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I have a shocking admission to make…I never used to like New York. Having travelled there a few times over the years and every time, I was left feeling underwhelmed. Maybe it was the hype. But I always felt that it was a slightly more expensive, larger version than Toronto (my hometown), and I didn’t see any reasons to return.
But over the years, I stopped trying to see all the “top attractions” and instead started to explore smaller areas of the city. I stayed in one spot and dug in deep there. I stopped paying attention to what bothered me and instead focused on the beauty of my surroundings. While I’m never a fan of avoiding certain touristy things just because they are “popular,” some things overhyped parts of town. I’ve learned from exploring New York many times what’s worth avoiding and worth your attention, time and money.
The Empire State building is a touchstone of great American architecture and is the star of the iconic New York skyline. There are no if, and’s or but’s about that. But do you have to wait in line for hours and pay over $40 to ride up the elevator and view it from the inside? The short answer is no. While the view from the top is great, it is missing one thing. The Empire State Building. The lines are incredibly long, and there is so much more you can do with the time rather than line up for an elevator.
Rockefeller Tower used to be such a good alternative to the Empire State building, but after some recent renovations and its eventual popularity, the ticket prices are exactly the same price as the Empire State building. The queues might be shorter, and you DO get a view of the Empire State building from here, but it’s still not the cheaper and easiest option. I would recommend heading to the Roof Garden at the Met. From here, it feels like you’re floating above Manhattan on top of a tree-lined canopy. At night the sparkling lights of the city twinkle all around you. Access is free with your Museum entrance ticket, and if all you want to do is gawk at the views, it won’t cost you a cent!
Times Square is one of those places that, if you’ve seen it you still have a certain image in your mind of what it’s like. “It’s bright, it’s loud, it’s vibrant and fun!” While it is technically all of those things, there are so many other aspects of Times Square which aren’t part of your idealized version. Things like crowds so dense you can barely move, hustlers and street performers trying to pressure you into giving them money, and angry New Yorkers pushing you out of their way as they TRY and make their way to the subway station.
And worst of all, in my opinion, an entire lack of character. This place has been taken over by big brands and giant advertisements. Big-name stores that you can find in any mall across America are right here just a little bigger and a lot more crowded and messy. If you HAVE to see it just to say you did, hop out of the subway station, snap a pick and head right back down.
If you’re looking for somewhere to gawk at the city’s lights, I suggest heading to Bryant Park. It might not be as flashy or commercial as Times Square, but that’s the point. But in a lot of ways, it is very similar. It is surrounded by bright lights and has incredible views of some of New York’s most iconic structures. The park is lit from above all night long, meaning crowds of people hang out here in the evening well past when it out otherwise be too dark to be in a public park. Some musicians always entertain the crowds and kids playing on the grass. People gather here, both locals and tourists, and there is a real sense of community here, which Time Square lacks.
The MET, the MoMA, the Guggenheim and the American Museum of Natural History are some of NYC’s largest and most popular museums. On the weekends, the lines for these places can get very long. Although I LOVE these museums, I feel like tourists always flock to them without considering all the other smaller museums, which are sometimes much less busy and often easier to explore in one go. The MET is very overwhelming if you try to do it all in one day and sometimes the modest museums are more digestible and easier to spend only a few hours in if you’re visiting NYC for just a short haul.
The Morgan Library and Museum is one of the city’s most incredible hidden gems. Located at 225 Madison Avenue, it was founded to house the private library of J. P. Morgan in 1906. The interiors look like something out of the Italian Renaissance, with incredible ornate wallpaper, gilded shelves, opulent tapestries and a ceiling crowned with a stunning stained glass masterpiece. The murals throughout the library were inspired by Raphael. It truly is more than a library; it is an enormous work of art. You can view various books from his collections throughout the year, and there are always different book-related exhibitions in the smaller galleries, which are often extremely well-curated and always a lot of fun.
Taxies and Ubers in other cities are sometimes HUGE time savers and low-cost options to get around big towns. But in New York neither of those things is true. Taxies are extremely costly, and the traffic jams in the city are neverending. You’ll end up sitting in one spot for so long that you’ll wonder if you’ve even moved. Don’t waste your time on these, and you’ll save time, stress and most of all – money!
The Metro in New York is not only incredibly large but also very convenient. The subway gets you everywhere you want to go in a jiffy, and the public buses are amazingly helpful in getting you to places where the subway doesn’t go. The MET Cloisters, for instance, is located far outside the city centre but on the subway and one quick bus, you’ll get there in less time than it takes to hail a cab (ok, not really, but it’s really quick).
