If you’re travelling to Hobart and looking to get away from the busy tourist centre, then head across the river to the beautiful and peaceful neighbourhood of Bellerive. Bellerive is definitely one of those little suburbs that is wonderful to visit. It is a place that gives you the feeling of what real life in Hobart must really feel like, away from the tourist attractions. But there is still so much fantastic history, beautiful architecture and wondrous beached steeped in this little beach town! Despite being off the traditional tourist track, you can find amazing things to see and do here in Bellerive.
Archeological digs in the area have uncovered ancient shell middens in the area around Bellerive. A shell midden refers to an underground mound composed of shells or molluscs. These are indications that the indigenous people of Tasmania, the Mouheneener tribes, once used this area as their hunting grounds. Bellerive was first settled in 1820 and was named Kangaroo Point. Most likely due to the overwhelming amount of kangaroos once living here before the urban landscape drove them out. As the settlement built up and the kangaroos dispersed, it was renamed ‘Bellerive’ in 1830. The name “Bellerive” means “beautiful river banks” as the area is indeed surrounded by incredible waterways, immensely influential in the development of the city.
To get to Bellerive, you can take the Tasman Bridge across the river. As you drive over the bridge you get a gorgeous view all across Hobart. There is a public parking lot marked on the map where you can leave the car. It is also from this spot that we start our self-guided tour. If you don’t have a car, Uber services Bellerive. You can easily use that service to get over to this suburb and back to the mainland.
One of the reasons that this tiny settlement flourished so quickly was because it was the meeting point of various large roads from the farming districts to the mouth of the river. From the river, goods would be boarded onto ships or ferries and sent all over Tasmania. One of my favourite views in Bellerive is standing here at the edge of the peninsula. From here you can look out over the city of Hobart and the towering view of Kunanyi/Mount Wellington. You’ll notice a narrow paved pathway on the edge of the parking lots; this is the Clarence Foreshore Trail. The trail follows the shores of the Derwent River and is a popular spot for local out for some exercise or to walk their dogs.
Across from the parking lot is an old yellow-painted brick house with red trimmings. The place named the ‘Villa‘ was built in 1858. It was made for Richard Morgan Junior, who opened the first lodging houses in the area in 1867. The Bellerive Hotel was one of the community’s finest establishments until 1939 when a huge bushfire destroyed it. Today the building has been repaired and used as an office complex although much of the original architecture has been reconstructed.
The walking trail allows riverside views of the area as you walk parallel to Victoria Esplanade. Just rounding the bend, you’ll see the red brick exterior of No. 2 Victoria Esplanade, also called ‘The Moorings.‘ This house was built in 1904 for the prosperous accountant Owen Tinning. Many of the vast manor houses along Victoria Esplanade feature fantastic examples of Federation architecture. I adore Federation architecture as it is uniquely Australian. The style was adapted from British influences of the Queen Anne style, Edwardian style and the Arts and Crafts trend.
The Federations style is marked by prominent verandah designs. This addition was unique to Australia as the British climate would never lend itself to such ornamental use of the outdoors. These verandahs feel like the heart of the home and are richly decorated. Australian flora and fauna are usually taken into consideration and carefully woven into the decorations of the house. The brickwork on these types of homes is typically deep red or dark brown. Another unique feature of these homes are the circular windows, also called bullseye windows, that you can see at #2. The house also contains the Federations Queen Anne style roof that features terracotta tiles with decorative gables and even a little turret.
At No. 9 Victoria Esplanade, we find the fantastical architecture marvel called the ‘Fairview.’ This gorgeous home was the residence of Robert O’May. Robert O’May was the Bellerive ferry master. He was born right here in Bellerive in 1872. The O’May family was responsible for the ferry service from Hobart to Belleview. Before the Tasman Bridge was built, this service was the only way residents could cross over to Hobart and back. The ferry master made a name for himself and became one of the wealthiest men in the area.
The beautiful house features incredible wrought iron lace designs on the verandah. You’ll notice that the iron fencing features birds woven into the arrangements if you look closely. This use of the iron lace wrought iron is another element of Federations architecture. During the 19th century, Australia had a surplus of wrought iron. They loved using it to embellish the exterior of their homes with ornamental designs. As exemplified here, these designs often included Australian birds, flowers, coats of arms, rising suns and even animals like the kangaroo!
At the end of Victoria Esplanade, we reach the Kangaroo Bluff Fort Historic Site. The Kangaroo Bluff Fort Historic Site was built around 1884. Just like the Hobart Battery, these towers were constructed as a means of defence and observation. The new settlement was greatly afraid of incoming threats from the water and they went about building these Batteries. Thankfully, none of them were ever used but they remain wonderful historic examples of these types of defences.
Today you can walk up the hill where you’ll still find all the original defensive cannons. These were installed to protect the colony and manned by the guards. Walking around the old stone structure, you can see some of the old underground storage rooms. In there the soldiers would have stored equipment and ammunition. These rooms are marked with red-painted wooden doors and shutters embedded into the hillside.
