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History

Archeological digs in the area have uncovered ancient shell middens in the area around Bellerive. A shell midden refers to an underground mound composed of shells or molluscs. These are indications that the indigenous people of Tasmania, the Mouheneener tribes, once used this area as their hunting grounds. Bellerive was first settled in 1820 and was named Kangaroo Point. Most likely due to the overwhelming amount of kangaroos once living here before the urban landscape drove them out. As the settlement built up and the kangaroos dispersed, it was renamed ‘Bellerive’ in 1830. The name “Bellerive” means “beautiful river banks” as the area is indeed surrounded by incredible waterways, immensely influential in the development of the city.

Access

To get to Bellerive, you can take the Tasman Bridge across the river. As you drive over the bridge you get a gorgeous view all across Hobart. There is a public parking lot marked on the map where you can leave the car. It is also from this spot that we start our self-guided tour. If you don’t have a car, Uber services Bellerive. You can easily use that service to get over to this suburb and back to the mainland.

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Map of Walking Tour of Bellerive Tasmania

The Clarence Foreshore Trail

One of the reasons that this tiny settlement flourished so quickly was because it was the meeting point of various large roads from the farming districts to the mouth of the river. From the river, goods would be boarded onto ships or ferries and sent all over Tasmania. One of my favourite views in Bellerive is standing here at the edge of the peninsula. From here you can look out over the city of Hobart and the towering view of Kunanyi/Mount Wellington. You’ll notice a narrow paved pathway on the edge of the parking lots; this is the Clarence Foreshore Trail. The trail follows the shores of the Derwent River and is a popular spot for local out for some exercise or to walk their dogs.

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The Villa

Across from the parking lot is an old yellow-painted brick house with red trimmings. The place named the ‘Villa‘ was built in 1858. It was made for Richard Morgan Junior, who opened the first lodging houses in the area in 1867. The Bellerive Hotel was one of the community’s finest establishments until 1939 when a huge bushfire destroyed it. Today the building has been repaired and used as an office complex although much of the original architecture has been reconstructed.

#2 Victoria Esplanade

The walking trail allows riverside views of the area as you walk parallel to Victoria Esplanade. Just rounding the bend, you’ll see the red brick exterior of No. 2 Victoria Esplanade, also called ‘The Moorings.‘ This house was built in 1904 for the prosperous accountant Owen Tinning. Many of the vast manor houses along Victoria Esplanade feature fantastic examples of Federation architecture. I adore Federation architecture as it is uniquely Australian. The style was adapted from British influences of the Queen Anne style, Edwardian style and the Arts and Crafts trend.

Federation Architecture

The Federations style is marked by prominent verandah designs. This addition was unique to Australia as the British climate would never lend itself to such ornamental use of the outdoors. These verandahs feel like the heart of the home and are richly decorated. Australian flora and fauna are usually taken into consideration and carefully woven into the decorations of the house. The brickwork on these types of homes is typically deep red or dark brown. Another unique feature of these homes are the circular windows, also called bullseye windows, that you can see at #2. The house also contains the Federations Queen Anne style roof that features terracotta tiles with decorative gables and even a little turret.

#9 Victoria

At No. 9 Victoria Esplanade, we find the fantastical architecture marvel called the ‘Fairview.’ This gorgeous home was the residence of Robert O’May. Robert O’May was the Bellerive ferry master. He was born right here in Bellerive in 1872. The O’May family was responsible for the ferry service from Hobart to Belleview. Before the Tasman Bridge was built, this service was the only way residents could cross over to Hobart and back. The ferry master made a name for himself and became one of the wealthiest men in the area.

The beautiful house features incredible wrought iron lace designs on the verandah. You’ll notice that the iron fencing features birds woven into the arrangements if you look closely. This use of the iron lace wrought iron is another element of Federations architecture. During the 19th century, Australia had a surplus of wrought iron. They loved using it to embellish the exterior of their homes with ornamental designs. As exemplified here, these designs often included Australian birds, flowers, coats of arms, rising suns and even animals like the kangaroo!

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Kangaroo Bluff Battery Historic Site

At the end of Victoria Esplanade, we reach the Kangaroo Bluff Fort Historic Site. The Kangaroo Bluff Fort Historic Site was built around 1884. Just like the Hobart Battery, these towers were constructed as a means of defence and observation. The new settlement was greatly afraid of incoming threats from the water and they went about building these Batteries. Thankfully, none of them were ever used but they remain wonderful historic examples of these types of defences.

Today you can walk up the hill where you’ll still find all the original defensive cannons. These were installed to protect the colony and manned by the guards. Walking around the old stone structure, you can see some of the old underground storage rooms. In there the soldiers would have stored equipment and ammunition. These rooms are marked with red-painted wooden doors and shutters embedded into the hillside.

Bluff House

Towards the north end of the park is the Bluff House, built in 1885. This late Victorian home was made by Robert Hutchinson. Hutchinson was an English architect who moved to Australia. There was a great need for these trained artists and technicians. Hutchinson started his life in Australia in Melbourne but eventually made his way to Tasmania, and moved to Bellerive. He was famous in the area for his residences and lighthouses designs along the coast. Many of these structures are still under the National Trust and can be sen today. The old Bluff house has since been renovated into an airbnb. This means you can stay inside a piece of history if you wish to spend a night in Bellerive!

The Old School and Residence

Along Victoria Esplanade, head up King Street and make a short detour to see the Old School and Residence. The school was one of Bellerive’s first, built in old gothic style with heavy stonework. The most impressive feature is the 24-panel window which is located at either end of the schoolroom. It was once used as a hostel, but today is a private business. To get a good look you’ll just have to peek over the fence but it’s amazing to see despite all the changing residents how much of the original building remains.

Bellerive Beach

Continuing along the Clarence Trail, we walk along the water’s edge until we reach Bellerive Beach. Bellerive Beach is one of the most scenic beaches I’ve ever visited. The bright blue waters of the River Derwent juxtaposed against the stunning view of Kunanyi / Mount Wellington in the background is truly spectacular. The water is generally pretty calm here so it’s great for swimming. The beach is also protected from the southern ocean swells by the South Arm Peninsula and Bruny Island. The beach is flanked by a stretch of blue gum trees filled with a variety of seabirds. Unlike many overpopulated beaches in Sydney or Melbourne, which have had much of their natural resources removed to make room for the tourists, this beach still looks like a slice of Australia as it would have been before it was colonized by the British.

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Bellerive Beach Park & Blundstone Arena

Opposite the beach is a large green park, aptly named Bellerive Beach Park. Towering over the trees behind the garden is the modern Blundstone Arena. Today the Blundstone Arena is where you’ll find Tasmania’s premier cricket and Australian Rules football is played. But the history of games being played in this area dates back to 1884. Back then, the patch of green land here was still used to play cricket. Cricket was a popular pastime brought to Australia from Britain. It quickly became one of the most popular sports in Tasmania. In 1913, the land used for the games was even declared city council property. They transformed it, levelled the ground and fenced off the surroundings but it was still a simple patch of grass. In the 70s, construction of the arena began and it is now one of the biggest draws to Bellerive.

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Queen Street

Walk back towards our starting point, via old Queen Street. Queen Street was initially called Bidassoa Street but was renamed in 1897 to commemorate Queen Vicotria’s jubilee. Queen Street is a straight shot from the old ferry port down to the beach. For over a hundred years, this street was used by day-trippers. These day-trippers would arrive from either Hobart or elsewhere in Tasmania to enjoy the beauty of this remote beach town. Today, this street is one of the loveliest to wander down. You can study some of the incredible historical Australian architecture as you go. #34 Queen Street is a gorgeous two-storey brick building featuring elements of Federation Arts and Crafts design style.

One of the most popular facets of Federation Arts and Crafts style is highlighting the structure of the building. This means underscroing elements like the beans, posts and rafts. Rather than painting them the same colour as the rest of the house, these elements (like the window frames and dormers) were painted red. This adds a spectacular ornamental quality to the home. But the geometric stained glass on the second storey is what really makes the building so beautiful to me.

St Mark’s Chapel of Ease

At the corner of Scott Street and Queen street, we find a tiny old stone St Marks Church or St Mark’s Chapel of Ease. The church was built in 1852 out of local sandstone. It is one of those rustic churches that feels so in line with the simplicity of early Tasmanian design. The church was made by convict architect James Blackburn. Despite his convict beginnings, Blackburn is considered one of the greatest engineers of his period in Australia.

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One of the most unique parts of the old church grounds are the old tombstones that still remain on site. These are the remains of the pioneers of Bellerive, some dating back to 1840. Although there were once 121 people buried here, only a few of the headstones still remain.

The church is not in use as a religious site today but serves as the meeting place of the Bellerive scout troop. The scout troop was responsible for the church’s restoration in the 1970s. It seemed only fitting that for their efforts they would be rewarded with a permanent location for the troupe.

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29 Queen St.

Across the street from the church is an old single-storey house. The house is made of rough stone blocks and therefore has a very rugged appearance. The house was built in 1860 for Dr. Desailly. In later years it was used as the primary residence for the priests attending St. Mark’s chapel. Although its relatively simple appearance makes it feel not as imposing, it was considered a grande mansion when it was first built. The house contained a breakfast parlour, dining room, drawing room, four bedrooms, two kitchens and three servants’ bedrooms!

The green trim painted on the roof, gables, and verandah gives the building a unique touch. But the most exciting part of this house is the scalloped decorations on the columns located on the porch. This little added ornamentation on an otherwise plain house really stands out.

Sadlers Cottage

The tiny white cottage at #25 is also called ‘Sadler’s Cottage‘ and was built in 1838. While it’s been minimally renovated over the years, the main elements of the old sandstone Georgian design remain. Georgian architecture consisted of an iconic hipped roof, central door with flanking casement windows, and white plaster walls with sandstone quoin blocks on the corners.

19 Queen St.

On the corner of Crown Street, we find a slightly unusual house at #19 Queen Street. The 1830’s style house was used as a school and post office in the early days of the settlement. Later used as a boarding house in the 1930s. The most interesting part of this house is the attic space with skillion dormer windows looking out onto the street.

Watermans Arms

A bright green hipped roof and arched entrance marks the Old Watermans Arms at #5 Queen Street. This house was built in the 1850s and was initially used for religious services for the Congregational Church. Later on, the house was used as an inn for visitors.

Tasmanian Family History Society

On the corner of Petchey Street, we find two of the most historic sandstone buildings in Bellerive. The first is the old post office, built in 1897. The beautiful clock tower faces out onto the street, where you can still make out the impressive sandstone carvings. When it was built, the city spent a whopping 635 pounds on its construction. This would amount to about 83,078 pounds today!!! Currently, the building is used as the Genealogical Society Library and the Sound Preservation Society Museum.

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Boer War Memorial

In the center of the road is a large stone memorial with a lampost on top. This is the Boer War Memorial. The memorial is dedicated to local resident Frank Morrisby who died in South Africa during the war. Morrisby was the last Tasmanians to die during World War One. Despite his name being only one of the many Tasmanians who served, the structure still represents all those who lost their lives.

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Old Police Station

Opposite the old Post office is the Bellerive Community Arts Centre. This brick and sandstone building was built in 1842 and first established as the original Police station in the Bellerive. The sandstone section of the building was the original cell block and the brick addition is one of the newer sections of the building.

Natone House

Turn down Petchey street where you’ll find Natone Cottage. This beautiful stone house with white iron lace columned verandah was built in 1863 for Hobart judge Sir Valentine Fleming. As judges probably weren’t the most popular in a convict community, many of them opted for more private, remote estates. The Welsh slate roof is original, as is the lush old garden. But the view from this vantage point is one of the best reasons to hike up to the cottage.

Cripps DT & JL Bakehouse

Turning right along Campbell Street, make your way to the large sign with the words “Cripps DT & JL Bakehouse” outside. This is Bellrive’s most infamous bakery. They are known to have the best scallop pie in Hobart! Scallop pie is thought to be the national dish of Tasmania. It was invented in 1850 by Joseph Keen. The pie is made with fresh Tasmanian scallops, the best of which still have their bright orange roe, mixed with the curry and vegetables. If you’re in the mood for a sweet treat, then you need to try one of their many flavours of donuts! Something for everyone that is for sure.

Bellerive Yacht Club

Being a waterfront city, the Yacht club in Bellerive has long been one of the most popular sports in the town. The yacht club was established in 1926 to bring more people into Bellerive. Today, the club has over 800 members. Walking around the harbour, you can spot some truly incredible yachts and maybe even catch a few boats on their way out for a day at sea.

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10 Cambridge Rd

As we make our way back to the parking lot where we started our tour, make a stop at #10 Cambridge Rd. This is the location of the oldest village store, once the Bellerive General Store. It still sells food to this day just as it would have hundreds of years earlier. The building is now Belles Burgers and one of Bellerive’s best restaurants.

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 S. S. Kosciusko

Along Cambridge road, you’ll see the remains of the S S Kosciusko, one of the longest-serving ferries. The boat carried passengers off from Sydney Harbour starting in 1911. It survived a collision with the ferry Baragoola in December 1926. In 1975 she was brought to Hobart after the Tasman Bridge disaster. The construction of the Tasman Bridge was supposed to end the need for ferries to and from Bellerive. But in 1975 the central part of the bridge collapsed, killing 12 people. The S S Kosciusko arrived and served the city for many years until the bridge was fixed. In 1991 the boat was too old and run down to continue servicing passengers and most of it was scrapped. The lower part of the stern remains as an attraction attached to the Waterfront Hotel pub.

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Waterfront Hotel

The Clarence Hotel, now named the Waterfront Hotel, has stood here since 1879 and is one of the earliest surviving hotels in the area. The design of the hotel isn’t anything special but the most notable part of the building are the old sandstone cornerstone used to frame the building.

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Hooked on Bellerive

For lunch or dinner, you need to stop off at ‘Hooked on Bellerive.’Hooked on Bellerive is a total hidden gem. Although it’s small in size, located on a literal floating pontoon, the interior is a gorgeous blend of nautical design and modern aesthetics. The glass windows along the water’s edge make you feel like you’re dining right on the water. And the windows even open right up on hot days. The food is as traditional as can be with a small menu consisting of fried fish, scallops, oysters and calamari served with a side of chips and salad. The wonderfully friendly staff here makes you feel like family.!

Heading back to central Hobart, you’ll get a beautiful view of the city at night as you cross back over the Tasman Bridge. The lights of the city dancing off the dark water is a sight to see and another reason to come on over to Bellerive. Hopefully, you enjoyed this tour and discovered some of the unique natural features of Bellerive and learned a bit more about the amazing Tasmanian architecture found in this suburban neighbourhood.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

References: Tasmanian National Trust | On the Convict Trail

The post The Best of Hobart, Tasmania: Historic Tour of Seaside Bellerive first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Tasmania is truly a spectacular place, and if you’re making a trip all the way out to Australia, you need to make time to fly over to this secluded island to experience all it has to offer. I thought you could easily spend a week here and have prepared a wonderfully rich and diverse week-long itinerary. If your trip is shorter, you can easily pick and choose your favourite parts of this tour to customize your own adventure.

Table Of Contents

1. History
2. Travelling Around Tasmania
3. When to Go?
4. What to Pack?
5. National Park Fees
6. How to Arrive
7. Ferry
8. Day 1 – Arriving & Exploring Launceston
9. Day 2 – Road to the Bay of Fire
10. Day 3 – Freycinet National Park
11. Day 4 – Wielangta Forest
12. Day 5 – Tasman National Park
13. Day 6 – Port Arthur to Hobart
14. Day 7 – Exploring Hobart

History

Tasmania is located 240 km away from the mainland of Australia. Tasmania is known as one of Australia’s “natural states” as 42% of its land is protected. This includes several national parks and gorgeous World Heritage sites. The native indigenous tribes, who inhabitated the country for over 30,000 years before colonization, are significantly different than the tribes on mainland Australia. Their unique traditions grew from their love and reliance on the waters which surround the island.

The British Arrival

The island was settled by Europeans in 1804. Britain saw that the French had been exploring the area and rushed to beat them to claim the land for England. They used the newly colonized island as a place to house the British Empire’s penal colony population. The island was initially called Van Diemen’s Land. It was named after Anthony van Diemen, the Dutch colonial governor who ruled in the 16th and 17th centuries. van Diemen had commanded naval explorations, and it was under his direction that the island was first discovered in 1642.

Free settlers from England began to arrive on the shores of Tasmania as they were promised free land grants as well as free convict labour. By 1825, over 75,00 convicts had been sent to Van Diemen’s Land. Many of them had finished their sentences and decided to start their new life here in the colony. Sadly, the British saw the indigenous tribes as their enemy and, over the years, massacred almost the entire population. By 1830 only 300 indigenous people were left on the island. Many of the few remaining indigenous people later died from the diseases introduced by the British to which they had no immunity. It’s heartbreaking to imagine how such a rich culture could be wiped out in such a short amount of time. 

The Modern Age

In 1901, Tasmania joined with the five other Australian colonies to form the Commonwealth of Australia. After the closure of the penal colonies, the island’s main form of income was through whaling, fishing and most lucrative of all, mining. The mining industry dried up shortly after WWI. After this point, they began to focus on agriculture and the productions of fruits and vegetables. After WWII, many people started to immigrate to Tasmania as it was seen as the “Sanitorium of the South” as its quiet and zen-like natural environment was perfect for those seeking peace. This gave the population a little boost, but it still feels like a quaint island with extremely friendly locals happy to welcome tourists to their hidden gem in the ocean.

Travelling Around Tasmania

Rental Car

Tasmania is best traversed by car. Tasmania might be a big island, but it has a small population, so large-scale public transport is really lacking. So you’re the best option is to fly into Launceston (or Hobart) and rent yourself a car. Cars can be picked up in Launceston and dropped off in Hobart. Or vice versa if you prefer to reverse your trip. Car rentals in Tasmania can be as little as $96 USD a day.

Camper Van

Although a Camper Van is a much more costly experience, they also allow you to sleep anywhere you want. In a place as scenic as Tasmania, this is a real treat! The other plus with a camper van is that you have a kitchen wherever you go. This way you can easily stock up on groceries before you leave the big cities. You’ll never find yourself having a place to stop for something to eat. The downside obviously is the cost of gas. Another downside could be if you’re not familiar with driving a camper van. This can be a bit of a learning curve. Thankfully the roads in Tasmania are generally pretty empty. so you don’t need to worry about navigating through intense traffic.

Cost of Gas

As of March 2021, gas prices in Tasmania were $1.40 Australian per litre. The trip mileage can vary greatly depending on how many detours you take along the way. But overall you should be covering around 800 km. But I would add even more since you are bound to make some detours along the way as you see things that catch your eye.

Notes on Food & Gas

Some of the areas we will travel through are very remote, so be sure to research before you head out for the day where your food and gas stops will be to ensure you’ll have enough before the next stop. A small fabric cooler will go a long way to keep your grocery food and drinks cold on your journey. I am always sure to keep a large bag of room temperature snacks with me as well. And always be sure you pack plenty of water.

Bus Tour

If you can’t drive or don’t want the stress of driving yourself, you can always join a bus tour. One of my favourite companies is Under Down Under Tours. They offer a comparable 7-day tour of the island. It includes all your accommodations, pickups and drop-offs, and small group size. Also included in your booking are all the national park fees. Their tours do not include food, but they do stop at restaurants, cafes and takeaways along the journey. Also, if you opt to stay in a hostel accommodation, you can always use their kitchen for cooking upon arrival.

The best things about their tours is that they give you a choice of accommodations. They offer both hostel rooms as well as motel accommodation. And you can even get a cheaper price if you are a single traveller. This is such a great option. I’ve been in many a situation when I wanted to go on a group tour, but the accommodations were always double occupancy, and I was on my own.

Cost

The seven-day tour costs $800 USD per person for the hostel dorm rooms. $886 USD per person for a twin hostel room. And $1079 USD per person for a twin motel room.

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When to Go?

Tasmania is noticeably colder than the rest of Australia. Don’t come here without checking the weather! We saw a few people step off the plane in shorts and t-shirts in a climate that was more suitable for a winter coat! November to March are the best months to travel when the weather is at its most enjoyable. June, July and August are relatively chilly and rainy. But the prices of hotels are significantly discounted during the rainy season, and the cities are almost empty of tourists! Summer is the peak travel season when you’ll find the hotels to be the priciest but that’s the price you pay (literally) for that beautiful weather.

Whereas international travellers might not find their way to Tasmania, local Australians have been frequenting the island more and more. Be sure to check the dates of any Australian holidays or school breaks as these times may also be much busier and more expensive.

What to Pack?

As mentioned above, you might be surprised to see how different the weather is in Tasmania compared to the mainland. So much of Tasmania is made up of cool temperate rainforests. In addition to your regular travel essentials, there are a few critical items to bring to Tasmania. It’s crucial to pack lots of layerable clothes. These will help keep you warm in the morning, but you can shed them in the afternoon. Unless you going at the peak of the summer, be sure to pack a hat, scarf and gloves. Some of the high points in Tasmania are very windy and you’ll be happy to have the extra protection.

It’s also essential to pack a good raincoat or waterproof windbreaker. This will be super useful since rain is a frequent visitor to Tasmania’s forecasts. The rainforests can get pretty wet as well. Umbrellas are also a good thing to pack in your bag for extra protection. But a good raincoat with a sturdy hood is your best option. There are a few easy hikes in this guide, so while you don’t need professional hiking boots, a good pair of waterproof or water-resistant walking shoes is a must!

National Park Fees

A valid park pass is required for entry to all of Tasmania’s National Parks. Paying these fees individually can add up, so my best advice is to buy a Holiday Pass. You can buy the pass at the first park you visit. Holiday Passes are good for up to two months and cost $80 AUS ($61 USD). When you compare this to the $40 one-day pass, you can see why the holiday pass just makes more sense. You can also buy your pass online before you leave. This will save a few minutes when you enter the park, especially if it’s busy season.

How to Arrive

This tour is designed to go from Launceston to Hobart, but you can easily flip it the other way around. I lived in Syndey when I visited Tasmania, and it was a cheap 2-hour flight from Sydney. A direct flight costs $112 USD one way. If you are departing from Melbourne, flights are almost the exact same. Flying home from Hobart back to Sydney will run you a bit more since it’s a slight loner flight at $160 USD. But remember, these flights are always cheaper during the week. If you’re flexible with your timeline, keep this in mind.

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Ferry

If you are departing from Melbourne, some people opt to take the ferry, dubbed the Spirit of Tasmania. This is the more popular option with local residents who wish to bring their own car along. A one-way journey on the ferry will cost around $90-100 USD for the lowest-economy recliner chair. Or you can opt for a a two-person cabin with a shower and window for $153 USD. The ferry journey is about 10 hours long and runs both during the day and at night. I can’t stand ferries since I get so sick-sea, but for people who love being at sea or who want to save on a night’s hotel, this is a great option!

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Day 1 – Arriving & Exploring Launceston

I like starting my tours in Launceston. Launceston is such a dreamy place to visit and a great introduction to Tasmania. When you arrive in Tasmania, you can get a cab to your hotel, as the rest of the city is very easily accessible by foot and by public transport. You won’t need to start renting your car until you are ready to depart the city.

The first thing I NEED to do once I arrive, after even a short flight, is grab a cup of coffee. And just like the rest of Australia, which is known for its incredible coffee culture, and Tasmania is no different. Sweetbrew is a local hangout for hipsters and tourists alike. Every coffee is perfectly crafted, and their summer berry cake is something I’ll remember forever! Sit and relax here to soak in the atmosphere of this new city.

Explore Historic Launceston

After getting your bearings, and dropping off your luggage at your hotel, it’s time to head out and start exploring! Launceston, located on the northern tip of the state of Tasmania, is one of their two main cities. The other being Hobart, located on the southern end. Launceston is Australia’s third oldest European settlement, established in 1806 after Sydney (in 1788) and Hobart (in 1804). The city is renowned for its well preserved historic buildings. Launceston has some of the best colonial and Victorian architecture anywhere in Australia. Cameron street alone perfectly exemplifies what the rest of Australia would have looked like during the boom times of the 19th century.

