St. Vitus Cathedral - The Creative Adventurer

Easy and Free Walking Tour of Prague’s Famous Royal Route

The Creative Adventurer — Wed, 11 Nov 2020 13:56:35 +0000

Prague is a city full of exciting places to visit, but it is also one of the world’s most walkable destinations. Just wandering around the city, you can experience and explore so much of Prague’s rich history without spending a penny! So whether you’re just looking for a little walkable introduction to the city or looking for a free way to spend an afternoon, a walk down the Royal Route is the ideal way to give yourself a little primer on the history and beauty that is the city of Prague.

The Route

Along this one stretch of road, you’ll find some of the most important landmarks in the city. The Royal Route marks the route which the kings and queens of Prague would have travelled during their coronation procession. They would have begun in Old Town, starting where the former Royal Court was located. The Royal Route continued through to the Charles Bridge, into Mala Strana and finishing at Prague Castle. Despite the route itself being a historical part of the city, the naming convention for the “Royal Route” was a modern tourism invention. The route was named in 1955 when renovations took place to preserve what is now a historically protected pathway.

How Long is the Walk?

The entire span of the Royal Route is about 4 km. While parts of the road in Old Town are relatively flat, the path in Mala Strana is slightly uphill. The Royal Route walk should take no longer than an hour if you didn’t stop. I would plan more time to stop along the way and take in the sights. There are so many unique places to visit along this route.

Tips

Be warned that the parts of town that the Royal Route passes through are super touristy. If you’re looking for something to eat I would always recommend heading off the tourist track. Even just heading off the route down one side street will often make such a difference.

Even though the walking tour isn’t very long, it’s important to wear proper walking shoes as the roads are very uneven and the second half of the tour is a little hilly.

Where to Stay

If you’re looking for a great place to stay along the Royal Route, you’ll be happily surprised to learn that a few of the old historic homes along the route have been transformed into hotels. So you can stay on the very Route where courtiers and dignitaries would have stayed hundreds of years ago. The Grand Hotel Bohemia is a wonderful luxury hotel right on the Route Route with terraces facing out onto the city’s skyline. There really is no better place to get a panoramic view of the city while still in the comforts of your own room. If you’re looking for a more budget-friendly option the Hotel at the Golden Key is located on the historic Nerudova Street. The suites are clean and simple but if you get a room with a city view you’ll be enchanted by the people watching along famed Nerudova street.

History

The very first coronation of a king in Prague took place on June 15th, 1086. But during this time, the seat of the Bohemian kings in Prague was located in Vyšehrad. It wasn’t until 1344 when Emperor Charles IV, the future king, began the creation of a new royal court and residence in the place where we find Prague Castle that the new Royal Route was established. Charles designed his coronation route to go from the Old Royal Court towards his newly created St. Vitus Cathedral, the jewel of his empire. It was there that he would be crowned. Unfortunately, Charles died before the construction was completed and the first king to travel along the coronation route was Sigismund of Luxembourg in 1438.

Since then, 26 kings and 28 queens have taken this same route during their coronations. During the coronation, members of the clergy and royal court were in attendance and members of neighbouring countries who wanted to show their support for their allies would join the procession as well. The last coronation parade to take place along this route was in 1836.

Festivities & Customs

During the coronation parade, people who owned houses along the route would go out of their way to decorate their homes. This was meant to impress and entertain the king or queen and their courtiers. A richly decorated house or palace was a sign to the new rulers of their loyalty to the realm. It was a way to create a great first impression. People would throw flowers against the backdrop of the bells which rang out across the city. Gunfire would sound, and there was singing which filled the squares. While you might think this is all a bit antiquated, think of all the celebrations held for the Queen of England’s Jubilee. Or even the wedding of Prince Harry and Megan Markle. Even today, we can see traces of these historical celebrations in our modern society.

Rituals

Along the route, the party would stop in front of various buildings where city representatives, guild members, and clergymen would make speeches in honour of the new leader. As the King rode down the street, he was expected to toss coins to the people. The ritual was said to ensure the new king or queen would bring prosperity to their country. It was also seen as good luck to release many prisoners, of petty crimes, during the coronation. This was seen as an act of compassion by the new ruler. All these generous actions were meant to strengthen the connection between the new ruler and their people. Too often, the common folk felt so disconnected from their king, as the wealthy and the poor lived two disparate lives. But, in this one moment, they could actually see each other face to face and hopefully make a connection.

Legends of the Royal Route

Sometimes there were downright odd ways in which the people would show their loyalty to the realm. In one instance, in 1527, four men jumped into the Vlatava river during Ferdinand I‘s coronation. This was meant as an act to show devotion to the king. Unfortunately, one of the men who wasn’t a strong swimmer ended up drowning!

In another case, a herd of camels was brought along the route by their Moorish masters. This caused a massive stir as most people in Prague had never seen these animals before and thought of them as a real spectacle. Regrettably, the camels got more attention than the king (which no doubt was quite problematic after the fact). In the baroque period, during a time when high-drama was in vogue, theatrical and musical performances erupted throughout the city. It seemed like on every street corner you could catch someone putting on a real show! I can only imagine who amazingly exciting this would have been for the citizens and how much joy the coronation would have brought to the city.

Starting Point: Republic Square

Start your tour at Republic Square. This was the spot where everyone in the royal court would gather to meet the new ruler and set off along the Royal Route. Republic Square was originally where you’d find the former castle moat. The moat divided the Old and New towns and was also surrounded by the old medieval walls. In the 13th century, a grand Romanesque Church of St. Benedict was constructed. Its outer courtyard would have been where the members of the royal court would have gathered before the coronation.

Although the church has since been demolished, the area where it once stood serves as a large open square today. The square isn’t too much to write home about now, but try to imagine how it might have looked in the 13th century; a parade of royal carriages, decorated horses, courtiers dressed to the nines and the king and queen in all their finery ready to greet the awaiting crowds.

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Municipal House

The fantastical Art Nouveau masterpiece called the Municipal House is now located where the former Royal Court once stood. In 1383 Wenceslas IV had his old royal court built here. It wasn’t until the rule of king Vladislav Jagiellonský when the court finally moved to the other side of town during the construction of the new Prague Castle complex.

Fire at the Royal Court

The old Royal Court contained residences for the king and his courtiers, a grand spa and a lush royal garden. The court even had a menagerie where the king kept his prized possession, one of his white lions. Unfortunately, in 1689, a huge fire broke out across the city of Prague, and the old Royal Court caught fire. It suffered a massive amount of fire damage and was left in disrepair. It later became a military barracks in 1777 before was finally demolished in the 19th century. The property was quickly bought up and the new Municipal House was built in its place.

Despite the fact that there are no architectural remnants of the old royal court here, you can see a large plaque on the exterior of the Municipal House dedicated to its history. It reads, “Here, in the King’s court, from 1454 a representative of the Czech national idea in the religious and state sense, lived and worked…At that time, there was a busy center, where messages from foreign countries met and where conventions and state assemblies took place.”

Coronatin Day

On the day of the coronation, the festivities would begin between 6 am and 7 am. The bells of St. Vitus Cathedral would ring out, announcing the start of the procession. The king or queen would be dressed by their chief chamberlain. They wore precious coronation robes, worn only during this event.

