Every morning, on my latest trip to Newfoundland, I would wake up at the crack of dawn to walk along the edge of the shore. Soaking in all that crisp ocean air. I always love waking up early on vacation. But I found it even more incredibly refreshing in Newfoundland. We were lucky enough to stay at a myriad of unique beds and breakfast on our trip. Each one located right on the water. While taking in the air, I couldn’t help to notice how seemingly all Newfoundland houses were brightly painted. Whether in the city or in far off in the middle of nowhere, the green countryside and coastline was stacked with rainbow-coloured jewel-box homes.
I couldn’t help but wonder why these tiny fishing villages were given such brightly painted exteriors. And yet where I live, and in many big cities around the world, having a brightly painted house would be considered an eyesore! Or at the very least something totally out of the ordinary. I ADORED touring these vibrant Newfoundland houses. I came back home wishing I had the guts to ask my neighbours what they’d think about painting my house teal, golden yellow or best of all, bright red!
Originally most of the Newfoundland houses were painted in a rich, ochre paint. And it could be made right at home. Only in the early 20th century did mass-produced paints become available. Ochre is a natural clay pigment composed of powdered hematite or iron ore. The colours of the ochre can range from yellow to deep orange or brown. The name “ochre” is from the Greek meaning “pale yellow.” In ancient Greece, ochre clay was very pale due to its mineral make-up. But clay ochre can be found all over Newfoundland as well! Primarily in Fortune Harbour and Ochre Pit Cove.
To make their own paint, fishermen would mix the ochre with fish oil, seal oil and linseed oil. This no doubt stinky mixture would then be applied to the house. Evidence of ochre paint being used on Newfoundland houses dates back to 1610. They discovered its use on buildings along with Cupids Cove Plantation who still have the original paint. Proving its efficacy in these weather conditions.
There are several theories as to why fishing villages and seaside towns in Newfoundland have such brightly painted houses. The most popular theory is that when the fishermen came home on dark grey and foggy mornings, it was almost impossible to spot their house along the shore. But when they painted their homes or fishing huts with bright colours, it made it easier to spot when coming ashore.
Another theory is that regular house paint would show fading faster in the harsh maritime climate. Normal paint would peel from the salty sea air and the winds and snow would fade the paint away. In many other places around the world where the weather is this harsh, they would have simply used bricks or stone to build their homes. But in Newfoundland, this kind of material was very expensive. Most fishermen made meagre wages and therefore could only afford a wooden house.
But then they discovered they could use the same paint they used on their ships to paint their homes. The ship’s paint was much stronger and could withstand the conditions. Ships’ paint came in brilliant colours so that other boats could see the vessels when on the water. Especially when you were out on foggy or stormy seas, being visible was of the utmost importance. This was also a money-saving technique as the ship’s leftover paint was free! Nothing went to waste.
Other people say that the luminous coloured houses are meant to bring joy to people’s faces when they see them along the hills. When you live in a province where the weather is almost always either windy, rainy or snowy, it’s important to brighten things up where you can!
Whatever the reason, it’s fantastic to see this tradition continuing even today! In fact, in towns like St. John’s, some of the old Victorian homes are still the very same colour as they were initially painted. Even after hundreds of years ago. It is an unwritten rule that if you own one of these historic homes you must keep it painted in a traditional colour. To help retain the patchwork quilt which makes up the colourful streets.
The importance of the multi-coloured houses is such that there is even a Historic Colours of Newfoundland paint collection. One day, the owner of Templeton’s paint shop, whose store has been open in St. John’s since 1863, found a collection of decades-old paint chips hidden away in the basement. This was a treasure trove of history. He worked with the Heritage Newfoundland council to get the colours developed as an exclusive paint line. The paints were all given with the most charming names. Mussels in the Corner, Little Heart’s Ease, Christmas Syrup, Nanny-Goat, May Bush Blue and Sea Spray Green are just a few of my favourites.
The names were carefully selected to evoke the unique aspects that make Newfoundland so special. The deep golden yellow paint named “Dory Buff” was used on little boats for years. It was the best colour to paint the smaller boats to ensure they remained visible even in rough conditions. A mossy green paint called “Ferryland Downs” is named after the Colony of Avalon and the mossy excavation site located nearby.
