Having visited Italy in spring and summer, I already knew it was a place brimming with world-class food, stunning architecture, and history tucked into every corner. But I had never seen it at Christmastime. As someone who loves exploring holiday traditions around the world, I was curious to discover what secrets the Italian season might reveal.
Italy doesn’t tend to top the list of classic winter getaways. It doesn’t have the massive celebrations of New York, the snow-covered forests of Scandinavia, or the expansive Christmas markets of Germany. However, after spending last Christmas in Florence, Venice, Bologna and Padua, I was amazed at the festive experience I found! The streets were filled with twinkle lights, the air smelled of roasted chestnuts, and every bakery window was ablaze with panettone and festive sweets.
That said, there were a few hiccups I hadn’t really seen coming. Some museums were closed without much notice, information was hard to find, trains were more packed than I expected, and the sun seemed to disappear way too early in the day. But with a bit of flexibility and plenty of tasty snacks, those little bumps felt less like problems and more like part of the experience. If you’re dreaming of your own Italian holiday escape, here are my best tips for making the most of a winter visit and soaking up the magic that only December in Italy can offer.
Christmas in Italy isn’t just a single day; it’s a whole season. The festivities begin around mid to early December with the Feast of the Immaculate Conception and run through January 6, the day of the Epiphany (known locally as La Befana). Between those dates, life slows down.
Plan your must‑see visits around these closures. In Florence, I discovered that the Uffizi was closed on both Christmas Day and New Year’s. However, in Venice, St. Mark’s Basilica remains open for Mass and welcomes visitors who want to experience this seasonal service.
Generally, Christmas travel to Italy is less expensive than summer travel, particularly in terms of airfare and hotel rates. Although December is considered a low season in many parts of Italy, demand does increase during the holiday season, especially from December 23 to New Year’s. Festive events and celebrations are frequently held in major cities like Rome, Florence, and Bologna, drawing both locals and tourists from abroad. Hotel rates during these holiday periods are typically lower than peak summer rates, although they may be higher than the rates for the rest of the winter.
It’s important to book your lodging early if you’re visiting over Christmas and New Year. Popular hotels fill up fast, and prices rise quickly. We were lucky to get a great deal at the historic Hotel Loggiato Dei Serviti in Florence, the week before Christmas. In Venice, we even found a Grand Canal view room at the Locanda Leon Bianco Hotel for a fraction of the summer price. Apart from December 25 and 26, most of our stay was surprisingly affordable.
Selecting less crowded neighbourhoods or neighbouring cities can also help you find more affordable accommodations and a more intimate, local experience. Nevertheless, Christmas in Italy offers a more economical and distinctively atmospheric alternative to the crowded and costly summer months, despite slightly higher prices around the major holiday days.
When it comes to airfare, prices can be a bit of a mixed bag. Flights to Italy are usually cheaper outside of the summer months, but they tend to spike around peak holiday travel dates, especially for departures between December 20 and 24 and returns around January 1 and 2. To score the best deals, try flying midweek, booking as far in advance as possible, and being flexible with your travel dates and airports. If you’re planning to travel over Christmas, start tracking flights early and book as soon as you spot a reasonable price; it’s likely to sell out quickly.
Flying into alternative hubs, such as Milan or Bologna, rather than Rome or Venice, can sometimes offer lower fares. One tip is to avoid flying in or out of Florence in winter. The airport is known for weather issues, especially fog, which often makes it hard for planes to land. Delays and cancellations are common during this season. It’s usually easier to fly into Rome or Venice and take the train to Florence instead.
Large cities like Florence, Milan, Bologna and Venice stay lively throughout the holidays, with glowing lights, bustling markets, and festive concerts even on the quietest days. In contrast, smaller towns often shut down almost entirely between December 24 and 26, with closed restaurants and empty streets that can leave you feeling stranded if you’re not prepared. By using bigger cities as your base and timing your countryside visits outside those closures, you can enjoy the best of both worlds: quiet, scenic escapes followed by a return to warm dinners and evening strolls under sparkling city lights.
