With news of obnoxious tourists overtaking the city of Prague, a lot of us who prefer a more intimate, less crowded vacation will be taking Prague off our list. And I can understand this; the tourist crowds were one of the reasons I avoided this city for as long as I did. I knew how beautiful it was supposed to be, with some of the most incredible baroque architecture to be found all over Europe, and yet I always hesitated to book.
Exploring a city at the crack of dawn, before a sole other than myself hits the streets, is one of my favourite things to do. What can I say? I’m an introvert. But once I finally decided to see Prague for myself, I found sneaky little ways of avoiding the hordes of tourists. I found that most of the group tours just stuck to certain areas and it was easy to find peaceful promenades just a block over. I also just accepted that they, just like myself, were here to savour this awe-inspiring city. (Except for those who come here solely for the cheap beer and sloppy parties, they’re a breed all on their own.)
Instead of avoiding the town altogether, it was merely a matter of heading off the tourist track and discovering a hidden Prague for myself, and I wanted to share one of my favourite off-typical tourist track guides with you!
One of my most cherished neighbourhoods in Prague was Malá Strana, which translates into “the Lesser Quarter.” Malá Strana is divided between the lower and upper halves of the western hillside, opposite the Vltava River. The upper half consists mainly of Prague Castle, where most tourists flock (with good reason), but the rest of the Lesser Town has a more subdued vibe. With fewer big-ticket attractions, you’ll find slightly fewer tourists along these streets. But you’ll still discover streets lined with historic Burgher houses, astonishing churches and adorable cafes and restaurants.
If you choose to go inside the various buildings we pass along the way and stop for a coffee or a meal, I would save half a day for the tour to take it at a comfortable pace. This tour pairs perfectly with the Prague Castle Tour since both can be found in the western half of Prague.
Since we are trying to stay off the extremely busy pathways, you can take this tour any time. If you’re looking for it to be very empty, try to go early in the morning and or late in the afternoon or evening. Nothing compares to the sunrise and sunset across the Vltava river.
Our tour begins on Legions Bridge. To reach this bridge by public transport, you can take trams; 2, 3, 13, 14, 17 or 18 to the Národní Divadlo stop. No matter where you’re coming from in the city, this place is relatively easy to reach on the tram since there are so many stops nearby. Everything in Prague is also very walkable, and from the Old Town, the bridge is only 15 minutes away.
Malá Strana, or “Lesser Quarter,” was established by King Ottokar II of Bohemia in 1257. He divided the city into two halves, separated by the river and the Charles Bridge. The right side of town was the centre of the bourgeois, native Czech population. The left bank, however, was made up of many more German and Italian citizens, along with the most opulent noble palaces.
The king brought German craftsmen to help establish his city as having some of the finest craftsmen in Europe. In 1541 the town suffered massive damages due to fires set by invading armies. When it was rebuilt, Baroque architecture was the dominant style, and to this day, we can still explore the pastel-coloured burgher houses and ornate facades that Prague’s baroque movement was so iconic for. As you walk through the town, down quaint side streets and ancient alleyways, you feel you’ve been transported through time.
While most tours of the Malá Strana might start you off entering via the grand gates on the Charles Bridge, I would advise taking the back entrance into town instead. Legions Bridge allows you access to Lesser Town without fighting through a crush of people. The views from the Legions Bridge across to the Charles Bridge and Prague Castle are also incredible! If you’re ever interested in taking a paddle boat out on the river you can watch other happy paddlers out on the waterways enjoying the views and a bit of sunshine.
Across the bridge, just to the left, as you arrive, you’ll find Kampa Island. This little island is a peaceful, green retreat where you’ll find lots of local Czech families enjoying some time outdoors. This island was originally man-made, constructed in the 12th century, and once used mainly as a place where women could wash and bleach linen by the river. Today, the island is also home to the Kampa Modern Art Museum, littered with modernist sculptures. Some of the most intriguing is the giant bronze babies who crawl along the grounds of the island, somewhat creepy but definitely interesting.
