Cathedral - The Creative Adventurer

The Ultimate Self Guided Tour of the Barcelona Cathedral

The Creative Adventurer — Thu, 14 May 2020 13:00:51 +0000

The Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia (long name, I know) feels like it often plays second fiddle to Barcelona’s most famous church, Gaudi’s masterpiece La Sagrada Familia. But the Barcelona Cathedral is truly a treasure unto itself and worth exploring in its entirety. While La Sagrada is a modernist miracle, the Barcelona Cathedral is a gothic gem. Although there are many similarities between the two once you really investigate them both. Gaudi himself was inspired by this historic church upon designing La Sagrada. Gaudi would have come here as a youngster and looked up at the soaring gargoyles, angels and pinnacles in childlike awe. That same awe-inspiring feeling is still there today! So head inside and see everything there is to explore!

Hours and Access

The church is located in the Pla de la Seu, right in the centre of the Gothic Quarter. To get there you can take the Metro to ‘Jaume I Station‘ on line 4. It is also easily accessible on foot if you’re already in this area of town.

The Cathedral’s opening hours for visitors are as follows:
Monday to Friday: 8 am-12:30 pm and 5:45 pm-7:30 pm.
Saturdays: 8:30 am-12:30 pm. and from 5:15 pm – 8 pm.
Sundays and Holidays: 2:00 pm – 5:30 pm

During the rest of the time, the Cathedral is dedicated to religious worship only. Although you are more than welcome to attend, no photography is permitted during this time. You are expected to simply spend this time in respectful prayer. While there are no days when the building is officially closed if you’re visiting during a holiday its best to check their website schedule for updated visiting hours.

Admission

While entry into the Cathedral is free there are certain areas that require admission. The main nave of the cathedral and the cloisters are both accessible without a ticket. Entry into the Choir costs €3, the Terraces and lift cost €3. Alternatively, you can get these two tickets PLUS entries into the chapel and Sala Capitular museum for €7. The later is the best deal. The view from the rooftop terraces is amazing so I’d recommend it. Be warned the terrace closes 30 minutes before the rest of the church. Don’t forget about this especially if you’ve already purchased your ticket. Unless you’re visiting during the absolute peak of tourist season, you can easily buy your tickets upon arrival inside.

Tips

I visited the Cathedral twice on my first visit to Barcelona. Despite not having an issue buying a ticket, I did find that when I visited in the afternoon the cathedral was quite busy. Since it was so crowded so I returned the next day in the early morning just as it opened. This time of day is really magical. The sun rises just behind the Cathedral and the usually packed square in front of the church is full of nothing except the sound of your footsteps.

Be sure you have adequate clothing for entry which requires a modest attire; arms and legs must be covered up and no hats. I always bring a little scarf I use to cover my arms if I’m wearing a strappy top. I also carry a pair of leggings in my backpack. This is a great trick for days when it’s too hot to wear pants but you need your legs to be covered.

History

The church is dedicated to Saint Eulalia, the patron saint of Barcelona. Eulalia was a beautiful young woman who once lived in Barcelona. One day, she was attacked by a group of Roman soldiers in the square. She was persecuted for her religious beliefs and stripped naked in front of a horde of people. She was ashamed but in the middle of the summer, it began to snow, covering her naked form.

Unfortunately, this only enraged the Roman soldiers and they threw her in a barrel. They proceeded to stab the barrel with knives and rolled her down the street until she was dead. Today, that same street is also named after her as well. Her sad but powerful story is one which stuck with the people of Barcelona. This church was built in her name, “Baixada de Santa Eulàlia“. Her body was saved by her fellow Christians and is now entombed inside the Cathedral. Very poetic.

First Romanesque Church

The very first romanesque church was built here in 1058. Over the years it fell into ruins. During the Gothic period, the old church was destroyed and w new one built on its foundations. Construction began for the Cathedral of Barcelona in 1298 but wasn’t completed until 1420! That’s over 100 years! The cloisters were the last part of the church to be finished, completed in 1448. In the 19th century, a neo-gothic facade was added. It was designed with the same beautiful gothic elements of the rest of the cathedral so it seamlessly blends in. It’s so rare to find a cathedral this old which hasn’t had multiple renovations and restorations. The fact that most of the church contains art and architecture from the 15th century is such a treat to behold.

The Facade

Looking at this ornate facade, simply dripping in decorations, it’s hard to imagine that it once was nothing more than a plain exterior. Most Catalan churches built at the time featured a flat, nondescription facade. This neo-gothic marvel was built years after the initial construction of the church in the 19th century. It was designed by architect José Oriol Mestres. Mestres wasn’t an immensely popular architect, with only a few other buildings in his repertoire. Perhaps the Cathedral was his greatest accomplishment and once it was completed nothing could compare.

The stained glass windows you can see inside the towers were taken from the Renaissance exterior. The stained glass located on the lower portion of the facade are more modern interpretations. The tracery windows are some of the most ornate examples of neo-gothic design and seem to weave together like ivy or branches or a tree. The rose window, which is typical of other neo-gothic buildings, is here portrayed in a different fashion than most. Instead of a circular rose, with inside petals, the rose window here is designed without the outer portion. The petals of the rose each feature a quarterfoil symbol which spills out above the top of the rose window. This is more of the unique aspects of the neo-gothic design.

Entry Doors

One of my favourite parts of the church is the neo-gothic archivolt above the church’s entry doors. An archivolt is an ornamental band that follows the curve of the underside of an arch. Upon this archivolt are carved, 100 angels flying above your head! In the centre of the two, large wooden entrance doors is a stone sculpture of Jesus, flanked on either side by statues of the 12 apostles. 75 figures in total adorned the exterior of the facade, featuring more saints, kings and famous prophets. While the sculptures of the people are stern and noble, there are also various playful gargoyles and mythical animals which also decorated the stone walls.

Towers

The cathedral is home to three towers, two side towers and a large central cimborio. A cimborio is a classical element of Catalan architecture which is a raised dome or a cupola that acts as a lantern over the crossing of a Gothic cathedral. This cimborio is what allows natural light flood the otherwise darkened interior. A bright interior is one of the most important parts of a Gothic cathedral so the cimborio is a clutch element. The cimborio is crowned by the copper statue of Saint Helena. The family from Girona, who financed most of the cathedral’s construction in the 19th century, were devotees of Saint Helena. The family wanted to be able to see their patron saint at all times, high above the rest of the buildings in Barcelona.

The two side tower, located over the Doors of Saint Ivoand and the Cloisters, were added in the 19th century. Each tower is adorned with two lateral pinnacles. Every inch of these towers is embellished! Leaves curls around the edges, gargoyles pop out from every corner and angel play musical instruments, a choir over the top of the city.

Doors of Saint Ivo

Before heading right into the church, walk over to the Plaça Sant Iu, on the northern side of the Cathedral. Here, on the steps of the entrance to the Museu Frederic Marès, you can study the ancient Doors of Saint Ivo. This was the primary entrance in the cathedral for over 500 years, located right under the northern bell tower. The doors are named “Saint Ivo” because, in the 15th century, Saint Ivo was the patron saint of Lawyers. Lawyers were one of the main contributors to the cathedral’s construction and as such they demanded their patron saint be honoured.

The doors were built from marble which had been brought all the way from the precious Montjuïc mountains, close to Barcelona. They were built in 1298 and have stood here untouched ever since. On either side of the columns which flank the doors are carvings of knights fighting mythical beasts. These capitals were rescued from the ruins of the ancient Romanesque cathedral. Once they were uncovered the architecture knew they needed to be incorporated in the cathedral somehow. Below these capitals is a large inscription, surrounded in floral carvings. This inscription bears the date of May 1st, 1298, the day work began on the construction of the gothic cathedral.

Interior

The interior of the cathedral features the gothic design of a unified apse system. The two side aisle and central nave are all connected together but the aisles are distinguished from the nave by having a distinctly lower ceiling. The side naves and ambulator feature monuments and chapels dedicated to over 140 different saints! While we won’t go into all of them here I did try my best to highlight the most important ones.

