Day One – The Highlights

St. Mark’s Square

The best place to start your tour is standing in the centre of the Piazza San Marco or St. Mark’s Square. Arrive here as early as you can bear. There is something truly magical about being here as the sun rises on the square. You’ll see the beautiful rose-gold sunlight begin to kiss the cobblestone and bricks around you. The sun seems to bring the square to life as cafe owners begin taking out their chairs and pigeons flock around gawking tourists (but don’t feed them, this is now illegal in Venice!)

Standing in the centre of the square, in front of the Basilica, you can turn around 360 degrees and see one spectacular scene on top of another. In this one small area, you’ll find the St Mark’s Basilica, the great Campanile (Belltower), the Procuratie, the Piazzetta, Doge’s Palace, Bridge of Sighs and Torre dell’ Orologio. There is rarely a time when you’ll visit the square when they aren’t some form of construction or renovation going on. With all these historic sights in one place, there is bound to be something falling apart and needing repair. Try to look past that and don’t like it ruin your experience.

Saint Mark

The square is named after the patron saint of Venice, Saint Mark. In 828, a relic of St. Mark was stolen from Alexandria and brought back to Venice by La Serenissima‘s great naval fleet. The Venetian Doge, awed by the acquisition of this precious relic, adopted Saint Mark as the new patron of Venice (whose honour had previously been given to Saint Theodore).

A city with a saintly relic immediately rose in power and prestige. Relics were the first tourist attraction of the medieval world. Pilgrims would come from all over the world to pray at the churches who preserved these relics. Pilgrims, much as tourists today, needed food and shelter and therefore brought lots of money into the city.

Piazza San Marco

A grand church to house the precious artifact began to be built in 836. The church and the nearby Doge’s palace were, even back then, the highlight of the city for visitors. And a great square was needed to further showcase the opulence the Doge wanted to project. In 1172 orchards were demolished surrounding this area and the Piazza San Marco was built. It’s been rumoured that upon visiting St. Mark’s square for the first time, Napoleon himself degreed that it was, “the drawing room of Europe“.

The Procuratie

The simplistic and yet elegant buildings along the north and south sides of the square are called the Procuratie. The Procuratie is most identifiable by its stunning arcade that wraps around this side of the square. The arcade features Byzantine arches, which are distinct for their tall and narrow structure.

The Procuratie buildings are actually three connected structures that once served as the offices of the Venetian Republic, also called La Serenissima. Today they house the Correr Museum, the Museum of the Risorgimento, and the Archeological Museum. Each one of these is an incredible place to visit but the Correr Museum is my favourite with their collection of art detailing the histories of the city of Venice.

The Lion of Venice

Throughout St. Mark’s square you’ll see various Lions of Venice, adorning doorways, columns and facades. The Lion of Venice is usually seen with his paw upon a bible as he is not just any lion, but St. Mark’s Lion. St. Mark was often referred to as a lion since he would preach the word of the lord so powerfully it almost seemed like a roar. Legend tells that St. Mark was travelling through Europe when he arrived in Venice and an angel spoke to him and told him that this place would be where his body would come to rest for eternity. His remains were originally interred in Alexandra but moved to Venice where the church was built to honour them.

Caffe Florian

Now housed inside one of the old Procuratie buildings is perhaps the most sumptuous cafes in Venice, or perhaps Europe itself. Although this cafe is by no means cheap, it’s a splurge that I think is worth it for the incredible interiors and history to be found within. The Caffe Florian was founded in 1720 and has served patrons like Charles Dickens and Lord Byron. There is a 6 euro cover charge to even enter the cafe, but along with getting to enjoy the lavish interiors, you’ll also be treated to a live orchestra which plays throughout the cafe. Palacial red velvet couches and chairs are spread out across the huge cafe, dotted throughout various antechambers. Each room is covered in ornate paintings, large Murano glass mirrors, gold foiled frames and intricate painting plastered to the ceiling.

To save a bit of money here, go right to the bar and order your food or drinks there. Although you won’t get a seat, the bar menu is vastly cheaper than the table service. An espresso at the bar will run you €5 but again, you’re here for the atmosphere. If you’d rather save your coin you can give this a miss for sure. Instead grab a coffee on your way in towards St. Mark’s square from any local cafe, to enjoy while you peruse the sights.

The Campanile

Standing guard in the centre of the square is the 323ft tall Campanile or Belltower. The low-level buildings throughout Venice are in stark contrast to the towering Campanile. Its little head pokes out at you no matter where you seem to end up in Venice. While the original tower was built in 1514, the current one is a reconstruction from 1912 after it’s collapse in 1902. It’s an incredible thing to imagine that such a tall structure could survive for so long-standing atop the shifting waters. But it wasn’t water which proved to be the biggest enemy of the tower, it was lighting. Lightning struck the tower multiple times over the years causing enormous fires and severe internal damage to the structure.

The tall base of the tower is designed with a fluted shaft that reaches up towards the belfry. Along one corner, one each side of the tower, are stacked arched windows looking out over the square. Inside the belfry are five large bells. Each one was used to call the people of Venice to attention. The bells have their own distinctive name and special significance. The Renghiera bell announced executions; the Mezza Terza would declare that a session of the Senate was taking place; the Nona sounded the midday hour; the Trottiera was used to assemble the Maggiore Consiglio and the Marangona, the largest of the bells, rang to mark the beginning and end of the working day.  

The Tower’s Crown

Above the arches of the belfry is another level of brickwork decorated with various sculptures on either side. On one side you’ll see the Lion of St. Mark and on the other the female representation of Venice, in the shape of the lady Justice. The golden weathervane which crowns the tower is the angel Gabriel, reaching out towards the citizens below.

Torre Dell’Orologio

Turn to the north-east corner of the square, and look up at the bright blue and gold details decorating the Torre Dell’Orologio. The morning light, the sunlight simply glints off the golden dial. The clock was built in the 15th century when mechanical clocks were a symbol of wealth and power. The clock faces out towards the water so that any foreign ships would be able to see it from the canals as they past through.

Atop the tower containing the clock, you can see two small bronze figures who carry large hammers in their hand which move upon the hour to strike the bell. One of the figures is a young man and the other an old man to symbolize the passage of time. Once more we see the image of the Lion of Venice above the clock, set against a blue sky of golden stars. Below the lion is the figure of the Virgin Mary with the baby Jesus wrapped in her arms. On either side of her are two blue panels with the time represented in roman numerals on the left and in Arabic numerals on the right, as was traditional at the time when the Byzantine influences were ripe throughout Italy.

The Zodiac Symbols on the Clock

The most impressive feature of the clock is the blue and gold engraved clock face with fantastically detailed signs of the zodiac encircling it. The large dial on the clock is set with the huge face of the sun. The dial, emblazed with the image of the sun, revolves around the zodiac signs and rather than showing the time, it marks the date. In the centre is a small gold orb representing the sun and below it, a smaller orb representing the phases of the moon.

St Mark’s Basilica

St. Mark’s Basilica is famously one of the most precious Byzantine treasures of the time. Within it, preserved by time, are so many aspects of history, art culture and faith. The most notable element of the design of the church are the powerful domes that are set against the sky. The bulb-shaped domes with their finials lanterns give the church that middle eastern appearance and character which defined the Byzantine period.

The exterior of St. Mark’s Basilica can be studied by its three distinctive areas; the lower level, upper level and the domes. The lower level mosaics are all scenes from the life of Saint Mark, for whom the church derives its name. In the central arch where the enormous doorway is located there is the largest mosaic which depicts the Last Judgment. The original mosaic would have been made in the 13th century but this current incarnation from the 19th-century. The portals which lead into the church are stacked with various colours of marble, creating a foreshortening perspective effect. Like you are being pulled into the church.

Mosaics of St. Mark’s Basilica

On either side of the central portal, the mosaics each depict the life of St. Mark. The first one on the left is the only one on the façade still surviving from the 13th century. The lunettes above the first floor depict the life of Christ. The lower level features dozens of marble columns. These rich columns are decorated in sumptuous vegetal motifs.

The Bronze Horses

The upper-level balcony, above the main entrance, also features four bronze horses. There are the Horses of Saint Mark-Lysippos and were stolen from Constantinople in 1252. The ones outside the church today are actually replicas of the original horses, as the originals were suffering terribly from the elements. They were brought inside the church museum in order to preserve them for years to come. The original bronze horses date all the way back to classical antiquity. It is rumoured that perhaps they once were positioned pulling an emperors chariot atop the Arch of Trajan in Rome. The Horses were one of the many trophies collected during the Crusades.

Above the horses, the ogee arch is decorated with blue glass and golden stars. In fro of this starry sky is the gilded winged lion, the symbol of Venice. Above the great lion, standing brightly against the blue sky, are Saint Mark and his six angels.

Entering St. Mark’s Basilica

If you are interested in going inside the Basilica, be warned the queue can get very long. But if you want to save yourself a bit of time you can book a timed entry ticket online that only costs €6.00. Well worth it, in my opinion, to be sure you are the first one in the door, leaving the rest of your day completely open.

If you don’t buy your ticket in advance, you will have to line up. The wait time is, on average, about 45 minutes but the earlier you arrive in the morning, the less of a line you’ll run into. When we arrived, early in the day, the line moved swiftly and we barely had to wait at all. But of course, this depends on the time of year you visit.

Interior Mosaics

Upon entering the church the first thing you’ll notice is the overwhelming amount of golden mosaics covering the floor, all the way up to the domed ceiling. There are over 85,000 square feet of mosaics in St. Mark’s Basilica. The light reflects off the surface of the glass and depending on the time of the day, the light changes the effect and the appearance of the interior. So depending on when you visit you might get a different experience from someone else. So much gold was used in its construction of the church that the residents of Venice would call it the Chizea d’Oro or, the Gold Church.

Because the Basilica was built during the Byzantine age, and architectural methods weren’t as advanced as they are now, you’ll notice large thick walls, hundreds of columns and the heavy use of marble. They needed only the strongest of materials to help keep the multi-domed ceiling standing.

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Inside the church are the treasures of the fourth crusade on the holy land. During the 4th-century crusade, Venice deemed itself the holiest place on earth. And therefore all the treasures the crusading armies found were brought to Venice. One such treasure is the Pala d’Oro. The Pala d’Oro is decorated with 1,300 pearls, 300 emeralds, 300 sapphires, 400 garnets, 100 amethysts, plus rubies and topazes. A glittering masterpiece.

Porta Della Carta

Coming back out of the church, into St Mark’s square, be sure to take a moment to study the Porta della Carta on the side of the church. In 1442 this was the ceremonial entrance to the church was built to connect the church to the Doge’s Palace. The doorway is dripping in gothic ornamentation, with two tall, thin pinnacles flanking either side of the statue of the Doge Francesco Foscari. The Doge is seen kneeling before the Lion of Saint Mark. Below each pinnacle is are statues of cardinal virtues.  

Doge’s Palace

A Venetian Doge is something that many of you may not have heard of before. A Doge is pretty much like an English Duke, they served as the leader of the Republic of Venice from 726 to 1797. The Doge would rule over Venice from his seat of power inside the incredible Doge’s Palace. Today the building serves a public museum.

The building itself is a wonder to behold. Despite the enormity of the upper structure, it looks almost weightless as it is supported by the delicate pink Verona marble columns. The columns are decorated with a lacy pattern, making them look even more fragile. The top of the building is adorned with spiked merlons and looks like frosted meringue atop a cake.

Walk through the arcade and study the individual capitals of the columns on the right side.

Piazzetta 

Past the Basilica, walking south towards the water, you can find the Piazzetta. The Piazzetta is the smaller square to the south. In the middle of the square are two large two columns, made in red marble. Between these two columns is where death sentences were announced during the medieval ages.

At the top of the columns are two statues, each depicting one of the patron saints of Venice; St Mark and St Theodore, on the left and right respectively if you’re facing the water. St. Mark is depicted as the winged lion of Venice and St. Theodore can be seen standing atop, of all things, a crocodile. In his hand, he also holds a spear which we can assume he used to slay the giant crocodile. Saint Theodore is more commonly known for slaying a dragon, not a crocodile, but perhaps the Venetians artists of the time who made this carving had little knowledge of what a real dragon looked like, so instead, they simply carved the next best thing, a crocodile.

The Bridge of Sighs

Walk around the Doge’s Palace until you turn to face the Bridge of Sighs. The bridge of sighs created to join the interrogation rooms of the Doge’s Palace to the prison across the canal. If you were found guilty by the Serenissima you were set to the prison, but upon crossing the bridge, were allowed to look out at Venice one last time. Two small, square windows on the bridge allowed prisoners this one moment of reflection, before facing their possible lifetime of imprisonment. The bridge’s windows are covered in a tightly knit wrought iron bars, so no one could escape.

Day Two – Exploring the Hidden Canals

Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo

Continue heading north until you reach the Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. This small palazzo has become an iconic viewpoint in Venice. The palazzo’s incredible, honeycomb-like spiral staircase, with a fantastic balcony at the top, provides one of the most amazing views across the city, and over St. Mark’s square. The staircase is called the “Scala Contarini del Bovolo” or “or the snail”.

Built in the 15th century for the wealthy Contarini family, the house became instantly notable for its unique outer staircase. In 1952 Orson Welles also fell in love with the house and even featured it in his film adaptation of Shakespeare’s Othello. The Palazzo was closed for many years but in 2016 it opened up its doors to the public. For three euros you can climb the stairs to the top and get a snap of the great landscape.

Explore the Side Canals

Make your way through this small island, heading north and slightly eastward. I don’t want to give you exact directions since exploring and getting lost in these small, neighbourhood streets is half the fun. You’ll discover amazing balconies pouring over with brightly coloured flowers. You might uncover a few secrets, etched into the walls of the alleyways. Or even discover your new favourite pastry shop. While there are some specific sights to see in Venice, exploring these side streets is a joy unto its own.

The Grand Canal

Continue walking north along the Corte Theatro, through one of the darkest brick tunnels, until you emerge out into the bright light of the Grand Canal. As this is the first time we are really faced with the view of the Grand Canal, I suppose we should talk a little bit about this ever so important waterway. The Grand Canal essentially splits the city of Venice into two. While the original waterway which ran through here was no doubt much narrower, the ancient river is thought to be a branch of the Brenta. Ancient Venetian fishermen were once the only ones who lived here, in simple stilt houses.

It wasn’t until the 9th century when the Doge moved his palace into the more protected area of what would become St Mark’s square, that the canal was widened. The canal needed to be larger in order to make room for the large ships needed for the construction of the palace. The canal became less of a fishing spot and more like a ritzy main street. Wealthy families began buying up property and building their huge manors along the Grand Canal.

History of the Grand Canal

The grand canal was the entryway into the city and the Venetian Republic wanted every building lining it to demonstrate the city’s power, wealth and artistic sensibilities. Like a parade of the best architecture Europe had to offer. This huge canal is now flanked by 170 illustrious buildings, which are from as early as the 13th century to the 18th century.

Rialto Bridge

Continue along with the Riva del Ferro, walking along the edge of the Grand Canal. Emerging from the last arcade you’ll be greeted almost immediately by the sight of the bright white stone of the Rialto bridge. The Rialto Bridge is the most famous of all of Venice’s canal bridges. It is also the oldest of the four major bridges which connect the various districts of Venice. The original wooden bridge installed here was built here in 1173. Back then it went by the name Ponte Della Moneta, which means “money bridge“. The reason for this was that on one side of the canal once stood the largest mint in Venice. People would flood into their area and across the bridge at all hours of the day to deposit and take out their cash!

The old wooden bridge was split down the center and could be raised on either side, to allow for tall ships to enter into these narrow canals. This was of the utmost importance especially when the Rialto Market opened, as boats would come in in mass to deliver fresh fruits, vegetables and fish. But as time past, the wooden bridge just wasn’t up to snuff though. After years and years of wear, riots, fires and crowds eventually it collapsed.

New Rialto Bridge

The new Rialto bridge design was completed in 1551. The architect who designed it did away with the raised wooden design and instead favoured stone as it was more durable and could last the test of time. Since the stone bridge couldn’t be raised, he needed to ensure that the two inclined ramps would be tall enough to accommodate the galley ships that needed to pass through. The result is this grand archway which looks like a gilded enclosure around a picturesque living portrait. The stone structure also featured a covered portico on top with rows of shops on either side. The addition of shops here meant that their rent could help pay for the maintenance of the bridge going forward. Between the inclined set of porticos is a large arch, like the crown atop this stunning structure.

While the bridge has become somewhat of a tourist trap, with stores selling souvenirs lining the entire walkway, early in the morning when they are all closed, this bridge still keeps its magic. There are these two little nooks on the bottom of the bridge, where you can sit right under it, besides the water. This is one of the most amazing places to watch boats and gondolas float by with stacks of fruits and vegetables coming into the market as dawn casts itself on the city. The top of the bridge is also one of the most iconic spots for pictures in Venice.

Mercado di Rialto

Now that you’ve been introduced to the look of the city, it’s time to meet the people of Venice. And there is no better place to get a peek into the real lives of the residence of Venice than to head to the Rialto Market! The Rialto Market is one of the last remaining fresh food markets in the city and as such, is a bustling place for locals to come and buy their food for the day. The outdoor portion of the market is where you’ll find seasonal fruits and vegetables. If you’re looking for a snack there is nothing more refreshing than a basket of freshly picked fruits!

But the Rialto Market is much more than just a place to get some of the best food in the city! It is also a place of great historical value. Of all the rich bankers and traders who lived in the region, the most famous were the Rivoalto family. The Rivoalto traders were one of the first families to come into the lagoon to set up a trading post. They picked this location because it was situated along the bend of the lagoon. This meant it was located on higher ground and therefore was spared from some of the floodings that other parts of the island experienced. The first known market took place here in 1097. Because the family didn’t have to constantly rebuild themselves, the Rivoaltos grew in prominence and wealth over time, eventually having the very spot named after them.

Pescheria

Opposite the green awning of the outdoor market is the neo-gothic fish hall, or Pescheria, built in the early 1900s. Outside the red brick building there is still to this day a marble plaque which you should study before heading inside. This plaque denotes the different types of fish which were allowed to be legally sold here when the marketplace was first built. Certain fishes were protected from overfishing and therefore there was a limit to the amount any one person could buy.

The fish hall is a soaring building with richly ornamented arches surrounding the exterior. Inside the columns continue throughout the interior, making a simple stone building feel rich and illustrious. Fresh fish has long been one of the most important resources in Venice. Right outside their door, this amazing product is caught daily. It can’t get much more local than that!

Buying food at the Market

The market place was facing the chance of being shut down a few years ago, due to a possible canal expansion for cruise ships. Thankfully the citizens were able to convince the city to stop this and the market was saved. But as more and more people choose to shop at larger grocery stores off the island markets like this always face the chance of being closed. So if you’re going to visit, be sure you buy at least a little something. We bought some fresh raspberries and cherries and they were absolutely delicious!

Basilica dei Frari

But probably what brings most people to San Polo is the Basilica dei Frari or Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari. But most people just call it the “Frari” for short. The church is the beating heart of this neighbourhood. In 1231 the Doge Jacopo Tiepolo donated some land to the Franciscans. The original church he had built was small and as the Franscians rose to power, they demolished it in exchange for a larger, more impressive design. The current version was built in the 14th-century in high Venetian Gothic style.

At the back of the church is the great campanile, which is the second tallest tower in the city, after San Marco’s tower. The bell tower was built in 1396 and still stands today! The unassuming facade might fool you into thinking at first blush this church isn’t very important. But in actuality, it is perhaps one of the most significant churches in the city.

Titian Paintings in Venice

Many Doges were buried here under the watchful eye of masterful works of art by the painter Titian. Titian, who was a Venetian himself, painted the great altarpiece inside the church. The Assumption of the Virgin by Titian is one of the first things your eye is drawn towards as you enter the church. It sits behind the high altar, lit by the glow of the stained glass windows behind it. This piece is perhaps the best example of Titan’s masterful work. Setting the standard for Venetian art during the Renaissance.

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Entry into the Church

There is a small fee to enter the church (€ 3,00) but it is more than worth it to gaze upon the painting the Assumption of the Virgin in situ. When I first saw this painting in person, it was a moment of awe for me. Some paintings, like the Mona Lisa perhaps, don’t live up to the hype. But this one is even more grandiose and firey in person than it was on any page or screen.

Titian died of the plague at the age of 94 and a memorial to his life and death stands inside the great basilica. The monument is gigantic! A version of the Assumption painting is carved into the stone behind an image of the painter crowed with a laurel wreath. On either side of the artist are two figures which represent the universal nature and the genius of knowledge. The other four figures are Painting, Sculpture, Graphic Art and Architecture.

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Dorsoduro District

The Dorsoduro district is located on the bottom of the Venetian islands. This area borders the Grand Canal as well as the Venetian Lagoon, making it a prime spot for traders to live. While it’s not as flashy as the other districts, think of this as the blue-collar neighbourhood, I still find it to be one of the most charming areas in Venice. Dorsoduro lacks the pretensions of the other neighbourhood. Since it’s home to Venice’s Ca’ Foscari University you’ll also find the new blood of Venetian society, its students, who liven up the streets with modern music, food and entertainment.

Ponte dei Pugni

Continuing south, we’ll be going to pass over the Ponte dei Pugni. I love the view from this bridge. If you look towards the west you can see the bell tower from the church of Santa Maria del Carmelo. On either side of the bridge are a pair of footsteps marked on the corner. This marked the beginning of where the great fight between Venice’s two rival family factions took place in 1705. Thereafter, many more fights took place here. Opponents would stand on either side of the bridge, where the footsteps are now marked. Originally, there were no railings on this bridge, so when the two opponents would fight, the first one to fall off the bridge and into the water as the loser.

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Cantine del Vino già Schiavi

By this time, we are approaching the evening, but its not time for dinner just yet. Oh no, first we must have aperitif! And one of the best places to get it in Dorsoduro is Cantine del Vino già Schiavi. This bar sells Cicchetti (small snacks) which include Venetian classics like crostini topped with salt cod and wild garlic, pistachio cream or alioli with flower petals. Grab an Aperol spritz to drink while standing at the bar to feel very much like a local.

Calle Nuova Sant’Agnese

Head northeast until you reach the Calle Nuova Sant’Agnese. This narrow street is filled with shops. Being so far away from the touristy areas, these stores are known to seel authentic Venetian goods but at reasonable prices. In addition to the tourist shops, you’ll also find unique boutiques which are a great way to support local businesses.

Basilica di Santa Maria Della Salute

If you’re still feeling up for it, continue walking through Dorsoduro, eastwards, until you reach the Basilica di Santa Maria Della Salute. This stunning white marble church is not only a sight to see, but where you can get a great view of Saint Mark’s square, where we first started the tour.

In 1630 Venice was being ravaged by the plague and there was no signs of it stopping. At the time, one of the ways people thought you could stop the plague was by making an offering to god and pray he would send deliverance to the city. So, the Republic of Venice built the church to Our Lady of Health as a last resort. Eventually, the plague period past and the city was able to start rebuilding itself. Nearly a third of the population of Venice died during the plague. Those that survived would remember that harrowing experience forever. Since the church was made in honour of stopping the plague, most of the art and symbolism you’ll find throughout the church in some way refers to death or the plague, making it a very uniquely themed church. 

The Dome of Basilica di Santa Maria Della Salute

The church is most notable for its humongous white dome which dominates the sky. The dome, which almost seems to defy gravity, became a symbol of inspiration for artists in the city. To support the huge dome and enormous marble church, 1,000,000 wooden piles were used to hold up the floating building. At the apex of the central pediment stands a statue of the Virgin Mary, looking out of the city. The group of figures in the scene is stunningly theatrical and it really looks like a moment frozen in time.

If you choose to come inside be sure to check out the statuary group at the high altar. This stone scene depicts depicting The Queen of Heaven expelling the Plague and was crafted in 1670. 

Zattere

To finish the evening, walk down south towards the far end of the island. The stone promenade which flanks the water’s edge is called the Zattere. Zattere in Italian means rafts. In the 16th century timber would arrive in the city on large rafts. Timber was not only used to constructed the walls of grand palazzos and houses in Venice, it was literally the ground on which the houses were built on. So timber was one of the most important imports in the city. Timber was also used to make gondolas up until the 18th century. Suffice to say, the city was literally built around the timber industry and therefore its importance is not to be ignored. The earliest parts of the Zattere date as far back as 1520! Today the wide promenade is a great place to watch the sunset against the waters of the canals.