To the island’s west is a small stream from the river Vltava. This charming waterway has a rather nefarious name. They call it ‘Čertovka,’ which in English means “the Devil’s Inlet.” The name is supposedly derived from a nearby house called ‘U semi čertů‘ or “at the Seven Devils.” Along the Čertovka you’ll find remnants of old medieval mills which used the canal as their primary form of power in the 12th century. The Grand Priory Mill or ‘Velkopřevorský Mlýn‘ is the most famous and iconic of these. Today, the mill has been renovated into an upscale (rather meh) restaurant but still has the original waterwheel outside on display. I’ve marked it on the map so you can look closer as you pass it.
Just across from the Čertovka, you’ll find IF Café. This cafe is the perfect place to grab a bit of breakfast or just a cup of coffee. If you haven’t had the chance to fuel up for the rest of the tour, this is a great opportunity. This restaurant serves fantastic coffee and is always surprisingly quiet for being close to a tourist mecca. Whether you’re here for breakfast or lunch, this place has dishes which will make you drool! And the best part is the pastries! They look like works of art or blooming flowers sitting quietly inside their glass case ready to be devoured.
Just on the other side of the road from the cafe is Liechtenstein Palace. This cream-coloured, old Palace, built in the 16th century, was Prague’s most extensive baroque construction. And while the exterior might look sweet and simple, this place is known as home to one of the cruellest and most ruthless men in Prague’s history, the “Bloody vice-regent” Lichtenstein. He is known as the “bloody regent” due to his murderous rule, where he ordered the deaths of 27 leaders of the Hussite rebellions in 1621. The leaders were beheaded in Old Town square despite dozens of relatives who begged the Regent to spare their lives. Today, 27 cast-iron heads are mounted as pseudo gargoyles along the front of the Palace to commemorate the event.
Continue walking along Hroznová street until you reach the Grand Priory Mill, as mentioned above. A small bridge juts out over the Čertovka, where you can look across the stream to the adorable houses facing the waterway. The wrought iron fencing that protects visitors from falling into the river has become a strange tourist attraction. A popular trend across Europe popped up in the mid-2000s where lovers would swear their eternal fidelity to each other by leaving a padlock with their initials on the bridge and throwing the key in the water below.
While this might seem romantic, sealing your love into your favourite location on your travels, the reality is much different. These locks have severely damaged many historic bridges since they were never built to support such weight. Cities have now begun to cut them down to save the integrity of the bridges. So while you might think this is a cute idea, think twice before leaving your love lock here. You might find it to be cut down the next day…which is a must less romantic metaphor.
Across the bridge and along Velkopřevorské náměstí you’ll find the famous Lennon Wall. The Lennon Wall is a favourite spot for tourists and locals alike. Since the 1980s, people have been visiting this wall and covering it with graffiti relating to John Lennon and the Beatles. It represents all of John Lennon’s ideals: peace, love and equality. The origins of the first piece of graffiti are unknown, but it seemed to have caught on like wildfire.
In addition to Lennon-inspired graffiti, in 1988, the wall became a place where young Czechs could air their grievances about the communist regime. Whenever local authorities would paint over the graffiti, the next day, it would be covered up once more in poems and paintings. Eventually, they just stopped trying and accepted it as modern art so long as they didn’t deface any other surrounding buildings. If you have a pen, or even some paint, feel free to leave your mark here along with the others!
Keep walking north along Lázeňská and turn right along Saská lane. The houses and building along this short route are some of the most beautiful examples of everyday baroque architecture. These aren’t palaces or noble estates, just mundane buildings built within the Baroque era. These lanes are almost empty, even though you’ll be able to hear the hustle and bustle of tourists just up ahead. Hidden down here, just steps from the famous Charles Bridge, is one of the oldest and most beautiful flower shops, Květinářství U Červeného Lva. Flowers are literally pouring out the door! Even if you can’t buy flowers for yourself, just looking at this shop in this quiet lane feels like discovering a secret garden!
Keep walking along Saská lane until you reach a set of stairs on your left, leading you up to the end of the Charles Bridge, where you’ll find the Lesser Town Bridge Towers. This lofty structure with the wide arched gateway is flanked on either side by two enormous towers of differing heights. The non-uniformity of these towers always bothered me (I’m someone who likes symmetry), but I’ve found the oddity quite charming over time.
