Table Of Contents

1. About Sakuraco
2. Hakone's Onsen Culinary Traditions
3. Hakone Sweets
4. Hakone Savouries and Tea

About Sakuraco

Sakuraco is a monthly authentic Japanese snack subscription box that supports local Japanese snack makers. Each box has 20 traditional, authentic, and artisan Japanese snacks, including Japanese teas and special tableware. The treats in each box are authentic, as seen in this month’s collections, which were made in collaboration with the Kanagawa prefectural government.

What sets Sakuraco apart is the authentic snacks you receive and the stories behind them. Each box comes with a beautifully illustrated guide that outlines each item’s origin and ingredients and highlights the cultural significance of the selection. This makes each bite a journey through Japan’s rich culinary landscape.

Hakone’s Onsen Culinary Traditions

Hakone is renowned for its hot springs, known as onsens. Nestled in a volcanic region that gifts it with abundant geothermal activity, Hakone offers a diverse range of onsen experiences. The onsens are scattered throughout the area, from secluded springs in the mountains to grand bathhouses that are part of luxurious ryokan (traditional inns). We participated in both of these experiences while we were in Hakone and found the mineral-rich waters, believed to have healing properties, to be a profoundly relaxing experience that also felt like an immersive Japanese cultural experience. I loved how we received this beautifully illustrated woodcut print of Hakone’s Hayakawa River inside Sakuraco’s Hakone Box. I walked along this river when I visited Hakone and was mesmerized to see how this landscape remains the same even hundreds of years later.

Hakone Sweets

When we booked our private onsen, we were treated to some traditional savouries and sweets to make the experience even more indulgent. If you want to have the same experience, take a hot bath and relax with some of the Hakone treats included in this month’s Sakuraco Japanese Treat Box. The Tsuru no Sato Marshmallow is a soft, fluffy marshmallow treat that charmingly resembles a petite egg yet is filled with a luscious yellow bean paste, offering a subtly sweet flavour. One of the most popular treats in Onsens in Hakone is Onsen Tamagos. These eggs are slow-cooked in the naturally hot waters of the onsen, resulting in a creamy, soft texture. The egg whites are just firm enough, while the yolks remain runny. Therefore, the Tsuru no Sato Marshmallow feels like such a perfect sweet reminiscent of those onsen eggs. 

The perfect accompaniment to your relaxing at-home onsen experience is a Matcha Konjac Warabimochi. Warabimochi is made from bracken starch, giving it a jelly-like texture that is slightly chewy. This dessert is particularly popular during the summer months in Japan due to its refreshing quality. It is also popular in Onsens for the same reason.

Hakone Savouries and Tea

For a savoury addition to your snacking session, the Wasabi Okaki

Minoya Arare are rice crackers coated in bold and addictive flavour, combining savoury soy sauce with a tantalizing hint of wasabi! I love the spicy flavour alongside the sweets, as they feel like the perfect juxtaposition.

The perfect complement to these treats is the Hakone Story Ryokucha, a luxurious green tea revered for its fresh flavour and health benefits. This tea uses authentic, deep-steamed leaves cultivated in the Makinohara Plateau in Shizuoka.

In every box, you’ll also receive a Japanese Home Good, such as ceramics, chopsticks or furoshiki (gift wrap cloths). In this month’s box, we received a Marquetry Plate. Marquetry is a woodworking tradition that originated in Hakone centuries ago. Artisans use various naturally coloured wood pieces to make intricately beautiful geometric designs. The same marquetry woodwork’s meticulous craftsmanship and art are mirrored here on the pltes, which makes the perfect serving platter to hold all your delicious treats.

If you’re as enchanted by Japanese culture and cuisine as I am, Sakuraco offers a delightful taste of Japan. I invite you to discover the joy and tradition of Japanese snacks with me. Check out their offerings, and let’s travel together through each savoury and sweet bite.

For more info on Sakuraco’s Japanese Snacks & Candy Subscription Boxes, head to sakura.co

Happy Culinary Travels, Adventurers!

