When I was planning my trip to Seville, just about every blog, TikTok, and travel guide pointed me toward the Royal Alcázar as the must-see palace. And while it absolutely lives up to the hype, what caught me off guard, in the best way, were the smaller, lesser-known royal residences tucked around the city. And Casa de Pilatos completely stole the show for me!
Unlike the busy Alcázar, the Casa de Pilatos felt like a hidden secret. When we visited, we often had entire patios and chapels to ourselves, wandering through Mudéjar tilework, Renaissance sculptures, and shadowy Gothic chapels in near silence. It’s one of those rare places where every courtyard and corridor feels alive with stories, and the more you explore, the more it feels like you’ve stepped into one yourself. Join me on this immersive, self-guided tour and discover all that this Andalusian masterpiece has in store!
From the minute I stepped inside this palace, I was captivated by how Casa de Pilatos tells its own story through stone, tile, and light. In 1483, amid the Spanish Inquisition’s crackdown on secret practitioners of Judaism and Islam, a wealthy “Pedro the Executor” was condemned and his prime urban properties seized. Those plots were highly valued, largely because they tapped into the coveted Caños de Carmona aqueduct. At such a large sum, only one of the city’s richest families could afford it, and they were eventually sold off to Don Pedro Enríquez, Andalusia’s chief governor.
With its horseshoe arches and intricate plasterwork, that original courtyard pulsed with both Christian and Islamic artistry. Don Pedro and his wife, Doña Catalina de Ribera, soon transformed the site into a Mudejar-style palace centered on a cool, tiled courtyard. Mudéjar art is characterized by elaborate geometric patterns, colorful glazed tilework, and finely carved wood and plaster, it reflects the craftsmanship of Muslim artisans working in Christian-ruled Spain between the 13th and 16th centuries.
After Catalina’s death in 1505, their son, Don Fadrique Enríquez de Ribera, began layering in Italian Renaissance touches. He added graceful Corinthian columns, broad classical porticoes, and coffered domes he’d glimpsed in Italy and on his pilgrimage to Jerusalem, along with signature spaces like the Hall of Pretorio and the Golden Room.
Three decades later, his nephew Per Afán de Ribera enlisted Neapolitan architect Benvenuto Tortello to add even more Renaissance flourishes. The Duke of Alcalá, inspired by his travels in Naples, installed a grotto which he tucked into the gardens and brought with him a trove of classical sculptures to sprinkle through the galleries. Today, the Casa de Pilatos is one of the best examples of a two-level “doble casa” design: cool, tile-lined summer apartments on the ground floor framed by Mudéjar accents, and a cozier, tapestry-adorned winter residence above, all connected by grand staircases.
By the 17th century, Casa de Pilatos had become Seville’s own Renaissance salon, a place where poets, painters, and philosophers gathered beneath sun-drenched courtyards and even where Francisco Pacheco, Velázquez’s mentor, painted sumptuous ceilings. Then, during the 19th-century Romantic revival, the Dukes of Medinaceli (especially the Duchess of Denia) lovingly restored its interiors, weaving dreamy, picturesque details back into the palace.
Once inside the palace, your first stop is the Small Garden, reached by passing through the Zaquizamí Corridor. The name “Zaquizamí” comes from the Arabic sáqf fassamí, meaning “fragile roof” or “roof in the sky.” As you walk along this passageway, you’ll notice three beautifully crafted Renaissance iron grilles, as well as fragments of ancient Roman plasterwork embedded into the walls like a mosaic of antiquity.
This intimate corner of Casa de Pilatos, called the Jardín Chico (Small Garden), was one of the final additions made by Don Fadrique, the first Marquess of Tarifa, in 1539. Unlike the larger, more public Jardín Grande, this secluded space was designed purely for his private retreat, blending Renaissance ideals of nature and architecture in perfect harmony. Between 1910 and 1920, the garden was expanded to its current footprint by demolishing modest ancillary structures. It now showcases several Roman sculptures from the first Duke of Alcalá’s collection, alongside later additions.
