Without a doubt, there is no more popular time to visit Provence than when the sun-soaked fields are painted with brushstrokes of purple and green emanating from the massive ocean of lavender that bloom all across the valley. Driving along the hillsides with the windows down, you can smell the fields of lavender even before you can see them with your eyes. And what a sight they are when you finally see them appear. Driving along a Lavender Route in Provence is a spectacular way to see these beautiful fields that stretch out as far as the eye can see. Each one framed perfectly under the watchful eye of the bright blue sun and the mountains far off in the distance.
Three different regions around Provence are known for their lavender-producing fields. These are the Valensole Plateau, Pays de Sault and the Luberon Valley. I always choose one area to make a day out to discover the magic of the magnificent lavender fields in Provence. Focusing on one specific region allows you to explore it to the fullest. Discover hidden corners and stop to relax and soak in the scenery. So today, let’s dive (or drive) into the fields around the Luberon Valley.
The Luberon Lavender Route is a day-long self-guided road trip. It leads you across the Luberon from east to west, stopping in some of the most picturesque villages. While you might be able to speed through each stop, the Luberon and Provence in generally a place for taking things slow. Letting the atmosphere of this place seep in as you just cruise along, admiring the fantastical views out your window. And, of course, stopping for a glass of wine with views of the lavender fields along the way. This tour is a great way to explore many of Provence’s iconic villages and the stunning lavender landscapes.
Nestled in the heart of Provence, the enchanting Luberon Valley captivates all who enter its borders. With its stunning medieval villages and breathtaking landscapes, there is no escaping the spell this place weaves all around you. Cradled between the Vaucluse and Alpes-de-Haute-Provence is the great Luberon Massif. The Luberon Massif is a series of limestone hills forming the backbone of the valley, creating its captivating backdrop. These hills are adorned with lush greenery, fragrant lavender fields, and vineyards, creating a patchwork of colours that change with the seasons. But no doubt the most magical of these seasons is the summer when the fields are awash with purple flowers from the blooming lavender.
“Lavender” comes from the Latin “lavare,” meaning washing. Since ancient Antiquity, the Romans knew how powerful the lavender plant was. They used it for its medicinal properties and aromatic qualities, and especially for washing. But Lavender is not native to Provence. It was brought to the countryside by the Romans. The Romans knew that Provence’s dry, sunny climate and well-drained soils would be ideal for lavender growth. In the Middle Ages, lavender cultivation in Provence was primarily undertaken by monastic communities. Monks recognized the value of lavender for its therapeutic uses and began growing it in monastery gardens.
Over time, the cultivation of lavender expanded beyond monasteries. Farmers and locals started cultivating lavender on a larger scale. In the 19th century, the demand for lavender products, such as essential oil, perfume, and soaps, increased domestically and internationally. And lavender became one of the most important agricultural exports for the region. Distillation techniques improved, allowing for efficient processing of lavender crops. Today, lavender fields in Provence are an iconic symbol of the region, attracting tourists from all over the world.
The Lavender in the Luberon Valley is the first to bloom from June to early July. The exact timing of the lavender bloom can vary slightly from year to year, depending on weather conditions and other factors. It is always a good idea to check with local sources, such as local lavender farms or tourist information centers in the area, for the most up-to-date information on the lavender bloom in the Luberon Valley.
If you book your trip well in advance and the weather isn’t behaving, and you arrive too late to see the blooms in the Luberon, you can always drive further up towards the Valensole Plateau. Or even higher up in the Pays de Sault to see the lavender fields there. These bloom slightly later in the seasons due to their high elevation.
Before entering lavender fields, remember to respect the farmers’ hard work and follow any posted guidelines. If there are any roped-off areas, avoid entering. They are there for a reason. But with so many different fields to visit, you will always find somewhere you can walk right into the fields to get those sprawling views. Remember to avoid stepping on the plants at all costs. This is how these farmers make a living, and you would hate to be responsible for damaging their crops.
Always be sure to walk only down the rows of lavender and not over them. And never pick the flowers. There are so many places around Provence to buy very inexpensive stalks of lavender; there is no need to pick them yourself in case you damage the plant by doing so. Plus, stalks of lavender must be dried to be preserved, so best to buy them after they have been left to dry.
During the summer, when the lavender blooms in Provence, it can be impossibly hot. So be sure to wear plenty of sunscreens and always bring a large, wide-brimmed hat to ensure you aren’t directly exposed to the sun. Especially in the fields, there is no shade to escape under, so you will always be in direct sunlight. As you walk around in the lavender fields, wear some sensible shoes. Sneakers or comfortable sandals are the best options for footwear.