The lower tower is called Judith’s Tower. It was built in the Romanesque style in the 12th century and once connected the old bridge from Mala Strana to Old Town before the Charles Bridge was built. In 1591 the bridge tower was renovated in the new Renaissance style and decorated with ornate gables, and the trendiest art form of the time: sgraffito. Sgraffito is a form of decoration made by scratching through a surface to reveal a lower layer of a contrasting colour, typically done in plaster or stucco.
The second tower is aptly named the Higher Tower. It was built in the high Gothic style as a pair to the Charles Bridge’s Tower of Parler, located on the other side. At the peak of the arched gateway, you’ll see various symbols of Prague. There are the emblems with the imperial eagle, the Czech lion and the symbol of Upper Lusatia; below them are the emblems of the Old Town and the Lesser Town.
Instead of heading straight through the main gates where the influx of crowds can be found, we’re going to enter around the northern side. While this gateway is lovely, the immediate area opposite the gate is packed with tourists and best avoided. Just north of the gates, walk up Dražického nám and turn right along Míšeňská Street. Míšeňská Street is one of the best-preserved Baroque streets in Prague.
Because it doesn’t boast huge attractions, you’ll still find it a quiet little place to explore. Before there were street numbers in Prague, houses were distinguished by a crest above the doorway. These could be family crests or correspond to the kind of businesses which operated inside. Stop by Míšeňská #3, which was once the ‘Queen of the Bees’ house marked by a flag of honeycomb and bees. Míšeňská #10 is marked with an old fresco of a lamb, and opposite this, #7 is marked with a wrought iron rooster.
Café Club Míšeňská is another famous espresso bar which boasts some of the best coffee in the city inside an old 18-century house. If you didn’t grab something to drink or a snack beforehand, this is another delightful spot to sit and enjoy a bit of quiet. The decor inside is a blend of restrained modernism and antique nostalgia.
As you exit Míšeňská Street and hit U Lužického semináře, you’ll find the tiny little shop with the name ‘Shakespeare a synové’ above the entrance. This is one of the city’s most intriguing bookshops, which carries both new and used Czech, English, French & other foreign language books. There are some real rarities here, and while the books might be a bit pricey, it’s still worth poking your head inside to explore. The tiny shop is spread over two floors and has various couches and chairs for people to sit and peruse any books of interest before buying. It’s a great spot to warm up or cool down if you need a short rest from the walk.
Keep walking north along U Lužického semináře until you reach the Restaurant Čertovka. Just beside this restaurant is one of the strangest and most hidden spots in Mala Strana. Here you can find the narrowest street in Prague! From U Lužického semináře, this extremely narrow lane leads back to a restaurant garden. The path is so skinny that a traffic light had to be installed to ensure no two people went at the same time from either direction, in case they got stuck! You can easily walk down it yourself even if you’re not visiting the restaurant, just ensure you click the walk button and obey the signs.
Across the street from the restaurant, along the west side of U Lužického semináře, you’ll find a long white wall which hides a valuable secret. After walking north along the wall for about a block and a half, you’ll come to a small archway which provides an entrance inside. The exterior wall is bland and usually covered in unappealing tags and graffiti. But as you make your way to the gate, you’ll be in awe of the greenery to be found inside.
Vojan Park, the oldest park in Prague, was initially built-in 1300. In the 17th century, the Convent of Barefooted Carmelites was constructed beside the park, and their order took it upon themselves to care for the gardens and enhance their beauty. Especially in the summer when the cherry blossoms bloom, this park is absolutely magical. Be sure to keep your eyes peeled for the various peacocks which roam the grounds as they are a sight to behold!
Exit the park where you entered and continue along U Lužického semináře. Walk until you reach Letenská street, where you’ll turn left and walk along the road westwards until you reach St. Joseph Church. While the buildings along this stretch aren’t of particular note, you have a great opportunity to get some fantastic snaps of the old Prague trams that run up and down this street. St. Joseph Church is a narrow, little building piled up with some of the most exquisite Baroque ornamentations. While the interior is a bit lacklustre, the exterior is a real feast for the eyes.
