Every neighbourhood in Barcelona has a unique personality and appearance. It’s one of the things I love most about this city. Walking from district to district feels like entering a different world altogether with their own unique architectural styles to explore. From the modernista neighbourhood of L’Eixample to the bohemian streets of Gracia, you can really find it all. But perhaps one of the most interesting areas to explore in is the famed Barcelona Gothic Quarter or ‘Barrio Gòtic’. This part of town is where you’ll find cobblestone covered medieval alleys, towering neo-gothic spires and even ancient Roman ruins.
Despite the name “Gothic Quarter”, it’s important to know that most of these buildings were actually all built in the late 1800s through the 1900s in neo-gothic style. In 1929 there was a massive International Exhibition planned to take place in Barcelona. Wanting to jump on the tourist train, Barcelona decided to pour all their money into a massive restoration project. This project aimed to recreate the feeling of Barcelona in the medieval ages. They were inspired by European neo-gothic architecture and wanted to bring back some of their destroyed medieval histories.
While many of the sights might not date back to the early 13th century, I still think this neighbourhood is wonderfully charming and it contains some of Barcelona’s most important architectural structures. Plus, with these renovations, you do get the sense of what it would have felt like to explore Barcelona of the 13th century.
The neighbourhood retains its medieval labyrinth-like street layout. Most of these streets are still closed off from traffic, as they would have been before the invention of cars. When not overwhelmed with tourists, this vehicle-less area really adds to the ancient feeling of the neighbourhood. A walking tour is the best way to experience all the sights and sounds this place has to offer. Download the google map at the bottom of this post which plots all the different stops we’re going to make on our tour! Save as an offline map to follow along from point to point so you won’t miss a beat!
The best time to take this walking tour is early in the morning. Since the area is so popular, it becomes overrun with tourists in the afternoon. There is just something about exploring in the early morning, when you have the entire place to yourself (trust me, I did it!), which feels absolutely magical. I would also try to avoid the weekends since they can be also a busier time to visit.
Our tour is going to start at the Plaça de Catalunya. To get there you can easily reach the square on foot if you are staying nearby. If you need to take transit, Catalunya is easily accessible from multiple lines of the metro, making it a great place to start the tour. Cataluyna Station is serviced by Line 1, 3, 6 and 7. Just take the metro to Cataluyna Station, hop off and follow the signs for Plaça de Catalunya.
Barcelona is heralded as one of the most wheelchair accessible cities in the world! In the gothic quarter, there are more bumps and hills than in the rest of the city, but with a powered chair, this shouldn’t be an issue. For more information on accessibility in Barcelona check out Cory’s blog! The Gothic Quarter is fairly small, so although we may weave around these streets, we won’t be going a huge amount of distance.
The best place to start your tour is at the Plaça de Catalunya. The Plaça de Catalunya was built in 1927, just before the 1929 International Exhibition. It would be the central meeting point where people would gather from the moment it was inaugurated. Surrounding this plaza were the city’s most expensive and exclusive hotels, bar and theatres. Every builder was clamouring to get a piece of real estate around this square. It was to be the Times Square of Barcelona.
The enormous plaza covers 5 hectares of land and although it seems altogether too big, it almost NEEDS to be. Nine different major streets all converge together at this plaza. You can hear them zooming around you, like buzzing bees at all times of the day. This place is always packed with locals eating lunch, tourists taking pictures and street artists performing their act.
One of the nicest features of the plaza is the number of sculptures to be found surrounding it. It feels almost like an outdoor art gallery. One of the most impressive is Jose Maria Subirachs’ ‘1991 Monument to Francesc Macià‘. It looks like two sets of stairs, one turned upside down atop the other. If you’ve already been to the Sagrada Familia, the name Subirachs will sound familiar. Subirachs was the designer who took over the Passion Facade of the great cathedral for Gaudi. The normal staircase represents Catalonia’s history while the upside-down stairs represent the dynamic future of the Catalonian people. Catalonians will always subvert and aim to be different than the rest of Spain and this sculpture exemplifies that nature.
