This tour will take you around some of Prague’s most famous streets and some off-the-beaten-track neighbourhoods. This is one of the most comprehensive guides to Prague’s street signs, and I have done my best to give you some hints at what the signs symbolize and where they can be found in the city! The tour has two parts: the Old Town and Malá Strana (or the Lesser Quarter). Let’s start with our guide to Prague’s Old Town House Signs.

Table Of Contents

1. Map of Prague's Old Town House Signs
2. History
3. House Sign Designs
4. Prague's House Sign System
5. Týnská
6. Celetná Street
7. Staroměstské náměstí
8. Malé náměstí 
9. Karlova Street
10. Husova Street

Map of Prague’s Old Town House Signs

History

Identifying houses with symbol signage is an antiquated practice that dates back to ancient Egypt. The oldest house sign, made with stone relief, was documented in Ptolemaic Egypt (Giza), dating back to the 3rd century BC. Hundreds of years ago, being able to read was a skill only the nobles or academics possessed. Since most citizens could not read, craftsmen used symbols to identify their businesses so people could find goods and services around town. 
The oldest house signs in Prague, a city steeped in history, date back to the early part of the 14th century. These signs, initially used to identify occupations, later evolved to distinguish the surname of the home’s owner. This system remained in place until 1770, when Bohemia finally adopted the official numbering system. Prague’s late adoption of this system preserved many of these signs, providing a tangible link to our past.

House Sign Designs

The oldest house signs were made of stone and carved with various reliefs. In the baroque age, these signs were made of stucco and plaster. Baroque designs were also painted onto plaster cartouches or tablets and placed onto the facade. Finally, in the later 18th century, the signs were made of metal or wood, more resilient against the elements. These signs were also sometimes hung off the sides of the buildings or placed on boards so that the signs could be more easily replaced should the house be sold off. Because there were only so many different symbols that could be used, sign makers would employ different coloured combinations. This would ensure people could tell the difference between establishments.

Prague’s House Sign System

Prague went through two different numbering systems when the city was enumerated. You can still see both of these numbering systems identified on the front of each house. On each house, two number plates are printed; one on a red plate and the other on a blue plate. The numbers in red are called “descriptive” numbers and date back to 1770. These red numbers seem placed haphazardly as the numbers don’t proceed sequentially from house to house. This is because when the soldiers were designating house numbers, they allocated the following number in the sequence to the newest house built. They did not base the numbers on the following geographic location. So even if your house was far from the previous house on the street, you’d receive the following number in the sequence. 

The blue numbers, however, are instead based on geographic orientation. These were installed when the city was renumbered in the late 19th century. Interestingly, they kept the old red numbering system up despite its confusing nature—another quirky bit of charm which makes Prague such an exciting city.

Týnská

Týnská is one of the oldest streets in the Old Town of Prague. It is located behind the Church of Týn, where it derives its name. The road was initially occupied by foreign merchants. Týnská was located close to the nearby customs office, where merchants had to pay fees and taxes for anything imported. This process would often be quite lengthy, so the merchants needed a place to stay while they waited for their taxes to be calculated. And so the street quickly became a hotbed of inns and lodging houses for the merchants.

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Týnská 632/10, The Three Feathers

The Three Feathers at #10 Týnská is one of the oldest in the lane, built in the 13th century. From 1405 until the 1600s, it was used as a brewery. The Three Feathers represented on the house symbol are a reference to the crest of John of Luxembourg. John of Luxembourg was the King of Bohemia in the 14th century. Since the feathers were drawn from the royal crest, we can assume that perhaps the brewery would have been linked to the court and maybe was their official brewer.

Týnská 6, The Golden Ring

In the center of the house at #6 is a giant Golden Ring, installed in the 17th century. But the house had stood here since the 14th century when it operated as a beer hall. The legend around the ring states that one of the old town ghosts dropped it while passing through the street on one of their nightly haunts. When the beer hall owner discovered it, she hung the ring above her door. Rings, as a closed circle symbol, provide mystical protection against evil. Being a beerhall owner in the Middle Ages was undoubtedly dangerous, so a little bit of good luck couldn’t hurt. The legend was so popular that by the 17th century, the new owner dedicated the name of the house and the newly created house sign to the Golden Ring.

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Celetná Street

Before heading into the old town square, we quickly detour over to Celetná Street. Celetná is named after a famous bread baked in this area during the Middle Ages. As bakeries fed the entire town, they became one of the most important places in the city, like our modern-day grocery stores. Whether you were a peasant, priest or prince, everyone came here to get their daily loaf. Celetná Street would find itself at the start of the Royal Route in the 14th century. The Royal Route was the pathway the king’s procession would travel along during the new royal coronations.

Celetná 29, The Golden Angel

Still a hotel to this day, the Golden Angel was built in 1788 as a private hotel. Inside these doors, some of the most illustrious guests in Prague would lie their heads. It hosted Kings and Queens for hundreds of years until it became a public hotel in the 20th century. Mozart and then Bakunin even stayed here! The house symbol features a golden angel holding a cornucopia and laurel wreath in their hands. The angel is known as a messenger of God. The gifts the angel bears in their arms represent God’s rewards for Christians who keep the faith even during hard times. 

Celetná 21, At the Red Eagle

The original house, which once stood here, was built in a high Gothic fashion in the Gothic period. The current house At the Red Eagle was built in 1725 the Classical style. For many years, the house was owned by Charles University. It was here that many of the school’s professors and faculty would have stayed while teaching on campus. Charles University was started by Emperor Charles IV. Perhaps, for this reason, the symbol on the building incorporates the imperial eagles, with the sword and spear in their hands.

Celetná Street 10, At the White Peacock

The house At the White Peacock features a stunning rococo exterior. Each one of their windows is dripping with flowery stucco decorations. The facade’s central focus is a stucco carving featuring a lovely white peacock set against a pale blue backdrop. We cannot study these symbols in Prague without talking about alchemy. The city of Prague was one of the centers of alchemical study during the 16th century. The influence of this magic spread all over town. Many people come to Prague just to explore the alchemical trail. 

Philosopher’s Stone

The creation of the Philosopher’s Stone, a concept not confined to the realms of fiction but deeply rooted in history and alchemy, is a journey that connects us to the past. Also known as the elixir of eternal life, this substance was the ultimate goal of every alchemist. To create the Philosopher’s Stone, one had to navigate through several intriguing stages. The first stage, blackening, involved working with a dark, impure base material.

The second stage, albedo, is the purification process, where an object transforms and becomes white or pure. For alchemists, peacocks represented that method of creation. Peacock feathers look like a rainbow, and in science, white light is created when all the colours of the rainbow combine. Peacocks are also known to represent protection and watchfulness. This is due to their feathers, which appear like an eye. So perhaps the alchemists are telling us that they are still watching us. 

Celetná 8, At the Black Sun

At #8 Celetná, you will find a large early Gothic house with a rather plain baroque facade. But the real star of this house is the stone archway. The large wooden doors are surrounded by a sturdy stone arch. Above the archway is the relief, which gives the place its name, “The ‘Black Sun.” As a symbol, the Black Sun would be coopted by Prague’s nazis hundreds of years later. When it was carved here, I noticed the sign had a different meaning. In the early medieval period, the ‘black sun’ referred to the first stage of the alchemy trail, called the “blackening.” It is interesting to note that the alchemical trail’s first two stages are located beside each other. No houses on this street are dedicated to the different steps, the Citrinitas or Yellow Stage and the final stage, Rubedo or the Red Stage.

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Týnská 3/629, At the Black Elephant

This sizeable gothic hotel, a silent witness to the passage of time, has stood on the corner of the street since the 14th century! Some of their wine cellars still bear the historic gothic vaultings from the original construction. For hundreds of years, the house has been an inn and hotel, a place where history was made and still welcomes guests to Prague today. Legend has it that the Czech King and Roman Emperor Charles IV was born just a few houses down, a fact that would have undoubtedly drawn a crowd of royal guests to the inn.
The hotel saw famous guests like Tycho Brahe, Mr. Vaclav Havel and Mrs. Albright. Much of the house’s original structure, including the historic house sign, has been preserved. A small stone sign with the rudimentary image of an elephant carved upon it marks the property. The elephant is nestled inside a shield topped with a small castle tower. The symbol of an elephant carrying a building is often used as a symbol of wealth.

Staroměstské náměstí

Staroměstské náměstí, or Old Town Square, was first established in the 13th century. It was used as the Old Marketplace for the citizens of Prague. As time passed, the square’s importance grew, eventually transforming the area around it into one of Prague’s most sought-after real estate locations. Some of Prague’s most unbelievable historical buildings surround the Old Town square. Within them are some great examples of House Symbols.

Staroměstské náměstí 605/13, At the Stone Bell

The house At the Stone Bell has one of Prague’s few remaining medieval facades. While many houses might be just as old, many facades have seen multiple renovations over the years. The house was once the palace of King John of Luxemburg and his wife, Eliška Premyslide. When John took power over Prague, he found the old royal palace to be uninhabitable, so he went about creating his new royal palace here in Staroměstské náměstí. While many royal palaces contained a private chapel, this house surprisingly contained two chapels! 

The house sign of the stone bell was installed in 1413. You can see it if you look closely right at the corner of the building. Bells are known to represent the voice of the angels. As the palace had two chapels, one can imagine that the King was a very spiritual man and wanted his house symbol to reflect that. It is also thought that the bell is meant to represent the arrival of King John to Bohemia.

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Staroměstské náměstí 10, Golden Cross House

This gorgeous pale pink building has one of the most fantastical house signs right on the house’s pinnacle. The building has beautiful, rich stucco designs with vines and floral motifs. The heraldic crest of Prague is set into the doorway, a three-towered castle with a soldier’s arm sticking out of the gates. But this is not the symbol we are searching for.

Up top, there is a huge relief set into the triangular tympanum. A shining golden sun with a cross in the middle acts like a beacon above the rest of the Old Town Square buildings. This cross highly resembles the military design of the Star of the Grand Cross of the Iron Cross, the highest military decoration of the Kingdom of Prussia and the German Empire. The Iron Cross went on to be used as military decoration during the Nazi empire, and its use faded after that. 

Staroměstské náměstí 551/17, House at the Stone Lamb

Along Staroměstské náměstí, stop at #551/17, where you’ll find the house At the Stone Lamb. This house is located on what was once the ‘Royal Way.’ The route starts at Republic Square and passes Prague’s most impressive sights, ending at Prague Castle. Many prospective alchemists came to the city of Prague in the hopes of meeting the Emperor. They would often stay in this house, previously a hotel, as its proximity to the royal way was thought to show reverence to the Emperor.

The house that contained the hotel had two names: House At the Stone Lamb and House At the Stone Unicorn. Both titles came from the relief carved on the building’s front between the first and second floors. The carving indeed looks like a lamb, but the single horn on its head would denote a unicorn. No one seemed to have been able to agree on one answer, so it is known interchangeably.

Staroměstské náměstí 550/18, At the Stone Table 

This stunning Romanesque house was rebuilt in the high Baroque style in 1724 and is notable for the incredible stucco decorations around the windows. A huge fresco of St. John the Merciful is on the facade surrounded by a lavish stucco frame. The building was transformed into a literary salon by the Fant sisters. It became a popular spot with Prague’s literary and scientific elite. The name is because of the 15th-century owner, George of Poděbrady, who used it as a foreign exchange office. St. John was a good choice for the house sign as John devoted himself to charitable works and made regular payments to poorhouses.

Staroměstské náměstí 20, At the Golden Unicorn

The pale blue building on the square is called the House at the Golden Unicorn. This is another Romanesque building that was converted into a palace in 1496. Beneath each window, you’ll find a beautiful lily carved into the stone, dating back to its baroque renovation in 1712. In 1781, the building was purchased by W. Ch. Gerle, who opened it up as Prague’s first public reading room. In 1791, Czech composer Bedřich Smetana purchased the building, which turned it into a music school. The house also served as Ludwig van Beethoven’s residence in 1796 when he came to Prague.

Although the house is officially called the “Golden Unicorn,” it has also been called the House at the White Horse and the House at the Red Door. Each one of these names comes from previous house signs, which would have marked the location. Today, the house symbol is a beautiful golden relief of the Madonna, which sits between the windows on the second floor. Unicorns are often associated with virginity, and as the Madonna was a virgin herself, the nickname of the house is no doubt taken from that correlation.

Staroměstské náměstí 24/480, At the Red Fox or Golden Wolf

A few doors down, we find the house At the Golden Fox. The house is also sometimes called the House of the Golden Wolf. The Romanesque structure was rebuilt in the Gothic style, but the current appearance is from the Baroque era. The original sign here was replaced during the Baroque renovations in place of a golden relief of the Virgin Mary. One can only imagine what the previous sign would have looked like, but we know that red foxes symbolize unpredictable change and awareness. Undoubtedly, the owner would have installed the sign during a period of upheaval in Prague’s history, hoping his business would improve for it.

Staroměstské nám 2/3, At the Minute (At the White Lion)

This building is one of the oldest on the square, built in the late gothic style. The most attention-grabbing part of the facade is the rich Mannerist sgrafitto applied like bands around the exterior. The paintings represent Ancient Greek and biblical themes as well as Renaissance legends. A veritable snapshot of the morals of the time. The white stone sculpture of a lion is located on the corner of the building, which gives the house its name. The building was originally the old town hall, fitting as the symbol of the lion, representing justice and military power.

U Radnice 8, The Green Frog

Above the Hotel U Tri Bubnu entrance is a little symbol of a green frog. This marks the house At the Green Frog. This building is part of an extensive series of medieval structures connected to form this large complex opposite the Old Town Square. In the 15th century, a tailor ran his shop out of this house. He was well known for creating fantastical outfits for Bohemian circus performers.

One day, while working on a costume, his maid came in to clean up his studio. She thought she saw a giant green frog and heard the scream of the tailor erupting from the frog’s belly. She ran for help, but they burst out laughing when the town’s guard showed up. It wasn’t a giant frog but the tailor in a green suit. The tailor tried his own acrobatics performance and got his legs stuck behind his head, making him look like a frog while in this giant green costume. The hilarious story spread throughout the town. Instead of being embarrassed, the tailor took on the frog as a symbol of his shop, seeing as he was already getting the free press!

Malé náměstí 

Malé náměstí or the “small courtyard,” is a triangular square located a few steps away from Old Town Square. While small, the court contained several prominent buildings from the Middle Ages that everyone frequented. These included the famous hardware store, a locksmith and a pharmacy. Despite its small stature, this area of town even made it onto the Royal Route.

Malé náměstí 12, The Golden Lily

As a French merchant group settled this area, it’s no surprise we find evidence of their heritage. House #12, called the Golden Lily, was built in the Gothic period but renovated in 1698 in a high baroque style. The fleur-de-lis, or lily, was mentioned as being the house symbol as far back as 1405! This makes it one of the oldest house symbols in Prague. The building was originally the town pharmacy. Since the lily represents purity and fertility, it is an excellent symbol for the pharmacy. This pharmacy supplied medication to the court and the king. This is perhaps why the emblem was coated in gold to make it stand out as the “royal” pharmacy, not to be confused with those “common” pharmacies.

Malé náměstí 13, At the Golden Crown

In the 15th century, the pharmacy moved next door to #13 later. When it did so, it took on the name “At the Golden Crown” and had a huge regal crown emblem to match. The crown’s design resembles the great Bohemian Crown of St. Wenceslas, an iconic Czech jewellery piece. Ironically enough (or perhaps by design), the building currently serves as a fancy jewellery shop. Take a peek inside, as the interior retains some of the antique pharmacy furniture and decor.

Malé náměsti 14/956, At the Little Black Horse

The house near the corner is called the Little Black Horse (although the horse is now painted a beautiful midnight blue). The house dates back to the 16th century when it served as a boarding house. When it was first built, the house was much larger, spread around the corner and contained a 40-horse stable. Having a large stable meant nobles could rest their horse near where they slept and not have to walk long distances between the inn and the stables.

Karlova Street

Karlova Street is a pedestrians-only street that connects a small square to the Charles Bridge. It is named after Charles IV and was an essential part of the Royal route.

Karlova Street 48/455, At the Golden Crown

The house on the street corner, painted terracotta red, is one of two gothic palaces that have since been joined together. The facade bears the late 18th-century reconstruction and classicist style. On the front of the house is the large house symbol of a great golden crown carved in stucco. The house sign is originally from the 16th century. For over 200 years, the house served as a pharmacy.

Karlova 28, At the White Shoe

The House at the White Shoe is an old gothic house with a Renaissance facade. Above each window is a series of three adorable little blooming roses. The house sign on the front depicts an old shoe, which is traditional. This was undoubtedly an old shoemaker or cobbler shop and would have been where many of Karlova’s elite would have come to get their shoes fixed. Back then, owning a pair of shoes was costly, so people would have them fixed up rather than just buy a new pair.

Seminarska 6, At the Black Star

As we walk along Karlova, turn up Seminarska Street for a quick detour. This ancient house at #6 dates back to 1538 and has retained its Gothic and Renaissance appearance. The name “Seminarska” means Seminar Street. This street would have once been where the priestly seminary was, close to the nearby Clementinum. Although the building looks like it is made of large stones, this is merely sgraffito (carved stucco) to give the appearance of a costly stone facade. The Black Star, with eight points, is where the house gets its name. The Black Star symbolizes female deities since the planet Venus (often associated with female gods) has eight-year cycles.  

Seminarska 2, House of the Golden Well

You find the house at the Golden Well just down the road from the Black Star. This house contains the oldest foundations in the Old Town, dating back to the 12th century! Just as the home of the Black Star relates to the female spirit, so does this house. Right in the facade’s centre is a golden star with the Madonna and child’s image in the middle. Once more, this star has eight points. Perhaps this hints at the fact that this entire street was dedicated to female pursuits. Surrounding the star are stucco figures of St. Wenceslas, St. Jan of Nepomuk, St. Roch, St. Sebastian, St. Ignatius of Loyola, St. Francis Xavier and St. Rosalia.

Karlova 18, House at the Golden Snake

The blood-red building on the corner of Karlova and Liliová Street bears a beautiful house number featuring a golden snake with a crown on his head and the figure of a tiny human in his mouth. The ancient symbol of a snake regurgitating man is a symbol of fertility. The house was originally the first cafe in Prague and is still open as a traditional Czech restaurant today.

Karlova Street 20/180, At the Blue Pike

According to a popular legend, the house called At the Blue Pike was one of Prague’s first pubs. The pub was so popular that it was even frequented by Wenceslas IV and his court magician Žito.

Karlova Street 14/183, The Stoned Siren

At #183, we can see the motif of a beautiful mermaid carved into the stone on the corner of the house. The symbol dates to 1439. Mermaids are the embodiment of the sacred feminine. One can imagine that the previous owners may have been involved in businesses for women or employed women. In Greek mythology, a siren is a dangerous creature that enchants sailors with her voice, causing them to be shipwrecked on the shore near their lair. Many people also think the siren story is an allegory for how prostitutes lead men to poverty.

Liliová 5, the Vorechovsky house

Liliová Street was an old pathway used as far back as the early Middle Ages, which connected Vyšehrad (the old royal palace) to the Vltava ford. As such, it was a significant street for traders. Dům U Voříkovských, or the Vorechovsky house, is on the corner of the road. The name of the place comes from the knight Jan Bohuslav Voříkovský of Kundratice, who was the mayor of Prague. The house sign on the front is a beautiful but faded late Renaissance painting of the Escape to Egypt. The story from the Gospel of Matthew details how an angel appeared to Joseph in a dream, telling him to flee to Egypt with Mary and the unborn baby Jesus. The angel warned him that King Herod would seek to kill the child. 

The neighbourhood where the house was constructed in the 14th century was dominated by the Dominicans who lived at the church of St. Anny. Therefore, having a religious symbol above your door would keep you in line with the other neighbours. Below the painting is a little carving of a hand holding a piece of fruit, just on the vault’s apex leading into the house.

Liliová 12/246, At the Golden Hare

At #12 Liliová Street, we find a tiny little house sign. Set against an emerald background is a beautiful little golden rabbit. The house is a lovely example of early Baroque residential architecture. Rabbits and hares have been associated with fertility.

Řetézová 8/245, At the Black Boot

Head back up, Liliova, and cross over to Řetězová Street. At the house at #8, we find an old black boot set against a blood-red background. This house is named At the Black Boot. Unlike the fancy shoe carving we found along Karlova Street, this is an example of a commoner cobbler shop.

Jalovcová 1, At the Three Silver Roses

The old townhome on the corner of the street bears the insignia of three black roses with the words “U tří stříbrných růží” above them, which stands for the house “At the Three Silver Roses.” Originally, the building was two smaller Gothic houses that joined together in 1405, when it became a brewery. In 1806, Václav Kramerius, a Czech publisher, journalist, writer, and one of the most important early figures of the Czech National Revival, bought the house for himself.

Here, he could print and publish books in the Czech language, a first for the city. Despite the name being silver, the colours of the roses are black. Black roses symbolize significant change, perfectly fitting for Kramerius, who wanted to bring change to Prague by using the native Czech language. It has been renovated into a brewery to embrace its historical roots.

Husova Street

Husova Street is named after famed Czech theologian and philosopher Jan Hus. It is said that Hus attended school on the road at No. 71, so the street was named after him.

Husova 12, The Three Standard-Bearers

The house sign at #12 is not easily missed. Unlike the small carvings above doorways, the Three Standard-Bearers’ house sign is a huge marquee splashed across the facade. Three almost lifesized figures are painted onto plaques that stand atop the first floor of the building. These paintings date back to the 19th century. The original building, constructed in 1580, was previously known as the “Three Angels.”  

The legend of these three characters goes back to the 1730s. Three men who were best friends each were conscripted to a different division in the army. They each agreed to meet back here at this spot after the war was over. Two of them came back and waited for the third. When they finally saw him walking down the street, as he approached, the other two discovered that the man was a ghost, killed in battle. The spirit warned the other soldiers of their impending deaths. Thinking this meant they would be killed in action, the soldiers left the army and joined the nearby monastery. But there is no running from death, and the two friends died within the year of a disease which spread inside the Franciscan monastery of Our Lady of the Snows.

Husova 13, House of the Three Ducks

On the corner of Husova and Řetězová, we find one of the original medieval houses. Although the appearance has changed over the years, it maintains its square floor plan. Above the doorway is an embossed house sign with three ducks carved onto it. Ducks symbolize caring, nurturing, comfort, and fertility. 

Husova 15, House of the Blue Grapes

At number 15 on Husova Street, we have this charming baby blue-painted house. The house dates back to 1370 and is one of the oldest places on the road. The current baroque facade dates back to the 1700s. The large house sign on the front gives the building its name, House of the Blue Grapes. The carving is made up of the image of two men carrying a giant bunch of blue grapes. This sculpture was made in the 18th century by famed Czech sculptor Josef Malinský. The two men are thought to be Joshua and Caleb, returning from Eshcol’s valley to the waiting Israelites. The story’s moral is that God keeps his promises if you follow his word.

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Husova 17, House of the Golden Tiger

In the Middle Ages, tigers were thought to represent the cruelty of war. Thus, tigers were not a very popular symbol for house signs as they were almost taboo. But this taboo eventually caught on as a trendy subversion. It became avant-garde for European cafes to use these animals as their house symbols. This cafe first used a black lion as their house sign. It wasn’t until 1713 that it became known as the House of the Golden Tiger and was fitted with the matching symbol. Some of the Czech Republic’s most famous writers, politicians and artists have frequented the Golden Tiger. It became almost a creative workshop for the city and was full of creative energy!

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Husova 18/157, At the Golden Horse

This 15th-century house was rebuilt in the classicist style in 1804 but still displays the beautiful frescoed house sign. The House at the Golden Horse depicts a beautiful golden horse running across a blue and green landscape. Horses are known to symbolize freedom, but this horse most likely was used to indicate a stable where people could store their horses on the way into the city.

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Michalská 13/439, At the White Hare

At house number #13, we find the house At the White Hare. The gothic construction with classicist reconstruction contains a fresco of the rabbit jumping across the plains in a small painting above the doorway. White hares and rabbits were sometimes the symbols of innocence and purity.

Michalská Street 19/436, Iron Gatehouse

Michalská Street was named after the Church of St. Michael the Archangel, built here in the second half of the 12th century. The Iron Gatehouse was built in 1519 and contained a beautiful fresco above the doorway depicting Samson at the Gate of Gaza. This story involves Samson sleeping with a prostitute when visiting the city of Gaza. His enemies planned to surprise him at the city’s inner gates and attack him in the morning. But Samson arose at midnight and destroyed the city’s colossal stone doors in an act to humiliate and oppose the Gaziites. Without city gates, the city was vulnerable to attack. This story from the bible portrays Samson as the flawed hero and is thought to prove that God’s plan is sometimes achieved with all kinds of people, not just the pious.

Kožná 475, The House at the Two Golden Bears

Before turning down Melantrichova, look at the house on the corner of Kožná. The building was constructed in 1567 and is known as the house at the Two Golden Bears. Court architect Bonifaz Wohlmut designed the wonderfully detailed stone portal in the 16th century. The two bears, one light smaller than the other, are said to represent the Great Bear (Ursa Major) and Little Bear (Ursa Minor) constellations.

Beside each of the bears is a knight that kneels beside them, holding a branch in their hands. The man on the left is slightly larger than the man on the left. These two figures represent old age and youth. The branch the older man is holding is beginning to dry out, while the branch in the younger man’s hand was once painted with green paint to show off its new growth. You can read this as an interpretation of the cycle of life. But there is another reading of this house sign, which symbolizes the alchemist’s creation of the elixir of life. Perhaps the young man isn’t ageing at all, but the old man is becoming young again after drinking the elixir of life!

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Melantrichova 11, House of the Five Crowns  

Melantrichova Street was named after the Czech Renaissance printer and publisher Jiří Melantrich, who lived in Prague from 1511 to 1580. The house at #11 is a Gothic structure with a Renaissance facade. Along the front, sandwiched between the second and third-floor windows, are a series of carved crowns, which give the house its name, House of the Five Crowns. Seeing as the crowns are repeated, it is clear that whoever lived in this house wanted their royal status to be at the forefront of every visitor’s mind when they approached.

Rytirska 16, The Blue Rose 

Rytířská Street was one of the medieval streets where jousting tournaments took place as part of the celebrations during the coronation of Charles IV. This tradition would continue for hundreds of years. The street was also used as a large marketplace. The western part of the road was known as the egg market, and the eastern part was known as the goose market. The U Modré růže house, or the Blue Rose, was established here in 1364. The gothic tower, which remains in place, is one of the more unique aspects of the house. Above the original doorway is a carving of a beautiful blue rose in a cartouche. Blue roses are known to symbolize unrequited love or love lost. Perhaps the house owner had the symbol made in honour of a love lost.

