If you plan a trip over the holidays, you might have to put in a little bit more effort in your scheduling to ensure you know what is and isn’t closed around the week of Christmas. That being said, there are so many unique events and activities on Christmas, which make all that work more than worth it!
When planning my Christmas trip to Stockholm, I initially didn’t think about Christmas Holiday closures. When you plan a dream trip, you don’t typically think about all that could go wrong or might not happen. But after booking all my flights, I thought, “Hmm, I wonder if I should be worried about anything being closed while I’m there.” Well, it turns out there was a lot that was going to close while I was there but nothing that a little planning couldn’t fix! All it took was plotting a careful schedule to ensure that everything I wanted to fit into the trip was scheduled on the days when things were open.
If you’re planning a Christmas trip to Stockholm, here is how to plan your activities perfectly to ensure you see everything your festive little heart desires! I’ve laid out a sample itinerary for you, so you know what you need to visit on which day to make it there before it closes for the holidays. It’s designed as a holiday set in the week leading up to Christmas Day. But you can quickly shift it around to fit your particular schedule.
If you are picturing snow-capped rooftops on your Christmas trip to Stockholm, you might want to adjust your thinking. Although Stockholm does get snow, having a large snowfall around Christmas is a rarity. If you want to see some snow, it’s easy enough to jump on a train and head north toward the colder weather.
Despite the lack of snow, it does get pretty cold in Stockholm in December. The average high is 1°C, but the low is -3°C. Add the wind chill off the water, and without proper clothes, you can be freezing. But, embrace the Nordic saying of “there is no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing!” I was sure to bring lots of thermals for layering under my clothes. I also got warm wool sweaters, waterproof boots and an excellent selection of cute hats and gloves, making dressing for the cold all the more fun!
Being located so far north, Sweden gets much less sunlight in December than you might be used to in your own country. Even here in Toronto, it gets dark around 5 pm but in Stockholm, expect it to get dark as early as 2 pm! If you want to see something specific during the day, make sure you plan this into your schedule. But the darkness means you’ll be able to enjoy all those Christmas lights almost all day long!
NOFO was recommended to me by my friend who lives in Stockholm, as it’s where all his guests choose to stay time and time again. It is located in the hip neighbourhood of Södermalm. The streets of Södermalm are where you can find the most relaxing cafes, trendy bars, and hipster vintage shops. The hotel itself is one of the coolest boutique hotels I’ve ever stayed in. There is a myriad of different room themes and styles, and the breakfast buffet included in your stay is beyond incredible! I almost always opt for eating out of the hotel to experience more local restaurants and cafes, but every morning there was no way I would pass it up!
Although the Gamla Stan (Old Town) is pretty touristy and most businesses shut down after 5 pm, having your room located inside such a picturesque place is a real treat at Christmastime. That said, make sure you splurge on a room with a view. Collector’s Lady Hamilton Hotel is located in a 15th-century building next to the Royal Palace. The Lady Hamilton Hotel has a 13th-century cellar, which is now used as a plunge pool! Throughout the hotel, you’ll find antique furniture, old paintings and crystal chandeliers, which make you feel like you’re staying inside a piece of Stockholm’s history.
Norrmalm is another popular neighbourhood to put your head down as its located in the heart of mainland Stockholm. Norrmalm is probably the most central place to stay to get to everything you’ll want to see. Berns Hotel is one of those luxurious historic hotels that makes you feel like you’re immediately on holiday upon walking in the door! The hotel’s beautiful twinkle light covered exterior looks out over Berzelii Park and the Baltic Sea. The hotel opened in 1863 and has one of the most majestic interiors in the city. They even have an unforgettable holiday experience package at Berns which includes a full Christmas dinner, overnight stay and specialty breakfast. So if you feel like you might be homesick for Christmas, at Berns you’ll never miss a festive beat!
Since most travellers use public transit as their main mode of getting around, I thought it essential to list out any holiday changes to their schedule.
Dec. 23rd: Regular Sunday schedule (trains run from 5:00 am to 3:00 am)
Dec. 24th | Christmas Eve: The metro blue line runs from 6:00 am to 3:00 pm every 10 minutes, the green and red run every 15 minutes. From 3:00 pm to 7:00 pm, it runs every 30 minutes. After 7:00 pm there is no underground service.
Dec. 25th | Christmas Day: After 6:00 am, the system resumes Sunday schedule service.