While many restaurants, shops, and museums close on December 25, that doesn’t mean your day has to feel empty. It’s a great chance to appreciate a more peaceful side of your destination. Bundle up and take a morning walk through nearly empty piazzas, stroll along calm streets decorated with festive lights, or visit a church to see the nativity scenes up close. We were in Venice on Christmas Day, and it felt like we had certain areas of the city all to ourselves. A quiet, dreamlike atmosphere that’s rare to experience at other times of the year.
Tables fill up quickly around Christmas and New Year’s, especially in smaller cities where family-run spots often close for the holidays. In Bologna, there was one local place I had my heart set on. Luckily, I’d booked early. When we arrived, a sign out front confirmed they were fully booked for the entire week with no chance of walk-ins. I was beyond relieved to see my name on the list.
Yes, advance planning takes away a little spontaneity, but it gives you peace of mind and saves you from wandering cold streets in search of an open table. This is especially true for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. Some restaurants do stay open and serve special holiday menus but, reservations are essential for these meals.
If you make a reservation online, it’s worth confirming. More than once, even though I’d booked online and even received a confirmation email, I showed up at a closed door and a “Closed for Christmas” sign. Google hours can also be very unreliable (even outside of Christmastime), and holiday schedules are often subject to change without notice. To avoid this, call the restaurant on the day of your booking or check their social media for updates. If you can’t, always have a backup place in mind nearby. It saved me more than once.
One of the best tips I can give is to ask your hotel for help. Staff usually know which restaurants will stay open on Christmas Day and can even secure hard-to-get tables. In Venice, they found us an unforgettable family-run spot on Christmas Eve, well away from the tourist hubbub. It turned out to be one of our best meals of the trip!
If you find yourself in a small town where everything is closed on Christmas Day, or discover that the few restaurants still open are fully booked, this can actually turn into a wonderful opportunity to cook your own festive Italian meal. Shopping at a local market the day before is not only affordable, but also a truly memorable experience. Italian markets in December are bursting with seasonal produce, think bright citrus, wild mushrooms, fresh herbs, fennel, chestnuts, and leafy greens, as well as rich cheeses, handmade pasta, cured meats, and freshly baked bread. Add a bottle of local wine and you have everything you need for a beautiful holiday spread. Just be sure to shop early, ideally on the 23rd or early on the 24th, as many markets and shops close early on Christmas Eve.
One of my favourite memories was putting together a Christmas Day meal in Venice, even though we didn’t have a kitchen in our hotel. We made do with what we had, shopping the day before at the local markets and picking up a mix of prepared and ready-to-serve items. There were marinated artichokes, fresh bread, a wedge of aged cheese, some beautifully sliced prosciutto, and a bottle of prosecco to toast the day. For dessert, we had panettone with a little tub of mascarpone we found at a grocery store. It wasn’t fancy, but it was festive, comforting, and felt completely tied to the place and season.
The weather in December in Italy can vary significantly depending on your location. You can anticipate chilly, rainy days in places like Florence and Bologna. In the winter, Venice’s distinctive lagoon is home to some warmer weather than Florence, but on windy days, the dampness can feel bone-chilling. The weather in nearby Padua is comparable, though typically a little drier, which makes it more comfortable for day trips or lengthy walks.
Don’t let the thought of cold, chilly, or rainy days keep you from Italy at Christmas. While the weather can be a bit damp, the benefits far outweigh a little drizzle.
Winters are generally much milder in Rome. The days are frequently sunny and crisp, making them ideal for exploring antiquities and open piazzas without the summer crowds, though you’ll still need a jacket. With daytime highs frequently in the low to mid-teens degrees Celsius, other well-liked southern locations, such as Naples, the Amalfi Coast, and Sicily, are even warmer. Although beach days are out of the question, these locations provide a milder winter getaway with fewer visitors and a slower tempo.