Powder Tower

Continuing along the street, until you’ll come to a busy intersection, dominated by the magnificent gothic Powder Tower. Powder Tower was built in 1475 and is the only piece of the old medieval city walls that have been preserved. Originally there were 13 different gates that provided entry into the old city of Prague. Powder Tower is one of the only remaining entrance. There is something truly awe-inspiring as you stand here looking up at this gateway. This stone arch has stood here greeting guests, just like you and I, for over 500 years. The name of the tower comes from the 17th century. During this period the previously ornamental tower was employed as a gunpowder store.

Josef Mocker

The current appearance of the tower dates back to the late 19th century. The facade was restored by architect Josef Mocker. Mocker worked with famous Czech sculptors to create the statues which decorate the exterior. On the first level, just above the arched entrance, are the statues of King Jiří of Poděbrady and King Vladislav II. On either side of the seated kings are a series of coats of arms which represent the territories the kings ruled over. Statues of Bohemian patron saints can be found on the level above the kings, divided by a series of angels with golden wings.

On the east side of the gate is a large bust of a knight with the Latin inscription, “Behold! Prague. For the honest, I am a mother, to the deceivers I am a step-mother; let those flee away, and may those who want good come.” On the western side, there is similar encryption, which states, “Dear citizen, forbear the unworthy people living without laws from harming me, a fine receptacle.”

The Silver Line

As you pass under the Powder Tower, look down on the ground and see if you can spot one of the “silver line” inscriptions. These round tablets are embedded into the cobblestone road. This marks the pathway of the Royal Route and will help you guide your way.

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Celetná Lane

Passing under the Powder Tower, you will find yourself walking along Celetná Lane. Celetná Lane is one of the oldest streets in Prague. The word “Celetná” is the name for a particular kind of bun which was sold in a famous bakery located here. Almost everyone in the city ate bread as one of their everday staples and the eventially people began to refer to the street simply as “Celetna”.

Celetna Lane was originally a popular trading route which merchants would travel along when entering into the city. This meant that the route saw its fair share of money came through their doors. Merchant needed places to sleep and quickly hotels and inns started popping up. The street quickly becomes one of the most prestigious areas of the city.

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House symbols

Celetna Lane is home to some of Prague famous house signs. Long before the city established an organized numbering system for buildings in the city, people would find their way around town by looking out for symbols. These symbols sometimes referred to the kind of business which was practiced within. Places like the House at the Golden Horseshoe were an easy way for people to find a blacksmith. House symbols sometimes were made for the heraldry of the family who owned the property. Other times house symbols like a black sun or white peacock were more allegorical. If you’d like to learn more about these House Signs you can check out our walking tours of Old Town or Mala Strana.

House at the Golden Angel

On the corner of the Králodvorská street stands the mint green building of the house At the Golden Angel. In the center of the entryway is a large golden angel marking the spot. This building, which modernized over the years, was once a popular coaching-inn where guests to the city would stay. A popular spot to stay during a coronation as you would have front row seats to the parade. Wolfgang Mozart even stayed here when he visited Prague.

#36 Celetná Lane | Mint House

One of the most fantastical facades along Celetná Lane, found at #36, was the Mint House, used as a bank since the early middle ages. But the current facade dates back to the high baroque period when such allegorical statues, as you’ll find on the exterior, were popular. Years later, the building was converted into a courthouse. Famed author Franz Kafka worked in Prague as a lawyer, and this was where he would have come to work.

The House at the Black Madonna

On the corner of Ovocný trh and Celetna Lane, look for a golden cage on the outer edge of a building. Inside you’ll find the precious icon of the Black Madonna. This marks the House at the Black Madonna, one of the first examples of cubist architecture in Prague. The house was built in 1911. The architect was desperate to employ the use of cubism in his design, but the location of the house was a problem. Since it was located on this historical laneway, the city council wouldn’t allow him to go hog wild with an uber-modern, and seemingly abstract design. So, architect Josef Gocar employed a mixture of baroque and Cubist architecture which formed his final vision and satisfied both his creative desires and the council.

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#12 Celetna, Palace of Harasov

The Hrzan Palace of Tarasov is one of the most impressive buildings along Celetna street. Built in 1702, the building was once a Romanesque manor. Elements of the old home can still be found in the basement cellars of the palace. The current facade was designed by architect G. B. Alliprandi, who is responsible for some of Prague’s other great monuments such as; Czernin Palace, Lobkowicz Palace, the Plague Column of the Holy Trinity and Sternberg Palace. The building is famous for the richly sculpted gargoyles and busts which face out onto the street. Perhaps designed to greet the eyes of the incoming royal procession.

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Old Town Square

The royal procession would continued on, passing through the Old Town Square. The old town square was originally founded in the 12th century as the city’s primary marketplace. Traders from all over Prague and indeed, all over Europe, would travel here to trade goods. No other city in Europe boasted such a beautiful scenic town centre. The square is surrounded on all sides by fantastical pastel stucco buildings, notably taller than most historic buildings found in other European cities.

Týn Church

The most imposing building is, without a doubt, the gothic Church of Our Lady of Týn. The distinctive twin black Gothic spires loom over the Týn Courtyard. The spiked turrets are so iconic of the city and can be seen all across Prague. This 14th-century church would have been an important stop for the procession. Priests would have come here to greet the new king and bestow blessings upon him.

Astronomical Clock

Perhaps one of the most famous sights in Prague, the royal procession would, of course, pass the great Astronomical Clock. The Astronomical Clock is one of Prague’s BIGGEST attractions, or at least that’s what the hoards of people crowding around it would make you believe. The clock is housed on the southern wall of the Old Town Hall and has been there, in part, since 1410.

Legend says that if something bad were to befall the clock, Prague itself would fall. Although it is just a superstitious rumour, it’s been enough to keep the clock well protected and preserved after all these years. The king, which was the supreme ruler of Prague, would have been charged with protecting the clock from damage or destruction. Passing by this clock would have been a right of passage for any future king.

Malé Náměstí

Malé Náměstí, or the “little square,” is the younger sister to the famous Old Town Square. This intimate trapezoid plaza is almost hidden away and is one of my favourite places in Prague. Everywhere you look you are absolutely surrounded by beautiful houses. In the center of the square, in the middle of rows of cafe tables and chairs, is a gorgeous fountain. Covered in a wrought-iron cage is a golden-crowned statue of the lion of Bohemia from the 16th century.

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Rott House

One of the most famous houses on the square is the Rott’s house at No. 142. The house was originally a Romanesque construction built in the second half of the 12th century. The cellars in the basement still contain elements from this romanesque construction. The current appearance of the Rott House has a neo-renaissance facade with richly decorated allegorical images of crafts and economic activities painted on the side. Originally the house was called the House at the Three Roses. It was named for the iconic three white roses painted on the top of the facade. This house was once an old hardware store but is also home to one of Prague’s most infamous ghost stories!

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Karlova

From the little square, you turn down the narrow Karlova Lane. While this street today is undoubtedly one of the most touristy parts of the city, there is still so much history steeped behind these walls. These authentic stories predate the souvenir stalls and tacky “Czech” cafes. Most of the buildings along this narrow alley date back to the gothic and romanesque period but display “new” baroque pastel facades. While “Karlova” is the current name for this snaking street, in the 12th century, it went by the names Zlatnická, Ševcovská, and Nožířská. Each of these names referred to the kind of businesses that the area was filled with. Respectively they were goldsmith lane, shoemaker lane and knife lane.

