Tasmania is one of the least visited parts of Australia but, in my opinion, is their greatest hidden gem! Tasmania, formerly called Van Diemen’s Land, is an island state of Australia located 150 miles from the mainland, separated by the relatively shallow Bass Strait. Despite being a state in Australia, Tasmania feels like a country all to itself! Its vegetation, landscape, history and even architecture all feel so unique to this tiny island. This incredible individuality makes it such a fantastic place to visit while making your way around Australia. Tasmania’s capital city is the great town of Hobart. Over half of the residences who live in Tasmania call Hobart home, making it the first stop for many who visit the island.
One of the most beautiful aspects of Hobart is the fact that there are so few high-rise buildings that creep across the city. This building limitation was put in place due to Hobart’s proximity to the River Derwent and Mount Wellington. This was due in part to the fact that the government didn’t want to ruin these incredible vistas with views of stark steel towers. The results in the peaceful seaside village we find today. Despite being an urban centre and having all those amenities, Hobart still feels like a secret treasure.
Hobart is a wonderful place to introduce yourself to the Tasmanian laidback lifestyle before heading out to explore the countryside. While Launceston feels like a ghost town, preserved in amber, Hobart keeps its history but mingles with modern advances. You can easily see the best the city has to offer in two full days since so many of the best sights are within walking distance of each other. Spend the first day using this self-guided walking tour to explore the historic hillsides of Battery Point and the beautiful harbourfront. Then, use the second day in the city to climb (slash drive up) Mount Wellington and discover more about Hobart’s dark convict past.
For over 35,000 years, the semi-nomadic Mouheneener tribe, a sub-group of the Nuenonne people, lived in Hobart. These indigenous people made good use of the astonishing natural resources the River Derwent provided. And the protected access to the Tasman sea also meant their fishing boats were kept safe but could be sent out to bring in fresh food. This indigenous group were the descendants of the Tasmanians we now refer to as the ‘Palawa‘ people.
Hobart was founded as a British colony in 1804, making it the second oldest capital city in Australia after Sydney. Hobart was settled as a penal colony, bringing the most hardened criminals from the shores of England and Ireland to the newly built prisons. Back then, Tasmania was dubbed the ominous ‘Van Diemen’s Land.’ The colony settled here was first named “Hobart Town.” It was named after Robert Hobart, 4th Earl of Buckinghamshire. Lord Hobart was the Secretary of the Colonies when Hobart was settled.
Hobart grew over the years as the freed convicts made their permanent home here. Despite their criminal past, people found these free men were hard and honest workers looking to simply restart their life here in Australia. When the penal colonies closed in 1850, whaling and shipbuilding became the prominent industry in Hobart. Due to Hobart’s proximity to the Southern Ocean, the fisherman quickly found and captured whales for the commercial market. Today, after the decline in whaling, Hobart finds itself serving as the port for Australian and French Antarctic operations and, of course, as a tourist destination for many Australians and international visitors alike.
One of the biggest draws of the town is its convict-era architecture. When settlers arrived on Hobart’s shores, they mainly used the convicts to construct the buildings that now make up the city’s bedrock. Many residents felt that the convict-built houses contained a dark history and saw them as a stain on their new capital city. But Hobart’s “old world” architecture has become one of Hobart’s biggest tourist attractions. The Georgian style was popular in Britain in the 18th to 19th centuries, named after the four British monarchs; George I, George II, George III, and George IV—who reigned in continuous succession. Georgian homes are characterized by symmetry and proportion. Architects were influenced by classical architecture from Greece and Rome. Instead of ornamentation and creativity, Georgian architecture is all about using mathematical ratios to determine the optimal design.
If you have a car, it’s super easy to find some free street parking in Battery Point; keep a lookout for those signs. If you are coming here without a car, most of the hotels and hostels are an easy 20-minute walk from Battery Point. That’s the great thing about Hobart; pretty much everything downtown is located so close together you can easily get away with walking to all your destinations in the center city.