Looking at all these paint colours, you’ll notice there are “traditional” hues and “Jelly Bean Pallette.” In the 1960s, paint could be tinted from its original colours. This resulted in brighter, more pastel hues which have become the iconic colour palette in St. John’s Jellybean Row. There is a slight controversy about these colours as they aren’t as traditional as the older ones. Still, there is no escaping their photographic popularity.
Jellybean Row is the name affectionately given to the rows and rows of brightly coloured townhouses that line the steep streets of St. John’s. One of the best parts of visiting St. John’s is admiring the fantastic eras of different architecture. St. John’s was the first fishing outpost for European fishermen. Therefore the original buildings in St. John’s were made for the working fishermen. These consisted of simple shreds, storage shacks, wooden piers and rudimentary homes for the fishermen.
St. John’s is often compared to San Francisco due to the steep incline of the street compounded with the brightly coloured Victorian homes. But it’s not just the colours you need to admire, but also the styles, accents and ornamentations. So many houses have beautiful stained glass windows sparkling against the sunlight as you pass by. Although the name is “Jellybean Row” the multicoloured house can be found all over the city. They are not just found in one dedicated “row.” But if you’re looking for the best place to explore to see the most extensive collection of colourful houses, then head over to the historic Georgetown neighbourhood. Here you can wander to your heart’s content and see street after street of rainbow-hued houses.
Just 10 minutes by car from the centre of St. John’s is the small fishing village of Quidi Vidi. Quidi Vidi was time and time again the most recommended destination when I told people I was visiting Newfoundland. Quidi Vidi was established around 1600 when fishermen arrived each Spring to fish for the cod rich in this area. Most of them would depart back to Europe come the fall in anticipation of Newfoundland’s frigid winters. But after a few years, there was the need to have a few fishermen stay the winter. They would take care of sourcing timber and fuel for the following Spring when the other fishermen returned. Small fishing huts were built to house these men, and eventually, they started to call the area home. They expanded from huts to houses and created their own little community.
Despite being just 10 minutes from St. John’s, Quidi Vidi has preserved a quaint and peaceful atmosphere. There is very little parking which means they can better control the number of people in the village. The fishing hunts have grown slightly over the years, but they retain the brightly painted historic colours that make this place so charming.
Bonavista is most famous being the spot where Italian explorer John Cabot (Giovanni Caboto) first stepped foot. He arrived here in June 1497. When he spotted land from his ship, he was reported to cry out, “O Buon Vista!” In Italian, this means “Oh, Happy Sight!” And what a sight to see is Bonavista even today. Although Cabot saw the land without the beautiful houses that now cover the landscape, the beauty of this place is uncomparable. The town of Bonavista is one of the oldest villages, not only in Newfoundland but in North America! The cape was developed in the 1500s after the arrival of Cabot. The area around Bonavista was rich in fish and seals. It soon became of the most important towns in Newfoundland.
They built up the village along the rocky mantle, not along the shore. Since the seas are so rough here, the water would frequently wash houses along the coast away. Building the town along the elevated cape meant there was more space to expand and build large homes. Most of these homes were built by English settlers who were fish merchants. Eventually, they would build a break wall to prevent flooding and houses soon crept down the hillside. Today the city is known as being one of the dynamic and vibrant communities in Newfoundland.
Just 16 minutes from St. John’s, you can escape the big city and find yourself in the centre of this small, picturesque fishing village. Petty Harbour is home to only 970 people who live here year-round. The first settlers established a fishing village here in the 1600s. And while a few modern conveniences pop up, so many elements of this village feel like stepping back in time.
Walking along the dock, you can still see the original fishing nets and wooden crab traps fishermen still use today. Scenic rolling green hills are the backdrop to the town’s wonderfully colourful houses. I loved how the houses almost look right down on the harbour below. It’s just such a charming part of the province.
Located on the northeast corner of Newfoundland, Twillingate is one of the most remote yet incredible places to visit. It is best known as the spot to view whales, dolphins and harp seals throughout the year. But most iconic of all are the icebergs that pass by the town. You can literally watch the bergs float by as you walk along the rugged coastline. The reason the icebergs pass this way is because of the ocean corridor which runs down from Greenland, called “Iceberg Alley.”
During the 1800s, Twillingate was one of the busiest seaports in all of northern Newfoundland. It was bursting with ships coming into the post from all over the world. The ships would bring in supplies and carry away freshly caught cod. But today, it is just a quiet fishing village. It is only during the early summer months when the icebergs come to call that visitor’s flood into town. Throughout the rest of the year, this sleepy fishing village is the perfect place to come to get away from it all! Whenever you arrive, you can admire the quaint and colourful houses which cover the shores. And creep up over the coastline.
