Tours - The Creative Adventurer https://thecreativeadventurer.com A Travel Guide for Exploring the World Tue, 07 Feb 2023 20:35:57 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.9.4 https://i0.wp.com/thecreativeadventurer.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/cropped-NewCreativeAdventurerLogo_250x250_v1.png?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 Tours - The Creative Adventurer https://thecreativeadventurer.com 32 32 171399271 The Ultimate Free Self-Guided Walking Tour of Malá Strana, Prague https://thecreativeadventurer.com/explore-pragues-little-quarter-a-self-guided-walking-tour-of-mala-strana/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=explore-pragues-little-quarter-a-self-guided-walking-tour-of-mala-strana https://thecreativeadventurer.com/explore-pragues-little-quarter-a-self-guided-walking-tour-of-mala-strana/#respond Wed, 28 Aug 2019 19:20:00 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//dont-skip-this-walking-tour-of-pragues-secret-lesser-quarter-mala-strana/ One of my favourite parts of Prague was Malá Strana, or "Lesser Quarter". Mala Strana itself is divided between the lower and upper halves of the hill. The upper half consists of Prague Castle, which is where the majority of tourists flock, with good reason, but the rest of Lower Town has a more subdued vibe. With less big-ticket attractions, you'll find that there are slightly fewer tourists along these streets. But this area is still filled with historic Burgher houses, astonishing churches and adorable cafes and restaurants.

The post The Ultimate Free Self-Guided Walking Tour of Malá Strana, Prague first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> With news of obnoxious tourists overtaking the city of Prague, a lot of us who prefer a more intimate, less crowded vacation will be taking Prague off our list. And I can understand this; the tourist crowds were one of the reasons I avoided this city for as long as I did. I knew how beautiful it was supposed to be, with some of the most incredible baroque architecture to be found all over Europe, and yet I always hesitated to book.

Exploring a city at the crack of dawn, before a sole other than myself hits the streets, is one of my favourite things to do. What can I say? I’m an introvert. But once I finally decided to see Prague for myself, I found sneaky little ways of avoiding the hordes of tourists. I found that most of the group tours just stuck to certain areas and it was easy to find peaceful promenades just a block over. I also just accepted that they, just like myself, were here to savour this awe-inspiring city. (Except for those who come here solely for the cheap beer and sloppy parties, they’re a breed all on their own.)

Instead of avoiding the town altogether, it was merely a matter of heading off the tourist track and discovering a hidden Prague for myself, and I wanted to share one of my favourite off-typical tourist track guides with you!

The Lesser Quarter

One of my most cherished neighbourhoods in Prague was Malá Strana, which translates into “the Lesser Quarter.” Malá Strana is divided between the lower and upper halves of the western hillside, opposite the Vltava River. The upper half consists mainly of Prague Castle, where most tourists flock (with good reason), but the rest of the Lesser Town has a more subdued vibe. With fewer big-ticket attractions, you’ll find slightly fewer tourists along these streets. But you’ll still discover streets lined with historic Burgher houses, astonishing churches and adorable cafes and restaurants.


Table Of Contents
  1. The Lesser Quarter
  2. How Long does this Walking Tour Take?
  3. When to go?
  4. Access
  5. History
  6. Starting Point: Legions Bridge
  7. Kampa Island
  8. The Devils Inlet
  9. Liechtenstein Palace
  10. Love Lock Bridge
  11. The Lennon Wall
  12. Květinářství U Červeného Lva
  13. Lesser Town Bridge Tower
  14. Míšeňská
  15. Café Club Míšeňská
  16. Shakespeare a synové
  17. Narrowest Street in Prague
  18. Vojan Park 
  19. St. Joseph Church
  20. St. Thomas Church
  21. Velikovský house
  22. Malostranské náměstí
  23. The Lower Square
  24. The Upper Square
  25. St. Nicholas Church
  26. Fragnerova Pharmacy
  27. Nerudova Street
  28. Gingerbread Museum
  29. Prague Chocolate Bistro
  30. Jan Neruda Dedication
  31. AMI Marionettes
  32. Baráčnická rychta
  33. Prague Castle View
  34. Happy Travels Adventurers!

How Long does this Walking Tour Take?

If you choose to go inside the various buildings we pass along the way and stop for a coffee or a meal, I would save half a day for the tour to take it at a comfortable pace. This tour pairs perfectly with the Prague Castle Tour since both can be found in the western half of Prague.

When to go?

Since we are trying to stay off the extremely busy pathways, you can take this tour any time. If you’re looking for it to be very empty, try to go early in the morning and or late in the afternoon or evening. Nothing compares to the sunrise and sunset across the Vltava river.

Access

Our tour begins on Legions Bridge. To reach this bridge by public transport, you can take trams; 2, 3, 13, 14, 17 or 18 to the Národní Divadlo stop. No matter where you’re coming from in the city, this place is relatively easy to reach on the tram since there are so many stops nearby. Everything in Prague is also very walkable, and from the Old Town, the bridge is only 15 minutes away.

History

Malá Strana, or “Lesser Quarter,” was established by King Ottokar II of Bohemia in 1257. He divided the city into two halves, separated by the river and the Charles Bridge. The right side of town was the centre of the bourgeois, native Czech population. The left bank, however, was made up of many more German and Italian citizens, along with the most opulent noble palaces.

The king brought German craftsmen to help establish his city as having some of the finest craftsmen in Europe. In 1541 the town suffered massive damages due to fires set by invading armies. When it was rebuilt, Baroque architecture was the dominant style, and to this day, we can still explore the pastel-coloured burgher houses and ornate facades that Prague’s baroque movement was so iconic for. As you walk through the town, down quaint side streets and ancient alleyways, you feel you’ve been transported through time.

Starting Point: Legions Bridge

While most tours of the Malá Strana might start you off entering via the grand gates on the Charles Bridge, I would advise taking the back entrance into town instead. Legions Bridge allows you access to Lesser Town without fighting through a crush of people. The views from the Legions Bridge across to the Charles Bridge and Prague Castle are also incredible! If you’re ever interested in taking a paddle boat out on the river you can watch other happy paddlers out on the waterways enjoying the views and a bit of sunshine.

Kampa Island

Across the bridge, just to the left, as you arrive, you’ll find Kampa Island. This little island is a peaceful, green retreat where you’ll find lots of local Czech families enjoying some time outdoors. This island was originally man-made, constructed in the 12th century, and once used mainly as a place where women could wash and bleach linen by the river. Today, the island is also home to the Kampa Modern Art Museum, littered with modernist sculptures. Some of the most intriguing is the giant bronze babies who crawl along the grounds of the island, somewhat creepy but definitely interesting.

The Devils Inlet

To the island’s west is a small stream from the river Vltava. This charming waterway has a rather nefarious name. They call it ‘Čertovka,’ which in English means “the Devil’s Inlet.” The name is supposedly derived from a nearby house called ‘U semi čertů‘ or “at the Seven Devils.” Along the Čertovka you’ll find remnants of old medieval mills which used the canal as their primary form of power in the 12th century. The Grand Priory Mill or ‘Velkopřevorský Mlýn‘ is the most famous and iconic of these. Today, the mill has been renovated into an upscale (rather meh) restaurant but still has the original waterwheel outside on display. I’ve marked it on the map so you can look closer as you pass it.

IF Café

Just across from the Čertovka, you’ll find IF Café. This cafe is the perfect place to grab a bit of breakfast or just a cup of coffee. If you haven’t had the chance to fuel up for the rest of the tour, this is a great opportunity. This restaurant serves fantastic coffee and is always surprisingly quiet for being close to a tourist mecca. Whether you’re here for breakfast or lunch, this place has dishes which will make you drool! And the best part is the pastries! They look like works of art or blooming flowers sitting quietly inside their glass case ready to be devoured.

Liechtenstein Palace

Just on the other side of the road from the cafe is Liechtenstein Palace. This cream-coloured, old Palace, built in the 16th century, was Prague’s most extensive baroque construction. And while the exterior might look sweet and simple, this place is known as home to one of the cruellest and most ruthless men in Prague’s history, the “Bloody vice-regent” Lichtenstein. He is known as the “bloody regent” due to his murderous rule, where he ordered the deaths of 27 leaders of the Hussite rebellions in 1621. The leaders were beheaded in Old Town square despite dozens of relatives who begged the Regent to spare their lives. Today, 27 cast-iron heads are mounted as pseudo gargoyles along the front of the Palace to commemorate the event.

Love Lock Bridge

Continue walking along Hroznová street until you reach the Grand Priory Mill, as mentioned above. A small bridge juts out over the Čertovka, where you can look across the stream to the adorable houses facing the waterway. The wrought iron fencing that protects visitors from falling into the river has become a strange tourist attraction. A popular trend across Europe popped up in the mid-2000s where lovers would swear their eternal fidelity to each other by leaving a padlock with their initials on the bridge and throwing the key in the water below. 

While this might seem romantic, sealing your love into your favourite location on your travels, the reality is much different. These locks have severely damaged many historic bridges since they were never built to support such weight. Cities have now begun to cut them down to save the integrity of the bridges. So while you might think this is a cute idea, think twice before leaving your love lock here. You might find it to be cut down the next day…which is a must less romantic metaphor.

The Lennon Wall

Across the bridge and along Velkopřevorské náměstí you’ll find the famous Lennon Wall. The Lennon Wall is a favourite spot for tourists and locals alike. Since the 1980s, people have been visiting this wall and covering it with graffiti relating to John Lennon and the Beatles. It represents all of John Lennon’s ideals: peace, love and equality. The origins of the first piece of graffiti are unknown, but it seemed to have caught on like wildfire.

In addition to Lennon-inspired graffiti, in 1988, the wall became a place where young Czechs could air their grievances about the communist regime. Whenever local authorities would paint over the graffiti, the next day, it would be covered up once more in poems and paintings. Eventually, they just stopped trying and accepted it as modern art so long as they didn’t deface any other surrounding buildings. If you have a pen, or even some paint, feel free to leave your mark here along with the others!

Květinářství U Červeného Lva

Keep walking north along Lázeňská and turn right along Saská lane. The houses and building along this short route are some of the most beautiful examples of everyday baroque architecture. These aren’t palaces or noble estates, just mundane buildings built within the Baroque era. These lanes are almost empty, even though you’ll be able to hear the hustle and bustle of tourists just up ahead. Hidden down here, just steps from the famous Charles Bridge, is one of the oldest and most beautiful flower shops, Květinářství U Červeného Lva. Flowers are literally pouring out the door! Even if you can’t buy flowers for yourself, just looking at this shop in this quiet lane feels like discovering a secret garden!

Lesser Town Bridge Tower

Keep walking along Saská lane until you reach a set of stairs on your left, leading you up to the end of the Charles Bridge, where you’ll find the Lesser Town Bridge Towers. This lofty structure with the wide arched gateway is flanked on either side by two enormous towers of differing heights. The non-uniformity of these towers always bothered me (I’m someone who likes symmetry), but I’ve found the oddity quite charming over time.

Judith’s Tower

The lower tower is called Judith’s Tower. It was built in the Romanesque style in the 12th century and once connected the old bridge from Mala Strana to Old Town before the Charles Bridge was built. In 1591 the bridge tower was renovated in the new Renaissance style and decorated with ornate gables, and the trendiest art form of the time: sgraffito. Sgraffito is a form of decoration made by scratching through a surface to reveal a lower layer of a contrasting colour, typically done in plaster or stucco.

Higher Tower

The second tower is aptly named the Higher Tower. It was built in the high Gothic style as a pair to the Charles Bridge’s Tower of Parler, located on the other side. At the peak of the arched gateway, you’ll see various symbols of Prague. There are the emblems with the imperial eagle, the Czech lion and the symbol of Upper Lusatia; below them are the emblems of the Old Town and the Lesser Town.

Míšeňská

Instead of heading straight through the main gates where the influx of crowds can be found, we’re going to enter around the northern side. While this gateway is lovely, the immediate area opposite the gate is packed with tourists and best avoided. Just north of the gates, walk up Dražického nám and turn right along Míšeňská Street. Míšeňská Street is one of the best-preserved Baroque streets in Prague.

Because it doesn’t boast huge attractions, you’ll still find it a quiet little place to explore. Before there were street numbers in Prague, houses were distinguished by a crest above the doorway. These could be family crests or correspond to the kind of businesses which operated inside. Stop by Míšeňská #3, which was once the ‘Queen of the Bees’ house marked by a flag of honeycomb and bees. Míšeňská #10 is marked with an old fresco of a lamb, and opposite this, #7 is marked with a wrought iron rooster.

Café Club Míšeňská

Café Club Míšeňská is another famous espresso bar which boasts some of the best coffee in the city inside an old 18-century house. If you didn’t grab something to drink or a snack beforehand, this is another delightful spot to sit and enjoy a bit of quiet. The decor inside is a blend of restrained modernism and antique nostalgia.

Shakespeare a synové

As you exit Míšeňská Street and hit U Lužického semináře, you’ll find the tiny little shop with the name ‘Shakespeare a synové’ above the entrance. This is one of the city’s most intriguing bookshops, which carries both new and used Czech, English, French & other foreign language books. There are some real rarities here, and while the books might be a bit pricey, it’s still worth poking your head inside to explore. The tiny shop is spread over two floors and has various couches and chairs for people to sit and peruse any books of interest before buying. It’s a great spot to warm up or cool down if you need a short rest from the walk.

Narrowest Street in Prague

Keep walking north along U Lužického semináře until you reach the Restaurant Čertovka. Just beside this restaurant is one of the strangest and most hidden spots in Mala Strana. Here you can find the narrowest street in Prague! From U Lužického semináře, this extremely narrow lane leads back to a restaurant garden. The path is so skinny that a traffic light had to be installed to ensure no two people went at the same time from either direction, in case they got stuck! You can easily walk down it yourself even if you’re not visiting the restaurant, just ensure you click the walk button and obey the signs.

Vojan Park 

Across the street from the restaurant, along the west side of U Lužického semináře, you’ll find a long white wall which hides a valuable secret. After walking north along the wall for about a block and a half, you’ll come to a small archway which provides an entrance inside. The exterior wall is bland and usually covered in unappealing tags and graffiti. But as you make your way to the gate, you’ll be in awe of the greenery to be found inside. 

Vojan Park, the oldest park in Prague, was initially built-in 1300. In the 17th century, the Convent of Barefooted Carmelites was constructed beside the park, and their order took it upon themselves to care for the gardens and enhance their beauty. Especially in the summer when the cherry blossoms bloom, this park is absolutely magical. Be sure to keep your eyes peeled for the various peacocks which roam the grounds as they are a sight to behold!

St. Joseph Church

Exit the park where you entered and continue along U Lužického semináře. Walk until you reach Letenská street, where you’ll turn left and walk along the road westwards until you reach St. Joseph Church. While the buildings along this stretch aren’t of particular note, you have a great opportunity to get some fantastic snaps of the old Prague trams that run up and down this street. St. Joseph Church is a narrow, little building piled up with some of the most exquisite Baroque ornamentations. While the interior is a bit lacklustre, the exterior is a real feast for the eyes.

St. Thomas Church

Across the street from St. Joseph Church in St. Thomas Church. This church is the opposite of the one previous. The exterior is a bit of a jumble of everyday styles. But inside, you’ll be awed at fantastical ceiling frescos, elaborately carved wooden chapels and stunning multilayered altarpieces. The church was originally founded by the order of Augustinian Hermits by Wenceslas II in 1285. The church was decorated in high Gothic style by some of the most prominent Czech artists of the time and today is still one of the best examples of Czech art and architecture.

Velikovský house

Down the street from St. Thomas Church is the Velikovský house, found at Malá Strana No. 518. The famous townhouse has stood on this spot for over 600 years in one form or another. It was rebuilt and renovated due to fires and changing architectural styles. Study the corner turret, decorated with sgraffito from sculptor Celestyn Kloucek which dates back to 1899. On the southern facade, facing the Malostranské náměstí is an old sundial from 1608. It was discovered hidden under a new layer of plaster during one of the renovations. Historians carefully uncovered it; today, it is a stunning example of how Czechs used to tell time. They used a unique method that counted the hours that had passed since sunset instead of the 24-hour clock we have today.

 

 
 
 
 
 
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Malostranské náměstí

Now, after a roundabout route, we find ourselves in the main square of Prague’s Malá Strana. St. Nicholas Church stands domineering over the square and separates it into two distinct spaces; the upper (western) and lower (eastern) squares. While the jolly food vendors and antique trams with charming church bells ringing in the distance might seem like an idyllic scene, this square hides a darker history. It was once the spot where the gallows and pillory were located throughout many different eras of Prague’s judicial history. Townspeople would gather here to view public executions and cruel medieval punishments. The only sign of such dark histories is the rather tacky “torture museum” signage plastered all over the ancient facades.

The Lower Square

The lower square is where you’ll find the tram stop for Mala Strana, surrounded by pretty palace façades. This was originally where the nobility of Prague’s elite would live, close to the Palace without being inside its gates. Many of these buildings are now tourist trap restaurants, but luckily the high prices have meant they can maintain the original architecture and appearance of these historic estates.

The Upper Square

The upper part of the square is called ‘Vlašský place‘ as ‘Vlacks’ or Italians once lived solely in this area and would come into the square daily to sell their products and goods. In the upper square, we also find the soaring Plague Column commemorating the Czech people’s survival after the great plague of 1713. The column features sculptures of the Virgin Mary surrounded by Czech saints designed by sculptors Jan Oldřich Mayer and F. Geiger.

