If you’re looking for an outdoor adventure that will leave you feeling refreshed and rejuvenated, look no further than a hike in Johnston Canyon! On one of my first trips to Banff, I was so interested in the idea of going on a hike into the forests. But as someone who isn’t the most outdoorsy person, I was worried I wouldn’t be able to find a hike suitable for my fitness level. Luckily for me, there are plenty of hikes in Banff for any level of hiker. And Johnston Canyon was the one we settled on for our first foray into the Rockies.
Johnston Canyon is located in the Banff National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful places on Earth. Banff National Park is just an hour and 40 minutes outside of Calgary. So it makes for a perfect day trip or weekend away. Waterfalls, tunnels and pools of water have been carved into the limestone rocks over time, providing the most dramatic landscape for your eyes to dance around along the hike.
The trail is divided into two parts; the Lower Falls and the Upper Falls. The first portion of the hike is a leisurely 30-minute walk from the parking lot. The further Upper Falls trail is a two-hour return hike with an elevation gain of 120 metres. The Lower falls trail guides you along an accessible pathway to a viewing platform with views over the lower falls. The Upper Falls trail takes you deeper into the forest, on a more rugged path towards the larger and more climactic Upper Falls. As you approach, you’ll be able to hear the pounding of the water as it batters down upon the stones. As it has for eons, creating the canyon we walk along today.
The name ‘Johnston Canyon‘ comes from an old 20th-century gold prospector who mapped the canyon upon discovering it. Years later, Walter Camp settled with his family in the area, as he had fallen in love with the falls. We have them to thank for the infrastructure and pathways around the canyon. They transformed the area from a wild forest into a part of the National Park. This way, everyone could experience the beauty of the falls for themselves. Today, Walter Camp’s descendants still run the nearby Johnston Canyon Canyon Lodge and Bungalows.
But we must remember, it was the Stoney First Nations Indigenous people who were the first to discover the beauty of the canyon. Indigenous people have been living and hunting in the Bow Valley for millennia. They would come here for their trapping and hunting expeditions as the waters and forests around the canyon were rich with animals and fish. All the Banff National Parklands are located on the traditional and ancestral territory of many peoples, including the Treaty 6, 7, and 8 territories. Namely: the Blackfoot Confederacy – Kainai, Piikani, and Siksika – the Cree, Dene, Saulteaux, Nakota Sioux, Stoney Nakoda, and the Tsuut’ina Nation and the Métis People of Alberta, as well as the unceded territory of the Ktunaxa and Secwépemc. It’s essential to make this acknowledgement an act of gratitude to those whose territory we are visiting as a step in the journey of reconciliation.
Most people visiting Johnston Canyon arrive by car. There is a large parking area is located at the foot of the trail, just off the Bow Valley Parkway. Although there is a dedicated parking lot for the trail, it is super popular, especially in summer. Recently they even had to build a second parking lot (P2) to accommodate more visitors. Unlike elsewhere in Banff, parking here is free! If the parking lot is full, you might be able to park along the Bow Valley Parkway, you’ll no doubt see lots of cars dotted along the side of the road. Be very careful when entering and exiting your vehicle if you park along the busy road.
But parking along the road means you’ll add another 20-30 minutes to your hike, as you will have to walk along the road to the trailhead. To avoid the crowds, and get a parking spot, arrive early in the morning. Or arrive towards the end of the day, when many day-trippers have already headed home. If you can avoid the weekends, this will also mean fewer people on the trails.
Banff is incredibly accessible by public transit. Something you’d never imagine when thinking of the rural mountainside! Roam buses run from May 21st till Oct 11th. You can get a bus from Banff Village High School Bus Terminal directly to Johnston Canyon (#9 Bus). The journey takes about 35 minutes and runs seven times a day. Be sure to check the schedule in advance, so you don’t miss your return bus. A 1-Day Pass costs $10 for adults, $5 for students and seniors, and children under 12 are free!