Start your morning off right in the historic neighbourhood of Battery Point. This area is one of Hobart’s most peaceful and beautiful districts, and I love wandering the streets in the early morning. You’ll find the least tourists out and about this time of day, and the area takes on a more authentic neighbourhood feel. I adore wandering aimlessly and watching the locals mull about doing their morning tasks.
Start your tour of Battery Point inside the peaceful Princes Park. The name “Battery Point” was due to the fact that the first Battery was built here in 1818 as a part of Hobart’s coastal defences. Although the Battery was well stocked with guns and ammunition, the defences were never called upon to withstand an invasion. Instead, the Battery was mainly used for ceremonial salutes. The Battery was officially decommissioned in 1878 and turned into a lovely park for the residents in 1934. Princes Park is the perfect place to start the day as it is located on a lookout over the gorgeous River Derwent. Princes Park is also home to some beautiful lush trees, representative of that iconic flora and fauna that makes Tasmania so unique.
After meandering around Princes Park, take a walk along Hampden Road. This street winds up the hillside, climbing higher and higher. As you go, you’ll catch more and more views of the towering Mount Wellington overhead. On either side of the street, you can spot a myriad of different styles of colonial cottages. Keep an eye out for the eave-free homes. These are some of the oldest in the area and have been here since the colony’s establishment. In 1973, the Builders Labourers Federation established a “green ban” on the destruction of the historic building. This ban ensured the historic homes were preserved for future generations. The everyday Tasmanians who own these homes take great pride in keeping them prime and proper and their gardens are almost as glorious as the houses themselves.
For a moment, turn off Hampden Street to explore Runnymede Street, a small circle that surrounds the quaint Arthur Circus Park. The houses surrounding the park are old cottages. These homes were originally constructed for the garrison officers of the Battery. An iconic architectural element to keep your eye out for around here is the “iron lace” verandas. This style of wrought iron is a feature of many buildings in the area and in colonial Australia. In 1870 Australia established its own iron factories, influenced by the Victorian ornamental iron designs they saw in magazines from England. Australians adapted this style for themselves and having an iron lace terrace was a sign of your status in Australian society.
Located in the heart of the community is the popular cafe Jackman & McRoss. Jackman & McRoss feels like a quintessential Australian cafe, but with a gourmet twist. Their most popular item is the iconic Australian staple: meat pies. But unlike the mystery meat pies you get in truck stops, these pies come in flavours like; goat & lentil, blue eye fish korma, lamb & rosemary and even scallop pie, with shellfish caught right from the Tasman sea.
If sweets are your morning preference, then they have you covered as well. You’ll be drooling over the gorgeous window displays of all their sweet creations. Always go for whatever is labelled “seasonal” as these items are extra special. You can opt to grab your food to go and eat in one of the many beautiful parks around the area or sit inside and watch the locals come in and out for their morning brew.
From the cafe, head up Waterloo Crescent, then down Colville Street and over Cromwell Street to find your way to St. George’s Anglican Church. Although this is a little bit of a roundabout way to get here, it is the best route to see some of the most amazing historic streets along the way. St. George’s Anglican Church is a Greek revival church built to serve Battery Point residents in 1838. English architect James Blackburn designed the classical tower in 1847. The tower is one of the most impressive parts of the church and a worthy addition.
Nanny Goat Lane is home to one of the best spots to get an amazing view across Hobart. This steep and skinny set of steps is essential to help residents make their way from Quayle Street to St Georges Terrace. These little shortcut steps can be found all over the city. Originally, many of these access points were made by the residents themselves and not the city. But in recent years, they have become both historical and accessible assets.
Continue along Cromwell Street and down De Witt Street until you reach St. Georges Terrace. Standing on the corner of St. Georges Terrace and Colville Street, you have the most incredible view of the water to the left and the sprawling city, crawling over the hillside to your right.
Turn around and walk west along St. Georges Terrace and back north along Sandy Bay Road. Then turn back onto Hampden Street to visit Narryna Heritage Museum. The Narryna Heritage Museum is a delightful place to visit to explore what the interiors of a 1830’s style merchant house would have looked like. Designs and furnishings from early colonial Tasmania have been preserved here. The house and their collection help tell the story of life in Tasmania for those early settlers. The Georgian townhouse was built by the seafarer, Captain Andrew Haig. Haig also built the famous Salamanca warehouses in 1834.
