Colonia Roma - The Creative Adventurer

Everything You Need to Know About Visiting Colonia Roma in Mexico City

The Creative Adventurer — Thu, 25 Aug 2022 14:01:11 +0000

Colonial Roma is the hipster heart of Mexico City. No doubt about it. There is a good reason why so many travellers refer to the area as the Williamsburg of Mexico City. If La Condesa is the “lungs,” then Roma Norte is Mexico City’s stomach. Roma Norte is known for having; the best bar scene, top-class restaurants, incredible street food, and picturesque cafes on every street corner. But the area is also home to some of the best-preserved colonial-era architecture. Every street is plush with greenery, ivy falling off the Juliet balconies above. Wide avenues are home to charming artisans, and the idyllic parks are where locals come to relax.

To find the best of what this neighbourhood in Mexico City has to offer follow this walking tour through the streets of Roma Norte!

Table Of Contents

Location
History
Architecture
Where to Stay
What Sights to See
Where to Shop
Where to get the Best Coffee
Where to Eat
Where to Find the Best Desserts
Where to Get a Drink
Where to Find the Best Museums

Location

The neighbourhood of Roma Norte, also called Colonial Roma, is located south of the Paseo de la Reforma. And just below the Historic City Centre. Roma Norte’s central location makes it an ideal place for tourists. From here you can easily reach all the best spots in the city in no time! The Colonial Roma is so large that the area has been divided into the North and South. Avenue Yucatan is the main street that separates Roma Norte and Roma Sud. Each area has developed their own distinctive character. There is also a third district called La Romita. Today, we are taking a tour of Roma Norte. Roma Norte is by far the most lively and largest neighbourhood in the area.

History

Roma was one of the first upper-class neighbourhoods built in Mexico City. And I don’t just mean built in the 20th century. In 1529, the area that now makes up Roma was granted to Hernán Cortés by the Spanish Crown. During the colonial period, the Counts of Miravalle continued to control the area. This brought in more and more wealthy Spainairds into the neighbourhood. And with them the need for lavish residences.

Eduardo Walter Orrin

But it wasn’t until the 19th century that we start to see the creation of the Roma we find today. And we have the strangest person to thank for the overall look and feel of the neighbourhood. And that is Englishman Eduardo Walter Orrin. Orrin made his wealth in the Circus of all places. The Orrin Circus arrived in Mexico City in 1872 after touring the US and South America.

The circus was a HUGE success in Latin America. It was so popular that Orrin was able to afford to build a permanent venue. The circus operated inside, what is now the Teatro Blanquita in the Centro Histórico, for over 26 years! When Eduardo Orrin finally closed the circus, he turned his eyes on real estate development. And there was no place more promising than the area just south of the historic centre…what we know today as Roma Norte!

The Creation of Roma

In the late 19th century, the wealthy elite of Mexico City were fleeing the crumbling Centro Histórico. The Centro Histórico was literally sinking into the ground and the old architecture was deteriorating rapidly. The aristocracy of Mexico City were looking for wide-open spaces in which to build their mansions. They dreamt of modern, colonial architecture. Orrin, whose circus operated in the historic centre, heard these cries. So Orrin went about purchasing land to the south.

The name “Roma” was also Orrin’s idea and came from Circo Romano (Roman Circus.) Although somewhat dissimilar to today’s circus, the Roman Circus was the inspiration for his own money-making enterprise. Even the streets around Roma were inspired by the circus. Many of the roads were named after the Mexican cities where the Orrin Circus had travelled. You’ll find Puebla, Oxaca, Colima, Córdoba, Morelia and more!

Porfirio Era

Porfirio Diaz and his government were also interested in aiding the creation of this upper-class neighbourhood. The president was enthralled with the European cities he visited on his travels. He longed to make Mexico City as impressive as those European cities he so badly envied. Diaz and his government provided rich and modern infrastructure to the new colonial. This included running water lines and sewers. Sewers were a truly modern convenience that, at the time, only was available in the Roma neighbourhood!

Roma soon became a European aristocratic enclave. Inspired by the elegant boulevards of Paris, the street in Roma were widened. And many of the main streets were installed with double rows of trees. Medians were built in the centre of the roads to provide relaxing pedestrian walkways. In the 1940s and 1950s, the area drew in the best of the best of Mexico City. Artists, businessmen and politicians arrived in style. Famous chilangos such as Álvaro Obregón, David Alfaro Siqueiros and former president Mexico Luis Echeverría all found themselves living within these “walls”.

The Great Downfall of Roma

But in the 1950s, after WWII, the city began instituting lower rent regulations in these neighbourhoods. This act brought in more lower-class residents. The wealthier class railed against these newcomers, and many started to leave the area. More exclusive and luxurious areas like Polanco began to pop up. Drawing the remainder of the upper class out of Roma for good.

In addition to the new residents, taller buildings began to pop up around the colonial mansion. “Ruining” the look of the peaceful “town,” causing a further exodus. But the tall buildings weren’t just an eyesore; they were unknowing starting to disturb the ground below them.

This all came to a head on September 19th, 1985, at seven in the morning. An earthquake with a magnitude of 8.0 hit Mexico City. Thousands of buildings were levelled, and over 10,000 people lost their life. In Roma alone, 472 buildings were partially or entirely collapsed. The neighbourhood fell into complete disrepair. The population declined from 95,000 inhabitants in 1970 to 35,000 in 1995.

Reconstruction efforts were slow in these lower-class neighbourhoods. Regulations were put into place that no new apartment buildings could be constructed or older constructions adapted. This was to ensure the area remained intact until it could be repaired. But, by happy accident, this ended up preserving the remaining historic buildings for future residents and travellers.

The Renaissance of Roma

In the last 10 years, the area has started to slowly become more and more gentrified. We are witnessing the rebirth and renaissance of Colonial Roma. Low rents and beautiful architecture brought the hipsters who have started to transform the streets once more. Today the area is home to some of the cities trendiest cafes, incredible street art, awe-inducing pastries, curated cocktails and top-class restaurants.

Architecture

Porfirian Art Deco

There are two main identifiable architecture styles in Roma; Porfirian Art Deco and Colonial Revival Style. The iconic architecture of Roma is marked by the fact that the new residents rejected the traditional Mexcian Baroque architecture found in the historic centre. That iconic red tezontle stone was replaced with wrought iron, crucial for highlighting the Art Deco elements.

French and Italian influences were also incorporated with Gothic and Moorish designs. Today, this combination of design styles is called “Porfirian architecture,” named after President Porfirio Diaz. Traditional Mexican brick and ceramics were replaced with modern metal and glass. Houses in this style were constructed up until 1910.

Colonial Revival Style

After the Mexican Revolution (1910-1920), the houses and buildings took on a Neo-Colonial or Colonial Revival Style. The era after the Revolution served as the antithesis to the Porfirian. The new President Venustiano Carranza‘s government even gave out federal tax exemptions to those who built houses in the colonial-revival style. These neo-colonial houses displayed a sense of nationalism and featured plateresque elements, pinnacles and mixtilinear arches. Architects brought back traditional materials such as tezontle, cantera and Talavera tiles. As we walk along the streets, see if you can spot the various styles as we go!

Where to Stay

If you’d like to stay in Roma Norte, there are many boutique hotel options for you to explore. It might seem easy to use services like Airbnb as there are tons of low-cost options. But Airbnb has continued to cause rent inflation and rental shortages for locals. Everything we love about the area is on the verge of disappearing. Roma could easily turn into a tourist-only sector if this continues.

On the other hand, hotels create hundreds of jobs for the locals who live here. And in Roma Norte, they are some of the most beautiful hotels anywhere in the world! Many also have kitchens and family-style rooms to serve larger groups. So definitely give them a look before you go straight to Airbnb. In the end, if Airbnb is more budget-friendly for you, I totally get it. Just be sure to do your best to give as much of your time and money into the neighbourhood. To ensure you are continuing to support the hyper-local community.

Stanza $

Stanza is a great budget option just to the east of Roma Norte. It is located on the edge of the urban Pushkin Park. Despite the low price, the hotel has a great vibe and is located in a safe and quiet area. For the best rooms ask for one facing the park. The rooms are a little dated but clean and well-maintained. Perfect for those on a budget!

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Ignacia $$$

Ignacia Guest House is truly one of the best secrets hidden in Roma Norte. Under the purple blossoms of the Jacaranda tree lining the streets, you will be welcomed home. The house was originally an old 20th-century mansion that has been transformed into just six elegant suites. Since there are so few rooms, everyone who stays here feels like family.

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Each suite is designed differently, blending history and Mexican artisan tradition with contemporary design. In fact, Ignacia Guest House has been internationally acclaimed for its interior design, architecture, and restoration. During the day, guests can abandon their daily routine and enjoy the historical details, gardens, and spaces. They can have breakfast at the communal tables or in the garden under an orange tree in the morning. Book well in advance as the rooms are highly coveted by anyone in the know who visits Mexico City.