You can do your own self-guided walking tour from Albert Hall in the east to the Queen Victoria Museum and Art Gallery in the west. This tour focuses on specific buildings along the route that tell rich tales of the city’s architectural and social history. There are little plaques along the way to help inform you of the stories as you go. And it’s a great way to explore the city on foot.

Sip on Aged Ales at James Boag Brewery Experience

Tasmania’s most famous beer is the Boags beer, which is sold worldwide but highly regarded in Launceston where the brewery is located. On the Brewery Tour experience, you’ll learn all about what makes their beer unique, see how its made and learn about the history of this Tasmanian Brewery.

At the end of the tour, you’ll be invited into their bar where you’ll receive a 30-minute guided beer tasting! Here you’ll be able to taste a flight of their brews paired with locally produced cheese! I’ve been to many a beer tasting but never one which included cheese, so that captured my attention straight away (I’m a HUGE cheese lover) and I did think it really gave an interesting spin on the tasting.

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Cataract Gorge

There is no better place to spend the afternoon than Cataract Gorge. Cataract Gorge is a stunning park in the centre of Launceston. To get to the gorge, you begin by walking along a scenic pathway called the King’s Bridge-Cataract Walk. This leads you around the South Esk River’s edge to the northern part of the gorge’s basin. From here, you can walk across the Alexandra Suspension Bridge. On the other side of the bridge, you’ll find a large swimming pool to be enjoyed in the summer months.

Gorge Scenic Chairlift

The Gorge Scenic Chairlift is one of the best parts of your visit to the gorge. This antique chairlift was built in 1972 and is still the longest single-span lift in the world! We were one of the only people in the park during our visit and figured the lift wouldn’t be open. But to our surprise, a quiet old woman was sitting at the desk to welcome us in and let us ride. It felt almost strange, like they had kept it open just for us. We giggled the entire way across the gorge, swinging our feet, nervously laughing as the chairlift climbed higher and higher. The chairlift crosses 457 metres and moves pretty slowly for you to really take in the scenery around you.

The trip costs $9 USD for a one-way ticket or $12 USD for an “Across & Back” ticket. We opted for the one-way since we enjoyed the walk back to the entrance. The lift is open every day from 9 am, 365 days a year! In the winter it closes at 4:30 pm, in the Spring and Autumn it closes at 5 pm and in Summer from 5:30 pm to 6 pm.

When you get off the chairlift, you can explore the Victorian garden and small cottage restaurant on the other side of the basin. You’ll find unusual Tasmanian flora and fauna, including ferns, exotic plants, and even wild peacocks covering the entire hillside.

Get Spooked on Launceston City Ghost Tours

To end your evening I would highly recommend that a ghost tour! Ok, now I know ghost tours might seem like something kinda cheesy, but I LOVE them. To me, they are just like a history tour but with a slightly macabre angle. Launceston has a deep and dark convict past. It’s said that some of the prisoners who were sentenced here can still be seen roaming the streets, their ghosts clinging to the mortal world. Walking the old streets of Launceston, your guide will tell tales of the past, making the city’s history come alive. There is both an adult-only and family-friendly option, so there is something for all ages! Obviously the family-friendly tour is a little less scary so if you spook easily that might be the tour for you.

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Day 2 – Road to the Bay of Fire

After a relaxing first day exploring the city of Launceston, it’s time to head out onto the road! The area we’re heading into doesn’t have almost any restaurants or even fast-food stops along the way so be sure to pack some food before you leave Launceston. And remember to bring lots of water!

Grindelwald

Just 20-minutes outside the city is the city of Grindelwald. Grindelwald Tasmania is a minature replicate of the Swiss village of Grindelwald. The charming little town is located in the scenic Tamar Valley. Driving through this beautiful valley is such a fantastic way to introduce yourself to the Tasmanian landscape. But Grindelwald isn’t a theme park; it’s a real neighbourhood where real families still live. The concept to recreate this place began in the 1980s as a unique take on suburban residential developments. 

The idea came about from a Dutch immigrant named Roelf Vos. To re-create the Swiss village, they built the houses using classic Swiss architecture and added sweet details like balcony rails in the shape of tulips and scalloped-wooden eaves. Plus there is even an Alpine-themed restaurant and shopping center. If you didn’t grab a coffee on your way out on the road, I would recommend stopping by Missasippy Cafe near the Alpenrose Bistro & Bar. If for nothing else but to enjoy the almost theme park-esque stylings of the minature town square.

Batman Bridge

From Grindlewald, travel north along highway C733 that travels along the scenic River Tamar. Although named “the Tamar River” on the map, its proper indigenous name is actually ‘kanamaluka.’ And despite being called a river, it’s actually tidal estuary. While driving along the water’s edge might be a little less direct, the views you get of the landscape are just spectacular. It’s lovely to enjoy this scenery before heading into the dense forests. 

Eventually, we make our way East, crossing over the Batman Bridge. Yes, that’s right, ‘Batman’ Bridge. Sadly, the bridge isn’t named for the famous cartoon hero but after John Batman, a Launceston businessman and co-founder of Melbourne. Built in 1966, the bridge was actually the first cable-stayed bridge in Australia and one of the first of its kind worldwide! If there’s not too much traffic as you cross, be sure to take it slow and enjoy the incredible view from up there across the valley.

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Hillwood Berries

Once you’ve crossed over the bridge, continue down highway C727 towards Hillwood. Hillwood is a tiny town famous for its agriculture. Tasmania is known for being one of the most prolific producers of fresh berries in Australia. George Peacock set up the first Tasmanian jam manufacturing company in Hobart in 1850. Tasmania was the ideal climate for growing berries. When Peacock arrived in the new colony in Tasmania, there was a wealth of open fields to establish farms. Although the Peacock company has since closed, the farms growing berries across Tasmania continue to produce a wealth of these incredible fruits. 

One such place you can visit is Hillwood Berries. The farm is open for “pick-your-own berries” from November to March. Berry picking is an excellent activity if you need to stretch your legs and allows you to enjoy the natural environment around you. Picking a small box doesn’t take long either, so it’s a short activity. But they also have prepackaged berries if you need a snack for the road. They also have a small cafe and grocery store inside with unique local products, delicious savoury pastries, and decadent desserts. I always am sure to pick up little snacks and portable meals whenever I can at places like this. This way, I’m sure to have food with me even when there isn’t anywhere to stop later in the day. If you want to grab a to-go lunch, you can eat it at the picnic area at our next stop.

Lilydale Falls

From Hillwood Farms, we begin our journey into the interior of Tasmania. The landscape almost immediately seems to change. The river disappears and the road winds through hilly valleys covered in eucalyptus trees. The tall mountains and hillsides rolling up and down by your window as you drive.

One of the more undiscovered hiking trails along our route is the Lilydale Falls Reserve. The first waterfall on the trail is found just 10-minutes from the parking lot. Other hiking trails might be more rigorous, but this one provides such a beautiful view after only a short walk. Along the way, you’ll be able to spot Tasmania’s tall eucalyptus trees and lush fern-covered landscape. The trail passes by two little waterfalls. While they aren’t immensely tall, there is something about the coziness of the scenery and ease of the trail that makes visiting them so enjoyable. The rest area near the car park is a great place to picnic and use the restrooms.

Bridestowe Lavender Estate

Continuing along highway B81, head slightly northeast towards Bridestowe Lavender Estate. This farm is home to great waves of lavender fields. The lavender generally blooms from December through to early February, but their website has more up-to-date information. During the rest of the year, you are free to wander the fields and view the other native vegetation. There are even self-guided tours to learn more about the history of Bridestowe. 

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Their shop is a great place to buy local Tasmanian lavender products. They also have a cafe/restaurants where you can dine and try some of their iconic lavender flavoured ice creams. If you don’t have an interest in seeing the lavender fields when they’re not in bloom, you can always skip this destination and just go directly to our next stop.

Legerwood Memorial Tree Forest

Along the road towards the eastern part of the island is the Legerwood Memorial Tree Forest. In 1918, after the first World War, several great trees were planted by the remaining family members of honoured Tasmanian fallen soldiers. Almost a hundred years later, the trees grew so large they were thought to be a danger to the community and were set to be torn down. But the community was devastated as the trees were so important to the historical legacy of Tasmania and their township. 

Instead of just uprooting them, the stumps of the trees were turned into sculptural memorials. Each stump was carved to represent a poignant scene from the first world war. Other trees were carved in the memory of the soldier to whom the tree was dedicated to. While the sculptures are very rudimentary and made by untrained artists, I love the fact that the community came together to ensure the memory of these soldiers lived on. Some art doesn’t need to be high brow. Some art is more about expression and walking through this grove of trees; I feel like you really get a sense of the impact the war made on even this little village.

Little Blue Lake

Travelling along highway A3 through B82, we drive further north towards Little Blue Lake in South Mount Cameron. The lake is spectacular. It glows almost neon blue in the sunlight. But don’t you dare dip your foot into the water! The luminescent colour is formed as the result of alluvial tin mining and is packed with toxic heavy metals! Despite the toxicity, the area is a HUGE draw for spectators as it is truly one of the most impressive sights you’ve ever seen! Just north of Little Blue Lake, there is a gas station, so be sure to fill up.

As you drive down the highway and through Ansons Road, keep your eye out for wildlife. This area is a part of Mount William National Park, which is a protected environment for the Forester Kangaroo. The Forester Kangaroo is the largest kangaroo species in Tasmania and the second largest marsupial in the world.

Policeman’s Point

A 40-minute drive from the gas station will take you right to the coast! It’s incredible to see as you approach. Head down to the Policeman’s Point campground parking lot, where you can leave the car and look out on the incredible vista. There are also public bathrooms here if you need to use the facilities. Policeman’s Point is a part of the Bay of Fires Conservations area. The Bay of Fires area around here is known for its incredible white sandy beaches and clear blue waters. Many people don’t think of Tasmania as having such perfect beaches, but this one is spectacular! Standing on the edge of the Bay of Fires walkway on a clear day, you might be able to spot the Eddystone Point Lighthouse.

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The Dutch navigator Abel Tasman, for whom the entire island is named after, was the first explorer to set their sights on Eddystone Point in 1642. It wasn’t until 1875 when a group of hazardous rocks were discovered below the waterline, that the lighthouse was built. It was made from local pink granite and constructed to help the sailors coming into port at St. Helen’s.

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Bay of Fires

Head back along Ansons Bay Road, south towards through the Bay of Fires Conservations Area. The Bay of Fires was named by Captain Tobias Furneaux in 1773. When the captain first arrived in Tasmania, the first thing he saw upon landing was a group of fires set along the beach by the Aboriginal people living on the island. It was such a powerful sight that he named the area after that encounter.

An iconic part of the Bay of Fires are the coastal rocks covered in bright orange lichen. The rocks found along the shore here are made of dolerite. The most extensive of all dolerite formations worldwide, are found here in Tasmania.

Meresta Eatery

One of the Bay of Fires’ best views can be found in ‘The Gardens.’ To access the Gardens, you need to head east towards Bingalon Bay and then make a sharp turn north up C848. If you brought a picnic dinner, this would be the perfect place to eat it. But if you are desperate for food, you’re in luck since there is a fantastic restaurant in Bingalong Bay. Meresta Eatery is a wonderful restaurant serving up great food made with the best ingredients from Tasmania. Their restaurant is often very busy since it’s one of the only ones in the area, but they also offer take-way for a little picnic in the Gardens.

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The Gardens

When you finally arrive at the Gardens, it will be around dinner time, so find a spot on the beach to enjoy dinner and a sunset! The Gardens were named by Lady Jane Franklin, the wife of the Governor of Tasmania, in the early 1800s. She loved flowers, and when she came to visit, the wildflowers were blooming all across the coastline, making it appear as a giant garden. The waters here are just crystal clear and if you’re lucky, keep your eyes peeled to see if you can spot a pod of dolphins on their way home. There are even humpback whales that migrate through the area during certain times of the year!

Bay of Fires Accommodation

My favourite place to stay is near Skeleton Bay and Binalong Bay. The area was once a retirement village, but it has been transformed into a little spot for surfers, fishers and people who visit the area for snorkelling and nature walks. There are dozens of holiday homes here, most of which can be booked on Airbnb. There are also some rentable bungalows in the area as well. If you need more accommodation options, you can go down to St. Helens. If you are travelling with camping gear or a camper van, there are several amazing camping grounds in this area. 

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Day 3 – Freycinet National Park

The Bays Kitchen

To get your day started, wake up and head on over to The Bays Kitchen. This cafe is such a surprise to find in such a far-off place. Their passionfruit cronut is wildly delicious. But they also serve classic Australian breakfast favourites like bacon sandwiches and meat pies.

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Bicheno

Now that you’ve filled up for breakfast, it’s time to get back on the road. There is a gas station in St. Helen that is a great place to fill up. From there, we drive down the scenic A3 highway towards our next destination. Tasmania is such an interesting island to drive through as the landscape and greenery around the coastline are so different than the interior, which is much more like a rainforest.

After an hour and a half of driving, you’ll arrive in the small coastal town of Bicheno. This town is one of the major fishing ports in Tasmania and a popular beach resort. Everything from crayfish, abalone and scallops are caught just off the shores of the city.

Bicheno Blowhole

One of the most popular locations to visit is the Bicheno Blowhole. The rocks along this shore are made of granite, but the crashing waves have carved a small sea cave shelf underneath the stones over the years. Eventually, a small hole began to form on the roof of this sea cave, creating a natural blowhole for the waves to burst through. Making an enormous spray above from the water rushes in. It’s a hit for kids and adults alike as every spray is different. Be careful, because you might just get wet! Bicheno was once a popular whaling spot in the 1800s, so it seems even more fitting that Bicheno would have formed its very own “blowhole.”

Whalers Lookout

Whalers Lookout is a steep but short 10-minute walk that leads to two lookout platforms. There is both an east-facing and west-facing platform. From here, you have a panoramic view of the town and the great crescent harbour.

Lobster Shack Tasmania

Bicheno is known for its seafood, so you absolutely must have lunch at the Lobster Shack Tasmania! This laid-back restaurant specializes in everything from lobster rolls to fresh oysters, local mussels and grilled salmon. Even just their house fish and chips is divine! Their outdoor deck tables sit off of the water and provide a stunning view of the pristine boat harbour surrounding it.

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Diamond Island Nature Reserve

Just off the coast, to the north of Bicheno, is the Diamond Island Nature Reserve. The island is so close that you can even walk across the sandbar to the island during low tide. The island is home to a unique form of wildlife in Australia; the fairy penguins. These are minature penguins with the most darling blue colouring. All the little pathways you see on the island are formed by the penguins. This secluded, uninhabited island has become the penguin’s primary rookery. Be careful where you step to be sure to don’t crush one of their dens. Also, keep an eye on the water levels! You don’t get stuck on the island when the tide starts to come back in.

Grab some Groceries!

Before leaving Bicheno, head over the IGA supermarket to grab some items for a little picnic dinner on the beach at the last hiking spot!

Freycinet National Park

Just 30-minutes down the road from Bicheno, you can drive over to the Freycinet National Park Tourist Information center. Here you can pick up and learn more about the different walking and hiking trails that wind through this monumental natural wonderland that is Freycinet National Park.

Accessibility

The parks department installed a 10-minute wheelchair-accessible circuit track that begins at the visitor center. While it would be great to see this expanded further over the years, it’s nice to know they have made an effort to take into account accessibility.

Wineglass Trail

The Wineglass Bay Trail is 6 km long and takes about 2.5 to 3.5 hours to complete based on how fast you go. But trust me, you’ll want to stop lots along the way! Not because it’s a particularly hard trail, but because there are so many amazing lookout points to admire. While the pathway isn’t too rough, you should definitely have some good walking shoes for this hike. The bathroom in the car park is the only washroom on the route, so be sure to use it before you go.

The Wineglass Bay walk takes you up to the top of the hill, where you’ll find the lookout. This point gives you a great view across the saddle-shaped wineglass bay beach below. The bright turquoise waters and almost impossible to believe white sands make for one of the most iconic views of Tasmania.

Wineglass Bay

From the top of the lookout, you can walk down the 1000 stairs to Wineglass Bay Beach. While this might seems like a trek, it’s well worth it to relax and explore the beach for yourself (not just from above). You can stroll along the sands, enjoying the sounds of the softly crashing waves while birds chirp in the distance. If you walk to the south end of the beach, you’ll be rewarded with a magnificent view of ‘the Hazards’ mountains.

Because of the tall mountains which surround this bay, flora and fauna here are protected from the elements. Therefore this area produces a superb array of plants and animal life. Everything from wallabies, pademelons, and echidnas are commonly seen on land, and you might even be lucky enough to spot seals sunbathing on the rocks. If you brought some picnicking food with you, this is the perfect spot for it! And you’ll need to gather your energy for the 1000 stair hike back to the car park! If you planning the hike to end around sunset, once you get back to the top of the stairs, you’ll get an even more incredible view of the sun setting across the water.

Honeymoon Bay

If you are still looking for a place to watch the sunset, head over to Honeymoon Bay. This peaceful beach is a popular destination for picnics, birdwatching and snorkelling. But at sunset, you can understand why it might be called Honeymoon Bay as the scenery just screams romance!

Coles Bay Ice Creamery

If you didn’t bring anything to eat for dinner or want to grab a late-night dessert, head back into Coles Bay village and over to Coles Bay Ice Creamery. Coles Bay Ice Creamery serves up fantastic fried fish and chips! Located in the quaint seaside village, this retro-styled shop also offers 24 flavours of Tasmanian-made ice cream and a wide range of hot and cold drinks. Dine inside or out on the patio tables with panoramic views of the Hazards mountains of the Freycinet peninsula. The fried Crumbed Tasmanian Scallops with chips, aioli dipping sauce and local craft beer is a match made in heaven.

Finish off the meal with a couple scoops of ice creams. They have such unique flavours as; salted caramel crunch, lavender, watermelon, Irish creme with scorched almonds, or Viennese coffee. If you still have any energy left, you can grab a cone to-go and head over to the Esplanade to enjoy your sweet treat.

Freycinet Retreat

There are lots of holiday home rentals around Coles Bay and near the Hazards. You can get huge homes for the whole family or little apartments perfect to crash in after a long day of hiking. If you brought a camper or camping equipment Freycinet National Park’s campground is a wonderful place to set up for the evening. But my favourite place to stay is at Freycinet Retreat. This is an eco-certified, boutique hotel, nestled in thick forest on the side of Mount Paul and surrounded by the National Parkland. The rooms are impeccably designed and provide a stunning view of the Tasmania landscape. Their walk-out balconies offer the chance to spot the wildlife that surrounds the sanctuary. It’s a luxury experience but well worth the price.

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Day 4 – Wielangta Forest

Spend as much time in the morning in your room as possible, as the mornings in the Freycinet National Park are a particularly special time of day. Enjoy a coffee on the patio as you watch the sunrise, and listen to the sound of the animals as they sound the alarm as dawn rises in the distance.

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Kate’s Berry Farm

As we get back on the road, we start to head down south. On the way, let’s stop off at Kate’s Berry Farm. Kate has been harvesting and growing berries since 1988, when she bought this property. The main reason? The magnificent views of Tasmania’s eastern coastline. Here, Kate grows raspberries, strawberries, red and black currants. She turns these fruits into everything from jams, ice cream, and baked pastries. 

The biggest draw to Kate’s farm is her ‘Just Desserts Café’, which serves fresh-baked scones with their homemade jam, fruit and meat pies and even Belgian waffles. Basically everything you need for a mouthwatering breakfast. Another item that you can’t leave without trying is Kate’s handmade chocolates. She combines rich Belgian chocolate with her berries and other Tasmania ingredients to create incredible flavours. Grab a box to go to enjoy on the road when you get peckish.

Spiky Bridge

Along our route today, you need to stop to see one of the stranger side-of-the-road attractions, the Spiky Bridge. The bridge was built by convicts in 1843 out of sharp fieldstones. The bridge is located on the old convict road that connected Swansea with Little Swanport and the east coast road to Hobart. 

The stones were laid vertically on the parapet to give the bridge its name: Spike Bridge. There are two differing opinions on why the spikes were added like this. The first is said to have been made to prevent cattle from falling over the bridge. The other is that they were added to help the bridge survive the harsh elements of the coastline. Either way, it is one of the more obscure scenes from the Tasmania roadside.

Triabunna Ferry to Maria Island

Travel down the A3 until you reach Tribunna. Head down to the Triabunna Wharf, where you can get the Ferry to Maria Island. The Ferry departs from Triabunna to Maria Island at 10:00 am and 11:30 am. Departure times from Maria Island back to Triabunna are from 2:30 pm and 4:15 pm. Be aware that the Ferry does not operate on Tuesdays or Thursdays. A return adult fare costs $45 AUS. The best plan is to arrive at 11:30 am and head back on the 2:30 pm ferry. This gives you enough time to explore the island, but you can head back before the end of the day. 

Darlington Convict Site

Exiting the Ferry, you arrive in the tiny settlement of Darlington. This old convict probation station is now considered a World Heritage Australian Convict Site. Darlington was the sole settlement on the island, but there are no permanent inhabitants aside from the park rangers today. Upon arrival on the island, stop off at the ranger station for a map of the island to help you get around.

Today, the Darlington township is the most intact example of a convict probation station in Australia. It is one of eleven convict sites recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. In the Darlington historic township, you can still visit some of the old buildings from the 1820s. This includes the commissariat store, the workers’ cottages and the old penitentiary.

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 When the convict station was open, it was home to over 600 male convicts crammed into these overcrowded buildings. The old prison that still stands here dates back to 1824. It was built to house convicts, mainly from Ireland, including the Irish nationalist leader William Smith O’Brien. He was exiled for his part in the Young Irelander Rebellion of 1848. Interestingly, O’Brien didn’t have to live in the crowded penitentiary. He had a cottage built near the penal colony that you can still visit today. Shockingly you can even opt to stay overnight in the old jail cells! There is also a campground on the island near the old Penitentiary buildings where you can camp should you choose to. Eventually, the prison was shut down, with a halting of convicts arriving from England. 

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The Island as National Park

The island was purchased by an Italian entrepreneur, Bernacchi, who wanted to harness the island’s agricultural resources. He opened “the Grand Hotel” in 1888 and turned some of the old convict buildings into a pleasure resort. This “sanitarium” was designed for city folks to escape and relax in the peace and quiet of the countryside. Funny to imagine that this place of harmony was once a horrible spot of punishment only a few years early.

Sadly, Bernacchi’s venture was short-lived, and eventually, the township passed hands to a small cohort of farmers. Farming ended when the Tasmanian Government began purchasing properties from their owners to declare the island a national park.

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Maria Island Wildlife

Animals to spot while you walk along the trails include; the bare-nosed wombat, eastern grey kangaroos, red-necked wallabies. There are also fallow deer, ringtail possums, echidnas, and many, many snakes! Birds are also very prevalent on the island. In fact, there are even some swift parrots, Cape Barren geese and twelve of Tasmania’s endemic birds, so bring your binoculars!

Painted Cliffs Walk

From the Darlington settlement, take a walk along the island’s eastern side. Here you can see Maria Island’s spectacular painted cliffs wrapping around the coastline. The painted cliffs are made of these fantastic swirling colours and patterns. The design is caused by the groundwater percolating through the sandstone over time. The waves crashing onto the sand create erosion resulting in these magical honeycomb patterns, potholes and notches. Mother nature is such a wonder!

The Painted Cliff walk starts along the coastline and heads back to Darlington via the island’s interior. This winding trail provides views of the waterside and forest-like landscape of the inner island. The walk takes around 1.5 to 2.5 hours, so you can easily walk it in enough time to be back at the Ferry for the 2:30 departure. Whenever you get a chance to look out over the water, keep a keen eye out. During certain times of the year, you might be lucky enough to spot a whale during its annual migration! 

