Travelling to Mexico City, the first moment you step off the airplane and out into the city, you will pass by hundreds of street food stalls. From the moment you get into your uber and ride in from the airport your sense will be set alight. You’ll pass hundreds of aluminum roadside eateries and bicyclists with huge baskets of food balancing on their handlebars. Other vendors sell sweets directly through car windows at stoplights. Wherever you look in this incredibly vibrant city, you’ll find street food! But the question on every visitors salivating lips is the same. “Is it safe to eat street food in Mexico City?”
Truthfully, the answer isn’t simple. Some people might say no trip to Mexico City is complete without trying street food. Others will implore you to never even sample a single bite of anything on the street. And the truth, like most truths, falls somewhere in the middle.
I have never gotten food poisoning in Mexico City. But I HAVE had mild food poisoning in Lisbon, California and even in Canada, where I live! Travellers often get sick from new bacteria, which is a risk in any foreign country. Does that mean you should go right out and drink the tap water? No. But there are plenty of ways to keep safe while still enjoying yourself and indulging in local cuisine.
These are some of my key tips to follow to ensure you eat as safely as possible when going out in search of street food. Remember, there are always risks involved but if you follow these tips you’ll have the best chance of making it out without the rath of Montezuma!
While there are plenty of foods you should try, there are also several things I would recommend avoiding. While others might encourage you to try it all, these things can easily be sampled elsewhere.
Even if you follow all these tips, you might get sick. Perhaps with Montezuma’s revenge or even just with a touch of an upset stomach from overeating. They call traveller’s diahrea ‘Montezuma’s revenge,’ caused by drinking the local water or eating foods containing E. Coli bacterium. The sickness is seen as “retribution” for the Spanish’s slaughter and enslavement of the Aztec people.
Traveller’s diarrhea usually lasts from 3 to 7 days and is rarely life-threatening. Symptoms include abrupt onset of diarrhea, Fever, Nausea and vomiting, Bloating, Malaise (weakness or discomfort), Explosive and painful gas, Stomach cramps, Loss of appetite. I am always sure to pack antidiarrheal medication, which is often the worse part of the sickness. Pepto-Bismol and Tums are also great to help soothe the symptoms. I am also sure to pack Hydralyte packets that help restore lost electrolytes. If you are especially worried, you can go to a travel doctor who will prescribe you some antidiarrheal medication that is stronger than the over-the-counter options.
If none of these work for you and the symptoms worsen, you should immediately get yourself to a doctor. In Mexico City, many large chain pharmacies have doctors inside. These doctors can see you almost immediately and either prescribe some medication there on the spot or send you to the hospital if it is serious enough. Medical treatments in Mexico are generally fairly inexpensive but having traveller’s insurance will help cover these unforeseen circumstances.
If, after all these tips, you’re still hesitant, take a street food tour! Street food tours are an amazing opportunity to have a local guide you around to tried and true places. These staple stops in their community have been vetted, and the guides know them to be hygenic and delicious.
Communication
Ordering
Foods and Eating
Why the street, of course? But it’s true, finding the perfect area to indulge in everything on this list is virtually impossible. There are definitely some areas where the vendors converge. But for the most part, it’s one of the joys of travelling to discover your favourite stalls. But here is a shortlist of some surefire spots where you can almost always find quality street food.
Your local tianguis is always an excellent opportunity to try some fantastic street vendors. A tianguis is an open-air market held on certain market days. These markets are a tradition that has its roots well into the pre-Hispanic period and continues almost unchanged into the present day. La Condesa’s Tuesday Tianguis is my personal number one pick!
The Mercado Medellín in Roma Sud is another hot spot for the street vendors that surround the outer edges f the marketplace. Any street food around a market is sure to have the freshest ingredients as they would have been purchased just next door inside the market.
If you want to find a place with all the best Antojitos Mexicanos inside the Antojitos Mexicanos Market Juanita in Coyoacan. Inside the red brick, arches is a small open-air room which a series of stalls around the edges serving the best Mexican bites. Everything here is made fresh and on the spot and a very reliable place to check out!