Trattoria San Basilio

If you’re feeling like you would like to dine somewhere close to your accommodation there are Vaporetto stops all along the Fondamenta Zattere. But if you’re looking for something special along the water’s edge, but away from the touristy hub, you should check out Trattoria San Basilio.

This down to earth restaurant is located inside the corner of one of the older buildings in the Zattere. It barely looks like a restaurant at all except for the awning and few tables and chairs out front. But don’t let its modesty fool you, here you’ll find a relaxing atmosphere, friendly staff, and best of all, traditional Venetian cuisine. Their seafood spaghetti with mussels, clams and squids, tastes so fresh you’d swear the food jumped right onto your plate straight from the water. Try to get a spot outside to enjoy the sunset or the boats as they drive past into the moonlight.

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Phew, well that brings us to the end of this tour! Hopefully, if you packed this all into one day you found things along the way to return to tomorrow to investigate further! Let me know which neighbourhood was your favourite or what you’re most looking forward to visiting!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post Escape to Venice: Your Ultimate Guide to the Perfect 48 Hours in the Floating City – Steal This Itinerary Today! first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

My favourite places to shop when travelling are stores that have a history. A rich tapestry of time that makes everything they sell so important! Most of these businesses have been open for multiple generations and represent the best of that country. Things which people have come to love for years and years, so you know it’s the good stuff! It is like taking a piece of history home with you! So come with us now to discover my favourite Historic Shops and the souvenirs to buy which are so much more interesting for your friends and family than any beard oil or robe will ever be! Many of these shops have online stores so even if you’re not travelling there directly, you can still buy something really special for Christmas.

Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy | Florence, Italy

Stepping into the Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy is about as close to going back in time as you’ll get. The old shop in Florence prides itself on being the world’s oldest pharmacy, which opened in 1221! Back then, there was a small Dominican Order who lived in the connecting Church of Santa Maria Novella. Like many orders of monks, they had their own herb gardens where they grew a variety of medicinal plants. Using these plans, the monks created herbal concoctions and started selling them to the public. Their treatments actually worked for minor, everyday nuisances like stomach pains and headaches. Even today, many people still use herbal treatments to help with their body ailments. But also created from these herbs and fresh flowers were sensational (literally) perfumes.

The Perfumerie

In 1612 an official retail operation was opened where they began selling items aside from medicine. Everything from perfume to potpourri and other toiletries could be created from their ancient garden. Today, you can still purchase the very same perfumes as medieval Florentines wore back in 1621! The Acqua della Regina scent uses the same recipe the Dominican monks made in 1533 for Caterina de Medici. Caterina de Medici commissioned the perfume when she married Enrico di Valois and moved to France. The fresh citrus bouquet helped remind her of home when she was far away. And as we all know, smell is perhaps the best wall to recall a memory.

Angeli di Firenze is a more recent fragrance inspired by the Florentine people. The “Angels of Florence” were a group of young people who came to the aid of the entire city after a devastating flood in 1966. The banks of the Arno river broke, flooding the city. But the flooding was not just water, but thick destructive mud. Some areas were entrenched up to 22 feet deep. Museums, churches and other historic sites were on the brink of losing precious relics, but these young people worked 24 hours a day to ensure they saved all that needed to be rescued. The fragrance was created on the 40th anniversary of the flood and contains a bouquet of sweet, fruity notes. A polar opposite to those muddy smells the workers must have experienced. I wear this perfume anytime I want to feel like a hero!

Livraria Bertrand | Lisbon, Portugal

Inside the blue Azulejo tiled building in the centre of Lisbon, hides the oldest bookstore in the world! Opened in 1732, in the shopping district of Chiado, Livraria Bertrand welcomed people into their store to browse their incredible selection of books. Sadly, their original store was destroyed in 1755 during a devastating earthquake. They had to move out temporarily but were able to move back into their original location in 1773. It only took them 20 years to restore the store back to its former glory!

For over a hundred years, this place has been a favourite hangout of Portuguese writers. Walking inside, you feel like you’re entering an ancient cave. Look up to admire the ancient brick vaults and arched ceilings. Although most of the books they carry here are in Portuguese, they also have a small English section with popular titles. If you buy a book at the store, they will give you a sticker to place inside the book to show that you purchased it at the oldest bookstore in the world.

Even if you don’t want to buy a book, there is a cute little cafe at the back of the shop where you can sit inside and enjoy looking at all the pretty titles stacked on tall wooden shelves. Bookstores and libraries are some of the most peaceful places in the world and are the best place to come for a bit of downtime amid busy travel days.

Pfunds Molkerei | Dresden, Germany

I’ve been singing the praises of Dresden ever since my first visit! It was such a surprising town and the discovery of this place was just one of the many joyful stops we made along the way. Pfunds Molkieri, covered floor to ceiling in the most incredible tiles and Meissen porcelain, is the oldest dairy shop in East Germany. It was built back in 1879 and was the first place where Germans could buy high-quality, concentrated milk. Although the dairy was mostly destroyed in WWII, the family made sure to rebuild in the exact same fashion as the original. Now, visitors can come to see and taste the extraordinary delicacies inside Pfunds Molkieri. 

Guests can try different kinds of milk and cheeses from farms across Germany. Bringing home cheese as a gift for a loved one might prove pretty difficult. Not only does it requires refrigeration but most international countries will not allow you to bring in dairy products through customs. Luckily, Pfunds Molkieri also carries a wonderful selection of milk soaps made from that same famous herd of German cows. Milk soaps are gentle on the skin, a natural exfoliant, help prevent acne and are rich in nutrients! A wonderful stocking stuffer for your Christmas morning.

Maiasmokk | Tallinn, Estonia

Located in the historic quarter of Tallinn, Maiasmokk (which means ‘Sweet tooth‘) is the oldest café in Estonia. The regal cafe has been in operation since 1864. Inside, the interior feels so sumptuous. Like having a coffee in Versaille! The intricate ornate mirrored ceiling reflects the gorgeous old tiled floors, and rich wooden furnishings. The cafe is a true slice of history as it has remained unchanged for almost a century.

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While Maiasmokk serves all the coffees and teas you’d expect, its most popular item is marzipan. The cafe even features a museum dedicated to the history of marzipan. In the 19th century, this was where the Russian Imperial family came to get their marzipan. The almond-based sugary treat lasts forever, making it a great gift to bring home!

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Tsuen Tea | Uji, Japan

When you think of Japan, one of the first things that you might think of is a cup of green tea. And in Uji, Japan (just outside Kyoto), you can visit the world’s oldest tea shop, Tsuen Tea. Tsuen Tea opened here in 1160, although the building which you can visit today is a later construction from 1672.

The Tsuen family were descendants of a great samurai who was the guardian of the ancient Uji Bridge. The family lived adjacent to the bridge and opened a small tea shop next door where they would greet travellers. And serve them tea. Inside the Edo period shop, you can still see ceramic tea jars that are several hundred years old sitting along the shelves. Be sure to pay your respects to the old Tsuen samurai, whose wooden statues still stands proudly inside on display.

Legatoria Piazzesi | Venice, Italy

Tucked away in on the Campiello Feltrina San Marco is Venice‘s oldest paper shop; Legatoria Piazzesi. This old stationary shop has been making paper-based wonders since 1851. It is still in operation today and offers onsite book-binding services as well as hand-printed sheets of ornamented paper. The ornate handmade papers are so beautiful they could simply be placed in a frame as they look like a work of art. But even better, they can be used by intrepid journalists and scrapbookers.

The owners are pretty strict, and this is a place where you should only enter if you intend to buy something. For those who just prefer to browse, stick to peeking in the windows. They always have lovely displays of their bookbinding, and you can usually poke your head inside the door to at least check out the stock of papers overflowing from all the shelves. This isn’t done out of malice. Handmade paper is super delicate, and now that the shop is somewhat of a tourist destination, they don’t want any overcrowding. The store is tiny and their products can easily be damaged.

Il Marmoraro | Rome, Italy

All along Via Margutta you might spot unique stone signs to mark the various restaurants and shops along the street. These are all created inside Il Marmoraro. The owners have been here making custom-made signs for over 60 years! But the tradition of these stone signs dates back hundreds of years. In ancient Rome, legislative acts were written on bronze tablets and then displayed on Capitol Hill. These old tablets had a very distinct ancient roman style script. This became the defacto “font” used in Rome. It went to be inscribed on stone columns, gravestones and even street sights. And today, Il Marmoraro keeps up the tradition, still making signs using that ancient hand-carved typography.

The owner doesn’t speak much English but happily greets everyone who comes into the shop with a smile. For only €15, he will make you a custom sign in the same style as the ancient ones. You can have pretty much anything written upon as long as it’s not too many characters. If you arrive early, your personalized stone tablet will be ready for you before the end of day!

Caza das Vellas Loreto | Lisbon, Portugal

Happening upon the Caza das Vellas Loreto while in Lisbon was one of the highlights of my trip. My eyes were drawn to the curiously shaped vibrant candles in the window and I poked my head inside. The tiny shop feels like stepping into an old wardrobe. The entire place is only three meters wide! But stuffed within the glass cabinets lining the walls are colourful stacks of wax candles. Above the cashier at the back of the shop is a large golden set of numbers with the date 1789 written upon it. That is the date when the shop first opened. And they’ve been doing things almost the very same way ever since.

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In addition to the multitude of tapered candles, they also have seasonal designs to delight their customers. Their Christmas collection is a personal favourite and a wonderful way to add some unique flair to your dining table. And since the candles only cost a few euros, apiece it’s a great gift to buy for your friends and family.

À la Mère de Famille | Paris, France

The world’s oldest chocolate shop stands on the cusp of the famous Montmartre neighbourhood in Paris. A la Mère de Famille opened in 1761 by Pierre-Jean Bernard. The gold lettering outside the shop shines in the sunlight and beckons visitors from down the road. The stunning typography, against that beautiful bright green paint, has stood the test of time and still looks like a gem in the centre of the neighbourhood.

Today there are 12 other branches of the chocolate store across the city, but this is the only one you should seek! It is by far the most beautiful, with its antique shelves still stacked with vintage jars and lovely old brass fittings that have barely changed in 260 years. One of the best times to visit the shop is during the holidays when the chocolatiers develop unique sweet creations to delight and devour.

The Oldest Sweet Shop | Pateley Bridge, England

There are some places whose name says it all, and the Original Old Sweet Shop in Pateley Bridge, England, is one of those places. They are the official World Guinness record holder for the oldest continuously trading sweet shop, opened in 1827. Glass jars line the shelves, containing brightly coloured sweets with antique labels.

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In addition to holding this record, they lean into the concept of selling retro sweets that bring a wave of nostalgia for many older visitors or for the younger generations are a chance to sample a piece of history. Many of these sweets use the original recipes and are even created using old copper pans.

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Dulceria de Celaya | Mexico City, Mexico

Dulcería de Celaya is a tiny, old shop selling traditional Mexican candies and sweets. It opened in Mexico City in 1874. Walking into the shop, nothing has changed in over 100 years. When the family-run shop opened, the candy was made in a small, improvised factory using wooden shovels, copper saucepans and a minature oven. They could only produce so much daily, often only one candy tray. But the sweets were so popular that they would sell out daily. As the demand rose, they expanded their production to meet the city’s needs.

Even today, they produce candy in the same way it was made in the beginning, out of that tiny kitchen. The smell of fresh pineapples, strawberries, guavas, and coconut fills the air when you walk in the doors. It’s intoxicating. The candy is very well-priced, so even if you don’t recognize anything, just let the smells guide you and try whatever your eye is drawn to.

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Schönbrunn Palace

Schönbrunn Palace was the primary summer residence of the Habsburg rulers, located in Hietzing, Vienna. The name Schönbrunn means “beautiful spring” as the palace was located beside a large freshwater reserve. The palace is perhaps best known for the 1,441 fantastical Baroque and Rococo interiors. The amazingly preserved nature of the palace has been deemed a UNESCO world heritage site. You can walk through the palace room by room through Google Arts and Culture virtual tour. To support the tour, you can go to the palace’s website to get more information on the history of each room. On the site, you can get details on the design of the interior and the incredible decorative arts which embellsih each of the incredible rooms.

If you would prefer a video tour, then you can watch the 4K video below. This video leads you throughout the exterior and interior of the palace. The beautiful classical music playing throughout provides an immersive experience. With the music surrounding you, one can better imagine what it would have been like to attend a lavish court ball in the palace.

Palace of Versailles

The Palace of Versailles was the main royal residents for the kings and queens of France since 1682. The palace was built under Louis XIV, who originally owned a small hunting lodge on the grounds. Over the years, he transformed the small lodge into this incredible chateau! Google Arts and Culture have set up an amazing set of stories, tours, photo galleries, and more to help visitors digitally experience the history and wonder that is Versaille.

If you’re looking for something absolutely 21st century, then you need to check out “VersaillesVR The Palace is Yours.” On this app, Versaille has been captured in VR. This allows anyone with a VR headset to explore the palace in 360°. Everywhere you move your head, the camera follows like you are really there. You can see the King and Queen’s State Apartments, climb onto the stage in the Royal Opera House, discover the Hall of Mirrors, and walk right up to tapestries, paintings, sculptures and furniture! You can even switch to night mode to explore the palace by the light of the chimney fires.

If you don’t own a VR headset, you can still explore the rooms in 360° using the website Poly. On this site, you can click on a variety of Versaille’s interior rooms and explore them in detail. There are even info icons that are clickable to see more information. From there you are able to learn all about the history of the rooms you’re exploring.

Buckingham Palace

Pretty much everyone has heard the name Buckingham Palace, but I’m guessing far fewer of you have been inside. Buckingham Palace, located in London, is the royal residence of the Kings and Queens of England. If you’ve been watching the Netflix series, ‘The Crown‘ you’ll be even more interested to learn and see the REAL interiors which the show tries its best to emulate.

The palace is home to 775 rooms, the most lavish of which are the State Rooms. These are used for official and state entertaining. They are only open to the public during August and September. The reason for this is that the royal family spends their summers in Balmoral and are not in royal residence. Since the public has such a small window to view the rooms they remain a rare sight to see. But not anymore!

The Royal Collection Trust has created an online gallery and tour of the palace’s State Rooms. Some of the rooms can be explored in 360° so you can look all around you like you were really there! Throughout the scenes, you can click on the information icons to get more details about the space.

Doge’s Palace

Found in the fairytale city of Venice is the incredible Doge’s Palace. A Doge was the Venetian chief magistrate and the closest thing the city would get to have their own King. The palace was built as his residences in the center of Venice, right on St. Mark’s Square. It was originally built in 1340 but modified many times throughout the centuries. In 1923 it was transformed into a museum with some of the cities most precious works of art. Today, you can view the interiors of the palace through a Google Arts and Culture virtual tour. With this guide you can explore and learn all about the history of the building as well as walk through their masterful gothic interiors.

If you’re looking for a more complete tour of the palace, then head over to Musement for one of their guided virtual tours. With this tour, you can explore the Doge’s Palace along with a complete audio narration. To go along with the audio track are beautiful pictures of the building, as well as satellite and views of the palace and its surroundings. Through the power of storytelling, you’ll really feel like you’re there.

Pena Palace

I’ve been lucky enough to visit many different palaces throughout my travels. But my favourite of them all has got to be Pena Palace! Located outside of Lisbon, in the town of Sintra, Pena Palace is the ultimate in romantic castles. The palace was built atop the foundations of an old monastery. King Ferdinand took ownership of the land in 1838 and set out to transform the ruins into a fantastical summer residence for his family.

The bright red, yellow and purple-grey colours of the facade immediately made it so unique. The multicoloured Portuguese tile, Azulejo, add another magical touch that makes the palace such a visual draw. Today you can view the palace from high above as if you were flying over it in a helicopter. AirPano gives us a bird’s eye view over the top of this amazing palace. From up high you can study parts of the structure that you’d never be able to see otherwise.

If you’re are looking for a more informative tour, you can check out my Ultimate Self Guided tour. I have so many pictures and a detailed account of my time there. While it was written as a guide for people visiting the site in person, with all the pictures and descriptions I think you’ll be able to imagine what it’s like to really be there.

The Château of Chambord

The Château de Chambord is one of the great palaces of France. Built in the 16th century for Francis I, the place is located in the center of the stunning Loire Valley. The palace blends French Renaissance architecture with traditional medieval structures. The most iconic part of the castle is surely the 800 sculpted columns and elaborately decorated roof. Francis, wanted these columns to resemble the skyline of Constantinople. The Google Arts and Culture exhibit studies the history of the castle. It features a multitude of archaeological discoveries, which delves into the wonders of its construction. Seeing the palace in both photographs and architectural layouts allows you to appreciate the technical skill which was involved in creating such a masterpiece. And hundreds of years ago, without modern technology to boot!

Once you’ve finished reading the article, you can head inside the castle and explore it virtually. My favourite part of this castle is all the intricately sculpted bits of stone decor. Near the grand staircase, you’ll find 200 finials and a patterned ceiling with a variety of characters, both mythological and religious, dotting the vaults. Looking down on you like little spies.

Bolsover Castle

Bolsover Castle, located in the small town of Bolsover in the English countryside, is known as the “little castle.” The name comes from the fact the main “castle” structure is surrounded by these large fortifications. The juxtaposition of the expansive courtyard and huge winged terrace makes the castle appear even smaller. The castle was built in the 17th century above the ruins of a 12th-century medieval castle. Today, it remains one of the best examples of Jacobean architecture. The palace was built as a retreat for banqueting and pleasure by William Cavendish, 1st Duke of Newcastle. While the castle might not strike you as anything special right away, its secrets are hidden inside. William was obsessed with creating puzzles to flatter and amuse his guests. The Google Arts and Culture exhibit aims to help you unravel the mysteries inside Bolsover’s Little Castle. 

Neuschwanstein Castle

To view the interiors of the palace, you can head over to their official website. From there you can follow along with their visual tour. It’s amazing to see the level of decoration and detail which went into the castle. So many aspects of the castle look more like a Byzantine church than a castle. My favourite room of the palace has got to be the ‘Singers’ Hall.’ This was also the King’s favourite room in the entire palace. It occupies the whole of the fourth floor. The room’s design pays homage to the German legends of Lohengrin, the Swan Knight. Look closely for little swan icons hidden in the frescoes.

Bran Castle

Bran Castle, located on the Transylvanian side of Romania, is better known by the public as “Dracula’s Castle”. While there is no evidence, Bram Stocker even visited the castle, and the castle itself bears no resemblance to the one in the book, the legend remains. Perhaps the main reason for the connection is due to its revelance to Vlad the Impaler. Vlad was the true to life inspiration for the character of Dracula. Vlad III or Vlad the Impaler was the ruler of Wallachia from 1448 to 1476. His legendary name comes from the fact that Vlad had the bodies of his enemies impaled on large spikes to ward off invading Ottomans and Hungarian. His rule was rutheless and he would punish his enermies as well as his citizens just a brutally.

While Vlad never owned Castle Bran, there are rumours that he was once imprisoned there after his capture by the Hungarians. Historical records show that he was imprisoned in Budapest. But since the castle is so foreboding and dramatic, it was colloquially referred to as his prison.

Today the castle is now a museum playing host to objects and furniture collected by Queen Marie, the last Queen of Romania. You are able to explore the exterior and interiors of the building through google street view. While the Romanian castle might not be as opulent and grand as others around Europe, I think seeing this kind of art and architecture is such an important and interesting contrast.

The castle’s official website also offers visitors video tours of the castle. I especially love the video filmed of the Castle during a winter snowfall. It looks both so picturesque and haunting at the same time in the chill of winter. There is also a complete castle gallery to get a better look into the furnishing and art inside the palace. 

Taj Mahal

The Taj Mahal also called the ‘Crown of the Palace‘ was commissioned in 1632 by emperor Shah Jahan. He had the palace made as a tomb for his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal. And when he died, he was buried there as well, with his true love. It’s fascinating to know that one of the most beautiful structures in the world is actually a giant tomb. The ivory-white marble mausoleum sits on the southern bank of the river Yamuna in the Indian city of Agra. Today it is one of the 10 “Man-Made Wonders of the World“. The Google Arts and Culture exhibit, ‘Four Secret Spots at the Taj Mahal,’ takes you a street view tour of the lesser-known corners of India’s most iconic structure. There are so many discoveries I made looking through this virtual guide and I loved learning about those otherwise unknown secrets.

Miramare Castle

Miramare Castle is one of the great Italian castles. Built in the 19th-century on the Gulf of Trieste, the castle was made for Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian and his wife, Charlotte of Belgium, who would go on to become Empress Carlota of Mexico. The interiors of the castle have been captured in 360, and you can walk the halls of the palace yourself! 

To view the exteriors of the castle, there are some great videos online which make you feel like you’re really there! The castle’s grounds were designed by the archduke himself. They include some incredible landscaping featuring tropical species of trees and plants. The videos just make you want to jump right into that blue water that surrounds the castle.

Chapultepec Castle

A perfect segway from Miramare Castle is over to Mexico to Chapultepec Castle. This was Charlotte of Belgium’s residence when she became Empress Carlota of Mexico. I was amazed upon visiting the castle that such a thing existed in the modern metropolis of downtown Mexico City. Chapultepec Castle’s name comes from the Nahuatl word” chapoltepēc”, which means “at the grasshopper’s hill.” The hillside was for hundreds of years a sacred place for the Aztecs. In the 18th century, before the palace was built, the hillside was home to a gunpowder warehouse and military academy. Then in 1864, it became the official residence of Emperor Maximilian I and his consort Empress Carlota.

Carlota went to great care and expensive to remodel the palace into a luxurious residence. It was used as an official residence of the President of Mexico from 1883 until 1939. After which it was turned into a museum. My blog all about my visit to the castle is a highly detailed summary of all the wonders you’ll find there. YouVisit also has a wonderful virtual tour you can take to view parts of the palace in 360 degrees!

Catherine Palace

The Catherine Palace is a Rococo palace in Tsarskoye Selo just outside St. Petersburg, Russia. This was the summer residence of the Russian tsars, built in 1710 by Peter the Great for his wife Catherine I. The original palace for Catherine was only 16 rooms large, a fraction of the size it is now. When Catherine the first died, the palace was inherited by her daughter Elizabeth I. Elizabeth took upon expanding the palace into the grand structure it is today. Although none of the original rooms from Catherine’s time remain, her daughter loved her so much she always wanted it to be named after her.

In this 45-minute video tour, you are lead through the palace by guide Nadezhda Mironenko. You can see the details that architect Rastrelli took such great care in creating. He was a baroque visionary and took such great care in ensuring the palace was the gem of the baroque age. You’ll visit the Grand Hall, the Golden Suite and the Amber Room (the so-called eighth wonder of the world). The Amber Room is a chamber covered floor to ceiling in amber panels, backed with gold leaf and shimmering mirrors. The interior is absolutely overwhelming, and even though you can’t be there in person, you can still be in awe of the spectacle in front of you.

Matsumoto Castle

Matsumoto Castle is one of Japan’s best-preserved historic castles. It is located in the city of Matsumoto, in Nagano Prefecture. The castle also goes by the nickname “Crow Castle” because of its black exterior. Because the original wooden interiors and external stonework remain from the 16th century, it has been listed as a National Treasure of Japan. The Discovery Makes Knowledge youtube channel has a lovely video guide that leads you through the castle. Throughout the video, you get a great understanding of the history and meaning behind so many aspects of the palace.

After getting a primer with the video, head over to the Palace’s official website to get extremely detailed explanations about everything around the castle. You can use google street view to walk the castle’s ground and follow along with the website’s guide.

Lobkowicz Palace

The Lobkowicz Palace is one of the largest palaces inside Prague Castle. It was built in the 16th century by the Czech nobleman Jaroslav of Pernštejn. For many years, their doors remained closed to the public, used only by the palace’s residents. But in 2007, the building was transformed into a museum. Inside it features a great collection of artworks and decorative items from the Lobkowicz Collection. You’ll find paintings by Antonio Canaletto, Pieter Brueghel the Elder, Lucas Cranach the Elder, and Diego Velázquez hung on the walls. You can also see musical instruments, original manuscripts and early prints of composers, including Beethoven and Mozart.