Na Můstku 4, Samuel’s House

Stop at house #4 on Na Můstku street. This house, called the Samuel’s House, is an odd shape, with one edge jutting out from the rest. This is because two older homes were joined together to form one building. You’ll find the tremendous baroque house sign at the corner of the join, a sculpture of Samuel anointing David as he becomes king. The 16th-century owner of the home had this installed as his first name was Samuel.

Na Můstku 6/381, At the Two White Pigeons

This beautifully bright white terraced gothic house has the most wonderful oval cartouche displaying the house sign above the front entrance. Two small white pigeons are set against a sky-blue background that give the house its name. Surrounding the insignia is a richly decorated stucco frame set against the baroque facade, dating back to the 1840s. Pigeons are often associated with the Holy Spirit. They are sometimes regarded as a symbol of pure, innocent, and true things. But when we see two pigeons together like this, it symbolizes true love and commitment as pigeons and doves mate for life.

Října 378, The Bee Hive

In medieval times, the house we see at #378 on Října was a series of small homes. Later, in the 16th century, the townhomes were joined to form this large palace. In 1789, a beeswax maker named Nicholas Fischer took ownership of the property and called it the Bee Hive. He remodelled the house in high baroque fashion and added his house symbol to the top, a stunning golden beehive made in stucco. The tiny bees which appear to fly in and out of the hive are incredibly charming. The beehive symbol is strongly connected to the Freemasons as the hive represents the lodge or meeting place for the members. Many people suspect the beeswax business was just a front for the Freemasons.

This brings us to the end of the tour in the Old Town. You can continue the tour of the Mala Strana House signs by heading across the Vlatava River to the western side of town. Feel free to end the tour here and continue exploring the old city’s wonder. And continue the second part of the tour another day! Let me know in the comments what your favourite house sign was or what your house sign would be if you were to have one.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

Resources

Pamatkovykatalog | Kralovskacesta | Wiki Commons (Images)

The post Ultimate Walking Tour of Prague’s Old Town House Signs first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Because of its age and relatively slow progress towards revitalization, the Bowery is home to the city’s most diverse collection of architectural streetscapes. You can see building styles from Georgian, Federal, Greek Revival, Italianate, Victorian, Neo Grec, Queen Anne, Beaux Arts, and Art Deco all in one place! So if you’re a history, crime or architecture buff, this Walking Tour of the Bowery is just for you! The ghosts we will discuss along the way are not just paranormal but also the memories of the rich past found along Satan’s Highway. So come with us as we discover the secrets hidden along the Bowery.

Guided Tour of the Bowery

1. About the Tour
2. Map of the Walking Tour
3. History of the Bowery
4. St. Mark's Church in-the-Bowery
5. Cooper Union
6. McSorley's Old Ale House
7. Columbia Hall
8. Merchant's House Museum
9. Germania Fire Insurance Building
10. Tenement Housing
11. The Bowery Hotel
12. Bouwerie Lane Theatre
13. il Buco Restaurant
14. #31 Bond Street
15. #21 Bleecker Street
16. Bleecker Street & Bowery
17. CBGB
18. McGurk's Salon
19. The Houston Bowery Mural
20. Sammy's Bowery Follies
21. #222 Bowery
22. The Bowery Mission
23. The Bowery House Hotel
24. Alabama Flophouse
25. #210 Bowery
26. Germania Bank Building
27. The Bowery Ballroom
28. Sohotel
29. Bowery Savings Bank
30. #139 Hester Street
31. #129 Mulberry Street
32. Citizens Savings Bank
33. Bull's Head Tavern
34. Bowery Theatre
35. #40-42 Bowery
36. #18 Bowery
37. Doyers Street
38. Five Points

About the Tour

This Walking Tour of the Bowery will take about two hours to walk at a leisurely pace. We will be covering just over 1.6 miles throughout the tour. Be sure to wear really comfortable walking shoes. Throughout the tour we will talk about the history of the neighbourhood, the ghosts which haunt the streets and the many stories that make this district a rich tapestry of cultures and curiosities. The ghoulish nature of the tour makes it a great one to take during the spooky Halloween season!

Although the Bowery has changed a lot over the past 20 years, the area is still one I would advise avoiding late at night. The best time to do this tour is in the late afternoon and early evening before everything gets too dark.

Map of the Walking Tour

History of the Bowery

One thing that makes the Bowery such a captivating place to visit is that this one long stretch of roadway seems to encapsulate everything that is so iconic about New York City. The Bowery boasts historic architecture, fierce stories of the criminal underbelly, upscale hotels, and tales of the ghosts that haunt part of town. While the Bowery was once Hell’s Highway, today is a sophisticated neighbourhood popular with hipsters. But it hasn’t yet lost all of its gritty charm and historical destinations.

Boundaries of the Bowery

The boundaries of the Bowery start at Astor Place and extend south to Chatham Square. The road stretches across the Lower East Side, through Chinatown, the East Village and Little Italy. But long before European colonizers arrived on these shores, the Bowery was a simple dirt pathway. The lane was created by the indigenous Lenape people who initially settled here. The Lenape carved out the road to better provide access for their people to the fishing posts along the East River.

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After the Dutch invaded, they stole the land from the Lenape people but kept the roadway as it proved extremely useful. The Dutch renamed the street; Bowery Lane. The word “Bowery“ comes from the Dutch word bouwerie, which meant “farm.” In the neighbourhood’s early days of Dutch colonization, they plotted farmland adjacent to Bowery Lane. This allowed farmers to transport their goods easily out of town as well as bring in much-needed supplies.

The Oldest African-American Neighbourhood in America

When the Dutch arrived, they came with kidnapped and enslaved men and women from Africa. The Dutch West India Company was, in fact, the first country to start the African slave trade. But in 1645, the same company that tore Africans from their homeland granted them parcels of land in the Bowery. They also named them “freed enslaved peoples.”

But it wasn’t out of guilt or a sense of morality that they did this. The Dutch hoped that the freed enslaved people would help tame the wilderness around Bowery Lane. Not only this, but they hoped they would build houses that would act as a barrier along the East River. The Dutch were afraid of an uprising from the Indigenous people or an invasion from the British and were using these homes as their first line of defence. But, no matter the reasoning, this move resulted in the Bowery becoming home to the first African-American neighbourhood in America.

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Bowery Slaughterhouses

As the population grew around the Bowery, the rural farmland transformed into the beginnings of a small urban village. Public slaughterhouses were the first major businesses to call the neighbourhood home. The land towards the southern tip of the Bowery held the Collect Pond. This huge water source spread across 48 acres and was the primary source of fresh water for this part of the city. The slaughterhouses took advantage of this access as a means to drain off their stinking waste. Slowly poisoning the water for the residents. It was only a matter of time before what was once a charming water feature became a foul-smelling pit. With no choice but to drain the pond, the slaughterhouses and butchers had to move further west into what is now the Meat Packing District. 

With the pond drained, and the land on which it once stood filled, the Bowery’s population was not only expanding but changing. The northern parts of the district began to change. What was once primarily a lower-class neighbourhood became land for the aristocracy. The elite of New York were after large plots of land where they could build expansive mansions and lavish apartments. The narrow Bowery lane was widened into a broad avenue to service these new upper-class establishments. Elegant buildings started to pop up on either side of the street. Many thought this was the Bowery’s boom era and the street would go onto rival Fifth Avenue. Alas, this was not to be the path forward for the Bowery.

The El Train

The fate of the Bowery changed with the construction of the El Train or the Elevated Railway. With a city like New York facing such rapid expansion, transit became one of the most important pieces of infrastructure to tackle. Immigrants lived in the city’s outer edges, like the Bowery. But, for work, they needed to travel far to the centre of Manhattan. Horse-drawn rail cars could only carry so many people. And the new invention of the omnibus was taking up precious space on what were now crowded roadways. So the idea was to take transit off the streets and raise it above. Onto elevated rails.

Railroad tracks were built above the streets, and one of the first lines to be built was the Third Avenue Elevated Rail in 1878. This rail line ran almost the entire length of the Bowery. And while access to transit sounds like a good idea for an up-and-coming neighbourhood, it became the catalyst for the Bowery’s descent into debauchery.

The dark iron rails that held the tracks essentially cut out the sun. Making the underbelly of the El tracks a good spot for shadowy deeds to take place. The middle-class businesses starting to populate the streets suddenly found themselves under a constant barrage of soot and grease from the trains above. No woman on her way to the dressmaker wanted to find herself covered in grease upon exiting the building. Not to mention the noise. All the upper-class customers fled, forcing the only decent businesses left on the Bowery to close. 

Into the Hell’s Gate

Property values were in the toilet! But with so many vacant buildings, low-class establishments took this as their opportunity to move in. Brothels, gambling halls, theatres, wild concert venues, beer gardens, pawn shops, and flophouses all started to call the Bowery home. No longer was the character of the street that of a district on the rise. Instead, gangs ruled the streets and the slums crept into the once well-to-do buildings. Prostitution, alcoholism and homelessness were rampant problems across the Bowery. And the streets were undoubtedly one of the most dangerous places to find yourself in New York City in the 19th century.

Theodore Roosevelt visited the area in 1913. After his visit, he stated; “The Bowery is one of the great highways of humanity, a highway of seething life, of varied interest, of fun, of work, of sordid and terrible tragedy; and it is haunted by demons as evil as any that stalk through the pages of the “Inferno.” This quote would lend itself to Bowery getting the nickname “Hell’s Gate.“

Transformation of Skid Row

The Bowery remained New York City’s “Skid Row” until the 1970s. But in the 70s, New York City displaced the multitudes of homeless people who had found themselves clustered in this neighbourhood. This, along with demolishing the El train elevated railway, would bring about a new era for the Bowery. The 1990s would see gentrification begin to creep in. Today, the historic buildings are surrounded by high-rise condos, luxury apartment complexes and even a Whole Foods grocery store. Proof that as quickly as a neighbourhood can change for the worse, it can change for the better.

St. Mark’s Church in-the-Bowery

The first stop on our Walking Tour of the Bowery is at the old St. Mark’s Church in-the-Bowery. It is on this spot that the development of the neighbourhood truly began. At the intersection of 2nd and 10th Street, walk north until you see the giant silhouette of a church in the distance. As you approach, keep your ears peeled for the sounds of an old church bell ringing in the distance.

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Petrus Stuyvesant

The church marks the site where Petrus (Peter) Stuyvesant first built his home when he landed on the shores of what was then a new colony in 1652. Stuyvesant was the first governor of the then-named New Amsterdam. Stuyvesant has been a great Dutch soldier. But during a battle against the Spanish, he was badly wounded and lost his leg. It was amputated and replaced with a wooden prosthetic, giving him the nickname “Peg Leg Pete.” Because he could no longer fight, he was selected by the Dutch West India Company to go to New York. There he would serve as governor over one of their new colonies.

After his accident, Stuyvesant was a melancholy man and being sent away surely didn’t help things. But he was also a religious man. Even away from home he wanted to create a place where he felt a connection to his homeland. And he did this through the construction of a church, a place that brought him much peace. Stuyvesant had purchased this specific property for his dwelling because it was located far away from the hustle and bustle of the “big city.” Back then remember, the Bowery was a small parcel of farmland. But throughout his time as governor, Stuyvesant watched the area grow. And transform. Much to his dismay, his once peaceful neighbourhood would soon be riddled with townhouses and noisy pedestrians.

Despite all this, Stuyvesant stayed put in his new home. When he died, he was buried beneath his chapel. In 1793 the original chapel was sold off but the community built an even more impressive Episcopal church in its place in 1795. The same one which stands here today.

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The Ghost of St. Mark’s Church in-the-Bowery

But soon after building the new and improved church, people started noticing strange occurrences happening inside. One day, the villagers were awoken by the tolling of the church bell. This would usually not be a strange noise, but this bell was ringing in the middle of the night. And it wouldn’t stop!

Everyone raced to the church to see what was the matter. But when they arrived, they found the door to the bell tower locked shut from the inside. When they finally broke down the door, the noise stopped. But the room was empty. And they looked up to find the bell’s rope had been cut. The only reachable part of the rope was way too far above the ground for anyone human to reach. Everyone was perplexed as to how the bell had been rung at all, let alone for hours.

The townsfolk searched the church for clues. Finally, they found the torn part of the rope lying atop Peter Stuyvesant‘s crypt. And as they were all standing around the crypt in silent horror, they heard the sound of Stuyvesant’s wooden leg echoing throughout the halls of the church. Today many people report still hearing the ghostly footsteps of Stuyvesant’s wooden leg throughout the church. Still watching over his new colony.

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The Body Snatchers

Another interesting story from the churchyard was that of the theft of Alexander Turney Stewart body! When he died in April 1876, Alexander Turney Stewart was America’s third-richest man. Stewart made his fortune as a retailer. He was a hugely popular figure in the city, and his funeral was packed with the cream of the crop. Writers, politicians, lawyers and more all came out to St. Mark’s Church on the Bowery to pay their respects.

In October, six months after Stewart’s burial, the church sexton noticed that stone doors to the Stewart family vault had been disturbed. When he looked inside, he noticed several vault slabs moved, but the tombs were still in place. The sexton was immediately suspicious, with fears of so-called “resurrection men” on the rise who were known to steal corpses. The sexton made sure to hire a night watchmen just in case the people who broke in tried to do it again.

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Resurrection Men

In the 1780s, grave robbing was on the rise. Originally grave robbing was mainly done for doctors to get their hands on “fresh” dead bodies. They used these to practice their trade and other medical experiments. But in the 1870s, the sensation of grave robbing was often done in search of ransom. Even Abraham Lincoln’s body was the victim of an attempted robbery! Although thankfully, that was thwarted. But it was not uncommon for the bodies of wealthy men to fetch a handsome price. Once the ransom was paid, the bodies would be returned.

The Theft of A. T. Stewart’s Body

Unfortunately, the night watchmen the sexton had hired failed at his one duty. And on the morning of November 7th, the sexton discovered the body of A. T. Stewart had been removed from his vault. Police arrived on the scene and were horrified by the brown blotches they found around the area. These were immediately identified as “pieces” of Stewart himself. Stewart had been dead for more than eight months and would have been in a terrible state of decomposition. So when the criminals left with the body, they left bits of the body trailing behind… But the trail went cold, and the police had no leads.

Media Sensation

The newspapers ate up this media sensation. A reward of $25,000 was offered to the public for any information leading to the thief’s capture. Hundreds of letters poured in with theories, but none proved to provide any actual leads. In 1879 the attorneys for Stewart received a letter from Canada claiming to be the robbers. When the lawyers asked for proof, they provided several silver pieces of Stewart’s missing nameplate, also taken during the robbery. The lawyers tried negotiating with the thieves, but something must have scared them off. Perhaps it was all the talk of the robbery is all the papers. Either way, they never wrote to the family again.

Walling’s Confession

A very contested private memoir by the residing police chief Walling claimed that he was in communication with the real thieves. And he claimed to have negotiated with the criminals. With the help of Stewart’s wife, they met up at midnight on an abandoned pathway outside the Hudson Valley. The masked men arrived on horseback with a velvet coffin cloth taken from the tomb. And a bag of bones they claimed were Stewart’s.

The masked men handed them over in exchange for the money and rode off into the night. Walling claims the bones were taken back by Stewart’s wife. In 1885, they were laid in the Cathedral of the Incarnation, where Stewart’s wife was also buried. But many have refuted this claim as gossip and a way for Walling to make a few bucks on his memoir.

No one will ever know the truth, but many people have claimed that the cemetery is haunted by the ghost of Stewart himself. Stewart is known to roam angrily around the church, furious about being torn from his grave. Many say if you smell something awful, like the piece of his body that was trailed behind, that is a sign Stewart is just around the corner. Whatever the case, stories like this prove there is something truly cursed about the Bowery.

Cooper Union

Head west along the aptly named Stuyvesant Street towards Astor Place. On Astor Place and Cooper Square you’ll find a gorgeous Italiane brownstone that stands out amongst the glass towers surrounding it. This is the old Cooper Union Foundation Building. The Cooper Union Foundation Building was named after American Industrialist Peter Cooper. Cooper invented rolled-iron beams which provided a dramatically more powerful support system in engineering buildings. And these new beams were first implemented inside the Cooper Union Foundation Building.

The Cooper Union Foundation Building was also revolutionary as it featured the world’s first elevator shaft. The shaft itself was built into the design of the building despite the actual elevator not even yet being invented! It was Cooper’s dream for the building to house an educational institute, open and accessible to all. Regardless of their financial situation or social status. Cooper was a workingman’s son who had less than a year of formal schooling and yet he wnt on to become a famous industrialist and inventor. And he wanted these same opportunities to be open to young people across the country. To discover and develope their talents. And the Bowery was filled with such people!

When the institute was opened, it held night classes for adult education in applied sciences and architectural drawing. During the day, the school was open for women. They could attend classes on such subjects as photography, telegraphy, typewriting and shorthand.

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Abraham Lincoln at the Cooper Union

On February 27th, 1860, Abraham Lincoln came to the Cooper Union’s Great Hall to deliver a speech that would cement itself in the history books. And propel him toward the presidency. A New York writer said of the address, “No man ever before made such an impression on his first appeal to a New York audience.” Abolitionists had been centralized in this part of the Bowery for years. This was the perfect spot for Lincoln to find like-minded people to speak to. Since then, the Great Hall has served as a platform for historic addresses by American Presidents Grant, Cleveland, Taft, Theodore Roosevelt, Woodrow Wilson, and Bill Clinton. Today it remains an architectural gem and historic artifact.

McSorley’s Old Ale House

Walk south along 3rd Avenue until you reach East 7th Street. Walk west along east 7th Street until you come to #15, where you’ll find the historic McSorley’s Old Ale House. McSorley’s is Manhattan’s oldest continuously run tavern! You definitely need to make a point to stop here. McSorley’s Old Ale House was opened in 1854 by Irish immigrant John McSorley. And one of the most unique aspects of the tavern is that they still to this day only sell two traditional drinks; a light ale and a dark ale. But at only $5.50-per-drink you won’t mind the lack of choice.

The bar is also of important historic significance as it was here, that President Abraham Lincoln came for drink after speaking at the Cooper Union. The chair hanging above the bar was the one that Abraham Lincoln himself sat in when he came in for a drink. 

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Ghosts of McSorely’s

Walking inside is like stepping back in time. The dark wooden interior is plastered with paintings and photographs from the past. When John McSorely opened the pub, he also kept his horses in the back. Today remnants of those stables are also hung all over the walls. See if you can count all the horseshoes. As the bar was famed for Lincoln’s attendance, they also have several pieces of ephemera from his presidency, including a framed newspaper announcing his death and the wanted poster for John Wilkes Booth. Another famous person who visited the bar was Harry Houdini. And the handcuffs he once used in his show are hung up here on the wall!

But lurking in the shadows, amongst the displays, are the ghosts of the tavern’s past. One of their frequent ghosts seems to have an affinity with the bar cats that lounge around. Bar staff have frequently seen their cats arching their backs and nuzzling into invisible hands. They are also reports of disembodied noises late at night. Perhaps some of their patrons have simply never left.

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Columbia Hall

Walking back to 3rd Avenue/Cooper Square, make your way to #32 Cooper Square, where you’d once have found the old Columbia Hall. In the 1890s, the Bowery was known as the center of queer nightlife in New York City. People of different races, social statuses, and backgrounds all congregated in the Bowery, resulting in a more tolerant attitude towards a variety of then-named “social outcasts.”

Columbia Hall was opened in 1890 by James or Biff Ellison. Ellison was a well-known gangster within the Five Points (more on that later) and opened this establishment as a brothel for gay men. There was a large bar and beer garden on the first floor, and the upper levels served as bedrooms and apartments.

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A Vibrant Gay Community in the Bowery

Brothels were rampant in the Bowery. And this one was no different than all the other salons, save for the fact the prostitutes were men. But not all men who came to this part of the Bowery were there to purchase sex; some simply felt this part of town was a safe space for them. Columbia Hall acted as a community centre for gay men in the 1890s. Many men came here to drink and gamble and never bothered to solicit. They simply enjoyed the familiar company.

The first club for transgender people opened here on the floor above the bar. Inside, transwomen could come and dress as themselves without fear of what anyone else would think. They were among friends. Columbia Hall was also home to some of the first drag acts in the city. “The Bowery Queen,” was one such drag performer who made a name for herself and opened the door for many others to follow.

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Paresis Hall

Despite many in the Bowery looking the other way, there were many a religious protest against the tavern’s operation. Homophobic groups called the building “Paresis Hall.” Paresis was a condition which caused brain inflammation and sometimes insanity, usually brought on by syphilis. Syphilis was a disease many incorrectly thought only gay men carried. And nicknaming the building after the disease was another way the religious zealots could attack the character of those who would visit. “Paresis Hall” couldn’t escape public condemnation forever. And after only nine years of operation, it closed down in 1899. Today, the building remains a memory to one of the first gay communities in New York City.

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Merchant’s House Museum

Walk north one block and turn west down East 4th street. At #29 East 4th Street stands an old brick mansion which was once home to wealthy merchant Seabury Tredwell. Tredwell built his home here in 1832. The regal manor starkly contrasts with the Bowery’s gritty nature. But a great example of the kinds of houses that were being built in the area before the El Train drove the neighbourhood into a downward spiral. Despite its age, if you walked inside, you’d find almost the entire house unchanged. This is because the house is now a city-owned museum, the Merchant’s House Museum.

The Merchant’s House Museum‘s aim is to present to the public the personal lives of an upper-class family living in New York in the 19th century. The house preserves incredible examples of surviving architecture from the period as well as hundreds of personal objects, furniture and photographs from the Tredwell family. If you have an opportunity to visit the museum, it is a real contrast to the lives of the

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Gertrude Tredwell

Supposedly, one descendant, in particular, doesn’t like when you touch her things. This would be the Tredwell’s youngest daughter, Gertrude. Gertrude was a spinster who lived out her entire Iife inside the house. She was born in 1840 and died in 1933. Gertrude had seven siblings, two brothers and five sisters. While the rest of her family grew up and had families of their own, Gertrude remained alone. Gertrude had one real chance at love, but sadly, the affair was broken up by her Episcopalian father. He refused to let Gertrude marry a poor Irishman. Gertrude’s sad fate supposedly inspired Henry James‘ novel Washington Square Park. The book is about a woman whose father attempts to thwart her romance with another man.

In her lonely spinsterhood, she developed an angry and eccentric personality. She seemed to care only for the house, with nothing else left in her own life to care for. She was constantly obsessing with ensuring the house maintained its elegance, despite falling into financial ruin.

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The Ghost of Tredwell Manor

After Gertrude’s death, the house was passed down to her cousin. The house was set to be foreclosed, and all the contents sold off to pay their debts. But Gertrude’s intrepid cousin had another idea. She was able to sell the house and all its contents to the city. The city was amazed by the preservation of the house and all its memorabilia inside. All they had to do was slap a few plaques on the walls and charge admission, and the museum was up and running.

Since becoming a museum, the staff have seen the ghostly figure of Gertrude herself roaming the halls. She loves nothing more than making loud, irritating noises whenever “her” objects are moved. See if you can spot her in the window, peering down on the street. She is often seen looking out, watching over her beloved home.

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Germania Fire Insurance Building

Head back to Cooper street, where Cooper streets officially become the Bowery at the intersection of East 4th Street. At #357 Bowery, we can find the exterior facade of the old Germania Fire Insurance Building. One of the most iconic aspects of this building is the haphazard-looking stacks of iron staircases piled up on the facade of the brick building. The Germania Fire Insurance Building was built in 1870 by prominent German-American architect Carl Pfeiffer. In the 1870s, fires were one of the most common causes of destruction in New York City. The dense urban environment meant that if one house caught fire, it would quickly spread throughout the block. So ensuring your properties against fire was BIG business.

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Little Germany

The Germania Fire Insurance Company represented the growing number of German immigrants who came to New York in the 19th century. Back then, Division Street, east of the Bowery, was called “Little Germany” or Kleindeutschland. By 1840, over 20,000 German immigrants were living in this part of town.

When the Germania Fire Insurance company was building their new corporate office, they wanted to make it in the centre of Little Germany. And while all the official architectural plans stated the building was for business use only, they had always secretly planned to use the building for some tenement housing.

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Germania Fire Insurance Building Architecture

One of the aspects of the building that makes it so ingenious is the mansard roof and dormer windows. In the 19th century, New York companies were taxed for every additional floor added to a building. But a clever loophole was invented by architects in the creation of the mansard roof. The mansard roof is characterized by two slopes on every side of the roof. The lower slope being considerably steeper than the upper. When you add dormer windows, the mansard roof provides a spacious and economical attic storey. Essentially a livable space, but listed as an attic, that wouldn’t fall under taxable laws.

Tenement Housing

In 1870, the city census found seven families living inside the building. Each of these families would typically be made up of at least ten people. Tenement flats were also called “railroad flats” because the long, narrow apartments were linked together like the cars of a train. This resulted in windowless apartments. Without windows, the apartments were also without access to fresh air. This, combined with the cramped spaces, led them to become wrought with diseases.

Eventually, things got so bad that the Tenement House Act of 1901 was passed. It mandated strict enforcement inside buildings like these to ensure tenants had air and light and access to running water.

PS General Slocum

As we walk down the block toward our next stop, let’s take a moment to consider why, despite the growing German immigrant population in the 19th century, this part of town now lacks almost any memory of their presence. What caused this exodus of German immigrants from the Bowery? The answer might surprise you. And it surrounds the story of the city’s worst maritime disaster: the PS General Slocum Fire.

The PS General Slocum was a sidewheel passenger steamboat built in 1891. Over the years, it took passengers to and from Manhattan, across the East River, towards Brooklyn and Long Island. But the owners were reckless and didn’t keep up with its maintenance or address rising safety concerns. On June 15, 1904, the boat was carrying 1,342 members of St. Mark’s Evangelical Lutheran Church. The members took a yearly excursion to a park on Long Island, where they hosted a celebratory church picnic. Almost all of the church members were German American immigrants from Little Germany. And most were women and children. The men unable to attend as they had to stay behind to work.

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The Fire Breaks Out

Shortly after departure, a fire started in the Lamp Room. Perhaps caused by a dropped match. The moment the fire broke out, the boat was cruising through the hauntingly named “Hell’s Gate” along the East River. Coincidence or curse? You decide.

The lamp room was filled with straw, oily rags, and lamp oil. A perfect environment for a fire to be fueled and grow out of control in mere minutes. A 12-year-old boy spotted the fire, and tried to warn the captain. But the captain tossed him aside, not believing the boy and not wanting to cause a delay. It took staff just over ten minutes to realize the full extent of the fire. And by then, it was too late.