Admission: 10 AUD for adults and 4 AUD for Children.
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday 10 am – 4 pm | Closed Mondays and Sundays
Walk along Hampden Street until you reach Kelly Street. Kelly Street was named after James Kelly, an explorer who circumnavigated Tasmania in 1816. And in only a 5-oared whaling boating nonetheless! Kelly went on to become a whale-oil merchant. Back then whale oil was one of the highest-selling commodities of the Hobart ports. To export the oil, he needed to employ shipwrights, sailmakers, ship chandlers, coopers to make barrels, smiths, wharf labourers, and watermen to ferry the cargo. These men needed to live close to the warehouse, so Kelly took his huge plot of land and subdivided it into smaller cottages for her workers. You can still see many of these old cottages today.
But the most important part of the street is the famous Kelly Steps. The steps were also made by Kelly in 1839. He wanted a shortcut for him and his workers to access the warehouses in Salamanca Place from their homes in Battery Point. The steps were carved into the hillside and from the top provide a stunning view out towards the piers. As the steps were carved almost 200 years ago, they weren’t quite made to code and are very steep, so those with mobility issues should traverse down to Salamanca Place via nearby Runnymede Street.
The steps guide you right to the center of Salamanca Place. These rows of simple, sandstone buildings were once the former warehouses that served the enormous marine industry, that was the Port of Hobart. The area was previously called “Cottage Green” but renamed in 1812. It was named Salamanca after the victory in the Battle of Salamanca by the Duke of Wellington. As the whaling and shipbuilding industry dried up and the port became less and less frequented by ships, the warehouses were transformed into a trendy space for restaurants, theatres, galleries, cafes and shops.
The best time to visit Salamanca Place is on Saturdays for the Salamanca Market. Every Saturday, hundreds of vendors come here and pop up their market stalls. Locals come here for fresh produce collected from all around Tasmania. Everything from delicious baked goods, fresh fruits and veg and friendly florists selling bouquets of brightly coloured flowers. Tourists will enjoy all that as well as the crafts and gifts made by local craftspeople. But best of all is the cheery atmosphere local markets provide. The market runs from Salamanca Lawns to Salamanca Place and is open from 8:30 am to 3 pm. This is a great place to get some food for lunch and eat it picnic-style in one of the nearby parks.
My favourite place to grab a cup of coffee or a delicious brunch is Machine Laundry Cafe. This retro fantasy cafe is located inside the old interiors of a laundry mat. Instead of removing the old machines, they left them on display and in fact, you can still do your laundry here while enjoying your breakfast! A double load will cost you $5 AUD and the dryer costs $1 AUD for 7 minutes. If you’re travelling for a long time and need some laundry done, you cannot miss doing it here! Plus the food is incredible, the perfect hangover cure!
If you want something sweet, check out San Churro Salamanca. Since the area is named after a place in Spain, it seems fitting to find a Spanish Churro shop in the middle of the old warehouses. This place serves up pipping hot, fresh churros served with traditional cinnamon sugar and a side of melted chocolate for dipping! Honey Badger Dessert Cafe is another fantastical brunch restaurant that serves up some decadent breakfast sweets. Try the pancakes or cheesecake covered in candy floss for those of us with a real sweet tooth.
Wanders into the Salamanca Arts Centre to peruse the incredible works of art found inside. Unlike a traditional art gallery, this place is free to visit and an amazing way to explore up-and-coming local artists as well as get a sense of the vibrant art style Hobart is famous for!
I’m a HUGE used book lover, so I adored Deja Vu Books inside the arts centre. This place is a treasure trove of books that wobble from the floor to the ceiling. Aspect Design is a wonderful gift shop inside that supports local Tasmanian artists and craftspeople. Everything is made using local materials and is the best place to pick up something to remember your trip with.