Entry into the Nave

Upon entering the nave through main front doors, you’ll step directly into the grand nave of the church. You’ll be struck immediately by the warm yellow light which sets the interior all aglow. Most of the blackened parts of the decor are not from age but from hundreds of years of candle soot. Take a seat in one of the pews in front of the choir and look up at the ceiling. Along the vaults of the cathedral are 215 beautifully carved keystones which date back the 14th and 15th century. These once were covered in colours polychrome but after years of deterioration, they are now just plain carved stones.

Right above this area of the nave, we can see the keystone of Saint Martha. Other famous keystones to look out for are Jesus being crucified between the Virgin and Saint John, with the symbols of the sun and the moon. See if you can spot Saint Eulalia with the coat of arms of Blanca of Naples, covered in Fleur-de-lis. Our Lady of Mercy is seen using her cape to shelter a pope. There is a king, a cardinal, a bishop and a canon on one side, and a queen, a nun and three other feminine figure on the other side along with the Annunciation of the Virgin with the Archangel Saint Gabriel. And finally, the eternal father surrounded by angels.

Stained-glass windows

The Cathedral has many Gothic and modern stained-glass windows. The central panels depict the image of the central characters to which the piece is dedicated. The side panels feature richly coloured geometric designs, coats of arms of royal families, trefoil and quatrefoils, and sometimes even architectural features that bring a meta element to the design.

Bishop Ponç de Gualba & Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia,

The stained glass windows throughout the cathedral are from various periods in the building’s history. The earliest ones date from the 14th century and bear the coat of arms of Bishop Ponç de Gualba. These windows depict the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia, Saint Sylvester, Saint Peter and Saint Stephen. Later in the 1400s we see stained glass windows dedicated to Saint Andrew with the coats of arms of Bishop Armengol. The most impressive of the windows, located in the bapistery chapel, was made by artisan Gil de Fontanet in 1495 and depict the Saint Michael archangel and Noli me tangere. The most recent stained glass windows, found on the facade are all from the 19th and 20the century.

It’s amazing to see that even some of the windows which are hundreds of years old, still explode with colour! This cathedral wasn’t about steering away from loud, and expressive designs. Instead it wanted to make its visitors feel powerful emotions upon stepping into this haven of light.

Chapel of the Holy Sacrament and of the Holy Christ of Lepanto

Just to the right as you enter, you’ll find a darkened chapel. At the back of the room is a golden arch, which seems radiate with light as it is the only real light source in the room. This is the chapel of the Holy Sacrament and of the Holy Christ of Lepanto. In the centre of the chapel is a beautiful, black wooden sculpture of Jesus Christ on the cross. Look closely and you might notice that Jesus almost looks like he is leaning to one side. This is because of a very famous legend from Barcelona which took place during the battle of Lepanto, in October 1571.

The Christian states of Europe all worked together in this battle to defend their land against the invading Ottoman empire. At the time, it was not only the largest naval battle in history but also the bloodiest. In just a few hours over 50,000 soldiers lost their lives. The legend goes that the crucifix we see here today was mounted upon one of the ships. As a means of protection for the soldiers. During the battle, a large cannonball shot towards the boat which carried the crucified. The soldiers claim they saw the statue, which was right in the line of fire, dodge the oncoming canon ball. This is why we still see him in this position today, in mid dodge. It’s said that the defending Habsburgs army saw this as a good omen and it was part of what propelled them to victory.

Saint Olegarius

Also located in this chapel, although only partially visible, is the tomb of Saint Olegarius. Saint Olegarius, served as bishop of Barcelona in 1116. Saint Olegarius’s body is actually one of the few saints body’s to be incorrupt. Incorruptibility is a belief that by some divine intervention a human body avoids the normal process of decomposition after death as a sign of the body’s holiness. Inside Saint Olegarius’ tomb, his corpse is still dressed in the regal bishop’s robes he wore in life. Every year, on March 6th, the tomb is opened up and visitors can gaze down into the glass casket and see the unchanged body for themselves.

Saint Chapels

There are over 28 chapels flanking the cathedral’s nave. You can find a list of all the saint chapels here if you’re looking to prayer at one in particular. Each one of the chapels is dripped in golden leaf decorations, magnificent paintings which tell stories of the saint’s life, and powerful sculptures which look out at you from the gates which separate from the holy from the mortal realm.

Chapel of Baptism & Font

Against the wall where the entry doors are located is the Chapel of Baptism. Here you’ll discover the huge marble baptismal font which has been used inside this cathedral since 1433. Behind the font is a small relief carved into the marble altarpiece of Jesus Baptising one of his disciples.

Saint Severus Chapel

To the left of the pews in the back of the nave, you’ll find the chapel of Saint Severus. If you’re a Harry Potter fan like me, your ears will perk up upon hearing this name, as I had never heard it before those books, but it turns out, it’s a fairly old name. Saint Severus was once the bishop of Barcelona but was murdered for his beliefs in 304. Romans soldiers captured him and tortured him into renouncing his Christianity. When he refused for the final time, he was sentenced to death.

The soldiers hammered nails into his head and yet he would not die. When fellow Christians heard of his persecution they came to his aid but unfortunately, were too late. As they took him down, he died in their arms. In1405, his relics, which were previously housed in Sant Cugat, were moved to Barcelona. It was rumoured that these relics helped cure King Martin I of gangrene in his leg! You can see a depiction this event in the top right corner.

Choirstalls

In front of the first set of pews in the nave is the choirstalls. Guarding the entrance to the stall is a great stone wall with stunning carved reliefs. The depictions on the relief tell the story of Saint Eulalia and her eventual death. In between these extremely gruesome and powerful carvings are niches with statues of Catalan saints.

Order of the Golden Fleece

The interior of the choir stall is dedicated to the knights of the Order of the Golden Fleece. The order was founded to defend the Roman Catholic religion and to uphold the usages of chivalry. The order settled disputes, crimes and the actions of the knights of the order. If a knight was thought to have committed an offence or rebelled, they were brought to trial among their peers and not to the public justice.

The choirstall’s design is thought to be the finest example of Gothic Catalan architecture. To study the ornate canopies and pinnacles, walk around the exterior of the choir before heading inside. The walls surrounding the choir are decorated in Doric columns and crowned with an ornate balustrade.

Knights of the Order of the Golden Fleece

During the first few years of the Order of the Golden Fleece there were only 20 knights but as the years went on it expanded to over 60 members. Today you can find the coats-of-arms of the knights painted onto the various seat backs inside the choirstall. Most of these were painted in the 16th century although the older looking ones were made as far back as the 14th and 15th centuries. Even each of the chairs themselves has these gorgeous little carvings of animals and minature statues on the seats. No aspect of the choirstalls was left unembellished. Inside the choir, you’ll find a wonderfully carved wooden pulpit made by Pedro Çanglada in 1403.

Chapel of Raymond of Pennafort

On the South wall, opposite the choir stalls, you’ll find the Chapel of Raymond of Pennafort. Raymond, a strange name for a saint, is the patron saint of Catalan lawyers. One of the best parts of visiting this cathedral is learning all about the Catalan saints you won’t hear about anywhere else in the world! Raymond studied law at the University of Bologna and was one of the chief advisors to the Pope and King James I of Catalonia and Aragon. One of his miracles was said to be sailing from Sóller to Barcelona on nothing but a simple blanket!

Saint Pacian Chapel

Continuing along the south wall, you’ll come to the Chapel of Saint Pacian. Saint Pacian was bishop of Barcelona during the second half of the 4th century. He is highly regarded as one of the founding father’s of the church in Barcelona. The altarpiece inside the chapel is a baroque masterpiece made by sculptor Joan Roig from 1688. It depicts various scenes from the life of Saint Pacian and Saint Ignatius of Loyola.

The Organ

The fantastically carved organ, which hangs above the doors of Saint Ivo is truly the definition of “heavenly”. Built in 1539, the organ is designed in high baroque style. Cherubs top the pipes and Saints faces reveal themselves from the flat wooden facade.