Across the street from St. Joseph Church in St. Thomas Church. This church is the opposite of the one previous. The exterior is a bit of a jumble of everyday styles. But inside, you’ll be awed at fantastical ceiling frescos, elaborately carved wooden chapels and stunning multilayered altarpieces. The church was originally founded by the order of Augustinian Hermits by Wenceslas II in 1285. The church was decorated in high Gothic style by some of the most prominent Czech artists of the time and today is still one of the best examples of Czech art and architecture.
Down the street from St. Thomas Church is the Velikovský house, found at Malá Strana No. 518. The famous townhouse has stood on this spot for over 600 years in one form or another. It was rebuilt and renovated due to fires and changing architectural styles. Study the corner turret, decorated with sgraffito from sculptor Celestyn Kloucek which dates back to 1899. On the southern facade, facing the Malostranské náměstí is an old sundial from 1608. It was discovered hidden under a new layer of plaster during one of the renovations. Historians carefully uncovered it; today, it is a stunning example of how Czechs used to tell time. They used a unique method that counted the hours that had passed since sunset instead of the 24-hour clock we have today.
Now, after a roundabout route, we find ourselves in the main square of Prague’s Malá Strana. St. Nicholas Church stands domineering over the square and separates it into two distinct spaces; the upper (western) and lower (eastern) squares. While the jolly food vendors and antique trams with charming church bells ringing in the distance might seem like an idyllic scene, this square hides a darker history. It was once the spot where the gallows and pillory were located throughout many different eras of Prague’s judicial history. Townspeople would gather here to view public executions and cruel medieval punishments. The only sign of such dark histories is the rather tacky “torture museum” signage plastered all over the ancient facades.
The lower square is where you’ll find the tram stop for Mala Strana, surrounded by pretty palace façades. This was originally where the nobility of Prague’s elite would live, close to the Palace without being inside its gates. Many of these buildings are now tourist trap restaurants, but luckily the high prices have meant they can maintain the original architecture and appearance of these historic estates.
The upper part of the square is called ‘Vlašský place‘ as ‘Vlacks’ or Italians once lived solely in this area and would come into the square daily to sell their products and goods. In the upper square, we also find the soaring Plague Column commemorating the Czech people’s survival after the great plague of 1713. The column features sculptures of the Virgin Mary surrounded by Czech saints designed by sculptors Jan Oldřich Mayer and F. Geiger.
St. Nicholas Church stands high above Mala Strana with its three masterful copper-topped roofs. It is known across Europe as an absolute architectural marvel and one of the most exceptional examples of Prague Baroque. Where St. Vitus is an example of the most beautiful Gothic architecture, St. Nicholas provides a glimpse into opulence, which is genuine baroque.
It was built in 1704 by the father-son duo Christoph and Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer. Saint Nicholas is known as the protector of children and the patron saint of sailors. Legend says he saved three girls from being forced into sex work by dropping sacks of gold coins into their window to pay for their dowry. Other stories tell of his power to calm the oceans and save lost soldiers at sea. Many of these stories are told throughout the paintings and sculptures inside, so it’s always good to know a little bit of context for the saint the church is named after.
Stepping inside the church, you’re immediately struck by the lavish decor and open space. The dome stretches 70 meters above the church, creating a grandiose light lantern that rushes inside. There are lush decorations everywhere your head turns. Pastel frescoes cover what appears to be every inch of the walls and ceilings. The most impressive of these paintings is the one on the dome depicting the Holy Trinity by Franz Palko. But there is a real balance between heavy ornamentation and light, creating a heavenly harmony. The massive dome is encircled with windows, as are either side naves. This allows natural light to pour into the centre of the church ensuring you never feel claustrophobic or weighed down.
One of the most impressive features of the church is the grand organ which was once played by none other than Mozart himself in 1787. The organ contains over 4,000 pipes and is an absolute marvel to hear. Be sure to check when the church holds concerts, as hearing the organ played in person is truly something otherworldly.
To get one of the most amazing views across the city, climb the 215 steps up the centre tower. You can see the Vltava River and the surrounding countryside past the city limits. During the communist era, this viewpoint was more than just a pretty sight. Spies frequently visited this spot to look down on the nearby American embassy. On your way up the tower, keep an eye out for the small cast iron urinals along the wall. These were installed to allow the spies to relieve themselves without a long journey to the ground floor.