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House At The Golden Well

As you continue weaving your way through the crowds, make your way to House At The Golden Well. You’ll notice this building immediately as it has one of the most fantastical facades on the street. The exterior is covered in gilt statues and fantastical ornamentation. Legend has it that below the house is a secret cellar. Supposedly the well in the basement hides a secret gold treasure. But anyone who has tried to find the treasure has met a grizzly end. To learn more about the ghosts and legends of the old town square, check out my spooky walking tour.

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Křižovnické Square

Coming out of Karlova street, you pop out right in front of the Charles Bridge. Křižovnické Square is one of the smaller squares in the city but no less grand, in my opinion. It faces out onto the Charles Bridge, the Klementium and the stunning Vltava river. In the center of the square is a dominating statue of King Charles IV. Charles IV himself would have passed by this very spot on his way to be crowned at St. Vitus Cathedral. King Charles IV founded one of Prague’s universities, and surrounding the statue are allegorical images of the university faculties; medicine, law and philosophy.

Old Bridge Tower Gate

Before you step onto the bridge, you must pass through the Old Bridge Tower Gate. The gate welcomes passersby into the Little Quarter. The dark brick aged over time has turned almost black. The gate was constructed in 1380. When it was built it served as a fortification against invaders although today it is merely ornamental. Its Gothic features loom down upon you as you walk underneath. Above the archway are several royal crests. Resting atop them are statues of various religious figures, each one holding a shield with a different heraldric symbol emblazoned upon it. One can only imagine how lavishly decorated this gateway would have been during the royal coronations!

Charles Bridge

The Charles Bridge is one of the most spectacular bridges found anywhere in the world. If you’re lucky enough to come here early in the morning or later in the day hopefully you will find it less than stacked with tourists. That way you can really soak in the grandeur of this incredible place. Throughout the rest of the day, the bridge is packed edge to edge with tourists. If it is, just imagine that this bustling and raucous atmosphere was similar to that of the great crowds walking with the procession of the king.

History of the Charles Bridge

The Charles Bridge is the oldest bridge in Prague. The bridge was constructed in 1357 under the watchful eye of King Charles IV. The bridge is 621 meters long and almost a whopping 10 meters wide! On either side of the bridge are two guard towers, once used for protection, now they only serve as a fascinating decoration for the tourists.

As you walk along the bridge, you come across dozens of statues and statuaries in Baroque and Gothic styles. They were all once original pieces created in the 16th and 17th centuries but now are replaced with replicas to keep better in the weather. The statues depict various saints and patrons who were of great importance during the time of its construction.

Lesser Town Gate

Steppin off of the bridge, you come to the Lesser Town Gate. The two towers greet you as you enter the “Little Quarter”. This lofty structure with a wide arched gateway is flanked on either side by two enormous towers of differing heights. The non-uniformity of these towers always bothered me (I’m someone who likes symmetry), but over time I’ve found the oddity to be quite charming. The lower tower is called Judith’s Tower. It was built in the Romanesque style in the 12th century and once connected the old bridge from Mala Strana to Old Town before the Charles Bridge was built.

In 1591 the bridge tower was renovated in the new Renaissance style and decorated with ornate gables and the trendiest art form of the time: sgraffito. Sgraffito is a form of decoration made by scratching through a surface to reveal a lower layer of a contrasting colour, typically done in plaster or stucco.

The second tower, aptly named, is the Higher Tower. It was built in the Gothic style as a pair to the Charles Bridge’s Tower of Parler, located on the other side. At the peak of the arched gateway, you’ll see various symbols of Prague. There are the emblems with the imperial eagle, the Czech lion and the symbol of Upper Lusatia; below them, are all the emblems of the Old Town and the Lesser Town.

Mostecka Lane

Mostecka Lane is one of the oldest streets in Prague, with buildings dating back to the middle ages. I absolutely love the picturesque nature of this street, with the wonderfully decorated houses along the edges leading up to the great Nicholas Church at the end of the street. Walking along, I can imagine people hanging out the windows along the street, throwing flowers at the court and the king as they passed by.

St. Nicholas Church

St. Nicholas Church, with its three masterful copper-topped roofs, stands high above Mala Strana. It is known across Europe as an absolute architectural marvel and one of the most exceptional examples of Prague Baroque design. Whereas St. Vitus is an example of the most beautiful Gothic architecture, St. Nicholas provides a glimpse into the opulence, which is true baroque.

The church of St. Nicholas was built in 1704 by the father-son duo Christoph and Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer. Saint Nicholas is known as the protector of children and the patron saint of sailors. One of Prague’s most famous nobles, Count Wenceslaus Kolowrat-Liebsteinsky, was the church’s single largest patron. Over the years, he donated over 178,5000 gold pieces to the construction of the church. Despite never having a king in the family, their influence over Bohemia’s rule was significant. It seems fitting that a symbol of their dominance and power would overshadow the court procession, and it continued on its way to the castle.

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Nerudova Street

Continue along Mostecka Lane behind the church and walk north until you reach Nerudova street. While Old Town, I think, gets more attention, it’s streets like Nerudova, which solidifies my belief that the Little Quarter is the far superior part of the city (although truthfully, I love both a lot). Nerudova gets its name from the famous Czech poet and journalist Jan Neruda. Jan Neruda lived in the area and was also very notable for writing stories about the Little Quarter and the people who lived there.

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House Symbols

On either side of the street, you can find facades bearing the house symbols. These insignias helped identify businesses and homes hundreds of years before the invention of the modern house numbering system. The first incarnation of the road was built in the 13th century.

The current layout of Nerudova, which leads to Prague Castle, was redesigned in the 17th century after the Great Fire of 1541. The fire resulted in the destruction of so many houses around Nerudova, which allowed the city to redesign the area and build newer, more elaborate homes.

Úvoz

As you continue westward, Nerudova will transform into Úvoz street. Unlike the previous street, the houses here are only on the right side of the street. On the left side of the road, the walkway opens up out across this beautiful vista. You can see the entirety of Petrin Hill and much of the cities of Prague across the river.

The street initially went by the name Strahovská Cesta, named after Strahov Monastery, located just at the top of the hill. The current name “Úvoz” in Czech means “ravine.” Many people will steer away from this street as it veers away from the tourist track and is a bit steep. But this area is one of Prague’s oldest streets and is a must-see for the royal route. I can imagine how the king would have used this part of the procession to pause and look out over the city.

Pohořelec

As you reach the end of Úvoz, you come onto Pohořelec square. This is where the procession would make a sharp turn towards Prague Castle. The name of the street, Pohořelec, means “the Scene of Fire” in Czech. A haunting name for a street but with good reason. This area of the city had burned down multiple times over the years and seemed to be damned to suffer fire after fire. Perhaps naming the street after the occurrence was a way of dispelling the curse.

Loretánská Street

Turning up Loretánská street, the procession would pass Loretto Church. The great Loreta Church is a pilgrimage site where thousands of people make their own procession every year. The church acts as the final stop during Prague’s Epiphany Procession of the Three Kings.

Most of the houses along the street date back to 1742 and onward since the fire swept through this area and destroyed all previous buildings. The only building remaining along this lane, which remembers the early days of the procession, is the Hradčany Town Hall. This building was established in 1598. Outside the town hall, several of the Little Quarter city representatives would have gathered to greet the new King of Bohemia and make speeches in his honour.