Continue along Salamanca Place street, passing the Supreme Court of Tasmania. Just opposite the Supreme Court, you’ll find the entrance to St David’s Park. Marking the entrance to the park are the two large lion sandstone sculptures. Their paws clutching onto the column capital. These were a gift for the Hobart bicentennial from an Australian and New Zealand Banking Group. You might spot the image of the lion all over Tasmania. This is because the Tasmania flag has a white disk with the image of a red lion in the center. Throughout the English-style park, there are lots of pretty sandstone sculptures, gorgeous pergolas, and lush Tasmanian flora and fauna.
While strolling through this peaceful park, many visitors are unaware that under their feet sits the grounds of an old cemetery. St David’s Cemetery was first established here in 1804. The site was thought to be perfect as it was a tranquil part of town with scenic water views. But it was also located a ways away from the residential area of Hobart Town. Many of Hobart’s founding citizens were buried here after serving in the new colony.
As the neighbourhood around the cemetery was built up, many residents became uneasy living close to the corpses. Health officials also voiced concerns about the health risks of this proximity. So, the cemetery was closed in 1872 when the Cornelian Bay cemetery was opened far north of the city centre. In 1919 the town council purchased the land from the church, and the area transformed into a lush recreational park.
There are still 900 bodies buried in the park as only some graves were moved to the new cemetery. Today, you can still see some of these old tombstones and headstones along the memorial wall. These include the remains of David Collins, the first Lieutenant Governor of Tasmania. Taking a look at these headstones, you might notice that many are from young children. Sadly, children’s life expectancy in the new Tasman colony was very low, and many children didn’t survive into adolescence.
Walk back out to Salamanca Street and make your way to the Parliament House Gardens. On the west side of the park stands the grand Parliament House. Look up at the flag on top of the building to see the red lion for yourself we mentioned previously. In 1825 Tasmania became an independent British colony, and its administration was separate from that of New South Wales. It was here that the first Legislative Council was formed to advise the Lieutenant Governor of Van Diemen’s Land, who had sole governance of the colony. The gardens in front of Parliament House are a peaceful place to stop to rest your feet before continuing on the rest of the tour.
On the other side of the road stands the old Customs House. John Lee Archer was the architect who designed the Customs House in 1835. The Customs House was originally used as Tasmania’s primary Parliamentary building until the new Parliament was built in 1841. The beautiful classical revival facade has been preserved and is a great example of the styles of the time. The building is now used as a pub and hostel, so you can still go inside and take in the historic atmosphere.
Head North along Murray Street to Franklin Square. Franklin Square is one of the most impressive public squares in Hobart. The square is lined by oak trees on either side. The park was named after Arctic explorer Sir John Franklin. Sir John Franklin was also the Lieutenant-Governor of Van Diemen’s Land from 1837 to 1843.
In the center of the square stands a large fountain with a statue of Sir John Franklin on top. On one of the stone pedestal, you can see the words, “Not here! The white north has thy bones.” This is because Franklin was obsessed with exploring the artic and perished there instead of at home in Tasmania. In 1845 he set out with two huge vessels, the HMS Terror and HMS Erebus, to explore the Northwest Passage. The ships never returned home as they became icebound. He and all his crew perished at sea, but their death was a mystery for hundreds of years. It wasn’t until 2014 that the ships were discovered, and the mystery was finally put to rest along with Franklin and his crew.
On the east side of the park sits a beautiful sculpture called “Two Islands.” The sculpture portrays a sizeable wooden boat skeleton wrapped around a smaller metal canoe. This sculpture represents the history of the Tasmanian Indigenous people being swallowed up by the European settlers. The Two Islands sculpture also incorporates a soundscape comprised of many voices providing a dialogue revolving around reconciliation for the future.
Sitting just behind Franklin Square is the domineering castellated parapet tower of St. David’s Cathedral. In 1842 Hobart was declared an official city, and the existing smaller St David’s Church became St David’s Cathedral. Construction on the current cathedral began in 1868 but wasn’t complete until 1936. St. David’s Cathedral is designed in the Gothic Revival style by the English architect George Frederick Bodley.