The post Savouring Hakone: Japanese Snack Box Brings Traditional Snacks to Your Home first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

Sculpture is an art of the open air

Henry Moore

Table Of Contents

1. Access
   • Train
   • Car
   • Bus
2. Hours and Costs
3. History
4. Gallery Guide
   • Hercules, the Archer
   • La Pleureuse
   • Sky Hole
   • Man and Pegasus
   • Curved Space-Diamond Structure
   • High-Performance Design
   • Entering the Forest
   • Bronzes
   • Floating Sculpture 3
   • My Sky Hole
   • Eva
5. Garden of Stars
   • Personnage
   • Woods of Net
   • Wonder Space 2
   • Ossip Zadkine
   • Picasso Building
   • Le Fleur Qui Marche
   • Symphonic Sculpture
   • Interior of the Tower
   • Footbaths
   • Reclining Figure
   • Close
   • Miss Black Power
   • Mother and Child
   • The Hand of God
   • Grande Racconto
   • Space Construction
   • Sphere within Sphere
   • Sixteen Turning Sticks
   • Never-Ending Dialogue
   • Balzac
   • Gift Shop

Access

Train

Travelling on the Tozan Railway from Hakone-Yumoto station will be free if you get the Hakone Free Pass. If you choose not to get the pass, the journey will cost 400 yen ($4 USD). It takes about 30 minutes from Hakone-Yumoto to get to Chokoku No Mori station. Be sure to get a window seat for the journey since the trip is one of the most scenic rides you can have in Japan.

Car

If you are travelling by car, the museum has a large parking lot where you can leave your car while visiting the museum. Google map is a great resource for your journey, but it will end with driving down prefectural road 723 where you’ll find the museum.

Bus

If you’re coming from somewhere in Hakone, not near any of the big train stations, you can take one of the many buses over to the museum. Take the Izu-Hakone Bus to the Ninotaira Iriguchi bus stop. From here, it is only a 5-minute walk to the museum. 

Hours and Costs

The museum is open from 9:00 to 17:00, 365 days a year! Admission is 1600 yen (USD 12) or 1500 yen (USD 11) if you print out this discounted ticket pass. Just print out the discount page and present it at checkout to save 100 yen.

There are a few dozen lockers outside the museum where you can stash your bags if you have any. We had a few heavy knapsacks with us since we hadn’t checked in at our hotel when we arrived at the museum, and storing them here would have been a great way to explore the museum unencumbered. Lockers cost 400 yen and only accept coins.

History

The museum was opened in 1966 to create a space where there could be a “dialogue between nature and art.” The park is over 70,000 square meters, with over 120 works from Japanese artists and international superstars. The pieces in the gardens are select sculptures from the 19th and 20th centuries.

Gallery Guide

After you pay your admission, you’ll descend an escalator into the park’s central area. The moment you step off the escalator, you’ll see the hillside appear in front of you, marked with almost magical-looking sculptures.

Hercules, the Archer

One of the first pieces you’ll see when you descend is Hercules, the Archer by Emile-Antoine Bourdelle. Emile-Antoine Bourdelle worked as an assistant in Rodin’s studio. While many of their styles are similar, the differences are also stark. Rodin followed a strict analytical modelling technique, whereas Bourdelle wanted to modernize sculpture from its original Greek and Roman influences. The energy in this piece is so dynamic. The archer’s arm is taut, and his muscle flex as he pulls at an invisible bowstring.

La Pleureuse

Turning left from the Bourdelle, you’ll come up to the fantastical pool of water where an enormous stone head lies. This is La Pleureuse by Francois Xavier and Claude Lalanne. It was sculpted in 1986 using a huge piece of Italian trani stone. La Pleureuse means “the mourner”. She lives in the water, bright green leaves sprouting from her hair. Get up close to the statue, where you can see a teardrop descending from her cheek into the waters below. She is captivating, and her green hair against the cherry blossoms blooming behind her was a perfect composition.

Sky Hole

Behind Le, Pleureuse is one of the famous Sky Holes by Bukichi Inoue. Inoue has several pieces throughout the gardens. Each one allows the user to explore their surroundings from a different perspective. In this piece near the front, the viewer climbs through this tiny doorway into a black box and walks down the stairs into the earth itself. Once down in the depths of the box, there is a small viewing window in the darkness which allows the light to come through and where you can look outside.

Man and Pegasus

After making your way out of the Sky Hole, walk to the large open square where a tall column reaches the sky. Atop the white column is a black sculpture of a man seemingly leaping off a horse. This is Man and Pegasus by Carl Milles. Milles was a Swedish artist who loved creating daring works that integrated themselves into their environment. In this piece, the Pegasus appears to be falling, and from the height of the column, the fall is far more perilous. The man leaps off the back of the horse, only the toes of his foot still touching the Pegasus. He seems to fly forward, defying the laws of gravity. Placed against the dark forest backdrop, the man appears to fly into the clouds.