Move towards the southeastern corner of the square towards Avinguda del Portal de l’Àngel. The Portal de l’Àngel is a beautiful pedestrian street that leads you into the Gothic Quarter. It runs parallel to Las Ramblas and while Las Ramblas might be a little more touristy, Angel is as upscale as it gets in Barcelona. When the street was first established, it was the main hub for the fashion industry. Hundreds of textile stores could be found here. Women of the Spanish elite would come here to have the finest dresses of the day custom made for them. Nowadays, you can find some of the most expensive brands and department stores along this stretch which are still serving the elite of Barcelona.
Making your way away from the busy street down the Carrer de Santa Anna. Here, you’ll find yourself walking down a narrow shopping street. On your right, keep your eye open for an unassuming archway. This leads you towards one of the most underrated churches in Barcelona. Tucked in between a few residential buildings and almost lost in an overgrown forest of trees, this church doesn’t immediately look like much. But a step inside will reveal its hidden beauty.
The church was founded in 1177 by the monks of the Holy Sepulcher. The monks travelled to Barcelona all the way from Jerusalem. It took over three centuries to build this monumental structure! Because of the length of time of the construction, you can find elements from a multitude of architecture periods. From Romanesque to Gothic and even bits from the Renaissance.
The most impressive part of this church is the 15th-century cloisters, designed in traditional gothic style. In the centre of the cloisters is a beautiful tropical garden with large palm trees and other seasonal plants. Monks would use these cloisters not just for quiet contemplation, but they would also grow many herbs and vegetables here to help cure and feed the sick and poor of the city.
Els 4Gats, or ‘The Four Cats” is a gorgeous modernista cafe located just a few blocks away from the church. It opens as early as 9am and is the perfect place to grab a coffee in the most beautiful setting. The cafe was opened in 1897 and was once both hostel, bar and cabaret. This was where Barcelona’s creative community would gather to dance the night away! It’s been mythologized that Pablo Picasso and Ramon Casas i Carbó were both local patrons. These artists would call this place their home away from home. While the cafe can get very busy around lunch and dinner, if you’ve taken my advice and come to do this tour early then you’ll find this place almost all to yourself (Barcelona doesn’t tend to wake up till about 11 am).
Continuing along, at the corner of Avinguda Portal de l’Àngel and Carrer Cucurulla you’ll find the Font de Santa Anna de Barcelona. A lot of people pass right by, but make sure you sneak by the cars and tourists to look at this piece of true medieval history. The fountain dates all the way back to 1356 and was originally used as a horse trough. In the 18th and 19th centuries, ceramic tiles were added on each side of the fountain depicting women carrying water jugs from the fountain.
On the front of the fountain is a stone carving of Barcelona’s coat of arms. The coat of arms is the version from the 19th century, with a large bat that flies over the crown. when the bat was removed from the coat of arms in the 1920s this was seen as a loss of an emblematic symbol shared by other capitals of the former Crown of Aragon.
Continuing along the Carrer dels Arcs you’ll suddenly come upon the large public square called ‘Plaça Nova‘. Plaça Nova sits in the shadow of the great Barcelona Cathedral and is almost always bustling with people. There is always something happening here! Whether its a festival, wedding, protest or just tour groups, there is a lively atmosphere here that just can’t be avoided. The Placa Nova was once one of the four main entrances to the Roman city. We can still see remnants of the original Roman city walls and two large romanesque towers surrounding the square.
Although there is some argument in the historical community about the date in which the square was established it is thought to be around 1358. In the centre of the square are the letters: “B a r c i n o”, which was the original Iberian village which was first founded here which would become Barcelona.
Turn around to face the Architects’ Association of Catalonia building where you’ll find one of the largest pieces by Pablo Picasso. This enormous frieze was designed by the iconic artist but painted by his studio. If you’re lucky enough to be here on a Thursday, be sure to check out the Mercat Gòtic Barcelona which pops up in front of the church. Here you can discover some gorgeous antiques and relics from Catalonia! Even if you’re not interested in buying anything it’s a wonderful thing to just explore!
Inside the Plaça Nova, hidden behind the original Roman ruins, you’ll find the Casa de l’Ardiaca. The building has been the home of the Municipal Archive since 1921 but its history dates back to almost the 12th century! Before that, it was the headquarters of Barcelona’s Lawyers’ Association. Outside, you’ll see a modernista style mailbox designed by famed architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner. On it are three swallows and a tortoise, the symbols of the Spanish legal system. The birds symbolize the idea of freedom, whereas the slow bureaucratic procedures which can be such a big part of legal proceedings are represented by the tortoise.