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Hradcany Square

Hradčanské náměstí or Hradcany Square is a large open space at the top of Prague’s Lesser Quarter. This part of the square was connected to Prague castle by the great Matyáš Gate. This allowed the royal court’s noble members to quickly come and go from their palaces in the square to the King’s new residence. All the buildings here are incredibly beautiful manors. These elegant houses were meant for Prague’s high society. This would perhaps have been one of the most lusciously decorated parts of town during the coronation. Dedicated courtiers would have pulled out all the stops to impress the new king and queen.

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The middle of the square is dominated by a great plague column. Plague columns were a popular piece of decorations for the courts in the 15th century. They were designed to praise the Virgin Mary for saving their people from the plague which ravaged Europe. The plague column represented the end of the disease and the resolve of the population.

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Prague Castle

Prague Castle is more like a village, rather than one singular castle. Inside these stone walls are some of Prague’s most infamous architectural masterpieces. Combined into a compound, this mini-city is now known as “Prague Castle.” Prague Castle takes up over 70,000 square metres. The various buildings inside date as far back as the 9th century. Hidden within these walls, seemingly ubiquitous townhomes, storefronts, and little passageways have been left to the passage of time, almost untouched from the modern world. This timeless atmosphere is a big draw for tourists. Each year, more than 1.8 million footsteps tread on these cobblestones.

The earliest architectural research shows that the castle was founded around 880 by Prince Bořivoj. The large, wooden walls surrounding the castle when it was first constructed were built as a defence against incoming invaders and enemies. Over the years, wooden walls were replaced with stone, and many of the original stones are still standing today. Despite these countermeasures, Prague suffered many, many wars over the years. As such, much of the castle complex has been destroyed and rebuilt over time.

St. Vitus Cathedral

Dominating the inside Prague Castle is the great St. Vitus Cathedral, looming overhead. St. Vitus is one of the best examples of high Gothic architecture in Prague and whose silhouette creates the iconic skyline when looking up at Prague Castle from down below. This would have been the finish line for the procession. This was where the new king would be crowned. He would step into the church a noble but knowing he would step out, a king.

St. Wenceslas and St. Vitus

Wenceslas I was the King of Bohemia from 921 to 935. During his reign, the people of Bohemia had not all yet converted to Christianity. The Emperor, in his efforts to convert the Slavic people to this new religion, gifted St. Wenceslas with a holy relic; the forearm of St. Vitus. St. Vitus has a Slavic name, and the Emperor thought this would help the Slavic people accept Christianity. Even today, St. Vitus’ relic is seen as one of Prague’s most precious treasures.

St. Wenceslas Chapel

The most important area of the Cathedral during the coronation is St. Wenceslas Chapel. Inside, relics of the great Saint of Prague are still housed. The lower portions of the walls here are decorated with over 1,300 semi-precious stones and paintings depicting the Passion of Jesus from 1372–1373. You can see a small door with seven locks in the corner of the room. This door leads to the ‘Crown Chamber, ‘ which contains the precious Crown Jewels used in the coronation.

During the coronation, members of the clergy and the high ranking dignitaries would enter the chamber to take out the crown and sceptre required for the coronation ceremony. The lovely chapel was where the ceremony would occur. The entire room would be decorated in red and white drapery making its already elaborate interior all the most regal. Inside the chapel, the new royal would be blessed with holy oil by the highest-ranking priest. When the ceremony was finished he would emerge from the small chapel to the cheers of the adoring public gathered in the nave of the cathedral.

The first section of the presbytery behind the altar was where the crown’s most important guests would sit during the service. From here they could watch as the new sovereign would make two oaths as the newly crowned ruler. One was to Prague’s people and the other a promise to the clergy. Music rang throughout the enormous hall, and once the ceremony was completed, a wave of joyous celebration would wash over the crowd. Trumpets and drums would play as the newly crowned monarch walked back out of the church into the courtyard where he would be greeted by all citizens of Prague.

Old Royal Palace

The party would then make their way to the final stop on tour, the Old Royal Palace. This building was first erected in the 9th century but has since been through various renovations. Although you can only view parts of the palace, the grandest part of it is Vladislav Hall. This would have been where the grand coronation feast would have been held. The vaulted, late gothic ceilings in this room are the only piece of the original building which still remains. One can imagine how during the coronoation feast the hall would have been filled with brightly coloured tables cloth, shimmering satin dresses spinning about the room. The tables would be filled to bursting with extravagant food laid out for the nobility there to eat, drink and be merry.

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During coronations, the walls were decorated in the same red and white drapery found in the chapel. No doubt, the party would have lasted long into the night, with members of the court stumbling home to their palaces in Hradcany Square as the morning sun was just breaching the horizon.

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This brings us to the end of the procession and the end of the tour. I hope you have enjoyed our own walked down memory lane in the city of Prague. We leave this tour in the center of Prague Castle and the surrounding neighbourhood of Mala Strana. This is one of the most beautiful parts of town. If you are interested in exploring it in more detail, I have some fantastic guided tours to lead the way.

Let me know in the comments what your favourite spot along the walk was or if you have any questions about the procession itself!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

References

Prague City Line | Kralovskacesta | Prague.cz

The post Easy and Free Walking Tour of Prague’s Famous Royal Route first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

The Ultimate Self Guided Tour of St. Vitus Cathedral’s Incredible Stained Glass

The Creative Adventurer — Thu, 05 Apr 2018 21:55:52 +0000

St. Vitus Cathedral is one of the most astonishing churches in Prague and even around the world. As such is filled with some of the most incredible pieces of art from across Europe. The best piece of art can be seen all over the walls. The stained glass windows of St. Vitus Cathedral are some of the most transcendent works of art, which blend religious history and powerful human emotion.

Table Of Contents

The Creation Rose Window
Chapel of St. Agnes or the Bartoň-Dobenín Chapel
The Schwarzenberg Chapel
The New Archbishop Chapel
The Chapel of St. Sigismund
The Chapel of St. Anne
The High Altar
The Old Archbishop's Chapel
The Chapel of St. John the Baptist
The Chapel of Our Lady
The Reliquary Chapel
The Chapel of St. Jan Nepomuk
The Mary Magdalene Chapel or The Wallenstein Chapel
The Chapel of St. Andrew
The Southern Window
The Thunov Chapel
Chapel of St. Ludmila

We start the tour of Stained Glass by looking back at the rose window on the north-west entrance. From here we will move clockwise throughout the church. A map of each of the piece can be found at the bottom of this post for your reference. For a full guided tour of the Cathedral click here!

The Creation Rose Window

Starting at the front of the Cathedral, take a look up at the Rose Window set into the western frontispiece. This was created by Frantisek Kysela in 1925 and took over two years to be completed. The inscriptions on the stained glass tell the story of creation as told in the Bible. The outer circle says, “in the beginning, God created the earth and the earth was empty. And deserted, darkness lay above the world, and the divine spirit floated above the world.”

The inner circle says, “initially there was a word. The creation of angels.” From right to left, clockwise, each petal of the rose represents a day of the week and the parts of the earth which were created upon those days. God sits at the top of the rose window. Looking down upon his incredible creation. The shape of the rose window resembles the shape of the earth and the blues and greens caught within the design look like an image of earth from space.