Water flows gently through fountains and channels, symbolizing life and purity while adding a soothing soundtrack to your stroll. In a city where water was once scarce and fiercely controlled, the very presence of these lush spaces spoke volumes about the status and privilege of their owners. Casa de Pilatos was among the few private residences in Seville granted access to “standing water”, a direct supply from the ancient Roman Caños de Carmona aqueduct. Originally reserved for the Alcázar gardens and public fountains, this Crown-controlled resource was rarely extended to individuals. By the late 15th century, only about twenty estates in the city held this privilege, making private gardens a mark of distinction. The remains of the aqueduct can still be seen nearby, a quiet reminder of this once-coveted luxury.
At the garden’s heart lies a star-shaped tiled pond, an early 20th-century Neo-Mudéjar installation, whose fountain is topped by Mariano Benlliure’s 1900 bronze of a youthful Bacchus. Nearby, a Renaissance‐style Eros holding a bird offers a playful nod to classical antiquity.
Even in the heat of the August sun, this garden explodes with colour! I couldn’t believe the kind of plants and flowers that could survive in this heat, but visiting this palace in the Spring when all the roses are blooming would be magical.
At the far end of the garden, a discreet doorway leads into the Golden Room. The moment you step inside, it’s clear how the space earned its name, the brilliant yellow walls wrap around you like a warm, golden cocoon. The Golden Room, with its richly gilded wooden ceiling, was one of the Marquess’s final projects before his death.
The room also houses significant Roman relics from the collection of the first Duke of Alcalá, including two impressive reliefs commemorating Augustus’s victory at Actium.
Just outside the Golden Room, a Renaissance weapons trophy pays homage to Roman military imagery, modeled after scenes from Trajan’s Column. According to legend, the III Duke of Alcalá once brought Emperor Trajan’s ashes back from Rome in an alabaster urn. But in a strange twist, a maid accidentally spilled them into the garden. As the story goes, the emperor now rests among the orange trees of Casa de Pilatos.
Named the Praetor’s Room to evoke the biblical palace of Pontius Pilate in Jerusalem, this impressive 132-square-meter rectangular hall occupies the east wing, aside the main courtyard. Constructed between 1526 and 1539 during Don Fadrique Enríquez de Ribera’s sweeping renovations, it helped complete the courtyard’s symmetrical, four-sided enclosure. Don Fadrique spared no expense to make this one of the palace’s most lavish rooms.
The room’s decorative richness is remarkable. Along the lower walls, bold tilework produced using the innovative cuenca (basin) technique creates a striking skirting. The spaces between the tilework and ceiling are filled with delicate stucco reliefs, blending Arabic inscriptions, vegetal motifs (atauriques), and miniature architectural forms. Two mullioned windows flank the entrance, flooding the room with light and highlighting the blend of Islamic and Renaissance influences that define Casa de Pilatos.
It is the only space that preserves all of its original features, including exquisite Mudéjar-style doors and windows crafted in exquisite mudéjar taracea carpentry. Taracea is a traditional Spanish form of inlay, crafted from small pieces of differently colored woods and other fine materials, carefully arranged to form elaborate geometric patterns. The craftsmanship is especially evident in the massive five-meter doors that once sealed the hall and the ante-chapel. These monumental gates feature identical ornamentation on both sides, with the Our Father inscribed on the interior and the Creed on the exterior, rendered in Gothic cursive.
Equally impressive is the coffered ceiling, also by Andrés de Juara, composed of five rows of square panels inspired by Classical Antiquity. This design echoes the architectural logic of the Pantheon’s dome in Rome, a model Don Fadrique likely encountered during his pilgrimage through Italy. Yet, despite its classical structure, the ceiling is adorned with distinctly mudéjar elements: interwoven lacería patterns and mocárabes (stalactite-style prisms), revealing a deep connection to local craftsmanship and a continued admiration for the ornamental splendour of the Alcázar.
