It took us longer than I like to admit to get the courage to take a road trip to Ireland. We drove all over other parts of Europe and the USA, but something about driving on the other side of the road freaked us out. But we finally decided that we didn’t want fear to get the best of us and gathered our courage to head off for two weeks to explore everything Ireland had to offer. Driving in Ireland offers a unique and scenic way to explore the country’s breathtaking landscapes, charming villages, and historic sites. The rugged coastline of the Wild Atlantic Way and the green landscape spread out opposite the narrow roads of the Irish countryside is a beautiful landscape I could never imagine. With the car, we could go anywhere, opening up endless possibilities.
But we wanted to share a few essential tips so you can have a smooth and stress-free journey. From navigating passing cars on narrow rounds to how to pay tolls and what kind of car to rent, we have developed the Ultimate Driving Guide for First-Time Visitors.
But with so many visitors renting cars, ensuring your rental is booked well in advance is even more important. Additionally, if you’re visiting outside of Europe, you might be surprised to find that most of the available rental cars in Ireland are manual and not automatic. And if you’ve never driven a manual car before, trust me, the Irish country roads are NOT the place to learn! Booking in advance ensures you’ll get the automatic car you want, and of course, you’ll find better prices in advance compared to the last minute.
Although the idea of being in a nice, roomy car with lots of space to stretch out and carrying lots of storage might seem appealing for an Irish road trip, the roads in Ireland are some of the narrowest in the world. Often, you’ll be going down what looks like a single-lane road, only to find a local Irish driver barreling down towards you, and the only way to let them pass is to practically drive off into the ditch. And in these moments, or when passing cars on narrow roads along the cliff, you’ll be very thankful to have rented a little car. The smaller, the better. It also makes parking a breeze, and you’ll even save a bit of money on gas (or petrol as it’s called in Ireland).
You might consider renting two smaller cars rather than a large van if travelling with a larger group. Not only does this mean you can split off if different members want to get up to different activities throughout your trip, but it will definitely be less nerve-racking than driving a large van around the narrow, bendy roads.
When we got our rental car, they asked us if we needed insurance, but as seasoned travellers, we are used to our credit cards covering most rental car insurance as it had in many other countries. But when we were urged to look at the fine print, we realized that, yes, indeed, our regular insurance did not cover Ireland! And honestly, after seeing the roads, I know why. The locals told us how many visitors lost their side mirrors to those surprise narrow turns! You’ll want the peace of mind that knowing if something happens, you’ll be covered. So double-check if your regular travel insurance has Ireland listed as driver’s insurance and what it covers. If you need extra coverage, your rental car agency should be able to help you find the best options.
Ireland has a few toll roads and highways around major cities. The main toll roads are found on motorways (indicated by an “M”) and include routes like M50 (Dublin Ring Road), M1 (Dublin to the Northern Ireland border), M7/M8 (Dublin to Limerick and Cork), and M4 (Dublin to Galway). There are also a few toll bridges and tunnels, such as the East Link Toll Bridge and the Dublin Port Tunnel.
The M50 Toll Road (e-Flow) in Dublin is the most famous and operates without physical toll booths. Instead, it uses an electronic toll system called e-Flow, where your car’s license plate is photographed, and you are billed afterward. If you’re in a rental car, most companies will automatically handle this toll for you and bill you after the fact, but you should check with the rental company to avoid extra charges. If not, you must pay the toll online by 8 pm the day after using the road. You can pay the fee online at eflow, but the easier way is to stop at a petrol station and find a Payzone station, where you can also pay the fee and don’t need to worry about doing it online later in the day. Toll charges range from about €1.90 to €3.00 per toll, depending on the road. The M50 toll costs about €3.10.
Our rental car agency allowed us to buy a Toll Pass for €5/day, enabling us to drive right through the toll pass gates without worrying about paying for each toll as we passed through or paying the e-tolls online. While the convenience of it is worth it if you’re driving a lot on the main highways, we found that most of our trip was in the rural areas off the main highway, so it would have been more economical to simply pay tolls as you go.
If you’re wondering if the toll pass will be worth it for you, you can check out this interactive map of all the tolls around Ireland to see how many you’ll be passing through. When we passed through the automatic payment gates, which didn’t require paying the toll at the booth, we saved a bit of time, but honestly, there was never a long line to pay, and the cars moved through very quickly, so it was not like this save you tons of time either.