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La Valise $$$

La Valise feels like the epitome of Mexico City living. It is a blend of luxury, comfort, style and relaxation. A little slice of heaven on the streets of La Roma. Located inside a 1920’s French-style townhouse, there are only three suites, each located on a different floor of the building. So you really feel like you have the place to yourself! Like you’re just a neighbourhood resident. Each room is uniquely decorated with Mexican antiques and one-of-a-kind interior decor. A splurge but a well-worth splurge!

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What Sights to See

Plaza Río de Janeiro

One of the best places to enjoy a morning coffee and pastry is inside the stunning Plaza Río de Janeiro. Plaza Río de Janeiro (or Rio de Janeiro Square) was originally named Plaza Roma but it was renamed in 1922. Mexico was invited to attend the Brazilian centenary celebration in 1922 and wanted to pay tribute to their brotherly city. So they decided instead of building an entirely new park, they would just rename this one for them.

The columns of cacti that line the park’s edge create these wonderful architectural elements created out of the natural environment. The park’s pathways swirl and curl around the central parkette. Creating this almost mesmerizing and yet peaceful atmosphere.

Michelangelo’s David

One of the park’s most interesting features is the replica statue of Michelangelo‘s David. It stands in the centre of the park, looking over the central fountain. One might wonder why there is an Italian statue smack dab in the centre of the park dedicated to Brazil. In truth, there is no connection between the two. Simply, the city architects of the time were on a quest to turn Mexican parks into European squares. Going so far as creating these exact replicas. We will see more and more along the rest of our tour so keep an eye out!

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Edificio Rio de Janeiro

On either side of the park, you’ll find some incredible examples of old colonial and art deco mansions. Their stone and wrought iron Juliet balconies looking out towards the park are draped in their own set of greenery. The most important house surrounding the park is the Edificio Rio de Janeiro. It is found on the east side of the park. Easily identifiable by the large green awning and art deco lettering that marks its entrance. While the building is today called ‘Edificio Rio de Janeiro’ years ago, the house went by a very different name.

La Casa de las Brujas

While the lower, street-level exterior is covered in wrought iron and art deco elements, these were added in the 1930s. The original castle-inspired red-brick building was built in 1908. The house was called the La Casa de las Brujas (The Witch’s House). It was nicknamed as such due to the pointed tower located in the corner of the building. It was thought to perfectly resemble a pointed witch’s hat. But the witch symbolism doesn’t stop there! Many people thought that the windows below the “hat” resembled a human face. The (now) bricked up ovals were the yes, the lintel was the nose and the pointed balcony the mouth. To get the effect, you need to look at the house from the northwest corner. And trust me, it’s hard to miss!

Rumours began to spread that only a witch could have devised such a creation. Stories say her name was La Pachita. And she would watch people coming about their business in the park from her windows. Perhaps looking for victims or buyers of her next spell. But sadly, the truth is much more boring. The house was designed by architect Enrique Sánchez Sedeño. He was working under the Porfiriato and was influenced by European designs. He drew on elements from Gothic architecture and Viennese-style windows to create the house we see today.

Iglesia de la Sagrada Familia

On Orizaba street, you’ll find the Iglesia de la Sagrada Familia. This church sits on the corner of Puebla street. The exterior of the church is awe-inspiring, filled with rich neo-romanesque decorations. This was the first church in Colonial Roma in 1910. One of my favourite aspects of the church is the neo-Gothic rose window above the entrance. The window is surrounded by ornate stone carvings of palm leaves. The stunning Italian-made stained glass windows are also filled with organic designs of plants and flowers. As the entirety of Roma feels like a living garden, the church fits right into that blooming environment.

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Casa Universitaria del Libro UNAM

Kiddie corner to the church is the Casa Universitaria del Libro UNAM, another iconic building from the history of Roma. It was built in 1920 and originally designed as an elegant residence for Joaquín Baranda MacGregor, a preeminent politician. The mansion was created by the same designer as the church. He chose for this house the art deco style so popular at the time. Today the house is iconic for its green wrought iron scalloped gates and bright green shutters. The building is a venue for various academic activities and book publications from the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México.

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If you have the chance to pop your head inside, definitely take advantage of that opportunity! The entrance features a large irregular hexagonal hall, with a central staircase leading up to a great stained glass. The stained glass features the church of San Francisco Javier in Tepotzotlan, one of the most beautiful churches in Mexico.

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Fuente de Cibeles

In the center of this large roundabout along Plaza Villa de Madrid is a mammoth circular plaza featuring a dramatic fountain. The Fuente de Cibeles made a replica of the original fountain of the same name found in Madrid. The city to which the plaza is also named. The community around the plaza were primarily residents originally from Spain. They wanted to bring something to Mexico City that represented their homeland. It was designed as a symbol to link both cities in their shared brotherhood.

The Goddess Cybele

The fountain features the goddesses Cibele. She is the mistress of wild nature, sitting in her bronze chariot. Cibele is pulled by her companions, her two pet lions. They are a male and female, representing fertility. Cibele also is the godess of protection, also symbolized in the fearsome lions. She carries an oversized key in her hand, which indicates her power over earth. In the other hand, she carries a sceptre, a symbol of her power over the seasons.

Fittingly, as Cibele represents the seasons, she is surrounded in Springtime by Mexico City’s most impressive seasonal features; the Jacaranda trees. The best time of to see the Jacaranda trees is during later March and early April. This is when they are in full bloom and create a halo of purple blossoms all around the plaza. The plaza is surrounded by some very hip cafes and restaurants. It is a great place to return to while away a lazy afternoon.

Avenida Álvaro Obregón

Many people refer to Avenida Álvaro Obregón as the “main street” in Roma Norte. The best way to explore this street is to step into the pedestrian median. Walking between the two lanes of traffic. The design of the street was meant to replicate French boulevards, which also featured central medians.

Along the median, you can stop and sit on one of the many benches. Take a moment to relax under the trees or study the sculptures found along the way. The central walkway is home to bustling art and an antique market which pops up on the weekends.

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Remember Michalengo’s David we saw before? Well, the sculptures along this street are also replicas of famous Italian works of art. They feature characters from Greek and Roman mythology. There are twelve sculptures in total. The fountains include copies of Mirón‘s Discobolus, Michelangelo‘s Bacchus and the Venus de Milo.

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Edificio Balmori

Edificio Balmori / Balmori Building was built in 1922 and later renovated in 1991 to restore the damage from the 1985 earthquake. The building was designed to feature an eclectic combination of historical styles. The new Colonial Roma aimed to imitate European architecture. But they went about it in their own unique ways. This resulted in the amalgamations of style we see today. Study the building for long enough and you can spot; classical, art nouveau, belle epoque, and even Art Deco decorations.

Plaza Luis Cabrera

The delightful Plaza Luis Cabrera parkette is named after politician Luis Cabrera. Cabrera was known for speaking out against the government of Álvaro Obregón. He fought to protect the rights of the lower class. The square was designed to mirror Plaza Rio de Janeiro.

Beat Writers in Roma

The park sits on the edge of Orizaba and Zacatecas Street, a popular area in the 1950s for American writers. Authors like Jack Kerouac, William Burroughs and Allen Ginsberg made their pilgrimage to CDMX. Some of the writers were fleeing America for what they saw as a more romanticized, foreign land. Others (Burroughs) were literally fleeing drug possession charges. Either way, they saw Mexico City as somewhere they could indulge in their vices. In the 1950s, Roma was on the decline. These ex-pats could get away living in robust colonial mansions, drinking and eating all day for very little money.

Famously, Kerouac wrote many stories of his adventures using peyote. He and Burroughs would take it together and lie in the grass in the Plaza Luis Cabrera. Regaling each other of what they saw in their hallucinations. But Roma wasn’t all champagne and roses for these writers. William Burroughs lived just off Avenida Álvaro Obregón (where we stopped for tacos). It was here in 1951 that, after one too many drinks, Burroughs’s life would change forever. He and his wife were playing with his pistol when he accidentally shot her in the head. She died on the spot. Despite being accidental, Burroughs was convicted to a two-year suspended sentence. But the trauma of the incident spurred him on to become a better writer. And perhaps the reason he is so prolific today.

Huerto Roma Verde

Continuing east along Coahuila, walk until you reach the large intersection at Avenue Yucatan.. Across the street, on the east side, you will be able to spot a bright blue column. This giant structure is made of old water jugs that form the monumental entrance to the Huerto Roma Verde. Huerto Roma Verde is a cultural centre made from recovered property once destroyed by the 1985 earthquake. The land was abandoned for 27 years and used as a dumping ground. But Paco Ayala, who initiated the project, saw the 8,000 square feet as an opportunity. He saw the space as a place for regrowth and environmental education through art.