Bring a nice, thick picnic blanket with you if you want to have a little picnic along the way. Most fields don’t have super soft ground, so having a good, thick base to sit on is a great idea to ensure you’re comfortable. Also, bring everything you’ll need for the picnic, from food and drinks to cutlery and napkins. And always make sure to leave your picnic spot exactly how you found it and bring all your garbage home with you. Be sure you bring plenty of water, more than you’ll think you need, for long days out in the sun.
To make the most of this photographic region of Provence, you’ll want to rent a car to get around. It’s advisable to book your rental car in advance, especially during peak travel seasons. When picking a rental car for your travels in Provence, I always air on the smaller side. Smaller cars are ideal for navigating narrow village streets. And some roads in Provence you might think are one lane only, but before you know it, you’ll discover they aren’t. And the smaller your car, the easier it is to scoot by. Just be sure to pack lightly to ensure you can fit all your luggage into the car.
Be sure to familiarize yourself with France’s road rules and driving customs. In France, you drive on the right side of the road. And remember that priority is given to vehicles coming from the right at intersections without traffic lights or signs. The roads in Provence have very strict speed limits. And there are hidden speed cameras even in small villages and dirty roads. And these speed cameras will fine you for going even 10km over the limit! These fines will be mailed to you back home, so there is so escaping them after your trip. So you should always keep an eye on these speed limits. Some cars come with a GPS system that will alert you to the change in speed limits. Or use Waze to help you get an alert when a speed camera is in effect.
Before stopping your car to get out and explore the fields, you’ll want to do so safely. You don’t want to stop your car in the middle of the road and block oncoming traffic. Trust me; there are many places to stop, so if you think you’re missing an opportunity, another will come any minute. Many lavender fields have come to expect tourists these days. And there will often be a patch of dirt where you can park your car, off to the side of the road, near the fields. Never ever park or drive your car right into the lavender plants field.
Lots of the lavender producers and shops have parking lots out front. You can explore the shops and then head back to see the fields beyond. When in villages, there are both free and paid parking options. Pay attention to parking signs to avoid any fines or penalties.
You have to expect to see a lot of people during the summer months. But arriving early in the morning or right at sunset will ensure you get as much of the field to yourself as possible. And remember, if you just turn your camera this way or that, it’s easy enough to get a shot without other people in it. Be kind to those around you; everyone is there for the same reason.
While renting a car and going at your own pace is always my recommendation, if you don’t want to drive yourself and instead just want to relax and be led by a guide, you have plenty of options. These guided tours stop off at producers and fields and combine your day trip with a visit to famous neighbouring villages like Gordes and Roussillon.
When it comes to lavender, there are over 30 different species. But the two most popular you’ll find in Provence are Fine Lavender and Lavandine. While they both belong to the Lavandula genus, there are distinct differences in the characteristics, aroma, and cultivation of each plant.
Fine lavender (or Lavandula angustifolia) typically grows in compact, bushy formations, reaching around two-three feet. It showcases slender, linear leaves with a gray-green hue. Its slender and elongated flowers form tight spikes at the top of the stems. The blossoms display a lovely lavender-purple colour. This flower offers a delicate, sweet, and floral fragrance. Its scent is often soothing, calming, and reminiscent of the quintessential lavender aroma.
Lavandine (or Lavandula x intermedia) is a much larger plant, often growing up to three-four feet tall. Its flowers are shorter and fuller than Fine Lavender, forming dense and rounded flower spikes. The colour of the blossoms can range from lavender-purple to bluish-purple. Lavandine exhibits a more intense fragrance compared to Fine Lavender. Its scent carries a sharper, medicinal note with hints of camphor (woody scent), making it suitable for various aromatherapy applications. Lavandine also typically blooms a bit later than Fine Lavender.
One of the best places to start your journey along the Luberon Lavender Route is at the Musée de la Lavande. This delightful and immersive museum allows you to explore Provence’s rich history of cultivating and producing lavender and lavender products. The museum is nestled in the picturesque countryside, just outside the town of Coustellet (which has an incredible Sunday morning market FYI.) The small building is submerged in rolling fields of lavender, creating a serene and idyllic setting right off the start. Just by walking up to its doors, you are greeted by the enchanting aroma of lavender that fills the air.