Brigus is a small fishing community located in Conception Bay, less than an hour from St. John’s. The town is known as a picture-perfect photographer’s paradise. Say that three times fast! Over the years, many an “Arctic Heroe” called this village home. The narrow lanes and winding streets are so reminiscent of English, Irish, and Welsh villages. The styles of the homes are also reflective of their immigrant owners. So many of the homes along their central streets have been preserved for the ages. They each retain a superb historic charm and, of course, those iconic brightly coloured exteriors. You can see the great 200-year-old church whose bright green roof always makes an appearance as you first drive into town. Plus peruse the site of the old Vindicator newspaper office and the old Orange Lodge built in 1860!
Perhaps no surprise to anyone; it is the odd name of this town that draws people to its shores. But what they find when they arrive in ‘Dildo‘ is one of the most delightful fishing villages! Complete with some of the most amazingly painted boats and houses dotted along the coast. The original meaning of the word “Dildo” referred to the phallus-shaped pin stuck in the edging of a rowboat. This part acts as a pivot for the oar, a key component! Although many of us might think of something much different, this is the real meaning which inspired the naming of the town.
The town really rose to fame when the talk show host Jimmy Kimmel featured it on his television show. His team even made a trip out to Newfoundland in 2019 when Jimmy was named honorary mayor. After the town was touched by Hollywood, it was even given its own Hollywood-style sign. Jimmy Kimmel donated the sign to the community, and today it sits on the hillside overlooking this adorable town. And while the Jimmy Kimmel show might have put it on the map, it’s the splashy houses and lovable people who make it such a great place to explore. One of the greatest places to see and stay is at the historic George House Heritage B & B. This amazing house is painted such stunning colours, framed against the backdrop of the hillside looking over all of Dildo.
Located an hour and a half from St. John’s are three of the most famous sheds in all of Canada. The three beach huts are painted in alternating red, yellow, and blue colours. They sit alone out near the shore, facing Cavendish Bay. While it might seem like a long way to go, Cavendish is just 20 minutes up the road from our previous stop in Dildo. These huts have been portrayed on postcards, paintings and more despite being so off-the-beaten-path. The sheds can be found just off Trinity Road South 80 along Beach Road.
The Change Islands are located between Notre Dame Bay and the Labrador Sea. Far off on the northeast coast of the island of Newfoundland. To get here, you must take a ferry from the mainland over to the islands. But it’s a short hour-long commute. Although there are only 300 permanent residents, they have kept the beauty and the historic nature of this community alive over the years. The town was established in the early 1700s by European settlers. But it wasn’t until the 1900s when the village would become a hub for schooner fleets working the Labrador fishery.
This influx of boats and fishermen resulted in the development of the brightly coloured houses you see along the coast today. As we mentioned previously, ochre was the original colour of the fishing hunt in Newfoundland. And here on the change islands, you’ll find many original structures painted in that historic colour!
Ok, this last one is perhaps the most exciting but “technically” not a part of Newfoundland. Saint-Pierre and Miquelon is just an hour south of Newfoundland by ferry in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The French commune is considered a part of Europe and not even a part of Canada! But as it’s just off the coast of Newfoundland many visitors make this journey as a part of their maritime adventure. Saint-Pierre and Miquelon even use the euro despite being just a hop, skip and jump from the mainland of Newfoundland. The small island has had a violent history with the French and English settlers. Each side waging war over the years for control over the land. Finally, in 1816 the French took control, and it would remain a French colony ever since.
But despite all this violence, or perhaps in spite of it, the houses on Saint-Pierre and Miquelon are some of the most vibrant in all of Newfoundland. It’s like looking at a paint store chip wall with splotches of colours dotted the hillsides. When you are on such a remote island in the middle of the winter, these colourful houses are just what you need to bring in a warm smile to your face.
I hope these brightly coloured houses and villages of Newfoundland inspire you to make a trip out to this fantastic part of Canada. And maybe when you come home, you’ll be motivated to give your own home a new coat of paint!
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Your picture of “Brigus” is actually Bay de Verde. I know this because it’s where I met my fiancé 13 years ago this month….fishing cod!
Thanks Janice! I checked my files and you were right, I got my pictures mixed up. Hopefully I have the right one in there now. Thanks as always for the feedback.