Three Thumb State Reserve

Get back on the Ferry at 2:30 pm so you can get back on the road with sunlight to spare. Make your way to the Three Thumb State Reserve. This lookout point can be driven directly up to; no hiking require at all! And you’ll be shocked at the incredible view you’ll be greeted with as you arrive in the picnic area. It looks out over Prosser Bay and Great Oyster Bay at the Peninsula and the ocean beyond. This area is home to Swifty parrots and wedge-tailed eagles, as we all as several threatened plant species.

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Wielangta Forest

Only 20 down the road from the lookout, you continue on into the Wielangta Forest. The Wielangta forest is a glacial forest containing lush eucalyptus trees and giant ferns. The forest is home to some rare and threatened species, including the Tasmanian wedge-tailed eagle, swift parrot, Wielangta stag beetle, spotted-tail quoll and eastern barred bandicoot. They have even discovered a rare orchid inside this unique forest.

Stop at the Wielangta Forest Picnic Area, where you can walk along the Wielangta Walk that weaves itself along the Sandspit River. The walk is pretty long, but you need only go about 20-minutes in to still get a great sampling of the fantastic temperate rainforest. Something only to be found in Tasmania!

Murdunna Roadhouse

On your way towards the last stopping point of the night, head over to Murdunna Roadhouse. Although this looks like a gas station with a small supermarket inside, the building hides a fantastic little cafe with everything from a deli counter to freshly shucked oysters! The fish and chip are made fresh and surprisingly sumptuous for somewhere you’d expect to serve nothing but chocolate bars and soda pops. Pick up some items to make yourself a picnic dinner as the accommodation we recommend for the night has a small kitchen. If you are staying somewhere else, you can also get many premade meals here you can eat without much prep. I would also advise you to stock up on some food for tomorrow’s breakfast and lunch as there aren’t many options for food as we drive deeper into the Tasman peninsula.

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Eaglehawk Neck / Teralina

Passing over into the Tasman Peninsula, we cross over the narrow isthmus called Eaglehawk Neck. An isthmus is a narrow piece of land connecting two larger areas across an expanse of water by which they are otherwise separated. The Tasman Peninsula was originally called ‘Turrakana’ by the indigenous people who once inhabited this part of the island. Before the invasion of the British, who eradicated almost the entire population in the short time after their arrival. The peninsula is best known for being the location of historic convict site Port Arthur and for its natural rugged coastline where you can find the Tasman National Park.

The Dog line

The Eaglehawk Neck or ‘Teralina’ was used by the British as a place to stop any escaping convicts from the southern Port Arthur penitentiary. As the expanse of land was only 30 metres wide at its narrowest point, the British employed a series of dogs chained to posts to warn the guards of anyone attempting to get through unannounced. In addition to the line of chain, very aggressive dogs, there was 24-hour surveillance by heavily armed soldiers.

Eaglehawk Pavilions

Finish your night at the Eaglehawk Pavilions. This is another boutique hotel located right at the mouth of the Tasman Sea and Pirates Bay! There are only two pavillions so book this accommodation early. Each one of these little holiday homes has an outdoor bbq or indoor kitchen. If you are looking for a camping spot consider the Sunset Beach Holiday Spot just up the road.

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Day 5 – Tasman National Park

Tasman National Park

After loading up on coffee or tea while soaking in the sunrise on the water, it’s time to get back on the road. The first stop of the day is at the tip of Pirates Bay, at the ‘Blowhole.’ This blowhole is very similar to the one we saw in Bicheno, with a spray of misty water exploding from a hold in the sea cave below. Above the blowhole, you can walk out towards the Fossil Bay Lookout, where you can see the entirety of the dramatic coastline spread out in front of you.

Tasman Arch

Walk a few minutes along the pathway towards the great Tasman Arch. This incredible cliff side looks out over the southeast tip of Tasmania and out towards the ocean. Towering up above the water, over 300 meters above, to be exact, are these amazing dolerite cliffs. The cliffs have been naturally carved by the wind and water that batter the cliffside carving out over thousand and thousands of years this archway. It looks so artfully deliberate like someone came and made it as a frame to the great ocean on the other side. Once more, mother nature just on full display here in Tasmania!

Doo-lishus

If you are feeling peckish, you need to see if it’s late enough in the morning for the Doo-lishus food truck to be open. This side of the road establishment is a mainstay for visitors and even the locals. They have more than just the traditional fish and chips, too; you can get scallops and squid as well as freshly made meat pies and steamed mussels. Prices are a bit high, but since the food is almost brought to you in one of the most picturesque locations, you’re paying a premium for that. 

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Cape Hauy Walk

Get back on the road and make your way through the island’s centre towards the southeastern tip, at the Tasman National Park near the parking lot to the Cape Hauy Trail. This hike is the longest included in this itinerary. The entire hike takes about 4-hours to complete the return journey. As the vegetation up here on the cliffs is relatively low to the ground, you pretty much always get a beautiful view of the stunning coastline. So feel free to make the hike as long or as short as you see fit. There’s no pressure to walk the entirety. You can turn back whenever you see fit. If you do plan on doing the entire hike, be sure you bring some food along with you for a bit of picnic at the endpoint around the 2-hour mark.

The trek starts from the boat docks at Fortescue Bay and follows the edge of the steep dolerite cliffs. Towards the end of the hike, you’ll be able to see the sea stacks that the rocks form. These have also been dubbed the “candlesticks” or “totem poles.” These rock formations have split off from the mainland and now stand on their own. Many climbers and abseiler use these rocks to climb, and you can often watch their daring antics as you continue on your walk. Really makes your walk feel like childs play in comparison to those daredevils.

Remarkable Cave

With exhausted feet, it’s time to head back into the car and bid adieu to the natural beauty of the National Park as we head west, over to Port Arthur. But before heading to Port Arthur for the rest of the day, drive to the southern tip of Tasmania, where you’ll find the Remarkable Cave. The Remarkable Cave is famous for its unique form when gazed upon from the viewing deck near the water’s edge. The two sizeable sandstone outcrops were worn away by the splashing of the waves over time. This once more created a hollow cave underneath. Hiking down the stairs to get to the viewpoint, you can make out the shape of the sea cave, and you’ll be amazed to see that it takes on the form of Tasmania! Just incredible.

Port Arthur Motor Inn

After a scenic drive back to Port Arthur, it’s time to find a place to lay your head. Port Arthur is such a charming town, despite its rather sordid convict past. One of my favourite places to stay in Port Arthur is at the Port Arthur Motor Inn. This amazing and quaint hotel is actually located inside the historic Port Arthur Convict site. It’s like staying inside a bit of history. Not only are the room very affordable, but all the rooms also look right out over the scenic Port Arthur site and the bay. Best of all, there is also an amazing restaurant on-site, so you don’t even have to leave your room if you don’t feel like getting up for dinner after your long day of hiking!

Ghost Tour

One of the best ways to experience the darker side of Port Arthur is at night. Specifically at one of their evening lantern-lit ghost tours. The ghost tours are even more popular than the regular site tours, and they book up fast, so best to book that tour well in advance. Since the site was such a place of pain and suffering, it is the perfect location for hauntings. Whether you believe in ghosts or not, the storytelling that takes place here is phenomenal and seeing the site at night is a really unique experience. If you don’t feel like leaving your room, you can simply sit out on the balcony as the sun sets and read over my ghost stories all about Port Arthur! Trust me, you don’t need to be there to get a good scare.

Day 6 – Port Arthur to Hobart

To start our sixth day in Tasmania, we make our way to the old convict settlement of Port Arthur. The site at Port Arthur is one of the best-preserved Australian Convict sites and one of the largest settlements. This site gives a fantastic look back in time at Tasmania’s violent and criminal past. At the site was here, the most hardened criminals came to stay with some of the most rebellious personalities. For this reason, Port Arthur had some of the strictest security measures and most brutal punishments. Most of which focuses on the psychological rather than the physical. To end our day, we make our way to the old convict settlement of Port Arthur.

Port Arthur Historic Site

The site at Port Arthur is one of the best-preserved Australian Convict sites and also one of the larger settlements. This site gives a fantastic look back in time at Tasmania’s violent past. At the site was here the most hardened criminals came to stay with some of the most rebellious personalities. For this reason, Port Arthur had some of the strictest security measures and brutal punishments.

Practical Information

Hours and Admission

Adult tickets cost $40 AUS, and children are $18 AUS. Your ticket into Port Arthur includes entry to the museum, a 40-minute walking tour, a harbour cruise, and access to 30 different historic buildings. The site is open seven days a week, from 10:00am – 5:00pm. They are only closed on Christmas Day.

COVID-19 Protocols: Tickets must be booked online prior to your visit. Click here for more information on their COVID-19 safety precautions.

I have a complete guided tour of Port Arthur if you’re interested in having someone lead you on your way throughout the site. This way you can learn stories all about the history of each of the buildings inside the convict site.

Rosedale Homestead

After you’re finished at the historical convict site, grab a spot of lunch at the Rosedale Homestead. The homestead is owned by an Aboriginal Tasmanian family who has created a charming animal sanctuary and tasty restaurant that focuses on local delights. Eating here really feels like you’ve been invited right into a family kitchen, and the friendly atmosphere here just can’t be missed!

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Tasmanian Devil Zoo

Before leaving this peninsula, it’s worth making an early morning stop at the Tasmanian Devil Unzoo just a minute down the road from the homestead. A “un” zoo, you say? What on earth is that? The zoo owners Jon Coe and Ray Mendez wanted to create their vision of an animal’s natural environment that the human visitors can explore, not an environment created for the human visitors that the animals must adapt to.

The Tasmanian Devil Unzoo is worth a visit for their namesake, the famous Tasmanian Devil. In here, you can see their habitats and many of the animals up close. They are such interesting animals and so much small than I thought they would be! If you have never had a chance to visit a free-range kangaroo field, where you can see these massive creatures in person, this zoo also has a large paddock where you can see kangaroos, wallabies and Australian hens.

Federation Chocolate

A minute down the road, make your last stop on the peninsula at Federation Artisan Chocolate. Federation Artisan Chocolate has been an iconic foodie establishment in Tasmania for over 30 years! Their chocolatiers have been crafting innovative and ever-evolving handmade chocolate praline and truffles for years, all made with local ingredients. Their unique flavours include hazelnut praline, wildberry and pistachio, Tasmanian peppermint crunch, espresso martini, Hellyer’s whisky and my favourite, Tasmanian lavender!

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Richmond Bridge

Continue along the A9 Highway through the Woodvine Nature Reserve. Travelling west towards Hobart, you will pass across the famous Richmond Bridge. Richmond is a beautiful little place for a pitstop just outside of Hobart. The Richmond bridge is a heritage-listed bridge built by English convicts in 1823 and, therefore, the oldest stone bridge in Australia! While the bridge is magnificent and placed in a scenic location, it is perhaps its darker past that makes it so well known. In 1832, George Grover, an employee at the nearby Richmond Gaol, was murdered on the bridge. Grover was known to be very cruel to the prisoners. Although no one was convicted of his murder, he had many well-known enemies. His ghost is thought to haunt the bridge to this day.

Richmond Village

It would be a shame not to pass through Richmond and not hop out of the car for a few minutes to walk around this historic and charming little village. Richmond has been relatively untouched by the modern changes that came to bigger cities like Hobart. It, therefore, retains its Georgian colonial architecture would have looked like once all cities around Tasmania would have looked. It feels like a living museum.

My favourite building is the old Richmond Arms Hotel with its fantastical lace wrought-iron verandah. The building was constructed in 1827 for James Buscombe, who aimed to create a pub that would serve the growing population of Richmond and all the passersby who were travelling onto Hobart. Despite passing hands and changing names over the years, the building still serves local drafts in a friendly atmosphere. Their outdoor beer garden is such a great place to sit and enjoy the warm weather and beautiful surroundings.

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Pooley Wines

Just down the road from Richmond are the vineyards for the award-winning Pooley Wines. This winery is located in the heart of Tasmania’s famous wine-producing region, the Coal River Valley. This is the steepest vineyard site in the coal river valley. The rich and fertile soils and the afternoon sea breeze and prevailing winds result in a smaller variation between day and night temperatures which aids grape production. Pooley Wines is located on a historical property which is one of the loveliest places to wander around. For only $5 per person, you can enjoy local cheeses and charcuterie along with a varied selection of wines from the estates.

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Arriving in Hobart

After finishing up at the Winery, it’s time to leave the countryside behind and head into the great city of Hobart. One of the most beautiful aspects of Hobart is the fact that there are so few high-rise buildings that creep across the city. This building limitation was put in place due to Hobart’s proximity to the River Derwent and Mount Wellington/kunanyi. This was due in part to the fact that the government didn’t want to ruin these incredible vistas with views of stark steel towers. The results in the peaceful seaside village we find today. Despite being an urban centre and having all those amenities, Hobart still feels like a secret treasure.

Franklin Wharf

Drop your things off at your hotel and head out to the docks to grab yourself some dinner! Walk along the Franklin Wharf waterfront. The historic buildings along this street are stunning, one of which is the old Marine Board. Franklin Wharf is the Hobart’s Waterfront where fishing and sailing boats dock, both now and in years past. It is also where you can find some of the best seafood restaurants and cafes at very reasonable prices! 

Heading South Sculpture

So much of Hobart is home to random sculptures and art installations that seem to pop up out of nowhere. And the docks aren’t any different. You’ll find the ‘Heading South Sculpture‘ group along the water’s edge towards Hunter street. The first sculpture you see is called ‘The Bernacchi Tribute.‘ Louise Bernacchi was a scientist, photographer, and writer, and he is seen here with his trusty husky dog Joe, holding the flag. Bernacchi was the first Australian to spend and document a winter in Antarctica. In the sculpture, we catch Bernacchi taking a picture (or selfie as we know it today) of himself as he marks his accomplishment.

Behind Bernacchi, we find the bronze sculpture of a group of seals and penguins made by Stephen Walker. This scene is meant to memorialize English explorer James Clark Ross and his role in the 19th-century Antarctic expeditions. Ross sailed from Hobart to Antarctica in 1840. Later, in 1845, Ross set out with Sir John Franklin to help lead his expedition to discover the North-West Passage. Although we both know now how that ended for both explorers.

Elizabeth Street Pier

Elizabeth Street is one of the major street that runs southeast to the northwest through the downtown and into the suburbs. But the famous street ends right here in the harbour. The Governor of New South Wales named Elizabeth Street after his wife, Elizabeth Macquarie. The original Elizabeth Street Pier was in built 1866, but this new concrete structure was built in 1933. Today, the covered pier serves as a space for restaurants, bars and event spaces.

Fish Frenzy

When I first visited Hobart, I was a young student and was eager to find somewhere to eat great seafood at low prices. No trip to Hobart is complete without some fresh seafood, and even students deserve to try it out! Lucky for me, Fish Frenzy was recommended to me over and over again as the best place for cheap and delicious seafood. It makes me so happy to see they are still wildly popular. Fish Frenzy serves amazingly fresh fish and chips with seafood caught directly from local fishermen. They also serve incredible grilled seafood, chowder, and my personal favourite, Tasmanian scallops. And the best part is you can dine outdoors along the waterfront. Sitting here enjoying your catch of the day is the best way to take in the fantastic views of Hobart’s waterfront.

Lady Nelson Tall Ship

Located right outside Fish Frenzy is the historic Lady Nelson tall ship. To be fair, this is a replica of the historic ship that people still use regularly today! It sets sail from this dock and heads out along the Derwent River. The original HMS Lady Nelson was commissioned in 1799 to survey the coast of Australia. At the time, large parts of the Australian coast were unmapped, and Britain had claimed only part of the continent. This ship would be the first to seal all of Australia for the British. The ship’s crew were also the first to establish settlements on the River Derwent, at Port Dalrymple in Tasmania.

Constitution Dock

Constitution Dock has been used to harbour fleets in Hobart since its founding in 1804. It is still used today by fisherman who docks here to sell their catch of the day. Walking around this area and the adjacent Fisherman’s Dock, you’ll find that pretty much every single building is a fantastic seafood cafe or restaurant! There is no better place to come for seafood lovers!

Mures

A Hobart institution that I loved coming back to, night after night, was Mures. Jill & George Mure established Mures Fish House in 1973! Back then, it was located in Battery Point but to ensure the fish’s freshness, they moved the location right to the source on Fisherman’s Wharf. One of the most interesting things about Mures is that they have two different areas of the restaurant; the upper and lower deck. The Lower Deck is where you’ll find the quick-service restaurant serving up their famous fried fish and seafood paired with their world-class chips. But another seemingly strange addition to the lower deck is their cafe with 32 flavours of ice cream! Despite being primarily a seafood shop, their ice cream is AMAZING! You can either eat your plunder inside in their gorgeous mural-covered interior or outside where you can watch fishing boats come in and go out to sea.

The Upper Deck is their fine dining restaurant. Here you can experience the ultimate seafood experience in Hobart. This is a great place to try fresh Tasmanian pacific oysters! You can also sample Tasmanian octopus, Bass Strait squid, Tasmania rock lobster, and local spring bay mussels. Despite being a fine dining restaurant, the prices are shockingly affordable for the incredible quality and freshness you get!

Drunken Admiral

The best place to end your day in Hobart is inside the Drunken Admiral! While this restaurant and bar might seem too touristy to be legit, don’t let the kitsch factor dissuade you. The restaurant is decorated to look like you are drinking inside a haul of a pirate ship. Ropes hang from the walls, and the ceiling even appears to be made of the ribbing of a giant ship. The are nautically themed objects all over the place, covering almost every inch of the surface. Some of them are antiques, others are new creations, but it’s almost impossible to tell which ones are which.

Their beer and wine lists are staggering, so it’s a wonderful place to come to sample locally made spirits of all sorts. But it’s the friendly environment inside this place that makes it so special and the best place to wile the night away.

Day 7 – Exploring Hobart

To end our week in Tasmania, we spend our last day touring the city of Hobart and the famous Mount Wellington/kunanyi.

Battery Point

Start your morning off right in the historic neighbourhood of Battery Point. This area is one of Hobart’s most peaceful and beautiful districts, and I love wandering the streets in the early morning. You’ll find the least tourists out and about this time of day, and the area takes on a more authentic neighbourhood feel. I adore wandering aimlessly and watching the locals mull about doing their morning tasks.

Princes Park

Start your tour of Battery Point inside the peaceful Princes Park. The name “Battery Point” was due to the fact that the first Battery was built here in 1818 as a part of Hobart’s coastal defences. Although the Battery was well stocked with guns and ammunition, the defences were never called upon to withstand an invasion. Instead, the Battery was mainly used for ceremonial salutes. The Battery was officially decommissioned in 1878 and turned into a lovely park for the residents in 1934. Princes Park is the perfect place to start the day as it is located on a lookout over the gorgeous River Derwent. Princes Park is also home to some beautiful lush trees, representative of that iconic flora and fauna that makes Tasmania so unique.

Battery Point Historic Homes

After meandering around Princes Park, take a walk along Hampden Road. This street winds up the hillside, climbing higher and higher. As you go, you’ll catch more and more views of the towering Mount Wellington/kunanyi overhead. On either side of the street, you can spot a myriad of different styles of colonial cottages. Keep an eye out for the eave-free homes. These are some of the oldest in the area and have been here since the colony’s establishment. In 1973, the Builders Labourers Federation established a “green ban” on the destruction of the historic building. This ban ensured the historic homes were preserved for future generations. The everyday Tasmanians who own these homes take great pride in keeping them prime and proper and their gardens are almost as glorious as the houses themselves.

Runnymede Street & Arthur Circus Park

For a moment, turn off Hampden Street to explore Runnymede Street, a small circle that surrounds the quaint Arthur Circus Park. The houses surrounding the park are old cottages. These homes were originally constructed for the garrison officers of the Battery. An iconic architectural element to keep your eye out for around here is the “iron lace” verandas. This style of wrought iron is a feature of many buildings in the area and in colonial Australia. In 1870 Australia established its own iron factories, influenced by the Victorian ornamental iron designs they saw in magazines from England. Australians adapted this style for themselves and having an iron lace terrace was a sign of your status in Australian society.

Jackman & McRoss

Located in the heart of the community is the popular cafe Jackman & McRoss. Jackman & McRoss feels like a quintessential Australian cafe, but with a gourmet twist. Their most popular item is the iconic Australian staple: meat pies. But unlike the mystery meat pies you get in truck stops, these pies come in flavours like; goat & lentil, blue eye fish korma, lamb & rosemary and even scallop pie, with shellfish caught right from the Tasman sea.

If sweets are your morning preference, then they have you covered as well. You’ll be drooling over the gorgeous window displays of all their sweet creations. Always go for whatever is labelled “seasonal” as these items are extra special. You can opt to grab your food to go and eat in one of the many beautiful parks around the area or sit inside and watch the locals come in and out for their morning brew.

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St. George’s Anglican Church

From the cafe, head up Waterloo Crescent, then down Colville Street and over Cromwell Street to find your way to St. George’s Anglican Church. Although this is a little bit of a roundabout way to get here, it is the best route to see some of the most amazing historic streets along the way. St. George’s Anglican Church is a Greek revival church built to serve Battery Point residents in 1838. English architect James Blackburn designed the classical tower in 1847. The tower is one of the most impressive parts of the church and a worthy addition.

Nanny Goat Lane

Nanny Goat Lane is home to one of the best spots to get an amazing view across Hobart. This steep and skinny set of steps is essential to help residents make their way from Quayle Street to St Georges Terrace. These little shortcut steps can be found all over the city. Originally, many of these access points were made by the residents themselves and not the city. But in recent years, they have become both historical and accessible assets.

St. Georges Terrace

Continue along Cromwell Street and down De Witt Street until you reach St. Georges Terrace. Standing on the corner of St. Georges Terrace and Colville Street, you have the most incredible view of the water to the left and the sprawling city, crawling over the hillside to your right.

Narryna Heritage Museum

Turn around and walk west along St. Georges Terrace and back north along Sandy Bay Road. Then turn back onto Hampden Street to visit Narryna Heritage Museum. The Narryna Heritage Museum is a delightful place to visit to explore what the interiors of a 1830’s style merchant house would have looked like. Designs and furnishings from early colonial Tasmania have been preserved here. The house and their collection help tell the story of life in Tasmania for those early settlers. The Georgian townhouse was built by the seafarer, Captain Andrew Haig. Haig also built the famous Salamanca warehouses in 1834.

Admission: 10 AUD for adults and 4 AUD for Children.
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday 10 am – 4 pm | Closed Mondays and Sundays

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Kelly Street & Steps

Walk along Hampden Street until you reach Kelly Street. Kelly Street was named after James Kelly, an explorer who circumnavigated Tasmania in 1816. And in only a 5-oared whaling boating nonetheless! Kelly went on to become a whale-oil merchant. Back then whale oil was one of the highest-selling commodities of the Hobart ports. To export the oil, he needed to employ shipwrights, sailmakers, ship chandlers, coopers to make barrels, smiths, wharf labourers, and watermen to ferry the cargo. These men needed to live close to the warehouse, so Kelly took his huge plot of land and subdivided it into smaller cottages for her workers. You can still see many of these old cottages today.

But the most important part of the street is the famous Kelly Steps. The steps were also made by Kelly in 1839. He wanted a shortcut for him and his workers to access the warehouses in Salamanca Place from their homes in Battery Point. The steps were carved into the hillside and from the top provide a stunning view out towards the piers. As the steps were carved almost 200 years ago, they weren’t quite made to code and are very steep, so those with mobility issues should traverse down to Salamanca Place via nearby Runnymede Street.