Crypt of Saint Eulalia

Below the high alter, a set of stairs descends into the ground where you’re met with a pair of iron gates. Behind these gates, you can see a large stone tomb topped with a beautiful statue of a young woman. This is the crypt of Saint Eulalia. Her sarcophagus is adorned in gothic, polychromed alabaster and inside rest her remains. The carvings around the tomb depict the story of her martyrdom after leaving her home of Sarria at the age of 13. The scenes of her martyrdom are quite affecting and powerful, and not for the faint of heart. They show her being whipped by soldiers, and how they used a hook to tear the flesh off her body when she was nailed to the cross. Pretty gruesome, lucky you can’t see it up close really.

The carvings also show how her remains were moved to the cathedral from the Basilica of Santa María. Above the tomb, in the centre of the room, we have a statue of the Virgin Mary. On either side of her are four angels holding candles sticks. This tomb is a new incarnation from the 13th century but right behind it you can still see a piece of brokem marble from the original one. This tomb was made in 878!

High Altar

Above the tomb of Eulalia, we have the High Altar. The Altar is made of pure white marble and measures over three feet long. Above the altar hangs a grand crucifix, held up by six triumphant angels.

Ambulatory

At the east end of the cathedral, we find the ambulatory with its nine radiating chapels. These chapels are located behind high altar, raised above the crypt of Saint Eulalia below. The nine chapels located in the ambulatory are crowned with tall, glowing stained glass windows. This allows for the most heavenly, colourful light to pour over the high altar.

Rooftop

To access the roof, head towards the tower on the northern side of the cathedral. From here you take a lift to the top (you need a paid ticket) where you have a 360-degree view of the city.

The rooftop gets you up close to the various gargoyles and mythical stone creatures who call the roof their home. If you’re here anytime during the lunch hour you might have the chance to hear the bells ring. While you can hear these bells all over the city there is something so overwhelmingly awesome about hearing them so close.

Cloisters

To access the cloisters, you pass under a large white marble door. This is said to be a recovered piece from the original Romanesque cathedral built on the site in 1046. The archivolts here are decorated with geometric patterns but framed in gothic pediments.

The reliefs sculpted into the pillars of the Cloister’s arches show scenes from the Old Testament and from a legend about the Holy Cross. The keystones set into the vault depict scenes from the New Testament.

Each out of outdoor chapels here was initially dedicated to the patron saint of an institution or guild. They were built here under the protection of a specific family. Look on the floors and you can see markings of these guilds. the one below depicts a pair of scissors to represents the cloth merchants guild.

Ou com Balla

In the center of the Cloister is a garden with palm trees, magnolias, an orange tree and a fountain dating from the mid-15th century. The traditional “ou com balla” (the dancing egg) takes place right here each year for the celebration of Corpus Christi. The dancing egg was a trick the church’s acolytes would play where they would empty an egg of its insiders, then fill it with wax and seal the small hole. They could then place the egg atop the fountain’s jet and the egg would start turning without falling, and thus “dances.”

Outside along the walls of the cloister are also several tombs embedded into the walls of the cathedral. These are of important people in the history of Barcelona such as the bronze tomb of Antoni Tallander, the royal jester, as identified by the bels that hang from his belt. There is also the tomb of the Sanllehy family which is marked by the scenes of the burial of Christ.

Geese

In the stone confines of the cloister you might be surprised to find 13 white geese wandering around like they own the place. There are always only 13 geese, one for each of the year’s Saint Eulalia lived. They provide a sunny addition to the otherwise silent cathedral.

Capella de Santa Llúcia

At the Southwest corner of the Closters we find the quiant Romanesque chapel, built in 1257, dedicated to Santa Llúcia. Santa Llúcia is the patron saint of the blind and on December 13th, her saint’s day, you’ll see large numbers of blind people who come to pray at her chapel. Inside the chapel, you can see two ornate sepulchres containing the remains of Bishop Arnau of Gurb (from the 13th century) and Canon Francesc of Santa Coloma (from the 14th century).

This brings us to the end of the tour. Hopefully, you enjoyed exploring it as much as me and learned a little something about Catalan history along the way! Let me know what your favourite part of the Cathedral was or anything else you learned about this amazing place along the way!

The post The Ultimate Self Guided Tour of the Barcelona Cathedral first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

A Historic Self-Guided Walking Tour of Vienna

The Creative Adventurer — Mon, 30 Apr 2018 13:04:16 +0000

Vienna is the capital and largest city in Austria, and as of 2001, the entire town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has been named the “City of Music” or the “The City of Dreams” and for good reason. Vienna is home to some of the most interesting architectural masterpieces in Europe. While Vienna might be a big, bustling city, its historic centre is rather small and easily explorable by foot – the best way to get in touch with the feeling of this remarkable city. Modern buildings intertwine with gothic gems. While some historic towns feel like they are trapped in the past, this city embraces antiquity but still feels a part of the modern world.

Map of Walking Tour

Vienna State Opera House

Start your tour at the Vienna State Opera House. In the City of Music, there is no better place to start than the Opera. The Opera House opened in 1863 and since then has been home to some of the most world-renowned artists, musicians and directors. Every year there are over 350 performances from over 60 different operas and ballets.

The facade of the Opera House hasn’t changed since 1869. Neo-Renaissance style arches and a huge veranda pops out onto the Ring Road and offers the public the chance to use the building as shelter from the rain or even just a shady pathway throughout the year. This integration of the building into the daily lives of people in Vienna also cemented its prominence as a piece of architecture in the hearts of its residences.

Harmony and Poetry

The bronze statues which top the building represent Erato’s two winged horses named Harmony and Poetry. Above each of the arches along the outside are five statues representing heroism, tragedy, fantasy, comedy, and love. There are also two iconic fountains on their side of the opera house which depict the two worlds which music can create; one representing dance, joy, and levity, and the other seduction, sorrow, love, and revenge.

Deep in the bones of this building, you will find veins of Vienna’s past. The arts were such a huge building block of Vienna’s culture. It was here that Mozart wrote the famous opera The Marriage of Figaro. The city was home to many great composers of the classical music era, during the early 19th century, such as Joseph Haydn and Ludwig van Beethoven.

You can get a behind the scenes tour which will take you backstage with a guide who will tell you all about the history of the opera house. If you’d rather watch a performance, tickets range anywhere from 8€-130€, but if you wanted to save money, you can purchase day-of standing room only tickets for as little as 2€.

Café Sacher Wien

Café Sacher is a legendary restaurant. Located inside the Sacher Hotel, the cafe has stood in the same spot, serving the people of Vienna for over a century. Stepping inside the large entry doors, you are welcomed into a stunning Marie Antoinette-inspired dollhouse. Deep red painted walls are accented with bright white linens and sparkling golden chandeliers. The crown moulding is covered in gold leaf and acts like icing on top of a cake.

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Cafe Sacher is famed for their invention of the Sachertorte, made in 1837 for the presiding Viennese prince. There is no better place in the world to sample this uniquely Viennese treat. The Sachertorte is made by combining two layers of airy chocolate cake, separated by apricot jam, coated with chocolate ganache and topped off with whipped cream. The cake itself is quite dry, so the whipped cream and a cup of warm coffee or tea is the best combination to enjoy the dessert to its fullest.

Albertinaplatz

Down the street from Cafe Sacher is Albertinaplatz or Albertina Square. Albertinaplatz is met on six sides by six different roads, making it a favourite meeting destination for the people of Vienna. From the square, you can see or visit the Albertina Art Museum, St. Augustin Church or the Austrian Film Museum.

In the centre of the square are various powerful statues and monuments. Before 1945, wealthy apartment blocks covered this square. But during WWII they were all subsequently destroyed in an air-raid. The numbers of deaths could never be verified, and the bodies could not be recovered from the rubble.All the statues now standing here, use stones similar to the ones pulled from the wreckage. Standing amongst the statues, almost beneath them, you can imagine how much carnage huge falling piece of stone would have caused.

The Gates of Violence

The Gates of Violence stand in the centre of the square and are the most imposing piece. They are made from the same material which was used to create stairs inside many of the infamous WWII death camps. The great stone is split in half, a powerful image symbolic of how war can break apart even the strongest things in this world. Embedded in the stones are images of war, gas masks, men and women caught in their moment of death, medical experiments, chained victims and weapons of war. It is a stirring and honest depiction of the horrors of war.

Orpheus Enters Hades

Another piece of sandstone displays a muscular man with his head buried in the stone. This piece is called Orpheus Enters Hades. It is meant to remind all those who pass by that ignorance leaves you as guilty as the rest.