Warm, waterproof shoes are a must for Italy in December, not due to snow, which is rare, but to stay dry in the rain and comfortable when the chill sets in, especially after sunset. Cobblestone streets, beautiful as they are, become slick and slippery when wet, so be sure to wear sturdy boots or shoes with a good grip. I packed my heavy-duty winter boots, which I wear in Canada during the winter, and while they occasionally felt a bit too much, they kept my feet warm and dry every step of the way. I never once regretted bringing them.
Layers will be your best friend! While a full-on down puffer might be overkill, a classic wool coat strikes the perfect balance, warm enough to keep the chill out and stylish enough to blend right in with the locals. Italy in December isn’t as cold as Christmas in Sweden, but I still found a scarf and gloves absolutely essential. I also rarely went a day without wearing a hat. The cold sets in quickly, especially in the evenings, and a cozy hat made all the difference. I packed a few festive ones, which not only kept me toasty but added a touch of holiday cheer to every outfit.
Thermal layers were truly the unsung heroes of my trip! They were thin enough to disappear right under my jeans or a dress, but they trapped heat like magic. I also relied on Merino wool socks to keep my feet toasty without ever getting sweaty. And for those days when I needed just a little bit more warmth without looking like the Michelin Man, heat-tech camisoles or a lightweight fleece were absolute lifesavers. Be sure to pack a compact umbrella that can withstand strong winds and rain. I was especially grateful for mine while walking along the misty canals of Venice at dawn, where the fog settled low and the stone paths glistened beneath my feet.
Looking for more details? Check out our dedicated post on what to pack for Christmas and winter in Italy!
If you’re visiting Venice in December, be prepared for the possibility of Acqua Alta (high water), a natural high-tide phenomenon most common in the late autumn and winter. The flooding is usually minor, short-lived, and localized, typically affecting only the lowest areas like Piazza San Marco for a few hours around midday. To stay dry, download a tide forecast app and watch for the sirens that warn of higher water. If the forecast suggests high water, pack a pair of cheap plastic overshoes (you can easily find them online). They’re much cheaper to bring with you than to buy at inflated prices once you’re there.
The city is well-prepared, installing elevated wooden walkways (passerelle) in key areas, and most sights and restaurants remain open. While it may be a slight inconvenience, seeing St. Mark’s Basilica reflected in the flooded square is a truly unique, memorable part of a winter visit. We didn’t have an acqua alta (which I was honestly a bit disappointed about, as it would have been unique to see), but I was glad to have the booties anyway, just in case!
While Italy in December isn’t Arctic-level cold, the damp chill can definitely creep in after a few hours outdoors. The good news? Italians have mastered the art of staying warm without missing a beat. One of my favourite ways to escape the cold was by ducking into a museum or church. Not only do they offer a break from the elements, but you also get a dose of history and beauty while you thaw out. In Florence, I spent nearly an hour in the Medici Chapel just soaking in the quiet and warmth after a breezy morning stroll along the Arno.
Cafés are another winter haven. Grabbing a cappuccino at the bar, or better yet, lingering over a hot chocolate thick enough to eat with a spoon, is a great excuse to rest your legs and warm your hands. In Venice, we’d dip into tiny cafés just for a few minutes of heat and a fresh pastry before heading back into the fog.
Shopping also offers a welcome escape from the cold. Whether you’re browsing designer boutiques in Florence, hunting for artisanal gifts under Bologna’s porticoes, or wandering through Venice’s glass shops, retail therapy doubles as a cosy indoor activity. Many shops are beautifully decorated for the holidays, adding to the festive feel. It’s a great way to stay warm and pick up a few special souvenirs (or last-minute Christmas gifts!).