Dec. 26th: Regular Sunday schedule
Dec. 27th: Resume regular service
During the week of Christmas, many buses are still running but on adjusted schedules. Since there are so many different routes, it’s best to check online in advance for any specific route you are planning on taking. But in general, expect buses to be running on an adjusted schedule, which means longer wait times.
The Christmas market in Skansen’s open-air museum is open Friday, Saturday and Sunday from November 26th until December 19th. So make sure you plan accordingly to ensure you arrive in Stockholm in time to visit the Skansen Christmas Market. If you arrived earlier in the month, you could easily visit this anytime. But if you have your heart set on seeing the Skansen Christmas Market (which I did), I would make this your first stop. While the local markets are great in town, the Skansen Christmas market is the most comprehensive and the largest! uy everything from handicrafts and design to sweets, home-made candles and secret Christmas presents.
If you aren’t interested in Christmas Market, there is no need to rush over here as Skansen is open 365 days a year. But trust me, you won’t regret making this your first stop, as the atmosphere is magical. I would schedule an entire day at Skansen as there is SO MUCH to see and do! Way more than just the Christmas Market. You can visit all the historic buildings and learn about Sweden’s Christmas traditions. My favourite thing to do is end the evening inside the Solliden’s dining room, where you can enjoy a fancy Christmas smorgasbord and buffet. Great way to sample lots of different classic Swedish Christmas dishes.
Located in the heart of Stockholm’s Old Town, Gamla Stan is the Stortorget Julmarknad. The Stortorget Julmarket is Sweden’s oldest Christmas market. This market, while small, carries everything you’d want from a Christmas Market. From cured meat to glogg, crispbread, handmade ornaments, straw Christmas goats, gingerbread, knitting and more!
The market runs from November 19th to December 23rd and is open from 11:00 a.m. to 6 p.m. I find going a few days before Christmas Day feels the most enchanting but not as chaotic and busy as the last day of the market.
After touring the marketplace, spend the rest of the evening walking up and down the historic streets of Gamla Stan. Since Stockholm was spared any destruction during WWII, this old town is one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval quarters. At Christmas time, the storefront and shops along this touristy part of the city are decked out to the nines! Swags of fresh evergreens cover the doorways, Christmas lights glimmer against the icy cobblestones and little pink-faced gnomes in Christmas hats poke their heads out from all corners of the shop windows.
Glögg is the traditional Swedish Christmas drink which all Swedes imbibe come the holiday season. It is sold everywhere, but one of the best ways to enjoy it is outside. It’s the perfect thing to warm up from the cold with! During Christmas-time, the streets are filled with Glögg vendors. Almost every single cafe also sells its own version of the traditional drink. I loved trying one every time it got cold and made a list of my favourite places to get glögg. Create your rating system for a fun little game to play as you wander around the city!
Pepperkakor is the Swedish version of gingerbread and is one of the most iconic baked goods to enjoy at Christmastime. The thin cookies were eaten in Sweden as early as the 1300s. But it wasn’t until the 1800s that it began to be associated with Christmas. You can find these delicious desserts made with gourmet ingredients in specialty cafes, sample traditional homebaked treats in the Christmas markets or buy yourself an entire box inside the charming tins found on every shelf in the grocery store!
Another popular pastry sold during the holidays Saffron buns or lussekatters. These “s” shaped buns are a beautiful golden treat flavoured with saffron and currants. They are called ‘lussekatter‘ or ‘Lucia cats’ as the shape resembles a cat’s tail. These desserts can be found in everything from cafes to convenience or grocery stores.
My favourite Swedish Christmas treats are Kanelbullens or Cinnamon Rolls. They are a very popular thing for Swedes to bake on Christmas morning. They are different from cinnamon buns I’ve had before, with a glossy exterior and big sugar crystals dusted on top! My favourite place to get them is the iconic Vete Katten cafe.
Spread across the city of Stockholm, there are over 40 streets and squares which have been festively decorated for the Holiday season. The stunning decorations are themed around Swedish Christmas traditions and iconography. Everything from moose, deer, mistletoe and stars seems to float around above your head, lighting up the dark days in even darker nights. I have a great guided tour of the city lights to follow-along, which takes you through the city’s best-decorated areas. It’s a fun and festive way to enjoy the streets of Stockholm.