Towards the north end of the park is the Bluff House, built in 1885. This late Victorian home was made by Robert Hutchinson. Hutchinson was an English architect who moved to Australia. There was a great need for these trained artists and technicians. Hutchinson started his life in Australia in Melbourne but eventually made his way to Tasmania, and moved to Bellerive. He was famous in the area for his residences and lighthouses designs along the coast. Many of these structures are still under the National Trust and can be sen today. The old Bluff house has since been renovated into an airbnb. This means you can stay inside a piece of history if you wish to spend a night in Bellerive!
Along Victoria Esplanade, head up King Street and make a short detour to see the Old School and Residence. The school was one of Bellerive’s first, built in old gothic style with heavy stonework. The most impressive feature is the 24-panel window which is located at either end of the schoolroom. It was once used as a hostel, but today is a private business. To get a good look you’ll just have to peek over the fence but it’s amazing to see despite all the changing residents how much of the original building remains.
Continuing along the Clarence Trail, we walk along the water’s edge until we reach Bellerive Beach. Bellerive Beach is one of the most scenic beaches I’ve ever visited. The bright blue waters of the River Derwent juxtaposed against the stunning view of Kunanyi / Mount Wellington in the background is truly spectacular. The water is generally pretty calm here so it’s great for swimming. The beach is also protected from the southern ocean swells by the South Arm Peninsula and Bruny Island. The beach is flanked by a stretch of blue gum trees filled with a variety of seabirds. Unlike many overpopulated beaches in Sydney or Melbourne, which have had much of their natural resources removed to make room for the tourists, this beach still looks like a slice of Australia as it would have been before it was colonized by the British.
Opposite the beach is a large green park, aptly named Bellerive Beach Park. Towering over the trees behind the garden is the modern Blundstone Arena. Today the Blundstone Arena is where you’ll find Tasmania’s premier cricket and Australian Rules football is played. But the history of games being played in this area dates back to 1884. Back then, the patch of green land here was still used to play cricket. Cricket was a popular pastime brought to Australia from Britain. It quickly became one of the most popular sports in Tasmania. In 1913, the land used for the games was even declared city council property. They transformed it, levelled the ground and fenced off the surroundings but it was still a simple patch of grass. In the 70s, construction of the arena began and it is now one of the biggest draws to Bellerive.
Walk back towards our starting point, via old Queen Street. Queen Street was initially called Bidassoa Street but was renamed in 1897 to commemorate Queen Vicotria’s jubilee. Queen Street is a straight shot from the old ferry port down to the beach. For over a hundred years, this street was used by day-trippers. These day-trippers would arrive from either Hobart or elsewhere in Tasmania to enjoy the beauty of this remote beach town. Today, this street is one of the loveliest to wander down. You can study some of the incredible historical Australian architecture as you go. #34 Queen Street is a gorgeous two-storey brick building featuring elements of Federation Arts and Crafts design style.
One of the most popular facets of Federation Arts and Crafts style is highlighting the structure of the building. This means underscroing elements like the beans, posts and rafts. Rather than painting them the same colour as the rest of the house, these elements (like the window frames and dormers) were painted red. This adds a spectacular ornamental quality to the home. But the geometric stained glass on the second storey is what really makes the building so beautiful to me.
At the corner of Scott Street and Queen street, we find a tiny old stone St Marks Church or St Mark’s Chapel of Ease. The church was built in 1852 out of local sandstone. It is one of those rustic churches that feels so in line with the simplicity of early Tasmanian design. The church was made by convict architect James Blackburn. Despite his convict beginnings, Blackburn is considered one of the greatest engineers of his period in Australia.
One of the most unique parts of the old church grounds are the old tombstones that still remain on site. These are the remains of the pioneers of Bellerive, some dating back to 1840. Although there were once 121 people buried here, only a few of the headstones still remain.
The church is not in use as a religious site today but serves as the meeting place of the Bellerive scout troop. The scout troop was responsible for the church’s restoration in the 1970s. It seemed only fitting that for their efforts they would be rewarded with a permanent location for the troupe.
Across the street from the church is an old single-storey house. The house is made of rough stone blocks and therefore has a very rugged appearance. The house was built in 1860 for Dr. Desailly. In later years it was used as the primary residence for the priests attending St. Mark’s chapel. Although its relatively simple appearance makes it feel not as imposing, it was considered a grande mansion when it was first built. The house contained a breakfast parlour, dining room, drawing room, four bedrooms, two kitchens and three servants’ bedrooms!
The green trim painted on the roof, gables, and verandah gives the building a unique touch. But the most exciting part of this house is the scalloped decorations on the columns located on the porch. This little added ornamentation on an otherwise plain house really stands out.
