When I first came to Chapultepec Park, I am ashamed to say it was one of the most frustrating moments of my travels. And that‘s no one’s fault but my own. I made two critical mistakes; underestimating the park’s size and not heading directly to the main entry gates. We had timed tickets into Chapultepec Castle and were in a rush to make it up there in time. Thankfully, I managed to maneuver my way to the proper entrance thanks to my beloved mother who helped navigate our way through the winding back pathways.
Despite our rather stressful introduction to the park, in getting lost we uncovered so many different parts of the park I had never seen mentioned in other guides! I made it a point to return the next morning! I arrived early in the day, set out to explore every inch of Chapultepec Park. What I discovered was truly one of the most spectacular public parks I had ever seen. Not only is Chapultepec Park unsurpassed in terms of beauty, but it also has a long history that dates back to the 10th century. The park is heralded for its bio-diversity, lush gardens, and home to some of Mexico City’s most iconic landmarks. It is no surprise to learn it won the gold award from the World Urban Parks Association as one of the most beautiful parks in the world!
But it’s not just a tourist destination either; it’s also full of life. Locals come here to cool themselves under the forest canopy and snack on incredible street food. If you’re looking to escape city life and immerse yourself in nature, Chapultepec Park is the place to be!
Bosque Chapultapec or Chapultapec Park is enormous. It is twice the size of Central Park, which many people think of as one of the largest parks in the world! So having a guide to follow or knowing what you want to see when you’re there is key. Bosque Chapultapec or Chapultapec Park is actually divided into three sections or “Seccións.” This guide will explore the First section, which is both the oldest portion of the park and contains the most important landmarks.
The park is open from 5 a.m. to 7 p.m Tuesday – Sunday. The First Section of Chapultepec Park is closed on Mondays for maintenance.
To arrive at the proper (and most impressive) entrance to Chapultepec Park, direct your Uber to drop you off in front of the Estela de Luz monument. If you prefer to take the Metro you can take it to Chapultepec Station. From the station’s exit, head north up to Lion’s gate entrance.
Chapultepec Park is situated around Chapultepec Hill, the sacred heart of the city. The Toltecs named the hill “Chapultepec” around the 12 century. The word “Chapultepec” means at the grasshopper hill in the native Nahuatl language of the Toltecs. There is some disagreement among historians whether the name comes from the plethora of grasshoppers that lived in the area or if it was due to the shape of the hill looking like the silhouette of a grasshopper.
At the top of the hill, the Toltecs placed their sacred altar. We know this as there have been remains of this alter excavated at the hill’s summit. The hillside served as a defensive advantage, as it stood looking out of the shores of Lake Texcoco. Despite this advantage, it wouldn’t be along before the Toltecs were overcome.
When the Aztecs conquered the city, they continued to use the hill as a spiritual place. They saw it as a place of power, and it was here that they buried the ashes of their rulers. For this reason, when visiting the park and the palace, we should act very respectfully. Remember you are walking over what was an Aztec graveyard. The various rulers of Mexico City would carve their images onto the eastern side of Chapultepec hill. Thinking this would preserve their memories in stone forever.
The area around the Chapultepec hill was plentiful with freshwater. Monarch Nezahualcoyotl utilized this access to build the first aqueduct that helped direct this freshwater into the city. Nezahualcoyotl loved nature and felt at peace here. He was the first to build a summer palace in the area in 1428. Here he could escape the busy city. Like today, the rich and powerful love escaping countryside mansions.
By the 15th century, the forest was primarily used as a retreat for various Aztec rulers. We have Moctezuma II to thank for so many of the amazing aspects of this park that still exist today. The plentiful trees, plants and waterways around the park were all installed under his watchful eye. Many of the original cypress trees can still be seen today. These are also called “ahuehuete” trees and they mark the ancient outlines of the park. Moctezuma was also the first to build a zoo and arboretum just near the foot of the hill.
One of the most unique aspects of the park you can still visit today is Moctezuma’s Baths. The waters from the aqueducts were channelled into these reservoirs where locals could bathe. Aztecs were a very clean society, with most people bathing at least once a day! There were also several “temazcales” on-site. There were pre-Hispanic saunas and used for ritual cleansing.