One of my favourite Czech youtube channels, The Honest Guide, produced this fantastic exclusive video during the height of lockdown in Prague. Lobkowicz Palace is a privately owned building and the channel was given private access to tour their collection. Since Prague was in lockdown there were no public visitors so they had the whole place to themselves.

Start the video about 12 minutes in to begin right as they enter the museum. What makes the tour so interesting is that the guide is actually a descendant of the family who owns the palace! His stories and selection of favourite pieces inside the museum really make it feel more intimate and personal experience. They had some technical difficulties with the sound but stick with it as the information you get is fantastic!

I hope you enjoyed this guide of my favourite palaces around the world you can still visit online! In one day you’ll be able to travel across the globe and see some of the most opulent and ornate state rooms and royal galleries! Let me know in the comment what your favourite palace was or where you would like to visit virtually!

Happy (virtual) Travels, Adventurers!

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A city as old and as raucous as Venice is bound to have its fair share of dark histories. Along with these ghoulish tales are bound to come stories of ghosts and haunting! I have laid out in the map below all the spots where you can go ghost hunting to see if you can spot a spectre! But even if you’re not lucky enough to see a ghost for yourself, these shadowy stories of Venice’s mysterious history are all the most enjoyable when walking through the real places late at night.

About the Walking Tour

All but one of these spots can be visited so you can touch the same stones the characters in our stories would have walked on themselves. While not all these stories are directly connected to ghosts, they all have a macabre theme and you never know when you might be the first to see a spectre from one of these famous tales.

Table Of Contents

1. Map of Walking Tour
2. Riva de Biasio
3. Death in Venice
4. Campo Dei Morti
5. Palazzo Mastelli
6. Casino degli Spiriti
7. Campo de l'Abazia
8. San Michele Cemetery
9. Campiello del Remer
10. Malibran Theater
11. Calle Bressan
12. Santa Maria Formosa
13. San Francesco della Vigna
14. Campo San Piero de Casteo
15. Viale Giuseppe garibaldi
16. Sottoportego dei Preti 
17. Calle della Morte
18. Chiesa di Sant'Antonin
19. Chiesa di San Zaccaria
20. Pillars of Piazzetta San Marco
21. St Mark's Campanile
22. Rio Terrà dei Assassini
23. Grassi Palace
24. Palazzo Dario
25. Punta della Dogana
26. Poveglia

Map of Walking Tour

Riva de Biasio

We start our tour at the northernmost point on the island, at the Riva de Biasio Vaporetto dock. This was the spot in the 15th were the butcher of Biasio plied his trade. The butcher was known for his delicious sausages, that he served in the inn he ran on the canal. He was known all over Venice for his superior tasting sausages. Until one day, a woman discovered a small piece of a human finger inside, including the fingernail!

When the police raided the butcher shop they found pieces and bones of various children he had killed, and we can assume, turned into food for his restaurant. Biasio was beheaded in St. Mark’s Square and his house was torn down because the memories of what he had done haunted the residents of the area. Residences have been known to hear the voices of crying children late into the night echoing along the canal.

Death in Venice

Before the construction of the San Michele Cemetery, rich aristocrats were buried inside churches in burial tombs. But the cost of being buried inside a church was high and only for the very upper crust of Venetian society. Middle-class people “rented” their final resting place. These people could not afford a single tomb of their own so instead, groups of people would be buried together in a private chapel for a certain period of time. Once their time was up, their living family members could either pay up for another few years or have the corpses removed. There was even a school dedicated to the management of burials in Venice called the Scuola della Buona Morte, or School of the Good Death.

Campo Dei Morti

The poorest of Venetian society were buried in open-air cemeteries or mass graves. The street Campo dei Morti translates into the Street of the Dead. This was where once you’d find one of the largest open-air grave sights in Venice. This graveyard would have been overflowing when the plague first came to the city. And you can only imagine the smell! But in addition to the smell, it was literally unsafe as diseases would spread from the dead bodies to anyone living close by. So in the 19th century, an edict was formed that these cemeteries would be moved off the island for sanity purposes. But walking on these streets today still feels like you’re walking over someone’s grave.

Palazzo Mastelli

The best place to see the Palazzo Mastelli is opposite the house on the other side of the canal (as marked on the map). The most curious part of this building is the carving on the lower right corner which depicts a man in a turban standing beside a large camel. The legend says that this man in the bas-relief is actually the petrified former owner of the palace. The owners were rich silk merchants who made their money by selling low-quality fabrics at high prices to unsuspecting Venetians. When they pulled this scam on an old widow, she was furious.

She cursed the money she used to buy the fabric so that whenever the merchants touched it they would turn to stone. Look closely on the faces of both the merchant and the camel and see if in the moonlight of the night, you can hear them screaming for help!

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Casino degli Spiriti

The Casino degli Spiriti (the House of the Spirits) is made up of a vast complex of buildings consisting also of the Palazzo Contarini Dal Zaffo. In the 16th century when this building was first constructed it began its life as an intellectual meeting place. Philosophers and artists would come from far and wide to meet here. People like Tintoretto, Veronese and Titian were popular attendees. But over the years the palace was abandoned although some locals say that it wasn’t really abandoned after all. They claimed that cults began using the large annex in the Palazzo for dark rituals late at night. After this point in history, it seemed like the spot was cursed.

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Pietro Luzzo da Feltre

Strange noises were heard at night, and voice carried across the canal. Pietro Luzzo da Feltre, a painter of little repute, bought the land since it was cheap. The painter was a romantic soul and was madly in love with one of his models. When she turned down his advances, the love stuck painter threw himself off the building and died in the water. A few days later the painter’s ghost appeared in one of the windows and is still frequently seen wandering the halls. The palazzo was later used as a hospital for plague patients where hundreds of people died. Their bodies were given autopsies here as well and only rowed out to the nearby San Michele Cemetery when they had been torn apart by doctors.

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In the 1920s new owners discovered four bodies inside the building, all of which were missing their heads and right hands. This quickly put them off the property. The last gruesome story from the building’s history comes in 1940 when a rich woman was killed, dismembered and placed in a trunk which was later submerged into the lagoon. The trunk was discovered nearby by some local fisherman who had already known about all the other mysterious events which had occurred near the palazzo. All these spooky incidents have meant that no fisherman will even fish near the Casin degli Spiriti for fear of being its next victim.

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Campo de l’Abazia

The Campo de L’Abazia is where you might find one of the most theatrical ghosts of the city. On May 13th, 1437 there was a terrible fire that spread across the neighbourhood. Families were trying to get these children out of the fire. When Bartolomeo Zenni was asked by his neighbours for help he refused them in order to instead save his jewels and gold. But this cruel action condemned his soul for life. Today, if you see an old man, with a large sack on his back, in the square begging for money – don’t speak to him. People have been known to approach the man, only to have him turn into a burning skeleton in front of their eyes!

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Fondamente Nove

Standing on the main island looking out at the San Michele opposite, see if you can spot a floating casket on the water, lit by four candles. This is thought to be the ghost of a little girl who died in the water in 1904. On a particularly foggy night, a Vaporetto captain and two gondolas set out from the main island to Burano and Murano respectively. Due to the thick fog, the Vaporetto crashed into the gondolas sending almost all the passengers into the water. Despite their best attempts, four women died that night but one little girl remained lost at sea. The floating casket with candles is said to be the ghost of the little girl who was never found and never given a proper burial.

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San Michele Cemetery

Most obviously haunted places in Venice is the San Michele Cemetery. The new cemetery was established in 1807, by filling the canals of the then two separate islands (San Michele and San Cristoforo), to create one larger one. Bodies were carried to the island on special funeral gondolas. The island was formerly used for prisoners, which in itself imbues the island with a storied past. The cemeteries are guarded by large cypress trees whose branches ache and moan with the wind. Thousands of people are now buried on the island, under some of the most lavish monuments you’ll find anywhere in the world. The cemetery is divided into different sections; Catholic, Greco/Orthodox, Protestant, Victims of War, and gondoliers. 

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Gravestones

Most of the graves here were only filled by one individual for 10-12 years, after which their bones were moves to mausoleums or dumped in the communal ossuary. Legend has it that one November 1st, the dead leave the island and make their way back to Venice to visit their old homes. Venetians think it’s bad luck to look out the window, for fear of seeing the dead, on this day. On November 2nd, all souls day, the living return to the island to pay respects to their loved ones and often are seeing bringing Fave dei Morte (“Beans of the Dead”) for their relatives. If you’d like to travel to the cemetery you can take the No. 4.1 or 4.2 motoscafo from the Fondamenta Nove. The ride across the water to the island onlu takes six minutes.

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Campiello del Remer

Here in Campiello del Remer square, you might catch sight of a tormented jealous lover. In the 16th century, a nobleman named Loredan fell in love and married the niece of the Doge. But wracked with jealously, accused her of adultery. She repeatedly denied it but unable to free himself from his jealous rage, beheaded her. Not wanting a nobleman’s blood on his hands, the Doge told the Loredan to go to the Pope and ask for forgiveness. But one caveat, he had to bring his wife’s beheaded head with him on the long journey. Loredan obeyed but the pope would not see him. He carried his dead wife’s decaying head back to Venice and, now wracked with madness, threw himself into the canal near the Campiello Remer. He is still seen today walking around the Campiello with his dead wife’s head in his hands.

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Malibran Theater

The Malibran Theater was once, the old home of Marco Polo. Marco Polo, when travelling in China, met the daughter of a great emperor and fall in love. He married her and brought her back to Venice with him. But she never felt at home in Venice. Marco Polo’s sisters didn’t like her either, and we thought to be very jealous of the affection that Marco paid on her. One day, Marco was captured in battle by the Genoese and instead of telling her that he had been captured, Marco’s sisters told his wife he had died. Feeling more alone than ever, she lit her clothes on fire and threw herself into the canal where she is thought to have died.

Today, people claimed that you can still see her white figure floating in the air and if you listen closely hear the faint sound of Eastern music playing in the wind. While there is seemingly little truth to this story, when the theatre was doing some excavations, they discovered the body of an Asian woman buried in the foundations of the building. Found along with her with a tiara and an imperial coat, so no doubt this was Marco’s princess.

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Calle Bressan

In front of the Basilica of S.S. Giovanni, there is said to be a ghost that haunts the court. The ghost is often seen begging for alms. This is “Bell Ringer” of St Marks Square. The bell ringer was just that, a bell ringer who was once in charge of the huge bells inside St. Mark’s Campanile. Bell ringers back then didn’t make much money, so when an old Venetian scientist approached the boy and offered him a large sum in exchange for his skeleton, the boy jumped at the offer.

The scientist wanted the boy’s skeleton to perform experiments on after his death. Not thinking anything of this, the boy accepted and was handed over the large sum of money. He immediately went about spending it, mostly on alcohol, and eventually drank himself into a very early grave. Perhaps the scientist knew a thing or two and crafted the entire scheme. The scientist took what he had paid for and the skeleton is still on display in Venice’s Natural History Museum to this day. But it is said that the skeletons leave the museum every night, and comes here to beg for money, in the hopes of being able to buy his skeleton back and escape the mortal world.

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Santa Maria Formosa

Belltowers across Europe in the Medieval era were the only way that people know what was going on in the city. The bells tolled for the start and end of the workday. They tolled to mark danger incoming into the city. Of even just to mark a celebration. But whatever they were used for, they had great influence over the people of the city. Therefore many of the belltowers in Venice have a carving sculpted on the door to the tower. These carvings were often grotesque as they were used to “ward off the Devil” to ensure he didn’t enter to ring the bells and cause chaos in the city.

The carving on the church of Santa Maria Formosa‘s belltower is one of the best examples of this. This carving is said to howl out at night when he senses the devil is near. Others say that the cries are something much darker. And that the carving above the door is actually a demon trapped in stone. See if the face’s eyes follow you as you pass.

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San Francesco della Vigna

The church of San Francesco della Vigna is thought to be haunted by not one but a group of ghosts. Years ago, a man was out late walking home, when darkness fell early than the man expected. This was long before the invention of street lamps. As he neared the church, he saw a few glimmers of light in the distance and thought he might ask if the group had a light to spare. When he got closer he saw there was a group of men, around the graveyard of the church, all holding candles. One of the men turned to face him and offered him his candle. The man took it enthusiastically and walked the rest of the way home.

In the morning he was horrified to see that the light he was using the night before wasn’t a candle but a shrivelled hand! He returned the next night, as he felt keeping the hand would have been grave robbery, and therefore a sun. He saw the group of men around the graveyard once more. They all carried candles in their hand. All but one. He passed the hand back to the ghost, who smiled. The man ran off into the night, never being able to forget what he saw. The graveyard is now gone but perhaps the ghosts still frequent the churchyard!

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Campo San Piero de Casteo

On the far edge of the island of Venice lies the Campo San Piero de Castro. Lurking in the shadows is said to be the ghost of a young bride. This is Tosca. Tosca was a poor young girl who was promised to a rich nobleman in order to further her family’s name. But she was already in love with someone else. A young hunter. Before she had to marry the nobleman, she escaped with the hunter. But before they could get away, the nobleman found them. He killed the hunter and cut of Tosca’s ring finger so should never marry anyone! Riddled with loss over her beloved she killed herself. Today her ghost searches endlessly for her wedding ring so she can marry her beloved – even in death.

Viale Giuseppe garibaldi

Standing in the Viale Giuseppe Garibaldi is a large statue of Garibaldi. Giuseppe Garibaldi was the hero of Italian Unification. But standing behind Garibaldi’s grande statue is another figure, Giuseppe Zolli. Giuseppe Zolli was a young red shirt soldier. The solider was such a fan of Garibaldi that he swore an oath to protect him, even after death. The original statue of Garibaldi was designed as a solo piece, and here he stood, alone. But after some time, people began to report seeing a young ghost in a red shirt wandering the gardens asking for Garibaldi. Seeing as this ghost was clearly Giuseppe Zolli and did not plan on leaving Garibaldi alone, designers made him his own statue behind Garibaldi. Since then no one has spotted the ghost but there is most definitely some spirited energy going on here.

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Sottoportego dei Preti 

If you walk under the archway of the Sottoportego dei Preti and look on the opposite side, you’ll find a red heart carved into the brick. Legend has it that once upon a time a poor Venetian fisherman named Orio, was out fishing one night when a Melusine appeared near his boat. A Melusine is a Venetian mermaid, one who has two tails. Orio feels in love with her. And she with him.

They got married and even had three children, but the Melusine died birthing their last child. But unlike humans, Melusine’s turn into snakes when they die. She would return to Orio and the children every day as a snake to clean the house and take care of the children. But Orio didn’t know about this, and when he finally saw the snake, he killed it. Only then did he realize the snake was his wife. Broken-hearted he carved away at the wall in madness to remind future people his sad love story. Today it is thought that if you touch the heart you will find luck in love in the next year.

Calle della Morte

The Calle della Morte translates in Italian literally into the Alley of Death. The alley was the most popular spot for people to be killed but in a rather strange way. When noblemen were condemned to death by the Venetian Council, the council avoided telling them right away. They feared they would escape before the sentence. So they would trick them to coming to this street where they would be killed. The Calle de Morte is extremely narrow and there would be no escape once someone was after you here. You’d think after the first few times someone would have caught on but I guess news didn’t travel as fast back in medieval times.

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Chiesa di Sant’Antonin

If you listen closely when you stand near the Church of Sant’Antonin, see if you can hear the stomping of huge footsteps. These are the ghostly footsteps of an elephant who once went rampaging through the city. In 1819, a travelling circus came to Venice. Animals in this circus where extremely abused and finally the elephant had had enough and escaped its shackles. It ran through the city, running through Riva Degli Schiavoni, destroying houses, staircases and doorways as it went.

It finally ended up here, where its foot got stuck in a tombstone allowing the Venetians chasing it to finally catch and shoot it. But killing it outright wasn’t enough for them. They brought it to St. Mark’s Square and executed the animal with a cannon! The poor elephant was no doubt just really scared and didn’t deserve this horrific end. So, its ghost still tries to take out its revenge on people today, even in death!

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Chiesa di San Zaccaria

The Church of San Zaccaria has a very haunting past. In 1105 there was a great fire in the church. All the nuns living in the convent tried to escape the fire and fled into the crypt for safety. Unfortunately, 100 nuns perished in the fire. They were buried beneath the church, quite haphazardly. Years late, in a horrific flood in the 15th century, the crypts were flooded with water. Suddenly thousands of bones floated to the surface, scaring the daylights out of the priests who hadn’t known they were there. When you visit the church, especially on a rainy night, see if you can hear the sounds of bones swaying in the water underneath. 

But this is not the end of the dark tales haunting his building. This church is where two Doge’s of Venice were murdered. The church was even once better as the La Chiesa Degli Omicidi – The Church of Murders. Pietro Tradonico was murdered on September 13th, 864. He was attacked by a group of malcontents as he was leaving after confession. After he died, they buried him in this very church. I don’t know about you but I wouldn’t want to be buried right where I was murdered.

Vitale II Michiel

But, looks like it was a Venetian trend! Because later in May 1172, Vitale II Michiel was also murdered here. Michiel was accused of both the destruction of the Venetian fleet at the hands of Byzantine rebels as well as bringing the plague back into the city. Not a great reputation. An angry mob gathered outside the palace and he tried to escape them by running to the convent here at Zaccaria. But stabbed to death by one of the mob before he arrived. Eight doges in total are buried here, all of whom met a violent end. Probably should have stopped burying them here…seems like the church is well, cursed. Probably by all those nuns who burned to death.

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Pillars of Piazzetta San Marco

Now we come into the Piazzetta San Marco. This time of night the square is so much quieter than when visitors flood it during the day. Standing tall in the square are the two pillars of San Marco and San Todaro. But before you take another step, be warned, it is said that if you stand in between the two columns you’ll be cursed.

The two columns were brought here from Constantinople, along with a third. But the ship carrying them sank to the bottom of the sea, and the third column was lost forever. The area between the two columns was used as the site for public executions for many years embuing the columns with dark memories and no doubt cursing the stones below with the blood of the fallen.

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St Mark’s Campanile

Another way people were punished and sometimes killed in Venice was to hang from the top of the St. Mark’s Campanile locked in a cage. This was called ‘supplizio Della cheba’, or the suspended cage. This method of torture was mainly used prior to the 15th century. The person convicted was almost always a member of the clergy. Often the crimes could be anything from sodomy, murder, forgery to blasphemy. The length of time you were in the cage, depending on the severity of the crime. When in the cage, the criminal could feed himself through a string with which he could drag bread and drinking water. Often this was almost impossible and the person would die. A haunting image of a less than beautiful St. Marks square.

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Rio Terrà dei Assassini

Rio Tera’ degli Assassini translates into the Assassins’ Street and the adjacent Assassins’ Bridge. This bridge connected the more upscale neighbourhood of San Marco to the red light district where you could find all the best brothels. The street is very narrow and often was extremely dark. The most famous story from this street was in 1507. A nobleman was murdered here and his body was discovered by a local baker named Piero Tasca. The baker saw the murder weapon on the ground nearby. Seeing its silver blade and gem-encrusted hilt he grabbed the dagger in the hope of trading it for some money to feed his family. But, as he went to grab it, the authorities arrived and arrested him for the murder.

They promptly sentenced him to death, despite his objections. A few weeks later, the real murderer confessed. From that day forward the saying recorded del polo fornareto (Remember the poor baker) was uttered in council meetings for the Republic of Venice to think twice before making a grave mistake in execution sentencing. Some people have been heard to smell freshly baked bread floating through the air here, even in the dead of night.

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Grassi Palace

The Palazzo Grassi is home to a billionaire and contemporary art collector Francois Pinault. When the Palazzo was being restored in the 80s, a night watchman was walking through the building when he heard a young girl’s voice. The voice screamed, “stop!“. The nightwatchman froze in place and turned on his light. He looked about but couldn’t see anything. He was moving more slowly now in order to keep an eye out for the person whose voice he heard when suddenly he noticed a huge hole in the floor! This voice had been warning him to stop, before falling to his death.

After asking around, the owners discovered that years ago a young girl had been thrown off the balcony into the courtyard below. She had been trapped in an abusive living situation and unfortunately died at the hands of her abuser. It seems that she now tries to protect others around the palace, from any kind of suffering.

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Palazzo Dario

This picturesque house looks like the most idyllic little spot in Venice but Palazzo Dario is a house of two faces. The intricate Istrian stone, richly decorated with marble and circular medallions communicates nothing but beauty. But it’s dark side is really pretty dark. The house also goes by the name the ‘house that kills’ and is thought to be the most haunted house in all of Venice. Almost anywho who has lived here or owned the building has been murdered, died by suicide, been in a terrible accident or went bankrupt, so…keep your distance!

In the 15th century, the house was built and the Dario family moved in. Almost immediately, their daughter committed suicide. Her husband went bankrupt and their son perished in a fight. Rumours are that the house was built on top of an old Templar cemetery who weren’t so happy with a big house being dumped on top of their graves. Outside the house is a plaque that is engraved with the name of the first owner, “Giovanni Dario to the Genius of the City“. But smart sleuths have discovered that in Italians, you can make an anagram out of these letters to make it spell, Sub ruina insidiosa genero (I bring treacherous ruins to those who live under this roof). Pretty spooky right?

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Punta della Dogana

The Punta Della Dogana is located at the end of the island of Dorsoduro and gives visitors a beautiful view of the Grand Canal. While enjoying the view, don’t blink twice if you happen to see something larger than life slithering around in the water. Legend has it that inside these dark waters lives a large sea serpent, like that loch ness monster. If it happens to be a moonless night you might be in luck since the monster favours nights when its darkest. Fishermen swear they have seen the creature although no evidence of its existence has been proven yet. Maybe you’ll be the first to get it on camera!

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Poveglia

We can’t talk about the hauntings of Venice without discussing Poveglia. But unfortunately, the island is pretty inaccessible to visitors. There are reports that you can hire a private boat which will take you there for about 180 euros, and I did manage to find a company which offers tours there for 350 euros! But since the island is officially off-limits to anyone, you are taking a risk by going there yourself. But standing on edge of Dorsoduro, look out into the black waters and imagine for yourself the island of death which is also known as Poveglia.

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Poveglia isn’t just one of the most haunted places in Venice, but one of the most haunted places in Europe! Poveglia was located at the edge of the lagoon and therefore a good spot to quarantine people coming into the lagoon by ship in the 16th century. During this time the plague was ravaging Europe and the Magistrato alla Sanità (Public Health Office) were trying their best to ensure it didn’t enter the cramped city of Venice, where it would spread like wildfire. In 1793 the first of two ships were placed into temporary confinement on the island when the plague was discovered on their ship. Unfortunately, they couldn’t keep it contained here and instead the island was turned into a giant burial ground.

Plague Graves

Over 160,000 plague victims were brought to the island during this period. Bodies were simply piled one on top of the other and even those who were sent here to bury the dead, often met their end here before they finished the job. Once the pile was too large for any new bodies, the whole pile would be burned to ash. It is said that there isn’t an inch of soil on Poveglia that isn’t mixed with the ashes of thousands of bodies.

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Psychiatric Hospital

After lying almost abandoned for years, in 1922 a psychiatric hospital was built on the island. The hospital was run by a cruel doctor who performed horrific experiments on his patients, who he deemed less than human. Located so far away from the prying eyes of the city, the doctor felt like he could do whatever he wanted here. It didn’t even take much to be sent to the asylum here in Poveglia. Understanding the treatment for mental illness was just in its infancy and it seemed like anyone who was even the slightest bit less than normal was sent here to the asylum.

The doctor was thought to have been driven mad, perhaps by the plague ghosts of the island, who were trying to protect the innocent souls he was abusing. The doctor attempted to commit suicide by jumping off the hospital belltower. But, almost in a twist of fate, he survives the jump. His injuries were traumatic and eventually, he would succumb to his wounds, but not without a tremendous amount of suffering. Karma. The hospital closed in 1968 and since then the island has been off-limits for anyone. The buildings have been left to the elements and are literally falling apart. People have heard noises coming from the abandoned island late at night. Is that the sound of the buildings falling down, or ghosts crying out in the night? I’ll let you decide.

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For those of you brave enough to have made it through the entire tour, kudos to you! You’re truly a superior ghost hunter! Let me know in the comment what your favourite story from the tour was or if you were lucky enough to spot a spectre!