A bronze statue lays almost flat on the ground. It is the image of a jew covered in barbed wire. A reminder of the degradation and humiliation that the Jews suffered in Vienna even before WWII. A weak arm is outstretched towards you, asking for help and one only wishes you could tear the copper wries from his body to set him free.

The Stone of the Republic

The Stone of the Republic is a replica of the 1945 declaration that established Austria’s second republic and helped protect the human rights of all its citizens. It is the best piece to finish on as it is a hopeful message to end with. Although these statues are very emotional to view, I think they are very important to see as we need to understand the entirety of Vienna history; the good, the bad and the ugly.

Kärntner Straße

Kärntner Straße or Carinthian Street is the most iconic shopping street in Vienna, frequented by so many people that it has been turned into a pedestrian-only zone. People can walk up and down the street from Karlsplatz to Stephansplatz without fear of running into traffic. The pedestrian zone creates this gorgeously open space. Even when hundreds of people are out and about it feels relaxed and unemcumbered.

Kaisergruft

The Kaisergruft, inside the Capuchin Church and Monastery, is home to the Viennese Imperial Crypts. Since 1618, the deceased members of the House of Habsburg have been buried here in ornate urns and opulent metal sarcophagi. While it might seem a bit macabre to explore the tombs, the resting places of the kings and queens of Vienna are more like a work of art than a graveyard.

Metal Sarcophagi

107 metal sarcophagi lay beneath the church, along with five heart urns. The more significant the person laid inside the more magnificent the tombstones. The prominent members of the royal family’s tombs are made of pure bronze while some of the more lowly members are made of cheaper, tin alloy, coated with shellac to appear to be bronze. In the 19th century, some of the tombs were even cast in silver and covered in gold plating for an even more expensive appearance. The study of metalwork throughout the ages is on display here just as much as the dead who lie beneath their masterpieces.

When the bodies were buried, most of their organs were removed since the tombs would be free-standing and this would result in excessive putrification of the organs in the basement of the church. The heart was often saved and placed in an individual silver urn atop or beside the tomb. Most of these urns were sent elsewhere, perhaps to stay with the family while their bodies lay to rest here.

Sarcophagus of Empress Maria Theresia

The most incredible piece is the Sarcophagus of Empress Maria Theresia and Emperor Franz I Stephan designed by Balthasar Ferdinand Moll. This extravagant double sarcophagus in Rococo style featured the pair, as they would have appeared in life, lying on top of the lid, as if awakened from their slumber. They stare at each other, and their features are so lifelike one is almost skittish as you walk by. Their tombs, like many others, features scenes of critical moments in their lives surrounding the perimeter. The shrouded figures represent the grieving states which they ruled over in their time: Holy Roman Empire, Hungary, Bohemia and Jerusalem. They now rest at peace underneath a domed fresco, heavenly pink and blue painted clouds floating eternally overhead.

Neuer Markt

While it might be called the New Market this square is anything but new. It was first established as the primary market in Vienna in 1234 when the old Hohe Markt was no longer large enough for the needs of this growing medieval city. In the centre of the square stands the Thunder Well. The Thunder Well was created in 1739 by artistic Georg Raphael Donner. The bronze statues which surround the fountain are copies of original sculptures which are now housed in the Austrian Gallery Belvedere.

Surrounding the square are several pastel coloured architectural masterpieces. #10-11 is where you’ll find a house which once was home to a traditional delicatessen. It was built by Arnold Heymann in the Old German Renaissance style. Today you can visit the new owners who still run a delicatessen business out of the storefront.

Mayseder house

Further down the street, you can find the Mayseder house at #15. This is the oldest house on the square, built in 1548, and now is home to a fancy jewellery shop.

Haas Haus

In sharp contrast to the houses along the New Market, the Haas House is a postmodern dream of architect Hans Hollein built in 1990. Today it is part retail and part restaurant so if you wish to dine inside you have the chance to eat within an architectural star.

St. Stephen’s Cathedral

Without a doubt, the most visited building in Vienna is St. Stephen’s Cathedral. The original church was built here in 1137, but after being ravaged by fire, a new church was constructed atop its literal ashes. The current incarnation is a mixture of Romanesque and Gothic influences built in the 14th century.

The most impressive and unique feature of the church is the brightly coloured tile roof. Over 230,000 ceramic tiles create the stunning rooftop mosaic of the imperial double-headed eagle. The double-headed eagle is the symbol of the Habsburg Monarchy who ruled over Vienna for centuries. A double-headed eagle in Rome symbolized you weren’t merely an imperial ruler but a divine one, blessed by the Pope.

St. Stephen’s Roof

The iconic roof was the only part of the church to be damaged during WWII. Although there were official orders to fire upon the church until all that was left was rubble, those orders were dismissed. Perhaps the sheer power the church commanded caused those who would destroy it to betray their orders. During the Soviet occupation of Vienna, fires were set in the shops opposite the cathedral and, unfortunately, they spread and set fire to the church roof. Tiles crashed to the floor, but due to the dutiful efforts of their clergy who piled protective bricks atop their precious statues and monuments inside, nothing was too severely damaged before they could put out the fires.

The church’s tower overlooks over the entire city, watching over it like a dutiful guard. The tower is named Steffl and stands a staggering 136 meters high and is home to one of Europe most massive bells, which is etched with the face of the mother of god. It is a legend that when Beethoven was a child, he first became aware of his deafness when he stared up at the tower and saw the birds flying away as the bell began to ring but Beethoven himself couldn’t hear a thing.

Riesentor

The Giant Gate or Riesentor is your entry into the Cathedral. This gateway was part of the original Romanesque church, built in 1223, which was subsequently burned down. The name for the gate came from the discovery of a mastodon bone found beneath the church discovered in the 14th century. Before modern science, people believed that giants roamed Europe and that these mastodon and dinosaur bones were remanents of that great race.

Entry into St. Stephen’s Church

Although you can view the church from the square surrounding it, you must make the effort of going inside to visit. When you first enter there is an area which is free. To go further inside the nave will cost you, but the price is so minimal and more than worth it. Many day-tripping tourists will walk inside, snap a picture and walk right back out. The entry is so crowded but once you pay your €5,50 (Child: €2,00) the crowds disperse and all that is left is the immense beauty of the overwhelming columns, sparkling stained glass and monumental paintings.

As you walk through the church take a moment to study the gothic columns. Each one of them is home to a beautifully carved saint under ornate canopies. At the base of each column is a cluster of a richly pigmented paintings. The magnificent stone pulpit, created by Niclaes Gerhaert van Leydenm, is a gothic masterpiece, which encircles one of the support columns like a stone tentacle.

There are six chapels is total which are on either side of the nave. Each one dedicated to a different saint; Saint Barbara, Saint Catherine, the Chapel of the Cross, Saint Eligius, Saint Bartholomew, and Saint Valentine.

If you are feeling up to it, and I suggest you muster all your energy, take the time to climb the 342 steps up the South Tower. The steep and narrow ancient staircase will lead you up 246 feet to a lookout which provides one of the most stunning views of Vienna.

The Graben

After touring the church, you might want to chill out with a walk along the Graben. The Graben is Vienna’s Rodeo Drive. The word Graben means “gutter” as this area was once on the edge of the city walls, where the refuse would be thrown into the outer city moat. Today, it couldn’t be further from the gutter. Along this street, you’ll find some of the most expensive shops, exclusive retail, traditional delights and fantastical architecture – both old and new.

The Holy Trinity Plague Column

In the mist of high-end shops and expensive cafes and restaurants stands one of the most impressive Plague Columns in Europe. Plague columns were erected after plague was wiped out from the city. It was a monument of perseverance in the sight of great pain and suffering. Topped with the Mother of God, this Plague Column was also dedicated to the Brotherhood of the Holy Trinity who created plague hospitals to care for the infected.

Vienna suffered as many as 75,000 dead during their great plague in 1679. Vienna was spared much of the 14th-century plague but was ravaged when it returned in the 17th century. Although medicine and sanitization techniques were improving much of the treatments for the epidemic were still a mix of religious prayers and outlandish medicine. The column is 69 feet tall. At the base, we see the figures representing faith triumphing over disease. The middle portion has the visages of Emperor Leopold I and is topped with golden cherubs flying around to protect the Mother Mary.