Sadly this period of peace for the Aztecs couldn’t last forever. Here in the forest, the Aztec’s took their last stand against the Spanish in 1521. It was the last stand the Aztec had to save themselves from the eventual conquest. After the land was stolen by the Spanish, Chapultepec Hill and the land around it was given by Cortez over to the Franciscans. The religious order built a temple on the hill. Their attempt to convert the locals over to Christianity by appropriating the Aztec holy site. During this time, the rocks where the Aztec rulers carved their image were destroyed by the Franscian’s. But one stone managed to survive. It depicts Montezuma II’s feathered headdress carrying an omechicahuaztli (a sceptre for rain rituals) in his hand.
Chapultepec remained in the hands of the Franciscans for another few hundred years. But in 1785, the church was demolished to make room for a residence for the colonial rulers. This would become Chapultepec Castle. The forest around the castle was to be used as a hunting ground and place for recreation for the upper classes. It was abruptly walled off from the general public. This was such a loss for the people as the sanctuary has been such a meaningful place for hundreds of years.
Even after the Mexican War of Independence, the castle was used as the official residence for the head of state. But happily, the park was opened to the public once more. During the Mexican-American War of 1846, Chapultepec Castle was used as a military academy. It was also used as a political prison. In 1847 it would be the site of another great battle between the Mexican and U.S. troops. During the Second Mexican Empire, the palace transferred hands once. It was given over to the new governor of the city, Maximilian of Habsburg. He transformed it into a truly impressive imperial palace.
Under the rule of the Porfiriato government, the city began to undergo a huge transformation. Porfirio Díaz was obsessed with the idea of turning Mexico City into a European paradise. One of the aspects of his plan involved overhauling the landscape design of the city. He employed José Yves Limantour, Secretary of the Treasury, to revamp the forests around Chapultepec Castle. They installed paved avenues and roads, plazas, fountains, auditoriums and monuments. It was also during this time that large artificial lakes were built.
The castle remained in the hands of the government, serving as the presidential residence until 1940. Los Pinos was built at the southwest edge of the park. This new “White House-inspired” neo-classical structure would serve as the new presidential residence and office. Chapultepec Castle was converted into a museum housing relics of the Maximilian era. As well as pieces of history from Mexico’s struggle for independence.
In the 1960s, the park saw its most tremendous modern expansion and construction. The park’s second section was created, and the Pantheon of Dolores was built. The large cemetery a final resting place for the illustrious dead of Mexico’s past. Various modern museums were commissioned. These institutions were a place to show to the locals and the world the cultural heritage of Mexico City. This included the National Museum of Anthropology, the National Gallery of History, the Caracol Museum, and the National Auditorium. There are nine different museums in total located inside the walls of Chapultepec Park.
The third and final section of the park was created in 1974. The area is primarily a dense forest, that has been declared a Protected Natural Area. In order to combat the growing levels of air pollution, the government developed these protected zones to plant new trees which filter the air. Today, Chapultapec is known as one of the sets of “lungs” which help Mexico City breathe by replenishing oxygen to the city. This part of the park is also a refuge for migratory birds. During the winter, hidden in the trees are birds from Canada the U.S., feeling the cold. But there is also plenty of local wildlife like Mexico’s Cooper hawk, Harris’s hawk, wild ducks, and Vireos, Warblers and Kingfishers.
The intricately patterned black iron gates welcome you into Chapultepec Park. But guarding the entrance on either side are these two gigantic lions. This is the great Puerta de Leones or Lion’s Gate of Chapultepec Park. The colossal bronze beasts stand atop granite pedestals, their heads pointing out towards the Paseo de la Reforma. Their eyes keenly open, as if on the lookout for any incoming enemies.
The sculptures were created by French artist Garden and installed here in 1921. They have been greeting friendly visitors ever since. During the big Mexican holidays like Día de Muertos, this gate is often cheerfully decorated with beautiful paper flowers.
Walking through the gates, continue down Avenue Juventud Heroica. The Avenue crosses over the busy Centro Bicentenario highway that you can hear roaring underfoot. At the end of the overpass, you can see the towering columns of the Monument to the Ninos Heroes. As mentioned earlier, Chapultapec Park was the site of the great Mexican American battle of 1847. After being overtaken by the U.S. Army, various cadets who had been defending the palace fled to the inner walls of the castle. Cornered with nowhere to go, six Mexican cadets jumped onto the cliff below. They would rather have died by their own will than be captured or killed by the enemy. Today each one of these six men are honoured within this incredible monument.