Happy (spooky) Travels, Adventurers

The post A Free Self-Guided Walking Tour of the Haunted Canals of Venice first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Coming home from Venice, the best souvenir to bring with you or give to another is definitely a Venetian mask. But it’s so important to know how to find and spot an authentic mask as well as where to buy them. Hopefully, this little guide helps you in your quest to learn more about this amazing tradition and finding your perfect mask.

Table Of Contents

1. History of Masks in Venice
2. Carnevale di Venezia
3. How Masks are Made
4. Mask Styles | Historical
5. Mask Styles | Commedia dell'arte
6. Mask Styles | Modern Masks
7. How Can you if a Mask is Authentic?
8. Venetian Mask Shops
9. Try Before you Buy

History of Masks in Venice

Today, Venetian masks are mainly associated with Carnevale di Venezia or the Carnival of Venice. But their origin in the city pre-dates Carnival by a few hundred years. No one seems to know exactly when Venetians started wearing masks to conceal their identity. But there have been accounts of this as early as the 11th century. Venice had a prime location in Europe, adjacent to major centres of trade with both the middle east and Europe. This meant that the Republic lead the way in economic development based on trading valuable goods. Most of its citizens were making a fairly good living, and with flush income, came the desire to spend! But more often than not, the way they wanted to indulge themselves was in a rather less than “honourable” manner. At least that was how it was viewed at the time.

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Although it was illegal to gamble, casinos began popping up all over the place, even in convents! Sexual promiscuity and prostitution were rampant. Despite homosexuality being condemned by the church, Venetians embraced it! The city was relatively small, and people lived basically one on top of the other. There was no chance for the secretary in a city with eyes everywhere you looked. So people began to wear masks to conceal their identity. Nuns and priests were able to don a mask and dress as lavishly as they wanted, unrestrained from the restrictions of the pious church. Masks allowed you to remain anonymous and live your life to your heart’s desire.

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Masks as Disguise

But wearing masks was not solely as a means for sinful activity. With a mask on, and no way of identifying a rich person from a poor person, a group of wearers would all be seen as equal. A servant could speak out against a nobleman without being identified and therefore could express opinions without retribution. The earliest masks worn by the public were not to the opulent as the ones we know of today. Most often, they were plain unadorned faces painted either black of white.

For many years, despite the church abhorring the sinful atmosphere in Venice, they turned a blind eye. They did so in exchange for the wealth that the city brought into Italian coffers. But things began to get a little out of control in the 13th century. Historical documents recorded this anarchic behaviour. One report detailed how people in masks were throwing eggshells filled with perfume off balconies onto the people below. Another document reported how masked men were gambling, visiting convents and using vulgar language. All pretty tame with today’s perspective but back then it was the talk of the town!

Rome’s New Mandate

Finally, Rome was forced to place a limit on the times during the year where mask-wearing would be allowed. They hoped this would curb the city’s lawless behaviour. Rome mandated that starting on December 26th, citizens would be allowed to wear masks until Shrove Tuesday. This was in order to protect the various holy days from being marred by the city’s lawlessness. Venetians took to ensuring that their masks were as fanciful and elaborate as possible in anticipation of their debut on December 26th! If you could only wear masks for a few months of the year, they wanted them to at least make a statement!

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Carnevale di Venezia

Carnevale di Venezia or the Venice Carnival, was established in 1168. It began as a celebration in honour of the Republics’ victory against Padua and Ferrara. The victory celebration started right before the beginning of Lent. This date was very important. During Lent, a myriad of rich food (meat, sugar, fats) were off limit for 40 days! Before the start of lent many large households needed to find a way to use up all those banned ingredients. And what better way, than to throw a huge party! Since Carnival occurred during the months in which mask-wearing was allowed, masks became almost required for attending any decadent Carnevale celebration. Masks were worn during Carnival to help conceal the identities of both the lower and upper classes. This way everyone could dance and celebrate together without the social hierarchy getting in the way.

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Carnival was abolished with the falls of the Venetian Republic, at the end of the 18th century. And mask-wearing banned with it! It wasn’t until the 1970s when Carnival was brought back to life. Surprisingly enough, its rebirth was at the hands of a bunch of university students who embraced the hippie lifestyle. Hippies were counterculture advocates. They felt that since these masks had been banned, wearing them was almost an act of rebellion. But soon, Venetians who weren’t a part of the hippie movement began also embrace wearing these masks once more. It was a reemergence of Venetian history. Additionally, artists and shops saw it as big business for locals and tourists alike. Before you knew it, mask shops were popping up on every corner!

How Masks are Made

Traditional Venetian masks are made today in exactly the same manner that they were made in the past. A large piece of clay is carved into the desired face or mask shape. Each detail hand-sculpted by the artist. This is then used to create a chalk mould. The mould is then covered in papier-mache. Once dried it is removed from the mould and the excess edges of the papier-mache are cut off. Gesso paint is used for the base and then more paints are applied to give it colouring and shading. Gold leaf is traditionally added along with feathers, fur, ribbons, gems and glitter. Glue is sometimes used to create raised patterns on the mask and then covered in gold leaf. Some of the most intricate designs can take 2-3 weeks for one individual artist to finish.

Mask Styles | Historical

There are three main categories of mask designs you’ll find in shops today in Venice. The first are historical reproductions of traditional masks whose designs originated in Venice.

Bauta

The Bauta mask is one of the oldest styles. This mask was almost always accompanied by a tricorn hat and cape. Even when masks were banned throughout the year, the Bauta was an exception. These masks were required for women to wear if they attended the theatre. The word bauta comes from the German “behüten“, which means to protect. Men had to wear them during certain key governmental votes to protect their political opinions from each other.  The mask would cover the entire face but was angled outwards so the wearer could eat, drink and speak easily without having to remove the mask. This made it perfect for parties to remain anonymous while being able to keep the wine flowing.

The Plague Doctor

The Medico Della Peste or Plague doctor mask was originally worn by doctors during the plague. It was a functional mask instead of an aesthetic one. The long beak which extends from the covered face was stuffed with herbs and spices which were thought to prevent infection in the 17th century. This technique was developed by French physician Charles de Lorme and as silly as that idea seems now during the plague these masks where thought to be the doctors saving grace.

The mask is white with two round black spectacles painted around the eyes. The spectacles were meant to represent crystals which were thought to protect the wearer’s eyes. Today people continue to wear the Plague Doctor mask as its haunting past evokes such powerful emotions and creepy vibes. There is nothing like seeing that beak silhouetted on the canals to make you feel a shiver up your spine.

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Gatto

The Gatto mask is very easy to identify, as it looks like the face of a cat. Gatto, in Italian means cat. Cats were considered to be almost heroes by Venetians after the plague. Cats were actually thought to be responsible for saving the city from complete destruction. And there is a bit of truth to this, as cats would eat the rats which carred the plague and infected the citizens. Thereafter cats were an honoured creature and masks were even made to pay homage to their greatness.

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The Jester

The Jester is clown mask that dates all the way back to the middle ages. Jesters were originally considered to be soulful opposites of a king. Instead of being touched by God for greatness, they were touched by madness. But Kings were encouraged to give these people work in their courts are they were nevertheless still touched by God and shouldn’t be rejected. The jesters uniform most frequently consisted of a cap and bells and these elements were incorporated into their masks. Jesters’ roles evolved and they were considered men of great wit and skill. They were acrobatics, juggling, comedians, and even some times magicians. Jester masks are some of the most interesting masks with so many details and I love the noise they make. You always know if a Jester is close by listening for those jingle bells echoing down the canals.

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Dama

The Dama mask is one of the heaviest and largest masks you can find. It is full-faced, heavily gilded, with often a sculpture of a large coif added to the top. These coifs were how Venetian women were thought to wear their hair during the Cinquecento period (which was between 1500 to 1599). Women at this time also wore very expensive clothing covered in jewels and needed a mask which would be just as ornate! These are amazing masks for those that want to make a statement.

Volto 

The Volto mask is also known as the “larva” mask. The word larva in Italians means ghost. In the moonlight, these white painted masks worn with large cloaks and hats would give the appearance of a ghost floating around the canals of Venice. The mask is also known as the “citizen mask” as it was often worn by common people during the holidays. Traditionally these masks were relatively simple, usually painted plain white with some black around the eyes to accentuate that feature. Today they are still generally kept simple but are great for personalizing as people will often add a few details to tie the mask in with their outfit or costume.

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Mask Styles | Commedia dell’arte

The second category of Venetian masks is the Commedia dell’arte designs which were inspired by theatrical productions.

Columbina

The Columbina is a delicate half-mask, which was often worn only by women. Traditionally this mask would be tied to the face by a ribbon or held up on a long stick. Commedia dell’arte was an early form of professional theatre, originating in Italy. Actors and actresses in these productions would frequently wear masks to either change their appearance to suit a specific character or were even by men when they were required to play female parts.

Famously there was a popular actress named Columbine who performed in one of these Commedia dell’arte. She thought herself too beautiful to have her entire face covered so the production designed a half mask for her to wear. It is this design, which is named after her, which is today still one of the most popular masks you’ll find in Venice today. These masks are often decorated with gold, silver, crystals and feathers as it is meant to really exemplify that theatrical feeling. The masks highlight the eyes on the face and therefore these masks are often considered to be some of the most alluring.

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Scaramouche

The Scaramouche is my FAVOURITE of all the Venetian masks. It was worn in plays when representing a young adventurer! Often thought of a swashbuckling pirate or masked henchman. The Scaramouche mask wearer often dons a typical black Spanish dress which they can use to flit about and hide in the shadow. I love the exaggerated nature of this mask and love the silhouette is creates on the face!

Pierrot

The Pierrot masks is known as the “sad clown”. In plays, he is the dejected lover. Pierrot desire Colombina, yet she always breaks his heart. His masks are traditionally painted with a tear falling from his eyes and are a favourite with romantic souls.

Pantalone

Pantalone was a theatrical representation of an old, miserable man. This character is full of rage, and therefore his mask is always painted red. Black gesso was added to accentuate the folds of aged skin on his face. I think this mask is great for those who want a very expressive mask.

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Pulcinella

The Pulcinella is immediately easy to spot by its crooked nose. The face shape was actually the model for the Punch and Judy dolls which were used in puppet theatre in England. The word Pulcinella even means punch. Pulcinella is known for being cruel and violent and his mask is often contorted into a scowl. These masks are great comedic pieces that really will change the way you act and even move in your costume!

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Mask Styles | Modern Masks

The third and finaly type of masks are the modern and experimental designs that the new blood of Venetian artisans around bringing to this traditional craft. Some of these masks use references from art forms in their modern creations. Steampunk masks are some of the most popular modern Venetian mask style with gears and cogs featuring heavily in the ornamentation. Whatever these modern artists are creating I love seeing these new styles bringing fresh ideas to the streets of Venice!

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How Can you if a Mask is Authentic?

Like many other famous tourist souvenirs, there are always shops all over the city selling fakes. Chinese mass-produced masks are found EVERYWHERE in Venice, especially around St Marks square. And while they might look the part, they are not made in Venice. There is no love put into these masks. And the Venetian artisans who are struggling to keep their craft alive won’t make a dime from those sales.

If you’re a budget traveller, I get it. You might not be able to afford one of the beautiful artisan masks. But just know that those same fake masks in tourist shops can be purchased on Amazon for about $20 USD. So don’t think that you’re really walking away with a piece of Venetian craftsmanship. And usually, for only a few euros more you can find something, perhaps a little simpler, at a real boutique which puts money back into the hands of local Venetians.

If you want to know whether the mask you’re about to buy was made authentically in Venice or not, go through the following list in your head.

• Check the Price. If the mask seems to cheap, it’s probably because it’s fake and mass produced in China.
• Study the inside. If you see clear signs of papier-mache, layers of paper that can be felt when touched, this is a good sign it’s real. Uniform texture means it’s mass-produced.
• Look for brushstroke. Non-uniform paint marks and brushstrokes mean it’s been hand-painted. Mass-produced masks are spray painted and won’t have brush marks.
• Avoid “made in Venice” stamps. If you see a stamp on the back instead of a sticker, even if it says “made in Venice” this is a good sign its fake. Copycat companies have even gone as far as to falsify these stamps.
• Instead of a stamp, look for a certificate. Hanging on the mask or stuck on the back you’ll always find a sticker or tag which is the certificate of authenticity.

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Venetian Mask Shops

So, now you know all about what masks mean and which one you might be most drawn but where can you buy an authentic mask? Check out one of the stores below which I think contains some of the greatest works of art you can find today! To find the best mask shops, stay out of San Marco as anything you find there around St. Mark’s square is almost certainly fake.

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Papier Mache Venezia

Papier Mache Venezia can be found in the Castello district and is a great place to buy masks with a slightly unique flavour. This shop sells all the traditional masks, as well as masks painted with images of Venice imprinted onto them. While these masks might be more of a display piece and less of a wearable, I still love that they are offering up something different.

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Ca’ Macana

Ca’ Macana has two locations but I think their shop in Dorsoduro a little quieter and you can find more interesting options. This shop is not only a feast for the eyes but since the workshop is inside the store you can watch the artisans making the masks right there! My favourite pieces from their collection are their beautifully crafted animal masks. While these are a departure from traditional masks, they are both so realistic and so fantastical they make such an impact on both the wearer and anyone who lays eyes on them.

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La Bottega Dei Mascareri

La Bottega Dei Mascareri is a shop owned and run by two brothers and has been open since 1984. The brothers were really inspired by the medieval court, commedia dell’arte and eighteenth-century Venice. All these historical references are poured into their work and they create some absolutely incredible masks. Despite this high level of craftsmanship, there are masks here that cost as little as €15 which makes them affordable for almost anyone! They also make some really inventive designs, just as the Vincent Van Gogh mask below, which are a real surprise among the traditional masks.

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La Gioia

La Gioia is one of the oldest shops in Venice, founded in 1970. While obviously that seems very modern considering the ancient history of Venice, since mask making was only really re-introduced in the 70s this is one of those shops that brought the tradition back to the city! The designs in this shop are fantastically creative. The designers manage to blend traditional shapes with some really lush colours. So many of their masks are then embellished with gold and jewels and have papier-mache swaths of fabrics that surround the mask. These definitely are statement pieces for those of us who aren’t afraid to make a splash!

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Il Canovaccio

Il Canovaccio is located close to the tourist hub but tucked away on a side street, therefore, avoid most of the mobs which flow out of the Piazza San Marco. The staff here is incredibly kind and will even be happy to tell you all about the histories behind the different masks and regale you of stories from Carnival! This shop’s specialty is definitely FEATHERS! So many of their masks are adorned in these amazingly rich feathers and I love the elegant embellishments they add to the masks.

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Venice Masks by Alberto Sarria

Venice Masks by Alberto Sarria was established in 1986 and quickly became a popular stop for locals and tourists alike to find unique masks for Carnival. One thing which makes their shop a little different is they sell some leather masks. This is obviously a shift from the traditional but the leather masks really have the most interesting look and I love artisans putting their own spin on ancient techniques.

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Bluemoon Venice

Bluemoon Venice is an amazing shop that sells some very interesting types of masks such as ones made entirely of metal, with delicate cut-outs. So many of their masks are embellished with Swarovski crystals which makes them really sparkle and shine. But if you find yourself wanting to design your own mask, this shop also sells blank canvases which you can personalize yourself! This is great for kids or for those with a very specific vision in mind! The shop has everything you need from brushes to paints and embellishments to create your own Venetian mask!

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Try Before you Buy

Lastly, when you’re ready to make a purchase be sure to ask the staff if it’s ok to try on the masks. This is polite and some of the masks are so delicate they might want to assist you with this. Since these masks are moulded onto a generic face, they will obviously not fit you perfectly. Some masks fit different face shapes better than others so be sure to try on your masks before purchasing if you indeed intend on wearing it. If it’s just for display then no worries there, you can just choose whichever design suits your fancy.

I hope this guide really helps you decide which mask is right for you and helped you understand a bit more about the history of the mask and mask making in Venice. Let me know if the comments which one was your favourite!

Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Complete Guide to Venetian Carnival Masks first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

You could take dozens of walking tours around Venice, specializing in different themes or neighbourhoods. But this walking tour is perfect if you have limited time to see the city. Or you just want a good introductory tour to take you around the iconic places which helped form the history and culture of this city.

Table Of Contents

1. Walking Tour Details
2. Venice Tourist Tax
3. Start of the Tour: St. Mark's Square
4. Caffe Florian
5. St Mark’s Basilica
6. Doge’s Palace
7. The Bridge of Sighs
8. Corte Teatro & Teatro Goldoni
9. The Grand Canal
10. Rialto Bridge
11. Venetian Street Names
12. Mercado di Rialto
13. Ca' d'Oro
14. Riding a Traghetto
15. Cannaregio
16. Church of Madonna dell' Orto
17. Jewish Quarter
18. Panificio Giovanni Volpe
19. Scalzi Bridge
20. Santa Croce
21. Giardini Papadopoli
22. Basilica dei Frari
23. Dorsoduro District
24. Basilica di Santa Maria Della Salute
25. Zattere

Walking Tour Details

How Long is this Walking Tour?

This walking tour takes you around some of the most important landmarks around the island. I recommend leaving a whole day for it since it spans almost the entire city. Or you could break the tour into sections to spread over a few days. This tour serves as a great introduction to the various districts. Giving you a glimpse of where you might like to come back and explore more later.

When Should I do this walk?

Monday is a great day to do this tour. Most museums are closed on Mondays, yet the churches we will visit will remain open. Mondays are also when people have gone back to work, so you’ll get a better idea of what the neighbourhood looks like when all the shops are open. Businesses are bustling, and the cafes serve their daily customers. You can, of course, for this tour any day of the week, but I always recommend Mondays due to the museum’s closures.

Start the tour early in the morning. The earlier, the better. I usually wake up before dawn and go to St. Mark’s Square. As the sun rises above the city, the square is almost empty, except for the pigeons. There’s nothing like it. Well worth the sacrifice of a little bit of sleep.

When is the Best Time to Visit Venice

The best time to visit Venice is during the shoulder seasons of spring and fall, from April to June and September to November, respectively. During these months, the weather is pleasant, and the crowds are fewer, allowing you to explore the city without the hustle and bustle of peak tourist season. However, keep in mind that Venice experiences high tides, known as acqua alta, from November to March, which can make certain parts of the city inaccessible.

Venice Tourist Tax

Starting January 1st, 2023, Venice will implement a Tourist Tax for anyone staying in the city overnight. This tassa di soggiorno or tourist tax will be included in your hotel, B&B and alternative accommodation fee. 

But soon, the city will be implementing a day-visit ticket. This is set to cost anywhere from €3 to €10. Visitors from cruise ships or the mainland must book their tickets to visit Venice in advance. This system has not yet been activated, but once online, day visitors will need to pre-register and select the day on which they plan to visit the city.

This new system is being implemented to help visitors contribute to the protection and safeguarding of Venice. All the money from these taxes goes directly toward improving the quality of public services and museums. As well as maintenance to prevent this historic city from sinking into the ground forever.

Start of the Tour: St. Mark’s Square

The best place to start your tour is standing in the centre of the Piazza San Marco or St. Mark’s Square. Arrive here as early as you can. There is something truly magical about being here as the sun rises on the square. You’ll see the beautiful rose-gold sunlight begin to kiss the cobblestone and bricks around you. The sun seems to bring the square to life as cafe owners take out their colourful chairs and pigeons flock around gawking tourists (but please don’t feed them!)

Standing in the centre of the square, in front of the Basilica, you can turn around 360 degrees and see one spectacular sight on top of another. In this small area, you’ll find the St Mark’s Basilica, the great Campanile (Belltower), the Procuratie, the Piazzetta, Doge’s Palace, Bridge of Sighs and Torre dell’ Orologio. There is rarely a time when you’ll visit the square when they aren’t some form of construction or renovation going on. With all these historical sights in one place, something is bound to be falling apart and in need of repair. Try to look past that and don’t let it ruin your experience.

Saint Mark

The square is named after the patron saint of Venice, Saint Mark. In 828, a relic of St. Mark was stolen from Alexandria and brought back to Venice by La Serenissima’s great naval fleet. The Venetian Doge, awed by the acquisition of this precious relic, adopted Saint Mark as the new patron Saint of Venice (whose honour had previously been given to Saint Theodore).

A city with a saintly relic immediately rose in power and prestige. Relics were the first tourist attraction of the medieval world. Pilgrims would come from all over the world to pray at the churches that preserved these relics. Pilgrims, much like tourists today, needed food and shelter. And therefore, they brought lots of money into the city.

A grand church to house the precious artifact began to be built in 836. Even back then, the church and the nearby Doge’s palace were highlights of the medieval city of Venice. A great square was needed to further showcase the opulence the Doge wanted to project. In 1172, orchards were demolished surrounding this area, and the Piazza San Marco was built. It’s been rumoured that upon visiting St. Mark’s square for the first time, Napoleon himself degreed that it was “the drawing room of Europe.”

The Procuratie

The simplistic yet elegant buildings along the north and south sides of the square are called the Procuratie. The Procuratie is most identifiable by the stunning arcade that wraps around this side of the square. The arcade features distinct Byzantine arches that shield visitors from the elements.

The Procuratie once served as the offices of the Venetian Republic, also called La Serenissima. Today they house the Correr Museum, the Museum of the Risorgimento, and the Archeological Museum. Each one of these is an incredible place to visit. But the Correr Museum is my favourite with its collection of art detailing the history of the city of Venice.

The Lion of Venice

Throughout St. Mark’s square, you’ll see various lion sculptures adorning doorways, columns and facades. The official ‘Lion of Venice’ is usually seen with his paw resting upon a bible. And he is not just any lion, but St. Mark’s Lion. St. Mark was often referred to as a lion, as he preached the word of the lord so powerfully it almost seemed like a roar. Legend says that when St. Mark was travelling through Europe and arrived in Venice, he was visited by an angel. The angel told him Venice would be where his body would rest for eternity. His remains were originally interred in Alexandra but moved to Venice, where the basilica was built to honour them as the angel had foreseen.

Caffe Florian

Now housed inside one of the old Procuratie is perhaps the most sumptuous cafe in Venice or perhaps Europe itself. Although this cafe is by no means cheap, it’s a splurge that I think is worth it to experience the incredible interiors and history to be found within. The Caffe Florian was founded in 1720 and has served patrons like Charles Dickens and Lord Byron. There is a €6 cover charge to even enter the cafe. But along with enjoying the lavish interiors, you’ll also be treated to live music throughout the cafe. Palacial red velvet couches and chairs are spread across the huge cafe, a maze of cozy antechambers. Each room is covered in ornate paintings, large Murano glass mirrors, gold foiled frames and intricate frescos plastered on the ceiling.

To save money, go to the bar and order your food or drinks there. Although you won’t get a seat, the bar menu is vastly cheaper than table service. An espresso at the bar will still run you €5, but again, you’re here for the atmosphere. If you’d rather save your money, you can opt to give this a miss. Instead, grab a coffee on your way toward St. Mark’s square from any local cafe to enjoy while you peruse the sights around you.

The Campanile

Standing guard in the centre of the square is the 323ft tall Campanile or Belltower. The low-level buildings throughout Venice are in stark contrast to the towering red brick Campanile. Its little pointed tower pokes out atop the skyline no matter where you end up in Venice. While the original tower was built in 1514, the current one is a reconstruction from 1912 after its collapse in 1902. It’s incredible to imagine that such a tall structure could survive for so long-standing atop the shifting waters below. But it wasn’t actually the water which proved to be the biggest enemy of the tower; it was lightning. Lightning struck the tower multiple times over the years, causing several fires and severe internal damage to the structure.

The Bells of the Campanile

The tall base of the tower is designed with a fluted shaft that reaches up towards the belfry. On each side of the belfry are a series of arched windows looking out over the square. Inside the belfry are five huge bells. Each one was used to call the people of Venice to attention. The bells have their own distinctive name and special significance. The Renghiera bell announced executions. The Mezza Terza would declare that a session of the Senate was taking place. The Nona sounded the midday hour. The Trottiera was used to assemble the Maggiore Consiglio and the Marangoni, the largest of the bells, rang to mark the beginning and end of the working day. Before anyone even had watches to tell time or Twitter to announce the day’s news, these bells were all the public had to get collective, daily information.

Above the arches of the belfry is another level of brickwork decorated with various sculptures on either side. On one farside, you’ll see the Lion of St. Mark and on the other, the female representation of Venice, in the shape of the Lady Justice. The golden weathervane which crowns the tower is sculptured into the angel Gabriel. He stands tall, reaching out toward the citizens below.