I recommend grabbing a metro card which you can load up with as much or as little money as you want, and then all you need to do is swipe the card when entering the subway or bus, and your card will be automatically deducted, no need to calculate the cost of each ride. Super easy. If you run out of money there are machines all over the place where you can load more money onto your card. Moovit is a great app as it will help you find out which route to take and offers live interruption notices so you can plan accordingly.
No morning is complete for most of us without a cup of coffee Yes, Starbucks and Dunkin Donuts are on every corner in NYC, but when visiting a city this dynamic and interesting, it’s a waste to drink the same ol’ coffee; you could get anywhere else. NYC has some of the best coffee shops in the world, and it would be remiss of you not to explore them!
Cha Cha Matcha is one of the city’s most unusual and visually appealing places to get your caffeine on. While not technically a “coffee shop,” they serve up some of the most delicious macha beverages I’ve ever tried. Everyman Espresso serves up fair trade brews in a low-key setting for those not wanting to interact with the Instagramming crowds at Cha Cha Matcha. But don’t think that non-chain coffee shops mean you must spend a fortune. Diners are the bread and butter of NYC, and all of them serve amazing, simple cups of joe. While Joe Jr. Restaurant doesn’t look like much from the outside, this greasy spoon is known for its friendly service, awesome breakfast sandwiches and classic cups of coffee!
You’ll see people peddling $30-$60 sightseeing cruises all over the waterfront. These are overpriced, overcrowded and just plain unnecessary. The only real advantage of taking a sightseeing cruise is the interactive tour guide; most of these are merely recordings on a barely functioning headset.
If you’re heading to Staten Island, the Ferry is free and offers amazing views of the Lower Manhattan skyline, Ellis Island, and the majestic Statue of Liberty. If you don’t want to head to Staten Island, I recommend heading over to the Brooklyn Heights Promenade, a gorgeous neighbourhood east of the city that offers incredible panoramic views of the New York skyline.
Soho was the go-to shopping recommendation for everyone visiting NYC years ago. It was once the place for off-the-beaten-path restaurants and boutiques, but its popularity over the years has resulted in this place is as clogged as Time square. Chain retailers and huge brands have set up shop in once unassuming storefronts, and now it feels more like an open-air Mall of America than a bohemian district.
The lower east side features some of the city’s most exciting and innovative shops and vintage stores. It is still pretty unpretentious and inclusive to tourists and locals alike (unlike some areas of Brooklyn…) Tokyo Rebel is one of my favourite spots as it features many brands imported from Japan that highlight the Lolita, punk, and goth fashion, which is so popular over there. Even if it’s not your style this place is definitely worth poking your head inside. Big Gay Ice Cream Shop is THE place to go for something sweet and is especially good on a hot summer’s day.
Central Park is a beautiful place for sure. It over more than 29,000 acres of parkland and even has a zoo! And while more tourists who are visiting NYC for the first time will feel the need to at least see a portion of this famous park (understandable), there are plenty of other amazing options throughout the city where you can spend a lovely morning or afternoon which are even better than this place.
Fort Tryon Park, north of Manhattan, near the MET cloisters is my favourite park in the city. It has incredible views across the Hudson River and has even more beautiful landscaping than Central Park. I love seeing all the ivy growing up in the brick archways connecting the fort’s walls throughout the park. Brooklyn Bridge Park is another one that combines the urban landscape with vast expanses of greenery for cozy picnics under the sun. Plus, you have that iconic Brooklyn Bridge in front of you and that stunning Manhattan skyline.
I hear many people chattering whenever I’m booking a trip to NYC, talking about how expensive it must be. I suppose it does have a reputation, and as such a big city, the cost of hotels might be slightly more than elsewhere in the world, but after travelling to Nashville and seeing the cost of those hotels, NYC seems like a bargain. The truth is NYC has thousands of hotels, so the competition here is fierce, and the chance of finding a sweet deal during a reasonably popular time of the year is very good. You don’t need to immediately book yourself into a hostel with shared bathrooms, no walls, or, god forbid….a chance of bed bugs.