Finish your Christmas lights tour with a visit to the Skeppsbron Waterfront to see the largest ‘real’ Christmas tree in the world. Standing 38 metres high, the Christmas tree on Skeppsbron in Old Town is the world’s biggest. It is covered with approximately 5,000 lights and is topped with a four-metre large star!
The Swedish ‘Julbord‘ or Christmas feast is one of the most important family traditions. Pretty much all Swede have a Julbord on Christmas Eve. I have a whole post all about the Julbord which you can read to find out what to expect! But just because you might not know anyone who might invite you in for a feast doesn’t mean you can’t sample it for yourself. Historic restaurants like Operakällaren have their Julbord menus for both tourists and locals alike to try! It’s a great opportunity to feast on so many uniquely Swedish foods while also dining in one of the most beautiful restaurants in the city.
ArkDes on Skeppsholmen island is the national museum for architecture and design. Every year the museum features one of the most interesting Christmas exhibitions. It hosts a huge Gingerbread House competition where adults, children and professionals alike construct amazing creations all out of gingerbread. Since admission is free, it’s super easy to come in and enjoy simply the exhibition without feeling like you need to spend the whole day inside to justify the admission price.
Walking into the room filled with all the submissions, you are overwhelmed by the sweet, intoxicating smell of Christmas gingerbread. Every year there is a theme for the gingerbread houses, making a yearly visit interesting every time.
If you’re feeling a bit chilly or tired from the cold, one of the best places to warm up is inside Stockholm’s Centralbadet. Centralbadet is a bathhouse located in the centre of Stockholm, yet almost hidden away. This magical place is tucked in off one of the city’s busiest shopping streets inside a large art nouveau building. Although there is nothing specifically Christmassy about this activity, the holiday season and your vacation should be about relaxing! And there is no better place to relax and get a massage than here. You can swim in the Roman pool, soak in the warm thermal baths and sweat out all the stress inside the Nordic saunas! It’s a great way to experience a very Scandinavian way of life.
While you’re out and about, be sure to stop into a convenience store to pick up a bottle of Julmust. Julmust is a fizzy drink that tastes a little bit like root beer. The drink is ONLY available at Christmas, and Swedes go crazy for it as it has become the taste of Christmas. The drink is so popular in December that it regularly outsells Coca-Cola products as soon as it hits the shelves!
One of the best ways to take in the sights of Stockholm’s waterfront is on a boat. And you might be wondering, “a boat in the winter?” And while indeed the weather might be a lot colder than a picturesque summer’s days it’s an experience not to be missed. The boats which run these cruises are set up to provide their visitors with the most comfortable experience even in the winter months. There is something so magical about seeing the (possibly) snow or frost-covered trees and buildings as you glide along the icy waters. To beat the cold they provide huge fur blankets and warm cups of glogg or hot chocolate.
There are buffets onboard many of these cruises, which provide you with another opportunity to sample a Swedish Julbord. The Christmas smorgasbord features classics like reindeer and elk meat, Swedish sausages, crispbread, smoked herring and salmon and cheese. I would recommend taking the early afternoon cruise. This means you have enough time to enjoy a bit of daylight but also admire the beauty of the city at night. The cruise lasts about three hours. Prices are around SEK 795 per person ($90 USD). Check the website for more details.
Every year the windows around the main square in Gamla Stan are home to an extraordinary Christmas tradition; the Live Advent Calendar. Every day until Christmas Eve, a window around the square opens and out pops a live performer. For 15 minutes, a performance is given by either an individual or a group. This would be a reading of a Christmas story, a speech or a song. Check the website for the schedule of when the windows will each be opened.
While you are welcome to visit the Live Advent Calendar any day leading up to December 24th, I decided to visit on Christmas Ever Day. And I found it to be the most lovely occasion. Many locals were there to celebrate the last day of the calendar, and it felt like a very communal celebration. Everyone sang along to the music, and even though it was all in Swedish, I still loved listening. There were speeches thanking the volunteers, so much laughter and I immensely enjoyed the beautiful music. Even though the Christmas market was closed on the 24th, they still opened the Glogg stalls. This way everyone could enjoy a glass of warm glogg while the Christmas celebrations continued.
After hearing the lovely music of the Advent Calendar, head over to the Nordic Museum. The Nordic Museum is one of the only museums still open on the 24th. It stays open to host one of the best Christmas parties in the city open to the public. This is great for families travelling who don’t have anywhere to celebrate at home or for tourists like us! They host a farandole at around noon. This is an open-chain community dance, around the giant Christmas tree in the center of the great hall. You can also meet Tomte, the Swedish Christmas Santa and get one of the best Christmas pictures!
