As the first snow falls on the cobblestone streets of Old Montreal, the city goes about fitting the avenues, alleyways, and every other corner with Christmas lights to dazzle and delight during the holiday season. Old Montreal is one of the most picturesque places in the entire city made even more fantastical during the holidays. I spent hours just walking around every night, gleefully awaiting the setting of the sun. The minute the sky gets dim the light burst worth and transform the already charming streets into a winter wonderland.
Although you can simply wander the city to discover your own favourite displays, I’ve put together a little walking tour of all the best places to check out in Old Montreal. This self-guided walking tour will take you past some of the most important historical buildings in Old Montreal. So we’ve added in some interesting information about this bygone part of the city. Come with us now on our Christmas Lights Trail of Old Montreal!
At the corner of Victoria Square is where McGill Streets begins and heads down into the Old Town of Montreal. McGill Street is famously known as “the link between the strategic sectors of the Old Port, Old Montreal, and the Quartier international.” It is one of the most historical and, therefore, illustrious streets in Montreal. You can find such important buildings as the Canadian National Railway Company, Canadian Coast Guard, Canada Border Services Agency and a slew of popular restaurants all along this stretch of road.
During the winter season, the streets and individual buildings are all lit up for the holidays. The street is lined with these fantastic illuminated trees with a giant ball of lights bursting from the top! Enormous wreaths hang inside windows. And you can almost always see some of the most fanciful garlands made from real fir trees suspended from the doorways. The intoxicating smell drifts into your nose as you explore.
Continue along McGill Street until you reach Saint-Paul Street West. Turn left along the street until you read the famous Maison Pepin. During the wintertime, the alleyway entrance into Maison Pepin’s is transformed into their “Marché de Noël.” The old brick alley looks like something out of Harry Potter! As if you stepped into Diagon Alley when it’s all decorated for Christmas. Wreaths and Christmas tree hangs along the walls and when freshly fallen snow graces you with its presence the entire place is like a painting. Every year the team that decorated the alley brings a new element of wonder and this year their use of dried flowers is absolutely enchanting. And the entire scene is lit with a series of lights above casting down an ethereal glow on the alley.
Continue shortly down Saint-Paul Street West and take a short detour towards Rue Saint Pierre to the corner of Place d’Youville. Hidden away, inside the Parlement Bar is an absolute Christmas Wonderland. Miracle Bar is like Christmas turned up to eleven. From the floor to the ceiling, Christmas wrapping paper covers the entirety of the space. Lights twinkle from every corner, hundreds of stockings hang from the top, and of course, Christmas music blares throughout the bar. It has the warmest, most friendly atmosphere, like walking into a warm hug. When I was in town, I was alone for a portion of the trip, and I didn’t feel alone in here for a second. Everyone was in the spirit of Christmas and happy to make new friends.
There are a myriad of Christmas-themed drinks on offer, as well as beer, cider and yes, even non-alcoholic drinks as well! They all come in a delightful array of Christmas drinkware, and if you love what you’re served in, you can even buy a mug or cup to bring home!
Continue along old Place d’Youville to Place Royal. Place Royale has always been an important meeting place for the people of Montreal. In the early 19th century, this was where you could have found the old marketplace. Today, the square is dominated by the Old Customs House. This is an archaeological site, which is a part of the Pointe-à-Callière museum. At Christmas time, the square is filled with a series of real Christmas trees. A large illuminated tree is positioned in the centre, with a life-sized sleigh nearby for fantastic photo ops!
Walking up Place Royal Street towards Saint Paul street, you can continue along this long road. Saint-Laurent Boulevard divides the street where Saint Paul Street becomes Rue Saint Paul. This is because Saint-Laurent Boulevard was once the dividing line between the English part of town and the French quarter. Saint-Paul is Montreal’s oldest street and for many years served as its main thoroughfare. It was established in 1672 and named after Paul de Chomedey de Maisonneuve, founder of Montreal. His residence was located on this street and built-in 1650. Rue Saint-Paul follows the path of the old fort which once bordered the area.
During Christmas, Saint-Paul street is perhaps the most enchanting. Massive Christmas light installations are put up on either side of the street. Creating almost a halo of light above the road. The stores on either side of the street are filled to bursting with Christmas spirit. It seems like every boutique has its own unique approach to Christmas decor and peeking your head inside is a wonderful way to warm up.
As we continue towards Place Jacques-Cartier, make a quick detour up Rue Saint Vincent. The street was originally built on the land owned by Jean-Vincent Philippe de Hautmesnil. Jean-Vincent was a businessman and wealthy fur trader. His uncle, the Sulpician Gabriel Souart, was the first parish priest of Montreal. The street gets its name from the patron saint of Jean-Vincent Philippe de Hautmesnil.
