Colonial Roma is the hipster heart of Mexico City. No doubt about it. There is a good reason why so many travellers refer to the area as the Williamsburg of Mexico City. If La Condesa is the “lungs,” then Roma Norte is Mexico City’s stomach. Roma Norte is known for having; the best bar scene, top-class restaurants, incredible street food, and picturesque cafes on every street corner. But the area is also home to some of the best-preserved colonial-era architecture. Every street is plush with greenery, ivy falling off the Juliet balconies above. Wide avenues are home to charming artisans and the idyllic parks are where locals come to relax.
To find the best of what this neighbourhood in Mexico City has to offer follow this walking tour through the streets of Roma Norte!
The neighbourhood of Roma Norte, also called Colonial Roma, is located south of the Paseo de la Reforma. And just below the Historic City Centre. Roma Norte’s central location makes it an ideal place for tourists. From here you can easily reach all the best spots in the city in no time! The Colonial Roma is so large that the area has been divided into the North and South. Avenue Yucatan is the main street that separates Roma Norte and Roma Sud. Each area has developed their own distinctive character. There is also a third district called La Romita. Today, we are taking a tour of Roma Norte. Roma Norte is by far the most lively and largest neighbourhood in the area.
Roma was one of the first upper-class neighbourhoods built in Mexico City. And I don’t just mean built in the 20th century. In 1529, the area that now makes up Roma was granted to Hernán Cortés by the Spanish Crown. During the colonial period, the Counts of Miravalle continued to control the area. This brought in more and more wealthy Spainairds into the neighbourhood. And with them the need for lavish residences.
But it wasn’t until the 19th century that we start to see the creation of the Roma we find today. And we have the strangest person to thank for the overall look and feel of the neighbourhood. And that is Englishman Eduardo Walter Orrin. Orrin made his wealth in the Circus of all places. The Orrin Circus arrived in Mexico City in 1872 after touring the US and South America.
The circus was a HUGE success in Latin America. It was so popular that Orrin was able to afford to build a permanent venue. The circus operated inside, what is now the Teatro Blanquita in the Centro Histórico, for over 26 years! When Eduardo Orrin finally closed the circus, he turned his eyes on real estate development. And there was no place more promising than the area just south of the historic centre…what we know today as Roma Norte!
In the late 19th century, the wealthy elite of Mexico City were fleeing the crumbling Centro Histórico. The Centro Histórico was literally sinking into the ground and the old architecture was deteriorating rapidly. The aristocracy of Mexico City were looking for wide-open spaces in which to build their mansions. They dreamt of modern, colonial architecture. Orrin, whose circus operated in the historic centre, heard these cries. So Orrin went about purchasing land to the south.
The name “Roma” was also Orrin’s idea and came from Circo Romano (Roman Circus.) Although somewhat dissimilar to today’s circus, the Roman Circus was the inspiration for his own money-making enterprise. Even the streets around Roma were inspired by the circus. Many of the roads were named after the Mexican cities where the Orrin Circus had travelled. You’ll find Puebla, Oxaca, Colima, Córdoba, Morelia and more!
Porfirio Diaz and his government were also interested in aiding the creation of this upper-class neighbourhood. The president was enthralled with the European cities he visited on his travels. He longed to make Mexico City as impressive as those European cities he so badly envied. Diaz and his government provided rich and modern infrastructure to the new colonial. This included running water lines and sewers. Sewers were a truly modern convenience that, at the time, only was available in the Roma neighbourhood!
Roma soon became a European aristocratic enclave. Inspired by the elegant boulevards of Paris, the street in Roma were widened. And many of the main streets were installed with double rows of trees. Medians were built in the centre of the roads to provide relaxing pedestrian walkways. In the 1940s and 1950s, the area drew in the best of the best of Mexico City. Artists, businessmen and politicians arrived in style. Famous chilangos such as Álvaro Obregón, David Alfaro Siqueiros and former president Mexico Luis Echeverría all found themselves living within these “walls”.
