The rainy season in Kamakura brings with it the most beautiful spray of bright blue and purple hydrangeas! As the rain mixes with summer’s hot temperatures and humidity, it creates the ideal conditions for this flower to grow. Ajisai, as they are called in Japan, is grown all over the country. But Kamakura is the most popular place to see such a wide variety and concentration of them. Although a rainy day can seem like it could ruin your vacation, Japanese people think the opposite. It’s said that seeing the flowers in the rain is actually the best time to view them. So instead of letting the rain get you down, make your way to Kamakura and soak in the beauty of their hydrangeas.
Hydrangeas bloom in Kamakura from mid-June to early July. Rain or shine, the season is hectic. Visitors come from all over the country, so this is no hidden secret. Avoid weekends and holidays, when crowds are largest. An early start on a weekday gives you the best chance of seeing the flowers without the crowds.
If a large group blocks your view, wait a moment. They’ll pass, and you may find the spot to yourself, if only briefly. Everyone is just as excited as you are, and we all need to share the space.
Kamakura is a comfortable hour-long train ride from Tokyo, making it one of the easiest day trips. From Tokyo Station, the Yokosuka Line runs directly to Kita-Kamakura Station, our first stop, with no changes. From elsewhere in Tokyo, you’ll generally need just one change.
The key to a great rainy day is the right gear.
Umbrella: Don’t want to pack one? Train stations and convenience stores across Japan sell them for about $5. They’re surprisingly good quality and even cute. I love the clear plastic dome with a wide opening.
Raincoat: Bring a light, high-quality coat that folds up small and tucks into your backpack once the rain passes.
Plastic bag: I always carry a large one for wet clothes.
Footwear: Skip bulky rubber boots. All-weather leather ankle boots with a bit of anti-rain spray will keep your feet dry.
Extra socks: They take almost no room and are a game-changer.
Fabrics: Avoid jeans, which take forever to dry, and other cotton or synthetic fabrics. In warm weather, a dress with nylon stockings or light leggings is best. They aren’t very porous, so they dry quickly once the weather clears.
Hydrangeas are as symbolic as they are beautiful. With large heads on long stalks, the blooms bow as if crying when covered in rain. Pale pink varieties are said to resemble a beating heart. For these reasons, hydrangeas have long been associated with heartfelt emotion.
Legend has it that a Japanese emperor, who had been paying too much attention to work and not enough to the girl he loved, sent her family a basket of hydrangeas to show remorse and thank them for their understanding.
The variety found in Japan was developed by Tomitaro Makino, the “Father of Japanese Botany.” He named it the “princess hydrangea” for its large clusters of star-like petals. As the flowers bloom, their colour deepens from pale baby blue to deep indigo, which is why they’re also called shichihenge, or “various changes.” Dawn and dusk are the best times to view them, when the light makes the petals appear even more vibrant.
| Stop | Hours | Admission |
|---|---|---|
| Engakuji Temple | 8:00 am – 4:30 pm | 300 yen |
| Tokeiji Temple | 8:30 am – 5:00 pm | 100 yen |
| Meigetsu-in Temple | 8:30 am – 5:00 pm (last entry 4:30) | 500 yen |
| Hase-dera Temple | 8:00 am – 5:00 pm | 400 yen |
| Joju-in Temple Stairs | View from outside | Free |
| Gokurakuji Station | N/A | Free |
| Gokurakuji Temple | 9:00 am – 4:30 pm | Free |
Begin your day at Engakuji, one of Japan’s most important Zen Buddhist temple complexes. The hydrangeas here are less dense than at other spots, so it’s one of the less crowded stops. The gardens and buildings will draw you in like a spell.
Hours: 8:00 am – 4:30 pm | Admission fee: 300 yen
Blooms pop up in small clusters along the pathways and around the large Sanmon gate. Don’t miss the tea house on the grounds, where during hydrangea season you can have matcha with a sweet shaped like the iconic blossoms.
A few minutes south of Kita-Kamakura Station, Tokeiji was founded as a nunnery for women who wanted to escape abusive marriages but couldn’t initiate a divorce. Its flower garden has always been one of Kamakura’s best, and it’s still a great place to see hydrangeas.
Hours: 8:30 am to 5:00 pm | Admission Fee: 100 yen
Continue south and cross the river onto Meigetsuin Street. This narrow road, usually quiet, is suddenly overrun with visitors. You’ll soon see why.