Curved Space-Diamond Structure

Walking down the ramp behind the Milles statue, we come up with the giant gemstone installation by Peter Pearce, Curved Space-Diamond Structure. There are signs all over the piece asking children to remove their shoes and that only kids can play inside. That’s right; if you have any little ones with you, they are more than just allowed to touch the piece; they can climb up inside and explore!

High-Performance Design

While adults aren’t allowed to go inside, you can still explore all the different sides of the piece from every angle. Every so often, catching a glimpse of a brightly coloured sweater or dress passing by. The structure itself was based on the shape of a diamond molecule enlarged 8 billion times. Pearce was always fascinated with natural geometries and “High-Performance Design.” Both of these themes perfectly harmonize with the gallery’s concept.

The Space-Diamond is where you can also find one of the only vending machines in the park. Selling hot tea and juice is the perfect thing to grab to warm up or cool down for the remainder of your journey.

Entering the Forest

Walk down the stairs from the Space-Diamond, and you’ll come to a rope bridge which crosses a small pond. On either side of the pond are lushes forests which seem like artworks onto themselves.

Bronzes

Nestled into the corner to the right of the bridge are several bronze statues by Francesco Messina, Yuki Shintani and Carl Milles. These works of art are all of the people and, from afar, look like little nymphs hiding amongst the trees.

Floating Sculpture 3

To the left of the bridge is Floating Sculpture 3 by Marta Pan. The floating sculptures are painted the same vermillion colours as the Tori gates in Japan. The designs move and sway in the water. Pan was inspired by dancers and their balanced movements when creating this work. In the water swim, dozens of koi fishes dance along with the movement of the kinetic sculptures.

My Sky Hole

Exiting the pond, you walk up a gentle incline, gated by another My Sky Hole by Bukichi Inoue. This is a giant glass sphere held by four thin concrete columns. Craning your head upwards towards the sphere, you can see the world reflected back at you.

Eva

Walk north towards the garden of stars, and be sure to pass by the Eva by Francesco Messina. Messina, an Italian sculptor born in 1900, is one of the most critical figurative sculptors of the 20th century. His pieces represent the “ideal woman,” unattainable in life, captured only in his art.

Garden of Stars

Further up the hill, you come upon the Garden of Stars. The Garden of Stars is a giant maze in the shape of multiple inlaid stars. From afar, it looks like nothing more than a flower bed, but on closer inspection, you can see that space between the green grass and flowers is a deep recess where you can explore. Adults can wind their way through the maze, taking time to stop and smell the roses.

Surrounding the maze is a group of statutes by Yoshitatsu Yanagihara. Yoshitatsu Yanagihara was a Japanese sculptor born in 1910. Her work centres around the “spirit of humanistic inquiry into the essence of nature and life”, another good fit for the museum’s theme.

Personnage

To the left of the Garden of Stars, you descend slightly towards Personnage by Joan Miró. Miró was a Spanish artist and one of the most well-known Surrealist sculptors. His work in Personnage explores the idea of art created from poetry. The different shapes and colours plastered onto the forms are like words that create a beautiful poem for him. 

Woods of Net

Behind the Miro is what looks like a meticulous stack of piled wood. Fittingly enough, this piece is called Woods of Net, created by Tezuka Architects. This is one of the only parts in the museum which was created by an architectural team instead of an artist. But without knowing that, you can’t tell the difference, as this piece is overwhelmingly beautiful and transcendent. The structure is made of only strips of timber, without ANY metal! 320 cubic meters of wood was used to create the structure, and over 500 different kinds of wood were used. The technique for the joints inside the pavilion was derived from thousand-year-old Japanese wooden temple designs. When you step inside, the smell of freshly cut wood still permeates the air.

Wonder Space 2

The pavilion was created specifically to hold the works of Canadian artist Toshoiko Horiuchi MacAdam. As you walk through the open gateway, you see the brightly coloured wonder that is Knitted Wonder Space 2. Horiuchi MacAdam went about hand-knitting each piece which hung from the ceiling. Horiuchi MacAdam was inspired by the works of Antoni Gaudi, who also loved incorporating nature’s undulated and curving forms, instead of straight lines and rigid geometry, in his artwork.