The enormous structure was designed by architect Enrique Aragón and sculptor Ernesto Tamariz. Each of the towering six columns features a niche at the base of the pillar. Inside is an urn that contains their ashes. The white columns are capped with the image of the Mexican golden eagle, whose wings reach towards the sky. While the cadets the eagle depicts their divine flight into heaven.
In the centre of the six columns is a large sculpture called the “Altar a la Patria” or Altar to the Homeland. The sculpture depicts a Mexican woman holding the lifeless body of a soldier in one arm. Beside her other arm stands a soldier. He stands tall, seemingly guarding her and the homeland. In honour of those who died guarding her before him.
You’ll find a series of pathways that swirl around the park just beyond the main entrance. Make your way to the enclosure that surrounds the base of the hill. Beyond the fence is a seemingly innocuous rock. This is the Petrogrifo de Moctezuma. These petroglyphs set into the hill’s eastern slope have a series of carvings that you can make out as you look closer. These are the last remaining carvings from the pre-Hispanic rulers. In the top right, you can see the xiuhhuitzolli of Moctezuma II. The xiuhhuitzolli is the turquoise headdress worn by Aztec Mexican royals. The headdress is usually covered in bright blueish-green feathers to symbolize the god Huitzilopochtli. Huitzilopochtli was the god of the sun and the god war. His named means “hummingbird,” which is why the colourful feathers are used in his image.
Continuing around the edge of the hillside, walk along the pathways surrounding the hill. Around the corner is a giant stone memorial, but blocking your initial view of the memorial is a hulking tree trunk. Do not just walk by but take a moment to study the dried-out piece of wood. This is one of the famed Ahuehuete (cypress) trees found inside the park. But this one is extra special. It is called “El Sargento,” as it was planted by Nezahualcoyotl in 1460 on the orders of emperor Moctezuma.
The tree managed to survive for over 500 years, growing up to 40 meters in height. But sadly, it died in 1969. Although these trees are able to live for generations the lack of freshwater, as the ground dried up due to pollution, brought an end to this great tree. A devastating blow to the people of Mexico City. The city created a monument out of the trunk, to preserve what remained for generations to come. It is still a very sacred space for visitors today. And also a warning about pollution and the destruction it can bring.
The enormous stone memorial behind the tree is dedicated to the Mexican 201st Fighter Squadron. This aerial army was initially formed when Mexico came to the aid of the Allies during World War II. During their initial training in Texas, they were nicknamed the “Aztec Eagles,” a name they wore with pride. Despite the historical conflict between Mexico and the USA, they managed to come together in this monumental moment in time. Together, they were able to defeat Japanese troops invading the Philippines. Their Squadron was given credit for keeping 30,000 Japanese troops out of action and destroying enemy-held buildings, vehicles, anti-aircraft guns, and the all-important ammunition depots. The memorial was built to remember the fallen soldiers of the wars as well as the survivors of the military expedition to the Philippines.
To the left of the memorial is a little path that wraps around the back. Behind here is where you’ll find a little hidden zen garden called the Audiorama. But historically, this area has been one of the most sacred spaces in Mexico City for generations. During the pre-Hispanic period, this place was the entrance to the Cincalco Cavern. The Aztecs believed that these caves were portals between the living and the dead. It was here, many believed, that Tláloc, the god of water, lived.
In 1162, Huémac, the last Toltec governor, committed suicide after his people were defeated and his city fell. He felt he had failed them and it was here he wished to pass on, submit himself to the will of the gods. Perhaps with his sacrifice, his people would be spared. In modern times, the cave has been sealed off for security reasons. But you can still see the arched entrance that once led inside the hill. The garden is surrounded by an array of wild plants, fruit trees, small rose bushes, and calla lilies.
In the 1970s, the city decided to revamp the space as a modernized “sacred space” for the residents. It was designed as an outdoor library to read. A series of colourful benches spread out throughout the enclosure provided comfort under the trees. But to enhance the experience, music is pipped into the forest throughout the day through a series of little hidden speakers.
There are different types of music played on different days of the week. On Tuesdays, you get new age, traditional Mexican rhythms on Wednesdays, melodies from Spain, Greece or Brazil on Thursdays, jazz on Fridays, chill out for Saturdays and classical music on Sundays. The Audiorama is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 am to 4 pm. Please respect the silence requested upon entering this part of the park as this is a place for rest and relaxation.
Head back the way you came and make your way to the ramp leading to Chapultapec Castle.