Chapel of St. Agnes or the Bartoň-Dobenín Chapel

Up until 1989, this Chapel was known as the Bartoň-Dobenín Chapel. Josef Bartoň was a nobleman, knighted by the Emperor in 1912 and whose wealthy family of textile merchants were significant donors to the construction of the Cathedral. The window in the chapel depicts the Bartoň family praying. The images represented reflect the psalm from the bible which state, “Blessed are the adversaries who suffer for righteousness; Blessed are you when they curse you, rejoice and rejoice, for the reward is abundant in the heavens.”

All the blessed and repentant figures in the scene are dressed in the most exquisite clothes, and unlike many of the other designs in the church, the clothing here seems to be the focus. Because the patrons were a part of the textile trade, this is no doubt not a coincidence. During the communist regime, the image of the donors were covered by a wallpaper as they were known opposers to the current government. When St. Agnes was sanctified in 1989 the name of the chapel was changed to St. Agnes Chapel.

The Schwarzenberg Chapel

This chapel is named after the Schwarzenbergs family, a noble family who had established themselves in Prague since 1172. Designed by Karel Svolinsky in 1929, the scene depicts two stories regarding the life of Isaac. On the right we see Hagar, the mother of Isaac when they were banished to the wilderness but rescued by God. The scene on the left illustrates God asking Abraham to sacrifice his son, Isaac, but seeing a ram, Abraham sacrifices it instead. Both of these stories are about sacrifice for your children. At the bottom of the glass window are the Schwarzenberg wives who kneel, thanking god for their children. In the lower part of window, in the centre, you can make out the Schwarzenberg family crest.

The New Archbishop Chapel

The most distinguished of all the stained glass windows in the Cathedral is this piece designed by Alphonse Mucha in 1930. This can be found in the New Archbishop Chapel. It is an allegory of Christ blessing the Slavic Nations. Mucha was born in Ivančice, Moravia (now the Czech Republic) and dedicated his life and art to preserving and teaching people about Slavic history. The piece features the preachers St. Cyril and St. Method. St. Cyril and St. Method were two Byzantine Christian brothers who came to the Slav nation and devised the Glagolitic alphabet, the first alphabet used to transcribe the Bible so the people of Bohemia could read it. Even after their deaths, their pupils continued their missionary and were seminal in creating the Christian world in the Czech Republic.

St Cyril can be seen in the centre panel on the left holding a large bound bible. On the right St. Method is seen baptising the heathens with holy water. Below them is an old grandmother, this is St. Ludmila with her grandson, St. Wenceslas. On the left and right panels, we can see the story of Christianity being brought to the Slavic people. On the left, scribes work tirelessly to transcribe the bible. Mucha’s influential work of art, The Slav Epic tells this story in even more details and is well worth checking out if you’re in Prague and interested in the history of Bohemia.

The Chapel of St. Sigismund

This piece of stained glass looks like it belongs on an Alexander McQueen dress. The patterns both on the figures and behind them are stunning in their colours and appearance. We see St. Wenceslas, Wolfgang and Johanna.

The Chapel of St. Anne

This chapel is named after St. Anne, the grandmother of Jesus. Anne was married to Joachim of Nazareth, a descendant of David. The couple was childless as they gave all their time and money to the poor. When they arrived in Jerusalem, they were rejected by the church because their childlessness was interpreted as a sign of divine displeasure. Joachim fled to do his did penance in the desert, and there he fasted. After 40 days, an angel appeared to him and promised him a child. Despite her old age, Anne gave birth to Mary, the soon to be Mother of Jesus. The children of older women, who were thought to be barren, are thought to be destined for greatest, perhaps because of this adage.

In the stained glass window, we see a charming rendering of the royal family tree of David. Jesse of Bethlehem, the father of King David, is seen at the bottom. From his heart grows a tree whose branches hold his forefathers. At the top is a giant blooming flower from which the Virgin Mary sprouts up from. Above her, are is four petals surrounding a cross. Inside the flower petals are a Winged Man, a Lion, an Ox and an Eagle. These are the symbols for the evangelists of Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John. This stunning work of art was created by Jan Swerts in 1877 and is my favourite piece in the entire cathedral.

The High Altar

Moving down to the Southern transept, we see the enormous stained glass dramatic scene of the Last Judgement. This was designed by famous Prague artist Max Švabinský.

In the central part of the window, we see the regal figures of Christ, the Virgin Mary, St. Adalbert, St. John the Baptist and St. Jacob. The colours in this window are stunning. The emerald greens look like rich grassy fields, shining in the sunlight. In the lower left, you can see the figures of Czech kings who were buried in the royal tomb inside the St. Vitus Cathedral. On the left, we have Ferdinand I and Rolph II. In the centre Ladislav Posthumous and George of Podebrady. And on the right the illustrious St. Wenceslas IV and Charles IV. They are dressed in handsome finery and praying at the feet of Jesus. Below them are the figures of Archbishop Jan Očko of Vlašim and the four wives of Charles IV.

Above is the figure of Christ. A choir of angels holding horns announce the arrival of the Last Judgment. At the very top in the centre, you can see the gleaming St. Wenceslas crown incorporated into the tracery. Below the crown, there is a bright golden bell, representing the giant carillon in the tower. In contrast to the King and Queens on the left, the lower right side of the piece depicts the horrors of the Last Judgement. The Archangel Gabriel stand there selecting who are the sinners and who are the saved. In his hand, he holds a mighty, glimmering sword. The rebrobates are sent to hell and are seen falling to their damnation in the fires of purgatory.

The Old Archbishop’s Chapel

The design of this stained glass was created by Josef Mocker and František Sequens. Mocker worked on the ornamentation and patterning, and Sequens focused on the figures. Two people were needed for this majestic piece of artwork. You could stare at it for hours and constantly be discovering a new hidden scene or favourite embellishment.

The window focuses on Saint John of Nepomuk. Saint John of Nepomuk is one of the most popular saints in Bohemia. He was drowned in the Vltava River because he would not break the seal of the confessional and divulge to him his wife’s confession. Because he was drowned, he is considered a protector from floods and drowning. On either side of him are two angels in robes with mirroring green and red drapery. In the left window, we have the Apostle Thomas and on the right the Apostle St. Jan. All three of the top figures are set against a Gothic architectural backdrop.

The Chapel of St. John the Baptist

The Chapel of St. John the Baptist is a study in architectural drawings and ornamental patterns and less of a focus on figures. In the middle was have the image of the Virgin Mary flanked by St. Antonín Poustevník and St. John the Baptist. The rest of the glass is decorated with delightful geometric flowers and even the image of exquisitely ornamented windows in windows.

The Chapel of Our Lady

This Chapel is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The decoration throughout is fantastical. Flowers, leaves, quatrefoils shapes and highly embellished tracery gives the window outstanding presence even in such a wondrous Cathedral. The Holy Trinity is represented in the center window. God holds his hands open and a white dove flies above. In front is Jesus on the cross, bright white rays of sunlight burst from behind the trio. On the left dressed in azure robes is the Virgin Mary, her gaze looking down in sadness at Jesus on the cross. On the left window, we see St. John the Baptist holding a cross with a scroll which reads, “Repent-you, neared for the Kingdom of the Heavens“.