Just outside St. Nicholas church on the corner of Zámecká and Nerudova street, you’ll find one of the oldest pharmacies in Prague. The Fragner Pharmacy at the Black Eagle is easily identified by the giant black eagle on the front of the shop.
While the pharmacy now sells modern-day medicine, it also has various historical items on display inside the 18th-century interior. It’s a great way to explore what old pharmacies used to be like while also picking up any medicine you might need for yourself (for me, I always need some blister band-aids for my feet after long days of walking the entire city).
Turn down Nerudova Street which is itself a tour through the eras. Nerudova is named after the writer and poet Jan Neruda. Neruda spent his life writing stories all about the “Lesser Town” and the various real-life character turned fictional in his charming short stories. While most of the historic storefronts have turned into touristy restaurants or souvenir shops, looking closely above the entrances, you can still study the historical remnants of this incredible street. Above #12, now a Chinese restaurant, you’ll see an emblem of three fiddles marking what used to be an old violin makers shop. A few doors down at #16, we see an old apothecary shop marked with a golden chalice.
Along Nerudova, stop in at the Gingerbread Museum. While more of a shop than a museum, it does sell superbly decorated gingerbread. There are always some gorgeous treats to behold, both for display and purchase. A monthly window display usually features gingerbread versions of the city’s iconic architecture. It’s an amusing little shop which just makes me smile, so I had to include it. And fair enough, I do love myself some gingerbread!
If you like a quick snack, head into the Prague Chocolate Bistro. Despite sounding like a tacky tourist trap, this little modernist cafe is known for serving up some of the most delicious chocolate treats. Their rich and slightly savoury hot chocolate is the perfect thing to not only fill you up with its rich flavour but also to keep you warm on a cold or rainy day.
As you continue walking along with Nerudova, stop by #26 to see if you can spot the golden sparrow house or the golden wagon wheel at #26. Across the street at #27 is the golden key house. The street can get really crowded, but I found that the denser areas usually comprise just one large group. Just wait for them to go by, and the street will open back in a few minutes.
Above the house, at #45, you’ll see a beautiful bronze plaque on the facade of the building with the image of Jan Neruda carved into the bronze. It documents the author’s life and the street dedicated to him.
As Nerudova turns into Úvoz street, stop in at AMI Marionettes. Marionettes are a very popular souvenir to be found in Prague. For many years, puppetry was considered a low form of entertainment compared to theatre or opera. They were operated by less skilled artisans. Often instead of being performed in German (which in the 17th century was the official language in Prague), they used the native Czech language. While this might seem no big deal, speaking, Czech had been outlawed! Puppetry became somewhat of a nationalist pastime, sometimes only performed in secret. In the 18th and 19th centuries, as the Czech Republic began to rebel against using the German language, the marionette became a symbol of this rebellion.
AMI Marionettes is still one of the most trustworthy names in puppetry, and all their puppets are locally produced. You’ll see marionettes all over town in cheap souvenir shops, but these are often Chinese knockoffs. Even if you’re not interested in buying one for yourself, the craftsmanship used to make these marionettes is really impressive.
As we are nearing the end of the tour, if you’re feeling a bit peckish, head into Baráčnická rychta. This cozy little restaurant can be found just off the famous Nerudova street. It’s incredible how you can still find a real authentic place with great prices and delicious food just steps away from tourist traps and overpriced cafes. There is even a little outdoor garden to eat in on lovely summer days, but you can dine inside their traditional Czech interior throughout the year.
To make your way to one of the most incredible views of the city without the tourist hordes, head west across Vlašská until you reach the corner of Vyhlídka Václava Havla park. Meander down the garden pathway (as marked on the map below) towards the easternmost part. Not only do you have a view across the Vltava river, but you can also see the rooftops of Prague Castle off in the distance. Few other tourists were there when we visited, along with some locals walking their dogs. It was the perfect ending to a fantastic afternoon stroll.
Many people come to the Lesser Quarter solely to visit Prague Castle and miss out on the subtleties of Mala Strana. There are so many treasures to uncover! If you’re heading to Prague soon, let me know if you have any questions. And if you’ve travelled to Mala Strana before, let me know what your favourite sight was in the comments!
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