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Salamanca Place

The steps guide you right to the center of Salamanca Place. These rows of simple, sandstone buildings were once the former warehouses that served the enormous marine industry, that was the Port of Hobart. The area was previously called “Cottage Green” but renamed in 1812. It was named Salamanca after the victory in the Battle of Salamanca by the Duke of Wellington. As the whaling and shipbuilding industry dried up and the port became less and less frequented by ships, the warehouses were transformed into a trendy space for restaurants, theatres, galleries, cafes and shops.

Salamanca Market

The best time to visit Salamanca Place is on Saturdays for the Salamanca Market. Every Saturday, hundreds of vendors come here and pop up their market stalls. Locals come here for fresh produce collected from all around Tasmania. Everything from delicious baked goods, fresh fruits and veg and friendly florists selling bouquets of brightly coloured flowers. Tourists will enjoy all that as well as the crafts and gifts made by local craftspeople. But best of all is the cheery atmosphere local markets provide. The market runs from Salamanca Lawns to Salamanca Place and is open from 8:30 am to 3 pm. This is a great place to get some food for lunch and eat it picnic-style in one of the nearby parks.

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Food at Salamanca

My favourite place to grab a cup of coffee or a delicious brunch is Machine Laundry Cafe. This retro fantasy cafe is located inside the old interiors of a laundry mat. Instead of removing the old machines, they left them on display and in fact, you can still do your laundry here while enjoying your breakfast! A double load will cost you $5 AUD and the dryer costs $1 AUD for 7 minutes. If you’re travelling for a long time and need some laundry done, you cannot miss doing it here! Plus the food is incredible, the perfect hangover cure!

If you want something sweet, check out San Churro Salamanca. Since the area is named after a place in Spain, it seems fitting to find a Spanish Churro shop in the middle of the old warehouses. This place serves up pipping hot, fresh churros served with traditional cinnamon sugar and a side of melted chocolate for dipping! Honey Badger Dessert Cafe is another fantastical brunch restaurant that serves up some decadent breakfast sweets. Try the pancakes or cheesecake covered in candy floss for those of us with a real sweet tooth.

Salamanca Arts Centre

Wanders into the Salamanca Arts Centre to peruse the incredible works of art found inside. Unlike a traditional art gallery, this place is free to visit and an amazing way to explore up-and-coming local artists as well as get a sense of the vibrant art style Hobart is famous for!

I’m a HUGE used book lover, so I adored Deja Vu Books inside the arts centre. This place is a treasure trove of books that wobble from the floor to the ceiling. Aspect Design is a wonderful gift shop inside that supports local Tasmanian artists and craftspeople. Everything is made using local materials and is the best place to pick up something to remember your trip with.

St David’s Park

Continue along Salamanca Place street, passing the Supreme Court of Tasmania. Just opposite the Supreme Court, you’ll find the entrance to St David’s Park. Marking the entrance to the park are the two large lion sandstone sculptures. Their paws clutching onto the column capital. These were a gift for the Hobart bicentennial from an Australian and New Zealand Banking Group. You might spot the image of the lion all over Tasmania. This is because the Tasmania flag has a white disk with the image of a red lion in the center. Throughout the English-style park, there are lots of pretty sandstone sculptures, gorgeous pergolas, and lush Tasmanian flora and fauna.

St David’s Cemetery

While strolling through this peaceful park, many visitors are unaware that under their feet sits the grounds of an old cemetery. St David’s Cemetery was first established here in 1804. The site was thought to be perfect as it was a tranquil part of town with scenic water views. But it was also located a ways away from the residential area of Hobart Town. Many of Hobart’s founding citizens were buried here after serving in the new colony.

As the neighbourhood around the cemetery was built up, many residents became uneasy living close to the corpses. Health officials also voiced concerns about the health risks of this proximity. So, the cemetery was closed in 1872 when the Cornelian Bay cemetery was opened far north of the city centre. In 1919 the town council purchased the land from the church, and the area transformed into a lush recreational park.

There are still 900 bodies buried in the park as only some graves were moved to the new cemetery. Today, you can still see some of these old tombstones and headstones along the memorial wall. These include the remains of David Collins, the first Lieutenant Governor of Tasmania. Taking a look at these headstones, you might notice that many are from young children. Sadly, children’s life expectancy in the new Tasman colony was very low, and many children didn’t survive into adolescence.

Parliament House Gardens

Walk back out to Salamanca Street and make your way to the Parliament House Gardens. On the west side of the park stands the grand Parliament House. Look up at the flag on top of the building to see the red lion for yourself we mentioned previously. In 1825 Tasmania became an independent British colony, and its administration was separate from that of New South Wales. It was here that the first Legislative Council was formed to advise the Lieutenant Governor of Van Diemen’s Land, who had sole governance of the colony. The gardens in front of Parliament House are a peaceful place to stop to rest your feet before continuing on the rest of the tour.

Customs House

On the other side of the road stands the old Customs House. John Lee Archer was the architect who designed the Customs House in 1835. The Customs House was originally used as Tasmania’s primary Parliamentary building until the new Parliament was built in 1841. The beautiful classical revival facade has been preserved and is a great example of the styles of the time. The building is now used as a pub and hostel, so you can still go inside and take in the historic atmosphere.

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Franklin Square

Head North along Murray Street to Franklin Square. Franklin Square is one of the most impressive public squares in Hobart. The square is lined by oak trees on either side. The park was named after Arctic explorer Sir John Franklin. Sir John Franklin was also the Lieutenant-Governor of Van Diemen’s Land from 1837 to 1843.

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In the center of the square stands a large fountain with a statue of Sir John Franklin on top. On one of the stone pedestal, you can see the words, “Not here! The white north has thy bones.” This is because Franklin was obsessed with exploring the artic and perished there instead of at home in Tasmania. In 1845 he set out with two huge vessels, the HMS Terror and HMS Erebus, to explore the Northwest Passage. The ships never returned home as they became icebound. He and all his crew perished at sea, but their death was a mystery for hundreds of years. It wasn’t until 2014 that the ships were discovered, and the mystery was finally put to rest along with Franklin and his crew.

On the east side of the park sits a beautiful sculpture called “Two Islands.” The sculpture portrays a sizeable wooden boat skeleton wrapped around a smaller metal canoe. This sculpture represents the history of the Tasmanian Indigenous people being swallowed up by the European settlers. The Two Islands sculpture also incorporates a soundscape comprised of many voices providing a dialogue revolving around reconciliation for the future.

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St. David’s Cathedral

Sitting just behind Franklin Square is the domineering castellated parapet tower of St. David’s Cathedral. In 1842 Hobart was declared an official city, and the existing smaller St David’s Church became St David’s Cathedral. Construction on the current cathedral began in 1868 but wasn’t complete until 1936. St. David’s Cathedral is designed in the Gothic Revival style by the English architect George Frederick Bodley.

Walking inside, one of the first things I was struck by was the impressive stained glass windows. These windows depict saints, knights, kings and other biblical characters. Despite the rather simple exterior, the interior is replete with neo-Gothic quatrefoil tracery windows, buttressed turrets, stone columns supporting pointed arches and an incredible wooden vaulted ceiling.

Brooke Street Pier

Walk back towards the water along Brooke Street towards the Brooke Street Pier. The Brooke Street Pier is a floating pontoon made to expand the waterfront area of Sullivans Cove. Sullivans Cove, also known as Macquarie Wharf, historically served as the main port for the city of Hobart. Sullivans Cove was the place where Captain David Collins chose to establish a new colony in 1804. He christened the area “Hobart Town.” Sullivans Cove was the ideal place to set up a colony. Its proximity to the Derwent River provided access to inland transportation, and the deep, natural harbour was protected by Storm Bay. And best of all, the area has easy access from the Tasman Peninsula into the ocean.

The Glass House

Inside this beautiful glass pier building is a series of small restaurants and shops. Appropriately named ‘The Glass House‘ offers a selection of Tasmania’s finest drinks, matched with unique shared plates. You can taste the best Tasmania wines along with freshly plucked oysters, spring bay mussels, Tasmanian scallop ceviche, Stanley octopus, and a selection of vegan and vegetarian cuisines with only the best organize produce from local farmers.

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Explorer Bus

If you didn’t bring your own vehicle, you can take the Explorer Bus up to visit the soaring views on top of kunanyi/Mt Wellington. This tour bus departs directly from Hobart and takes you up to the summit. Once you arrive, you get to enjoy the panoramic views and observations shelter without doing the drive yourself! There are also a few different hop-on-hop-off options along the route. These are great if you wanted to explore any other walking trails around kunanyi/Mt Wellington. Throughout your journey on the bus, there is a commentary track from your drive. They will tell you all about the history and wildlife of the region. Your bus passes valid all day, but checks to see when the different pick-up/drop-off times and locations are.

Adult (17+ years): $35 | Child (6–16years): $25

What to Wear?

kunanyi/Mount Wellington rises 1,271 metres (4,170 ft) above sea level. The temperature up here is frequently so cold that the summit is covered in a thin blanket of snow, even in the summer! So be sure to bring a bunch of extra layers to ensure you’re not too cold up here. I thought I had dressed warmly enough but was shocked by the strong winds up here. The wind chill drops the temperature even further! So bring more than you think you’ll need. A puffer jacket is an excellent option since it is so light to carry around in your bag after the tour. A scarf, hat and gloves are also a necessity!

Landscape and Wildlife

As you climb the mountain, look out your window at the incredible landscape. The initial climb is full of lush Eucalypti forests. On either side, you’ll see tiny bursts of water flowing out from the rocks. These ravines, creeks and hidden waterfalls flood the mountain range. The freshwater creates colossal tree ferns that flourish in the moist ground.

The animals that live in these mountains are so diverse! I hadn’t even heard of some of the creatures that live up here. Everything from potoroos, pademelons, quolls, bettongs, and bandicoots! There are also the common possum, bats, echidnas, the elusive platypus, small frogs, reptiles, and of course the alpine lizards. There are also 67 different bird species living in these forests including peregrine falcons, wedge-tailed eagles, swift parrots and grey goshawks.

Wellington Pinnacle

When you finally reach the summit, the landscape changes from lush green ferns into flat sandstone cliffs. The sub-alpine flora and glacial rock formations you find on the summit are so unique. It feels like walking on the moon. You might have noticed that anytime I write Mount Wellington I pair it with the word kunanyi. Kunanyi is the proper Palawa name for the mountain. The indigenous Tasmanian people have called it such for thousands of years before the British colonizers’ arrival. In 2014, the mountain’s name was officially changed to kunanyi/Mt Wellington. This was done as part of the Tasmanian Government’s Aboriginal and Dual Naming Policy.

Standing at the top of the summit, you can see the entirety of Hobart, the River Derwent and even the surrounding hillsides spread out across you like a painting. The most iconic aspect of the summit is the igneous rock spread out over the landscape. These were formed by layers of rocks pushing upwards by upsurges of molten rock as the Australian continental shelf violently tore away from the Antarctic. It’s incredible to think how old these rock formations are. This separation from Antarctica happened over 40 million years ago!

Charles Darwin Visits the Mountain

Charles Darwin visited Hobart Town in 1836. He made an effort to climb the mountains and described his journey to the summit.

“The summit of the mountain is broad and flat, and is composed of huge angular masses of naked greenstone… The day was splendidly clear, and we enjoyed a most extensive view; to the north, the country appeared a mass of wooded mountains, of about the same height with that on which we were standing, and with an equally tame outline: to the south the broken land and water, forming many intricate bays, was mapped with clearness before us. …”

Pinnacle Observation Shelter and Boardwalk

Once you get out of your car or bus at the summit, you can walk along the boardwalk toward the Observation Shelter. The short section of the pathways leading into the Observation Shelter has been made to be wheelchair accessible. Inside the Observation Shelter is a great place to look out at the fantastic views but be protected from the harsh weather as the room is encased in glass.

The boardwalk continues one along the cliff edge. A set of stairs leads you towards a view platform that puts you out on the absolute edge of the mountain to get the best views. Continue walking along the boardwalk as the more you explore, the more of the unique landscape you’ll discover!

Cascade Brewery

Heading back down the mountain, make your way to the South Hobart neighbourhood. Nestled in these suburbs are a few historical treasures of Hobart’s past. If you are taking the Explorer Bus, you can ask to get off at the Fern Tree Park Stop. From there board the 448 Bus at Fern Tree station towards stop 20, Huon Rd near Hillborough Road. Then it’s a 20-minute walk to the Brewery. Although it sounds like a trek, we loved the winding, scenic walk leading up to the great Brewery!

Walking up Cascade Brewery, the enormous building feels a little ominous. It feels almost out of place, as such tall buildings are scarce to find in Hobart. On the grey, misty morning when we arrived the building looked absolutely haunting! The misty shadow of kunanyi/Mt Wellington silhouetted behind the sandstone facade. But once you get inside, you’ll find a charming brewery serving up some fantastic local beers and ciders. Although you’ll discover that its tumultuous history gives reason for the rather spooky atmosphere here.

History of Cascade Brewery

The history of Cascade Brewery is marred with deception and hints at its convict past. The Cascade Brewery first opened in 1824 and remains the oldest continually operating brewery in Australia. Originally the estates here consisted of large sawmills producing the much-needed timber used in the Hobart shipyards. Shipbuilding was one of Hobart’s largest and most lucrative industries, so the demand for timber was very high. Hobart was an optimal location for shipbuilding as the blue gum trees around the city made for some of the best ship lumber.

Peter Degraves and Hugh Macintosh

The Cascade Brewery was the brainchild of Peter Degraves and Hugh Macintosh. Until 2011 this was not the commonly accepted truth. It was previously thought that the brewery was founded only by Peter Degraves. Degraves was a cheat and a debtor so it’s no surprise he managed to fool everyone for years that he was the sole creator. Peter came to the shores of Hobart with his brother-in-law Hugh Macintosh in 1824. Degraves had decided to come to Hobart only to escape his charges of thievery in England. But you can’t run from your past forever.

When they arrived, Macintosh wasn’t so keen on the idea of a brewery. But Degraves convinced him to fund it anyway. In 1826, Degraves was arrested for the debts he had in England. He was sentenced to prison for five years in Hobart. Once Degraves was in jail, the kindly Macintosh opted to pay off all Degraves’ outstanding debts. Macintosh abandoned the operation of the brewery and focused his attention on the lucrative sawmills he ran with his nephews.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Tatiana Yenko (@tatianayenko)

Once Degraves was let out of prison, Macintosh (for whatever reason) agreed to allow him back into the partnership. Degraves immediately went about expanding the brewery. When Macintosh died in 1834, Degraves offered to buy out the other half of the estate. Macintosh’s sons, who inherited the property, lived far away in India and had no interest in the estate. The sons agreed and transferred the deed to Degraves but, as was the pattern with Degraves, he never paid them. In fact, Degraves went onto falsify the brewery’s history after Macintosh’s death and made it appear as if he was the sole owner.

The Gold Rush & Today

Despite his trickery, both the mill and the brewery began to experience a boom of growth, and the money came rolling in. The gold rush in Victoria demanded the import of both timber and beer for the miners. And lucky for Degraves, he could supply both! Eventually, Degraves died and the brewery passed hands a few times. Eventually, the brewery was purchased by Australian subsidiary Carlton & United Breweries, who still own the brewery today. Sadly, a massive bushfire in 1967 destroyed many buildings around South Hobart, the brewery included. Thanks to immense restoration efforts, the entirety of the brewery was rebuilt stone by stone and looks like a replica of the original.

Tasmania Tiger

The original icon of the Cascade Brewing Company is the now extinct Tasmania Tiger or thylacine. The thylacine was the largest carnivorous marsupial native to Tasmania. They called it the Tasmania Tiger as a nickname was the stripes on its lower back resembled that of a tiger. Like the kangaroo, the thylacine also carried its young inside its abdominal pouch. The animal was timid and only about the size of a large dog. Sadly, intensive hunting, shockingly encouraged by state bounties on the animal, contributed to its eventual extinction. New diseases were brought to the country by the English settlers. Their encroachment on the land also led to the thylacine’s disappearance. The last Tasmania tiger died in captivity in 1930. The Tasmanian devil is its closest living relative.

Cascade Brewery Bar

The Cascade Brewery Bar is also a great place to grab a bite to eat and settle in for the evening. Their menu is full of incredible Tasmanian delights. Their taste of ‘Tassie platter’ is a fantastic way to try a bunch of different local items at once. It consists of smoked wallaby, pale ale glazed ham, salmon rillettes, apple relish, pickled vegetables and lavosh bread. And of course, you must try a variety of their different brews. Their tasting paddle comes with four 5oz Cascade beers, a lager, pale ale, first harvest, and a stout. Or if beers aren’t for you, you can try four ciders instead. I adore Australian cider, and Cascade makes ones infused with crushed passionfruit, raspberries, and traditional apples.

After a night drinking in the shadow of Mount Wellington/kunanyi, it’s time to head home. This brings us to the end of our beautiful journey across Tasmania. I hope you enjoy all the different facets that this wonderful island has to offer. I truly think Tasmania is one of the most spectacular places in the world and CANNOT be missed if you are making the journey all the way over to Australia. Let me know in the comment any questions you might have about Tasmania.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Discover the Best of Tasmania in One Week: Your Ultimate Itinerary Guide first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Map of Alternative Walking Tour of Hobart
2. History
3. Access
4. Lost Freight Cafe
5. Springs Lookout
6. Landscape and Wildlife
7. Rocky Whelans Cave
8. Wellington Pinnacle
9. Pinnacle Observation Shelter and Boardwalk
10. Chalet Walk & Organ Pipes
11. Cascade Brewery
12. Cascade Brewery Tours
13. Cascades Female Factory Historic Site
14. Children at the Female Factory
15. Hobart Convict Penitentiary
16. University Rose Gardens
17. Cenotaph
18. Government House
19. Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens
20. Tasman Bridge
21. Bellerive
22. Hooked on Bellerive

Map of Alternative Walking Tour of Hobart

History

For over 35,000 years, the semi-nomadic Mouheneener tribe, a sub-group of the Nuenonne people, lived in Hobart. These indigenous people made good use of the astonishing natural resources the River Derwent provided. And the protected access to the Tasman sea also meant their fishing boats were kept safe but could be sent out to bring in fresh food. This indigenous group were the descendants of the Tasmanians we now refer to as the ‘Palawa‘ people.

Hobart was founded as a British colony in 1804, making it the second oldest capital city in Australia after Sydney. Hobart was settled as a penal colony, bringing the most hardened criminals from the shores of England and Ireland to the newly built prisons. Back then, Tasmania was dubbed the ominous ‘Van Diemen’s Land.’ The colony settled here was first named “Hobart Town.” It was named after Robert Hobart, 4th Earl of Buckinghamshire. Lord Hobart was the Secretary of the Colonies when Hobart was settled.

Hobart grew over the years as the freed convicts made their permanent home here. Despite their criminal past, people found these free men were hard and honest workers looking to simply restart their life here in Australia. When the penal colonies closed in 1850, whaling and shipbuilding became the prominent industry in Hobart. Due to Hobart’s proximity to the Southern Ocean, the fisherman quickly found and captured whales for the commercial market. Today, after the decline in whaling, Hobart finds itself serving as the port for Australian and French Antarctic operations and, of course, as a tourist destination for many Australians and international visitors alike.

Access

Our first and most important stop of the day is up kunanyi/Mount Wellington. Access to kunanyi/Mount Wellington is free, no park pass is required. The summit and observation shelter are open from 7 am to 10 pm (although it closes earlier in the winter months). You can take your own car up the winding Pinnacle Road.

Driving Advice & Instructions

The drive from downtown Hobart takes about 30 minutes. But take your time as the road bends and weaves around the mountain can be a bit treacherous to newbies. The Tasmanian government has an entire site dedicated to helping international drivers learn the road rules. But in terms of driving up the mountain, the key points are:

• only pull over to take photos where it is safe to do so
• always drive on the left side of the road
• slow down on winding or icy roads
• lookout for animals
• wear a seatbelt at all times
• never use a mobile phone while driving.

For specific driving directions, check here.

The road to the summit was constructed in the early 1930s. The name “Pinnacle Drive” is a more modern naming convention as it was first called ‘Ogilvie’s Scar.’ Albert Ogilvie was the premier of Tasmania during the 1930s. The newly created road up the mountain seemed to carve a scar into the hillside, as the forests were so heavily logged, leaving the woods almost bare.

Explorer Bus

If you didn’t bring your own vehicle, you could take the kunanyi/Mt Wellington Explorer Bus. This tour departs from Hobart and takes you to the summit. Once you arrive, you get to enjoy the panoramic views and observations shelter without doing the drive yourself! There are also a few different hop-on-hop-off options along the route. These are great if you wanted to explore any other walking trails around kunanyi/Mt Wellington. Throughout your journey on the bus, there is a commentary track from your drive. They will tell you all about the history and wildlife of the region. Your bus passes valid all day, but checks to see when the different pick-up/drop-off times and locations are.

Adult (17+ years): $35 | Child (6–16years): $25

What to Wear?

kunanyi/Mount Wellington rises 1,271 metres (4,170 ft) above sea level. The temperature up here is frequently so cold that the summit is covered in a thin blanket of snow, even in the summer! So be sure to bring a bunch of extra layers to ensure you’re not too cold up here. I thought I had dressed warmly enough but was shocked by the strong winds up here. The wind chill drops the temperature even further! So bring more than you think you’ll need. A puffer jacket is an excellent option since it is so light to carry around in your bag after the tour. A scarf, hat and gloves are also a necessity!

Lost Freight Cafe

If you are driving yourself, you MUST make a stop at the Lost Freight cafe. Even if you are taking the Explorer Bus you can get off at the ‘Springs’ stop. The cafe is located on the road to kunanyi/Mount Wellington. It provides a scenic place to grab a quick coffee and pastry before heading off into the brisk weather of the summit! This is the best way to keep warm while exploring the mountain. Plus, it’s just the cutest place to make a stop with some of the friendly staff!

Springs Lookout

While your stopping for that coffee, you might as well take a short walk over to the Springs Lookout. Thru the trees along the winding road, it’s hard to see the beautiful views. But from this little lookout point, you get a fantastic view across the hillside.

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Landscape and Wildlife

As you climb the mountain, look out your window at the incredible landscape. The initial climb is full of lush Eucalypti forests. On either side, you’ll see tiny bursts of water flowing out from the rocks. These ravines, creeks and hidden waterfalls flood the mountain range. The freshwater creates colossal tree ferns that flourish in the moist ground.

The animals that live in these mountains are so diverse! I hadn’t even heard of some of the creatures that live up here. Everything from potoroos, pademelons, quolls, bettongs, and bandicoots! There are also the common possum, bats, echidnas, the elusive platypus, small frogs, reptiles, and of course the alpine lizards. There are also 67 different bird species living in these forests including peregrine falcons, wedge-tailed eagles, swift parrots and grey goshawks.

Rocky Whelans Cave

One of the most interesting stories of the mountain is of a dangerous bushranger named John ‘Rocky’ Whelan. Whelan is actually my maiden, and my brother is named John Whelan, so it was a shock to read about this Whelan’s gruesome story! John Whelan was an Englishman who had been convicted of a crime and sentenced to seven years in Tasmania’s penal system. But upon arriving, he escaped custody and went on to become a prolific highway robber. Eventually, he was caught once more and, this time, sentenced to eighteen years on Norfolk Island in New Zealand. After that prison closed and he was being moved to Port Arthur, he escaped once more! He made his way into the rugged bushland of kunanyi/Mt Wellington, where he hid in a cave, now named ‘Rocky Whelan’s Cave.’ But it wasn’t just hiding that Rocky was doing in this cave…

One day when visiting a shoemaker in Hobart, the shoemaker noticed a name on the bottom of the shoes. The words “Dunn” were embossed on the bottom of the shoes, the name of a man who had recently gone missing, suspected dead. The shoemaker managed to get a hold of the authorities who arrested Rocky when he came to collect the shoes. When Rocky was arrested, they found he was wearing all the clothes of the murdered Mr. Dunn. He confessed to the killing, and the police found the decomposing body of Dunn inside the cave. Rocky went on to confess to the murders of five people. The cave is located just a short walk from the Springs Lookout.