Beaching on North Brother Island

The boat was sinking quickly and the captain tried steering it towards North Brother Island. In the hopes people could jump off and swim to shore. But safety standards hadn’t been met for some time on the old paddlewheel. Women who grabbed nearby life preservers found that they fell apart in their hands. Having rotted away with neglect. Mothers took any lifejackets still intact and strapped them to their children. But when they tossed their children into the water to escape the inferno, they watched in horror as they sunk like rocks. The lifejackets proving completely useless.

Most of these immigrants didn’t know how to swim. This, combined with their heavy wool clothing that absorbed water like mad, made it almost impossible for anyone to escape. Even if they were only a few meters from shore. Twenty minutes after the fire had first broken out, the flames had engulfed the vessel. As the fire burned, it weakened the overloaded starboard section of the hurricane deck. The deck collapsed, killing the 100-500 people who were still stuck on the deck.

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Victims of the PC Slocum Fire

1,021 people either burned to death or drowned in the disaster. When survivors returned to their homes in Little Germany, the street was deadly silent. Entire families had died, leaving the streets a ghost town. Some men who had lost their entire families wandered aimlessly around the empty streets of Kleindeutschland. The survivors couldn’t handle the trauma left by this silence, and most moved uptown to escape the memories left there.

The Bowery Hotel

Our next stop is past East 3rd Street at the fanciful Bowery Hotel. The Bowery Hotel is today one of the most luxurious hotels in the city. It’s often the top choice for visiting celebrities of all sorts. But back in 1875, the building was originaly designed for the Dry Dock Savings Bank. Back then, the Bowery was still in its period of middle-class growth. And with that speculation that the area would rival 5th Avenue, wealthy enterprises were scooping up real estate all over the Bowery.

The building’s design plans were stunningly impressive. And the bank looked more like a regal castle looming over the rest of the street. The Dry Dock Savings Bank was open here until 1992, when the bank went bust. The building was sold off in 2000, and the new owners went about transforming it into the modern-day Bowery Hotel.

Ghosts of the Bowery Hotel

Back when the building was a bank, no one stayed overnight. But once it was converted into a hotel, nightly sightings of ghosts were commonplace here. Accounts of strange occurrences from almost day one of its inceptions as a hotel was reported. The most common sighting is located inside the elevator. Around 1 am, the elevator is known to erratically move up and down, despite no buttons being pressed.

Guests have also seen a ghostly woman sitting inside their hotel room when they enter late at night. Only to disappear moments later. Then there are the bar ghosts, who angrily knock drinks out of people’s hands. But not all are as vengeful, some spirits love nothing more than chatting up the customers. Perhaps just looking for someone to talk to.

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New York Marble Cemetery

But why would this hotel be home to so many spirits? The reason lies behind where the building was constructed. Long before the bank was built, this land was used to house the New York Marble Cemetery. The cemetery was built in 1830 as the first non-sectarian cemetery in New York. The cemetery was unlike many others being built at the time, as there were no gravestones, only marble vaults. Bodies were being buried deep underground. The reason for this was the horrible outbreak of yellow fever. It was thought that by burying bodies deep underground and sealing the tombs, would help prevent the spread of the disease. Over 2000 bodies were buried in the Marble Cemetery. While the eastern parts of the New York Marble Cemetery can still be visited today, the graves on the western end were lost below the newly constructed Dry Dock Savings Bank.

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Bouwerie Lane Theatre

A few doors down, at #330 Bowery, standing tall and elegant on the corner, we find the old Bouwerie Lane Theatre. The building was initially constructed in 1879 as the Atlantic Savings Bank. It was designed in a French Second Empire style by Henry Engelbert. And despite looking like it has been carved out of stone, the building is a rare example of cast iron employed to appear as raw material.

When the Atlantic Savings Bank collapsed, the burgeoning German community purchased the building and opened the German Exchange Bank. With the downfall of the Bowery, the German bank closed its doors as well. It wasn’t until the 1960s that the building was converted into an off-Broadway theatre named the Bouwerie Lane Theatre. The theatre remained open for 30 years but closed in 2006. Today it is a memory of the past. The upper floors have been turned into a private mansion-apartment, and the ground levels are used for retail.

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il Buco Restaurant

Let’s make a quick detour east along Bond Street to #47 Bond which still houses il Buco Restaurant to this day. This part of New York in the 1840s was better known as the Red Light District. And like any good Red Light District, it was frequented by many lonely writers. And among them was none other than famed horror writer Edgar Allan Poe. Poe had first discovered the restaurant because his good friend Marie lived in the apartments above #47 Bond Street. Poe would frequently come by to visit Marie when his wife was sick. Searching for solace and comfort in the arms of another woman. But he also found comfort in the tavern below.

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Down in the basement cellar was hidden away popular speakeasy. This dark and eerie 200-year-old cellar went on to inspire the setting for Poe’s novel, The Cask of Amontillado. His novel wasn’t set in New York but rather in an unnamed city in Italy. The story of the Cask of Amontillado is all about a man taking revenge. The “hero” of the story believes one of his best friends had wronged him. So, to take his revenge, he entombs the ex-friend in a basement cellar, just like the one inside il Buco.

In real life, Poe was constantly fighting with his literary rivals. And perhaps The Cask of Amontillado was a way for Poe to release some pent-up anger. Owners of the current restaurant claim that the ghost of Edgar Allan Poe still comes back to the cellar from time to time. Staff often find half-empty yet sealed bottles of wine in the basement cellar. As if a ghostly apparition came back to have another glass for the road.

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#31 Bond Street

A few doors down, at #31 Bond Street, is an old brick apartment complex. The building is stunning, with gorgeous multicoloured brickwork, various arched and square windows and, the best part, a series of detailed stone friezes decorating the facade. In the 1850s, the building was owned by a wealthy dentist named Harvey Burdell. Burnell was murdered right here, in this very building. But long after his death, his name would still be plastered on the cover of newspapers due to the torrid nature of the crime.

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Harvey Burdell & Emma Cunningham

Burnell owned the entire building. He used the lower levels as his office space and primary residence, and the rest he rented out. Unfortunately for him, in the summer of 1855, a woman named Emma Cunningham moved into #31 Bond Street as one of his tenants. Burnell fell quickly for the widowed Cunningham. All those who witnessed the goings on inside the townhouse said that Cunningham acted like she was already Burnell’s wife. Despite the two only dating for a short period of time. She hired his maids, ordered around the workers, made him meals and brought them down to his suite. She would even dine with him on certain occasions.

The Murder of Dr. Burnell

But this was not a happy relationship as the neighbours frequently reported hearing shouting matches between the go. The arguments seemed to constantly surround the marriage proposal that Cunningham was expecting from Burnell. One which he never “officially” would give. The rumours surrounding their relationship were lush. Some claimed that she had fallen pregnant with his baby, but he forced her to have an abortion. Others argued that Burnell himself performed the abortion right here in his office.

Whatever the clashes between the two, it all came to a head on January 31st, 1857. Burnell’s body was discovered in his home office. He had been strangled and brutally stabbed 15 times. Almost as soon as his body arrived at the coroner’s office, Emma Cunningham arrived, claiming that she was his wife. And the sole inheritor of his $100,000 fortune and the new owner of #31 Bond Street.

The Trial of Emma Cunningham

Emma was not at the crime scene, and police had yet to inform her of her death. But she seemed to already know what happened. Raising immediate suspicions. Police arrested her, but it was her trial that would spin the media into a frenzy. So many allegations about her were almost too juicy not to have been an invention of the newspapers themselves. Neighbours claimed she was sleeping with her fellow border John J. Eckel. They even reported that Cunningham was forcing her daughter into sleeping with other men in the building.

During the trial, Cunningham claimed to be pregnant with Burnell’s baby, but many suspected she was stuffing her dresses. After nine months, she showed up at trial with a baby in tow. But it was later revealed to have been another woman’s baby, and Cunningham was never pregnant. Instead, she had purchased the child for $1,000. Bought from a poor woman she found living in squalor in the Bowery.

Emma Goes Free

Despite revealing these fictions, Burnell’s attorney Mr. Clinton, couldn’t convince a jury of Cunningham’s guilt. There was no physical evidence linking her to the crime. Cunningham was acquitted after only two hours of jury deliberation. But she was guilty to the public, who had been following along with all the details of the crime and case in the newspaper. And the public had just seen this woman get away with murder.

Cunningham was left penniless after Burnell’s death. But instead of receiving his fortunes, she was forced by public pressure to flee the city. The case of Harvey Burdell’s murder remains officially “unsolved,” and it is perhaps for this reason that the ghost of Burdell is thought to still haunt this building today.

#21 Bleecker Street

Walk one block south along Lafayette Street, then west on Bleeker to make your way back to Bowery Street. If you’re hungry, be sure to stop at Levain Bakery along Lafayette Street, as they sell some of the best baked goods in town! This little stretch of the Bowery is home to some beautiful examples of Federal-style row houses. They are virtually untouched by the ages and are a gorgeous example of what these side streets would have looked like in the heyday of the Bowery. 

Bleecker Street & Bowery

Make a stop at the corner of Bleecker Street and Bowery. It was here, in 1905, on these darkened streets, that Thomas “Eat ‘Em Up Jack” McManus, the toughest man in New York, was murdered. McManus had a burgeoning career as a boxer. This prizefighting drew the eye of Paul Kelly, leader of the notorious Five Point Gang. Kelly employed McManus as a bouncer for his various criminal establishments. This included our next stop, McGurk’s Suicide Hall.

McManus earned the name “Eat ‘Em Up Jack” by using those fisticuffs to almost literally “eat through” any rowdy customers that came through the doors. His face was reportedly a thing to see as it was covered in welts and scars, and almost all his front teeth were missing. But every new wound only seemed to make him grow stronger.

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Eat ‘Em Up Jack

One night, while working inside Kelly’s Little Naples Café, a rival gang member named Chic Tricker entered the club. Chic Tricker was a member of the Monk Eastman gang. After one too many drinks, he started violently insulting one of the showgirls. McManus threw him out of the bar and even had to draw his pistol after a fight ensued. McManus fired a few shots, but Tricker got away with only a bruised ego. But Tricker wasn’t one to hold grudges lightly. And he swore to get his revenge.

A few days later, Trick’s fellow gang member Sardinia Frank attacked McManus right here on the corner of Bleeker and Bowery. Frank hid a gas pipe wrapped in newspaper and dealt a lethal blow to the top of McManus’ head. The entire ordeal started a colossal battle between the two gangs, each one trying to get revenge other the other. Resulting in blood being spread all across the Bowery. So if you see a big burly spectre of a man lurking in the shadows, you might have spotted the ghost of Eat ‘Em Up Jack himself.

CBGB

At #315 Bowery you’ll find a small memory dedicated to the famous CBGB club which once stood here. CBGB was a legendary punk rock club opened in 1973 by Hilly Kristal. It made the history book as the birthplace of punk rock. Bands like the Ramones, Patti Smith, Talking Heads, Blondie, Joan Jett, Lou Reed, AC/DC, Green Day, Guns’ n Roses and Pearl Jam all graced the stage. You weren’t truly punk rock until you’d played at CBGB.

Sadly, the club closed in 2006 after Hilly lost his battle with cancer. Patti Smith closed the club with its penultimate concert on October 15, 2006. Funnily enough, for a punk rock club that was repulsed by the mainstream, its doors now house (of all things) a John Varvatos clothing store. But if you walk right up to the front windows and look down at the cement below, you can still make out the words “CGBG ’73” etched into the ground. A lasting memory of the music made within these walls.

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McGurk’s Salon

In the 1970s, a highly controversial effort was made to “disperse” the homeless population in the Bowery. Afterwards, the neighbourhood found itself slowly going through a process of revitalization and gentrification. And while many of the historic buildings along the Bowery were preserved, others met the eventual fate of demolition. And it is at one of these new developments, we find ourselves today searching for a ghost from the Bowery’s past.

#295 Bowery

The rather dull glass condominium at #295 Bowery street stands atop the remains of the once-infamous McGurk’s Salon. Back in the 1900s, McGurk’s Salon was a tavern more aptly known by the public as McGurk’s “Suicide Hall.” The building was originaly built in 1863 and originally served as housing for soldiers returning from the Civil War. Most of these men suffered greatly in the war and returned horribly changed men. The salon on the first floor served the seedy clientele the neighbourhood was starting to fill with. But as seedy as the clients were, the staff were no better. Bartenders frequently filled drinks with chloral hydrate. This would cause patrons to pass out, so the staff could easily steal whatever money was left in their wallets. Further taking advance of these poor men.

Suicide Hall

With so many veterans in this part of town, there was also a high demand for prostitution. The owner of McGruk’s saw this as an opportunity for money-making and opened a large brothel above the salon. Life was rough for the women who worked at McGurk’s Salon. In 1899 alone, there were six suicides in the building and seven failed attempts. Most of these were by women jumping from the upper floors of the building. Others took carbolic acid, a popular elixir of death during the Victorian era. All these deaths lead to the public nicknaming the salon the “Suicide Hall.”

McGurk’s Saloon Ghosts

While the salon itself may have disappeared, replaced by newer, flashier modern buildings, the ghosts of the salon remain. Look up as you pass by, as you might see the jumping ghosts that haunt the building. There is also the ghost of Annie Moore, a local prostitute that worked inside Suicide Hall. Annie was brutally murdered in a way newspapers referred to as a “Ripper Style” murder. Her throat was slashed, and her body was mutilated.

Police did little to find her killer. But there was one man that locals thought had to be her killer. He was known as “Old Scratch” and was a frequent customer at McGurk’s. He would sit at the bar and chat with anyone who would give him the time of day about the details of Annie’s murder. Details so specific, not mentioned in the paper, that everyone had to assume he was her killer. But no one ever followed up on the rumours, and her death remained “unsolved.” To this day, her ghost has been known to roam the streets outside McGurk’s. Perhaps waiting for Old Scratch to return and seek her revenge.

The Houston Bowery Mural

Just around the corner, down Houston Street, is an artistic landmark of the neighbourhood; the Houston Bowery Mural. In 2006, real estate developer Tony Goldman invited contemporary artists from around the world to put their artwork on display outside his building. Over the years, the street art on the wall changes with the seasons. With something new gracing the wall every few months. Adding a vibrant new work of art for locals and tourists alike to admire as they pass by.

Sammy’s Bowery Follies

Passed Houston Street, along the Bowery, beside the awning of what is now a swanky plant-based restaurant is where, in the 1930s, you’d have found a dingy dive bar named Sammy’s Bowery Follies. The legendary club was named after the owner Sammy Fuchs. Fuchs opened the bar on the Bowery to serve the thirsty vagrants that frequented the many missions and flophouses along this stretch of slums. Generally, his clientele was down on their luck, homeless, broke and often running from the law. Characters aplenty!

But in the 1940s, Sammy’s became somewhat of a tourist destination. A shock to hear, I know. What on earth would a tourist want to come here for? To the epicentre of the so-called “Bowery Bums”? Well, it was for those very characters that frequented the tavern. The upper classes of New York City were tired of their dreary, squeaky-clean, and personality-less neighbourhood cocktail bars. So they would come down to the Bowery to gawk at the lower classes. Like they were watching a play, live theatre on the streets.

The Gay 90s Cabaret

While the idea of the rich getting pleasure and entertainment from others’ misfortune is beyond offensive, Fuchs saw it as an opportunity. He transformed his club into somewhat of a cabaret. Sammy built a literal stage inside and hired vaudeville preforms to further exaggerate the rampant rumours about the dangerous ol’ Bowery. He themed the restaurants after the “Gay 90s” (that’s 1890s for you young people).

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Busloads of tourists would arrive from New York, Britain and beyond to watch the singers belt out show tunes and act out comedic skits. You could have a drink with a “sailor” in a damp leather saloon booth and hear all about his torrid stories. Most of which were clearly fabricated for the entertainment of the visitors. When Sammy died in 1969, the bar closed its doors, and it remains empty to this day. A black iron gate is the only thing making this historic destination along the Bowery.

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#222 Bowery

At #222 Bowery is the last remaining YMCA branch that dates back to the 1880s. The Young Men’s Institute (as it was called back then) was a community space where young men of the Bowery could come to seek physical, intellectual, and spiritual health. The building was designed by Bradford L. Gilbert in high Queen Ann style. The iconic recessed metal-enframed windows, painted a stunning dark green, have beautiful wreath boughs hanging from below as decorations. The windows are separated by giant pilasters with ornate cornices on top. At the top of the singular dormer window, you can see the old terra-cotta carving with the date “1884” engraved on the building.

A fantastical building that was meant to draw in curious young men from the Bowery. Inside, they would find a gymnasium, bowling alley, library, entertainment hall, and even rooftop garden! The idea being if these men were inside having fun, they were off the streets, not causing trouble.

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William S. Burroughs Bunker

In 1932 the YMCA moved out of the neighbourhood, and the building became a residential space for artists. The converted open-plan apartments attracted artists from all over the city. Mark Rothko, Andy Warhol, Allan Ginsberg and Roy Lichtenstein were all frequent guests and visitors to the old YMCA. But it was in 1974 that famed writer William S. Burroughs moved in. He lived here for almost ten years and called the space his “bunker.” No doubt his time spent in the Bowery during those vice-ridden days influenced his works and his formation of the Beat Generation.

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The Bowery Mission

Across the street from the old YMCA is another gorgeous architectural wonder, the Bowery Mission. You can spot the building from a mile away by its iconic red entry doors. As the Bowery was becoming more and more of a health hazard for the city, it was essential to set up assistance for those living in these terrible conditions. Gangs, so-called “degraded women,” and drunkards roamed the street with abundance. With nowhere to go, they often got into fights, and violence ran rampant across the bloody mile. Back then, the Bowery was commonly referred to as “Skid Row” or “Street of No Return.”

Formation of the Mission

In 1876, the Bowery Mission was built at #227 Bowery Street by architect William Jose. The building was designed in an English-inspired Tudor-Revival style. Built to resemble a traditional British Inn. Perhaps harkening back to memories of the heyday of the British Empire for many immigrants. The gorgeous curved keystones above the green-painted windows are my favourite part of the building’s facade. Inside, there is even a medieval English-inspired chapel with a beautiful two-storey organ. This church was of particular importance. You might have noticed that aside from the church at the start of this tour, not a single religious institute can be found along the Bowery. This was because most people thought the community was lost and beyond redemption. But the people at the Bowery Mission thought otherwise.

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But the most impressive part of the building, which still stands today, iare the stained glass windows above the first-floor entrance. The windows depict the parabole of the prodigal son. The inscription below reads: “When he came to himself, he said I will arrive and go to my father. He saw him and had compassion. My son was dead and is alive again.” The windows were meant to be so beautiful that they would attract the eyes of those outsiders and make them curious enough to want to come inside to see what the Mission was all about. To encourage these unfortunates to get off the street and seek help.

The Mission’s Mission

The Mission has provided food, shelter, clothing, job opportunities, medical assistance and rehabilitation for millions of men for over 140 years. It had to expand into the next-door Federal-style townhouse in 1830 as the need was assistance was so great. The Mission’s breadline was one of the most famous images of the Bowery after the great depression. 2,000 breakfasts were served every morning. A Bowery Mission breakfast consisted of a large bread roll and a cup of coffee. Despite the fortunes of the Bowery changing drastically over the last 100 years, the Mission continues to service the unhoused people in the Lower East Side to this day.

The Bowery House Hotel

At #220 Bowery are the now-shuttered windows of the Bowery House Hotel. But long before it was the Bowery House Hotel, it was better known as the Prince Hotel, built in 1927. The Prince Hotel was originally created as temporary lodging for embattled soldiers returning from World War II. The rooms here were tiny, bunks stacked together to fit as many as 12 men into one room.

This was originaly thought not to be an issue, as it was, after all, only meant to be a temporary stopping point for these men before they got their lives together and moved out. But for many men who returned from war, shattered and shaken, they would never leave. They were seduced by the Bowery and its den of sin. They could drown their sorrows in the taverns and get their needs met by the working girls in the brothels. Skid Row was the last stop on the road for many of these poor soldiers, and today, there are reports that their heartbroken ghosts remain. Haunted by the memories, still trying to rid themselves of their past along the streets of the Bowery.

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Alabama Flophouse

One of the iconic establishments across the Bowery in the late 19th century were the so-called “flophouses.” A flophouse was a place that offered very low-cost lodging and provided simply a space to sleep and minimal amenities. By 1890, there were approximately 9,000 homeless men, and some women, living in the Bowery. Most were alcoholics and gambling addicts who could easily find their vices met on the Bowery. With the expansion of the El Train, the light was further blocked out above the Bowery. Therefore, any business trying to work in the literal darkness could get away with murder. Or, at the very least, with other sinful immoralities.

One of the longest-run flophouses in the Bowery was the Alabama House. The flophouse was opened in 1889 and was amazingly designed by architect James E. Ware. Even today, you can appreciate the unbelievable architecture incorporated into the multi-purpose five-story building. Romanesque and Queen Anne elements like terra cotta friezes, ornamental cornices, rounded bullnose brick corners and unique pilaster capitals all decorate the exterior of the building. The facade’s beauty a harsh contrast to the awful living conditions inside.

Flophouses

“Flophouses” were named as such because accommodation was little more than a person-sized piece of wood on the ground where someone could literally “flop” down for the night. Usually, these “beds” cost about five cents but were little more than a wooden stand above the ground. You were lucky to get a dirty piece of cloth to use as your blanket. The five-cent cost of your stay is also why this kind of establishment was called “a dime house.”

Crime in the Flophouse

But the clientele at these places left much to be desired. Over the years, the Alabama Flophouse would see police raids repeatedly, with many of their patrons being tramped off to jail. A meagre house painter was murdered by fellow lodgers Emma and William Wilson. The pair tricked him into following Emma down a dark alley thinking she was a woman of the night. Instead, they stabbed and robbed him for the little he had, which was probably little more than the five cents he carried to pay for his bed. Lodgers Carl Williams, Herman Kas and David Weinberg were all arrested for burglary. And during prohibition, Fred Anderson was caught bootlegging gallons of coloured alcohol he made inside the Alabama Flophouse bathroom. No doubt, if this building could talk, the stories it would tell.

By 1967, the owners of Alabama converted the old flophouse into rental spaces for artists. Today the apartments are still for rent, and while they have been upgraded with modern-day conveniences, they still feature some of the iconic original architecture inside. One can only imagine how expensive these apartments now cost to rent. A shocking transformation from their previous life as dime house ruins.

#210 Bowery

On our way to the next location, make a quick stop outside #210 Bowery Street. Amazingly, the building has been transformed into a sleek, black-painted high-end condominium. But in the 19th century, this house served as one of the many Dime Museums in New York.

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Dime Museums were designed as centers for entertainment for the working class. Unlike the upper classes museums filled with fine art, these “museums” exhibited sensational freak shows. But dime museums were often just a front, and deep within the bowels of the building, you’d find hidden brothels and gambling dens. Here at #210 Bowery, police performed a historic raid in 1883. Inside, they found a gambling den with girls as young as 12 working in the back. An example of the rabid evil that occurred here every day, hidden away behind beautiful facades.

Germania Bank Building

At #190 Bowery stands the unique chamfered corner of the Germania Bank Building. An icon of the neighbourhood. The old bank was built here in 1898, the third location for the Germania Bank, established in 1869 by a group of local German businessmen. As a growing institution, they employed famed German-born architect Marc Eidlitz to build this monument to Beaux-Arts architecture. The granite and brick facade feature rough stonework, an arched entry flanked by Tuscan columns and elaborate copper decorative eaves. While the building remains pretty much as it stood a hundred years ago, sadly, it has remained derelict, covered in graffiti. Awaiting its next life, most likely a condominium space.

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The Bowery Ballroom

Just off of the Bowery, east along Delancey Street, you’ll find one of the city’s most historic music venues: the Bowery Ballroom. Despite not being the most modern venue in the city, it certainly had a cult status and playing here adds a certain cache to your repertoire!

Long before the Bowery Ballroom was a glint in the eye of the musicians, the original building was created in 1929 to house a high-end shoe store and haberdashery. But when the great depression hit and Wall Street crashed, the store quickly went out of business and shuttered its doors. With no one clamouring to renovate the space, now located in the slums of the Bowery, the building was left vacant until 1998.

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The Transformation of the Bowery Ballroom

Michael Swier, the co-founder of the famous newspaper the Village Voice and LA Weekly, bought up the property with an ingenious vision for it. He wanted to create a new music venue that didn’t just sound great but looked great as well. They spent a fortune to ensure the sound quality was perfect. And the new owners went to great lengths to preserve the historic parts of the building. Including the 84-year-old bronze rails. Once used by factory workers, the rails now served as the balcony on the second floor. With a capacity of 575 people, shows here are an intimate affair. If you have the chance to see a concert here when you’re in town, you certainly won’t be disappointed!

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Sohotel

Located on the corner of Bowery and Broome Street, you can spot the neon lights of the Sohotel. This hotel is the oldest hotel on the entire strip, opened in 1805! And throughout the over 200 years of its operation, it has had almost as many names. It was first the Military and Civic Hotel, then the Westchester. Then it became the Occidental, going on to be called the Pioneer. Now, it is known only as the Sohotel. Despite all the different names, the hotel itself hasn’t changed much in appearance over the years.

Hauntings inside the Sohotel

And any building with such a long life along the Bowery comes with its fair share of ghosts. The first occurrence that many believe started the slew of hauntings was the rash suicide of John P. Mount. Mount was a dry goods buyer for the Crawford & Simpson company. He had been a loyal employee for 20 years, so it was the shock of his life when he was unexpectantly fired. Mount was reportedly a very impulsive person and must have been thoroughly distraught after losing his job.

He checked into the hotel, and only a few minutes after leaving the front desk, the sound of a pistol firing was heard from his room in #103. People who stay on that floor report feeling cold even when the heat is on. And the lights are known to go on and off by themselves late at night. Perhaps the ghost of poor John Mount is visiting the hotel once more.

Bowery Savings Bank

Continuing along, be sure to take a moment to study the grand exterior of the old Bowery Savings Bank at #130 Bowery Street. The Bowery Savings Bank opened its headquarters here in 1834. It chose this spot as its new command post back when the Bowery was considered one of the most illustrious new neighbourhoods in town. It was on the cusp of middle-class status, just as the El train was being built. Before they knew the grim reality that the El train would carry along its tracks.

Stanford White, a notable architect who also designed the famous Washington Square Park arch, built the Bowery Savings Bank. Although the idea of using classical Roman-style Corinthian columns for the bank’s exterior seems commonplace now, this initial design would set the trend for banks to use this style for years to come!