Inside the museum, you can learn more about the history of lavender cultivation, its origins, various uses throughout the centuries, and the traditional harvesting and distillation methods. My favourite part of the museum had to be its collection of vintage ephemera and antique perfume bottles. If you’re someone who loves history and beautiful things, this is worth checking out!
Hours: Open every day in the summer from 10 am – 6 pm
Tradition & Heritage Tour with Audio Guide Admission: Adults €8 | Student €7 | Children (11-16) €4 | Children under 10 are free
From the museum, we take off on the D2 highway. When you reach the turn-off towards the D15, watch for the Gordes Lookout Point Parking lot. From this easy-to-reach spot, you have the most incredible view over the valley and across to the historic town of Gordes. We will have a chance to enter Gordes later on in the tour, but there is nowhere to get this view of the perched village. It seemed to reach up into the sky, like a multi-tiered wedding cake or something out of the Lord of the Rings! This spot is not to be missed.
Probably the most photographed lavender field in Provence is the fields surrounding the Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque. The Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque is a breathtaking Cistercian abbey that has stood in this same spot for centuries. Surrounded by rolling hills and fields of lavender, one is immediately struck by its striking silhouette. The Abbey’s stone walls rise majestically against lush greenery and purple blooms, evoking a sense of serenity and timelessness. Whether you arrive simply to gaze at the scenery or enter the Abbey itself, please remember that this is a functional monastic order. Where monks come to pray and work. So please be respectful when exploring the grounds.
Walking through the Abbey’s iron gates, visitors are greeted by a tranquil courtyard adorned with vibrant flower beds and meticulously manicured gardens. The scent of lavender fills the air, adding a touch of aromatic magnificence to the surroundings. The Abbey’s peaceful atmosphere invites contemplation and reflection, an essential part of the monastic order. And for us visitors, it provides a respite from the fast pace of our modern life.
The simple yet elegant Romanesque architecture dates back to the 12th century. To enter the monastery, you do need to pay an admission fee. But if you come here to admire the beauty of the lavender fields, it’s only right to give back to the order to help them maintain these gardens for years to come. So I would highly recommending heading inside.
Inside, the interior reveals the austere yet captivating beauty of the Cistercian order. The Abbey’s church features a simple yet graceful vaulted ceiling adorned with delicate stone carvings. Windows allow soft rays of sunlight to filter through, casting that eternal glow on the cold stone floors. The stillness and reverence of the Abbey create a sense of awe in all those who enter.
But the most impressive part of the interior is the cloisters. A cloister is an enclosed courtyard surrounded by four galleries, each featuring twelve arches leading to an ornamental garden. Ae sure to study the elegant flora motifs that decorate the garden’s columns. Although the rest of the design of the Abbey is rather austere, these little details make the space come alive. And shows the respect and reverence the order has for nature.
The surrounding lavender fields, meticulously tended by the monks, create a stunning vista that captures the essence of Provence’s natural beauty. The sight of the vibrant purple blooms against the backdrop of the Abbey is a true feast for the senses. The rule of Saint Benedict, “pray and work” (Ora et labora), teaches the monastic practice of working and praying. The monks are encouraged to work to strengthen their connection to the natural world and therein with god. Whether it is growing lavender, cultivating a vegetable garden, tending to the olive trees, making honey or maintaining buildings, the monks work tirelessly to preserve the heritage passed down to them by their predecessors.
They also have a small shop on the premises which sells a variety of goods harvested by their order. The revenue their earn helps maintain and restore the Abbey. And they each have a distinctly Provencal charm and are worth bringing home as a souvenir.
Hours: Monday to Saturday: 9:30 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. to 5 p.m | Sunday: 1 p.m. to 5 p.m.
Admission: Adult 9€ | Child (6-17) 4€ | Seniors 4€ | Student (18-25) 6€
Guided Tours are in French only. HistoPads are available in 10 languages (English, German, Italian, Spanish, Dutch, Chinese, Japanese, Polish and Portuguese) and are included with your admission.
After exploring the Abbey, hop back in the car and head into the great hillside city of Gordes. After seeing it from the viewpoint, exploring its interior is a different experience. Walking the narrow cobblestone streets of this magnificent village nestled into the hillside feels like you’ve stepped into a fairytale.
