Anyone who thinks of Budapest will most likely immediately picture their iconic Parliament Building. The Hungarian Parliament Building is one of the most recognizable images of Hungary and a symbol of the country’s talented artists who helped achieve this vision of architectural magnificence. Standing on the banks of the Danube, it flanks the city and greets visitors floating down the river with its bright white columns and staggering silhouette.
You can take the subway to Kossuth Tér station on the M2 metro line to reach the Parliament Building. If you prefer to travel on the tram, you can also take Line 2 to Kossuth Lajos Square Station. The buildings are open from 8 am to 6 pm from April to October and 8 am to 4 pm from November to March. There are certain times when Parliament is meeting, and entry is unavailable during those days. Check the website before you arrive to see if there are any blackout dates during your visit.
Since the parliament buildings are one of the most popular attractions in Budapest, it is highly advisable to buy your tickets in advance. Tickets can be purchased online; trust me, you’ll be happy you don’t have to waste your time waiting on your vacation by doing it this way. Adult tickets for non-EU citizens cost 10,000 Ff ($27 US) and European Citizens can buy a discounted ticket for 5,000 Ft ($14 USD.)
The Parliament building was built in 1896. It was made after the unification of the three cities which would eventually make up modern-day Budapest. A nationwide design competition was held to find a concept widely loved. Not just by the government but by the public as well. It was important to the committee that the building was designed from the start by a Hungarian. A native who could embed their nation’s values, history, art and cultures into one building. In the end, Hungarian architect Imre Steindl’s Gothic Revival design won the competition and construction on the new Parliament could finally begin.
Interestingly, second and third-place designs were honoured by being built, just not as Parliament. They were actualized, albeit on a smaller scale, across from the Parliament Building and served as the headquarters for the Ministry of Agriculture and the Museum of Ethnography. All three buildings in these small areas are a real treat, and you can decide for yourself if the committee made the right choice.
The Hungarian Parliament Building is the world’s third-largest parliament building, measuring 258 meters long and 123 meters wide. Its interior includes 691 rooms, 200 offices, ten courtyards, 27 gates, 29 sets of staircases and 13 passengers and two freight elevators. The building is 96 meters tall, and after its construction, a law was written that no other building in the city is allowed to be taller than the Parliament building. This ensures that the spires of Parliament can be seen from all across the city.
The best place to see the Parliament building for the first time is from across the Danube river. Standing in a place like Batthyány Square, you can easily see the entirety of the building. From afar, you can better appreciate the harmony and power such a domineering structure can evoke. From the other side of the Danube, you’ll be able to study the symmetrical nature of the construction. Either side of the upper and lower houses are perfect copies of each other. This reflects the equality between the two houses of Parliament. In the centre is a large, commanding, Neo-Renaissance dome, signifying the unity created when combining both sides of the legislature.
Over 100,000 people were employed to construct the Parliament Buildings. No expense was spared in the production. One of the most essential things to designer Imre Steindl was to ensure the construction used elements of the Carpathian Basin in its structure. There were over 40 million bricks made from Hungarian materials. Half a million precious stones were harvested from around the country to be used in the decorations. 40 kilograms of gold were added throughout to give the building a sense of opulence and grandiosity. Steindl used local artisans to create the thousands of sculptures, frescos and ironwork that make this building so absolutely covered from floor to ceiling in art.
The design of the building is anchored in the Gothic Revival movement, which takes elements from classical Gothic designs but blends in details of the Renaissance and the Baroque. The gothic Revival is an architectural movement that began in the late 1740s in England. The style features characteristics including; decorative patterns, finials, scalloping, lancet windows and hood mouldings. While the facade and ornamentation may be neo-gothic, the floor plan is distinctly baroque, and the embellishments on the ceilings inside are stylistic elements drawn from the Renaissance. It’s fantastic to see a building not stuck inside just one style. It breaks free from linear standards and feels like a love story to architecture itself.
Because of modern-day pollution, the porous limestone walls cover to surround the facade of the building regularly require cleaning. Don’t be surprised if you see scaffolding around Parliament when you visit.
To the east, even from across the river, you can see a large group of statues which make up the Kossuth Memorial. Created in 1956, the dramatic sculpture surrounds a large column where Lajos Kossuth stands. Lajos Kossuth was a freedom fighter and influenced the creation of democracy in Europe.
On the north side of the building, you’ll find the statue of Count István Tisza. István Tisza was a Hungarian politician, prime minister, political scientist, international lawyer, macroeconomist, and member of the Hungarian Academy of Sciences. He really did it all! Tisza was one of the most influential politicians who supported Austria-Hungary’s dual monarchy but was eventually assassinated during the Aster Revolution.
Along the edge of the river, sitting frozen in place, is a statue of Attila József. His poem By the Danube is reflected here in his pose:
As I sat on the bottom step of the wharf,
A melon-rind flowed by with the current;
Wrapped in my fate, I hardly heard the chatter
Of the surface, while the deep was silent.
As if my own heart had opened its gate:
The Danube was turbulent, wise and great.