The self-managed community found inside these walls was created by grassroots environmental activists. It began as a small shared vegetable garden. Where residents who lived in small apartments without outdoor space could come and grow their own fresh food. From there, it grew to have a storage tower to collect rainwater, a recycling centre for solid waste and even several farm animals! Their aim is to focus on sustainability and promote the development of communities that are integrated into their local environments.

Much of the space is designed to be an urban garden with mind-bending art sculptures created within the living environment. While you can wander the space and just appreciate the artworks, you can also stop into the various pop-up businesses. They sell everything from organic cosmetics, vegan desserts and fresh coffee. There is also a small amphitheatre that frequently hosts musical performances. So be sure to poke your head around to see what you can find!

Ecoducto Río Piedad

It might sound strange to send visitors to a highway as a sight to see in Mexico City but there is something extraordinary about this particular part of the Mexico City roadway. Walking halfway across the large overpass, stop in the middle of the road. Here you’ll see a long, plant-incrusted walkway called the Ecoducto Río Piedad.

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A Living Purifier

If you’ve ever travelled to New York, you’ll have heard of the high-line. A 1.45-mile-long elevated green park created on a former New York Central Railroad. Well, this is the same kind of concept here in Mexico City. This pedestrian path is surrounded on both sides by trees and aquatic plants. You’ll see people out for a run or walking their dogs. All the while meandering along atop one of the busiest highways in the city. The entire path extends from Chilpancingo metro to Monterrey Avenue with over 4,800 square meters of vegetation dotted across the path.

But the Ecoducto isn’t just a pretty pathway; it has an essential purpose. This is a recovered public space, with a system that cleans the polluted water out of the Piedad River. The water is piped in, and the living ecosystem atop the cement is fed by the water and purifies it in the process. The entire system captures 50 tons of carbon per year. And pumps out about 1% of the drainage water in Mexico City. While that might not seem like a lot, it is a step in the right direction. Hopefully, in the future, they will be able to create more of these beautiful systems that serve the environment and the community.

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Mercado Medellin

Mercado Medellín, or Medellin Market, is my favourite farmer’s market in all of Mexico City. Not only is the marketplace large enough to feature everything you’d want in one place, it somehow still retains that friendly neighbourhood atmosphere. The market never feels too crowded and definitely not like it’s only there for the tourists. Shopping here makes you feel like a local and allows you to experience an authentic Mexican market.

The Mercado Medellín is easily identifiable by its red, green and yellow geometric painted exterior. Lookout on one side for a huge, decorated multicolour mural. This marketplace has stood here for over 150 years. When the market was first established, it was in the centre of an immigrant community in Mexico City. Colombians, Cubans, Brazilian, Venezuelans and even Jewish immigrants all found themselves in the middle of the city in a neighbourhood now called Roma Sur.

The immigrants would import food and goods from their home country to sell here in their new home in Mexico City. Up until the earthquake of 1985, Jewish Mexicans owned and operated the market. But after the quake, its ownership passed hands over to the Cubans, therein earning the market its nickname; “Little Havana.”

The entire marketplace is now home to over 500 different stalls. While you can have a blast just wandering around on your own, check out our complete guided tour if you want to know the best shops to visit! And what you NEED to buy.

Tepeji Street

If you are a fan of cinema, you should consider heading down to Tepeji street where you’ll find #22 Tepeji. This unassuming street is home to the exterior shooting location of the house featured in the award-winning film ‘Roma‘ by Alfonso Cuaron. In addition to this famous sight, if you look right across the street, you’ll see the real-life childhood home of the director. A plaque at #22 Tepeji commemorates this house as the film’s shooting location.

Roma and Mexico City in 1970

The film ‘Roma‘ is a must-watch for anyone visiting Mexico City. It follows the life of a live-in Mixteco housekeeper of a middle-class family. The Mixtecos, are the indigenous peoples of Mexico inhabiting the region known as La Mixteca. It is Cuarón’s semi-autobiographical take on life in the Colonia Roma in the 1970s. The film’s backdrop portrays the tensions over the land that is Colonia Roma. It shows student protestors fighting for the democratization of education. These freedom fighters were also asking for control of the university budget to be handed over to the students and teachers. They wanted political freedom for workers and peasants and quality education for everyone! They also fought for greater cultural diversity but sadly, their efforts resulted in the Corpus Christi Massacre of 1971. Nearly 120 protesters were killed, among them a fourteen-year-old boy. A sad but harsh reality of Mexico City’s history.

Where to Shop

Bazar El Oro

On Saturdays and Sundays, the Bazar El Oro pops up on the corner of El Oro and Colima street. Just down the road from the Fuente de Cibeles. It’s a wonderful and eclectic neighbourhood market filled with shops set up under brightly coloured tarps. Everything from traditional quesadillas to clothing, accessories, music, and coffee is on-sale here!

El Parián

Just past Jalapa Street, stop just inside El Parián, the art-nouveau arcade. This incredible colonial building features eye-catching art-nouveau-style windows. Framing the windows are incredibly detailed stoned carvings with charming characters encircling the building.

Stepping inside, you’ll be able to admire the newly renovated covered shopping arcade. Shops line either side of the passageway. The interior is drenched in light, thanks to the glass ceiling above your head. The new arcade features a fantastical tiled floor, art deco-style decorations and a wash of greenery. It makes you feel like shopping inside a botanical garden!

Librería Ático

A few doors down from El Parián, you’ll come to a small store piled high are thousands of books. Librería Ático is one of those bookstores that feels lived in, in the best way possible. There is a combination of cheap, used books and antique volumes over 100 years old. While you might not find a huge selection of English-language books here, I love perusing the vintage collections. I always search out vintage coffee table books filled with pictures. They make for great conversation pieces. And you can use them to help study your Spanish!

Cafebrería El Péndulo Roma

If you prefer shopping for newer books, you must make your way over to Cafebrería El Péndulo Roma. Cafebrería El Péndulo is a bookstore chain, found across Mexico City. But each store has its own unique personality. Standing three storeys tall when you walk inside, look up to see all the bookshelves towering over you. It almost feels like entering the M.C Escher version of a bookstore. Péndulo always carries a wide selection of English language books. Real plants are dotted around the shop, bringing life into every corner you step inside.

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HAPPENING

HAPPENING Roma Norte is one of my absolute favourite stores in Roma Norte. I come here all the time to find super unique, chic and modern gifts and clothing. One of my favourite things to bring back from trips is beautiful art prints and this store has some of the best. They don’t feel touristy at all but present gorgeous views of my favourite parts of Mexico City. Their selection of hand-made ceramics is also incredible and so aesthetically beautiful. If you’re looking for a really beautiful gift to bring home that feels like it imbues the energy of Mexico City this is the place to come to get it!

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Vintage Hoe

One of the issues I find when visiting Vintage Stores in Mexico City is that the most popular ones focus too heavily on American Fashion. And while I think that’s wonderful for the locals, who see that as something unique, I’m looking for more of a local focus on vintage. And luckily for me, I found that inside Vintage Hoe. Although they still carry lots of American Brands, I find the vibes here to be genuinely representative of Mexico City. Walking inside the door, the well-curated, colourful clothing racks feel like entering a boutique clothing store rather than a vintage shop. In addition to clothing, they also have an incredible collection of accessories that are the perfect addition to lift any simplistic outfit.

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Roma Records

If you’re a music of vinyl head, you must check out Roma Records. You’ll recognize this place from down the street by the hundreds of music stickers plastered over the front of the store, creating this incredible patchwork collage of musical taste. The store is small and a touch overpriced, but their curation is one of the reasons buying records here feels really special. Visiting record stores in a new city is always a great way to see what is new or popular in town. When I came in, I first saw a rare Placebo vinyl, and I was immediately excited to flip through the rest of their collection. Definitely stop in here if you’re in town.

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Librería La Moraleja

Hiding away inside the charming antique glass windows of Librería La Moraleja are some of the most precious books in the city. Librería La Moraleja specializes in rare printings and modern but independent publishers. This book store is a great place to come to support local writers and publishers, and they really feature some gorgeous cover art that you’ll be proud to feature on your shelf. If you don’t read much Spanish but want to support the store, they frequently have a great selection of art books, postcards and prints that you can still buy to help treasure trove stores like this stay in business!

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Tienda Trama

Further east along Coahuila Street is the joyful interiors of Tienda Trama. This shop is cooperative, meaning that everything you find here is made by a series of different local craftspeople and designers. So even if a smaller producer couldn’t afford to open their own shop, they can still sell their products direct to the customers. You can find everything from embroideries, ceramics, hand-made contemporary arts, kids’ clothes, and beautiful jewelry. All locally made and giving back to the community.

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I’m obsessed with buying mugs everywhere I travel. They feel like the perfect “souvenir” as it’s something I use every day. Pulling a mug out of the cabinet makes me so happy as I remember the travels I took to find it. A mug with one of their custom coffee blends makes the best gift to bring home! It has local flare without feeling too much like a cliche souvenir.