The piece took over 650kg of braided nylon, three months to dye, and over a year spent crocheting the textile into nets. The net is meant to symbolize the cradle of a womb. The net rocks and floats in the air like a baby would be carried inside the mother before birth. Children under a certain weight and age can crawl through the net. The net captures the slightest movement of the child and transmits it back to him like a wave. The more children play inside, the more waves you have, connecting the children in these undulating waves. Maybe one day, she will create something stable enough for adults since even the oldest among us yearn to be a child once more.

Ossip Zadkine

Up the hill from the Wood of Nets is a sculpture by Ossip Zadkine, Van Gogh Marchant à Travers Champs. One of Vincent Van Gogh’s paintings inspired the statue, subsequently destroyed during WWII, of the famous artist walking through the countryside in France with his painting equipment. Van Gogh spent much of his painting career portraying the French landscape around him. It is a lovely tribute to Van Gogh, eternally walking in the outdoors he loved so much.

Picasso Building

Across the bridge, at the very top of the art gallery space, is an enormous building with the words “Picasso” written across the front. Inside this oblong pavilion are over 300 paintings, photographs, ceramics and more created by this legendary artist. Each one was donated to the museum by the artist’s daughter and provided an intimate look into the artist’s life outside his most prolific works. My favourite was the stained glass windows he created using gemmail. Gemmail is formed by fusing layers of coloured glass fragments to create a three-dimensional image. I’d never seen this kind of stained glass, which was absolutely stunning.

Le Fleur Qui Marche

Outside the Pavillion is a giant sculpture by Leger, Le Fleur qui Marche. Leger made himself a household name during the cubist period with his inventive and imaginative paintings. After WWII, he began to explore ceramics and art for public squares. Walking Flowers explores the ideas of nature and the human spirit combining into one anthropomorphic form.

Walking east from the pavilion, you walk through a few small landscape areas of the garden, which feature some small pieces of art, but the focus here is more on the beauty of the natural environment. 

Symphonic Sculpture

At the back of the grounds is a modernist cafe where you can buy treats and drinks. They often have seasonal flavours, but prices are steep, as can be expected for gallery cafes. There is also a small souvenir shop where you can purchase different items to commemorate your trip.

Across from the cafe is the most iconic structure in the museum, Symphonic Sculpture by Gabriel Loire. This 18-meter tall circular steel tower is surrounded by brightly coloured stained glass. Once you enter the tower, you ascend a narrow set of winding stairs toward a lookout.

As you walk up the stairs, take time to study the incredible glasswork surrounding you. The stained glass created by Loire is called “slab glass” because it is much thicker than the glass developed in the medieval era. The opaque glass allows for deeper colours, especially when illuminated by bright sunlight. Loire was an impressionist and used glass like Van Gogh used paints to depict the Starry Night, or Monet did with Water Lilies.

Interior of the Tower

From the top of the tower is an incredible view of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park. In the springtime, you can see brightly coloured cherry blossoms colouring the treetops. And in the autumn, a blanket of reds and gold covers the skyline like a warm glow.

Footbaths

Down a small pathway from the tower are the footbaths. These footbaths are filled with warm water from the hot springs. Here you can sit on the edge of a long bench and dip your tired feet into the water. Press the up and down on the stones beneath to help give yourself a bit of a massage. If you didn’t bring a towel and needed to dry off, you could buy a small souvenir towel from the attendant for only 100 yen.

Reclining Figure

As you return to the front of the museum, you’ll pass several figures by Henry Moore. The first is Reclining Figure. Henry Moore found himself possessed by two themes throughout his work; the Mother and Child and the Reclining Figure. The reclining figure symbolized womanhood, life, survival and endurance for Moore.

Close

One of the more amusing pieces is Close by Anthony Gormley. A naked bronze cast of a human spread eagle is embedded into the ground. The grass grows around the piece, and it looks like someone has just leapt off a roof and landed on the ground below. Gormley says his work is “an attempt to materialize the place at the other side of appearance where we all live.”

Miss Black Power

The vibrant Miss Black Power by Niki de Saint Phalle is visible through the trees from many areas of the park because she is so brightly painted and enormous in size. Miss Black Power is an extension of Phalle’s significant themes in her work; the role of women in society and social change.

Mother and Child

Mother and Child: Block Seat, once more by Henry Moore, brings to life his modern reinvention of the everlasting image of the Madonna and Child.