Torre Dell’Orologio

Turn to the square’s northeast corner, and look up at the bright blue and gold details decorating the fantastical Torre Dell’Orologio. In the morning light, the sun glints off the golden dials. The clock was built in the 15th century when the possession of a mechanical clock symbolized the wealth and power of a city. The clock was positioned facing out towards the water so that any foreign ships could see the time from the canals as they passed through. With a spyglass, of course, their eyesight wasn’t that good.

Atop the tower containing the clock, you can see two small bronze figures who carry large hammers in their hand. These figures move upon the hour to strike the bell, causing the bells to ring. One of the figures is a young man, and the other is an old man, symbolizing the passage of time. Once more, we see the image of the Lion of Venice above the clock, set against a blue sky of golden stars. Below the lion is the figure of the Virgin Mary with the baby Jesus wrapped in her arms. On either side of her are two blue panels with the time represented in roman numerals on the left. And on the right in Arabic numerals, as was the tradition during the Byzantine era.

The Clock Face

The most impressive feature of the clock are the blue and gold sculptural engravings set within the numerals. Each one was fantastically carved to represent the signs of the zodiac. The central dial, emblazed with the sun’s image, revolves around the zodiac signs. But rather than showing the time, the sundial marks the date. The smallest dial, closest to the central, holds a tiny orb representing the phase of the moon that changes throughout the year.

St Mark’s Basilica

St. Mark’s Basilica is one of the most precious treasures from the Byzantine period. Preserved in amber, there are so many aspects of history, art, culture and faith from that era. The most significant elements of the church’s design are the mighty, tiled onion domes that glitter against the sea-blue sky. The bulb-shaped domes with their golden finials lanterns give the church that middle eastern appearance that defined Byzantine art and architecture.

Exterior Design of St. Mark’s

The exterior of St. Mark’s Basilica can be studied by looking at its three distinctive areas; the lower level, upper level, and domes. The lower-level mosaics portray scenes from the life of Saint Mark, for whom the church derives its name. In the central arch where the enormous doorway is located, there is the largest mosaic, which depicts the Last Judgment. The original mosaic would have been made in the 13th century, but this current incarnation is from the 19th century after much-needed restorations. The portals that lead into the church are held up by marble columns in a plethora of colours and patterns. Each one is set inwards, towards the doorway, creating a foreshortening perspective. Giving the viewer the effect of being pulled into the church.

On either side of the central portal, the mosaics depict the life of St. Mark. The mosaic on the left is the only surviving piece from the 13th century. Above these central portals, we can study the arched lunettes. These mosaics depict the life of Christ.

The Balcony

The upper-level balcony is home to four important bronze horses. These are the Horses of Saint Mark-Lysippos. Originally stolen from Constantinople in 1252. The ones outside the church today are replicas of the original sculptures, as these suffered terribly from the elements. They were brought inside the church museum to ensure they could be preserved for years. The bronze horses date all the way back to classical antiquity. It is rumoured that perhaps they were once a part of the Arch of Trajan in Rome. Positioned pulling an emperor’s chariot. But these horses were one of the many trophies collected during the Crusades, which is how they journeyed to Venice.

Ogee Arches

Arching behind the golden horses and above the second-floor lunettes are a series of ogee arches. Ogee arches are a type of arch with an S-shaped curve consisting of two arcs that meet at a point. Not only do these designs add an aesthetically pleasing element to the building, but they also serve a functional purpose by providing additional support for the structure. Ogee arches have a rich history in architecture and can be traced back to various ancient civilizations, including the Romans and the Greeks. However, the use of ogee arches in Islamic architecture during the 12th and 13th centuries is where they gained prominence and influenced such structures as the basilica we see today. 

Set within the central arch is the gilded and winged lion of Venice. Standing brightly against the blue-tiled sky and golden stars. Saint Mark and his choir of six angels decorated the top of the facade, looking down on the throngs of visitors below. 

Admission & Tickets to St. Mark’s Basilica

If you want to go inside the Basilica, be warned that the queue can get very long. And you need to book your tickets in advance and select the exact arrival time. But even with these timed tickets, you will still need to wait in line. Reserved timed tickets to cost €20.50 and include an audio guide. There is also an option to purchase a skip-the-line ticket, but this will cost €39. Free cancellation is included in your ticket, which must be done 24 hours in advance for a full refund. I would choose the earliest reservation time to ensure you are the first in the door, leaving the rest of your day open.

No large bags or backpacks are allowed inside the basilica. If you have one, leave it at the Ateneo San Basso in the Piazzetta dei Leoncini (at the north facade to the left of the main entrance.) Be sure to do this before you get in line as you don’t want to be turned away and have to line up again. Remember that the basilica requires guests to adhere to their dress code. No bare shoulders or shorts, and men should wear shirts. 

Interior of St. Mark’s Basilica

Upon entering the church, you’ll first notice the overwhelming amount of golden mosaics covering everything from the floors to the ceiling of the building. There are over 85,000 square feet of mosaics in St. Mark’s Basilica. The light reflects off the surface of the glass, and depending on the time of the day, the light can change the effect and the appearance of the interior. There was such a large amount of gold used in the church’s construction that the residents of Venice began to call it the Chizea d’Oro or the Gold Church.

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Because the Basilica was built during the Byzantine age, architectural methods weren’t as advanced as they are now. You’ll notice thick walls, hundreds of columns and the heavy use of marble, which were used as rudimentary supports. They needed to use the strongest of materials to help keep the multi-domed ceiling from caving in.

Inside the church are the treasures of the fourth crusade on the holy land. During the 4th century, Venice deemed itself the holiest place on earth. And therefore, all the treasures crusading armies found were brought to Venice. One such treasure was the Pala d’Oro. The Pala d’Oro is the frame enclosing the high altar inside the church. It is decorated with panels featuring 1,300 pearls, 300 emeralds, 300 sapphires, 400 garnets, 100 amethysts, rubies, and topazes. A glittering masterpiece.

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Porta Della Carta

When you exit the church, be sure to take a moment to study the Porta della Carta on the south side of the church. In 1442, the ceremonial entrance was built to connect the basilica to the Doge’s Palace. The doorway is dripping in gothic ornamentation, with two tall, thin pinnacles flanking either side of the statue of the Doge Francesco Foscari. The statue of the Doge is seen kneeling before the Lion of Saint Mark. Below each pinnacle, we can also spot various statues representing the cardinal virtues.  

Doge’s Palace

A Venetian Doge is something that many of you may not have heard of before. A Doge is pretty much like an English Duke; who served as the leader of the Republic of Venice from 726 to 1797. The Doge would rule over Venice from his seat of power inside the incredible Doge’s Palace. Today the building serves as a public museum.

The building itself is a wonder to behold. Despite the enormity of the upper structure, it looks almost weightless as it is supported by these delicate pink Verona marble columns. The columns are decorated with a lacy pattern, making them look even more fragile. The top of the building is adorned with spiked merlons that look like meringue frosting atop this architectural cake.

Walk through the arcade under the Doge’s Palace and study the individual capitals atop the exterior columns. Each one features a different set of sculptures with various animals, vegetal designs and more!

Piazzetta 

Past the Basilica, walk south towards the water, where you can find the Piazzetta. The Piazzetta is the smaller square to the south of the main square. In the middle of the square are two large two columns made of red marble. These two columns were where death sentences were announced during the medieval ages.

At the top of the columns are two statues. Each depicts one of the patron saints of Venice, St. Mark and St. Theodore, on the left and right, respectively, if you’re facing the water. St. Mark is depicted as the winged lion of Venice, and St. Theodore can be seen standing atop, of all things, a crocodile. In his hand, he holds a spear which we can assume he used to slay the giant crocodile. Saint Theodore is commonly known for slaying a dragon, not a crocodile. But perhaps the Venetian artists of the time had little knowledge of what a real dragon looked like, so instead, they carved the next best thing, which I guess was a crocodile. Makes sense when you think about it!

The Bridge of Sighs

Walk around the Doge’s Palace until you turn to face the Bridge of Sighs. The bridge of sighs was created to join the interrogation rooms of the Doge’s Palace to the prison across the canal. If you were found guilty by the Serenissima, you were sent to prison, but upon crossing the bridge, you were allowed to look out at Venice one last time. Two small, square windows on the bridge allowed prisoners this one moment of reflection before facing their possible lifetime of imprisonment. The windows on the bridge are covered in tightly knit wrought iron bars, so no one could make an escape.

Calle de Fabbri

Head back to the area in front of the Basilica, and walk north along the Calle de Fabbri, crossing over the Ponte dei Dai. Calle is the Italian word for a narrow street. Like many streets in Venice, this one is named after the occupation of the people who worked in this area. Fabbri means locksmith, and it was along his street where you’d once have found the city’s locksmiths at work. Head northwest on Calle dei Fabbri and turn left onto Calle S. Gallo until you reach the Ponte Tron.

Ponte Tron

Due to the proximity to St. Mark’s square, this bridge is often pretty crowded. But its old stone design and views out to the gondola-covered canals aren’t anything to whizz past. If you’re lucky enough to be here when it’s quiet, this is one of the more romantic spots in the city. Even on busy days, I love just standing here just watching the gondola traffic. Sometimes dozens of gondolas get stuck in this narrow canal. See, even Venice has traffic jams!

Pont dei Fuseri

Continue southwest on Calle Tron, turning right onto Calle Frezzaria as it curves and becomes Calle Barcaroli. Make a right north onto Ramo dei Fuseri to the bridge Ponte Dei Fuseri. There are 400 bridges in Venice which cross 150 canals! Before Venice’s bridges were built, these little islands all acted as their own private communities. These communities needed to be self-serving with their own churches, markets, shops, and micro-culture. Even today, you can still make out the borders of these various micro-neighbourhoods as you cross from one bridge to another. As you reach the Pont dei Fusari, you are finally starting to get away from the tourist crowds, and the real Venice starts to open up for you. 

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Continue along Calle dei Fuseri and turn left onto Calle de la Vida o de le Locande. Then, turn left onto Scala Contarini del Bovolo, where you’ll find the towering Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo.

Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo

This brick Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo has become an iconic viewpoint in Venice. The Palazzo’s incredible, honeycomb-like spiral staircase, with a fantastic balcony at the top, provides one of the most amazing views across the city and over St. Mark’s square. The staircase is called the “Scala Contarini del Bovolo” or “the snail.”

Built in the 15th century for the wealthy Contarini family, the house became notable for its unique outer staircase. In 1952 Orson Welles also fell in love with the house. He even featured it in his film adaptation of Shakespeare’s Othello. The Palazzo was closed for many years, but in 2016 it opened its doors to the public. You can climb the stairs to the top for three euros and get a snap of the skyline.

Corte Teatro & Teatro Goldoni

Head back to the Calle de la Vida o de le Locande and walk west towards the Calle de la Vida o de le Locande/Campo Manin. Turn right onto Rio Terrà S. Paternian, then make another left onto Calle Minelli. Walk along Minelli until you reach the Corte Teatro. Walking along the Corte Teatro until you come to the square at the end of the street.

This dreamy square, with a lovely nearby cafe, is surrounded by red and yellow-painted buildings. But dominating the square is also a HUGE boring grey wall. Why are we looking at a large grey wall, you ask? Well, this is the back entrance to the Teatro Goldoni. But Why are we looking at the back, not the front? Well, the front is even less interesting if you can believe it. But the history of this building is such an important part of Venice’s past that it’s worth stopping here for the story!

During the 17th century, trade had begun to twindle in Venice, with other European ports being able to accept larger ships than Venice. Rich families who had made their money in trade needed to suddenly find other means of earning funds. In the 17th century, Opera was quickly becoming the most popular activity for the aristocrats to indulge in. But at the time, it was only performed in private courts. Seeing an opportunity here, rich Venetian families began to invest in building theatres that could bring Opera and music to the public.

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Teatro Vendramin

Suddenly, theatres began to pop up all over Venice, each vying for the most popular singers to draw in the biggest audience. The Teatro Vendramin was the original name of the first theatre, which stood here in 1622. It was built by the illustrious Vendramin family. The theatre was renovated in 1720 and named after the infamous Venetian actor Carlo Goldoni.

But the renovation of 1720 destroyed all of the original, elaborate Renaissance architecture, and we were left with the boring interior and exterior design you can see today. Luckily, some intelligent historians preserved the archives before the renovation. This included a copy of every play, the list of previous actors and, most importantly, the original architectural drawings was saved as well.

The theatre was kept in the same family for years. And when it came time to restore it in the 19th century, architects could discover precisely what the original theatre looked like inside and restore its interior to its former beauty. Sadly, we are still waiting for the exterior to get the same treatment. Today, the theatre is used by the Teatro Stabile del Veneto to put on modern productions and musical performances.

The Grand Canal

Continue walking north along the Corte Theatro, through an almost impossibly narrow alley, until you emerge out into the bright light of the Grand Canal along the Riva del Carbon. As this is the first time we are really faced with the view of the Grand Canal, we should talk a little bit about this ever-so-important waterway. The Venetian Grand Canal splits the city of Venice in two. 

The original waterway was much narrower and was a branch of the river Brenta. Ancient Venetian fishermen were once the only ones who lived along its shores in simple stilt houses. Stilt houses ensured the rising tides didn’t wash their houses away.

History of the Grand Canal

It wasn’t until the 9th century, when the Doge moved his palace into the more protected area of what would become St Mark’s square, that the canal was widened. A broader canal was needed to make room for the enormous ships which were brought in and used to bring building materials for the grand palace. The canal soon became less of a fishing spot and more like a luxurious main street, but one made of water. Wealthy families began buying cheap property and building huge manors along the now Grand Canal.

The grand canal was now the main entryway into the city, and the Venetian Republic wanted every building lining it to demonstrate the city’s power, wealth and artistic sensibilities. Like a parade of the best architecture Europe had to offer. This huge canal is now flanked by 170 illustrious buildings. Some dating back to as early as the 13th century.

Palazzo Bembo

Turn right and walk along with the Riva del Carbon until you reach a stone bridge. Stop just before the bridge to admire the red building to your right. This is the Palazzo Bembo. This unbelievable building was owned by the Bembo family and was built in the 15th century! Obviously, there has been many renovations and restorations over time, but the original structure shockingly remains much unchanged.

The design of the building encompasses much of what traditional Venetian architecture looked like in the 15th century. The Byzantine influence was still going strong! And you can spot various of their traditional elements fused together here in the polyforms which cover the facade. A polyform is a multi-light window used on the upper floors to bring light into the structure by using wider openings. 

Pietro Bembo was born in Venice in 1470 and built the Palazzo Bembo as his lavish residence. Pietro Bembo was one of the most influential Venetian scholars and writers who helped develop the Tuscan language. He also spent much of his life creating and promoting a madrigal, a secular form of music developed during the Renaissance. He believed that music should be for more than just religious devotion. That music could be used to express everyday human emotion. That seems obvious to us now, but at the time, music was mainly composed for the church. And the subject matter was exclusively religious. We have Pietro Bembo to thank, in a small part, for why we have pop and rock music today!

Rialto Bridge

Continue along with the Riva del Carbon as it turns into the Riva del Ferro, walking along the edge of the Grand Canal. Emerging from the last arcade, you’ll be greeted almost immediately by the sight of the bright white stones of the Rialto bridge. The Rialto Bridge is the most famous of Venice’s canal bridges. It is also the oldest of the four major bridges connecting the various districts and neighbourhoods. The original bridge built here in 1173 was first made of wood. It went by the name Ponte Della Moneta, which means “money bridge.” The name reflected the industry of the area. This was where the largest mint in Venice once stood. People would flood into their area and cross the bridge at all hours of the day to deposit and take out their cash!

The old wooden bridge was split down the center and could be raised on either side to allow tall ships to enter these narrow canals. This was of the utmost importance, especially when the Rialto Market opened, as boats would come in mass to deliver fresh fruits, vegetables and fish to the centre of Venice. But as time passed, the old wooden bridge wasn’t up to snuff. After years and years of wear, riots, fires and crowds, eventually, it collapsed.

New Rialto Bridge

The new Rialto bridge design was completed in 1551. The architect who designed it did away with the raised wooden design and favoured stone as it was more durable and could last the test of time. Since the stone bridge couldn’t be raised, he needed to ensure that it was tall enough at its peak to accommodate the galley ships that needed to pass through. The result was this grand arched design that has such a theatrical quality to it.

Atop the stone bridge are a series of covered porticos which contain shops on either side. The addition of shops allowed the bridge to earn rent on the space. The money from this goes towards the maintenance of the bridge. A large arch, like the crown, is set in the center of the porticos atop this stunning structure.

Avoiding the Tourist Traps

Unfortunately, the shops along the bridge are somewhat of a tourist trap, selling tacky souvenirs along the entire walkway. But, if you look at it from afar, you can ignore the tourist tat and focus only on the gorgeous silhouette it forms about the teal waters of the canal.

If you’re looking for a spot to sit to enjoy the view, there are these two little nooks on the bottom of the bridge where you can sit beside the water. This is one of the most amazing places to watch boats and gondolas float by, with stacks of fruits and vegetables coming into the market as the midday sun casts its bright rays down on the city. Once you’ve taken in all, there is to see below, walk up the bridge and make sure to stop in the centre to get that iconic view across Venice and the Grand Canal.

Chiesa di San Giacomo di Rialto

Crossing the bridge and heading to the island on the other side, you’ll walk through the Campo de San Giacomo di Rialto. This unassuming square is dominated by a rather small, strange-looking church. This is the Chiesa di San Giacomo di Rialto, supposedly the oldest church in Venice, consecrated in 421! The most unique aspect of this church is the huge clock set into its 15th-century facade.

This area of Venice, known as San Silvestro, was where all the wealthy bankers of the city lived. The bankers who lived here funded the church’s renovation, and while construction went on, they added a large clock and bell tower to its design. Being able to tell the time was of the utmost importance for traders and bankers. While clockfaces aren’t that uncommon on buildings around Venice, this one is absurdly large. Those bankers really wanted the most bang for their buck! It’s also interesting to note that the hours aren’t positioned as they are on modern-day clocks. Whereas most clocks now only have 12 number positions, this one displays all 24. Ironically enough, this clock is a notoriously bad timekeeper. So don’t be fooled if you think you’ve lost an hour of your life somewhere in the streets of Venice. 

Venetian Street Names

As we make our way toward the Mercado di Rialto, we walk along the Ruga Degli Oresi. Like many streets in Venice, the Ruga Degli Oresi gets its name from the professions or trades which once were active in the area. Orsi means goldsmith, as there was once a large faction of gold and jewellery traders working here. Many other notable streets in Venice have the same kind of naming convention. There is the Calle de la Malvasia, where you’d find the winemakers.

The Campiello del Remer for the rowboats, the Calle de Forni, which was where you’d find the bakers, the Botteri for the coppers, Calle de Magazine for the grocery shops and even the Calle de Fiubera for the buckle makers! This would have made finding what you were looking to buy so simple! No need for yellow pages or even google! Find the street with the corresponding name, and you’re in the right spot.

Mercado di Rialto

Now that you’ve been introduced to the city’s history, it’s time to meet the people of Venice. And there is no better place to get a peek into the real lives of its residents than to head to the Rialto Market! The Rialto Market is one of the last remaining fresh food markets in the city and, as such, is a bustling place for locals to come and buy their food. Unlike in North America, where we shop for a week’s worth of food at a large chain grocery store, Italians buy only what they need for that day. And repeat the process every day of the week. While this might sound exhausting, it means fresh food every day and the chance to make lasting relationships with the vendors you buy your food from. Something I dearly long for and admire greatly when visiting cities like Venice.

History of the Rialto Market

But the Rialto Market is much more than just a place to get some of the best food in the city! It is also a place of great historical value. Of all the rich bankers and traders who lived in the region, the most famous were the Rivoalto family. The Rivoalto traders were one of the first families to come into the lagoon to set up a trading post. They picked this location because it was well situated along the bend of the canal. This meant it was located on higher ground and therefore was spared from some floodings that other parts of the island suffered through. 

The first known market opened here in 1097. Because the family didn’t have to constantly rebuild their homes, they were in a much better financial position than many other families in the area. There wasn’t home insurance to help you back then. The Rivoaltos grew in prominence and wealth and soon controlled so much of the neighbourhood that the area was named after them.

Layout of the Market

The outdoor portion of the market is where you’ll find seasonal fruits and vegetables under brightly coloured awnings. If you’re looking for a snack, there is nothing more refreshing than a basket of fresh fruit!

Opposite the green awning of the outdoor market is the neo-gothic fish hall, or Pescheria, built in the early 1900s. Outside the red brick building, there is still a marble plaque which you should study before heading inside. This plaque denotes the different types of fish allowed to be legally sold here when the marketplace was first built. Certain varieties of fish were being overcaught, and laws were set in place to ensure there was a limit on how many a household could buy to prevent their depopulation.

The Fish Hall

The fish hall is a rustic building with dramatic arches surrounding the exterior. Towering columns continue throughout the interior, making a simple stone building feel rich and illustrious. Fresh fish has long been one of the most important resources in Venice. All they have to do is throw out their rod, and the freshest fish comes jumping out of the sea and pouring into the market. It can’t get much more local than that!

The marketplace was facing the chance of being shut down a few years ago due to a possible canal expansion for cruise ships. Thankfully, the citizens convinced the city to put a stop to this, and the market was saved. But as more and more people shop at larger grocery stores on the island, markets like this always face the chance of being closed. So if you visit, buy at least a little something to show your support. We bought some fresh raspberries and cherries, and they were absolutely delicious. The perfect on-the-go treat!

Ca’ d’Oro

Before heading to our next stop, walk to the corner of the Fondamenta de le Prigioni, across from the Campo de la Pescaria. From here, you have a perfect view across the Canal towards the Ca’ d’Oro. The Ca’ d’Oro of Palazzo Santa Sofia was an illustrious palace built along the Grand Canal for the Contarini family in 1428. The Contarini family was responsible for rearing eight different Doges and was one of the wealthiest families in Venice.

To show off their wealth and power, they wanted to create a palace that mirrored the greatness of the Doge’s Palace in St. Mark’s square. Ca’ d’Oro means the golden house. When the building was first constructed, the entire facade was covered in gilt polychrome, giving the effect of being made entirely of gold!

Venetian Gothic

The palace’s architecture is one of the best-surviving examples of Venetian Gothic architecture. The iconic elements characteristic of this style are gallery windows with heavy tracery details featuring quatrefoil designs and byzantine-inspired decorations. Ogee arches span the balcony’s facade, each capped with a wonderfully carved relief ornament.

Inside, the lavish details continue. Even the flooring was made into a work of art. Different coloured stones were used to create fanciful patterns. Since 1927, the building has served as the Galleria Giorgio Franchetti, which features a wonderful collection of 15th-century art.

Riding a Traghetto

Instead of backtracking over the Rialto bridge to get to Cannaregio island (our next stop), we’re going to opt for a very Venetian method of crossing the canal, a Traghetto! You can find the Traghetto ferry dock along the Fondamenta de le Prigioni, across from the Campo de la Pescaria. Walk over to the water’s edge, where you’ll see a small dock and what appears to be a series of black gondolas. “But gondolas are so expensive!” you say. And rightly so, they are. But these are not gondolas; they are traghetti. A traghetto (or traghetti if you’re referring to them as plural) means ferry in Italian. These little ferry boats take passengers across the Grand Canal when there are no nearby bridges.

This is essentially how many Venetians would have made these crossings long ago. A trip on a traghetto costs €2, which might seem a bit pricey for a quick journey, but they save you a ton of time. Plus, it gives you a short but sweet experience on a gondola-type boat. Sure, you might have to share it with a group but it’s the same design, just less romantic. The trip across the water provides a beautiful view of the Ca’ d’Oro from afar, so you can better study all of it in all its glory before getting up close and personal. The Traghetto will let you off at the Santa Sofia in the neighbourhood of Cannaregio.

Cannaregio

This area of the island is called Cannaregio. Cannaregio is home to the old Jewish Quarter and is where most of Venice’s permanent residents live. This means that you’ll see things more than just tourist attractions. Places like schools, corner stores, and traditional Venetian houses aren’t sprawling palazzos. If you’re looking for somewhere to stay in Venice, Cannaregio is my favourite spot, as it feels like the community’s beating heart.