Head inside the main courtyard to see the treasures that this, outwardly unassuming building has to offer. Inside you’ll find the “Salon des les pinyes” or ‘pineapple salon’. Here you can admire the gorgeous central fountain and palm tree, growing inside the building. The surrounding cloisters are covered in colourful tiles and oldest looking walls in here date all the way back to the Roman era.
Continue walking across the square until you reach the doors of the great Cathedral of Barcelona. If you aren’t interested in going inside, just gazing upon the exterior is well worth your time. This monument to architectural majesty began construction in 1298 but wasn’t completed until 1420! The church is dedicated to Saint Eulalia of Barcelona. Eulalia was attacked by Roman soldiers in the square for her Christian beliefs and stripped naked in front of a horde of people. She was ashamed but in the middle of the summer, it began to snow, covering her naked form. Unfortunately, this only enraged the roman soldiers more and they threw her in a barrel, stabbed the barrel with knives and rolled her down the street. The street they preformed this torture upon her, now bears her name.
Her sad but powerful story is one which stuck with the people of Barcelona and this church was built in her name. Inside you can still see her chapel which holds her elaborate sarcophagus. This church helped inspire Gaudi’s design of the Sagrada Familia, so seeing this gothic masterpiece is the perfect complement to understanding Gaudi’s vision. For a complete tour of the Cathedral of Barcelona click here!
Exit the church, via the side exit in the cloister, where you’ll come out into a small courtyard. In the centre of the courtyard, along the wall, is a large arch with a beautiful sculpture nestled underneath. This stunning modernist sculpture is dedicated to the ‘Five martyrs of Catalan Freedom‘. During the French occupation of 1809, these five men rose up in an attempt to free the city from the Napoleonic troops. Unfortunately, their plot failed but their memories live on in the hearts of the people of Catalonia.
The moment sculptor Josep Llimona captured was a quiet moment. He uses a realist style of sculpture, to capture the moment just before they were executed. They sit in solemn contemplate, one of them comforting the other. Above their heads are a choir of angels made by sculptor Vicenç Navarro. One of the angels leans down, to crown their heads with a laurel wreath, the symbol of victors. The difference between the more realistic look of the heroes and the art nouveau style of the angels, with curved lines and exaggerated features, easily conveys the difference between the earthly and heavenly plane.
The Carrer de Sant Sever is one of my favourite streets in the Gothic Quarter. The alley is super narrow, and the buildings on either side seem to almost lean in towards one and other, making the street extremely dark and moody. Which let’s face it, just adds to the wonderful “gothic” feeling of the neighbourhood.
Continue down the Carrer de Sant Sever and turn up the small side street Carrer de Sant Felip Neri. This leads you towards the Plaça de Sant Felip Neri. Walking into this small, quiet square, the first thing which grabs your eye is the huge stone walls. Upon closer inspection, you’ll notice they are covered in holes.
In 1937, bombs were being dropped by fascist troops into this square which resulted in the death of 42 people, 20 of whom were children. The church located in this square had an adjoining school which was an unfortunate victim of these attacks. The holes on the walls still mark this deadly event, left unrepaired so that the event is never forgotten. When I visited, a child and his father ran playfully around the square. There was something both happy and sad about seeing this little scene play out. Happy to see children’s laughter persist here but sad to imagine all those children who lost their lives.
On the northern wall is the old 17th-century baroque church of Felip Neri. Felip (of Philip) Romolo Neri, was the Second Apostle of Rome, after Saint Peter. A statue of Felip Neri in the center niche about the doorway.
Opposite the church is the oldest building in the square, which is from the Renaissance period. This stone building is notable for its two ancient wrought-iron balconies and a stone relief of a lion in the center. This was once the headquarters of the shoemaker guild and now houses the Barcelona shoe museum.
Head back out down the Carrer de Sant Sever and turn down this tiny, almost hidden alleyway, Carrer de Salomó ben Adret. These little alleyways are one of the best parts of the Gothic quarter. They seem to pop out of nowhere and even when you think they might not lead anywhere they’ll open right up to a huge square.
The Bistrot Levante is located inside one of these tucked away squares and is the perfect place to sit outside and enjoy an afternoon lunch. Their modern approach to Lebanese food might seem like an odd choice for visiting Spain but trust me, this place is wonderful!