One of the most important things to remember when driving in Ireland is that you’ll be driving on the left side of the road. This can be a bit disorienting if you’re coming from a country where driving on the right is the norm. Take extra care when turning, especially at intersections and roundabouts, where it’s easy to default to driving on the right.
If you’re renting a car, the steering wheel will be on the right-hand side, which can also take some getting used to. Give yourself time to adjust, and drive cautiously until you feel comfortable.
Ireland is famous for its narrow, winding roads, especially in rural areas. These roads can be quite different from the wide highways you might be used to. Some of Ireland’s roads are barely wide enough for two cars to pass, and in more remote areas, they may only fit one vehicle at a time. Passing bays are common, so if you encounter oncoming traffic, use them to let the other car pass safely.
Drive slowly and stay aware of your surroundings, as the roads can be curvy and visibility limited by hedges, stone walls, or hills. Don’t be afraid to let locals pass if they’re driving faster—they know these roads better than most visitors!
In Ireland, speed limits are displayed in kilometers per hour (km/h), not miles. You’ll find that speed limits on rural roads can feel surprisingly high for the narrow, winding conditions, often ranging between 80-100 km/h. However, just because the posted speed limit is high doesn’t mean you have to drive at that speed. Drive at the speed you feel is safe, especially on unfamiliar or tricky roads.
In towns and cities, the speed limit is generally 50 km/h, while on major motorways, it can go up to 120 km/h. Pay attention to road signs, and remember that it’s always smarter to drive cautiously, especially in poor weather conditions.
Ireland has many roundabouts instead of traditional intersections, and if you’re not used to them, they can be a bit intimidating. When approaching a roundabout, yield to traffic coming from the right. Enter the roundabout when it’s clear and always use your indicator when exiting.
Take it slow if you’re unsure—locals are usually patient and will give you the space you need to navigate.
I get VERY sick in the car, especially on winding, narrow roads. So I can tell you I tested everything to find out what worked best to make me feel better and enjoy the streets as much as possible. If you’re prone to motion sickness, sitting in the front seat allows you to see the road ahead, reducing disorientation and nausea. Keep your eyes focused on a distant, stable object, like the horizon, to help your brain sync with the car’s motion. Ireland’s scenic routes offer plenty of places to stop and stretch. Frequent breaks for fresh air can help prevent motion sickness.
Ginger candies, ginger tea, or peppermint can help settle your stomach. These natural remedies are known for reducing nausea for those without severe sickness. Car-sick glasses, also known as anti-motion sickness glasses, are a relatively new and innovative solution designed to prevent motion sickness, including on Ireland’s winding roads. These glasses create an artificial horizon in your peripheral vision, which helps your brain align with the car’s motion, reducing the sensory conflict that causes nausea. I find that they work well for certain roads, but on the really winding, fast roads with sharp turns, the only thing that really works is medication. Over-the-counter medications like Dramamine, Gravol, Ireland, and Stugeron are some brands to look for. They make you drowsy, but I found that if I had a quick cat nap, I could be awake for the rest of the drive. Some people find motion sickness wristbands or ear patches work well, but I’ve never found they worked for me. But it’s always worth a try, as everyone reacts differently.
If you want to blend in like a local, when you encounter an oncoming vehicle on one of Ireland’s narrow roads, it’s customary for locals to acknowledge the other driver by lifting their index finger (usually of the right hand) just an inch or two from the steering wheel, often with a slight nod. This is a common roadside greeting that adds a nice touch to getting into the driving rhythm on these roads.
Irish road signs can be a bit different from what you’re used to, especially if you’re travelling in the Gaeltacht region, where signs are written in Irish (Gaeilge). In most other areas, signs will be in both English and Irish. Familiarize yourself with common road signs and symbols before your trip, especially if you plan to drive in rural areas.
In rural Ireland, it’s not uncommon to encounter sheep, cows, or other livestock wandering onto the roads. If you find yourself behind a herd of sheep, don’t panic—simply slow down and wait for them to move. Farmers are usually nearby and will guide the animals off the road quickly. It’s all part of the authentic Irish countryside experience!
Driving in Ireland is an adventure all of its own. But it is the perfect way to explore the country’s hidden gems and breathtaking scenery at your own pace. The roads might be a bit narrow, and you’ll face more roundabouts than you’re used to, but with a little preparation and patience, you’ll soon get the hang of it. Before you know it, the drive becomes part of the fun. Take it slow, enjoy the journey, and soak in the experience—that’s what exploring Ireland is all about!
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