Central to the ceiling’s composition are eight heraldic shields, proudly aligned along the main axis. These emblems celebrate the Enríquez de Ribera family’s noble heritage and their powerful marital ties to some of Castile’s most prestigious lineages, including the Mendoza, Quiñones, Figueroa, Portocarrero, and Toledo families, testaments to their rising social and political stature in Renaissance Spain.
The original design of the main courtyard at Casa de Pilatos, commissioned by Pedro Enríquez and his wife Catalina de Ribera, followed a U-shaped layout with distinct Mudéjar elements. In 1526, their son Don Fadrique Enríquez de Ribera initiated major renovations that reshaped this central space, around which both floors of the palace are organized. He added the corridor and gallery beside the Praetor’s Room, supported by marble Corinthian columns with “claw” bases and “ponytail” capitals, which were in vogue at the time.
Despite the diversity of styles, the patio achieves a remarkable harmony. It reflects the eclectic nature of early 16th-century Sevillian architecture, blending Mudéjar, Gothic, and Renaissance elements. The stucco arches and tiled baseboards draw from Islamic traditions, while the asymmetrical arches and geometric upper balustrade nod to Gothic and Mudéjar craftsmanship. The proportions of the courtyard itself, along with the imported Genoese columns and fountain, firmly anchor it in the Renaissance.
The fountain in the main patio is a statement piece of Renaissance elegance set against a Mudéjar backdrop. Carved in 1529 by the Genoese workshop of Aprile da Carona, it’s sculpted from polished Carrara marble and rises more than four meters high. Its design consists of two basins, the lower, square-within-a-circle “cup,” and above it a circular “sea”, linked by a central pedestal supported on four downward-gazing dolphins. Atop this rises a striking bust of Janus, the two-faced Roman god of transitions, whose dual profiles symbolize the passage between past and future.
In the northwest corner of the main courtyard, your eye will quickly be drawn to the Medici-style statue of Athena, the crown jewel of Per Afán de Ribera’s sculpture collection. This impressive figure is a 2nd-century Roman copy of a Greek original, thought to date back to around 435 BC. The term “Medici” refers to statues that mirror the pose of the colossal nine-meter bronze Athena created by the legendary sculptor Phidias for the Acropolis, which was sadly lost when it was destroyed in Constantinople in 1203. What makes this version at Casa de Pilatos truly extraordinary is that it’s the only known Medici-type Athena that still retains its original Roman head.
Behind the statue of Athean, you can enter the Salón de Descanso de los Jueces (Judges’ Resting Room). Many of the rooms in Casa de Pilatos are named in reference to the Passion of Christ, a tradition that emerged after the Marquis of Tarifa’s pilgrimage to Jerusalem and his creation of a dramatic Vía Crucis (Way of the Cross) within the palace grounds. This theatrical devotion influenced not only the route itself but the naming of the rooms, such as the Judges’ Resting Room, which takes its name from a biblical reference to the 71 members of the Sanhedrin of Israel who judged Christ before the Passion.
Despite its symbolic name, the space originally served as the palace’s antechapel, leading into the nearby oratory through a segmental arch. This arch is one of Casa de Pilatos’ most refined examples of stucco craftsmanship, delicately blending Mudéjar and Isabelline Gothic designs and crowned with a frieze of eleven lobed lattice windows.
Peaking through the open door, you can take a glimpse inside the Flagellation Chapel. The Flagellation Chapel is the only space in Casa de Pilatos built in the Gothic style, even though it dates from the same period as the rest of the palace. Gothic architecture, with its pointed arches and ribbed vaults, was strongly associated with Christian worship, making it ideal for designating sacred spaces within otherwise secular residences. In the chapel, the ribs of the twin vaults rest on carved brackets featuring angelic figures, while a pointed arch window on the western wall reveals that the space once opened to the outside, before being enclosed by later additions.