You need to buy your admission tickets at the booth at the bottom of the hill. Be sure to do this BEFORE you head up the ramp, which leads to the castle. There is nowhere at the top of the hill to buy tickets. The walk is fairly long and steep, and on a hot day, it would be torturous to have to head all the way back down. We saw dozens of people that had this problem and their dejected faces were so sad. So be sure you don’t make this same mistake. The line for the tickets moves very quickly but if you plan on visiting at the absolute peak of the season you should arrive early to beat the crowds.
Hours: 9 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Sunday. Closed on Mondays.
Admission: 85 pesos (US$4) per person. Tickets are free for children under 13 and seniors over 60 years old. Teachers and students with valid credentials and people with disabilities also can get in free.
Be sure to bring some cash as often the machines are often down and tickets are cash only.
After purchasing your ticket, you need to climb the winding hill that encircles the palace. While the pathway is mostly smooth, for anyone with mobility issues, the incline can be tiring. The walk is especially difficult due to the high elevation in Mexico City. It can be slightly harder to catch your breath. Take it slow; there’s no need to rush. In fact, the walk up the hill provides some incredible views across the park and the city. Make sure you drink plenty of water. Even on what might feel like a cooler day, you still can get dehydrated just from the elevation.
Near the top of the ramp, before arriving at the Castle, you’ll approach the Museo del Caracol. A ‘Caracol’ is a snail, as the museum’s exterior is designed to replicate the shape of a sea snail. Inside, to view the exhibitions within, you descend down a spiral staircase, also mirroring the swirl of a snail’s shell. The windows that line the edge of the staircase are filled with dioramas. Each one tells a story relating to the history of Mexico City. From the end of the viceroyalty to the Constitution of 1917.
As the admission is only 80 pesos (US$4), I think it’s well worth a quick look through. There is something about dioramas that really helps bring the country’s history alive. Even if you can’t understand the narration, the scenes are so expressive that you can really get a sense of what’s happening. I think some people might think the museum is a bit cheap and cheesy but I really enjoy all those dollhouse-like detailed scenes.
Hours: 9 am to 4 pm Tuesday to Sunday
Admission: $80 pesos per person. Tickets are free for children under 13 and seniors over 60 years old. Teachers and students with valid credentials and people with disabilities also can get in free.
The castle itself is divided into two sections; the Museum of Anthropology on the left side and the Palace (or Alcazar) interiors on the right. The Museum of Anthropology is housed inside the former Military College. The collection is a wonderful way to physically see the history of Mexico City, from the time of the conquest until the 20th century, come alive in front of you. Clothing, paintings, objects and elements of everyday life are all on display. My favourite part of this section of the castle has to be their collection of murals. The expressive Mexican murals bring historical events into three dimensions despite being painted on a two-dimensional surface.
The Alcázar portion of the building is where you’ll find various rooms inside the palace still decored as they could have been in the 19th century. During this period the castle was occupied by emperors Maximiliano and Carlota and thereafter President Porfirio Díaz and his wife Carmen Romero Rubio. It is incredible to see how the spaces change as the hands of ownership change. For a complete guide of the Castle Museum check out our full tour here.
After finishing up at the castle, walk back the hill towards Avenue H. Colegio Militar. This road will weave its way through the forest towards the best lookout point across Chapultepec Lake. This avenue is absolutely packed with street vendors! Although there is a larger “food court” beside the lake, I would avoid this area. Perhaps since they have more permanent booths, the food can be left inside and therefore isn’t of the highest quality. But the food vendors that flank the roadways are really delicious. So stick with them! These might not be as filling as the meals on offer in the food court area, but you’re better off with a safe bet.
Below are a few of my favourite street snacks so you can keep your eyes out for these reliably delicious traditional treats.
After all those snacks, a great way to burn off some calories is with a pedal around El Lago de Chapultepec. This man-made lake is one of the most picturesque places to take a little blue paddle boat and take in the scenery. The views from the middle of the lake are fantastic and even look out at the Colonia Polanco. The boats cost 60 pesos/hour (around the U.S. $3). Normally, such a touristy activity would price gouge visitors but not here in the park. The locals enjoy a ride as much as the tourists, so prices are kept low to ensure everyone can enjoy a day out!
While paddling on the Lake, you have a fantastic view of the Casa del Lago, the Chapultapec Lake House. The house was built in the 1900s as President Porfirio Diaz‘s summer mansion. Today it serves as the UNAM (Mexico’s National Autonomous University) Chapultapec cultural center.