At night, the same idea applies, only this time, trade in your afternoon espresso for a glass of wine. Italy is home to some of the world’s finest wines, and there’s no shortage of cozy wine bars to settle into once the sun goes down. Whether you’re sipping a bold Chianti in Florence, a crisp Soave in Padua, or a smooth Valpolicella in Venice, it’s the perfect way to warm up and unwind after a chilly evening stroll. Don’t underestimate the power of these little warm-ups!
In December, sunset in northern Italy can be as early as 4:30–5:00 p.m. Museums and shops are also often on a shorter schedule, closing by 5:00-6:00 p.m. Therefore, plan your sightseeing for mornings and early afternoons. Evenings are best for strolling through illuminated streets, sipping hot chocolate or mulled wine at a Christmas market, or attending a concert in one of the city’s historic churches.
Italy’s trains are your best friend at Christmastime, especially when travelling between major cities. They’re warm, reliable, scenic and often faster than flying. Trust me, you want to avoid the airports at all costs during the holidays when you can! However, even the trains do get significantly busier around the holidays, particularly on 23–24 December and 1–2 January. When we travelled from Florence to Venice on December 21st, our train was already packed with passengers coming from Milan. Despite having reserved seats, the entire carriage’s luggage racks were overflowing, both overhead and in the designated storage areas near the doors. We ended up balancing our hand luggage on our laps and leaving our suitcases loose in the corridor near the bathrooms.
One lesson we learned was to try to travel earlier in the day, the first train if possible, when trains are typically less crowded. Also, consider upgrading to first class for the holidays if your budget allows. The trip is much more comfortable when travelling with larger bags because train cars are usually roomier, have fewer passengers, and have more ample luggage storage. Or travel light, if possible, or opt for small bags that are easier to fit in overhead bins. It’s also worth arriving at the station early so you can board as soon as the doors open and claim a spot for your bags before space runs out.
Train travel during the holidays is often more expensive, particularly as Christmas approaches. We ended up paying a lot more for the tickets to our last-minute day tripto Bologna than we would have if we had done a little more preparation. Booking in advance can significantly impact availability and cost, even for short regional trips, so it’s worthwhile to secure your day trips in advance to avoid stress and save money.
Book directly with Trenitalia (the national railway) or Italo (a private high-speed operator) for the best train fares in Italy, particularly during the holidays. Both offer access to the most affordable official fares and reliable service. Trainline is a great aggregator that displays both Trenitalia and Italo options for comparing routes and costs. Another easy-to-use website for booking trains throughout Italy is Omio.
Christmas is one of the most evocative times to visit Italian churches, even if you’re not a religious person. There is an atmosphere unlike any other time of year as the nation’s cathedrals and basilicas come alive with candlelight, music, and tradition. With choirs resonating beneath centuries-old domes and the aroma of incense filling the air, midnight mass at St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice or the Duomo in Florence is genuinely unforgettable. Additionally, many churches feature ornate nativity scenes, or presepi, which are often highly detailed and represent local traditions and customs.
When I attended Midnight Mass at St. Mark’s in Venice, the experience was both magical and surprisingly intense. We arrived about 45 minutes before the service and still barely found a chair, with hundreds of people streaming in behind us. The basilica glowed with golden mosaics as the lights dimmed, and the sound of the choir carried through the vast, shimmering space. It felt as though the centuries of history surrounding us came alive in that moment, making the long wait and the crowd well worth it. If you plan to attend Midnight Mass in any famous church in Italy, arrive early, ideally an hour or more, to secure a seat and take in the atmosphere before the service begins.
Italy’s Christmas markets may be smaller and less grandiose than those in Germany or Austria, but they’re packed with charm, tradition, and a festive spirit. Each city puts its own spin on the holiday market, often blending local craftsmanship, seasonal treats, and regional culture into a cozy, celebratory atmosphere. You’ll find wooden stalls selling everything from hand-carved ornaments to wool scarves and gourmet panettone, all set against a backdrop of twinkling lights and the scent of roasted chestnuts.