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#139 Hester Street

One block south, make a quick stop east along Hester Street. At #139 Hester Street was where the beginnings of one of New York’s most elaborate jailbreak stories would occur. On September 29, 1892, carpenter Frank G. Paulsen was visited late at night by a familiar face. Frank W. Roehl had met Paulsen a few times in the local salons. And as German immigrants, they got along swiftly. But Paulsen was confused by the late-night visit, as the two weren’t that close. Soon after arriving, neighbours reported hearing screams. When next-door neighbour William Burns arrived on the scene, he was horrified to find the mutilated body of Paulsen lying on the floor. He appeared to have been hatched up with an axe.

When the police arrived, they found that Paulsen was missing his two gold watches that all his neighbours knew he never took off. Soon after, there were reports of a very drunk German man causing a scene in one of the local bars, who was also trying to peddle a few gold watches. When the police found Roehl, he was drunk out of his mind. And when they searched his body, they found a bloody axe in his coat pocket. 

Escape from Sing Sing

Roehl was tried for the murder, and when he was promptly found guilty, he was sent off to Sing Sing Prison, better known as the “House of Death.” Roehl was a marble worker and had been previously sent to Sing Sing, but not as a prisoner. But as an employee. He was sent to work on various stonework inside the prison. As such, he knew the prison’s layout well.

With the help of his new roommate, a notorious murderer, the two plotted their escape. Roehl knew of an escape hatch on the roof, and thanks to some hurricane-like weather conditions, the two managed to escape into the night, as they could not be seen by the tower’s watchmen.

The Discovery of Roehl’s Body

A warrant for their arrest was put out along with a hefty finder’s fee. One morning, while bringing in his lines on the Hudson river, fisherman Frederick Cronk noticed a body floating in his net, wearing Sing Sing’s iconic prisoner’s uniforms. Knowing about the reward, he immediately called the police. When they brought the body out of the water, they found it was none other than Frank Roehl. But he hadn’t drowned. Instead, he was found with a bullet hole in his head.

Days later, his roommate’s body also washed up on shore with a similar bullet wound in the head. Police could only determine it must have been a murder-suicide that brought about the untimely end of these two murderers. Despite being convicted of Paulsen’s murder, Roehl never completed his sentence, and it is perhaps for this reason that the tortured ghost of Paulsen is known to haunt the streets of Hester Street today.

#129 Mulberry Street

From here, let’s walk west along Hester Street towards Mulberry Street. In the 18th century, Mulberry Street was called “Mulberry Bend” as the road bent to veer around the Collect Pond’s wetlands. The name came from the fact that the area was once home to a large patch of mulberry trees that lined the land. But don’t let the idea of a tree-lined street confuse you, this part of town epitomized the worst of the city’s slums. The little lane also went by the name “Slaughterhouse Street,” as it was here where the slaughterhouse of Nicholas Bayard was located. 

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Rent here was cheap, and slumlords leased out overcrowded tenement houses to the vulnerable new immigrants who arrived in the city. Throngs of people lined the roads, and vendors crowded the narrow streets. Many of these new immigrants were of Italian heritage. In the 19th century, the area quickly became the heart of Manhattan’s Little Italy. And later in the 20th century, this area of town was one of the best places to run into members of New York’s Italian Mafia.

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Mulberry’s Mafia

The mafia was obsessed with preserving family and history, so it seems fitting that they would make their home along Mulberry streets. Some prominent mafia families have lived in homes here since the 1890s. And many of the businesses that line the streets were mafia owned. And the ones that weren’t were definitely under their thumb. Some were even required to pay a monthly stipend to get protection from the mob.

“Crazy Joe” Gallo 

In 1972, the notorious mob boss “Crazy Joe” Gallo was gunned down inside Umberto’s Clam House. Gallo was here with his family, celebrating his 43rd birthday. And it would surely be a birthday to remember. Four gunmen entered the dining room during the seafood course and shot twenty rounds into Gallo. To protect his family, Gallo stumbled after the gunmen, mortally wounded into the street and collapsed. And it was right here, beneath our feet, outside the restaurant, that he died. His ghost is still known to haunt the restaurant, perhaps upset he never got to finish that birthday dinner.

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Citizens Savings Bank

Heading back to the Bowery, make your way to the old Citizens Savings Bank on the corner of Canal Street and the Bowery. From here, you can look across Canal Street towards the grand arched entrance to the Manhattan street bridge. The best view of the Beaux-Arts style Citizens Savings Bank is along the Bowery. From here, you can best appreciate the giant arched windows that were once on either side of the bank. Back in the day, these would have let a tremendous amount of light into the building and stepping inside would have been a heavenly experience.

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The stonework was carved in a classic style with Doric columns and pilasters. This classical design was meant to give investors a sense of stability. On the top of the facade is a large, wreathed clock. Sitting atop the clock is a great eagle, flanked on either side by two seated figures. The one on the left is a Native American, and on the right, we see a sailor. Today, in keeping with its heritage, the building is occupied by a new branch of HSBC.

Bull’s Head Tavern

At #50 Bowery Street, we can find the swanky Hotel 50 Bowery, but if we take ourselves back to 1750, it was here that we would have found the old Bull’s Head Tavern. The tavern had long been nothing more than a barn for the cattle market, a literal stock market for local slaughterhouses. There was also a dog and bear fighting pit out back. And the smoky, dimly lit tavern grew around these seedy dens as a place for men to drink and gamble.

But, in November 1783, the Bull’s Head Tavern would enter the history books as it was here that General George Washington established his temporary headquarters on Evacuation Day. After the war, the tavern was converted into a butcher shop for Henry Astor to sell meat from the many slaughterhouses in the area. But when the slaughterhouses closed down, so did Astor’s shop, and the original building was lost to time. But history remembers its importance.

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Bowery Theatre

At #46 Bowery Street, you can now find Joe’s Shanghai restaurant. But for over 80 years, this was the spot where you could have found the old Bowery Theatre. The original building was named New York Theatre and was designed in an opulent Neoclassical design. The theatre seated over 3,500 people making it the biggest theatre in the United States. It was a superior beauty and home to ballets, operas, and high dramas. Sadly, just two years after opening, the theatre burnt down in 1828. 

When it reopened, it was no longer home to the European types of theatre that the middle and upper classes demanded. Instead, to match the changing nature of the Bowery, it was the place to go and see American nativist productions. These populist plays featured blood and guts melodramas which were popular with the rowdy masses. This also included the first production of racist blackface minstrel shows like the debut of “Jumping Jim Crow.” But it wasn’t just modern-day viewers that looked down on these types of productions; the ghosts of the theatre were clearly in opposition to the new productions. The theatre burned down four times in 17 years. Fires were a massive problem in New York, but four fires in a relatively short time was unheard of. Almost as if the building was cursed.

#40-42 Bowery

Just a few doors down, hidden behind the yellow and white restaurant awnings, are the old brick buildings, which once held the gang headquarters of the Bowery Boys. In the 1850s, these two buildings were the most feared place in town as they served as the rebellious clubhouse for the local gang members.

The Bowery Boys

The Bowery Boys were a nativist, anti-Catholic, and anti-Irish criminal gang. The gang was initially formed as a group of volunteer firemen. These men led relative law-abiding lives serving as tradesmen, mechanics and butchers. Back then, firefighting was a great way to make some money on the side. There were no central city-wide firefighters. Instead, local communities had rogue groups of firefighters. And it was the first group on the scene to put out the fire that got paid. So often, there was fierce competition to be the first on the scene. And with so many fires in the city, this was big money. This was when the firefighters turned gang members, as violence would often break out and deep-rooted rivalries were formed.

Bowery Boys Theatre

The location of their clubhouse next door to the Bowery Theatre was not happenstance. The Bowery Boys loved the theatre and spent almost all their free time inside. They were such famous attendees that often, plays put on inside the theatre were shows about Bowery Boys themselves. Which always got a massive reaction from the audience. Being working men, the Bowery Boys led a slightly more affluent lifestyle, indulging in entertainment. Despite still being defined as lower-class, the Bowery Boys thought their social status in the city was far and away above those of Irish immigrants who lived in the slum of the Five Points. To them, the slums of the Bowery were almost high living.

Dead Rabbits Riot

The Dead Rabbits were their biggest rival, an Irish Gang living inside the notorious Five Points slums. On July 4th, 1857, the Dead Rabbits attacked Bowery Boys Clubhouse. There were more than 1,000 men fought who fought in the riot that broke out. Firearms, clubs, bricks, bats, and stones were used in the attacks. The battle lasted for two days. And the police could do nothing to stop it. The rest of the city took advantage of the police being otherwise occupied, and looting took place across the Bowery.

The official reports claim only eight people were killed, but many think that fellow gang members were carried off by their friends before police arrived and buried in secret. So that the rival gangs would never know how many on the other side were lost. The Bowery Boys kept their clubhouse until the late 19th century when social reform tore apart the Bowery and the Five Points. With the removal and dismantling of the slums, the gang battles of the Five Points armies disappeared.

#18 Bowery

At the corner of Bowery and Pell Street, you can see the fabulous red brick exterior of #18 Bowery. Also called the Edward Mooney House. This is one of the oldest, if not the oldest, row houses in New York, dating back to 1785. Edward Mooney was a wealthy butcher who died in the house in 1800. After his death, the house passed hands many times, serving as a brothel, tavern, general store, restaurant and pool hall. The house still goes by his name despite Mooney not residing here for over 200 years. But perhaps he still remains, his ghost watching over the house in his name to this day.

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Doyers Street

Just down one block is the entrance to Doyers Street. Doyers Street is this seemingly charming winding pedestrian street home to Nom Wah Tea Parlor, the oldest dim sum restaurant in the city! And definitely worth checking out if you’re hungry!

But in the 19th and 20th centuries, Doyer’s Street had a much different atmosphere. The dark, almost hidden away lane was called the “Bloody Angle” and “Murder Alley” by the police officers who patrolled the streets. It was a favoured spot for gang violence, as underground tunnels could be used to escape after any altercations on the street above. 

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The Bloody Angle

During the 19th century, this part of Chinatown was ruled by two rival gangs. And their clashes would often prove to have deadly results. #5 Doyers Street was the original site of the first Chinese language theatre in New York City. In 1905 a fight broke out between members of the Hip Sing Tong gang and the On Leong Tong gang. The shootout inside the theatre resulted in the deaths of three people. According to police, more people have died violently along the Bloody Angle than at any other intersection in America! But don’t let that worry you; the area is much safer after police crackdowns in the 1990s and today’s gentrification of Chinatown.

But it was not just gang violence that haunted these streets. The old tenement houses on Doyers Street were subjected to multiple fires over the years. In 1910, four tenants died, and five were injured when fire swept through the buildings at #15 and #17 Doyers. Years later, in 1939, another fire broke out in the same building, killing seven people. So many deaths in such a small part of town have resulted in this being reported as one of the most haunted streets in the Bowery.

Five Points

Perhaps the most famous area of the Bowery is located just at the bottom tip, where you find the old stomping ground once known only as; the Five Points. The Five Points neighbourhood was originally located at the Orange, Anthony and Cross street intersection. The spot at which they met created five “points,” hence the name. Today you can find Columbus Park standing at the place where you’d have once found the old Five Points slums. Back in the 1800s, this place would have been the roughest area of New York City. Police only dared to venture into this part of town in large groups, as they feared the gangs which ran rampant throughout the small enclave.

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Collect Pond Townhouses

The area had previously been home to the large Collect Pond. But due to the slaughterhouses that would pour their discarded filth into the pond, the wastewater quickly became contaminated and was a severe pollution problem and environmental health hazard. The pond was filled in to quickly solve the problem. But the job was done poorly. The land quickly became unstable and released methane gas from the buried contamination below. Mosquitoes bred in the contaminated standing water, and diseases spread like wildfire.

Despite all this, there was a growing need for housing, so rickety brick and wood houses were built atop the uneven ground. The houses were unstable and would start to lean and sag at all angles. The only people who could imagine wanting to live here were people that could afford nothing else. Immigrants and the poor were preyed upon by greedy landowners to lease these truly uninhabitable houses. Unemployment, prostitution and violent crimes were the highest in this part of town than anywhere else along the Bowery.

Coulthard’s Brewery

For residents, the only way to deal with these horrible living conditions was to drink their days away. Hence the centre point of the neighbourhood became Coulthard’s Brewery, built on Cross Street in 1792. In the early 19th century, the old Brewery was converted into a tenement and boarding house. Originally, 221 people lived in just 35 tiny apartments. Even the cellars of the old Brewery were used to house tenants. But as more people poured into the Five Points, desperate for inexpensive housing, the landowners simply crowded more and more people inside. At one point, there were over 1,000 men, women and children living inside.

According to historian Herbert Asbury, demolition crews found human bones in the cellars and within the walls. In these cramped rooms, infectious diseases, such as cholera, tuberculosis, typhus, malaria and yellow fever, plagued the residents. Many of New York City’s worst epidemics originated in Five Points. Landlords often tried to hide these dead bodies to not be prosecuted by police due to their gross negligence inside and the overcrowding.

Murder Alley

Across the street from the brewery, homes was an aptly named, “Murder Alley.” In the 1850s, there was at least one murder a day here, for over 15 years! Famously, Charles Dickens visited the Five Points on a trip to New York and was horrified by what he saw.

“This is the place: these narrow ways, diverging to the right and left, and reeking everywhere of dirt and filth. . . . Debauchery has made the very houses prematurely old. See how the rotting beams are tumbling down, and how the patched and broken windows seem to scowl dimly, like eyes that have been hurt in drunken frays.”

Charles Dickens

Five Point Gangs

To make matters worse, the area was also home to many of New York’s most violent gangs. They went by names such as the Plug Uglies, Mulberry Men, Kerryonians, the Forty Thieves, the Shirt Tails, and the Chichester’s. In addition to the Dead Rabbits and the Bowery Boys, we heard about before. Joining a gang was a good way to seek protection while also putting yourself in harm’s way.

It’s important to note that originally the idea behind these gangs was not a violent one. Instead, it was a way in which people sought out a community. Irish, Germany, American and Scots wanted to preserve their culture amongst like-minded people. They also found this communal group a means of discussing the crime, poverty and exploitation they often faced. But these gangs hated each other, and large groups of men, incensed by their poor lot in life, can only sit at a boiling point for so long before it all boils over.

Social Reform

After the riots of 1857, the city knew something had to be done about the Five Points slum. So in 1887, the large portion of old tenements at the heart of the Five Points were destroyed. In their place, Columbus Park was built. Today, many people come to the old site of the Five Points after its history came back into the media landscape with Martin Scorsese‘s film Gangs of New York. But the real history of this place is far more interesting and truly an example of the kind of place the Bowery once was. The pretty green trees and playful basketball courts inside Columbus Park are a far cry from the once terrible slums that made this part of town so notorious.

The Five Points is the last stop on our Walking Tour of the Bowery. I hope you’ve enjoyed this thorough guide to one of the most interesting parts of New York City that so many people leave undiscovered. Let me know in the comments what your favourite part of the tour was or what new finds you uncovered along the way!

Happy Travels, Adventurers.

References:

buff, Michael is a New York City history, Amateur Genealogist, a member of the New York law enforcement community His NYC roots go back to 1820 on Water Street, and the Vinegar Hill section in Brooklyn. “1892 Hester Street Homicide.” Lower East Side History Project, December 27, 2017. https://www.leshp.org/blog/hester-street-homicide/. “Daytonian in Manhattan.” Accessed October 24, 2022. https://daytoninmanhattan.blogspot.com/. Atlas Obscura. “Edward Mooney House.” Accessed September 27, 2022. http://www.atlasobscura.com/places/edward-mooney-house. “Ephemeral New York | Chronicling an Ever-Changing City through Faded and Forgotten Artifacts.” Accessed October 24, 2022. https://ephemeralnewyork.wordpress.com/. “Hauntings at The Bowery Hotel – NY Ghosts,” January 3, 2016. https://nyghosts.com/the-bowery-hotel/. Inside Edition. “Is the ‘Most Violent Street in America’ Haunted?,” October 26, 2019. https://www.insideedition.com/is-the-most-violent-street-in-america-haunted-56716. The New York Times. “JOHN P. MOUNT A SUICIDE; He Shoots Himself in a Bowery Hotel, Leaving a Note for His Wife. WORRIED BY BUSINESS AFFAIRS For Twenty Years Connected With the Dry Goods House of Simpson, Crawford & Simpson — The Act Attributed to a Sudden Impulse.,” September 23, 1897, sec. Archives. https://www.nytimes.com/1897/09/23/archives/john-p-mount-a-suicide-he-shoots-himself-in-a-bowery-hotel-leaving.html. Lii, Jane H. “NEIGHBORHOOD REPORT: CHINATOWN; On Pell Street, Only Memories Of a Violent Past.” The New York Times, June 12, 1994, sec. New York. https://www.nytimes.com/1994/06/12/nyregion/neighborhood-report-chinatown-on-pell-street-only-memories-of-a-violent-past.html. Magazine, Smithsonian, and Angela Serratore. “The Desperate Would-Be Housewife of New York.” Smithsonian Magazine. Accessed September 27, 2022. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/the-desperate-would-be-housewife-of-new-york-140748/. onno. “Did You Know This About the Bowery?” Bowery Alliance of Neighbors (blog), June 12, 2016. https://www.boweryalliance.org/did-you-know-this-about-the-bowery/. Sachs, Andrea. “A Cheap Stay, with a Bit of History, in Manhattan.” The Seattle Times, January 21, 2012. https://www.seattletimes.com/life/travel/a-cheap-stay-with-a-bit-of-history-in-manhattan/. The Bowery Boys: New York City History. “The Bowery Boys: New York City History -.” Accessed October 24, 2022. https://www.boweryboyshistory.com/. Infamous New York. “The Death of Eat Em Up Jack McManus,” December 29, 2013. https://infamousnewyork.com/2013/12/28/the-death-of-eat-em-up-jack-mcmanus/. The Bowery Boys: New York City History. “The Murder on Bond Street: Who Killed Dr. Burdell?,” November 16, 2018. https://www.boweryboyshistory.com/2018/11/the-murder-on-bond-street-who-killed-dr-burdell.html. N.d.

The post Ultimate New York Walking Tour, Ghost of the Bowery first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Although the area doesn’t have the draw of big tourist attractions like the Historic Centre, this is the place to come to see everyday life. A walk around this incredible neighbourhood with its gorgeous architecture, peaceful atmosphere and fantastic art and culture makes it even more extraordinary than the tourist centre! There is something so earnest about this place. So real and yet fantastically romantic. So while it might not jump out at you as a place you “need to visit,” I would absolutely say you do!

Outside of the busy market on Saturday, this neighbourhood feels almost untouched by time. Walking down the little side street and just letting curiosity lead you will bring you to the most incredible destinations. But if you’re looking for a guide to the best of what to see and do here in San Ángel, I’ve got you covered!

Table Of Contents

1. Location & Access
2. History
3. Walking Tour
4. Parque de la Bombilla
5. Restaurante El Cardenal
6. Mercado De Flores
7. Templo del Carmen de San Ángel
8. Museo de El Carmen
9. Plaza del Carmen
10. San Angel Art Market
11. Casa del Mayorazgo de Fagoaga
12. Bishop's House 
13. Plaza San Jacinto
14. Saturday Art Market
15. Handicraft Shops
16. Museo Casa del Risco
17. Antiques Fair
18. Bazaar Sábado
19. Villa San Jacinto
20. Parroquia San Jacinto
21. Plaza de Los Cielos
22. Plaza de los Arcángeles
23. Casa de Los Marqueses de Selva Nevada
24. Casa Blanca
25. Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo
26. San Angel Inn

Location & Access

San Ángel is located south of Mexico City, just west of the popular Coyoacán district. Pairing a visit to San Ángel with a trip to Coyoacán is the perfect way to spend an entire day. Away from the crowded city centre and up above all the hustle and bustle. I would advise getting up nice and early for your visit to San Ángel. Nothing starts the day better than brunch at restaurant El Cardenal. Plus an early start means you can get the most out of your day.

Uber

The best way to get to San Ángel is via Uber. Anywhere from the centre of the city, outside busy times of the day, it will only take about 25-30 minutes to arrive here. And generally, a ride will cost around $7 USD. Our first stop on the walking tour is in the beautiful Parque de la Bombilla, so you can put that down as your routed destination.

Metro

If you prefer to take the metro, you can arrive at Miguel Ángel de Quevedo Station. It is only a 10-minute walk from the station to our tour starting point. All metro stations in Mexico City have a different icon corresponding to their station. This was initially conceptualized to ensure that illiterate people could identify the other stations on a map.

The icon for Miguel Ángel de Quevedo is a large fruit tree. Miguel Ángel de Quevedo was a famous Mexican engineer who studied Mexican flora. He was nicked named the “tree apostle,” hence the station’s icon. But also considering this area was once rich with orchards, it also seems fitting. Just a little hint at the colonia’s history right from the get-go!

History

The neighbourhood, which is now San Ángel, was initially one of the wealthiest agricultural plots in ancient Tenochtitlan. Tenochtitlan was the capital of the great Aztec empire. Here there was an abundant source of water from the nearby Magdalena River. The area was called Tenanitla, or “walled in place,” in the Nahuatl language. The name was inspired by the volcanic rock bed that surrounded the area. It is also called Pedregal, formed by the eruption of the Xitle Volcano two thousand years ago. The volcanic bed formed a kind of wall around the land which helped retain the water from the river.

The Monasteries

When the Spanish invaded, they took the land in San Ángel for their own. It was here they established a series of monasteries. The most important of which was the San Jacinto monastery, which gave the area its first Spanish name; San Jacinto Tenanitla.

The next monastery to be built was the El Carmen monastery, built by the Carmelites in 1597. Inside the monastery, the monks opened a small school. But most of the land surrounding the church was used to plant a large expanse of orchards. The orchards flourished due to fertile soil and access to water. At one time, there were over 13,000 trees that sprouted up around the community. The school and orchards were named after San Ángel Mártir, the first members of the Order of Carmel. People would marvel at the orchards and their harvest would bring in a lot of money to the order and the area. The popularity was such that eventually, people would simply refer to the neighbourhood as San Ángel. And soon that become the de facto name for the area.

San Angel as Retreat

In the 18th century, wealthy farming families began to seek larger plots of land outside of the city center. These families began to build some of the most spectacular mansions. Many still stand today as exemplary models of 18th-century architecture in Mexico City.

In the 19th century, the orchards and many of the religious institutions of San Ángel were destroyed in the Mexican-American War. The remainder of the farming lands and orchards were removed to make room for the expanding railway system in 1891. This left the area barren of all its agricultural potential which had once defined the barrio. While the city centre was building industrial factories, San Ángel remained untouched by progress and left as a relatively rural suburb. But it was just peace and quiet that, in the 1940s made it a popular country retreat for wealthy Mexican families. These families continued to preserve the historic homes they found. And kept the area as this precious gem that we can visit today!

Walking Tour

Your experience in San Ángel will be defined by the day of the week you choose to visit. If you come to San Ángel on the weekend, especially on Saturday for the Art Market, the streets are bursting with people. Car surge into this part of town, as locals love to come here on the weekend in droves. It’s not just for the tourists, in fact, I would say the locals outweigh tourists three to one. But outside of the weekend, San Ángel is a tranquil oasis. And you’ll find you often have parts of the city all to yourself. But the peace means you’ll have to skip the popular pop-up art market. Either way, there are so many things to do here, no matter when you arrive. The only day I’d say to avoid is Mondays as all the museums are closed.

Parque de la Bombilla

The best place to start your tour of the neighbourhood is in San Ángel’s grandiose Parque de la Bombilla. Mexico City is, in my opinion, the best city in the world for public parks. Each of them brings a new surprise. Filled with beauty, drama and artistry. And Parque de La Bombilla is one that I feel doesn’t get its fair due. In the centre of the park is a giant monument to Álvaro Obregón. Álvaro Obregón was the 46th president of Mexico, inaugurated in 1920. Sadly, Obregón was assassinated in 1928 inside La Bombilla restaurant, which once stood on this very spot. After his death, the restaurant was demolished to make room for a park built in his honour. The park’s unveiling took place in 1935, on the seventh anniversary of Obregón’s assassination.

The Obregón monument dominates the park. Towering over you like a lighthouse, drawing you in. A huge reflecting pool sits just in front, allowing the sun to cast its reflection down into the water, creating a mirror-like surface. In addition to the central monument, the park also boasts seven beautiful fountains, artistic garden beds and even various chess and checkers tables awaiting their daily players.

Socialist style architecture

The Obregón Monument is a socialist-style tower. Socialist-style architecture became somewhat of a trend in Mexico City in the early 20th century. Mexico was encouraged by the Russian Revolution of 1917. They admired how the shift was leaning towards the boots on the ground workers and peasants while rejecting the bourgeoisie and upper classes. As such, they were inspired by the architecture of the Soviet Union under the leadership of Joseph Stalin. The style is characterized by rigid, geometric shapes, sturdy columns and giant statues. Often built to commemorate great leaders of the country.

Obregón Monument

The Obregón Monument greets you with two statues, guarding either side of the giant steel doorway. These are the indigenous protectors, representing “Work” and “Fertility.” The monument’s centre features a large stairwell that climbs to the top of the tower. Inside was once the resting place of Obregón’s embalmed arm. The arm was since moved, but today, a marble copy stands in its place.

On either side of the monument, are two groups of sculptures. One represents the Allegory of the Sacrifice, the other the Allegory of Triumph; two defining characteristics of Obregón’s presidency. On the back of the memorial is the sculpture of the great Eagle of Mexico City. Its wings spread in front of a series of geometric Saguaro cacti.

Restaurante El Cardenal

Hopefully, the bright colours of the park have woken you up a bit and now it’s time for breakfast! Take a stroll up along Avenue de la Paz. This street leads you right into the historic heart of San Ángel. Here you’ll shortly arrive at our breakfast spot, Restaurante El Cardenal. Restaurante El Cardenal is an institution in Mexico City with multiple different locations. The San Ángel location is their newest expansion, opening in 2011. But it quickly became the go-to destination on Saturday and Sunday mornings.

El Cardenal History

El Cardenal was founded in 1969, the original location was just across the street from the Plaza de la Constitución. The founders were a large family who wanted to bring their love of traditional Mexican cuisine to an upscale setting. They saw that many households didn’t have time to make classic home-cooked dishes. But here in El Cardenal you can come and feel like you’re dining at your mother’s table.

One of the most luxurious parts of dining inside El Cardenal in San Ángel is the gorgeous architecture. The restaurant is set inside an old colonial mansion. The building was actually previous another restaurant but when it closed the house lay dormant for years. When El Cardenal bought the property they took great pains to restore the details of the home to their former glory. The stained glass windows and gleaming wood floors make just sitting inside such a joy to experience. The back of the restaurant features a glass window box that looks into the kitchen, so you can watch the chefs hard at work!