The Hand of God

The Hand of God by Carl Milles was one of the last works this incredible artist ever created. Looking up into the forest, we can see an enormous human hand balancing a naked human form on his thumb and forefinger. The standing man looks to be gazing at the sky like he is watching or listening to something far off in the distance. The is something about this piece being so closely connected to the artist’s death, which makes it all the more poignant. 

Grande Racconto

Grande Racconto by Giuliano Vangi depicts one man’s journey into the future. He is represented twice in the piece. On one side, you see him overcome with anxiety. As you walk around the sculpture, you see trees take shape out of the stone. On the opposite side, you can see the same man bursting forth into the future, free of fear and ready to face a new day. Perhaps with a better connection to the natural world and the peace that can be found there, you can better face the realities of the human world.

Space Construction

This south side of the garden features more interpretive and modern-looking sculptures. Intersecting Space Construction by Ryoji Goto comprises hundreds of tiny human figures. Each one is in a leaping position, connected to the ones above, below and on either side. The sculpture is meant to symbolize the beauty made through the human connection.

Sphere within Sphere

Sphere Within Sphere by Arnaldo Pomodoro is one of the more famous designs in the gallery. There are other spheres he made in multiple locations all over the world. From afar, it looks like a golden orb with cracks, but as you come closer, you can see that the cracks reveal layers of other spheres inside. Like a Russian nesting doll. A world inside a world inside a world. A commentary perhaps on the introspective nature of humans themselves.

Sixteen Turning Sticks

Sixteen Turning Sticks by Takamichi Ito is a piece that relies on movement and encapsulates your attention. In a sea of silence, this one draws your eye in immediately. Inspired by a window display he created in 1960 when he was a designer, Ito said, “When I decorated the show window with a mobile that danced in the wind, many people stopped to look…People gathered in front of the window, both adults and children, genuinely enjoying the movements of the mobile. After that, I was invited to try and create works in the art world too, and after participating in an exhibition of outdoor sculptures and winning a prize, I became active not only in design but also in the pure art world.”

Never-Ending Dialogue

High in the sky spins a bright vermillion-coloured abstracted bird. This is Never-Ending Dialogue by Susumu Shingu. Shing u’s sculptures are kinetic works of geometry which move with the wind and transform from simple shapes into a moving performances.

Balzac

Balzac by Auguste Rodin is one of the last figures to see before making your way to the exit. Rodin is one of the most astounding sculptors of his generation, or any generation. Balzac was created as a memorial to the French novelist Honoré Balzac. When the statue was first unveiled, people were horrified. It not only looked nothing like the writer but had a ghastly expression. Rodin didn’t want it to be a faithful representation of the man himself, so many others had already done that. He wanted it to express the writer’s persona and the deep and sometimes.

Gift Shop

When you are ready to leave, head towards the exit, heading up another escalator leading to the gift shop. There are many cute gifts reflecting many artists and objects seen inside, but to me, there is something far more interesting opposite the Gift Shop.

Japan does love their Gachapon machines. If you’ve never seen or heard of one, Gachapon is a capsule toy machine dispensing random items from a given set. They all cost different amounts, and you’ll often find unique ones in places like this. Here you have 12 machines, each dedicated to art history. Some dispense buttons with images of the various artworks from the museum on them, and others have a famous painting on coasters or even tiny pieces of framed art! My kind of souvenir and something you’d never find outside of Japan!

I will be the first to admit that modern art has never been my favourite thing. But here, in this incredibly serene and astonishing environment, the works of art took on a new life. I was better able to appreciate their beauty and understand the stories they were telling. They seemed to speak to me here, under the cherry blossoms and among the tree. Don’t miss it on your next visit to Hakone!

The post Ultimate Guide to the Hakone Open Air Museum [UPDATED 2023] first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

For many people travelling to Japan, time is short, and you need to pack in as much as you can. Even if you only have time to go to Tokyo, Hakone is easily doable as a day trip from the city. Getting out of town, even for just the day, is such a valuable experience to see another side of this country. I’d recommend spending the night in Hakone if you have the time since seeing it at night and early in the morning when all the day trippers aren’t filling the streets is absolutely incredible. Plus, extending your trip overnight gives you to an opportunity to see sunrise and sunset across Lake Ashinoko.