Walking inside, one of the first things I was struck by was the impressive stained glass windows. These windows depict saints, knights, kings and other biblical characters. Despite the rather simple exterior, the interior is replete with neo-Gothic quatrefoil tracery windows, buttressed turrets, stone columns supporting pointed arches and an incredible wooden vaulted ceiling.
Depending on your interests I would choose one of the nearby galleries to spend some of the afternoon visiting. One of the best choices is the Maritime Museum of Tasmania. For as long as Tasmania has existed, its relation to the sea has been of the utmost importance. The indigenous people who lived here had strong connections with the sea as they not only used it to source their food but also to connect themselves to the surrounding islands. When the British arrived, they also had a focused on sailing, maritime trade, fishing and other maritime activities. The museum sets out to chart this history and display a variety of objects relating to Maritime Tasmanians.
The Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery is an institution that feels like an art gallery, natural history museum, and herbarium all combined into one. Their collection creates one singular place that preserves the natural and cultural heritage of Tasmania. The museum is the second oldest establishment in Tasmania, opening in 1843. Since there is such a variety of objects found here, it’s a great place to visit if you’re group has a multitude of interests.
Walk back towards the water along Brooke Street towards the Brooke Street Pier. The Brooke Street Pier is a floating pontoon made to expand the waterfront area of Sullivans Cove. Sullivans Cove, also known as Macquarie Wharf, historically served as the main port for the city of Hobart. Sullivans Cove was the place where Captain David Collins chose to establish a new colony in 1804. He christened the area “Hobart Town.” Sullivans Cove was the ideal place to set up a colony. Its proximity to the Derwent River provided access to inland transportation, and the deep, natural harbour was protected by Storm Bay. And best of all, the area has easy access from the Tasman Peninsula into the ocean.
The Brooke Street Pier’s pontoon was constructed in 2014 at the cost of 13 million Australian dollars! When it was completed, it was Australia’s largest floating building. From here, you can board a ferry over to the MONA (Museum of Old and New Arts) located on the coastline north of the city. But if you don’t plan on heading up there, the public space inside is almost home to a Tasmanian Market. Here you can buy local Tasmanian produce and gifts—everything from whiskey to seafood, woodcrafts and outerwear! A great place to do some shopping.
Walk along the waterfront adjacent, Franklin Wharf towards the next pier. The historic buildings along this street are stunning, one of which is the old Marine Board. Franklin Wharf is Hobart’s Waterfront where fishing and sailing boats dock, both now and in years past. It is also where you can find some of the best seafood restaurants and cafes at very reasonable prices!
Elizabeth Street is one of the major street that runs southeast to the northwest through the downtown and into the suburbs. But the famous street ends right here in the harbour. The Governor of New South Wales named Elizabeth Street after his wife, Elizabeth Macquarie. The original Elizabeth Street Pier was in built 1866, but this new concrete structure was built in 1933. Today, the covered pier serves as a space for restaurants, bars and event spaces.
When I first visited Hobart, I was a young student and was eager to find somewhere to eat great seafood at low prices. No trip to Hobart is complete without some fresh seafood, and even students deserve to try it out! Lucky for me, Fish Frenzy was recommended to me over and over again as the best place for cheap and delicious seafood. It makes me so happy to see they are still wildly popular. Fish Frenzy serves amazingly fresh fish and chips with seafood caught directly from local fishermen. They also serve incredible grilled seafood, chowder, and my personal favourite, Tasmanian scallops. And the best part is you can dine outdoors along the waterfront. Sitting here enjoying your catch of the day is the best way to take in the fantastic views of Hobart’s waterfront.
Located right outside Fish Frenzy is the historic Lady Nelson tall ship. To be fair, this is a replica of the historic ship that people still use regularly today! It sets sail from this dock and heads out along the Derwent River. The original HMS Lady Nelson was commissioned in 1799 to survey the coast of Australia. At the time, large parts of the Australian coast were unmapped, and Britain had claimed only part of the continent. This ship would be the first to seal all of Australia for the British. The ship’s crew were also the first to establish settlements on the River Derwent, at Port Dalrymple in Tasmania.