Ponte Chiodo

We are going to set off into Cannaregio via the Strada Nova. The Strada Nova a wide pedestrian street lined with shops and cafes. Turn right from the Strada Nova onto Fondamenta S. Felice. This is such a picturesque street and peaceful canal. As you look down along the canal, you can see four different bridges all along one short stretch of water. The most interesting of these bridges is towards the end of the street, called the Ponte Chiodo. The Ponte Chiodo dates back to the fifteenth century and is one of the last two bridges that doesn’t have any balustrades to prevent people from falling right into the canal! The city built another bridge just next to it with proper railings but kept the old one as a memory of the past. 

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Scuola Grande della Misericordia

We continue west into Cannaregio across the Ponte della Misericordia to the first of two old schools we will look at. The Scuola Grande della Misericordia dominates the northern side of the sestiere Cannaregio. The Scuola Grande della Misericordia (New School of Mercy) was one of seven Scuole Grandi in Venice. These “Scuole Grandi” or “Great Schools” were religious and charitable organizations. Developed in the 13th century, they were the most important social institutions in the Serenissima Republic of Venice. The secular institutions played a crucial role in the fabric of political and religious life. The Old School of Mercy was built in 1308 in the typical gothic style (we will see this building at the next stop.) 

But as the organization grew in size, a new building was commissioned to house the growing organization. Jacopo Sansovino was brought on to build the “Scuola Nuova,” or New School. Built in 1532, the imposing quadrangular structure was strongly influenced by Roman classicism. Building work continued over the next fifty years; unfortunately, Sansovino died before the building was completed. Today the building is used as a gallery and events space, but the exterior architecture has been preserved for us to admire.

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Scuola Vecchia della Misericordia 

Head northeast on Sestiere Cannaregio toward Campo de l’Abazia. In this small square, you can see the old Chiesa dell’Abbazia della Misericordia in one corner and the original Scuola Vecchia della Misericordia in the other. The Scuola Vecchia della Misericordia (“Old School of Mercy”) was the first seat of the organization. When they built the new school, this building was sold off to the guild of the silk weavers in 1634.

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Casa del Tintoretto

Continue west along Fondamenta de l’Abazia, across the wooden Ponte dei Muti, then along Corte dei Muti and turn left toward Fondamenta dei Mori. Along this canal-side street is the old Casa del Tintoretto. This crumbling old house bears a small plaque with the bust of a man on the top. This is the Casa del Tintoretto, where the artist Tintoretto lived from 1574 to 1594. Tintoretto is one of the few artists who lived and worked in Venice but who was also born here. Many artists flocked to Venice during the Renaissance as the art scene exploded, but Tintoretto was the original trendsetter. His great work helped form the Venetian school of art and even perhaps the artist style which defined the Renaissance itself.

Campo dei Mori

Continuing west, you are greeted by the small, peaceful square Campo dei Mori. As you turn into the square, take note of the strange statue on the corner of the Osteria l’Orto dei Mori. This statue looks almost as if it has a beak. Three carvings were made in the 13th century, one in each corner. They represent the three merchant brothers who famously opposed the Republic of Venice. Back then, it was treason to speak up against your government. In reaction to their controversial attitude, these unflattering carvings were made to mark their treason in stone forever. Years later, their bravery in speaking out against injustice is honoured, and the statues are revered. Venetians today are known to hang satirical comments on these statues. Addressing and airing their problems with local politicians.

Church of Madonna dell’ Orto

Continue north, along the Campo Dei Mori, and head across the bridge. Here you’ll come face to face with the grand Church of Madonna dell Orto. Considering this church’s history and beauty, you’d think it would be overrun with tourists. But, since it’s located so far away from the city centre, often you’ll find this square empty and all to yourself!

The church was first constructed in the mid-14th century for the Humailiati order. Never heard of them? Not surprising since they were ousted from Italy in 1462. Despite their name Humiliati, meaning “humble,” the pope famously referred to them as humiliating. He believed them to take part in sacrilegious behaviours, which included gluttony and lust. One of their members even tried to assassinate archbishop Carlo Borromeo, whose task was to reform their order. While the order was definitely not the most pious, they were certainly great art lovers, which can be seen in the design and decoration of this great church.

Church Facade

This church’s facade is one of my favourite pieces of architecture. There are so many tiny details packed into this small space. The current facade dates back to 1460. The sloped sides of the church are lined with a series of twelve niches, where dozens of statues are placed depicting the twelve Apostles. The niches are each framed in bright white columns creating this very visually powerful ribbon effect along the roofline. On either side of the entrance door are two huge quadruple-mullioned windows that allow light to flow into the church’s interior.

Atop the ornate ogee archway leading into the church is the statue of St. Christopher, the patron saint of travellers. This was the saint the church was initially dedicated to. However, it changed consecration to the Holy Virgin later in the century. On either side of St. Christoper are statues of the Madonna and the Archangel Gabriel. Above St. Christoper, the pointed roof is decorated in small arches and bas-reliefs with geometrical motifs. The large Eastern-style onion-domed bell tower is surrounded by four statues of the Evangelists. And at the very top is a statue of the Redeemer made in white marble.

Church Interior

Enter the church if it’s open, as this church contains some fantastic works of art. As this is the district where Tintoretto lived, this church contains three different pieces from the great artist. Works by Tintoretto in the church include a Presentation in the Temple (South aisle, close to the East end), Adoration of the Golden Calf, Last Judgement (both in the apse, either side of the main altar) and the Four Cardinal Virtues (in the upper storey of the apse, behind the altar), all from 1562 to 1564. Walk into the apse and find your way to the right Chapel. On the floor is a simple engraved tomb where master Tintoretto is now laid to rest. Happily surrounded by his amazing works of art.

Jewish Quarter

From the Campo della Madonna dell’Orto head southwest along the Fondamenta Madona de l’Orto. Turn left onto Calle Loredan, where you’ll pass over a few little wooden bridges. When you arrive at Ponte del Forno, cross over onto the Calle del Forno. Turn right onto Fondamenta dei Ormesini and walk for a few minutes admiring the many different cafes and restaurants along this street beside the canal. When you spot the gorgeous iron bridge covered in swirling filagree, turn left onto Cl. Ghetto Vecchio into the heart of the Jewish Quarter. Hearing the words Jewish Ghetto, you might think we are entering an area built during WWII, but this ghetto had nothing to do with the Nazis. This neighbourhood actually area predates WWII by more than 400 years!

History of the Jewish Quarter in Venice

In 1509, a large portion of the Jewish community from Germany fled the mainland and moved to Venice. Venice had agreed to allow these Jewish refugees to live inside a small neighbourhood on the island of Cannaregio. But in that area alone. The area they were segregated inside was no bigger than an acre and contained hundreds of Jewish refugees. The old district had once been the location of the old copper foundries. The word ghetto was actually coined in Venice. In Italian, the word ghetto or ‘get’ translates to ‘foundry’ or ‘foundries.’ But over time, the word became synonymous with an area where members of a minority group live, as was in the case of the original Jewish ghetto in Venice.

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Although Venice had given them a place to live, that didn’t mean their life was free and easy. Jewish Venetians were forced to make their living only by selling rags and running pawnshops. This was the only type of employment they were allowed to have at the time. The only exception was Jewish doctors and those with skills in the printing press industries. They worked on printing Hebrew texts and keeping their religion and culture alive in the Ghetto Ebraico or Jewish Ghetto.

Merchant of Venice

In the 16th century, Jewish citizens from Spain fleeing the Spanish inquisition also arrived in the ghetto. These Jewish Spaniards developed the narrative of the “merchants of Venice.” They were skilled and sought-after traders and merchants. Soon, the Jewish quarter was the centre of foreign trade in Venice. This new industry brought in a substantial amount of money to the Serenissima, allowing them to stay in business despite previous restrictions on this kind of work in the quarter.

Although Venice allowed Jewish people to live and worship in this area, their lives were highly regulated and segregated. As early as the 16th century, Jewish citizens had to wear either yellow hats or yellow badges to distinguish them from Venetian Christians. The ghetto also had a strict curfew which the residents had to follow. Boats filled with members of the Serenissima would circle the canals at night to ensure no one broke curfew. The punishment for doing so was severe. To many residents, this area must have felt more like a prison than an escape from the persecution they had been trying to flee.

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The First Vertical City

Despite these restrictions, the Jewish quarter’s population grew and flourished. More synagogues began to be constructed. But residential development was difficult. Since they were limited to this small island, their only chance for expansion was to go up vertically. The Jewish quarter in Venice was known to be the first real “vertical city.” Even today, walking around this part of Cannaerigio, you’ll see how much taller these buildings are compared to the rest of the city.

In 1797, Napoleon’s entry into Venice freed the Jewish people from their ghetto. Napoleon abolished these divisions. Jewish Venetians were finally free to buy property throughout the rest of the city. Since they were now some of the wealthiest citizens, they were able to buy up some of the most beautiful palazzos on the Grand Canal. Over the years, these Jewish citizens became as much a part of Venice as any other native Italian. Perhaps because they were such an important part of the fabric of Venetian society, their betrayal at the hands of Italian fascists later in WWII was so devastating. And almost led to their extinction.

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World War II in Venice

Jewish people throughout Europe were rounded up and sent to concentration camps during WWII. But, thanks to the sacrifice of Giuseppe Jona, head of the Jewish Community in Venice, a large portion of Jewish Venetians managed to escape. When the Nazis demanded Jona make a list of Jewish people living in Venice, he agreed but used the time to warn his community. On the day he was told to deliver the list, he burnt the papers and took his own life, fearing he would be murdered for his actions. The Nazis were only able to find 243 Jewish Venetians who were deported. Only eight of them returned home.

Before WWII, Venice had a Jewish population of around 150,000. After the war, little more than 1,200 people returned to their homes. On one side of the Ghetto Nuovo square is a large bronze monument in honour of the victims of the Nazis. It was created in 1980 by artist Arbit Blata. The seven bronze panels depict several horrific tragedies Jewish people suffered during WWII. Today there are merely 450 Jewish Venetians left in Cannaregio. But they work hard to preserve and share their history with locals and visitors alike.

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Scuola Spagnola

The Scuola Spagnola, or Great Spanish Synagogue, is one of the last remaining synagogues in modern Venice. The synagogue was built in 1555, founded by Jewish Venetians who had been expelled from the Iberian peninsula. The great synagogue was built by one of Venice’s most famous architects, Baldassare Longhena. He is also notable for designing other iconic Venetian buildings, such as; the church of the Madonna Della Salute, Ca’ Pesaro and Ca’ Rezzonico. 

But the exterior of the synagogue isn’t anything like these other buildings. The facade is rather austere, with a plain, four-story cream-coloured finish. But it wasn’t for lack of inspiration, funding or skill that the exterior was so lacklustre. It was a condition of the Venetian state government in the 16th century. Although Jewish citizens were allowed to build their own places of worship, they needed to be concealed within a building that gave no appearance of being a house of worship. Essentially hiding their religion from the eyes of Christian Venetians.

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Inscribed upon the arch on the entrance of the building is a piece of script that reads, “Blessed are they that dwell in Thy House and continue to praise Thee.” On the side of the building, there is also a stone plaque with the names of all the deported Jewish Venetian families who suffered death at the hands of the Nazis. Take a moment to pay respect as you pass by.

How to Visit a Synagogue?

Although tourists can’t enter the synagogue on their own (unless attending a service), I recommend booking a guided tour through the Jewish Museum of Venice if you are interested. They have a great connection with the local community, and you know this way you are supporting the preservation of their history through your contributions.

If you were to peek inside, you would be amazed at what you’d find. Stepping inside is like walking into a fantastical jewel box. Ornate carved wooden balustrade frames the ceiling in a variety of geometric shapes. Lavish red velvet curtains with golden tassels hand in front of the windows. Giant brass chandeliers drip from the ceiling and illuminate the rest of the room with warm candlelight. The highlight of the interior is the magestic sanctuary lamp known by its Hebrew name, Ner Tamid. The light inside this holy lamp symbolizes God’s eternal presence, which will never be extinguished.

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Panificio Giovanni Volpe

Just down the street from the old Spanish Synagogue is Panificio Giovanni Volpe, one of Venice’s last remaining kosher bakeries. While visiting the Jewish quarter, it’s a good tourist practice to patronize their businesses. This is such an easy way to ensure their community continues to flourish. In this bakery, they still make many traditional Venetian desserts and also some unique Jewish recipes. Don’t be shy to ask what they recommend! Everything is delicious though.

Guglie Bridge

To cross onto the next island of Santa Croce, we need to pass over the great Guglie Bridge. This crossing was established in 1285 with an early wooden bridge, but the current stone incarnation was built in 1580. The large balustrades which run over either side of the bridge are inlaid with gargoyles that watch over the canal. It is therefore dubbed the “bridge of spies.”

Chiesa di San Geremia

Standing in the centre of the Campo San Geremia is the church of the same name. The Church of San Geremia has stood here since the 13th century, and the old brickwork on the bell tower is some of the only remaining pieces of the original church. The rest of the edifice dates back to 1753.

While the interior lacks any flashy ornamentation, this church is often seen as a pilgrimage sight because it carries the relics of Saint Lucy inside. Saint Lucy is the patron saint of eye illnesses. The story goes that she had devoted her virginity to God and would not marry. To make herself less desirable, she tore out her own eyes. When she was buried in the family mausoleum, they discovered her eyes had been miraculously restored, a sign of her martydom. She is seen frequently in paintings holding a golden plate with a pair of eyes laid upon it. Many people make a pilgrimage to this sight to pray for their own eye related illnesses.

Pasticceria Dal Mas

You’ll find my favourite bakery on the charming Rio Terà Lista di Spagna street. The Pasticceria Dal Mas has some of the best cream-filled pastries in town! Their bright green pistachio cannolis are a dream. There are a few seats inside where you can sit and order an espresso or even an Aperol spritz to enjoy with your food. If you’d rather just stand at the counter and chat, you can also do that; how very Italian of you.

Scalzi Bridge

You’ll come upon the Scalzi Bridge at the end of this street before reaching the train station. The Scalzi Bridge means “bridge of the barefoot monks” in Italian. The first bridge to be built here was right beside the old Carmelite order, also known as the “order of the barefoot monks.” But this current incarnation of the bridge is one of the city’s newest, completed in 1934. While the bridge isn’t as remarkable as some others, its modernity allows it to feel light and airy, almost defying the laws of gravity.

Santa Croce

Walking over the bridge, we are moving into the Santa Croce district. Santa Croce is where you’ll find the large train station, which brings people in and out of Venice every day. Leading to this neighbourhood being referred to as the city’s “transport hub.” Being located away from the top attractions, you’ll also find that Santa Croce has the least amount of tourists. This may be one of the reasons I find it the most pleasant to walk around. The people you’ll find on the street are locals, and there is an honest air about this neighbourhood.

Crossing over the bridge, walk southwest on the Fondamenta del Monastero to tread along water’s edge. This area of the Grand Canal is bustling with action. You’ll find more than just gondolas and vaporettos here. Motorboats carrying fruits and vegetables chug up and down the water, and boats piled with wooden beams and other construction equipment jet over to their various destinations.

Giardini Papadopoli

Turn left down Fondamenta Papadopoli where you’ll quickly see the bright green trees sticking their heads above a brick wall. This is the Giardino Papadopoli, a beautifully manicured garden where locals Venetians come to get some shade and enjoy a bit of green space. The park spans more than 8,800 square meters and was built in 1834. While Venice has ample squares and waterways, there is surprisingly little greenery and lush parkland. The Giardino Papadopoli is Venice’s version of Central Park.

Among the gravel and stone paths are a variety of different trees like cypress, cedar, different fruits, elm, oleander, mulberries, and laurel. If you are even looking for someplace to come to escape the crowds and the noise, this is the oasis you’ve been looking for!

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Campo San Rocco

Walking through the park, exit at the south end, and cross the bridge over to the Calle dei Amai. Walking along the Calle dei Amai (which turns into the Calle de le Sechere) and turn right onto Ramo Cimesin. Ramo Cimesin veers slightly right and becomes Calle Tintoretto, and passes through Campo San Rocco.

Campo San Rocco is a charming square whose centrepiece is the church of San Rocco, an impressive Renaissance structure adorned with intricate marble carvings and frescoes. The surrounding buildings feature colourful facades and elegant balconies, creating a picturesque backdrop for a leisurely stroll or a cup of coffee at one of the outdoor cafes.

Basilica dei Frari

From the Campo San Rocco, walk toward Calle Fianco de la Scuola and continue onto Salizada S. Rocco. Turn left onto Campo dei Frari, where you are immediately struck by the towering Basilica dei Frari or Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari. But most people just call it the “Frari” for short. The church is the beating heart of this neighbourhood. In 1231 the Doge Jacopo Tiepolo donated this land to the Franciscans. The original church he had built was very small. As the Franciscans rose to power, they demolished it in exchange for a larger, more impressive design that better reflected their status in the city. The current version we see today was built in the 14th century in a high Venetian Gothic style.

Looming over church is the great campanile, the second tallest tower in the city. The bell tower was built in 1396 and somehow still stands today! The unassuming facade might fool you into thinking at first blush this church isn’t very important. But in actuality, it is perhaps one of the most significant churches in the entire city.

Entry into the Church

There is a small fee to enter the church (€ 3,00), but it is more than worth it to gaze upon the interior of this church and the famous works of art found inside.

Titian

Many Doges were buried here under the watchful eye of masterful works of art by the painter Titian. Titian, a Venetian himself, painted the great altarpiece inside the church. The Assumption of the Virgin by Titian is one of the first things your eye is drawn toward as you enter the church. It sits behind the high altar, lit by the glow of the stained glass windows behind it. This piece is perhaps the best example of Titan’s masterful work. Setting the standard for Venetian art during the Renaissance.

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Titian died of the plague at 94 years old, and a memorial to his life and death stands inside the great Basilica. The monument is gigantic! Looking like a small structure rather than a statue. A version of his famous painting is carved in relief into the stone. The image of the great master himself sitting in front. On either side of the artist are two figures representing universal nature and the genius of knowledge. The other four figures set in between the large columns represent Painting, Sculpture, Graphic Art and Architecture, each one being a critical force possessed by Titian’s art.

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Campo Santa Margherita

From the church, head south through the Campo dei Frari. Turn right along Salizada San Rocco and left onto Calle S. Rocco. Cross over the Sestiere Dorsoduro and continue south down Calle S. Pantalon as it passes over the bridge, and the street turns into the Sestiere Dorsoduro. Leading you right in the Campo Santa Margherita.

The Campo Santa Margherita is a huge square in Dorsoduro District. Surrounding this square are houses that date back to the 14th and 15th centuries. Cafes have a tremendous amount of outdoor space in this large square, so you’ll hear the murmur of people laughing and the clinking of wine glasses at all hours of the day. Lovers lounge on the bright red benches, kissing under the sunlight. If you’re tired, this is a great place to end the tour early if you don’t want to explore the rest of the Dorsoduro District.

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Dorsoduro District

The Dorsoduro district is located on the bottom of the Venetian islands. This area borders the Grand Canal and the Venetian Lagoon, making it a prime spot for traders to live. While it’s not as flashy as the other districts, think of this as a blue-collar neighbourhood. I still find it to be one of the most charming areas in Venice. Dorsoduro lacks the pretensions of the other spots. Since it’s home to Venice’s Ca’ Foscari University, you’ll also find the new blood of Venetian society, its students, who liven up the streets with modern music, food and entertainment.

Ponte dei Pugni

Head to the southern end of the Campo Santa Margherita and make a sharp left onto the Rio Terà Canal. Turn right to stay on Rio Terà Canal until you reach the Ponte dei Pugni. I love the view from this bridge. If you look towards the west, you can see the brick bell tower from the church of Santa Maria del Carmelo sticking its head up above the other buildings. 

On either side of the bridge are a pair of footsteps marked onto the stones. This marking reveals a strange practice from the 18th century. Whenever two rival families were feuding, they would come here to battle it out with their fists. Unlike gun duals in the United States which were common to settle violent disputes, Venetians would fight each other with their fists. The first one to fall into the canal off this bridge was deemed the loser.

Cantine del Vino già Schiavi

We are approaching the evening by this time, but it’s not time for just yet dinner. Oh no, first we must have an aperitif! And one of the best places to get it in Dorsoduro is Cantine del Vino già Schiavi. This bar sells Cicchetti (small snacks), which include Venetian classics like crostini topped with salt cod and wild garlic, pistachio cream or aioli with flower petals. Grab an Aperol spritz to drink while standing at the bar to feel very much like a local.

Calle Nuova Sant’Agnese

Head northeast until you reach the Calle Nuova Sant’Agnese. This narrow street is filled with a variety of different shops. Being so far away from the touristy areas, these stores are known to sell authentic Venetian goods but at reasonable prices. In addition to the tourist shops, you’ll also find unique boutiques, which are a great way to support local businesses.

Basilica di Santa Maria Della Salute

If you’re still feeling up for it, continue walking through Dorsoduro, eastwards, along the Calle Nuova Sant’Agnese (which turns into Piscina Forner.) Continue onto Calle de la Chiesa and make a slight left onto Fondamenta Venier dai Leon walking along as it becomes Fondamenta Venier dai Leon. Turns left along Dorsoduro Street and follow the street into the Campiello Barbaro. Walk east along the Calle Barbaro as it becomes Calle San Gregorio and veer onto Calle de l’Abazia.

Stepping onto the stone of the Fondamenta Salute, you find yourself standing in front of the stunning white marble church of Basilica di Santa Maria Della Salute. Take a moment to both soak in the view of the church but also turn around to look at the great view of Saint Mark’s square across the river. This is where we first started the tour, and it’s amazing to see this spot from another perspective.

The Venetian Plague

In 1630 Venice was being ravaged by the plague. At the time, one of the ways people thought you could stop the plague was by making an offering to God and praying he would send deliverance to the city. So, the Republic of Venice built the church of Our Lady of Health as a last resort. Eventually, the plague period passed, and the city was able to start rebuilding itself. Nearly a third of the population of Venice died during the plague. Those that survived would remember that harrowing experience forever. Since the church was made in honour of stopping the plague, most of the art and symbolism you’ll find throughout the church in some way refers to death or the plague. Making it a very uniquely themed church. 

The Dome

The church is most notable for its humongous white dome, which dominates the sky. The dome, which almost seems to defy gravity, became a symbol of inspiration for artists in the city. To support the huge dome and weighty marble church, 1 million wooden piles were used to hold up the floating building.

Zattere

To finish the evening, walk down south towards the island’s far edge. The stone promenade which flanks the large waterway is called the Zattere. Zattere in Italian means rafts. In the 16th century, timber would arrive in the city on large rafts. Timber was not only used to construct the walls of grand palazzos and houses in Venice; it was literally the ground on which the houses were built. Timber was one of the most important imports in the city. It was also used to make gondolas up until the 18th century. Suffice it to say, the city was built around the timber industry, so its importance is not to be ignored. The earliest parts of the Zattere date as far back as 1520. Today the wide promenade is a great place to watch the sunset, reflection down against the mirror like waters of the canals.

Trattoria San Basilio

If you’re feeling like you would like to dine somewhere close to your accommodation, there are Vaporetto stops all along the Fondamenta Zattere. But if you’re looking for something special along the water’s edge but away from the touristy hub, you should check out Trattoria San Basilio.

This down-to-earth restaurant is located inside the corner of one of the older buildings in the Zattere. It barely looks like a restaurant except for the awning and a few tables and chairs out front. But don’t let its modesty fool you; here, you’ll find a relaxing atmosphere, friendly staff, and traditional Venetian cuisine. Their seafood spaghetti with mussels, clams and squid tastes so fresh you’d swear the food jumped right onto your plate straight from the water. Try to get a spot outside to enjoy the sunset or watch as gondolas paddle past into the moonlight.

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Phew, well, that brings us to the end of this tour. Hopefully, if you packed this all into one day, you found things along the way to return to see tomorrow! Let me know which neighbourhood was your favourite or what you’re most looking forward to visiting!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

Buy the Downloadable PDF for this Walking Tour

With our downloadable PDF guide, you can take the tour at your own pace, without worrying about schedules or large tour groups. Plus, you can download the PDF to your phone or tablet to use even while offline.

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Happy Travels Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Self-Guided Venice Walking Tour [UPDATED 2024] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

#1 Don’t Rush!