If you don’t feel like grabbing a bite to eat from the street vendors, you can head up to the Librería Porrúa. This charming bookstore library is located just on the edge of Chapultepec Park. In addition to a wonderful selection of books, there is a coffee shop inside. You’ll find here a super delicious selection of coffee, snacks, paninis, and more. Plus if it’s a really hot day, its a lovely spot to come and cool off.
From here, lets pop into the Jardín Botánico del Bosque de Chapultepec. While the roped off garden beds and greenhouse might feel modern, these nurseys have been here since the days of Moctezuma. When the Spanish first arrived in Mexico they were amazed by these royal gardens they saw. So much so that they would write home about the incredible plants they found.
The Aztecs had some of the most diverse and exotic gardens. They were filled with medicinal plants for healing wounds. Herbs for cooking as well as fragrant flowers just there for their beauty.
The Botanical gardens we find here today were inaugurated in 2006 over a 5-hectare protected area. Covering the land area are over 400 different plants and trees. The garden is divided into different themes based on the different kind of plants. There are the pollinators, the edible plants, the succulents and the wetland plants. Plus 14 different species of wild dahlias, cacti and agave.
Towards the back of the Botanical Garden you’ll find the glimmering stained glass rooftop that leads you inside the Orquideario Bosque de Chapultepec. This 500-square-meter greenhouse was built in the 1940s and contains stunning examples of Mexican art deco design. The huge barrel domed ceiling runs the entire length of the greenhouse.
The vibrant Aztec inspired stained glass design casting beautiful rainbows of light down on the flower and ferms below. Inside the humid glasshouse, you can find their precious collection of orchid. s is maintained.
Botanical Garden Open: 9 am to 6 pm Tuesday to Sunday | Orchid Garden Open: 9 am to 3 pm
For the rest of the afternoon, there are a few different museums that you can explore. If you’ve never been to Mexico, let alone Mexico City before, the Museo Nacional de Antropología is a wonderful place to learn more about the country’s history. The museum contains significant archaeological and anthropological artifacts from Mexico’s pre-Columbian heritage. It is considered a national treasure and a symbol of Mexico’s identity.
One of the most significant pieces of the collection is the Stone of the Sun or the Aztec calendar stone. This sizeable circular stone carving weighs 24,590 kg and is over 141 inches wide! It dates back to approximate the beginning of the 16th century. The Stone of the Sun was so precious to the people of Tenochtitlan that after the Spanish invaded, they buried the stone under the Zocalo. In the hopes that hiding it there would keep it safe.
The Stone was only discovered in 1790 when repairs were required under the new Mexico City Cathedral. After the discovery, the church actually mounted the stone on the building’s exterior. There it remained for almost a hundred years. Perhaps as a way to convince unconverted Mexicans over to the Christianity. Finally, in 1885, it was moved to the new Archaeological Museum inside the El Chopo Musuem in Colonia Santa María la Ribera. It remained there until the opening of this museum.
If you only see the design of the building from the front facade you might think the building is rather simple and austere. The white bricked facade is devoid of any decoration save for the central medallion featuring a stone carving of the eagle of Mexico City with a serpent in its mouth. But to see the real architectural treasure you need to head inside towards the back courtyard. The building was designed in 1964 by Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, Jorge Campuzano, and Rafael Mijares Alcérreca. The courtyard features a huge concrete umbrella supported by a single slender pillar (known as “el paraguas,” Spanish for “the umbrella”). Water pours down from the umbrella into the vast square pond below. It’s one of the most impressive structures I’ve ever seen and the sound of the rain falling is hypnostizing.
Open: 10 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Saturday, Closed Mondays
Admission: Permanent exhibition $85 pesos (US $4)
To use a video camera, you must get a permit and pay a fee of $45 pesos.
Right beside the Botanical Gardens is the Museo de Arte Moderno. The Museum of Modern art contains the largest collections of Mexican art from the 20th century. The museum was built in 1963 under the guise of architect and designer Pedro Ramírez Vázquez and Rafael Mijares. Even without all the artwork, this museum is a wonder to explore.