St Peter’s Church

The Peterskirche or St. Peter’s Church sits on the corner of the Graben. The earliest church built on this site dates back to the early middle ages, but because nothing remains of that original structure, the church has lost its title as the “oldest church in Vienna”. The current iteration of the church was designed in Romanesque style, initially built in 1137 but redone in the 1700s after fire and plague ravaged the structure.

The interior design of the church was inspired by the Vatican in Rome. When you step inside, you are swept up in a warmth that is almost ethereal. The church uses lots of pink and red marble as well as gold stucco throughout to create this welcoming radiance. A dark, baroque painting covers the massive dome and in the cupolas are frescoes representing the Coronation of Our Lady. The high altar might be one of the most stunning church altars in all of Europe. Walking up to it, your head cranes upwards, towards the heavens.

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Healing of the Lame

Four columns on either side flanks a beautiful Viennese painting of the Healing of the Lame by St. Peter and St. John in Jerusalem by Martino Altomonte painted in the 16th century. If you continue to look upwards, you’ll see a smaller, circular painting of the Immaculate Conception, painted in the 19th century by the artist Kupelwiese. The rest of the altar was created by Antonio Galli Bibiena and is a testament to his skill at creating scenes in gold and silver.

To the right of the altar is the spectacular gilded pulpit, crowned with a gold-and-silver representation of the Martyrdom of St. John of Nepomuk, sculpted by Lorenzo Mattielli. Above them on the canopy, sits the mother of God. The faces and expressions on the sculpture are so powerful and those precious metals seem to have such governance over the viewer.

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On either side of the altar are the side chapels with paintings of the Holy family (left) and St. Michael (right). In either are glass coffins which contain martyrs from the Roman catacombs, dressed in full Roman regalia. Even the pews in the church are decorated, the ends carved with expressive cherubic heads. As you walk out of the church, take a moment to study the baroque organ built in 1751.

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Cafe Demel

Cafe Demel is the closest thing to walking into Maria Antoinette’s bedroom youll ever find outside of Versaille. Luxurious dark wood with Neo-baroque patterns adorn the walls. Golden chandeliers with crystal petals hang from the ceiling and antique mirrors reflect back from every angle beautiful cakes and pastries hiding behind glass cabinets. Demel was established in 1786 and ever since has served Vienna the most mouth-watering pastries and chocolates.

The white-aproned waitresses help the customer pick out their treats. The chocolate comes in some of the most stunning packagings, and although are rather expensive, they make a unique gift which will be treasured by whoever receives it.

MANZ Bookstore

Beside Demel is the MANZ bookshop. MANZ has stood here for over 100 years selling mainly judicial literature. Today, it is a landmark not for its literary selection but its iconic art deco portal, designed in 1912 by Austrian architect Adolf Loos.

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Looshaus

The Looshaus was designed by the same man who created the MANZ bookstore and constructed only a year before. But unlike MANZ which received overwhelmingly positive reviews, the Loohaus was considered too modern in 1911. Vienna was a baroque city which loved ornamentation, and the Loohaus was simplistic, geometric and contemporary. Although it took the public a long time to come around to this form of design, today it is viewed as a groundbreaking piece of art design architecture which helped push the movement forward in Europe.

Michaelerplatz

Michaelerplatz is a large square which separates the rest of the city from the Hofburg Palace, the former imperial court of Vienna. The enormous Michaelertor, the gate into the palace, dominates the square. Its masterful roman columns seem to swell like the crashing of the waves over the rest of the square. In the centre of the square, you can view an open area which has been preserved with the remains of Roman and Medieval foundations of the square which once stood here hundreds of years ago.

Michaelerkirche

On the opposite side of the Michaelertor gate is Michaelerkirche. The Michaelerkirche is an amalgamation of various architectural styles, the original medieval structure was built in 1221, the current facade built in 1792 is neoclassical and the tower, from the 14th century, displays many iconic elements of Gothic architecture.

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Walking inside, you’ll be immediately struck with awe upon looking at the swelling, high altar. Designed in 1782 by Jean-Baptiste d’Avrange it is one of the most majestic stucco sculptures from the Rococo period. The piece features the story of the Fall of the Angels and includes the Archangel Michael of which the church is named after. Clouds burst from the walls and a golden sunburst beams from the ceiling. Angels and cherubs fall to the ground from above. On the lower sunburst is the altar of Maria Candia, a Byzantine icon of the Virgin Mary.

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Great Organ

The other iconic piece of design worth studying inside is the gilded pipe organ from Johann David Sieber. This is the largest baroque organ in Vienna. As you first gaze up at the centre you might not think it looks that big but look to the left and the right and observe the GIANT organs on either side of the smaller central set of pipes. The unfinished Requiem by Mozart was first performed here in 1791.

Austrian National Library

The Austrian National Library is older than some modern nations. The library dates back to 1349 and contains some of the most impressive collections of medieval literature across Europe. Although the 7 euro entry fee into the library might seem steep for entry into, basically one big room, trust me, this is one big room you don’t want to miss. Walking into the Grand Hall, you’re met right away with a breathtaking scene. You feel like you’re inside a cathedral with the massively high ceilings, doomed rooftop covered in frescos and enormous marble columns. But the important part of the room are the glossy amber shelves holding precious paper treasures.

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Heldenplatz

This history of Heldenplatz is a sordid one. Heldenplatz or Heroes’ Square is a large public area in front of the Hofburg Palace. One of the darkest parts of this square’s history is its use in Adolf Hitler’s ceremonial announcement of the Austrian Anschluss to Nazi Germany on March 15th, 1938. The square is the perfect place to get an incredible shot of the Royal Castle which sits across the square. In the centre of the square stands the statue of Archduke Charles of Austria. The statue was installed in 1860, and was meant to lift the spirits of the people up after their defeat in a bloody battle. The horse he rides on is rearing up as this is a symbol of military glory. Another equestrian statue in the square is that of Prince Eugene of Savoy designed in 1865.

Maria-Theresien-Platz

Walking west along Heldenplatz Road you will come to another grand square; this one is the Maria-Theresien-Platz or Empress Maria Theresia Square. On either side of the square are two near-identical buildings, one is now the Natural Museum of History and the other the Art History Museum of Vienna. In the centre of the square is a large statue of Empress Maria Theresa, her hand outstretched towards the people below. She is surrounded by variously armed calvary surrounding the round statue. The square itself is decorated with simple yet aesthetically pleasing green shrubs and bushes carved into perfect round nodules.

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Bier & Bierli

This charming tavern has been located along the Operngasse for hundreds of years, and the new owners wanted to continue its excellent legacy. Today this tavern serves up dozens of local and international beers and down-to-earth Viennese specialities. The walls are covered in beer memorabilia from over the years and sitting inside makes you feel like you’re more in a museum than a restaurant. If you want a down-home taste of Vienna, be sure to order the veal schnitzel, this gigantic fried piece of meat is served alongside a traditional helping of cranberry jelly, fried potatoes and a salad to make you feel like you’re offsetting all that fried goodness.

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The Best Guide to Discovering the Beauty and History of Dresden’s Iconic Frauenkirche

The Creative Adventurer — Tue, 12 Sep 2017 13:44:03 +0000

The Dresden Frauenkirche, or Church of Our Lady, is one of the grandest buildings in all of Europe, but its destruction and reconstruction make this Church stand out to me. The interior and overall design aren’t in my top ten, but the story behind every stone is one I will never forget.

Table Of Contents

History of Dresden Frauenkirche
Current Frauenkirche
The Golden Cross
Baroque Interior
Walking up the Dome
View over Dresden

History of Dresden Frauenkirche

The original building that once stood here was a traditional Roman Catholic Cathedral. It was during the Reformation that this new Baroque Lutheran design came to replace the old Catholic Church. The new model was considered one of the best examples of Protestant architecture, and it holds up one of the largest domes in all of Europe atop its octagonal base. For decades, the dome and its golden cross were the crowning glories of the Dresden skyline.