Puebla Street in Roma Norte has a large confluence of incredible street vendors. As they seem to congregate on the edges of this new trendy community, they tend to have a better edge of trendy and popular food.
If you walk south of Alameda Central, head down Calle Lopez until you reach Vizcainas Street. On this corner, there are several permanent stalls that serve up the cities best tacos!
Early in the morning, on the corner of Alfonso Reyes and Av. Tamaulipas in La Condesa, you’ll find the most popular Torta de Chilaques vendor in all of the city. People start lining up even before the stall has arrived, and by midday, everything will be gone. Show up to the corner in the morning and just get in line; you won’t be disappointed.
Walking around some of the cities most popular parks is a great way to come across street vendors. My favourites are Alameda Central in the Historic Centra, Parque México in La Condea, Alameda de Santa María in Colonia Santa María la Ribera, and ofcourse, the great Bosque de Chapultepec.
Most street food vendors will not speak much English, so don’t come expecting them to cater to you. But also, don’t let that scare you away. Street food stalls are always plastered with signage, so it’s easy to see what’s available and how much it costs. Using this guide, you’ll be able to learn the words for the various must-have dishes.
Always greet them with cheery Buenos días, Buenas tardes, or Buenas noches, depending on what time of day it is. A smile goes a long way. Simply point to the item on the grill or even the sign which advertises the dish. If you don’t want something, just point at that item and say sin (without.) And always say por favor (please.)
Cash is the only way to pay, so be sure you have some on hand. Never come with big bills and if possible try to have exact change. Usually, if you are eating several things, you settle up after you are finished eating. Unless you are taking something to eat elsewhere, it’s typical and considered polite to pay at the end. Just follow what the locals are doing, and you’ll get the drift.
Often street food stalls serve the food on a plate covered in plastic wrap to eat on top of. When you’re done, simply hand the plate back to the cashier. Each plate is “cleaned” by removing the plastic, and a new sheet is placed on top for the next customer.
There is nothing better than freshly squeezed orange or grapefruit juice in the morning. Now, unfiltered water is a sure-fire way to catch Montezuma’s revenge. But freshly squeezed fruits, made right in front of your eyes, are a safe bet! The perfect way to enjoy a morning beverage without worrying about any contamination. I always ask for a fresh one if I see some pre-made ones sitting out just in case.
Another beverage you can safely drink is from the coconut vendors. These are less frequently found, but don’t hesitate to run after him down the street if you see one. The vendors will slice open a fresh coconut for you to drink the sweet nectar within. And don’t worry, you won’t need to lug around the entire coconut. The vendor will pour the liquid into a tall and thin plastic bag. He then inserts a long straw to take your drink on the go.
Stepping out of your hotel in the morning, you are frequently greeted by a series of the same sounds. There are the street sweepers, cleaning the many fallen leaves from the surrounding tree. The recycling collectors with their repetitive announcements playing over loudspeakers on top of their car. And then there are the melodic sounds of the cycling tamales vendors. Tamales have been eaten in Mexico since as far back as 8000 BC! It is like biting into a piece of history. Tamales are made by taking dried corn husks and stuffing them full of corn masa, cheese, chicken or pork. The filling is often topped with salsa or, in some cases, mole and cooked in the corn husk casing.
Tamales are the perfect handheld food. Therefore, a great choice in the morning to enjoy on your walk to work. Or, in our case, a walk around the neighbourhood. Best of all, no waste! Just throw away the corn husk, and it will biodegrade in no time. But yes, please be sure to throw it away in a garbage bin and not on the ground!
One of my favourite ways to warm up on a chilly morning is with a cup of Esquites. Elote and Esquites are made with either regular yellow corn or the thicker hominy variety. Usually, it’s easy to tell the difference as the hominy is like corn kernels on steroids. The ingredients in the dish are the same whether you get an elote or an esquites. It is simply how it is served that is the main difference. Elote is served on the cob of corn itself, whereas esquites are served off the cob in a cup. Both are topped with mayo, cotija cheese, lime, salt and usually a sprinkling of chilli. It’s messy, and it’s delicious!
