Visiting Paris in December, I was there simply there to take in all the magical Christmas lights and festive atmosphere. My itinerary had no museum bookings or fancy restaurant reservations. My only “plan” was to wander and fill my eyes with beautiful sights and listen to the sounds of the city. One of my favourite neighbourhoods in Paris is the bohemian streets of Montmartre. No real shocker there; this area is so famous for a good reason. It feels like the perfect distillation of the best of Paris. Charming cafes and chic Parisian architecture paint the scenery around you. And even in one of the most popular areas in town, like Montmartre, there are still plenty of quaint and quiet streets to explore. While on one of my wanders, I stopped at the Place du Tertre and did something that has been on my “bucket list” for so long. And that was to get my portrait painted in Paris! And this has since become my favourite souvenir not only from Paris, but perhaps all my world travels.
This had been a mission of mine for a while. But I’m usually too busy to sit or haven’t found the right artist. Lucky for me, on this last trip, I completely fell in love with a watercolour painter. He totally charmed me into finally checking this experience off my list. It was one of the best moments of my life, and I came away with a work of art I will treasure forever. I wanted to share all there is to know about getting your portrait painted in the Place du Tertre and taking home a one-of-a-kind souvenir from Paris.
The Place du Tertre is a delightful, historic square located in the heart of Montmartre. It is merely a few steps from the famous Basilica of the Sacré Cœur. To get to the Place du Tertre, take the metro to Abbesses station. From there, it is a gorgeous five-minute walk (uphill) toward the celebrated square.
The Place du Tertre has a rich and storied history that dates back to the Middle Ages. Originally, the area of Montmartre was a tiny village on the outskirts of Paris. The word ‘Montmartre’ means “mountain of the martyr.” Legend has it that the patron saint of Paris, Saint-Denis, was beheaded on the hill of Montmartre in the 3rd century AD.
In the 12th century, the Benedictine Montmartre Abbey was built here, and the Place du Tertre stood in the centre. After the dissolution of the monastery, the area was opened to the public in 1635. And this square served as the centre of village life in Montmartre.
During the 19th century, the Place du Tertre became a gathering place for artists. They were drawn to Montmartre’s free spirit and artistic atmosphere. Famous artists such as Picasso, Van Gogh, and Toulouse-Lautrec frequented the area. And many studios and workshops popped up in the narrow streets and alleys around the square.
In the early 20th century, the Place du Tertre became a tourist destination. Local artists began selling their paintings and creating portraits of tourists on the square. Today, the square is still a hub of artistic activity, with dozens of local artists selling their work and creating portraits for visitors.
After I got my portrait painted, one of the main questions I got was, “are the painters here really that good? Or is this another tourist trap?” Great question and one that I initially had myself. The reality is, you can’t be just anyone to be able to paint here. There are a limited number of painters allowed to set up their easels on the square. And each of them had to undergo a rigorous portfolio approval review process to become an “artist in residence.” The wait time for these residences can be up to ten years! News spots only open up if an artist dies or decides to give up his residence. So anyone you find here has really paid their dues.
This means that you might be able to find the same artists painting here year after year. Many people make it a tradition to get a new portrait painted here every five years, often by the same painter. Each artist is given one square meter to set up their outdoor studio. You can see the little markings on the cobblestones when it’s not filled with artists. Each artist is given a printed permit which proves they are approved to work here. Any painters set up here without permission could be fined so you know these artists are the real deal!
Painters start arriving here around 10 am throughout the week. I find Mondays the quietest. The French aren’t early risers, so don’t expect them to come out in droves until they’ve had their morning coffee. The painters generally stick around until the sun begins to set. But there is no firm set time for opening and closing.
In the winter, especially when it gets freezing, you’ll often find fewer painters coming out to brave the cold. But even at Christmas, I found the square was packed! Weekends are the most popular, so prepare for it to be hectic! But you’ll also find the most artists on the show on those days as well. No one will come out during the rain, so consider those days a write-off.