St. Nicholas Church

St. Nicholas Church stands high above Mala Strana with its three masterful copper-topped roofs. It is known across Europe as an absolute architectural marvel and one of the most exceptional examples of Prague Baroque. Where St. Vitus is an example of the most beautiful Gothic architecture, St. Nicholas provides a glimpse into opulence, which is genuine baroque.

It was built in 1704 by the father-son duo Christoph and Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer. Saint Nicholas is known as the protector of children and the patron saint of sailors. Legend says he saved three girls from being forced into sex work by dropping sacks of gold coins into their window to pay for their dowry. Other stories tell of his power to calm the oceans and save lost soldiers at sea. Many of these stories are told throughout the paintings and sculptures inside, so it’s always good to know a little bit of context for the saint the church is named after.

Interior of the Church

Stepping inside the church, you’re immediately struck by the lavish decor and open space. The dome stretches 70 meters above the church, creating a grandiose light lantern that rushes inside. There are lush decorations everywhere your head turns. Pastel frescoes cover what appears to be every inch of the walls and ceilings. The most impressive of these paintings is the one on the dome depicting the Holy Trinity by Franz Palko. But there is a real balance between heavy ornamentation and light, creating a heavenly harmony. The massive dome is encircled with windows, as are either side naves. This allows natural light to pour into the centre of the church ensuring you never feel claustrophobic or weighed down.

Mozart in Prague

One of the most impressive features of the church is the grand organ which was once played by none other than Mozart himself in 1787. The organ contains over 4,000 pipes and is an absolute marvel to hear. Be sure to check when the church holds concerts, as hearing the organ played in person is truly something otherworldly.

To get one of the most amazing views across the city, climb the 215 steps up the centre tower. You can see the Vltava River and the surrounding countryside past the city limits. During the communist era, this viewpoint was more than just a pretty sight. Spies frequently visited this spot to look down on the nearby American embassy. On your way up the tower, keep an eye out for the small cast iron urinals along the wall. These were installed to allow the spies to relieve themselves without a long journey to the ground floor.

 

 
 
 
 
 
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Fragnerova Pharmacy

Just outside St. Nicholas church on the corner of Zámecká and Nerudova street, you’ll find one of the oldest pharmacies in Prague. The Fragner Pharmacy at the Black Eagle is easily identified by the giant black eagle on the front of the shop.

While the pharmacy now sells modern-day medicine, it also has various historical items on display inside the 18th-century interior. It’s a great way to explore what old pharmacies used to be like while also picking up any medicine you might need for yourself (for me, I always need some blister band-aids for my feet after long days of walking the entire city).

Nerudova Street

Turn down Nerudova Street which is itself a tour through the eras. Nerudova is named after the writer and poet Jan Neruda. Neruda spent his life writing stories all about the “Lesser Town” and the various real-life character turned fictional in his charming short stories. While most of the historic storefronts have turned into touristy restaurants or souvenir shops, looking closely above the entrances, you can still study the historical remnants of this incredible street. Above #12, now a Chinese restaurant, you’ll see an emblem of three fiddles marking what used to be an old violin makers shop. A few doors down at #16, we see an old apothecary shop marked with a golden chalice.

Gingerbread Museum

Along Nerudova, stop in at the Gingerbread Museum. While more of a shop than a museum, it does sell superbly decorated gingerbread. There are always some gorgeous treats to behold, both for display and purchase. A monthly window display usually features gingerbread versions of the city’s iconic architecture. It’s an amusing little shop which just makes me smile, so I had to include it. And fair enough, I do love myself some gingerbread!

 

 
 
 
 
 
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Prague Chocolate Bistro

If you like a quick snack, head into the Prague Chocolate Bistro. Despite sounding like a tacky tourist trap, this little modernist cafe is known for serving up some of the most delicious chocolate treats. Their rich and slightly savoury hot chocolate is the perfect thing to not only fill you up with its rich flavour but also to keep you warm on a cold or rainy day.

 

 
 
 
 
 
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As you continue walking along with Nerudova, stop by #26 to see if you can spot the golden sparrow house or the golden wagon wheel at #26. Across the street at #27 is the golden key house. The street can get really crowded, but I found that the denser areas usually comprise just one large group. Just wait for them to go by, and the street will open back in a few minutes.

Jan Neruda Dedication

Above the house, at #45, you’ll see a beautiful bronze plaque on the facade of the building with the image of Jan Neruda carved into the bronze. It documents the author’s life and the street dedicated to him.

AMI Marionettes

As Nerudova turns into Úvoz street, stop in at AMI Marionettes. Marionettes are a very popular souvenir to be found in Prague. For many years, puppetry was considered a low form of entertainment compared to theatre or opera. They were operated by less skilled artisans. Often instead of being performed in German (which in the 17th century was the official language in Prague), they used the native Czech language. While this might seem no big deal, speaking, Czech had been outlawed! Puppetry became somewhat of a nationalist pastime, sometimes only performed in secret. In the 18th and 19th centuries, as the Czech Republic began to rebel against using the German language, the marionette became a symbol of this rebellion.

AMI Marionettes is still one of the most trustworthy names in puppetry, and all their puppets are locally produced. You’ll see marionettes all over town in cheap souvenir shops, but these are often Chinese knockoffs. Even if you’re not interested in buying one for yourself, the craftsmanship used to make these marionettes is really impressive.

Baráčnická rychta

As we are nearing the end of the tour, if you’re feeling a bit peckish, head into Baráčnická rychta. This cozy little restaurant can be found just off the famous Nerudova street. It’s incredible how you can still find a real authentic place with great prices and delicious food just steps away from tourist traps and overpriced cafes. There is even a little outdoor garden to eat in on lovely summer days, but you can dine inside their traditional Czech interior throughout the year.

 

 
 
 
 
 
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Prague Castle View

To make your way to one of the most incredible views of the city without the tourist hordes, head west across Vlašská until you reach the corner of Vyhlídka Václava Havla park. Meander down the garden pathway (as marked on the map below) towards the easternmost part. Not only do you have a view across the Vltava river, but you can also see the rooftops of Prague Castle off in the distance. Few other tourists were there when we visited, along with some locals walking their dogs. It was the perfect ending to a fantastic afternoon stroll.

Many people come to the Lesser Quarter solely to visit Prague Castle and miss out on the subtleties of Mala Strana. There are so many treasures to uncover! If you’re heading to Prague soon, let me know if you have any questions. And if you’ve travelled to Mala Strana before, let me know what your favourite sight was in the comments!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Free Self-Guided Walking Tour of Malá Strana, Prague first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/explore-pragues-little-quarter-a-self-guided-walking-tour-of-mala-strana/feed/ 0 609 The Best Visitor’s Guide to Budapest’s Stunning Hungarian Parliament Building https://thecreativeadventurer.com/the-best-visitors-guide-to-budapests-stunning-hungarian-parliament-building/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=the-best-visitors-guide-to-budapests-stunning-hungarian-parliament-building https://thecreativeadventurer.com/the-best-visitors-guide-to-budapests-stunning-hungarian-parliament-building/#respond Thu, 18 Apr 2019 20:48:20 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//the-best-visitors-guide-to-budapests-stunning-hungarian-parliament-building/ Anyone who hears the word "Budapest" will most likely immediately think of their iconic Parliament Building. The Hungarian Parliament Building is one of the most recognisable images of Hungary and a symbol of the country's talented artists who helped achieve this vision of architectural magnificence. Standing on the banks of the Danube, it flanks the city and greets visitors floating down the river with its bright white columns and staggering silhouette.

The post The Best Visitor’s Guide to Budapest’s Stunning Hungarian Parliament Building first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> Anyone who thinks of Budapest will most likely immediately picture their iconic Parliament Building. The Hungarian Parliament Building is one of the most recognizable images of Hungary and a symbol of the country’s talented artists who helped achieve this vision of architectural magnificence. Standing on the banks of the Danube, it flanks the city and greets visitors floating down the river with its bright white columns and staggering silhouette.

Table Of Contents
  1. Access
  2. Tickets
  3. A Brief History of the Hungarian Parliament
  4. Parliament by the Numbers
  5. Where to Get the Best View
  6. Architectural Design
  7. Interior Tour
  8. Hungarian Crown Jewels

Access

You can take the subway to Kossuth Tér station on the M2 metro line to reach the Parliament Building. If you prefer to travel on the tram, you can also take Line 2 to Kossuth Lajos Square Station. The buildings are open from 8 am to 6 pm from April to October and 8 am to 4 pm from November to March. There are certain times when Parliament is meeting, and entry is unavailable during those days. Check the website before you arrive to see if there are any blackout dates during your visit. 

Tickets

Since the parliament buildings are one of the most popular attractions in Budapest, it is highly advisable to buy your tickets in advance. Tickets can be purchased online; trust me, you’ll be happy you don’t have to waste your time waiting on your vacation by doing it this way. Adult tickets for non-EU citizens cost 10,000 Ff ($27 US) and European Citizens can buy a discounted ticket for 5,000 Ft ($14 USD.)

A Brief History of the Hungarian Parliament

The Parliament building was built in 1896. It was made after the unification of the three cities which would eventually make up modern-day Budapest. A nationwide design competition was held to find a concept widely loved. Not just by the government but by the public as well. It was important to the committee that the building was designed from the start by a Hungarian. A native who could embed their nation’s values, history, art and cultures into one building. In the end, Hungarian architect Imre Steindl’s Gothic Revival design won the competition and construction on the new Parliament could finally begin.

Interestingly, second and third-place designs were honoured by being built, just not as Parliament. They were actualized, albeit on a smaller scale, across from the Parliament Building and served as the headquarters for the Ministry of Agriculture and the Museum of Ethnography. All three buildings in these small areas are a real treat, and you can decide for yourself if the committee made the right choice.

Parliament by the Numbers

The Hungarian Parliament Building is the world’s third-largest parliament building, measuring 258 meters long and 123 meters wide. Its interior includes 691 rooms, 200 offices, ten courtyards, 27 gates, 29 sets of staircases and 13 passengers and two freight elevators. The building is 96 meters tall, and after its construction, a law was written that no other building in the city is allowed to be taller than the Parliament building. This ensures that the spires of Parliament can be seen from all across the city.

Where to Get the Best View

The best place to see the Parliament building for the first time is from across the Danube river. Standing in a place like Batthyány Square, you can easily see the entirety of the building. From afar, you can better appreciate the harmony and power such a domineering structure can evoke. From the other side of the Danube, you’ll be able to study the symmetrical nature of the construction. Either side of the upper and lower houses are perfect copies of each other. This reflects the equality between the two houses of Parliament. In the centre is a large, commanding, Neo-Renaissance dome, signifying the unity created when combining both sides of the legislature.

Architectural Design

Over 100,000 people were employed to construct the Parliament Buildings. No expense was spared in the production. One of the most essential things to designer Imre Steindl was to ensure the construction used elements of the Carpathian Basin in its structure. There were over 40 million bricks made from Hungarian materials. Half a million precious stones were harvested from around the country to be used in the decorations. 40 kilograms of gold were added throughout to give the building a sense of opulence and grandiosity. Steindl used local artisans to create the thousands of sculptures, frescos and ironwork that make this building so absolutely covered from floor to ceiling in art.

Gothic Revival

The design of the building is anchored in the Gothic Revival movement, which takes elements from classical Gothic designs but blends in details of the Renaissance and the Baroque. The gothic Revival is an architectural movement that began in the late 1740s in England. The style features characteristics including; decorative patterns, finials, scalloping, lancet windows and hood mouldings. While the facade and ornamentation may be neo-gothic, the floor plan is distinctly baroque, and the embellishments on the ceilings inside are stylistic elements drawn from the Renaissance. It’s fantastic to see a building not stuck inside just one style. It breaks free from linear standards and feels like a love story to architecture itself.

Because of modern-day pollution, the porous limestone walls cover to surround the facade of the building regularly require cleaning. Don’t be surprised if you see scaffolding around Parliament when you visit.

Exterior Statues

To the east, even from across the river, you can see a large group of statues which make up the Kossuth Memorial. Created in 1956, the dramatic sculpture surrounds a large column where Lajos Kossuth stands. Lajos Kossuth was a freedom fighter and influenced the creation of democracy in Europe.

Count István Tisza

On the north side of the building, you’ll find the statue of Count István Tisza. István Tisza was a Hungarian politician, prime minister, political scientist, international lawyer, macroeconomist, and member of the Hungarian Academy of Sciences. He really did it all! Tisza was one of the most influential politicians who supported Austria-Hungary’s dual monarchy but was eventually assassinated during the Aster Revolution.

Attila Józsefa

Along the edge of the river, sitting frozen in place, is a statue of Attila József. His poem By the Danube is reflected here in his pose: 

As I sat on the bottom step of the wharf,
A melon-rind flowed by with the current;
Wrapped in my fate, I hardly heard the chatter
Of the surface, while the deep was silent.
As if my own heart had opened its gate:
The Danube was turbulent, wise and great.

On the grassy knoll outside the front of Parliament is the triumphant equestrian statue of Francis II Rákóczi. Rákóczi was a nobleman and leader of the Hungarian uprising against the Habsburgs in 1703. He is considered even to this day as one of the greatest Hungarian national heroes.

In Memoriam

I think one of the most moving statues on the grounds is ‘In Memoriam 1956.’ This large piece of black iron might look like nothing from afar, but when you get close, you can make out bullet holes embedded in the sculpture. This is to memorialize the Hungarian Revolution of 1956. This was a nationwide revolution against the Hungarian People’s Republic and its Soviet-imposed policies. The battle lasted 18 days, and over 2,500 Hungarians and 700 Soviet troops were killed in the conflict.

The 6.5 m tall statue of Count Gyula Andrássy riding his proud horse stands on the south side of the building. Gyula Andrássy was Hungary’s prime minister between 1867-71, and he still stands guard outside Parliament today.

Interior Tour

Because both sides of the Parliament Halls are identical, one is used for the politician’s daily work and the other for guided tours. This allows you to explore everything the insiders see daily without worrying about interfering with the employees’ day-to-day activities.

The Golden Staircase

When you first go up the stairs upon entry, look up. You’ll see that the entire ceiling is coated in nothing but gold. Hence the name, The Golden Staircase. It looks like the inside of a jewellery box. From the golden staircase, you’re led down a narrower hallway. The right side of which is adorned with brilliantly coloured stained glass.

The small hallways will suddenly open up, and you’ll find yourself standing in The Grand Stairway. Along the sides of the staircase are huge Corinthian columns, each carved in exotic burgundy granite. They are capped with intricate gilded embellishments and spread out into fantastically painted arches covered in gold. There’s a lot of gold in here, that’s for sure. There is something about seeing all this grandeur in a place of government; it really does give you the sense that these people were very passionate about politics.

Károly Lotz

Take a 360-degree spin around, and be sure to take a look up at the fresco on the ceiling. These incredible frescos were painted by Károly Lotz, a famous German-Hungarian painter. These three depictions are allegorical and symbolic of the government’s actions and effects on the country.

The stained glass throughout the building creates little vignettes of magic when the light pours through. Created by artist Miksa Róth, the windows represent family crests of iconic Hungarian royal families. Others designs are merely decorative, using traditional Hungarian patterns. But most impressive are the glassworks that look like embroidered drapery yet forged in the glass.

The Dome Hall

The next stop on your tour is Dome Hall. Entering the hall makes you feel as though you are entering a Cathedral. The soaring dome and adornments throughout are as glorious as it comes. There are 16 points in this room, each of whose corners reach up to the top of the dome, creating an immense sensation of openness and grandiosity.

See if you can count all 242 sculptures surrounding the dome’s corners. Each portrays a different Hungarian ruler, Transylvanian leader or famous historic military officer, carefully placed on gold pedestals. Despite their small stature, their faces are impeccably carved, and their expressions are life-like.

Hungarian Crown Jewels

One of the most precious treasures of the Parliament building is the Hungarian Crown jewels. You can see on display the Holy Crown, the orb and sceptre, and a Renaissance royal sword. The crown jewels have had a rough history as they have been lost, stolen and looted several times. After WWII, they were given over to the American army to keep them safe from the Soviet Union. They remained in Fort Knox, Kentucky, for years, and it was only in 1978 that President Jimmy Carter had them returned to the Hungarian people.

The Hungarian crown comprises two pieces of jewellery, each from an illustrious era of history. The lower portion is the original Byzantine crown, and the upper cross-shaped topper is from another crown from the medieval period. The crown was initially designed for St. Stephen for his royal coronations over 1000 years ago.

Upper House Lobby

Before entering the Upper House, you’ll be ushered into the Upper House Lobby, a long corridor with massive pillars on either side, where people gather before or after critical political meetings. The enormous turquoise carpet is one of the most exciting things in the Upper House Lobby! This carpet is hand-knotted, which would have taken artisans thousands of hours to complete all by hand. The pillars in the lobby, almost salmon pink in colour, are surrounded by statues representing Hungarian crafts and culture, which seems appropriate since the art and design that makes this building so unique is mostly due to these craftsmen and women.

Another ubiquitous piece of history is the brass cigar holders that line the window sills. Since smoking was banned inside the Chamber when smoking, politicians had to go back inside to vote on a particular bill or amendment. They didn’t want to snuff out their expensive cigars and instead would leave them in these fireproof holders so they could return to smoking after voting.