Head back out onto the Carrer de Sant Sever turning east onto the Carrer del Bisbe. As soon as you turn the corner, your eyes will be met with the sight of this fantastical gothic bridge which adjoins the two buildings on either side of this narrow street. This is known as the Pont del Bisbe or Bishop’s Bridge. It was created in the 1920s to connect the Parliament buildings to the presidential residence. But it was named after the Bishop of Barcelona who instigated its constitution as a means of escape from the parliament buildings should there be a political coup.
The intricate patterns of stonework beneath the arches make the bridge look like a delicate piece of lace. Passing under the bridge you get the strange feeling of being watched as the eyes of the various gargoyles, which jut out from the bridge, look down on you. The bridge was designed by Joan Rubió i Bellver, the apprentice to Antoni Gaudí! Today this is one of the most popular places to get your picture taken in the Gothic quarter, despite the bridge being a product of the 20th century. When you walk under the bridge make sure to make a wish as is the popular tradition!
After getting your photos and walking under the bridge, take a few steps forward and look up at the wall to your right. Along the top of this facade is a gothic medallion and in the centre a small statue of Saint Jordi. This was made in the 15th century by Catalan sculptor Pere Johan. The legend of Saint Jordi in Catalonia goes a valiant knight went to rescue a princess from a ruthless dragon. When he plunged his sword into this belly, a rose bush grew from the dragon’s spilt blood.
Saint Jordi then plucked a rose from the bush to give to the princess to further win her heart. In Barcelona, every year on April 23rd they celebrate Saint Jordi day, which for them is the holiday of love, similar to the North American Valentine’s day. On that day lovers exchange roses and books to show their love for one an another just like Saint Jordi did for the princess
Instead of walking to the end of the street, turn back around to walk down the Carrer de la Pietat. This small street takes you behind the great Cathedral of Barcelona and along the Cases dels Canonges, or House of the Canon. This 14th-century group of buildings was transformed into the residence of the President of Catalonia in the 20th century. Because the building was once multiples residences, you’ll see a myriad of architectural designs along the facade, from Renaissance, to Gothic and even a touch of Baroque.
The main facade you’ll see as you turn the corner on the Carrer de la Pietat is the Renaissance facade with its tromp d’oeil patterns which were made with stucco to give the appearance of three-dimensional stones. On the second floor facade, you can see these beautiful stucco paintings of Grecian of women carrying baskets of flowers on their heads. No doubt in a wealthier home these would be carvings set into niches, but here you get the same effect at a fraction of the cost! How frugal the owner must have been.
As you round the corner along this small side street, look at the church doors on the corner. This side entrance is no longer frequented but has still been given beautiful adornment. Above the huge archway is powerful portal depicting the Pietat; mother Mary holding her dying son in her arms after taking him down off the cross. The moving carving was so important that it is what gives the street its name.
As you round the corner you’ll be able to see, in this tiny courtyard, the entrance of the of Cases dels Canonges. Above each of the windows on this side are stone carvings of medieval heraldic symbols from the 15th and 16th centuries. This building is now used as the Department of Foreign Affairs.
Keep straight and walk down the small Career del Paradis. This secretive, almost too narrow alley, leads you straight to the Temple of Augustus. This unassuming building is marked only with a dull piece of signage on the outside but head straight into the inner courtyard to find an impressive discovery! This medieval building, with its mint green walls, holds within it four incredible Corinthian columns. These columns are the last remaining piece of Barcelona’s Roman history. The Roman temple which once stood here was dedicated to Emperor Caesar Augustus, giving the remains the name, Temple of Augustus.
This tucked-away alley is another great place to get something to eat. Craft Barcelona is a wonderfully hip and charming hidden gem. They have some of the best tapas, service and, unique for Barcelona, they specialize in craft beers from all over Spain! (But you can still get a killer sangria and cava here as well)
Just opposite the tiny street of Carrer del Paradis is the grade square called Plaça de Sant Jaume. This huge, black bricked square is surrounded on all sides by various important historical buildings. They call this square the “political beating heart of the city”. It’s here that the city’s government has been run for centuries. Even during Roman times, Placa de Sant Jaume was the meeting point of two of their largest junctions, meaning it served as the major meeting point in Barcelona. The square was named after the old Church of Sant Jaume, which stood here since the 14th century but was demolished in 1823. Even so, the square keeps its name in her honour.