But in the 1950s, after WWII, the city began instituting lower rent regulations in these neighbourhoods. This act brought in more lower-class residents. The wealthier class railed against these newcomers, and many started to leave the area. More exclusive and luxurious areas like Polanco began to pop up. Drawing the remainder of the upper class out of Roma for good.
In addition to the new residents, taller buildings began to pop up around the colonial mansion. “Ruining” the look of the peaceful “town,” causing a further exodus. But the tall buildings weren’t just an eyesore; they were unknowing starting to disturb the ground below them.
This all came to a head on September 19th, 1985, at seven in the morning. An earthquake with a magnitude of 8.0 hit Mexico City. Thousands of buildings were levelled, and over 10,000 people lost their life. In Roma alone, 472 buildings were partially or entirely collapsed. The neighbourhood fell into complete disrepair. The population declined from 95,000 inhabitants in 1970 to 35,000 in 1995.
Reconstruction efforts were slow in these lower-class neighbourhoods. Regulations were put into place that no new apartment buildings could be constructed or older constructions adapted. This was to ensure the area remained intact until it could be repaired. But, by happy accident, this ended up preserving the remaining historic buildings for future residents and travellers.
In the last 10 years, the area has started to slowly become more and more gentrified. We are witnessing the rebirth and renaissance of Colonial Roma. Low rents and beautiful architecture brought the hipsters who have started to transform the streets once more. Today the area is home to some of the cities trendiest cafes, incredible street art, awe-inducing pastries, curated cocktails and top-class restaurants.
There are two main identifiable architecture styles in Roma; Porfirian Art Deco and Colonial Revival Style. The iconic architecture of Roma is marked by the fact that the new residents rejected the traditional Mexcian Baroque architecture found in the historic centre. That iconic red tezontle stone was replaced with wrought iron, crucial for highlighting the Art Deco elements.
French and Italian influences were also incorporated with Gothic and Moorish designs. Today, this combination of design styles is called “Porfirian architecture,” named after President Porfirio Diaz. Traditional Mexican brick and ceramics were replaced with modern metal and glass. Houses in this style were constructed up until 1910.
After the Mexican Revolution (1910-1920), the houses and buildings took on a Neo-Colonial or Colonial Revival Style. The era after the Revolution served as the antithesis to the Porfirian. The new President Venustiano Carranza‘s government even gave out federal tax exemptions to those who built houses in the colonial-revival style. These neo-colonial houses displayed a sense of nationalism and featured plateresque elements, pinnacles and mixtilinear arches. Architects brought back traditional materials such as tezontle, cantera and Talavera tiles.
As we walk along the streets, see if you can spot the various styles as we go!
There is no better place to start your morning in Roma Norte than at Panadería Rosetta. Panadería Rosetta is a café that combines the best of French and European traditions with Mexican ones. The café offers a daily selection of baked goods. So there is always something extra special to try depending on what day you come by. They offer both sweet and savoury bread and sandwiches, cakes, muffins and more! Everything hidden away in their little glass cases is to die for. Their baked good is so delicious that this bakery delivers their goods to dozens of cafes around town. But I like coming right to the source!
Grabbing your coffee and pastries to go, head north along Orizaba Street towards the stunning Plaza Río de Janeiro. Plaza Río de Janeiro (or Rio de Janeiro Square) was originally named Plaza Roma but it was renamed in 1922. Mexico was invited to attend the Brazilian centenary celebration in 1922 and wanted to pay tribute to their brotherly city. So they decided instead of building an entirely new park, they would just rename this one for them.
The columns of cacti that line the park’s edge create these wonderful architectural elements created out of the natural environment. The park’s pathways swirl and curl around the central parkette. Creating this almost mesmerizing and yet peaceful atmosphere.