The El Cardenal Experience

Their breakfasts are among the most popular seatings, with wait times up to 40 minutes depending on the day. So the earlier you arrive, the better. This is because huge families come here all together on the weekend for a cheerful family brunch. Despite the wait, this amazing familial atmosphere is what makes this restaurant so special. Walking inside, we were treated like absolute royalty. White-shirt waiters greeted us and catered to our every need. It felt like we were dining at a Michelin star restaurant but at a fraction of the cost! 

The Food

To start the perfect breakfast, begin with hot chocolate, not coffee! Their unique hot chocolate is made with famous Doña Oliva chocolate and is like drinking a cup of history. Hot chocolate originated in Mexico and was an essential part of the Aztec culture from 1400 AD.

My favourite part about the experience of eating here was the pastry tray. When you come inside a waiter brings you over an enormous tray of sweet pastries. And you can choose, with your own eyes, which pastry you’d want to start off the meal right with. I went with the concha as I feel like it’s the perfect pairing with a hot chocolate.

Another traditional breakfast dish you’ll only find in Mexico is the Egg omelette with escamoles. Escamoles are colloquially called “Mexican caviar,” and are edible ant larvae. Escamoles have been consumed in Mexico since the age of the Aztecs and are high in nutritional value. It’s definitely one of the most unique and classic dishes on the menu. But if that’s not your thing they have many other traditional options for those who aren’t that adventurous.

While you might take a look at this elegant restaurant would be pretty pricey, El Cardenal is such a good value. They really price themselves as a family restaurant. Although there were some tourists here it was clear that most people gather here every week. And with food as good and cheap as this, I know why they do!

Mercado De Flores

To work off some of the big breakfast, walk down the street and turn north up Avenue Revolución towards the famous San Ángel Flower Market. This market dates back to the time of the Carmelite friars. When they lived in the area, their church was surrounded by extensive gardens. Here they grew fruit trees and flowers in large quantities.

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Walking up to the market, you can spot it from down the street, not only by the iconic white awnings but also by the brightly painted murals along the exterior. Public murals like this were famous in markets like this around Mexico City. Vendors are packed tightly along the thin strip of the sidewalk facing the Avenida Revolucion. In their white plastic buckets are a wide array of vibrant flowers for locals to bring home to their sweethearts with a smile.

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Templo del Carmen de San Ángel

After peaking around at the flowers in the market, head back south along Avenue Revolución. Crossing Avenue de la Paz, lead yourself towards the large domes that dominate the skyline guiding you into the old Carmelite Church of San Ángel. 

Courtyard

While most people go directly to the Museum of El Carmen, checking out the church itself is more than worth your time. Even just walking through the old stone walls into the quaint courtyard gives you so many things to look at and ponder. The church courtyard is home to one of the most amazing jacaranda trees. Hidden behind the stone walls it feels like a treasure that we found was all to ourselves! It hangs heavy over the fountain in the centre of the stone yard. Its branches also frame the gorgeous tiled domes off in the background.

History of the St. Carmen Church of San Ángel

The church was originally built in 1615 by the Carmelite friar Andrés de San Miguel. It took over 10 years to complete, and when it opened it housed the order of the Barefoot Carmelites. It was originally opened as a monastery but they also built a college nearby. Here they welcomed theology students and new priests of the order. The church flourished for years and its orchards formed the bedrock of the colonial we find today. Bringing both money and interest to this part of town.

After the Mexican Reformation War of 1858, the new secular governmental powers closed down many Catholic churches and schools. The area around San Ángel was occupied by US troops who sadly destroyed many parts of the old buildings. As well as looting many of the church’s precious assets. They even went so far as to destroy the beloved orchards.

The old school building went on to serve as a prison, barracks and even the location of the local town council. Eventually, in 1921, the church school was transformed into a museum. It was here they sought to preserve the history of the building, the treasure found hidden within and the stories from the neighbourhood’s past. But the actual church itself has stood here, in almost the exact same state, for hundreds of years. And walking inside feels like stepping back in time.

Architecture

The design of the church was made in Herrerian style. Herrerian style rose in popularity in Spain during the 16th century and came to Mexico City with the Spanish colonizers. The style features a more restrained use of ornamentation compared to other baroque styles of the time. The shape of the building is designed to spread horizontally and symmetrically. And yet unlike many other Herrerian buildings which have flat or plain roofs, the St. Carmen de San Ángel church features three incredible tiled domes. Brilliant blue and yellow-painted tiles from Puebla still glisten in the sunlight although much of the roofs have fallen into disrepair over the ages.

Walking into the church, the restrained architecture that surrounds you highlights the incredible golden altar. Light frames the altar from either side creating the most ethereal glow. While the rest of the building might be simpler in design, the altarpiece is pure baroque. Drama, glamour and gilding are everything that the baroque era brought and we can see it here in leaps and spurts!

One of my favourite parts about the churches in Mexico is the tile work. Every little side chapel or tiny niche is given the royal treatment by plastering them with gorgeous tiles. These minature tiles look like shining gems when the sunlight hits them just right. While some are just decorative others are painted to tell stories about the saints in whose chapels they sit. These tiles truly make Mexican churches feel so unique and gives you a sense of place when visiting.

Museo de El Carmen

Just outside the entrance to the church, you can find the Museo de El Carmen. The old monastery school and cloisters were transformed into a museum in the 1920s. Inside, the museum houses various objects that detail the history of the Carmelite order. When you enter through the lower cloisters you’re greeted by a small series of panels detailing the complete history of the convent and school. Throughout the rest of the museum, these histories are brought to life through a series of paintings, documents, sculptures and even the furniture which was used inside the monastery.

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As well as detailing life in the monastery, these historical paintings also depict what life was like in San Ángel in the 18th and 19th centuries. It features an amazing collection of Colonial religious art. The baroque artist Cristóbal de Villalpando has many paintings here on display. He is most famous for his painting which now hangs in the Metropolitan Cathedral. But inside this more intimate museum, you can view his pieces close up and see them in a more personal light.

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The Crypt

One of the most interesting, or for some, macabre parts of the museum is the old crypts. When the monastery was a working church, many people would pay to be buried in such a holy place. These were both members of the Carmelite Order as well as wealthy benefactors.

But over the years, and after the fall of the religious institutions, many of these bodies were forgotten. Only in the 20th century were they uncovered during the monastery’s restoration. The bodies left here were miraculously preserved because of the rich soil by which they were surrounded. They were essentially mummified. With no one to claim the bodies, the museum decided to leave them where they rested, and now visitors can give view their wrinkled flesh up close and personal. Preserved for the ages inside their velvet-lined wooden and glass caskets.

Hours & Admission: 52 pesos | Free on Sundays, closed on Mondays

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Plaza del Carmen

Head back to the main intersection at Madero and the Avenue de la Revolution to cross over to Plaza del Carmen. The brilliant-coloured buildings that surround the square blend in amongst the vibrant flowers in the garden beds in the middle of the plaza. While the Plaza de Jacinto might be the larger and most popular square in the city, Plaza del Carmen is by far my favourite. Its quaint and cramped quarters are so joyful, with locals sitting out on the benches, chatting with friends, in the early morning. Watching the artists set up their canvases as the sun rises.

San Angel Art Market

On Saturdays, this is where the start of the San Ángel art market can be found. One of the most wonderful things about the San Ángel art market is not just for tourists. Unlike some more touristy markets around the city, this market is meant for the locals. And many people come here, from far and wide, in search of the perfect art piece for their home. The atmosphere is intoxicating, everyone admiring the newest art pieces from their favourite local painters. Rainbow-coloured umbrellas dot the skyline, protecting fresh paint from the harsh rays of the sun.

Architecture around Plaza El Carmen

Even if you don’t come on a weekend, this small Plaza is a wonder to behold. It is surrounded on all sides by incredible historical buildings, important to the neighbourhood’s history. Even in just this one square, you can get a slice of the wonderfully preserved architecture that makes this neighbourhood such a gem to visit. Examples of baroque, neoclassical and neocolonial houses can be found right here. And many have been perfectly preserved since this part of town managed to escape the urbanization of the city’s centre.

House of Chucho el Roto

To the southeast, you’ll see a brilliant yellow building with bright red trim on the corner. This is the old House of Chucho el Roto or House of The Two Courtyards. This building is a wonderful example of Mexican neoclassical styles popular during the Protofio Diaz era. The house was named because it was designed with two courtyards, a lavish expense at this time. The main courtyard was built to entertain and house splendid gardens. The secondary courtyard where the carriages and stables were placed. This allowed the home to separate the working part of the house from the relaxing retreat these country homes aimed to create.

Chucho el Roto

The house was built in the 19th century for the philanthropist Francisco de Urquiaga. A popular legend about this home states that it was the hiding place for the famous bandit Jesús Arriaga. Arriaga was also nicknamed “Chucho el Roto,” hence the other name for the house. Arriaga was somewhat of a Robin Hood-type character, robbing from the wealthy and giving to the poor. This house was reported to be connected to the underground tunnels built by the Dominicans. The tunnels could be accessed through the basement and led to the nearby Plaza San Jacinto. Making it a perfect getaway for a legendary bandit.

Sadly, Arriaga was eventually captured and died in prison. But his legend lived on long past his death. And fictional stories became even more popular after his passing. Today it houses the Library of the Revolutions of Mexico. Very apt, considering it was the hideout of this legendary anti-establishment character who would have been a staunch supporter of the revolutions.

Mercado del Carmen

On the north side of the Plaza sits the popular Mercado del Carmen. This hip communal-style eatery and art gallery are housed in an old mansion dating back to the 18th century. It was also used as an English school for the upper classes of San Agnel during the 1960s and 70s. The gorgeous blue of the house blends in almost perfectly with the sky on a clear day, making it feel at one with heaven above.

Casa del Mayorazgo de Fagoaga

On the northwest corner of the plaza, along Calle de la Amargura is the Casa del Mayorazgo de Fagoaga. The brilliant burnt orange exteriors and 18-century facade welcome you onto one of the most luxurious streets in the city. It was designed in the neoclassical style with baroque-style balconies.

The home was originally built for Francisco de Fagoaga, the head of a powerful silver and gold merchant. His family was one of the first to start the trend of moving their mansions out of the central city and into the countryside. His house set the tone for other wealthy haciendas built in the era and unsurprisingly lots of future houses follow the same template. It was truly a trendsetter. The orange contrasts so well with the dense green foliage and pink flowers that bloom across the facade.

Bishop’s House 

Continue along Calle de la Amargura towards the end of the street, blocked by the corner of the old Bishop of Tenagra’s mansion. Joaquín Fernández de Madrid y Canal served as the Bishop’s adobe here in San Ángel. A Bishop was a highly regarded figure in the community. As such, the friars wanted to build a house that would impress! His house was built in 1631 (!) and is one of the best-preserved pieces of history in San Ángel. Long after the revolution, the house still stood as a well sought-after real estate piece. It was home to various famous Mexican like poet José Zorrilla, historian José María Agreda and politician and general Antonio López de Santa Anna. Today, the house serves as an art gallery hosting rotating exhibitions featuring incredible Mexican artists.

Plaza San Jacinto

Turn south past the Plaza Tenanitla (dedicated to the original name of the colonial) and make your way into the grand Plaza San Jacinto. The Plaza was named the Church of San Jacinto, located just on the west side of the square. But we’ll learn more about the church later when you go inside. The little town square popped up here as it was surrounded on all sides by the church, convent and orphanage. It quickly became the heart of the community in the 18th century and continues on as such today!

 St. Patrick Battalion

On the far west side of the Plaza, on the wall opposite, you’ll see a large plaque dedicated to the St. Patrick Battalion. “Why is there a dedication to Irish soldiers in Mexico City?” you might be wondering. In 1847, during the Mexican War for independence, Irish, German and even American immigrants came over to Mexico. They wanted to help fight for Mexico’s freedom, against the United States. The battalion was one of the fiercest and responsible for a huge majority of the deaths on the American side. So when they were caught, their punishments were brutal. They were executed right here in San Jacinto square, in front of the famous church. But their legend lives in on this plaque stands in their honour. The memory of their fighting vigour an inspiration to others who would continue the fight and win the freedom of the nation.

Diego Rivera

Make your way to the centre of the Plaza and look across the elegant central fountain. There, you will see a bronze easel with the burst of Diego Rivera emblazoned into the cartouche. As Rivera was a resident of the San Angel for many years, local artists inspired by Rivera wanted to commemorate him for generations to come. There is something wonderful about Rivera’s face looking over at the artists in the square selling their works in the square. Continuing his passion for supporting Mexican artists, even from the great beyond.

Saturday Art Market

By far the most popular thing to see in the square is to peruse the incredible Saturday Art Market. The market was established here in the 1960s. Interestingly enough, the origins of the market were due to an American, Jim Tillet, who had moved to Mexico City. He brought the concept of a weekly artisan fair to Mexico City, and the idea immediately took off. The art is both meant for the locals to enjoy as well as the tourists, highlighting the beauty of the Mexican landscape and vibrant culture. There were so many amazing artists of all different styles and mediums. My favourites were the ones that were designed to look like Lotería cards.

In addition to paintings, this Plaza is also home to craftspeople. Here you can find artisan pottery, textiles and even clothing. While some of it is a bit touristy things there are also really unique designers and artists. Prices tend to be a little more expensive here in San Angel but the quality is there to match.

There are often musicians strolling around through the market, entertaining the crowds and creating a more inviting and charming atmosphere. Street food vendors pop up selling sweet treats and salty snacks to satisfy your cravings. Art hunting is hungry work!

Handicraft Shops

If you opt to visit San Angel outside of the weekend, you can still find lots of different handicraft shops open around the square throughout the week. Shops like the Bazar San Ángel, María Bonita and Local México all sell gorgeous handmade decor and art pieces for your home. The spirit of the art market lives on long past the weekend so don’t feel like you’ll have missed it all if you can only visit during the week.

Museo Casa del Risco

On the north side of the Plaza Jacinto, hidden behind the opulent trees, is an old terra-cotta-coloured building with ‘Museo Casa del Risco‘ emblazoned in brass along the fence. Inside you’ll find an old residence dating back to the 17th-century that has since been transformed into a museum. The museum recreates the look of a traditional San Angel house as it would have looked in the 18th century. Casa del Risco has a fascinating history as it served as a residence, a military barracks and a hospital.

Fuente del Risco

The house’s main feature that people come to see is the great porcelain fountain. The fountain, or “Fuente del Risco,” is located inside the main central courtyard. It was made in the late 18th century in the opulent Baroque or “ultra baroque” style popular in Mexico City during that period.

While it looks like it is merely decorative, the fountain’s design was actually an ingenious way to preserve broken porcelain. Back then, painted porcelains were extremely expensive and yet, just like today, accidents happen and you might end up breaking a plate that costs more than a used car does today. Turning them into an art sculpture like this was a way to preserve and display even the broken pieces.

Embedded within the fountain you can spot Chinese blue and white porcelain, plates from the Ming Dynasty, green porcelain from Japan, Spanish Talavera ceramics and, of course, the homegrown ceramics of Puebla. Entire bowls, plates, cups and sauces are also scattered together with broken pieces of pottery to create this magical-looking fountain. The niches are designed to look like pearlescent shells and conches and the piece is dotted with mermaid sculptures. Even here in the hill of San Angel do we find people dreaming of the ocean.

There is so much else to see inside the museum, from Baroque art, religious sculptures, antique stained glass and recreations of 18th-century living space. But if all you want to see is the fountains, it’s easy to do so as admission to the museum is free.

Admission: Free | Open Tuesday-Sunday 10 am – 5 pm

Antiques Fair

On the weekends, just outside the museum, you’ll find high-end vintage and antique sellers bringing out their wares. This was almost as incredible as the museum itself, it felt like just outside you could literally buy items you’d just seen inside the museum. Paintings from the 19th century, religious objects and gorgeous pieces of antique jewellery. The prices are pretty high but even I was almost swayed into buying a locket from 1898! There are some real treasures so if you have the money to spend you’ll discover some amazing pieces in this marketplace.

Bazaar Sábado

If you don’t like sifting through the pop-up stands outside in the plaza, you can head into the Bazaar Sábado. The Bazaar Sábado is located inside a 17th-century red-painted mansion and dates back to the 1960s. Here you can find the giant home filled with over 100 permanent artisan shops selling everything from textiles to jewellery, ceramics and metalwork. Many of these craftspeople are award winners, so their prices are going to reflect that status, but the work is unparalleled. Personally, I prefer the stuff found on the street, but if you’re looking for something more upmarket, this is the place for you.

Inside the central open-air courtyard is a wonderful eatery serving up traditional breakfast and lunch street food. It can get pretty busy right at 12 pm but if you prefer to eat a bit early or late you’ll find more tables open. The food here is wonderful and a great place to try some amazing street food like Tlacoyos, quesadillas and gorditas.

Villa San Jacinto

If the Bazaar Sabado courtyard is too busy you can hop across the Plaza and make your way to the stunning courtyards of the Villa San Jacinto. This 19th-century house has been preserved and transformed to be enjoyed by present-day visitors. The Cafe de las Artes is a gorgeous little eatery inspired by the architecture of the Porfiriato era. Walking up the stairs, you are greeted by this incredible grisaille style stained glass window, bohemian lamps and the Catalan vaults.

You can also study the amazing remodelled garden filled with beautiful sculptures. The cafe sells lots of different drinks and has homemade desserts and sandwiches if you’re feeling a bit peckish. Sitting outside you can get pretty hot but is a beautiful place to admire the rotating selection of art work on display.

Parroquia San Jacinto

Heading back onto Calle Benito Juárez, walk just a few meters where you’ll find an unassuming set of stairs which leads you into the green oasis outside of the Parroquia San Jacinto. The Parroquia San Jacinto or San Jacinto Parish was founded by the Dominicans in 1564. The Dominican order had discovered a small waterfall nearby and utilized the water to power their spinning and weaving equipment. This allowed them to produce lots of different kinds of textiles. They sold them off and used the funds to fund the building of the church and the plush gardens.

Walking inside the church, the thing that immediately catches your eyes is the ornate churrigueresco-style altar. The rest of the interior of the church is pretty austere but there is something so charming about the simplicity. Be sure to poke your head around the cloisters inside the church. This is the perfect place to escape the sun for a minute and walk through the shaded walkways and central fountain.

The Garden

The contrast between the rather subdued building and the incredibly bright colours of the gardens is a wonderful pairing. In the centre of the garden is a fountain with a huge cross in the centre. This was the first cross ever carved in Mexico. Looking closely at it you can see elements from both the Christian and Pagan faiths.

Surrounding the church are cedars, eucalyptus and pine trees. I always feel like this little hidden away yard is most reminiscent of the old orchards of San Angel.

Plaza de Los Cielos

Walking back outside, take a stroll down the Calle Benito Juárez towards the Plaza de los Cielos. This little corner is a gem of the colonial-era architecture that remains in this neighbourhood. Beautifully decorated in ancient jacaranda and vibrant bougainvilleas pour over the stone walls. The little Plaza de Los Cielos is surrounded on the two sides by the old walls of the former monastery.

Plaza de los Arcángeles

Continue north along Árbol street, turning left on Segunda Cda. de Frontera, where you’ll discover one of the most peaceful yet stunning streets anywhere in Mexico City. The walls here are covered in foliages, and when they bloom in bright purple and blue, it feels like walking through a tunnel of flowers.

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At the end of the street, you’ll find the secret Plaza de Los Arcángeles. A nook tucked into the neighbourhood’s corner features a series of benches under a series of stone arches. In the centre of the small gardenette is a shrine to the Virgin of Guadalupe tucked inside the hole of a tree. The name of the Plaza comes from three large sandstone benches named after the Archangels; Gabriel, Rafael and Michael. It’s a fantastically peaceful place and well worth the three-minute detour!

Casa de Los Marqueses de Selva Nevada

Walk back up Arbol and west along with Calle Hidalgo. On the northwest corner is one of the more historic homes of San Angel. Casa de los marqueses de Selva Nevada was owned by Ana Ortiz de Móxica in the end of the 18th century. It would later go on to the owned by María Josefa Rodríguez de Pinillos, the ambassador of Austria-Hungary in Mexico. Maria is responsible for the majority of the renovations we can see today. One of the most impressive parts of the building is the gorgeous wooden gates set between the beautiful white painted trim and ochre-coloured exterior. The door was designed with traditional elements of Mudejar decoration.

Casa Blanca

Continue along the Calle Hidalgo until you reach the large white house at #43. This is called the Casa Blanca, or “white house,” a 17th-century hacienda owned by the Oploca counts. Look closely at the coat of arms above the door to see the design of this family’s old shield. During its life in San Angel, the house was once home to the second-largest orchard in the neighbourhood. All hidden away behind the beautiful parapets of the white house. A small plaque on the front of the house honoured it as a place of historical significance. During the Second Franco-Mexican War, this house served as a bunker for French and American soldiers.

Legen of the Casa Blanca

But the most significant thing about this house is the legend that goes along with it. If you walk slightly further away from the front door, you’ll see a large wrought iron balcony towards the back of the house. The story goes that the woman who once lived here had the love of her life go off to war. She watched him leave from this balcony and would return to it every day, waiting for his return. But he never would come home, and she died an old woman, standing on the balcony, heartbroken. Eternally waiting for her true love to come home. Her ghost is said to still haunt the upper balcony so keep your eyes peeled for her wailing cries.

Licenciado | Leandro Valle

Continue down Hidalgo until you reach Licenciado street and walk north. This is another fantastic example of just how amazing even the ordinary homes in this neighbourhood are. Walls are dripping in ivy and each new facade is painted in a different vibrant colour. Rich wooden doorways and fantastical wrought iron gates protect entry from the street into the secretive homes inside.

Although there might not be any specific historical sights here, these are the streets that make visiting a neighbourhood like San Angel so worth it! The road curves to the right and turns into Leandro Valle. Eventually, popping you outright outside Avenue Altavista. Bringin you to the front steps of the famous Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo.

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo

Standing from across the street is the best way to introduce yourself to this famous home. You can see the red and white building on the right, which served as Diego Rivera‘s studio contrasted by the bright periwinkle painted studio for Frida Kahlo. The two homes are connected via the large walkway on the top floor. The entire design of the homes is symbolic of their love. Two very different artists and lovers that are yet forever connected. This was Rivera’s dream home that he had commissioned by architect and friend Juan O’Gorman. O’Gorman is well known for many different famous buildings in Mexico City including the incredible designs inside the UNAM campus.

The museum leads you through both houses to see their studios, living spaces and a gorgeous rooftop view across the neighbourhood of San Angel. To get a complete guided tour of the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo you can read our full guide here.

San Angel Inn

To end your day in San Angel, head back across the street and to the historic San Angel Inn. In my honest opinion, the food isn’t the best here. It was probably one of the most disappointing meals I’ve had in Mexico City. And for what you get, it’s overpriced. But that being said, nothing can compete with this restaurant’s history, decor, and architecture.

My recommendation is to arrive before or after their lunch or dinner rush. And opt for only a drink and perhaps a dessert or snack. This way you can still enjoy the incredible environments but don’t need to worry about spending too much on subpar food. Plus, our margaritas were some of the best we’ve ever had so there are some definite gems to be found!

History

The best way to describe this place is an institution. The building itself dates back to 1616! It was originally the Our Lady of Santa Ana Monastery, built by Hernando Aragonés. Surrounding the monastery was a series of superb orchards and rich agave gardens. They produced a large amount of pulque here over the years, an iconic drink found only in Mexico. Despite changing hands many times over the years, much of the original gardens have been preserved to enjoy today.

History of San Angel Inn

In 1777, the old monastery was purchased by Ramon Goicoechea, who converted it into his family mansion. The hotel was also owned by musician Carlos Prieto who hosted classical music concerts inside. Even today, this tradition continues with live music played throughout the restaurant. Many years later, in 1908, the property was transformed into a large hotel and restaurant. The new owners sold off the excess land, which turned into the neighbourhood of Altavista. The huge mansion was divided up to make all different spaces, from guest rooms to the various restaurants and event spaces we can visit today.

Walking through the hallways, courtyards, and different rooms feels like being inside a living museum. The walls are covered in artworks collected by all the different owners who called this place home over the years. Famously, this restaurant was so popular that it was even notable for hosting various Mexican revolutionaries from Emiliano Zapata to Pancho Villa and Zapata. They were even seen singing a unity pact right here in the restaurant!

This brings us to the end of this incredible tour of San Angel. I hope you’ve enjoyed the sights we’ve seen along the way. Let me know in the comments which stop was your favourite or other treasures you’ve discovered along the way!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

The post The Ultimate Guide to the Artistic and Creative Corners of San Angel, Mexico City Walking Tour first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Truthful, this isn’t my favourite part of town. I’m not a luxury gal, I’m definitely more hipster than heiress. But after avoiding the area I finally made the effort to check it out and was amazed at what I found! There are some really incredible gems out here if you know where to look. But even I was wrapped up in the spell that is Polanco.

Leaning in Exploring Luxury

I made it a point to check out some of the luxury shopping and suddenly I understood, at least partially, what all the fuss was about. As someone who usually just buys her perfume at Lush, I was blown away by a hedonistic shopping experience at Xinu! I even came out with my first ever luxury perfume purchase! One of the greatest parts about a trip to Mexico City is that because you’ll eat at so many low-priced restaurants, you can afford that one-time splurge. We also made a point to get reservations at Pujol. This was my first time eating at a Michelin Star restaurant. It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience and one I will never forget! 

So if you’re like me and you’re looking to check out Polanco, but step past more than just the fancy shops, come with me on our Self Guided Tour of the luscious tree-lined street of Polanco! And not to worry! Polanco has more than just 5-star restaurants. There is also plenty of cheap eats, free entertainment and incredible sights found along the way.

Table Of Contents

1. Location & Access
2. History
3. Where to Stay?
4. Walking Tour
6. Avenue Horacio
7. Plaza Uruguay
8. Av. Isaac Newton
9. Parque Lincoln
10. Tianguis Parque Lincoln
11. El Moro
12. Cafebrería El Péndulo
13. Pasaje Polanco
14. Avenida Presidente Masaryk
15. La Casa del Pastor
16. Shopping in Polanco
17. Americas Park
18. St. Augustine Parish
19. TANE Instagram Wall
20. El Turix
21. Iglesia de San Ignacio de Loyola
22. El Palacio de Hierro Polanco
23. Soumaya Museum
24. Dining in Polanco
25. Autocinema Coyote

Location & Access

Polanco is located north of Paseo de la Reforma and just south of Avenida Ejercito Nacional. To the east and west Polanco sandwiches between Avenida Mariano Escobedo and Boulevard Manuel Avila Camacho. You can always easily Uber in and out of Polanco but if you want to take the subway to Metro Polanco. The Metro Polanco station is located right beside our first stop on the tour!