WWII

During WWII, the Church was heavily bombed. On February 13th, 1945, the American and British forces dropped thousands of bombs on Dresden. The Church has withstood bombings and attacks, but never to this extent. The Church stood its ground for two days of constant bombing runs. People had come to the Church to seek refuge, and for those two days, the eight massive sandstone pillars protected these people and no doubt saved their lives. But even the strongest must fall. And after 650,000 bombs, the heat generated inside and outside the Church caused the pillars inside to explode. Some claim that they glowed bright red and shattered into a million pieces.

Frauenkirche Restoration

After the war, people who loved their Church took the pieces of shattered and blackened sandstones and piled them together. They collected these pieces hoping the former heart of the city would be rebuilt one day. But they had to wait over 45 years, through communism, until their Church would return to the people. The communists were not interested in spending money to reconstruct the Church, but dedicated art historians, priests and even the congregation began salvaging and categorizing the stones. These stones became a memorial to those lost at war, and in 1982 it was the place where people would meet to protest the East German regime. Finally, after reunification, the reconstruction of the Church would begin.

In 1989, a 14-member group of enthusiasts headed by Ludwig Güttler, a noted Dresden musician, formed a Citizens’ Initiative to raise money for the restoration. Architecture, art historians and engineers sorted the thousands of stones, identifying and labelling each for reuse in the new structure. An American, Günter Blobel, had fond memories of the Church when he was a boy as he had originally been born in Germany before moving to America. In 1994 he won the Nobel prize and donated his $1 million prizes to the Dresden Church of our Lady resolution. In the end, rebuilding the Church cost €180 million dollars, most of which was raised by private citizens. Outside the front doors of the Church lies an original piece of the dome, blackened from the explosion, as a memorial to the original Church and those who died trying to protect it.

Current Frauenkirche

To this day, you can stand outside the Church and see the original piece of stone that has been used in the Church’s restoration. These stones are covered with a darker patina due to the fire and weathering, but in a few more hundred years, the rest of these new sandstones will also become weathered and blend into the original stones. It was a sight to see as it is, making out the immensity of stones salvaged by everyday citizens.

The Golden Cross

The most moving piece of restoration is the new golden tower cross. The cross was funded by “the British people and the House of Windsor” and was made by a British blacksmith whose father was one of the bomber pilots responsible for the Church’s destruction. It shows how two countries, once at war, can unite to help repair the scars of war and create something beautiful.

Baroque Interior

The original Baroque Church was built between 1726 and 1743 by Dresden’s city architect, George Bähr. The Church is bright and covered from head to toe in pastel colours. When restoring the Church, artists used paintings and photographs of the original colouring to restore it to its former brilliance. Some people might not believe these colours could have been utilized in the 17th century, but the Baroque architecture was obsessed with pastel colours. Bähr especially loved green and gold and accented the Church with these trimmings. The windows are made of clear glass, and although this might look like an oversight or work in progress from the restoration, it is actually on purpose. The architect wanted the pure sunlight to filter through the windows, unheeded by stained glass, to illuminate the inside of the Church further.

Protestant Liturgy

Bähr incorporated the new Protestant liturgy by placing the altar, pulpit, and baptismal font up front for all to see. He made the front middle section of the Church the real stunner and left the rest of the Church to only compliment this glowing altarpiece and organ. One important aspect of Baroque architecture was the element of illusion. As such, a church that couldn’t afford hundreds of slabs of marble created its own by painting marbling patterns along all the sandstone columns which hold up the immense dome. The Baroque painters and architects are masters of light and shade, and using this can create illusions that make the building seem longer, wider and even more detailed.

Organ

In 1736, famed organ maker Gottfried Silbermann built this incredible three storeys manual organ for the Church. On the day it was inaugurated into the Church, Johann Sebastian Bach performed a recital to an audience of hundreds. One can only imagine the music he would have produced from this grandiose machine.

Below the organ, you can see, well, how can you miss, the large altar. This altar depicts Jesus’ agony in the Garden of Gethsemane. You can see the olive trees behind him and him praying to the angel coming down from heaven, accented in gold. By some miracle, this piece partly survived the bombing and the fire that destroyed the Church. Some of the figurines had pieces broken off but were more easily restored, leaving us a real original piece of the Church today.

Stone Bell

Other than the altarpiece, the most important part of this building is the 96-metre-tall dome. The name of the dome is “die Steinerne Glocke” or “Stone Bell.” At the time, it was a real feat of engineering and required 12,000 tonnes of sandstone to support.

The frescos painted around the dome are scenes of the four evangelists Matthew, Mark, Luke and John, and allegories of the Christian virtues of belief, love, hope and mercy. These baroque frescos are painted with lighter hands; they were meant to reflect not only the lives of the evangelists but the lives of the ordinary people. The scenes are set on earth and seem more related to people. You can see many of the details on the wall frescos and the dome by ceiling up to the top of the dome. This requires an entry fee but is perhaps one of the city’s best views and the Church itself.

Walking up the Dome

The winding and spiralling staircase lead you to a tiny trapdoor which you climb through to suddenly come through to a viewing platform with a stunning view of the city.

View over Dresden

From here, you have a 360° view across the Elbe and Dresden. We were up there on a clear day and could see past the city and surrounding countryside. You can see the Dresden Academy of Fine Arts and Brühl’s Terrace. Around the corner, you can see the central historic district. You can see the pointed spire of the Dresden Castle, the green onion down of the Roman Catholic Church, the Orange roofs of the Dresden State Art Collections, and the Glass roof of the Dresden Green Vault.

You can see the newly restored square and all the little dots of people below. During the restoration and after the war, this square was where they stored all the thousands of pieces of rubble; now that the construction is done, the square has opened back up to the public – and they have been greatly enjoying having it back. As well as their stunning Church, which anchors the centre of the city.

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Exploring the Dresden Cathedral

The Creative Adventurer — Tue, 12 Sep 2017 02:21:50 +0000

After a walking tour of the city, Dan and I found ourself at the back entrance to the Dresden Cathedral. It has started to rain pretty heavily and so, looking to escape the downpour, we opened the side door in the hope that the church was still open. We walked inside; you could hear the subtle pitter-patter of the rain on the roof overhead, but more than anything, you could hear your footsteps echo in the silence of the great oval room. There were only one or two people inside and for a time Dan, and I wasn’t even sure we were supposed to be there. But seeing as no one was about to kick up out we decided to tiptoe quietly around the nave and explore the building.

This building was always critical to the Catholic people of Dresden. After Augustus the II converted to the Protestant church, his son, seeing that the large Catholic population of his country needed a place of prayer, commission the construction of this church in 1738. Although like the rest of Dresden, the building was almost destroyed in WWII, the valuables such as the organ and altar pieces were saved and reintroduced into the restored church to bring together the original and restored church. The new church is built to the specs of the original using photography and first-hand experience to get all the details just right.

Architect Gaetano Chiaveri designed the church, and it was built from 1738 to 1751. Like other building of the time, he was inspired by the high baroque style coming out of Italy and France. The bright white oval shell is constant with highly elaborate columns and spectacular altarpieces.

Balustrades frame the church and from these features arise 78 statues, each measuring three meters high. The icons represent historical and religious figures.

Reflecting Baroque stylistic trends, the Dresden Catholic Cathedral is oval in shape, and its tower reaches 272 feet in height. 78 statues of religious and historical figures adorn the roofline, and the Cathedral contains the largest organ built by famed organ builder, Gottfried Silbermann. This organ is considered to be the greatest work of Silbermann’s career. The silver organ pipes, look almost pale blue in the daylight and blends in with the rest of the pastel colour scheme of the remainder of the organ’s ornamental design.

The spire of the bell tower is designed as a series of stepped monopteros (open circular structures) decorated with Corinthian columns. The top is crowned with a copper onion-dome. The church is framed with balustrades from which seventy-eight statues of historical and biblical figures look out over the city. Each of these statues is three meters or almost ten feet tall.

The interior of the church also boasts a Rococo pulpit made by Balthasar Permoser, a leading sculptor of his time. Creatures and saints pour out from the swirling sculpture, accented only my touches of gold. The overall whiteness of the sculptures means denying different pieces of the pulpit becomes almost like a magic eye puzzle. I could only imagine what it would be like as a member of the congregation, to come every Sunday and al discover something new.