One of the park’s most interesting features is the replica statue of Michelangelo‘s David. It stands in the centre of the park looking over the central fountain. One might wonder why there is an Italian statue smack dab in the centre of the park dedicated to Brazil. In truth, there is no connection between the two. Simply, the city architects of the time were on a quest to turn Mexican parks into European squares. Going so far as creating these exact replicas. We will see more and more along the rest of our tour so keep an eye out!
On either side of the park, you’ll find some incredible examples of old colonial and art deco mansions. Their stone and wrought iron Juliet balconies looking out towards the park are draped in their own set of greenery. The most important house surrounding the park is the Edificio Rio de Janeiro. It is found on the east side of the park. Easily identifiable by the large green awning and art deco lettering that marks its entrance. While the building is today called ‘Edificio Rio de Janeiro’ years ago, the house went by a very different name…
While the lower, street-level exterior is covered in wrought iron and art deco elements, these were added in the 1930s. The original castle-inspired red-brick building was built in 1908. The house was called the La Casa de las Brujas (The Witch’s House). It was nicknamed as such due to the pointed tower located in the corner of the building. It was thought to perfectly resemble a pointed witch’s hat. But the witch symbolism doesn’t stop there! Many people thought that the windows below the “hat” resembled a human face. The (now) bricked up ovals were the yes, the lintel was the nose and the pointed balcony the mouth. To get the effect, you need to look at the house from the northwest corner. And trust me, it’s hard to miss!
Rumours began to spread that only a witch could have devised such a creation. Stories say her name was La Pachita. And she would watch people coming about their business in the park from her windows. Perhaps looking for victims or buyers of her next spell. But sadly, the truth is much more boring. The house was designed by architect Enrique Sánchez Sedeño. He was working under the Porfiriato and was influenced by European designs. He drew on elements from Gothic architecture and Viennese-style windows to create the house we see today.
Continue past the park, up Orizaba street, towards the Iglesia de la Sagrada Familia. This church sits on the corner of Puebla street. The exterior of the church is awe-inspiring, filled with rich neo-romanesque decorations. This was the first church in Colonial Roma in 1910. One of my favourite aspects of the church is the neo-Gothic rose window above the entrance. The window is surrounded by ornate stone carvings of palm leaves. The stunning Italian-made stained glass windows are also filled with organic designs of plants and flowers. As the entirety of Roma feels like a living garden, the church fits right into that blooming environment.
Kiddie corner to the church is the Casa Universitaria del Libro UNAM, another iconic building from the history of Roma. It was built in 1920 and originally designed as an elegant residence for Joaquín Baranda MacGregor, a preeminent politician. The mansion was created by the same designer as the church. He chose for this house the art deco style so popular at the time. Today the house is iconic for its green wrought iron scalloped gates and bright green shutters. The building is a venue for various academic activities and book publications from the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México.
If you have the chance to pop your head inside, definitely take advantage of that opportunity! The entrance features a large irregular hexagonal hall, with a central staircase leading up to a great stained glass. The stained glass features the church of San Francisco Javier in Tepotzotlan, one of the most beautiful churches in Mexico.
Continue walking west along Puebla Street. This street’s sidewalks are famous for being packed with street vendors. Here is my quick guide on how to sample them safely:
Take a shortcut down Pomona Street. At #30 you can spot a gorgeous example of green Talavera tiles brought in by the colonial revivalists. A great photo op spot! Despite being an utterly residential street, there are some of the most fantastical slices of architecture here. Study the inset entrance at #46, guarded with huge and ornate wrought iron bars. Exiting onto the Calle de Durango, walk west towards the large roundabout, our next stop.
Popping out of the quaint side street, you’ll exit onto the busy Plaza Villa de Madrid. In the center of this large roundabout is a mammoth circular plaza featuring a dramatic fountain. The Fuente de Cibeles made a replica of the original fountain of the same name found in Madrid. The city to which the plaza is also named. The community around the plaza were primarily residents originally from Spain. They wanted to bring something to Mexico City that represented their homeland. It was designed as a symbol to link both cities in their shared brotherhood.