You can wander around the great Gordes Castle, a majestic fortress and architectural gem of Provence. Or simply lose yourself in the medieval ambiance as you explore the winding alleyways and stumble upon charming squares adorned with vibrant flowers. Be sure to make your way out to one of the many views points which offer panoramic pictures of the surrounding countryside. If you’re lucky, you’ll see from above the brushstrokes of purple flowers emanating from the blooming fields of Lavender.
Wind your way down toward the D2 roadway. The D2 or Route de Thorenc or Route de Gentelly is about six mins from the centre of Gordes. Once you reach it, you will begin to pass the first of many lavender fields along the side of the roads. Each one is more impressive than the next. This road feels like it is the epitome of Provencal landscapes. Cypress trees line long entryways into bygone farm buildings. Olive and cherry trees brimming with life dazzle in the distance. Rows of poppies are pressed up against the roadside. And the dramatic mountains create a mesmerizing backdrop. All while the smell of lavender wafts through the hot summer air.
Continue along the D2 for a few minutes and turn right onto D102. As you approach the Route des Gordes on the D102, you will suddenly emerge into lavender fields on either side of your car! Dense and lush, so even in the heat of the summer, you’ll want to roll that window down.
Head east on Route de Gordes/D169 towards the ochre village of Roussillon. Park your car in the parking lot at the base of the village and walk into town. Roussillon is renowned for its vibrant ochre cliffs, which paint the landscape in warm red, orange, and yellow hues. As you stroll through the town, the rich colours of the buildings, adorned with shutters in shades of blue and green, create a harmonious contrast against the backdrop of the ochre cliffs. These natural ochre deposits have been a source of inspiration for artists throughout the years. And walking the streets makes you feel inspired by the amazing colours that feel larger than life.
Take your time to explore Roussillon’s narrow streets and pause at Place de la Mairie. This is the town’s central square, where locals gather, and the vibrant ambiance invites you to savour a quiet moment. Roussillon is replete with darling artisanal boutiques and inviting cafés. One of my favourite things to do in Roussillon is to get ice cream, choosing a uniquely Provencal flavour like lavender honey, apricot rosemary, chestnut or violet. With a cool treat, I head off to enjoy my snack from the edge of the city, along the Roussillon Lookout. On a clear day, you can see all across Provence. And the purple hues of the lavender fields spread like a blanket on the valley below.
Once back at the car, take the D149 and D108 towards Bonnieux. Passing several lavender fields along the way. Before arriving in Bonnieux, we will stop off at the Pont Julien. The Pont Julien looks like a regular limestone bridge from afar. But when you get close up, you can see it’s much more than that. Here we have one of Provence’s most remarkable vestiges of the ancient Roman empire. Spanning across the Calavon River, this architectural masterpiece was constructed in the 1st century BC. It was a crucial transportation link on the Via Domitia, the principal Roman road connecting Italy and Spain. The fact the bridge still stands today is a testament to the ingenuity and engineering prowess of the Romans.
Crossing the Pont Julien is like stepping back in time. Cars can no longer travel across, but people and bicycles can go freely along the bridge. As you walk along its weathered stone surface, you can’t help but imagine the ancient Romans and the countless travellers who once journeyed across this very bridge. The panoramic views of the lush countryside and rolling hills of Provence around you provide a breathtaking backdrop, enhancing the sense of awe and wonder.
Depart from the Pont Julien and pass onto D36 via the Chemin de l’Oratoire. When you make your right turn on the D36, you will suddenly emerge onto a road flanked on either side by rolling lavender fields. One of the most iconic photography points along this road is the ‘Lavander House,‘ a hotel property with a beautiful long laneway leading to their estate. On either side of the magnificent laneway are blooming purple fields of lavender fields, guarded by two majestic stone lions on either side of the elegant iron gates.
Continue along the D36 towards the charming and picturesque town of Bonnieux. This village is another perched hilltop town which offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding countryside, vineyards, and valleys. The city is tiny, with limited parking, and the narrow roadways make it challenging to look for parking spots. I advise parking in the lot marked on the map in the new church just below the entry to the city. From here, it’s a short and scenic ten-minute walk into town.
One of the highlights of Bonnieux is its well-preserved medieval character. As you wander through its narrow, winding streets, you’ll encounter beautiful stone houses, centuries-old churches, and quaint squares. Strolling through the town, you’ll discover various artisanal shops selling everything from pottery to lavender-based products and local wines.
At the center of Bonnieux stands the Eglise Haute, or high church. The high refers to its religious status and its literal spots at the highest point in the village. The church is a magnificent example of 12th-century architecture. And even from far below, it dominates the skyline. The walk up the hill and the many stairs to reach the church rewards those who summit with a panoramic across the stunning Luberon Valley.