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Where to get the Best Coffee

Le Babüin

The best place to start the day is with a good cup of coffee. Head to the southernmost part of the neighbourhood to Le Babüin cafe. This adorable coffee shop, named after the baboon in their logo, is a perfect slice of morning cheer. The staff are so friendly, and the caffeine that drips out of the espresso machines is first class. The sign above their door translates into the quote, “Everyone should believe in something. I think I’ll have another coffee.” Love it.

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Qūentin Café

The first time I went to Qūentin Café was early morning. But despite the sun barely rising above the horizon, the doorway was filled with people chatting to each other in such joyful voices; I thought a party was going on! Everyone seemed to know each other and were saying their morning greetings, dogs in tow, and it seemed like the most friendly atmosphere. But in addition to this, they have some of the best cappuccinos in the entire city!

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Cardinal Casa de Café

Cardinal is one of the more popular chains in Mexico City that still feels like an independent coffee shop! Their baristas are friendly and know how to make the perfect cup of coffee. My favourite is their Cardinal cortado which mixes equal amounts of expresso and warm milk. It’s the ideal wake-me-up drink to get your day started right in the morning. This location is right on the corner of a local street, and the people-watching opportunities here are fantastic!

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Forte

Forte Coffee Shop has the most modern, historical and industrial vibe, all combined together. Their coffee bar is located in the center of the room, where everyone huddles together in the morning, chatting and drinking their early sunrise brew. In addition to gorgeous coffee, they also have homebaked goods, including mouth-watering pastries and some of the best homemade sourdough bread! This place is known for its incredible music selection, and I love coming here to just sit and listen to the tunes while I write in my diary.

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Cucurucho Roma

Cucurucho Roma is a newer coffee shop that opened up in the southern part of the neighbourhood. But it has quickly become one of the hippest places in town! One of the reasons that drew me into this place was the charming and imaginative illustrations plastered all over the walls! These adorable characters feel like they imbue the personalities of the owners and visitors alike. They have some unique coffee blends, like their Horchata con espresso, that are lovely options for those who don’t like pure espresso.

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Farmacia Internacional

Farmacia Internacional is one of those coffee shops almost hidden inside a sunken interior that once served as an actual pharmacy. Much of the original interior remains, like the old painted brick and antique tiled floor. It’s such a cool location with great coffee, and I love that it feels like a slice of preserved architectural history.

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Where to Eat

Panadería Rosetta

There is no better place to start your morning in Roma Norte than at Panadería Rosetta. Panadería Rosetta is a café that combines the best of French and European traditions with Mexican ones. The café offers a daily selection of baked goods. So there is always something extra special to try depending on what day you come by. They offer both sweet and savoury bread and sandwiches, cakes, muffins and more! Everything hidden away in their little glass cases is to die for. Their baked good is so delicious that this bakery delivers their goods to dozens of cafes around town. But I like coming right to the source!

Puebla Street Food

Puebla Street is famous for being packed with street vendors. Here is my quick guide on how to sample them safely:

Choose freshly squeezed juice over agua frescas
Eat in the morning to ensure food hasn’t been sitting out all day.
Always eat food that you can see is being freshly cooked.
Eat from vendors where the chef doesn’t handle the money or wears gloves when touching it.
Avoid uncooked vegetables and fruit that may have been washed in unfiltered water
Choose the stands with a line – a good sign they are reputable and the food is turned over quickly.
Sanitize your hands before eating
Avoid salsas and crema at street food stalls. It’s hard to tell if it has been left out in the sun without refrigeration.

Orinoco

If you were hesitant to try the street tacos, the famous Orinoco Taco is the perfect place to grab lunch. This is one of the most popular taco shops in Roma Norte. Best known for their famous trompo or taco al pastor. Taco al pastor or “shepherd style” tacos are made from spit-grilled pork. The dish was created after Lebanese immigrants introduced shawarma to Mexicans. The pork is marinaded in adobada (red chile) paste and spit roasted with a large pineapple placed on top.

When it is served, it is companied by sliced onions, cilantro and the all-important roasted pineapple. Added to give it that hint of sweetness. Taco al pastor is my favourite kind of taco, and there is no visit to Mexico City without trying them. You should really try all three traditional varieties to decide which one is your favourite. Pair the meal with an agua fresca and, of course, a side of Chicharron (fried pork rinds.)

Mercado Roma

If you’d rather grab something more substantial, make a detour along Insurgentes. Walk along for about eight minutes until you reach C. Querétaro. Just a few steps from the intersection is the food paradise of the Mercado Roma. The sprawling three-story “market” is more of a food hall. There are no fruit and vegetable stands here. Instead, you’ll find upscale tapas, vegan tacos, a rooftop beer garden and boutique-style dessert stands. The aim of the market was to bring the concept of a gourmet market together with the local community. You can sit around communal tables and perhaps even make a few new friends inside.

Por Siempre Vegana

Right across the street from the market is one of the precious few vegan taquerias in the city. Por Siempre Vegana or Forever Vegan, located along Coahuila Street, prides itself on making traditional-style Mexican tacos without the meat! Being a vegan visitor in Mexico City is definitely getting more and more accessible over the years and places like this are the reason! Even if you’re a meat-eater it’s worth checking out. It’s impressive to see the techniques and ingredients they use to create these incredible dishes.

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Restaurante Rosetta

Make your way back up Orizaba to Colima Street. Colima Street is home to some of the best restaurants in the area. To end your evening in Roma Norte, make reservations at Rosetta restaurant. This incredible culinary experience is located inside an old villa whose courtyard has been restored to serve a the restaurant’s dining room. The entire place is filled with plants, making you feel as though you are dining al fresco. The ambiance is outstanding, and the dishes are ever-changing to suit the season. Locally sourced produce is reflected in the ever-changing menu. I always lean towards the chef’s inventive takes on traditional Mexican cusine. Dishes like the white mole with fermented carrots and charcoal are the perfect example of this modern take on classical dishes.

Tamales Doña Emi

If you are craving a snack, hop over to Tamales Doña Emi. If you’ve never managed to be up early in the morning to catch the street tamale vendor, this is a great place to try tamales! There are dozens of different varieties here to try. They have all the traditional fillings and some more eclectic and modern variations as well. Something for everyone.

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Mercado 100

On the corner of Orizaba and C. Antonio M. Anza, just down the street, is the Mercado 100. The Mercado 100 is held every Sunday. It is one of the most unique markets you’ll find anywhere in the city. What makes the Mercado 100 so special is that they aim to be an ethical marketing alternative for organic, ecological and local producers. The market has been running for the past 8 years, and highlights over 50 producers from all over Mexico.

While there is lots of local produce for sale here, you can also buy packaged products. Everything from; honey, vanilla, sauces, chocolate, spices and more. These are wonderful things to buy to bring a slice of Mexico home with you. There are also local artisans selling their wares and handmade goods. Plus the street food, especially the vegan variety, is always incredibly fresh!

El Hidalguense

If you’re in town on Friday, Saturday or Sunday do you need to check out El Hidalguense! El Hidalguense is one of the top traditional Mexican restaurants in the entire city. The restaurant’s classic, old-world interior design makes you feel like you’re stepping back in time. And the dishes are made to bring your taste buds right back there with you. The restaurant specializes in barbacoa (barbeque) lamb tacos which send anyone drooling upon entering the restaurant.

This restaurant is only open on the weekends because the process takes all week to ensure the meat is perfectly cooked. The method of preparation dates all the way back to pre-Columbian times. They begin by digging a hole in the ground and covering it with heated stones. The stones heat the hole for an entire day before the core temperate is hot enough to cook the meat.

After this, the prepared sheep is wrapped in maguey leaves. The leaves give the meat insulation from the hot stones and flavour the meat while it cooks. The oven is then covered in the same leaves and a layer of earth. A fire is lit on top, and the meat is left to cook for around 12 hours or more. The result is incredible and a must–order from El Hidalguense. The atmosphere here is like walking into a huge family party, that has already gotten underway. Families gather to share large platters of slow-cooked meat. Even visitors like you will feel like family by the end of the meal.

Huset

If you’re looking for a place to eat under one of the most picturesque outdoor patios in the city, look no further than Huset. Huset serves up what they call “country cooking” with their unique wood-fired oven-prepared plates. Sitting outside at the communal tables, eating these elevated dishes, really feels like you’re inside a magical garden and is such a memorable place to find yourself on a warm evening.

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Lalo!

If you want to go to brunch and be guaranteed a smile, then you must visit Lalo! Lalo! is another popular brunch spot located in the Roma neighbourhood. Lalo! is the nickname of the owner and acclaimed chef Eduardo Garcia. Brunch is bustling here, so be prepared to wait a while to get a table but trust me, it’s worth it.