Inside, a rose-jasper column at the center recalls the pillar to which Christ was bound during his flagellation, hence the chapel’s name. Over the altar sits a fourth-century white-marble Good Shepherd statue, a paleochristian adaptation of Hermes.
The chapel preserves examples of the earlier and more labor-intensive cuerda seca (dry rope) method of tiel work, introduced by Muslim artisans in the 13th century and perfected by Mudejars in the 15th. This technique involved outlining designs with waxy lines that separated vibrant glazes, creating brilliant contrasts in colours like blue, green, white, and amber.
The entrance to the chapel still preserves its original polychrome wooden doors from the late 15th century, adorned with the coats of arms of the Enríquez and Sotomayor families.
Exiting from the northern end of the Resting Room, you enter the Pilates Cabinet. This ceremonial room was modelled after the traditional qubba structures introduced to the Iberian Peninsula. The qubba, a hallmark of Islamic architecture, is defined by its square base that forms a cube-like volume, typically topped with domes, vaults, or coffered ceilings that symbolically evoke the heavens. Positioned with direct access to the main courtyard, its richly layered decoration reflects this room’s ceremonial role, featuring vibrant cuenca-style tiles that climb the walls.
The most impressive part of this room is its ceiling. This stunning, staggered ornamental ceiling, inspired by Mudejar design, was crafted and installed before the death of Catalina de Ribera in 1505. Square in shape and golden in hue, the delicate wooden coffered ceiling evokes the structure of a celestial dome. At its center lies a carved grotesque, encircled by dozens of ten-pointed stars. The larger stars rest on pineapple-shaped muqarnas clusters, a striking decorative element, while the smaller stars are rendered in subtle bas-relief, creating a rich visual contrast across the surface.
In the room adjacent to the Pilates Cabinet, you’ll find a smaller chamber housing a reproduction of The Bearded Woman, a striking masterpiece by the Valencian Baroque painter José de Ribera. Ribera, like Caravaggio, is known for his dramatic use of chiaroscuro. The original work, part of the Fundación Casa Ducal de Medinaceli collection, is currently on loan to the Prado Museum in Madrid.
This powerful and unconventional Baroque portrait challenges traditional ideas of gender, beauty, and motherhood. Painted in 1631, it depicts Magdalena Ventura, a woman with a rare hormonal condition that caused excessive facial hair growth, shown confidently breastfeeding her infant. Ribera presents her with dignity and strength, emphasizing her direct gaze and monumental presence, as if she were a classical matriarch or a saint. A carved inscription beside her explains her condition, treating her as a marvel of nature rather than a figure of ridicule.
From the back of this room, you can exit out into the pièce de résistance of the Casa de Pilatos; the Large Garden. Formerly an orchard, this space was reimagined in the late 1500s as an elegant archaeological garden. In Renaissance Seville, gardens were far more than greenery; they were living museums. The first Duke of Alcalá, who, after serving as Viceroy of Naples, returned with a collector’s eye and a passion for classical sculpture. Inspired by Italian villa gardens, he tasked engineer Benvenuto Tortello with transforming the old orchard into an “archaeological” landscape.
Inspired by Bramante’s Cortile delle Statue in Rome, Tortello added an L-shaped gallery of Roman-style loggias, semi-open arcades supported by columns and blind arches, with niches and recessed circular cavities crafted to display the Duke of Alcalá’s Neapolitan sculpture collection. Turning each niche into a carefully composed art display.
This “archaeological garden” approach integrated art directly into the architecture, earning high praise among Seville’s cultural elite and influencing local taste for decades. In the garden’s western corner, Tortello added a Mannerist grotto featuring a pebbled portal that shelters a 16th-century marble Sleeping Venus. Scholars believe that when the grotto was reimagined, its designers drew inspiration from the famous Sleeping Nymph (often called “Cleopatra”) in the Vatican’s Belvedere. That Hellenistic masterpiece had set a Renaissance trend for fountains graced by slumbering figures, and Casa de Pilatos’s nymph faithfully follows that elegant tradition.