Constitution Dock has been used to harbour fleets in Hobart since its founding in 1804. It is still used today by fisherman who docks here to sell their catch of the day. Walking around this area and the adjacent Fisherman’s Dock, you’ll find that pretty much every single building is a fantastic seafood cafe or restaurant! There is no better place to come for seafood lovers!
A Hobart institution that I loved coming back to, night after night, was Mures. Jill & George Mure established Mures Fish House in 1973! Back then, it was located in Battery Point but to ensure the fish’s freshness, they moved the location right to the source on Fisherman’s Wharf. One of the most interesting things about Mures is that they have two different areas of the restaurant; the upper and lower deck. The Lower Deck is where you’ll find the quick-service restaurant serving up their famous fried fish and seafood paired with their world-class chips. But another seemingly strange addition to the lower deck is their cafe with 32 flavours of ice cream! Despite being primarily a seafood shop, their ice cream is AMAZING! You can either eat your plunder inside in their gorgeous mural-covered interior or outside where you can watch fishing boats come in and go out to sea.
The Upper Deck is their fine dining restaurant. Here you can experience the ultimate seafood experience in Hobart. This is a great place to try fresh Tasmanian pacific oysters! You can also sample Tasmanian octopus, Bass Strait squid, Tasmania rock lobster, and local spring bay mussels. Despite being a fine dining restaurant, the prices are shockingly affordable for the incredible quality and freshness you get!
So much of Hobart is home to random sculptures and art installations that seem to pop up out of nowhere. And the docks aren’t any different. You’ll find the ‘Heading South Sculpture‘ group along the water’s edge towards Hunter street. The first sculpture you see is called ‘The Bernacchi Tribute.‘ Louise Bernacchi was a scientist, photographer, and writer, and he is seen here with his trusty husky dog Joe, holding the flag. Bernacchi was the first Australian to spend and document a winter in Antarctica. In the sculpture, we catch Bernacchi taking a picture (or selfie as we know it today) of himself as he marks his accomplishment.
Behind Bernacchi, we find the bronze sculpture of a group of seals and penguins made by Stephen Walker. This scene is meant to memorialize English explorer James Clark Ross and his role in the 19th-century Antarctic expeditions. Ross sailed from Hobart to Antarctica in 1840. Later, in 1845, Ross set out with Sir John Franklin to help lead his expedition to discover the North-West Passage. Although we both know now how that ended for both explorers.
Continuing along Franklin Wharf, we arrive at Hunter street, along the Macquarie Wharf (this is my personal favourite part of Hobart’s waterfront!) Standing in front of you, with the names etched across the facade, are the words “IXL. Jams, H. Jones & Co, Ltd.” This old brick warehouse was once a large factory complex established by Henry Jones in 1891. Back then, the Wharf wasn’t connected to the mainland, and the area was named “Hunter Island,” now Hunter Street.
Henry Jones was the largest producer of jams and marmalades in Australia. He set out to use the local supply of incredible Tasmanian produce to make his beautiful preserves. Although the factory has since closed, today, the building serves as a gorgeously restored Art Hotel (highly recommended). And there is even a little cafe nearby called the Jam Packed Cafe that continues to the heritage of jam lovers in Tasmania.
The best place to end your day in Hobart is inside the Drunken Admiral! While this restaurant and bar might seem too touristy to be legit, don’t let the kitsch factor dissuade you. The restaurant is decorated to look like you are drinking inside a haul of a pirate ship. Ropes hang from the walls, and the ceiling even appears to be made of the ribbing of a giant ship. The are nautically themed objects all over the place, covering almost every inch of the surface. Some of them are antiques, others are new creations, but it’s almost impossible to tell which ones are which.
Their beer and wine lists are staggering, so it’s a wonderful place to come to sample locally-made spirits of all sorts. But it’s the friendly environment inside this place that makes it so special and the best place to wile the night away.
Hobart is genuinely one of the most sensational cities and a must-see if you are travelling to Tasmania. Whether you come for the food, the beautiful vistas or the historic architecture, you’ll be absolutely transported by this fantastic city!
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