History

The Name ‘Polanco’

Long before the Spanish arrived, what is now known as “Mexico City” was first the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan. During those fertile years, a great river passed through what is now Avenue Campos Elisios in Polanco. In the 16th century, after the conquest, the land here was gifted to Hernán Cortés by the King of Spain. Cortes took control and named the river after the Spanish Jesuit Juan Alfonso de Polanco. The Polanco family were considered almost royalty and were highly regarded members of the board of King of Spain. A majority of the family members travelled to Mexico City as newly created “officers of the Crown”. This is where we get the name of the neighbourhood today. Sadly, the river was lost when the Spanish drained the valley to make more room for expansion. But the name lives on.

Polanco Farms

As time went on, the land became occupied by farmers. It was primarily used to plant mulberry trees and breed silkworms. The 16th-century Hacienda de Los Morales, one of the largest Polanco farmsteads, was established. We can even visit the old homestead today as it is still standing on the neighbourhood’s west side. It is now occupied by an incredible restaurant where you can dine inside a piece of history.

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20th Century

The area really only came into being as we know it today in the 1930s. The rural farmland was redeveloped by the enterprising Aleman family. They foresaw the need for further residential expansion in the city. Soon, Polanco was covered in large mansions with pristine tree-lined streets.

During this time, various foreign communities also began migrating to this area of town. As it was brand new they were able to establish little community circles, Even today you can find vibrant Jewish, Spanish, German and Lebanese pockets inside Polanco. Polanco is where the majority of the city’s working synagogues can still be found.

Spanish Revival Polanco

The most popular architectural style for these new mansions was Californian colonial or Spanish Revival style. These houses are easily identifiable by their curved arches, white stucco walls, terracotta roof tiles, wrought iron work railings and window grilles, and fantastical courtyards with expansive arcades. You’ll see many examples of this along Campos Elíseos, Avenida Jules Verne and Champs Elysées.

Introduction of Modernism

Later on in the 1950s, we saw the explosion of functionalist style defined by functional building materials and low levels of ornamentations. Many buildings are nothing more than concrete slabs, steel sheets, and exposed wood beams. We can see examples of this with buildings like the National Conservatory of Music, the Franco-Mexican Lyceum, and the Spanish Hospital.

The Population Boom

The boom of population expansion in Polanco didn’t occur until after the 1960s. After the previously elite neighbourhoods of Roma and Condesa began to open up to lower-class families with the introduction of rent-controlled apartments, the upper class of those barrios were looking for greener pastures. Although there was still some free real estate, the solution to the large influx of people was to introduction luxury high-rise residential buildings. These were first introduced in the west end where large wide multi-lanes streets were built around these huge multi-storey apartments.

Mid-Century Modern

But my favourite aspect of Polanco’s architecture is the rise of mid-century design. In anticipation of the 1968 Olympics in Mexico City there were many new hotels built to accommodate the influx of visitors. During this time the cult of personalities would soon return to the streets of Polanco. Most notable is the Camino Real Polanco Hotel. This hotel became an icon of the Mexican Modernism movement. This style featured geometric shapes, bright, bold colours, sloping low-rise structures reminiscent of Aztec, pre-hispanic structures. While the Camino Real was the first of this kind of design, years later, the experimentation of Mexican Modernism would continue in buildings like the Museo Jumex, Sala de Arte Publico Siqueiros, Luis Barragán’s Casa Barragán, Juan O’Gorman’s Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo’s Studio House and the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) Campus.

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Where to Stay?

Camino Real Polanco Mexico $$

The Camino Real Polanco is a beautiful hotel/museum designed by renowned architect Ricardo Legorreta. The space opened its doors to the public on July 25th, 1968. It was famous for combining modern features with shapes reminiscent of pre-hispanic pyramids when it opened. Elements from these merge to create an architectural masterpiece! There is something so nostalgic about the 60’s decor, which is so atmospheric. Plus, as it is not a high-end luxury hotel, the rooms come at a reasonable price for the area! If you have a little more cash to spend, book one suite as the retro decor is incredible. The view out towards the best architectural features of the hotel is wonderfully highlighted.

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Orchid House Polanco $$$

Nothing feels more like Mexican royalty than a stay at the Orchid House Polanco. The Orchid House provides visitors with the exquisite feeling of being at home with the comforts of a hotel. Hidden away inside a 100-year-old mansion, the hotel is filled with blue and coloured stained glass, antique barro floors hand-painted with images of Don Quijote and Shakespeare. There are also neoclassic mouldings and rich, traditional antique pink cantera stone. Each room is exquisitely designed and features textiles and handmade decorations from local artisan communities.

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Walking Tour

To start the perfect morning in Polanco, you must head over to is owned and operated by Chef Enrique Olvera. Olvera is infamous in the Mexico City food scene as he is also the chef who put Pujol on the map! But unlike Pujol, which is hard to get reservations at and costs a pretty penny, Eno is far more accessible for the everyday traveller.

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At Eno, you can try a traditional Mexican breakfast, like a plate of the classic Chillaques Verde for only cost $7 US! Their daily selection of pan dulce (sweet bread) is incredible! At only $3 a piece, it’s worth ordering a few for the table to share.

Avenue Horacio

From here, let’s take a walk down Avenue Horacio towards our next stop. Avenue Horacio is a perfect example of residential life in Polanco. Tall and orderly, minimalist and functionalist buildings line either side of wide, tree-lined avenues. But unlike the rougher charm that avenues in Condesa or Roma have, Polanco’s avenues are pristine. American-esque evergreen trees tower over the tiled pathways.

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Plaza Uruguay

Before turning south, make a quick stop inside Plaza Uruguay. Marking the entrance to the park is a large statue of General Jose Artigas. General Jose Artigas fought in the Latin American Wars of Independence. He battled against the Spanish Empire and is considered a national treasure here in Mexico City. The park is a beautiful example of the green spaces introduced into Colonia in the 20th century. In the centre of the Plaza is a mammoth concrete sculpture. Water cascades down off the sides of the brutalist-inspired fountain which is surprisingly intriguing despite its simplistic design.

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Av. Isaac Newton

The next block over is the street named after physicist Isaac Newton. Head along this street towards the southwest. As we’ve noted before in the Historic Centre, Mexico City has an amazing collection of street names. Each neighbourhood has a different theme. In upper-class Polanco, many of the streets are named after famous authors, sciences and philosophers. You’ll find the authors like Oscar Wilde, Julio Verne, Dickens, and Hans Christian Andersen. Poets like Moliere, Tennyson, Dumas, and Edgar Allen Poe. They’ve honoured scientists like Galileo, Aristoteles and Newton all with their own streets. And finally, there are the philosophers Plato, Hegel, and Socrates.

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Parque Lincoln

Av. Isaac Newton ends at the corner of the great Parque Lincoln. While many large mansions in Polanco already had private gardens, Parque Lincoln was the first public park. This allowed all residents to feel at ease outside.

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Although naming the park after an American president might seem odd, Lincoln was very well-loved by Mexicans. Lincoln opposed the US invasion of Mexico during the 1840s and from that moment won over the Mexicans. The large statue of Lincoln, made by Augustus Saint-Gaudens, stands in the park’s center. It was a gift to the city of Mexico by US president Lyndon B. Johnson when he visited Mexico City in 1966.

The park was inaugurated in 1938 by President Lázaro Cárdenas. Back then it was called Parque de Polanco or Parque del Palomar. A Polmar is a “dovecote” or house for pigeons or doves. Originally, the famous Parque Lincoln Clock Tower was a simple dovecote where the city’s dove population would come to roost.

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Tianguis Parque Lincoln

If you find yourself in town on a Saturday, you’ll find the park awash with fuschia-coloured tarps. These can be spotted a mile away and mark the Tianguis Parque Lincoln or Lincoln Park flea market. Everything from flowers to ceramics and handicrafts can be found here! Everything from quesadillas, sopes, gorditas, pozole, carnitas, chilaquiles, fresh fruit and more can all be found here under the tents. The neighbourhood is a bit more upmarket, so while the food and goods aren’t as cheap as elsewhere the quality is also higher.

Sculptures

In addition to the statue of Lincoln, the park is filled with incredible sculptures. These outdoor works of art feature famous activists like Nelson Mandela and Martin Luther King Jr. Other sculptures are much more subjective and ask the viewer to interpret. My favourite is the woman intertwined in a root swirling around a city. Each tendril burst out of the ground.

Aviary

Hidden away inside the park, inside a beehive-shaped building, is the Parque Lincoln Aviary. The Aviary was originally built in 1938. Although it closed down for almost four decades, it has since come back into fashion. Entry inside is only $10 pesos (US 50 cents)! If you have kids, this is a great option to entertain them. Inside you’ll find over 20 different species of birds. There are peacocks, parakeets, sparrows, pigeons and, of course, even parrots—all leaving in harmony.

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Nelson Mandela Cultural Space

Across from the Aviary, you’ll see another white stucco building, this is the Nelson Mandela Cultural Space. Inside, music and dance classes are offered to people of all ages. Stop outside the windows to see if you can hear any guitars or violins being played. Listen carefully as you walk by as on quiet days the music echoes throughout the park.

Clock Tower

One of the most iconic images of Parque Lincoln is the clock tower that rises out above the trees. The Torre del Reloj or Clock Tower today is used as a public art gallery. But it is only open when they have a current exhibition on or not. Worth poking your head inside just to see.

Across the street, make a brief stop to see the incredible home at the intersection of Luis Urbina and Alejandro Dumas. Here you’ll find one of the finest examples of Colonial Californian design. The house was built for the lottery magnate Elias Henaine and designed by architect Eduardo Fuhrken Meneses. So many of these “Mexican” looking buildings were made for immigrants. Helaine, who was Lebanese, request this type of style as a means to “fit in” to her new home country.

Park of Mirrors

Another nickname for Parque Lincoln is “Park of Mirrors.” The names comes from the two famous reflecting pools on either side of Calle Julio Verne. Especially on the weekends, these reflecting pools are a popular spot where you’ll find model ship collectors. They come from all over to place their boats in the water for the viewing pleasure of the surrounding public.

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El Moro

Head north along with Calle Julio Verne. These three little islands across from the park, where traffic swerves around, are home to some of the chicest cafes and restaurants in Polanco. And many of them are pretty well priced for such a high-end area. Boicot Café is my fave coffee chain in CDMX and worth checking out if you need a caffeine pick me up! But the main reason to make your way around the central circuit is to check out the Polanco branch of Churrería El Moro.

The original Churrería El Moro, in the Centro Histórico, is the oldest churro restaurant in Mexico City, established in 1935. A Spanish immigrant was shocked upon moving to Mexico City that there weren’t any churro shops in town. So he started his own little churro cart he wheeled around. The treat caught on immediately and it didn’t take long for him to buy a permanent location where he opened his first shop. Since then the company has only grown with locations all over Mexico City.

Hot Chocolate Dip

The only way to eat a churro from El Moro is with a cup of hot chocolate. You take that hot piece of fried cinnamon dough and dip it right into the hot cocoa. El Moro has four types of hot chocolates; Mexican (traditional and light ), French (with vanilla), Spanish (sweet and thick) and Special (bitter). On the other hand, hot chocolate is as old as Mexico itself. The drinking of chocolate can be traced back to Aztec times and was often referred to as “the drink of the gods.” The churro and hot chocolate as the culinary interpretation of the blending of these two cultures.

Cafebrería El Péndulo

Make a quick detour east along Calle Virgilio and up Calle Alejandro Dumas towards the Polanco branch of Cafebrería El Péndulo. Cafebrería El Péndulo is my favourite book store chain in Mexico City. They have locations in Condesa, Roma and San Angel. If you spot one, you know this is a great place to rest your feet. There is no disputing that their Polanco location is the absolute penultimate in architecture and design. This store is famous for being one of the most popular Instagram locations in the city.

The towering bookshelves are framed by these long-hanging plants. Making you feel like you’ve entered a greenhouse that is growing books. The swirling wooden staircase with bright teal banisters frames the entire bookshop. The entire place just feels cozy, modern and vibrant all at once. The roof of the building is made of semi-opaque glass. This allows natural light to pour into the main gallery creating the ideal space for reading.

Cafeteria

The reason these stores are called “Cafebrerías,” is that each one comes complete with a small cafe. Couches and chairs dot the entire second floor where you can sit for hours, enjoying watching people peruse the book selection while enjoying a lovely coffee. I often Uber up to Polanco just to sit and enjoy a coffee inside El Péndulo. They have a great selection of English books. Therefore, I am never strong enough not to leave without a new book in hand. Something always calls my name.

Pasaje Polanco

Jump back across the street and pop and enter into the Pasaje Polanco. The Pasaje Polanco, originally named the Pasaje Comercial, is an open-air shopping centre. The ground floor is littered with chic tiendas (boutiques) and above this, there are residential apartments. Even if you have no interest in shopping, this building is an architectural wonder. It’s stunning but has a surprisingly complicated history.

Colonial Californian Architecture

The complex was opened in 1939 and designed by Francisco J. Serrano in what we now call Colonial Californian style. Serrano was the first to define the Colonial Californian architectural style. He frequently travelled to Los Angeles to purchase films for a movie theatre he owned in Mexico. Everywhere he looked in Los Angeles, he saw a style called Spanish Colonial Revival. This style featured red-tiled roofs, arched passageways, iron-grille windows, Talavera tiles, and white stucco. But anyone looking at this can clearly see the Mexican influence. But by referring to it as “Spanish,” it held a more European cache to Americans who looked down on Mexico. Calling it Spanish Colonial design erased the true influence that Mexican art and architecture always held in America. 

This style would define the Californian architecture of the 1920s. It was so popular that a few years later, it was adopted here in Mexico City. But instead of drawing from their history, they took on the naming convention of ‘Colonial Californian’ architecture. And continued to be inspired by the more watered-down version of their past. The blueprint of these Californian buildings was fairly standardized. They consisted of the elements mentioned above and also featured a large interior courtyard. This courtyard was where shops would be installed on the ground level. While above, apartments would be built that would look out onto the semi-private courtyard below. Today, everyone has to admit the architecture is absolutely beautiful. But it’s a fascinating history to see how Mexican designs became Americanized. And then returned back to Mexico but as a shadow of their former self.

Avenida Presidente Masaryk

Exit visa Avenida Presidente Masaryk and make sure to take a second look back at the facade of the Pasaje Polanco as it’s truly spectacular from this vantage point. Avenida Presidente Masaryk is home to some of the country’s most prestigious and expensive restaurants and boutiques. It is considered the most exclusive avenue in Latin America, the Mexican version of ‘Rodeo Drive‘.

The Avenida Presidente Masaryk, is named after a Czech president Tomáš Masaryk. Tomáš Masaryk was the first president of Czechoslovakia when it became an independent country. Mexicans deeply revered countries that became independent as they themselves know the power that comes with independence. But the other reason Presidente Masaryk is admired in Polanco is due to the large Jewish community that lived here. Masaryk was a staunch defender of the Jewish people in Czechoslovakia. A statue of President Masaryk was donated by Prague in 2000 and installed along the street bearing his name. The same statue can also be found outside Prague Castle. Linking the two countries forever.

La Casa del Pastor

If you’re hungry and aren’t looking to spend a fortune, head to La Casa del Pastor. This little taco restaurant sits in one most exclusive areas in the city. And yet at around 40 pesos/taco (US $2) it’s very reasonably priced! You fill out a little paper sheet and tick off how many of each taco you’d like to get. There is such a huge selection of options here. The tacos pastor are their specialty. But you can also try Pollo (chicken), bistec (steak), Costilla (rib), lomito adobado (marinated tenderloin), chorizo, vegetarian and more! Honestly, when you see a menu this deep, you know the quality can’t be the best, but you really can’t beat the locations.

Don’t fill up too much as we’ll pass by another popular taco spot later. But in case you just want to sit and enjoy the view this place won’t break the bank! Get a spot on the patio if you can and you’ll really get your money’s worth.

Shopping in Polanco

From here, you can continue west along Av. Pdte. Masaryk where our tour continues, or you can take a break to do some shopping. I am working on the entire post of my favourite shops in Polanco that aren’t just international luxury brands. But in the meantime, if you’re looking for unique shops to check out, you can head east to Uriarte Talavera Polanco. Uriarte Talavera Polanco has some of the best ceramic tiles from Puebla, Mexico. The shop was established in 1824 and features classic designs and modern takes on the world-class pottery made in Puebla.

As mentioned before, Xinú Perfumes is the most incredible perfume shop. One of the most transformative experiences I’ve ever had. And on top of that, the staff were incredibly kind. There was no pressure to buy of the judgement of your financial status when you walked in. Something I’ve definitely experienced in high-end stores like Louis Vuitton, Cartier or Dolce & Gabbana found in Polanco. Xinú’s philosophy is that it appeals to our olfactory memory. Their perfumes were all unlike anything I had smelled before, and so rich even a tiny whiff transcended me into another realm. It’s well worth the price tag but honestly pretty reasonable when it comes to high-end perfume.

IKAL is a beautifully curated store featuring burgeoning designers’ contemporary design objects and clothes. Lots of modern and handmade pieces to be found here and even if the price tag is pretty steep, you feel inspired just browsing.

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Americas Park

If shopping isn’t your thing, head north along Alfredo de Musset towards Parque America. Parque America or American Park is a shady and vibrant park where the community comes out to play. Many people are out skateboarding, doing martial arts in the square or just relaxing with ice cream on one of the many comfortable benches. Locals mill about walking their dogs and chatting with each other about the latest gossip.

In the park, you’ll find a statue of Paul P. Harris. Harri was an American lawyer from Chicago, Illinois. He founded the club that became the humanitarian organization Rotary International in 1905. The park is another spectacular sight during the Jacaranda season which the purple trees bloom encircling the park in a colourful ring.

St. Augustine Parish

Towering above the conifer trees and leafy palms is the arched roof of the Church of San Agustín. This church is such a unique architectural wonder. It was designed by Leonardo Noriega and engineer Juan Valero Capetillo in 1949. The church’s facade features this monumental stone front. Most notable for the six hollow arches framing the pinnacle. The concave dome above the entrance to the church is adorned with reliefs. They feature images of the first seven Augustinians who arrived in America.

TANE Instagram Wall

Head back or continue to walk west along Avenida Presidente Masaryk. Here is where you can peek into the windows of some of the most expensive and exclusive stores in all of Mexico City. Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Montblanc, Rolex, Cartier and more. The windows displays here are always stupendous, so don’t be shy about taking a look. But one of the most photographed places in all of Mexico City has got to the be outside Tane. This jewellery store’s bright pink-painted facade also features a wall of fence cacti. Framed within the cacti is a vibrant neon sign which screams, “Mexico Mi Amor” or Mexico My Love. Almost everyone who passes by loves to get a snap in front of it! And honestly, who can blame them?

El Turix

Our second taco stop of the day is at El Turix. Winding down a little side street, this unassuming, practically standing-room-only restaurant is a hidden gem of the neighbourhood. El Turix specializes in cochinita pibil, a taco variation that comes from the Yucatán Peninsula. Cochinita pibil is made from a fatty slab of pork shoulder that has been slow-cooked until it just falls apart. It is marinated in achiote paste which lends a peppery flavour to the meat. The meat is also marinated with oranges to give it a sweet accompaniment to the slightly bitter achiote. Even after cooking, the pork is left to soak in the marinade juices. This gives you a slightly messy taco, but you’ll eat it up so quick you will barely notice! Tacos are only $18 pesos (less than US $1), so you can load up!

Iglesia de San Ignacio de Loyola

Head back up to Avenida Presidente Masaryk and continue north along Avenue Moliere. On the left side of the road, hidden behind a startlingly large, stark white wall, is the San Ignacio de Loyola Church. Turn just around the corner of Avenue Horacio, and suddenly the modernist church reveals itself to you. The church was completed in 1961 by famed architect Juan Sordo. Its sharp triangular structure is covered in handmade yellow ceramics. In the sunlight it shines like gold in the light of day.

If the church is open, be sure to step inside the Jesuit temple. Walking inside the incredible stained glass window bathes the atrium in rainbows of light. The metal gables that hold up the roof create this intricate web of metal above your head. It is truly one of the unique churches in the city and a little secret many people don’t even know if there.

El Palacio de Hierro Polanco

Another modernist architectural marvel of Polanco is El Palacio de Hierro. Located just across the street from the church. El Palacio de Hierro has been open since 1891, but their original flagship store is located in the Historic Centre. But their history dates back even further. In 1850 Frenchman Victor Gassier moved to Mexico City and opened Las Fábricas de Francia, or the Factories of France. The shop sold the best of french fashions imported from Europe.

El Palacio de Hierro History

Gassier joined forces with Alexander Reynaud in the 1890s to build Mexico City’s first upscale department store. They were inspired by Le Bon Marché in Paris, Saks Fifth Avenue in New York and Harrods in London. The name “El Palacio de Hierro” means the Iron Palace. It was given this nickname after opening since the department store was the first iron and steel structure to be built in Mexico City. People would pass by during its contribution in awe of the modern building materials. The company took advantage of the publicity by renaming the company El Palacio de Hierro.

The Move to Polanco

Eventually, the store outgrew its location in the Historical Centre. The company wanted to aim not only to expand but bring in more expensive stores to serve a different type of clientele. In 2016 to spent US$300 million to build the new El Palacio de Hierro here in Polanco. The shopping mall is spread out over 55,200 square metres and is the largest department store in Latin America!

Soumaya Museum

Continue north and turn west along Ejército Nacional Mexicano. This busy street is replete with Jacaranda trees come to the springtime! Turn up north along F. C. de Cuernavaca, where you have a spectacular view of the Soumaya Museum as you approach. The Museo Soumaya is one of my favourite types of museums. It is not controlled and operated by the government but instead features one man’s private collection. 

Carlos Slim Helú

Carlos Slim Helú is a Mexican telecommunications magnate. From 2010 to 2013 he was ranked by the Forbes business magazine as the richest person in the world! He is even the largest single shareholder of The New York Times. As such, the man can afford a lot of really, really high-valued art. 

Slim named the ‘Soumaya Museum‘ after his wife, Soumaya Domit, who died in 1999. Carlos wanted to share his art with the public. Instead of just keeping it to himself. The collection was so important to his wife and sharing it with the world felt like a way to keep her alive.

But Carlos wanted to give access to these incredible works of art to everyone, no matter their class or financial status. Therefore, the museum is FREE to enter. And not just on Sundays, like some of the other city museums, but EVERY DAY. 

Architecture

The museum is located inside the Plaza Carso. It is also considered one of the most attractive modern architectural structures in all of Mexico City. Designed by Mexican architect Fernando Romero but engineered by famed architect Frank Gehry. Those who know Frank Gehry‘s work, you can almost identify the building straight away. There are so many iconic elements in the design. The building seems to be twisting itself straight out of the ground. Over 16,000 hexagonal aluminum tiles were used to cover the exterior. To hold up all these tiles, an exoskeleton was built with 28 vertical curved steel columns and seven beams encircling the structure. This design was inspired by offshore oil rigs. Not surprisingly, the building cost almost $800 million to build. A testament to Slim’s enormous fortune that he could afford such a construction.

Interior

The museum contains over 66,000 pieces of art valued at over 700 million dollars! The collection features art from all different periods and artists all over the world. There are religious relics, European masters, Mexican artists, and even the largest collection of pre-Hispanic and colonial-era coins. I adore personal collections since they truly tell a story about the owner. What Slim and his wife were drawn to, what they were passionate about.

And what they wanted to see upon their walls or in their home. The collection features the largest group of sculptures by Auguste Rodin outside France. Slim’s wife loved Rodin more than any other artist, and their collection is a testament to this love.

When you enter the building, you pass through a narrow entryway into the building that soars up around you, like entering through the pin of a needle. You walk inside into this giant wide open space. Since the building has no window, you are led up to the top level in this spiral. Every one of the six different floors has a unique shape. Walking through the galleries, you almost feel like the art is closing in on you as you reach the top, where suddenly you step into this sun-drenched gallery. The rooftop is made with glass, so sunlight casts itself down into the gallery during the day.

Dining in Polanco

To end your evening in Polanco, you need to book yourself an incredible meal. Now don’t get me wrong, there are plenty of fine dining restaurants in Polanco that will be a real splurge, but you can also opt for something much more affordable if you want. You don’t need to splash out. But if you’re looking for a once-in-a-lifetime meal, this is the place to have it!

Pujol $$$$

Pujol is by far the most popular restaurant, not just in Polanco but in all of Mexico City. In 2021 it moved up to #9 on the list of the World’s Best Restaurants! Chef Enrique Olvera created Pujol in 2000 and almost right away wowed the culinary world. His aim was to showcase Mexican cusine and the country’s rich history. Reservations are tough to get, so try to plan your visit about three-four months in advance.

Pujol History

Today chef Jesús Durón has taken over for Olvera but has continued to refine the incredible flavours and come up with new culinary adventures. The menu’s aim was to take traditional dishes and transform them into the modern era. The most famous of their dishes are their Mole Madre and Mole Nuevo. ‘Mole’ comes from the Nahuatl word ‘mōlli’ meaning “sauce,” and has traditionally been used in Mexican cuisine for centuries. Pujol’s mole features a dark “mother mole” which has been aged for around 2,500 days. The mother mole is served within a ring of the “new mole” with a side of tortillas you use to taste the mole all on its own to really appreciate and experience the flavour. The traditional tasting menu costs around $2000 MXN ($100 USD) without alcohol.

Taco Omakase Meal

When we visited Pujol, we booked a seat for their taco-omakase experience. Omakase means “chef’s favourites” in Japanese and features a rotating 10-course featuring truly experimental takes on the conventional idea of a taco. The entire meal takes place inside their incredible glass dining room, which looks out to their natural gardens, where they grow many of the ingredients for the menu. The whole course was over 3-hours long and was more of an experience than a meal. Taco Omakase Menu costs around $3000 MXN per person ($147 USD) and includes alcohol pairings.

Quintonil $$$$

If you don’t manage to get reservations at Pujol, another incredible dining experience can be found at Quintonil. Quintonil was opened by Chef Jorge Vallejo, who started off at Pujol, where he made a name for himself. Quintonil takes the concept of showcasing Mexican flavours and turns the dishes on their head. Most of the ingredients on the menu are harvested literally 30 meters from where you’re sitting. They do offer a tasting menu with over 10-courses. This will cost you $3,280 MXN ($160 US) or with the alcohol pairing $5,235 MXN ($255). But if this is too expensive, you can also order from their a-la-carte menu with dishes ranging from $200-$500 pesos.