The Old Upper House

The Old Upper House is a replica of the assembly hall where the congress meets weekly, and some of the nation’s most significant decisions are made. This hall is used more for conferences and meetings than political state business. The House itself is enormous. 452 wooden seats, made from decorated Slavonian oak, are set in a semi-circle around the speaker’s chair. The seats are covered in lush red velvet, making each member feel important. Behind the speaker’s chair are magnificent paintings of Hungary’s royal families over the years.

Library of Parliament

The last thing you’ll visit on your tour is the library of Parliament. Although politicians have a private library which they use, this library is open to the public and still contains over 500,000 books and volumes. Books as old as 1580 are stored here on the shelves that reach the ceiling. Sitting inside the library, you have a stunning view across the Danube, and it’s the perfect peaceful place to end the tour.

What are your Parliament Buildings like back in your home country? Are they magnificent as this one? Let me know in the comments!

Happy Travels Adventurers

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]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/the-best-visitors-guide-to-budapests-stunning-hungarian-parliament-building/feed/ 0 224 Free Downtown Los Angeles Walking Tour of the Amazing Art Deco Streets https://thecreativeadventurer.com/self-guided-architectural-walking-tour-of-downtown-los-angeles-the-beautiful-hidden-art-deco-streets-of-california/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=self-guided-architectural-walking-tour-of-downtown-los-angeles-the-beautiful-hidden-art-deco-streets-of-california https://thecreativeadventurer.com/self-guided-architectural-walking-tour-of-downtown-los-angeles-the-beautiful-hidden-art-deco-streets-of-california/#respond Mon, 17 Dec 2018 15:42:08 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//self-guided-architectural-walking-tour-of-downtown-los-angeles-the-beautiful-hidden-art-deco-streets-of-california/ While in California, we took a brief tour of LA's historic downtown district. We were in town to see July Talk and decided to take the opportunity of being in downtown LA to see all the wonderful architecture that far too often, gets overlooked by beachy keen tourists.

The post Free Downtown Los Angeles Walking Tour of the Amazing Art Deco Streets first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> So many people only think of California as a state of beautiful beaches and equally as beautiful people. People rarely associate architecture with Los Angeles, but L.A.’s historic downtown district is full of some of the most incredible buildings in the U.S. Compared to cities like Rome or even New York, L.A.’s historic core is one of the least frequented parts of the city. And perhaps that is because so few people even know it is here. After the economic decline in the 1960s, downtown suffered a sizeable financial recession that lasted for decades, and it is now seeing a new cultural renaissance.

Table Of Contents
  1. Angel's Flight
  2. Grand Central Market
  3. Bradbury Building
  4. Alexandria Hotel
  5. Broadway-Spring Arcade Building
  6. Ninth and Broadway Building
  7. The Jewelry District
  8. PacMutual
  9. Los Angeles Library
  10. Fine Arts Building
  11. Theatre District
  12. The Los Angeles Theatre
  13. The Palace Theatre
  14. Tower Theatre
  15. Eastern Columbia Lofts
  16. Ace Hotel

Angel’s Flight

Start your walking tour at the ‘Angel’s Flight’ steps on Bunker Hill. This funicular railway brings travellers up the hill to one of the most iconic landmarks in L.A., Most notable for the many scenes filmed for the movie 500 Days of Summer.

The funicular was nicknamed “the shortest railway in the world” when it was built in 1901, and ever since, it has brought passengers a mere few meters up the steep hill from Pershing Square Metro Station to the top of Bunker Hill. From there, you have the perfect vantage point to see the tops of all the famous buildings that decorate the Los Angeles skyline.

Grand Central Market

After a short walk down from the top of Bunker Hill, stop at the Grand Central Market. The original building was a Beaux Arts beauty, but over the years, modern renovations have since changed its appearance. When you visit the market, make a point to study the 1960s tile façade and the original large, rounded archways at the entrance.

Eggslut

This little market, full of smells, sights and sounds, has been open since 1917. The market was once a meeting place for the city’s rich and the poor, and you could find everything from clothes to cabbage to goods for the home. Today, it is filled with delicious food for the everyman. As you step down the stairs in the thick of things, your senses are engulfed in the smell of slow-roasting pork, crispy tortillas and hot spices. Stop in at G&B Coffee for a dark brew, or try one of their fizzy hoppy teas for something different. Chow down on gorditas and drool-worthy tacos at Ana Maria’s. And if you’re looking for a trendy Sunday morning brunch spot, try Eggslut for their signature Eggslut sandwich, a jar-poached “coddled” egg atop potato purée.

Bradbury Building

The Bradbury Building is one of the most important architectural landmarks of the city. And while its exterior is gorgeous, it’s the interior you’ll want to ensure you see! Built in 1893, this office building is best known for the incredible skylit atrium, surrounded by gilded, ornate ironwork walkways, stairs and elevators. The building was made for gold-mining millionaire Lewis L. Bradbury and, as such, feels like it has been kissed by King Midas himself.

Alexandria Hotel

Wind your way toward the famous Alexandria Hotel. In the heyday of cinema-making of the 1900s, this monolith of Beaux-Arts architecture and glamour was built. It cost $2 million to bring the lavish designs and finishing that the New York elite was used to across the country to sunny L.A. The building’s signature griffins still stand today, looming over the street, watching passersby going about their business.

Over the years, it saw visitors from all walks of fame. From President Theodore Roosevelt to Charlie Chaplin and even Mary Pickford. But as the celebs moved out of the downtown core, the hotel lost its lustre and soon was nothing more than squatting quarters for vagrants. Now, it has a new owner, and with fresh businesses coming back downtown, it might even see a new renaissance. Its illustrious Palm Court, built in the 1960s, is still one of the most awe-inspiring interiors in L.A. The ceiling is an enormous mass of intricately designed stained glass and walking in the room, you completely feel embraced by the beautiful coloured scene painted with glass above you.

Broadway-Spring Arcade Building

As you walk down South Spring Street, you come upon a giant slate-coloured building with tiny, uniform windows that cover its facade. Looking like a massive brick honeycomb. This is, of course, the Broadway-Spring Arcade Building. The building is connected by a stunning skylit and a three-storey arcade.

Walking through the arches, you’re met with a splendid gallery of little, independent shops gathered below retro lights that line the gallery like little soldiers. Later on, after its initial construction, two Venetian-style bridges were added to connect the lower levels of the two buildings, creating a very European feel to space.

Ninth and Broadway Building

Just down the street, you find the Ninth and Broadway Building. Built in the 1930s, this sturdy building is a dramatic design and architecture. The most iconic detail is the two-storey tall terra cotta grapevine filigree that crawls up the front of the building. The art deco lettering that addresses the building is a charming nod to a time gone by.

But the ornamentation doesn’t stop at the front of the building. As you look up at the myriad of floors above, you’ll notice the filigree grapevine designs continuing between all the perfectly placed windows, each stamped with an abstract art deco geometric design.

The Jewelry District

The Jewelry District is a section of downtown Los Angeles where gold, diamonds and anything sparkly can be seen on display in highly curated window boxes. As you walk down the street, it seems like every other shop is a jewelry store with identical window displays and signage. Annually this district brings in just under $3 billion in jewelry alone!

The most famous of these Jewellery retail outlets is the International Jewelry Centre. This building reminds me of the train station in Melbourne, with its enormous domed roof and French Renaissance-inspired ornamentation that climbs along the columns and frames the windows.

PacMutual

Head over to the financial district and visit the PacMutual building. A set of three different buildings have been connected over the years and now make up the place we call the PacMutual building. Each structure represents a different period of architecture, yet they all seem to flow together cohesively. The first building erected in 1906 was on the corner of Sixth and Olive Street. It was designed in the Beaux Arts style with decorative arches and flowery details.

In 1921, a taller building was constructed the same way as the previous one. With more money in their pockets this time, they added Italian marble throughout the lobby and more terra cotta embellishments. The final building in this triad is a seemingly simple two-story parking garage. Where the addition of a parking lot might have been an eye sore, this architect took it upon himself to disguise it in Beaux Arts flourishes and a glamorous tiled roof.

Los Angeles Library

The last stop on tour was at the impressive Los Angeles Library. A stop-off at the library might seem like an anti-climactic visit, but it is not the case here in L.A. The library was officially named a Historic-Cultural Monument, and its importance as a place for the community is firmly evident as you walk around and watch people interact with the public space. People wander the gardens and sit quietly reading or talking on the phone on all the different benches and seating areas in the courtyard. It seems almost like a modern-day town square.

The library’s design is not of the Art Deco period or the Beaux Arts. This time, the architect went far back to get his inspiration. All the way to ancient Egypt. Egyptians were some of the finest architects. But they were a culture that respected and sought to preserve their language and historical stories.

Although not in a typical “library”, they preserved their stores right in the walls of their home in hieroglyphs. So it is no surprise that this is where the architect drew his inspiration for the library. The central part of the library looks like a squared-off pyramid with brightly coloured tiled mosaics on the roof. The suns on either side of the roof reference the “light of learning.” Along the facade are carved notable men of history. We have represented men from the arts, Science, Philosophy and more here.

Fine Arts Building

The Fine Arts Building on West 7th Street was built in 1926 and is a love story of architecture. The Romanesque Revival face featured a two-storey arch over the main entrance, intricately decorated with griffons, gargoyles and birds. The entire building is replete with ornamentation and carved figures, to the point where it feels almost more like a church than an office building. On either side of the entry arch are two reclining figures, representing Architecture and Sculpture as human beings. Be sure to step inside and admire the two-storey terracotta and tile-tiered ceiling.

Theatre District

As you finish with the business district, you turn a corner, and suddenly every other building you come across is an opulent theatre. This, of course, is the Theatre District. These gaudy and gorgeous edifices are aged to pure perfection. Their slightly tarnished and dirty facade only adds to the magical historical quality they preserve within their bones.

The Los Angeles Theatre

The Los Angeles Theatre is no doubt the most extravagant of them all. Designed by legendary theatre architect S. Charles Lee in 1931, this building stretches into the skies with European-inspired designs that make you feel like you have been transported into Paris, France. The baroque columns and sculptures that pour off the building reek of French finery. Even a sunburst motif is used throughout, inspired by Louis XIV’s castle of Versailles.

The Palace Theatre

The Palace Theatre is one of the oldest on the strip. It opened in 1911 and is one of the remaining original Orpheum theatres in the U.S. This building seems as though any minute, swarms of youthful flappers in sequined gowns might emerge from its doors. Perfectly preserved in time, you can even read the old painted advertisements still etched onto the side of the building. One can imagine that these ads would entice customers to attend the shows featuring such acts as Harry Houdini, Fred Astaire, and a young Rita Hayworth.

The mixture of Florentine architecture and retro 70’s typography, and colourful flare are wonderfully combined on the front of this theatre. Multicoloured terracotta flowers are stamped on the sides of the window frames, while gothic fairy sculptures hang off the building like whimsical gargoyles. Even the old lamps still glow and are reflected on the wet streets.

Tower Theatre

Built in 1927, the Tower Theatre is a testament to the evocative Baroque Revival style. The theatre’s exterior was even modelled after the famed Paris Opera House. Tiny star-shaped geometric designs are carved into the building’s walls, making the whole thing seem like it is floating in space. One of the Tower Theatre’s most iconic features is its giant Art Nouveau clock tower that reaches into the sky, flanked by gilded columns and framing the neon sign that flashes its name to curious passersby.

Eastern Columbia Lofts

Probably the piece-de-resistance of the entirety of downtown L.A. is the Eastern Columbia Lofts. From all the way down the street, you can see the bright, turquoise copper gleaming in the distance. On top, a giant clock and the word ‘EASTERN’ all in neon beacons you towards it. The Eastern Columbia Lofts is one of the best examples of true Art Deco architecture in the United States. Featuring all the keystones of Art Deco design, this building seems cohesive while incorporating various elements from that period. From sunburst patterns to zigzags and chevrons to simple geometric shapes and turquoise copper panels flanked in gold, every piece feels like it complements the other.

Although the building has been standing for years, its appeal is timeless. The developer, Kor Realty Group, optioned this property for condo development in 2006 and has since turned empty retail and business spaces into chic, modern condos while retaining their original appearance. One of the more curious features is the four modernized flying buttresses that flank the clock tower on the top of the building. This style, once only found in gothic architecture, was appropriated to great effect.

Ace Hotel

If you’re looking for true gothic architecture, go beyond the Ace Hotel. Originally known as the United Artists building, at 13 stories tall, it was the tallest building in Los Angeles after its completion in 1927. The building houses residential apartments and a theatre on the first floor. The terra cotta and plaster-fronted structure were dripping with Gothic influences from Spain and were inspired by the Segovia Cathedral. Its delicate tracery windows pointed arches, and highly detailed carved capitals make this building look more like a church than a commercial space. The stone spandrels that line the facade give the building the appearance of being taller than it really is, lifting its grandeur right up into the sky.

Taking a free walking tour of the Art Deco streets of downtown Los Angeles is a must-do experience for anyone who loves architecture and history. From the stunning facades to the intricate details, these buildings are a testament to the city’s rich cultural heritage.

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]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/self-guided-architectural-walking-tour-of-downtown-los-angeles-the-beautiful-hidden-art-deco-streets-of-california/feed/ 0 696 The Best Free Self-Guided Walking Tour of Salzburg, the city of the Sound of Music https://thecreativeadventurer.com/self-guided-walking-tour-of-salzburg/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=self-guided-walking-tour-of-salzburg https://thecreativeadventurer.com/self-guided-walking-tour-of-salzburg/#respond Mon, 17 Sep 2018 19:21:19 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//self-guided-walking-tour-of-salzburg/ Salzburg is not only a historical and picturesque, baroque utopia, but it was also the setting for the classic film The Sound of Music. Any place deemed charming enough to be the backdrop for such an extraordinary film is undoubtedly worth your time. Getting the chance to see the actual locations where this quintessential movie was made is a treat for cinema lovers as well as music aficionados.

The post The Best Free Self-Guided Walking Tour of Salzburg, the city of the Sound of Music first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> Salzburg is not only a historical and picturesque baroque utopia but also the setting for the classic film The Sound of Music. Any place deemed charming enough to be the backdrop for such an extraordinary film is undoubtedly worth your time. Seeing the actual locations where this quintessential movie was made is a treat for cinema lovers and music aficionados.

Table Of Contents
  1. Mirabell Gardens
  2. Zwergerlgarten
  3. Salzach River
  4. Mozartplatz
  5. Cafe Tomselli
  6. Fisch-Krieg Fish Market
  7. Balkan Grill
  8. Getreidegasse
  9. Mozart's Birthplace
  10. Franziskanerkirche
  11. St. Peter's Cemetery
  12. Hohensalzburg Castle
  13. History of the Castle
  14. Augustiner-Bräu

Mirabell Gardens

The best place to start your walking tour is in the Mirabell Gardens. Before arriving, stop by any local cafe or bakery to grab a few snacks and a hot (or cold) cup of coffee to enjoy while inside. Here, you’ll be able to sit and enjoy your Austrian breakfast in one of the most elegantly designed royal gardens in Europe. The park gates open at 8 am, so we are sure not to arrive before then. Mirabell Gardens is a serene oasis that has long been the secret gateway for the Austrian aristocracy.

The palace that served as the garden backdrop was built in 1606 for Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau. He had the heavenly white mansion designed for the love of his life, Salome. The Prince ensured the gardens were as impressive as the interiors since Salome adored being outdoors. In 1721, after a fire destroyed many buildings, Prince-Archbishop Franz Anton von Harrach had it redesigned by the famous Baroque architect Lukas von Hildebrandt who integrated all the various structures that were spread out into one self-contained complex. This allowed the gardens to surround the palace and flow alongside it like a river so that no matter where you exited, you were always greeted with lush greenery and brightly coloured flowers.

Hedge Theatre

The Mirabell Gardens are truly a preserved treasure of a bygone age. The Hedge Theater, created between 1704 and 1718, is one of the oldest hedge theatres in the northern Alps and is the same hedge theatre used in the film The Sound of Music. The Von Trapp children can be seen running through it during the “Doe A Deer” musical number. 

Zwergerlgarten

Another ancient oddity still lingers within this garden is the Zwergerlgarten, or “dwarf garden.” This small alcove is located just up the stairs from the Pegasus statue. Most visitors pass right by it but make sure you make a point to explore. Within this petite corner is a collection of exquisite, yet grotesque, figures of dwarves modelled after actual people who lived in the palace in the 17th century. Back then, it was thought to be good luck to employ a dwarf. The Archbishops of Salzburg adored them so much that he even had their likeness cast into stone. Nowadays, we might look at these statues and feel like they are slightly offensive, but at the time, they were meant to be an honour and were revered by all those who passed by them.

Flowers in the Gardens

The original landscape designer went to great lengths to create a sumptuous structure for the garden beds, which could be seen from the palace and the top of the hillside Fortress. This way, all those around Salzburg could see the greatness that was Mirabell Palace Gardens. The gardens are always changing up their flower designs and colours for guests and locals alike, so there’s consistently something new to discover.

As you circle the perimeter, you’ll notice towering white statues acting as the garden’s guardians. Sculpted by Gerard van Opstal, a skilled artist of classical mythologies from Antwerp, these glorious scenes of lust, triumph and pain, while not as proficient as some pieces from Italy’s Renaissance masters, are nonetheless wonderfully powerful works of art.