It’s collection features work from José Chávez Morado, David Alfaro Siqueiros, José Clemente Orozco and Remedios Varo. But most famously, it owns a few precious paintings by Frida Kahlo. Frida Kahlo produced a relatively small oeuvre, and getting to see one of her paintings in real life is an exceptional experience. Her surrealist self-portrait ‘Las dos Fridas‘ is one of her most impactful pieces. This piece was painted shortly after her divorce from fellow Mexican artist Diego Rivera. It was a means for her to process the depression and loneliness she experience after the divorce.
Open: 11 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Saturday, Closed Mondays
Admission: $65 pesos (US $3)
If you’re travelling with children, instead of a museum, a visit to the Zoológico de Chapultepec is a great alternative. While adults might give it a miss (as there aren’t really any uniquely “Mexico-City” aspects to the zoo) it’s always a hit with kids. Plus, admission is free for everyone! This is a huge bonus since activities with kids can get really expensive. The only part of the zoo that requires an entry fee is the butterfly house (US$3.50). There are many classic zoo animals to see here. Everything from lions, rhinos, monkeys, tigers, and, most famously, their great Chinese Panda .
But if you’re going to visit, my best advice is to be sure to see the Xoloitzcuintle. The Xoloitzcuintle is a hairless dog native to Mexico. The name ‘Xoloitzcuintle‘ is from the Nahuatl languagee and is derived from the word ‘Xolotl’ who was the god of fire and lightning. ‘Itzcuīntli‘ was the Nahuatl word for “dog,” for it basically translates to “God’s dog.”
Open: 9 am to 4:30 pm Tuesday to Sunday
Admission is free
If museums aren’t your thing, a wonderful way to explore the rest of the park is by bike. The park’s winding back routes and pathways are sprawling! To see it all, the best way is to hop on a bike. You can pick up a rental bike from the central Casa de la Bici in the southwest corner of the park. This place rents out bikes for 70 pesos per hour (the U.S. $3.30) or 100 pesos (the U.S. $4.80) for two hours. You are required to leave a valid photo I.D. with them to ensure you return with the bike. Don’t leave anything important like your passport, but a driver’s licence or even a health card will be OK. Most of the bikes have adorable white baskets on the front. Perfect for storing your treats or backpacks so you can bike around unimpeded.
Whether you’re cruising around on the bike or just walking on foot, here are a few other stops you might want to make around the park. Just north of the bike rental house is the Fuente del Quijote. A ‘Fuente‘ is the Spanish word for fountain. The ‘Fountain of Don Quixote‘ dates back to 1921 and it is one of the most incredible fountains in the entire park. The rather small central fountain with four central mermaids is surrounded by four stone benches covered in handpainted tiles. Each of the hundreds of tiles features detailed images from the book Don Quixote de la Mancha by Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra. By looking at each one you could easily piece together the entire story.
Sadly, in 2015 the fountain was severely vandalized. Two statues of famous painter Salvador Dalí and Mexican master Diego Rivera were both stolen, never to be seen since. Many of the tiles were also taken or partially destroyed. The figures actually have a history of thievery. They were first made by Spanish sculptor Miguel Alessio Robles by stolen in 1974. So they were replaced by another set made by José María Fernández Urbina. Unfortunately, these would be sentenced to the same fate.
But thanks to public donations, the entire fountain is on its way to looking brand new once more! You can even make a donation yourself! A great way to support the park and preserve it for generations to come. Donations can be as little as 200 pesos (US$10), and it really goes a long way ! While you can’t entre the enclosure while restoring are underway, you can peek inside to get a sneak peek at once was. Plus you can even see the artists at work throughout the week, hard at work hand painting tiles.
Off to the east from the Fuente del Quijote is the Calzada De la Poetas or Poets’ Causeway. Along this stretch of the pathway are a series of busts of famous poets from the 19th and 20th centuries. The statues include Doña Inés de Asbaje y Ramírez de Santillana, better known as Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz OSH. Doña Inés was a Mexican writer, philosopher, composer and poet of the Baroque period. And to top it all off she was even a Hieronymite nun. Salvador Díaz Mirón was a Mexican poet known for his passionate, romantic style, influenced by Lord Byron and Victor Hugo. Manuel José Othón was a Mexican poet, playwright, and politician. One of his most famous works is Idilio Salvaje, considered one of the most representative poems of Mexico. You can read a part of this poem on the small plaque beside his bust.