Painted on the cafe walls are these incredible colourful, feel-good drawings by Belgian graffiti artist Blue Warrior. They say you eat with your eyes, and being surrounded by these positive and happy-inducing images; you can’t help but eat while filled with pure joy. The most popular items on the menu are their huevos con chorizo and the Huevos fritos con salsa ranchers.

Lardo

Lardo is a beautiful brunch spot in the La Condesa neighbourhood. It’s located inside the old apartment buildings built by THE Condesa that the district is named after. I love how the restaurants are almost hidden away behind the crawling plants that cover the facade of the building. This area of town is so busy on the weekend, and the ambience outside the restaurant is just intoxicating. The menu features hip Mexican-European fusion food, which is as delicious to eat as it is mesmerizing to look at.

Don’t leave without trying the Fried egg, chile con carne and avocado. The Mexican deconstructed version of avocado toast. My husband is obsessed with their selection of granola, and their baked granola served with red berries, and almond milk is a playful take on cereal. Reservations are recommended at this place since it’s one of the most popular spots in Condesa.

Comedor de los Milagros

To end your evening in Roma Sur, head up to the Comedor de los Milagros. The amazing communal party atmosphere inside is palpable. Comedor de los Milagros is a Latin American market, where you can try food from seven different Latin American countries. There are seven restaurant booths surrounding the wide-open room where guests dine on long, communal picnic benches. The food is representative of Argentina, Brazil, Colombia, Uruguay, Peru, Venezuela and Mexico. Peruvian ceviche, Argentinian steak, and even a slew of vegan options as well can all be found inside!

The upper balcony is covered in wall murals and living plants to give the vibe of being outside! It’s the most lively place to be at night, but on the weekend, be prepared to wait in line as it’s one of the hottest places in town. But well worth the effort to get inside!

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Where to Find the Best Desserts

Helados Cometa

In my opinion, no meal (especially dinner) is complete without dessert! Head next door to Helados Cometa for some of the best ice creams in the entire city! Everything here is made from scratch. Unlike other shops in the city with an overwhelming menu, their selection is small but flawless. Ensuring every bite is made to perfection. Even their cones are handmade and have an added element of salt which wonderfully complements the sweet cream! Try the honey and pistachio, or rose and pistachio (pretty much anything with pistachio!)

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Where to Get a Drink

Casa Prunes

Just south of Cafebrería El Péndulo is the Casa Prunes. The Casa Prunes is hidden away on historic Chihuahua street. Despite its rather obscure location, it is one of the best remaining examples of Art Nouveau architecture in Roma. True art-nouveau has all but disappeared. Save for this location. It is indeed a rare bird. The architects were inspired by the natural forms of the prune tree. You can see the arching branches and even bunches of prunes hanging off the stone window carvings.

Despite its artistic impact, the house was left abandoned for years. Only recently has it been renovated. You can now step inside and enjoy a drink in this chic cocktail bar.

Gin Gin Álvaro Obregón

For those who don’t want the night to end, or like me, want to poke their heads into every building, you can safely bar hop along with the Avenida Álvaro Obregón. Gin Gin Álvaro Obregón is my favourite bar, thanks for their out-of-this-world, skeletal decor! Their cocktail menu is IMMENSE and highlights (as is the name of the bar infers) gin! As the night wears on, a DJ will sometimes play live music. While this can get very loud, if that’s your vibe, you’ll really enjoy yourself.

Licorería Limantour

Licorería Limantour is one of the most popular bars in Mexico City. It just made it onto the World’s Best Bars list at #6! One of the reasons it has made such an impact is its menu. It combines the trendiest cocktails with tried and true recipes that stand the test of time. I sampled so many drinks with flavour combinations I never imagined, but they tasted like perfection! Licorería Limantour’s locations are suberbly decorated with elegant interiors that match the friendly vibe of the place. Reservations are recommended as this place is one of the most popular spots in the city!

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Café de Nadie

I’m not going to lie; when walking by this bar, I glanced at the drinks menu and immediately walked straight based on the names of the drinks. With names like “Standing Next to Me,” “My Mistakes were made for you,” and “The Meeting Place,” I was entranced by the originality. Little did I know, this bar is known for its incredible music! The nights often feature amazing DJs spinning vintage vinyl records combined with some trendiest music in town. This is the place to come if you want to learn more about the laid-back music scene in Mexico City.

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Where to Find the Best Museums

Looking to find a way to spend the rest of your afternoon? Consider a visit to one of Roma’s many museums.

MODO Museo del Objeto

My favourite museum in Roma Norte is the MODO Museo del Objeto. I love to study vintage packaging, advertising, and graphic deisgn. These items and practical objects, dating as far back as 1810, tell a rich story about the culture and communities they served. The museum started as one man’s personal collection and today contains over 30,000 items. Bruno Newman is a researcher looking into the history of design and communications. This museum is a wonderful chance for him to share his finding with the rest of us!

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Casa Lamm Culture Center

Casa Lamm is now a fantastic gallery and cultural center. But when it was first built in 1911, it served as an aristocratic residence. Although the family never got around to living in it. The mansion was designed to be emblematic of the Euro-Mexican style. Encompassing as many European design elements as possible. But Casa Lamm manages to do it elegantly where all the ornaments somehow feel cohesive.

After changing hands several times, the house was transformed and saved from utter ruin in 1993. It was turned into the Casa Lamm Culture Center. The centre set out to serve and educate the community in academic and artistic endeavours. Today, students can receive their BA, Master or Doctorates in Art History, Museum Management, Art Curatorship and Creative Writing.

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But the public can enter the centre to explore various public areas. There is the fantastic Liberia Pegaso bookstore. Here you can find some incredible books on the art and architecture of Mexico City. You can also explore their various galleries featuring a rotating list of contemporary artists. You can also explore their gorgeous garden filled with exemplary sculptures from famous and up-and-coming Mexican artists.

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Galleria OMR

If you’re into contemporary, avant-garde art, you should make a point to visit the OMR Gallery. The OMR prides itself on representing emerging and established contemporary artists. Many of these artists are instrumental in the development of Mexico City’s contemporary art scene. The gallery is located inside an industrial-style building, perfect for featuring these contemporary works of art. The space blends together the indoors and outdoors. Allowing the artworks to pour out into the courtyard to best serve the artistic experience.

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Lulu Gallery

If indie movies aren’t your thing, head over to the western edge of Roma Sur. Here you can pop your head into the fresh exhibitions at Lulu Gallery. Lulu is an independent, Mexico City-based art project space. The gallery specializes in artworks created out of interesting materials and forms. While some galleries feature work that tends to be more about the message than form, this gallery flips that concept on its head. What you’re left with are some really really cool works of art that draw you in and yet don’t ask too much of your brain. Which I always think is a great way to approach art.

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The post Everything You Need to Know About Visiting Colonia Roma in Mexico City first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

The Ultimate Guide to Roma Sur Mexico City Walking Tour

The Creative Adventurer — Tue, 01 Feb 2022 17:41:30 +0000

If La Condesa is Mexico City’s lungs, and Roma Norte is the stomach, then Roma Sur is the heart. Roma Sur seems to run at a different pace than the north. This area is primarily residential, and therefore things seem to move a bit slower here. More leisurely. You can wander the streets, under the shade of the trees, marvelling at the colonial architecture and brightly painted buildings, without hearing a single voice during certain times of the day.

One of the things you’ll really notice about Roma Sur is the community involvement here. From environmental initiatives to community growth and artistic projects. This part of town seems to aim to transform seemingly everyday spaces to benefit the people there. They don’t want to cover every street corner with trendy restaurants and cafes. These end up primarily benefiting tourists. They want to make life for the residents who live here as beautiful and liveable it possibly can be!

This guided tour of Roma Sur will have you feeling like a local! It covers the best sights and hidden gems inside the veins of his vibrant part of Mexico City. Plus, you’ll get to indulge in some of Roma Sur‘s best culinary delights, too!

Location

The neighbourhood of Roma is located south of the Paseo de la Reforma. And just below the Historic City Centre. Roma’s central location makes it an ideal place for tourists. From here you can easily reach all the best spots in the city in no time! The Colonial Roma is so large that the area has been divided into the North and South. Avenue Yucatan is the main street that separates Roma Norte and Roma Sur. The southern boundary of the Colonia Roma Sur is formed by the new Rio de la Piedad Street Viaduct.

History of Colonial Roma

Eduardo Walter Orrin

The Creation of Roma

Porfirio Era

The Great Downfall of Roma

The Renaissance of Roma

In the last 10 years, the area has started to slowly become more and more gentrified. We are witnessing the rebirth and renaissance of Colonial Roma. But things have been a bit slower in Roma Sur. This part of town still shows the scars of the earthquake. But with those scars, comes the preservation of the traditional way of life. There are more mom-and-pop restaurants, open for generations around here. Marketplaces that the town has grown around instead of the other way around. There is no doubt, Roma Sur feels more like the real heart of the old colonia.