In Florence, the most well-known market takes place in Piazza Santa Croce, where alpine-style wooden huts sell artisanal gifts, mulled wine, and festive snacks, all set against the backdrop of one of the city’s most beautiful churches. Bologna comes alive with two traditional markets: the Fiera di Natale, set up near the cathedral, and the Antica Fiera di Santa Lucia, tucked under the city’s iconic porticoes along Strada Maggiore, both offering nativity figurines, sweets, and seasonal decorations.
In Padua, head to Prato della Valle, one of Europe’s largest squares, where you’ll find a bustling market accompanied by light projections on nearby historic buildings, adding a touch of theatre to your shopping experience.
Other cities also offer unique market experiences. In Rome, visit Piazza Navona for a traditional fair with toys, sweets, and carousel rides. Bolzano and Merano in the South Tyrol region are home to some of Italy’s most picturesque markets, characterized by a strong Alpine influence and a stunning mountain backdrop. Even coastal towns like Sorrento host smaller markets that blend seaside charm with festive cheer. It’s important to note that most Christmas markets in Italy begin in late November or early December and close by Christmas Eve. Some remain open a few days longer, but the atmosphere is most vibrant in mid-December. If you’re visiting Italy specifically for the markets, plan your trip accordingly to avoid arriving after they’ve closed.
Card acceptance in Italy has significantly improved over the past few years. Most hotels, big restaurants, and train stations take them without issue. But once you step into small trattorias, family-run cafés, or Christmas markets, cash is still the safest option. Stalls selling roasted chestnuts, mulled wine, or handmade ornaments will almost always prefer coins and notes.
During the holidays, ATMs can be tricky. Long lines build up on Christmas Eve and New Year’s weekend, and sometimes machines even run out of cash. To avoid stress, withdraw money ahead of the big days and keep a small stash of euro notes with you. It’s also useful when splitting bills with friends, leaving tips, or hopping on a bus where cards aren’t accepted.
Be sure to set aside time each evening to enjoy the festive light displays if you’re visiting Italy in December, they’re truly one of the season’s highlights. Every town and city brings its own unique charm to the decorations. While the displays might be more understated than in some of the other places I’ve visited at Christmas, there’s a sense of authenticity to them that stands out. The lights feel like a genuine celebration of the season, less about commercial flash and more about tradition, quite a contrast to the glitzier displays I’ve seen in places like London.
Bologna and Padua turned out to be two of the most unexpectedly beautiful cities for Christmas lights. Their displays were warm and understated, with an artistic, almost poetic quality woven through the portico-lined streets. In some areas, lines of poetry were projected onto building façades, transforming the city into an open-air gallery of light and words. Evening strolls through these illuminated streets felt especially memorable, like being let in on a quiet, local holiday tradition tucked away from the usual tourist trails.
If you’re visiting Italy during the holidays, be sure to try the festive foods that only appear this time of year. Panettone and pandoro are the stars of the season; look for artisanal versions in local bakeries rather than supermarket shelves. Christmas markets are also great for sampling regional treats, such as torrone (nougat), struffoli (honey-drenched dough balls in Naples), and mostaccioli (spiced chocolate-dipped cookies). In the north, especially around Bologna, be sure to try tortellini in brodo, a comforting bowl of pasta in rich broth that’s a classic Christmas dish.
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A traditional Christmas Eve dinner in Italy is typically a meatless, seafood-focused feast, known as La Vigilia, and it’s one of the most delicious ways to experience the season like a local. If you find yourself in a coastal city like Venice or Naples, don’t miss the chance to order dishes like baccalà mantecato (creamed salted cod), clams with spaghetti, or crisp, golden fried calamari, each one celebrating the sea’s bounty with simplicity and care. Many menus also highlight seasonal produce, like artichokes, fennel, or citrus, which appear in salads or side dishes to add freshness and balance to the meal. To finish, enjoy a glass of prosecco or spumante, followed by a thick slice of panettone or pandoro, often served with mascarpone cream or a dusting of powdered sugar.