El Bajío $

If you’re still looking to enjoy a traditional Mexican meal but can’t spend upwards of $100 per person, El Bajío is a fantastic choice. El Bajío was founded in 1972 by Raúl Ramírez Degollado and Alfonso Hurtado Morellón who brought traditional Mexican cuisine from Veracruz to Mexico City. They have a huge patio and a large, airy interior decorated with traditional Mexican arts and crafts. The portions are enormous, and the atmosphere feels like dining inside a big family kitchen. Dishes here cost around $165 MXN ($9 USD). And there is even a surprisingly exciting kid menu to choose from, making it such a great place to come as a family.

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Autocinema Coyote

While many people will love to spend an evening in Polanco at chic bars like Gin Gin and Limantour Polanco, I prefer something a little different. In the north end of Polanco, behind a rather unseemly looking fence, is one of the coolest retro gems of the city; the Autocinema Coyote. Since 2011, the Autocinema Coyote has been the only drive-in movie theatre in Mexico City. But in addition to cars, there is also a little outdoor seating area where visitors without vehicles can spread out and enjoy a movie under the stars and enjoy a classic drive-in experience.

Autocinema Coyote plays everything from new releases to cult classics well into the evening. Sometimes when they show the old classics, people will show up in costumes and even perform along with the show! It’s such a great atmosphere. Check their website for the latest showings and which times are playing the films with English Audio, otherwise it’s usually dubbed in Spanish.

I hope you enjoyed this walking tour of the upscale streets of Polanco, Mexico City’s most exclusive neighbourhood. Let me know in the comments where your favourite stop was. Or if you have any particular stops you always make in this part of town!

Happy Travels, Adventurers

References

El Universal | LA Times

The post Self Guided Walking Tour of the Upscale Streets of Polanco: The City’s Most Exclusive Neighborhood first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Despite our rather stressful introduction to the park, in getting lost we uncovered so many different parts of the park I had never seen mentioned in other guides! I made it a point to return the next morning! I arrived early in the day, set out to explore every inch of Chapultepec Park. What I discovered was truly one of the most spectacular public parks I had ever seen. Not only is Chapultepec Park unsurpassed in terms of beauty, but it also has a long history that dates back to the 10th century. The park is heralded for its bio-diversity, lush gardens, and home to some of Mexico City’s most iconic landmarks. It is no surprise to learn it won the gold award from the World Urban Parks Association as one of the most beautiful parks in the world!

But it’s not just a tourist destination either; it’s also full of life. Locals come here to cool themselves under the forest canopy and snack on incredible street food. If you’re looking to escape city life and immerse yourself in nature, Chapultepec Park is the place to be!

Guide to Chapultepec Park

1. What to Know Before you Arrive
2. Hours & Access
3. The History of Chapultepec Park
4. Map of Walking Tour
5. Puerta de Leones
6. Monument to the Ninos Heroes
7. Petrogrifo de Moctezuma
8. Ahuehuete "El Sargento"
9. Memorial Squadron 201
10. Cincalco Cavern
11. Audiorama
12. Chapultepec Castle Hill
13. Museo del Caracol
14. Chapultepec Castle
15. Street Food
16. El Lago de Chapultepec
    • The Casa del Lago
17. Librería Porrúa
18. Jardín Botánico del Bosque de Chapultepec
19. Museo Nacional de Antropología
    • Museo de Arte Moderno
20. Zoológico de Chapultepec
21. La Casa de la Bici Bosque de Chapultepec
22. Fuente del Quijote
23. Poets' Causeway
24. Carrusel De Chapultepec
25. Fuente de las Ranas
26. Monumental Fuente de Nezahualcóyotlht

What to Know Before you Arrive

Bosque Chapultapec or Chapultapec Park is enormous. It is twice the size of Central Park, which many people think of as one of the largest parks in the world! So having a guide to follow or knowing what you want to see when you’re there is key. Bosque Chapultapec or Chapultapec Park is actually divided into three sections or “Seccións.” This guide will explore the First section, which is both the oldest portion of the park and contains the most important landmarks.

Key Tips

• As mentioned above, the park is HUGE. Give yourself the entire day if you’re planning on exploring all of the first section.
• Arrive early in the morning, not only to give yourself lots of time to visit but also to avoid the crowds which peak in the afternoon.
• Most of the signage in the park is all in Spanish. Use this guide to help you get the context to understand what you’re seeing. Download the Google Translate app and the Spanish language pack to be able to translte signage with your camera.
• There are no restaurants located inside the park. The only place to eat is at street food stalls, which primarily surround the lake. You can also grab a bite to eat at the Anthropology or Modern Art Museum.
• Chapultepec has a strict no food or beverage policy. That means you can’t even bring in food to eat later in the park. So if you plan on picning, be sure to eat before you enter the castle. They will often search your bags so don’t think you can just hide it.
• Various Museums offer free entry on Sundays. Be sure to check their websites in advance if you’re looking to save some money on entry fees.
• Weekends are by far the busiest time to visit the park. But that is also when most street vendors are out, and the park’s personality shines. Just plan accordingly.

Hours & Access

The park is open from 5 a.m. to 7 p.m Tuesday – Sunday. The First Section of Chapultepec Park is closed on Mondays for maintenance.

To arrive at the proper (and most impressive) entrance to Chapultepec Park, direct your Uber to drop you off in front of the Estela de Luz monument. If you prefer to take the Metro you can take it to Chapultepec Station. From the station’s exit, head north up to Lion’s gate entrance.

The History of Chapultepec Park

Chapultepec Park is situated around Chapultepec Hill, the sacred heart of the city. The Toltecs named the hill “Chapultepec” around the 12 century. The word “Chapultepec” means at the grasshopper hill in the native Nahuatl language of the Toltecs. There is some disagreement among historians whether the name comes from the plethora of grasshoppers that lived in the area or if it was due to the shape of the hill looking like the silhouette of a grasshopper.

At the top of the hill, the Toltecs placed their sacred altar. We know this as there have been remains of this alter excavated at the hill’s summit. The hillside served as a defensive advantage, as it stood looking out of the shores of Lake Texcoco. Despite this advantage, it wouldn’t be along before the Toltecs were overcome.

When the Aztecs conquered the city, they continued to use the hill as a spiritual place. They saw it as a place of power, and it was here that they buried the ashes of their rulers. For this reason, when visiting the park and the palace, we should act very respectfully. Remember you are walking over what was an Aztec graveyard. The various rulers of Mexico City would carve their images onto the eastern side of Chapultepec hill. Thinking this would preserve their memories in stone forever.

The area around the Chapultepec hill was plentiful with freshwater. Monarch Nezahualcoyotl utilized this access to build the first aqueduct that helped direct this freshwater into the city. Nezahualcoyotl loved nature and felt at peace here. He was the first to build a summer palace in the area in 1428. Here he could escape the busy city. Like today, the rich and powerful love escaping countryside mansions.

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Moctezuma II

By the 15th century, the forest was primarily used as a retreat for various Aztec rulers. We have Moctezuma II to thank for so many of the amazing aspects of this park that still exist today. The plentiful trees, plants and waterways around the park were all installed under his watchful eye. Many of the original cypress trees can still be seen today. These are also called “ahuehuete” trees and they mark the ancient outlines of the park. Moctezuma was also the first to build a zoo and arboretum just near the foot of the hill.

One of the most unique aspects of the park you can still visit today is Moctezuma’s Baths. The waters from the aqueducts were channelled into these reservoirs where locals could bathe. Aztecs were a very clean society, with most people bathing at least once a day! There were also several “temazcales” on-site. There were pre-Hispanic saunas and used for ritual cleansing.

The Spanish Invasion

Sadly this period of peace for the Aztecs couldn’t last forever. Here in the forest, the Aztec’s took their last stand against the Spanish in 1521. It was the last stand the Aztec had to save themselves from the eventual conquest. After the land was stolen by the Spanish, Chapultepec Hill and the land around it was given by Cortez over to the Franciscans. The religious order built a temple on the hill. Their attempt to convert the locals over to Christianity by appropriating the Aztec holy site. During this time, the rocks where the Aztec rulers carved their image were destroyed by the Franscian’s. But one stone managed to survive. It depicts Montezuma II’s feathered headdress carrying an omechicahuaztli (a sceptre for rain rituals) in his hand.

Developement of Chapultapec Castle

Chapultepec remained in the hands of the Franciscans for another few hundred years. But in 1785, the church was demolished to make room for a residence for the colonial rulers. This would become Chapultepec Castle. The forest around the castle was to be used as a hunting ground and place for recreation for the upper classes. It was abruptly walled off from the general public. This was such a loss for the people as the sanctuary has been such a meaningful place for hundreds of years.

Even after the Mexican War of Independence, the castle was used as the official residence for the head of state. But happily, the park was opened to the public once more. During the Mexican-American War of 1846, Chapultepec Castle was used as a military academy. It was also used as a political prison. In 1847 it would be the site of another great battle between the Mexican and U.S. troops. During the Second Mexican Empire, the palace transferred hands once. It was given over to the new governor of the city, Maximilian of Habsburg. He transformed it into a truly impressive imperial palace.

Porfirio Díaz Era

Under the rule of the Porfiriato government, the city began to undergo a huge transformation. Porfirio Díaz was obsessed with the idea of turning Mexico City into a European paradise. One of the aspects of his plan involved overhauling the landscape design of the city. He employed José Yves Limantour, Secretary of the Treasury, to revamp the forests around Chapultepec Castle. They installed paved avenues and roads, plazas, fountains, auditoriums and monuments. It was also during this time that large artificial lakes were built.

20th Century

The castle remained in the hands of the government, serving as the presidential residence until 1940. Los Pinos was built at the southwest edge of the park. This new “White House-inspired” neo-classical structure would serve as the new presidential residence and office. Chapultepec Castle was converted into a museum housing relics of the Maximilian era. As well as pieces of history from Mexico’s struggle for independence.

In the 1960s, the park saw its most tremendous modern expansion and construction. The park’s second section was created, and the Pantheon of Dolores was built. The large cemetery a final resting place for the illustrious dead of Mexico’s past. Various modern museums were commissioned. These institutions were a place to show to the locals and the world the cultural heritage of Mexico City. This included the National Museum of Anthropology, the National Gallery of History, the Caracol Museum, and the National Auditorium. There are nine different museums in total located inside the walls of Chapultepec Park.

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Creation of the 3rd Section

The third and final section of the park was created in 1974. The area is primarily a dense forest, that has been declared a Protected Natural Area. In order to combat the growing levels of air pollution, the government developed these protected zones to plant new trees which filter the air. Today, Chapultapec is known as one of the sets of “lungs” which help Mexico City breathe by replenishing oxygen to the city. This part of the park is also a refuge for migratory birds. During the winter, hidden in the trees are birds from Canada the U.S., feeling the cold. But there is also plenty of local wildlife like Mexico’s Cooper hawk, Harris’s hawk, wild ducks, and Vireos, Warblers and Kingfishers.

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Map of Walking Tour

Puerta de Leones

The intricately patterned black iron gates welcome you into Chapultepec Park. But guarding the entrance on either side are these two gigantic lions. This is the great Puerta de Leones or Lion’s Gate of Chapultepec Park. The colossal bronze beasts stand atop granite pedestals, their heads pointing out towards the Paseo de la Reforma. Their eyes keenly open, as if on the lookout for any incoming enemies.

The sculptures were created by French artist Garden and installed here in 1921. They have been greeting friendly visitors ever since. During the big Mexican holidays like Día de Muertos, this gate is often cheerfully decorated with beautiful paper flowers.

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Monument to the Ninos Heroes

Walking through the gates, continue down Avenue Juventud Heroica. The Avenue crosses over the busy Centro Bicentenario highway that you can hear roaring underfoot. At the end of the overpass, you can see the towering columns of the Monument to the Ninos Heroes. As mentioned earlier, Chapultapec Park was the site of the great Mexican American battle of 1847. After being overtaken by the U.S. Army, various cadets who had been defending the palace fled to the inner walls of the castle. Cornered with nowhere to go, six Mexican cadets jumped onto the cliff below. They would rather have died by their own will than be captured or killed by the enemy. Today each one of these six men are honoured within this incredible monument.

The enormous structure was designed by architect Enrique Aragón and sculptor Ernesto Tamariz. Each of the towering six columns features a niche at the base of the pillar. Inside is an urn that contains their ashes. The white columns are capped with the image of the Mexican golden eagle, whose wings reach towards the sky. While the cadets the eagle depicts their divine flight into heaven.

In the centre of the six columns is a large sculpture called the “Altar a la Patria” or Altar to the Homeland. The sculpture depicts a Mexican woman holding the lifeless body of a soldier in one arm. Beside her other arm stands a soldier. He stands tall, seemingly guarding her and the homeland. In honour of those who died guarding her before him.

Petrogrifo de Moctezuma

You’ll find a series of pathways that swirl around the park just beyond the main entrance. Make your way to the enclosure that surrounds the base of the hill. Beyond the fence is a seemingly innocuous rock. This is the Petrogrifo de Moctezuma. These petroglyphs set into the hill’s eastern slope have a series of carvings that you can make out as you look closer. These are the last remaining carvings from the pre-Hispanic rulers. In the top right, you can see the xiuhhuitzolli of Moctezuma II. The xiuhhuitzolli is the turquoise headdress worn by Aztec Mexican royals. The headdress is usually covered in bright blueish-green feathers to symbolize the god Huitzilopochtli. Huitzilopochtli was the god of the sun and the god war. His named means “hummingbird,” which is why the colourful feathers are used in his image.

Ahuehuete “El Sargento”

Continuing around the edge of the hillside, walk along the pathways surrounding the hill. Around the corner is a giant stone memorial, but blocking your initial view of the memorial is a hulking tree trunk. Do not just walk by but take a moment to study the dried-out piece of wood. This is one of the famed Ahuehuete (cypress) trees found inside the park. But this one is extra special. It is called “El Sargento,” as it was planted by Nezahualcoyotl in 1460 on the orders of emperor Moctezuma.

The tree managed to survive for over 500 years, growing up to 40 meters in height. But sadly, it died in 1969. Although these trees are able to live for generations the lack of freshwater, as the ground dried up due to pollution, brought an end to this great tree. A devastating blow to the people of Mexico City. The city created a monument out of the trunk, to preserve what remained for generations to come. It is still a very sacred space for visitors today. And also a warning about pollution and the destruction it can bring.

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Memorial Squadron 201

The enormous stone memorial behind the tree is dedicated to the Mexican 201st Fighter Squadron. This aerial army was initially formed when Mexico came to the aid of the Allies during World War II. During their initial training in Texas, they were nicknamed the “Aztec Eagles,” a name they wore with pride. Despite the historical conflict between Mexico and the USA, they managed to come together in this monumental moment in time. Together, they were able to defeat Japanese troops invading the Philippines. Their Squadron was given credit for keeping 30,000 Japanese troops out of action and destroying enemy-held buildings, vehicles, anti-aircraft guns, and the all-important ammunition depots. The memorial was built to remember the fallen soldiers of the wars as well as the survivors of the military expedition to the Philippines.

Cincalco Cavern

To the left of the memorial is a little path that wraps around the back. Behind here is where you’ll find a little hidden zen garden called the Audiorama. But historically, this area has been one of the most sacred spaces in Mexico City for generations. During the pre-Hispanic period, this place was the entrance to the Cincalco Cavern. The Aztecs believed that these caves were portals between the living and the dead. It was here, many believed, that Tláloc, the god of water, lived.

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In 1162, Huémac, the last Toltec governor, committed suicide after his people were defeated and his city fell. He felt he had failed them and it was here he wished to pass on, submit himself to the will of the gods. Perhaps with his sacrifice, his people would be spared. In modern times, the cave has been sealed off for security reasons. But you can still see the arched entrance that once led inside the hill. The garden is surrounded by an array of wild plants, fruit trees, small rose bushes, and calla lilies.

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Audiorama

In the 1970s, the city decided to revamp the space as a modernized “sacred space” for the residents. It was designed as an outdoor library to read. A series of colourful benches spread out throughout the enclosure provided comfort under the trees. But to enhance the experience, music is pipped into the forest throughout the day through a series of little hidden speakers.

There are different types of music played on different days of the week. On Tuesdays, you get new age, traditional Mexican rhythms on Wednesdays, melodies from Spain, Greece or Brazil on Thursdays, jazz on Fridays, chill out for Saturdays and classical music on Sundays. The Audiorama is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 am to 4 pm. Please respect the silence requested upon entering this part of the park as this is a place for rest and relaxation.

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Chapultepec Castle Hill

Head back the way you came and make your way to the ramp leading to Chapultapec Castle.

Hours and Admission

You need to buy your admission tickets at the booth at the bottom of the hill. Be sure to do this BEFORE you head up the ramp, which leads to the castle. There is nowhere at the top of the hill to buy tickets. The walk is fairly long and steep, and on a hot day, it would be torturous to have to head all the way back down. We saw dozens of people that had this problem and their dejected faces were so sad. So be sure you don’t make this same mistake. The line for the tickets moves very quickly but if you plan on visiting at the absolute peak of the season you should arrive early to beat the crowds.

Hours: 9 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Sunday. Closed on Mondays.
Admission: 85 pesos (US$4) per person. Tickets are free for children under 13 and seniors over 60 years old. Teachers and students with valid credentials and people with disabilities also can get in free.
Be sure to bring some cash as often the machines are often down and tickets are cash only.

After purchasing your ticket, you need to climb the winding hill that encircles the palace. While the pathway is mostly smooth, for anyone with mobility issues, the incline can be tiring. The walk is especially difficult due to the high elevation in Mexico City. It can be slightly harder to catch your breath. Take it slow; there’s no need to rush. In fact, the walk up the hill provides some incredible views across the park and the city. Make sure you drink plenty of water. Even on what might feel like a cooler day, you still can get dehydrated just from the elevation.

Museo del Caracol

Near the top of the ramp, before arriving at the Castle, you’ll approach the Museo del Caracol. A ‘Caracol’ is a snail, as the museum’s exterior is designed to replicate the shape of a sea snail. Inside, to view the exhibitions within, you descend down a spiral staircase, also mirroring the swirl of a snail’s shell. The windows that line the edge of the staircase are filled with dioramas. Each one tells a story relating to the history of Mexico City. From the end of the viceroyalty to the Constitution of 1917.

As the admission is only 80 pesos (US$4), I think it’s well worth a quick look through. There is something about dioramas that really helps bring the country’s history alive. Even if you can’t understand the narration, the scenes are so expressive that you can really get a sense of what’s happening. I think some people might think the museum is a bit cheap and cheesy but I really enjoy all those dollhouse-like detailed scenes.

Hours: 9 am to 4 pm Tuesday to Sunday
Admission: $80 pesos per person. Tickets are free for children under 13 and seniors over 60 years old. Teachers and students with valid credentials and people with disabilities also can get in free.

Chapultepec Castle

The castle itself is divided into two sections; the Museum of Anthropology on the left side and the Palace (or Alcazar) interiors on the right. The Museum of Anthropology is housed inside the former Military College. The collection is a wonderful way to physically see the history of Mexico City, from the time of the conquest until the 20th century, come alive in front of you. Clothing, paintings, objects and elements of everyday life are all on display. My favourite part of this section of the castle has to be their collection of murals. The expressive Mexican murals bring historical events into three dimensions despite being painted on a two-dimensional surface.

The Alcázar portion of the building is where you’ll find various rooms inside the palace still decored as they could have been in the 19th century. During this period the castle was occupied by emperors Maximiliano and Carlota and thereafter President Porfirio Díaz and his wife Carmen Romero Rubio. It is incredible to see how the spaces change as the hands of ownership change. For a complete guide of the Castle Museum check out our full tour here.

Street Food

After finishing up at the castle, walk back the hill towards Avenue H. Colegio Militar. This road will weave its way through the forest towards the best lookout point across Chapultepec Lake. This avenue is absolutely packed with street vendors! Although there is a larger “food court” beside the lake, I would avoid this area. Perhaps since they have more permanent booths, the food can be left inside and therefore isn’t of the highest quality. But the food vendors that flank the roadways are really delicious. So stick with them! These might not be as filling as the meals on offer in the food court area, but you’re better off with a safe bet.

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Guide to Street Snacks

Below are a few of my favourite street snacks so you can keep your eyes out for these reliably delicious traditional treats.

• Chicharron: deep-fried pigskin doused in chilli sauce and freshly squeezed lime juice. Duritos: Duritos (not to be mixed up with Doritos) are a wheat-based pinwheel-shaped snack topped with hot sauce and lime.
• Dorilocos: If you’re looking for something more like a meal, find your way to the Dorilocos vendor. This dish is made by taking a bag of Doritos and slicing it down the long edge, so it opens like a bowl. Then they top it with Mexican radish, shredded cucumber and carrot and Japanese peanuts. Then, of course, it’s topped with lime juice and hot sauce on top. 
• Papas: freshly made potato chips served with hot sauce and lime.

• Paletas: frozen fruit bars made with fresh and natural ingredients. They are made with either milk or fruit juice base. My favourite has got to the mango and chilli!
• Tamarind Candies: Look for brands like Tama-Roco, Pulparindo or Pelón Pelo Rico. There is also Salsaghetti which is watermelon candy in the shape of spaghetti noodles covered with tamarind sauce. 
• La Molienda: coconut candy bar in the colour of the Mexican flag.
• Vero Mango: mango-flavoured candy covered in chile powder.
• Slaps Lollipop: Mexican fruit roll-ups that taste just like a jolly rancher!
• Mazapanes de la Rosa: A peanut-based sweet
• Pepitoria: crunchie wafers filled with honey or caramel, and decorated with pumpkin seeds.

El Lago de Chapultepec

After all those snacks, a great way to burn off some calories is with a pedal around El Lago de Chapultepec. This man-made lake is one of the most picturesque places to take a little blue paddle boat and take in the scenery. The views from the middle of the lake are fantastic and even look out at the Colonia Polanco. The boats cost 60 pesos/hour (around the U.S. $3). Normally, such a touristy activity would price gouge visitors but not here in the park. The locals enjoy a ride as much as the tourists, so prices are kept low to ensure everyone can enjoy a day out!

The Casa del Lago

While paddling on the Lake, you have a fantastic view of the Casa del Lago, the Chapultapec Lake House. The house was built in the 1900s as President Porfirio Diaz‘s summer mansion. Today it serves as the UNAM (Mexico’s National Autonomous University) Chapultapec cultural center.

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Librería Porrúa

If you don’t feel like grabbing a bite to eat from the street vendors, you can head up to the Librería Porrúa. This charming bookstore library is located just on the edge of Chapultepec Park. In addition to a wonderful selection of books, there is a coffee shop inside. You’ll find here a super delicious selection of coffee, snacks, paninis, and more. Plus if it’s a really hot day, its a lovely spot to come and cool off.

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Jardín Botánico del Bosque de Chapultepec

From here, lets pop into the Jardín Botánico del Bosque de Chapultepec. While the roped off garden beds and greenhouse might feel modern, these nurseys have been here since the days of Moctezuma. When the Spanish first arrived in Mexico they were amazed by these royal gardens they saw. So much so that they would write home about the incredible plants they found.

The Aztecs had some of the most diverse and exotic gardens. They were filled with medicinal plants for healing wounds. Herbs for cooking as well as fragrant flowers just there for their beauty.

The Botanical gardens we find here today were inaugurated in 2006 over a 5-hectare protected area. Covering the land area are over 400 different plants and trees. The garden is divided into different themes based on the different kind of plants. There are the pollinators, the edible plants, the succulents and the wetland plants. Plus 14 different species of wild dahlias, cacti and agave.

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Orquideario Bosque de Chapultepec

Towards the back of the Botanical Garden you’ll find the glimmering stained glass rooftop that leads you inside the Orquideario Bosque de Chapultepec. This 500-square-meter greenhouse was built in the 1940s and contains stunning examples of Mexican art deco design. The huge barrel domed ceiling runs the entire length of the greenhouse.

The vibrant Aztec inspired stained glass design casting beautiful rainbows of light down on the flower and ferms below. Inside the humid glasshouse, you can find their precious collection of orchid. s is maintained.

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Botanical Garden Open: 9 am to 6 pm Tuesday to Sunday | Orchid Garden Open: 9 am to 3 pm

Museo Nacional de Antropología

For the rest of the afternoon, there are a few different museums that you can explore. If you’ve never been to Mexico, let alone Mexico City before, the Museo Nacional de Antropología is a wonderful place to learn more about the country’s history. The museum contains significant archaeological and anthropological artifacts from Mexico’s pre-Columbian heritage. It is considered a national treasure and a symbol of Mexico’s identity.

Stone of the Sun

One of the most significant pieces of the collection is the Stone of the Sun or the Aztec calendar stone. This sizeable circular stone carving weighs 24,590 kg and is over 141 inches wide! It dates back to approximate the beginning of the 16th century. The Stone of the Sun was so precious to the people of Tenochtitlan that after the Spanish invaded, they buried the stone under the Zocalo. In the hopes that hiding it there would keep it safe.

The Stone was only discovered in 1790 when repairs were required under the new Mexico City Cathedral. After the discovery, the church actually mounted the stone on the building’s exterior. There it remained for almost a hundred years. Perhaps as a way to convince unconverted Mexicans over to the Christianity. Finally, in 1885, it was moved to the new Archaeological Museum inside the El Chopo Musuem in Colonia Santa María la Ribera. It remained there until the opening of this museum.

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Architecture of Museo Nacional de Antropología

If you only see the design of the building from the front facade you might think the building is rather simple and austere. The white bricked facade is devoid of any decoration save for the central medallion featuring a stone carving of the eagle of Mexico City with a serpent in its mouth. But to see the real architectural treasure you need to head inside towards the back courtyard. The building was designed in 1964 by Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, Jorge Campuzano, and Rafael Mijares Alcérreca. The courtyard features a huge concrete umbrella supported by a single slender pillar (known as “el paraguas,” Spanish for “the umbrella”). Water pours down from the umbrella into the vast square pond below. It’s one of the most impressive structures I’ve ever seen and the sound of the rain falling is hypnostizing.

Open: 10 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Saturday, Closed Mondays
Admission: Permanent exhibition $85 pesos (US $4)
To use a video camera, you must get a permit and pay a fee of $45 pesos.

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Museo de Arte Moderno

Right beside the Botanical Gardens is the Museo de Arte Moderno. The Museum of Modern art contains the largest collections of Mexican art from the 20th century. The museum was built in 1963 under the guise of architect and designer Pedro Ramírez Vázquez and Rafael Mijares. Even without all the artwork, this museum is a wonder to explore.