Salzach River

As you finish your tour of the Gardens, pass through the Northern Exit, which will lead you towards the Salzach River. Walk southeast along the river’s edge, where you’ll find a pretty pedestrian walkway. This little trail is a great place to admire the cake-topper, pastel baroque houses which dot the riverside. Soon, you’ll reach the Mozartsteg bridge, a great place to stop and watch tourist boat putter by, much as the salt boats would have floated up and down this same river hundreds of years ago. Salzburg’s mines were rich with salt, a hot commodity as early as the 8th century. Salt is the reason the city became wealthy, and as such, gave the town its name. Salzburg means “Salt Castle.”

Mozartplatz

After you get off the bridge, head down to the Mozartplatz or Mozart Square. Mozart Square is named after Salzburg’s most famous resident, you guessed it, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. The statue looming in the middle of the square, dedicated to the legendary composer, was unveiled on September 5, 1842, by sculptor Ludwig Schwanthaler. Although Mozart wasn’t alive to see it, his sons were present as the entire city came together to honour their father’s work. The buildings surrounding Mozartplatz are lovely examples of 16th and 18th-century architecture so take a minute to sit and admire the surroundings.

Residenceplatz

Residence Square is located nearby and comprises the New Residence of the Princes of the Salzburg, the Salzburg Cathedral, various aristocratic townhouses and a dozen famous bakeries and cafes. In the middle of the square stands the centrepiece, the enormous Italian Baroque fountain of Tommaso di Garone. It is one of the most magnificent baroque fonts in Europe. Four horses burst out of a rocky mound, rearing up their legs as water shoots from their mouths. Triton stands upon the rocks, holding up a scalloped upper basin that three dolphins balance atop.

Royal Residence

While exploring Residence Square check out the Royal Residence courtyard. Although you can also explore the interior, this might be better left for a more extended stay. From the exterior, you can still see where the Royals would have lived during their time in Salzburg and get a glimpse of their lifestyle in Austria.

Salzburg Cathedral

Next, it’s over the famous Dom zu Salzburg or Salzburg Cathedral for some spiritual awakening and awe-inspiring architecture. The first Christian church was built in here Salzburg in 774. The original foundations of that church remain here today, underneath the new DOM. When that first church was built, it was one of the largest sacred buildings in Europe. But in 842, lightning struck it and burned it to the ground. 

History of the Cathedral

In 1181 a late Romanesque structure was restored, but it was also burnt down in 1598. Some say the fire wasn’t an accident but was initiated by the then Prince-Archbishop, Wolf Dietrich, who wanted to build a new church in his preferred style. But his plans were thwarted, and Italian architect Santino Solari oversaw the current design. It was consecrated in 1628 by Archbishop Paris Count Lodron. The Salzburg Cathedral is one of Germany’s best examples of early Baroque architecture. Its imposing Untersberg marble facade is framed between two twin towers with bright green domes. Atop the towers are four statues; Peter and Paul hold a key and a sword, respectively and Salzburg’s two patron saints, Rupert and Virgil, each clasp a salt vessel (the symbol of the city) and a model of the church. 

Exterior

The church’s exterior has a huge bronze statue of the Virgin Mary, which stands outside to greet visitors. She is flanked by various other expressive characters, and her loving embrace of her son warms your soul on even the coldest day.

Interior

Three doors allow you to enter the church, each one illustrating a theme; Faith, Hope and Love. The interior of the church is both minimal and elaborate at the same time. The church’s structure is painted a soothing and peaceful shade of white. Despite the simplistic white paint, ornate stucco designs in baroque shapes are embedded onto the walls, columns, archways and ceiling. We have brightly painted frescos along the roof, their colours sharply contrasted against the white of the rest of the Cathedral.

Near the entrance is a Romanesque font where Mozart was baptized. The font is made entirely of bronze and decorated with reliefs of various biblical saints. Be sure to take a moment to study the magnificent organ. Many of Mozart’s compositions were written for this very instrument. They were initially meant to be played in this very place.

Alter Markt

Now, I bet you’re getting slightly hungry after all this walking. So it’s time to start searching for something to eat. Walk over to the Alter Markt, where you have various options. During the middle ages, farmers from all over the country would come here to sell their goods. The St. Florian Fountain in the middle of the square was built in 1488, with the Salzburg’s coat of arms emblazed. The buildings surrounding the marketplace date back to the middle ages, designed in the old burgher’s style of architecture.

Cafe Tomselli

There are many different cafes to grab a bite at, but if you have a few extra euros to spend and want an exceptional experience try Café Tomaselli. This cafe is over a hundred years old, and Mozart used to come in here to drink, of all things, almond milk. The cafe is full of history and is decorated with old paintings curated by their various owners. The stories this place could tell if only the walls could talk. But this atmosphere comes with a price. If you still want a chance to visit but are short on cash, simply order a coffee and split a simple pastry with a friend.

Fisch-Krieg Fish Market

If you decide that the Alter Market is too rich for your blood, head to Fisch-Krieg Fish Market. This adorable restaurant along the water is half fish market, half restaurant. All you need to do is pick which variety of fish you’d like, choose how you want it cooked (grilled or fried), and they will serve it up to you alongside one of their many traditional Austrian salads. All their dishes are very reasonably priced, and they have a great taste of traditional Salzburg cuisine. The shop’s interior, with its unique plastic tree growing right up through the floor, is one of those unforgettable touches that will stay in your memory forever. I cannot recommend this place more!

Balkan Grill

Lastly, if you’re looking for something really, really inexpensive that’s just as delicious as it is authentically Austrian, you have to check out the Balkan Grill. Balkan Grill is located at 33 Getreidegasse, one of the city’s most upscale neighbourhoods. They have been serving sausages in this tiny booth for over 50 years, and there is always a line-up. They only have one thing on the menu: a grilled pork sausage covered in your choice of; onions, fresh parsley, and a secret blend of spices served on a white bun with some curry mustard and ketchup. There is something about the fresh parsley that really brightens up the greasy sausage.

Getreidegasse

Once you have sated your hunger, take a few moments to explore Getreidegasse. Getreidegasse, or “grain lane,” is Salzburg’s most prestigious shopping street. It’s most recognizable for its tall and narrow houses, which seem to lean over the sidewalk below.

Ornately designed wrought iron signs hang off the sides of the buildings. These signs were wordless symbols in the middle ages to help citizens who couldn’t read find bakeries, cobblers or butcher shops. The signs have been updated with logos featuring iconic fashion brands, but they have kept up their antique look.

Mozart’s Birthplace

One building worth a second look at is #9 Getreidegasse. This is Mozart’s “Geburtshaus,” or Birthplace. Its golden yellow exterior makes it unmissable as you walk along the street. The Mozart Family lived on the third floor of the “Hagenauer House” from 1747 to 1773. Mozart spent his childhood in Salzburg, developing his incredible musical talent. Inside is a small museum which still holds many objects from the Mozart household and recreations of what the home would have looked like in the 18th century.

Franziskanerkirche

Once you’re finished exploring Getreidegasse, head north, down Wiener-Philharmoniker-Gasse to see the Franciscan Church. The FranciscOnce you’re exploring Getreidegasse, head north, down Wiener-Philharmoniker-Gasse to see the Franciscan Church. The Franciscan Church, or Franziskanerkirche, is the architectural opposite of the Salzburg DOM. Whereas the DOM is bright and white, the Franziskanerkirche is dark and GOTHIC! I love both for different reasons, and both are worth checking out.an Church or Franziskanerkirche is the architectural opposite of the Salzburg DOM. Whereas the DOM is bright and white, the Franziskanerkirche is dark and GOTHIC! I love both for different reasons, and both are worth checking out. 

History of the Franciscan Church

The first church built on these grounds was erected in the 8th century. It was frequently ravaged by fires and rebuilt time after time. The Salzburg middle class of the 15th century was reasonably well off. When their church needed renovation, they gathered up the required funds themselves. They hired the famous architect Hans von Burghausen to design a newer and more magnificent church. His work was a masterpiece of Gothic architecture. Throughout the church, you’ll find slender, dark marble columns that reach up to the sky and open into refined rib vaulting, like a pair of hands whose fingers open to the heavens.

St. Peter’s Cemetery

Continue onwards to St. Peter’s Cemetery. St. Peter’s Cemetery is the oldest in Salzburg. Looking at the gravestones, they don’t appear so ancient but take a look behind the headstones, along the rockface, to see where the real history lies. Carved into Mönchsberg are a set of caves which served as catacombs for the earliest settlers. The oldest surviving tombstones inside date back to 1288. If you decide to go inside, you can climb up the 48 steps to see the “Gertrauden Chapel,” which dates back to 1178.

Back on the ground, you can see several crypts flank the nearby church’s exterior. These elegant wrought-iron fences protect the crypts of some of Salzburg’s wealthiest families. These crypts also were the setting for one of the iconic scenes in The Sound of Music when the Von Trapp family was hiding from the Nazis during their daring escape.

Hohensalzburg Castle

To end your walking tour, head to the Mönchsberg funicular, which will take you all the way to the top of the hillside to the crowning glory of Salzburg, the Hohensalzburg Castle.

History of the Castle

The first castle built on this site was raised in 1077 and was little more than four wooden walls. It was made high up on the hills to serve as a lookout post to protect the city against Imperial troops from the Holy Roman Empire.

Over the years, towers were built, stone walls were added to fortify the castle, and the fortress grew in size. Inside the castle, the portrait gallery is the first room you’ll pass through. It’s filled with more than a dozen portraits of all the Prince whose legacy it was to grow the size and strength of this impressive Castle Fortress. Unlike many others across Europe, modernization has not touched this building. Salzburg was never subject to attack, so its historic castle was never destroyed or rebuilt. This treasure of the past is truly a unique experience to walk through.

Interior

Inside you’ll get to see some of the furnishings used by the royals who once lived within these walls. Opulent wallpaper, lush bedding and even the most ornate heaters you’ve ever seen. In addition to exploring the life of the royals, there are also various exhibits displaying the might of their army. Armour, weaponry and even medieval torture devices are displayed for viewers to discover.

After exploring the castle, take advantage of the vantage point atop the mountain and walk along the pedestrian path toward the perfect dinner destination. As day turns to dusk, you’ll have a wonderful view of the city’s lights as you make your way toward the Austinger Brau.

Augustiner-Bräu

The Augustiner-Bräu is an old beer hall frequented by locals and tourists alike. If you arrive on a colder night, don’t be surprised if you walk in and think it’s closed (that’s just because all the action is happening downstairs, as the beer garden is only open in the warmer months). Head down the stairs and turn the corner. Any silence you might have experienced upstairs will be broken by laughter and the occasional singing accompanied by the smell of cooking sausages and freshly poured beer. This place is indeed the ideal location to finish your day exploring Salzburg! If you’re lucky and the beer garden is open, you’ll enjoy food and drink beneath a canopy of ancient Austrian trees under the starry sky.

How to Order

But first, you’ll need to know how to serve yourself. Yes, that’s right. There are no waiters here. To get a beer, go to the register and pay for as many drinks as you’d like; they will give you one ticket, which you use to trade in for a stein and another for your beers. Once armed with your stein, hand the barman your drink ticket to fill er’ up! The trade for doing all this yourself? Cheap beer, which tastes great. Once you’re done drinking as much as possible, wash out your stein and place it on the rack for someone else to use.

The food available is a traditional Bavarian fair. Small vendor stalls are located in the basement. They have everything from appetizers to desserts. Perfect for whatever you’re craving! Once you’ve got your food and beer tray, find a table and make some new friends. We witnessed friendly Austrians singing happy birthday to a group of tourists to welcome them into the country.

No doubt this tour has worn you out, but after a few Austrian beers, all you’ll feel is that warm fuzziness from good friends and a beautiful day in a fantastic city.

The post The Best Free Self-Guided Walking Tour of Salzburg, the city of the Sound of Music first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/self-guided-walking-tour-of-salzburg/feed/ 0 557 A Historic Self-Guided Walking Tour of Vienna https://thecreativeadventurer.com/self-guided-walking-tour-of-vienna/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=self-guided-walking-tour-of-vienna https://thecreativeadventurer.com/self-guided-walking-tour-of-vienna/#comments Mon, 30 Apr 2018 13:04:16 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//self-guided-walking-tour-of-vienna/ Vienna is the capital and largest city in Austria, and as of 2001, the entire town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has been named the "City of Music" or the "The City of Dreams" and for good reason. Vienna is home to some of the most interesting architectural masterpieces in Europe.

The post A Historic Self-Guided Walking Tour of Vienna first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> Vienna is the capital and largest city in Austria, and as of 2001, the entire town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has been named the “City of Music” or the “The City of Dreams” and for good reason. Vienna is home to some of the most interesting architectural masterpieces in Europe. While Vienna might be a big, bustling city, its historic centre is rather small and easily explorable by foot – the best way to get in touch with the feeling of this remarkable city. Modern buildings intertwine with gothic gems. While some historic towns feel like they are trapped in the past, this city embraces antiquity but still feels a part of the modern world. 

Table Of Contents
  1. Map of Walking Tour
  2. Vienna State Opera House
  3. Café Sacher Wien
  4. Albertinaplatz
  5. Kärntner Straße
  6. Kaisergruft
  7. Neuer Markt
  8. Haas Haus
  9. St. Stephen's Cathedral
  10. The Graben
  11. The Holy Trinity Plague Column
  12. St Peter's Church
  13. Cafe Demel
  14. MANZ Bookstore
  15. Looshaus
  16. Michaelerplatz
  17. Michaelerkirche
  18. Austrian National Library
  19. Heldenplatz
  20. Maria-Theresien-Platz
  21. Bier & Bierli

Map of Walking Tour

Vienna State Opera House

Start your tour at the Vienna State Opera House. In the City of Music, there is no better place to start than the Opera. The Opera House opened in 1863 and since then has been home to some of the most world-renowned artists, musicians and directors. Every year there are over 350 performances from over 60 different operas and ballets.

The facade of the Opera House hasn’t changed since 1869. Neo-Renaissance style arches and a huge veranda pops out onto the Ring Road and offers the public the chance to use the building as shelter from the rain or even just a shady pathway throughout the year. This integration of the building into the daily lives of people in Vienna also cemented its prominence as a piece of architecture in the hearts of its residences.

Harmony and Poetry

The bronze statues which top the building represent Erato’s two winged horses named Harmony and Poetry. Above each of the arches along the outside are five statues representing heroism, tragedy, fantasy, comedy, and love. There are also two iconic fountains on their side of the opera house which depict the two worlds which music can create; one representing dance, joy, and levity, and the other seduction, sorrow, love, and revenge.

Deep in the bones of this building, you will find veins of Vienna’s past. The arts were such a huge building block of Vienna’s culture. It was here that Mozart wrote the famous opera The Marriage of Figaro. The city was home to many great composers of the classical music era, during the early 19th century, such as Joseph Haydn and Ludwig van Beethoven.

You can get a behind the scenes tour which will take you backstage with a guide who will tell you all about the history of the opera house. If you’d rather watch a performance, tickets range anywhere from 8€-130€, but if you wanted to save money, you can purchase day-of standing room only tickets for as little as 2€. 

Café Sacher Wien

Café Sacher is a legendary restaurant. Located inside the Sacher Hotel, the cafe has stood in the same spot, serving the people of Vienna for over a century. Stepping inside the large entry doors, you are welcomed into a stunning Marie Antoinette-inspired dollhouse. Deep red painted walls are accented with bright white linens and sparkling golden chandeliers. The crown moulding is covered in gold leaf and acts like icing on top of a cake.

Cafe Sacher is famed for their invention of the Sachertorte, made in 1837 for the presiding Viennese prince. There is no better place in the world to sample this uniquely Viennese treat. The Sachertorte is made by combining two layers of airy chocolate cake, separated by apricot jam, coated with chocolate ganache and topped off with whipped cream. The cake itself is quite dry, so the whipped cream and a cup of warm coffee or tea is the best combination to enjoy the dessert to its fullest.

Albertinaplatz

Down the street from Cafe Sacher is Albertinaplatz or Albertina Square. Albertinaplatz is met on six sides by six different roads, making it a favourite meeting destination for the people of Vienna. From the square, you can see or visit the Albertina Art Museum, St. Augustin Church or the Austrian Film Museum.

In the centre of the square are various powerful statues and monuments. Before 1945, wealthy apartment blocks covered this square. But during WWII they were all subsequently destroyed in an air-raid. The numbers of deaths could never be verified, and the bodies could not be recovered from the rubble.All the statues now standing here, use stones similar to the ones pulled from the wreckage. Standing amongst the statues, almost beneath them, you can imagine how much carnage huge falling piece of stone would have caused.

The Gates of Violence

The Gates of Violence stand in the centre of the square and are the most imposing piece. They are made from the same material which was used to create stairs inside many of the infamous WWII death camps. The great stone is split in half, a powerful image symbolic of how war can break apart even the strongest things in this world. Embedded in the stones are images of war, gas masks, men and women caught in their moment of death, medical experiments, chained victims and weapons of war. It is a stirring and honest depiction of the horrors of war.

Orpheus Enters Hades

Another piece of sandstone displays a muscular man with his head buried in the stone. This piece is called Orpheus Enters Hades. It is meant to remind all those who pass by that ignorance leaves you as guilty as the rest.

A bronze statue lays almost flat on the ground. It is the image of a jew covered in barbed wire. A reminder of the degradation and humiliation that the Jews suffered in Vienna even before WWII. A weak arm is outstretched towards you, asking for help and one only wishes you could tear the copper wries from his body to set him free.