To get to Banff via public transit you can take the On-It Regional Transit which offers weekend-only service to and from Calgary to Banff Village. This means you can easily spend a whole weekend in Banff without a car! Each one-way tickets only cost $10! Super affordable, and great for any budget. Be sure to book your spots in advance as there are only so many buses available.
Many people love cycling along the scenic Bow Valley Parkway. And avid cyclists who’ve brought their bikes to Banff can opt to bike over to Johnston Canyon Canyon, instead of dealing with the parking situation. From the nearby Castle Mountain Chalets, the ride is only 21 minutes! From Banff Village, the ride will take about 1 hour and 20 minutes, depending on where you are departing from. But it is such a beautiful journey, the time will fly by. Even if you don’t have your own bike many hotels and airbnbs rent them out as a part of your stay. There is ample bike parking at the trailhead, but bikes are not allowed on the trail itself.
Entry into Banff National Park requires a valid Park Pass. The cost of the pass is necessary for maintaining the national park. A single adult pass costs $9.80 CAD, and children (6- 17) and seniors are $8.30 CAD. You can purchase a family pass for $19.60 CAD, which covers your entire vehicle’s party.
You can purchase your Park Pass at the gate when you enter the park’s boundaries. But better yet, purchase it online before your arrival. Buying the pass in advance means you can simply print it off and then drive right into the park. That saves a bunch of time when there is a lineup to buy passes at the gate. Be sure to keep your pass on the dashboard of your vehicle, where it is clearly visible. Park rangers periodically check cars for their passes, and you don’t want to get a ticket unduly!
The trail to the lower falls is considered accessible by wheelchair and stroller. The first part of the trail is paved, and the rest is located along a raised catwalk. It’s mostly flat, with an estimated average grade of 4%. There are safety rails located along either side of the catwalk. The trail is fairly narrow along these catwalks and during the summer it can get pretty crowded so you want to take that into consideration. But usually people are very considerate if you need to get by.
Johnston Canyon is open year-round, but the trail can get very icy during the winter and early spring. During these months, be sure you are only heading out on the trail if you have the proper shoes for walking on ice. If you are interested in a guided tour of the icy walkway, you can take a tour with an experienced leader. They will also provide you with the proper gear, which includes ice cleats & hiking poles.
Proper walking shoes are recommended throughout the year. Even for the easy part of the trail, you want to ensure you always have good footing as the paths can be a bit slippery. There are no water fountains found at the trailhead, so be sure to bring a large water bottle to keep hydrated. A lovely heated washroom is available near the parking lot, so definitely take advantage of that before you head off on the trail.
Although many people don’t seem to worry too much about bears on very popular and busy trails like this one, you ALWAYS need to be bear aware! While the noise of the busy trail is a deterrent for the bears, this doesn’t mean they aren’t around. And black bears have frequently been spotted right near the parking lot. Most visitors to the trail opt to simply hike to the easier lower falls viewing platform.
The more difficult Upper Falls trek is much less crowded, and therefore there is even more of a need to be aware of the likelihood of bears. Something no hiker (or walker) should be without is bear spray. Bear spray can usually be purchased at campground stores or even in your hotel. Ask hotel staff if anyone left any bear spray behind. Since bear spray cannot be brought on the plane, people often check out and simply leave it behind. In addition to bear spray, being bear aware on your walks is of the utmost importance. Walk and hike in large groups. Talk loudly, so you don’t surprise any bears, especially when turning around corners. Watch out for fresh signs of bear activity, including droppings, torn-up logs, overturned rocks, and diggings.
During the summer months, Banff can suffer from the smoke brought in from forest fires. Sometimes these forest fires can be as far afield as British Columbia. Nevertheless, the effect of this smoke can really damper the views you’d expect in Banff. I was amazed when we visited to see how in just 24-hours, the smoke rolled in and completely obscured the mountains all around us. To the point where you’d never know they were there. But as quickly as the smoke can roll in, it can disappear.