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Wellington Pinnacle

When you finally reach the summit, the landscape changes from lush green ferns into flat sandstone cliffs. The sub-alpine flora and glacial rock formations you find on the summit are so unique. It feels like walking on the moon. You might have noticed that anytime I write Mount Wellington I pair it with the word kunanyi. Kunanyi is the proper Palawa name for the mountain. The indigenous Tasmanian people have called it such for thousands of years before the British colonizers’ arrival. In 2014, the mountain’s name was officially changed to kunanyi/Mt Wellington. This was done as part of the Tasmanian Government’s Aboriginal and Dual Naming Policy.

Standing at the top of the summit, you can see the entirety of Hobart, the River Derwent and even the surrounding hillsides spread out across you like a painting. The most iconic aspect of the summit is the igneous rock spread out over the landscape. These were formed by layers of rocks pushing upwards by upsurges of molten rock as the Australian continental shelf violently tore away from the Antarctic. It’s incredible to think how old these rock formations are. This separation from Antarctica happened over 40 million years ago!

Charles Darwin Visits the Mountain

Charles Darwin visited Hobart Town in 1836. He made an effort to climb the mountains and described his journey to the summit.

“The summit of the mountain is broad and flat, and is composed of huge angular masses of naked greenstone… The day was splendidly clear, and we enjoyed a most extensive view; to the north, the country appeared a mass of wooded mountains, of about the same height with that on which we were standing, and with an equally tame outline: to the south the broken land and water, forming many intricate bays, was mapped with clearness before us. …”

Pinnacle Observation Shelter and Boardwalk

Once you get out of your car or bus at the summit, you can walk along the boardwalk toward the Observation Shelter. The short section of the pathways leading into the Observation Shelter has been made to be wheelchair accessible. Inside the Observation Shelter is a great place to look out at the fantastic views but be protected from the harsh weather as the room is encased in glass.

The boardwalk continues one along the cliff edge. A set of stairs leads you towards a view platform that puts you out on the absolute edge of the mountain to get the best views. Continue walking along the boardwalk as the more you explore, the more of the unique landscape you’ll discover!

Chalet Walk & Organ Pipes

If you are keen to take a short hike, I recommend the Chalet Walk. The Chalet Walk is a 2 km return trip, so it’s easy for almost anyone to do. This walk takes you along the Organ Pipe track, which is usually a 3-hour return journey. But if you start the walk at the Chalet, you can enjoy a small section of the Organ Pipes walk without trekking the entire section. This little exploration takes you to see the spectacular dolerite columns found there. These dolerite columns, called the Organ Pipes cliffs, are some of the most dramatic natural sculptures in all of Tasmania. They were created from molten magma 175 million years ago. Their soaring structure is made of Doleratie, which are crystals formed when the magma cools down quickly rather than slowly over time.

Simply walk as far as you’d like and turn around when you feel like you’re ready to return to the Chalet. The hop-on-hop-off bus makes stops here so you’ll able to make your way over even without your own car. The chalet is also a great place to sit and enjoy the views with a breakfast picnic!

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Cascade Brewery

Heading back down the mountain, make your way to the South Hobart neighbourhood. Nestled in these suburbs are a few historical treasures of Hobart’s past. If you are taking the Explorer Bus, you can ask to get off at the Fern Tree Park Stop. From there board the 448 Bus at Fern Tree station towards stop 20, Huon Rd near Hillborough Road. Then it’s a 20-minute walk to the Brewery. Although it sounds like a trek, we loved the winding, scenic walk leading up to the great Brewery!

Walking up Cascade Brewery, the enormous building feels a little ominous. It feels almost out of place, as such tall buildings are scarce to find in Hobart. On the grey, misty morning when we arrived the building looked absolutely haunting! The misty shadow of kunanyi/Mt Wellington silhouetted behind the sandstone facade. But once you get inside, you’ll find a charming brewery serving up some fantastic local beers and ciders. Although you’ll discover that its tumultuous history gives reason for the rather spooky atmosphere here.

History of Cascade Brewery

The history of Cascade Brewery is marred with deception and hints at its convict past. The Cascade Brewery first opened in 1824 and remains the oldest continually operating brewery in Australia. Originally the estates here consisted of large sawmills producing the much-needed timber used in the Hobart shipyards. Shipbuilding was one of Hobart’s largest and most lucrative industries, so the demand for timber was very high. Hobart was an optimal location for shipbuilding as the blue gum trees around the city made for some of the best ship lumber.

Peter Degraves and Hugh Macintosh

The Cascade Brewery was the brainchild of Peter Degraves and Hugh Macintosh. Until 2011 this was not the commonly accepted truth. It was previously thought that the brewery was founded only by Peter Degraves. Degraves was a cheat and a debtor so it’s no surprise he managed to fool everyone for years that he was the sole creator. Peter came to the shores of Hobart with his brother-in-law Hugh Macintosh in 1824. Degraves had decided to come to Hobart only to escape his charges of thievery in England. But you can’t run from your past forever.

When they arrived, Macintosh wasn’t so keen on the idea of a brewery. But Degraves convinced him to fund it anyway. In 1826, Degraves was arrested for the debts he had in England. He was sentenced to prison for five years in Hobart. Once Degraves was in jail, the kindly Macintosh opted to pay off all Degraves’ outstanding debts. Macintosh abandoned the operation of the brewery and focused his attention on the lucrative sawmills he ran with his nephews.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Tatiana Yenko (@tatianayenko)

Once Degraves was let out of prison, Macintosh (for whatever reason) agreed to allow him back into the partnership. Degraves immediately went about expanding the brewery. When Macintosh died in 1834, Degraves offered to buy out the other half of the estate. Macintosh’s sons, who inherited the property, lived far away in India and had no interest in the estate. The sons agreed and transferred the deed to Degraves but, as was the pattern with Degraves, he never paid them. In fact, Degraves went onto falsify the brewery’s history after Macintosh’s death and made it appear as if he was the sole owner.

The Gold Rush & Today

Despite his trickery, both the mill and the brewery began to experience a boom of growth, and the money came rolling in. The gold rush in Victoria demanded the import of both timber and beer for the miners. And lucky for Degraves, he could supply both! Eventually, Degraves died and the brewery passed hands a few times. Eventually, the brewery was purchased by Australian subsidiary Carlton & United Breweries, who still own the brewery today. Sadly, a massive bushfire in 1967 destroyed many buildings around South Hobart, the brewery included. Thanks to immense restoration efforts, the entirety of the brewery was rebuilt stone by stone and looks like a replica of the original.

Tasmania Tiger

The original icon of the Cascade Brewing Company is the now extinct Tasmania Tiger or thylacine. The thylacine was the largest carnivorous marsupial native to Tasmania. They called it the Tasmania Tiger as a nickname was the stripes on its lower back resembled that of a tiger. Like the kangaroo, the thylacine also carried its young inside its abdominal pouch. The animal was timid and only about the size of a large dog. Sadly, intensive hunting, shockingly encouraged by state bounties on the animal, contributed to its eventual extinction. New diseases were brought to the country by the English settlers. Their encroachment on the land also led to the thylacine’s disappearance. The last Tasmania tiger died in captivity in 1930. The Tasmanian devil is its closest living relative.

Cascade Brewery Tours

Cascade Brewery is famous for its beers inspired by the incredible fruits from Tasmania. The best place to learn more about the brewery and sample some of their beers is to take one of their tours. They have two options, the historical tour and the brewery tour. The historical tour is 45 minutes long and allows visitors who want to hear stories about their humble beginnings through to their current history. If you choose to add a tasting to the tour, you will be able to head into the bar to sample various Cascade’s beers and ciders. The tour without the tasting costs $22 AUD, and the Tour + Tasting costs $32 AUD. This tour runs Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays.

The brewery tour is an hour and 15 minutes long and studies the art of creating the nation’s oldest beer recipes. You’ll get to explore previously unseen areas of the brewery and finish off with a tasting paddle of four of Cascade’s beers or ciders. The brewery tour costs $30 AUD and only runs on Saturdays and Sundays. Be sure to book in advance as these spots book up fast. If you can’t attend one of the tours, you can always grab the sampler platter inside the bar and read this post to your group so they can learn all about the history.

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Cascade Brewery Bar

The Cascade Brewery Bar is also a great place to grab a bite to eat while sampling their brews. Their menu is full of incredible Tasmanian delights. Their taste of ‘Tassie platter’ is a fantastic way to try a bunch of different local items at once. It consists of smoked wallaby, pale ale glazed ham, salmon rillettes, apple relish, pickled vegetables and lavosh bread.

Cascades Female Factory Historic Site

Down the aptly named “Cascade Road,” make your way over to the Cascades Female Factory Historic Site. The walk from the brewery to the site is only 10 minutes and a 5-minute drive. Although most of the prisons in Australia were meant for male offenders, a large percentage of female convicts were also sent to Van Diemen’s Land. Throughout the penal colonies’ history in Australia, 25,000 convict women were sent to Australia to serve their time. It is said that anywhere between 1 in 5 and 1 in 7 Australians are related to the women who came thru these prisons! They were the true mothers of modern Australia.

Female Factories in Australia

The women sent to so-called “Female Factories” were seen as corrupt. They needed to be removed from society. Only after they reformed could they return to become functional members of the community. They were therefore sent to these workhouses masquerading as prisons. Here, it was thought the women would become reform criminals if they were put to work. The hope was also that the work they produced would make the institutions profitable, although this was rarely the case. The Cascade Female Factory was open from 1828 to 1856. Unlike many of the male prisons that remain today, many of these females factories were destroyed. The Cascade Female factory is the only remaining one, making it a spot of colossal significance.

History of the Cascade Female Factory

Inside the cold, stone walls of the Cascade Female Factory, the women would be forced to take part in a multitude of tasks. Everything from spinning wool, sewing clothing, cleaning dirty laundry, cooking and working in the nearby hospital. The different tasks were assigned to each prisoner based on their “class.” Classes were determined by the severity of their crimes. The well-behaved, low-level “1st Class” criminals were given the preferable tasks. These first-class women even got to act as overseers to the other prisoners. Those in the second and third classes were given the tough, physically demanding jobs. Women were made to labour 12 hours a day, even in the winter. During these freezing cold months, the women had to work in the dark of the night, under the imposing shadow of kunanyi/Mount Wellington.

Conditions inside this prison were dire. More than 1000 people lived inside these walls at one time. The location of the prison was built upon damp swampland. The icy winds from the mountain would batter the women working in the open-air yards. The grounds where the women were working were muddy, cold and filthy. All of this resulted in the perfect conditions for bacteria to grow and spread. Add to this overcrowding and inadequate sanitization, and you are left with a cesspool of disease and suffering. Once diseases got out, many women and children died from the outbreaks.

Tour of the Female Factory

Three of the five original work yards still remain and you can walk through them on your tour of the factory. Their crumbling walls have been replaced with piles of old bricks, shaped with wiring into the original layout of the factory. One of the remaining historic buildings on the grounds is the Matron’s Quarters in Yard 4. Inside this building that still stands, you can see what life was like for the factory administrators. Inside, you can see the matron’s 19th-century parlour, bedroom and kitchen. It is the only remaining building from the convict era that stands in the Female Factory today. There would have also been a similarly designed building on the opposite side of the property but it has since been lost to bushfires.

Children at the Female Factory

Many of the women who were imprisoned here fell pregnant and even gave birth to their children while in prison. Others were transported to the jail from England with their small children in tow. Their fathers had either given them up or passed away themselves. Life in the prison was challenging for the women but almost unsurvivable for small children. The high infant mortality rate for children was drawing public attention, and so Yard 4 was converted into a nursery. The building could house 88 women and over 150 children. Walking around this space is haunting and its almost impossible to imagine how so many people could have been forced into this small space.

The nursey allowed convict mothers to wean their babies on site. But once they were three years of age the children were removed from their mothers and sent to Queen’s Orphan School. Visitors to the prison in the 19th-century described life in the nursery as a genuinely horrible place. Babies were crammed 4 to a crib, and baskets of straw were laid on the ground to be used as beds for the other children. Inside the historic site, you can still see bronze sculptures of the cribs lying outside in the yard. These stand as a haunting memory and commemorate the lives of all those lost children.

Hours: Open seven days a week from 9:30am – 4:00pm
Admission: $8 AUD for entry | $18 for the Heritage Guided Tour and Entry

Hobart Convict Penitentiary

Continuing on the convict route in Hobart, let’s head over to the old Hobart Convict Penitentiary. If you’re travelling without a car, take bus #446 from Stop 13 on Cascade Rd to Macquarie St outside St David’s Cathedral. From there it’s a 13-minute walk from Macquarie Street to Campbell Street.

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The Old Barracks

The place where you find the historic Hobart Convict Penitentiary was originally the Hobart Prisoners’ Barracks, or as they called it ‘The Tench.’ This place was the first stop for prisoners coming from Britain who had yet to be assigned to a specific prison; such as Port Arthur. From here, men and women would be sent off to a variety of different convict sites across Tasmania. The barrack was initially built to house 640 convicts, but almost immediately, this was found to be too small. Therefore, the barracks were expanded to eventually hold up to 1,200 convicts.

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The barracks were constructed over a two-acres long block and enclosed in high, sandstone walls. The tops of the walls were encrusted with broken glass to ensure prisoners couldn’t easily climb out. Over 50,000 prisoners would come to stay in the barracks over the years during its operations. Today, not much remains of the first barracks. Only a few sandstone walls that once enclosed the barracks on the Campbell Street side are still visible.

Penitentiary Chapel

In 1831 a chapel was built for the prisoners. Part of a convict’s reformation was that they had to go to church. Therefore, architect John Lee Arthur was hired to build a church. What Lee ended up creating was thought to be one of his best works. He designed the building in the Georgian Renaissance style. John Lee Archer drew the layout of the building into a cruciform design, in the shape of the Christian cross. The church’s crowning glory was the glorious clock tower, which remains one of the most iconic sights along Campbell Street.

The church was designed to hold both prisoners and regular citizens of Hobart. The regular citizens would enter through a separate entrance, to ensure they were kept away from the prisoners. Also to ensure separations, the seating was designed on an incline. This allowed everyday citizens to attend church without the convicts’ eyes staring across at them as they attempted to pray. The prisoners were made to sit on hard, wood benches, whereas the citizens had large, spacious pews.

Solitary Confinement Cells

But some of the prisoners in the barracks were deemed too dangerous to be kept with the rest of the convict population. A need for solitary confinement cells arose, but there was no more space to construct a new building on the grounds. So John Lee Archer went about renovating the area underneath the chapel to accommodate 36 solitary confinement cells. The brick cells were designed to decrease in height to support the inclined floors of the chapel above. Because the chapel was both a place of worship and a place of punishment, this meant that the church would never be consecrated.

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As soundproofing wasn’t a consideration at the time, people in the church often complained they could hear the sounds of screaming convicts during their church services. A horrific thing to imagine hearing while trying to pray in peace. In 1847 some of the smallest cells called the “dust holes”, were sealed up as they were deemed to be inhumane. These cells were so small the convicts had to crawl inside. There was no light, and the poor ventilation would have made it almost impossible to breathe.

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Hobart Old Gaol

In 1860, when no more convicts were being brought to the shores of Tasmania, the building was converted into the Hobart Old Gaol (Jail) and Supreme court. Two of the old chapel wings were converted into courtrooms used for criminal trials. The remaining two wings were kept as a working chapel. Tunnels underground connected the courtroom to the docks so prisoners could be kept out of view of the public when being brought to trial. During its conversion into a Gaol, an execution yard was installed. Here, 32 people would lose their lives. In fact, the last person to be hanged here in Tasmania was killed in 1946!

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Tours of the Old Penitentiary

The building is open to the public on Saturday and Sunday from 10am – 3pm through the Pandemonium Experience. This guided tour and multi-sensory film experience immerses you in the chaos of convict life in Van Diemen’s Land. You will hear the stories, feel the emotions, and walk the footsteps of the wretched souls who passed through this penitentiary.

Admission: $10 adults and $5 children aged 7 -16 (although the stories are rather gruesome, you might want to think about bringing any children who are too young). The guided tour lasts 40 minutes.

You can also take a Hobart Convict Penitentiary Ghost Tour after dark! These night tours take you through the historic site and detail haunting stories from the prisoners and citizens who remember life in the Hobart Penetiantary. And if you’re fortunate (or unfortunate depending on how you look at it), you might even spot one of the spirits that are said to haunt this building. If you don’t have the opportunity to go on a guided ghost tour, then please check out our self-guided ghost tour of Hobart, where you can learn all about the various haunting tales that make up the spiritual history of Hobart.

Admission: $30 for a 90-minute tour. The tours generally run Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Be sure to reserve a spot in advance as they book up quickly!

University Rose Gardens

Let’s switch gears for a moment and enter into the beauty of the University Rose Gardens. These fantastical formal floral gardens contain hundreds of different rose bushes, stone sculptures and peaceful places to reset. When they are in bloom, the smell is almost overwhelming.

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Cenotaph

Continue east, towards the great Tasmanian Cenotaph. There is a pedestrian walking path that runs parallel to Liverpool street that you can use to access the Cenotaph. The Cenotaph is a 75-foot tall granite obelisk. It was made to pay tribute to the Tasmanian soldiers who died during World War One. With spectacular views of the Derwent River, the gorgeous open-air park was chosen as it was once the site of the Queen’s Battery from 1838 until 1923. The image of kunanyi/Mount Wellington aptly looks down over the landscape in a splendid dramatic fashion.

Soldier’s Memorial Avenue

On either side of the pathway towards the Cenotaph, named Soldier’s Memorial Avenue, are rows of great cedar trees. Three varieties of cedars were planted here; the Himalayan cedar, the Atlas cedar and the Blue Atlas. Cedar trees are symbolic of strength as they can endure any type of weather conditions. They are also known for their longevity—a perfect symbolic choice for memorizing these great soldiers.

Along the avenue are 480 bronze plaques placed near the trees. The plaques carry details about the soldiers from their name, unit, place and date of death, occupation and a range of other information about their family, military career and civilian life. It really gives you a peek into the kind of people these lost soldiers were.

The Cenotaph Obelisk

The design of the huge Cenotaph obelisk was meant to reinterpret the look of a traditional Egyptian obelisk. But as it was made in the 20th-century they wanted to add an art deco spin, as was the syle of the times. The obelisk stands 75 feet (23 meters) high and is made of stoic grey granite. The pyramidal cap of the cenotaphs is decorated with red opaque glass which is illuminated during the evening to glow red. The effect is a beautiful, yet haunting image in the sky. The inscription at the bottom of the structure reads “Lest We Forget 1914–1919″. On each side of the obelisk are four crests representing the; Royal Australian Air Force, Royal Australian Navy, Australian Commonwealth Military Forces and the Royal Australian Army Nursing Corps.

Government House

Five minutes up the road by car, or a 20-minute walk, head over to the Government House Tasmania. To access this area on foot, be sure to use the pedestrian crossings along the Tasman Highway whose entrance can be found near the highway underpass at the Cenotaph. Sitting here, looking out at the water, is what appears to be a giant castle! But in actual fact, this 19th-century building, called the Government House, was the residence of Governor Sir Henry Fox Young.

The house was built by architect William Porden Kay in Neo-Gothic style. Kay aimed to make the building resemble the design of a castle but in minature. Although minimal in size, the bas relief sculptures on the facade are wonderfully playful, featuring window mullions, gargoyles, carved chimney pots and lovely window traceries.

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The beautiful sandstone facade was made from stone quarried from this very site. The holes where they dug are now used as ornamental ponds. Because the structure has almost entirely been saved from destruction or modern renovations, it remains one of the best Vice-Regla residences in the commonwealth.

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Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens

Just opposite the Governor’s House, pay a visit to the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens. This natural wonderland is a great place to learn more about the incredible flora and fauna unique to Tasmania. The garden was opened in 1818, making it the second oldest Botanical Gardens in Australia!

Tasmanian Ferns and Flora

Once inside, your first stop should be at the Tasmanian Section and Fern House to the north of the entrance. Some of the most important Tasmanian plants include the Huon Pine, Deciduous Beech and the Eucalyptus Regnans. The fern house is absolutely spectacular, with aromatic towering ferns swaying overhead.

Further north, you will find your way to the Subantarctic Plant House. Due to the cooler climate that Tasmania receives, this garden contains Australia’s only Subantarctic Plant House. This plant house aim is to ensure the conservation of all the precious Tasmanian plants, including the unusual King’s Lomatia shrub.

Herb & Community Garden

For some aromatherapy treatment, walk over to the luscious herb garden, filled with everything a chef would need to infuse their food with fresh bursts of flavour. Near the herb garden, you’ll find the historical “Arthur’s Wall.” In 1829, newly installed Governor George Arthur wanted to install a heated wall to protect his imported plants from frosty winter weather.

These heated walls were all the rage in English Gardens. There were made with bricks and had an internal hollow channel built inside. The heat and hot air from coal-fired furnaces would travel along the stone surfaces, protecting the plants and keeping them warm. But unknown to Arthur until his first winter in Tasmania, the weather never dropped cold enough to implement the use of the walls. England saw much colder temperatures than here in Tasmnia, a fact Arthur would only discover after he had had the walls built at great expense. The walls were only used once or twice before being put out of use. Still, the technology is fascinating to study as it still stands today!

One of the best things the Botanical Gardens does for the community was to open their spare beds to be used as a community garden. This is where those in need can grow their own food with the help of knowledgeable staff.

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International Gardens

I adore the fantastic French Memorial Fountain. This fountain was built in 1972 to commemorate the bicentenary of French exploration in Tasmania. The sculpture is made out of Tasmanian Huon Pine, and its abstract shape is meant to represent the shape of the bow and sails of a French ship.

Located on the northeastern side of the garden is the beautiful Japanese Garden with its iconic red wooden bridge sprawling across the peaceful waterfalls. This area of the park was designed by Kanjiro Harada, a landscape architect from Yaizu, Japan, Hobart’s sister city. Just as in Japan, depending on the season, the colours shapeshift and seems to change the entire atmosphere of the garden. There is never a wrong time to come here. In Spring, you can see the cherry blossoms; in summer, you’ll watch the water lilies bloom. Fall brings dazzling red maples and even in the winter, the waterfall never stops flowing.

Admission: Access to the gardens is free, but you can leave a donation of your choice if you want to continue to support the gardens.

Tasman Bridge

Opposite the gardens is the imposing Tasman Bridge. The bridge is home to two pedestrian walkways. While the bridge itself is made of a simple concrete structure, the views of the Derwent River and the city of Hobart sprawled out in front of you are what is worth the journey up here!

Bellerive

To end the night off, head over to the historic suburb of Bellerive. Bellerive is just on the other side of the Hobart waterfront. If you’ve already dined along Fisherman’s Wharf, this little jaunt over to the east side of the peninsula is totally worth exploring. Bellerive was settled in the 1820s, and it is one of the most historic areas of Hobart. The area was initially called Kangaroo Point, but the name was changed to Bellerive, meaning beautiful riverbank, in the 1830s. Don’t worry if you don’t have a car; Uber services this area and is a great way to get around.

Hooked on Bellerive

Hooked on Bellerive is a total hidden gem. Although it’s small in size, located on a literal floating pontoon, the interior is a gorgeous blend of nautical design and modern aesthetics. The glass windows along the water’s edge make you feel like you’re dining right on the water, and the windows even open right up on hot days. The food is as traditional as can be with a small menu consisting of fried fish, scallops, oysters and calamari served with a side of chips and salad. The wonderfully friendly staff here makes you feel like family, and it’s honestly worth the journey to see a neighbourhood outside the centre of Hobart.

Heading back to the main downtown area, you’ll get a beautiful view of Hobart at night as you cross back over the Tasman Bridge. The lights of the city dancing off the dark water is a sight to see and another reason to come on over to Bellerive. Hopefully, you enjoyed this tour and discovered some of the unique natural features of Hobart and learned a bit more about the dark convict history that haunts these shores.