The Stone of the Republic

The Stone of the Republic is a replica of the 1945 declaration that established Austria’s second republic and helped protect the human rights of all its citizens. It is the best piece to finish on as it is a hopeful message to end with. Although these statues are very emotional to view, I think they are very important to see as we need to understand the entirety of Vienna history; the good, the bad and the ugly.

Kärntner Straße

Kärntner Straße or Carinthian Street is the most iconic shopping street in Vienna, frequented by so many people that it has been turned into a pedestrian-only zone. People can walk up and down the street from Karlsplatz to Stephansplatz without fear of running into traffic. The pedestrian zone creates this gorgeously open space. Even when hundreds of people are out and about it feels relaxed and unemcumbered.

Kaisergruft

The Kaisergruft, inside the Capuchin Church and Monastery, is home to the Viennese Imperial Crypts. Since 1618, the deceased members of the House of Habsburg have been buried here in ornate urns and opulent metal sarcophagi. While it might seem a bit macabre to explore the tombs, the resting places of the kings and queens of Vienna are more like a work of art than a graveyard.

Metal Sarcophagi

107 metal sarcophagi lay beneath the church, along with five heart urns. The more significant the person laid inside the more magnificent the tombstones. The prominent members of the royal family’s tombs are made of pure bronze while some of the more lowly members are made of cheaper, tin alloy, coated with shellac to appear to be bronze. In the 19th century, some of the tombs were even cast in silver and covered in gold plating for an even more expensive appearance. The study of metalwork throughout the ages is on display here just as much as the dead who lie beneath their masterpieces.

When the bodies were buried, most of their organs were removed since the tombs would be free-standing and this would result in excessive putrification of the organs in the basement of the church. The heart was often saved and placed in an individual silver urn atop or beside the tomb. Most of these urns were sent elsewhere, perhaps to stay with the family while their bodies lay to rest here. 

Sarcophagus of Empress Maria Theresia

The most incredible piece is the Sarcophagus of Empress Maria Theresia and Emperor Franz I Stephan designed by Balthasar Ferdinand Moll. This extravagant double sarcophagus in Rococo style featured the pair, as they would have appeared in life, lying on top of the lid, as if awakened from their slumber. They stare at each other, and their features are so lifelike one is almost skittish as you walk by. Their tombs, like many others, features scenes of critical moments in their lives surrounding the perimeter. The shrouded figures represent the grieving states which they ruled over in their time: Holy Roman Empire, Hungary, Bohemia and Jerusalem. They now rest at peace underneath a domed fresco, heavenly pink and blue painted clouds floating eternally overhead.

Neuer Markt

While it might be called the New Market this square is anything but new. It was first established as the primary market in Vienna in 1234 when the old Hohe Markt was no longer large enough for the needs of this growing medieval city. In the centre of the square stands the Thunder Well. The Thunder Well was created in 1739 by artistic Georg Raphael Donner. The bronze statues which surround the fountain are copies of original sculptures which are now housed in the Austrian Gallery Belvedere. 

Surrounding the square are several pastel coloured architectural masterpieces. #10-11 is where you’ll find a house which once was home to a traditional delicatessen. It was built by Arnold Heymann in the Old German Renaissance style. Today you can visit the new owners who still run a delicatessen business out of the storefront.

Mayseder house

Further down the street, you can find the Mayseder house at #15. This is the oldest house on the square, built in 1548, and now is home to a fancy jewellery shop.

Haas Haus

In sharp contrast to the houses along the New Market, the Haas House is a postmodern dream of architect Hans Hollein built in 1990. Today it is part retail and part restaurant so if you wish to dine inside you have the chance to eat within an architectural star.

St. Stephen’s Cathedral

Without a doubt, the most visited building in Vienna is St. Stephen’s Cathedral. The original church was built here in 1137, but after being ravaged by fire, a new church was constructed atop its literal ashes. The current incarnation is a mixture of Romanesque and Gothic influences built in the 14th century. 

The most impressive and unique feature of the church is the brightly coloured tile roof. Over 230,000 ceramic tiles create the stunning rooftop mosaic of the imperial double-headed eagle. The double-headed eagle is the symbol of the Habsburg Monarchy who ruled over Vienna for centuries. A double-headed eagle in Rome symbolized you weren’t merely an imperial ruler but a divine one, blessed by the Pope.

St. Stephen’s Roof

The iconic roof was the only part of the church to be damaged during WWII. Although there were official orders to fire upon the church until all that was left was rubble, those orders were dismissed. Perhaps the sheer power the church commanded caused those who would destroy it to betray their orders. During the Soviet occupation of Vienna, fires were set in the shops opposite the cathedral and, unfortunately, they spread and set fire to the church roof. Tiles crashed to the floor, but due to the dutiful efforts of their clergy who piled protective bricks atop their precious statues and monuments inside, nothing was too severely damaged before they could put out the fires.

The church’s tower overlooks over the entire city, watching over it like a dutiful guard. The tower is named Steffl and stands a staggering 136 meters high and is home to one of Europe most massive bells, which is etched with the face of the mother of god. It is a legend that when Beethoven was a child, he first became aware of his deafness when he stared up at the tower and saw the birds flying away as the bell began to ring but Beethoven himself couldn’t hear a thing.

Riesentor 

The Giant Gate or Riesentor is your entry into the Cathedral. This gateway was part of the original Romanesque church, built in 1223, which was subsequently burned down.  The name for the gate came from the discovery of a mastodon bone found beneath the church discovered in the 14th century. Before modern science, people believed that giants roamed Europe and that these mastodon and dinosaur bones were remanents of that great race.

Entry into St. Stephen’s Church

Although you can view the church from the square surrounding it, you must make the effort of going inside to visit. When you first enter there is an area which is free. To go further inside the nave will cost you, but the price is so minimal and more than worth it. Many day-tripping tourists will walk inside, snap a picture and walk right back out. The entry is so crowded but once you pay your €5,50 (Child: €2,00) the crowds disperse and all that is left is the immense beauty of the overwhelming columns, sparkling stained glass and monumental paintings.

As you walk through the church take a moment to study the gothic columns. Each one of them is home to a beautifully carved saint under ornate canopies. At the base of each column is a cluster of a richly pigmented paintings. The magnificent stone pulpit, created by Niclaes Gerhaert van Leydenm, is a gothic masterpiece, which encircles one of the support columns like a stone tentacle.

There are six chapels is total which are on either side of the nave. Each one dedicated to a different saint; Saint Barbara, Saint Catherine, the Chapel of the Cross, Saint Eligius, Saint Bartholomew, and Saint Valentine.

If you are feeling up to it, and I suggest you muster all your energy, take the time to climb the 342 steps up the South Tower. The steep and narrow ancient staircase will lead you up 246 feet to a lookout which provides one of the most stunning views of Vienna.

The Graben

After touring the church, you might want to chill out with a walk along the Graben. The Graben is Vienna’s Rodeo Drive. The word Graben means “gutter” as this area was once on the edge of the city walls, where the refuse would be thrown into the outer city moat. Today, it couldn’t be further from the gutter. Along this street, you’ll find some of the most expensive shops, exclusive retail, traditional delights and fantastical architecture – both old and new.

The Holy Trinity Plague Column

In the mist of high-end shops and expensive cafes and restaurants stands one of the most impressive Plague Columns in Europe. Plague columns were erected after plague was wiped out from the city. It was a monument of perseverance in the sight of great pain and suffering. Topped with the Mother of God, this Plague Column was also dedicated to the Brotherhood of the Holy Trinity who created plague hospitals to care for the infected.

Vienna suffered as many as 75,000 dead during their great plague in 1679. Vienna was spared much of the 14th-century plague but was ravaged when it returned in the 17th century. Although medicine and sanitization techniques were improving much of the treatments for the epidemic were still a mix of religious prayers and outlandish medicine. The column is 69 feet tall. At the base, we see the figures representing faith triumphing over disease. The middle portion has the visages of Emperor Leopold I and is topped with golden cherubs flying around to protect the Mother Mary.

St Peter’s Church

The Peterskirche or St. Peter’s Church sits on the corner of the Graben. The earliest church built on this site dates back to the early middle ages, but because nothing remains of that original structure, the church has lost its title as the “oldest church in Vienna”. The current iteration of the church was designed in Romanesque style, initially built in 1137 but redone in the 1700s after fire and plague ravaged the structure. 

The interior design of the church was inspired by the Vatican in Rome. When you step inside, you are swept up in a warmth that is almost ethereal. The church uses lots of pink and red marble as well as gold stucco throughout to create this welcoming radiance. A dark, baroque painting covers the massive dome and in the cupolas are frescoes representing the Coronation of Our Lady. The high altar might be one of the most stunning church altars in all of Europe. Walking up to it, your head cranes upwards, towards the heavens.

Healing of the Lame

Four columns on either side flanks a beautiful Viennese painting of the Healing of the Lame by St. Peter and St. John in Jerusalem by Martino Altomonte painted in the 16th century. If you continue to look upwards, you’ll see a smaller, circular painting of the Immaculate Conception, painted in the 19th century by the artist Kupelwiese.  The rest of the altar was created by Antonio Galli Bibiena and is a testament to his skill at creating scenes in gold and silver.

To the right of the altar is the spectacular gilded pulpit, crowned with a gold-and-silver representation of the Martyrdom of St. John of Nepomuk, sculpted by Lorenzo Mattielli. Above them on the canopy, sits the mother of God. The faces and expressions on the sculpture are so powerful and those precious metals seem to have such governance over the viewer.

On either side of the altar are the side chapels with paintings of the Holy family (left) and St. Michael (right). In either are glass coffins which contain martyrs from the Roman catacombs, dressed in full Roman regalia. Even the pews in the church are decorated, the ends carved with expressive cherubic heads. As you walk out of the church, take a moment to study the baroque organ built in 1751.

Cafe Demel

Cafe Demel is the closest thing to walking into Maria Antoinette’s bedroom youll ever find outside of Versaille. Luxurious dark wood with Neo-baroque patterns adorn the walls. Golden chandeliers with crystal petals hang from the ceiling and antique mirrors reflect back from every angle beautiful cakes and pastries hiding behind glass cabinets. Demel was established in 1786 and ever since has served Vienna the most mouth-watering pastries and chocolates.

The white-aproned waitresses help the customer pick out their treats. The chocolate comes in some of the most stunning packagings, and although are rather expensive, they make a unique gift which will be treasured by whoever receives it.

MANZ Bookstore

Beside Demel is the MANZ bookshop. MANZ has stood here for over 100 years selling mainly judicial literature. Today, it is a landmark not for its literary selection but its iconic art deco portal, designed in 1912 by Austrian architect Adolf Loos.

Looshaus

The Looshaus was designed by the same man who created the MANZ bookstore and constructed only a year before. But unlike MANZ which received overwhelmingly positive reviews, the Loohaus was considered too modern in 1911. Vienna was a baroque city which loved ornamentation, and the Loohaus was simplistic, geometric and contemporary. Although it took the public a long time to come around to this form of design, today it is viewed as a groundbreaking piece of art design architecture which helped push the movement forward in Europe.

Michaelerplatz

Michaelerplatz is a large square which separates the rest of the city from the Hofburg Palace, the former imperial court of Vienna. The enormous Michaelertor, the gate into the palace, dominates the square. Its masterful roman columns seem to swell like the crashing of the waves over the rest of the square. In the centre of the square, you can view an open area which has been preserved with the remains of Roman and Medieval foundations of the square which once stood here hundreds of years ago.

Michaelerkirche

On the opposite side of the Michaelertor gate is Michaelerkirche. The Michaelerkirche is an amalgamation of various architectural styles, the original medieval structure was built in 1221, the current facade built in 1792 is neoclassical and the tower, from the 14th century, displays many iconic elements of Gothic architecture.

Walking inside, you’ll be immediately struck with awe upon looking at the swelling, high altar. Designed in 1782 by Jean-Baptiste d’Avrange it is one of the most majestic stucco sculptures from the Rococo period. The piece features the story of the Fall of the Angels and includes the Archangel Michael of which the church is named after. Clouds burst from the walls and a golden sunburst beams from the ceiling. Angels and cherubs fall to the ground from above. On the lower sunburst is the altar of Maria Candia, a Byzantine icon of the Virgin Mary.

<blockquote class=”instagram-media” data-instgrm-permalink=”https://www.instagram.com/p/Cm4b30SI6EZ/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading” data-instgrm-version=”14″ style=” background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% – 2px); width:calc(100% – 2px);”><div style=”padding:16px;”> <a href=”https://www.instagram.com/p/Cm4b30SI6EZ/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading” style=” background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;” target=”_blank”> <div style=” display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;”> <div style=”background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;”></div> <div style=”display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;”> <div style=” background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;”></div> <div style=” background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;”></div></div></div><div style=”padding: 19% 0;”></div> <div style=”display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;”><svg width=”50px” height=”50px” viewBox=”0 0 60 60″ version=”1.1″ xmlns=”https://www.w3.org/2000/svg” xmlns:xlink=”https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink”><g stroke=”none” stroke-width=”1″ fill=”none” fill-rule=”evenodd”><g transform=”translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)” fill=”#000000″><g><path d=”M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631″></path></g></g></g></svg></div><div style=”padding-top: 8px;”> <div style=” color:#3897f0; 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Great Organ

The other iconic piece of design worth studying inside is the gilded pipe organ from Johann David Sieber. This is the largest baroque organ in Vienna. As you first gaze up at the centre you might not think it looks that big but look to the left and the right and observe the GIANT organs on either side of the smaller central set of pipes. The unfinished Requiem by Mozart was first performed here in 1791.

Austrian National Library

The Austrian National Library is older than some modern nations. The library dates back to 1349 and contains some of the most impressive collections of medieval literature across Europe. Although the 7 euro entry fee into the library might seem steep for entry into, basically one big room, trust me, this is one big room you don’t want to miss. Walking into the Grand Hall, you’re met right away with a breathtaking scene. You feel like you’re inside a cathedral with the massively high ceilings, doomed rooftop covered in frescos and enormous marble columns. But the important part of the room are the glossy amber shelves holding precious paper treasures.

Heldenplatz

This history of Heldenplatz is a sordid one. Heldenplatz or Heroes’ Square is a large public area in front of the Hofburg Palace. One of the darkest parts of this square’s history is its use in Adolf Hitler’s ceremonial announcement of the Austrian Anschluss to Nazi Germany on March 15th, 1938. The square is the perfect place to get an incredible shot of the Royal Castle which sits across the square. In the centre of the square stands the statue of Archduke Charles of Austria. The statue was installed in 1860, and was meant to lift the spirits of the people up after their defeat in a bloody battle. The horse he rides on is rearing up as this is a symbol of military glory. Another equestrian statue in the square is that of Prince Eugene of Savoy designed in 1865.

Maria-Theresien-Platz

Walking west along Heldenplatz Road you will come to another grand square; this one is the Maria-Theresien-Platz or Empress Maria Theresia Square. On either side of the square are two near-identical buildings, one is now the Natural Museum of History and the other the Art History Museum of Vienna. In the centre of the square is a large statue of Empress Maria Theresa, her hand outstretched towards the people below. She is surrounded by variously armed calvary surrounding the round statue. The square itself is decorated with simple yet aesthetically pleasing green shrubs and bushes carved into perfect round nodules.

Bier & Bierli

This charming tavern has been located along the Operngasse for hundreds of years, and the new owners wanted to continue its excellent legacy. Today this tavern serves up dozens of local and international beers and down-to-earth Viennese specialities. The walls are covered in beer memorabilia from over the years and sitting inside makes you feel like you’re more in a museum than a restaurant. If you want a down-home taste of Vienna, be sure to order the veal schnitzel, this gigantic fried piece of meat is served alongside a traditional helping of cranberry jelly, fried potatoes and a salad to make you feel like you’re offsetting all that fried goodness.

The post A Historic Self-Guided Walking Tour of Vienna first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/self-guided-walking-tour-of-vienna/feed/ 3 252 The 10 Best Things To Do In Jerome, Awesome Ghost Towns of Arizona https://thecreativeadventurer.com/top-10-things-to-do-in-jerome-arizona/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=top-10-things-to-do-in-jerome-arizona https://thecreativeadventurer.com/top-10-things-to-do-in-jerome-arizona/#comments Tue, 27 Feb 2018 00:08:13 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//2017-9-12-top-10-things-to-do-in-jerome-arizona/ Jerome is the perfect, little ghost town to visit on any road trip through Arizona or even as a day trip from Phoenix, Prescott or Tucson. Whether you're staying over night or just driving past, this guide will help you take in all the sight, sounds and savoury delights that this unique, old mining village has to offer!

The post The 10 Best Things To Do In Jerome, Awesome Ghost Towns of Arizona first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> Jerome is the perfect, little ghost town to visit on any road trip through Arizona or even as a day trip from Phoenix, Prescott or Tucson. Whether you’re staying overnight or just driving past, this guide will help you take in all the sights, sounds and savoury delights that this unique, old mining village has to offer!