Where to Stay

Airbnb

If you’d like to stay in Roma Sur, there are fewer options than in the north part of the neighbourhood. Airbnb offers many low-cost options in this area of town, with rooms for as little as $50-$70 a night for an entire apartment. But you should never forget that Airbnb has been slightly problematic in Mexico City. You are causing rent inflation and apartment shortages for locals. If you want to use Airbnb, try to look for a listing where the host does not have multiple properties. This suggests that they are not just a multi-unit proprietor who could even be an international owner.

Look for a listing from someone who lives in the neighbourhood but is just looking to make some money on their unit when they aren’t in town. Also, be sure to do your best to give as much of your time and money into the neighbourhood. To ensure you are continuing to support the hyper-local community.

Ignacia $$$

Ignacia Guest House is technically located in Roma Norte but is just on the edge of the Southern borders. Under the purple blossoms of the Jacaranda tree lining the streets, you will be welcomed home. The house was originally an old 20th-century mansion that has been transformed into just six elegant suites. Since there are so few rooms, everyone who stays here feels like family.

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Hotel Boutique Roma 191

Hotel Roma 191 is a gorgeous boutique hotel specializing in elegance and comfort. It wanted to harness the spirit and history of various famous artists. They created six unique rooms inspired by those artists’ work. The result is one of the most unique and relaxing places to stay in Roma Sur. With only six rooms in the entire hotel, this truly feels like a homey environment.

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Map of Walking Tour

Le Babüin

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Ecoducto Río Piedad

Grab your coffee to go and walk south along C. Chilpancingo until you can see the big highway ahead. “A highway?” You might think. “Really? That’s where we’re headed next.” And yes, but there is something extraordinary about this particular part of the Mexico City roadway. Walking halfway across the large overpass, stop in the middle of the road. Here you’ll see a long, plant-incrusted walkway called the Ecoducto Río Piedad.

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A Living Purifier

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Parroquía de la Divina Providencia

Head out of the Ecoducto via the next overpass and continue north along C. Manzanillo. This leisurely walk with your coffee provides one of the best examples of the simple beauty of the neighbourhood. The emerald green canopy of leafy trees above you protects you from the bright morning sun. Locals mull about getting their morning groceries or calling on the local tamale biker.

Turn left on Quintana Roo to reach the humble Parroquía de la Divina Providencia. This neighbourhood church is a perfect example of Spanish Revival architecture in the Colonia Roma Sur. It is such a sweet little church, often with lovely ladies sitting outside the front gates. They sit outside, selling trinkets to raise money for the parish. An excellent place to drop in and study the fantastic murals inside if there isn’t a service going on. In such a modest church, it’s incredible to see the floor-to-ceiling mural painted on the back of the church’s nave.

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Serenna Restaurante & Café Gourmet

Head back to C. Manzanillo you reach Tlaxcala street. On the corner is this Alice in Wonderlandesque restaurant. Serenna Restaurante & Café Gourmet is famous for its hanging flowers that drape the restaurant’s entire exterior. The cafe is inspired by the TV show ‘Gossip Girl‘ and its main character Serena van der Woodsen! Truly one of those oddities you would never expect to find in Mexico City, but here it is! Personally, I like sitting out on the patio with one of their gourmet coffees. And prefer to save my stomach for brunch at our following location. But there is no doubt; this place is an Instagrammers dream!

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Borona Lonchería

Walk one block north to Aguascalientes and head inside Borona Lonchería. Borona Lonchería pops up along a bit of slice of businesses along Aguascalientes street. The small cafe has an incredible brunch menu. Their thick-cut french toast with fresh berries is definitely droll-worthy or my favourite, the Chilaquiles con huevos. If you prefer, you can also peruse their to die pastry cabinet to try a little bit of everything. This place is pet-friendly, so often, you’ll find townies with their furry friends parked up along the patio. And if you’re like me and miss your dog when you’re travelling, this place is your opportunity to sneak a few pets in

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El Hidalguense

Mercado Medellin

Now that you’re all fueled up, it’s time to venture into the most important spot in Roma Sur, the Mercado Medellin. There is no doubt that this market is the community’s beating heart. Mercado Medellín, or Medellin Market, is my favourite farmer’s market in all of Mexico City. Not only is the marketplace large enough to feature everything you’d want in one place, it somehow still retains that friendly neighbourhood atmosphere. The market never feels too crowded and definitely not like it’s only there for the tourists. Shopping here makes you feel like a local and allows you to experience an authentic Mexican market.

History

Por Siempre Vegana

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Tienda Trama

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I’m obsessed with buying mugs everywhere I travel. They feel like the perfect “souvenir” as it’s something I use every day. Pulling a mug out of the cabinet makes me so happy as I remember my travels I took to find it. A mug with one of their custom coffee blends makes the best gift to bring home! It has local flare without feeling too much like a cliche souvenir.

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Garden Huerto Roma Verde

Continuing east along Coahuila, walk until you reach the large intersection at Avenue Yucatan.. Across the street, on the east side, you will be able to spot a bright blue column. This giant structure is made of old water jugs that form the monumental entrance to the Huerto Roma Verde. Huerto Roma Verde is a cultural centre made from the recovered property once destroyed by the 1985 earthquake. The land was abandoned for 27 years and used as a dumping ground. But Paco Ayala, who initiated the project, saw the 8,000 square feet as an opportunity. He saw the space as a place for regrowth and environmental education through art.

Mercado 100

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Benito Juárez Elementary School

Take a walk south down Jalapa Street, where you find the great Benito Juárez Elementary School. Benito Pablo Juárez García was the first president of Mexico who was of indigenous origin and an important figure in the history of Mexico City. This is one of the oldest public schools in the city. The school is an incredible example of the Spanish Revival style of architecture.

Tamales Doña Emi

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Tepeji #22

Turn west along Tepeji street until you find #22 Tepeji. This unassuming street is home to the exterior shooting location of the house featured in the award-winning film ‘Roma‘ by Alfonso Cuaron. In addition to this famous sight, if you look right across the street, you’ll see the real-life childhood home of the director. A plaque at #22 Tepeji commemorates this house as the film’s shooting location.

Roma and Mexico City in 1970

Cine Tonalá

If this visit to the set of ‘Roma’ inspired you to watch more Mexican Cinema, head over to Cine Tonalá. ‘Tonalá’ is a Nahuatl word from the ancient Aztec language. It means “the place where the sun comes out” as a cinema so often brings light to our lives. Cine Tonalá is a bar, restaurant, and film auditorium that runs only independent movies. At least one of the films is always a local, Mexican production. Ask or check online to see if films airing are either in English with Spanish subtitles or have English subtitles. It’s a wonderful place to support if you are able to.

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Lulu Gallery

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Comedor de los Milagros

The upper balcony is covered in wall murals and living plants to give the vibe of being outside! It’s the most lively place to be at night, but on the weekend be prepared to wait in line as it’s one of the hottest places in town. But well worth the effort to get inside!

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I hope you enjoyed this tour of Roma Sur. Let me know in the comment if you’ve visited this part of Mexico City and how different you found Roma Sur to be compared to Roma Norte!

Happy Travels, Adventurers!

The post The Ultimate Guide to Roma Sur Mexico City Walking Tour first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.

The Best Places to Stay in Mexico City, Neighbourhood Guide

The Creative Adventurer — Tue, 04 Jan 2022 20:55:27 +0000

Mexico City is a fascinating city to visit, with many many neighbourhoods, each with its own distinct style. The city can be overwhelming for first-time visitors who look at the long list of different places to stay. And finding your perfect hotel and home base is key to ensuring you have a wonderful first-time experience. This guide will provide you with everything you need to know about the most popular neighbourhoods in Mexico City. With this guide, you’ll find the best hotels in Mexico City and the neighbourhood that suits your needs and style.

Where to Stay in Mexico City

La Condesa
Centro Histórico or Historic Centre
Zona Rosa / Colonia Juárez
San Rafael
Reforma / Juarez
Colonia Roma / La Roma
Coyoacan
Polanco
Areas to Avoid

Quick Reference Guide

La Condesa – Best neighbourhood for Cafes and Green Spaces
Historic Centre – Best neighbourhood for History Buffs
Zona Rosa – Best neighbourhood for Nightlife
San Rafael – Best neighbourhood for Theatre Lovers
La Reforma – Best neighbourhood for Modern Architecture
La Roma – Best neighbourhood for Foodies
Coyoacan – Best neighbourhood for a Community Atmosphere
Polanco – Best neighbourhood for High-End Shops and Luxury Goods

La Condesa

La Condesa is one of the trendiest neighbourhoods in Mexico City, and it is my absolute favourite place to stay. Condesa is located just southeast of Chapultepec Park. This hip neighbourhood is where you can find some of the best cafes and restaurants. But the real draw for me of this neighbourhood is the green spaces. The area is also known as the “lungs of the city,” with lush parks and tree-lined avenues around every corner. Parque México and Parque España both have beautifully landscaped gardens and fountains. They make for the best little escape from the rest of the world.