The tiny white cottage at #25 is also called ‘Sadler’s Cottage‘ and was built in 1838. While it’s been minimally renovated over the years, the main elements of the old sandstone Georgian design remain. Georgian architecture consisted of an iconic hipped roof, central door with flanking casement windows, and white plaster walls with sandstone quoin blocks on the corners.
On the corner of Crown Street, we find a slightly unusual house at #19 Queen Street. The 1830’s style house was used as a school and post office in the early days of the settlement. Later used as a boarding house in the 1930s. The most interesting part of this house is the attic space with skillion dormer windows looking out onto the street.
A bright green hipped roof and arched entrance marks the Old Watermans Arms at #5 Queen Street. This house was built in the 1850s and was initially used for religious services for the Congregational Church. Later on, the house was used as an inn for visitors.
On the corner of Petchey Street, we find two of the most historic sandstone buildings in Bellerive. The first is the old post office, built in 1897. The beautiful clock tower faces out onto the street, where you can still make out the impressive sandstone carvings. When it was built, the city spent a whopping 635 pounds on its construction. This would amount to about 83,078 pounds today!!! Currently, the building is used as the Genealogical Society Library and the Sound Preservation Society Museum.
In the center of the road is a large stone memorial with a lampost on top. This is the Boer War Memorial. The memorial is dedicated to local resident Frank Morrisby who died in South Africa during the war. Morrisby was the last Tasmanians to die during World War One. Despite his name being only one of the many Tasmanians who served, the structure still represents all those who lost their lives.
Opposite the old Post office is the Bellerive Community Arts Centre. This brick and sandstone building was built in 1842 and first established as the original Police station in the Bellerive. The sandstone section of the building was the original cell block and the brick addition is one of the newer sections of the building.
Turn down Petchey street where you’ll find Natone Cottage. This beautiful stone house with white iron lace columned verandah was built in 1863 for Hobart judge Sir Valentine Fleming. As judges probably weren’t the most popular in a convict community, many of them opted for more private, remote estates. The Welsh slate roof is original, as is the lush old garden. But the view from this vantage point is one of the best reasons to hike up to the cottage.
Turning right along Campbell Street, make your way to the large sign with the words “Cripps DT & JL Bakehouse” outside. This is Bellrive’s most infamous bakery. They are known to have the best scallop pie in Hobart! Scallop pie is thought to be the national dish of Tasmania. It was invented in 1850 by Joseph Keen. The pie is made with fresh Tasmanian scallops, the best of which still have their bright orange roe, mixed with the curry and vegetables. If you’re in the mood for a sweet treat, then you need to try one of their many flavours of donuts! Something for everyone that is for sure.
Being a waterfront city, the Yacht club in Bellerive has long been one of the most popular sports in the town. The yacht club was established in 1926 to bring more people into Bellerive. Today, the club has over 800 members. Walking around the harbour, you can spot some truly incredible yachts and maybe even catch a few boats on their way out for a day at sea.
As we make our way back to the parking lot where we started our tour, make a stop at #10 Cambridge Rd. This is the location of the oldest village store, once the Bellerive General Store. It still sells food to this day just as it would have hundreds of years earlier. The building is now Belles Burgers and one of Bellerive’s best restaurants.
Along Cambridge road, you’ll see the remains of the S S Kosciusko, one of the longest-serving ferries. The boat carried passengers off from Sydney Harbour starting in 1911. It survived a collision with the ferry Baragoola in December 1926. In 1975 she was brought to Hobart after the Tasman Bridge disaster. The construction of the Tasman Bridge was supposed to end the need for ferries to and from Bellerive. But in 1975 the central part of the bridge collapsed, killing 12 people. The S S Kosciusko arrived and served the city for many years until the bridge was fixed. In 1991 the boat was too old and run down to continue servicing passengers and most of it was scrapped. The lower part of the stern remains as an attraction attached to the Waterfront Hotel pub.
The Clarence Hotel, now named the Waterfront Hotel, has stood here since 1879 and is one of the earliest surviving hotels in the area. The design of the hotel isn’t anything special but the most notable part of the building are the old sandstone cornerstone used to frame the building.
For lunch or dinner, you need to stop off at ‘Hooked on Bellerive.’Hooked on Bellerive is a total hidden gem. Although it’s small in size, located on a literal floating pontoon, the interior is a gorgeous blend of nautical design and modern aesthetics. The glass windows along the water’s edge make you feel like you’re dining right on the water. And the windows even open right up on hot days. The food is as traditional as can be with a small menu consisting of fried fish, scallops, oysters and calamari served with a side of chips and salad. The wonderfully friendly staff here makes you feel like family.!
Heading back to central Hobart, you’ll get a beautiful view of the city at night as you cross back over the Tasman Bridge. The lights of the city dancing off the dark water is a sight to see and another reason to come on over to Bellerive. Hopefully, you enjoyed this tour and discovered some of the unique natural features of Bellerive and learned a bit more about the amazing Tasmanian architecture found in this suburban neighbourhood.
References: Tasmanian National Trust | On the Convict Trail
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