Table Of Contents
  1. History of Jerome
  2. #1. Jerome State Historic Park
  3. #2. Cleopatra Hill Lookout
  4. #3. Bartlett Hotel
  5. #4. Jerome Historical Society Mine Museum
  6. #5. Hotel Connor and Spirit Room
  7. #6. Bobby D’s Bar-B-Q Pit at the English Kitchen
  8. #7. Caduceus Tasting Room
  9. #8. Shop Along Jerome's Historic District
  10. #9. Asylum Restaurant
  11. #10. The Grand Hotel

History of Jerome

Before we get into the places to visit, just a bit of history to set the scene… Jerome was founded in the late 19th century on Cleopatra Hill. It overlooks the scenic Verde Valley, which is 5,000 feet above sea level. During its heyday, it was home to more than 15,000 people. In WWI, the price of copper soared and American citizens came here in droves to mine the rich copper quarries that were abundant in this area of the west.

Wildest town in the West

Jerome was known as the wildest town in the west. It had a reputation for gambling, alcohol abundance, drug abuse, gunfights and other mayhem. But when the copper deposits were exhausted and the town became subject to numerous fires, earthquakes and other natural disasters, the population continued to decrease and eventually it became a ghost town with little to no sustainable source of income. As of 2010 the population was only 444 people. In the late 60’s, the Arizonian Tourism board saw it’s untouched architectural and cultural potential and established Jerome as a Historical Landmark in 1967. In the late 2000’s, art galleries and trendy restaurants started popping up to drive more people into the town.  The local State Park and National Museum was established to help preserve the history of mining in this village and to educate travelling visitors on the history of mining in Jerome.

#1. Jerome State Historic Park

To begin your journey in Jerome, the best place to start is at the Jerome State Historic Park located inside the old Douglas Mansion. The Museum is located on the other side of the town and provides fantastic views of the city and the phenomenal Verde Valley. Inside the museum you’ll get a great primer for what you’re going to see once you step inside the city. It’s a fantastic historical resource devoted to the preservation of the city of Jerome.

The Douglas Mansion was built in 1916 by James S. Douglas. He built it up on the hill beside the Little Daisy Mine which he owned. You can still see the old mine from the Mansion viewpoint. After his death, the house was turned into a National Museum and features photographs, mining artifacts, and minerals. They also have a video presentation and a 3-D model of the town as it was in the 1900s along with a model of the underground mines. Outside the mansion, you can visit the Audrey Headframe Park. It’s open from 8am-5pm where guests can stand on a glass floor above a 1,900 foot shaft where miners used to descend daily to begin their duties in 1918.

#2. Cleopatra Hill Lookout

One of the best views of the city and Cleopatra Hill is from inside the Museum. The lookout point in the courtyard provides panoramic views of the Verde Valley as well as the entire city of Jerome. You are provided with a map and an infograph of all the buildings (past and present).

#3. Bartlett Hotel

Once you’ve had your fill of history, it’s time to get back in your car and drive into the city. Main Street is the perfect place to find parking and drop your car off before you begin your walk. If you plan on staying overnight, then your hotel might provide overnight parking as well but there are lots of great spots right across from the Bartlett Hotel. Once you’ve parked your car, jet back across the street and look over the plaque dedicated to the Barlett Hotel.

History of the Bartlett

The original building built on this spot was once called the Grandview Hotel and was constructed in 1895. It was a dancehall, a dining room and and a high-society social club. In 1898 a great fire broke out throughout the city and the hotel was destroyed. The Bartlett Hotel was rebuilt in 1901, this time using bricks, hoping this would help withstand another fire. It was a lavish hotel. Each room was decorated differently, making every guest feel uniquely special.

New Jerome’s Times

The New Jerome’s Times, the longest running newspaper, ran its offices out of the Bartlett hotel for 20 years until it had to shut its doors due to poor circulation. The building was also used as a bank, drug store, and has four different offices and shops along the ground floor. But in the late 1940’s, the building became unstable and eventually abandoned. Now, all that’s left of it is the framing.  The Jerome Historical society has set up set up wooden ghosts apparitions for tourists to throw penny’s into to help raise money for future repairs and hopefully more preservation efforts throughout the city.

#4. Jerome Historical Society Mine Museum

After visiting the Bartlett Hotel, wander down the street until you get to the Jerome Historical Society Mine Museum. When you think “Museum” you might think “Oh no, we just were at one of these today!” But fear not! This place only costs $2 and takes only a few minutes to walk through. It gives you a better glimpse into what the lives were like for the miners who lived in Jerome during these boom times. It tells you stories from the perspectives of the miners themselves. You’ll learn why Jerome was named the Wickedest Town in The West and hear about how the miners sought their fortunes in the “billion dollar mining camp“.

They also have over 11,000 maps, newspapers and documents. The Historical Society also is responsible for protecting and preserving this town so you know your entry fee is going toward the preservation of this old city for future visitors.

#5. Hotel Connor and Spirit Room

Walking north east along Main Street and you’ll come upon the Hotel Connor and the Spirit Room. Be sure to stop in here for a drink along your journey as the desert heat can leave any traveller mighty thirty. This famous ghost sighting stop is a must see building along your tour.

Built in 1898 by David Connor, the Connor Hotel was one of Jerome precious jewels of the past. Originally this hotel was built with over twenty rooms on the second floor to house all the different travelling miners, business men and contractors coming from all over the west to cash in on the natural resources to be found here Verde Valley. Rooms only cost $1.00 but back in that day that was a kings random and the Connor Hotel didn’t disappoint. There was a bar, card room and even billiard tables on the first floor.

The Connor Hotel Fire

Just like the Bartlett hotel down the street, the Connor hotel also suffered at the hands of the flames in the great fires and burned down in 1898. Because there was so little land that could be built upon and all the buildings downtown were built do close together once a fire started it spread very quickly and there was no stopping it. But unlike many other shop owners, Connor had purchased insurance and was able to start construction on his new hotel very quickly. He made some lavish improvements on the previous hotel, and was up and running right away.

The Connor Hotel was one of the first hotels in Jerome to have electricity and telephone lines. What was their telephone numbers you ask? Well just dial “8”. There were only a few places with telephone so each one had a single digital number. Everything inside the Connor Hotel felt luxurious. It was the top of the line for hotels in the West, know all over Arizona. But as the mines began to run dry and the travelling miners started back home, the hotel started to run out of money and by 1931 the hotel had to close its doors, for what they thought would be the last time. It still tried to rent out its first floor to different shops to make some money but the second floor remained dormant until the late 60s when the tourist boom awakened the city once more.

The Spirit room

After a huge renovation to update the hotel to modern safety codes and health standards, the hotel is inviting travellers back through its doors to experience a piece of history. But for day trippers that just want to see a piece of this treasure, go inside the Spirit Room to grab a drink inside the bar. It’s full of little treasures from the original hotel and had so much character to it. It feels like a saloon from an old Western movie and you just expect a cowboy to walk through the door at any minute.

#6. Bobby D’s Bar-B-Q Pit at the English Kitchen

By now you’re probably pretty hungry and I’ve got the perfect lunch spot picked out for you! There’s a lot of pretty cheesy restaurants when it comes to ghost towns. A lot of them themed on “ghostly” menu items featuring plenty of random western decor all over the walls. But Bobby D’s BBQ Pit is just plain good food at great prices. In tourist towns, sometimes you just stuck with terrible food at high prices but this little gem is neither. It’s just around the corner from both the Connor hotel and the Historical Society so it’s the perfect place to grab something to eat before heading up the hill for the rest of our tour.

Their drinks are all served in wonderfully western mason jar glasses which just adds to the down-home atmosphere to the place. Try any of their local craft beers or iced teas. Some of their most popular menu items are the brisket and ribs tips, Mac ‘n Cheese, Jalapeño Cheddar Cornbread and Pulled Pork! Everything is smoked in house and you can smell the BBQ all over town – it is pretty hard to resist. Everything is absolutely delicious and the best picks for a great western luncheon.

#7. Caduceus Tasting Room

Once you’re all full up on BBQ, it’s time to relax and sample some of Verde Valley’s best vino. Located high on top of Cleopatra Hill along the main street is Caduceus Tasting Room and Espresso Bar. In here youou can sit and relax while you sip on your wine selection provided to you by a wonderfully kind and knowledgeable group of staff. This place also has lots of room to sit and enjoy one of their incredible charcuterie platters. If wine isn’t you thing, this place also has a selection of incredible espressos to give yourself a boost for the rest of the day.

#8. Shop Along Jerome’s Historic District

As you finish your last sample of wine, take one last look at the view and head out the door. We’re going to head back along the historic Main Street where local artisans and souvenir shop owners have begun to pop up over the years. It’s here you can find the most unique and interesting delights from chocolate fudge to vintage dresses to kaleidoscopes and hand painted art.

There is something for everyone along this strip. Among the different shops you’ll also pass by old run down houses, abandoned for years and years. It’s interesting to see the marriage of old and new. But despite new tenants moving into these buildings, the facades and the structures haven’t changed much, or at all, over the years. 

OJ’s Copper Country Fudge

One of my favourite shops is OJ’s Copper Country Fudge. It sells different sweets treats made using the same recipe they’ve used sine the 1930’s. This feels like the kinda of place a miner might have taken his family to relax after a long week in the mines.

#9. Asylum Restaurant

Walk along Clark street toward the fork in the road where Clark meet Hill Street. This is where you’ll veer off the path and start walking up Hill street. Before you start up Hill street, you’ll pass by the scenic Surgeons house which was built in 1916 for Jerome’s Chief Surgeon and used all throughout the heyday of Jerome mining boom for the nurse’s residence. Many people were treated by the doctors here as mining was one of the more dangerous professions and it is widely rumoured that the ghosts still haunt the house today.

The Award Winning Asylum Restaurant located at the Jerome Grand Hotel offers lunch and dinner services every day. The restaurant overlooks the entire Verde Valley and provides the diners one of the most amazing views. Although the name seems a bit cheesy, the decor inside is beautiful art deco from the period the building was constructed. The food is all classic dishes and are wonderfully prepared by some of the best chefs in the Valley. Their best menu meals choices include Julienne Pastrami Salad, Char-Broiled Chilean Grilled Salmon and Mesquite Bacon Wrapped Filet Mignon.

#10. The Grand Hotel

If you decide to stay the night, or even if this is just the last stop on your tour, ending the day at the Grand Hotel gives you a breathtaking view of the city and puts a historical button on the day. The Grand Hotel, as it stands today is fairly different in appearance from its original. The Jerome Grand Hotel was constructed in 1926 as the Verde County Hospital. In 1920 it became one of the most modern and well-equipped hospitals in Arizona as the mining finances paid for the best services money could afford.

But by the 50’s, when the mining dried up, the hospital closed down. The building stood unused for 44 years until it was renovated by the Altherr family in 1994 and turned into a hotel for tourists. They made sure to try and make as little changes to the building to keep it as historical memory of this town as well as a functional attraction.

Mission Architecture

The old hospital was built in the original mission revival style of architecture and was one of the last major buildings to be constructed in Jerome. Since it was so far away from the city centre it avoided a lot of the fires that broke out downtown and therefore remained more intact architecturally. Also, because it was a hospital and contained so many expensive machines, it was made to be fireproof and withstand dynamite blasts of up to 260,000 pounds.

If you’re brave enough to stay the night, you’re up for a few chilling surprises. There have been several hauntings known to appear throughout the halls of the hospital. People report hearing smells coming from unoccupied rooms such as cigar smoke and whiskey. Others report televisions sets turning themselves on and off without explanation. There have also been two apparitions known to be seen on occasions. One in a white hospital gown and the other in a nurses outfit. Are you brave enough to survive a night in this ghost town? 

I hope you enjoyed this walking tour. Jerome is a great place for a day out and will give you a taste of what a historic mining town was like back when it was the “Wildest Town in the West!”

The post The 10 Best Things To Do In Jerome, Awesome Ghost Towns of Arizona first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/top-10-things-to-do-in-jerome-arizona/feed/ 4 373 The Ultimate 24-Hours in Salzburg, Austria https://thecreativeadventurer.com/24-hours-in-salzburg-austria/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=24-hours-in-salzburg-austria https://thecreativeadventurer.com/24-hours-in-salzburg-austria/#comments Wed, 29 Nov 2017 19:04:00 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//24-hours-in-salzburg-austria/ Salzburg is not only a historical and picturesque, baroque utopia, but it was also the setting for the classic film The Sound of Music. Any place deemed charming enough to be the backdrop for such an extraordinary film is undoubtedly worth your time. Getting the chance to see the actual locations where this quintessential movie was made is a treat for cinema lovers as well as music aficionados. 

The post The Ultimate 24-Hours in Salzburg, Austria first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> Salzburg might not be at the top of your list of places to visit on your next European vacation, but it should be. If you’re travelling through Austria, it’s worth stopping for a day or two to see what this fantastic city offers. 

Salzburg is not only a historical and picturesque baroque utopia but also the setting for the classic film The Sound of Music. Any place deemed charming enough to be the backdrop for such an extraordinary film is undoubtedly worth your time. Seeing the actual locations where this quintessential movie was made is a treat for cinema lovers and music aficionados. 

The best way to spend 24 hours in Salzburg is to get here early in the morning, hopefully by overnight train from your last destination. This way, you’ll save one night’s accommodation and splurge a bit the next day. Overnight trains in Europe are excellent and are an experience everyone should have once in their life. 

Table Of Contents
  1. Map of Walking Tour
  2. Salzburg Hauptbahnhof
  3. Mirabell Gardens
  4. Salzach River
  5. Mozartplatz
  6. Residenceplatz
  7. Royal Residence
  8. Salzburg Cathedral
  9. Alter Markt
  10. Fisch-Krieg Fish Market
  11. Balkan Grill
  12. Getreidegasse
  13. Mozart's Birthplace
  14. Franziskanerkirche
  15. St. Peter's Abbey & Cemetery
  16. Hohensalzburg Castle
  17. Augustiner-Bräu

Map of Walking Tour

Salzburg Hauptbahnhof

After stepping off the train, your first stop should be at a local cafe. This doesn’t have to be anywhere fancy or famous. Train stations in Europe have marvellous cafes open as early as the trains start arriving, where you can sample all of Austria’s delicacies. Often, when merely transferring trains in a country I might not have visited, I will spend time waiting for my connection and sampling local treats. I’ve had legendary Belgian waffles in Belgium without stepping outside the station. Salzburg is most notable for its “Nockerln,” a cream-and-butter fluffy souffle served with a fruit sauce. So if you want to start your day off with a particularly Salzburgian flare, see if you can find one of these.

Mirabell Gardens

After grabbing a few pastries and coffee to get you started, head down to Mirabell Gardens. Here, you’ll be able to sit and enjoy your Austrian breakfast in one of the most elegantly designed royal gardens in Europe. The park gates open at 8 am, so we are sure not to arrive before then. Mirabell Gardens is a serene oasis that has long been the secret gateway for the Austrian aristocracy.

History of Mirabell Palace

The palace that served as the garden backdrop was built in 1606 for Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau. He had the heavenly white mansion designed for the love of his life, Salome. The Prince ensured the gardens were as impressive as the interiors since Salome adored being outdoors. In 1721, after a fire destroyed many buildings, Prince-Archbishop Franz Anton von Harrach had it redesigned by the famous Baroque architect Lukas von Hildebrandt who integrated all the various structures that were spread out into one self-contained complex. This allowed the gardens to surround the palace and flow alongside it like a river so that no matter where you exited, you were always greeted with lush greenery and brightly coloured flowers.

Hedge Theater

The Mirabell Gardens are truly a preserved treasure of a bygone age. The Hedge Theater, created between 1704 and 1718, is one of the oldest hedge theatres in the northern Alps and is the same hedge theatre used in the film The Sound of Music. The Von Trapp children can be seen running through it during the “Doe A Deer” musical number. 

Zwergerlgarten

Another ancient oddity still lingers within this garden is the Zwergerlgarten, or “dwarf garden.” This small alcove is located just up the stairs from the Pegasus statue. Most visitors pass right by it but make sure you make a point to explore. Within this petite corner is a collection of exquisite, yet grotesque, figures of dwarves modelled after actual people who lived in the palace in the 17th century. Back then, it was thought to be good luck to employ a dwarf. The Archbishops of Salzburg adored them so much that he even had their likeness cast into stone. Nowadays, we might look at these statues and feel like they are slightly offensive, but at the time, they were meant to be an honour and were revered by all those who passed by them.

Design of Mirbaell Gardens

The original landscape designer went to great lengths to create a sumptuous structure for the garden beds, which could be seen from the palace and the top of the hillside Fortress. This way, all those around Salzburg could see the greatness that was Mirabell Palace Gardens. The gardens are always changing up their flower designs and colours for guests and locals alike, so there’s consistently something new to discover.

As you circle the perimeter, you’ll notice towering white statues acting as the garden’s guardians. Sculpted by Gerard van Opstal, a skilled artist of classical mythologies from Antwerp, these glorious scenes of lust, triumph and pain, while not as proficient as some pieces from Italy’s Renaissance masters, are nonetheless wonderfully powerful works of art.

Salzach River

As you finish your tour of the Gardens, pass through the Northern Exit, which will lead you towards the Salzach River. Walk southeast along the river’s edge, where you’ll find a pretty pedestrian walkway. This little trail is a great place to admire the cake-topper, pastel baroque houses which dot the riverside. Soon, you’ll reach the Mozartsteg bridge, a great place to stop and watch tourist boat putter by, much as the salt boats would have floated up and down this same river hundreds of years ago. Salzburg’s mines were rich with salt, a hot commodity as early as the 8th century. Salt is the reason the city became wealthy and, as such, gave the town its name. Salzburg means “Salt Castle.”