Happy Travels, Adventurer!

The post An Exciting Alternative Day Tour of Hobart: Mountains, Convicts and More first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

One of the most beautiful aspects of Hobart is the fact that there are so few high-rise buildings that creep across the city. This building limitation was put in place due to Hobart’s proximity to the River Derwent and Mount Wellington. This was due in part to the fact that the government didn’t want to ruin these incredible vistas with views of stark steel towers. The results in the peaceful seaside village we find today. Despite being an urban centre and having all those amenities, Hobart still feels like a secret treasure.

Hobart Full-Day Walking Tour

Hobart is a wonderful place to introduce yourself to the Tasmanian laidback lifestyle before heading out to explore the countryside. While Launceston feels like a ghost town, preserved in amber, Hobart keeps its history but mingles with modern advances. You can easily see the best the city has to offer in two full days since so many of the best sights are within walking distance of each other. Spend the first day using this self-guided walking tour to explore the historic hillsides of Battery Point and the beautiful harbourfront. Then, use the second day in the city to climb (slash drive up) Mount Wellington and discover more about Hobart’s dark convict past.

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History

For over 35,000 years, the semi-nomadic Mouheneener tribe, a sub-group of the Nuenonne people, lived in Hobart. These indigenous people made good use of the astonishing natural resources the River Derwent provided. And the protected access to the Tasman sea also meant their fishing boats were kept safe but could be sent out to bring in fresh food. This indigenous group were the descendants of the Tasmanians we now refer to as the ‘Palawa‘ people.

Hobart was founded as a British colony in 1804, making it the second oldest capital city in Australia after Sydney. Hobart was settled as a penal colony, bringing the most hardened criminals from the shores of England and Ireland to the newly built prisons. Back then, Tasmania was dubbed the ominous ‘Van Diemen’s Land.’ The colony settled here was first named “Hobart Town.” It was named after Robert Hobart, 4th Earl of Buckinghamshire. Lord Hobart was the Secretary of the Colonies when Hobart was settled.

Hobart grew over the years as the freed convicts made their permanent home here. Despite their criminal past, people found these free men were hard and honest workers looking to simply restart their life here in Australia. When the penal colonies closed in 1850, whaling and shipbuilding became the prominent industry in Hobart. Due to Hobart’s proximity to the Southern Ocean, the fisherman quickly found and captured whales for the commercial market. Today, after the decline in whaling, Hobart finds itself serving as the port for Australian and French Antarctic operations and, of course, as a tourist destination for many Australians and international visitors alike.

Georgian Architecture

One of the biggest draws of the town is its convict-era architecture. When settlers arrived on Hobart’s shores, they mainly used the convicts to construct the buildings that now make up the city’s bedrock. Many residents felt that the convict-built houses contained a dark history and saw them as a stain on their new capital city. But Hobart’s “old world” architecture has become one of Hobart’s biggest tourist attractions. The Georgian style was popular in Britain in the 18th to 19th centuries, named after the four British monarchs; George I, George II, George III, and George IV—who reigned in continuous succession. Georgian homes are characterized by symmetry and proportion. Architects were influenced by classical architecture from Greece and Rome. Instead of ornamentation and creativity, Georgian architecture is all about using mathematical ratios to determine the optimal design.

Access

If you have a car, it’s super easy to find some free street parking in Battery Point; keep a lookout for those signs. If you are coming here without a car, most of the hotels and hostels are an easy 20-minute walk from Battery Point. That’s the great thing about Hobart; pretty much everything downtown is located so close together you can easily get away with walking to all your destinations in the center city.

Battery Point

Start your morning off right in the historic neighbourhood of Battery Point. This area is one of Hobart’s most peaceful and beautiful districts, and I love wandering the streets in the early morning. You’ll find the least tourists out and about this time of day, and the area takes on a more authentic neighbourhood feel. I adore wandering aimlessly and watching the locals mull about doing their morning tasks.

Princes Park

Start your tour of Battery Point inside the peaceful Princes Park. The name “Battery Point” was due to the fact that the first Battery was built here in 1818 as a part of Hobart’s coastal defences. Although the Battery was well stocked with guns and ammunition, the defences were never called upon to withstand an invasion. Instead, the Battery was mainly used for ceremonial salutes. The Battery was officially decommissioned in 1878 and turned into a lovely park for the residents in 1934. Princes Park is the perfect place to start the day as it is located on a lookout over the gorgeous River Derwent. Princes Park is also home to some beautiful lush trees, representative of that iconic flora and fauna that makes Tasmania so unique.

Battery Point Historic Homes

After meandering around Princes Park, take a walk along Hampden Road. This street winds up the hillside, climbing higher and higher. As you go, you’ll catch more and more views of the towering Mount Wellington overhead. On either side of the street, you can spot a myriad of different styles of colonial cottages. Keep an eye out for the eave-free homes. These are some of the oldest in the area and have been here since the colony’s establishment. In 1973, the Builders Labourers Federation established a “green ban” on the destruction of the historic building. This ban ensured the historic homes were preserved for future generations. The everyday Tasmanians who own these homes take great pride in keeping them prime and proper and their gardens are almost as glorious as the houses themselves.

Runnymede Street & Arthur Circus Park

For a moment, turn off Hampden Street to explore Runnymede Street, a small circle that surrounds the quaint Arthur Circus Park. The houses surrounding the park are old cottages. These homes were originally constructed for the garrison officers of the Battery. An iconic architectural element to keep your eye out for around here is the “iron lace” verandas. This style of wrought iron is a feature of many buildings in the area and in colonial Australia. In 1870 Australia established its own iron factories, influenced by the Victorian ornamental iron designs they saw in magazines from England. Australians adapted this style for themselves and having an iron lace terrace was a sign of your status in Australian society.

Jackman & McRoss

Located in the heart of the community is the popular cafe Jackman & McRoss. Jackman & McRoss feels like a quintessential Australian cafe, but with a gourmet twist. Their most popular item is the iconic Australian staple: meat pies. But unlike the mystery meat pies you get in truck stops, these pies come in flavours like; goat & lentil, blue eye fish korma, lamb & rosemary and even scallop pie, with shellfish caught right from the Tasman sea.

If sweets are your morning preference, then they have you covered as well. You’ll be drooling over the gorgeous window displays of all their sweet creations. Always go for whatever is labelled “seasonal” as these items are extra special. You can opt to grab your food to go and eat in one of the many beautiful parks around the area or sit inside and watch the locals come in and out for their morning brew.

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St. George’s Anglican Church

From the cafe, head up Waterloo Crescent, then down Colville Street and over Cromwell Street to find your way to St. George’s Anglican Church. Although this is a little bit of a roundabout way to get here, it is the best route to see some of the most amazing historic streets along the way. St. George’s Anglican Church is a Greek revival church built to serve Battery Point residents in 1838. English architect James Blackburn designed the classical tower in 1847. The tower is one of the most impressive parts of the church and a worthy addition.

Nanny Goat Lane

Nanny Goat Lane is home to one of the best spots to get an amazing view across Hobart. This steep and skinny set of steps is essential to help residents make their way from Quayle Street to St Georges Terrace. These little shortcut steps can be found all over the city. Originally, many of these access points were made by the residents themselves and not the city. But in recent years, they have become both historical and accessible assets.

St. Georges Terrace

Continue along Cromwell Street and down De Witt Street until you reach St. Georges Terrace. Standing on the corner of St. Georges Terrace and Colville Street, you have the most incredible view of the water to the left and the sprawling city, crawling over the hillside to your right.

Narryna Heritage Museum

Turn around and walk west along St. Georges Terrace and back north along Sandy Bay Road. Then turn back onto Hampden Street to visit Narryna Heritage Museum. The Narryna Heritage Museum is a delightful place to visit to explore what the interiors of a 1830’s style merchant house would have looked like. Designs and furnishings from early colonial Tasmania have been preserved here. The house and their collection help tell the story of life in Tasmania for those early settlers. The Georgian townhouse was built by the seafarer, Captain Andrew Haig. Haig also built the famous Salamanca warehouses in 1834.

Admission: 10 AUD for adults and 4 AUD for Children.
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday 10 am – 4 pm | Closed Mondays and Sundays

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Kelly Street & Steps

Walk along Hampden Street until you reach Kelly Street. Kelly Street was named after James Kelly, an explorer who circumnavigated Tasmania in 1816. And in only a 5-oared whaling boating nonetheless! Kelly went on to become a whale-oil merchant. Back then whale oil was one of the highest-selling commodities of the Hobart ports. To export the oil, he needed to employ shipwrights, sailmakers, ship chandlers, coopers to make barrels, smiths, wharf labourers, and watermen to ferry the cargo. These men needed to live close to the warehouse, so Kelly took his huge plot of land and subdivided it into smaller cottages for her workers. You can still see many of these old cottages today.

But the most important part of the street is the famous Kelly Steps. The steps were also made by Kelly in 1839. He wanted a shortcut for him and his workers to access the warehouses in Salamanca Place from their homes in Battery Point. The steps were carved into the hillside and from the top provide a stunning view out towards the piers. As the steps were carved almost 200 years ago, they weren’t quite made to code and are very steep, so those with mobility issues should traverse down to Salamanca Place via nearby Runnymede Street.

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Salamanca Place

The steps guide you right to the center of Salamanca Place. These rows of simple, sandstone buildings were once the former warehouses that served the enormous marine industry, that was the Port of Hobart. The area was previously called “Cottage Green” but renamed in 1812. It was named Salamanca after the victory in the Battle of Salamanca by the Duke of Wellington. As the whaling and shipbuilding industry dried up and the port became less and less frequented by ships, the warehouses were transformed into a trendy space for restaurants, theatres, galleries, cafes and shops.

Salamanca Market

The best time to visit Salamanca Place is on Saturdays for the Salamanca Market. Every Saturday, hundreds of vendors come here and pop up their market stalls. Locals come here for fresh produce collected from all around Tasmania. Everything from delicious baked goods, fresh fruits and veg and friendly florists selling bouquets of brightly coloured flowers. Tourists will enjoy all that as well as the crafts and gifts made by local craftspeople. But best of all is the cheery atmosphere local markets provide. The market runs from Salamanca Lawns to Salamanca Place and is open from 8:30 am to 3 pm. This is a great place to get some food for lunch and eat it picnic-style in one of the nearby parks.

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Food at Salamanca

My favourite place to grab a cup of coffee or a delicious brunch is Machine Laundry Cafe. This retro fantasy cafe is located inside the old interiors of a laundry mat. Instead of removing the old machines, they left them on display and in fact, you can still do your laundry here while enjoying your breakfast! A double load will cost you $5 AUD and the dryer costs $1 AUD for 7 minutes. If you’re travelling for a long time and need some laundry done, you cannot miss doing it here! Plus the food is incredible, the perfect hangover cure!

If you want something sweet, check out San Churro Salamanca. Since the area is named after a place in Spain, it seems fitting to find a Spanish Churro shop in the middle of the old warehouses. This place serves up pipping hot, fresh churros served with traditional cinnamon sugar and a side of melted chocolate for dipping! Honey Badger Dessert Cafe is another fantastical brunch restaurant that serves up some decadent breakfast sweets. Try the pancakes or cheesecake covered in candy floss for those of us with a real sweet tooth.

Salamanca Arts Centre

Wanders into the Salamanca Arts Centre to peruse the incredible works of art found inside. Unlike a traditional art gallery, this place is free to visit and an amazing way to explore up-and-coming local artists as well as get a sense of the vibrant art style Hobart is famous for!

I’m a HUGE used book lover, so I adored Deja Vu Books inside the arts centre. This place is a treasure trove of books that wobble from the floor to the ceiling. Aspect Design is a wonderful gift shop inside that supports local Tasmanian artists and craftspeople. Everything is made using local materials and is the best place to pick up something to remember your trip with.

St David’s Park

Continue along Salamanca Place street, passing the Supreme Court of Tasmania. Just opposite the Supreme Court, you’ll find the entrance to St David’s Park. Marking the entrance to the park are the two large lion sandstone sculptures. Their paws clutching onto the column capital. These were a gift for the Hobart bicentennial from an Australian and New Zealand Banking Group. You might spot the image of the lion all over Tasmania. This is because the Tasmania flag has a white disk with the image of a red lion in the center. Throughout the English-style park, there are lots of pretty sandstone sculptures, gorgeous pergolas, and lush Tasmanian flora and fauna.

St David’s Cemetery

While strolling through this peaceful park, many visitors are unaware that under their feet sits the grounds of an old cemetery. St David’s Cemetery was first established here in 1804. The site was thought to be perfect as it was a tranquil part of town with scenic water views. But it was also located a ways away from the residential area of Hobart Town. Many of Hobart’s founding citizens were buried here after serving in the new colony.

As the neighbourhood around the cemetery was built up, many residents became uneasy living close to the corpses. Health officials also voiced concerns about the health risks of this proximity. So, the cemetery was closed in 1872 when the Cornelian Bay cemetery was opened far north of the city centre. In 1919 the town council purchased the land from the church, and the area transformed into a lush recreational park.

There are still 900 bodies buried in the park as only some graves were moved to the new cemetery. Today, you can still see some of these old tombstones and headstones along the memorial wall. These include the remains of David Collins, the first Lieutenant Governor of Tasmania. Taking a look at these headstones, you might notice that many are from young children. Sadly, children’s life expectancy in the new Tasman colony was very low, and many children didn’t survive into adolescence.

Parliament House Gardens

Walk back out to Salamanca Street and make your way to the Parliament House Gardens. On the west side of the park stands the grand Parliament House. Look up at the flag on top of the building to see the red lion for yourself we mentioned previously. In 1825 Tasmania became an independent British colony, and its administration was separate from that of New South Wales. It was here that the first Legislative Council was formed to advise the Lieutenant Governor of Van Diemen’s Land, who had sole governance of the colony. The gardens in front of Parliament House are a peaceful place to stop to rest your feet before continuing on the rest of the tour.

Customs House

On the other side of the road stands the old Customs House. John Lee Archer was the architect who designed the Customs House in 1835. The Customs House was originally used as Tasmania’s primary Parliamentary building until the new Parliament was built in 1841. The beautiful classical revival facade has been preserved and is a great example of the styles of the time. The building is now used as a pub and hostel, so you can still go inside and take in the historic atmosphere.

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Franklin Square

Head North along Murray Street to Franklin Square. Franklin Square is one of the most impressive public squares in Hobart. The square is lined by oak trees on either side. The park was named after Arctic explorer Sir John Franklin. Sir John Franklin was also the Lieutenant-Governor of Van Diemen’s Land from 1837 to 1843.

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In the center of the square stands a large fountain with a statue of Sir John Franklin on top. On one of the stone pedestal, you can see the words, “Not here! The white north has thy bones.” This is because Franklin was obsessed with exploring the artic and perished there instead of at home in Tasmania. In 1845 he set out with two huge vessels, the HMS Terror and HMS Erebus, to explore the Northwest Passage. The ships never returned home as they became icebound. He and all his crew perished at sea, but their death was a mystery for hundreds of years. It wasn’t until 2014 that the ships were discovered, and the mystery was finally put to rest along with Franklin and his crew.

On the east side of the park sits a beautiful sculpture called “Two Islands.” The sculpture portrays a sizeable wooden boat skeleton wrapped around a smaller metal canoe. This sculpture represents the history of the Tasmanian Indigenous people being swallowed up by the European settlers. The Two Islands sculpture also incorporates a soundscape comprised of many voices providing a dialogue revolving around reconciliation for the future.

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St. David’s Cathedral

Sitting just behind Franklin Square is the domineering castellated parapet tower of St. David’s Cathedral. In 1842 Hobart was declared an official city, and the existing smaller St David’s Church became St David’s Cathedral. Construction on the current cathedral began in 1868 but wasn’t complete until 1936. St. David’s Cathedral is designed in the Gothic Revival style by the English architect George Frederick Bodley.

Walking inside, one of the first things I was struck by was the impressive stained glass windows. These windows depict saints, knights, kings and other biblical characters. Despite the rather simple exterior, the interior is replete with neo-Gothic quatrefoil tracery windows, buttressed turrets, stone columns supporting pointed arches and an incredible wooden vaulted ceiling.

Maritime Museum of Tasmania

Depending on your interests I would choose one of the nearby galleries to spend some of the afternoon visiting. One of the best choices is the Maritime Museum of Tasmania. For as long as Tasmania has existed, its relation to the sea has been of the utmost importance. The indigenous people who lived here had strong connections with the sea as they not only used it to source their food but also to connect themselves to the surrounding islands. When the British arrived, they also had a focused on sailing, maritime trade, fishing and other maritime activities. The museum sets out to chart this history and display a variety of objects relating to Maritime Tasmanians.

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Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery

The Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery is an institution that feels like an art gallery, natural history museum, and herbarium all combined into one. Their collection creates one singular place that preserves the natural and cultural heritage of Tasmania. The museum is the second oldest establishment in Tasmania, opening in 1843. Since there is such a variety of objects found here, it’s a great place to visit if you’re group has a multitude of interests.

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Brooke Street Pier

Walk back towards the water along Brooke Street towards the Brooke Street Pier. The Brooke Street Pier is a floating pontoon made to expand the waterfront area of Sullivans Cove. Sullivans Cove, also known as Macquarie Wharf, historically served as the main port for the city of Hobart. Sullivans Cove was the place where Captain David Collins chose to establish a new colony in 1804. He christened the area “Hobart Town.” Sullivans Cove was the ideal place to set up a colony. Its proximity to the Derwent River provided access to inland transportation, and the deep, natural harbour was protected by Storm Bay. And best of all, the area has easy access from the Tasman Peninsula into the ocean.

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The Brooke Street Pier’s pontoon was constructed in 2014 at the cost of 13 million Australian dollars! When it was completed, it was Australia’s largest floating building. From here, you can board a ferry over to the MONA (Museum of Old and New Arts) located on the coastline north of the city. But if you don’t plan on heading up there, the public space inside is almost home to a Tasmanian Market. Here you can buy local Tasmanian produce and gifts—everything from whiskey to seafood, woodcrafts and outerwear! A great place to do some shopping.

Franklin Wharf

Walk along the waterfront adjacent, Franklin Wharf towards the next pier. The historic buildings along this street are stunning, one of which is the old Marine Board. Franklin Wharf is Hobart’s Waterfront where fishing and sailing boats dock, both now and in years past. It is also where you can find some of the best seafood restaurants and cafes at very reasonable prices!

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Elizabeth Street Pier

Elizabeth Street is one of the major street that runs southeast to the northwest through the downtown and into the suburbs. But the famous street ends right here in the harbour. The Governor of New South Wales named Elizabeth Street after his wife, Elizabeth Macquarie. The original Elizabeth Street Pier was in built 1866, but this new concrete structure was built in 1933. Today, the covered pier serves as a space for restaurants, bars and event spaces.

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Fish Frenzy

When I first visited Hobart, I was a young student and was eager to find somewhere to eat great seafood at low prices. No trip to Hobart is complete without some fresh seafood, and even students deserve to try it out! Lucky for me, Fish Frenzy was recommended to me over and over again as the best place for cheap and delicious seafood. It makes me so happy to see they are still wildly popular. Fish Frenzy serves amazingly fresh fish and chips with seafood caught directly from local fishermen. They also serve incredible grilled seafood, chowder, and my personal favourite, Tasmanian scallops. And the best part is you can dine outdoors along the waterfront. Sitting here enjoying your catch of the day is the best way to take in the fantastic views of Hobart’s waterfront.

Lady Nelson Tall Ship

Located right outside Fish Frenzy is the historic Lady Nelson tall ship. To be fair, this is a replica of the historic ship that people still use regularly today! It sets sail from this dock and heads out along the Derwent River. The original HMS Lady Nelson was commissioned in 1799 to survey the coast of Australia. At the time, large parts of the Australian coast were unmapped, and Britain had claimed only part of the continent. This ship would be the first to seal all of Australia for the British. The ship’s crew were also the first to establish settlements on the River Derwent, at Port Dalrymple in Tasmania.

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Constitution Dock

Constitution Dock has been used to harbour fleets in Hobart since its founding in 1804. It is still used today by fisherman who docks here to sell their catch of the day. Walking around this area and the adjacent Fisherman’s Dock, you’ll find that pretty much every single building is a fantastic seafood cafe or restaurant! There is no better place to come for seafood lovers!

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Mures

A Hobart institution that I loved coming back to, night after night, was Mures. Jill & George Mure established Mures Fish House in 1973! Back then, it was located in Battery Point but to ensure the fish’s freshness, they moved the location right to the source on Fisherman’s Wharf. One of the most interesting things about Mures is that they have two different areas of the restaurant; the upper and lower deck. The Lower Deck is where you’ll find the quick-service restaurant serving up their famous fried fish and seafood paired with their world-class chips. But another seemingly strange addition to the lower deck is their cafe with 32 flavours of ice cream! Despite being primarily a seafood shop, their ice cream is AMAZING! You can either eat your plunder inside in their gorgeous mural-covered interior or outside where you can watch fishing boats come in and go out to sea.

The Upper Deck is their fine dining restaurant. Here you can experience the ultimate seafood experience in Hobart. This is a great place to try fresh Tasmanian pacific oysters! You can also sample Tasmanian octopus, Bass Strait squid, Tasmania rock lobster, and local spring bay mussels. Despite being a fine dining restaurant, the prices are shockingly affordable for the incredible quality and freshness you get!

Heading South Sculpture

So much of Hobart is home to random sculptures and art installations that seem to pop up out of nowhere. And the docks aren’t any different. You’ll find the ‘Heading South Sculpture‘ group along the water’s edge towards Hunter street. The first sculpture you see is called ‘The Bernacchi Tribute.‘ Louise Bernacchi was a scientist, photographer, and writer, and he is seen here with his trusty husky dog Joe, holding the flag. Bernacchi was the first Australian to spend and document a winter in Antarctica. In the sculpture, we catch Bernacchi taking a picture (or selfie as we know it today) of himself as he marks his accomplishment.

Behind Bernacchi, we find the bronze sculpture of a group of seals and penguins made by Stephen Walker. This scene is meant to memorialize English explorer James Clark Ross and his role in the 19th-century Antarctic expeditions. Ross sailed from Hobart to Antarctica in 1840. Later, in 1845, Ross set out with Sir John Franklin to help lead his expedition to discover the North-West Passage. Although we both know now how that ended for both explorers.

H. Jones & Co. Factory

Continuing along Franklin Wharf, we arrive at Hunter street, along the Macquarie Wharf (this is my personal favourite part of Hobart’s waterfront!) Standing in front of you, with the names etched across the facade, are the words “IXL. Jams, H. Jones & Co, Ltd.” This old brick warehouse was once a large factory complex established by Henry Jones in 1891. Back then, the Wharf wasn’t connected to the mainland, and the area was named “Hunter Island,” now Hunter Street.

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Henry Jones was the largest producer of jams and marmalades in Australia. He set out to use the local supply of incredible Tasmanian produce to make his beautiful preserves. Although the factory has since closed, today, the building serves as a gorgeously restored Art Hotel (highly recommended). And there is even a little cafe nearby called the Jam Packed Cafe that continues to the heritage of jam lovers in Tasmania.

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Drunken Admiral

The best place to end your day in Hobart is inside the Drunken Admiral! While this restaurant and bar might seem too touristy to be legit, don’t let the kitsch factor dissuade you. The restaurant is decorated to look like you are drinking inside a haul of a pirate ship. Ropes hang from the walls, and the ceiling even appears to be made of the ribbing of a giant ship. The are nautically themed objects all over the place, covering almost every inch of the surface. Some of them are antiques, others are new creations, but it’s almost impossible to tell which ones are which.

Their beer and wine lists are staggering, so it’s a wonderful place to come to sample locally-made spirits of all sorts. But it’s the friendly environment inside this place that makes it so special and the best place to wile the night away.