At the heart of the garden stands an octagonal Renaissance marble fountain, crafted by the Aprile workshop. Its elegant shape is adorned with ceramic tiling and evokes the aesthetic of Mudejar-inspired grotto design.
Enter the main courtyard again and make your way into the Hall of Columns, a long, rectangular gallery that, true to its name, was originally conceived as an exhibition space for classical architectural fragments, primarily ancient marble columns. These were part of the collection of the Dukes of Alcalá. Its simple, unadorned walls and high, flat ceiling provide a calm, almost contemplative backdrop, allowing the eye to focus on the rhythm and craftsmanship of each pillar.
Return to the patio courtyard and take a minute to study the tiles that cover every inch of the walls. Casa de Pilatos holds one of Spain’s most impressive collections of azulejos, with over 150 unique tile patterns created by master artisans Diego and Juan Pulido. These tiles adorn the walls of the palace’s main courtyard, ground-floor reception rooms, and monumental staircase, covering more than 1,200 square meters. The tiled zócalos (skirtings) are a vibrant blend of Islamic, geometric, and nature-inspired designs.
Most of the tiles were produced using the cuenca or basin technique, a 16th-century innovation that used moulds to imprint decorative outlines onto soft clay, making large-scale production possible. Each tile measures 13 by 13 centimetres, and historical records show that in 1538, the first Marquess of Tarifa commissioned Juan Pulido to deliver 2,000 tiles weekly, with steep penalties for delays.
This evolving tilework is especially striking along the palace’s grand staircase, the first monumental staircase in Seville. Designed in the 1530s as a symbol of Renaissance grandeur, it replaced a modest medieval spiral stair and became a dramatic transition between the public courtyard and the noble upper chambers. Lavishly decorated with tiles and crowned by an intricate dome reminiscent of the Hall of Ambassadors in the Alcázar, the staircase exemplifies the palace’s embrace of both Mudejar ornamentation and Renaissance ceremony.
The dome itself, an architectural rarity. It begins with a radiant twelve-pointed star at its center. From there, an intricate web of golden geometric patterns radiates outward. The dome rests on a base adorned with heraldic symbols and elegant, golden mocarabes, which are stalactite-like carvings. An octagonal crown frames the family coats of arms of the Marquess’s ancestors.
The staircase leads to the upper floors of the Winter Palace. This area requires a special admission price and I think it’s missable in favour of spending more time in the rest of the palace. Much of the residential section was lost during 19th and 20th-century renovations, and therefore, much of what you see upstairs is reproductions.
The final two areas to explore within the palace lie on the western side, just beyond a wrought iron gate installed in 1861. This gate closes off the archway leading into the main patio, and at its center, you’ll notice the finely crafted coat of arms of the House of Enríquez, seamlessly woven into the design.
The mounting block is a traditional Andalusian palace feature. Paved with stone and shaded by surrounding walls, the owners and their guests would dismount their carriages before making their formal entrance. The carriages waited nearby under the watchful gaze of stone guardians and decorative reliefs.
Although more modest than the residential and ceremonial areas, the stables were built with durability and practicality in mind, reflecting the importance of equestrian culture in noble households. The design is functional but still echoes the architectural elegance of the rest of the palace, with traditional Andalusian touches such as vaulted ceilings and robust columns.
Casa de Pilatos is more than just a palace, it’s a living museum, a peaceful sanctuary, and a stunning example of architectural harmony. As you wander through its sunlit courtyards, admire the gilded ceilings, and run your hand along centuries-old tiles, you don’t just learn about Seville’s rich past, you feel it. I hope this self-guided tour brought the space to life for you and inspires you to slow down, look closely, and truly soak in this incredible hidden gem of Sevilla.
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