With so many artists in the square, choosing the right one for you might seem like a difficult task. It can be overwhelming to see so many artists working away and feel the need to pick just one. But the first thing you should do, before making any decisions, is to spend some relaxed time just looking at all the artists at work. Roam around, and look at the past example paintings done by these artists. As well as the ones they are in the midst of painting. This will ensure that their technique has stayed the same since those portfolio examples.
When I visited, there were a variety of different art styles that I could see across the square. There were hyperrealistic pencil drawings that were so detailed they looked almost more like a photo than a painting. Then there are the more classical caricatures that overemphasize people’s most eye-catching characteristics, but these are a bit “cartoony.” The charcoal drawings are so expressive and really convey the silhouette of a person’s face. But the watercolour paintings were my favourite. Although perhaps not as photorealistic as the pencil drawings, they felt so expressive and conveyed much emotion through the brushstrokes.
I spent about 15 minutes observing various artists and inquired about their pricing. Most were about €60, but nothing completely entranced me. That was until I saw, in the middle of the crowd, my very own Van Gogh, Majid Aghili. Majid had been painting here on the square for over 15 years. And he looked like he was plucked right out of a French film with his chic round black glasses, checkered scarf and flat cap. He was smoking a cigarette and had paint all up under his fingernails. A sign of a real artist.
We hit it off immediately as I told him how much my late mother loved watercolour painting, which drew me to him. He loved the bright colours I was wearing on such a dreary winter’s day. He stated his price, €80, and I immediately went to find the ATM. €80 was more than the average I had seen in the square, but his work was much more elevated than some of the cheaper options, and I loved his unique style. And style and experience will always add something to your bill.
The key to sitting for a portrait is choosing a comfortable position. Not just in how you’re seated but ensuring you select a relaxed facial expression. A big-toothy smile is pretty hard to keep up after 10 minutes. If you know your best side, let the artist know and sit in that orientation.
Another thing to remember when sitting for a portrait is that people will be looking at you the entire time. You are literally on display. This felt awkward at first, but if you just zone out and relax, you’ll come away with a much better portrait than if your face shows any of that uncomfortably. One of the hardest parts was seeing other people reacting to the paintings before being able to see it myself! But when he turned it around, it was such a wonderful surprise, and I was just in awe. Not only of his skills but how beautifully he captured my spirit and self.
I hadn’t planned on getting my portrait done, but in retrospect, I think I would have thought more in advance about what I wanted to wear if I was going to do it again. I was lucky I loved my outfit and wasn’t wearing too many patterns or accessories that would be harder to capture in the portrait. These portraits might be something you’ll want to have on display forever, so be sure to choose an outfit that will pass the test of time. A simple, more classic look is always a great choice so the outfit doesn’t detract from your face. This is less of an issue with black-and-white paintings, but you might want to keep your fashion style in mind.
I generally wear some pretty vibrant makeup colours, but a bare face would have been a better approach for this occasion. That way the artist can better capture your natural features, otherwise hidden behind the makeup.
Some artists have huge queues, so waiting in line for your turn might take an hour or so. This also might play into your decision of which artist to choose. Many artists might have a list and will tell you when to return instead of waiting in the square.
How long the actual process of painting your portrait will take depends on the complexity of the work. The quick, gestural charcol drawings can take as little as five minutes. While watercolour impressionist paintings take around 30 minutes. And some hyperrealistic colour pencil drawings, with multiple family members, would an hour or more! If time is a consideration, you can also ask yourself this question to your artist prior to agreeing upon getting the portrait made. But you definitely don’t want to rush your artist.
Every artist has a different set price. Some artists have their prices written on their display boards, but others will require asking to find out. With so much variety in style, the price varies to reflect the time and skills of the artists. The black and white caricature-like drawings were the cheapest. But the caricatures are often less realistic in representing the sitter. The paintings which are more representative are, of course, going to cost more. In general, I saw prices from €25 to €120. Be sure to set the price before you sit down and have the money on hand. If you adore your painting, you can also tip, but tipping in France is not the norm or expected.