The architecture around here is phenomenal, with the largest collections of Art Deco buildings after Miami. On Sundays, the streets of Condesa come alive with live music and street vendors. A large portion of Condesa is residential with many beautiful apartment buildings and single-family homes. This allows the neighbourhood to feel like a little community and not just as a touristy area. The family atmosphere also means it is a safe place to stay. Important for first-time visitors to feel comfortable.

Sights Nearby: Parque España, Parque México, Chapultepec Castle, Museo Nacional de Antropología
Cafes/Restaurants: Cardinal Coffee House, El Moro, Lardo, Condesa Tianguis

Top Hotel for Great Amenities: Maria Condesa Hotel $$

Maria Condesa is a great mid-range option in La Condesa. The location is great, right in the heart of the La Condesa art deco area. The rooms are super stylish, and the suites come with a street view and walk-in saunas. A huge perk to staying here would be the restaurant on the terrace.

Top Hotel for a Home Away from Home: Casa Dovela $$$

Casa Dovela is a Boutique-House featuring contemporary duplexes and a beautiful one-bedroom suite. It’s a cross between a luxury home and a boutique hotel located along the art-deco streets of Condesa. The original building was left abandoned after the 1985 earthquake-like so many other residences in Condesa. But seeing its developmental potential, the hotel owners snapped it up.

They nabbed it just as the revitalization of Condesa was starting to take place. Aspects of the original architecture were preserved, but many parts of the building were modernized for aesthetics and comfort. Staying here in the heart of the neighbourhood, with a playground you can see from your window, you feel embedded into the community. Just outside your front door, a market pops up on Tuesdays where you can buy fresh produce and cook it up right at home.

Centro Histórico or Historic Centre

The historic center of Mexico City is located in the city’s heart. It is home to many of the country’s most popular tourist attractions. The historic centre was designated as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1987. It covered an area of about 450 hectares. Inside you’ll find the main plaza or Zocalo, along with all of its historical buildings. You can spend days exploring this neighbourhood without getting bored! The main downside to staying inside the historic centre is also the reason it’s such a wonderful place to stay. And that’s all the attractions, and therefore all the toursits.

Although being located close to all the historical sights gives you lots to do, it does feel like staying inside an amusement park. And when the sun goes down, the side streets are dead quiet as no locals live in the area. It is mainly a shopping and tourist district. Getting in and out of the area is also slightly problematic as many streets are closed to vehicle traffic. Which again is a huge plus when you are walking around but a downside when you arrive in a taxi with your luggage. So just be prepared to be dropped off a few streets away from your hotel and walk over to your destination.

Sights Nearby: Metropolitan Cathedral, National Palace, Templo Mayor, Alameda Central, Torre Latinoamericana
Cafes/Restaurants: Pastelería Ideal, Azul Histórico, LA OPERA, Dulcería de Celaya

Best Hotel for History Lovers: Gran Hotel Ciudad De Mexico $$$

The Gran Hotel Ciudad De Mexico is a 5-star hotel with elegant rooms and a great location bordering Zocalo square. Some of the rooms even have a view of the large square. The highlight of the hotel is the grandiose Tiffany stained glass ceiling. It looms over you as you enter framed by the art deco wrought irons balconies that surround the lobby. You can soak in the splendour while sipping a coffee inside the lobby cafe. This is the perfect luxury option in a prime location. The hotel also offers a fabulous terrace restaurant overlooking the square if you didn’t get a room with a view.

Best Hotel for a Budget: Hampton Inn & Suites Mexico City $

If you’re looking for a budget version of the Gran Hotel, look no further than the Hampton Inn & Suites. The hotel is located inside a beautifully restored historic building complete with architectural styling dating back to the 1800s. Inside you’ll find simple yet comfortable and spacious rooms with modern conveniences. Like the Gran Hotel Ciudad, this hotel also features a six-storey atrium with a stained glass ceiling. Albeit not as impressive, it is nevertheless a stunning addition to welcome you inside.

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Zona Rosa / Colonia Juárez

The Zona Rosa (Pink Zone) is located on the south side of Paseo de la Reforma Avenue. Found between Insurgentes Avenue and Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas. The area saw great expansion during the rise of Porfiriato. The Porfiriato is the time period between the late 19th and early 20th centuries when General Porfirio Díaz ruled. The previously poor neighbourhood was transformed into an elegant community.

Today, the Zona Rosa is renowned for its nightlife. It’s a favourite place for tourists due to the wide variety of venues in just a few blocks. It is a place where one can find many bars, dance clubs and restaurants. This area has also become important for the gay community of the city. Found in this part of town are many gay-friendly bars and discos. This is definitely the place to stay for those who enjoy the nightlife!

Sights Nearby: Mercado de Artesanías, The Angel of Independence, Glorieta de La Palma, Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela
Cafes/Restaurants: Chiquitito Café, Café Nin, La Casa de Toño, Tacos de Canasta de La Abuela

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Best Hotel to Feel Safe Cozy and Safe: Hotel Casa González $

Hotel Casa González has been operating inside the Zona Rosa for almost 100 years! The current owner’s grandfather built the two original homes in the mid-1920s. They were later joined together to create this unique hotel. As the hotel is located in front of the English Embassy, and just one block from the American Embassy, the area is frequented by local police officers. This is a great place to stay if you want to feel very safe. When you step through the tall gates entering the hotel, you are met with a secret garden oasis. A courtyard filled with trees and climbing vines where you’ll feel like you never want to leave. The rooms are very simple, yet each one has its own charming decor, making you feel right at home. The breakfast room is the best part where you feel like dining inside abuelas kitchen.

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Best Hotel for Swimmers: Hotel Carlota $$

Hotel Carlota is an affordable boutique hotel was built inside an old house. It transformed the interior space to honour Mexico City. A city filled with culture, design, art, memories and modernity. The rooms are stylish, and the entire hotel has an indoor/outdoor open-air floor plan. Stepping out of your room, you can look down at the amazing pool below. Perfect for those hot, humid days.

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San Rafael

Just north of the Zona Rosa is the San Rafael neighbourhood. The area features beautiful colonial architecture, 19th-century mansions and art deco apartment buildings. San Rafael was once known as the “Broadway of Mexico,” where you’d find live music and performances. Today you can still see various mid-century theatres and art galleries popping up all over the place. This area is a great place to stay if you want to remain close to the Historic Centre while not being overwhelmed by the tourists. Here you can still feel that local sense of community.

Sights Nearby: Teatro Aldama, Teatro Mexico, Museo Nacional de la Revolución, The National Museum of San Carlos, Skulls & Art Exhibition
Cafes/Restaurants: LA TALAVERA, Tacos de Canasta de La Abuela, Pakaá, Restaurante y Banquetes El Sol

Best Hotel for Environmentalists: El Patio 77 $

El patio 77 is the first eco-friendly B&B in Mexico City! The hotel is located inside a 19th-century house that has been converted into eight unique suites. Each suite has its own design, inspired by Mexico City’s cultural and artistic heritage. The heart of the house is the courtyard, where you can dine on Mexican cuisine with other hotel guests. Since the boutique hotel is so small, book in advance, as the rooms book up quick!

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Reforma / Juarez

Mexico City’s Reforma neighbourhood is located in the Benito Juarez borough. It is one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Mexico City, and yet it is also one of the most modern. It is considered almost like the Times Square of Mexico City. The streets in this area are straight and wide, which gives this area an air of sophistication. On either side of the road, you’ll stare up, up and up. Looking in awe at the amazing glass works of modern architecture. The beauty of staying in the Reforma / Juarez district is you have easy access to all the most popular neighbourhoods like; Centro Historico, Polanco, Roma, and Condesa.

The grand Paseo de La Reforma, which dominates the area, is lined with monuments and some of the most unbelievable modern architecture found anywhere in the city. On Sundays, the entire street is closed to motorists and is used by pedestrians and cyclists. Street vendors come out along with artisans selling arts and crafts on blankets on the sidewalk. It feels like a bustling festival that explodes onto the street every week!

Sights Nearby: Cafetería El Péndulo Zona Rosa, Mercado de Artesanías, Museo del Chocolate
Cafes/Restaurants: Churrería El Moro, Café Nin, Helena, La Casa de Toño

Best Hotel for a View: Sofitel Mexico City Reforma $$$

The new Sofitel Mexico City Reforma is the perfect place to indulge in a decidedly chic experience. This hotel combines the essence of Mexican culture with the spirit of French Art de Vivre. Ideally located on Paseo De La Reforma, it was one of this city’s first luxury hotels. Inside their contemporary and stylish suites, you get breathtaking views of the city and the famous Angel of Independence monument.

