favourite part of La Condesa or let me know where you like to stay when in Mexico City!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post Ultimate Self Guided Tour of La Condesa, Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Watching this video has inspired me to start planning on visiting the market for myself in 2020. This year I’m heading back to Europe at Christmas time to see even more amazing decorations, Christmas lights and amazing marketplace.

The post Dresden Walking Tour Christmas Market first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Access
2. History
3. #1 Have Breakfast at Café Avellaneda
4. #2 Explore the Old Iglesia de Coyoacán
5. #3 Grab a snack in Hidalgo Plaza
6. #4 Have Lunch in Mercado de Coyoacán
7. #5 Learn about Mexico's Pop Culture at the Museo Culturas Populares
8. #6 Take a Walk in Frida’s Footsteps at La Casa Azul
9. #7 See the spot where Leon Trotsky was assassinated
10. #8 Have a pick me up at Cafe El Jarocho
11. #9 Grab some dessert at Helados Coyoacán
12. #10 Wander the historical Avenida Francisco Sosa
13. #11 Find the Golden Church inside the Parque Santa Catarina
14. #12 Relax under the palm tree in Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
15. #13 Get some fresh air Viveros de Coyoacán
16. #14 See a film Cineteca Nacional

Access

The best way to get to Coyaocan, and our first stop on tour, is by Uber. You can also take the Metro, Line 3 to Coyoacan Station, but the station is a bit of a walk from the main areas of the tour. Ubers, as long as you take them outside of peak rush hour, are only about $5 US from the centre of Mexico City.

History

The village of Coyoacán was founded in the 12th century by the Tepanec tribe. This tribe migrated from the Valley of Mexico and settled themselves in Coyoacán. There they shared a common language, Nahuatl, and mythology with the surrounding villages. Unfortunately, despite the common language and culture, the tribes were not allies for long and for centuries they fought against one and other to conquer the land they controlled.

When Hernán Cortés arrived on their shores in 1519 the Tepanec, who hated the native Mexicas, were more than happy to assist him in his mission to conquer them. When the capital of Mexico was moved to Mexico City, Coyoacán remained a quiet village, outside the influence of such political and commercial urbanization. Even today, they do not suffer from the same urban sprawl as the rest of Mexico City. You can find narrows street filled with charming post-colonial architecture amongst ancient cobblestones and gardens.

#1 Have Breakfast at Café Avellaneda

While many places in Coyoacán open later in the morning, Café Avellaneda opens bright and early at 8 am! While this might be a tad early for some, for us morning people it’s a rare find! This quaint cafe is the perfect place to start your day. Start with one of their featured artisan lattes. Coffee in Mexico City is out of this world! Their selection of fresh-baked goods is superb with sweet cakes decorating their window display, enticing customers to come inside. We opted for a full breakfast and got the chilaquiles verde and the daily special pancakes with season fruits! It was absolutely delicious and I cannot recommend it more.