Hobart is genuinely one of the most sensational cities and a must-see if you are travelling to Tasmania. Whether you come for the food, the beautiful vistas or the historic architecture, you’ll be absolutely transported by this fantastic city!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Best Self Guided Walking Tour of Hobart’s Harbours & Hillsides first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Self-Guided Ghost Tour

But these tours book up SUPER fast, and if you haven’t planned this in advance, you might miss out on being able to explore the site at night. At the time of writing this, tours are fully booked at least 4 months in advance! So I wanted to provide a bit of history and go into all those ghost stories to those who are still interested in learning more about the paranormal activities that take place here. You can read this self-guided tour during your daytime visit, and trust me, this site is so spooky that even in the light of day, these stories will send a chill down your spine.

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Port Arthur Motor Inn & Restaurant

Another idea if you can’t make it onto the prison’s grounds at night is to head over to the Port Arthur Motor Inn & Restaurant. If you dine inside the restaurant, you’ll get a great view of the prison at night, and if you’re brave enough to stay the night, you will even have a clear picture of the complex from your veranda. Sitting out on the balcony, you can look out at the site and read over these stories and imagine being there yourself! Whether or not you believe in ghosts, the stories that go along with the tales recounted here provide insight into the prison’s history and the beliefs that the earliest settlers here clung to.

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Tasmanian Gothic

Tasmanian Gothic is a literary genre that merges Gothic fiction traditions with the history and natural features of the Tasman landscape. The stories deal with the themes of horror, mystery and the uncanny. Many people think that the dark convict history and subsequent ghost stories were the most significant influence on the development of the genre.

The strong belief the Tasman people had in ghosts was influenced by the Irish and Celtic immigrants. These criminals and settlers were the first Europeans to populate the island. They brought a strong tradition of believing in the supernatural. They even brought with them their own ghost stories from their home country that were adapted to their new Australian landscape over time.

Another unlikely influence on Tasmania gothic was Chinese immigrants, who also had a strong connection to the supernatural. Chinese immigrants were brought to Tasmania, mainly in the North East, to help mine tin in those communities. The European workers had little skill in mining, whereas the Chinese immigrants were experienced workers. Although there were only 1000 immigrants who came over from China, their influence was tremendous. They would often outnumber their European counterparts 10 to 1 in those regions. Chinese folklore features many ghosts, monsters, and other mythological creatures derived from the supernatural nature of Buddhism.

History of Port Arthur

In 1830, Governor Sir George Arthur was sent to Van Diemen’s Land to build a penal settlement for convicts from Britain and Ireland. Van Diemen’s Land was the name given to Tasmania when Dutch explorers claimed the land and named it to honour Anthony van Diemen, the current Dutch Governor-General. At the site, the most hardened criminals came to stay. The worst of the worst as being sent to the other side of the world was seen as the most severe punishment, save for execution. For this reason, Port Arthur had some of the strictest security measures and most brutal punishments.

But Port Arthur was also a working prison. Authorities wanted to see these convicts reformed through a combination of religions, education and training in a variety of trades. This meant that the prison was known as an “industrial prison”. Port Arthur began as a timber camp; the location was rich with forests and close enough to Hobart’s main port to ship out the timber. After 15 years, the prison built a shipyard and began constructing shops. The prisoners also produced flour from the mill and made nails, bricks and boots all for sale to ensure the prison was profitable.

Life in the Prison

Port Arthur was reputed to be an inescapable prison. It was located on this peninsula that is surrounded on all sides by supposedly shark-infested waters. The only way to the mainland is across a 30-meter wide isthmus guarded by both soldiers, half-starved dogs and man-made traps. Only two prisoners were known to have escaped. One failed escape took place when a prisoner disguised himself using a kangaroo hide.

The prisoners’ conditions were so dire that they would even murder another inmate just to escape their situation. Murder was punishable by death and some would prefer this to staying any longer at Port Arthur. Savage floggings and brutal chain gangs were reported by the prisons when they returned back to England. It had a genuine reputation of being “hell on earth.” Any prisoner who attempted to escape would suffer 100 lashes. The prisoners would get horrible infections in their squalid living conditions. Often, these infections got so bad, that they lead to the death of the inmates.

But it wasn’t the corporal punishments that were the worst part of life at the prison. No, Port Arthur was one of the first Australian prisons to implement the “silent system”. This meant placing prisoners into individual cells where they were kept quiet for 23 hours a day. They got to leave their cell for one hour a day but were made to wear a hood anytime they were outside to ensure they never saw another human face. Although it wasn’t their intended outcome, this sent many prisoners mad. Eventually, an asylum was built to deal with the mental illness created by these inhumane conditions.

The Old Church

The old stone Church at Port Arthur was cursed almost from the moment the stones were laid. The stones were hewn from rocks by the young boys on Point Puer. Those poor boys were subjected to such horrible conditions, living on this isolated island away from the rest of the settlement. This was done to ensure these young criminals weren’t influenced by the older inmates. And that they wouldn’t disturb their path towards righteousness.

Curse of the Point Puer Prison Boys

But as they were almost forgotten about, away from the mainland, their living conditions were dire and no one took any notice. Many young children died due to diseases that ran rampant and terrible malnutrition. These sick and starving boys were forced to perform hard labour. They were made to hew, carve and haul stones for the church’s construction. No doubt this work was exhausting especially when they were barely being fed a proper diet. One can only imagine how many boys died trying to prepare the materials for the church. The haunted souls of these young men cursed the construction for the start.

Murder at the Church

To built the church, Port Arthur used prisoners as their free labourers. One day, a violent prisoner got into an argument with another labourer. Without another thought, the prisoner picked up a pickaxe and struck the other man in the head three times. When he was done, he placed the pickax down and whispered, “I am satisfied.” Blood was splattered all over the stone walls. Although the blood was washed from the walls the ivy which grows over the rest of the church would never grow where the man’s blood had been spilled.

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Church Bell Tower

Residents at Port Arthur have reported seeing strange figures in the bell tower at night. This is despite the fact that there are no stairs or even a floor up the bell tower. The bells (that are now stationary on the ground) have been known to ring out randomly, despite no ringer being present. Perhaps this is a spirit from the prison, pleading for help, unknowing of the fact that he is already dead.

Parsonage Building

The Parsonage, easily spotted by its brightly painted terracotta exterior, was built in 1842 for Reverend Durham and his family. Today, this building is one of the most active paranormal spots on the site. After Reverend Durham left, another family moved in in 1857. Reverend George Eastman arrived with his wife, Louise and their 10 children. The children were poorly behaved and were notorious for destroying the gardens and surrounding prison farming land. The inmates worked so hard to kee in proper running order, and the children seemed to take pleasure in wrecking it. Their carefree and rude attitude angered the inmates greatly. The children, perhaps influenced by their father, had little regard for the prisoners.

Reverend George Eastman died in 1870 in this very house. After his death, people began to see ghostly apparitions appear in the Parsonage almost right after. A strong sulphuric odour would fill the home, yet a source for it never could be located. Moaning and other strange noises would be heard at night. Lights would even flash on and off, even when no one was home. Although Eastman was a good man, he died very young. After his death, he left his wife and 10 children to fend for themselves, as they were not cared for by the ministry or the government. The widow and her children lived a difficult life of poverty until their ultimate end. Eastman’s ghost perhaps returns to morn for his tortured family.

Junior Medical Officer’s Home

Across from the church, there is a street with a series of houses called Officer’s Row. This was where several of the most senior officers lived. The houses were separated from the prison area to ensure the workers felt like they weren’t living with the inmates. The first house on this row is the Junior Medical Officer’s home. It was here that the medical Officer would tend to prisoners.

The basement of the Medical Officer’s Home was where the Senior Surgeon’s dissection room was located. It was here that former inmates’ dead bodies were opened up and examined. But their bodies weren’t simply dissected for routine autopsies. Sometimes, medical experiments were taken out on the dead bodies, even though the prisoners hadn’t given their consent to have this done. Many religious men believed that this was a desecration of their soul, but the illegal experiments continued despite this.

Walking into the old dissection room, the temperature seems to drop drastically, more than it should fall in an underground basement. People have reported seeing eyes on the walls and bloody faces appearing on the stones, only to disappear instantly. Perhaps these are the wronged prisoners’ spirits, still waiting to get their revenge on the surgeon.

The Lady in Blue

The most famous ghost of Officer’s row is that of a melancholy woman who lost her baby. She has been called the ‘Lady in Blue‘ after her iconic blue dress she wears. One of the Officer’s wives suffered a horrific miscarriage while living here. It’s said that she still searches the grounds for her unborn child. It is rumoured that the baby could not be buried with the mother on the Isle of the Dead. This was because the child had not been baptized and back then, you could not bury an unbaptized child on consecrated land. Because she could not rest for eternity with her beloved lost child, she still wanders the grounds aimlessly. Searching endlessly in the hopes of being reunited.

Asylum

The Asylum was home to prisoners who were too mentally ill to serve inside the central prison. They were left here to souls still reside in these walls. People hear footsteps at night, and lights turn on and off on their own. But the two most famous ghosts of the Asylum aren’t of prisoners at all, but of a young girl and an older woman who roam the halls. After the prison closed in 1877, the asylum building was refurbished and turned into a school. Although we don’t know why this school teacher and her pupil haunt these halls one can imagine they themselves might have been tortured by the ghost of old inmates.

Separate Prison

Besides the Asylum, we find the Separate Prison. The Separate Prison was where prisoners would come to suffer under the torments of solitary confinement. The Commandants of Port Arthur believed in psychological punishment over corporal punishments (although that was prevalent as well). In these silent cells, prisoners would spend 23 hours alone. Whenever they left their cells, they were forced to wear a hood and made to stay quiet at any cost. The guards even learned sign language to ensure the inmates never heard the sound of human voices.

This kind of “treatment” was thought to give the prisoners time to reflect on their misdoings. This kind of penitence was presumed to guide them into a life of reform. But it usually did no such thing, and many prisoners were driven mad by the treatment. Once the inmates went mad, they were simply moved from the Separate Prison over the Asylum. There, they would eventually die from maltreatment or malnutrition or simply neglect. They never even had a chance to leave Port Arthur.

Famous Prisoner Ghosts

One famous prisoner, William Carter, hung himself from his cell in 1867. He felt this was his only escape from the “silent system.” When people think death is their only escape, you know how dark things must have been inside Port Arthur’s walls. You can still visit Carter’s cell today. Many people report the feeling of overwhelming sadness when inside, as if the spirit was still lingering. People who come to the Separate Prison have been known to feel like someone is touching them when no one is there. People have even been scratched by phantom hands.

In the C Wing is where they held the most dangerous, violent and criminally insane individuals. People have reported they saw the ghost of John Gould, a criminal sent here after the attempted rape of a child. He appears in the small window of his cell, peering out hauntingly at the guests.

One of the saddest stories from the separate prison is that a young boy who was sentenced to death. It was very rare, even back then, that such a young child could have done anything serious enough to warrant a death sentence. Today, people report hearing the cries of a young boy at night time, just like the cries he was said to have made before his execution.

Penitentiary

It’s worth mentioning that not many ghosts are known to be seen inside the old Penitentiary. While many inmates suffered horrible fates, the prisoner who stayed inside the main Penitentiary were generally very well behaved. This part of the prison was truly for social reform. The prisoner slept in large dormitories where they could socialize with each other. They were given a chance to reform themselves while attending church and even learned many trades like shipbuilding, carpentry, and blacksmithing.

The Guard Tower

Standing at the Guard Tower, looking out over the rest of Port Arthur, there have been accountants of moans echoing throughout the tower. Apparitions of soldiers in their uniforms have appeared to guests. One guest even reported having their arm grabbed as they passed by.

Commandant’s House

The large, white-bricked building on the end of the peninsula belongs to the Commandant. Located on a slight incline, the house looks out over the bay and the entire prison complex. This was the first house built in Port Arthur and was made for the prison director, also called the Commandant. No doubt the Commandant was one of the most careless individuals, constantly putting prisoners, even the goodly ones, into such abominable environments. Inside, one of his rocking chairs is still there and is seen rocking back and forth without anyone sitting upon it. This is thought to be the spirit of the old Commandant. Still, obsessively watching over the colony all these years later. People have reported that if they try to take a picture of the chair their cameras being to malfunction or the images are extremely blurry despite the photographer remaining still.

Jetty

Near the Jetty Dock to Point Puer, keep your eyes open around the cottage for a young soldier. In 1840, Private Robert Young fell into the black waters in the middle of the night. He was on his way to deliver a doctor to the young boy’s prison. Despite all efforts to pull him from the water, he perished. Young is still seen on the cottage’s stoop, looking out over the dark waters. Some people report they saw the dark spirits pulling him into the waters when he died. Perhaps the spirit of Young keeps watch around the Jetty to ensure no one else suffers the same fate he did.

Isle of the Dead

Located off the mainland, we find the most haunting part of Port Arthur, the Isle of the Dead. This island is a scary place to be during the day and at night, especially when it gets quiet. It was here that the dead from the prison settlement were buried. Over 1,600 prisoners were buried here, along with workers from the prison. Only the workers were initially given marked graves, whereas the prisoners were just placed into unmarked mass burial sites. It is well known among spiritual beliver that someone who doesn’t receive a proper burial without a marked tombstone, will roam the earth. Endlessly searching for revenge and unable to take their eternal rest.

The Gravedigger of Port Arthur

It was customary for one of the prisoners to become the resident gravedigger. They was forced to live alone on the Isle of the Dead in a small wooden hut. Mark Jeffrey is the most infamous of all Port Arthur’s gravediggers. He was accused of manslaughter and sent to Port Arthur from Ireland. One day, there was a signal fire spotted on the mainland. Soldier’s went to see what was happening and the hut destroyed and Jeffrey in great distress. The gravedigger begged the soldiers to take him back with them to the mainland. He claimed to have seen the Devil. Jeffrey reported that the devil appeared to him, destroyed his hut and left Jeffrey shaken in pure terror. The gravedigger never recovered from the supposed attack and spent the rest of his days in the Asylum.

Point Puer Prison

Point Puer Prison was a separate island prison that held only the young offenders. It was thought that by keeping them far away from the mainland, the children wouldn’t be subject to the negative influences of the adult inmates. 3,000 boys were sent to the island, and while it was meant to house boys aged 14-17, there are records of boys as young as nine being sent here. Nothing remains of the prison today, except for the spirits of the young boys who perished on the island. People constantly report the sounds of children’s voices on the island, crying out in pain and screaming for help. But when people make their way to the island, they isn’t anyone there.

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Hopefully, after reading through these stories, you can see why Port Arthur is one of the most haunted places in Tasmania, if not all of Australia. Even if you don’t believe in ghosts, there is no doubt that the treatment of the prisoners sent here was inhumane and that their tortured souls are more than likely still searching for peace. If you have the chance to visit Port Arthur, either during the day or attending one of their fantastic ghost tours, take some time to remember the spirits of all those who perished here and perhaps you might be lucky enough to spot one for yourself!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post An Exciting & Haunting Self-Guided Tour of Port Arthur’s Ghosts first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

This complex gives a fantastic and haunting look back in time at Tasmania’s penal colony past. Port Arthur was the first of any Australian convict site I visited. And although I thought I was prepared for what I would see, nothing could have prepared me for how powerful this historic site could be.

Table Of Contents

1. Aboriginal History
2. History of Port Arthur
3. Life in the Prison
4. The Massacre at Port Arthur
5. Practical Information
   • Hours and Admission
   • Access
   • Accessibility
   • Map
6. Visitor Center
7. Life Lottery
8. Government Gardens
9. Government Cottage
10. The Church
11. Scorpion Rock Lookout
12. Parsonage House
13. Accountant’s House
14. Junior Officer's Cottage
15. Chaplain & Magistrate's Houses
16. Trentham Cottage
17. Soldiers' Memorial Avenue
18. The Asylum
19. Separate Prison
20. The Hospital
21. Smith O'Brien's Cottage
22. The Penitentiary
    • The Old Mill
    • The New Penitentiary
23. Guard Tower
24. The Commandant Residence
25. Memorial Garden
26. Dockyards
27. Puer Boy's Prison
28. Isle of the Dead
29. Ghost Tour
30. Port Arthur Motor Inn & Restaurant

Aboriginal History

Before the colonization of Tasmania by the British, the Tasmanian Aboriginal people, self-name Palawa, lived rich lives here on the shores of the south coast. The clan that lived on the south peninsula were called the Pydarerme. These aboriginal people are entirely different from those in Australia since Tasmania was cut off from the mainland 10,000 years ago. Before the British colonization, there were around 3,000–15,000 Palawa that lived off this land. But by 1835, only 400 full-blooded Palawa people survived, mainly due to the impact of diseases introduced by the British. But this doesn’t mean the British were free from violent culpability; the British invaders also incarcerated many of the Palawa people in camps where they also died.

The absolute abolishment of the aboriginal Tasmanian people has been deemed a genocide as per the UN’s definition. Today, there are only a few thousand remaining Palawa, mainly mixed with European blood from the British settlers. Although the original Tasmanian language has been lost, there is an effort to rebuild it and restore much of the history ripped from the indigenous people of Tasmania. We need to remember the land’s past when visiting sites like this and recall that the convict history, while seemingly ancient, is actually very modern when compared to the thousands of years of history of the Palawa people.

History of Port Arthur

In 1830, Governor Sir George Arthur was sent to Van Diemen’s Land to build a penal settlement for convicts from Britain and Ireland. Van Diemen’s Land was the name given to Tasmania when Dutch explorers claimed the land and named it to honour Anthony van Diemen, the current Dutch Governor-General. At the site, the most hardened criminals came to stay. The worst of the worst as being sent to the other side of the world was seen as the most severe punishment, save for execution. For this reason, Port Arthur had some of the strictest security measures and most brutal punishments.

But Port Arthur was also a working prison. Authorities wanted to see these convicts reformed through a combination of religions, education and training in a variety of trades. This meant that the prison was known as an “industrial prison”. Port Arthur began as a timber camp; the location was rich with forests and close enough to Hobart’s main port to ship out the timber. After 15 years, the prison built a shipyard and began constructing shops. The prisoners also produced flour from the mill and made nails, bricks and boots all for sale to ensure the prison was profitable.

Life in the Prison

Port Arthur was reputed to be an inescapable prison. It was located on this peninsula that is surrounded on all sides by supposedly shark-infested waters. The only way to the mainland is across a 30-meter wide isthmus guarded by both soldiers, half-starved dogs and man-made traps. Only two prisoners were known to have escaped. One failed escape took place when a prisoner disguised himself using a kangaroo hide.

The prisoners’ conditions were so dire that they would even murder another inmate just to escape their situation. Murder was punishable by death and some would prefer this to staying any longer at Port Arthur. Savage floggings and brutal chain gangs were reported by the prisons when they returned back to England. It had a genuine reputation of being “hell on earth.” Any prisoner who attempted to escape would suffer 100 lashes. The prisoners would get horrible infections in their squalid living conditions. Often, these infections got so bad, that they lead to the death of the inmates.

But it wasn’t the corporal punishments that were the worst part of life at the prison. No, Port Arthur was one of the first Australian prisons to implement the “silent system”. This meant placing prisoners into individual cells where they were kept quiet for 23 hours a day. They got to leave their cell for one hour a day but were made to wear a hood anytime they were outside to ensure they never saw another human face. Although it wasn’t their intended outcome, this sent many prisoners mad. Eventually, an asylum was built to deal with the mental illness created by these inhumane conditions.

The Massacre at Port Arthur

In 1996, long after the prison had closed down and turned into a tourist attraction, Port Arthur was once more the site of great suffering. It was here that Australia found itself at the center of their worst mass shooting event in the country’s history. A lone shooter killed 35 innocent people, wounded 32 others and scarred an entire nation. It was this event that changed the course of Australia’s gun laws forever and since then they have never had another mass shooting. Today, the event is quietly remembered by transforming the old cafeteria where most of the shooting took place into a sombre, garden and reflecting pond. Although thinking back to these events is so haunting, it’s important to understand just how much suffering is soaked into the grounds of Port Arthur.

Practical Information

Accessibility

While the Port Arthur Historic Site’s rugged terrain might seem like it would be impossible to visit with a wheelchair, the site has made extensive efforts to make it more accessible for visitors. Some areas offer independent wheelchair access, while others may require assisted access. The Visitor Centre, café, restaurant and the Port Arthur Gallery are all wheelchair accessible via ramps or elevator. Accessible bathroom facilities are also available within the Visitor Centre.

Not all historic buildings and ruins are wheelchair accessible. Ask Visitor Services staff to find out which ones are safe to enter. The introductory Tour and Harbour Cruise are both wheelchair accessible. There are also wheelchairs available for loan from the Visitor Centre.

Map

When you enter the site and pass through the admission building you will get a paper map but I found this google map helpful as well. Since you can download it onto your phone you’ll be able to get real-time locations as you make your way around so you can easily check what site you are nearby.

Visitor Center

Entry into Port Arthur begins inside the Visitors Center. The Visitors Center acts as an introductory museum with artifacts and information about the prison’s founding and life inside. One of the best parts is the minature model that recreates the complex as it would have been during its heyday. This gives you a great visual idea of how the entire place would have looked long before it was left to ruin. Throughout the museum, there are lots of displays that focus on the brutal punishments the prisoners suffered. Seeing these implements of torture up close and personal sends a chill down your spine.

Life Lottery

Inside the Visitor Center, be sure to pick up a ‘Prisoner Card.’ This will assign you to the fate of one of the real-life prisoners who came to Port Arthur. This is called the “Life Lottery”. At the end of the tour inside the visitors center, you can discover how your inmate lived or died or even perhaps was one of the few who escaped life in Port Arthur. The different cards change the way you are lead throughout the convict gallery and really make the experience more interactive!

My inmate was William Thompson, a shoemaker and thief who was sent to Port Arthur for breaking into a house. He served four years at Port Arthur. Despite his relatively common crime, his experience as the prisoner was marred by a violent accident he witnessed inside the coal mines. He was forced to work inside the mines for 12 months. Eventually, he was removed to the shoemaking shop where he could apply his trade. Once released from prison, he moved to Hobart, where he met his wife, and they started a family. They went on to have seven children, and today their descendants make up the fabric of the population of Tasmania.

Government Gardens

Despite being a site of such sadness and violence, the Government Gardens are a beautiful place to visit. These were designed in 1846 as a place where visitors and resident families could escape the prison’s overwhelming terror. The gardens were laid out in a symmetrical and tidy fashion to communicate the ideals of order, peace and beauty that the prison wanted to exemplify. Plants found throughout the garden are mainly from England. The ex-pats wanted to bring a little bit of home to the employees and their families who had moved from Britain. Perhaps walking through the gardens, they could for a moment imagine they were back home. Everything from violets to foxgloves now grows throughout the area.

Government Cottage

The Government Cottage was where the senior officers and their families lived while stationed at Port Arthur. This residence was located a ways away from the prisoners, separated by the large Government Gardens. This was seen as a luxury and was saved for only the most important employees. Many of the wives who lived here also helped wash, saw and provide nursing care for the men on the island. Their children even could attend the nearby Free School where they were educated onsite.

The Church

The Church was where the convict would gather every Sunday for their mandatory religious reform. Here up to 1100 people would cram themselves into the church’s doors to listen to spiritual services. The church itself was built by prisoners in 1837. Although the builders were amateurs, they attempted their best adaptation of the gothic style. The stones used for the church walls were made by the young boys from the nearby Point Puer island prison.

The church was never consecrated to allow a multi-denominational service to be held inside. The church was destroyed by bushfires in 1895. All we are left with is the haunting brick skeleton.

Scorpion Rock Lookout

A little trail leads from the edge of the church up the hillside towards Scorpion Rock Lookout. From up here, there is a wonderful viewpoint over the entire prison complex. From here, you can really get a sense of the layout of the prison.