Everywhere we went in Italy, we were delighted to find a festive twist on even the most everyday experiences. It felt like the entire country had quietly dressed up for the holidays. Coffee shops served seasonal specialties like panettone-flavoured lattes, and even the most humble morning pastry came topped with a dusting of icing sugar or a hint of citrus zest, giving it a subtle Christmas flourish. Bakeries filled their windows with artfully wrapped holiday treats, miniature pandoro, chocolate-dipped biscotti shaped like stars, and piles of torrone tied with ribbon.
And as you stroll through the streets after dinner, you’ll almost certainly catch the unmistakable scent of roasting chestnuts, sold from little street carts on nearly every corner. Their warm, nutty aroma fills the air, adding another layer of cosy, festive comfort to the evening!
Christmas in Italy isn’t just about the lights and food, it’s the music that truly brings the season to life. From classical ensembles to traditional Italian carols, holiday concerts are held in churches, theatres, and piazzas across the country. Even if you’re not someone who usually seeks out live performances, the acoustics in Italy’s historic churches and grand theatres make these events feel incredibly moving and atmospheric. One of our most memorable experiences was attending the One Million Dreams Christmas Concert in Venice, where 200 members of the Big Vocal Orchestra filled one of the most breathtaking theatres I’ve ever stepped into with a joyful mix of seasonal songs. To catch something similar, check local event calendars or ask your hotel staff, they’re often a great source for finding festive concerts, especially ones off the usual tourist radar.
If you’re visiting Venice in December, even just for a day, try to time your trip around the Santa Claus Regatta (Regata dei Babbi Natale), one of the city’s most delightfully quirky holiday traditions. Usually held in mid-December, it features dozens of rowers dressed as Santa, paddling their way down the Grand Canal in classic Venetian boats like gondolas and sandoli. It’s festive, fun, and a little surreal, in the best way, mixing Christmas cheer with Venice’s age-old love of rowing.
If you’re planning to catch the Santa Claus Regatta in Venice this December, the best way to find out the exact date and route is to keep an eye on local event listings and Venice Tourism websites. The regatta usually takes place the Sunday before Christmas, but the exact date can vary each year. Social media is also a great resource; look for Instagram or TikTok posts about the Regata dei Babbi Natale. When in doubt, ask your hotel staff or a local tourism office.
For views, Rialto Bridge is a classic choice, offering a high vantage point over the Grand Canal, but it can get very, very crowded! You can also stake out a spot along the Ponte dell’Accademia, but honestly, anywhere along the Grand Canal is a great spot to watch the event!
One of the most unique and charming traditions in Italy is the story of La Befana, a beloved figure who plays a starring role in the country’s Epiphany celebrations. According to legend, La Befana is an old woman, part kind witch, part grandmother, who flies from house to house on a broomstick on the night of January 5th, delivering sweets and small gifts to children. Unlike Santa Claus, she wears a shawl, carries a sack of treats, and is often depicted with a sooty face from climbing down chimneys.
The myth comes from the story of the Wise Men, who once stopped at the house of La Befana on their way to see the baby Jesus. They invited her to join, but she said she was too busy with chores. Soon after, she regretted it. She gathered gifts and set out to find the child, but never did. Ever since, she has flown across Italy on Epiphany Eve, leaving presents for good children and lumps of coal for the naughty.
Even in early December, La Befana is already making her presence known all across Italy. Market stalls overflow with witch-shaped chocolates, shop windows feature her as a cheerful, grandmotherly figure smiling down at passersby, and Befana-themed candies line the shelves in local supermarkets!
I hope these tips give you the confidence to embrace winter in Italy and make the most of all the magic this festive season brings to its cities. There’s so much beauty to discover when you lean into the slower pace, the cozy traditions, and the unexpected joys that December in Italy has to offer.
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