Just a few feet along Rue Saint Vincent is the incredible alleyway Rue Saint Anne. This hidden passageway is framed by a series of old wooden branches in platers covered in twinkle lights. And as you enter the alley, you pass under a monumental archway also wrapped in lights. Creating this tunnel all aglow!
At the end of the Rue Saint-Vincent, you’ll pop out right in the middle of Place Jacques-Cartier. The square was originally built in 1723 as the royal gardens belonging to the Château Vaudreuil. The Château Vaudreuil was made for Philippe de Rigaud, Marquis de Vaudreuil but was burned down in 1803. After the destruction, the city transformed the space into a public square, known then as New Market Place.
In 1809, a large column was installed and named ‘Nelson’s Column.’ But in 1847, it was renamed in honour of Jacques Cartier, the explorer who claimed Canada for France in 1535. Today it stands as the oldest public monument in Montreal. During the Christmas season, the street is lined with lighted trees. At the top of the square is a huge light art installation. Made in the shape of large bare trees with branches resembling reindeer antlers.
Head back down to the Rue Saint Paul-East and continue walking until you reach the Bonsecours Market. Bonsecours Market is a two-story domed public market first built in 1844. And for more than 100 years, it was the main public market in Montreal. Today, it’s home to boutique shops popular with tourists. During the Christmas season, the building’s large Doric columns are covered in Christmas lights. Highlighting the beautiful architecture of the old building.
Take a short walk towards the water, out to Rue de la Commune. Rue de la Commune follows the original shore of the Saint Lawrence River. The buildings along the north side of the road are former commercial buildings.
From this point, you have a beautiful view along the tree line Rue de la Commune and the accompanying Christmas lights. You can also see the beautiful Old Port to the north and towering La Grande Roue de Montréal Ferris Wheel, which lights up the sky.
After getting a good look at the Port, head back up towards Rue Notre Dame Est. Make a stop at the top of the street, where you have an incredible view of Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours Chapel. The Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours Chapel is one of the oldest churches in Montreal. Built in 1771 over the ruins of an earlier chapel. The church is always decorated and lit up for Christmas. With the Ferris wheel spinning overhead, this spot makes for the perfect photo opportunity.
Looping back towards where we started, walk along Rue Notre Dame Est to Vauquelin Place beside the old Montreal City Hall. The small square is home to the old Montreal Great Christmas tree! It is one of the most instagrammable spots in the city during the Christmas season. The square is named after captain Vauquelin who was a distinguished French naval office. A statue of the captain still dominates the square behind the fountain where the Christmas tree is located.
Further down the street, you’ll come up the Montreal Courthouse. The brutalist style of architecture really stands out among the old town neo-gothic buildings. In front of the courthouse every year, they put up a large white illuminated Christmas tree. While it is just one lone Christmas tree, the way the light reflects off the glass windows of the building is really spectacular.
At the intersection of Rue Notre Dame-West and St. Sulpice Street, we find the Places d’Armes. Place d’Armes is a large public square centred around some of the most famous buildings in the city. This includes the great Notre-Dame Basilica, Saint-Sulpice Seminary, New York Life Building, Aldred Building and Bank of Montreal head office.
Originally the public square was called ‘Place de la Fabrique‘ when it was first developed in 1693, at the request of the Sulpicians. It was later renamed Place d’Armes in 1721 when it became the stage for various military events. From 1781 to 1813, it was used as a hay and wood market. Eventually, in 1836 it was redeveloped as a Victorian garden. For more than a hundred years, the square fell out of favour and eventually fell into disrepair. It wasn’t until 2009 that the city decided to renovate it at a whopping cost of $15.5 million!
During the holiday season, the square is one of the most popular places to come to see the Christmas lights. Massive illuminated stars are set up all around the square. They look like shooting stars that have fallen to earth. As you stand there the stars change colour and transform the look of the square. Just across from the square, the Banque Nationale also features a large window display on their first floor. The trio of Christmas trees and blue twinkling lights delight all the visitors passing by.
Continuing along Rue Notre Dame-West, you’ll see some different lighting designs dedicated to this area of town. Along this street, the lampposts are hung with sprays of illuminated tree branches and large brightly glowing snowflakes twinkle and shine.
At the intersection of Rue Notre Dame-West and Rue Saint-Jean is a small parkette named Parc Saint-Jean. This park is decorated with the most delightful Christmas lights. It features a large illuminated arch that makes for one of the best Instagram spots in the town. And best of all, this park is pretty hidden away and usually a little very peaceful. The rest of the park is dotted with giant twinkling snowflakes, randomly dispersed all over the grounds.
This brings us to the end of our tour of Montreal Old Town’s Christmas Lights. If you are interested in continuing your tour of Montreal Christmas Lights, head on over to our blog post on Downtown Montreal’s Best Christmas Lights! Let me know in the comments where your favourite displays are in Montreal or what you’re most looking forward to seeing.
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