Mozartplatz

After you get off the bridge, head down to the Mozartplatz or Mozart Square. Mozart Square is named after Salzburg’s most famous resident, you guessed it, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. The statue looming in the middle of the square, dedicated to the legendary composer, was unveiled on September 5, 1842, by sculptor Ludwig Schwanthaler. Although Mozart wasn’t alive to see it, his sons were present as the entire city came together to honour their father’s work. The buildings surrounding Mozartplatz are lovely examples of 16th and 18th-century architecture so take a minute to sit and admire the surroundings.

Residenceplatz

Residence Square is located nearby and comprises the New Residence of the Princes of the Salzburg, the Salzburg Cathedral, various aristocratic townhouses and a dozen famous bakeries and cafes. In the middle of the square stands the centrepiece, the enormous Italian Baroque fountain of Tommaso di Garone. It is one of the most magnificent baroque fonts in Europe. Four horses burst out of a rocky mound, rearing up their legs as water shoots from their mouths. Triton stands upon the rocks, holding up a scalloped upper basin that three dolphins balance atop.

Royal Residence

While exploring Residence Square, check out the Royal Residence courtyard. Although you can also explore the interior, this might be better left for a more extended stay. From the exterior, you can still see where the Royals would have lived during their time in Salzburg and get a glimpse of their lifestyle in Austria.

Salzburg Cathedral

Next, it’s over the famous Dom zu Salzburg or Salzburg Cathedral for some spiritual awakening and awe-inspiring architecture. The first Christian church was built in here Salzburg in 774. The original foundations of that church remain here today, underneath the new DOM. When that first church was built, it was one of the largest sacred buildings in Europe. But in 842, lightning struck it and burned it to the ground.

History of the Dom Cathedral

In 1181 a late Romanesque structure was restored, but it was also burnt down in 1598. Some say the fire wasn’t an accident but was initiated by the then Prince-Archbishop, Wolf Dietrich, who wanted to build a new church in his preferred style. But his plans were thwarted, and Italian architect Santino Solari oversaw the current design. It was consecrated in 1628 by Archbishop Paris Count Lodron. The Salzburg Cathedral is one of Germany’s best examples of early Baroque architecture. Its imposing Untersberg marble facade is framed between two twin towers with bright green domes. Atop the towers are four statues; Peter and Paul hold a key and a sword, respectively and Salzburg’s two patron saints, Rupert and Virgil, each clasp a salt vessel (the symbol of the city) and a model of the church.

The church’s exterior has a huge bronze statue of the Virgin Mary, which stands outside to greet visitors. She is flanked by various other expressive characters, and her loving embrace of her son warms your soul on even the coldest day.

Interior of the Dom Cathedral

Three doors allow you to enter the church, each one illustrating a theme; Faith, Hope and Love. The interior of the church is both minimal and elaborate at the same time. The church’s structure is painted a soothing and peaceful shade of white. Despite the simplistic white paint, ornate stucco designs in baroque shapes are embedded onto the walls, columns, archways and ceiling. We have brightly painted frescos along the roof, their colours sharply contrasted against the white of the rest of the Cathedral.

Near the entrance is a Romanesque font where Mozart was baptized. The font is made entirely of bronze and decorated with reliefs of various biblical saints. Be sure to take a moment to study the magnificent organ. Many of Mozart’s compositions were written for this very instrument. They were initially meant to be played in this very place.

Alter Markt

Now, I bet you’re getting slightly hungry after all this walking. So it’s time to start searching for something to eat. Walk over to the Alter Markt, where you have various options. During the middle ages, farmers from all over the country would come here to sell their goods. The St. Florian Fountain in the middle of the square was built in 1488, with the Salzburg’s coat of arms emblazed. The buildings surrounding the marketplace date back to the middle ages, designed in the old burgher’s style of architecture.

Café Tomaselli

There are many different cafes to grab a bite at, but if you have a few extra euros to spend and want an exceptional experience try Café Tomaselli. This cafe is over a hundred years old, and Mozart used to come in here to drink, of all things, almond milk. The cafe is full of history and is decorated with old paintings curated by their various owners. The stories this place could tell if only the walls could talk. But this atmosphere comes with a price. If you still want a chance to visit but are short on cash, simply order a coffee and split a simple pastry with a friend.

Fisch-Krieg Fish Market

If you decide that the Alter Market is too rich for your blood, head to Fisch-Krieg Fish Market. This adorable restaurant along the water is half fish market, half restaurant. All you need to do is pick which variety of fish you’d like, choose how you want it cooked (grilled or fried), and they will serve it up to you alongside one of their many traditional Austrian salads. All their dishes are very reasonably priced, and they have a great taste of traditional Salzburg cuisine. The shop’s interior, with its unique plastic tree growing right up through the floor, is one of those unforgettable touches that will stay in your memory forever. I cannot recommend this place more!

Balkan Grill

Lastly, if you’re looking for something really, really inexpensive that’s just as delicious as it is authentically Austrian, you have to check out the Balkan Grill. Balkan Grill is located at 33 Getreidegasse, one of the city’s most upscale neighbourhoods. They have been serving sausages in this tiny booth for over 50 years, and there is always a line-up. They only have one thing on the menu: a grilled pork sausage covered in your choice of; onions, fresh parsley, and a secret blend of spices served on a white bun with some curry mustard and ketchup. There is something about the fresh parsley that really brightens up the greasy sausage.

Getreidegasse

Once you have sated your hunger, take a few moments to explore Getreidegasse. Getreidegasse, or “grain lane,” is Salzburg’s most prestigious shopping street. It’s most recognizable for its tall and narrow houses, which seem to lean over the sidewalk below.

Ornately designed wrought iron signs hang off the sides of the buildings. These signs were wordless symbols in the middle ages to help citizens who couldn’t read find bakeries, cobblers or butcher shops. The signs have been updated with logos featuring iconic fashion brands, but they have kept up their antique look.

Mozart’s Birthplace

One building worth a second look at is #9 Getreidegasse. This is Mozart’s “Geburtshaus,” or Birthplace. Its golden yellow exterior makes it unmissable as you walk along the street. The Mozart Family lived on the third floor of the “Hagenauer House” from 1747 to 1773. Mozart spent his childhood in Salzburg, developing his incredible musical talent. Inside is a small museum which still holds many objects from the Mozart household and recreations of what the home would have looked like in the 18th century.

Franziskanerkirche

Once you’re exploring Getreidegasse, head north, down Wiener-Philharmoniker-Gasse, to see the Franciscan Church. The Franciscan Church, or Franziskanerkirche, is the architectural opposite of the Salzburg DOM. Whereas the DOM is bright and white, the Franziskanerkirche is dark and GOTHIC! I love both for different reasons, and both are worth checking out.

The first church built on these grounds was erected in the 8th century. It was frequently ravaged by fires and rebuilt time after time. The Salzburg middle class of the 15th century was reasonably well off. When their church needed renovation, they gathered up the required funds themselves. They hired the famous architect Hans von Burghausen to design a newer and more magnificent church. His work was a masterpiece of Gothic architecture. Throughout the church, you’ll find slender, dark marble columns that reach up to the sky and open into refined rib vaulting, like a pair of hands whose fingers open to the heavens.

St. Peter’s Abbey & Cemetery

Continue onwards to St. Peter’s Cemetery. St. Peter’s Cemetery is the oldest in Salzburg. Looking at the gravestones, they don’t appear so ancient but take a look behind the headstones, along the rockface, to see where the real history lies. Carved into Mönchsberg are a set of caves which served as catacombs for the earliest settlers. The oldest surviving tombstones inside date back to 1288. If you decide to go inside, you can climb up the 48 steps to see the “Gertrauden Chapel,” which dates back to 1178.

Back on the ground, you can see several crypts flank the nearby church’s exterior. These elegant wrought-iron fences protect the crypts of some of Salzburg’s wealthiest families. These crypts also were the setting for one of the iconic scenes in The Sound of Music when the Von Trapp family was hiding from the Nazis during their daring escape.

Hohensalzburg Castle

To end your walking tour, head to the Mönchsberg funicular, which will take you all the way to the top of the hillside to the crowning glory of Salzburg, the Hohensalzburg Castle.

The first castle built on this site was raised in 1077 and was little more than four wooden walls. It was made high up on the hills to serve as a lookout post to protect the city against Imperial troops from the Holy Roman Empire.

Interior of the Palace

Over the years, towers were built, stone walls were added to fortify the castle, and the fortress grew in size. Inside the castle, the portrait gallery is the first room you’ll pass through. It’s filled with more than a dozen portraits of all the Prince whose legacy it was to grow the size and strength of this impressive Castle Fortress. Unlike many others across Europe, modernization has not touched this building. Salzburg was never subject to attack, so its historic castle was never destroyed or rebuilt. This treasure of the past is truly a unique experience to walk through.

Inside you’ll get to see some of the furnishings used by the royals who once lived within these walls. Opulent wallpaper, lush bedding and even the most ornate heaters you’ve ever seen. In addition to exploring the life of the royals, there are also various exhibits displaying the might of their army. Armour, weaponry and even medieval torture devices are displayed for viewers to discover.

Salzach at Dusk

After exploring the castle, take advantage of the vantage point atop the mountain and walk along the pedestrian path toward the perfect dinner destination. As day turns to dusk, you’ll have a wonderful view of the city’s lights as you make your way toward the Austinger Brau.

Augustiner-Bräu

The Augustiner-Bräu is an old beer hall frequented by locals and tourists alike. If you arrive on a colder night, don’t be surprised if you walk in and think it’s closed (that’s just because all the action is happening downstairs, as the beer garden is only open in the warmer months). Head down the stairs and turn the corner. Any silence you might have experienced upstairs will be broken by laughter and the occasional singing accompanied by the smell of cooking sausages and freshly poured beer. This place is indeed the ideal location to finish your day exploring Salzburg! If you’re lucky and the beer garden is open, you’ll enjoy food and drink beneath a canopy of ancient Austrian trees under the starry sky.

How to Order at Austrian Beer Halls

But first, you’ll need to know how to serve yourself. Yes, that’s right. There are no waiters here. To get a beer, go to the register and pay for as many drinks as you’d like; they will give you one ticket, which you use to trade in for a stein and another for your beers. Once armed with your stein, hand the barman your drink ticket to fill er’ up! The trade for doing all this yourself? Cheap beer, which tastes great. Once you’re done drinking as much as possible, wash out your stein and place it on the rack for someone else to use.

The food available is a traditional Bavarian fair. Small vendor stalls are located in the basement. They have everything from appetizers to desserts. Perfect for whatever you’re craving! Once you’ve got your food and beer tray, find a table and make some new friends. We witnessed friendly Austrians singing happy birthday to a group of tourists to welcome them into the country.

No doubt this tour has worn you out, but after a few Austrian beers, all you’ll feel is that warm fuzziness that comes from good friends and a beautiful day in a fantastic city. Salzburg is a city that truly has something for everyone, from its stunning architecture and rich cultural heritage to its delicious cuisine and lively atmosphere. Whether you have just 24 hours or a little longer, be sure to take advantage of all this beautiful city has to offer.

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate 24-Hours in Salzburg, Austria first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/24-hours-in-salzburg-austria/feed/ 7 361 Complete Guide to the Best Artworks inside the Dresden Old Masters Gallery https://thecreativeadventurer.com/complete-guide-to-the-best-artworks-inside-the-dresden-old-masters-gallery/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=complete-guide-to-the-best-artworks-inside-the-dresden-old-masters-gallery https://thecreativeadventurer.com/complete-guide-to-the-best-artworks-inside-the-dresden-old-masters-gallery/#respond Mon, 09 Oct 2017 21:02:57 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//2017-10-6-guide-to-the-dresden-old-masters-gallery/ The Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (or Old Masters Gallery) is honestly the best art gallery I ever had the pleasure of visiting. It doesn't feel too big nor too small. It's like a grand old home that someone has decorated with exquisite pieces of arts — a stellar collection that's lovingly curated. 

The post Complete Guide to the Best Artworks inside the Dresden Old Masters Gallery first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> The Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (or Old Masters Gallery) is the best art gallery I have ever visited. It doesn’t feel too big or too small. It’s like a grand old home that someone has decorated with exquisite pieces of art — a stellar collection that’s lovingly curated. While it may seem much smaller than the Louvre or the Prado, there are over 700 paintings on display, ranging from the 15th to 18th century. Treasures from major Italian Renaissance artists, Dutch and Flemish masters and other works by German, French and Spanish painters combine to form this hidden gem in Dresden.

Table Of Contents
  1. Access & Admission
  2. History
  3. Entering the Gallery
  4. The Sistine Madonna
  5. The Sleeping Venus
  6. The Portrait of a Boy
  7. The Tribute Money
  8. The Sacrifice of Isaac
  9. The Archangel Michael Vanquishing the Devil
  10. The Dresden Triptych
  11. The Drunken Hercules
  12. Memento Mori
  13. Girl Reading a Letter at an Open Window
  14. The Procuress
  15. Lucas Cranach, the Elder

Access & Admission

The Dresden Old Master’s Gallery is located in the heart of Dresden, Germany. It is situated in the historic center of the city, in the same building as the Royal Palace, which is now home to the state art collections of Saxony. The museum is easily accessible by public transportation, with several tram and bus lines stopping directly in front of the building. Visitors can also reach the museum on foot from the main train station, which is only a few minutes’ walk away.

The Museum is open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and is closed on Mondays. Tickets cost €14 for adults, €10.50 for students and seniors, and anyone under 17 is free. Buy tickets online in advance to ensure access to the museum on busy days.

Accessibility

The Dresden Old Master’s Gallery has barrier-free access. There is
step-free access via Theaterplatz and via the Zwingerhof. There is an elevator next to the museum entrance. Ask staff for any additional assistance.

History

In 1560, the Art Chambers of Saxony declared that paintings and sculptures were “lesser pieces of historical importance” and chose to favour revolutionary technology and scientific advancements. But when Augustus II the Strong came into power, the future looked bright for Germany’s art collections. Augustus II (and his son, the aptly named Augustus III, who would eventually succeed him) had a deep appreciation for art.

Their family began collecting significant pieces of European art from different periods. During their reigns, the German collection more than doubled in size. With this influx of new pieces, the royal collection had to have a beautiful place to be housed. Architect Gottfried Semper, who also designed the Semper Opera House, was asked in 1838 to build a gallery to store all these famous works of art. In 1855, the new Royal Museum opened to the public.

During WWII, the museum was closed, and all the essential pieces were sent away for safekeeping in mansions around Germany. Unfortunately, some works were still lost after the invasion of the Red Army despite being saved from the bombing. It wasn’t until the late 60s that some of the lost paintings were rightfully returned to the people of Dresden. To this day, there are still more than 450 pieces missing.

Entering the Gallery

Entering the gallery, you pass through a set of enormous wood-carved doors. They are three times the size of a regular door and are incredibly heavy. The giant iron knobs creak as you push them open. It feels like entering an old mansion rather than a modern museum. After paying for your ticket, you can leave any cumbersome bags or coats downstairs in the locker room. You can then head up the ornate staircases to the galleries. The staircase is a reconstruction covered in beautiful grisaille (“a method of painting in grey monochrome, typically to imitate sculpture”), making the walls appear to come alive despite being simple plaster.

The first thing you notice when you walk into the first gallery is the colour of the walls. This vibrant red is used to support the entire collection. As you move from room to room on the first floor, full of Italian artwork, you will only see the walls painted in this same colour of red. As you move to the Dutch and Flemish painters, the walls change to green. Finally, the Spanish and French artists are all displayed on a blue-grey-coloured wall. There are so many memorable pieces in the gallery, but I wanted to share some of the ones that struck a chord with me and whose powerful imagery still lingers in my mind.

The Sistine Madonna

The Sistine Madonna, also called the Madonna di San Sisto, was painted by the Italian artist Raphael Sanzio in 1512. It stands at the back of one of the larger galleries. The lighting in this room is slightly dimmer than the rest of the exhibits, and Madonna’s robe’s bright red and blue seem to glow in the distance.

The piece was designed to fit above the altar in the church of San Sisto, Piacenza. Giorgio Vasari called it “a truly rare and extraordinary work,” and, looking up at it in person, you know what he means. This piece was the crowning glory for Augustus the Strong, who bought the work for over 100,000 francs. He even had the painting hung in his throne room when it was first brought to court and claimed that it would put visitors into a state of religious ecstasy when they looked upon it.

The Cherubs

But what is most curious about this painting is not the four figures prominently featured in the foreground but the two little cherubs floating at their feet. These cherubs have become iconic in their own right. I’d seen these angels all over the place when I was younger and never knew they were a part of a larger painting. According to legend, when Raphael was painting the Madonna, the children of his model would come in to watch him work. He was so taken by the children and the way they would stare up at their mother he just had to incorporate them into the painting — staring up for eternity, awestruck at the mother of God.

The Sleeping Venus

The Sleeping Venus, also known as the “Dresden Venus,” is a painting by the Italian Renaissance master Giorgione. This piece is one of the most erotic pictures in his oeuvre. When you look at it in person, it’s vexing. Her skin feels like you could reach out and touch it. She seems vulnerable, lying there without her clothes, drawing all eyes toward her naked flesh. Giorgione died before he could finish the work. It was eventually completed by the infamous painter Titian, who would have a successful career producing works of beguiling women.

Although she is nude, this isn’t what makes the work so sensuous. The woman is lying with her arm raised and her hand resting on her groin. If you look closely, the painter has made great pains to paint the landscape in a way that mimics the shape and curves of the woman’s body. It makes the viewer feels as though this dominant woman is shaping the world with the power of her body.