The fountain features the goddesses Cibele. She is the mistress of wild nature, sitting in her bronze chariot. Cibele is pulled by her companions, her two pet lions. They are a male and female, representing fertility. Cibele also is the godess of protection, also symbolized in the fearsome lions. She carries an oversized key in her hand, which indicates her power over earth. In the other hand, she carries a sceptre, a symbol of her power over the seasons.
Fittingly, as Cibele represents the seasons, she is surrounded in Springtime by Mexico City’s most impressive seasonal features; the Jacaranda trees. The best time of to see the Jacaranda trees is during later March and early April. This is when they are in full bloom and create a halo of purple blossoms all around the plaza. The plaza is surrounded by some very hip cafes and restaurants. It is a great place to return to while away a lazy afternoon.
On Saturdays and Sundays, the Bazar El Oro pops up on the corner of El Oro and Colima street. Just down the road from the Fuente de Cibeles. It’s a wonderful and eclectic neighbourhood market filled, with shops set up under brightly coloured tarps. Everything from traditional quesadillas to clothing, accessories, music, and coffee is on sale here!
From here, we will take a short walk down the busy six-lane Avenue Insurgentes. Insurgentes is the longest avenue in Mexico City, at 28.8 kilometres or 17.9 miles! It passes through almost every neighbourhood; Condesa, Roma, Del Valle, Napoles, San Ángel and Pedregal until it reaches the southern suburbs. The name ‘Insurgentes’ comes from the Insurgent Army (Ejército de Los Insurgentes.) This army fought for Mexican independence from Spain during the in the early 19th century. Their efforts are the reason Mexico City is free from European control today. Giving them such a large memorial street is a wonderful way of remembering their sacrifice.
If you were hesitant to try the street tacos, the famous Orinoco Taco is the perfect place to grab lunch. This is one of the most popular taco shops in Roma Norte. Best known for their famous trompo or taco al pastor. Taco al pastor or “shepherd style” tacos are made from spit-grilled pork. The dish was created after Lebanese immigrants introduced shawarma to Mexicans. The pork is marinaded in adobada (red chile) paste and spit roasted with a large pineapple placed on top.
When it is served, it is companied by sliced onions, cilantro and the all-important roasted pineapple. Added to give it that hint of sweetness. Taco al pastor is my favourite kind of taco, and there is no visit to Mexico City without trying them. You should really try all three traditional varieties to decide which one is your favourite. Pair the meal with an agua fresca and, of course, a side of Chicharron (fried pork rinds.)
If you’d rather grab something more substantial, make a detour along Insurgentes. Walk along for about eight minutes until you reach C. Querétaro. Just a few steps from the intersection is the food paradise of the Mercado Roma. The sprawling three-story “market” is more of a food hall. There are no fruit and vegetable stands here. Instead, you’ll find upscale tapas, vegan tacos, a rooftop beer garden and boutique-style dessert stands. The aim of the market was to bring the concept of a gourmet market together with the local community. You can sit around communal tables and perhaps even make a few new friends inside.
To continue the tour, head back to Insurgentes, and walk east via the Avenida Álvaro Obregón. Many people refer to Avenida Álvaro Obregón as the “main street” in Roma Norte. The best way to explore this street is to step into the pedestrian median. Walking between the two lanes of traffic. The design of the street was meant to replicate French boulevards, which also featured central medians.
Along the median, you can stop and sit on one of the many benches. Take a moment to relax under the trees or study the sculptures found along the way. The central walkway is home to bustling art and an antique market which pops up on the weekends.
Remember Michalengo’s David we saw before? Well, the sculptures along this street are also replicas of famous Italian works of art. They feature characters from Greek and Roman mythology. There are twelve sculptures in total. The fountains include copies of Mirón‘s Discobolus, Michelangelo‘s Bacchus and the Venus de Milo.