Through the forest, to the west of the park, is the hidden away Carrusel De Chapultepec. Although this is meant for kids, I’m a sucker for a beautiful carousel. And this one is no exception. The amazing double-decker Carrusel De Chapultepec is a relatively new addition to the park. It was moved here in 2018 from its original location in Alameda Central. But its history is much older. Before its life in Mexico City, the carousel was once in Chicago but first made in Venice! Look up along the ceiling and roof that encircles the carousel. There, you can see intricately painted vignettes featuring scenes from life in Venice. An automatic piano plays music as the carousel spins, with over 1,800 spotlights twinkling as it turns round and round.
Open: Tuesday to Sunday.
Admission: $18 pesos (less than US$1) to ride. Adults can sit in the wooden benches on the first level.
At the intersection of Avenue H. Colegio Militar and Calz. Mahatma Gandhi is the Fuente de las Ranas. The Fuente de las Ranas or Fountain of the Frogs is an exact replica of a fountain of the same name in Seville. When Spanish lawyer Miguel Alessio Robles was named the Mexican minister in 1921, he ordered the fountain to be made. He wanted to bring to Mexico City a piece of his home country.
The fountain was first installed at the park entrance but has since been moved towards the back of the park. The fountain is covered in beautiful Sevillian tiles. Surrounding the outer edge is a series of eight rotund golden painted frogs. Their open mouths spraying water towards the bronze duck and tortoise who sit in the centre of the fountain. The duck sits atop the turquoise with its mouth pointing upwards, shooting water from its mouth into the air. It’s such a playful fountain and a wonderful addition to the park. It’s these little gems that make wandering the pathways so endearing.
Opposite the Fuente de las Ranas is the entrance to best fountain of them all; the Monumental Fuente de Nezahualcóyotl. Nezahualcóyotl is a name we’ve heard before as his impact in the history book, as well as in Chapultepec park was immense! Nezahualcóyotl was the monarch of the city-state of Texcoco in ancient Mexico from 1429 to 1472. He was known as a great poet in addition to a fantastic scholar and wonderful architect. His name means the “fasting coyote,” as fasting was considered a form of sacrifice. Some monarchs would do to attempt to appease the gods and aid their people. If you look for one of the old Mexican 100 peso bill you can see his face. Along with his portrait is one of his most cherished poems. It goes;
I love the song of the mockingbird,
Nezahualcóyotl
Bird of four hundred voices,
I love the colour of the jadestone,
And the intoxicating scent of flowers,
But more than all, I love my brother, man.
The Monumental Fuente de Nezahualcóyotl is by far the largest of all the fountains in the park. The fountain begins to emerge from the edge of the forest, and covers 1,250 square meters. Flowing like a vein up to the central square and domineering statue at the end of the wall-like fountain. It was made by sculptor Luis Ortiz Monasterio in 1956. The shape of the fountain was inspired by Nezahualcóyotl’s Dam. Nezahualcóyotl was instructed by Moctezuma I to construct a dam over 16 km long. The dam was to be used to defend against the flood waters which plagued the ancient Tenochtitlan (Mexico city). Nezahualcóyotl was also responsible for the aqueducts in Chapultepec forest that supplied Tenochtitlan with safe drinking water. This work earned him the reputation of the best architect in the Americas.
Monasterio’s fountain-like dam was inspired by the pre-hispanic architectural styles of the 15th century. Entering this area, you are greeted by a fantastic carving of a giant coyote. The coyote has his mouth open wide, a menacing smile, with water gushing forth. Water also flows out of the hundreds of carved medallions along the top of the wall. Once one carved from black stone from Xaltocan.
Along the facade of the fountain you’ll find eight large bas reliefs. Each one depicts a scene from the life of Nezahualcóyotl. The first relief shows Nezahualcóyotl’s birth, the death of his father, his battles for the territory, the arrival of water to Chapultepec and his death in 1472.
The sculpture in the centre of the square is of Nezahualcóyotl himself, standing nine meters tall. Watching over his beloved park forever. Behind him is a wall made of volcanic stones with three symbols emblazoned up the facade. Each of the symbols refers to the three tribes of indigenous peoples that inhabited the Valley of Mexico; the Texcoco, Tenochitlán and Tlacopan. It is a wonderful place to end the tour, to remember that this space was one a sacred site for the indigenous peoples and we are lucky to still be able to enjoy this green oasis today.
Chapultepec Park is truly a must-visit if you’re in Mexico City. It’s not only the perfect place to enjoy a peaceful day out, but also where you can learn a lot about Mexican culture and history. Make the effort to carve out the time to really appreciate the beauty of this sprawling natural sanctum.
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