Giorgione, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Portrait of a Boy

This Portrait of a Boy by Bernardino Pinturicchio is an excellent example of Renaissance art and a great representation of childhood. The boy in the painting seems to be alive, his eyes looking right at ours as if he had been looking away, then was startled and turned to face us. He seems sad, almost annoyed, portraying the epitome of youthful grumpiness.

Pinturicchio, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Tribute Money

Titian‘s The Tribute Money depicts the Pharisee’s attempt to catch Christ with trick questions. They asked Christ whether it was lawful to pay taxes. But no matter how he answers, he will be trapped. Instead, Christ responds to the man to hand him a coin and says, “give to Caesar what is Caesar’s and to God what is God’s.” The painting is so expertly painted you can almost feel the tense interaction between the two. Christ seems calm, his hands relaxed despite encountering such accusations. The Pharisee’s hands are dark and crumpled up, his face wrinkled and menacing.

Titian, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Sacrifice of Isaac

Andrea Del Sarto‘s The Sacrifice of Isaac is a heartbreaking painting that is emotional and full of action. As if you’ve just caught them in the act, God is testing Abraham’s faith by commanding him to sacrifice his only son, Isaac. Abraham is prepared to comply, but God sends an angel to stop him. If you look closely, you can see the painting is not finished, giving scholars a chance to see the different stages the painter took while working on his masterpiece.

In my opinion, the facial features make this painting so compelling. Look at the fearful expression in the boy’s eyes. He is looking right our way, seemingly calling out for help and asking us to step in. Abraham has a tear in his swollen eye, and his mouth hangs open with relief as the angel proclaims that his son shall live.

Andrea del Sarto, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Archangel Michael Vanquishing the Devil

The Archangel Michael Vanquishing the Devil, an action-packed scene by Tintoretto, is a brilliant example of the painter’s artistic style. He loved group scenes full of theatrical performances. The entire environment is saturated in divine light. The angels are driving away Satan, portrayed as the seven-headed dragon. One of the angels uses a lance to cast him back down to hell. This forms the dynamic axis, giving the painting an intense and active feel.

The Dresden Triptych

The Dresden Triptych is a tiny hinged altarpiece completed by the early Netherlandish painter Jan van Eyck in 1437. Considering it is such a small piece, the painting may have been used for private prayers in a household or as a portable altarpiece for a wealthy clergyman. The triptych is embedded in a beautiful golden frame with script engraved along the edges.

The structure built around the painting highlighted the art and protected it from damage. The center of the frame depicts the Virgin and Child sitting inside a magnificent cathedral or church. They are sitting upon a large, canopied throne with dozens of ornate columns flanking either side of the chair. The columns are dark, painted red, orange and grey, conveying a “sense of airy silence.” 

Jan van Eyck, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Mary is draped in a dark red and richly embroidered gown. This dress is the most eye-catching part of the frame, and you are drawn into her. Contrasted against the dark red is the naked baby, with his hands outstretched, asking the people to come to him and “Learn of me, for I am meek and lowly in heart.”

St. Catherine

St. Catherine and the Archangel Michael are on the Virgin and Child’s other side. Compared to the darker environment the Virgin sits in, the two saints are bathed in holy light from the stained glass windows behind them. Both St. Michael and St. Catherine are dazzling in their appearance. They have worn only their best to come and meet Christ’s child. St. Catherine is dressed as she would have been when she was a princess before her torture and execution for her religious beliefs. She is stunning — her hair worn down, crowned with a tiara.

The blue of her dress, shining in the light, seems to almost sparkle. It’s as if God is thanking her for her sacrifice and making her saintly form the epitome of her earthly beauty. But her trials are not forgotten in this painting. At her feet rests the wheel on which she was tortured. Against the wall rests the sword with which she was beheaded.

Jan van Eyck, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

St. Michael

St. Michael is dressed in brightly coloured armour emblazoned with jewels. But what is most fascinating about Van Eyke’s representation is his outrageously coloured wings! They seem almost bird-like in their appearance and make him all the more fantastical. He stands upright with his lance and helmet in hand at the service of the Virgin and Child.

Like many devotional paintings, the donor can also be found in this picture, with the hand of St. Michael resting on his shoulder. His hands are in prayer, and he is dressed in a long, green cloak similar to the ones worn in the Burgundian court. His gown is of high quality, trimmed with fur and accented with a red velvet hood. These are all clues as to what kind of man this donor was. The man looks over to the Christ child with such dedication in his eyes, honoured to be in his presence.

Ruhrfisch at English Wikipedia, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Drunken Hercules

In contrast to the delicate beauty of the Dresden Tryptic, Peter Paul Rubens’ The Drunken Hercules is a rough portrayal of men falling from grace. Hercules, the hero of so many great stories, is portrayed here as succumbing to the vice of drink. The wine has robbed him of his strength, and he requires the help of a satyr and wood nymph to make his way safely through the forest. The painting seems to serve a moral theme to the viewer — drinking too much can have drastic consequences for even the strongest of us. But for me, it also shows that even the powerful must fall. Those close to us will carry us forward until we regain our strength to face a new day.

Peter Paul Rubens, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Memento Mori

One of my favourite Dutch still-lives from the collection is painted by Jan Davidsz. De Heem. This one is called Memento Mori, Latin for “Remember Death.” Still, lives were incredibly popular in the 1650s, and many portrayed bouquets of flowers, food, drinks, and objects placed in a balanced composition against a dark background. But when we look closer and study the symbology of every little grain of sand, rose petal or sea shell, we learn there is much more under the superficial surface of these paintings. The flowers in full bloom, their leaves are eaten by insects and on the verge of death, remind us that time isn’t to be wasted on vanity and empty splendour. Rather it’s about living and striving for virtue in all our actions. The stalks of grain on the table represent Christ and signify the resurrection. 

Jan Davidsz. de Heem, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Girl Reading a Letter at an Open Window

Johannes Vermeer is one of history’s most celebrated painters. He is known for his intricate attention to detail and his use of realistic light and shadows. Girl Reading a Letter at an Open Window is a perfect example. It was painted between 1657-1659 and depicts an everyday-looking Dutch woman. She is standing by an open window, gently holding a letter. But this painting is more than just a lovely woman. It’s a tale of betrayal and forbidden love. The open window represents the woman’s desire to escape her domestic life. The half-eaten fruit symbolizes her affair.

The letter she holds in her hands is from her lover, either planning to continue their illicit affair or perhaps to call things off once and for all. We know love is a prominent theme of this piece since x-rays have revealed that Vermeer once painted a small Cupid in the corner of the canvas but ultimately covered it up with drapes. Perhaps he wanted the imagery to be subtler, allowing the viewer to draw conclusions.

Johannes Vermeer, Girl Reading a Letter at the Open Window, 1657-59.Condition after restoration.© Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister, Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden, Photo: Wolfgang Kreische

The Procuress

Jan Vermeer’s The Procuress is a very controversial painting portraying the reality of women’s plight in the 16th century. The man in the front of the picture, perhaps a soldier, is fondling her breast in the sight of all the other men in the room. At the same moment, he drops a coin into her outstretched hand. We can assume this is payment for sex as the scene is thought to be inside a brothel. The Procuress, the old woman in the back of the frame, smiles down on the scene.

The young lady in yellow smiles meekly, but her cheeks are flushed red with fear. The closeness of all the characters in the scene is meant to make the viewer feel claustrophobic. Most of the frame is occupied by the woven oriental rug, painted to the point of photorealism. The lovely design of the rug juxtaposes the involved scenes of patrons and prostitutes. Although it is a heart-wrenching display, it is honest and beautifully painted by this grand master.

Johannes Vermeer, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Lucas Cranach, the Elder

The Dresden Old Masters Gallery houses over 50 paintings by Lucas Cranach, the Elder, making it the world’s most extensive collection of Cranach paintings. This tryptic is the story of various women martyred for their love of Christ over the years. St. Catherine is portrayed in the centre of the frame. She is the patron saint of scholars. Throughout her life, she converted over 50 pagans to Christianity in Alexandria during the 4th century. The female saints on the right side are St. Dorothea, St. Agnes and St. Cunigunda. On the left, we find St. Bara, St Usala and St. Margaret. 

Museum Cafe

If you find yourself needing a break, stop into the cafe inside the Museum. Not only does it offer up some delicious treats and local cheeses (my personal recommendation), but it also has a beautiful patio that looks out over the adjoining square. This is the perfect place to rest, recharge, and people-watch!

Whatever you are drawn to within these walls, you’ll surely find something unique. This collection of artistic treasures is indeed a wonder and should not be missed on your next trip to Dresden.

The post Complete Guide to the Best Artworks inside the Dresden Old Masters Gallery first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> https://thecreativeadventurer.com/complete-guide-to-the-best-artworks-inside-the-dresden-old-masters-gallery/feed/ 0 386 A Guide to the Prague Klementinum https://thecreativeadventurer.com/a-guide-to-the-prague-klementinum/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=a-guide-to-the-prague-klementinum https://thecreativeadventurer.com/a-guide-to-the-prague-klementinum/#respond Tue, 12 Sep 2017 14:16:11 +0000 https://thecreativeadventurer.com//a-guide-to-the-prague-klementium/ Prague has some of the most beautiful libraries in the world, and although most of them are off-limits to the public, there are tours during certain times of the day which allow bibliophiles to soak up all the history and literary treasures that lie inside these old buildings.

The post A Guide to the Prague Klementinum first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

]]> Today, we’re excited to take you on a journey to one of Prague’s most iconic and historic landmarks: The Klementinum. Prague has some of the most beautiful libraries in the world. Although most of them are off-limits to the public, there are tours during certain times of the day, allowing bibliophiles to soak up all the history and literary treasures that lie inside these old buildings.

The Klementinum is a large building complex that stretches across an entire city block. Since the 15th century, astronomers, scientists, philosophers and musicians have poured through its door to study the precious books inside. These great men of science and art came together here. Each influenced the other and developed some of the modern era’s most incredible inventions. The Klementinum is home to several important institutions, including the National Library of the Czech Republic. But it is also an architectural and cultural treasure. With its stunning Baroque facade, beautiful courtyards, and intricate decoration, the Klementinum is a true feast for the eyes. So, join us as we discover the hidden gems and hidden stories of this beautiful complex.


Table Of Contents
  1. Access & Admission
  2. History
  3. Great Mirror Chapel
  4. 2nd Floor
  5. The Great Library
  6. The Bookshelves
  7. Globes
  8. The Meridian Hall
  9. Viewpoint

Access & Admission

The only way to get into the libraries is by a guided tour (unless you’re a Czech scholar). These run about every hour and are worth every penny! For tour times and hours, visit their website.

To find the entrance to the tour, you walk through a small set of wooden doors near the church. Inside you will see a ticket booth with a cramped employee sitting behind the glass. After purchasing your ticket, you wait for your tour guide. Once they arrive, you’ll be whisked off throughout this gorgeous building.

Tickets cost: 300 Kc for Adults ($13 USD), 200 Kc ($9 USD) for Students and Seniors and children are free.

History

The Klementinum dates all the way back to the 11th century. It was formerly a tiny chapel dedicated to Saint Clement run by Dominican monks. The Hapsburg Emperor Ferdinand I wanted to help increase his power within the Roman Catholic Church and in Bohemia (now Prague). To do this, he invited the Jesuits into his city.

Wanting to make them feel more at home and give them some sense of importance, the Emperor gifted them the building now known as the Klementinum. It had a prime location, right across from the Charles Bridge, and was an excellent gift for the order.

In 1556, the library’s development began. By 1653 they had managed to build one of the most significant collections of books and the literary material in Europe. When the entire library was finished, it was the most massive building in Prague, after Prague Castle. Eventually, the Jesuits fell out with the Pope. So in 1773, the library was given over to Prague’s people and became a part of Charles University.

Great Mirror Chapel

The first room that the guide will take you into is the Great Mirror Chapel. The architecture of the Klementinum varies from room to room, as different parts of the building were built during different periods. This room, however, is an excellent example of Baroque architecture. The Mirror Chapel was built in 1724 and features ornate frescoes, mirrors, the ceiling, and intricate gilded stucco. The rust-coloured walls and peach-painted ceiling are a unique touch. They make the chamber glow and make the visitor feel warm and cozy.

Today, we’re excited to take you on a journey to one of Prague’s most iconic and historic landmarks: The Klementinum. Prague has some of the most beautiful libraries in the world. Although most of them are off-limits to the public, there are tours during certain times of the day, allowing bibliophiles to soak up all the history and literary treasures that lie inside these old buildings. The Klementinum is a large building complex that stretches across an entire city block. Since the 15th century, astronomers, scientists, philosophers and musicians have poured through its door to study the precious books inside. These great men of science and art came together here. Each influenced the other and developed some of the modern era’s most incredible inventions. The Klementinum is home to several important institutions, including the National Library of the Czech Republic. But it is also an architectural and cultural treasure. With its stunning Baroque facade, beautiful courtyards, and intricate decoration, the Klementinum is a true feast for the eyes. So, join us as we discover the hidden gems and hidden stories of this beautiful complex.

The faux marble columns along the walls each contain a beautifully framed work of art. These works of art were primarily created by Jan Hiebl, a Czech artist of little note. But Hiebl made a significant impression on the people who visit this chapel. One of the most important things to look at here is the two organs. The first was played by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart on his visits to the Klementinum.

This chapel can also be visited if you buy tickets to one of their “Classical Concerts.” These concerts are a fantastic option for visiting the Klementinum outside a guided tour. You will be treated to music from the 18th century played on the historic organ during the show. Usually performed by gifted local musicians. The very same organ played by Mozart himself now hosts new talented musicians hoping to become the following great composer!

2nd Floor

After soaking in all the beauty inside the chapel, your guide leads up the first set of narrow stairs to the 2nd floor. This is where the historic library is housed. On the way to the library, you pass by various glass cabinets of curiosity. These different house instruments are used by astronomers to explore the skies, track weather and map constellations.

The corridor is covered in ornate stucco, and the ceiling contains frescoes. Each scene is drawn from prominent literary writings, like echoes of the past, leading you down toward your destination.

Although you can’t walk inside the library and pick up any books, there are various special volumes under the glass. These examples give you a glimpse of the books you’d find on the shelves within. Each one is masterfully handpainted with perfect calligraphy and illustration on every page. Monks would spend a lifetime creating a few copies of the same book. They would disperse the copies to only a few prestigious libraries worldwide.

The Great Library

As the guide leads you to the only open set of doors, you will be immediately taken aback by the tremendous amount of things to look at inside the Great Library. The shelves housing over 20,000 books from the early 17th century onwards are a stunning display. There is a sea of baroque finishings washing over the walls.

The ceiling features a large fresco, an original part of 18th-century design. The paintings on the ceiling depict the Temple of Wisdom, a city from Greek Mythology, which was thought to have housed thousands of theological volumes dating back to 1600. Jan Hiebl, the same artist who painted the frescos in the Mirror Chapel, also did these frescos. He uses light and shadow to create a domed effect even on the flat ceiling. Hiebl spent tireless hours giving the illusion of natural sunlight pouring into space despite natural light being restricted to protect the books from damage.

The Bookshelves

The bookshelves are carved from stunning dark wood, which shines even in the dim light. Some columns are carved into spirals, topped off with gold capitals. Above the tops of each bookshelf are golden frames with the names of prominent Jesuits inscribed on them. These Jesuits were the people who helped build this impressive library.

The books in the collection consist mainly of theological volumes in various foreign languages. It also contains a Mozartiana, a book about the life of Tycho Brahe and Comenius. You’d also find historical examples of famous Czech literature. Some of the collections’ books are so rare and unique that they have been given to Google to be digitally preserved online for everyone to see.

Globes

In the centre of the room are various globes of different sizes, displaying historical diagrams and maps of the world. You can see how opinions have changed throughout the years on the map of the world. The shapes of continents would grow or shrink based on the newest technology or information. There are also several sets of celestial globes to be found here. Celestial spheres show the position of the stars in the sky.

The Meridian Hall

Although you might not want to leave, eventually, the tour guide must move on. You are taken to the next floor, which contains Meridian Hall. The Meridian Hall was an invention designed to determine and mark twelve noon. When the scientists inside would see that noon had come (based on their instruments), they would ring the bells from the top of the bell tower. This would indicate to the rest of the town that it was midday. Alongside the Meridian Hall is several weather recording devices that note the temperature as early as 1775. These are even still used today to continue to record the weather.

Viewpoint

You can mount the final, very narrow, rickety set of stairs to walk out onto the bell tower. You must climb up 172 steps to get to the top of the building. But you’ll be rewarded with a stunning 360° view of Prague’s red-topped roofs.

Being up here helps you understand where everything is in Prague. You can see all the important landmarks, and bronze diagrams help identify all the famous buildings you’re looking down at. This was so helpful since we’d see something far off in the distance and want to make a note of tracking it down once back on land.

Seeing as the tour group is so small, you have this view all to yourself once the group spreads out. It was so romantic and truly an oasis of serenity in a city which can be overwhelming and full of tourists.

A massive bronze sculpture of Atlas holds up the world on the very top of the bell tower. On our way out, we looked at the top of the tower from where we were once standing. The Klementinum and the Strahov Monastery are my two favourite landmarks in Prague. You MUST visit them if you’re ever in the city, especially if you’re a library lover like me!

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