I usually advise people to opt for an elote as they tend to be more consistently fresh. Whereas the esquites can often just boil away for hours. The bad ones can be rather unpleasant, but keep trying until you find a reliable vendor. And since they only cost a dollar you won’t need to worry about losing out too much.
When I first came to Mexico City, I was enthralled with these blue corn, oval-shaped lumps of dough. Groups of women would hover over their hot grills every morning like a coven of good witches. I learned that these were called Tlacoyos, and the grill was, in fact, called a comal. Like so many street foods, this dish has pre-Hispanic origins. The word tlacoyo is derived from the Nahuatl word tlahtlaōyoh, which means snack or appetizer.
A tlacoyo is made with blue corn masa and stuffed with pork, cheese or beans. And my favourite, sliced nopales. Nopales are cactus paddles usually cut into fine strips and folded into the tlacoyo. They have a bit of a crunchy texture and sour taste resembling asparagus or okra. I love the bite it leans to the dish and how it completely transforms the flavours around it.
Tortas are another popular breakfast item you’ll see being made on the street every morning in Mexico City. A torta is essentially a HUGE breakfast sandwich. The key ingredient in the torta is the bread. Specifically a bolillo roll. This is the Mexican version of crusty french bread. A rigid exterior melded with a light and fluffy interior. The bun is sliced open and filled with a myriad of different toppings.
Tortas de Chilaquiles is a popular variation found mainly in Mexico City. Chilaquiles on their own is a fantastic breakfast option but usually found in restaurants. Chilaquiles consist of a plate of tortilla chips doused in green or red chilli sauce. Then they are topped with a fried egg, cheese and sliced green onions. Most of the time, this dish requires a fork and spoon to eat. So, to create an on-the-go version, inventive vendors simply put the entirety of the dish inside the hearty bolillo roll. And there you have it; Tortas de Chilaquiles!
You’ll also often see signs on the street for the Torta Cubano. The Torta Cubano is stuffed to bursting with ingredients. Despite the name, the sandwich has little to do with Cuba. In the 1950s, a cook opened his restaurant on the Calle Republica de Cuba in the historic centre. He made a name for himself, selling his tortas stuffed with a multitude of different meats he was trying to use up at the end of the day. The dish caught on and goes by the name of the street in which it was first invented!
Today a Torta Cubano still is served with a pile of meat. It can be a combination of roasted pork, chorizo, carne asada, ham and beef. Then it is further topped with lots of cheese and grilled veggies. Every vendor makes his a bit differently, his own particular recipe or whatever meat was on offer that day. These Tortas are a BIG MEAL! So ome with a BIG appetite.
Early in the morning, you’ll see vendors peddling around town hauling huge plastic bags or baskets full of fresh pastries. These are called Pan Dulce which means “sweet breads”. The vendors also tend to pull along with them a huge orange thermos filled with fresh coffee. The variety of pastries changes based on what’s available that day. These pastries are a sure-fire option if you’d squeamish about street food. They are very cheap so if you see someone riding by, be sure to stop them! Often the pastries are from local, well-established bakeries. So despite the understated appearance, these tend to be extremely tasty!
Many a street stall will feature the words “Antojitos Mexicanos” in large lettering. Below this, there will usually be a smaller menu featuring a list of the available options. Antojitos Mexicanos translates as “little cravings.” Just a little something to tide you over until dinnertime. The list of items found on an Antijitos truck is enormous. But usually, they are all made from generally the same set of ingredients but assembled a bit differently. Antojitos Mexicanos are a great option if you don’t eat meat and have a bit of experience speaking Spanish. You can easily ask for the meat to be left out. And because many of the dishes contain beans you’ll still get a nice and filling snack.