The Reliquary Chapel

Charles IV considered this chapel to be the most precious. In the central window, we see the Virgin Mary with baby Jesus in her arms. On either side of her are kneeling angels, their wings coloured in all different hues, making them look more like birds than angels. Below the holy family, we can see a choir of Bohemian Saints Vojtech, Dorothy and Beno. On the left window we have Andrew the Apostle, Agnes of Bohemia, Saint Vitus and Jan Sarkander and on the right St. Apostle James the Elder, Saints Alois, St. Alphonsus, and Frantisek of Paula. This is another piece designed by Josef Mocker and František Sequens from 1877.

The Chapel of St. Jan Nepomuk

This window was designed by Josef Kranner, Rudolf Müller and Petr Maixner in 1870. The window is set in front of the precious relic of Saint Adalbert of Prague housed in the alluring gold and silver gilded reliquary. With such an impressive treasure in front, the stained glass windows behind are more restrained. The three windows tell the story of the life of St. John of Nepomuk. In the center we see St. John with Wenceslaus the 4th as a boy. A stirring image since the two were once so close but in the end, it was Wenceslaus the 4th who would put St. John to death. On the right we see St. John giving alms to the poor and on the left, he is seen blessing the Queen Sophia of Bavaria, the spouse of Wenceslaus.

The Mary Magdalene Chapel or The Wallenstein Chapel

The Wallenstein Chapel features a single central pane by Josef Mocker and František Sequens. It centres around the image of Saint Mary Magdalene washing the feet of Christ. Beneath them are the apostles Bartholomew and Matthew. While a smaller window, take a moment to study the geometric ornaments at the bottom of the window. Although completed in 1877, they have a very art-deco feel about them that significantly pre-dates that period of art history. Perhaps an early influence to what art-deco would become.

The Chapel of St. Andrew

Although Rose Windows only usually appear along the nave, here we see a smaller, yet no less lovely, version. In the center of the curved rosette, we see the figure of Christ, his left hand out in a blessing pose and an open book in the right. Standing amongst a group of columns below are Saints Matthew, Barnabas, Stephen, Lawrence, Luke and Mark.

The Southern Window

The Southern Window, adjacent to the famed St. Wenceslas Chapel, is an incredible tryptic. The colours in this piece seem otherworldly. They are so powerful and intense. A triad of rainbows. In the centre, we see the figure of Jesus, falling into the arms of his maker. This is the depiction of the Holy Trinity: the father, the son and holy spirit, symbolized here in the form of a dove. The dove is surrounded by a glorious ray of light which draws your eye in and doesn’t let it go. Jesus’ face is surprisingly emotive considering it is made of glass, without the intricacies of paint. Surrounding the figure of Jesus, if you look closely into the traceries, are the tools which were used when he was martyrized.

To the left, we have the northern window. Here, the Virgin Mary is dressed in Royal purple and honoured with the crown of St. Wenceslas. On either side of her are the kneeling figures of blessed St. Mlada and St. Ludmila. Below Mary is Spytihněv I, the first historically documented Bohemian ruler and husband of St. Ludmila. In his hands, he holds a model of a Roman Basilica, which he built in her honour. On the right, we see St. Wenceslas and St. Vitus on their knees. In the centre is Charles IV who is also holding a model of a Gothic Cathedral.

The Thunov Chapel

The Thunov Chapel features a sparkling blue window with a modern design despite being created in 1929. It represents the Psalm 126-5 which declares, “Who sows in tears, will harvest in joy.” Inside the window frame are different risks which provoke sorrow; floods, hail storms, fire, death and natural disasters. The concept here is to teach the public that tragedy may befall us, but only through sadness can we genuinely appreciate happiness and joy.

At the top of the window, is a clear image of an enormous eye overlooking those below. This is representative of the Lord’s eye looking out over the Justified. Below the eyes are three quatrefoils with different saints inside. On the left is St. Florian, fighting fires with his staff. In the centre, we have St. Krystof, with his cane, breaking the waves of the ocean. On the right, we see St. Barbara proving her valour with a victory against the earth. These saints are seen to be there to help protect the justified against the ills that might befall them.

Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre

Another of Karel Svolinsky’s incredible contemporary pieces is this window design featuring purple, red and pink glass presenting the ‘Works of Mercy‘. There are two main categories of Mercy; corporal and spiritual. The Corporal works of mercy are; To feed the hungry, To give water to the thirsty, To clothe the naked, To shelter the homeless, To visit the sick, To visit the imprisoned, or ransom the captive and to bury the dead.

Spiritual Works of Mercy is to instruct the ignorant, to counsel the doubtful, to admonish the sinners, to bear patiently those who wrong us, to forgive offences, to comfort the afflicted and to pray for the living and the dead. Each of these acts of mercy is thoughtfully represented in each frame of the window. The flowing natures of glass design adds a sense of movement to the entire piece which gives it that sense of modernity despite being over a hundred years old.

Chapel of St. Ludmila

In the Chapel of St. Ludmila we can see the impressive images of the St. Ludmila, the Holy Spirit and the twelve apostles. The holy spirit is seen as a white dove in the centre, flying up towards the Jesus, dressed in a red habit. The dove is illuminated with yellow, white and red light which reflects off the figures below. The twelve apostles kneel below,. their hands folded in prayer. Their bright flowing robes rippling against the power of the spirit taking off above.

St. Ludmila or Ludmila of Bohemia is frequently seen throughout the Cathedral. Saint Ludmila married the first Duke of Bohemia, and they had a son, Vratislav. She and her husband were one of the first couples who converted to Christianity when it was brought to Bohemia. Vratislav married young and had another son, Saint Wenceslas. Vratislav died soon after his son was born, so Ludmila acted as the regent for Wenceslas until he came of age. Despite being his grandmother, she acted more like a mother to him and brought him up to be a good Christian.

But good deeds did not go unpunished, and when Wenceslas’ mother Drahomíra became jealous of Ludmila’s influence over her son, she has Ludmila murdered by two noblemen. Saint Ludmila was canonized shortly after her death. Wenceslas never forgot his dear grandmother, and as such, she is a very big part of Czech Christian history.

The post The Ultimate Self Guided Tour of St. Vitus Cathedral’s Incredible Stained Glass first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

The Ultimate Guide to St. Vitus Cathedral, the Shining Gem of Prague

The Creative Adventurer — Thu, 07 Sep 2017 13:20:01 +0000

The crowning jewel of Prague Castle is without a doubt, St. Vitus Cathedral. You might expect the royal residences would be the most distinguished buildings in the compound, but here, the church reigns supreme. Upon entering Prague Castle, you can see the awe-inspiring Gothic towers of St. Vitus poking their heads out. Above all the other red roof buildings surrounding it. St. Vitus is one of the best examples of Gothic architecture in Prague. Or anywhere in the world for that matter and should be a must-see sight for anyone visiting Prague for the first time.

Tips on Exploring the Cathedral

St. Vitus Cathedral is enormous. Exploring it in its entirety might seem daunting to first-time visitors. Spend time studying the details, don’t try to take it all in at once. Take a seat inside when you first walk in, allow yourself to take in the design, the layout, the colours, the sounds and even the small. Follow along with this little-guided tour to find out more of the secrets inside these walls. The tour takes you around the exterior and then inside. The tour takes starts at the base of the north tower. Following along the north aisles and then around the High Altar and Gothic Chapels. Then finishing off walking back down the south side aisles towards the south tower.

