Skip Marseille: Why You Need to Stay in a Small Town in Provence

On my last trip to France, we explored the scenic southeast of the country: Provence, famous for its lavender fields, stunning landscapes and unbelievable food. Provence has several famous places to stay, and Arles, Nice, Avignon and Marseille are all very popular with tourists. While these incredible towns were a joy to visit, we decided to make our home base in the almost unheard-of town of Mérindol. But why stay in a small town that is farther away from the big sights and doesn’t immediately appear to cater to foreign tourists? I’ll tell you why, and hopefully by the end you’ll be convinced that a small, little-known town is just right for your next trip to Provence.

Forced Interactions = Intimacy

In tourist hubs, it’s easy to slip into a chain supermarket and check out without saying a word or really interacting with anyone. Staying in a little-known village instead means you’ll experience a side of rural France you won’t find in the larger cities. We found that very few people spoke English, so we got by with our French and non-verbal communication.

While this might sound frightening to some, it makes you interact with the locals on a more intimate level. The extra time each exchange takes means you really get to know them, and they get to know you. A mother and son were always working the till at our local fruit market, and it was great to get to know them as we stopped in for something different every day.

The Price

Staying in a small town means you’ll save a lot of money and get much more space. We rented an enormous, renovated 17th-century manor house that made us feel like we were staying in a castle! The house was huge, and we had so much fun wandering the grounds and discovering new hidden features of the stone edifice. We had our own private pool, five bedrooms, a beautiful dining room and an outdoor eating area, and best of all, a jaw-dropping view across the Luberon valley. All of this cost under $230 US a night, which worked out to just under $46 per person. While you can certainly find cheaper hostels, for the size, amenities and incredible location, you really can’t beat the value of a small town.

Local Restaurants

Eating at local restaurants that don’t aim to cater to tourists gives you the chance to eat what the locals eat. The menus are almost all in French, but the staff were always kind about helping us figure out what everything was and what to order. They seemed so happy to have us in their restaurant, and so proud of their cuisine and the chance to share it with us. I assume that while serving the same people day in and day out is a lovely routine, it must be exciting to show off to some newcomers.

Local dishes are simple yet tasty, since much of what the kitchens use is grown nearby and the freshness adds to the flavour. You’ll also be paying small-town prices: we found glasses of wine noticeably cheaper than they would be in Avignon, under an hour away. You might find it hard to pull yourself away from the bar at those prices, and with the good wines this region has to offer. We came to know the restaurant owners by name, and when we left, they hugged us goodbye. While I LOVE eating at the Michelin-starred restaurants you can find in the big cities, I don’t think you’ll ever find the charming kindness you’ll receive in places like Mérindol.

People Are Curious

You get a lot of attention as the new faces in a town with a population of just over 2,000. While that attention might not be for everyone, we found that we were absolutely doted on. People knew who we were right away, even if they hadn’t met us, since we were the only ones in town they didn’t recognize. They were keen to show us different parts of the village, share their favourite baked goods and tell us little details about the town’s history.

The Architecture

Small towns have a style of architecture all their own, often shaped by local artisans rather than famous architects. Trends from the wider world arrived here too, but they were interpreted by local hands, in a style unique to each maker. In Mérindol, the façades tell the story of the centuries, with chronograms dating from the 17th and 18th centuries and handsome bastides. Less urbanization and modernization also mean that many of these towns feel lost in the past, in the most romantic way possible. Cobblestones that may date from the days of horse-drawn carriages still line the streets, and if you look close enough, you can make out what look like the indentations of wagon wheels.

Peace and Quiet

While a relaxing vacation might not be for everyone, a small town makes you unwind without you even knowing it. Everything is done at a slower pace, and you have to give in to the atmosphere. I’m someone who loves to go-go-go, but in Mérindol I found myself just wanting to sit out on my balcony, looking over the valley and enjoying the sunset. Although we did head out of town throughout the week, almost all of us chose one or more days to simply stay at the house and enjoy our home-away-from-home. Sitting on that balcony, reading the antique books I found on the dusty shelves, will always be one of the most powerful memories I hold close to my heart from that trip.

Discovery

A small town in France like Mérindol doesn’t have a long list of “activities” on TripAdvisor, and we found it filled few chapters in our guidebooks. We also found little information online (although I’m working on my own post about this lovely place). That means it’s up to you to discover things for yourself. We found a little path near our house and set off to explore. When we reached the top, we were surprised to find a historic site with a plaque in French all about the area.

We had to translate every word to figure out the history of where we were standing, and we were mesmerized by this incredible story of war and loss, just a stone’s throw from our house. Learning about it was so exciting because we hadn’t read about it or even known it existed. The same thing seemed to happen every time we took a walk: we would wander across a stunning vista or find the most charming little church. We hadn’t known about any of them, and we were thrilled to discover each one.

Be Your Own Chef

One possible downside of small towns is that there are few restaurants, and some close for a day or two each week. But I don’t see this as a true downside; I see it as an opportunity! The lack of places to go out for dinner means you get to cook for yourself. While many of us go on vacation to avoid cooking, there is something exciting about going to the local market and seeing what seasonal produce is around. Buy whatever looks delicious. I wouldn’t worry too much about making a “recipe” per se. Instead, buy up items to make a little picnic at home.

Fresh Food Shopping

My favourite foods from Provence were fresh fruit from roadside stalls and a loaf of soft, crusty bread from the bakery, along with a few of the baker’s favourite desserts. Our cheese came from a man down the road who sold it out of his kitchen fridge. Olives and cured sausage from the corner store are a perfect accompaniment. There are shops selling wine from wineries around the region in the surrounding villages, so stop by and pick up the owner’s favourite. Together, this makes for a laid-back meal you can enjoy in the comfort of your rental home. Kick your feet up and recount your favourite memories from the trip so far, staring out across the vivid landscape.

So, why stay in a small town that is farther from the big sights? Because it gives you what the tourist hubs can’t: real conversations with the people who live there, a castle-sized house at a great price, slow evenings on a balcony and discoveries you make on foot. Staying in a small town might not be for everyone, and you’ll want to be able to rent a car, since public transport in towns this size is limited. But there is absolutely a delightful charm to them. The silent streets you’ll have all to yourself will call your name to come back soon. I know they still call mine, and I can’t wait to visit again.