One of the most popular items you think you might be familiar with is the quesadillas. But authentic quesadillas are not exactly what you might expect. Authentic quesadillas are indeed made with a folder tortilla but not automatically filled with cheese. In fact, unless you order the queso quesadilla, you probably won’t get any cheese.
Instead, the tortilla is slathered in a layer of guisado (meat stew.) Then the tortilla is grilled or fried. The stew can be made of anything and sometimes contains meat offcuts such as tongue, cheek, eyes, nose, stomach. If you want to avoid the guisado, you can opt to order the polo (chicken), queso (cheese) or even champignons (mushrooms). While you might start with something more familiar I definitely recommend trying the guisado at least once.
My favourite variety, though, is the deep-fried quesadilla. There is something about biting into that crunchy exterior to discover that soft stew inside that is so hypnotizing. Often vendors top the fried quesadillas with shredded Lechuga (lettuce). The lettuce should be avoided as it could have been washed in unfiltered water. Simply ask for it sin Lechuga (without lettuce.)
Sopes are made with thick corn masa dough. They are placed onto the hot comal and pressed into a round shape with pinched edges. Then the fillings or guisado are spooned inside the edges. It’s almost like an edible plate! Sometimes the dough is made with crushed beans, so you get this very savoury tasting dough.
The only big difference between a sope and a huarache is the shape. Huarache translates into “sandal,” which is the shape the dough is formed to resemble. Once crispy, the dough is topped with beans, meat, salsa and cotija. Same deal applies to the lettuce.
Gorditas are made with the same dough as the sopes and huaraches. But instead of placing the filling on top, the filling is placed within. Gorditas are shaped into smaller but thick, circular disks and fried up on the comal. After cooking, they are left on the edge of the grill to be kept warm. Once ordered, the cook will grab a hot gordita, slice it open, and fill the interior with meat, salsa, cilantro, and onion. You can also have a deep-fried gordita where they stuff the filling inside first and then fry it up.
Flautas and Taquitos are two of my favourite Antijitos as they are actually bite-sized. So they won’t fill you up too much. The two dishes are very similar, consisting of a small tortilla filled with shredded chicken or beef. The tortilla is rolled up like a cigar and fried until crispy. They can then be topped with shredded lettuce or cabbage, crema, cojita cheese and guacamole. The main difference is that Flautas are made with a slightly larger flour tortilla. While Taquitos are made with smaller-sized corn tortillas.
My favourite afternoon sweet treat is always found at the fruit vendors. Their food carts are always easy to spot as they feature vibrant red or striped umbrellas. Underneath, their glass cabinets are filled with brightly coloured fruits like watermelon, mango, pineapple and papaya.
After selecting what kind of fruit you want the vendor will ask you if you want the traditional toppings. This includes; lime, salt and chilli. I know what you’re going to say, “salt and chilli on fruit?!” and I know it sounds strange, but if you’ve never tried it, you need to try it at least once. The salt contrasts the sweet fruits so perfectly! And the hint of spice adds another level of flavour.
Another topping often drizzled on top of the fruit is chamoy. Chamoy is a savoury condiment made from pickled fruit. The flavour is salty, sweet, sour, and spiced with chilis. It’s wonderful and something you need to try at least once!
Often found while walking through parks and plazas are the huge stalls and carts covered in various chips, nuts and sweets. These stalls are so vibrant they also pull you in towards them. There is usually a combination of freshly made chips in plain plastic bags and brand-name chips in their neon packaging. In addition to the chips, they also carry tall bags stuffed full of Chicharrónes. Chicharrón are fried pork rinds; they are wonderfully crispy, full of flavour and naturally salted. To amp up your afternoon snack, most stalls will also offer to cover your chips in lime, chilli and sometimes salsa!
Also found at the chips stands is a dish called Dorilocos. This invention was actually made right here in Mexico City in recent years. It consists of a bag of Doritos sliced open and topped with various fresh ingredients. These can be anything from carrots, cucumber, peanuts, radishes, corn, and peanuts. Then you can add sauces like chamoy, Valentina and of course a fresh squeeze of lime. It’s eaten with a fork and looks like a chip salad!