24 Hours in Hakone

1. Transportation
2. Hakone Free Pass
3. Departing Shinjuku Station
4. Hakone-Yumoto Station
5. Shōtenga
6. Hakone-Tozan Railroad
7. Hakone Open-Air Museum
   • Footbath
8. Gora Station
9. Gyoza Centre
10. Gora Park
11. Lunchtime around Gora Station
12. Cable Car
13. Owakudani
14. Togendai Boat Cruise
15. Hakone Shrine
16. Stay Overnight

Transportation

If you’re departing for Hakone from Tokyo, be sure to travel via Shinjuku Station on the Romancecar or Odakyu‘s limited express train. Despite being named the Romancecar, there is nothing particularly “romantic” about the train itself. But it is a charming, retro model of the old-fashioned trains which would take travellers to and from Hakone decades ago. They wanted to preserve that old world charm. On the train, you’ll see some magnificent views of Japanese scenery as you make your way into Hakone prefecture. The views are perhaps the reason for the name “Romancecar” since they are stunningly emotive and almost dreamy. You’ll pass the Pacific Ocean, the rural countryside, dozens of mountains and even a glimpse of Mount Fuji (if you’re really lucky). The whole journey should take approximately 85 minutes.

Romancecar

There are four different Romancecar trains which run from Shinjuku to Hakone. Each one is a little different and offers up a variety of seating arrangement. All these cars require reservations in advance. You can book your seats up to a month in advance, and if you’re travelling during a busy period, I recommend making sure you reserve as soon as possible. The ticket reservations cost ¥1,190 (USD 12) and there is an additional Limited Express Surcharge of ¥1000 (USD 10) you pay when you board. This surcharge surprised me since I had my printed reservation forms from Odakyu and assumed these were also my tickets. Turns out you have to pay both the reservation charge and the travel surcharge as well. Keep this in mind, so you don’t look as confused as me!

Type of Seating

One of the formats of the trains has two Observation cars which offer up larger windows as well as a skylight so you can better appreciate the scenery. These seats are usually the first ones to be booked up so if you’re hoping to get one be sure to look for the VSE and LSE trains and book fast! The VSE also offers Saloon style seating are 4-person booths, with huge windows and lots of privacy as well as a small table if you want to have a picnic. The only issue here is that you have to buy the entire set of 4-seats in your reservation. Even if you’re just two people, you’ll have to buy all four seats. That being said, we decided to buy it out ourselves on our trip for the experience, and it was totally worth it for just the one-way trip.  

Hakone Free Pass

If you’re looking to save a bit of money but more importantly TIME, be sure to buy the 1-day “The Hakone Free Pass” from the ticket counter in Shinjuku station. This pass costs 5,140 yen for a 2-day adult pass ($51 USD). This also includes your Limited Express surcharge as well as ALL transportation within Hakone. This means all boats, trains, cable cars and ropeways will be covered under the pass. There are also some additional discounts you can receive on food, attractions and more.

Many people have done the math, and even if you do the bare minimum on this route, you will at least save a few dollars. But the real saving comes when you don’t have to line up at every single ticket counter. You might think, “but are there really that many?” The answer is, YES! Once you get through this post, you’ll see what I mean!

Departing Shinjuku Station

We opted for the 7 am train to Hakone. We wanted as much time as possible to explore, and I recommend doing the same. Hakone can get very busy and the earlier you go, the more time you have to enjoy the peace and quiet that comes without the throngs of tourists. Grab yourself some treats at the convenience store before getting on the train to enjoy on your journey. If you don’t have the time or forget, not to worry, there are food carts which come by during your trip, and there is even a small café area where you can get your coffee or tea and snacks on the train.

Hakone-Yumoto Station

After travelling across the stunning Japanese countryside, you will arrive at Hakone-Yumoto Station. This station first opened in 1888, and the historic nature is very apparent upon stepping off the train. Despite only being a few hours outside of Tokyo, this place feels like entering an entirely different century.

Shōtenga

Stretch your legs after getting off the train with a short walk around Shōtengai. Shōtengai is the largest shopping street in Hakone featuring dozens of different souvenir stores and food stalls selling local specialities. Take a moment to walk across the Ajisai Bridge right across from Hakone Station. The iconic bright red looks remarkable against the green tree lined background.

Hakone-Tozan Railroad

After grabbing a few treats, head back to the station to get onto Hakone-Tozan Railroad. The Tozan Railroad is the only mountain railways in Japan, making the journey all the more special. In the summertime, hydrangeas bloom along the train track so close you could almost reach out and pluck the pedals off as the train chugs along. Be sure to get a window seat since the view is extraordinary any time of the year.