Just past Jalapa Street, stop just inside El Parián, the art-nourveau arcade. This incredible colonial building features eye-catching art-nouveau-style windows. Framing the windows are incredibly detailed stoned carving with charming characters encircling the building.
Stepping inside, you’ll be able to admire the newly renovated covered shopping arcade. Shops line either side of the passageway. The interior is drenched in light, thanks to the glass ceiling above your head. The new arcade features a fantastical tiled floor, art deco-style decorations and a wash of greenery. It makes you feel like shopping inside a botanical garden!
A few doors down from El Parián, you’ll come to a small store piled high are thousands of books. Librería Ático is one of those bookstores that feels lived in, in the best way possible. There is a combination of cheap, used books and antique volumes over 100 years old. While you might not find a huge selection of English language books here, I love perusing the vintage collections. I always search out vintage coffee table books filled with pictures. They make for great conversations pieces. And you can use them to help study your Spanish!
Across the street from Librería Ático is the Edificio Balmori or Balmori Building. The Balmori Building was built in 1922 and later renovated in 1991 to restore the damage from the 1985 earthquake. The building was designed to feature an eclectic combination of historical styles. The new Colonial Roma aimed to imitate European architecture. But they went about it in their own unique ways. This resulted in the amalgamations of style we see today. Study the building for long enough and you can spot; classical, art nouveau, belle epoque, and even Art Deco decorations.
If you prefer shopping for newer books, you must make your way over to Cafebrería El Péndulo Roma. Cafebrería El Péndulo is a bookstore chain, found across Mexico City. But each store has its own unique personality. Standing three storeys tall when you walk inside, look up to see all the bookshelves towering over you. It almost feels like entering the M.C Escher version of a bookstore. Péndulo always carries a wide selection of English language books. Real plants are dotted around the shop, bringing life into every corner you step inside.
Just south of Cafebrería El Péndulo is the Casa Prunes. The Casa Prunes is hidden away on historic Chihuahua street. Despite its rather obscure location, it is one of the best remaining examples of Art Nouveau architecture in Roma. True art-nouveau has all but disappeared. Save for this location. It is indeed a rare bird. The architects were inspired by the natural forms of the prune tree. You can see the arching branches and even bunches of prunes hanging off the stone window carvings.
Despite its artistic impact, the house was left abandoned for years. Only recently has it been renovated. You can now step inside and enjoy a drink in this chic cocktail bar.
Continue west along Chihuahua street and then south on Orizaba. Walk until you reach the small but delightful parkette inside Plaza Luis Cabrera. The park is named after politician Luis Cabrera. Cabrera was known for speaking out against the governments of Álvaro Obregón. He fought to protect the rights of the lower-class. The square was designed to mirror Plaza Rio de Janeiro.
The park sits on the edge of Orizaba and Zacatecas Street, a popular area in the 1950s for American writers. Authors like Jack Kerouac, William Burroughs and Allen Ginsberg made their pilgrimage to CDMX. Some of the writers were fleeing America for what they saw as a more romanticized, foreign land. Others (Burroughs) were literally fleeing drug possession charges. Either way, they saw Mexico City as somewhere they could indulge in their vices. In the 1950s, Roma was on the decline. These ex-pats could get away living in robust colonial mansions, drinking and eating all day for very little money.
Famously, Kerouac wrote many stories of his adventures using peyote. He and Burroughs would take it together and lie in the grass in the Plaza Luis Cabrera. Regaling each other of what they saw in their hallucinations. But Roma wasn’t all champagne and roses for these writers. William Burroughs lived just off Avenida Álvaro Obregón (where we stopped for tacos). It was here in 1951 that, after one too many drinks, Burroughs life would change forever. He and his wife were playing with his pistol when he accidentally shot her in the head. She died on the spot. Despite being accidental, Burroughs was convicted to a two-year suspended sentence. But the trauma of the incident spurred him on to become a better writer. And perhaps the reason he is so prolific today.