If you are looking for a spot to relax on your way down from the church, stop at the ‘Le Wine Club‘ on the Rue des Pénitents Blancs. This little hole in the wall (literally) is home to a well-curated wine selection with many vintages from some of the best winemakers around Provence. You can sample some of their best open bottles in brick interior vaults or outside on their peaceful back terrace.
Head back and jump in your car to make your way east toward Apt. Drive along the D36 to the D232 and north up along the D113. In about 20-minutes you’ll make your way to the beautiful entry to Les Agnels Distillerie. This Lavender distillery is a family-owned farm that has been working these fields as far back as the Middle Ages! They began distilling lavender in 1895, and five generations later, they have perfected their techniques.
Today, they have opened their doors and invited you to come inside and learn more about how they harvest the essence of these aromatic plants. You can visit a small museum and exhibition which retraces the history of the Agnel family. Inside the distillery, one of the family members will guide you, explaining their cultivation methods, the distillation processes, and the olfactory differences between lavender and lavandin. It’s a beautiful way to connect to the people who make these products and have been intimately connected to lavender for generations.
In July and August, guided tours in French take place Monday to Friday at 11 a.m. and 4 p.m., and in English at 3 p.m. Duration: 1 hour €7 per person – Free for children under 12 | Reservation required
After another 10 minutes along the D113 and up the D943B, you will arrive in the town of Apt. Apt is known for its charming medieval character, narrow streets and old buildings. But what sets this town apart is its long-standing tradition of candying fruits. In fact, Apt hosts an annual candied fruit festival called “Fête de la Confiture,” where locals celebrate this culinary tradition.
One of the best places to find these unique confections year round is with a trip to the ‘La Maison du Fruit Confit.’ Here you can taste and buy candied fruit made right here in Provence. The Romans were the first to preserve fruit year-round in honey. And little has changed, aside from replacing honey with sugar, as it is more cost-effective. This method of preserving the Provencal summer fruits like apricots, cherries, clementines, figs, melons, pears and plums is one of the oldest culinary traditions in France and one worth tasting for yourself.
If you’d like to explore more of the old town of Apt, head down to the impressive Cathédrale Sainte-Anne. This 12th-century Romanesque cathedral is another testament to the town’s Roman past. The lower crypt of the building dates back to the 1st century, as it was initially part of a Roman structure. During the medieval period, the town was fortified with rampart walls and traces of these fortifications can still be observed in certain areas.
Jumping back on the road, we continue east, towards Saignon, on the D48. Before heading through Saignon, stop at the spot marked on the “View of Saignon Lavender fields.” From here, you have the most picturesque place to see the rows upon rows of lavender plants spread out in front of the sprawling city of Saignon rising from the hillside.
Saignon is situated on a rocky outcrop overlooking the surrounding countryside. Many houses in this “rocky acropolis” have kept their medieval appearance. But to me, it is the vast array of vibrant flowers and creeping ivy that covers almost every building in town that makes this place feel like such a magical, almost storybook-like spot to visit.
If you want to grab a bite for dinner, head over to the Jardine sur le Toit, which translates to “Garden on the Roof.” Located at the top of Saignon, on the remains of the 12th century Château de Crugiere, this restaurant offers breathtaking and panoramic views of the Luberon on their garden terrace. While the views are extraordinary, the restaurant’s vibe is comfortable and relaxed, featuring down-to-earth Provencal classics. The perfect spot to enjoy a delicious meal made from local produce across the valley you’ve traversed.
To finish your day along the Luberon Lavender Route, go northeast along the D174 to the Petit Cabanon aux Lavandes. This small stone house with traditional wooden shutters is nestled amid lavender fields on the hills of the Luberon. Today, it has been restored and rented out on Airbnb to a few lucky visitors. But if you aren’t staying in the cabin, you can still take pictures of the iconic photo spot along the roadside. If you can plan around being here for sunset, you’ll be in for a real visual treat!
From here, you have come to the end of our self-guided Luberon Valley Lavender Route tour. As you bid farewell to the Luberon Valley, take a moment to reflect on the beauty and serenity you’ve encountered along the Lavender Route. The memories of lavender-scented breezes, breathtaking vistas, and the warmth of Provence will remain etched in your mind, forever transporting you back to this magical corner of the world.
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