Perched on the southern shores of Ireland lies the town of Kinsale, one of the most colourful, picture-perfect villages. It’s not just the vibrantly painted streets, charming cafes and shops, or the century-old landmarks hidden in nooks and crannies that make Kinsale special. It’s also the historical significance of this town, with its coastal walks offering jaw-dropping views of the North Atlantic. Whether you’re a history buff, a foodie, or someone who loves exploring one of the most beautifully painted cities in the world, Kinsale is the spot for you!
In this self-guided tour, we’ll take you through some of the town’s most fascinating historical sites, from medieval churches to seaside forts, and introduce you to local cafés and seafood spots that will have your taste buds dancing with excitement. You’ll wander down quaint streets filled with boutique shops, explore the rugged beauty of the coastline, and wrap up your day with a sunset that’ll make you never want to leave. So, lace up your walking shoes, grab your camera, and fall in love with Kinsale’s magic as we spend a full day, from morning to night, exploring everything this captivating town offers!
Most travellers docking in Kinsale will arrive in their rental car, and while the city is a popular tourist destination, there are limited parking spots throughout this little town. Arriving early in the morning is a great way to avoid driving around looking for spots and allows you the most time to explore the city. The Main Town Car Park is located on Pier Road. This centrally located, pay-and-display car park is convenient for exploring the town center. Another option is the St. Multose Car Park, which often has free parking, though limited spaces exist. Another larger lot is located on Pearse Street opposite the Kinsale Tourist Information Centre. Additionally, there are two-hour limited spots along Pearse Street in front of the shops, which can be an alternative option if you aren’t planning to stay longer than those two hours.
The best way to start your day is with a coffee (or tea) at Wild and Tame. I’ve said before that while travelling in Ireland, I often opted for tea over coffee, but I was seriously impressed with the brews at Wild and Tame. This charming little spot greets you with smiles the minute you walk in the door, and behind the counter, the delightful baristas carefully craft delicious brews. Here, you’ll find a selection of specialty coffees with locally roasted beans, offering a rich, flavorful experience. The cafe’s interior is bright and colourful, emblematic of Kinsale’s spirit.
Coffee or tea in hand, take a short walk outside along Market Street towards the minature model of the ancient town wall of Kinsale. Looking at this model, you can see the original walls that once surrounded Kinsale. King Richard II of England declared a wall be built around the town in 1381, ensuring its inhabitants would be safe from any incoming attackers. The Norman town had grown in prominence due to its strategic location on the River Bandon, large seaport, and fishing hubs.
In 1601, the Battle of Kinsale took place, a pivotal moment in Irish history. It occurred during the Nine Years’ War when Irish chieftains Hugh O’Neill and Red Hugh O’Donnell sought to end English rule in Ireland. They allied with Spanish forces, who landed in Kinsale to support their cause. The English, led by Lord Mountjoy, besieged the town, cutting off supplies. Despite a desperate attempt by the Irish to break the siege, they were defeated. This battle marked the decline of Gaelic Ireland and solidified English dominance over the island. The ongoing military tensions throughout the later 17th century resulted in the construction of Charles Fort and James Fort, built in Kinsale for defensive purposes. Their military history is still preserved today.
Continue along Market Street to Market Square and pause outside the Kinsale Museum, located inside a building dating back to the 1590s. The original building served as the town’s markethouse and is a prime example of 17th-century Irish architecture. The exterior retains traditional stone walls, a pitched slate roof with gabled boys, and red brick arcade arches.
Continuing along Market Place, you’ll reach the charming red awning outside the Cosy Café. In addition to the sweet decor and magnetic service, the food at Cosy Café is locally sourced, allowing you to indulge in all the flavours across Kinsale. The eggs are from Beechwood Farm, the veggies are from Horizon Farm, and the shellfish and smoked salmon are harvested from the Haven Shellfish fishery.
After breakfast, walk across the street to St. Multose Church, one of Kinsale’s oldest buildings. The medieval church was founded in 1190, but the location of the church is built atop the 6th century ecclesiastical settlement of St. Multose.
Inside the church, you can admire the blend of Norman and Gothic styles, including thick stone walls, carved timber ornamentation, and narrow arched windows that are iconic of Irish medieval architecture. The Norman style, characterized by its simplicity and strength, is evident in the thick walls and the overall structure of the church. The Gothic style, known for its pointed arches and elaborate ornamentation, can be seen in the carved timber decorations and the stained glass windows. The stained glass windows inside the church are beautiful nautical-themed artworks by Irish artist Catherine O’Brien.