Their restaurant is open, and there you can taste some of the most fabulous Nordic Christmas food. I was so surprised by how good the food was, considering it was set up like a cafeteria. But even the tables where you can eat are decorated for Christmas, and the atmosphere is so enchanting.
The museum has a great exhibition upstairs all about Swedish Traditions. The collection goes through the calendar year and delves into all the different holidays and their origins in both religion and folklore. The best part to visit during this time of year is obviously the Christmas displays. These feature some fantastic pieces of ephemera from Christmases past. It even has a large scale replica of the first Swedish Christmas tree.
Many grocery stores and restaurants are closed on December 25th. While celebrations are taking place on Christmas Eve, Christmas day is meant for rest. As such, the entire city feels like it has gone to sleep. While some restaurants remain open on the 25th, they are few and far between. If you have your mind set on something it’s best to research in advance to see if that place is open. So you might want to plan to do a big grocery shop in advance to get some ingredients for at-home meals and picnic lunches. Plus, this gives you an excuse to wander the Christmas themed aisles of the grocery store. I honestly love visiting grocery stores when travelling. It’s such an excellent opportunity to find local things to eat and drink that are simple and everyday foods.
When shopping for my Christmas Day meals, I bought a small pre-packaged charcuterie board, bread and jam (the jam in Sweden is bonkers amazing), some interesting drinks I’d never seen before, lots of Swedish snacks, and a few sandwiches, pastries and salads. And, of course, a bottle of glogg and a bottle of Yulemust. These are easy to carry around and have on hand throughout in case you don’t find an open restaurant.
Since almost everything is closed on the 25th, I found that it was the perfect day to schedule a few walks to some of the city’s best viewpoints! The highest natural point in central Stockholm is Skinnarviksberget. From this rocky outcrop, you can see all across the city to Kungsholmen, Gamla Stan, the Stockholm City Hall, and more. On the opposite side of the town, Fjällgatan, located on the edge of a cliff, provides a stunning view from the east. Throughout this area of town, you’ll pass well-preserved buildings from the 1700s, making it one of the most historical walks to take as well.
If you are interested in learning more about the Swedish Pop Culture Icons ABBA, you need to pay a visit to the ABBA Museum! It might seem a strange way to spend Christmas Day, but the ABBA museum is one of the few open on Christmas day, and honestly, this place is so much fun; it’s pretty much the perfect place to be to enjoy a spirited afternoon. The ABBA Museum is much more than a museum stuffed with original costumes, gold records, and other memorabilia. With this experience, you can pretend to be on stage with ABBA, record at the Polar Studio, and dress up like the group’s members.
Another popular Christmas Day activity is to go ice skating. The Kungstradgarden ice rink and the Vasaparken ice rink are two of the best places to visit in the city. They are each open from around midday to later into the evening. Skating is free, but if you need skate rentals, there is an extra charge. These rinks are gorgeously lit with festive Christmas lights and even play charming music to enjoy as you glide along.
Finish your evening off by stopping in at a cafe to enjoy on last Fika. Fika in Swedish means “to have a cup of coffee and a snack with a friend.” It’s absolutely built into the fabric of Swedish daily life. They embrace the idea of taking time to better your relationships while enjoying something scrumptious. I found that there were many cafes still open on Christmas Day despite restaurants being closed. This is how important Fika is, it is one of the only things to stay open! So, keep your eyes peeled and you’re bound to find someplace to rest your feet. It is the perfect way to stop, and reflect back on all the memories from your trip. Take out your notebook and jot down your favourite things you did or saw along the way. Trust me, you’ll treasure taking that time to cement those memories!
I hope this little itinerary was helpful, and it provides a general guide to your first Christmas holiday in Stockholm! The schedule is pretty open, so you can plot any other activities you are excited to do while visiting this fantastic city. Many of the popular museums will remain open until around the 22nd or 23rd. So you can easily fit them in as well, but most don’t have any particular exhibition dedicated to Christmas. I would recommend the VASA museum or Swedish History Museum if it’s your first time in the country. But don’t overpack the schedule as the magic of Christmas is one best enjoyed at a relaxed pace. Let me know in the comments if you’ve ever spent a Christmas away from home and where you most enjoyed travelling!
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