By far the most popular thing people come to Mexico City in search of are tacos! There are so many different varieties and most than I could list here. But I’ve done my best to lay out the most popular varieties to find in street stalls all over the city.
Taco al pastor or “shepherd style” tacos are made from spit-grilled pork. The dish was created after Lebanese immigrants introduced shawarma to Mexicans. The pork is marinaded in adobada (red chile) paste and spit-roasted with a giant pineapple placed on top. When served, it is accompanied by sliced onions, cilantro, and the all-important roasted pineapple. Added to give it that hint of sweetness. Taco al pastor is my favourite kind of taco, and there is no visit to Mexico City without trying them.
Barbacoa is an elusive taco as it is usually only available in street stalls on the weekend. The word Barbacoa translates into Barbeque as the meat is made from a long and slow braising method. These tacos are usually made of sheep as this is the most traditional meat for Barbacoa. It is only available on the weekends because the process takes all week to ensure the meat is perfectly cooked. The method of preparation dates all the way back to pre-Columbian times. They begin by digging a hole in the ground and covering it with heated stones. The stones heat the hole for an entire day before the core temperate is hot enough to cook the meat.
After this, the prepared sheep is wrapped in maguey leaves. The leaves give the meat insulation from the hot stones and also flavour the meat while it cooks. The oven is then covered in the same leaves and a layer of earth. A fire is lit on top, and the meat is left to cook for around 12 hours or more. The result is incredible and not to be missed if you spot it!
Carne Asada tacos are made from freshly grilled beef. The dish comes from the Sonoran province of Mexico, where they have large rattle ranches. The flap steak or short loin cuts are grilled over hot charcoal giving it that iconic char-grilled flavour. These tacos are also called Al Carbon after the carbon or “charcoal” they are cooked with.
Carnitas are another popular variety made from fatty pork shoulder. Instead of being grilled, this meat is made by cooking the pork in its own fat. The pork is marinated in orange and garlic and cooked for a long time on low heat. Once cooked, it is chopped up finely, as carnitas translate to “little bits of meat.”
Birria Tacos are made from a stew of marinated goat meat. The stew is slathered over a corn tortilla with onions, cilantro and salsa. It is then often paired with a cup of consomé or the broth from the stew. You can either just sip on this or dunk your tacos into the broth, almost like a french dip sandwich. Many locals eat Birria Tacos as a cure for their hangovers so you’ll often see these stands out in the morning.
Tacos de Canasta are a popular cheap snack in Mexico City. The term Tacos de Canasta translates into “Tacos of the basket,” which is precisely what they are. Walking around busy areas of town, you might spot men and women with large cloth-covered baskets filled with steaming tacos. There is no kitchen on wheels, just premade tacos stuffed into baskets. On the backs of their bikes are often small jars of toppings to add to the “sweaty tacos”. These aren’t my favourite as I can’t get behind the slightly moist tortillas. But they are incredibly inexpensive and a very Mexico City thing to eat.
Churros are a late-night snack to keep your eyes out for. A churro is an iconic Mexican pastry that resembles a doughnut. It is made by deep-frying unsweetened dough in super hot oil. It is then sprinkled with sugar or cinnamon. They come in both straight and spiral varieties. The fancier versions you might find in restaurants usually come with a dipping sauce on the side. But the street versions typically have the fillings pipped inside the hollow center to make for an easy on-the-go snack. The most commonly found filling is chocolate, but you might also see dulce de leche, strawberry and vanilla.
In the end, if you are worried about street food making you sick, don’t stress yourself out. There are hundreds of excellent restaurants in this city. In many of them, you’ll be able to try a variation of street food in what may feel like a more comfortable environment. But always be aware that food poisoning can get you anywhere; it’s not exclusive to street food or Mexico City. Follow my advice and start slowly. Soon you’ll be running down the street to catch your favourite tamale vendor before they run out before 9 am!
Let me know in the comment what your favourite street food city is or what dish from this list you’re most looking forward to trying.
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