Tickets

Upon arriving at the Prague Caste gates, you can stop at the ticket booth and buy your ticket. But before you do, know that you DO NOT need to buy a ticket simply to walk around Prague Castle. While you don’t need a ticket to explore the exterior of the complex to go inside the Cathedral, Royal Residence and exhibitions you do need to pay.

There are all sorts of different “circuit” tickets available, all of which offer access to various parts of the castle. This can seem daunting and confusing at first, and I think a lot of tourists go for the most expensive one thinking that’s the easiest way to see it all. Circuit A will cost you CZK 350 ($15 USD), and Circuit B will cost you CZK 250 ($10 USD). For most visitors, the ‘Circuit B’ ticket is actually your best choice. It gives you access to St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica, and Golden Lane with the Daliborka Tower. It won’t give you access to ‘the Story of Prague Castle,’ or the Powder Tower and Rosenberg Palace. But I don’t think these are worth your time for a first-time visitor.

Guide to St. Vitus Cathedral

Tickets
St. Vitus in Prague
Exterior
History
Nave
North Side Aisle
The Transept
The Chancel
Gothic Chapels
Tomb of St. Vitus
St. Wenceslas Chapel
High Tower
South Side Aisle

St. Vitus in Prague

“St. Vitus” was named by Prague’s patron Saint, St. Wenceslas, Duke of Bohemia. Saint Wenceslas had acquired a holy relic, the arm of St. Vitus, from Emperor Henry I. Since Saint Vitus had a Slavic sounding name. And the Emperor thought this was the perfect relic to convert the Slavic people to Christianity. Saint Vitus is the patron saint of actors, entertainers and dancers. He is also said to help protect against lightning, dog bites and, if you can believe it, over sleeping.

Standing in the third courtyard of Prague Castle, looking up at the looming gothic towers, you must remember you are in the same spot where a romanesque pagan temple stood as early as 924. The temple was dedicated to the god of fertility. And many women made the pilgrimage here to pray for a healthy baby. Eventually, the pagan temple was demolished as Christians came to build their Cathedral to their new God.

Exterior

Take some time to examine the church’s exterior. Spot all the different creatures which hang over the roof. You’ll see dragons, scorpions, musicians and more. At night these sculptures are all lit up from below Creating a haunting spectacle as their faces seem to move in the light.

Although the southern entrance to the Cathedral is no longer in use, walk around the building and look up at what might be the most astonishing part of the exterior – the Golden Gate. This entrance is decorated with colourful and gilded mosaics which combine to produce a stunning scene of the Last Judgement. Unlike the modern western doors, these doors date back from 1370. Since they are so old and delicate, they’re no longer in use to protect them from too much wear and tear.

Western Door Entrance

To enter the church, go back around to the cathedral’s western doors. As you walk through, take a moment to look at the large, bronze reliefs. Each one is adorned with scenes from the history of the Cathedral’s constructions and legends about St. Wenceslas and St. Adalbert. Adalbert of Prague was a missionary who brought the Christian religion, along with St. Wenceslas, to the people of Bohemia. Although the doorways might look old, these designs only date back to 1953.

History

Like many of the world’s great churches, construction took ages. It began in 1344 but was not completed until 1929. Even today, the Cathedral is steadily being restored to ensure all the work that went into building such a gem isn’t lost to time and the pollution of the faithful.

The architect of St. Vitus Cathedral was Frenchman Matthias of Arras who had previously designed the famed Papal Palace in Avignon. Matthias of Arras was a schooled geometer and mathematician, who loved rigid proportions. Matthias is responsible for the heady French Gothic architectural style found so prominently throughout the Cathedral. French Gothic architecture was compact. The transept is short with small chapels. The west front is gracious, with three portals topped with a classical rose window and two large towers. The east end is polygonal with radiating chapels. But the most impactful piece of French Gothic design is their use of height to create an impactful vertical perspective.

Peter Parler

But Matthias didn’t live to see the Cathedral finished. After his death, 23-year-old Peter Parler, son of the architect Heinrich Parler, took over construction. Despite his youth, Parler had real-world experience working with his father on the Holy Cross Minster and the Nuremberg Frauenkirche in Nuremberg, Germany.

Parler was an innovator and brought his own unique ideas to the Cathedral. He synthesised traditional gothic elements and his more modern ideas, exemplified in the vaults he designed for the choir. These, now named “Parler” vaults, have diagonal ribs that span the width of the choir-bay providing additional strength and also producing a dynamic pattern effect along the ceiling.

Parler was a sculptor and woodcarver as well as an architect. When he took over the project, he moved away from the mathematical, structured designs of Matthias and added more naturalistic ornaments. Study the tracery panels, the organic buttresses, window ornaments, the bell-shaped columns, passageway lintels and the busts in the triforium – each one given an artistic flourish that only a sculptor could have conceived.

Nave

As you walk along the nave, you are immediately struck with a wave of colour and light we well as powerful vertical lines. Above the main entrance is the classical rose window, installed in 1927, which depicts various famous scenes from the bible.

North Side Aisle

On either side of the nave are narrow side aisles lined with small yet elaborately decorated chapels. Many of the chapels are adorned with a large stain glass window. They are dedicated to a particular saint and will often contain a relic or gilded altar portraying scenes of the life of the saint.

Archbishop’s Chapel

The Archbishop’s Chapel, one of the first on the north side aisle, contains the most majestic stained glass windows. This piece was produced by Czech, Art Nouveau master painter, Alfons Mucha. Created in the early 1930s, the piece was commissioned for the Millennium Jubilee of St. Wenceslas’ death. The window portrays the young St. Wenceslas with his grandmother St. Ludmila. Surrounding the centre panel are small vignettes of the lives of Saints Cyril and Methodius who spread Christianity among the Slavs.

The first thing you’ll notice upon looking at this piece is the saturation of the colours and sharp lines around the figures. Because this pane of glass was painted – not stained – Mucha was able to produce a more impactful artwork filled with powerful organic forms blossoming onto the panels.

The Transept

As you continue walking down the nave, you’ll come upon the “crossing”. This where the north and south transepts intersect with the nave, creating the “cross” design which is so important to Cathedrals.

The south transept contains the glittering stained glass window designed by Max Švabinský. This was installed in 1938 and depicts scenes from the Last Judgement, with the fires of hell burning brightly in the lower right panel. The vivid colour in the contemporary stained glass is breathtaking.

Baroque Pipe Organ

In the north transept, you’ll find the baroque pipe organ. The current organ has over 4400 pipes and was built by Josef Molzer in 1932. The 16th-century Renaissance organ loft houses this musical instrument in what is now one of the oldest parts of the church. Despite all those pipes, the organ is simply not loud enough to fill the whole 125-meter long church. In 2017, bids to build the new organ were being reviewed. They want to build a new loft to house a modern pipe organ with over 8000 pipes – set to be the largest organ in Europe. The estimated cost of this would be anywhere from 80 to 100 million crowns ($3.5 million USD).

Below the organ are three carved wooden doors with reliefs of the martyrdom and lives of various Bohemian saints.

Standing at the crossing, study the ornamental golden pulpit. Many people have remarked that it is one of the most impressive pulpits seen anywhere in Europe. The entirety of the pulpit is covered in gold leaf and Renaissance portraits of famous Bohemian saints and royalty.

The arcade along the aisles contains painted crests of all the Bohemian families who have served the realm over the years since the Cathedral’s construction.