Italy isn’t a country you want to rush through. Not only will the infrastructure of Italy itself render this impossible, but it just doesn’t do the landscape and culture any justice either. Italy is a place for exploring, for getting lost and discovering something you never knew was there. Lists and guides are essential to make sure you don’t get TOO off track but make sure you don’t overbook yourself. I’m one of the LEAST flexible people in the world. I LOVE making schedules and itineraries and get flustered when things don’t go to plan.

Be Open to Change

But sometimes, being forced into a situation where just those things happen, forces you to change. To become adaptable. To open yourself up to new possibility and just let things flow. Italy changed me as a person. It forced me to slow down, to savour in a mid-afternoon glass of wine under an ancient clock tower. I didn’t ask for the bill or try to rush to my next destination. I just sipped my drink under the literal Tuscan sun and reflected on how lucky I was to be experiencing that moment in time. Rushing meals is a mainly North American thing. We are used to fasting food, even at a slow restaurant.

But in Europe, especially in Italy, everything is relaxed, laid back and at a snail’s pace. Find a way of adapting to this new kind of living. I found I loved to bring my books with me and spent these hours of dining reading. It’s a great time to plan your next adventure or just catch up with old friends or family.

#2 Don’t Drive Inside Big Cities

Driving in Italy is one of the best ways to explore the countryside. Emphasis on the countryside! Driving inside the BIG cities is a nightmare. I witnessed one of the biggest fights between my parents while driving in Florence and that imprinted itself on my brain as “note to self: never drive in the cities in Italy!” Renting a car in Italy is actually one of the cheapest modes of transportation but don’t let that sucker you into using it for the entirety of your trip! You need specific permits for your car to bring it into some major cities. If you haven’t got the right one to expect a HUGE fine when you return your vehicle at the end of the trip. An expensive bill is something no one wants to get after a dream vacation.

In addition to these significant fines, there are also dozens of weird rules of the road in these large cities. You’ll also find heavy traffic, problems with parking and more incidents that you really don’t need to stress about on your vacation. Trains between big cities in Italy are easy to use and a great way to watch the landscape fly by. While they might not always run on time (there is that laid back Italian attitude once more) they get you from point A to point B lickety-split, without any hidden fees. Once you’re finished in the big cities, head just outside town to pick up your rental car for a drive to see the smaller villages across Tuscany. 

Driving TIP

If you are travelling on trains in Italy a word to the wise: be sure to always validate your train tickets. When you buy your tickets on regional trains, there won’t be a time or date on it. This is because you need to validate it before you board the train to mark it as used. Look for a yellow machine on the platform or near the entrance to the station. If you can’t find one, ask any employee to point you in the right direction. If you find yourself onboard without validation and run into a transportation officer expect to pay a BIG fine! They don’t fall for the whole “I’m a tourist I didn’t know any better,” line. They make big money off these fines so won’t hesitate to give you one.

#3 Don’t Assume Food is that Expensive!

Dining out in Italy is cheaper than you’d imagine. When I was a backpacker in my early 20s, I had been anxious about eating out in Italy. It is known as one of the best culinary cities in the world, and I had imagined that all restaurants would cost a fortune. I thought for sure I’d have to resort to buying supermarket food and cooking it back at the hotel. I was SHOCKED to find that by making smart choices, I was able to eat pretty much anything I wanted. And more than that, the prices were way lower than I thought they would be! If you only look at restaurants with English menus, you’ll come away with a totally wrong idea of food prices in Italy.

Avoid English Menus

These restaurants are geared towards tourists who might be swayed by an easy experience to pay more for a less authentic experience. Keep an eye out for menus only in Italian only and always be sure to wander the streets at least five minutes away from the busy areas. Here you’ll find some absolute gems! Also be sure to avoid any restaurant with a greeter outside, yelling in English about their menus. That’s a sure sign it’s not the real deal. In Italy, as long as you stick to those points, you don’t need to worry about checking YELP or TripAdvisor.

I always ended up at places I never had written down, and the food was ALWAYS spectacular. If you can speak even a few words of Italian, try to ask for the daily special or chef’s recommendation. If you don’t have any allergies, give it a try! You never know when you’re next favourite meal will appear out of nowhere. I was shocked to find how much I loved squid ink pasta, a traditional meal in Venice which I had never seen anywhere else in the world.

#4 Don’t Expect to Eat on Your Schedule

Italians eat late. Or at least it seemed pretty late to me when usually eats her dinner around 6 pm. The earliest any self-respecting Italian would have their dinner would be around 8 pm. While many restaurants catering to tourists are open earlier, this is a dead giveaway that the food isn’t authentic. I found waiting for dinner was one of the hardest things to get used to.

Eat and Drink Late

That was until I found out about Aperitivo (more on that later). To get used to this later schedule, I found the best thing that worked for me was to take a nap in the middle of the day. This is the same thing many Italians do. It’s very typical to see restaurants open in the morning and night but closed in the afternoon. Despite being a Spanish name, many (or most) native Italians will go home for a siesta in the middle of the day.

This is just one part of the Italian dedication to a better quality of life. Shop owners will close down in the afternoon to go and make a home-cooked meal in their apartment. They sacrifice any sales they would have made during that time for the chance to eat their own food, maybe see their family or even have a nap. So I did the same. I would head home around 3 or 4 pm after a busy day and take a nice long relaxing nap. It recharged me for the rest of the night and resting always makes me feel less hungry than if I was walking around killing time before dinner.

#5 Don’t Expect Half-Priced Drinks during ‘Aperitivo‘ 

Many North American are used to this thing called “happy hour” between the hours of 7 and 9 pm. This time is usually reserved for half-priced, watered-down drinks. In Italy, they have something similar, but all kinds of different! It’s called ‘Aperitivo‘ (which literally translates to appetizer). Aperitivo is heavily advertised outside bars in the city, and also happens during the hours of 7 and 9 pm. But you won’t find any half-priced drinks here, and if you do see somewhere offering half priced wine, you know its not the an authentic aperitivo.

Free Food NOT Drink

Aperitivo is meant as a time for people to relax after work but before dinner. Locals jovially catch up with friends and family over a few glasses of wine while they wind up their metabolism for dinner (maybe this is why Italians eat so much pasta but remain so thin). But what aperitivo does offer instead of half-priced drinks, is FREE food! These “bonus” snacks are a way to stave off starving before your 9 pm dinner.

Different bars offer up different kinds of snacks. Some offer simple things like nuts, bread and fruit but others have full-on buffets of appetizers all free of charge if you’re drinking. Most big cities charge about 8 and 10 euros for a great glass of wine (reduce this slightly if staying in a smaller, less touristy village). But more than just a glass of wine, you’ll get a real experience out of it! Aperitivo brings out the best in people and a chance for you to meet the locals and ingrain yourself in Italian culture.

#6 Don’t Underestimate Coffee Culture

Coffee culture in Italy is almost a religion. There are many rules and rituals you’re expected to know and follow. One of the biggest don’ts to know, which will help you out financially is, don’t sit to drink your espresso. Often a coffee will have an added “table charge” if you drink it sitting down. This is rarely, if ever listed, so you’ll either have to ask or take your chances. Especially if you’re having a drink near a trendy tourist site, these charges can be as much as 20 euros! My husband was backpacking in his 20s and grabbed a coffee in front of the pantheon with his friend. They unwittingly sat down and had FOUR coffees, which ended up costing them 60 EUROS! A mistake we still laugh about to this day but I’m sure at the time it was anything but funny.

Even at cheaper cafes, drinking the espresso at the counter will always be more affordable and also how real Italians do it. If you have an espresso, don’t miss out on the crema. While you are not supposed to put any milk or cream in espresso, lots of cafes will have crema on the bar. Creama is whipped milk mixed with sugar that you can spoon into your espresso for a deliciously creamy and sweet drink.

Tips on What to Order and When

Another tip for ordering coffee is not to order a cappuccino after 11 am. Cappuccinos are thought to be meant only for breakfast. If you order one after dinner, you’ll either be politely corrected or just simply brought a latte macchiato instead. Speaking of lattes, don’t go up to a coffee counter and order only a “latte“. Latte in Italian means milk, so you might be served up a cup of warm milk. If you’re interested in a North American latte, as for a latte macchiato or caffe macchiato. When ordering an espresso, you can also ask for a caffe (which is what they call an espresso in Italian). If you’re not a fan of strong espresso order a caffe lungo which adds more water for a less intense taste.

#7 Don’t Ask for Free Tap Water

Trying to save a few dollars when travelling is obviously something most people will want to do. And to do this often, you’ll order some tap water to have during your meal. In Italy, this is called “acqua di robinetto“. But if you try ordering it at most restaurants, you might be met with a dirty look. You might also be flat out refused or, on the odd occasion, begrudgingly have it brought out to you. For the most part, I found it wasn’t worth the trouble of asking for it in the end. There are many reasons people don’t think tap water is standard in Italy. One is that although potable, restaurants can’t guarantee the contents of the water they served, which is against health regulations. Others say that it’s because they don’t make a profit from the water.

Another theory is that it merely isn’t a cultural thing for Italians. Whatever the reason, I keep to the saying, “when in Rome” and order the same thing to locals are ordering. Honestly, sometimes it’s cheaper to order a glass of the house wine than a bottle of sparkling water, so take this as an opportunity to live it up and sample some fantastic Italian wines. If you don’t drink alcohol, Italy has a variety of freshly made sodas which I found at most restaurants. Freshly squeezed lemons and oranges with soda water are fantastically refreshing on a hot day.

#8 Don’t Patiently Wait In Line

Even though Italians are so laid back about table service in restaurants, they are outright frantic when it comes to ordering things to go from anything with a counter. I am a pretty shy and orderly person, so when I was in Italy and went to order a coffee, I patiently waited in line. Without hesitation, I found a woman suddenly push her way in front of me to order, and without pause, the barista served her immediately. I thought for sure, him having seen me, he would have asked her to go to the back of the line. But he did not.

After this happened multiple times, I realized that line jumping was just a part of their culture, like yelling or talking with their hands. If an Italian sees a gap in the line, they’ll jump right in. So either be sure to leave no space between yourself and the person in front or find the courage to start line jumping! Or at least being a little pushier and showy when it comes to ordering at counters. Some places have started using a number machine to control this queuing problem, but if you’re stuck somewhere without it, you’ll need to figure out the game. Remember, they’re not trying to be rude, it’s just all apart of that fiery Italian attitude.

#9 Don’t Go in the Summer

Ok, now I know this point will get everyone going! Italy is a fantastically popular place to travel. As it should be, it’s gorgeous! You can’t blame people for wanting to visit it. But summer is especially busy. For many families, the summer is the only time they can travel with their kids, so the cities become overrun with Europeans and international travellers. The weather has been getting increasingly hotter and hotter (thanks global warming) and what once was a relaxing summer vacation on paper, turns into a humid, sticky and sweaty affair. Combine that with the huge crowds, long wait time to get into attractions and you’re in for a horrid equation.

Summer = High Prices, Lots of Tourists

Prices for hotels are also the most expensive during this time as well, and even some popular train route are often booked up well in advance. Summer also has its pests, in this case, mosquitoes, which can have a field day on bare legs. For me personally, Italy is one of those landscapes that look stunning any time of the year. The visual difference between Venice in the Summer and Venice in the Winter is almost non-existent (they rarely get snow).

And if you’re lucky enough to see a snow-covered Italy what a unique and special moment that would be! What is the most different during those months outside of the summertime are the crowds and the costs. In both cases you’ll see a big reduction. The colours along the vineyards in the fall are spectacular, and the springtime blooms along the roadways make driving a joy. So if you can avoid it, skip the summer! If you can’t, just be sure to plan far in advance and make smart choices.

#10 Don’t take Heavy luggage

Italy is known for its gorgeous cobblestone streets and old, historic residences. But what those two things have in common is that they were designed for a different time. A time when luggage was made for being carried in your hands, not huge suitcases being rolled down the street on wheels. Too many of us have a tendency to overpack. And you’re never all too aware of this fact until you’re facing a 20 minutes walk down an extremely bumpy road, followed by a six-storey walk up. With airlines charging more and more for checked luggage, this is your opportunity to save, and scale down all at once. I have a great post about how to pack for 2-weeks in a carry-on which will save you a ton of hassle, exhaustion, stress and, best of all, money!

#11 Don’t wait to Book Tickets to Popular Attractions

Even if you’re not travelling in the super-duper popular months, buying tickets online in advance to busy attractions is highly advisable. If there are a few items on your list which are unmissable, you don’t want to find yourself unable to get in because they’re sold out or the line is too long. Buying tickets in advance also means that that portion of the sightseeing costs is already paid for before you arrive in the city. For those on a tight budget, it means you might have a little bit more to spend once you’re there.

#12 Don’t ONLY Stay Inside the City Walls

So many people, when travelling to a new city, might want to stay right in the centre of town! And while this sounds good in practice, close to sights and all that, in reality it’s a bit more complicated. If you’re someone like me who enjoys a quiet evening, these hotels or apartments in the centre of busy cities are often pretty loud. Not only that, they are expensive! Since transport, even in smaller cities is so prevalent in Italy, it’s easy to stay either just on the outskirts of town or in a nearby village just a few minutes away. If you’re travelling by car, this also means you can park the car at one of these hotels easily and won’t need to worry about bringing it into town.

Look in Bnbs

Often hotels outside the city are a fraction of the cost of the ones in town and come with so much more character and charm. We stayed in plenty or airbnbs, farm stays or just tiny bed and breakfasts on the outskirts of town on our travels through Italy. Every single one was owned by the most interesting characters! Airbnb makes it easy to search for accommodations using their map function so you can find the town you want to visit and then zoom out slightly to explore the options just a few minutes outside the centre.

We even stayed in one place where the owner would drive us into the city in the morning and pick us up in the evening. Like a personal chauffeur or bus service! PLUS staying in these little towns also means you can visit their local restaurants which are often so excited to have visitors. They serve up some of the best authentic food at the lowest prices!

#13 Don’t Forget to Bring cash

Despite the rise of credit cards, tap and, apple pay, it seems like cash money has become something of an ephemeral thing. Even I rarely have cash on me at home, heck sometimes I don’t even walk around carrying my wallet. But especially when travelling I always make sure to bring cash with me. For anyone visiting a marketplace, flea market or even smaller restaurant, you’ll find cash is either the only accepted form of currency or at least the much more preferred option. Especially in small towns which might be a little bit more behind the times, cash is essential. And if you’re interested in doing any haggling at the antique market, you’ll need cash for sure!

#14 Don’t Skip pastries for breakfast

Breakfast in Italy is a sweet affair. If you come to Italy, don’t try to find a restaurant that does a full English or an omelette with hash browns. Along with the mandatory caffe (espresso), you need to pick up your favourite sweet pastry to enjoy alongside. There is the iconic biscotti, brioche or cannoli but my favourite is the cornetti (cornetto if singular). A cornetto is the Italian’s version of a french croissant. It is slightly sweeter (right up my alley!) and eaten dipped into your coffee as you indulge. Pastry shops often have a fantastic coffee counter as well so you can easily get your morning brew and meal all in one place.

Italy is honestly one of the most incredible places in the entire world, and although that’s not really the most original opinion, it’s cliche for a reason. Hopefully, these tips help you out on your next trip over to the city of astounding food, unbelievable architecture and extraordinary people. Let me know if the comment any others tips you might have for first-time travellers to help them out on their future ventures.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post 14 Travel Mistakes NOT to Make on Your First Trip to Italy first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Don't Ride the Gondolas
2. Don't Limit Yourself to Just the Island of Venice
3. Don't Expect (free) Public Washrooms
4. Don't Bring Heavy Luggage
5. Don't Stress About Getting Lost
6. Don't Visit on the Weekends or in Summer
7. Don't Eat in St. Mark's Square
8. Don't Dine using a 'Tourist Menu'
9. Don't Take a "Free Glass Factory Tour" in Murano
10. Don't Miss the BIG Attractions By Forgetting to Plan in Advance

Don’t Ride the Gondolas

Gondolas are one of the most iconic images of Venice, and watching the black and white striped Gondoliers cruise up and down the canals inside their red velvet-lined boats is not to be missed. What you can miss is riding inside of them. While the dream of riding inside a gondola might seem the ultimate Venetian bucket list experience, the reality is much less dreamy. Gondolas cost at least €80 ($90 USD) for 30 minutes, and the price only goes up after 7 pm. Sure, you can cram up to five or six people inside the gondolas to try to split it with another two couples on the search for romance in Venice, but trust me, the awkward 30 minutes jammed inside a small gondola with strangers isn’t as romantic as you think.

And it costs even more if you want a gondolier who will do all that beautiful singing you’ve heard so much about. Ultimately, those euros could be spent much better on a romantic dinner along a quaint canal. If you place yourself anywhere near these secluded canals, you still get to enjoy all that beautiful singing for yourself without paying a dime.

Instead: Jump on one of the local vaporettos

If you’re dead-set on stepping into a gondola to check it off your bucket list, try a ‘traghetto‘ instead. A ‘Traghetto‘ is Italian for ‘ferry,‘ and these small, black gondolas ferry passengers across the Grand Canal at seven different points. Just from one side to the other. These were used for generations before the construction of the Grand Canal bridges. They cost only €2 and are still used by locals who don’t want to waste their time walking all the way to a bridge to get across. Although the ride might be short, it’s a great way to experience riding inside a gondola without the enormous price tag. The boats are almost exactly the same as the private gondolas, just maybe missing the frills.

Don’t Limit Yourself to Just the Island of Venice

Many people arrive by cruise ship onto the island of Venice and never leave its shores. More people pour in from the train station and don’t think of heading outside the Grand Canal once they arrive. While there are many beautiful things to do in Venice, it’s a great shame to make it down here and not visit at least one other of the surrounding islands.

Instead: Explore the islands of Burano and Murano

Burano and Murano are accessible by a 45-minute ride across the water on one of the public vaporetto boats. Visiting the island is a treat, and the journey out there is a great way to experience the beautiful ocean and surrounding scenery. The islands are crucial to Venice’s art, food, history and culture. Each has its distinctive flair and feeling, vastly different from the glamour and grandiosity of central Venice. You trip won’t be the same without making it out to experience these amazing spots.

Don’t Expect (free) Public Washrooms

Public washrooms aren’t a thing in Venice. The city, now one of Europe’s most popular tourist spots, wasn’t built to be one. And as such, there is a significant shortage of public washrooms. The only truly “public” washrooms aren’t free of charge. Sometimes, they can cost up to €2. And while you can usually spare this the odd time, these costs can add up.

Instead: Find a local coffee or gelato shop

Head into a local coffee or gelato shop and spend that €2 on getting a delicious espresso or refreshing gelato. After making your purchase, ask to use their restroom, and they’ll be more than accommodating since you’ve already purchased something. Visiting these local restaurants is a much better use of your money than just flushing it down the toilet.

Don’t Bring Heavy Luggage

Many travellers will repeatedly be told not to bring roller bags or heavy luggage to small European towns. But this advice is never more valid than in Venice. Packing those heavy, rolling suitcases will be a nightmare here. There are no cars which you can throw your bags into to make their way to your hotel quickly. Walking down cobblestone streets with a rolling suitcase makes enormous noise. Which the locals are not a fan of. Even if you can get a private water taxi, unless your hotel is right on the Grand Canal, you’ll still have to walk a fair way from the nearest boat dock to your accommodation. And these private water taxis cost €13 upfront, plus another €1.80 for each minute of travel. Less reputable boat drivers will often charge you per piece of luggage. 

Instead: Travel Light or Store Your Luggage

Now I’m not a light packer by any means, but I know when it needs to be done! And choosing to pack light made all the difference in the world when visiting Venice. But there is another solution for those who are excited to bring back boatloads of souvenirs but don’t want to be limited to a small backpack. You can always store your large suitcase in the luggage lockers at the Venice train station when you arrive. And transfer the essentials into a small carrying bag and you’ll be on your way! This will allow you to shop to your heart’s desire but will give you the freedom of getting to and from your destinations without any stress or struggle.

Don’t Stress About Getting Lost

Following maps on paper or via google maps is very difficult in a city like Venice. Sometimes the pathways are quite literally underwater. During the wet season in Venice, vast portions of the city get flooded, and raised paths are used to get around safely. But not everywhere has these raised walkways, so often streets will simply shut down, and you must take complicated detours. Venice’s streets will notoriously change their name halfway along, sending tourists into a tizzy. But don’t stress. Venice is a small island. Walking from one end to the other only takes about an hour, so you’re never that far away from where you want to end up.

Instead: Embrace the Wander

Keep in mind if you’re headed in the right general direction, you’ll eventually make it there. Learn to love exploring and find little treasures along hidden passageways. These are the fantastic discoveries about Venice which make it so unique. I would even challenge you to spend an entire day without your phone guiding you. Use that simple paper map you get at tourist information and see how far that gets you. When you get “lost,” just ask a local for directions. While you’re at it, ask them for a dinner or food recommendation and see if you can start a conversation. Locals might bristle at tourists initially (they are, after all, overrun with them) but they LOVE their city. And are incredibly giving and kind when they see someone genuinely trying to engage.

Don’t Visit on the Weekends or in Summer

If you have the option of when you can visit Venice, try not to visit on the weekends. This is not only because there will be a massive influx of tourists but because many of the main tourist sights (like churches and cathedrals) are closed for local services. Hotels will also be much more expensive during the weekends as even Italians travel on these days a weekend mini-breaks.

If you want to enhance your experience, avoid travelling during the summer. Summers in Venice are incredibly muggy as it’s so close to the seaside. The crowds make the temperatures seem ten times hotter than it is really is. Cruise ships are in and out of the ports, and the weight of these daytrippers can be felt not only on the ground but in the local’s attitudes.

One of the comments I always hear about Venice is that it smells. And yes, those old swampy canals can smell in the summer heat. But that’s just like any other large city in the summer. New York’s piled-up garbage is no picnic in 40-degree weather, either. Don’t blame the city, blame the sun.

Instead: Visit Venice in its offseason

Pack warmly and visit Venice in the winter. You’ll be shocked to see how different the city is compared to the stories of those who came in the summer. Winter in Venice is a strangely magical place. The city’s locals seem to come alive, despite the colder weather. The silent side canals and ancient architecture shuddering in the brisk wind are hauntingly beautiful and well worth checking out. The spring and fall are equally stunning, but you’re better off coming in the fall when you can avoid flooding that plagues the springtime.

Don’t Eat in St. Mark’s Square

Restaurants in any big city, especially near those HUGE tourist attractions, are rife with scams. And many overcharge customers to a staggering degree. Those beautiful cafes in St. Mark’s square, which make for lovely photographs, should be avoided at all costs. Mainly due to those costs. These cafes are overpriced and tack on a “sitting” surcharge simply because of the location.

Anytime you enter a cafe, ask if there is a “cover charge.” If you ask, they must fess up to this, so never be embarrassed. If the cover charge isn’t too bad and you feel like the overpriced drinks are worth the view, then absolutely go right ahead. But to save yourself a surprisingly large bill, always check before sitting down.

Instead: Head down any small side street adjacent to St. Mark’s

It’s always incredible to me the fantastic places you can find just steps away from the crowded tourist traps. Look for locals migrating, and you’re heading in the right direction.

If you’re insistent on eating at one of those picturesque restaurants, ask for their “al banco” or bar menu. This menu is often a completely different price point compared to their “al tavolo” or table menu. The only caveat is you’ll have to sit or stand at the bar. But sometimes I find this the best seat in the house as you get to watch the cooks or bar tenders at work and decipher the most popular dishes you yourself might want to try.

Don’t Dine using a ‘Tourist Menu’

Venice was perhaps the city in Europe where I saw the most prominent use of “tourist menus.” It is no secret that Venice isn’t the place to come for the best Italian cuisine, but there are incredible meals. If you know where to look. But Tourist menus are truly the worst ways to experience Venetian cuisine. They are built up of easy-to-please, faux-Italian meals. It’s watered-down cooking and mediocre at best. Avoid menus printed in various languages; although this is very inclusive, it often denotes that it’s not a traditional or local restaurant.

Also, be wary of anything that comes for “free.” Venice has been notorious for putting platters of oysters down in front of customers who didn’t order any without saying a thing. Assuming it’s perhaps a free entree, tourists gobble them up. Then at the end of the meal, you get an unexpected bill. If anything arrives at your table that you didn’t order, question it immediately. If they bring up some unspecific cost, say, “no, thank you,” and send it back!