Before heading inside the church, walk around the cemetery, as the graves and mausoleums date back to the 16th century. Among these buildings are several victims of the sinking of the RMS Lusitania. The RMS Lusitania, a British ocean liner, was sunk by a German U-boat on May 7, 1915, off the coast of Ireland near Kinsale. The ship was en route from New York to Liverpool when it was torpedoed, resulting in the loss of 1,198 lives. Many of the victims’ bodies were brought to the town, and a memorial sea garden was built inside the cemetery to commemorate the lives lost.
After spending some peaceful, reflective moments inside the church, head to Desmond Castle, a 5-minute walk from St. Multose Church along Cork Street. While walking up Cork Street, before reaching the castle, take a peek at the green-painted mailbox embedded in the stone wall. These mailboxes still bear the British royal insignia “ER” (Elizabeth Regina), dating back to the time before Irish independence. After gaining independence in 1922, the Irish government decided to keep the existing boxes but repainted them green to signify Irish sovereignty.
Desmond Castle was initially built as a customs house in the 1500s, but in the 17th century, it became a naval prison for French and Spanish prisoners. Sadly, in 1747, a fire broke out and killed 54 of the prisoners trapped inside, resulting in its status as one of the most haunted spots in Kinsale.
Walk along Chairman’s Lane, turning onto the narrow laneway called Newman’s Mall. This pedestrian street is home to the most colourful shops in the city and is one of the best places to get those iconic shots of Kinsale’s vibrant neighbours.
One of my favourite stores on Newman’s Mall is Bookstór. If you’re an avid reader of the blog, you’ll know my affinity for bookstores, and this one was the perfect example of those charming, cozy bookstores you’ll find in small towns that have a better-curated selection in such a small space than the big box stores could ever even dream of having! If you’re visiting small towns like these, I highly recommend supporting the small businesses there, and this spot is ideal to grab some fantastic books on Ireland to learn a little more about the country’s rich history.
If you want to stop and get a refreshing cold glass of Guinness before lunch, the Grey Hound Bar is one of the best bars in the city, if not the country. It is one of the oldest bars in Ireland, with its official license dating back to 1690, and the building it stands in is even older!
If it’s a cold day, step inside to snuggle up beside one of the cozy fires, or if the weather is sunny and warm, they almost always have tables outside on the cobblestones so you can enjoy the sights around you while enjoying a little moment of peace before continuing on your journey.
After finishing with a quick drink, head out towards Market Quay. Market Quay is narrow and a short little lane, but it perfectly reflects the town’s vibrant atmosphere even in such a small space. It’s lined with colourful buildings housing a mix of shops, cafés, and restaurants right down towards the water, offering lovely views of the harbour.
One of the most fantastic stores in Kinsale is Hattitude, a charming boutique specializing in those iconic handmade hats, fascinators and headpieces you might have seen on guests at Royal weddings or elegant polo matches. Even if you might never imagine yourself in one of these whimsical caps, exploring the creativity and artisanal craftsmanship on display here is what a visit here is all about!
Across the street is Seeds Bakery, an artistic bake shop that specializes in sustainable ingredients and traditional techniques. Their pastries are divine, so if you want to grab a little snack later in the day to nosh on during our afternoon hike, this is a great spot to nab those fresh baked goods. But in addition to baked treats, there are many other locally made items like fresh wildflower summer blossom honey, natural Irish wine, hot chocolate mixes, mead and more!
Take the little alleyway shortcut halfway down Market Quay to hop over to Main Street. Main Street is another street in Kinsale where every shop front seems to be more colourful than the next. If you’re looking for any Irish souvenirs, this street has many charming shops where you can find unique and treasured pieces to remember your trip to Ireland.
Along Main Street is Kinsale’s iconic Stoney Steps. The steps were originally just a narrow set of stone stairs that connected various levels of the upper town to the lower Main Street, but recently, the steps have become home to some beautiful street art dedicated to pirate Anne Bonny. Anne Bonny was a legendary pirate from the early 18th century, believed to have been born in Kinsale, Ireland. Known for her fierce spirit, she joined pirate Calico Jack Rackham and sailed the Caribbean, often disguising herself as a man. Alongside another female pirate, Mary Read, they plundered ships until their capture in 1720. Her story has become a symbol of rebellion and adventure in maritime history.