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Best Hotel for the Breakfast Buffet: NH Collection Mexico City Reforma $

NH Collection Mexico City Reforma is a wonderful hotel at a great price in the centre of the Reforma neighbourhood. Even the largest and most prestigious rooms, come at a reasonable price! The Family suites and Terrace rooms all have their own private balconies, which look out onto the city below. If you are looking for the best start to your day, there is no better thing than their breakfast buffet. There are so many options your eyes might think to deceive you. Freshly made eggs, Mexican pastries, all kinds of fresh-made juices, sweets and meats and more!

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Colonia Roma / La Roma

Colonia Roma also called La Roma, (or simply Roma), is one of the trendiest neighbourhoods in Mexico City. The Colonia was designed as an upper-class neighbourhood in the early twentieth century. But after the 1985 Mexico City earthquake, the district quickly became a lower-class slum. No one seemed to want to take on its redevelopment right after the quake.

In the early 2000s, restaurant owners moved into the cheap rental units in the area. And slowly they began to revitalize the district. What these entrepreneurs found were some of the most architecturally stunning buildings in the city. Over the last 20 years, it has become once more one of the most upscale areas of the city. And with the best food found anywhere! If you’re a foodie, this needs to be your home base!

Walking around the neighbourhood in the daytime, you can admire the tranquil, ivy-draped historic homes. Browse the eclectic shops and art galleries. But with the setting of the sun, you’ll find the most unique nightlife. Be sure not to miss the traditional food vendors which pop up all over the streets at night. Their brightly painted signs and delicious-smelling food wafting all along the streets.

Sights Nearby: Goodbye Folk Vintage Boutique, Pushkin Garden, Cine Tonalá
Cafes/Restaurants: Lalo!, Taquería Álvaro Obregón, Mercado Roma, Panadería Rosetta

Best Hotel for the Avant Guard: Brick Hotel $$$

Brick Hotel is a fantastic example of how the Roma combines the Old World enchantment of Mexico city with fresh, contemporary energy. The Brick Hotel was originally a 20th-century mansion designed in the classic Belle Époque style. They transformed the rooms into an authentic and avant-garde boutique hotel with 17 ultra-stylish and modern rooms.

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Best Hotel for Oasis Living: Ignacia Guest House $$$

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Each suite is designed in a different colour, blending history and Mexican artisan tradition with contemporary design. In fact, Ignacia Guest House has been internationally acclaimed for its interior design, architecture, and restoration. During the day, guests can abandon their daily routine and enjoy the historical details, gardens, and spaces. In the morning, they can have breakfast at the communal tables or in the garden under an orange tree. Book well in advance as the rooms are highly coveted by anyone in the know who visits Mexico City.

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Coyoacan

Coyoacan is a southern suburb of Mexico City. It is known for its colourful historic center, which has preserved much of its colonial-era architecture. The district was an independent Aztec town before the Spanish conquest in 1521. And being located away from the centre the neighbourhood remained largely undeveloped until the 20th century. There is a slowness to this part of town which I love. A restful atmosphere that contrasts the explosive energy of Mexico City’s business district. This is where I always come to relax. To make my way to their various parks and gardens to read or paint. Whiling away the sunny days under the umbrellas of chic cafes and fantastic restaurants.

This was also the neighbourhood where Frida Kahlo was born and died. It was also where she lived with her husband, Diego Rivera. Frida’s fingerprint is embedded into the essence of this part of town. And her colourful and creative personality is reflected on every street corner and plaza you visit.

Sights Nearby: Plaza Jardin Hidalgo, Coyoacan Market, Frida Kahlo Museum, Museo Casa de León Trotsky
Cafes/Restaurants: LOS AMANTES Café & Bistro, Cafe El Jarocho, Café Avellaneda, Mesón Antigua

Best Hotel for a Peaceful Getaway: Casa Jacinta Guest House $$

One of my favourite parts about staying in Coyaocan is that there aren’t any large hotels. Instead, you have a wide selection of fantastical Guest Houses to choose from. Steps away from the famous Café El Jarocho coffee shop is the Casa Jacinta Guest House. This old traditional house has 11 rooms of different sizes, a haven of serenity and beautiful traditional Mexican decoration. The ivy-covered balconies, brightly tiled bathrooms and peaceful gardens transport you to a bygone time. Book a room that opens up on the ground floor into the lush, green garden for an extra special treat. Stepping out to that view every morning is the best way to start your day.

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Best Hotel for a Home away from Home: H21 Hospedaje Boutique $$

Just off of the central Plaza Jardin Hidalgo is the H21 Hospedaje Boutique Hotel. The house, now a hotel, was originally built in 1928. It was remodelled into a Mexican-contemporary style that will delight all those that pass through the doors. Their suites also feature a living room, sofa and kitchen. Making it the best place to stay for a longer vacation where you can truly feel at home. Venture out to the colourful Coyoacan Market and bring home some fresh fruits, veggies and meat. Try and test your hand at a home-cooked meal! If you don’t want to do any cooking on your vacation, book one of their terrace rooms. Here you can sit outside in your own private outdoor space sipping on michelada and mescals.

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Polanco

Located in the northwest and above the Bosque de Chapultepec, Polanco is an upscale residential and business district. The leafy side streets are dotted with Spanish Colonial Revival mansions and luxe apartments. At the same time, the main drags are filled with luxury brands and upscale international restaurants. As it is one of the most expensive areas in the city, Polanco is also very safe. So this neighbourhood would be ideal for families planning to visit Mexico City. Be prepared to spend a pretty penny in this area! But for those looking for extravagance, you’ve come to the right place!

Sights Nearby: Xinú Perfumes, Parque Lincoln, Bosque de Chapultepec, Museo Nacional de Antropología
Cafes/Restaurants: Pujol, Dulce Patria, Rosa Negra, ENO, Boicot Café Polanco,

Best Hotel for Architecture Buffs: Camino Real Polanco Mexico $$

The Camino Real Polanco is a beautiful hotel/museum designed by renowned architect Ricardo Legorreta. The space opened its doors to the public on July 25th, 1968. When it opened it was famous for combining modern features with shapes clearly reminiscent of prehispanic pyramids. Elements from these merge together to create an architectural masterpiece! There is something so nostalgic about the 60’s decor, which is so atmospheric. Plus, as it is not a high-end luxury hotel, the rooms come at a reasonable price for the area! If you have a little more cash to spend, book one of the suites as the retro decor is incredible. The view out towards the best architectural features of the hotel is wonderfully highlighted.

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Bets Hotel for Interior Design: Orchid House Polanco $$$

Nothing feels more like Mexican royalty than a stay at the Orchid House Polanco. The Orchid House provides visitors with the exquisite feeling of being at home with the comforts of a hotel. Hidden away inside a 100-year-old mansion, the hotel is filled with blue and coloured stained glass, antique barro floors hand-painted with images of Don Quijote and Shakespeare. There are also neoclassic mouldings and rich, traditional antique pink cantera stone. Each room is exquisitely designed and features textiles and handmade decorations from local artisan communities.

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Areas to Avoid

Just as it’s important to discuss where to stay, it’s also important to know where to avoid. Remember, it’s never worth saving a bit of money if it puts you at any risk.

Tepito

The most famous neighbourhood to avoid in Mexico City is Tepito. Tepito is the ‘Barrio Bravo’ as only the bravest tourists and even locals dare to visit. Tepito is just north of the Historic Centre, so it’s easy to find yourself getting too close, especially with the lure of their bustling open-air markets. Just remember not to cross and stay north of Manuel de la Peña y Peña street, and you should be fine.

Doctores

While exploring around La Roma, keep west of the Avenue Cuauhtémoc. Just east of that street is the neighbourhood of Doctores. The only exception is to visit the Arena Mexico, where you can see the phenomenon of Lucha Libre wrestling. When arriving or leaving the arena, be sure to take an uber door to door to avoid walking around in this area at night.

Benito Juarez International Airport

The area around the airport is very, very densely populated with a high crime rate. The area isn’t much to look at either, so even if you are just staying in the city for a night, it’s always worth getting a hotel in the city centre to avoid staying around this neighbourhood.

Xochimilco

Xochimilco is one of my favourite out-of-the-city destinations featuring the iconic colourful trajineras in which guests can ride inside to enjoy a peaceful day on the canal. That being said, the areas around Xochimilco aren’t great for tourists, and you should just make Xochimilco a day trip rather than a place to settle down.

Iztapalapa

Iztapalapa is located to the southeast of the city centre. This area doesn’t contain any popular tourist attractions so you wouldn’t naturally find yourself there. Nevertheless, it’s important to note that this neighbourhood is used by drug traffickers and should be avoided.

I hope this guide helps you find the perfect place to stay to make the most of your trip to Mexico City!

Happy Travels, Adventurer!

The post The Best Places to Stay in Mexico City, Neighbourhood Guide first appeared on The Creative Adventurer.