Hakone Open-Air Museum

Take the train until you arrive at Chokoku-no Mori station. Here you’ll find the Hakone Open-Air Museum, featuring hundreds of outdoor sculptures set into the natural landscape. The museum opened in 1969 and ever since visitors have adored wandering along the hillside, taking in the breathtaking views of the valley juxtaposed with awe-inspiring pieces of art. There are over one hundred sculptures from artists such as Auguste Rodin, Niki de Saint Phalle, Aristide Maillol and Henry Moore. 

When we visited, I was hesitant to go inside since the price of admission was 1600 yen (USD 16) which seemed a bit steep considering I didn’t know much about the museum going in. But let me tell you, I’m soooo happy we decided to do it. I would have paid double! It is like no other museum I’ve ever visited.

The sculptures are a mix of modern and contemporary with Japanese artists intermingled wth international aritsts. If you have kids, it’s a blast for them as well since many of the exhibits are geared towards children.

Footbath

At the back of the park, there is a large footbath with water from the hot springs where you can rest your feet. If you didn’t bring a towel to dry off, they sell small ones for 100 yen with a cute logo of the museum printed on it. A cheap and cheerful souvenir!

Gora Station

Once you’re finished at the museum, make your way towards Gora Station. You can either go back to the train station you came from and take it one stop or choose to walk along the one road to Gora Station. I recommend the walk since it’s not too long and very peaceful.

Gyoza Centre

If you choose to walk, along the way you’ll pass the Gyoza Center. This establishment has been serving up incredible gyoza for years in their three storey building but in 2018 they suffered a devastating fire which literally turned the entire building to ash. But, as recently as March 2018 they started serving up takeout once more in a makeshift building beside the rubble. Try to give them a visit and support them to help rebuild their new restaurant and enjoy some incredible gyoza while you’re at it.

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Gora Park

If you got the “Free Hakone Pass” you get free entry into Gora park. A great place to sit and rest your feet if you didn’t get a chance to reset at the Hakone Open Air Museum. Without the pass, entry is a steep 600 yen for a walk in the park but if you can get in for free it’s a lovely little place to experience a variety of beautiful flora and fauna.

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Lunchtime around Gora Station

If you’re feeling hungry, stop off at Chunmoto, a small soba noodle shop tucked behind the train tracks. The set meals are slightly more expensive than you’d pay elsewhere, but considering you’re at the top of a mountain, the slightly inflated price seems reasonable. Try the Yama Soba, this comes with grated mountain yam on top of chilled soba noodles. They have the same kind of texture as natto which can take some getting used to, but once you start liking it, it gets addictive. Yama Soba is very specific to Hakone so trying it in this setting is highly recommended.

If you’re looking for something a little more popular, you can try to get a table at Tamura Ginkatsu-tei. This restaurant often has lines out the door during the lunch rush but for a good reason. Their most famous dish is the tofu, egg and pork soup, with sliced ginger to give it an addictive kick!

Gora Station to Sounzan station

Once you’re finished eating, head back to Gora Station to get the cable car up to Sounzan station. Sounzan station is where you’ll transfer once more to the famous Hakone Ropeway up Mount Hakone.

Cable Car

Each vehicle takes up to 18 people up to the top of the mountain and backs down to Lake Ashii with several stops in-between. From the highest point on the cable car, on clear days you have incredible views of Mount Fuji, and to the east, you can even see Tokyo! But, on most days, these are obscured by clouds and fog. That being said, the views even on a cloudy day of the surrounding valley are stunning, and during spring and fall, the colourful foliage looks like a multicoloured mosaic across the hillside.

Owakudani

The first station off the cable car is Owakudani. Owakudani is an enormous volcanic crater in the centre of Mount Hakone. Although the area is still an active volcano zone, the last eruption was over 3000 years ago. Today, you can smell it long before you can see it. This is due to the sulfurous fumes which fill the air. As you start to come up over the mountain in the ropeway, you can see yellowish plumes of smoke billowing over the skyline.

There used to be a hiking trail outside the ropeway station where you could talk to see steam vents and bubbling pools of sulfur but these days the fumes are so strong that the trails have been closed to the public. One of the most popular reasons people get off at this stop is to taste the famous black eggs. These eggs are cooked in the sulfurous water sand eating them is supposed to extend your life by seven years. They taste just like a regular boiled egg and can be purchased for $5 for 5 eggs. It even comes with little salt and pepper packet for favouring! $5 for 7 years of health and happiness?! Seems like a good deal to me!