Thankfully, Johnston Canyon is the perfect hike to do when it’s smokey, as the views inside the canyon aren’t affected at all by the smoke. So this hike is the ideal thing to do if you want an alternative activity for those smokey days. Just be sure to wear a mask to help avoid too much smoke inhalation. If the smoke is really dense, consider skipping any excessive exercise outdoors, especially with health conditions like asthma.
As the hike is located within the canyon, the humidity combined with the shade of the trees above, makes this trail feel much cooler than in other areas of Banff. Dress warmer than you might think, and always dress in layers. Once you warm up for a bit, you can simply shed a few layers as you go. It’s always best to be over prepared for the cold rather than be freezing along the way and ruin your experience. I would recommend a good hat and scarf as well to keep warm.
Once you pass under the large wooden archway which invites you into the Lower Fall trail, you are immediately flung into the depths of the forest. From the very start, as you cross over the first bridge, you will be able to see the deep blue creek below. The peaceful sound of rushing waters echoing beneath your feet.
Along the lower trail, see if you can spot the endangered Black Swift bird. The area around the trail is a popular breeding ground for nesting pairs. During the springtime and early summer, the area is heavily protected from reproducing without intrusion.
Other animals you might spot along the water are Townsend’s Warblers, Dark-eyed Juncos, Golden-Mantled Ground Squirrels and Red Squirrels.
Because of the humid waters, the forest around the canyon has grown rich with lush pine trees. The forest floor is covered in a dense blanket of moss. The ancient trees are often covered in Old Man’s Beard lichen during the spring and summer. This pale grayish-green moss looks like tassels anchored onto the bark or small twigs of the tree. The long tendrils resembling the strands of hair on an old man’s beard, hence the name.
Throughout the walk, you’ll follow the turquoise waters of the creek, which flows from the waterfalls. Like most of the water around Banff, the blue colours is due to the glaciers found throughout the mountains. When the glaciers melt in the springtime, they carry glacier silt, or rock flour, into the water. This silt contains tiny particles which reflect the sunlight giving the waters that turquoise blue or green colour.
At the end of the Lower Trail, you will come to a short bridge that crosses over the falls. The bridge brings you to the mouth of a tunnel and leads you into a darkened cave. The cave serves as a defacto viewing platform, just a couple metres from the falls. Standing in here, you can really take in the power of the falling water as the sound is almost deafening. You will be doubt be misted by the crashing waters when you walk inside, but if it’s a scorching day, this might be a welcome surprise!
From here, you can choose to head back to the trailhead or continue on along the Upper Falls Trail. The trail immediately changes from the flat, paved pathways below to a steep climb into the rugged forest. You’ll notice the crowds from the lower trail disperse, as this part of the trail is much less busy. The echo of voices slowly disappears, and you are left with little more than the crack of the wind on the swaying trees and the sound of the water beside you.
Towards the end of the trail, another series of manmade catwalks is created to allow hikers to get up over the falls to see the giant waterfall. This dramatic 40-metres tall waterfall crashes down into a deep pool below. There is also a secondary viewing platform that can give you access to the bottom part of the falls.
Johnston Canyon Trail is truly the perfect place to come for newbie hikers looking for that iconic outdoors adventure in Banff without being too difficult to manage. I saw dozens of families, with young kids in tow, easily making their way along the Upper Falls Trails. I was so glad I decided to venture out onto this trail as it gave me a taste of the incredible things you can see and do on hikes. It got me all excited to try something even more difficult next time!
Let me know in the comments if you’re an experienced hiker or if you have never even thought about going on a hike during your travels. Take it from me; trying something new or out of your comfort zone is always worth it!
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Great post! I especially appreciated your paragraph about land acknowledgement, which is something I think a lot of travel writers leave out. Beautiful pictures too!
Thanks Robin, I really appreciate your comment. The Land Acknowledgements are something I'm definitely trying to do more of so I like that it doesn't go unnoticed.