On the grassy knoll outside the front of Parliament is the triumphant equestrian statue of Francis II Rákóczi. Rákóczi was a nobleman and leader of the Hungarian uprising against the Habsburgs in 1703. He is considered even to this day as one of the greatest Hungarian national heroes.
I think one of the most moving statues on the grounds is ‘In Memoriam 1956.’ This large piece of black iron might look like nothing from afar, but when you get close, you can make out bullet holes embedded in the sculpture. This is to memorialize the Hungarian Revolution of 1956. This was a nationwide revolution against the Hungarian People’s Republic and its Soviet-imposed policies. The battle lasted 18 days, and over 2,500 Hungarians and 700 Soviet troops were killed in the conflict.
The 6.5 m tall statue of Count Gyula Andrássy riding his proud horse stands on the south side of the building. Gyula Andrássy was Hungary’s prime minister between 1867-71, and he still stands guard outside Parliament today.
Because both sides of the Parliament Halls are identical, one is used for the politician’s daily work and the other for guided tours. This allows you to explore everything the insiders see daily without worrying about interfering with the employees’ day-to-day activities.
When you first go up the stairs upon entry, look up. You’ll see that the entire ceiling is coated in nothing but gold. Hence the name, The Golden Staircase. It looks like the inside of a jewellery box. From the golden staircase, you’re led down a narrower hallway. The right side of which is adorned with brilliantly coloured stained glass.
The small hallways will suddenly open up, and you’ll find yourself standing in The Grand Stairway. Along the sides of the staircase are huge Corinthian columns, each carved in exotic burgundy granite. They are capped with intricate gilded embellishments and spread out into fantastically painted arches covered in gold. There’s a lot of gold in here, that’s for sure. There is something about seeing all this grandeur in a place of government; it really does give you the sense that these people were very passionate about politics.
Take a 360-degree spin around, and be sure to take a look up at the fresco on the ceiling. These incredible frescos were painted by Károly Lotz, a famous German-Hungarian painter. These three depictions are allegorical and symbolic of the government’s actions and effects on the country.
The stained glass throughout the building creates little vignettes of magic when the light pours through. Created by artist Miksa Róth, the windows represent family crests of iconic Hungarian royal families. Others designs are merely decorative, using traditional Hungarian patterns. But most impressive are the glassworks that look like embroidered drapery yet forged in the glass.
The next stop on your tour is Dome Hall. Entering the hall makes you feel as though you are entering a Cathedral. The soaring dome and adornments throughout are as glorious as it comes. There are 16 points in this room, each of whose corners reach up to the top of the dome, creating an immense sensation of openness and grandiosity.
See if you can count all 242 sculptures surrounding the dome’s corners. Each portrays a different Hungarian ruler, Transylvanian leader or famous historic military officer, carefully placed on gold pedestals. Despite their small stature, their faces are impeccably carved, and their expressions are life-like.
One of the most precious treasures of the Parliament building is the Hungarian Crown jewels. You can see on display the Holy Crown, the orb and sceptre, and a Renaissance royal sword. The crown jewels have had a rough history as they have been lost, stolen and looted several times. After WWII, they were given over to the American army to keep them safe from the Soviet Union. They remained in Fort Knox, Kentucky, for years, and it was only in 1978 that President Jimmy Carter had them returned to the Hungarian people.
The Hungarian crown comprises two pieces of jewellery, each from an illustrious era of history. The lower portion is the original Byzantine crown, and the upper cross-shaped topper is from another crown from the medieval period. The crown was initially designed for St. Stephen for his royal coronations over 1000 years ago.
Before entering the Upper House, you’ll be ushered into the Upper House Lobby, a long corridor with massive pillars on either side, where people gather before or after critical political meetings. The enormous turquoise carpet is one of the most exciting things in the Upper House Lobby! This carpet is hand-knotted, which would have taken artisans thousands of hours to complete all by hand. The pillars in the lobby, almost salmon pink in colour, are surrounded by statues representing Hungarian crafts and culture, which seems appropriate since the art and design that makes this building so unique is mostly due to these craftsmen and women.
Another ubiquitous piece of history is the brass cigar holders that line the window sills. Since smoking was banned inside the Chamber when smoking, politicians had to go back inside to vote on a particular bill or amendment. They didn’t want to snuff out their expensive cigars and instead would leave them in these fireproof holders so they could return to smoking after voting.
The Old Upper House is a replica of the assembly hall where the congress meets weekly, and some of the nation’s most significant decisions are made. This hall is used more for conferences and meetings than political state business. The House itself is enormous. 452 wooden seats, made from decorated Slavonian oak, are set in a semi-circle around the speaker’s chair. The seats are covered in lush red velvet, making each member feel important. Behind the speaker’s chair are magnificent paintings of Hungary’s royal families over the years.
The last thing you’ll visit on your tour is the library of Parliament. Although politicians have a private library which they use, this library is open to the public and still contains over 500,000 books and volumes. Books as old as 1580 are stored here on the shelves that reach the ceiling. Sitting inside the library, you have a stunning view across the Danube, and it’s the perfect peaceful place to end the tour.
What are your Parliament Buildings like back in your home country? Are they magnificent as this one? Let me know in the comments!
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