The Chancel

Behind the crossing and in front of the high altar, is the chancel which contains the Royal Mausoleum. The tombs behind the intricate wrought iron gates are that of Ferdinand I and his wife. Each one of their tombs is topped with a hauntingly realistic marble effigy.

A set of stairs behind the gates leads down to the royal crypt where dozens of Bohemian royals are interred.

Choir and High Altar

Behind the Royal Mausoleum is the Choir and high altar. The high altar follows the strict neo-gothic philosophy; tall proportions and fine details. The entire altar resembles the shape of a cathedral itself. The altar of St. Vitus was the crowning place of all the Kings and Queens of Bohemia, and one can only imagine how beautiful the Royals would have looked in their finery, made only finer by the sparkling interior of the Cathedral.

Gothic Chapels

Surrounding the chancel is a ring of Gothic Chapels. Starting on the left (the north end), make your way around, finishing off at the famous, St. Wenceslas Chapel.

St Sigismund

The first chapel you’ll visit is of St Sigismund, one of the patron saints of the city of Prague. Designed by František Kanka in 1720, it contains a remarkable red marble altar with stone carved into depictions of the saint. St Sigismund was once King of the Burgundians before he was captured by the King of Orléans and executed. In 1366, Charles IV, Holy Roman Emperor, moved Sigismund’s relics to Prague and he has since become one of the many patron saints of the Kingdom of Bohemia.

St. Anne’s Chapel

St. Anne’s Chapel is next. Standing in the centre is a sumptuous gothic altar. Inside are three white marble saints, the central figure being St. Anne herself. St Anne was the mother of Mary and grandmother of Jesus according to apocryphal Christian and Islamic tradition. Behind the altar is an elaborately designed stained glass window portraying a multitude of saints. On either side of the chapel are two large, painted frescos depicting scenes from the saint’s life.

The Chapel of St. John the Baptist

The Chapel of St. John the Baptist contains the gothic tombs of Břetislav II, Bořivoj II and the magnificent tomb of Vratislav of Pernstein, Supreme Chancellor of Rudolf II, designed by the Dutch architect Vredeman de Vries. Inside the chapel, there is also a precious historical piece of medieval craftsmanship – a part of a 12th-century Candelabra from Jerusalem.

Lady Chapel

Next is the Lady Chapel or the “Trinity Chapel”. Inside the Lady Chapel is a magnificent altarpiece depicting “The Visitation”. In Christianity, the Visitation was the meeting of Mary with Elizabeth. Prague was one of the first places in the world to celebrate the feast of the Visitation, at the behest of Archbishop Jan Jenstein in the 1390s.

Alongside the altar lies the tombs of Břetislav I, his wife Jitka and Spytihněv II. Many of these beautifully carved graves are the works of the Peter Parler workshop. This meant that even the tombs fit in perfectly with the design of the rest of the Cathedral.

Tomb of St. Vitus

On the other side of the Lady Chapel is the great tomb of St. Vitus himself. A sculpture of the saint is carved atop the tomb, set against a background of golden lattice work. The tomb itself is rather subdued and simple.

But the most impressive tombs is the baroque, silver encased resting place of St. John of Nepomuk which stands across from the Gothic Chapels. The tomb is draped in a deep red canopy held up by a squadron of divine angels. Two tonnes of silver was used to create this work of art.

Saint John of Nepomuk made a martyr by being drowned in the Vltava river when he refused to divulge the secrets of the Queen’s confessional. He is now the patron against calumnies a protector from floods and drowning.

Chapel of St. John of Nepomuk

The Chapel of St. John of Nepomuk across from him tomb contains a cherished relic. Years after St. John of Nepomuk was drowned, his body was pulled from the river and a part of his body, saved in this reliquary.

The Waldstein Chapel

Beside the chapel of Nepomuk is The Waldstein Chapel which contains two beautiful fresco on either wall and a small altarpiece in the centre, behind a wonderfully geometric stained glass window.

Royal Oratory

The Royal Oratory is set along the row of Chapels. It contains one of the most elaborate designs of the Cathedral with ribbed vaulting carved into the balcony to make it look like tree branches, growing from the stone. This is Parler’s work and is almost an early influence to Gaudi’s ‘Sagrada Familia’.

St. Wenceslas Chapel

But the most important Chapel of them all is St. Wenceslas Chapel. St. Wenceslas was the Duke of Bohemia from 921 until his assassination in 935. His younger, power hungry, brother was found guilty of his murder. Although he was never an actual King, many people know his from the Christmas carol “Good King Wenceslas”. The heroic goodness of the duke was well known throughout Bohemia, and years after his death people continued to spread stories of his kindness. He was eventually posthumously declared a King and given a sainthood.

From floor to ceiling, this chapel is embellished with the most exquisite paintings, gilding and ornaments. The lower portions of the walls in here are decorated with over 1300 semi-precious stones and paintings depicting the Passion of Jesus from 1372–1373. In the centre of the room hangs a golden chandelier which resembles a grand crown, for the King of Kindness.

Inside the Chapel, relics of the Saint are still housed inside his tomb, seen below covered in a red and gold embroidered drape. In the corner of the room, there is a small door with seven locks. This door leads to the Crown Chamber which contains the city’s Crown Jewels. These treasures are off limits to the public, except for one day, every eight years, when the seven locks are opened, and these incredible riches can be looked upon by the people of the city.

High Tower

For those of you who have the courage and energy, be sure to climb the High Tower to get some of the most impressive views of the city and courtyards below. The bell atop the tower is named “Sigismund Bell” and was forged in 1549. It is Bohemia’s largest bell and to hear it ring out is a great thing to hear.

South Side Aisle

The Thun Chapel was themed after the Psalm “Those who Sow in Tears Shall Reap in Joy” by František Kysela. It says:

Those who sow with tears
will reap with songs of joy.
Those who go out weeping,
carrying seed to sow,
will return with songs of joy,
carrying sheaves with them.

The stained glass window the back of the chapel depicts various parts of the Psalm in sparkling, vivid colours and with the characters moving throughout in ways not traditionally seen in static stained glass.

Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre

In the Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre, the large, pink and purple stained glass window draws out all the different ‘Acts of Mercy’. There is also an early Baroque altar from 1674 and a picture of St. Mary Magdalene from 1600.

St Ludmila Chapel

The St Ludmila Chapel is located along the southern aisle and is a significant place for Czech Christians. St Ludmila was the grandmother of St. Wenceslas and taught him Christian kindness. She married Borivoj, the first Czech prince to adopt Christianity. Ludmila raised St. Wenceslas as her son after the death of his father. The anti-Christians who ran the country after the death of Wenceslas’ father, opposed Ludmila and resented her influence over Wenceslas. Before Wenceslas could ascend the throne, they strangled Ludmila, hoping to end Wenceslas’ pursuits of Christianity.
Unfortunately, it had the opposite effect, and after her death, Wenceslas was even more passionate about securing his grandmother’s legacy.

Even if you’re not religious, St. Vitus Cathedral is a monumental work of art and must be visited, especially if it’s your first time in Prague. The entry is always free so if you feel like you want to visit on more than one occasion to study it up, you can come and go as you please.

Step back in time. Take a step into history. And step into St. Vitus Cathedral.

The post The Ultimate Guide to St. Vitus Cathedral, the Shining Gem of Prague first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.