Looking to find a way to spend the rest of your afternoon? Consider a visit to one of Roma’s many museums.
My favourite museum in Roma Norte is the MODO Museo del Objeto. I love to study vintage packaging, advertising, and graphic deisgn. These items and practical objects, dating as far back as 1810, tell a rich story about the culture and communities they served. The museum started as one man’s personal collection and today contains over 30,000 items. Bruno Newman is a researcher looking into the history of design and communications. This museum is a wonderful chance for him to share his finding with the rest of us!
Casa Lamm is now a fantastic gallery and cultural center. But when it was first built in 1911, it served as an aristocratic residence. Although the family never got around to living in it. The mansion was designed to be emblematic of the Euro-Mexican style. Encompassing as many European design elements as possible. But Casa Lamm manages to do it elegantly where all the ornaments somehow feel cohesive.
After changing hands several times, the house was transformed and saved from utter ruin in 1993. It was turned into the Casa Lamm Culture Center. The centre set out to serve and educate the community in academic and artistic endeavours. Today, students can receive their BA, Master or Doctorates in Art History, Museum Management, Art Curatorship and Creative Writing.
But the public can enter the centre to explore various public areas. There is the fantastic Liberia Pegaso bookstore. Here you can find some incredible books on the art and architecture of Mexico City. You can also explore their various galleries featuring a rotating list of contemporary artists. You can also explore their gorgeous garden filled with exemplary sculptures from famous and up and coming Mexican artists.
If you’re into contemporary, avant-garde art, you should make a point to visit the OMR Gallery. The OMR prides itself on representing emerging and established contemporary artists. Many of these artists are instrumental in the development of Mexico City’s contemporary art scene. The gallery is located inside an industrial-style building perfect for featuring these contemporary works for art. The space blends together the indoors and outdoors. Allowing the art works to pour out into the courtyard to best serve the artistic experience.
Make your way back up Orizaba to Colima Street. Colima Street is home to some of the best restaurants in the area. To end your evening in Roma Norte, make reservations at Rosetta restaurant. This incredible culinary experience is located inside an old villa whose courtyard has been restored to serve a the restaurant’s dining room. The entire place is filled with plants, making you feel as though you are dining al fresco. The ambiance is outstanding, and the dishes are ever-changing to suit the season. Locally sourced produce is reflected in the ever-changing menu. I always lean towards the chef’s inventive takes on traditional Mexican cusine. Dishes like white mole with fermented carrots and charcoal are the perfect example of this modern take on classical dishes.
In my opinion, no meal (especially dinner) is complete without dessert! Head next door to Helados Cometa for some of the best ice creams in the entire city! Everything here is made from scratch. Unlike other shops in the city with an overwhelming menu, their selection is small but flawless. Ensuring every bite is made to perfection. Even their cones are handmade and have an added element of salt which wonderfully complements the sweet cream! Try the honey and pistachio, or rose and pistachio (pretty much anything with pistachio!)
For those who don’t want the night to end, or like me, want to poke their heads into every building, you can safely bar hop along with the Avenida Álvaro Obregón. Gin Gin Álvaro Obregón is my favourite bar thanks for their out-of-this-world, skeletal decor! Their cocktail menu is IMMENSE, and highlights (as is the name of the bar infers) gin! As the night wears on, a DJ will sometimes play live music. While this can get very loud, if that’s your vibe, you’ll really enjoy yourself.
There are many other places to explore and discover, but this brings us to the end of your guided tour of Roma Norte! I hope you enjoyed yourself and learned more about this fantastical slice of Mexico City. Let me know in the comments what other neighbourhoods we should explore next!
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Great guide! Helped us a lot! Thank you so much.
Very interesting and nice walking tour