Today, the square is where you’ll find the Parliament of Catalonia or the Palau de la Generalitat. This is one of the few medieval buildings to remain in the gothic quarter. The Palace was built in 1283 to hold the Catalan Assembly and was the first parliament building in Europe! Here, just as hundreds of years before, is where the seat of government sits. Above the large, archways into the buildings, is a statue of St. Geroge slaying the dragon. Inside, is a chapel also dedicated to the saint. The chapel’s exterior runs alongside the Carrer del Bisbe, where we saw the Saint Jordi sculpture near the Bridge.
It’s a real shame the building isn’t open to tourists as the interior features some incredible gothic architecture and a Renaissance courtyard with beautiful orange trees and other native Catalan plants.
Opposite the Palau de la Generalitat is the grandiose Casa de la Ciutat, of Barcelona City Hall. It features a rather austere neoclassical facade but inside is replete with gothic architecture exemplifying Catalan national pride. On either side of the archway entrance are the statues of King Jaume I, who founded the original city council, and Joan Fiveller, a significant member of the council who advised the king.
You can walk inside, where you’ll find the Barcelona Tourism office, to get a peek at some of this amazing old architecture. You’ll enter into the great Gothic staircase with sculptures from Gargallo, Llimona, Navarro, Subirachs, Marès, Miró and Clarà dotting the interior. It’s pretty amazing to find artist work of this calibre just out in public spaces for everyone to enjoy.
Opposite city hall walk north along the Carrer d’Hèrcules towards the Plaça de Sant Just. This quiet square is home of the Basílica dels Sants Màrtirs Just i Pastor. The alleyway leading you into this square feels so narrow that when it opens up it’s like taking a breath of fresh air. I think it’s amazing when architecture can give you a feeling like that.
Standing guard over the square is the great Basilica of Saints Justus and Pastor. Look up the portal above the central doorway. Two tiny angels kneel in prayer on either side of the Virgin Mary who sits on her throne between them. The 14th-century church is rumoured to be even older, and perhaps built up from an older church as far back as the 4th century! This would make it the oldest church in Barcelona, but alas historians are still squabbling on the details. It’s a shame the church is usually closed as the interior houses some of the most fantastical chapel carvings and stained glass! So if the doors happen to be open, don’t miss the opportunity!
There is a small water fountain in the corner of the square which looks pretty unassuming to take a closer look. At the bottom of the fountain are three carved heads with their mouths open. In between the carvings are water faucets. Although the faucets and the carvings are new, the source of the water is the oldest in the city. Giving credence to the thought that the church here might date back to the founding of the city since important buildings are often situated near water sources.
Continuing back towards the starting point of the tour, walking along the sidestreets of Carrer de la Dagueria to the Carrer del Verguer, which leads into the Plaça del Rei. This square is surrounded on all sides by some of the most authentically gothic and medieval buildings of Barcelona. Their overwhelming presence is one of the reasons this part of the city gets the name “Gothic Quarter”.
The wide, regal steps lead up towards the Palau Reial Major, or old Royal Palace. Rei, means King in Spanish, as this was the courtyard of the King. The palace was the main residence of Catalan Kings and Queen from the 13th to 15th centuries but was used as a non-royal residence as far back as the 11th century. Because the building is so old, you can make out old Visigothic and Romanesque features although the dominant style is that of the high gothic. Standing guard above the square is a rectangular tower, complete with a multitude of arched windows. This was King Martin’s Watchtower, built in the 15th century.
The building opposite the palace is the Palau del Lloctinent, or Lieutenant’s Palace. This 16th-century construction hides inside it one of the most heavenly gardens. Set against a sea of golden yellow stucco, you’ll find an old renaissance courtyard covered in green ivy flourishing plants. Today, this building houses the Archive of the Crown of Aragon.
This is a great place to end the tour. If you want to relax there are dozens of cafes nearby with gorgeous views of the Gothic Quarter to enjoy as you sip your cava. Or if you’re still up for more you can visit the Barcelona History Museum to learn even more about the history of this great city!
Hopefully you’ve enjoyed this tour as much as I enjoyed wandering the beautiful street, learning as much as I could to share with you all! What was your favourite part of the Gothic Quarter or did you find any secrets I didn’t share along the way? Let me know in the comments! I love hearing from readers.
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