All the artists I spoke with only accepted cash, so be aware of this if you plan to get your portrait painted. There is an ATM down the street if you need to take out some money. While mobile payments by card are getting more and more popular, many artists here are still very old-school.
Since most of these artists are used to working with tourists, many speak some English, but it’s not guaranteed. Learning French before your travels is a great idea, and I’ve included some key phrases to learn when speaking to the artists on the square.
Hello – Bonjoy!
Thank You – Merci
How much is one portrait? – Combien coûte un portrait?
How much for two people? – Combien pour deux personnes?
How long will it take? – Combien de temps ça va prendre?
Do you take credit card or cash? – Prends-tu une carte de crédit ou des espèces?
When should I come back? – Quand dois-je revenir?
This is beautiful – C’est beau
Various sellers are walking around the square peddling small cardboard tubes to safely store your rolled-up portrait. Some artists also offer these as part of their portrait package. When I asked how much they cost, the seller told me €10. I thought this was too much, so I walked away, not needing it that badly. And, of course, the seller chased me down, asking me for my best offer. After offering him €5, he too happily agreed. I think could have haggled him down further based on how fast he decided to take the fiver. But it was worth it to keep the work of art safe. I carried it around in my bag for months, and when I got home, it was in perfect condition.
If you need to wait your turn for your portrait, there are plenty of things to see and do in Montmartre to pass the time. While you might be tempted to sit at one of the cafes facing Place du Tertre, these places are insanely overpriced and the definition of a tourist trap. If you want to enjoy a coffee, there are lots of cute and affordable options on Rue des Trois Frères.
If you’re looking for something to eat, I’d recommend heading to Rue des Abbesses. This is one of the most picturesque streets in Montmartre but it still manages to avoid being filled with overpriced cafes.
If you’ve never been to the Basilica of the Sacré Cœur, it’s well worth checking out. Depending on what time you arrive, the line to get inside can be pretty long. But since entry is free, the line moves quickly. If you’re not looking to go inside the Basilica but just want a great photo, I’d recommend getting a shot from Rue du Chevalier-de-La-Barre. This street is located behind the church and is often almost empty compared to the jam-packed balcony outside the front entrance to the church.
Another great thing to do in the area is to visit the Montmartre Cemetery. The cemetery is about a 15-minute walk from the Place du Tertre. This picturesque burial ground is known for its tranquil atmosphere and scenic beauty. The cemetery is the final resting place of many notable figures, including artists, writers, musicians, and actors such as Edgar Degas, Hector Berlioz, François Truffaut, and Emile Zola.
One of the most iconic aspects of Montmartre are the various Moulins, or windmills, found throughout the neighbourhood. In the 19th century, Montmartre was originally a rural village on the outskirts of Paris. The windmills were used to grind wheat into flour and were vital to the local economy. At the peak of their use, there were as many as 30 windmills in Montmartre, but today only a few remain. Despite their diminished numbers, the windmills remain an iconic symbol of Montmartre and are a popular attraction for visitors.
The most famous of all these windmills is the iconic Moulin Rouge. Made famous for being the setting for the film of the same name starring Ewan McGregor and Nicole Kidman. The Moulin Rouge is a renowned cabaret and dance hall. It was opened in 1889 and quickly became a symbol of the Belle Époque era, with its stunning decor, lavish costumes, and talented performers. It was the birthplace of the can-can dance, which quickly becoming popular across Europe and beyond. The Moulin Rouge also attracted famous patrons such as Pablo Picasso, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, and Edith Piaf. The same painters that inspired many of the artists working in the Place du Tertre today!
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Getting your portrait painted on the Place du Tertre is a special memory for anyone visiting Paris. It’s a unique and unforgettable experience that captures the essence of the city’s vibrant artistic culture. Whether it’s your first or 10th time, getting your portrait painted on the Place du Tertre is an experience that should not be missed!
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