Hours: 8:30 am to 5 pm (last admission at 4:30 pm) | Admission fee: 500 yen
Meigetsu-in, known as Ajisai-dera (“Hydrangea Temple”), was founded in 1160 as a Rinzai Zen temple and Buddhist school. Baby blue hydrangeas fill its grounds. The best view is right as you enter, where blooms lean in on either side of the staircase, almost greeting you with bowed heads. The grounds also look out over the valley’s low hills, bright green foliage, and the mountains behind.
Meigetsu-in is home to the tomb of Hojo Tokiyori, a former supreme ruler of Japan who made his home in Kamakura. The thatched-roof founder’s hall that houses it is one of the most beautiful buildings here. Its iconic circular window, the “Window of Enlightenment,” resembles the moon (Meigetsu means “bright moon”) and looks onto an inner Zen garden made for meditation.
Another nod to the moon: rabbit statues throughout the temple. In Japanese folklore, the rabbit offered itself to feed a starving man, who turned out to be the man in the moon. Moved by its generosity, he took the rabbit to the moon with him, and you can still see the rabbit pounding mochi on the full moon. Besides statues, you may find real rabbits in cages, or even one hopping among the flowers.
Hase-dera is known for its hilltop temple built into the mountains, but in rainy season the draw is its 2,500 hydrangeas. Over 40 varieties bloom across the grounds and along the scenic Prospect Path, which overlooks the sea. The swell of flowers covering the hills looks like a painting.
Hours: 8:00 am 5:00 pm | Admission fee: 400 yen
Walking down from Hase-dera, stop at Joju-in, a small temple at the top of a long stone staircase carved into the hillside above the beach. The stairs are flanked by 262 hydrangeas, making a mesmerizing photo. You don’t even need to enter the temple, so this stop is free.
This charming little station sits on the historic Enoden line, famous for its retro, colourful train cars. Hydrangeas on both sides of the track grow so large they lean in, almost blocking the trains.
Small but worth a look, Gokurakuji has an impressive display of bright, elegant hydrangeas out front, set against its rustic backdrop.
Hours: 9:00 to 4:30 pm | Admission: Free
After the temples, head to Komachi Street. Just as Japan is obsessed with sakura, Kamakura residents love their hydrangeas, and the food shows it. Try the hydrangea black tea infused with petals, or the ombre kakigori inspired by the flower’s hues. It comes with a tray of fruit compotes to pour on as you go, which keeps the ice from melting right away. It’s the perfect treat for a hot, humid day.
My favourite treat stop in Kamakura sells dozens of dango varieties. Dango are Japanese rice-flour dumplings, similar to mochi but marble-sized and steamed to be bouncy rather than chewy. The one to get this season is the hydrangea dango, topped with green and purple white bean paste meant to resemble stems and flowers. The green is matcha-flavoured and the purple is purple sweet potato.
This trendy, colourful soft serve shop is packed with fantastic flavours and smiling customers. During hydrangea season, order the “Ajisai” ice cream, a swirl of Uji green tea and purple sweet potato coloured to look like the flower.
When do hydrangeas bloom in Kamakura?
Usually mid-June to early July. Colours deepen as the season goes on, from pale blue to indigo.
Is it worth visiting in the rain?
Yes. Many Japanese visitors consider rainy days the best time to see them, and wet blooms look especially vivid.
What is the best time of day to go?
Early morning on a weekday. Dawn and dusk light also make the colours stand out.
Which temple is best for hydrangeas?
Meigetsu-in, the “Hydrangea Temple,” is the most famous. Hase-dera has the most variety, with over 40 varieties.
Do I need to bring an umbrella?
No. Train stations and convenience stores across Japan sell inexpensive clear umbrellas, usually for about $5.
Which spots are free?
Joju-in’s staircase (view from outside), Gokurakuji Station, and Gokurakuji Temple.
If you’re anywhere near Kamakura in rainy season, make the effort to see the hydrangeas. The season isn’t as short-lived as sakura, so you have more time to plan around it. They’re popular for good reason and well worth the train ride. Kamakura is one of my favourite day trips from Tokyo, a lovely seaside town to wander and explore.
If you find yourself anywhere near Kamakura during the rainy season you really need to make an effort to see the hydrangeas for yourself! The season isn’t as short-lived as the Sakuras, so you have a little bit more time to plan your trip around seeing them. They are definitely a popular attraction but well worth the train ride out to see them. Plus, Kamakura is one of my favourite day trips from Tokyo and such a lovely little seaside town to wander and explore.
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