Throughout the rest of the Cathedral are large ecclesiastical painting accented always by sculpted cherubs who hang off the top of the frames, Their arms outstretched, calling you towards them, asking you to look into the painting, to find answers and to come away with a renewed sense of self through the stories therein.

All in all, it was not perhaps my favourite church I’ve ever visited but it certainly has it’s own little charms and for anyone visiting, it’s a short little visit to see a piece of the city that was so important to its people.

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The Ultimate Guide to St. Vitus Cathedral, the Shining Gem of Prague

The Creative Adventurer — Thu, 07 Sep 2017 13:20:01 +0000

The crowning jewel of Prague Castle is without a doubt, St. Vitus Cathedral. You might expect the royal residences would be the most distinguished buildings in the compound, but here, the church reigns supreme. Upon entering Prague Castle, you can see the awe-inspiring Gothic towers of St. Vitus poking their heads out. Above all the other red roof buildings surrounding it. St. Vitus is one of the best examples of Gothic architecture in Prague. Or anywhere in the world for that matter and should be a must-see sight for anyone visiting Prague for the first time.

Tips on Exploring the Cathedral

St. Vitus Cathedral is enormous. Exploring it in its entirety might seem daunting to first-time visitors. Spend time studying the details, don’t try to take it all in at once. Take a seat inside when you first walk in, allow yourself to take in the design, the layout, the colours, the sounds and even the small. Follow along with this little-guided tour to find out more of the secrets inside these walls. The tour takes you around the exterior and then inside. The tour takes starts at the base of the north tower. Following along the north aisles and then around the High Altar and Gothic Chapels. Then finishing off walking back down the south side aisles towards the south tower.

Tickets

Upon arriving at the Prague Caste gates, you can stop at the ticket booth and buy your ticket. But before you do, know that you DO NOT need to buy a ticket simply to walk around Prague Castle. While you don’t need a ticket to explore the exterior of the complex to go inside the Cathedral, Royal Residence and exhibitions you do need to pay.

There are all sorts of different “circuit” tickets available, all of which offer access to various parts of the castle. This can seem daunting and confusing at first, and I think a lot of tourists go for the most expensive one thinking that’s the easiest way to see it all. Circuit A will cost you CZK 350 ($15 USD), and Circuit B will cost you CZK 250 ($10 USD). For most visitors, the ‘Circuit B’ ticket is actually your best choice. It gives you access to St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica, and Golden Lane with the Daliborka Tower. It won’t give you access to ‘the Story of Prague Castle,’ or the Powder Tower and Rosenberg Palace. But I don’t think these are worth your time for a first-time visitor.

Guide to St. Vitus Cathedral

Tickets
St. Vitus in Prague
Exterior
History
Nave
North Side Aisle
The Transept
The Chancel
Gothic Chapels
Tomb of St. Vitus
St. Wenceslas Chapel
High Tower
South Side Aisle

St. Vitus in Prague

“St. Vitus” was named by Prague’s patron Saint, St. Wenceslas, Duke of Bohemia. Saint Wenceslas had acquired a holy relic, the arm of St. Vitus, from Emperor Henry I. Since Saint Vitus had a Slavic sounding name. And the Emperor thought this was the perfect relic to convert the Slavic people to Christianity. Saint Vitus is the patron saint of actors, entertainers and dancers. He is also said to help protect against lightning, dog bites and, if you can believe it, over sleeping.

Standing in the third courtyard of Prague Castle, looking up at the looming gothic towers, you must remember you are in the same spot where a romanesque pagan temple stood as early as 924. The temple was dedicated to the god of fertility. And many women made the pilgrimage here to pray for a healthy baby. Eventually, the pagan temple was demolished as Christians came to build their Cathedral to their new God.

Exterior

Take some time to examine the church’s exterior. Spot all the different creatures which hang over the roof. You’ll see dragons, scorpions, musicians and more. At night these sculptures are all lit up from below Creating a haunting spectacle as their faces seem to move in the light.

Although the southern entrance to the Cathedral is no longer in use, walk around the building and look up at what might be the most astonishing part of the exterior – the Golden Gate. This entrance is decorated with colourful and gilded mosaics which combine to produce a stunning scene of the Last Judgement. Unlike the modern western doors, these doors date back from 1370. Since they are so old and delicate, they’re no longer in use to protect them from too much wear and tear.

Western Door Entrance

To enter the church, go back around to the cathedral’s western doors. As you walk through, take a moment to look at the large, bronze reliefs. Each one is adorned with scenes from the history of the Cathedral’s constructions and legends about St. Wenceslas and St. Adalbert. Adalbert of Prague was a missionary who brought the Christian religion, along with St. Wenceslas, to the people of Bohemia. Although the doorways might look old, these designs only date back to 1953.

History

Like many of the world’s great churches, construction took ages. It began in 1344 but was not completed until 1929. Even today, the Cathedral is steadily being restored to ensure all the work that went into building such a gem isn’t lost to time and the pollution of the faithful.

The architect of St. Vitus Cathedral was Frenchman Matthias of Arras who had previously designed the famed Papal Palace in Avignon. Matthias of Arras was a schooled geometer and mathematician, who loved rigid proportions. Matthias is responsible for the heady French Gothic architectural style found so prominently throughout the Cathedral. French Gothic architecture was compact. The transept is short with small chapels. The west front is gracious, with three portals topped with a classical rose window and two large towers. The east end is polygonal with radiating chapels. But the most impactful piece of French Gothic design is their use of height to create an impactful vertical perspective.

Peter Parler

But Matthias didn’t live to see the Cathedral finished. After his death, 23-year-old Peter Parler, son of the architect Heinrich Parler, took over construction. Despite his youth, Parler had real-world experience working with his father on the Holy Cross Minster and the Nuremberg Frauenkirche in Nuremberg, Germany.

Parler was an innovator and brought his own unique ideas to the Cathedral. He synthesised traditional gothic elements and his more modern ideas, exemplified in the vaults he designed for the choir. These, now named “Parler” vaults, have diagonal ribs that span the width of the choir-bay providing additional strength and also producing a dynamic pattern effect along the ceiling.

Parler was a sculptor and woodcarver as well as an architect. When he took over the project, he moved away from the mathematical, structured designs of Matthias and added more naturalistic ornaments. Study the tracery panels, the organic buttresses, window ornaments, the bell-shaped columns, passageway lintels and the busts in the triforium – each one given an artistic flourish that only a sculptor could have conceived.

Nave

As you walk along the nave, you are immediately struck with a wave of colour and light we well as powerful vertical lines. Above the main entrance is the classical rose window, installed in 1927, which depicts various famous scenes from the bible.

North Side Aisle

On either side of the nave are narrow side aisles lined with small yet elaborately decorated chapels. Many of the chapels are adorned with a large stain glass window. They are dedicated to a particular saint and will often contain a relic or gilded altar portraying scenes of the life of the saint.

Archbishop’s Chapel

The Archbishop’s Chapel, one of the first on the north side aisle, contains the most majestic stained glass windows. This piece was produced by Czech, Art Nouveau master painter, Alfons Mucha. Created in the early 1930s, the piece was commissioned for the Millennium Jubilee of St. Wenceslas’ death. The window portrays the young St. Wenceslas with his grandmother St. Ludmila. Surrounding the centre panel are small vignettes of the lives of Saints Cyril and Methodius who spread Christianity among the Slavs.

The first thing you’ll notice upon looking at this piece is the saturation of the colours and sharp lines around the figures. Because this pane of glass was painted – not stained – Mucha was able to produce a more impactful artwork filled with powerful organic forms blossoming onto the panels.

The Transept

As you continue walking down the nave, you’ll come upon the “crossing”. This where the north and south transepts intersect with the nave, creating the “cross” design which is so important to Cathedrals.

The south transept contains the glittering stained glass window designed by Max Švabinský. This was installed in 1938 and depicts scenes from the Last Judgement, with the fires of hell burning brightly in the lower right panel. The vivid colour in the contemporary stained glass is breathtaking.