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Get back onto the cable car and head down to Togendai Station. On the way down you’ll have another chance to see Mount Fuji across the lake. Mount Fuji is known as the “shy mountain” due to the fact that you so rarely can see it! So take it as a good omen if you manage to catch a glimpse.

Togendai Boat Cruise

Togendai station is where you can board the Togendai Boat Cruise across Lake Ashi.  There are two type of tickets, regular class and first class. Regular class comes with your Hakone Free Pass but can be upgraded for an extra 500 yen. I wouldn’t pay the extra money, it’s not a very long trip, and the only advantage is better indoor seating separate from the regular class. It’s a slightly more luxurious section and would only be worth it if the weather was terrible, and you knew you had to spend the entire trip inside.

The boats leave every 20 minutes. If you have some extra time before your boat departs a walk around the lake is highly recommended. There are some cute swan boats beside the station as well which you can rent if you feel like taking a doddle around the lake yourself. The ships themselves are modelled to look like pirate ships. They aren’t historical pirate ships, merely painted to look like them. While there doesn’t seem to be any real rhyme of reason for this, the brightly painted red and green ships with gold trim do stand against the blue waters.

What you See on the Cruise

The cruise takes about 40 minutes and on a good day is the best place to see Lake Ashi, the Red Torii gates of the Hakone Shrine and Mt. Fuji altogether. While sitting up on the deck can get a little cold, they sell hot cups of coffee and tea onboard, the perfect way to get comfy while watching the scenery pass by. I loved sitting up on the deck, the wind blowing in my hair, catching the last few blooming cheery blossom trees popping up in the distance. Most people chose to sit inside but I would recommend braving the cold, wind and rain for such a breathtaking experience.

There are two stops on the cruise; one at Hakone Shrine and the other at Hakone-machi port, just to the south. I recommend getting off at the Shrine port. From here, it’s only a short walk over to the Shrine itself.

Hakone Shrine

The Hakone Shrine is most well know for its torii-gate-on-the-water. And many people don’t make it farther than that. I don’t recommend doing this. Pass through the water torii gate and head up the enormous staircase to the top where the real shrine sits. Walking up the stairs, you’ll pass underneath hundreds of cedar trees over 800 years old. Cedar trees are known to purify the air, therefore, creating a holy atmosphere around the shrine.

At the top of the stairs you’ll reach the shrine. This shrine is dedicated to the deity of love. You’ll see dozens of couples hand-in-hand, praying for the blessing of the gods. Or single people praying that they too may one day find their true love. It’s a legend that drinking the water at the shrine will help bring you luck in your romantic life! When I visited it was pouring rain and I couldn’t help but thinking this was a good sign!

Stay Overnight

After visiting the shrine, it will either be time to catch a bus back to Hakone Station to head back to Shinjuku or find your way to a hotel for an overnight stay. I highly recommend the Hakone Hotel. Located right on the lake, you have one of the best views of Mount Fuji (on a clear day). But on every other day, the iconic scenery of the lakesides is just as atmospheric. Inside the hotel are two onsens. One for men and one for women. They are incredibly beautiful and the perfect way to unwind after a long day on your feet! These onsens you’ll find in almost any hotel in Hakone is a fantastic way to experience the city’s illustrious hot springs for free (with the cost of your hotel).

Picnic Dinner in Hakone

The only downside to an overnight stay in Hakone is many of the restaurants which serve tourists all day are closed for dinner. This is because most people who visit Hakone are day trippers and the restaurants can’t stay open for only a few people. This means that your hotel is often your only choice for meals. While many of these hotels have incredible menus, they are usually pretty expensive. We opted for a 7-Eleven feast! The local 7-Eleven was only a short walk down the road, and from there we picked up a little bit of everything. Only in Japan would a meal from a convenience store look like an absolutely gourmet spread! 

We booked a Lake View room in our hotel and set up our dinner in front of the window, all the while watching the falling rain on the lake. It was incredible. Even with the raindrops on the water, the lake looked completely still. Peaceful and serene. Even if your hotel doesn’t have any great views, make yourself a picnic and find somewhere along the waters edge to enjoy the scenery. Hakone is truly a wondrous city onto itself and although a chance viewing of Mount Fuji would be the icing on top of the cake, there are so many more amazing things to see and learn, you won’t be disappointed even if you don’t see it! 

The post The Ultimate 24-Hour Guide to Hakone Japan first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.