Parsonage House

Back onto the prison grounds, we approach the white picket fences and burnt orange exterior of the Parsonage House. A large street, called Civil Officers Row, was used to separate the convict population from the officers and their families. The more senior officers living quarters were built the furthest away to ensure they had some separation between work life and home life. The Parsonage was built in 1842 for Reverend Durham and his family. Durham was Irish and had a fiery temper. He would often get into squabbles with the Catholic convicts and even the church Chaplin. Eventually, Durham returned to Ireland. When he returned home, he was committed to an asylum. Oe can only imagine the kind of things he experiences at Port Arthur that would have affected his mind so much that he had to be committed.

Durham was replaced by Reverend George Eastman arrived with his wife, Louise and their 10 children. Eastman had served at other prisons, so he came with a bit of experience and had a kinder attitude towards the inmates. Reverend George Eastman fell ill in 1870 but, despite his sickness, continued to treat the sick prisoners. In his weakened state, he caught a cold from his work and died inside the Parsonage in 1870.

Accountant’s House

The Accountant’s House was built in 1843. It was designed to house the officer in charge of the supply of food and equipment into the prison. The house was purchased in 1889 and used as a school. The owner of the house took great pains to save the place from the bushfires, which is why we are left with such a well-preserved original structure today.

Junior Officer’s Cottage

Across the street, we find the Junior Medical Officer’s Cottage. The Junior Officer’s Cottage, also known as the Junior Medical Officer’s house, was one of the most luxurious houses located on the premises. Initially, the junior officer who first moved in here lived in a condemned house with his wife. They were threatening to resign if they didn’t get somewhere nicer to live. So this building was designed to accommodate them in 1848. In early 1900, this cottage was restored and was opened as a hotel, which is why it is in such good condition. Today, it remains one of the best examples of Australian Georgian architecture. You can go inside and tour the beautiful interiors that give you an idea of the furnishings available on the island.

Chaplain & Magistrate’s Houses

At the back of Officer’s Row, we find the resident Chaplain’s House and the visiting Magistrate’s Cottage. The Magistrate’s cottage was built in 1847 for 88 pounds, making it the most extensive and most expensive historic house on the grounds. The Magistrate was the judicial official vested with limited judicial powers. He would frequent the site to ensure everything was being run to the highest standards. Therefore it was essential to impress the visiting Magistrate with a lavish abode. After the prison closed down, the house was turned into the “Clougha Hotel.” It was advertised as a secluded escape with orchards, a nearby boating area and a shooting range. Today the interiors have been fully restored, and the space is mainly used as a meeting space for the museum staff.

The Chaplain’s House survived the bushfires of 1895 and 1897 and was bought up as a part of “Hotel Arthur.” The hotel complex couldn’t afford to restore the dilapidated interiors, so today, the houses can be simply viewed from the street.

Trentham Cottage

Walk down Tramway Street, passing Bond Street until you reach the Trentham Cottage. Trentham Cottage was built in 1898, late in the prison’s history. In fact, this is one of the buildings constructed after the convict era in Port Arthur.

Soldiers’ Memorial Avenue

The long row of trees was planted here in honour of the men from Carnarvon and Oakwood who served in the First World War and was named the “Soldiers’ Memorial Avenue”. Soldiers’ Memorial Avenue is a peaceful walk in the wood, leading up to the most ominous buildings in the complex.

The Asylum

Certain inmates who were taken to the prison were considered “mentally unstable” and therefore unable to be processed with the rest of the population. So this Asylum was built to house the “lunatics,” as they were once called. But the treatment of mental health back then was basically nonexistent, so these poor individuals were left to rot away in their single cells. Some of the prisoners housed in the nearby Separate Prison went insane during their time in solitary confinement. They simply moved from one part of the prison to another as their mental state got worse and worse.

A visitor to the Asylum reported that there were only two kinds of inmates in the Asylum. There were those who were catatonic and could barely move or speak, or those who were violently deranged and beyond the point of being able to be rehabilitated. It must truly have been a horrific place to both visit and be incarcerated. After the bush fires of 1895, the building was rebuilt and turned into a community center. Now the building serves as a cafe and a small museum. It seems pretty odd to be drinking a coffee in such a place of torture and mistreatment.

Separate Prison

The Separate Prison was better known as the solitary confinement building. Solitary confinement was a new method of punishment brought to Port Arthur in the early days of the prison. It was here that the convicted would be locked inside a solitary cell for 23 hours a day. During their one hour outside of their cell, they would be forced to walk around the high-walled yard, also alone, as each prisoner was given a different time of day to do their exercises. When the inmates left their cells, a hood would be placed on their heads so they couldn’t even see the guards or other prisoners. The guards on duty would use sign language to communicate to ensure the men never even heard voices. This, of course, meant so many of the men went mad, in much higher percentages than in other prison systems.

The people who ran Port Arthur seemed unmoved and continued with the abusive process. Some men were known to have been kept in separate prisons for as long as 14 years! Shockingly, after the prison closed down, the Separate Prison was sold off in the attempt to be converted into a hotel! A fire put a stop to the renovations, and now the old cells’ historic appearance still remain. Personally, I can’t imagine staying in what was once an old prison. But I suppose there is a market for that, even today.

The Hospital

Walking back to the main street towards the Penitentiary, you’ll pass the old hospital’s ruins on your right. The hospital was frequented very often by inmates. The poor conditions in prison made diseases like the common cold and other respiratory illnesses easily transmissible. This was mainly due to the cells being so cold and the criminals being forced to work outdoors in all weather conditions.

Smith O’Brien’s Cottage

Off in the distance, behind the hospital, you’ll see a buttercream yellow brick building; this is the Smith O’Brien’s Cottage. William Smith O’Brien was an Irish politician and leader of the Young Irelander Rebellion of 1848. He was first sent to Maria Island, and once he was there for a short time, he was transferred to Port Arthur. As he was somewhat of a celebrity and a very obedient prisoner, the commanders at Port Arthur had a little cottage built for his year-long residents. The building used for his cottage was originally an old stable which was converted in 1850. The building was sold off in 1940 and used as a youth hostel in the 1970s.

The Penitentiary

The large Penitentiary stands near the water’s edge. Although its roof has long since fallen in, the thick bricked exterior remains as a study silhouette against the rest of the landscape. The building fell into ruins after a massive bushfire gutted the interior. Before Port Arthur became a historic site, residents of the area would come here to steal bricks to build their houses and sheds. So you never know when a place you’ll be staying might be made from the bricks of the old Penitentiary.

The Old Mill

When the building was first established in 1845, it wasn’t made for housing but as a prisoners’ grainery. Here grain was milled for flour. The flour was then shipped to Hobart to be sold off in the hopes of making the prison more financially stable. When the water pressure wasn’t strong enough, prisoners were made to walk on a giant treadmill that helped power the mill. Despite the prison’s best efforts to make the mill a viable business, there were simply too many problems. Eventually, it was converted to the new Penitentiary.

The New Penitentiary

In its heyday, the building would have housed over 600 prisoners. The upper floors were dedicated to the “well behaved” prisoners. They slept in a huge dormitory and had access to a prisoner library, schoolroom and large dining hall. On the western side of the building, a kitchen and bakery served both the prisoners and the workers alike. The bottom level of the prison was for the so-called “lions”. These were violent offenders and those who didn’t obey the prison system. They each slept in individual cells, cut off from the rest of the population. This served as a warning before they were sent off to the dreaded Separate Prison.

Walking through these huge ruins is such a powerful part of the tour. One can really imagine how many men would have served here and if you close your eyes you can even imagine how loud this space once would have been.

Guard Tower

Walk west, towards the water where you’ll find the large Guard Tower. The guard tower was where the prison security officers would keep a lookout for any potential escapees. The guard tower was built with some of the same stonework as the church, made by the boys on the island. Due to the stone’s materials, this building withstood the large bushfire, which ravaged most of the settlement in 1895. The basement of the guard tower was used as an ammunition storeroom.

The Commandant Residence

Sitting adjacent to the Guard Tower, we find the old Commandant Residence. The Commandant was the prison’s most senior officer. As the most senior officer, they were designated to have the best residence on the grounds. The house was built in 1833, although it was nothing more than a simple wood cottage. The house’s location allowed the Commandant to look out over the rest of the settlement from the beautiful wrap-around veranda.

In 1854, the new Commandant, James Boyd, made a significant expansion to the house. He installed new brickwork and created enough space for 8 new rooms and even a servant’s quarters. You can still tour the interior, which has been preserved in its original 1850’s appearance.

Memorial Garden

Walking towards the Dockyards, you approach the Memorial Garden nestled into the edge of the hillside. This sombre water pond and surrounding garden were established in honour of the lives lost during the April 1996 mass shooting tragedy. During the ramage, 20 people, including both employees and tourists, were killed at this location alone. In total, 35 people were killed. Among the people who died here were members of the Historic Site staff, who died trying to protect others. The Memorial Gardens were designed inside the old Broad Arrow Cafe’s footprint where the killings took place. The building was demolished as it was too painful of memory, but the building’s outline can still be made out. Be sure to spend a few quiet moments here to remember those that passed.

Dockyards

Since one of the facility’s objectives was to teach men trades, one of the most important jobs of the time was shipbuilding. Although it was just convicts building these ships, it was reported that the boats that came out of Port Arthur were some of the best made in the nation. Convicts were responsible for building 16 large-scale vessels and over 150 smaller boats. In addition to creating new ships, they also repaired older ships in the dockyards. The prisoners learned everything from carpentry, blacksmithing, learning to be caulkers and coopers, in addition to assembling timber for production.

The dockyards were operational from 1834 to 1848. The only reason the dockyard was closed down was that the shipbuilders union complained that it was putting them out of business. Since the labour was free, as the workers were criminals, and the quality was so good, the ships cost vastly less to make than elsewhere. Another reason for the closure was that the learning of trades was optional as a form of rehabilitation. Many prisoners began to refuse to learn to build the ships as a means of rebellion.

Puer Boy’s Prison

Included in your admission is a 20-minute harbour cruise that runs from the Jetty to Point Puer Boy’s Prison and finally to the Island of the Dead. Puer Boy’s Prison was built as a reformatory for juveniles from the British Empire. These boys were aged 14 to 17, but there are records of boys as young as 9 being sent to prison. In fact, 10 to 20% of the arrivals on the island were made up of young boys. Their prison was located on the island to separate them from the older convicts. This was done in order to prevent the older inmates from influencing the younger generation.

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But their separation may also have contributed to the high mortality rates. Children on this island were known to have many diseases and suffered from poor nutrition. Injuries were commonly reported as a result of their laborious punishments. This labour included tree felling, coal-mining, road making and stonework. Since they were so far away from the mainland, the observation of the prison was often forgotten about and therefore these poor conditions continued. Unfortunately, no buildings remain at the site but wandering the now overgrown island is still a haunting place to visit. The prison once contained a barracks, two cell blocks, two exercise yards and two school rooms.

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Isle of the Dead

Across from the boy’s prison site, on a small island, is the Isle of the Dead. This island is the resting place of all those who died inside the prison. It is home to 1,646 graves, but only 180 of those graves are marked. The marked graves are for the prison staff and military personnel. All the prisoners received unmarked graves. You can make your way around the island, but be sure to be respectful on your journey.

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Ghost Tour

One of the best ways to experience the darker side of Port Arthur is at night. Specifically at one of their evening lantern-lit ghost tours. The ghost tours are even more popular than the regular site tours, and they book up fast, so best to book that tour well in advance. Since the site was such a place of pain and suffering it is the perfect location for hauntings. Whether you believe in ghosts or not the storytelling that takes place here is phenomenal and seeing the site at night is a really unique experience.

If you are interested in doing the ghost tour yourself, I have an excellent self-guided tour. Please be aware that you can ONLY enter the site at night by guided tour, so if you want to do the ghost tour yourself, you’ll have to do it during the day. But trust me, this site is spooky enough to send chills down your spine any time of the day.

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Port Arthur Motor Inn & Restaurant

I would recommend staying at the Port Arthur Motor Inn. Although the accommodations are fairly basic, as it is a 3-star motor inn, the location is what you’re there for. The rooms look out over the old historic site and getting to fall asleep and wake up to that view is something truly spectacular. Since there is a restaurant inside the motel, you can even get a reasonably decent meal right to your room to enjoy while looking out over the old prison. It sounds spooky, but it’s actually rather scenic.

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Let me know in the comments if you’ve visited the site before or what part of the tour you are most looking forward to!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Free Self-Guided Tour of Haunting Historic Port Arthur, Tasmania first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Launceston is untouched by mega-tourism and has a unique landscape only found in this part of the country. Launceston to me felt like a combination of New Zealand’s rich scenery and Australia’s vibrant culture. If you’re a tourist who wants to get off the beaten track and get a little peace and quiet, then Launceston is the place for you.

Table Of Contents

1. History
2. Access
3. Best Time to Visit
4. What to Pack?
5. Where to Stay
   • Launceston Backpackers
   • Kurrajong House
   • Hatherley Birrell Collection
6. What to do in Launceston
   • 1. Sweetbrew 
   • 2. Eat the Day Away at the Harvest Farmer's Market
   • 3. Explore Cataract Gorge
   • 4. Get up High on the Gorge Scenic Chairlift
   • 5. Wonder at the Works inside Queen Victoria Museum & Art Gallery
   • 6. Discover the old Craftsmanship inside the Old Umbrella Shop
   • 7. Indulge in Fine Dining at Stillwater
   • 8. Go Back in Time inside Franklin House
   • 9. Sip on Aged Ales at James Boag Brewery Experience
   • 10. Get Spooked on Launceston City Ghost Tours
   • 11. Wander down Memory Lane on a Self Guided History Walk

History

Launceston, located on the northern tip of the state of Tasmania, is one of their two main cities. The other being Hobart, located on the southern end. Launceston is Australia’s third oldest European settlement, established in 1806 after Sydney (in 1788) and Hobart (in 1803). The city is renowned for its well preserved historic buildings, artful food scene and lush countryside.

While I highly enjoyed visiting both Hobart and Launceston, and each had its own pros and cons, Launceston felt more in line with my creative travel sensibilities. The city streets were more artful, their parks lusher. The overall design seemed to be of the utmost importance, even if a bit dated. Like other Australian cities, Launceston features a thriving coffee scene, great food, excellent hikes and an intimacy with the natural environment that you wouldn’t expect from a big city.

Access

The best way to get to Launceston is by plane. A short flight from Sydney, Melbourne, or Brisbane will land you just 15 minutes outside the city’s centre. While renting a car is advisable to see the rest of Tasmania, we didn’t find that one was necessary at all for our time inside the confines of Launceston’s city centre and outer boroughs.

Best Time to Visit

Launceston and Tasmania, in general, is noticeably colder than the rest of Australia. Don’t come here without checking the weather! We saw a few people step off the plane in shorts and t-shirts in a climate that was more suitable for a winter coat.

From November to March are the best months to travel when the weather is at its most enjoyable. June, July and August are relatively chilly and rainy. Still, the prices of hotels are significantly discounted, and the city is almost empty! Summer is the peak travel season when you’ll find the hotels to be the priciest.

Whereas international travellers might not find their way to Tasmania, local Australians have been frequenting the island more and more, so be sure to check the dates of any Australia holidays or school breaks as these times may also be much busier and more expensive.

What to Pack?

As mentioned above, you might be surprised to see how different the weather is here compared to Australia’s arid deserts and beachy coasts. So much of Tasmania is made up of cool temperate rainforests. In addition to your regular travel essentials, there are a few critical items to bring to Launceston and Tasmania. It’s crucial to pack lots of layers that will help you keep warm in the morning, but which you can shed after a few hours of hiking which warms you right up!

It’s also essential to pack a good raincoat or waterproof windbreaker, which can be super useful since rain is a frequent visitor to Tasmania’s forecasts. The rainforests can get pretty wet. Umbrellas are also a good thing to pack in your bag for extra protection.

Where to Stay

When planning my stay in Launceston, I was so excited to find that almost every single home and hotel listed on Tripadvisor was over 4-stars. This meant that you could throw a dart and end up at a fantastic hotel. Everyone we met was so happy to see us, so proud of their city and more than willing to help us out in any way they could. Whether it was picking us up from the airport or showing us around town, Launceston’s residence were always going over and above our expectations.

Launceston Backpackers

We stayed at the Launceston Backpackers, a lovely old house renovated to hold guests. It felt more like staying in someone’s cottage rather than a hotel. I loved the architecture, the stained glass, the old furniture, pretty much everything. It was super affordable and right in the centre of town meaning we could easily walk from place to place without ever having to get on a bus or rent a car.

Price: $47 USD/night

Kurrajong House

Kurrajong House offers accommodation to adult-only guests who enjoy a quiet and tranquil stay. The house is a heritage property that has been lovingly restored. You can choose to stay in either their Heritage guest rooms within the main house or one of two courtyard rooms that overlook their small garden. They are located in Launceston’s luxury end and a short 5-minute walk to the city.

Price: $108 USD/night 

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Hatherley Birrell Collection

Hatherley Birrell Collection is a boutique hotel offering a high-end experience with some of the most exceptionally stylish rooms. With four unique spaces to stay in Hatherley Birrell Collection leaves your soul enriched and your creativity inspired during your stay in Launceston!

Price: $170 USD/night

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I’m back in Tasmania, first stop Launceston and the east coast (where I grew up). Next time you’re in Tas or plan a special trip, do yourself a favour and check in at @hatherleybirrellcollection (^ is part of their property) – my aunty and uncle have worked on every detail of their unreal boutique B&B #hatherleybirrellcollection #spring #time #boutique #art #north #tasmania

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What to do in Launceston

1. Sweetbrew 

The first thing to do in the morning is to grab yourself a cup of coffee! Australia is known for its incredible coffee culture, and Tasmania is no different. Sweetbrew is a local hangout for hipsters and tourists alike. Every coffee is perfectly crafted, and their summer berry cake is something I’ll remember forever!

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2. Eat the Day Away at the Harvest Farmer’s Market

For breakfast, head on down to the Harvest Saturday Farmers Market. Stock up on some doughnuts from @sandyssourdough and if you’re craving something savoury, hit up a gluten-free breakfast bowl from @mountgnomonfarm.

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Don’t leave without a bottle or two of manuka honey from Tasmania, something which is sure to cure what ails you. Even if you don’t have a kitchen at your hotel, this is the best place to load up on cheese, freshly cured meats, hot-smoked salmon, fresh berries and fruits and hot from the oven bread. This all makes for a super simple picnic luncheon to enjoy later on in the day.

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3. Explore Cataract Gorge

And where to eat your picnic lunch, you may ask? There’s no better place than Cataract Gorge! Cataract Gorge is a stunning park in the centre of Launceston. To get to the gorge, you begin by walking along a scenic pathway, called the King’s Bridge-Cataract Walk. This leads you around the South Esk River’s edge to the northern part of the gorge’s basin. From here, you can walk across the Alexandra Suspension Bridge. On the other side of the bridge, you’ll find a large swimming pool to be enjoyed in the summer months.

4. Get up High on the Gorge Scenic Chairlift

I found the best part of our visit to the gorge was getting to ride the antique chairlift! The chairlift, built in 1972, and is still the longest single-span lift in the world! We were one of the only people in the park during our visit and figured the lift wouldn’t be open. But to our surprise, a quiet old woman was sitting at the desk to welcome us in and let us ride. It felt almost strange like they had kept it open just for us. We giggled the entire way across the gorge, swinging our feet, nervously laughing as the chairlift climbed higher and higher. The chairlift covers 457 metres and moves pretty slowly for you to really take in the scenery around you.

When you get off the chairlift, you can explore the landscaped Victorian garden and small cottage restaurant on the other side of the basin. You’ll find unusual Tasmanian flora and fauna, including ferns, exotic plants, and even wild peacocks.

The trip costs $9 USD for a one-way ticket or $12 USD for an “Across & Back” ticket. We opted for the one-way sine we enjoyed the walk back to the entrance. The lift is open every day from 9am, 365 days a year! In the winter it closes at 4:30 pm, in the Spring and Autumn it closes at 5 pm and in Summer from 5:30 pm to 6 pm.

5. Wonder at the Works inside Queen Victoria Museum & Art Gallery

If you’re visiting Launceston, you should take some time to admire some local and National Australian art. I found that Australia has such a distinct fine art style and something completely unique compared to European or even American art. My favourite part of this museum was the Tasmanian art collection from the colonial era to the present day. Their gallery even has a focus on Tasmania’s convict history and the strange and powerful art produced by the prisoners.

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6. Discover the old Craftsmanship inside the Old Umbrella Shop

Launceston’s historic streets look as though they have been preserved in amber from the late 19th century. While other Australian cities, even in Tasmania, have moved along with modernization, Launceston captures the looks and feel of Australias at the turn of the century. One of the oldest shops which is still up and running is the Old Umbrella Shop. Three generations of the same family have produced and repaired umbrellas in this shop since 1860. The umbrellas here are even crafted from local Tasmanian wood. The historic signage out front is the same as it was in the mid-Victorian era. Giving you a glimpse of what this entire street once might have looked like.

7. Indulge in Fine Dining at Stillwater

For one of the best meals, you’ll have on your entire trip, be sure to book reservations in advance at Stillwater Restaurant. Stillwater is located inside a beautifully restored 1830s flour mill. If you’re lucky enough to get a seat with a view, you can soak in the stunning landscape of the Tamar River while you dine.

Stillwater prides itself on focusing on local food, grown by producers all across Tasmania. Their seafood options are my absolutely favourite dishes but their menu changes so often I can’t recommend one in particular. Whatever you choose, you can’t go wrong. Their wine bar is also stacked with Australian wines, which we know, are some of the best producers of wine world-wide. So relax and indulge in some fine dining!

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8. Go Back in Time inside Franklin House

Franklin House gives visitors a glimpse into what life was like for the new colony of Launceston in 1838. It’s Tasmania’s oldest house museum, which has been restored to its original appearance. The house was first built for businessman, Britton Jones. Jones himself was an ex-convict who managed to escape the system and make a new life for himself and his family. It was so exciting to explore the home and discover the original furniture and decor. This allowed us to imagine how all the home here would have looked in years past, like stepping back in time.

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First National Trust house in Tasmania, giving a glimpse of how some lived in early days.

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9. Sip on Aged Ales at James Boag Brewery Experience

Tasmania’s most famous beer is the Boags beer, which is sold worldwide but highly regarded in Launceston where the brewery is located. On the Brewery Tour experience, you’ll learn all about what makes their beer unique, see how its made and learn about the history of this Tasmanian Brewery.

At the end of the tour, you’ll be invited into their bar where you’ll receive a 30-minute guided beer tasting! Here you’ll be able to taste a flight of their brews paired with locally produced cheese! I’ve been to many a beer tasting but never one which included cheese, so that captured my attention straight away (I’m a HUGE cheese lover) and I did think it really gave an interesting spin on the tasting.

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10. Get Spooked on Launceston City Ghost Tours

Ok, now I know ghost tours might seem like something kinda cheesy, but I LOVE them. To me, they are just like a history tour but with a slightly macabre angle. Launceston has a deep and dark convict past. It’s said that some of the prisoners who were sentenced here can still be seen roaming the streets, their ghosts clinging to the mortal world. Walking the old streets of Launceston, your guide will tell tales of the past, making the city’s history come alive. There is both an adult-only and family-friendly option, so there is something for all ages! Obviousy the family-friendly tour is a little less scary so if you spook easily that might be the tour for you.

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11. Wander down Memory Lane on a Self Guided History Walk

Launceston has some of the best colonial and Victorian architecture anywhere in Australia. Cameron street alone perfectly exemplifies what the rest of Australia would have looked like during the boom times of the 19th century. You can do your own self-guided walking tour from Albert Hall in the east to the Queen Victoria Museum and Art Gallery in the west. This tour focuses on specific buildings along the route that tell rich tales of the city’s architectural and social history. There are little plaques along the way to help inform you of the stories as you go. And it’s a great way to explore the city on foot.