Baroque Pipe Organ

In the north transept, you’ll find the baroque pipe organ. The current organ has over 4400 pipes and was built by Josef Molzer in 1932. The 16th-century Renaissance organ loft houses this musical instrument in what is now one of the oldest parts of the church. Despite all those pipes, the organ is simply not loud enough to fill the whole 125-meter long church. In 2017, bids to build the new organ were being reviewed. They want to build a new loft to house a modern pipe organ with over 8000 pipes – set to be the largest organ in Europe. The estimated cost of this would be anywhere from 80 to 100 million crowns ($3.5 million USD).

Below the organ are three carved wooden doors with reliefs of the martyrdom and lives of various Bohemian saints.

Standing at the crossing, study the ornamental golden pulpit. Many people have remarked that it is one of the most impressive pulpits seen anywhere in Europe. The entirety of the pulpit is covered in gold leaf and Renaissance portraits of famous Bohemian saints and royalty.

The arcade along the aisles contains painted crests of all the Bohemian families who have served the realm over the years since the Cathedral’s construction.

The Chancel

Behind the crossing and in front of the high altar, is the chancel which contains the Royal Mausoleum. The tombs behind the intricate wrought iron gates are that of Ferdinand I and his wife. Each one of their tombs is topped with a hauntingly realistic marble effigy.

A set of stairs behind the gates leads down to the royal crypt where dozens of Bohemian royals are interred.

Choir and High Altar

Behind the Royal Mausoleum is the Choir and high altar. The high altar follows the strict neo-gothic philosophy; tall proportions and fine details. The entire altar resembles the shape of a cathedral itself. The altar of St. Vitus was the crowning place of all the Kings and Queens of Bohemia, and one can only imagine how beautiful the Royals would have looked in their finery, made only finer by the sparkling interior of the Cathedral.

Gothic Chapels

Surrounding the chancel is a ring of Gothic Chapels. Starting on the left (the north end), make your way around, finishing off at the famous, St. Wenceslas Chapel.

St Sigismund

The first chapel you’ll visit is of St Sigismund, one of the patron saints of the city of Prague. Designed by František Kanka in 1720, it contains a remarkable red marble altar with stone carved into depictions of the saint. St Sigismund was once King of the Burgundians before he was captured by the King of Orléans and executed. In 1366, Charles IV, Holy Roman Emperor, moved Sigismund’s relics to Prague and he has since become one of the many patron saints of the Kingdom of Bohemia.

St. Anne’s Chapel

St. Anne’s Chapel is next. Standing in the centre is a sumptuous gothic altar. Inside are three white marble saints, the central figure being St. Anne herself. St Anne was the mother of Mary and grandmother of Jesus according to apocryphal Christian and Islamic tradition. Behind the altar is an elaborately designed stained glass window portraying a multitude of saints. On either side of the chapel are two large, painted frescos depicting scenes from the saint’s life.

The Chapel of St. John the Baptist

The Chapel of St. John the Baptist contains the gothic tombs of Břetislav II, Bořivoj II and the magnificent tomb of Vratislav of Pernstein, Supreme Chancellor of Rudolf II, designed by the Dutch architect Vredeman de Vries. Inside the chapel, there is also a precious historical piece of medieval craftsmanship – a part of a 12th-century Candelabra from Jerusalem.

Lady Chapel

Next is the Lady Chapel or the “Trinity Chapel”. Inside the Lady Chapel is a magnificent altarpiece depicting “The Visitation”. In Christianity, the Visitation was the meeting of Mary with Elizabeth. Prague was one of the first places in the world to celebrate the feast of the Visitation, at the behest of Archbishop Jan Jenstein in the 1390s.

Alongside the altar lies the tombs of Břetislav I, his wife Jitka and Spytihněv II. Many of these beautifully carved graves are the works of the Peter Parler workshop. This meant that even the tombs fit in perfectly with the design of the rest of the Cathedral.

Tomb of St. Vitus

On the other side of the Lady Chapel is the great tomb of St. Vitus himself. A sculpture of the saint is carved atop the tomb, set against a background of golden lattice work. The tomb itself is rather subdued and simple.

But the most impressive tombs is the baroque, silver encased resting place of St. John of Nepomuk which stands across from the Gothic Chapels. The tomb is draped in a deep red canopy held up by a squadron of divine angels. Two tonnes of silver was used to create this work of art.

Saint John of Nepomuk made a martyr by being drowned in the Vltava river when he refused to divulge the secrets of the Queen’s confessional. He is now the patron against calumnies a protector from floods and drowning.

Chapel of St. John of Nepomuk

The Chapel of St. John of Nepomuk across from him tomb contains a cherished relic. Years after St. John of Nepomuk was drowned, his body was pulled from the river and a part of his body, saved in this reliquary.

The Waldstein Chapel

Beside the chapel of Nepomuk is The Waldstein Chapel which contains two beautiful fresco on either wall and a small altarpiece in the centre, behind a wonderfully geometric stained glass window.

Royal Oratory

The Royal Oratory is set along the row of Chapels. It contains one of the most elaborate designs of the Cathedral with ribbed vaulting carved into the balcony to make it look like tree branches, growing from the stone. This is Parler’s work and is almost an early influence to Gaudi’s ‘Sagrada Familia’.

St. Wenceslas Chapel

But the most important Chapel of them all is St. Wenceslas Chapel. St. Wenceslas was the Duke of Bohemia from 921 until his assassination in 935. His younger, power hungry, brother was found guilty of his murder. Although he was never an actual King, many people know his from the Christmas carol “Good King Wenceslas”. The heroic goodness of the duke was well known throughout Bohemia, and years after his death people continued to spread stories of his kindness. He was eventually posthumously declared a King and given a sainthood.

From floor to ceiling, this chapel is embellished with the most exquisite paintings, gilding and ornaments. The lower portions of the walls in here are decorated with over 1300 semi-precious stones and paintings depicting the Passion of Jesus from 1372–1373. In the centre of the room hangs a golden chandelier which resembles a grand crown, for the King of Kindness.

Inside the Chapel, relics of the Saint are still housed inside his tomb, seen below covered in a red and gold embroidered drape. In the corner of the room, there is a small door with seven locks. This door leads to the Crown Chamber which contains the city’s Crown Jewels. These treasures are off limits to the public, except for one day, every eight years, when the seven locks are opened, and these incredible riches can be looked upon by the people of the city.

High Tower

For those of you who have the courage and energy, be sure to climb the High Tower to get some of the most impressive views of the city and courtyards below. The bell atop the tower is named “Sigismund Bell” and was forged in 1549. It is Bohemia’s largest bell and to hear it ring out is a great thing to hear.

South Side Aisle

The Thun Chapel was themed after the Psalm “Those who Sow in Tears Shall Reap in Joy” by František Kysela. It says:

Those who sow with tears
will reap with songs of joy.
Those who go out weeping,
carrying seed to sow,
will return with songs of joy,
carrying sheaves with them.

The stained glass window the back of the chapel depicts various parts of the Psalm in sparkling, vivid colours and with the characters moving throughout in ways not traditionally seen in static stained glass.

Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre

In the Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre, the large, pink and purple stained glass window draws out all the different ‘Acts of Mercy’. There is also an early Baroque altar from 1674 and a picture of St. Mary Magdalene from 1600.

St Ludmila Chapel

The St Ludmila Chapel is located along the southern aisle and is a significant place for Czech Christians. St Ludmila was the grandmother of St. Wenceslas and taught him Christian kindness. She married Borivoj, the first Czech prince to adopt Christianity. Ludmila raised St. Wenceslas as her son after the death of his father. The anti-Christians who ran the country after the death of Wenceslas’ father, opposed Ludmila and resented her influence over Wenceslas. Before Wenceslas could ascend the throne, they strangled Ludmila, hoping to end Wenceslas’ pursuits of Christianity.
Unfortunately, it had the opposite effect, and after her death, Wenceslas was even more passionate about securing his grandmother’s legacy.

Even if you’re not religious, St. Vitus Cathedral is a monumental work of art and must be visited, especially if it’s your first time in Prague. The entry is always free so if you feel like you want to visit on more than one occasion to study it up, you can come and go as you please.

Step back in time. Take a step into history. And step into St. Vitus Cathedral.

The post The Ultimate Guide to St. Vitus Cathedral, the Shining Gem of Prague first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.