It’s collection features work from José Chávez Morado, David Alfaro Siqueiros, José Clemente Orozco and Remedios Varo. But most famously, it owns a few precious paintings by Frida Kahlo. Frida Kahlo produced a relatively small oeuvre, and getting to see one of her paintings in real life is an exceptional experience. Her surrealist self-portrait ‘Las dos Fridas‘ is one of her most impactful pieces. This piece was painted shortly after her divorce from fellow Mexican artist Diego Rivera. It was a means for her to process the depression and loneliness she experience after the divorce.

Open: 11 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Saturday, Closed Mondays
Admission: $65 pesos (US $3)

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Zoológico de Chapultepec

If you’re travelling with children, instead of a museum, a visit to the Zoológico de Chapultepec is a great alternative. While adults might give it a miss (as there aren’t really any uniquely “Mexico-City” aspects to the zoo) it’s always a hit with kids. Plus, admission is free for everyone! This is a huge bonus since activities with kids can get really expensive. The only part of the zoo that requires an entry fee is the butterfly house (US$3.50). There are many classic zoo animals to see here. Everything from lions, rhinos, monkeys, tigers, and, most famously, their great Chinese Panda .

But if you’re going to visit, my best advice is to be sure to see the Xoloitzcuintle. The Xoloitzcuintle is a hairless dog native to Mexico. The name ‘Xoloitzcuintle‘ is from the Nahuatl languagee and is derived from the word ‘Xolotl’ who was the god of fire and lightning. ‘Itzcuīntli‘ was the Nahuatl word for “dog,” for it basically translates to “God’s dog.”

Open: 9 am to 4:30 pm Tuesday to Sunday
Admission is free

La Casa de la Bici Bosque de Chapultepec

If museums aren’t your thing, a wonderful way to explore the rest of the park is by bike. The park’s winding back routes and pathways are sprawling! To see it all, the best way is to hop on a bike. You can pick up a rental bike from the central Casa de la Bici in the southwest corner of the park. This place rents out bikes for 70 pesos per hour (the U.S. $3.30) or 100 pesos (the U.S. $4.80) for two hours. You are required to leave a valid photo I.D. with them to ensure you return with the bike. Don’t leave anything important like your passport, but a driver’s licence or even a health card will be OK. Most of the bikes have adorable white baskets on the front. Perfect for storing your treats or backpacks so you can bike around unimpeded.

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Fuente del Quijote

Whether you’re cruising around on the bike or just walking on foot, here are a few other stops you might want to make around the park. Just north of the bike rental house is the Fuente del Quijote. A ‘Fuente‘ is the Spanish word for fountain. The ‘Fountain of Don Quixote‘ dates back to 1921 and it is one of the most incredible fountains in the entire park. The rather small central fountain with four central mermaids is surrounded by four stone benches covered in handpainted tiles. Each of the hundreds of tiles features detailed images from the book Don Quixote de la Mancha by Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra. By looking at each one you could easily piece together the entire story.

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Restoration of the Fountain

Sadly, in 2015 the fountain was severely vandalized. Two statues of famous painter Salvador Dalí and Mexican master Diego Rivera were both stolen, never to be seen since. Many of the tiles were also taken or partially destroyed. The figures actually have a history of thievery. They were first made by Spanish sculptor Miguel Alessio Robles by stolen in 1974. So they were replaced by another set made by José María Fernández Urbina. Unfortunately, these would be sentenced to the same fate.

But thanks to public donations, the entire fountain is on its way to looking brand new once more! You can even make a donation yourself! A great way to support the park and preserve it for generations to come. Donations can be as little as 200 pesos (US$10), and it really goes a long way ! While you can’t entre the enclosure while restoring are underway, you can peek inside to get a sneak peek at once was. Plus you can even see the artists at work throughout the week, hard at work hand painting tiles.

Poets’ Causeway

Off to the east from the Fuente del Quijote is the Calzada De la Poetas or Poets’ Causeway. Along this stretch of the pathway are a series of busts of famous poets from the 19th and 20th centuries. The statues include Doña Inés de Asbaje y Ramírez de Santillana, better known as Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz OSH. Doña Inés was a Mexican writer, philosopher, composer and poet of the Baroque period. And to top it all off she was even a Hieronymite nun. Salvador Díaz Mirón was a Mexican poet known for his passionate, romantic style, influenced by Lord Byron and Victor Hugo. Manuel José Othón was a Mexican poet, playwright, and politician. One of his most famous works is Idilio Salvaje, considered one of the most representative poems of Mexico. You can read a part of this poem on the small plaque beside his bust.

Carrusel De Chapultepec

Through the forest, to the west of the park, is the hidden away Carrusel De Chapultepec. Although this is meant for kids, I’m a sucker for a beautiful carousel. And this one is no exception. The amazing double-decker Carrusel De Chapultepec is a relatively new addition to the park. It was moved here in 2018 from its original location in Alameda Central. But its history is much older. Before its life in Mexico City, the carousel was once in Chicago but first made in Venice! Look up along the ceiling and roof that encircles the carousel. There, you can see intricately painted vignettes featuring scenes from life in Venice. An automatic piano plays music as the carousel spins, with over 1,800 spotlights twinkling as it turns round and round.

Open: Tuesday to Sunday.
Admission: $18 pesos (less than US$1) to ride. Adults can sit in the wooden benches on the first level.

Fuente de las Ranas

At the intersection of Avenue H. Colegio Militar and Calz. Mahatma Gandhi is the Fuente de las Ranas. The Fuente de las Ranas or Fountain of the Frogs is an exact replica of a fountain of the same name in Seville. When Spanish lawyer Miguel Alessio Robles was named the Mexican minister in 1921, he ordered the fountain to be made. He wanted to bring to Mexico City a piece of his home country.

The fountain was first installed at the park entrance but has since been moved towards the back of the park. The fountain is covered in beautiful Sevillian tiles. Surrounding the outer edge is a series of eight rotund golden painted frogs. Their open mouths spraying water towards the bronze duck and tortoise who sit in the centre of the fountain. The duck sits atop the turquoise with its mouth pointing upwards, shooting water from its mouth into the air. It’s such a playful fountain and a wonderful addition to the park. It’s these little gems that make wandering the pathways so endearing.

Monumental Fuente de Nezahualcóyotlht

Opposite the Fuente de las Ranas is the entrance to best fountain of them all; the Monumental Fuente de Nezahualcóyotl. Nezahualcóyotl is a name we’ve heard before as his impact in the history book, as well as in Chapultepec park was immense! Nezahualcóyotl was the monarch of the city-state of Texcoco in ancient Mexico from 1429 to 1472. He was known as a great poet in addition to a fantastic scholar and wonderful architect. His name means the “fasting coyote,” as fasting was considered a form of sacrifice. Some monarchs would do to attempt to appease the gods and aid their people. If you look for one of the old Mexican 100 peso bill you can see his face. Along with his portrait is one of his most cherished poems. It goes;

I love the song of the mockingbird,
Bird of four hundred voices,
I love the colour of the jadestone,
And the intoxicating scent of flowers,
But more than all, I love my brother, man.

Nezahualcóyotl

Nezahualcóyotl’s Dam

The Monumental Fuente de Nezahualcóyotl is by far the largest of all the fountains in the park. The fountain begins to emerge from the edge of the forest, and covers 1,250 square meters. Flowing like a vein up to the central square and domineering statue at the end of the wall-like fountain. It was made by sculptor Luis Ortiz Monasterio in 1956. The shape of the fountain was inspired by Nezahualcóyotl’s Dam. Nezahualcóyotl was instructed by Moctezuma I to construct a dam over 16 km long. The dam was to be used to defend against the flood waters which plagued the ancient Tenochtitlan (Mexico city). Nezahualcóyotl was also responsible for the aqueducts in Chapultepec forest that supplied Tenochtitlan with safe drinking water. This work earned him the reputation of the best architect in the Americas.

Monasterio’s fountain-like dam was inspired by the pre-hispanic architectural styles of the 15th century. Entering this area, you are greeted by a fantastic carving of a giant coyote. The coyote has his mouth open wide, a menacing smile, with water gushing forth. Water also flows out of the hundreds of carved medallions along the top of the wall. Once one carved from black stone from Xaltocan.

Statue and Life Reliefs of Nezahualcóyotl

Along the facade of the fountain you’ll find eight large bas reliefs. Each one depicts a scene from the life of Nezahualcóyotl. The first relief shows Nezahualcóyotl’s birth, the death of his father, his battles for the territory, the arrival of water to Chapultepec and his death in 1472.

The sculpture in the centre of the square is of Nezahualcóyotl himself, standing nine meters tall. Watching over his beloved park forever. Behind him is a wall made of volcanic stones with three symbols emblazoned up the facade. Each of the symbols refers to the three tribes of indigenous peoples that inhabited the Valley of Mexico; the Texcoco, Tenochitlán and Tlacopan. It is a wonderful place to end the tour, to remember that this space was one a sacred site for the indigenous peoples and we are lucky to still be able to enjoy this green oasis today.

Chapultepec Park is truly a must-visit if you’re in Mexico City. It’s not only the perfect place to enjoy a peaceful day out, but also where you can learn a lot about Mexican culture and history. Make the effort to carve out the time to really appreciate the beauty of this sprawling natural sanctum.

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post Ultimate Guide to Chapultepec Park: Historical and Cultural Heart of Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

One of the things you’ll really notice about Roma Sur is the community involvement here. From environmental initiatives to community growth and artistic projects. This part of town seems to aim to transform seemingly everyday spaces to benefit the people there. They don’t want to cover every street corner with trendy restaurants and cafes. These end up primarily benefiting tourists. They want to make life for the residents who live here as beautiful and liveable it possibly can be!

This guided tour of Roma Sur will have you feeling like a local! It covers the best sights and hidden gems inside the veins of his vibrant part of Mexico City. Plus, you’ll get to indulge in some of Roma Sur‘s best culinary delights, too!

Table Of Contents

1. Location
2. History of Colonial Roma
3. Where to Stay
4. Map of Walking Tour
5. Le Babüin
6. Ecoducto Río Piedad 
7. Parroquía de la Divina Providencia
8. Serenna Restaurante & Café Gourmet
9. Borona Lonchería
10. El Hidalguense
11. Mercado Medellin
12. Por Siempre Vegana
13. Tienda Trama
14. Garden Huerto Roma Verde
15. Mercado 100
16. Benito Juárez Elementary School
17. Tamales Doña Emi
18. Tepeji #22
19. Cine Tonalá
20. Lulu Gallery
21. Comedor de los Milagros

Location

The neighbourhood of Roma is located south of the Paseo de la Reforma. And just below the Historic City Centre. Roma’s central location makes it an ideal place for tourists. From here you can easily reach all the best spots in the city in no time! The Colonial Roma is so large that the area has been divided into the North and South. Avenue Yucatan is the main street that separates Roma Norte and Roma Sur. The southern boundary of the Colonia Roma Sur is formed by the new Rio de la Piedad Street Viaduct.

History of Colonial Roma

Roma was one of the first upper-class neighbourhoods built in Mexico City. And I don’t just mean built in the 20th century. In 1529, the area that now makes up Roma was granted to Hernán Cortés by the Spanish Crown. During the colonial period, the Counts of Miravalle continued to control the area. This brought in more and more wealthy Spainairds into the neighbourhood. And with them the need for lavish residences.

Eduardo Walter Orrin

But it wasn’t until the 19th century that we start to see the creation of the Roma we find today. And we have the strangest person to thank for the overall look and feel of the neighbourhood. And that is Englishman Eduardo Walter Orrin. Orrin made his wealth in the Circus of all places. The Orrin Circus arrived in Mexico City in 1872 after touring the US and South America.

The circus was a HUGE success in Latin America. It was so popular that Orrin was able to afford to build a permanent venue. The circus operated inside, what is now the Teatro Blanquita in the Centro Histórico, for over 26 years! When Eduardo Orrin finally closed the circus, he turned his eyes on real estate development. And there was no place more promising than the area just south of the historic centre…what we know today as Roma!

The Creation of Roma

In the late 19th century, the wealthy elite of Mexico City were fleeing the crumbling Centro Histórico. The Centro Histórico was literally sinking into the ground and the old architecture was deteriorating rapidly. The aristocracy of Mexico City were looking for wide-open spaces in which to build their mansions. They dreamt of modern, colonial architecture. Orrin, whose circus operated in the historic centre, heard these cries. So Orrin went about purchasing land to the south.

The name “Roma” was also Orrin’s idea and came from Circo Romano (Roman Circus.) Although somewhat dissimilar to today’s circus, the Roman Circus was the inspiration for his own money-making enterprise. Even the streets around Roma were inspired by the circus. Many of the roads were named after the Mexican cities where the Orrin Circus had travelled. You’ll find Puebla, Oxaca, Colima, Córdoba, Morelia and more!

Porfirio Era

Porfirio Diaz and his government were also interested in aiding the creation of this upper-class neighbourhood. The president was enthralled with the European cities he visited on his travels. He longed to make Mexico City as impressive as those European cities he so badly envied. Diaz and his government provided rich and modern infrastructure to the new colonial. This included running water lines and sewers. Sewers were a truly modern convenience that, at the time, only was available in the Roma neighbourhood!

Roma soon became a European aristocratic enclave. Inspired by the elegant boulevards of Paris, the street in Roma were widened. And many of the main streets were installed with double rows of trees. Medians were built in the centre of the roads to provide relaxing pedestrian walkways. In the 1940s and 1950s, the area drew in the best of the best of Mexico City. Artists, businessmen and politicians arrived in style. Famous chilangos such as Álvaro Obregón, David Alfaro Siqueiros and former president Mexico Luis Echeverría all found themselves living within these “walls”. 

The Great Downfall of Roma

But in the 1950s, after WWII, the city began instituting lower rent regulations in these neighbourhoods. This act brought in more lower-class residents. The wealthier class railed against these newcomers, and many started to leave the area. More exclusive and luxurious areas like Polanco began to pop up. Drawing the remainder of the upper class out of Roma for good.

In addition to the new residents, taller buildings began to pop up around the colonial mansion. “Ruining” the look of the peaceful “town,” causing a further exodus. But the tall buildings weren’t just an eyesore; they were unknowing starting to disturb the ground below them.

This all came to a head on September 19th, 1985, at seven in the morning. An earthquake with a magnitude of 8.0 hit Mexico City. Thousands of buildings were levelled, and over 10,000 people lost their life. In Roma alone, 472 buildings were partially or entirely collapsed. The neighbourhood fell into complete disrepair. The population declined from 95,000 inhabitants in 1970 to 35,000 in 1995.

Reconstruction efforts were slow in these lower-class neighbourhoods. Regulations were put into place that no new apartment buildings could be constructed or older constructions adapted. This was to ensure the area remained intact until it could be repaired. But, by happy accident, this ended up preserving the remaining historic buildings for future residents and travellers.

The Renaissance of Roma

In the last 10 years, the area has started to slowly become more and more gentrified. We are witnessing the rebirth and renaissance of Colonial Roma. But things have been a bit slower in Roma Sur. This part of town still shows the scars of the earthquake. But with those scars, comes the preservation of the traditional way of life. There are more mom-and-pop restaurants, open for generations around here. Marketplaces that the town has grown around instead of the other way around. There is no doubt, Roma Sur feels more like the real heart of the old colonia.

Where to Stay

Airbnb

If you’d like to stay in Roma Sur, there are fewer options than in the north part of the neighbourhood. Airbnb offers many low-cost options in this area of town, with rooms for as little as $50-$70 a night for an entire apartment. But you should never forget that Airbnb has been slightly problematic in Mexico City. You are causing rent inflation and apartment shortages for locals. If you want to use Airbnb, try to look for a listing where the host does not have multiple properties. This suggests that they are not just a multi-unit proprietor who could even be an international owner.

Look for a listing from someone who lives in the neighbourhood but is just looking to make some money on their unit when they aren’t in town. Also, be sure to do your best to give as much of your time and money into the neighbourhood. To ensure you are continuing to support the hyper-local community.

Ignacia $$$

Ignacia Guest House is technically located in Roma Norte but is just on the edge of the Southern borders. Under the purple blossoms of the Jacaranda tree lining the streets, you will be welcomed home. The house was originally an old 20th-century mansion that has been transformed into just six elegant suites. Since there are so few rooms, everyone who stays here feels like family.

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Each suite is designed differently, blending history and Mexican artisan tradition with contemporary design. In fact, Ignacia Guest House has been internationally acclaimed for its interior design, architecture, and restoration. During the day, guests can abandon their daily routine and enjoy the historical details, gardens, and spaces. They can have breakfast at the communal tables or in the garden under an orange tree in the morning. Book well in advance as the rooms are highly coveted by anyone in the know who visits Mexico City.

Hotel Boutique Roma 191

Hotel Roma 191 is a gorgeous boutique hotel specializing in elegance and comfort. It wanted to harness the spirit and history of various famous artists. They created six unique rooms inspired by those artists’ work. The result is one of the most unique and relaxing places to stay in Roma Sur. With only six rooms in the entire hotel, this truly feels like a homey environment.

Map of Walking Tour

Le Babüin

The best place to start the day is with a good cup of coffee. Head to the southernmost part of the neighbourhood to Le Babüin cafe. This adorable coffee shop, named after the baboon in their logo, is a perfect slice of morning cheer. The staff are so friendly, and the caffeine that drips out of the espresso machines is first class. The sign above their door translates into the quote, “Everyone should believe in something. I think I’ll have another coffee.” Love it.

Ecoducto Río Piedad 

Grab your coffee to go and walk south along C. Chilpancingo until you can see the big highway ahead. “A highway?” You might think. “Really? That’s where we’re headed next.” And yes, but there is something extraordinary about this particular part of the Mexico City roadway. Walking halfway across the large overpass, stop in the middle of the road. Here you’ll see a long, plant-incrusted walkway called the Ecoducto Río Piedad.

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A Living Purifier

If you’ve ever travelled to New York, you’ll have heard of the high-line. A 1.45-mile-long elevated green park created on a former New York Central Railroad. Well, this is the same kind of concept here in Mexico City. This pedestrian path is surrounded on both sides by trees and aquatic plants. You’ll see people out for a run or walking their dogs. All the while meandering along atop one of the busiest highways in the city. The entire path extends from Chilpancingo metro to Monterrey Avenue with over 4,800 square meters of vegetation dotted across the path.

But the Ecoducto isn’t just a pretty pathway; it has an essential purpose. This is a recovered public space, with a system that cleans the polluted water out of the Piedad River. The water is piped in, and the living ecosystem atop the cement is fed by the water and purifies it in the process. The entire system captures 50 tons of carbon per year. And pumps out about 1% of the drainage water in Mexico City. While that might not seem like a lot, it is a step in the right direction. Hopefully, in the future, they will be able to create more of these beautiful systems that serve the environment and the community.

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Parroquía de la Divina Providencia

Head out of the Ecoducto via the next overpass and continue north along C. Manzanillo. This leisurely walk with your coffee provides one of the best examples of the simple beauty of the neighbourhood. The emerald green canopy of leafy trees above you protects you from the bright morning sun. Locals mull about getting their morning groceries or calling on the local tamale biker.

Turn left on Quintana Roo to reach the humble Parroquía de la Divina Providencia. This neighbourhood church is a perfect example of Spanish Revival architecture in the Colonia Roma Sur. It is such a sweet little church, often with lovely ladies sitting outside the front gates. They sit outside, selling trinkets to raise money for the parish. An excellent place to drop in and study the fantastic murals inside if there isn’t a service going on. In such a modest church, it’s incredible to see the floor-to-ceiling mural painted on the back of the church’s nave. 

Serenna Restaurante & Café Gourmet

Head back to C. Manzanillo you reach Tlaxcala street. On the corner is this Alice in Wonderlandesque restaurant. Serenna Restaurante & Café Gourmet is famous for its hanging flowers that drape the restaurant’s entire exterior. The cafe is inspired by the TV show ‘Gossip Girl‘ and its main character Serena van der Woodsen! Truly one of those oddities you would never expect to find in Mexico City, but here it is! Personally, I like sitting out on the patio with one of their gourmet coffees. And prefer to save my stomach for brunch at our following location. But there is no doubt; this place is an Instagrammers dream!

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Borona Lonchería

Walk one block north to Aguascalientes and head inside Borona Lonchería. Borona Lonchería pops up along a bit of slice of businesses along Aguascalientes street. The small cafe has an incredible brunch menu. Their thick-cut french toast with fresh berries is definitely droll-worthy or my favourite, the Chilaquiles con huevos. If you prefer, you can also peruse their to die pastry cabinet to try a little bit of everything. This place is pet-friendly, so often, you’ll find townies with their furry friends parked up along the patio. And if you’re like me and miss your dog when you’re travelling, this place is your opportunity to sneak a few pets in

El Hidalguense

If you’re in town on Friday, Saturday or Sunday do you need to check out El Hidalguense! El Hidalguense is one of the top traditional Mexican restaurants in the entire city. The restaurant’s classic, old-world interior design makes you feel like you’re stepping back in time. And the dishes are made to bring your taste buds right back there with you. The restaurant specializes in barbacoa (barbeque) lamb tacos which send anyone drooling upon entering the restaurant.

This restaurant is only open on the weekends because the process takes all week to ensure the meat is perfectly cooked. The method of preparation dates all the way back to pre-Columbian times. They begin by digging a hole in the ground and covering it with heated stones. The stones heat the hole for an entire day before the core temperate is hot enough to cook the meat.

After this, the prepared sheep is wrapped in maguey leaves. The leaves give the meat insulation from the hot stones and flavour the meat while it cooks. The oven is then covered in the same leaves and a layer of earth. A fire is lit on top, and the meat is left to cook for around 12 hours or more. The result is incredible and a must–order from El Hidalguense. The atmosphere here is like walking into a huge family party, that has already gotten underway. Families gather to share large platters of slow-cooked meat. Even visitors like you will feel like family by the end of the meal.

Mercado Medellin

Now that you’re all fueled up, it’s time to venture into the most important spot in Roma Sur, the Mercado Medellin. There is no doubt that this market is the community’s beating heart. Mercado Medellín, or Medellin Market, is my favourite farmer’s market in all of Mexico City. Not only is the marketplace large enough to feature everything you’d want in one place, it somehow still retains that friendly neighbourhood atmosphere. The market never feels too crowded and definitely not like it’s only there for the tourists. Shopping here makes you feel like a local and allows you to experience an authentic Mexican market.

History

The Mercado Medellín is easily identifiable by its red, green and yellow geometric painted exterior. Lookout on one side for a huge, decorated multicolour mural. This marketplace has stood here for over 150 years. When the market was first established, it was in the centre of an immigrant community in Mexico City. Colombians, Cubans, Brazilian, Venezuelans and even Jewish immigrants all found themselves in the middle of the city in a neighbourhood now called Roma Sur.

The immigrants would import food and goods from their home country to sell here in their new home in Mexico City. Up until the earthquake of 1985, Jewish Mexicans owned and operated the market. But after the quake, its ownership passed hands over to the Cubans, therein earning the market its nickname; “Little Havana.”

The entire marketplace is now home to over 500 different stalls. While you can have a blast just wandering around on your own, check out our complete guided tour if you want to know the best shops to visit! And what you NEED to buy

Por Siempre Vegana

Right across the street from the market is one of the precious few vegan taquerias in the city. Por Siempre Vegana or Forever Vegan, located along Coahuila Street, prides itself on making traditional-style Mexican tacos without the meat! Being a vegan visitor in Mexico City is definitely getting more and more accessible over the years and places like this are the reason! Even if you’re a meat-eater it’s worth checking out. It’s impressive to see the techniques and ingredients they use to create these incredible dishes.

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Tienda Trama

Further east along Coahuila Street is the joyful interiors of Tienda Trama. This shop is cooperative, meaning that everything you find here is made by a series of different local craftspeople and designers. So even if a smaller producer couldn’t afford to open their own shop, they can still sell their products direct to the customers. You can find everything from embroideries, ceramics, hand-made contemporary arts, kids’ clothes, and beautiful jewelry. All locally made and giving back to the community.

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I’m obsessed with buying mugs everywhere I travel. They feel like the perfect “souvenir” as it’s something I use every day. Pulling a mug out of the cabinet makes me so happy as I remember my travels I took to find it. A mug with one of their custom coffee blends makes the best gift to bring home! It has local flare without feeling too much like a cliche souvenir.

Garden Huerto Roma Verde

Continuing east along Coahuila, walk until you reach the large intersection at Avenue Yucatan.. Across the street, on the east side, you will be able to spot a bright blue column. This giant structure is made of old water jugs that form the monumental entrance to the Huerto Roma Verde. Huerto Roma Verde is a cultural centre made from the recovered property once destroyed by the 1985 earthquake. The land was abandoned for 27 years and used as a dumping ground. But Paco Ayala, who initiated the project, saw the 8,000 square feet as an opportunity. He saw the space as a place for regrowth and environmental education through art.

The self-managed community found inside these walls was created by grassroots environmental activists. It began as a small shared vegetable garden. Where residents who lived in small apartments without outdoor space could come and grow their own fresh food. From there, it grew to have a storage tower to collect rainwater, a recycling centre for solid waste and even several farm animals! Their aim is to focus on sustainability and promote the development of communities that are integrated into their local environments.

Much of the space is designed to be an urban garden with mind-bending art sculptures created within the living environment. While you can wander the space and just appreciate the artworks, you can also stop into the various pop-up businesses. They sell everything from organic cosmetics, vegan desserts and fresh coffee. There is also a small amphitheatre that frequently hosts musical performances. So be sure to poke your head around to see what you can find!

Mercado 100

On the corner of Orizaba and C. Antonio M. Anza, just down the street, is the Mercado 100. The Mercado 100 is held every Sunday. It is one of the most unique markets you’ll find anywhere in the city. What makes the Mercado 100 so special is that they aim to be an ethical marketing alternative for organic, ecological and local producers. The market has been running for the past 8 years, and highlights over 50 producers from all over Mexico.

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While there is lots of local produce for sale here, you can also buy packaged products. Everything from; honey, vanilla, sauces, chocolate, spices and more. These are wonderful things to buy to bring a slice of Mexico home with you. There are also local artisans selling their wares and handmade goods. Plus the street food, especially the vegan variety, is always incredibly fresh!

Benito Juárez Elementary School

Take a walk south down Jalapa Street, where you find the great Benito Juárez Elementary School. Benito Pablo Juárez García was the first president of Mexico who was of indigenous origin and an important figure in the history of Mexico City. This is one of the oldest public schools in the city. The school is an incredible example of the Spanish Revival style of architecture.

Tamales Doña Emi

If you are craving a snack, hop over to Tamales Doña Emi. If you’ve never managed to be up early in the morning to catch the street tamale vendor, this is a great place to try tamales! There are dozens of different varieties here to try. They have all the traditional fillings and some more eclectic and modern variations as well. Something for everyone.

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