If you want a laid-back, budget lunch, you should head into Flying Poet, my favourite cafe in Kinsale. This cozy coffee shop is just off the harbour and is an aviation-inspired café with an appropriately themed library offering top-flight coffees and toasties. The interior is the perfect spot to cozy up in one of their comfy sofas or velvet armchairs. Especially on a rainy day, their selection of hot toasted sandwiches is ideal for warming yourself up from the inside out!
If you’re looking for a more upscale lunch to indulge in some amazing local seafood, there is no better place than Fishy Fishy. Located near the harbour, Fishy Fishy offers a laid-back, welcoming atmosphere with menu items that feel like they jumped from the harbour right onto your plate. Some of the best menu items include their seafood soup, a creamy and rich dish filled with the day’s catch, and the pan-seared scallops, often praised for their tenderness and flavour. But if you really wanna splash out, the lobster and crab claws are also standout dishes!
We will start with a short, 5-minute walk to the Courthouse and Southwell Gift Almshouse to walk off that lunch. Peeking through the bright red gates, you can see inside the lush ground of this charming collection of old white houses. These homes were built in 1682 by Sir Robert Southwell, who served as the Secretary of Ireland. He had these eight homes constructed for elderly men and women in need. His initiative was motivated by his deep concern for the welfare of the poor. A family was also housed there to provide care for the residents. These almshouses, known for their historical and architectural significance, underwent restoration in 1970, preserving their legacy and continuing to serve as a reminder of Southwell’s charitable efforts.
From the Almshouses, head back down to the harbour to take a coastal walk back through the main harbour of Kinsale, across to Charles Fort along the scenic Scilly Walk. The Scilly Walk is a picturesque coastal trail that takes you along a charming and peaceful path that winds along the water’s edge, offering stunning views of Kinsale Bay and Kinsale’s iconic colourful homes. As you meander along the route, you can admire the incredible lush plants and flowers nestled beneath towers and trees hanging over the pathways, protecting you from any light rain that is a familiar face in Ireland.
Walking, you’ll pass through the charming “millionaire’s row” on High Road. These houses sit perched on the side of the rugged cliffs, offering the best viewing points along the route. The walk takes around 30–40 minutes, leading you right to the entrance of Charles Fort. If you prefer, you can also drive rather than walk and park outside Fort Charles.
As you make your way up from Scilly Walk, you emerge at the top of the hillside, where you’ll see Fort Charles standing on the edge of the cliffs. Fort Charles is a star-shaped fortress built between 1677 and 1682, which offers a fascinating glimpse into Ireland’s military history. When it was built, it was the country’s largest military installation used to defend this strategic port town from naval attacks. Its construction was part of a broader effort to strengthen coastal defences in Ireland, particularly in the wake of the English Civil War and increasing military threats from European powers, including the French and Spanish. Positioned at the entrance of Kinsale Harbor, the fort’s star-shaped design allowed for better defence against cannon fire, making it a crucial stronghold in protecting the town and its maritime trade routes.
As you wander through the fort’s vast grounds, you’ll explore well-preserved bastions, barracks, and a commanding view of the harbour. Entry into Fort Charles is €5.00 for adults. However, you can also park outside the fort in the parking lot and admire the exterior and surrounding landscapes for free. In fact, the hillside just outside the fort is one of my favourite places in Kinsale, where you can admire the incredible green terrain all around you.
The perfect way to finish your day in Kinsale is with a fancy seafood dinner at The Bulman in the picturesque Summercove area just a few blocks down from Fort Charles. The views here are spectacular, and the seafood is among the best in town! Combining traditional Irish charm with fresh, locally sourced seafood, this spot is perfect for a relaxed yet upscale dining experience.
The menu highlights include seafood specialties such as fresh mussels, lobster, and crab claws, paired with hearty Irish classics. I had one of the best dishes of the trip here: their fresh grilled scallops served with blood pudding sausage. A combination that was so hearty and warm and a fantastic take on traditional Irish ingredients.
After dinner, there is no better way to walk off that dinner than a sunset stroll along the harbour. Summercove sits just outside Bulman Bar and has one of the most fantastic views of Kinsale, with the lights of the town reflecting back on the water, which creates a magical atmosphere. If you took theScilly Walk, you’d take the same path back to Kinsale, where you left your car, taking in the twinkling lights of the stars up in the sky as you make your way back to town. The perfect way to end a day of Irish exploration.
I hope you enjoyed this walking tour as we explored this vibrant town’s rich history, breathtaking coastal views, and irresistible charm. From strolling the colourful streets to indulging in the freshest seafood and soaking in the centuries of stories held within its ancient walls, Kinsale truly is a place where past and present meet in the most beautiful way.
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