Instead: Look for Handwritten Italian menus

The key to finding a good restaurant in Venice is looking for one without a paper menu at all. Just a chalkboard where they write their daily specials, using only the fresh catch of the day. Even if you don’t speak Italian, there are always a few words you can learn to identify what different dishes contain. As you tour around Venice, check out what the locals are eating and be sure to order that. A few local specialties in Venice are deeply rooted in their proximity to the ocean. Try any seafood-based risotto like moleche (small green crabs), which are popular in the springtime. Or creamed dried cod spread across fresh bread. And ‘Bigoli in salsa‘ is an appetizer pasta made using only three ingredients; onion, anchovies and white wine. Simple and delicious!

Don’t Take a “Free Glass Factory Tour” in Murano

Venetian glass is renowned all over the world. But with popularity comes those trying to take advantage of just that. Throughout San Marco, you’ll see hawkers advertising “free trips” to Murano to visit glass factories. Remember: nothing in this world is free. These dodgy companies will take you to some less-than-reputable glass factories in Murano. Once you arrive, the salespeople will put immense pressure on you to purchase some of their glass. Often guilting you into it since they provided you with a 45-minute trip to Murano for “free.”

This is not only really stressful but also prevents you from buying a piece of glasswork you genuinely fall in love with. These places are also known for purchasing much of their glasswork from China, and the artisans you see working in the factory are often just there for show. The best way to be sure what you’re buying is real is to check the price; too good to be true is often just that.

Instead: Take the public ferry to Murano and explore for yourself

The public vaporetto from Venice to Murano costs around €10. Sure, it’s not a “free” trip, but you’ll definitely feel free by being able to explore this gorgeous island on your own. There are dozens and dozens of authentic glass shops in Murano. Each artisan has their own unique style and heritage. Many artists have had the trade passed down from generation to generation.

And not all glass from Murano has to be prohibitively expensive. Sure, there are chandeliers which cost upwards of $100,000, but there are also gorgeous glass earrings which cost less than €10. I bought a few pairs, which are my favourite souvenir of the trip. I even picked the colours and watched the artist make the earrings right before my eyes. A real memory to bring back with me!

Don’t Miss the BIG Attractions By Forgetting to Plan in Advance

Venice is a small but busy city. Tourism is booming in this historical hub, and no matter when you arrive, there will always be tons of people. If there are one or two attractions you have your heart set on, don’t be shy about booking these tickets in advance. St. Mark’s Basilica ticket MUST be booked in advance. And even advance bookings get sold out sooner than you’d think. Some of the more popular museums often face the same issue during peak season.

Instead: Book your tickets online in advance

Despite the city feeling trapped in the past, the Venetian tourism industry is smack dab in the 21st century. And all the big attractions and museums offer advanced ticket purchases online from anywhere in the world. This will not only secure the fact you’ll be able to visit a particular place when in town, but also means you’ll be able to bypass the huge lines. Yes, you can always wake up early in the morning to be the first ones at the gate, but it’s your vacation, and you deserve to sleep in and relax! I’d recommend booking these at least two months in advance just to ensure you aren’t disappointed, especially in the summer.

Venice is a city that demands careful planning and thoughtful exploration. By avoiding these 10 common mistakes and embracing the alternative activities suggested, you’ll be well on your way to having an unforgettable experience in this unique and magical city. Remember to take your time, soak in the beauty of your surroundings, and explore beyond the typical tourist hotspots to truly get a sense of what Venice has to offer. By doing so, you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for this incredible destination, and create memories that will last a lifetime. So pack your bags, plan your itinerary, and get ready for an adventure that you’ll never forget!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post Avoid These 10 Common Mistakes In Venice And Discover These Ultimate Activities Instead! first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Table Of Contents

1. Cannaregio
2. Ca’ D’oro
3. Mercato di Rialto
4. Rialto Bridge
5. San Polo
6. Ponte Accademie
7. Grand Canal
8. Little Canals
9. Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
10. San Giorgio Maggiore
11. St. Mark’s Square
12. Cafes in San Marco
13. Basilica San Marco
14. Doge's Palace
15. Bridge of Sighs
16. Riva Degli Schiavone
17. Burano Island
18. Murano Island

Cannaregio

Cannaregio is located far north of the centre of Venice and as such is more hidden away and free of the tourists which flock to San Marco. Here you’ll find some incredible gardens which have been tended to by locals for centuries. They are overgrown and wild and seamlessly blend into the buildings. Almost like a secret garden.

Ca’ D’oro

The Ca’ d’Oro or the golden house is so named because of the gilt decorations which once adorned its walls. Although these have long faded, the building is still one of the most incredible examples of Gothic architecture in Venice. The views inside the old manor house offer sumptuous textures and patterns formed in marble. From the outdoor porch facing the waterway you can nab some of the most stunning views of the Grand Canal.

Mercato di Rialto

The Mercato di Rialto, or Venice Marketplace, is where you’ll find heaps of colourful Italian fruit and vegetables, laid out like piles brightly coloured gemstones. Stacked underneath vibrant red awnings, behind smiling Venetian farmers, the smells of the market are almost as strong as the picturesque produce.

Rialto Bridge

The Rialto Bridge is the most famous of the four iconic bridges along the Venetian Grand Canal. There are always lots of tourists on the bridge, but if you visit early in the morning you have the best chance of seeing it without a huge mob. I like to photograph the bridge on the approach from the Grand Canal vaporetto, with dramatic views of gondolas cruising in front.

San Polo

San Polo is the smallest neighbourhood in Venice and one of the oldest parts of the city. As such, you can wander these alleyways and tiny canals to find some of the most ancient and yet fantastically colourful compositions. The layers of brick and stucco, changing surfaces and colours from the various years of construction make for a charming patchwork quilt of textures.

Ponte Accademie

Standing atop the Ponte Accademie, you have an iconic view of the Grand Canal and some of the most gorgeous architectural masterpieces of Venice. The contrasting colours along this portion of the canal are stunning, the blues of the water, against golden painted Gothic facades and red and white striped paline poles where gondolas dock look like something out of a painting.

Grand Canal

The Grand Canal is obviously one of the most photographed parts of Venice. No trip here is completed without a view across these majestic waters. Early morning, as the sun has begun to rise, I think is the time best time since the golden light cast upon the buildings is nothing but fantastic. Hop on one of the Grand Canal’s vaporettos and get a seat up front for the best vantage point as you float down the most scenic waterway in Europe.

Little Canals

The Grand Canal may be what you expect to see when you come to Venice but their baby sisters are those unexpected surprises which makes you fall in love. The air is full of intrigue as gondolas glide across the aquamarine waters between tightly packed quarters. Looking over the railing of whichever bridge you’re standing on it’s almost impossible not to feel like you’ve fallen into a dream. The Little Canals are like the those precious side streets in all European cities which are a haven away from the throngs of tourists and where you’ll find all the locals having a drink in the mid afternoon.

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

The Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute is one of the most incredible buildings in Venice, but turn your back to it for a second and you’ll be surprised what you see. Bobbing up and down in the waters are beautiful black lacquered gondolas set against a backdrop of unbelievable Gothic architecture. It’s a rather simple scene but one which I find immensely charming.

San Giorgio Maggiore

San Giorgio Maggiore is an island situated right across from St. Mark’s Square. Although the island also has some incredible places to visit, there is nothing like sitting on the water edge and looking out at the entirety St. Mark’s Square. From here you have a completely clear panoramic view of this side of the city. It not only makes for an incredible photo but also helps you orientate yourself when you visit the square itself.

St. Mark’s Square

St. Mark’s Square is the heart at which the entirety of Venice was built around. It is where you’ll find many of the most popular tourist destinations, and for good reason. The stunning red brick bell tower in the middle of the square, photographed against a bright blue sky, is always a superbly constructed picture and one which screams, “Venice!”

Cafes in San Marco

There are two iconic cafes in St. Mark’s Square which might cost a pretty penny but are absolutely free to look at. The yellow and red chairs of the respective cafes are like an artistic pattern across the cobblestone exteriors of St. Mark’s Square. The set up looks best in the morning when the chairs aren’t full of tourists on their phones so best to come early in the morning.

Basilica San Marco

St. Mark’s Basilica is the essence of Venice. Bright, colourful and artistic. Although the square in front of the Basilica gets immensely crowded during the day, it’s easy enough to get close up to photograph some of the vibrant mosaics on the exterior which the Basilica is so famous for. At sunrise or sunset, the colours reflecting off the glass mosaics are incredible so if you’re an early bird or night owl you’re in for a treat.

Doge’s Palace

Both the interior and exterior of the Doge’s Palace looks like something out of a Gothic fairy tale. While the outside is stunning, with its rose marble and intricate floral traceries, I love the interior for its peaceful atmosphere. Since getting inside requires admission you’ll find yourself, most days, escaping the hoards of people outside. In here, you can hear your footsteps on the cobblestones and are surrounded by some of the most incredible architecture anywhere in Venice. A picture from in here looks like you’ve stepped inside a castle all to yourself.

Bridge of Sighs

Beside the Basilica, around the corner from the Doge’s Palace, is the Bridge of Sighs. This bridge was once used by prisoners as the gateway between the city courts and their prison cells. For prisoners sentenced to death, this was their last chance to look out at blue waters of Venice. The haunting history of the bridge makes it a powerful picture in itself but the bright white marble set against the blue sky and neon teal waters of the canal is what makes it superb.

Riva Degli Schiavone

The Riva Degli Schiavone is located right in front of St. Mark’s square and is where you can see some of the most gorgeous gondolas moored, awaiting riders to journey along the Grand Canal. The exquisite green street lamps of Venice with their pink Murano glass frame the skyline perfectly as you look out at San Giorgio Maggiore .

Burano Island

Stepping outside of the main island is so important when visiting Venice. Burano is one of the most popular side islands due to it’s multi-coloured fisherman’s village. These houses are home to both some of the cities best fishermen as well as the famous lace makers which produce some of Italy’s finest lace. The houses along the canals are each painted a different colour, and bright colours at that. They make for some of the most exciting and dynamic pictures and are well worth the 45-minute boat ride out to the island.

Murano Island

Murano, a sister island to Burano, is much less popular but no less incredible. The island is most notable for its glass blowing craftspeople but what I love it for are their dramatically colourful alleyways and residences. Hidden away from the main canal, you’ll find these secret passageways leading you throughout the rural homes of real Venetians. Covered in rich textiles and vibrant shudders they make for incredible photographs.

In truth, there is no street or canal in Venice which doesn’t make for the most incredible photograph but if you want to set a challenge for yourself and find the most beautiful locations the city has to offer I hope you found this list helpful! Let me know what’s your favourite location in Venice to take photographs if you have any other hidden gems which you think people absolutely must see!

The post The Most Stunning Instagrammable Locations in Venice you Must See! first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

How to Cruise along the Grand Canal?

Most of the houses which now line the Canal are named after the original families who first settled here and grew this great city. Taking a trip down the Canal is like taking a trip back in time. And while it is an essential thing to do while in Venice, it doesn’t mean spending a pretty penny, renting out a gondolier for an hour or taking a cheesy river cruise.

Since Venice is a city built on the water, there are no roads and the only way to get around is via water buses called the Vaporettos. A 1-day pass for the Vaporetto will cost you 25€, or a single 75-minute ticket is 9.5€. For the purposes of this tour, a single ticket would do you just fine if you plan on walking your way around the rest of Venice for the day. While they might not look as elegant as the gondolas, they take the very same route and pass by all the same iconic landmarks for a fraction of the cost. 

Table Of Contents

1. How to Cruise along the Grand Canal?
2. Ferrovia Vaporetto
3. Scalzi Bridge
4. San Geremia
5. Fondaco dei Turchi
6. San Stae
7. Ca' Pesaro
8. Traghetto
9. Ca D'oro
10. Palazzo Morosini Brandolin
11. Mercato di Rialto
12. Rialto Bridge
13. Palazzo Corner della Ca' Grande
14. Palazzo Barbarigo Venice
15. Ca' Foscari
16. Grassi Palace
17. Ca' Rezzonico
18. Palazzo Loredan dell'Ambasciatore
19. Ponte dell'Accademia
20. Palazzo Cavalli-Franchetti
21. Peggy Guggenheim
22. Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
23. Santa Maria Maggiore

Ferrovia Vaporetto

Set out as early as you can manage. Venice is a busy, busy city and the earlier you start your day the more you’ll have the city to yourself. We’re staring our tour at the Northern most point of Venice, at the Ferrovia Scalzi Terminal, and traveling east along the Grand Canal.

Get a seat near the edge of the boat to get the full view of the wonderful scenery. Watching the buildings pass by as you cruise along the river is like being transported into another world of fantastical architecture and ancient designs. I’ve included a googlemap of all the landmarks at the bottom of this post so you can follow along as you go. Come with me now on a tour down the Grand Canal.

Scalzi Bridge

The Scalzi Bridge is the first of three bridges you’ll pass under on your tour of the Grand Canal. While there are dozens of bridges to be found throughout Venice, there are only three which cross the extremely wide Grand Canal. The Scalzi Bridge is thin and is one of the more modern designs along the river. The original bridge built here was called the “Austrian” bridge and was built of iron. The stone replacement is much higher and allows for larger boats to pass underneath.

San Geremia

As you continue along the canal you’ll pass the back end exterior of San Geremia Church. Its stunning white dome with slim silver cross atop is one of the landmarks of this little area of Venice. This church was built in 1753 and houses the remains of Saint Lucy. The layers of architectural styles and colours on this church make it look like a layered wedding cake.

So many houses and palaces along the canal don’t have special names or histories but each one has a definitive character. Venice has always been an influential place for artists. As such the use of colour throughout the city is always extremely present. It’s hard to find a single dull building in the entire place. Residents decorate their faces with brightly painted wooden shudders, fantastical balcony flower boxes and stunning wrought iron designs.

Fondaco dei Turchi

Below is the Fondaco dei Turchi, once the seat of Venice’s Turkish population. Originally built in the first half of the 13th century, it is a perfect example of Byzantine design. rich use of colour and intricate stone work was of the utmost importance in Byzantine design. In the 17th century the vast majority of the Turkish population turned this building into a one-house-ghetto that housed hundreds of people as well as served as a warehouse and market for Turkish traders. Today it is the home of the Natural History Museum of Venice, which features a beautiful collections of flora and fauna, fossils, and a small aquarium. A feature which many of these Venetian houses have is the open porticos along the river’s edge which allow boats to pull right up to the interior of the house. Like a Renaissance version of a garage.

San Stae

Continuing along the Northern portion of the canal we pass San Stae. San Stae was built in 11th century and was once a rather subdued and unassuming building. But in the 17th century it was renovated by the Swiss master Domenico Rossi. Its powerful and striking baroque statues which cover the facade are unique due to their active forms which jump and leap out of their marble prison and give great life to this unassuming and otherwise small church.

Ca’ Pesaro

Right next to San Stae is the Ca’ Pesaro. The Ca’ Pesaro was once the residence of Leonardo Pesaro, to whom the building is still named after. Ca’, you’ll hear this word frequently throughout Venice. Ca’ is short for ‘casa’, the word for house in Italian. This building is uniquely designed with repetitive and heavy use of pillars that adorned the entire building. Building started in 1659. The architect was inspired by the chiaroscuro style of painting being employed during the Renaissance. Chiaroscuro is the use of strong contrasts between light and dark.

Here the architect used that same dramatic effect with his arches and columns. Creating an unmissable effect to any passers-by. The Pesaro family has turned its residence into a wonderful museum dedicated to 19th and 20th century paintings and sculptures which you can view today. It is only of the most impressive collections in Venice and highly recommended if you’re here for a few days.

Traghetto

While floating along the river you’ll pass by various less opulent, black gondolas being operated by men in simple black and white striped shirts. These are called ‘Traghettos‘. Inside these gondolas are business men, local, residents and even some tourists. These are not the tourist gondolas which go for hundreds of euros an hour, these gondolas cost only €2 and will take you across the large stretches of the Grand Canal which don’t have a bridge large enough to cross over. Otherwise you’re stuck walking around which can take a significant amount of time. So if you’re in a rush or just too tired to go the long way around, these little gondolas are the ticket! Plus, if you’re looking to experience riding in a gondolas without paying a ton of money, this is how you can check that box off your bucket list.

Ca D’oro

The Ca D’oro is one of the most fantastical buildings on the canal. The pale, multicoloured marbles along the facade makes it looks like a softer water colour paiting floating on the river. Ca’ d’Oro means ‘House of Gold’ as the facade was once covered in a thin coating of gold leaf. The palace was originally built in 1428 for the Contarini family, who were basically the royal family of Venice in the 14th century. This palace features some of the best Gothic architecture in Venice.

In Venice, gothic architecture wasn’t as dark and severe as it might have been in England or even on the mainland. In Venice, Gothic architecutre was more floral and leaned towards the Baroque. Today the palace houses the Galleria Giorgio Franchetti. The Gallery is a collection of art from the Baron Giorgio Franchetti. He donated all the works he had accumulated over the year to this public gallery to be enjoyed by the public after his passing.

Palazzo Morosini Brandolin

The facades in Venetian architecture are one of the best ways to identify which period the building was made in. Byzantine houses featured thin, horseshoe shaped arches with simple motifs on the capitals. Gothic houses have intricate rib traceries on top of their arches (as can be seen in the Palazzo Morosini Brandolin below) along with quatrefoil designs. Renaissance houses are simpler with bold projecting roof cornices and wide arches. Finally the baroque houses have circular headstones, and cherubs carved into the windows along with a bold use of ornamentation.

Mercato di Rialto

The old Venetian Marketplace still stands today and even still serves as one of the major places where Venetian locals shops for their every day groceries. You can spot the market easily along the River, just look for bright red drapes hanging behind wide white arches. These protect the food from inside from the weather. The building was originally a Gothic construction but the newly renovated design was made in 1907, but still preserves much of the original architecture. If you are close enough, check out the carved capitals on the end of the arches, each one is carved in the shape of a sea or sea creature since the main source of the market’s income both now and when it was first built was the freshly caught seafood from the ocean.

Rialto Bridge

The Rialto bridge is the oldest bridge in Venice. It was built by Antonio da Ponte in 1591. Its repetitive and powerful porticos that line the top of the bridge was a point of contention amidst Venetian architects of the time but now the Rialto Bridge is one of the most iconic images of Venice and it is because of its unique and daring design. If you arrive early in the morning you might see the bridge in all it’s architectural glory but as the day draws one thousands of tourists pour onto the bridge and it is packed to the gills, making some of the details hard to make out. Another great reason to come as early in the morning as you can manage.

Palazzo Corner della Ca’ Grande

Since Venice was such a wealthy city for many many years, hundreds of merchants flooded the city. Many of these merchants were foreigners and in 1228 a building was constructed to house all the “German” merchants. Despite the name, the merchant house included Poles, Czechs, and Hungarians all who traded goods inside the walls of Venice. This building was like the New York Stock exchange of its time. The sound of angry, loud and boisterous traders often flooding into the Grand Canal.

Palazzo Barbarigo Venice

My favourite building on the Grand Canal is the Palazzo Barbarigo. It was originally built in the 16th century and features an intricate mosaic applied to the facade. Each of the pieces of glass used in the mosaics were from nearby Murano, famous for its glass craftsmen. Photos cannot do justice to the way the light hits the colourful patterns and reflect off the water. The mosiacs were applied in 1886 when Barbarigo, who owned one of the glass factories in Murano, bought the property. He used the exterior of his house like a form of publicity for his incredible glassworks. In the famed St. Mark’s square you can visit the grand Basilica whos entire interior features more incredible glass mosaics. Barbarigo was so inspired by St. Mark’s Cathedral and took this inspiration into his own home.

While travelling down the canal be sure to study the boat docks which many of the large palazzos have in front. Each one has their own colour scheme, making the entire canal a river of wooden rainbow bulrushes.

The closer you get to St. Mark’s square the more and more traditional gondolas you’ll see travelling down the river with tourists inside. These large black gondolas are incredibly detailed with sumptuous red velvet interiors.

Ca’ Foscari

One of the things that makes the Ca’ Foscari so unique is that it has four floors, an architectural innovation for houses which are built on top of the water. It is designed in the Late Gothic style with a myriad of ornate windows. The tan brickwork in contrast with the white marble creates a beautiful juxtaposition against the blue sky.

Grassi Palace

The Grassi Palace is a beautiful example of the modern and neoclassical coming together is become the future of Venetian architecture. In Venice, keeping the historical artistry of the canal is so important but if there is no progress and modernization the buildings will eventually sink beneath the waves. When the Fiat Motor Company bought the palace they did extensive restorations and renovations to bring the palace back to its once great glory while also ensuring it would last for another century or more.

Ca’ Rezzonico

The enormous Ca’ Rezzonico was built by two of Venice’s greatest architecture in 1660. Baldassare Longhena and Giorgio Massari created the landscape of the Grand Canal and influenced architects both in Italy and all over the world. My favourite part of the building are the wide, oval windows on the top floor which resemble portholes on a massive ship. The building currently houses a fantastical museum where you can tour over 40 different rooms which replicate life in Venice in the Rococo period. Lush furnishings and elaborately designed fabrics make you feel like a queen, even for a day. There is even a reconstructed pharmacy which you can explore.

Palazzo Loredan dell’Ambasciatore

The Palazzo Loredan is a gorgeous example of Gothic architecture. The facade is decorated with ogee arches and quatrefoil windows. The Palazzo was built in the 15th century and was the birthplace of two of the Doges of Venice. A doge is much like a European Duke oversaw much of the functions of Venetian society. The Palazzo Loredan became a hot spot for Venetian aristocrats and Mozart even entertained here.

Ponte dell’Accademia

The Ponte dell’Accademia is the gateway into what I believe is the most scenic part of the canal. The first bridge which crossed this span of the waters was built as early as 1488 but the current wooden bridge design was built in 1933. While most bridges around this time were being built in the more resilient material of stone, designer Eugenio Miozzi insisted on using wood to preserve the more natural look which wood exumes.

Palazzo Cavalli-Franchetti

As you pass under the great Ponte dell’Accademia, you see one of the most iconic views of Venice. On the left side of the Canal is the Palazzo Cavalli-Franchetti. The building is painting sunflower yellow and it absolutely glimmers against the blue sky and teal waters. The palace was built in 1565 and is one of the most incredible examples of Venetian Gothic architecture. Today the building houses various exhibitions and congresses.

Peggy Guggenheim

Coming around the bend you approach the bright accented Peggy Guggenheim Museum. Although this building now contains Venice’s seminal modern art museum, it was once the home of famed art collector Peggy Guggenheim. Peggy adored Venice and curated the art in her home not to please the rich and uppity art crowd, but to please herself and her family. The collection feels so personal while also containing some incredible pieces from famed artists of the 20th century.

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

As we approach the great St. Mark’s Square we pass the bright white shining gem of the end of the Canal, Santa Maria della Salute. The grand double domed and octagonal design makes it stand out from the other churches along the canal. The church was built in memory of all those who died during the great plague of 1630.

The church was designed in the baroque style by Baldassare Longhena. Since the church was built in response to the plague, much of the art references Death. The contrast between the darker subject matter and the bright white stone and marmorino brick is a stunning juxtaposition. The facade is decorated with marble statues of the Virgin Mary along with figures of Saint George, Saint Theodore, the Evangelists, the Prophets, Judith with the head of Holofernes.

Santa Maria Maggiore

As your Vaporetto turns towards St. Mark Square you get a glimpse of the island church, Santa Maria Maggiore which stands opposite the great square. San Giorgio Maggiore was designed by Andrea Palladio in 1566 in classical renaissance style. The white marble facade gleams against the blue waters. The red brick buildings surrounding it, along with the bell tower, mirror the campanile in St. Marks Square. From the top of the tower, there is one of the most stunning views of the city.

Our final destination is St. Mark’s Square, the drawing room of all Europe. Approaching it from the waters you get an incredible view. I was on pins and needles as the boat pulled into the docks and we were let out to explore this historic square. You feel like one of those first European travellers who visited Venice in the Renaissance to experience all the wondrous art and culture which Venice was so famous for and still is to this very day. While there is SO MUCH to explore on land, taking this journey down the canal is the perfect introduction this city built on top of the water and the magnificent architecture which transformed the city into a dreamland unlike anything you’ve ever seen before.

The post Sail Through Venice’s Stunning Scenery: A Complete Self-Guided Tour of the Grand Canal first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.