If you are booking well enough in advance, you’ll have the chance to shop around. Expedia makes it easy to make reservations and cancel them without fees until the day you arrive. This means you can jump on a good deal when you find one but cancel it if something better comes along. Korea Town is my go-to area for hotel deals. There are beautiful hotels here without the overpriced frills of more modern areas like midtown or the upper east side. Korea town is steps from the Empire State Building, so you’ll always have a great view steps from your hotel.
New York seems to be a wash with “trendy foods” rainbow bagels, cronuts, tv famous cupcakes and even those 5,000-calorie milkshakes. While these foods might make for the best Instagram photo, the things you’ll sacrifice to get it might not be worth it. Locals have the time to kill waiting in line; you are a tourist and don’t have such luxuries. Time is precious and you don’t want to spend it waiting in lines.
Van Leeuwen is one of the most delicious and dynamic ice cream chains in NYC, and the fact that it’s a chain means that its locations aren’t always packed to the gills. They serve up artisanal flavours on rotators throughout the year so there’s always some new to try. With flavours like Blackberry Danish, Candied Ginger and Cookie Swirl you’ll still have something incredible to post on your feed! They also serve up Vegan and Gluten-free flavours so there’s something for everyone.
Canal Street has long been the site for hustlers selling knock-offs purses, bags and even jewellery. These “purses” often come as low a price as $20. And while most people who come here to shop know what they’re getting is fake, you’re still supporting an underground economy, and the effects of this kind of low-level crime are much higher than you might think. Plus, the bags never last as long as they should, even for the $20 price tag.
The Artists & Fleas Williamsburg is a fantastic place to support local creators and the art community in New York. Here you’ll find one-of-a-kind pieces made by people contributing to the city’s incredible artistic nature. There are many cute stalls, everything from jewellery to vintage clothes, art, soap, candles and more. There would be something at every price range, too, so if you all wanted to spend that $20, you could find something here for that price!
While Little Italy is still a great neighbourhood to visit with delicious food and interesting shops, it’s unfortunately become somewhat of a tourist attraction recently. And lost a little bit of its authenticity. Plus, so many lesser-known neighbourhoods in the city are crying out for your attention.
It’s no secret that Koreatown is one of my favourite parts of the city. ‘K-Town’ as it is called by locals is located on West 32nd Street, between Broadway and 5th Avenue. Here you can have a blast from dawn till dusk. Start your morning at Grace Street with some Korean doughnuts and avocado-katsuobushi waffles. Pair it with a roasted oolong milk tea. Then head to the 24-hour spa, and grab lunch at one of the many Korean BBQ restaurants (the lunch bbq you can eat is much cheaper than dinner and just as delicious).
Check out Besfren Beauty to nab some Korean face masks to quench your thirsty skin. If you’re looking for a sweet treat, head to Paris Baguette for a Parisian-Korean pastry fusion and bubble tea. For an elegant dinner, head to Hangawi for a vegetarian take on Korean cuisine. Finish the evening by singing your favourite tunes in one of the many karaoke clubs!
Manhattan is great, and there is SO MUCH TO DO, but don’t get caught up there and never leave. There are so many locations outside Manhattan which are fantastic and worth visiting. The lure of the big city is very strong, but escaping its clutches will usually result in fewer crowds and more local experiences.
Brooklyn Heights is such a historical part of the city and so important to the development of New York as the superpower city it is today. You can visit some of the oldest houses in new york, the site of George Washington’s old residence and even study the names of all the different streets along the way. Each one is named after a different kind of tree which used to grow here. All in all, it’s a wonderful place to spend an afternoon, and there are a ton of incredible restaurants which lack a little of the upscale nature of the ones found inside Manhattan’s iron curtain.
New York is enormous. It is more vast and crowded than any other city in America, and seeing everything even in a week will result in feeling really burnt out by the end of your trip. And rushing from place to place also means you don’t have the chance to stop at places you find along the way. Some off-the-beaten-path discoveries are often the best part of the trip, so you don’t want to miss out on them!
Instead of running from the east to the west and back again, over and over again. Try to group different places on your “to-see” list onto a google map and allocate different days to different neighbourhoods and districts. Even if the few items you have on the list won’t take up the entire day, don’t rush out of there. Take your time to explore the side street and get to know the lay of the land. It will be a richer and more rewarding adventure than trying to run all over the city trying to see every iconic site just to say you did.
What are your favourite things to do or explore in New York City? Let me know in the comments!
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This was such a great guide! I am totally guilty of seeing mosty touristy places and staying in dirty little hostels and wearing myself out trying to see it all. Need to change that during my next trip. Thank you!